AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS
Incorporating
NAIL FILE
ALL HANDS ON DECK Multifunctional skincare products
SECRETS FROM THE DEPTHS
Make-up tips for underwater photoshoots
Bullseye! Setting individual sales goals for your team
April 2022 | probeauty.co.za April 2022 | probeauty.co.za
CONTENTS
IN THIS ISSUE Features
Regulars 7
Industry news
Local and international news
34
Crowning glory Focus on hair
40
In the market
Latest product launches
Aesthetic Medicine 36
It’s all about the base
Strengthening the epidermal barrier
38
Product Focus
Building the barrier
30
Big Buzz Business Conference – Cape Town
Exhibiting brands & conference programme
Business
32
The worker bees
13
Multifunctional skincare
Ask the Experts
Setting up an online store How to deal with inebriated staff
17
Cool runnings in the digital age
Selecting software for your salon
18
Goal setting and individual targets
Ramping up retail sales
20
How to deal with your client’s body dysmorphia A sensitive touch
22
Talking to… Alison Yammin MSD COO
28
10 rules for choosing salon furniture Outfitting you business
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Make-up 26
Beauty below the waves Make-up tips for underwater photoshoots
Nails 41
NailFile Issue 50
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WELCOME NAIL FILE
ALL HANDS ON DECK Multifunctional skincare products
SECRETS FROM THE DEPTHS
Make-up tips for underwater photoshoots
Photo by Jonaorle from Pexels
A few days before this issue of the magazine was published, the Professional Beauty team took great delight in being able to host its first event for 2022 – the Big Buzz Business Conference at the Bryanston Country Club in Johannesburg. This comprised of two separate conference streams – Beauty Business and Aesthetic Medicine – as well as a table top exhibition of some leading brands in the skincare, nails, aesthetics, hair and payment system sectors. Both conference sessions were extremely well attended and there was a steady stream of visitors to the exhibition. All in all, a very successful endeavour. There are several more Big Buzz Business Concerence events scheduled for this year – the next one is in Cape Town on 25 April. So, if you’re in the area on the day, don’t miss out. As every salon or spa owner will know, at least 30% of your total turnover should come from retail sales. And yet, most therapists are not comfortable playing the role of a salesperson, while others actually thrive in it. That’s why it’s important to set individual sales targets for your team, as our beauty business expert reveals in this issue.
Publisher Mark Moloney mark@probeauty.co.za Managing Director Yolanda Knott 011 781 5970 yolanda@probeauty.co.za Commercial Director Philip Woods 084 759 2024 phil@probeauty.co.za Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 083 411 8512 joanna@probeauty.co.za Marketing Manager Stacey Platt stacey@tetradeevents.com Sales Executive Marike O’Reilly 083 631 4907 marike@professionalbeauty.org.za Sales Consultant Charlene Dickson 079 116 3262 charlene@professionalbeauty.org.za
Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
Operations Executive Obey Dube obey@probeauty.co.za Design Saveer Sugreem
Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970
@probeautyexpo
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@PROBEAUTYSA
@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA
The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com, www. pixabay.com and www.unsplash.com
We are BACI{! Exciting news for all industry professionals Diarise these dates for 2022 -We are coming to a venue near you. Events that give you education, networking and a chance to meet suppliers face to face
25 April 2022 The BIG Buzz Business Conference and Expo
The Lagoon Beach Hotel, Cape Town 16 May 2022 The BIG Buzz Business Conference and Expo
llanga Estate, Bloemfontein 13 June 2022 The BIG Buzz Business Conference and Expo
Durban, Coastlands Hotel, Umhlanga
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28-29 August 2022 Professional Beauty & Salon International Expo
Gallagher Convention Centre 1 7 October 2022
The BIG Buzz Business Conference and Expo
The Boardwalk, Gqeberha (formerly Port Elizabeth)
� More details to be announced soon
INDUSTRY NEWS
Professional Beauty hosts first Big Buzz Business Conference in JHB The first event on Professional Beauty’s 2022 calendar – the Big Buzz Business Conference at the Bryanston Country Club – took place on 28 March and saw both the Beauty and Aesthetic Medicine Conferences sold out, with a steady flow of visitors to the table top exhibition. Feedback from the exhibitors was very positive. The team
at Spa & Salon Solutions described the event as ‘brilliant’. They continued: “We had many new clients and some out-of-towners from Parys, Botswana and Polokwane. We can’t wait for the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show at Gallagher Convention Centre in August.” Said Sue Vermeer of AMSCO / RefectoCil: “It was lovely to connect with clients face to face again. We made great new contacts and it was a wonderful way to educate clients about our new products.” Nicola Steenkamp or Best Lasers reports that her stand was very busy. “We had some good quality visitors and definite leads.” Bio Sculpture’s Allyson Viljoen commented: “It’s was great to connect with nail techs and show them the Bio Sculpture way. We received several training enquiries, which is what we were after.” Said Galia Motala of InLei: “This was our first show and the whole experience was wonderful.” Chanelle Avontuur of hair brand, IntrinsiCurly Me, added: “Everything at the show went well for us and it was encouraging to see that more and more beauty salons are thinking about incorporating hair services into their menus.” Jody Cameron of Pay for Now stated: “We were happy and super-chuffed with the event. There was lots of interest in our product.” My Abby Abyssinan’s Robyn Kramer commented: “The beauty industry is alive again! What an incredible day to share the energy and excitement.” Markus Bezuidenhout of Enozo Skincare added: “This was a great platform to start launching our brand.” “The event was like the name suggested – a big buzz,” concluded Karien Ceronio of pHformula. The next Professional Beauty Big Buzz Conference takes place in Cape Town on 25 April at The Lagoon Beach Hotel. For more information visit www.probeauty.co.za
Beauty brands need to embrace the collective good Market intelligence agency Mintel’s latest research reveals that consumers expect brands to have a real purpose and to use their power to help engender genuine social change for all. The exclusive consumer research carried out for the ‘Future Forward’ report shows that ‘not using harmful ingredients’ (48%) is still the top priority in terms of what consumers want from their beauty brands. However, consumers’ expectations are set to dramatically shift from the individual to the collective. As Mintel points out, focusing on the collective doesn’t just apply to individual brands, it applies to the industry as
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a whole. The greatest shift in vision that we will see in the next five years is one of collaboration. To achieve real change, brands must work together, not against each other. Mintel’s research further shows that consumers are increasingly looking for more ambitious commitments from companies and brands to protect the environment. Additionally, consumers want businesses to be honest with them about their business practices (29%) and to pay their employees fairly (21%). Meanwhile, 15% of consumers now also want to see brands be more inclusive by designing products for people from all backgrounds and abilities.
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INDUSTRY NEWS Hines & Harley opens 2nd salon
Belgin Aksoy
Global Wellness Day wants people to #ThinkMagenta This year Global Wellness Day (GWD), which is celebrated annually by 350 million people around the world, is scheduled for Saturday, June 11. Says GWD founder, Belgin Aksoy: “#ThinkMagenta is an idea that rises amidst the negativity in the world – a reminder with a positive effect on life. This year, GWD Ambassadors, key supporters and volunteers have vowed to work together to change people’s lives in a positive way and to add colour to their thoughts.” Founded in 2012, GWD is an entirely not-for-profit wellness movement that is celebrated on the second Saturday of every June in tens of thousands of locations around the world. All participatory wellness activities that take place on GWD are completely complimentary. In 2022 GWD will incorporate the theme by inviting people to #ThinkMagenta, recommending simple but effective affirmations, reminding people that living well begins in the mind. When you know where to look, there is a good side to even the toughest days. GWD wants to spread the #ThinkMagenta philosophy within communities and beyond. “This year’s GWD theme is not about being optimistic, it is about being realistic,” continues Aksoy. “Things happen in our lives and we have the choice to call them good or bad things. Sometimes difficulties, failures or illnesses become the greatest teachers. No matter what is happening we can always find a way to choose joy.” She explains that #ThinkMagenta is simple to do whether at home, in the office or outside. It all starts with three extremely easy steps – stop, breathe and smile. In stressful, anxious, tense and negative moments, #ThinkMagenta provides a very simple way to disperse the dark clouds. Stop what you are doing and calm down. Take a deep breath and exhale; even one breath is enough. Afterwards, immediately smile – smile in spite of everything.
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A four-time winner of the Professional Beauty Award for Male Salon of the Year, Hines & Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge has opened its 2nd store, in the Alberante area of Alberton. Founder Jared Hines, himself an award-winner in the Best Salon Manager category, opened the original Hines & Harley in Johannesburg’s Parktown North in 2015. Like the Johannesburg salon, the Alberton branch is situated within a free-standing house and was designed as a continuation of the Hines & Harley ‘old school gentlemanly’ look and feel. Says Hines: “We chose this site as we have partnered with a doctor in order to offer more medial aesthetic treatments for our clients, such as Tixel Laser and medical peels.” The new salon was originally slated to open in 2019 but the Covid-19 pandemic delayed the process. After experiencing a few further delays with the construction work, it only took two months to get up and running. Because it is smaller than the Johannesburg branch, the new salon has just two staff members, Bianca Shultz and Innocent Sibiza. Shultz has over 12 years of experience in the spa industry and is the salon manager. Hines reports that since opening on 1 March this year, business has been good. “We are constantly getting bookings from new clients weekly and those clients are becoming regulars,” he says.
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INDUSTRY NEWS Rising beauty consciousness drives growth in dermatology devices market
Photo by Lucas Pezeta from Pexels
New research shows body image no longer solely a ‘women’s issue’ The ‘Toxic Muscularity Comes Clean’ trend identified in the 2022 Global Wellness Trends Report reveals that bulging biceps and rippling abs have had a negative ripple effect on male body image. Compiled for the Global Wellness Summit (GWS), this trend report maintains that the conspiracy of silence around the rising crises of muscle dysmorphia for men and boys is finally being addressed. Says the GWS report: “For a decade, we’ve seen so much forward progress around women’s body positivity in a culture that has long held such unrealistic standards for the female form: You can’t even say ‘weight loss’ now. What’s shocking is how a rising male body image crisis – fed by an endless stream of perfect, ripped Adonises in Hollywood, across social media, and in fitness culture – have remained in the closet. “Our 2022 trend, ‘Toxic Muscularity Comes Clean’, is about how the male equivalent of the conversation about unhealthily thin female models and Barbie dolls is finally happening. The problems of muscle dysmorphia that increasingly plague men and boys globally is starting to get addressed – even if the movement is still underdeveloped. “The trend presents a growing body of research that reveals that body image is no longer solely a ‘women’s issue’. For instance, a 2021 UK survey from a male suicide prevention charity and Instagram found that half of men aged 16-40 had struggled with their mental health because of how they feel about their bodies – and half pointed the finger at mainstream and social media. “’Toxic muscularity’ can be literally poisonous. Anabolic-androgenic steroid abuse is now hiding in plain sight in the improbable shape of actors, athletes, fitness influencers and action figures. The consequences, both mental and physical (sometimes fatal), will soon be hard to ignore. And steroids are merely the most notorious of an ever-expanding pharmacopeia of image- and performance-enhancing drugs (IPEDs) that have spread far, far beyond the fringes of ‘muscle culture’ and backstreet gyms – to high-end health clubs and even high schools.”
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The global dermatology devices market size is expected to reach $34.3 billion by 2030, registering a CAGR of 11.9% over the forecast period. This is according to a new report by Grand View Research, Inc., which notes the increasing cases of skin disorders (such as psoriasis, acne, eczema and skin lesions) around the world and the growing influence of social media. Treatment devices dominated the market in 2021 due to a rise in awareness regarding various aesthetic procedures and products, which led to increased adoption of non-surgical cosmetic procedures. Grand View Research reports that laser devices held a significant market share in 2021 due to their extensive usage in a variety of diseases and cosmetic treatments. Skin rejuvenation is expected to have a lucrative growth over the forecast period due to the growing number of geriatric people opting for such treatment procedures. Technological advancements in laser treatments are increasing the application scope of these devices, thus boosting the demand by physicians and patients alike.
Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels
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INDUSTRY NEWS
Will ethical sourcing become the new industry normal? Research company Ecovia Intelligence has found that the ethical sourcing of natural ingredients is proving predominant in the cosmetics industry. This trend is accompanied by a growing rate of sustainability schemes. For instance, Unilever and L’Oreal are now only sourcing sustainable palm oil. According to Ecovia, over 20 players in the market have joined the Action for Sustainable Derivatives, an industry-led collaboration that encourages responsible products and sourcing of palm oil derivatives. The research company believes that the increasing popularity of organic ingredients has been fueled by certification schemes such as COSMOS and Natrue. An article in Personal Care Magazine quotes the Ecovia team as saying: “The increasing use of natural raw materials puts pressure on cosmetic & ingredient firms to ethically source and take the certification route. “Some operators will opt for organic, fair trade, or sustainability schemes to prove they meet high environmental/social standards. Others will focus on traceability to show their raw materials are deforestation-free, GM-free, vegan, and/or halal.”
Photo by Louis Reed on Unsplash
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Image by photosforyou from Pixabay
Eleven years of continuous growth for organic beauty market The organic beauty and wellbeing market experienced a 15% growth in sales in 2021 and is now estimated to be worth a record £138.23 million So states the Soil Association Certification’s Organic Beauty & Wellbeing Market Report 2022, which reveals that consumers are spending £11 million on organic and natural beauty and wellbeing products every month. This increase marks the eleventh year of continuous growth for the organic beauty and wellbeing market. It has grown 30% since before the coronavirus pandemic, with sales rising by £31.6 million since 2019, as consumers’ concerns for the environment grow, the report found, with nearly half (48%) of consumers now more concerned about the environment than pre-pandemic. Thirty-percent of consumers said the environmental issue they are most worried about is a loss of biodiversity, while 36% said their biggest concern is chemicals entering the environment. Soil Association Certification business development director Clare McDermott maintains that the remarkable market growth is largely down to the significant interest in health and wellness, coupled with the greater visibility of environmental issues such as climate change in the media, which has propelled the organic sector into the mainstream as consumers seek to align their purchasing decision with their principles. She continues: “Consumers are increasingly informed and motivated about what is in their beauty products and we anticipate that these trends will continue into 2022 as the sector influences the wider beauty market and the availability of organic beauty and wellness products grows.” By certifying beauty and wellbeing products as organic, consumers can ensure they are avoiding greenwashed products. Forty-two-percent of consumers who did not trust brands to be honest about their environmental credentials said they would be more likely to believe a brand was sustainable if it has third party certification accrediting them. (Source: Professional Beauty UK)
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BUSINESS TIPS
Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business Photo by Andrea Piacquadio
How do I go about creating an online store for my salon? Globally, according to research from shopify.com, the beauty industry is growing. In 2020, it was valued at $483B and this grew to $511B in 2021. With an annual compounded growth rate of 4.75% worldwide, it’s predicted to exceed $716B by 2025. Driving this is the expansion of cosmetics marketing through digital channels. I can personally attest to this growth. Back in 2014, I started one of the very first online professional haircare stores in South Africa. The store, Hair Today Hair Tomorrow, was started with the aim of providing quality, professionalgrade products to the growing online shopping community. Fast-forward to 2022 where today, under the My Beauty Luv brand, I produce and sell a range of professional-grade beauty supplements that target the most sought-after areas of wellness: anti-ageing, longevity and vitality. I believe that if the pandemic has taught us anything, it’s that businesses, including those in the beauty industry, need to be online to survive. Far too many businesses became casualties of the crisis. While some spheres of the beauty world do need brick and mortar salons, stores and clinics to operate, they also need to have an online offering to be able to compete in the ‘new normal’. Here is some advice for those wanting to enter the world of e-commerce. • Find a niche. In an increasingly flooded market, business owners will need to figure out what sets them apart from their competitors. They will need to consider which beauty services or products they will provide and define their target market.
