Professional Beauty South Africa Aug 2021 by Professional Beauty SA

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

NAILFILE

FAD OR HERE TO STAY? Low-touch therapies MEETING OF THE MINDS Corporate wellness

EVERYTHING UNDER THE SUN Protective creams and August 2021 | probeauty.co.za

tanning systems

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CONTENTS

IN THIS ISSUE Regulars 7

Industry news

Crowning glory

Local and international news

New products

Spa Focus

Business 16

Ask the Experts

A ‘Fresh’ take on spas

Crisis creates opportunity

All your questions answered

Fresh Wellness Spa Group

Embrace change and seek feedback

The world of corporate wellbeing and wellness

Touchless therapies – here to stay?

Do you have an exit strategy?

A growing global trend

Alternatives to touch

Moving on from your business

Interview 22

Talking to…Trevor Steyn

Esse founder on probiotic skincare and sustainability

Feature

Sunny side up

Sun protection and tanning systems

Aesthetic Medicine 42

Results are not negotiable, ever Treatments and products for clients on a budget

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NailFile 45

Issue 44

WELCOME

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

NAILFILE

FAD OR HERE TO STAY? Low-touch therapies MEETING OF THE MINDS Corporate wellness

EVERYTHING UNDER THE SUN Protective creams and August 2021 | probeauty.co.za

tanning systems

Cover source: Shutterstock

And we thought June was a terrible month for the beauty industry and country, with COVID-19 infections spiking so dreadfully and many people understandably succumbing to coronavirus anxiety and staying away from salons and spas! Well, the month of July brought even more horrors to South Africa – a week of devastating looting and vandalism of malls and shops, resulting from politically motivated riots protesting the incarceration of former president, Jacob Zuma. The government, and many others, believe that the looting was instigated as part of a dastardly plan to destablise the country. But whether it was premediated or not, the results were catastrophic, with an estimated 50 billion rand knock to an already struggling economy. Approximately 150,000 jobs were put in jeopardy, not to mention a death toll of 337. Sadly, as our lead news story reveals, many salons and beauty businesses in KwaZulu-Natal were badly affected, as were some in Gauteng. At times of crises like this, one has to take comfort wherever one can – at least we can all look forward to Spring, after having endured a viscously cold winter. We include in this issue, a special feature on sun protection products, as well as topical tanning systems. Sunscreens should be a useful staple in any salon or spa’s retail offering, while tanning systems can be offered on the treatment menu and for retail too.

Publisher Mark Moloney mark@probeauty.co.za Managing Director Yolanda Knott 011 781 5970 yolanda@probeauty.co.za Philip Woods Commercial Director 084 759 2024 phil@probeauty.co.za Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 083 411 8512 joanna@probeauty.co.za Marketing Manager Stacey Platt stacey@tetradeevents.com Sales Executive Ruth Baldwin 072 897 6752 ruth@probeauty.co.za Operations Executive Obey Dube obey@probeauty.co.za Design Saveer Sugreem

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970

@probeautyexpo

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com, www.pixabay.com and www.unsplash.com

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INDUSTRY NEWS

Upfront Distribution’s gutted warehouse

Looting takes heavy toll on beauty industry Several salons and beauty businesses in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) and Gauteng were directly affected by the nine-daylong spree of looting that unfolded in July, resulting from political riots protesting the incarceration of former president, Jacob Zuma. Diana and Nick Coleman of long established Durbanbased supplier, Upfront Distribution, awoke on the morning of 12th July to hear that their Cornubia Warehouse had been totally burnt to the ground. Says Nick Coleman: “The entire warehouse was gutted by fire and the stock holding of approximately R5 million destroyed. We are saddened by these unnecessary events but have committed to rebuild and to support our clients and staff. “During the looting, many of our clients and staff lived in fear in Durban and Johannesburg. Images of looting and arson were slowly replaced by images of communities standing together with brooms and garbage bags to clean up stores and streets. We believe that the industry needs to unite and rebuild our lives and businesses so that we can grow the economy.”

Feedback from franchises

All stores within the Sorbet Group in KZN closed during the looting, as well as selected stores in Gauteng. Said Sorbet Group CEO, Linda Sinclair: “We closely monitored the situation with franchise partners and the relevant authorities throughout the event and only reopened salons when safe. “The Group recently donated bread, milk, tinned food, nappies and formula to our franchise partners and citizens [staff] in KZN as part of our efforts to assist those affected.” On 21 July, Esna Colyn, CEO of the Imbalie Beauty Group (comprising the Placecol Skincare Centres, Perfect 10 and Dream Nails salon brands), noted that many of its stores were still closed in KZN. “One of our salons in KZN was looted,” continued Colyn. “Imbalie does have initiatives in place for our salons, such as assistance with rent relief from landlords and payment holidays on pension fund contributions for their employees. We also have implemented additional [confidential]

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incentives.”

