April 2014
For your beauty and spa business
Think pink We speak to Orly founder Jeff Pink
GCC
Precious oils The latest in spa skincare
straight straighttalk Boost your business
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Published by and (C) 2014 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC. Registered at Dubai Media City. 321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC Editor: Fiona Vlemmiks fiona@professionalbeauty.ae Contributors: Shirin Abdulrazak, Suzanne Braithwaite, Sally Hewerdine, Helen Marchant, Eve Oxberry Advertising: display@professionalbeauty.ae classified@professionalbeauty.ae t: +971 (0)50 359 1157 Circulation & subscriptions enquiries: register@professionalbeauty.ae t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Communications Manager: Ramona Feraru ramona@professionalbeauty.ae General Manager: Andrew Green andy@professionalbeauty.ae Publisher: Mark Moloney Design and production: ICD, www.icd.gb.com Printing: Masar Print & Publications LLC - PO Box 485100, Dubai www.masarprint.com Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck www.bluetruck.ae The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.
18 in this issue... Regulars 7
14 facebook/PBGCC @PBGCC
News The latest issues impacting our industry including spa and salon launches and openings throughout the GCC Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and nail salons
24 Ask the experts The low-down on how to create brand awareness of your salon, working with teenage clients and much more
Features 37 Nail bites Our new dedicated nail news section
18
58 Treatment news The emphasis is on luxury this issue with tried and tested royal hammam and diamond facial experiences
35 A Walk on the wild side Leopard-inspired nail art from Artistic Nail Design
61
71
New products We focus on eye products alongside the newest offerings to hit the market Calendar The essential dates for your business diary, from trade shows to conferences and training
Going for golden How spray tanning could grow your business
42 Face value Lydia Espin on why opening her first salon was worth the wait 45 Shirin speaks Our new columnist Shirin Abdulrazak looks at how to prevent staff poaching 47 The French Connection We catch up with the woman behind Sofitel’s So Spa 51
The Big Freeze Cryotherapy uncovered
54 Crowing glory We predict the biggest hair trends this season 66 Reading needs Our guide to excellent customer service 68 Money matters Helen Merchant helps us get to grips with finance Cover Image: Courtesy of Maria Dowling
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welcome
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W
e’ve been overwhelmed by the industry backing for our first issue. It confirms that you understand and support our raison d’être; to educate, expand and create greater cohesion in the GCC beauty and spa industry.
One area that I believe still has untapped potential is the self-tanning sector. We may
enjoy guaranteed sunshine, but our clients are increasingly educated on the damaging effects of the sun and spray tans offer a quick, attractive and skin-healthy solution. With a good mark-up, little downtime and the potential for repeat bookings, spray tanning could be an extremely viable option for your business. Turn to page 18 to learn more. This month we’re pleased to unveil Nail bites, a new section dedicated to all things nail related.We have also broadened our content to include hair news and features. In this issue we showcase the latest industry trends and report on innovative hair-smoothing treatments. Operating in a saturated market means spa managers must be ahead of the game. Yet, through lack of financial experience, some are unable to interpret financial data effectively – missing business opportunities and overlooking threats. Spa consultant Helen Merchant explains the importance of getting to grips with finance on page 68. President of the French spa association SpaA, Aldina Duarte Ramos is a tour de force. I caught up with her during a recent visit to Dubai, where she provided enlightenment on the philosophy behind the Sofitel So Spa rebrand and its maverick spa menu. Be inspired by her words on page 47. I hope you enjoy this issue as much as the last. Fiona Vlemmiks – EDITOR
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51
On the cover 32 Think Pink The hottest nail trends set to hit the market for spring and summer 39 Precious oil Take a more targeted approach to body skincare 57 Straight talk Hair-smoothing treatments explained
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32 Professional Beauty GCC April 2014
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NEWS
All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa
Sisters Beauty Lounge targets roll-out via hotels following St. Regis deal
S
isters Beauty Lounge has outlined plans to open a series of beauty salons within fivestar hotels in the UAE region, following the announcement of a luxurious new facility at The St. Regis Abu Dhabi, the five-star luxury hotel located in the iconic Nation Towers. This is the company’s second branch in the UAE Capital, and will bring the total number of Sisters branches to six in the country, plus one franchise outlet in Astana, Kazakhstan. Sara Abdulrazak, managing director of Sisters Beauty Lounge, said: “We are very honoured to be associated with such a reputable brand as The
St. Regis, Abu Dhabi. We feel that our decade of work has definitely paid off to be chosen to operate within a hotel of this calibre.” Sisters is offering its signature services at its new branch, with the exception of facials and body treatments, which will be provided by the hotel’s dedicated spa. “We want to highlight our international hair team – experts we recruited from Australia, England, Syria, Russia and Morocco – including a master stylist from Italy. “Since the location is in a five-star hotel, we now have a mix of male and female hairdressers. We will have a
dedicated bar for lash extensions and bespoke brows. We will also specialise in bridal beauty as the hotel offers a ballroom for weddings and a bridal suite for treatments,” continued Abdulrazak. Commenting on the Sisters’ expansion strategy, Abdulrazak said the company hopes to open more branches in other five-star establishments, particularly within the Starwood group, operator of The St. Regis Hotel chain. “Most hotels prefer to focus on their signature spas and they need an established beauty salon partner like Sisters who are experts in salon services. We intend to fill that gap with many more branches in hotels in the near future.”
Vampire facial “banned” in Dubai An extreme anti-ageing facial that involves extracting then reinjecting blood into a client’s face has been temporarily banned by the Dubai Health Authority (DHA). The platelet rich plasma (PRP) procedure, commonly known as the vampire facial, has been banned across the city until regulations can be put in place. The procedure involves collecting blood from the client into small tubes,
which are then placed in a centrifuge to separate the red blood cells from the plasma. The plasma is then collected and either injected into the patient’s face, or applied to the skin via a dermal rollering technique to help promote tissue healing and cell regeneration. It has been popularised in recent months by celebrity fans including reality star Kim Kardashian. The Dubai Health Authority has ruled that because the treatment is relatively new, it should be stopped while regulations are finalised, according to Gulf News
A therapist in the USA was arrested in February after a client died following a botched vampire facial in her California beauty salon.
AND Trading’s opens new branch in Doha Qatar’s largest beauty company AND has announced the opening of the latest branch of its Jean Louis-David salon brand. Located on the ground floor of the Crowne Plaza Hotel – The Business Park, the 80sqm facility offers a full range of beauty products and services as part of the company’s growth and expansion plans across Doha. It is the third branch of the Jean LouisDavid brand, which offers services that include hair, beauty and nails. The new Business Park is a prime location that is adjacent to Doha International Airport.
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Deyaar Developments kicks off major spa development plans with Dubai launch
R
eal estate company Deyaar Development has outlined plans to develop hospitality facilities featuring spas across one million square feet of land in the UAE. The company, which is known across the region for its residential and business developments, will make its first move into the hospitality sector with the launch of The Atria, a luxury project in the Business Bay district of Dubai, featuring 350 serviced apartments and 219 residential units, and equipped with spa facilities. The five-star spa will afford views across the Bay region and will feature a health club, an infinity swimming pool, and a full-service sauna and gym facilities. three swimming pools and a luxury restaurant.
The Atria will span 1.25million sq ft, making it the developer’s largest project in the Business Bay area. With construction scheduled to begin this month, Deyaar aims to complete the development during the first half of 2017. Deyaar said the move to develop serviced apartments with spas was spurred by an 80 per cent increase in apartment occupancy rates in Dubai in 2013. Deyaar chief executive Saeed Al Qatami said: “The Atria offers an allrounded living experience in an area that has transformed into a prime residential district within a short span of time. The bay and beautiful vistas of some of Dubai’s best attractions make it even more desirable as a holiday home or a short-term residential option.”
Nail Spa unveils new brand identity UAE-based salon chain The Nail Spa has been relaunched with new treatments, products and a whole new brand identity. Since launching in 2002, The Nail Spa has undergone a steady and successful transformation to become a full service brand, with extensive treatment options ranging from classic nail care and waxing, through to threading and eyebrow tinting, facials and body massages. Commenting on the new brand identity, Shabana Karim, founder and managing director of The Nail Spa, said: “Since opening our first location in Dubai in 2002 we’ve witnessed immense demand across the Emirates. “Our brand refresh is part of our evolution and has allowed us to create a new visual representation of the brand and is aligned to the values we hold as a company today.”
The refreshed look is currently being rolled out across the brand’s portfolio. It’s latest in Emirates Hills, The Lakes offers the full range of treatments from the new, luxurious menu including the DDG Instant Glow, a ‘facial in a flash’ from celebrity skin expert, Dr Dennis Gross. Other treatments include the Hot ‘N’ Cold Hydrotherapy, Minty Chocolate Sole Scrub, and Lavender Heel Peel. The Nail Spa currently employs more than 300 therapists across nine venues in the UAE. It was recently ranked number 35 of Dubai’s 100 top performing Small to Medium Enterprises (SMEs) by Dubai SME, under the patronage of His Highness Sheikh Hamdan Bin Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Crown Prince of Dubai and chairman of Dubai Executive Council.
JA Resorts & Hotels, brings first global Speedflex centre to Dubai Following its successful launch in the UK last year, Speedflex, a circuit-based training concept, has announced its expansion into Dubai. With an opening scheduled by the end of spring, the UAE-based hospitality firm, JA Resorts & Hotels, has confirmed they will be bringing the first global Speedflex centre to Dubai. “JA Resorts & Hotels is renowned for pushing the boundaries of innovation and offering our guests new and inventive solutions in hospitality, entertainment, dining and leisure,” said David Thomson, chief operating officer of JA Resorts & Hotels. “We have recently signed an agreement with Speedflex to open their very first UAE centre in JA Ocean View Hotel in Q2 this year. We are proud to be associated with the Speedflex brand, which is backed by former England striker Alan Shearer and promises a tailored, high-intensity workout with reduced muscle soreness and rapid results”. Tapping into the growing trend of group exercise, Speedflex offers 45-minute circuit-based sessions led by an experienced personal trainer, and combines a low-impact, high-intensity, cardiovascular and resistance workout for optimum calorie burn. Each circuit features seven Speedflex machines, which automatically respond to and create resistance levels based on the individual’s force, enabling users of all ages and abilities to workout together, at their own pace, whilst exercising multiple muscle groups simultaneously. Speedflex training offers a wide range of benefits including accelerated fat loss, improved muscle tone, strength and bone density and enhanced power and speed.
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Goco Hospitality launches spa brand in UAE Spa developer Goco Hospitality has announced the launch of its own spa brand, Goco Spa. The first site under the new brand umbrella is the Goco Spa at Ajman Saray in the UAE, which opened on March 1. The Bangkok-based company has consulted on and created spas for high-end clients around the world, with past projects including The Spa at Frankfurter Hof in Germany, The Spa at The Grand Ho Tram in Vietnam and wellness facilities for Paramount Hotels & Resorts around the world. However, the launch of Goco Spa represents the company’s debut as a spa operator. Goco founder and chief executive Ingo Schweder said: “We saw that there was a niche for a new spa brand with international best practices, contemporary design and a management team with wellness knowhow.” A second spa under the new brand, the Goco Spa at JW Marriott Resort & Spa, will open in Venice at the end of this year. Schweder revealed that the company is currently also “working on projects in Spain, the Czech Republic, China, India and Indonesia”. Schweder said that the vision of Goco Spa “is to transform the typical hotel spa from a by-product to the soul of the hotel; increasing the overall financial performance across the property”.
The Sofitel So Spa relaxation area at The Palm, Dubai
Sofitel to open Downtown Dubai branch
T
he Sofitel Dubai Downtown will open its doors on May 1 and the hotel’s So Spa is set to open shortly afterwards. This hotel, which will be near the Burj Khalifa, will comprise 350 rooms and 76 suites. In the bathrooms, guests will enjoy beauty products from Lanvin, Hermès and other French brands. The wellness provision will include an infinity pool, So Spa, and So Fit gym
facilities. Director of development of wellness activities Aldina Duarte Ramos told Professional Beauty that the spa will be tailored to meet the needs of business clientele, with more express treatments on offer than in the chain’s venue on the Palm. The Sofitel Dubai Downtown is the seventh hotel in the Sofitel network in the Middle East. Accor plans to open two additional Sofitel hotels in Jeddah and Riyadh in the near future.