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• Build the brand. With the above in mind, the next step is to think about how the packaging, branding, voice and website design echo the brand and create an experience for customers. • Set up the site. There is a myriad of e-commerce platforms and tools available. Business owners should choose the one that best suits their needs and budget. Once this is done, they need to pay attention to their product descriptions. Not only do they enable customers to make informed purchases, they also help with SEO and driving traffic to the site. • Start marketing. Once an online presence has been established, how will people know about it if business owners don’t do some marketing? There are several tactics to choose from including public relations, Google Ads, partnering with an influencer and social media marketing. Try a few options and see which one works best for the brand. In conclusion, I believe that the longer businesses don’t embrace e-commerce, the harder it becomes to make the move online. Ultimately, their survival in the digital economy depends on it.
Toni Carroll is the founder of nutricosmetic brand My Beauty Luv. Key ingredients are sourced from reputable, industry leaders with claims backed by clinical trials and consumer proven results. Email toni@mybeautyluv.com
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BUSINESS TIPS
Photo by Moussa Idrissi from Pexels
How do I deal with an employee who appears to be intoxicated in the salon?
The regulations issued under the Occupational Health and Safety Act, No. 85 of 1993 (OHSA) provide that an employer may not allow any person to enter or remain at the workplace if they appear to be under the influence of alcohol or drugs, or to be in possession of or partake or offer other persons intoxicating alcohol or drugs. A professional driver or an operator of machinery may not have a concentration of alcohol in the blood of greater than 0.02 grams per 100ml (0.02%). It is recommended that employers should have clear guidelines on the issue of intoxication or drinking / taking drugs while on duty and that such guidelines (or disciplinary code) be shared with employees. Reasonable proof that an employee is drunk or likely to be under the influence of drugs can be established from eyewitness’ accounts of the employees’ behaviour and the way s/he looks and smells (bloodshot eyes, slurring words, unsteady on feet etc.) as well as from breathalyser or blood tests.
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While an employer cannot force an employee to take a breathalyser or blood test, should there be reasonable grounds to believe that the employee is in some way intoxicated, a refusal by the employee to be tested for such may lead to a negative inference being drawn against him or her. A policy must provide for the testing for alcohol and or drugs. The employee may consent to the conducting of breathalyser or blood test in his / her contract of employment. Although a breathalyser test cannot establish precisely how much alcohol an employee has consumed, it is a reliable indicator that there is alcohol present in the employee’s system.
Misconduct vs incapacity
An employer should distinguish between misconduct and incapacity. Misconduct relates to blameworthy intoxication at work, which is a disciplinary matter. Regular intoxication or absence from work linked to this may be a sign of drug and/or alcohol dependency, which may be treated as a form of incapacity. Intoxication whilst at work involves two types of misconduct (subject to the understanding that each workplace is different and may have different requirements): • Working whilst under the influence of alcohol or drugs; and/or • Consuming alcohol or drugs during working hours, without authorisation.
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BUSINESS TIPS
Image sourced from Pixabay
Working whilst under the influence of alcohol or drugs
This offence must take place during working hours, but not necessarily on the premises. If an employee consumes alcohol/ drugs off the premises, but while on call or standby, the offence may have been committed.
Consuming alcohol or drugs during working hours, without authorisation
The authority to consume alcohol/drugs during working hours can be explicit or implied. Employees who are invited by their employer to a drinks party in the midafternoon or, if consuming alcohol during working hours is common place and no disciplinary action is taken, then employees can assume that this is allowed. ‘Authorised use’ may also mean that an employee is taking medication containing alcohol or drugs on the advice of a doctor. However, an employee should discuss this with his or her employer and rather consider taking sick leave if the medication has affected his/her ability to do the work.
Determining the appropriate course of disciplinary action
The facts of the case and the nature of the problem influence the way in which it should be managed. An employer is also required to consider any applicable legislation, workplace code / guidelines /
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collective agreement that regulates conduct and incapacity matters at the workplace. It is necessary to distinguish between whether the employee is able/ unable to perform his/her tasks, the nature and responsibility of the employee’s job, as well as the dangers and risk of the employee’s working environment. The degree to which the employer encourages misuse of alcohol/ drugs is an important factor in determining an appropriate sanction for alcohol or drug abuse and rehabilitation must always be considered. In situations of gross misconduct which makes the continued employment relationship intolerable, it may be appropriate to consider dismissal, provided a fair procedure has been followed. This includes allowing the employee to be represented by a co-employee or shop steward and to have a fair opportunity to respond to the allegations made against him or her. After the hearing, the employer should inform the employee of the decision. If the employee is not satisfied with the outcome of the hearing, the employer should also inform the employee of his/her right refer the matter to the National Bargaining Council for Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Skincare, and Beauty Industry.
The above article was penned by the EOHCB (Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty). To make contact with the EOHCB go to www.eohcb.co.za DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your questions about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za
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BUSINESS TIPS
Cool runnings in the digital age
Software is essential to operating any successful business, especially beauty salons and spas. Here we look at what features you should be looking at in your software management system alon and spa software programmes usually include features such as appointment books, inventory control, financial reporting capabilities and payroll functions. Examples of additional features would be the capability to build up your client database and track clients’ treatment and retail spending patterns. “By choosing a cloud based software, you can harness the power of the internet to increase efficiency within your salon,” says Shani Leon, founder of booking app, My Appointment. “I often say to my clients it is like having an additional staff member who works 24/7 and never takes a sick day.” Here are a few points relating to using this functionality for increased efficiency and to streamline operations.
Whether you are a SMALL SALON without a dedicated front of house, OR A LARGE BUSINESS with a BUSY FRONT DESK always receiving and MANAGING CLIENTS, ROUTING BOOKINGS ONLINE is the MOST EFFICIENT WAY to MANAGE YOUR calendar. Bookings
Leon points out that My Appointment was the pioneer of online bookings for the beauty industry in South Africa. She continues: “I wouldn’t call this feature a ‘new’ update anymore, but it is still a necessity for customer service and streamlining the operations within the salon. Whether you are a small salon without a dedicated front of house, or a large business with a busy front desk always receiving and managing clients, routing bookings online is the most efficient way to manage your calendar.”
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Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels
Online voucher sales
While selling vouchers online can be a great way to generate more business, it also comes with logistical challenges and introduces the risk for voucher fraud. Says Leon: “A good software system provides the ability to sell vouchers online, which should be fully integrated into your point of sale. If this is in place, vouchers that are purchased online will instantly show up in your sales reports. Those online vouchers will also be available for redemption within the point of sale. Eliminating third party vendors streamlines this process.”
Product sales
Leon believes that because the last two years have been particularly difficult for the beauty industry, it has shone a light on the importance of retailing products online. “For many salons, this task is too mammoth to tackle, as it is expensive to set up and the logistics involved in running this type of operation would put a big strain on the existing operation. During lockdown, we fast tracked out e-commerce arm in order to give the salons an affordable option to sell online. This functionality is once again fully integrated into our point of sale. This system greatly streamlines the process and allows the salons to sell products online safely and efficiently. Our e-commerse platform always has a real time view of the stock on hand within the salon. All in store and online sales adjust stock values real-time allowing for safe, accurate and streamlined online trading.”
Real time reporting
An essential feature for salon software is access to up to date reporting in real time. This capability should be available from any location and will allow you to run your business more efficiently. It can streamline many processes in your business, including stock management, strategy changes and daily operations.
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BUSINESS TIPS
Goal setting
& the importance of individual
sales targets Every person working in your salon is crucial to growing the business, which is why it’s advisable to set personalised sales goals, writes beauty business expert Liz McKeon t’s important when learning how to manage a salon business to give your sales team personalised attention and individual targets to ensure they know what is expected of them and that they perform at their peak. Achieving sales volume goals is one of the biggest challenges that any beauty salon owner or manager faces. Many factors under or beyond your control can affect that final sales figure. One manageable factor is that the people in direct contact with your clients on a daily basis – your staff – are also your sales team. This is why good salon customer service is an important tool for increasing sales in beauty retail. It is wise to set an overall company goal, so you all know what you want to achieve collectively. Look at the big picture as it relates to that goal and itemise the plan and what needs to happen to reach the salon sales goal. It is critical to the plan to let each person know and understand where they fit into your business strategy.
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Photo by icon0 from Pexels
There are those beauty salon owners who ask every person on the team to meet the same sales goals. But, not everyone is capable of achieving at the same level. Some beauty therapists are better with certain services, others have a natural ability when it comes to retail, while others work best with a particular type of client, etc. Since you can’t ignore these variables, you should learn to master the art of flexibility. Clever salon managers work with each person on their team to discuss what is expected of them to keep their column profitable. Ideally, each employee should be evaluated based on her individual skills, experience, knowledge and training. A 10-minute individual meeting per person a week is what I advise.
Why individual sales goals are important
Begin the weekly meeting by thanking the individual for their effort and service to the salon. Review how they did with their sales last week (for both services and retail). Then ask what they might improve on next week. Hopefully, you
Not everyone is CAPABLE OF ACHIEVING AT the same level. SOME BEAUTY THERAPISTS are better with CERTAIN SERVICES, others have a NATURAL ABILITY when it COMES TO RETAIL, while others OPERATE BEST with a particular TYPE OF CLIENT. online @ probeauty.co.za
BUSINESS TIPS
will be pleasantly surprised by some of the creative answers that emerge. Use all of the information discussed to move forward with new goals for the coming week, which will be reviewed the week after. Let the team member be in control of their goals by asking what their income goal for the next week will be. Then, break that figure down into reasonable daily goals. Again, have them commit to their belief in that goal being achievable. Motivating your staff is instrumental to increasing sales in beauty retail. Before finalising the meeting, talk about promotions, events or special offers that you are running, so they can work them into their weekly sales plans. It is your role to help and to motivate, so always end the meeting by asking what you could provide along the lines of product knowledge and/or selling skills training to help them to continue to grow and achieve their weekly sales targets.
CLEVER SALON MANAGERS WORK with each person on THEIR TEAM to discuss what IS EXPECTED OF THEM to keep their COLUMN PROFITABLE. Ideally, EACH EMPLOYEE should be EVALUATED based on her INDIVIDUAL SKILLS, experience, KNOWLEDGE AND TRAINING. This type of personal involvement in setting and implementing achievable goals for your team members will work in your favour. You will get to understand what each person believes they can do. In turn, they will know what you hope they will achieve. The real win-win is when each person knows that you care enough to help them set individual personalised goals, they will then do their best to meet your expectations. It can also help to strengthen the core beauty business goals for the salon.
What makes a sales goal effective?
The term ‘effective’ is a tricky one, since different people have different motivations for setting or achieving goals. One person may set a sales goal to challenge themselves, while the manager may set sales goals to increase company revenue. Generally speaking, we can consider a salon goal’s effectiveness from four different perspectives.
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Photo by Polina Tankilevitch from Pexels
1. Motivation Does the goal sufficiently motivate your team members to improve? Improvement can unfold in a number of different ways, but the general vision is the same – you want them to increase some measurable aspect of their performance. If a goal serves to motivate better performance in any way, it can be deemed effective. 2. Potential for success Goals are also effective if they allow your team to get more connected with your salon’s vision for success. For most sales, this means generating more revenue through higher numbers of clients and improved client retention. Good sales goals push the entire team to the next level and don’t allow for complacency. 3. Capacity for analysis Effective sales goals also give you some way to measure your team’s performance. They serve as a goalpost for your progress. Your ability to achieve them should give you information about how your sales strategy is developing – and where it should lead your salon in the future. 4. Performance management This includes activities which ensure that goals are consistently being met in an effective and efficient manner. Performance management consists of a process whereby: (i) work is planned and expectations are met; (ii) performance of work is monitored; (iii) staff’s ability to perform is developed and enhanced; (iv) performance is rated or measured and the ratings summarised; and (v) top performance is rewarded. Despite the cost and time associated with setting, implementing and managing salon goals, the returns far exceed the costs. In time, the benefits will speak for themselves...in your bank balance.
Liz McKeon is an author, business coach, trainer and mentor, specialising in salon turnaround. Email liz@lizmckeon.com
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BUSINESS TIPS The rise in BODY DYSMORPHIA and the generally LOW SELF-CONFIDENCE WOMEN ARE EXPERIENCING has risen DRASTICALLY over the PAST FEW YEARS, not only amongst teens BUT ALSO ADULTS.
How to deal with your
your client’s body
dysmorphia
Industry professional Charlotte Holdsworth focuses on an area of running a salon or aesthetics practice that receives far too little attention Photo by Milada Vigerova on Unsplash
he turnaround time from a new procedure hitting the market to the ‘it’s gone out of fashion’ phase is as harmful to women’s mental health as fast fashion is to the environment. We are living in a time where we are told we must look a certain way, in a very particular timeframe, only to then change ourselves again when we are instructed to do so by society and the pressures of social media. In this fast paced world of beauty and aesthetics, how can you protect yourself as a practitioner, as well as your client’s mental health? The rise in body dysmorphia and the generally low self-confidence women are experiencing has risen drastically over the past few years, not only amongst teens but also adults. We are witnessing a huge boom in facial procedures and body slimming treatments that promise fast fat loss, but by not turning clients away when they are unsuitable for a treatment, not only do you risk damaging your reputation, but the effects of putting your client through a treatment that they do not need can have a serious impact on their mental health. Treating a client with poor
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mental health and very low self-confidence can have huge implications. Practitioners also need to be able to recognise a client who is suffering from body dysmorphia and offer an appropriate in-depth consultation. It is vital to acknowledge the importance of managing your duty of care and recognise when/ how to turn a potential client away.
The signs
As a practitioner, you are taught all you need to know when it comes to carrying out a treatment/ procedure safely and correctly, but there is nothing being taught about spotting the signs of someone suffering from body dysmorphia, or unhealthily low confidence, and what to do in this situation. Says psychologist Melanie John (MBACP): “Body dysmorphia can present in a variety of ways. Typical symptoms can be things like worrying or obsessing over a particular body part or facial feature; spending a lot of time on ‘covering flaws’ and experiencing anxiety if they are not able to do this; and spending a lot of time having cosmetic procedures. This could manifest, for example, in
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BUSINESS TIPS
the client having multiple procedures on one area and either looking in the mirror a lot, or avoiding mirrors altogether. “I would also be concerned if a client was experiencing consistent distress due to their appearance. Someone may not have BDD (Body Dysmorphic Disorder), but they could still be experiencing issues which are impacting their quality of life. Dialogue such as: ‘I really hate’, or ‘I can’t go out because…’ could indicate a bigger issue.” Personally, I have been to many consultations about a variety of treatments and been asked to fill out a medical history form and tick boxes to confirm my physical wellbeing, but I have never been asked how I feel about myself, or why a particular body area/ issue is bothering me. I have sometimes voiced some very strong and negative opinions about parts of my appearance, but this has always been overlooked and met instantly with responses like, ‘We can change this’, or ‘we can work on this’.
“Consider attaching a scale questionnaire, or a selection of questions, in which the client is asked to describe how they are feeling and what their desired outcome of the treatment is,” suggests John. “You can pose questions like: What am I hoping to achieve? How would I feel if the result does not match my expectation? What does this procedure mean to me?” I am aware that many surgeons use these types of questions and are a lot more cautious when treating their patients, however we must not underestimate the potential risks that aesthetic treatments may have, as well as the risk of causing damage to your client, not only physically but mentally. Patients undergoing surgery have usually put much thought into their decision and have heavily researched the procedure. Aesthetic treatments are, in some way, a lot riskier for a patient, due to how accessible and quick they are. That’s why we must ensure that duty of care is carried out to the best of our ability.
Considering the above makes me wonder why I’ve never been asked such questions in an aesthetic consultation, or had a practitioner really seek understanding of my Photo by Taylor Smith on Unsplash decision to have a treatment done. Do practitioners feel awkward or uncomfortable if they suggest the client seek help, and do they perhaps agree to offer the treatment just to avoid an uncomfortable situation?
Conducting an IN DEPTH CONSULTATION and UNDERSTANDING the CLIENT’S REASONS for wanting a certain procedure(s) will GIVE YOU AN OPPORTUNITY to decide if you want to GO AHEAD with THE CLIENT. When to take action
So, when should alarm bells ring for a practitioner in a consultation with a new client, and when should they decide to turn the client away? “I would consider turning a client away if they wanted something more ‘extreme’, or if the client appeared stressed/ distressed,” responds John. “Your client interaction is your biggest indicator. Conducting an in depth consultation and understanding the client’s reasons for wanting a certain procedure(s) will give you an opportunity to decide if you want to go ahead with the client.” This reflects my own personal experience as a practitioner’s client and the lack of the understanding the practitioner had for my reasons for wanting such treatments. So often I have booked a treatment online through a practitioner’s booking system or secretary, and it’s been a case of arriving, filling out a physical health form on an iPad and being directed to the practitioner’s room, with the treatment commencing very quickly thereafter.
Key questions
Are there any key questions that a practitioner should ask in their consultations which could be an indicator of someone’s mental well-being?
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How to approach a client with suspected poor mental health
John believes there are ways to express concern without putting someone in the ‘spotlight’, by using therapeuticstyle, open-ended questions that can be a softer way to approach a client. “You can say, for instance, something like: ‘It sounds/ looks like you have been feeling quite stressed before coming to this appointment. Do you think you might need more time before we go ahead?’ It’s never easy to express concern for someone, but there should be a duty of care to raise it,” she advises. With aesthetic treatments forever expanding and technology advancing at a super-quick speed, there must be a natural concern for potential patients and their well-being in a time where many of us feel pressured to have treatments that we may not quite want, or would not be beneficial to us physically and emotionally. Practitioners have a huge impact on this decision and in ensuring the patient is met with empathy and understanding.
Charlotte Holdsworth is the owner of the UK based LABËD and an advocate for a healthy mind within beauty. Email hello@ itscharlottetalking.com Psychologist Melanie John (MBACP) http:// www.melaniejohntherapy.com
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INTERVIEW
Talking to…
Alison Yammin Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to Marine Spa Distributors COO, Alison Yammin, about a long and varied career in the beauty industry and about winning business strategies
Alison Yammin
How did you find your way into the beauty industry?
I started in fashion design, creating wedding dresses and specialty occasion dresses. When the opportunity to work on a movie set arose provided I also had make-up skills, I did a make-up course and became intrigued by the beauty and wellness offering. So much so that I left my job and went back to study. I found myself in a student committee, which then grew into an interest in teaching that I formalised later in my career. The spectrum of opportunity available to all in the beauty industry is huge. Certain educations/qualifications are a good foundation to springboard a career into beauty. I have used mine as a great platform to advance in all areas and am a big proponent of continuous learning, something that is essential for longevity in any career.
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INTERVIEW In 2007 you joined MSD (Marine Spa Distributors) as brand manager for the Thalgo skincare line and in 2018, you were appointed COO for MSD. Please comment on your journey at MSD over the years.
Love what you do is a core component of a successful career. Working under the leadership of Debbie Merdjan makes the position in MSD rewarding and so enjoyable. Brands are so exciting with so many newcomers pushing the boundaries and creating exponential growth in the retail environment. Change is exciting for me. Beautiful marketing and creativity surrounds us. I like to make an impact at ground level and enjoy working directly with the therapists, empowering them to make confident sales and apply new protocols. Thalgo La Beaute Marine has a presence in over 90 countries worldwide. This network of colleagues has assisted me to stay abreast of international trends and business insights, which I enjoy sharing with our industry. I am committed to invest in myself (e.g. lessons, books and coaches), thus enabling me to compete in my space.
Alison Yammin and Apple co-founder Steve Wozniak
I like to MAKE AN IMPACT AT GROUND LEVEL and enjoy WORKING DIRECTLY WITH the THERAPISTS, EMPOWERING them to make CONFIDENT SALES and apply NEW PROTOCOLS. Debbie Merdjan and I enlisted to be mentored by world renowned international business coaches, being exposed to both transformational and accountability coaches. As my career moved forward, I have surrounded myself with wise advisors. The ability to see the big picture and planning is my strongpoint. I am resilient and always have a Plan B. Numbers and strategic vision are part of my DNA. Together with my diverse experience, being appointed as MSD COO seemed the right progression.
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Have you had any mentors in the industry?
Isa Carstens was my mentor and my friend. I was fortunate enough to have this most incredible lady in both my life and my career. Her authentic nature was truly inspirational and her unwavering business vision, motivating. It helped steer me along an uncluttered path.
A whole new FRESH BREED of ENTREPRENEUR has emerged, PLUS NEW HOTEL CHAINS are now PLAYING IN OUR SPACE. This is exciting AND IT PUSHES the industry’s thoughts ON THE WAY we do business in A NEW DIRECTION. What business awards have you won?
A pivotal moment for me was when I was invited to sit at Apple co-founder Steve Wozniak’s dinner table after been awarded the Think Big Business Award at a Mega Success event. Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak co-founded Apple in 1977, with Jobs the blazing sales visionary and Wozniak the shy genius executing his vision. My takeaway from that dinner conversation was around humility, and to push myself out of my comfort zone and take action to meet my personal and business goals. I am grateful to have received the Spa Ambassador Award by Les Nouvelles Esthetiques, enabling me to represent our wellness partners and to use the platform to inspire our youth in the beauty industry. Founder Member status of our National Health and Skincare Body was bestowed upon me after I lobbied at Government level to have an independent accreditation body to look after our industry. Although it was a little ahead of time, the confidence and recognition granted to our beauty community was rewarding.
You follow prominent business influencers, such as Richard Branson, Melinda Gates and Tony Robbins. Please comment.
British entrepreneur and business magnate, Sir Richard Branson, founded the Virgin Group in the 1970s, which today controls more than 400 companies. His story inspired me with his desire to become an entrepreneur at the age of 16, through a magazine called ‘Student’. His journey entailed vision, perseverance and a CAN DO attitude. I love the 4 Truths Branson learned on his road to success: Have faith in yourself; Believe that anything can be done; Live life to the full; and Never give up. Branson was knighted at Buckingham Palace for his work in retail, music and transport. I admire his taste for adventure, his ‘just do it’’ attitude, and his humanitarian work. Melinda Gates is an American philanthropist and former computer scientist and general manager at Microsoft. She has consistently been ranked as one of the world’s most powerful women by Forbes. Her experience of a maledominated workplace at Microsoft inspired her to
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INTERVIEW
encourage more women into the computing field. Bill Gates and Melinda had donated US$28 billion of their personal wealth by 2014 to the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation, the second largest charitable foundation in the world. Tony Robbins is an entrepreneur, #1 NY Times bestselling author, philanthropist and the nation’s top life & business strategist. He is a leader called upon by leaders and has worked with four US presidents, top entertainers, athletes and sports teams. Through his partnership with Feeding America, Robbins has provided over 600 million meals in the last six years and is on track to provide 1 billion meals by 2025.
It is often said that many salon owners are so focused on the beauty treatment aspect of running a salon that they do not pay enough attention to the business side of their salons. Would you agree with that?
We all seem to operate with passion first. Most small business owners wear many hats, leaving them quite thinly spread. Key to a sound business is hiring the right people. Without the owner developing and sharing a clear sense of their business’s vision, its values, its strategic goals and its delegation of responsibilities, the business will lack purpose and direction. Strategic and operational planning sustain long term growth of the business, viability of the business, and most importantly, relevance. Business owners develop their own definition of success as it is a subjective concept, thus confirming that one set of rules does not fit all. The roadblocks owners are faced with include economic factors, being under capitalised, lack of experience in addressing competition, trying to meet varying expectations (from staff, customers or market place), and efficient time management.
Alison Yammin with husband Leon in the Grand Canyon
WITHOUT THE OWNER DEVELOPING AND SHARING A CLEAR SENSE of their BUSINESS’S VISION, ITS VALUES, ITS STRATEGIC GOALS and its delegation of RESPONSIBILITIES, the business will LACK PURPOSE and direction. suppliers to operate profitably. Staff and stock are the business assets, as they create the revenue. Basic and advanced Excel knowledge is a powerful tool to assist with statistics and reporting, which keeps the owner’s finger on the pulse of the business. Formulae and filters can assist reverse viewing and forward projections. I would advise salon owners to invest in accounting and point of sale software, which enables you to generate invoices, track/ reconcile payments, manage cash flow, control inventory, manage pricing strategies and cost of goods, payroll and commissions, etc. CRM software can provide a wealth of benefits for a business, from customer retention to increased productivity and efficient time management. It is used to organise contacts, to automate key tasks, gather customer engagements/ touch points in a centralised place to improve customer experience and satisfaction. Customer relationship management (CRM) software is a nearessential tool for businesses, enabling consistent communication and synchronisation. Marketing is key to business success and owners miss allocating resources to this aspect of the business.
I believe that as part of your remit, you are involved in helping your spa clients up their profitability?
Alison Yammin in Las Vegas
In what business skills do you think South African spa/salon owners and managers are most lacking?
Wise utilisation of capital and cash flow. A business needs to start with a good financial base, but equally important, it will need a positive cash flow as the business grows and develops. It needs to have sufficient funds to pay employees and
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We introduced a Growth Project to assist our Thalgo stockists with a better understanding of their business environment to identify strategic opportunities and growth for new and existing customers, products and services. Furthermore, we teach them to maintain and manage their stock, how to use and interpret their data and statistics, and how to critically assess sales opportunities for treatments offered.
What exactly is The B.B.E.T.T.E.R system?
I created The B.B.E.T.T.E.R System as an added value offer, where we propose 5 steps to achieving the end goal for the spa, which is to get more footfall and be profitable. We
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INTERVIEW
streamline operations with the support of a flexible, intuitive and compliant enablement solution via: Build – Boost – Empower – Tools – Team – Expand – Return On Investment.
How have you adapted MSD to deal with the Covid economy?
Our strategy has been to implement aggressive marketing to optimise online shopping and social media presence to put the brand directly into the hands of the consumer. Alison Yammin in the Drakensberg
I AM SO GRATEFUL to have had LONGEVITY in THIS INDUSTRY, which over the years, has been VERY REWARDING, and I think that is A GREAT MESSAGE FOR WOMEN TO KNOW that they can enjoy a LONG AND SUCCESSFUL career in beauty. As a distributor of international brands, has Covid affected your supply and demand chain at all?
Our normal channel of distribution for Thalgo is mostly 5-star hotel and lifestyle properties. The travel bans affected hospitality negatively. We nurtured both large and smaller spas and salons, assisting them by chunking down their offer/s to manageable solutions within a smaller budget and a reduced, more focused menu, but being able to still have a full service offer and good brand representation of Thalgo. Importing of goods was delayed – but it really only created timing issues, which could be managed with good planning and stock investment. LPG endermologie™ France found themselves at the difficult side of the microchip supply shortage needed for their devices – causing increased costs to manufacture the devices and delays in production. This impacted on global sales.
Have you found that some of your clients have had to shut their salons or spas because of the Covid fallout? Hospitality certainly was very hard hit – but for many of our stockists, we guided them on how to provide mobile services, virtual consultations or creating online stores, or even piggy-backing on
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our shop-online to survive and thrive. Unfortunately, there were inevitably some businesses that sadly could not re-open. However, a whole new fresh breed of entrepreneur has emerged, plus new hotel chains are now playing in this space. This is exciting and it pushes the industry’s thoughts on the way we do business in a new direction.
What has been the biggest highlight of your career?
Having been in the beauty industry since 1982, I have had many experiences over the years – from lecturing at a higher education facility, to owning a salon, to being the SAAHSP education chairperson and vice-president of the association, to partnering with a plastic surgeon to develop a medi-aesthetic range, to manufacturing products, to heading international sales import and distribution, to creating opportunities for many women in Africa, and managing projects for the international market. I am so grateful to have had longevity in this industry, which over the years, has been very rewarding, and I think that is a great message for women to know that they can enjoy a long and successful career in beauty. This is provided they seize the opportunity, network and find a balance between family and work life, plus we must commit to always be learning and constantly evolving to be at the top of our game. These are important messages for me to share with colleagues and future colleagues in the beauty environment.
What would you say are the biggest challenges facing the beauty industry today?
Due to the informal structures of the wellness environment, financial support is difficult to access for many small businesses. Staff retention seems tough for spas and salons possibly due to the long hours, shifts and demand over the holiday/peak season. I recommend that business owners engage their staff, as disengaged staff focus only on getting a paycheck and advancing their own interests. It’s important to make employees care about the business’s vision. Reward their efforts for a job well done – this makes employees feel valued and helps to build a loyal team.
What is the single biggest lesson you have learnt during your career in beauty?
I believe one should stay true to oneself and I believe in old school values, in particular integrity. Those who have integrity are guided by a set of core principles that influence decisions and behaviours. I also value other principles – honesty, respect, personal responsibility, compassion and dependability (trust). These qualities are integrated into both my personal and work life. I have built trusting relationships and a strong network, as these are key to a long and successful career. It is important to align one’s personal and business goals as they feed into one another. I always dreamed of visiting the Seven Wonders of the World and achieved this goal a few years ago. So, I have been in the Amazon jungle and rowed in a canoe on the Amazon River, climbed Machu Picchu in Peru, hiked along the Great Wall of China, went in a dug-out along the edge of the Iguazu Falls in South America, helicoptered over the Grand Canyon, swam on the Great Barrier Reef and walked through the Taj Mahal.