Hotel and day spas discount, while destination spas use e-marketing to boost footfall The methods used to attract and retain clients vary considerably between day, hotel and destination spas, according to new research. While 64 per cent of day and 39 per cent of hotel spa managers consider promotional activities such as discounting integral to increasing the frequency of guest visits, only 13 per cent of destination spa managers feel the same. Instead, 33 per cent of destination spa managers prioritise customer service in encouraging clients to return, with 27 per cent focusing on loyalty schemes. The research, carried out by students on the International Spa Management course at the University of Derby, UK, surveyed best practice among spa managers globally. When it comes to attracting new customers, the day and hotel spa managers again cited promotional activities, such as special offers, reduced prices for multiple purchases, added value promotions and discounts, as their
preferred tools. However, the method of choice for destination spa managers is online marketing, with 31% naming this as their most successful method. The research, which was carried out on behalf of and presented at the Professional Spa & Wellness Convention in London on February 24, also revealed differences in the approach to increasing retail sales. While 30 per cent of day spa mangers said they use partnerships with well-established product houses to drive sales, the most popular strategy for destination spa managers is staff training and developing product knowledge. For hotel spa managers, promotional activities were again the method of choice, with 25 per cent using these to boost retail sales. Some 97 per cent of spa managers, across all three segments, use social media to promote their businesses, with Facebook being the most popular platform across the board, followed by Twitter, TripAdvisor then YouTube.
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Technology crucial to the future of hotel spas
E
mbracing technology and putting an independent benchmarking system in place are critical factors for the future of the hotel spa sector, according to findings from the Global Spa & Wellness Summit (GSWS). Delegates at the Global Hotel Spa Forum at the 2013 GSWS in Delhi, India, emphasised the importance of technology in enhancing the spa experience, building stronger customer relationships and improving profitability. A recently released report from the forum also reveals that delegates highlighted the implementation of an international benchmarking system to assess financial performance as critical to the future growth and property of the hotel spa segment. The need for an industry-wide hotel spa study, to more accurately assess clients’
preferences and requirements and become better placed to meet the growing need for personalisation, was also underlined. Delegates at the forum additionally expressed the view that hotel spas have to a degree lost their lustre and no longer lead the spa market in the way they did a decade ago. It was agreed that hotel spas need to innovate, adapt and widen their customer-base in order to regain their market leading position. Panellists at the forum included Kathryn Moore, director of operations at Mspa International, Jeremy McCarthy, director of global spa development and operations at Starwood Hotels & Resorts, and Mia Kyricos, chief brand officer at Spafinder Wellness. Additional input for the report was gathered from the more than 100 global hotel spa professionals present at the summit.
Successful 25th anniversary show for Professional Beauty The 25th Professional Beauty trade show at London’s ExCeL exhibition centre, held on February 23-24, attracted more than 33,000* visitors and 600 brands from around the world over two days. Among the brands that exhibited at the show, which included spa, skincare, nails, equipment, aesthetics and tanning areas, were Elemis, Clarins, Decléor, Caci, Dermalogica, Heaven, Aromatherapy Associates, Gharieni, OPI, Mii, Jessica and Thalgo. The show also incorporated an extensive education element, comprising a series of conventions, seminars and workshops.
These included the Professional Spa & Wellness Convention, the International Manufacturers and Distributors Forum (IMF) and a calendar of seminar programmes comprising business skills, advanced treatments, nutrition and wellness and “how to” workshops. The International Nail Championships and the Warpaint make-up competition crowned winners in a range of categories that included Spa Manicure, Showcase Nail Art and Salon Nail for the former and Real Beauty, Fashion and Special FX for the latter. *Awaiting ABC audit
Delegates at the 2013 Global Spa & Wellness Summit, at which the Global Hotel Spa Forum was held
Hotel spas currently represent 16 per cent or 14,000, of the 87,000 spas in operation around the world. However, they account for a significantly higher percentage, 27 per cent, of global spa industry revenue.
JA launches five-star Seychelles resort Jebel Ali Resorts & Hotels, the team behind the five-star Palm Tree Court Hotel & Spa, and the Jebel Ali Golf Resort in Dubai, has expanded into luxury African territory. The UAE-headquartered hospitality company has opened its first international managed property, with the launch of the five-star Enchanted Island Resort in the Seychelles. The resort is set on the private Round Island in the Seychelles, within a designated National Marine Park but also close to the major Seychelles island of Mahe. An exotic menu of treatments and therapies are on offer at the resort’s Serena Spa. Occupying an elevated position overlooking the clear blue waters of the Indian Ocean, the dedicated spa features an “Adam & Eve” couples suite, plus two further individual treatment pavilions with their own private steam room, shower and terrace. The spa also offers yoga sessions, a gym, and a number of other holistic therapies. “The Seychelles has long been a preferred destination for world travellers seeking a true island paradise experience. The Enchanted Island Resort offers just that, with a handful of limited edition villas and a unique location that fulfils the luxury five-star brief, but which is sympathetic to the environment and to the stunning natural beauty of the island,” said David Thomson, chief operating officer of JA Resorts & Hotels. “As our first property outside of the UAE, it makes for an impressive addition to our expanding portfolio of upscale resorts and hotels,” he added.
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Shop Online: www.najafi.ae Secret of Beauty Skin
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Saloon supply Address : Plot No.365326 Al Qouz IND 2, Dubai, UAE. Email: info@najafi.ae Tel : +971-4-3416783 Fax : +971-4-3416785 P.O.Box: 39025, Dubai, Najafi Cosmetics
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Distributor For Professional Saloon products. Supply Body and Skin Care products. Hair care Products.
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business trends
professionalbeauty.ae
14 The month in numbers
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
78
%
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2014 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2013?
60 1 39
% BETTER
% SAME
Insider beauty, hair and nails
Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons, spas and nail salons in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know
%WORSE
JANUARY
PERCENTAGE OF CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED
This month’s figures provide a positive picture. More than half of you are experiencing better treatment and retail business than you did a year ago and your clients are, in the main, repeating their custom with you – despite the fact that only 20 per cent of salons questioned said they used a loyalty card system.
63
%
You are most excited about innovations in anti-ageing products this month and despite the general belief that therapists are missing retail opportunities, more than half of you say your team feels comfortable selling.
On the spot WHICH SECTOR OF THE MARKET DO YOU THINK HAS SEEN THE MOST INTERESTING LAUNCHES OVER THE LAST YEAR? 1. Anti-ageing products 2. Nail products 3. Hair products 4. Body products
20
%
OF YOU HAVE A LOYALTY CARD SYSTEM
36
%
OF YOUR CLIENTS ARE HOLIDAYMAKERS
60
%
OF YOU SAY YOUR THERAPISTS FEEL COMFORTABLE RETAILING
40
%
OF YOU WILL BE TAKING ON A NEW BRAND THIS YEAR
Professional Beauty GCC April 2014
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For more than 25 years, the Valmont Group has been helping women and men master the visible signs of ageing. Heir to traditional Swiss medicine, the company draws from the unspoiled natural resources of Switzerland and the latest cellular cosmetic research findings to formulate utmost anti-ageing skin care products featuring visible and long-lasting efficacy. The group has surrounded itself with the best experts to create extraordinary product ranges, all subtly combining refinement and anti-age efficacy‌ to enhance the beauty of women and men.
For Middle East enquiries, please contact +971 4 332 90 19 ext. 244 or email a.albu@creation-me.com
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business trends
professionalbeauty.ae
16 The month in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2014 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2013?
70 5 25
% BETTER
% SAME
%WORSE
PERCENTAGE OF CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED
51
Insider spa
%
Insider, our exclusive round-up of spa stats in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know
JANUARY
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2014 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2013
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
This month you are excited about innovations in anti-ageing and are enjoying good business in both the treatment and retail arena. Just over half of your client base is made up from locals, rather than hotel guests, and these clients are rebooking.
71
Business is up compared to last year and you are enjoying good treatment room occupancy. You are also confident in your therapists’ ability to retail products but most of you are not intending to introduce any new brands into your portfolio in the immediate future.
40
%
60
%
OF YOU SAY YOUR THERAPISTS FEEL COMFORTABLE RETAILING
60 40
%
OF YOUR GUESTS ARE TOURISTS
WHICH SECTOR OF THE MARKET DO YOU THINK HAS SEEN THE MOST INTERESTING LAUNCHES OVER THE LAST YEAR? .1. Anti-ageing products 2. Collagen products 3. Body skincare products
% BETTER
%WORSE
On the spot
10
%
OF YOU WILL INTRODUCE NEW BRANDS INTO YOUR SPA THIS YEAR
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spray tanning
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Fiona Vlemmiks reveals why spray tanning could bolster your business
Going for
GOLD W
e live in one of the sunniest climates in the world. With constant sunshine available for those who want to achieve a golden glow, some salons have been slow to realise the benefits of offering a sunless tanning system. Yet with more people now concerned about the potentially harmful effects of the sun’s rays, selftanning is growing in popularity. Sunless or self-tans are available in creams, gels, mousses and sprays. Professionally, many salons opt for spray tanning systems. Spray tans have little downtime (around 15 minutes for the application and five to ten minutes for drying, depending on the system). The latest formulas have little odour, give streak-free results and allow the client to leave the salon with an instant glow.
Safety matters Immediate results and the fact that spray tans work on all skin types, even those with very pale skin who wouldn’t normally tan, are reasons why people are shunning the sun, but the main selling point seems to be that spray tanning is simply a safe option. Ageing is caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic ageing is down to our genetic make-up and extrinsic ageing is caused by environmental factors such as the sun, smoking, and pollution, which prematurely age us. The number-one cause of premature ageing is sun exposure. Without protection from the sun’s rays, just a few minutes of daily exposure, over time, can produce freckles, age spots, wrinkles and can increase the risk of skin cancer.
There are two types of UV light that are damaging to the skin. UVA makes up most of our natural sunlight. It causes ageing and is now also linked to skin cancer. UVB burns the skin and is the main cause of nonmelanoma skin cancer. With self-tanning, the bronze effect is due to Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) a colourless sugar that interacts with the dead cells located in the stratum corneum of the epidermis. As the sugar reacts with the dead skin cells, a colour change occurs. This change lasts from five to seven days from the initial application. Marie Moulds, distributor of the St Tropez sunless tanning range comments, “The benefits of spray tanning versus other tanning methods include a healthier natural looking, streak-free tan to suit every skin tone, whilst no exposure to UV – a tan without the sun. There is also no premature ageing so you can have an all-year-round natural, safe tan.” Catherine Collins, director of Emerging Beauty Brands which distributes Xen Tan in the Middle East, agrees: “With spray tanning you are not exposing your skin to harmful UV rays so you decrease the risk of skin cancer. There is no need to tan outside in the sun for hours and you can adjust the intensity of how dark you would like to go by spray tanning more or less frequently. Another really important benefit is that your skin will retain its youthful appearance for longer as when you repeatedly expose your skin to harmful UV rays the ageing process is accelerated.” There are many spray tanning brands on the market, each with extensive retail ranges and business support. We ask the distributors of St Tropez, Xen-Tan and Vita Liberata to give us the low-down on their brands.