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MAKE-UP
Beauty below the waves
A little focused on area of the professional make-up sector is that of underwater photography, as Jenine O’Reilly of BELLE Beauty writes nderwater photographers and videographers are very limited in South Africa and it’s therefore not an everyday service that people book for. Having said that, underwater photoshoots are currently proving very trendy for maternity and couple shoots. Although you do get specific brands of professional make-up that are specially formulated for underwater use, some underwater products are the same as waterproof make-up, while others differ in pigment, quality etc. Oil based make-up products work well for underwater shoots as they don’t mix with the water and will not streak or smudge that easily. I try to use products and brands that are environmentally friendly, hypoallergenic and cruelty free. There are so many products on the market these days. Choosing a safe brand for your clients is very important. Sea water and any other type of water that isn’t chlorinated or filtered will give a murky effect to the photos.
Photographer: Ilse Moore; Make-up: BELLE Beauty by Jenine
Kit essentials
As to what is in my waterproof make-up kit, one of the most important products is definitely a waterproof mascara. I love using eye shadows and shimmers that are very pigmented. Kryolan is one of my favourite brands to use for my underwater make-up. And then of course I need an amazing setting spray – at the moment I use Urban Decay All Nighter Liquid Foundation. I use Kryolan and Rimmel Provocalips for my lipsticks.
Prep
In terms of preparing the skin for underwater make-up, a moisturiser is very important as the water can be very drying on the skin. I prefer a lightweight formula. A primer, especially for the eyelids, is also important as the pigments and foundation need to stick and last for a long period of time underwater. Lip liner is a must, as this will create a pigmented and long lasting effect for the lipsticks you use. It also defines the lips for underwater photography and video. You can use any colour of eye shadow for underwater work, although very bright, pigmented eye shadow will show up more, whereas nudes and natural shades will disappear underwater.
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Photographer: Ilse Moore; Make-up: BELLE Beauty by Jenine
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MAKE-UP
False lashes can only be used in conjunction with a waterproof eyelash glue. I set my make-up looks with a setting spray for lasting results as powders can give a ‘pale look’ if used underwater. Once I have applied the make-up, I advise the client or model to not rub or touch the face at all. If there is anything that needs to be changed, always ask the make-up artist and don’t try fixing it yourself.
Removal
It’s obviously important to fully remove the underwater make-up without damaging the client’s skin. I use a make-up remover together with a cleansing face wash. An oil based make-up remover for removing waterproof make-up works best. A favorite of mine is the Garnier oil base micellar water, or Nanacoco make-up removing wipes.
Photographer: Ilse Moore; Make-up: BELLE Beauty by Jenine
Jenine O’Reilly is the owner of Belle Beauty Hair and Make-up Salon in Vanderbijlpark. She completed her BSC degree in Fashion Marketing & Designing in 2015 at the North West School of Design in Klerksdorp. O’Reilly has been working as a make-up artist for the past six years and has an absolute passion for bridal and glam make-up. She is also a part-time actress.
BUSINESS TIPS
PURCHASING A CHEAP PRODUCT ONLINE from the East MIGHT LEAD to you ending up with a NON-AUTHENTIC, POOR QUALITY PRODUCT from a supplier who MAY BE DUBIOUS. Buying cheap is likely to COST YOU MORE IN THE LONG RUN. 3. Keep yourself updated on latest trends and styles. This will help you make informed decisions. Photo by Atikah Akhtar on Unsplash
10 rules for choosing
salon furniture
Whether you are outfitting a salon or spa from scratch, or replacing or upgrading existing furniture, there are certain guidelines that you should follow, writes Joanna Sterkowicz 1. Have a clearly defined list of whatever furniture you need. This will prevent you from being distracted by items that may catch your eye and appear desirable, but which are, in fact, not absolutely necessary at the particular time you are buying.
2. Set a budget and stick to it. Always be in control of your spending and never compromise on quality. If you cannot afford absolutely everything on your list, don’t try and buy it all at once. Rather prioritise and keep the other items on your wish list. You can always purchase these at a later date when you have sufficient funds.
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4. Take the layout of your salon into account when choosing furniture. It’s always a good idea to ensure that the furniture you have earmarked is the appropriate size for the space for which it is intended. And also consider whether the furniture will go with your décor. 5. When buying treatment beds or chairs, always try them out yourself. Furniture must be comfortable for your clients. 6. Select rugged furniture that will be able to withstand constant use without deteriorating. You don’t want to end up with furniture that starts collapsing after a few uses. 7. Choose a reputable supplier. There are several established, legitimate salon and spa suppliers in South Africa with proven track records. Always research your chosen supplier. Word of mouth referrals about service and back-up support are very useful in this regard, as are user reviews and ratings. A reputable supplier will ensure that the item/s you order will be delivered within the timeframe you specify and they should conduct some sort of quality check before you take delivery. Also important is that the supplier offers a solid back-up service. 8. Buy only high quality items from reputable brands. While it’s obviously natural to want something for the lowest price, purchasing a cheap product online from the East might lead to you ending up with a non-authentic, poor quality product from a supplier who may be dubious. Buying cheap is likely to cost you more in the long run. 9. Make sure that whatever item you purchase has a warranty. A warranty ensures you of the product’s quality and underscores that the supplier has confidence in the product. The repair and/ or the replacing of faulty parts/ products should be clearly specified in the warranty. 10. Opt to buy furniture that is pre-assembled. This will avoid the problem of furniture arriving in pieces and you having to assemble it. Lastly, don’t forget to regularly sanitise and sterilise your furniture between clients, regardless of whether we are in a pandemic or not. Client safety is paramount.
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SHOW PREVIEW
The Big Buzz Business Conference goes to Cape Town Building upon the success of Professional Beauty’s recent Big Buzz Business Conference in Johannesburg, the event will move to Cape Town on 25 April, taking place at The Lagoon Beach Hotel in Milnerton. Here are some of the exhibitors who will participate in the table top exhibition at the event Aesthetic Laser Academy • www.laseracademy.co.za • info@laseracademy.co.za Aesthetic Laser Academy is dedicated to providing you with comprehensive, hands on practical and theoretical Advanced Aesthetic Laser training. Our Aesthetic Laser Courses are ideal to increase the skills of Students, Beauty Therapists, Salon Owners and Entrepreneurs.
Bio Sculpture • www.biosculpture.com • online@biosculpture.com Our purpose is to provide quality products and professional training, empowering nail technicians to offer healthy and fashionable nail care systems, guided by an ethical business approach.
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pHformula • www.phformula.africa Developed as a dermatological skin resurfacing system, pHformula successfully treats skin disorders like ageing, hyperpigmentation, acne and chronic redness. With continuous scientific based research, the focus always remains on the development of innovative skin resurfacing treatments. All new treatment developments are based on the latest technology in regenerative medicine and are unlike anything else that’s been introduced to the professional skincare market, giving the ideal opportunity to the skin care professional in achieving the best possible results.
The Spa Consultants
Best Lasers • www.bestlasers.co.za • reception@bestlasers.co.za Best Lasers is the sole Sub-Saharan Africa distributor for Alma Lasers International, which is a global developer, manufacturer and provider of laser, light-based, radiofrequency and ultrasound devices for aesthetic and medical applications.
diligence in finding the right product for your naturally beautiful hair. Look no further as we introduce the Rëzo brand in Africa. Visit our stand for more information and unbelievable specials!
Hitech Lasers • www.hitechlasers.co.za • hitech@hitechlasers.co.za Hitech Lasers, founded in 1974 and driven by a passion to improve the delivery of healthcare, has become South Africa’s leading expert in providing systems that are innovative, ground-breaking, award-winning, excellent and outstanding. We are proud of our unrivalled reputation for quality, integrity, service and reliability.
NaturallyE • www.naturallye.co.za • siobhan@naturallye.co.za At NaturallyE, we take a stand and correct those who view our naturally curly hair as unprofessional and messy. We have done our due
• www.thespaconsultants.co.za • info@thespaconsultants.co.za The Spa Consultants will be SHOWCASING the very first RF Needling Machine in SA!!! Come and experience a treatment for FREE valued at R2,000 and see for yourself the results of this latest technology using 81 gold plated pins to needle the skin whilst delivering Radiofrequency energy into the deeper layers of the skin for an instant tightening and lifting effect. So now you have the combination of collagen boosting and non-surgical skin tightening. If you want to pre-book your treatment as we have limited spaces, please contact Micaela on 011 312 7840.
Yoco • www.yoco.co.za • sibahle@yoco.com Yoco is an African technology company. We create opportunities for entrepreneurs to get paid and be more successful. Every day we break down barriers and create access so that more businesses can participate in the economy and thrive.
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CONFERENCE NEWS
The BIG Buzz Business Conference A must attend conference, packed full of information that can help you to grow your business, whether a beauty salon, hair salon or spa. Great speakers, great topics, a great opportunity
Monday 25th April, The Lagoon Beach Hotel, Cape Town
09.00: Registration (coffee and pastries)
advice on the do’s and don’ts of managing staff.
09.30: How big brands work in marketing and promotion – Meara Laine Meara has worked extensively in the Middle East helping big brands to promote their products in the beauty sector. She will be showing you how you can adapt these big ideas to the promotion of your business.
11.15: Coffee break and meet with the exhibitors
10.00: Social media – get the lowdown on this ever changing marketing medium – Speaker TBC Understanding how social media works, the pitfalls in social media marketing, and how to use an influencer. This session will offer practical advice that will help dispel some of the myths regarding social media. 10.45: Staff – how to manage, retain and recruit your team Miranda Forrester Staff are key to any successful business and Miranda will be giving you awesome practical
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11.45: Stay ahead of trends and create a niche experience for clients – Speaker TBC An informative session aimed at keeping you and your business at the forefront of your clients’ minds. 12.15: Lunch and meet with the exhibitors 13.30: Get motivated and get your business going – Kim Gardner Running a business can be a lonely journey; this session will help all those with their own business, or wanting to start out on their own, to get going and grow a successful business.
beauty sector and Charne is a passionate advocate for this cause. 14.30: Coffee break with the exhibitors 15.00: The 7 habits of highly effective salon and spa operators – Marisa Dimitriadis Based on the book by Steven Covey, Marisa adapts the principles of the 7 habits to reflect our industry. These habits could help you get the most out of your personal growth and that of your business. 15.45: Return to exhibitor area – Prize draw winner announced
14.00: Keeping it green – Charne Le Roux We should all be caring more about the planet and its sustainability. There are many ways that we can all help within the
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SKINCARE
The Worker Bees
Photo by cottonbro from Pexels
The increasing demand for multipurpose skincare is undeniable, especially in these cash-strapped times when consumers are looking for more bang for their buck. Here we put the focus on products that address more than one skin issue at time Probiotic power
The Esse Probiotic Serum is the world’s first live probiotic serum. It contains more than 1 billion living probiotic cells per ml. Independent testing shows that it increases skin firmness and elasticity. 50 million live probiotics per drop are activated by the moisture on your skin when applied. These living cells complement your natural microbial diversity and help to slow the ageing process. In addition, the probiotics equip the skin to rectify imbalances and strengthen barrier function for a firmer, fuller, more resilient skin. Independent testing has proven that this product increases skin firmness by 16% in 28 days, and skin elasticity with 9% in 28 days, with positive results being shown in 100% of test subjects. Improved barrier function leads to a reduction in inflammation, which is the underlying cause for various skin conditions like eczema, acne, etc.
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Clever solution
The Six Sixth Intelligence is an advanced and powerful skincare solution protecting your DNA from the damaging effects of the harsh environment. Sixth Intelligence provides a universal defense against wrinkles, dryness, uneven skin tone and a dull complexion and may even be used as a night cream, to nourish your skin whilst you sleep. This luxurious 24-hour cream features the most advanced anti-ageing formulation with the intelligence to find the fault in your skin and fix it. Venuceaneis is an incredible active ingredient, derived from a plant living in the deepest part of the ocean, which is activated through heat when applied to the skin.
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SKINCARE Resurfacing
Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA points out that many of the brand’s treatment products are multifunctional. “Being so, they come to the rescue of the consumer so they can use their minimal disposable income to the best advantage. If one was to choose just one product on a budget that provides so many benefits than the one to go for is the RégimA Techno-5 Resurfacer. This cream and serum combines five new technologies and is suitable for all age groups, all skin types, male or female and problematic conditions such as acne, pigmentation, solar keratoses, skin ageing, dry, dehydrated skins and razor rash.” Utilising enzymatic extracts from pineapple and papaya, the product smooths and resurfaces the skin. These enzymes gently dissolve the interstitial cell cement between the corneocytes in the stratum corneum and hence ‘resurface’ the skin. These extracts contain the following nutrients exhibiting further benefits: vitamins A, B and C; micronutrients (magnesium, manganese, iron, potassium, calcium, phosphorous and sulphur); biomimetic (imitating nature) peeling; black tea extract; and tropical fruit compound.
Proprietary combo
From iS Clinical, the GeneXC Serum is a revolutionary formula featuring the brand’s proprietary combination of Extremozymes, which are clinically proven to enhance the appearance of skin elasticity and firmness, provide skin hydration as well as improve overall brightening. GeneXC Serum contains 20% of iS Clinical’s exclusive vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid), which is formulated with a powerful combination of botanically sourced enzymes, antioxidants and fruit acids sourced from both land and sea. These cutting-edge ingredients work synergistically to provide the most scientifically advanced, clinically proven benefits; improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and evening the complexion, resulting in a more youthful, glowing appearance.
Leave on
The Sknlogic Multi Active Lotion, an at-home leave on skin peel that optimises skin rejuvenation, treats hyperpigmentation, dehydration and problematic skin. Its active ingredients include a high concentration of Alpha and Beta Hydroxy acids (14%) in a lightweight emulsion as an intensive treatment for increased cell turnover to restore skin suppleness, clarity and texture. This product does not contain parabens, sulphates, synthetic fragrance and synthetic colourants, lanolin derivatives, mineral oil or MIT’s. Ingredients include glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, vitamins C and E, pineapple extract, panthenol, glycerin and phyto compound blend.
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In the neck
NeoStrata Skin Active Triple Firming Neck Cream is an intensive formula for a very specific concern. It is an innovative and advanced anti-ageing firming neck cream in the Skin Active range that helps to visibly reduce signs of ageing in the neck and delicate décolletage area. While it is not suitable for those with sensitive or rosacea-prone skins, it is ideal for dehydrated, sun-damaged skins. Also from NeoStrata, the Skin Active Intensive Eye Therapy is an advanced, comprehensive eye cream formulated to prevent and correct all visible signs of ageing, as in puffiness, crow’s feet, fine lines and wrinkles. It is recommended for mature, sun-damaged skin but also for those with early signs of ageing.
Concentrate
DermaFix B3 Boost is a niacinamide concentrate that works to calm redness and soothe inflammation for improved skin barrier health. It protects against environmental damage and furthermore assists to brighten the complexion, whilst regulating oil balance within the skin. This product is especially beneficial alongside dry, sensitive, acne and hyperpigmentation skin concerns. Formulated with mandelic AHA derived from bitter almonds, the DermaFix DermaBright, MD Mandelic Cleanser and MD Mandelic Toner assist to increase cellular turnover, encouraging the removal of redundant skin cells to reveal a brighter, clearer looking skin. As skin rejuvenation is promoted, skin texture is improved, collagen and elastin production is upregulated, skin congestion is reduced and hyperpigmentation is attenuated. Along with these benefits, mandelic AHA furthermore provides anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties, and is mild enough to use across a variety of skin concerns including acne, hyperpigmentation and ageing.
Body focus
The Spalicious Collagen Boosting Body Therapy is able to perform a number of functions all at once. It nourishes and hydrates the skin, stimulates lipolysis, activates microcirculation and firms and tightens the skin. Furthermore, it reduces inflammation, improves the texture of the skin and improves skin elasticity. This deliciously creamy and luxuriously thick formula is packed with nine active ingredients to firm, tighten, repair and moisturise the skin. Rich in vitamins, minerals and omega 3, 6, 9, all with a ylang ylang scent.
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HAIR NEWS
Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front
How did the SAG Awards measure up in the hair stakes? The 28th annual SAG (Screen Actors Guild) Awards took place recently in Santa Monica, California, and a number of striking hairdos were evident on the red carpet. Kerry Washington was all about classic Hollywood glamour, with long, structured curls flowing down one side of her face from the deepest of side partings, a la the iconic 1940s screen siren, Veronica Lake. Very similar looks were spotted on Alexandra Daddario, Reese Witherspoon and Cate Blanchett. The slicked back style of hair was very much in evidence on the night. British actress Catriona Balfe had her dark hair scraped entirely off her face in a somewhat severe look. Selena Gomez did the same, only with a centre parting, while Hailee Steinfeld opted for a side-parted version but with a gelled strand of hair running across her forehead to add an edgy element to the look. Steinfeld’s hair design was by celebrity stylist Gregory Russell. Greta Lee had a chin length, fringeless, middle-parted A-line bob. Also going for a bob, but this time medium length and blunt-cut, was Vanessa Hudgens. Rosario Dawson wore a twisted and twirled top knot right at the crown of her head, with Laverne Cox rocking a half updo, where the top part was in a fountain like, golden blonde ponytail but with mahogany roots. Lady Gaga’s platinum blonde locks cascaded past her shoulders in gentle waves. Jennifer Hudson’s hairdo was one of the most flattering and simple of the night – just lightly teased for some lift at the top and then pulled back from her face and left to cascade loosely down her back. Jessica Chastain’s trademark long red hair was severely tucked behind the ears, while the legendary Helen Mirror rocked an almost tiara-like pale
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Hoyeon Jung (Instagram @sagawards)
Lady Gaga (Instagram @sagawards)
Laverne Cox (Instagram @lavernecox)
pink padded headband over pulled back silver hair. Salma Hayek had a high, textured and somewhat messy ponytail. Jada Pinkett Smith sported a barely there buzz cut, which showed off her exceptional bone structure and features. Kirsten Dunst’s lob-length blonde hair was all one length and gently curled at the ends, for a flatteringly soft look. The star of the Korean TV series sensation ‘Squid Game’, Hoyeon Jung rocked a long plait, with British actress Juno Temple wearing an equally long fishtail, paired with messy bottleneck bangs. Nicole Kidman’s hairstyle was fulsome to say the least – a mass of strawberry blonde and very long soft waves that skimmed beyond her chest.
Kerry Washington (Instagram @kerrywashington)
Hailee Steinfeld (Instagram @gregoryrussellhair)
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AESTHETIC MEDICINE
It’s all about the base Industry expert Karen Ellithorne focuses on a vitally important element of skincare, namely strengthening the epidermal barrier
udermic skin simply means normal healthy skin. In a well-balanced epidermis, it is considered normal that the face’s T-zone may be slightly more oily than the rest of the face and that overall, the sebum and moisture is well balanced. A velvety, soft and smooth texture is a good indication of skin health and radiance. So, what are the factors that play a role in keeping the skin functioning optimally and keeping the epidermal barrier intact?
Natural pH level
The term pH means potential of hydrogen and refers to the activity of hydrogen ions in a water based solution. As we know, the pH level of a solution is measured on a numerical scale from 0-14, with 7 being considered neutral. The epidermis surface and uppermost layers are naturally acidic with an average pH of around 5. This can vary slightly according to a variety of factors, such as gender and age.
Effect on skin
The pH of the skin plays an important role in the health of the skin and is key to maintaining the skin’s protective barrier. It serves the purpose of neutralising any alkaline based aggressors (e.g. harsh cleansers), supporting the essential process of desquamation, and is responsible for the optimal environment in which the skin’s natural
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Photo by Alexander Krivitskiy from Pexels
THE SKIN’S MICROBIOME plays an IMPORTANT ROLE in PROTECTING THE SKIN from the EXTERNAL ENVIRONMENT. It WORKS HAND IN HAND with the pH level and acts as a NATURAL ANTIBIOTIC, keeping the SKIN ACIDIC and making it DIFFICULT FOR GERMS to grow.
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AESTHETIC MEDICINE
flora can thrive. When the skin’s pH is altered, the barrier function is compromised. Water loss is increased and the skin dehydrates, leaving it more susceptible to external irritants like pollution and sensitivity.
What is the skin microbiome?
The skin’s microbiome plays an important role in protecting the skin from the external environment. It works hand in hand with the pH level and acts as a natural antibiotic, keeping the skin acidic and making it difficult for germs to grow, thus protecting it from infection. Signals from your skin’s microbiome can activate or deactivate your immune system and assist in controlling harmful inflammation.
IT IS VITAL to ensure that your CLIENT’S SKIN’S PH and MICROBIOME ARE FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY before you embark on any WOUNDING TYPE of treatment. What can affect the skin’s microbiome?
The group of microorganisms that are routinely found all over your body but reside predominantly in your gut make up the microbiome. It is closely tied to one’s health in unexpected ways. ‘Core microbiota’ is the term given to the group of microorganisms in your skin and they play an important role in keeping your skin healthy. Too much of certain bacteria on your skin can lead to skin problems like acne and eczema. Like your fingerprint, we are all born with our own unique microbiome. During natural childbirth, babies get coated in their mother’s microbiome as they pass through the birth canal. Research has shown that babies delivered by C section are more likely to suffer with skin conditions like eczema and allergies. During puberty, androgens stimulate sebum production and acne formation. Certain bacteria love sebum and these bacteria are responsible for the congestion and problematic skin conditions that can occur on the skin of teenagers and adults. The skin microbiome varies throughout your body, with some microorganisms thriving in moist areas, like elbow or knee creases or feet, and others preferring dry or oily areas. A variety of things can affect your microbiome, namely genetics, diet, lifestyle choices like
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smoking, the environment, pollution and UV exposure. The skin’s microbiome can become unbalanced and this is referred to as dysbiosis, which is linked to skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, acne, rosacea and wounds that do not heal.
How to keep the skin healthy at home
If you are you a firm believer in the benefits of taking probiotics for your gut, then you will be pleased to know that the same microbiome philosophy has been revolutionising the skincare industry and that many retail and professional lines have introduced these ingredients into their formulations. They have been proven to boost the skin’s production of ceramides that trap moisture into the skin and keep acne causing bacteria levels in check. This would obviously be a great go to retail option for customers suffering with an impaired barrier.
In-clinic
It is vital to ensure that your client’s skin’s pH and microbiome are functioning correctly before you embark on any wounding type of treatment. In-clinic treatments like peels, lasers and microneedling work on the premise that skin is capable of healing itself after the treatment is performed in order to achieve results. If the skin’s pH and microbiome is off balance, it makes it very difficult for the skin to recover post treatment, especially in more mature clients. It is therefore essential to prep a client’s skin at least two weeks prior to any treatment with adequate home care. This can be in the form of a routine that includes a gentle cleanse, moisturiser and daily broad spectrum sun protection. The addition of boosters with low level AHAs (Alpha-hydroxy Acids) at night are also a good addition to lower the skin’s pH slightly and make it more acidic. This will make the in-clinic treatment more successful. Serums that contain ingredients like ferulic acid and vitamin C are helpful in improving the skin’s ability to prevent free radical damage from the environment. If pigmentation is your customer’s concern, look out for serums with ingredients like tranexamic acid, kojic acid and alpha arbutin to assist with controlling the pigment before embarking on an in-clinic pigmentation treatment. If customers visit you in the clinic and you are unsure how to treat their skin, a 20% lactic acid peel is always a good starting point, as the lactic acid molecules are the largest AHA molecules and therefore the least irritating on the skin. Left for the minimum period and neutralised correctly, this type of peel can help to increase the moisture level in the epidermis and can assist with repairing the skin’s barrier.
A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. Email karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
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PRODUCT FOCUS
Building the barrier
A healthy skin is based on a well-balanced epidermis. Here we focus on products that protect and strengthen the skin Photo by Karolina Gabrowska from Pexels
Ceramides
An important part of skin barrier health, ceramides are natural lipids that are naturally found within the skin, making up 30-40% of the epidermis. So says Ursula Volbrecht of DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care. She continues: “Ceramides work to improve the health of skin cells, providing protection against environmental damage, as well as against bacteria and fungi. They also act as a humectant, locking in moisture to keep skin moist and supple.” Volbrecht notes that these barrier boosting epidermal lipids can be found within the DermaFix Ceramide Complex and the DermaFix Ceramide Eye Complex, formulated as a stable emulsion base containing ceramides 2, 3, 6 ii and phytosphingosine for superior barrier health and support, along with sodium hyaluronate which penetrates deeper into the skin for enhanced skin hydration.
Natural sources
Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA advises that therapists and their clients avoid scrubbing the skin with any harsh chemicals, which can easily disrupt the skin’s equilibrium. She advocates the use of a plethora of healing, repairing, thickening and re-elastising actives. “Technologically superior actives derived from natural sources provide powerful essential anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-wrinkle action, amplifying collagen III (youth collagen) synthesis, with resultant skin plumping, thickening and firming,” states Faucitt. “Renowned healing plants, algae and a combination of super, natural and nature identical synthesised peptides, including Matrixyl 3000, promote and repair the skin, help reduce wrinkle density and depth, rapidly improving elasticity,
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preventing tissue glycation (prevents hardening of elastin fibres), providing a lifting effect, long lasting moisturisation and tightening. These actives help delay the appearance of wrinkles by protecting and stimulating healthy elastin and collagen synthesis. Reparation is the key to strengthening the epidermal barrier.” Faucitt cites star ingredients that produce these results as including Centelastin™ (RégimA trade marked unique combined collagen synthesizing peptides), which promotes anti-glycation, elastin build-up through promoting peptide action and a balanced, healthy collagen synthesis. Peptide Anti-Wrinkle Complex Matrixyl® 3000 activates genes involved in the renewal of the extracellular matrix, while centella asiatica extract and nano-centella extract promotes healing. The Collagen Renewal Complex is a combination of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, tall oil sterol, linoleic acid and sodium ascorbate (vitamin C) to improve synthesis of Collagen III. It mimics the biological system to modulate the fibroblast phenotype via keratinocytes.
Clever combo
The team at Six Skincare point out that retinoic acid is a metabolite of vitamin A that mediates the functions of vitamin A required for growth and development. They believe that retinoic acid, combined with TCA (trichloroacetic acid), helps to normalise the skin and spread the solution evenly. “It provides similar results to TCA peels, but is more controlled and comfortable,” say the Six team. “The Six Retinoic Acid 35% & TCA Peel 20% is an innovative and intensive skin peeling treatment, particularly suitable for acne scars, deep wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. Its properties promote skin renewal and rejuvenation.” The skin will look brighter and be more able to maintain a good balance of moisture. This product is designed to help ward off premature ageing.
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PRODUCT NEWS Vital vitamin
The Matis Réponse Éclat Vitamin C range targets dull, tired and devitalised skins. This range will improve the complexion, overall radiance, energy and functioning of the skin to ensure a glowing, healthy, radiant complexion. The five Glow retail products include an essence, serum, peel off mask, detoxing day & night moisturiser and a wrinkle correcting day & night moisturiser. 011 305 1600
In the market
Our round-up of new products and treatments
Primed for action
The lightweight Instant Smoothing Primer from Six Skincare is an instant pore and line filler, which provides a photo finish flawless appearance. With silicone to give the skin a silky smooth surface, this product provides the perfect base for a BB cream, concealer and/or foundation. The primer aids in restoring strength, flexibility and elasticity to the skin. 011 312 7840
Mapping the brow Threedimensional skincare
Environ’s 3DSynergé™ Filler Crème boasts seven years of extensive scientific research combined with a review of 45 million hexapeptides. This advanced powerhouse booster is formulated to target the dimensions of youth, such as signs of lines and wrinkles, as well as loss of volume to reveal a visibly smoother, firmer, naturally fuller-looking skin appearance. 011 262 0264
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The eyes have it!
Lashgazzm offers the finest, lightest and softest synthetic minx and/ or silk lashes that can be personalised – from the most natural to the most dramatic look. This brand offers the fastest drying, hypo-allergenic glue that reduces treatment time and any eye redness or sensitivity. There are six varying styles of lashes to choose from. 011 262 2451
Creating and shaping amazing brows is a skill that needs mastering. The first step towards expertly created brows is to find the perfect shape for each brow and face shape. The new RefectoCil Brow Mapper allows precise brow mapping and can be used to draw the outline of the brow shape before tinting. 082 5756 567 / 031 209 2548
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NAIL FILE ISSUE 50
APRIL 2022
TOUGHEN UP Nail strengthening products
OUT LOUD
Marketing your nail services
Home front
Tips for running a home salon
WELCOME
t’s not as if home salons did not exist before the pandemic, but because of lockdown, a number of mall salons unfortunately closed down, putting large numbers of therapists and nail techs out of work. Many of these then opted to open home salons as a way of earning a living. In this issue, we run a very useful article that provides guidelines on how to open and run such a business successfully. Whether your salon is situated in a mall, a free-standing building or in your home, a common essential factor is marketing your nail services to attract customers. There are a number of effective ways to do this, as an article written by an expert points out. It’s evident though that in this digital age, social media platforms are ruling the marketing roost. We include in this issue, a product focus on nail strengtheners – a really handy type of product for both retail and treatment, as long as it does no harm to the client’s natural nail. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
Photo by Behrouz Sasani from Pexels
What’s INSIDE 43
Industry News Stay in the know
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Ask the Experts
Marketing your salon
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Business
Top tips for opening a home salon
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Product Hub
All the latest releases
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Step by Step
Monochrome illusion
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Health
Nail strengtheners
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Top Tech Talk @probeautyexpo
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@PROBEAUTYSA
@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA
Lizelle Bothma
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INDUSTRY NEWS
Statement nails at the SAG Awards Nails took centre stage at the 28th Annual SAG (Screen Actors Guild) Awards held in Hollywood recently. Star of ‘The White Lotus’, Alexandra Daddario, included a tribute to the brave people of Ukraine, who are defending themselves against Putin’s war, by having a sunflower – the country’s national flower – painted on one nail on each hand. British actress and singer, Cynthia Erivo (Instagram @rosedoesmynails) Laverne Cox (Instagram @erierinails) Cynthia Erivo, had her extremely long, talon-like stiletto nails in French manicure style with red tips to almond shaped nails. Styled by Eri Ishizu, each nail looked match her spectacular gown. Erivo certainly modeled the like it was wearing a diamond necklace. nails to best effect for the photographers. Jessica Chastain, winner of the SAG Best Actress Award Red carpet darling and trans actress, Laverne Cox, for her role in ‘The Eyes of Tammy Faye’, opted for a subtly sported a pretty, crystal embellished design on nude pink, sparkly nail set that totally went with her silver pantsuit.