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Xen-Tan
St Tropez One of the first professional, self-tanning systems on the market, St Tropez is known world-wide and has a celebrity following including supermodel Kate Moss. Benefits for clients: The product is streak-free, easy to apply, long-lasting and will fade evenly. The Aromaguard virtually eliminates the self-tan aroma. It is paraben and sulphate free. St Tropez is also the winner of 85 awards worldwide. Unique selling points: The brand has a a fabulous range of retail products that are multifunctional. This includes Gradual Tan plus Firming, which tans, tones, firms and moisturises! Gradual Tan plus anti-ageing Face prolongs youthful skin and creates a luminous, sunkissed glow. The illuminator gives a perfect iridescent finish to the face, décolletage, arms and legs. The self-tan mousse offers lightweight, quick application and is our best seller. Business benefits: St Tropez is the most talked about brand in tanning with 85 awards to date. The St Tropez Booth, a cocoonlike shape, offers enhanced privacy. It also minimises overspray for a quicker drying time and advanced extraction. There is a team of experts here on the ground to support your salon. Contact Green Plain General Trading +971 50 652 96 10 or email info@st-tropezdubai.com
Another celebrity favourite, Xen-Tan has a time-release agent that controls the amount of the sunless tan ingredient released during application, leaving flawless and natural results. Benefits to clients: Each product in the range is created to suit all skin tones. The products are formulated with a unique “scent-secure” molecule and a time-release complex and these control the usual odour associated with so many self tans. Xen-Tan products are also formulated with an olive undertone, which results in a naturallooking tan. All products are paraben free, and the award-winning formulas are packed full of luxury ingredients such as green tea, gingko biloba, jojoba oil, vitamins E and A, aloe vera, milk thistle and shea butter, Xen-Tan ensures they are safe for even the most sensitive skins. Unique selling points: Xen-Tan provides an all-over, even coverage. The products are formulated with premium antioxidants and moisturisers that nourish the skin. The Xen-Tan spray tan can also be tailormade for the results PB’s pick for the client wants. For example, its lovely aroma you can apply one coat for a and breathe-easy lighter colour and two coats for a deeper colour. application Business benefits: The key benefits of adding XenTan to your salon menu is that you are providing your customers with a luxury, award-winning brand that is not only a successful professional brand, but is widely-distributed in upmarket retail stores worldwide. By adding spray tanning to your treatment menu you can offer customers more beauty services and generate more revenue very quickly as it is very easy to implement. It adds to the total beauty package of manicure/pedicure and hair services and it will help establish regular clientele for the salon, as customers will return weekly for their spray tan. With Xen-Tan you can have the total package of both professional products PB’s pick and a luxury retail line. for – flawless Contact: Emerging Beauty Brands on application and +971 4 368 72 88 or email an even and info@emergingbeautybrands.com
natural tan
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spray tanning
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22 Vita Liberata Vita Liberata is 100 per cent natural. It offers two different types of professional spray tan formulas in three differernt shades, Tinted, with a guide colour, and Invisi, a clear formula to avoid any marking on clothing or bed sheets. Benefits to clients: With sunless tanning you can tan on the go. It can take a while to get a tan from the sun or solarium, but with sunless tanning you can get an immediate effect for a wedding or special occasion. The product is 100 per cent toxin-free. It is 80 per cent organic and completely paraben free. It is even safe to use in pregnancy if you use manual application rather than a spray tan. Many women suffer from pigmentation in pregnancy and should stay away from the sun but many women still want to look good and a self-tan can help them feel better without any risks. Unique selling points: The tan is odourless and people can go out and about straight after application without looking streaky or obvious. The tan dries instantly so is suitable for clients with busy lifestyles. Vita Liberata has a patented ingredient called Pentavitin, which is a unique moisture lock that stays on the skin for 72 hours. This means the product has skin benefits beyond tanning. The new retail product, pHenomenal 2-3 week tan, can last up to four times longer than other self-tan products. Business benefits: There is a good mark-up on the product. It costs salons 28 dirhams for each spray tan, and they can charge up to 200 dirhams for a treatment. The brand is established around the world so salons know they are getting a good product, with great business support.
PB’s pick for versatility – there’s something to suit every client, even those who are pregnant
New! New! New!
Kissed by Mii is a new self-tanning range from Gerrard International, based in the UK. A professional treatment as well as a complete homecare range, Kissed by Mii products and tanning routines are separated into three easy-to-understand stages – Prepare, Bare and Care. Each step of the professional range has an emphasis on the treatment experience. Essentials like towelling robes for maintaining modesty, and hair turbans to comfortably protect hair come with the range, while treatment advice leaflets provide clients with pre and post-care information to help them make the most from their tan and encourage retail sales. Effortlessly Easy Tanning Solution is packaged in foil to prevent air and light getting to it, with a dispensing tap that makes it easy to pour just the right amount for each treatment. High-performance equipment includes an LVLP spray-tanning gun, which has been specially designed to make the most of Kissed by Mii. There is also an extraction booth to capture any overspray for a clean treatment room. PB Gerrard International is seeking a distributor for Mii in the UAE. For more information: + 44 (0) 161 980 2333
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by
A new tanning range with marine mineral extracts
Liner
Gerrard International does not currently hold a licence to distribute in the UAE.
Taking the nourishing benefits of coral seaweed and coastal flowers for sublimely soft skin and an even longer lasting, flawless tan.
Mii is looking to work with you. For more information on offering Kissed by Mii and becoming a distributor, please contact Gerrard International. E: danielle.gerrard@gerrardinternational.com | T: +44 (0) 161 980 2333 | W: gerrardinternational.com miicosmetics
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business tips
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Ask the experts Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business
How do I raise the brand profile of my salon?
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he key to ensuring that your salon is a successful venture is creating brand awareness, therefore an innovative and progressive approach to marketing is essential. Enlisting the services of a professional PR company with a background in the beauty industry is imperative, as it will have a niche understanding of what business and marketing strategies work to enhance brand awareness which, in turn, will enable your business to reach new heights. We specialise in offering cutting-edge marketing solutions for the beauty and aesthetics industry, and we have achieved tremendous success for our clients. For example, we worked with a UAE-based salon chain for several years which was relatively unknown when we started. The salon has become a well-known, awardwinning, international salon brand which attracts global media attention. The business now comprises four branches and has become the go-to salon for anyone looking for high-end beauty and cutting-edge hair treatments. The salon has also become the first choice for magazine editors for treatments, support for photoshoots and input for features. If you feel that you do not have the budget to support an extensive PR campaign, it is important to remember that PR solutions do not have to be expensive to be effective. A first-rate PR company will provide a tailormade PR and marketing campaign that will be appropriate
to the budget you have to help your business grow. Media coverage is absolutely crucial to building a highprofile reputation – it is a vital channel to connect with existing and potential clients and show them exactly what your business has to offer. Your PR company of choice should have a wide range of media contacts within your target demographic whom they can work with to get your brand featured. At NCPR we work closely with media, and due to our ongoing relationships and creative ideas, attain extensive, quality coverage for all our clients. For instance, through a perceptive media campaign, one of our clients was noticed by an international modelling agency, J Model Management, and was invited to participate in a global fashion event. Following this, the client attracted a host of new business and just three months later won a prestigious beauty award. This is a great example of the effect PR can have at its best!
Naydene Commins is managing director of NCPR - a PR and marketing company specialising in the beauty and aesthetics industry. Prior to launching her PR company, Naydene created and managed several businesses in the beauty sector including a hair and beauty salon, an online retail business, as well as a distribution company supplying skin and body products.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to fiona@professionalbeauty.ae
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As a newly trained make-up artist, what should I be doing to get my name known?
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How can I reward loyal customers without increasing my costs too much?
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uilding and retaining a loyal client base has to be your priority as a salon or spa owner or manager. Letting your clients know that you appreciate and value their custom is a big part of this. I always think it is nicer to take a more personal approach when offering a reward to your clients. This will make them feel special and, in turn, build trust. Offering a small discount off their regular treatment to be taken around the time of their birthday, or a thank you note with a discount voucher if they have referred a new client to you, shows the client that you pay attention to them and not just the money they bring in. I don’t think you ever need to advertise the fact you do this for loyal clients, you want it to be a lovely and unexpected surprise. You can also use this approach to promote your product or treatment ranges. Again, think about the client as an individual and what they would appreciate or benefit from the most. For example, recommending a new treatment or product with a small discount is a good way to not only reward your loyal clients but also to introduce them to new things. It’s not the size of the discount that matters, it’s the time you took to show that client you really do appreciate them, because without a loyal client base a business will not survive. Francesca Noretta is the owner and founder of FLN Spa Consultancy, which specialises in helping spas and salons optimise client service to retain business.
he first thing to do is create some images for your website, and then market it. Advertise your skills in local magazines and papers to create a buzz about yourself. Meet with local journalists, start a relationship and do their make-up if they’re going to a special event. Hopefully they’ll ask you for quotes when they write beauty articles. Word of mouth is the best form of advertising so within six months to a year you should start reaping the rewards of your hard work. Try and socialise with professionals you want to work with, such as hairdressers, fashion stylists and photographers. If they like you they will probably give you a job as they’ll enjoy spending the day working with you. When you first start out, working with hairdressers who do shoots for their salons is a great way to start creating a portfolio, but remember that a portfolio that looks too creative may scare some clients who are looking for a more commercial style of work. So try to do some tests that demonstrate your versatility and show that you can tone it down when necessary. If bridal make-up is your passion then try to do as many different bridal styles as possible then make friends with a local photographer who specialises in weddings. You may find that working closely with a bridal boutique will also pay dividends.
Daniel Sandler has been a make-up artist for more than 25 years, working internationally. He also has his own salon range Daniel Sandler Professional Finish Makeup.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to fiona@professionalbeauty.ae
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Wellbeing Through COLOUR THERAPY Organic Products Made In France
Spadunya Distribution Middle East Shams 1 Plaza Level, The Walk at Jumeirah Beach Residence P.O. Box 74036 Dubai, United Arab Emirates T: +971 4 4298662 | F: 00971 4 4298663 info@spadunyadistribution-me.com • www.altearahbio.com Untitled-2 1
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What skills should I look for when recruiting or promoting a manager?
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How should I adapt my service when treating a teenage nail client?
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ails are getting more and more popular, especially with younger people and teenagers. Many teens want their nails to be bright and show some form of art or additional bling. They can wear the brightest of colours and get away with it. It is important to remember these young ladies are our future breadand-butter clients, and therefore should be treated as such. Don’t dismiss them on the basis of age. Offer them a great experience and they will come back – and will recommend your services to others. Do not treat teenage clients as children in terms of their spending power. They might have a part-time job or birthday money to spend. But if a client that is obviously of school age walks into the salon wanting some nail art then do remember that first you need to check your insurance to ensure you are covered for under-16s. You will need parental consent and will also need to complete a client record card and make sure it’s signed. When you are working on a younger client’s nails, invariably their nail plate is small. You need to take extra care when doing your cuticle work, as their hands are still growing and any damage you do to the nail plate or matrix at this young age could be permanent. You also need to explain to them the importance of aftercare – teach them young! Nikki Austin is a PhD bachelor educator for distributor Nail Harmony UK, working with Gelish and All That Jazz, a range of polishes aimed at the teenage market.
he accepted definition of management is, “to run a business ensuring a profit is made by allocating the correct human and material resources and directing operations”. A manager’s responsibilities include hiring, firing, solving, leading, planning, organising, measuring and co-ordinating. The key is in the balance. Good managers have leadership qualities. Leaders inspire, recognising that each person is an individual, and work to bring out their strengths for the greater good of the team and business. Ensure your manager has that natural social influence that makes the team enthusiastic and want to work. A good manager will know the vision and goals of the organisation and direct the team to achieve these. They keep their eyes focused on the bigger picture while ensuring that the details and resources are used efficiently. You should appoint a clear, concise communicator. Good managers must communicate regularly with their teams, and when necessary handle problems quickly and explain why something needs to happen. They don’t just hand out directives. They must also be able to delegate responsibility, rather than feeling they have to do everything so that it is done right. This mindset works against managers as it makes the team feel as though there is a lack of trust. By delegating, the manager can grow the team around them and boost staff loyalty. PB Laura Carrick is the director of business and leadership training company In Flow International and also runs a not-for-profit mentoring scheme for female professionals.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to fiona@professionalbeauty.ae
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Jeff Pink
Orly’s founder and chief executive tells Eve Oxberry what’s behind the company’s rebrand and why extending the wear of polish is the future of nail care
F
amed for inventing the French manicure in the ’70s, Jeff Pink went on to create one of the bestknown professional nail brands in the world. Yet compared to other founders, the man himself has kept a relatively low public profile. But all that is changing in the wake of Orly’s rebrand last year which focused on Pink as a founder still very much in control of his company. He tells me he’s already turned down offers from L’Oreal and Revlon and has no desire to sell Orly in the foreseeable future. “In the States until very recently OPI was the number one professional brand, we were number two and Essie number three,” says Pink. “Since it was bought by L’Oreal, Essie has gone more mass market, and Coty paid so much for OPI I think they will go mass market to justify that, so that leaves Orly a very big opportunity to capture the professional market.” The latest marketing campaign features a portrait of Pink, using colours that match Orly polishes (top right on next page) , with the strapline “It all started with Pink”. “The professional market is a huge focus for us now,” he adds. “We’re getting down to the
nitty gritty of what they need to help build their nail services all over the world.”
Rapid response Indeed, way back in 1975, Orly was founded on Pink’s passion for the minutiae of what makes a product work for the professional. Having entered the industry with a beauty supply store in 1975, it was only a matter of months before he began developing his first product. “I visited many salons and manicurists and listened to their needs,” he says. “At that time there weren’t products for nail care; only colours and base and top coats. Manicurists were using paper and glue to strengthen nails.” His answer to this need was Romeo, a nylon fibrepacked base coat that created a mesh over the nail to strengthen it. It took off nationally and he soon followed it up with Ridgefiller, a base coat to smooth imperfections, which is still in the Orly collection today. However, it was the third launch that really put Orly on the map. A film director whom Pink supplied asked for a polish that would match the many costumes his actresses had to wear each day. “In those days you didn’t have the quick-drying polishes and top coats so it would take at least an hour to dry a manicure properly,” says Pink. He created the now world-famous French manicure by developing a white polish (unheard of at the time) and pairing it with a nude tone. The director loved it, as did the models at Paris Fashion Week where Pink next took the kits. In fact they loved it so much he renamed his “Natural Nail Look”, the French Manicure in their honour.
1975 Jeff Pink opens Orly as a beauty supply store and launches first product, nail strengthener Romeo
1976 Launches Ridgefiller base coat then the French Manicure (originally called The Natural Nail Look)
1980 French Manicure eventually takes off worldwide
KEY DATES
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“The French manicure sowed the seed for the big change that turned my company international,” says Pink. But although the name is now synonymous with naturallooking groomed nails, it wasn’t until the early ‘80s that consumers started to buy into it in a big way. “It’s strange, with many items I developed I was ahead of my time,” says Pink. “I created a nail artist kit in the late ’80s but it was so far ahead of its time I couldn’t sell it and now many years later it’s huge.”
Winning formulas
because we took some chemicals out that the government viewed as dangerous [DBP, formaldehyde and toluene] and we’re still working to replace them with other ingredients that will last as long,” he says. “We’re seeing a light at the end of the tunnel and I believe that in a short time we’ll have a nail polish that is really going to last more than a week… I do believe that that’s the future.” He says the launch of Orly’s Mega Pixel polish last year was a step in the right direction. “It is packed with tiny pieces of glass that make it three dimensional but, believe it or not, also make it last longer and we’re researching why.”
As well as the rebrand, which has seen Orly’s logo, packaging and point of sale materials change along with its The right feel marketing, Pink’s focus for the Orly is diversifying further into new coming months is on formulation. textures, which Pink says is a trend that still Orly has plenty of plans to keep has plenty of growth potential. “We are innovating within its gel polish line now coming up with some top coats that Gel FX, but Pink says the main can add texture to any polish,” he says. potential for growth in the nails “Texture is driving the market now more market as a whole lies in improving than gel and in the future I can see many the formulation of traditional polish. different types of texture and more “Around 20% of women today are possibilities for combining it with nail art.” The original Ridgefiller (left) using gel and the other 80% use polish, However, while he is investing heavily in and today’s product after the rebrand (right) so I do feel gel is here to stay but fashion and colour-led launches this year, nothing will take away from the polish,” he says. “When I Pink’s heart remains in the problem-solving treatment started in the ’70s the competition in acrylics was crazy products that made his name almost 40 years ago. “We for five years, after which only the best were left, and I have 24 different nail treatments that cover everything imagine that’s what will happen in gels – over the next from biting to fungus to dry cuticles,” he says. “Keep in two years only the good ones will survive.” mind that unlike polish, which is an impulse buy, if a However, the major challenge, he says, now lies in woman likes one treatment product she is always going extending the wear of polish so that women who like the to buy it, so they are the keys to customer loyalty.” And ease of removing it and changing colours frequently won’t with Pink at the helm for a long time to come, it looks like feel pushed into switching to gel purely for its durability. they are also the key to continued growth for Orly. PB “Nail polish does not last as long today as it used to Orly is distributed in the Middle East by Sawaya International. 1981 Launches Bonder base coat
1991 Creates first nail art kit
2002 Designs the Gripper Cap
2011 Launches Gel FX gel polish line
2012 Creates Shade Shifter colourchanging gel
2013 Creates 3D-effect Mega Pixel collection
KEY DATES
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A WALK ON THE
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Nail art is big news in the GCC and ever-discerning clients are looking for signature nails to get them noticed. Take inspiration from our Flowers in Animal Print designed by Artistic Nails scholar educator Ana Maria Gomez-Chile Learn how to create these nails in five easy steps using products from Artistic Nails. 1. Use Marbleize Cafe Latte (03043), Naked (03044) and In Bloom (03078) to create the base. Cure for 30 seconds in an LED lamp. 2. Using your Artistic Mini Striper brush, create cheetah print spots with Eccentric (03006). Cure for 30 seconds in an LED lamp.
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3. With Uptown (03017) Sincere (03108) and Innocence (03022), make the petals of the flowers with the darker colour in the centre and lighter on the tip, gently mixing them. Cure for 30 seconds in an LED lamp. 4. With Toxic (03066) mixed with Nobility (03072), create leaves, and with Diva Chic (03004), do thin lines in each petal from the centre, then add touches of Bride (03103) on the tips of each petal. Cure for 30 seconds in an LED lamp. 5. With Bride (03103), do mini dots in the centre of each flower. Using Eccentric (03006), define leaves to add detail. Small amounts of Hotness (03036) were added around the centre of the flower to create a glittery effect. Cure for 30 seconds in an LED lamp. Artistic Nail Design is distributed in the Middle East by Sawaya International and co distributed in the UAE by Beauty Essentials.
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Bio Sculpture Gel, the original everlasting manicure, is a chip-free, salon treatment that cures to a strong yet flexible, glossy finish and lasts for up to three weeks. The damage-free, nourishing treatment will protect and enhance your natural nails and is available in over 150 colours. As the original nail gel, Bio Sculpture Gel is tried, tested and proven. For your nearest salon or information on training courses for beginners and experienced nail technicians contact +9714 3414820 or info@bio-sculpture.ae Bio Scuplture Middle East
www.biosculpture.me
Proud members of the
nail news
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Nailbites
International collaborations, new launches and nail competition winners top this month’s nail news
School of rock Artistic Nail Design’s Art of Perfect Polish workshop wowed nail techs in Dubai last month. Alisha Rimando Botero, Artistic Nail Design’s executive vice president and artistic director, was in Dubai at the end of February to conduct the workshop. There was a fantastic turn out with nail technicians, salon owners and managers attending.
Said Esther Ng, regional manager for Beauty Essentials, Artistic Nail Design UAE co-distributor, “The ladies were absolutely bowled over by Alisha’s presentation, and demos, and were so excited about the possibilities for using Artistic Colour Gloss in their nail art. “There was an overwhelming interest in Artistic’s Rock Hard World Tour and the kit and also Rock Hard LED Gel. The
OPI’s summer fizz OPI is set to sparkle this summer as it announces a collaboration with The Coca-Cola Company. Several of the company’s most recognised brands – including Coca-Cola, Diet Coke, Cherry Coke, Sprite and Fanta – will be the inspiration for a line of OPI limitededition nail lacquers that will launch internationally in June. “OPI is thrilled to partner with the world’s top beverage company,” says OPI cofounder and executive vice president Suzi Weiss-Fischmann. “These two iconic brands truly deliver happiness in a bottle – whether it’s a refreshing, invigorating sip of Coke or a set of fingers and toes perfectly polished with OPI nail lacquer.”
ladies couldn’t believe how easy and fast the service was. “At the end of the workshop, Alisha presented the attendees with certificates. We are now looking forward to the next Rock Hard World Tour scheduled in Dubai.” Artistic Nail Design is distributed in the Middle East by Sawaya International and co distributed in UAE by Beauty Essentials.
LET’S GO DOTTY Online nail boutique and nail art specialist de Mains has hit its first milestone for its “A Dot a Day” challenge, in which it plans to design a dotinspired nail creation for every day of 2014. De Mains has now created over 50 nail art designs inspired by fashion, patterns and world events. The designs, which include a ballerina, a koala, and leopard print, have all been created using the de Mains Dotter, a hand-held tool with two spherical ends of different sizes that can be dipped in polish then used to draw patterns.
ROCK HARD TIPS
With the demand for express nails bigger than ever, Artistic Nail Design has launched Rock Hard Nail Xtensions to speed up the treatment time of extensions. They’re designed to stop creasing and cracking during application and are available in three colours: natural, white and clear.
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Gerrard International does not currently hold a licence to distribute in the UAE.
s k o . o l l r l i o F at K th
We realise that looks are important to your customers. But we also know that looks alone won’t last forever. That’s why we’ve taken the feedback from thousands of women who use spas and beauty salons to develop a complete range of makeup that has the feel of something that has been created just for them. One that combines killer looks with beautifully packaged education and support to ensure that you are able to offer your customers all that they ask for.