Looking Good LCN hosts annual awards event The 2021 Annual Looking Good LCN Awards event was held at the company’s head office in Pretoria on 7 March this year. Says MD Lea Castro: “It was important to us as a brand to acknowledge all our top salons after a very difficult year and also to say a big thank you for their support and loyalty to LCN.” She notes that the Excellence award goes to the salon
LCN’s Isabel Fenner (left) and Lea Castro (right) with the Redlipstick Pamper Lounge team
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with the highest LCN purchases in South Africa, while Prestige awards go to the salons with the highest LCN purchases in each province. The Professional award recognises the salon with the highest LCN purchases of professional products used in salon treatments, and the Retail Hand, nail + foot award goes to the salon with the highest LCN purchases of retail products sold to the end consumer. Excellence Award for Looking Good LCN’s Overall Top Salon: Redlipstick Pamper Lounge Prestige Eastern Cape: LCN Beauty & Nails by Liezl Prestige Northern Cape: LCN Nail Shq Prestige Limpopo – Zen Spa & Rasul Prestige North West – Ekluvits Prestige Western Cape – Redlipstick Pamper Lounge Prestige KZN – Salon Belle Nova Prestige Mpumalanga – Sheer Elegance Nail & Beauty Salon Prestige Free State – New U Prestige Johannesburg – SP Sport & Beauty Prestige Pretoria – BeautyWorx Professional Award – Redlipstick Pamper Lounge Retail Hand, Nail & Feet Award – SOHO Nails/Wax/Beauty
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INDUSTRY NEWS Nail sculptor goes to extreme lengths on NYFW runway
Naomi Ackie (Instagram @mlcnailartist)
Nicola Coughlan (Instagram @michelleclassnails)
Florence Pugh (Instagram @nailsbysg)
Lucy Boynton (Instagram @nailsbysg)
Who wore what at the Baftas? The 75th Baftas (British Academy Film Awards), which unfolded on 13 March at London’s Royal Albert Hall, saw a plethora of glamourous nail looks on the red carpet. For instance, ‘Bridgerton’ star Nicola Coughlan rocked a sparkly, translucent set of nails that perfectly complemented her white, lacy and glittering gown. The nails were by Michelle Class. Celebrity nail stylist, Sabrina Gayle, created a simple yet striking look for Lucy Boynton – short, airforce blue nails with a minimalist half moon detail. Gayle also designed a subtle look for Florence Pugh, cream coloured, shortish oval nails with two big sparkles emanating from the cuticle on each finger. Going for an even more subtle look was nail artist Marie-Louise Coster, whose set for Naomi Ackie can be described in two words – short and dark.
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New York-based nail stylist, Juan Alvear, who refers to himself as a nail sculptor and who is known for pushing boundaries, designed some incredibly long, square shaped nail extensions for British designer Christian Cowan’s runway show at the recent New York Fashion Week. Alvear’s nail sets for the event featured elaborate gem designs on the thumbs and little fingers. These images were sourced from Alvear’s Instagram page (@ byjuanalvear), which also features a photo of chrome nails created for actress Julia Fox, who hit the spotlight as Kanye West’s temporary girlfriend following his split from Kim Kardashian. Other celebs sporting his extreme nail designs on the Instagram page are English singer, Charli XCX, American rapper, Coi Leray, and Madonna’s daughter, Lourdes Leon.
Instagram @byjuanalvear
Instagram @byjuanalvear
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BUSINESS TIPS
Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business
Photo by Rodnae Productions from Pexels
What are the best ways to market my nail services? Before creating a marketing plan you need to assess your nail business and gather some basic information to assist you. Do market research and find out exactly what is going on in your area and decide on your target market. This information will help you when you are planning to run a special to ensure that you don’t under-price or completely over-price yourself. This will depend on whether you have a home-based salon, a salon in a hotel, or whether you are situated in a busy mall. When deciding on a medium to promote your business, think about whether or not that type of advertising will be effective or not and look at various options. We are living in an amazing technologically advanced world, with a variety of tools at our disposal to connect with people, as well as to access and gain information. But remember that your older clients, although they are slowly but surely joining the internet generation, may need to be reached in other ways. Here are some useful marketing platforms. Adverts – newspaper ads, whether printed or digital, are great, but it pays to know whether the people in your area actually read newspapers. E-mail – get permission from clients to e-mail them specials/ newsletters, etc. Keep the e-mails short but interesting. Social media – create a page for your salon on Facebook and update it with interesting information on a regular basis, ensuring that whatever you post is relevant. There are also many other social media channels to utilise, such as Instagram, TikTok, Twitter, Pinterist, LinkedIn, etc. Short videos are currently all the rage and seem to get amazing traction, hence the popularity of
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TikTok and Instagram. Choose the social media platforms that are relevant to your business and that target the people you want to target. Website – it is really important to have a website that tells people about you and who you are, what you have to offer, what’s happening and what’s new. Make sure it is easy to navigate, provides the correct information and represents your business in a positive way. A blog attached to your site for people to ask questions and post their comments is also a great added feature. Promotions – ask your product suppliers to assist you; it can attract clients to have ‘The Expert’ attend to them for the day. Also ask for consignment retail stock for the day to maximise the promotion; this can benefit both salon and supplier. Trade shows – don’t forget about trade shows, events and competitions to promote and market your business. They give you an ideal opportunity and platform to put yourself front and centre before a specifically targeted audience to showcase your skills and abilities. I still feel that the most effective marketing tool is word of mouth, so be professional, passionate and take pride in what you do, while delivering an outstanding service.
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for over 30 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.
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BUSINESS TIPS
at a different stage in their lives and business, do the best you can with what you have. 9. W ear a uniform – always look professional with clean clothes and hair – wear enough deodorant.
Service 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Top tips
People do business with people they like. Become likable and always be very friendly to clients. Make conversation. Photo by Giorgio Trovato on Unsplash Knowledge is power so educate yourself continuously. Study ingredients and know your products; this makes for interesting conversation. Make notes about your client’s personal life and remember to enquire about family members. Above all, give sound advice and assist clients with their every need.
for opening a homebased salon
One of the economic after effects of the Covid lockdown has been the emergence of many home nail salons. Lea Castro provides some invaluable advice for the running of such a business home-based salon in no way means that it needs to be inferior. You can work with what you have but a few key guidelines can assist in keeping it professional.
Appearance
1. Create a separate area for the salon; a separate entrance is preferable. 2. Avoid clutter in the salon. 3. Hygiene and cleanliness needs to be exceptional as clients will be extra critical due it being a home salon. 4. The bathroom needs to be spotless – no toothbrushes etc. 5. Tiles are always better than carpets in a salon. 6. Make it a pet free zone – not everyone shares your love for animals. 7. The salon must smell nice at all time. 8. If your kids are at home with you, do your best to keep them separate and under control. Although everyone is
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Friendly Accommodating Understanding Professional Keep on schedule
Running the business
1. Keep clear records. 2. Do not spend your business money as you receive it on anything but stock and improvements to your salon. Draw a salary at the end of the month. I know this is easier said than done but if you work towards this, you will eventually get there. 3. Control your stock. 4. Use an effective booking app. 5. Rebook every client right away. 6. Have sufficient retail stock so that your clients can see it, smell it, buy it! Your retail should pay your rent. 7. Do not undercharge just because you are home based. People come to you for your excellence. Do not sell yourself short. 8. Your home-based business can be just as classy and professional as any shop front, so it is worth spending a bit on a repaint and the décor. 9. Cheap is not always the solution. Define who you are and where you would like to position yourself in the industry. Why work yourself to death with inferior products when you can double your profit by using a superior brand. Happy clients will send you more happy clients. I wish you great success in your business and trust that you will run a profitable business.
Lea Castro started her career in 1994 as a nail technician, opening a home based salon offering beauty services with her main focus being nails. She opened Looking Good LCN in 2002 as the sole distributor for LCN products in South Africa. Offering training and support, the brand has made its footprint in the beauty industry.
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IN THE MARKET
Living out loud
Bio Sculpture’s Live Life Loudly collection is inspired by the 1970s. Neons are making their way back onto the catwalks, combined with the urge that we all feel to live out loud. These six vivid colours promise to sing and shout this season. The shades are: Poco Pop (bright orange); Sunshine Sway (striking yellow); Retro Rock (neon coral); Violet Vibes (deep vivid violet); Limelight (lime green); and Belle of the Bop (retro neon pink). 051 943 0377
Product Hub Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails
In the pink
The new Calgel control colour base has all the same properties as the Calgel Natural gel but in a pink tint, which results in increased aesthetic appeal. It is easier to apply due to being more visible. The gel can be used on its own for a beautiful natural looking overlay, or as a base for colour application. It also creates a perfect base for French nails. 011 624 1101
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Delight for the feet
The Aloe Vera & Kiwi Foot Mousse from LCN refreshes and nourishes feet intensively. Ingredients such as urea, glycerine and panthenol have an intensively moisturising effect and protect the skin against dehydration. In addition, panthenol has a soothing effect. The fruity Kiwi fragrance, with its fresh, floral note, invigorates the senses. This nourishing foam provides a pleasant, smooth feeling to the skin as well as silky soft feet. Skin compatibility is dermatologically confirmed. 010 593 3293
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STEP BY STEP
Monochrome illusion This intriguing design was created by Matthew Green
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5
Step 6
Begin with a nail that’s been painted white. Remember to cure in between each step. With this design, practice makes perfect.
In the remaining space on the right side, create a half circle shape. Add a curved, thick stripe to the top section of the created half circle, then create four black stripes that match the curve of the added top stripe, which progressively flatten.
Start with a slanted ‘S’ shape in the middle of the nail.
Add three curved black triangular stripes, following the curve of the top of the ‘S’ shape, almost mirroring Step 3. Then, add a black circular shape to the tip of the largest triangular shapes. You can now start to see the illusion.
Matthew Green is a queer male nail technician who works from Paradise Cosmetics, an aesthetic studio alongside Palm Black Tattoo in the heart of Cape Town. He specialises in intricate nail art designs and nail extensions, and works with an array of mediums.
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Create three curved triangular shapes following the curve of the bottom of the slanted ‘S’ shape, curving around the bottom of the nail.
Add four stripes that follow the curve of the left most triangular shape created in Step 5 that end up following the curve of the black circular shape. You can now see the illusion, so you can stop here, but to make it pop, add some black that’s been mixed with a clear gel into the intersecting points of the illusion and fade it away from the centre. Then, add some solid black into the inner most section.
online @ probeauty.co.za
HEALTH
Keratin power
The CND Rescuerxx™ Daily Keratin Treatment helps repair damaged nails with the power of keratin protein and conditioning jojoba oil. It also aids in strengthening weakened natural nails that have been harmed by environmental or mechanical trauma. This product will help stop the perpetuation of further delamination and/ or splitting. 011 791 4027
Absolutely argan
High in essential fatty acid and vitamin E content, DermaFix Argan Oil 100% organic helps to strengthen and moisturise the nail plate, whilst improving the overall health condition of the nail cuticle. 086 128 2323
Coming on strong
Nail strengthening products that produce effective results without causing damage to the client’s natural nail are a valuable offering in any salon
From the volcano
Boosting gel
From LCN, the Natural Nail Boost Gel improves the structure of the nail plate after application. This light curing, solvent resistant, permanent gel polish gives a flawless finish, while protecting the natural nail. It allows the nail to regenerate and offers a perfect polish surface. 010 593 3293
online @ probeauty.co.za
Bio Sculpture Ethos Volcanic Base is a nail hardener enriched by volcanic stone extract to give strength to soft nails. It is rich in pistachio oil, which is known to increase nail hardness as well as flexibility. It is ideal for soft nails that are weak and brittle with a tendency to split and can be used as a treatment before gel application, as well as for retail. 051 943 0377
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Q&A
Top Tech
Talk
NailFile chats to salon owner and avid nail artist, Lizelle Bothma, about the challenges of running your own beauty business For how long have you been a nail tech?
Five years. At the beginning of my career I wasn’t interested in anything to do with nails. It was only recently that I caught nail ‘fever’ and my life hasn’t been the same since.
Where did you do your nail training?
We had basic acrylic and gel training at Hydro International College, where I studied somatology, although I wasn’t interested in doing nails then. I qualified in somatology and do facials, lash extensions, massages, waxing, permanent make-up and more. Beauty had always been my passion until nail art found me, in 2019, when I did a conversion course with Mia Secret. It was then that I fell in love with their techniques and started experimenting with all things shiny nails.
BEING ON MY OWN has opened a NEW DOOR TO POSSIBILITIES and OPPORTUNITIES. That being said, it also comes with great RESPONSIBILITY AND COMMITMENT. 50
online @ probeauty.co.za
Q&A
NAIL ART is a FAST GROWING BUSINESS that you need to stay up to date with, especially when ENTERING COMPETITIONS. There is NO WRONG OR RIGHT with nail art, you just NEED TO LOVE IT. remembering to order stock, book clients, diarise important training dates, etc. Luckily I found an appointment app that helps me get everything organised.
Have you had to make any changes to your nail services menu, or in the way that you run the salon, so as to adapt to the Covid economy?
You have your own salon in Ermelo called Haven – when did you open it?
Around four years ago. I always describe Ermelo as a small town in Mpumalanga with a big heart. Prior to to launching Haven, I was very fortunate to have worked at a few salons in different towns, which gave me loads of experience and insight on how to run a business. A few years ago, life threw me a curveball but instead of giving up, I decided to rise to the challenge and open a home-based salon. This made me feel secure as it’s a place where I can hide when I feel overwhelmed, without being judged or frowned upon. This is exactly how I want my clients to feel – safe and loved. Furthermore, working for someone always made me feel restricted; it was like I could never truly get out of my comfort zone. Being on my own has opened a new door to possibilities and opportunities. That being said, it also comes with great responsibility and commitment.
What are the biggest challenges you’ve had to overcome in terms of running your own salon?
I always keep my prices as affordable as possible, knowing that we are all in this together. At first, when Covid infections were still high, I only offered only nail services, no beauty. There were times during 2020 and 2021 when I thought business would never pick up, but I’m very fortunate that all my clients have returned, even though it took a while. Business has definitely increased over the past few months, ever since Covid infection numbers started dropping.
Do you have any mentors in the nail industry?
It would be impossible to choose one! There are so many talented, innovating and inspiring ladies out there. Elma Dos Reis in Ermelo has not only taught me many nail art ‘secrets’, but also how to be confident in my work and to always know my worth. Lisa Steyn in Kriel runs the most amazing courses in nail art. Calgel’s Elaine Timcke, with her exceptional talent in watercolor art, has also inspired me.
Do you mostly work alone or do you employ other nail techs? Mostly I just do my own thing as I’m always worried about having a nail tech/ therapist who doesn’t share my enthusiasm. A therapist’s vibe and/ or attitude sets the atmosphere; the client has to feel loved, wanted and appreciated.
What is your most in-demand nail service?
An acrylic overlay is always popular, with a faded French and normal French manicure always being a winner. Mostly, clients prefer a subtle look that requires little ‘maintenance’ until their next appointment. Approximately 80% of my clients do nail art, but not extensive art. Being in a small inland town, most art consists of accent glitter nails.
I would say taking on all the responsibility and refusing help from others. This includes
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Q&A You regularly participate in nail competitions – why do you enjoy taking part in these?
I live for these competitions, it’s a way to blow off steam after an exhausting day. Some people go to the gym after work, but I can’t imagine not snuggling up on my couch with nail glitters and paints all over the place.
What advice would you give a nail tech who wants to enter a nail competition that has a specific theme?
When you excel in nail competitions, do you use your success in the salon’s marketing? Definitely! As soon as I enter a competition, I immediately post the pictures on my Facebook page. Clients always want to know what my competition nails look like, wanting inspiration for their next appointment.
Please describe the most challenging piece of nail art that you’ve ever done. This would definitely be the ‘fairy’ that I created with acrylic, builder gel and a lot of patience. It took a couple of days to get everything in place, but the hardest part was to get her standing in the perfect area.
Doing extensive research is a prime element before any planning can begin. It doesn’t necessarily have to be research of existing nails on the specific theme. It could be 3D objects, like figurines or even cake toppers. Inspirations lurks around every corner, you just have to look. If at first you don’t succeed, try, try and try again! There is no wrong or right with nail art, you just need to love it. I have to admit that YouTube has also taught me a lot – what a great advantage to be able to pause the video while you experiment with new ideas.
I would LOVE TO EMPOWER other INDIVIDUALS to be able to START THEIR OWN BUSINESS by offering training and TEACHING them basic BUSINESS SKILLS.
Have you noticed any particular international nail art trends recently?
A new trend that I’ve noticed is where glitter fades from the cuticle area towards the free edge of the nail, but still has the normal French or faded French overlay.
Where do you think nail art is headed in the future?
Nail art is a fast growing business that you need to stay up to date with, especially when entering competitions. I would love 3D art to rule the world! As for salon based art, I think most clients will stick to a modern and elegant aesthetic, using beautiful nude colors with simple line art or whimsical art.
What is your long term plan regarding your nail career?
I would love to empower other individuals to be able to start their own business by offering them training and teaching them basic business skills. As legendary tennis champion, Serena Williams, once said: “Every woman’s success should be an inspiration to another. We’re strongest when we cheer each other on.”
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online @ probeauty.co.za
We hope you enjoyed this edition of Professional Beauty If you would like to view previous issues of the magazine please click HERE
AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS
Be Inspired Be Motivated Be Business Focused The BIG Buzz Business Events
A BIG Buzz Business Event Lagoon Beach Hotel Cape Town
Be Inspired Be Motivated Be Business Focused
Some Say Laser Is Not For Everyone - WE DISAGREE! The benefits of Advanced Aesthetic Laser treatments are sure to make your salon a lucrative success – if you have the indispensable skills training to make it one! With campuses nationwide, Aesthetic Laser Academy is dedicated to providing industry leading training in advanced aesthetic laser courses such as Cavitation (non-surgical laser lipo slimming) , Radio Frequency, ND Yag/ Pico Laser, IPL/ Diode, bedroom vitality treatments (which improves both male and female sexual functionality) and many more! We offer something for anyone looking to start or enhance their career in aesthetics. The main distinction that sets our Academy apart from the rest is the comprehensiveness of each course. Boasting more than 10 years of experience in the Aesthetics industry, our founder Tanya Parsons, has developed the ideal Advanced Aesthetics Course by cultivating a combination of maximum theoretical learning with practical hands-on training. Our full course is spread over 4 weeks, with 3 days of each week being allocated to lectures with the remaining 2 days set aside for practical classes and exams. In our practical classes, our students bring in their own case studies to perform treatments on, allowing them to familiarise themselves with treatment procedures and the various laser machines. Our training is not machine specific and so we teach the application regardless of the brand of laser equipment that you have! We encourage existing machine owners to bring along their machines for training so that they can get fully accustomed to working with their laser. However, we highly recommend that our students attend training prior to purchasing their machines, to ensure an informed purchase is made. Aesthetic Laser Therapy is one of the most up and coming, rewarding careers in the cosmetology and aesthetics industry, giving people a renewed confidence in the appearance of their skin and bodies. The dramatic increase in aesthetic procedures is attributed to an aging population, more disposable income and affordable treatment prices- but perhaps the most significant contributor is the realization that you do not need to go under the knife to achieve aesthetic enhancements. It is also a trendy new career path amongst the male population, with ND Yag Workshops being a particular favourite, often a result of the laser tattoo removal application. Laser treatments can achieve similar results with minimal downtime and little discomfort. However, it requires intensive theoretical and practical training by the specialist to master these laser treatments, in order to ensure successful pain free procedures and remarkable results. The beauty of being a laser therapist is that your job opportunities are countless. At Aesthetic Laser Academy, we have seen our students go on to perform laser treatments for doctor’s offices, dermatology clinics, salons, medical spas, and more often or not, their own businesses! Contact us today on 084 833 6107 or visit us on www.LaserAcademy.co.za to learn how to administer 42 laser, light & electro treatments using 15 different applications! We love everything Laser – Training, Equipment, Repairs, Rentals, Recruitment!
Anke Products The Ultimate Home Accessories Anke Products (Pty) Ltd is a South African company based in a tranquil, artistic little town called Parys, which is less than an hour from Johannesburg on the banks of the Vaal River. Anke Massyn, our inhouse connoisseur, is the mastermind behind the design of our amazing Wooden Cap mechanism. She continually looks for new ideas to improve and extend our product offering from her various travels and influences from around the World. Paul, our fragrance expert, is an internationally acclaimed fragrance chemist who has done work for brands such as the Waldorf Astoria Hotel New York, Ralph Lauren Corporation and many more globally recognized top-tier brands. Paul makes up a central part of our team and adds tremendously to our secret formula as a business success. Our proudly local business has gone from success to success over the past few years and we are steadily establishing our brand footprint among larger retail spaces as well as smaller gifting, beauty and home businesses across South Africa. Our fragrance lines include: Pink Champagne, Sugared Grapefruit, Cashmere Lilac, Southern Belle, Agarwood, Wild Lemongrass, Orange Blossom, Sandalwood and Rose, Jasmyn, Palo Santo, Teakwood Tobacco, Le Vanille and Secret Gardenia. Our product range consists of: The original, unique wooden top diffusers, diffuser refills, Room and Linen sprays, essential oils, aroma tags, car fragrance cards, soy candles and soy tealight candles. All of our products are popular as gifts, especially our 3-in-1 and 2-in-1 gift boxes. Full of gorgeous charisma, strength and elegance, our fragrances will continue to emit from the wood for weeks after the fragrance oil has been absorbed from the bottle. Our products are excellent quality, long lasting and an exquisite addition to your home or workspace. Get in touch: www.ankeproducts.co.za https://www.facebook.com/ankeproductsSA https://www.instagram.com/anke_products OJ oj@ankeproducts.co.za Leroné lerone@ankeproducts.co.za
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The Ultimate Home Accessory online @ probeauty.
www.ankeproducts.co.za
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Bio Sculpture has started 2022 off with a bang! We have many new and exciting products that have been launched as well as upcoming launches planned for this year, so join us at one of the professional beauty expos and our Bio Expo for more information. We will be at all of professional beauty’s conferences this year (JHB, DBN, PE, CPT and BFN) come visit our stand to see what’s new, chat to one of our educators, find out about our training deals and much more or join us at our very own Bio Sculpture Expo will be on the 9th May at in Monte Casino purchase your ticket now to see our latest launches, special guest talks and amazing product specials! BIO SCULPTURE is an award winning nail product that consists of 5 sub-brands, we pride ourselves in our professionalism and have award winning nail technicians worldwide. Our purpose is to provide quality products and professional training, empowering nail technicians to offer healthy and fashion able nail care systems, guided by an ethical business approach. Our 5 Sub Brands: 1. BIOGEL is the original, professional, soak-off, easy wear nail gel system in a jar. With a 5-star Safety Rating boasting natural nail health, while beautifully enhancing and transforming any nail. A scientifically formulated pure gel range which varies from flexible to solid, BIOGEL is suitable for every nail type and is excellent for extending & strengthening nails. 2. EVO gel polish is quick and easy to apply. With excellent adhesive properties, EVO is an extremely durable, long-lasting, high shine gel overlay. This Gel Polish system in a bottle consists of Base Gels, Colours and Top Coat. 3. ETHOS is the Natural Nail Care range by BIO SCULPTURE, pledged to Nail HEALTH. The unique property of the key natural ingredient in each individual treatment is discretely displayed on its bottle. Ideal for professional salon use and home care. 4. GEMINI -representing “twins”- is Bio Sculpture’s Nourishing Nail Polish which matches BIOGEL colours. 14ml of GEMINI colour is brilliantly displayed in the recognisable square bottle. GEMINI contains hardening plant extract agents derived from Aloe Vera, Lemon and Ginseng. It is fast drying, long lasting and will add strength to the nail. Gemini has a UV filter and is Styrene Free. 5. BI-OLYGEL is a UV gel, strengthened with acrylic paste to bring out the best properties of both gel and acrylic systems, creating a firm hard gel that is easy and quick to apply. We hope to see you soon!
Inspired by the 70’s, neons are making their way back onto the catwalks & together with the urge we feel to live out loud, these 6 colours promise to sing and shout this season!
The Hitech Group Hitech Lasers, founded in 1974 by Wicus Olivier (Snr) and driven by his passion to improve the delivery of healthcare – has become South Africa’s leading expert in light-based equipment, Aesthetic, Surgical, Ophthalmic and Research Lasers. Wicus Olivier (Jnr) as current Managing Director endorses the values instilled in the company for the past 48 years, providing systems that are innovative, ground-breaking, award-winning, excellent and outstanding. We are proud of our unrivalled reputation for quality, integrity, service and reliability. DEKA, an Italian manufacturer of a wide range of light-based systems, has a strong global presence. The Hitech Group as DEKA’s sole distributor in South Africa and Sub-Saharan Africa for their Aesthetic and Medical systems, gives us the capability to be well positioned to meet the needs of the market we serve. Hitech Lasers offers treatment solutions, not only to Aesthetic Salon owners but also to Dermatology, Plastic Surgery and Medical Aesthetic Practitioners. We provide sales, training and support for all the systems we sell. As a company we remain determined to reach our goal to improve the welfare and quality of life of clients and patients. We will introduce 2 DEKA systems at the Professional Beauty Conference and Expo: ONDA Plus Coolwaves™ - Non-surgical Body Sculpting System. MOTUS AY - The Pain-free Alexandrite and Nd:YAG laser platform that can treat all skin types.
ONDA
A single system, brought to you by DEKA, Italy, is equipped with three focussed handpieces and the non-invasive, painless Onda Coolwaves® patented microwaves technology. It addresses sagging skin, cellulite, localized fat all over the body, skin toning and body sculpting. Onda Coolwaves® action is deep and targeted, without damaging nearby skin. Microwaves at 2.45GHz are absorbed particularly by adipose cells. Coolwaves® are able to bypass the uppermost layers of skin tissue and deliver energy directly to the subcutaneous fat cells, increasing fat cell death. This helps to dramatically reduce heating of the surface tissue. With a completely safe and controlled Onda Plus treatment there is no downtime, no swelling, no redness and no itching. Nothing will stop your patient from carrying on with their day.
MOTUS AY
DEKA’s Motus AY is the world’s first FDA approved Alexandrite (755nm) and Nd:YAG (1064nm) laser, covering all applications from painless hair removal to non-ablative photo rejuvenation, to vascular and pigmented lesion treatments. The Alexandrite 755nm can treat all hair and skin types, including the more challenging finer and lighter hair types, achieving results not known in this segment of the aesthetic market. The Moveo Handpiece technology, using a 20mm integrated sapphire contact cooling tip, differentiates it from other lasers by allowing light and dark skin tones to benefit from the painless and effective treatments of the Alexandrite wavelength. FDA approved for all skin types (Fitzpatrick I – VI), including tanned skin! The advantages of the Motus AY multi-platform doesn’t stop with hair removal. As a double source system, it broadens the range of possible treatments. With the additional Nd:YAG 1064nm wavelength, you can penetrate deep into the skin for effective vascular treatments on the face and legs. DEKA’s Motus AY platform allows you to expand your customer base with highly advanced and innovative technology. Visit Hitech Lasers to see this technology for yourself.
The Hitech Group where proven EXCELLENCE, SAFETY, VERSATILITY, REAL RESULTS and PROFITABILITY of their Laser, IPL and RF systems
ONDA PLUS with COOLWAVES™
unite
Experience Aesthetic Laser systems taking aesthetic procedures to a new dimension.
Revolutionizes Body Contouring, Cellulite & Skin Tightening. Three handpieces for complete body treatment.
AGAIN
SCHWARZY
Alexandrite & Nd:YAG. Moveo technology. 30mm Handpiece. Painless Hair Removal ALL skin & hair types. Vascular & Pigmentation.
Effortless Fat Reduction through Neuromuscular Stimulation. Localized fat reduction, toning and volumizing the muscles.
MOTUS AY
REDTOUCH
Alexandrite & Nd:YAG. Moveo technology. Painless Hair Removal ALL skin & hair types. Vascular & Pigmentation.
Specific Wavelength (675nm) acting on Collagen. Non-Ablative Photorejuvenation with minimal downtime.
MOTUS AX
SMARTXIDE PUNTO
Alexandrite 755nm. Moveo Technology. Painless Laser Hair Removal on ALL Skin Types & Pigmented Lesions.
Fractional CO2 with Coolpeel® for unique downtime control. Scar Treatment, Photorejuvenation, Periocular Lifting and more.
SMARTXIDE TOUCH / DOT®
LUXEA Multifunctional Platform with a choice of 12 handpieces. Laser (YAG & Diode), Pulsed Light and Radiofrequency for endless treatment options.