Mii is looking to work with you. For more information on offering Mii and becoming a distributor, please contact Gerrard International. E: danielle.gerrard@gerrardinternational.com | T: +44 (0) 161 980 2333 | W: miicosmetics.com
miicosmetics
miicosmetics
spa skincare
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Precious oil
U
Powerful and easy to absorb, body oils can offer clients a more targeted approach to skincare and boost your retail sales. Professional Beauty explains
sing oils as part of a body care treatment programme has always been advocated by the major spa brands. Oils have more synergy with the skin and developments in technology mean that they are no longer heavy and sticky, but can be found in a variety of mediums from dry to non-greasy. While facial treatments are still extremely popular, our Insider survey, last month, revealed that most spas in the UAE expected body treatments to be the most requested this spring and summer. Constant air conditioning and sun exposure ensure that dry skin is a common concern for most of our clients and hence regular body scrubs and hamman treatments are the norm. But in order to maintain the results of the treatments, daily care for the body, as well as for the face, should be prescribed to clients. Moisturising creams and gels offer one option. But for a more targeted approach, oils are preferable. Noella Gabriel, head of treatment and product development at Elemis, believes that oils are the best carriers to deliver nourishment and ingredients into the skin. As well as hydrating, they can deliver very effective firming and toning effects. She says: “Oils are very en vogue at the “The moment and have become even more biggest benefit sophisticated. Six years ago oils were of oils is that they heavy and sticky but now you can get have more synergy dry oils and non-greasy oils. The with the skin” texture and functionality has improved FIONA BRACKENBURY, and so has how we dispense them.” DECLÉOR Fiona Brackenbury, director of training at Decléor UK, believes consumers are becoming more body conscious and feels the peak in serum products (which she says is the category oils fit
into) is due to those oils offering a more targeted response. “Whether it is to break down fat or to stimulate collagen, there is an oil to address that. She adds: “The biggest benefit of oils is that they have more synergy with the skin. In this way they are more powerful and absorb deeper.” Although there is a rich tradition of using oils in the Middle East, some clients may still be sceptical about using them on a daily basis. The best way to introduce clients to an oil is to encourage them to try a treatment involving “Oils are very the use of oil. Gabriel explains en vogue at the that all of Elemis’s body moment and have treatments commence with an become even more oil application. “We exfoliate sophisticated” the skin after oiling, so the oil NOELLA GABRIEL, gives you that tiny barrier for the ELEMIS treatment. It makes the whole experience better,” she says. Brackenbury suggests that you highlight the benefits of daily use as opposed to just having an intensive treatment. She explains: “It is a bit like exercise; if the muscles are used for regular exercise they can take the impact, but if you haven’t done it for a while it is more of a strain on the muscles and you have to work harder to get back into it. It’s exactly the same concept with the skin, you have to increase the circulation to get rid of toxins and if you do it all year round you get more of an accelerated effect.” Last year Decléor launched its Youth Revealing Face and Body treatment, which combines both a facial and body treatment in one. Brackenbury, adds: “This has been really successful for spas to encourage clients to have both a facial treatment and introduce them to a body treatment too.” Turn the page to find out more about the latest body oils on offer for your salon. PB
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Nashi Nashi argan Dry Effect Perfect Body Oil has an exclusive formula employing oil of argan and oil of abyssinian. It provides hydration, improves skin tone and elasticity and gives the skin a feeling of softness without oiliness. It specifically targets dryness and stretch marks and tackles skin ageing. It can be massaged daily onto the body. Call: Dubai +971 4 252 52 66 or Abu Dhabi +971 2 666 80 98
Guinot
Hero Oils
A round up of some of the best body oils on the market
Guinot has launched its first body and hair dry oil, Huile Mirific, a combination of essential plant oils and vitamins, which protect the hair from hot summers and also work on the skin, nourishing it while creating a satin finish. Its aromatic blend of passion fruit flower, mandarin, sandalwood, and jasmine rejuvenate and energise the body with a subtle floral fragrance. Call: +971 6 573 93 92
Decléor Aromatherapy brand Decléor highlights two products it considers as its hero oils for the body. Aromessence Excellence, Youth Activator Body Serum is an anti-ageing body serum containing frankincense, sweet almond and hazelnut oils, addressing the needs of mature skin, helping to firm and smooth the body. Decléor’s Aromessence Slim Effect Draining Contouring Serum is a slimming body serum, which helps to combat water retention problems and refine the skin. It comprises elemi and grapefuit oils to deliver a visible reduction in the appearance of uneven, orange-peel skin making it ideal for detoxing and slimming. Call: +971 4 332 90 19
Elemis The Japanese Camelia Oil from Elemis is a lightweight oil which easily absorbs into the skin. It contains plant collagen to keep the skin moisturised and supple, improves elasticity and hydration to prevent stretch marks and the formation of scar tissue, making it a great oil to use on expecting mothers. Call: +971 4 324 54 14
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Anne Semonin
Phytomer
The Anne Semonin Botanical Body Oil softens and relaxes the entire body. The product includes the essential oils of lavandin, mandarin zest and marjoram for their revitalising qualities. The formulation also contains hazelnut oil, which is deeply nourishing and regenerating, and sesame oil to moisturise, clarify and brighten. Call: +971 4 379 19 66
In recognition of the need for a targeted body care product, Phytomer has created a high-tech formula called Celluli Attack. Ingredients include sea absinthium, sea grape to help control slimming genes and vectorised sea pepper to help burn stubborn fat. The idea behind the product is that you only need to use a few drops to help decrease fat cells, reduce cellulite and localise fat. The product also smooths the orange-peel effect on the surface of the skin. Call: +971 2 676 46 00
Docteur Renaud
Clarins
The French professional skincare brand Docteur Renaud has created the Peach Sublime Body Dry Oil to help hydrate the skin and leave a non-greasy finish. It combines the moisturising and nourishing properties of peach kernel oil with the regenerating and restructuring powers of grapeseed oil plus the “beauty elixir� plum kernel oil. The oil is clinically proven to provide a 112 per cent increase in hydration of the skin within 30 minutes of application and a 42 per cent increase in hydration after 28 days of use. Call: + 971 6 573 93 92
Clarins offers three body treatment oils. These blends of essential oils and plant extracts were created in 1954 and have remained unchanged ever since. The three oils are Tonic, Anti-Eau and Relax. Tonic maintains and improves skin tone and contains rosemary to reduce puffiness as well as sage and mint for their wellbeing and cooling properties. Anti-Eau helps eliminate toxins and boosts skin circulation and contains broom, marjoram, lemon and geranium to reduce fluid retention. Relax helps with muscle fatigue and tension, and contains petitgrain and chamomile which are recognised for their calming and soothing properties. Call: +971 4 299 61 11
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FACEvalue Award-winning facialist Lydia Espin tells Fiona Vlemmiks why opening her own business was worth the wait What’s your beauty industry background? I’ve been in the beauty industry for more than 10 years. I always wanted to do beauty but my parents wanted me to study business so I completed my qualifications and then went back to college to study beauty. It was my passion. I’m glad I did it that way as I’ve used my business qualifications in setting up my own business. I went to work in a spa on a voluntary basis for four months before they offered me a job, but by the end of my time there I ended up being the manager of two branches. I then came out to Dubai and I worked in a beauty salon for nearly five years as a manager and then I decided to start my own business. I’ve had many opportunities along the way to start my own business, people have offered to invest in me, but I wanted to wait until I was ready. It took me to 10 years to get here but the experience I had along the way helped me immensely.
Tell us more about your facialist awards and accolades I have won the Dermalogica Best Skin Therapist of the year award and the Elemis Facial Therapist of the year. I have worked with Dermalogica from the beginning, I even won their student award! Dermalogica approached me and said “I think you should go for this award”. There was a written exam, a practical exam and an interview. All the examiners were different trainers from across the Middle East. I found out I’d won on the night of the awards. It was amazing. It was the highlight of my career.
I hear there is a waiting list for your facials? I only perform facial work in the salon now due to other duties, but I do work the business. I’m fully hands-on, everyday. I remember at the beginning panicking that I wouldn’t get enough clients but through word of mouth
How did Essa evolve? I started off with not much money and it was very scary doing it on a budget. I sourced everything myself, from the taps to the sinks, to the towels. Every single piece of furniture, every towel, has a story. I remember buying every piece. Sometimes I have to pinch myself to remind me that I have achieved this! I started out alone and then I slowly built my staff to eight members.
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“I sourced everything myself, from the taps to the sinks, to the towels. Every single piece of furniture, every towel, has a story.”
on OPI nails. After opening the business, I went home for a holiday and found my old coursework. In my “salon” I said I wanted to use OPI, Dermalogica and Elemis! We have recently taken on a third range – Eminence. It’s completely organic and I decided to offer this as many clients are asking for organic treatments. Lots of pregnant ladies want organic treatments, so we also use Voya for nails as that is also safe in pregnancy.
Who makes up your client base? customers soon arrived and before I knew it there was an eight-week waiting list for my facials. I was working six days a week, back-to-back on facials. I did this for a year but I soon became exhausted so I hired two members of staff and now the waiting list has gone down!
What makes an award-winning facial therapist? You need to know your stuff and have that knowledgebase behind your treatment, and you need to perform to a high standard. You need to really address the client’s skin problems and get results for them. It’s about offering a bespoke service and ensuring that you get clients to follow a homecare plan. You get good results from a facial but you can’t maintain the results unless you use the correct products at home. I always tell my clients that it’s like going to the gym. If you just go once a month, you are not going to see results.
What elements are important when selecting brands for your salons? I’ve always known I would use Elemis and Dermalogica. I had to set up a fictional salon in college as part of my coursework. We had to choose a name, the brands we were going to use. I came here to open my business and I started with Dermalogica and I took on Elemis later. I love both brands for different reasons. They work well together because they are very different. I also decided
It’s varied. We get most of our clients through word of mouth and we get some passing trade. We get Dubai residents rather than holidaymakers due to our location and we have clients from seven years of age (if they come with their mums, they can have nails painted with the organic Voya nail varnish) to the age of 81! Most of our clients are repeat business.
How do you see the beauty industry evolving in the Middle East? I think the opportunites for businesses are much better here than in the UK. People here are more likely to spend on beauty. Dubai is cosmpolitian and people like to feel and look good. The opportinuties here are endless.
What is your vision for Essa in 2014 and beyond? I am not in the express beauty business as many places are here. I am trying to create an environment where people can take time out and relax but not have to pay spa prices. I like people to make time to come and I won’t rush treatments. We don’t target people who want quick lunchtime treatments. I am sticking to my roots. This is how salons operate in the UK. It’s been a busy two years setting up the business and I definitely want to open more branches but I am enjoying where I’m at for now and I don’t want to rush things. Maybe I will start thinking about expansion at the end of the year. PB
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Shirin Abdulrazak explains the impact of staff poaching and how to prevent it by placing greater value on your team
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shortage of experienced staff, with proper language skills, is a key issue for the beauty business. At Sisters, we look for staff with “star-quality” and once we employ someone we begin a rigorous year of training. If that staff member is then poached by another business, the consequences are far reaching. The poaching of key personnel injures the former employer who will not only lose a good staff member, they may further lose loyal customers to a rival salon, their trade secrets and their customer data – jeopardising overall profitability. So how do we prevent this from happening? At Sisters we enjoy a healthy staff retention level as our staff are incentivised and enjoy great working conditions. This promotes loyalty. The secret of beauty and attractiveness has been a quest of humans for as long as we have been civilised. Many women spend up to one-third of their income on looking good and in the process develop great relationships with the people who make them look good. As a salon owner I have, many times, witnessed clients treat the salon staff as they would a near-anddear, special someone. A hairstylist, waxer, nail tech, indeed, every good therapist, enjoys a special relationship with each of her clients. Some employers fail to appreciate this and are simply customerfocused. Yet I believe it is also important to be staff-focused.
“MANY WOMEN SPEND UP TO ONE-THIRD OF THEIR INCOME ON LOOKING GOOD AND IN THE PROCESS DEVELOP GREAT RELATIONSHIPS WITH THE PEOPLE WHO MAKE THEM LOOK GOOD” When I started out in the industry, staff conditions were less than desirable. Yet we believe in staff relationship management that will parallel our customer relationship management. I didn’t want my staff whining away about their employment problems to clients. I wanted them to relax and feel happy. I wanted to engage with happy staff in an ambience that was positive and cheerful. To influence the staff mindset we have to engage with staff at a human level, understand their needs and motivations of coming to work and live alone in the UAE, leaving their families. Nonetheless, despite these efforts, a small percentage of staff is poached from time to time. However, in almost all cases ex-employees return to Sisters, pleading for their job back as the grass was not as green as it seemed. In conclusion, employee poaching in highly skilled labour markets has been a growing concern for many industries, not just salons. Businesses must not obstruct the efficient flow of workers to where their skills are most productive, but at the same time we should be concerned about the potential damages from predatory hiring. This goes beyond the traditional tradeoff between the freedom to change jobs and the protection of proprietary information. Being stafffocused as well as customer-focused should help you gain staff loyalty and serve as a protection against poaching problems. PB
Shirin Abdulrazak is founder of successful salon chain Sisters Beauty Lounge. Ask her opinion or advice at news@professionalbeauty.ae
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THE
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The relaxation area at So Spa, Sofitel, the Palm
CONNECTION Fiona Vlemmiks catches up with spa specialist Aldina Duarte Ramos to discuss wellness and the ethos behind the So Spa brand
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t’s the first day of the Sofitel So Spa seminar and the group’s spa mangers from around the globe are arriving at the luxury French hotel chain’s property on the Palm, Dubai.
Aldina Duarte Ramos, director of development of wellness activities, is clear about the chief message she wants to portray during the event, where managers are gathering to share best practice. “It’s all about wellness,” she tells me. “We are the We generation”, is our slogan. Wellness is everywhere. I want to get across that it is about creating links between every function in the hotel to give the guest a full wellness experience, not just in the spa.” Duarte Ramos, who has been in her current role since 2012, has a wealth of industry experience and is also president of Spa A, the French spa association. She is responsible for the strategic repositioning of the Sofitel brand globally and is credited with the design and deployment of the So Spa wellbeing concept. Her remit also includes Sofitel Thalassa Sea and Spa, 14 hotels dedicated to thalassotherapy – the therapeutic use of the ocean and marine products. “We decided to join spa and wellness expertise and create a joint division. I’ve been working on the repositioning of thalassotherapy to bring more spa into it, in terms of attitude and routine, and thanks to thalassotherpay we are bringing more innovation into spa.” Inspired by thalassotherapy, Duarte Ramos is unveiling a new treatment to managers at the seminar, which will involve the use of oxygen, aromatherapy and micro-needling.
“Here in the Middle East clients want fast results, so we need to bring technology to our spa offer. We have a wonderful machine that we use in thalassotherapy; it’s a machine that can infuse oxygen into the skin. It has fantastic results and because we have had such wonderful experience with it in thalassotherapy, now I want to bring it to the spa. It has powerful rejuvenating and anti-ageing effects. We’re very excited.”
Veritable feast French elegance is at the heart of the Sofitel brand and accordingly, So Spa uses only French products such as the Anne Semonin luxury skincare range. It has recently partnered with former actress and model Marisa Berenson, who has created a range of cosmetics and beauty treatments exclusively for the hotel group. Berenson’s signature treatment will be launched in Dubai this year when the actress is set to visit the region. One element that sets So Spa apart is its innovative treatment menu, which Duarte Ramos says is the spa’s “DNA”. She explains the concept behind it: “We were working on the Sofitel repositioning and Muse Marisa Berenson and her beauty range, Sofitel is all about French designed for So Spa
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Innovative and celebrated
hair & beauty products from Rapid General Trading UAE supplier of famous awarded brands
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The treatment area at So Spa, Sofitel, the Palm
elegance, about cuisine, about gastronomy. We wanted the spa to be a serious thing, but we wanted it also to be fun. I had one hundred treatment menus in my office. They had all the treatments listed by category and we said ‘okay, isn’t there another way to create our menu’? “We said, ‘Ok, when you go to a spa you need to prepare your body. This could be the starter in terms of the menu. The starter could be a body polish, a body scrub, a bath. This is a starter perfect – it works’! “Then you have your main treatment, your main treatment could be your main course. It could be a facial, a body massage or a ritual, but this will be your main purpose for the visit to the spa. And then you might like to have a little add on treatment. This will be the dessert, maybe an extra 30-minute massage on your head or your feet, maybe you would like to your feet and nails done, maybe you would like to have some hair and make-up. It was so easy to put together. The menu differentiates us from other spas. Our DNA is the menu.” The menu is filled with bespoke treatments, or experiences, and guests enjoy a “butler service” when they arrive for a consultation. But what is at the heart of a perfect spa experience for guests? Duarte Ramos believes we need to listen to the guests and ask the right questions. “We assume sometimes that the guest knows what he wants, but sometimes he just wants to be taken care of, so we need to let the guest understand that he can relax now and that we are in charge. We need to avoid the ‘mini stress’ of the guest and anticipate his every need. Just ask, ‘How long are staying with us? How do you feel right now? How would you like to feel after the treatment? Do you have a special event afterwards? Are you on vacation? Would you like to relax after the treatment?’ These simple questions show guests that you really care and this can make all the difference.” The Sofitel is due to open its downtown Dubai venue in May, where the So Spa will focus on business clientele. There is a further opening in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, set for 2015. PB
Under the rain I was invited to trial the So Spa experience myself, at the Palm, in the form of the signature Under The Rain experience. Under The Rain employs a Vichy shower and involves elements of aroma, sound and colour therapy. I lie on a warm, water-filled mattress that emits different colours throughout the treatment. Assorted sounds, such as birdsong, lull me into serenity as my therapist washes my body, rinses with warm water and then commences with a thorough body scrub. It is invigorating and I can feel my body (but not my skin) tingling – like my circulation has been given a well-needed boost. The Vichy shower releases a lavender aroma, which is deeply relaxing, and when the water is employed, it is warm and comforting like tropical rain. A body mask is applied and a tent is erected around my body so it can be steamed to propel the product, a natural clay, into my skin. I then have a mini facial and relaxing head massage. My therapist explains that she can switch off the steam, at any point, should I become uncomfortable, but I enjoy the warmth. She is attentive throughout, with fabulous knowledge of the benefits of the treatment and product. Once the facial is complete, and the body mask is showered off, I am taken into another room for the application of moisturiser before being led back to the relaxation area where I sip herbal tea and enjoy the warmth of a lavender wheat pillow. I’ve never felt quite so clean and smooth, as well as relaxed. The next day I feel energised and uplifted. The treatment is detoxifying, my skin is clear and my mind less foggy. The area I notice the most skin improvement on is my back, which often I neglect to moisturise. My skin is now buttery soft and the condition remains improved for weeks afterward.
Aldina Duarte Ramos has been director of development and wellness activities at Sofitel since 2012. She has worked within the wellness sector for 14 years and has been president of the French Spa A Association since 2008.
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Altearah Bio Colour Therapy Attention spas, therapists, healers and beauty centres! Altearah Bio is a 100% Organic French Colour Therapy range. A combination of aromatherapy and chromotherapy, the range comprises of 14 colours and scents that harmonise the mind, body and spirit. Distributed in the Middle East by Spadunya Distribution, the ready-to-use essential oil compositions are formulated in perfumes, face and body oils, serums, gommages, bath salts, fragrances and candles. These products are an ideal complement for anyone working in the wellbeing industry to either include the treatments or recommend products to clients. Spadunya provides full training. For enquiries: E: info@spadunyadistribution-me.com • T: +971 4 4298662 www.altearahbio.com • www.spadunyaclub.com
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18/3/14 15:58:55
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THE BIG
freeze The new generation of fat-freezing machines promises pain-free, permanent results but is the technology too good to be true? Eve Oxberry finds out in our report from the UK
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ryogenic lipolysis may sound like a futuristic and specialist procedure, but in fact it’s the simplicity and almost universal appeal of this “fat freezing” technology that’s causing more and more businesses to investigate its potential. Cryo lipo machines work on stubborn pockets of fat, by using a vacuum motion, which sucks the area, then cryotherapy (the use of extremely cold temperatures) to freeze it. The freezing temperatures cause some of the fat cells in the area to die. These dead cells are then naturally eliminated through the body’s endocrine system.
Like many aesthetic technologies, this treatment started out in clinics, with machines such as Zeltiq’s CoolSculpt. As the technology has become more commonplace, a new generation of easy-to-operate and more affordable machines, such as 3D-Aesthetics’ 3D-lipo, Lipoglaze by Lovelite, and Aesthetics of London’s various machines, are now targeting the beauty and spa market. “The original technology in the USA was outside the financial commitment of most salons,” agrees Rajiv Dash, managing director of Aesthetics of London, which manufactures and sells cryo lipo machines and also uses them in its clinics. “However, with the advent of cheaper and decent-quality equipment the product is now accessible to most mid-sized salons.” One of the major attractions of cryo lipolysis is that, unlike most non-invasive body contouring technologies, the effect
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is permanent. Freezing causes cell death via a process known as apoptosis, and those dead fat cells can never return. However, the fat cells around the treated area can still grow in size, meaning clients may put weight back on if they don’t exercise and follow a healthy diet. “By the time we reach puberty we have the maximum number of fat cells we’re ever going to get then all they do is expand,” says Debra Robson, director of Lovelite, which sells the Lipoglaze machine. “Each cryo lipolysis treatment kills cells but if you don’t follow a sensible eating plan others can grow in size.” Another advantage of cryo lipo is that it is relatively painless and results can often be seen after just one treatment. “That is a huge draw because with any machines, one of the first questions from clients is always ‘how many will I have to have?’,” says Jenny Adams, who uses the 3D-lipo machine in her UK salon. Most machines are also easy to operate, allowing therapists to set them in motion then leave them to run through the cycle for an hour, just checking on the client intermittently, freeing them up to get other work done.
Know your limits The technology sounds almost too good to be true, but like any equipment it has its limitations. The time taken to see results can also vary, depending in part on a client’s metabolism, but some manufacturers say it could take up to four months to see the full effect. It’s also not suitable for very overweight people as it can only target small areas of fat rather than overall weightloss.
Soft options Unsurprisingly, the abdomen is usually the most popular area for treatment. Adams reveals that it is particularly effective on post-baby tummies, especially as the 3D-lipo, which she uses, also includes radiofrequency technology for skin tightening. Dash says the treatment is suitable for all areas of the body except around the chest but adds “the typical client is female, between the ages of 30 and 50 with the most common areas being lower abdomen, inner thighs and arms.” “You get the best results on the abdomen where fat is
Lipoglaze
One of the major attractions of cryo lipolysis is that, unlike most non-invasive body contouring technologies, the effect is permanent
soft,” adds Robson-Lawrence. “Areas with harder fat, such as the outer thighs, are more difficult to treat.” Meanwhile Adams says that the technology is not ideal for those with an “apple shape” figure. “The fat is too deep and won’t suck up into the headpiece so you need to start with cavitation to reduce the bulk, then you can use cryo on the stubborn areas left.” The largest market for most seems to be women over 40. Adams, whose salon is based alongside a gym, says it’s also popular with fitness fanatics who eat well and exercise but are still left with stubborn areas of fat. “When I first took on a laser lipo machine gym-goers thought it would be cheating but this is more appealing to them because it’s more about contouring and everyone has stubborn bulges.” Men are not excluded from cryo lipolysis either. “It’s very popular with men to target the tummy,” says Pearce. “It tends to be popular with men who’ve been on major diets.”
Spread the word Businesses interested in buying or leasing a cryo machine should first conduct research. Check that you will have exclusivity in your area, and make sure there is demand for the treatment. Create special offers to drum up interest and build clients before the machine arrives. Most of the machine brands have a salon finder function on their websites, which can help generate clients. While the technology is still relatively new to the beauty market, Robson Lawrence says it is already advancing. “We’ve developed a machine with three heads to treat different sized areas and our next machine will be able to treat two areas at the same time, which will be great for thighs.” Lipoglaze is also developing its own aftercare cream containing arnica to reduce bruising, and chamomile and lavender to soothe. PB Contacts www.zeltiq.com www.loveliteuk.co.uk www.3D-aesthetics.co.uk
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hair trends
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glory
CROWNING
From the “lob” to mermaid waves, this season hair is all about
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statement. We get the lowdown from leading stylist Marie Dowling.
pring is all about sharp, elegant hair that stands out from the crowd. Mid-length styles, which we call a “lob” (long bob), will be a very strong trend for the rest of 2014. Already we have lots of clients changing from long hair and bringing the length just below the shoulders. This is also good for anyone growing out a bob. The best thing about mid-length hair is that is can be worn sleek, curly, tossed or choppy. Good examples of the lob are Alexa Chung, Olivia Palermo and actress Rose Burne. In terms of styling, mermaid waves (as featured on the front cover) are in. This is a much softer, random wave, rather than a perfect wave throughout the hair. We will also see a lot of low ponytails with centre partings. Bobs and the pixie crop are still strong for this year. The gypsy shag haircuts, which were popular in the 1970s, are making a comeback this season. On the ’70’s theme, hair is full, bouncy and glossy. A perfect example is Kate Moss’s
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latest campaign for Kerastase. Normally she has more of a casual style, but her hair on this shoot is full of body.
Cutting-edge colour In the salon, we are working with a lot of cool browns this year. For beige blondes think Taylor Swift, Nicole Richie or Blake Lively. Blondes will also be more natural – less of the platinum blonde and more tone, depending on the skin tone, and the depth of the hair. Highlights are out and we are softening clients’ ombré to what we call ‘sombré’, which is a much more toned down version of ombré – a few shades darker, but lighter than the top colour. It’s less obvious and more natural looking. For those moving away from ombre, we are recommending clients move the light ends further up the hair. For example, Kim Kardashian now has less root area on the top. A client’s skin tone will determine whether they can have the lighter colour near their face, so a good consultation is essential.
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“The Lob”
On the ’70s theme, hair is full, bouncy and glossy. A perfect example is Kate Moss’s latest campaign for Kerastase
MAKINGwaves Create our cover girl look with Maria’s step-by-step guide
STEP 1: Shampoo and lightly condition the mid-length through to the ends of the hair, and make sure you apply a heat protector before blow-drying. STEP 2: Finger dry until 90 per cent dry, then smooth with your styling brush. STEP 3: Start by taking sections from the underneath (approx 1 inch thick), and using a Mariadowling Ritual M Curling wand, wind the hair from the wide area to the slim area of the wand. Hold in place and count to 12 before releasing slowly, keeping hold of the end of the curl and pulling down. This is so important, as the curl settles while cooling down so you need to do this to retain the curl shape. STEP 4: Continue with this pattern and always work the curls out away from your client’s face. STEP 5: For the final brushing out think of the hair being in two sections: the left side and right side. Slowly run your hand through the hair to bring it together while keeping it close to your client’s head. Then with the hair in your hands, pull the hair downwards and allow the wave to spring back into place when you get to the end of the hair. Repeat on the opposite side.
“The Crop” Maria Dowling is one of the most respected stylists in the Middle East with her Dubai-based salon specialising in bespoke colour services. She has also developed a range of signature hair-styling tools. For more information call: + 971 4 345 42 25 or visit www.mariadowling.com
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All images courtesy of Maria Dowling salon
STEP 6: To finish, apply a light serum to keep it looking smooth. A light hairspray will maintain the look. PB
20/03/2014 11:34
KEVIN.MURPHY SULPHATE FREE. PARABEN FREE. CRUELTY FREE.