Fractional CO2 and Radiofrequency combined action for total Skin Resurfacing. Vaginal Rejuvenation – Monalisa Touch.
DENAVE
SMARTPICO
True 585nm wavelength Solid State Laser, Dye Laser, Nd:YAG, Pulsed Light and RightLightTM. Compact and transportable. Treatment of Rosacea and Vascular Lesions.
Pico- and Nanosecond Emissions in 2 wavelengths. Tattoo Removal, Scar Treatment and Photorejuvenation.
Contact: The Hitech Group aesthe cs@hitechlasers.co.za Tel: +27 12 349 1250 +27 82 575 3755 www.hitechlasers.co.za Facebook: HitechGroupSA
About PayJustNow PayJustNow is a Buy Now, Pay Later platform, offering 3 equal & 0% interest split payments. It’s a valuable partner to businesses, with merchants that use PayJustNow seeing sales boosts of up to 30% & an increase in average basket size of up to 35%. More at www.payjustnow.com PayJustNow can attract new customers and increase basket size In a short space of time, PayJustNow is changing the face of the South African retail credit market with an alternative payment solution that’s winning the hearts and minds of consumers and retailers alike. PayJustNow is leading the local charge in the booming ‘Buy Now, Pay Later’ (BNPL) market, which has seen more than 200 000 consumers and over 1000 retailers - including Edgars, Puma, HP and the Cape Union Mart Group – sign up since its launch in August 2019. For shoppers, BNPL offers the flexibility of spreading the cost of a purchase across three months interest-free, while receiving the goods immediately. For merchants, it offers even more benefits: retailers that use BNPL programmes are seeing incremental sales boosts of up to 30%, with an increase in average basket size of up to 35%, said Craig Newborn, CEO of PayJustNow.
Convenience and flexibility
While increased conversion is compelling enough on its own, implementing BNPL – either online or for in-store purchases – has been shown to increase customer loyalty and repeat purchases. The convenience, flexibility, and transparency of BNPL drives loyalty, both to the service and to the retailers that offer it. Having started as an ecommerce offering, PayJustNow launched in-store shopping in early 2021, and the response has been encouraging. From brick and mortar retailers to flea market stalls selling high-value goods, the system allows merchants to generate QR codes to create payment points, and get real time notifications of successful transactions. “Shoppers use BNPL for a variety of reasons: They want to be responsible with their finances, they like the convenience, or they simply don’t have a credit card. BNPL offers them a responsible alternative to credit, with no fees charged unless payments are missed. This gives shoppers access to items and services they want or need without constraining their available resources,” said Newborn. As the use of frictionless, contactless experiences in retail settings increase, the BNPL sector is undergoing exponential growth, both locally and abroad. It currently only makes up 2% of the global market, but consumers are expected to make nearly $100 billion in retail purchases using BNPL in 2021, up from $24 billion in 2020 and $20 billion in 2019. Will BNPL become as ubiquitous as credit card payments? Watch this space.
online @ probeauty.
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PayJustNow A payment option that will boost your turnover by up to 30% Buy now, pay later is the fastest growing payment method globally. What’s stopping you from offering your customers a no-strings, interest free payment option?
Here’s how it works
www.payjustnow.com
online @ probeauty.
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The pHower of pHformula Who is pHformula? Through continuous research and innovation at the Laboratories in Barcelona, Spain, pHformula has become a leader in the medical aesthetic industry for the skin specialist. “Our integrated approach between cosmeceutical and medical skin care has created the first pharma-cosmeceutical range available in more than 45 countries globally.” Petru van Zyl, FOUNDER
What makes pHformula different? pHformula has a very different approach to skin care. Thanks to the over 30 years’ combined experience from the most sought-after skin specialists, we were able to ask some vital questions and create the perfect answers. What were those industry-changing questions? • Why do we need to use multiple products to treat one skin concern? Why not use one product to treat multiple concerns instead? • Can superior results only come from traditional peeling? Isn’t there another way to affect this treatment without the consumer having to deal with the superficial trauma and the downtime? • Can we give the highest level of concentrated ingredient safely to consumers for them to use daily and continuously? • Are the products available in the professional skin care industry giving skin specialists the tools they need to customize best-re-
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sult solutions for their consumer’s multiple skin concerns? And the answer we came up with? pHformula is the first skin care line offering advanced skin resurfacing, as opposed to traditional peeling. Traditional peeling was done with neutralizing acids. Our advanced products, PH-DVC™ and Powerclay™, create optimal cell-regeneration through ‘layer and leave on’ acid application formulations. As a result, the pHformula supports the skin improvement with high concentrations - but without the downtime. Whatever you think, think the opposite A cosmetic approach may have been how skin specialists were trained in South Africa in the past. The advances we have created make this an outdated approach. Here at pHformula, we do things differently. That’s why pHformula is all about ‘whatever you think, think the opposite’. The new age of medical aesthetics needs a new heartbeat. Our passion is to bring skin care spe-
often not ready for this. Not all of the more experienced skin specialists keep up-to-date on the latest technological advances. We may have the best products, but we want skin specialists to deliver what’s best for the client. When faced with yet another product training session, most skin specialists are normally filled with the dread. Past experience has proved to be no more than a brain washing session on why the brand educator’s product is the best as well as the strict treatment protocols that must be followed when applying the product. A pHowerful new way of learning the skills a skin specialist needs today We want skin specialists to start asking the right questions and challenging the norm. This is, we believe, where they will grow to their full potential. This is the foundation of our training. And it’s why pHformula education is all about ‘whatever you think, think the opposite’. That vision is seen in how our education plays out in our small groups and our training materials.
Selected Groups Our training environment is based on selected groups for optimal discussion and practical time. Shared knowledge is the strongest knowledge and small groups make this possible. Our student-centered approach equips our skin specialists with the ability to apply their knowledge in a confident manner immediately. cialists into that new realm. Con- Our Training Materials sumers are looking for results driv- To keep our skin specialists at the en techniques, treatments, and forefront of leading skin-care products. Today’s consumers are products and techniques, all our more knowledgeable about skin education material is based on care than ever before. Skin care constantly updated clinical data specialists must know why one and research. ingredient is different to anothFor South-African skin specialists er, what the concentrations of who want to take their training ingredients in a product are, and even further, advanced workwhat combinations of treatments shops on skin histology, biochemand products would give them istry, cosmetic chemistry, and not only the quickest, but the medical aesthetics are held at best results. the heart of the brand at our skin Most entry level therapists are academy in Barcelona, Spain.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Taking care of curls NaturallyE is a South African company founded in 2021 and owned by Nieshell Watson, Her niece Tessa later joined her on this powerful journey. The E stands for Ester, Mrs. Watson’s grandmother, the woman she looked up to. Ester was a strong black woman who believed in growing her vegetables and in natural beauty. It is only fitting that this brand is part of the first line of products that will be part of this expanding organization. Curly hair was considered unprofessional and messy, but the Rëzo brand will break the boundaries and do the opposite, as this all-natural product will bring color and shine back to the hair of natural women. Natural-haired women will no longer fear their hair texture but instead embrace it. The Rëzo brand will help them achieve this goal. The Rëzo brand was founded in 2018 by New York-based master stylist, educator, and world-renowned curl expert Nubia Suarez. Rëzo is a comprehensive hair care brand designed to empower the curl-loving community by celebrating textured hair and promoting healthy hair habits. In Spanish, the word “rizo” means “curl” and the word “Rëzo” means “I pray.” Rëzo’s mission is to encourage women and men to embrace their natural curls, which represent identity and self-confidence, by providing the community with the tools needed to care for and promote them through expert knowledge and product expertise. Currently, there are six Rëzo brand products, namely Curl Control Shampoo and Conditioner, Curl Define Gel, an Anti-Friz Towel, and a Silicone Diffuser that fits all blow dryers. Rëzo’s four-step process of shampoo, conditioner, gel, and serum uses a plant-based, silicone-free ingredient that promotes healthy hair and hair growth. Scientific experiments show that the outer layer of the hair, the cuticle, determines how well you retain color and moisture. Curly hair can have either high or low porosity, regardless of its texture. If your regimen has left your curly locks dull and tangled, try treating your locks with a protein treatment to trap dirt, debris, and dead cells before they penetrate the hair strands, preventing color fade and dryness. Curls need to be nourished. This means using a moisturizing conditioner, applying it to your curls from the inside out, and being careful not to over-comb your hair. Cutting curly hair should not be much of a hassle, and thanks to the innovative Rëzo Cut, you will not have to worry about your curls moving around for days. The technique collapses the curly roots and straightens them on its own. This will give you remarkable volume and bounce in no time. With the increasing use of AI, machines are getting smarter. Rëzo Lites is a variation of the Rëzo Cut method and emphasizes color by diffusion. Rëzo is a new haircare line with products that are silicone and sulfate-free, vegan, and enriched with plant-based ingredients. The newest hair academy in LA has opened to teach stylists with curly hair. The Rëzo Academy in Los Angeles was created to teach professionals Nubia Rëzo’s new technique for curly hair. Whether it is curly hair or any other hair type, there can be problems and complications. Nubia Rëzo has developed a simple solution to these problems, making it easier to manage not only curly hair but also all other hair types. The founder of Rëzo Hair Care, Nubia Rëzo, built her company by understanding, educating, and caring for all types of curls. Rëzo Haircare has become a one-stop shop for holistic care.
IN AFRICA
BENEFITS Rëzo Hair Care range defines your curls and leaves them smooth, soft and beautiful
100% VEGAN
NOT YOUR ORDINARY SUPPLIER….. In fact we don’t refer to ourselves as suppliers, we are your BRAND AND BUSINESS PARTNERS! Suppliers sell you product we sell you solutions, ideas and inspiration! The Spa Consultants offer a full one stop solution to your spa, salon or aesthetic clinic needs. Starting with concept, design and building of your space with over 40 magnificents projects completed to date and another 2 show stoppers being built in South Africa and a unique rain forest spa project in India! We are proud to be chosen as the Spa Operations Officers for the Spa group, so watch this space. Our business systems are ground breaking and truly life changing for business owners. We move in and literally TRANSFORM your business. This is a guarantee Spa Professionals Guild looks after business owners and managers continuous professional development with an online platform connecting professionals from around the world to share best practices and have access to updated templates, tools and SOP’s to simply make your business more efficient and profitable. We have over 100 members from 21 countries so join us and watch your business knowledge and systems literally transform. SIX AESTHETIX is a revolutionary solution for Aesthetic Clinics and Doctors who specialize in anti ageing and aesthetic treatments. we have the most advanced skin peeling systems that can be used to treat pigmentation on dark skins which is really a first! We have the only Scar Repair Cream to have 6 active ingredients working together and shows results in as little as a few weeks. We have a range of devices and equipment that is state of the art technology with quick return on investments and jaw dropping results. Our latest technology is RF needling using 81 gold plated pins to needle the skin whilst delivering Radio Frequency energy into the deeper layers of the skin for an instant tightening and lifting effect. So now you have combination of collagen boosting and non surgical skin tightening SIX SKINCARE delivers memorable skincare experiences! Yes, we don’t do facials, we do EXPERIENCES with instant results. And at the same time offering the industry the highest margins available so you make real money on your skincare. 40% is just not good enough anymore and we are committed to helping you grow and make money. Spalicious is an Award Winning hands, feet and body brand! We treat bodies the same way we treat faces, so once again not an ordinary product but a results driven sensorial experience is what we deliver with this magnificent brand. Whats coming up next???? We are so excited to announce that we will finally be launching our all natural baby and toddler range as well as a pregnancy range with some beautiful treatments for that special time in a womans life. Watch this space we are almost there! We would love to connect with you and lets see how we can help each other grow and evolve, so contact us and lets meet. 011 312-7840 marisa@thespaconsultants.com, anna@thespaconsultants.com, karen@thespaconsultants.com
The Spa Consultants will be SHOWCASING the very first RF Needling Machine in SA!!! Come and experience a treatment for FREE valued at R2000 and see for yourself the results of this latest technology using 81 gold plated pins to needle the skin whilst delivering Radio Frequency energy into the deeper layers of the skin for an instant tightening and lifting effect. So now you have combination of collagen boosting and non surgical skin tightening. If you want to pre book your treatment as we have limited spaces please contact Micaela on 011 312 7840
Welcome, to the year of the underdog
We all love an underdog story. To see someone succeed in a way we’d never expect reminds us that the odds are there to be beaten. Because it does happen - underdogs do rise, and when they do, they break the barriers that hold us all back. We can’t guarantee it will be easy. But we can guarantee that odds do change. To unlock more opportunities for the underdog, Yoco is dedicating this year to you. And to start things off, we’re launching a massive sale to help you get paid. Save up to 33% on Yoco card machines, starting at just R199 once-off, with no contracts or monthly fees. Buy yours at stand C11 to get started today. Welcome, to the year of the underdog. Where underdogs change the odds.
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online @ probeauty.co.za
Card machines starting at
R199 SAVE 200
Visit yoco.com or get yours at the Yoco Stand - C11 Offer valid while stocks last.T&C’s apply.
Original, classic, comprehensive
WHERE WE STARTED Spa and Salon Solutions was established in 1996 with a focus on the import, manufacture and distribution of premium professional products, machinery and equipment into the South African beauty and medical aesthetic markets. Just over twenty years later, the company is a well-established and respected specialist supplier, locally and fast gaining a reputation in the spa and salon sector abroad – largely due to the development and growth of the range of hand, foot and body care products and professional equipment, Milk Solutions. MILK SOLUTIONS Milk Solutions was first introduced to South African spas and salons in 2001 as a line of four core professional pedicure products. Designed and developed locally, with the goal of providing beauty business owners with international quality at more affordable prices, commitment to this initial intent has been central to the brand’s success and remains at the heart of the Milk Solutions proposition. Today, Milk Solutions has grown into one of the most comprehensive ranges of results-driven in-salon and at-home hand, foot and body treatments available on the South African market. A portfolio of 29 paraben-free products, presented in four ranges - Milk and Honey, Garden, Fruit and Professional - deliver real improvement and visible results. Combining the highest-quality traditional and non-traditional ingredients, scientific technology and nature’s chemistry, each highly-specialised product works hand in hand with the rest, enabling practitioners to customise treatments and personalise product mixes to actively address the variety of skin conditions and nail concerns that women of different ages, ethnicities and lifestyles experience in today’s urban, “working girl” environment. This holistic offering benefits beauty business owners as much as it does their clients, particularly when it comes to consistency, convenience and cost of their services. Milk Solutions packaging has a professional look and feel to align with international beauty trends and to give the brand better shelf impact as the growth strategy continues to actively target the consumer retail segment. Focus has also been on infiltrating key African markets including Namibia, Zambia and Kenya as well as Europe. All products have completed a rigorous EU certification process and the brand continues to be successfully distributed to salons and retail outlets throughout the UK.
Hey Honey! Pass the Milk! Milk & Honey our original, classic and comprehensive range of skincare treatments for the hands, feet and body.
www.milksolutionsbeauty.com