Kevin Murphy Middle East
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5/3/14 09:48:10
hair interview
professionalbeauty.ae
57 Jez Barnett, managing director of KeraStraight, gives gives us the gen on the brand’s success
Straight talk
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aming wild tresses that are unruly due to condition or type is the goal of hairdressers globally. Particularly in our region, due to environmental factors, repair and straightening systems have become big business. KeraStraight is a semi-permanent hair repair, straightening and smoothing system that improves condition, strength and shine and can last up to four months. “KeraStraight’s main active ingredient is cysteine, which is a naturally found amino acid,” explains Jez Barnett, managing director. “This amino acid is added to the existing protein molecules to form a semi-permanent patch across the hair’s inner structure to create a new shape with the aid of heat.” The treatment is suitable for any client that struggles with curly, wavy, frizzy or unruly hair. KeraStraight is a treatment that rebuilds the keratin, the natural protein which gives hair and nails strength, within the hair, working both internally and externally on the hair, simultaneously repairing and straightening all hair types. The process takes three to four hours. The brand also offers a range of products to maintain the results such as the in-salon Intense Boost Treatments, a Protein Mask and a Moisture Mask that can be used to rehydrate and smooth the hair. “Intense Boost repairs and feeds hair in just 30 minutes and lasts up to 30 days,” says Barnett. “It is available in two variants, Moisture Boost and Protein Boost. As our treatments are based on proteins, we can strengthen and repair all hair types and transform the hair up to the very last tip.”
KeraStraight - the hair after a treatment
“Our products are designed by hairdressers who understand the needs of both salons and their clients. We also have the endorsement of some of the greatest award-winning hairdressers who value the KeraStraight treatment range as not only providing the ultimate results but also in the fact that KeraStraight is completely and certifiably safe for the user and consumer.” Joining the brand’s line of shampoos, conditioners and aftercare products is the newly-launched Ultimate Oil product and the KS Style range. KeraStraight Ultimate Oil is a blend of nine oils, which provide intense nourishment to transform and repair hair from the inside and out. Ultimate Oil’s non-greasy, lightweight formula absorbs easily into the hair to protect and strengthen, leaving all hair types ultra-smooth, shiny and frizz free.
“OUR PRODUCTS ARE DESIGNED BY HAIRDRESSERS WHO UNDERSTAND THE NEEDS OF BOTH SALONS AND THEIR CLIENTS” KS Style comprises a range of five style products that feed the hair as you style. Explains Barnett, “The foundation of the KS Style range, KS Care & Protect Complex is an exclusive, heatactivated trilogy of wheat-based proteins that penetrate the hair’s cortex to fortify and rebuild, as well as re-enforcing the cuticle to provide repair and enhanced shine. This innovative protein technology rebuilds the hair’s strength and elasticity, restores moisture and delivers superior heat protection.” The new KS Style product range includes, Rescue Crème, Moisture Mist, Root Lift Spray Gel, Heat Protection Spray and Glossing Texture Crème. PB For more information on KeraStraight please call Rapid General Trading + 971 55 105 79 93
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Luxury living
This month’s treatments are all about indulgence with a five-star facial and royal hammam experience NEW: Yon-ka Neroli Candle Massage Following on from the success of Yon-ka’s original massage candle, the French brand has devised the Neroli treatment candle. The candle fills the treatment room with a scent of neroli, petitgrain and orange essential oils to help calm and relax the client. The one-hour massage then begins with a warm foot compress, followed by the warm candle oil massage. Three warm Phyto-Bain foot compresses are then used to end the treatment. The candle can also be purchased by the client afterwards. Call Medispa Solutions: +971 5 2879 07 72
This month we tried... Natura Bissé – The Diamond Facial in the Bubble Pure Air chamber The lowdown: Natura Bissé – Bubble Pure Air is a new concept for facial and body treatments performed in a tent where 99.995% pure air is pumped around, creating a clean environment. The purified air is completely free of polluting particles as well as viral, bacterial, and allergen agents, maximising the effects of the treatment. The Diamond Facial provides deep exfoliation and long-lasting hydration to improve the skin’s elasticity. Anti-ageing products penetrate to the deepest layers of the skin to help it to regenerate. How it worked: The bubble is a round, white, tent with enough room inside to perform the treatment comfortably. The air inside is cool and you can hear it being pumped around as the treatment commences. A lavender inhalation lulled me into relaxation as my skin was cleansed and toned. The Glyco Extreme Peel was then applied, which fizzed on my skin but was gentle
enough not to cause any tingling. I enjoyed an arm massage using the brand’s body cream that left a lovely shimmer. Next came the facial massage, comprising a relaxing pressure point massage followed by the cryo-lifting mask and a lovely scalp massage. The treatment ended with an application of moisturiser from the brand’s Diamond line. Best for: Clients who want immediate and visible anti-ageing results. Perfect before a big event. PB says: I could see an instant improvement in my skin, which was softer, smoother and more luminous. There was a definite lift around my eye area and the fine lines appeared reduced. The following day I woke up completely rejuvenated and energised, which I attributed to the oxygen chamber. My mind felt clearer and I was much more productive due to my replenished energy levels. The most surprising result was how long my skin radiance lasted, I noticed improvement for at least a fortnight afterwards. Tested by Fiona Vlemmiks at The Spa, The Address Downtown, Dubai.
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treatment reviews
59 This month we tried... The Ultimate Zen Hammam The lowdown: The hammam experience is a time honored Middle Eastern tradition. The effects of hammam include pain relief, muscle relaxation, and respiratory benefits. It is also detoxifying, stress-relieving, and promotes beautiful skin. A traditional hammam experience involves the cleansing, exfoliation and moisturising of the body in a steam chamber. Zen Spa at the Rotana, Al Ain, has created a series of bespoke hammam rituals and The Ultimate Zen is the spa’s most luxurious, including the application of a body mask and facial. How it works: The spa is tranquil and ambient and my therapist is attentive, ensuring I know what to expect and frequently checking to see how comfortable I am. I’m led into the steam room, which is cool enough for me to stay in for the 90-minute experience. My therapist applies black soap to cleanse and soften my skin in preparation for the kese (exfoliating mitt), which removes my dead skin. The scrubbing is brisk but I find it reviving and revitalising, and I can feel my nose clear and my breathing improve due to the steam. A mineral-rich body mask is then applied, and I enjoy a facial using ingredients infused with date extracts to soften and brighten the skin. It smells good enough to eat! The accompanying massage is wonderful. The body mask is showered off and the ritual ends with oil being poured scent over my body to moisturise my skin, leaving a lovely aroma. My therapist performs a brief massage to reawaken my body so I’m ready to face to world again. Best for: Those wanting a pure pampering experience that is also results-driven. PB says: This was my first hammam experience and I hadn’t anticipated how wonderful I would feel afterwards. I’m definitely a convert. I wasn’t sure whether I’d find prolonged use of steam uncomfortable, but I was comfortable throughout. The Rotana at Al Alin is favoured by royalty and I can see why. My skin was left squeaky clean, smooth and shiny and I am refreshed and relaxed. Both effects last for days afterwards. Tested by Fiona Vlemmiks at Zen, the Spa Rotana, Al Alin
NEW: Comfort Zone Longevity Body Treatment Comfort Zone has extended its Skin Regimen line to include body products and as part of the launch, the Italian skincare house has created a spa body treatment called Longevity. Offering an express service with visible results, it takes just 30 minutes and aims to renew, restore, tone and reposition the skin tissues for a youthful, healthier appearance. Techniques used are inspired by the Kabat method, a neuromuscular rehabilitation system used to reinforce skin tissue and muscle elasticity. The treatment uses two products from the new line, the Juvenate body scrub, with key ingredients including chia seeds to detoxify and tropaeolum extract to oxygenate, and Juvenate Body cream with matcha tea and caffeine. Call: +971 4 447 76 36
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new products
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61 Nouveau Lashes The product line has grown and now offers an extensive range of lash treatments and products for both natural and false lashes offering strong retail opportunities. The oil free eye make- up remover prolongs the life of clients' lash extensions if used at home regularly. The LVL conditioning serum protects, strengthens and nourishes clients' natural lashes after a lash-lifting treatment. Call +971 4 345 46 46
eyes HAVE IT
THE
This month we are focusing on products for the eye area as well as showcasing what’s new Phytomer
The Expertise Age Contour Intense Youth Eye Cream, which can be used for retail and professionally, comprises a high-performance, anti-ageing formula designed to target and reduce visible signs of ageing in wrinkle-prone areas like the eyes and lips. This lightweight cream is easily absorbed and works quickly to rejuvenate mature as well as stressed skin. Marine Criste, a seaside plant, is one of the main ingredients. It has a “retinol-like” effect which smoothes and corrects crow's feet and firms the eye's contours. Used daily, the eyes should become brighter and visibly younger. Call: +971 2 676 46 00
Jane Iredale Mystikols is a dual-ended powder eyeliner and highlighter that creates smoky eyes in seconds, employing a creamy powder formula, which the brand says won’t fade, crease or smear. It is hypoallergenic, dermatologist tested and safe for sensitive eyes. One end of the product is for liner and shadow, the other end is a coordinating highlighter. The pigment itself is housed in the twist-off caps on either end. The liner is designed for tight-lining, using the tip, and is great for a softer, smoky line - if the side of the applicator is used. The highlighter end is rounded so it can be placed on the brow bone or in the inner eye corners, for a hint of light. The cap is pumped to reload the applicator. Mystikols is available in aquamarine, citrine, malachite, amethyst, dark topaz, lapis lazuli, and onyx. Call: +971 4 447 76 36
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Aromatherapy Associates
Dermalogica
The New Relax Eye Mask can be retailed to clients as the perfect night-time accessory to ensure a good night’s sleep. The lightly cushioned eye mask is subtly scented with natural lavender and the soft, velvet lining blocks out the light. It comes with adjustable straps and is designed in collaboration with Holistic Silk, a manufacturer of internationally renowned therapeutic for therapeutic relaxation accessories. Call +971 4 379 19 66
Researched and developed by The International Dermal Institute, Age Reversal Eye Complex now offers new protection against the multiple factors that contribute to visible signs of ageing to the eye area. The product is the latest addition to the brand’s Age Smart system. Designed to be applied after cleansing, the product fights the multiple signs of ageing, including fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and loss of contour. Key to the success of the new formula is retinoid, which contributes to the reversal of fine lines, wrinkles, sun damage, and darkened areas. An active blend of botanicals and peptides also helps decrease the permeability of under-eye capillaries, increase blood microcirculation, reduce congestion and improve lymphatic drainage. Addressing the key causes of key causes of shadows and “bags” under the eyes. Call: +971 4 447 76 36
Phytoceane Phytoceane skincare offers clients a triple line of attack against eye ageing. There is an Eye Contour treatment to tackle dark circles and puffiness, a Wrinkle Smoothing treatment for plumping wrinkles and fine lines and Aquasaphir Eye Cream, which treats all signs of ageing around the eye area, reducing fine lines, wrinkles, dark circles and puffiness. Call +971 4 345 46 46
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Comfort Zone The Eye Supreme Cream Gel offers soothing and hydrating eye care. Eye Supreme Cream Gel is a cool, moisturising and anti-stress cream gel that visibly reduces dark circles and puffiness around the eyes. The product is suitable for clients who wear contact lenses and who spend hours in front of the computer. It is also recommended for young skins as a preventive treatment. Call: +971 4 447 76 36
HD Brows Brow brand HD Brows has launched a 76-strong line of professional make-up products designed for salons and make-up artists. The new line of Make Up By HD Brows has been created to meet demand from the brand’s salon accounts according to founder Nilam Patel. The brand already had a capsule make-up collection, which includes brow paletttes and pencils. However, the new collection will feature updated eye and brow palettes, with added wax, new product formulations and new packaging, along with nine shades of both liquid and powder bases and a selection of brushes. There will also be three new eye-shadow palettes, each with five shades. Call + 971 50 841 42 89
Hi Brow The Hi Brow Growth & Conditioning Serum for lashes and brows is a daily treatment serum for thicker, fuller and healthier looking lashes and brows. Featuring a mascara wand applicator, it is easy to use and helps to groom brows into shape, keeping them in place, while the light, transparent serum coats the hairs from root to tip. Formulated with keratin and caffeine, the serum helps enhance and stimulate healthy hair growth. With regular use, brows and lashes will appear more conditioned, smoother and glossier. Clients can use it daily to create conditioned hair and to stimulate healthy growth and it can be applied before bed as an overnight beauty treatment. Call + 971 4 344 22 61 ext 114
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new products
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64 Beautytek Avita Plus The new machine, dubbed the “fat-away”, offers cavitation and radiofrequency in one beauty system. Beautytek Avita Plus is a two-in-one system offering both fat reduction for the body and double chin with stable cavitation and ultrasound, plus an anti-ageing treatment via radiofrequency using just one device. The product is safe, non invasive and pain-free. Call: +971 5 0131 27 79
Lipstick Queen
Elemis Elemis has introduced its new Jasmine and Rose Milk Bath, the sister to the award-winning Skin Nourishing Milk Bath. The product includes a skin-softening formula, rich in nourishing oils and softening flower milks, to offer an aromatic, sensorial bathing experience. With exotic aromatic oils of Egyptian jasmine and Turkish rose absolute, this cleansing milk bath has been formulated to promote a sense of serenity and calm. Nourishing argan oil and camellia seed oil protect and moisturise the skin, whilst flower milks of jasmine and white lotus leave skin feeling beautifully soft and delicately fragranced. Call: +971 4 324 54 14
When Poppy King struggled to find the perfect lipstick in her hometown of Melbourne, Australia, she made it her quest to create the ideal matte lipstick that would create instant glamour. Inspired by this passion, she launched Lipstick Queen – a brand dedicated to those obsessed with lipstick and anything to do with lips. The brand launched in Barneys, New York, and it has fast become a favourite with celebrities. In just under 10 years, Lipstick Queen has become a cult brand in the US, UK and Australia and now it’s here in the UAE. Call: +971 4 374 69 70
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training
professionalbeauty.ae
66 Superior customer service should be the aim of every business in our industry. But getting it right takes training, writes Sally Hewerdine
Reading needs
C
ustomer service is an area that most salon and spa
Learn the lingo
managers would like to see improvement in. In
It is important to remind staff that customers are not just
Professional Beauty’s last Insider study, management
buying a service, they are buying a feeling, and one really
across the GCC disclose that most new staff lacked
subtle way of delivering this great feeling is simply by
service skills when joining their business.
changing the terminology used in your spa or salon by staff.
These statistics are, perhaps, unsurprising in a nation where
Create a positive-only vocabulary and train staff to
our clients, and staff, consist of so many nationalities and
communicate it calmly. For example, consider: “I can put you
languages, resulting in challenges for businesses endeavoring
on a waiting list for availability this afternoon and book an
to deliver consistent service that will surpass expectations.
appointment for you tomorrow to ensure you’re not
So how do we tackle this? When training staff, “standard
disappointed” as opposed to the more abrupt, “we are fully
operating procedures” provide a great foundation to create
booked this afternoon, sorry”. Ensure that your customer
consistency in service, and are a good tool to use in training sessions. Consistency is important to ensure that a good general standard of service is given, especially when it comes
“CUSTOMERS ARE NOT JUST BUYING A SERVICE THEY ARE BUYING A FEELING”
to treatments, but protocol can be soulless and doesn’t always look after an individual’s needs.
service training involves lots of role-play. Split the team into
For every procedure you train staff in, make sure that there
two groups, a negative group and a positive group, and let
are examples of flexibility, alternatives or solutions to potential
them come up with displays of each. It will be fun,
requests, ensuring they receive enough information so that they
educational and thought provoking.
can always give the customer an appropriate response. To offer
Finally, one of the best ways of indirect training is leading
excellent customer service, staff should not only be able to follow
by example. There really is no better way for your team to
procedure, but should be able to read the customer’s needs.
learn than from the master. If you find yourself stuck in the
When it comes to training in customer service, many people
office, battling with budgets, stop for just a moment and
use words such as “intuition” or “emotional intelligence” but all
consider, when was the last time you actually played an
of this terminology is far too vague. We need something far
active role on the floor? Seeing you in action might just make
more tangible and useful to focus on.
the difference. PB
Focus, observe, listen
Sally’s top tips for good customer service:
To “read the needs” of the customer we must ensure that staff
• Create a positive language culture
can focus, observe and listen. Without focus, staff cannot
• Lead by example
succeed. If our bodies are present but our minds are absent, we
• Train staff to have a flexible approach
are destined to be average, and average is not acceptable in a service industry. A simple example is opening a door for a
• Focus, observe and listen
customer. If a customer is moving towards a door, a focused team member will observe that the customer is heading to the door and open it for the customer before they have reached it. Practical examples are very useful when training in customer service. Take your team to another department or serviceorientated business and use observation techniques, get the team to observe and critique. Food and Beverage outlets are
Sally Hewerdine is founder of SpotlightOnSpa&Wellness, which offers in-house, general and bespoke customer service workshops. For more information email: info@spotlightonspa-wellness.com
perfect for this type of technique.
If you would like to acquire the tools for succesful service training please contact Sally, email: info@spotlightonspa-wellness.com
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META THERAPY THE LATEST INNOVATION IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY
• Skin rejuvenation • Skin improvement • Hydration • Restoration • Skin Pigment Equalizer • Stem Cell Skin Reactivation
BEFORE
AFTER
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money MATTERS Reviewing the profit and loss statement may not be the most inspiring part of a spa manager’s role, but it is a crucial one. Helen Merchant helps us get to grips with finance
“In this region, many spa managers inherit overwhelming properties or projects without the necessary business acumen to grow, develop and maximise profitability”
I
t is vital that spa managers understand finance for a plethora of reasons. Many spa managers come from a therapy background and therefore have little experience of interpreting financial data. This means they can overlook gaps or opportunities, fail to manage costs, drive efficiency or maximise profitability effectively. In essence, a lack of financial know-how can mean spa managers fail to make the spa a cost-efficient department. I am currently delivering a “Finance for Spa Managers” training course in Dubai. The course provides a foundation for spa mangers, and assistant spa managers, providing a greater understanding of all the financial elements needed to manage and develop successful and profitable spa operations. It aims to build confidence and the ability to implement a business model that is easy to understand and deliver. It’s about giving people the tools to grow and breaking down barriers so that they are no longer afraid of some of the jargon surrounding finance such as “revenue management” and “strategic revenue development”. In this region, many spa managers inherit overwhelming properties or projects but may have not yet gained the necessary business acumen to grow, develop and maximise profitability.
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HEALTHY AND GLAMOROUS HAIR USING NATURAL PRODUCTS
Leonor Greyl uses only the highest quality natural ingredients to create specific luxury
hair care products. Because hair beauty deserves a spa, Leonor Greyl also offers tailormade treatments. A unique philosophy that combines innovation, high performance and sensory experience for exceptional results. Leonor Greyl, the ideal partner for your spa. For Middle East enquiries, please contact +971 4 332 90 19 ext. 244 or email a.albu@creation-me.com
business insight
professionalbeauty.ae
70 Creative types might find this difficult, but the finance team deals in facts and figures. Explain your ideas in financial terms and let the finance people help you forecast figures. Don’t be afraid to ask for assistance or an explanation, they are there to help. You wouldn’t expect a finance director to be able to plan a treatment menu and they shouldn’t expect you to be a financial wizard. Keep in mind that the finance director needs you to be financially successful and to manage a thriving department in order for the business to succeed. You are part of a team.
In order to succeed and evolve from an excellent therapist into a dynamic spa manager, you need to identify your strengths and weaknesses then build an appropriate personal development programme. Support can be found from an external spa business Consult the experts expert, or mentor, with both spa operations and business So how does a spa consultant fit into the picture? The right development experience and through interaction with other spa consultant can impact on efficiency by advising on spa professionals. These collaborations could help you costs, management, staffing, training, business planning further your understanding of the challenges faced locally and strategic development. It is, however, imperative that and internationally. you choose the most appropriate person for your business. For a business to be successful there must be Research the consultant’s area of speciality. For example, departmental cohesion. It is essential that the many consultants specialise in creative development continued financial development of the spa but you may already be creative but need help manger is supported by the finance with project management and strategy. “In order to department, making it specific to the Ensure you find someone with the skillset succeed and evolve corporate needs of the business. to meet your needs. Once you are clear from an excellent I have met many spa managers on what you want to achieve from therapist into a dynamic who can be intimidated by the employing a consultant, ask lots of spa manager, you need to thought of reporting to the financial questions when meeting potential identify your strengths and department. These barriers must be candidates and review their previous weaknesses then build an demolished. projects. After you have selected appropriate personal Don’t be scared of your finance someone, request a clear schedule of development director! They are very important works and set deliverables. programme” people in any business, especially within Follow these tips and you will soon make our industry, whether independent or within the transition from a creative, passionate a larger hotel operation, but they are human like therapist to a dynamic spa manager. PB you and me. The finance team does not necessarily understand the complexities of the spa operation; they measure figures related to performance – so you can teach them something. Educate the finance team on the spa and how we generate revenue.
Merchant’s top finance tips for spa managers: • Understand what occupancy is • Understand and continually review operating costs • Create a deliverable business plan • Identify opportunities • Formulate cost-effective upgrades • Don’t be scared of your finance director
Helen Merchant is owner of International Spa Consultants, which advises clients in all aspects of spa business. She is currently conducting the Finance for Spa Managers training course for the Product House in Dubai.
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calendar
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Diary dates APRIL 8 -10 DUBAI DERMA Dubai, UAE The Dubai World Dermatology and Laser Conference and Exhibition – Dubai Derma – is held annually at the Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre. It is dedicated to practitioners, specialists, manufacturers and distributors in the field of dermatology, skincare and laser. It showcases the best practices in dermatology science and the latest technology in skincare through an exhibition, lectures, courses and workshops. www.dubaiderma.com APRIL 13-14 NATURAL AND ORGANIC PRODUCTS EUROPE Olympia, London, UK A trade exhibition focusing on natural and organic beauty and spa products. Boost your sales, build brand awareness and make sure your products are seen by the people who can really make a difference to your business. www.naturalproducts.co.uk
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MAY 7-10 SPATEC EUROPE Rhodes, Greece Held at the Sheraton Rhodes Resort, the event will bring together European spa operators from leading medium-to-large hotel resort, destination, athletic, medical and day spas to meet with key leading domestic and international suppliers. Visitors will participate in a series of one-on-one meetings over two dedicated business days. www.spateceu.com/europe JUNE 12-14 BEAUTY EURASIA Turkey Eurasia’s largest beauty and cosmetics fair hosts exhibitors from all around the world. Visitors can view the latest in hair products, perfumery and fragrance, personal care products, cosmetics, dermocosmetic, spa and wellness, nail care, private labeling, packaging and machinery. www.beautyeurasia.com
Don’t Miss... MAY 27-29 BEAUTY WORLD MIDDLE EAST Dubai, UAE Now in its 18th year, Beauty World Middle East is currently the largest international trade fair for beauty products, hair, fragrances and wellbeing in the region. Attracting global exhibitors, the show offers trade visitors the opportunity to meet more than 1000 companies, face-to-face, over three days . The Spa and Salon Management Summit will be held on May 28, 29. This year speakers will share their insights and thoughts on opening, operating and managing a profitable business in a growing and changing industry. www.beautyworldme.com
SEND US YOUR DATES Send us details of any events you are planning via email to Ú news@professionalbeauty.ae
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classifed
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Call us on +971 56 352 2906 or email info@professionalbeauty.ae
salon supplies
training
The Product House
Register Now Massage & Facial Courses 2014 Beginners/Intermediate/Advanced CIBTAC endorsed 500 hours with course work
When: 22nd July to 12th August For registration & info contact: Meara Laine Dougherty Operations Manager | training6@theproducthouse.biz
FOR DETAILS CALL +971 50 652 9610 OR EMAIL info@st-tropezdubai.com
www.theproducthouse.biz Tel: +971 4 379 1966 Planters Alley, Warehouse 12, Street 4a, District 364, Al Manara Junction, Al Quoz, Dubai, UAE
dental services
training
The Product House
Register Now Finance Course for Spa Managers 2014
When: 11th & 12th July | 8:30 AM to 4:00 PM Corporate bookings upon request
For registration & info contact: Sally Bull Marketing Manager | training@theproducthouse.biz
www.theproducthouse.biz Tel: +971 4 379 1966 Planters Alley, Warehouse 12, Street 4a, District 364, Al Manara Junction, Al Quoz, Dubai, UAE
Professional Beauty GCC April 2014
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