Suspension of operations

According to Dane Frost, divisional manager of the KZN branch of the EOHCB (Employers Organisation for Hairdressing, Cosmetology and Beauty), a member salon in Watercrest Mall was totally ransacked. “This salon was so badly destroyed that the owner doesn’t know if she will ever be able to reopen,” said Frost. “Some of our members in KZN had to temporarily suspend their operations during the looting, with mall landlords requesting they close. These salons were shut for a week, which from an employer-employee perspective meant – no business, no pay. This has had a massive negative impact on the industry.” Regarding EOHCB members in Gauteng, divisional manager, Choert Maartens, commented: “Luckily, the majority of our member salons in Gauteng were not too badly affected, other than having to close early to give staff a chance to get home safely. In some instances though, staff weren’t able to get to work for a day or two because of the rioting. “I think it was the salons in Soweto malls like Maponya Mall and Jabulani Mall that were most affected. An EOHCB member salon in Maponya Mall had to shut down completely during the rioting, but has since reopened.”

Fear and anxiety

President of industry body, SAAHSP, Ansa Bronkhorst, reported that SAAHSP was in contact with its members throughout the looting, especially the ones in the affected areas. “Some of these businesses had to close down for the period of the riots. As I spoke to the owners, they were hiding in houses, hearing gunshots all around while their men had to protect the outside areas. I don’t think we realise the fear and anxiety that they had to go through. “Many salons took strain as there was a lot of cancellations due to people being too scared to venture out. I am sure that there are others that we don’t know of, that were also affected, and we can only pray that these businesses survive.”

INDUSTRY NEWS

Photo by Julia Koblitz on Unsplash

World’s first non-animal toxicology testing strategy developed The world’s first toxicology testing strategy without animal testing has been approved by the OECD (Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development). Developed and validated in a joint effort by BASF and Givaudan, the testing strategy consists of three so-called alternative methods. These can be used to predict whether a substance causes allergic reactions in the skin. Unlike in the past, animal testing will no longer be necessary for this. “We have been working towards this goal for more than 10 years,” says Dr Robert Landsiedel, VP, Special Toxicology, BASF. “This is a big step forward. Now we can also use alternative methods to answer more complex toxicological questions without animal testing.” Dr Andreas Natsch, head of in vitro Molecular Screening at Givaudan, adds: “The strategy has a better predictivity for human allergy risks as compared to traditional animal testing.”

Before a new product is approved by the authorities and placed on the market, numerous tests must be carried out. This includes testing whether the product sensitises the skin. Until now, this has always required animal testing. “To replace animal testing, one alternative method is not enough when it comes to skin sensitisation. To assess skin sensitisation, which is caused by a complex process in the organism, we need a combination of three methods,” Landsiedel explains. With the results from these three tests, scientists can predict whether a substance will cause an allergic reaction in humans.” In addition to the testing strategy, another new alternative method has received OECD approval. With the so-called Kinetic Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay, researchers can predict how intense an allergic reaction is. This alternative testing method is a further achievement of the joint effort between Givaudan and BASF and can complement the now approved testing strategy.

New study reveals what celebs spend on skincare Moisturiser is the most popular skincare product used by celebrities, according to a new study of the daily skincare routines of some of the world’s most famous people, conducted by The Derm Review. Ninety-percent of celebs use moisturiser, says the study, which notes a vast disparity between the celeb who spends the most on skincare and the one that spends the least. On opposite ends of the spectrum, Victoria Beckham has an 18-step daily skincare routine and spends over $48,382 per year on products, while George Clooney uses only a single product, which

translates to a mere $0.16 each year. Part of Beckham’s routine includes a Lancer eye cream that costs $450. Jennifer Lopes is famous for her glowing skin – her skincare spend hovers in the middle, at $13,199 per year. Interestingly, Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson spends $7,315 annually on skincare. Says The Derm Review: “Pricing information from each celebrity’s skincare routine was gathered in May 2021. For each category type (moisturiser, serum etc.) we estimated the daily recommended usage of each product to calculate a yearly cost.”

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THE SOLUTION

PROFESSIONAL PROFITABILITY PROVEN RESULTS INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGY SCIENTIFIC SKINCARE

If you did not know, contact us on: 011 305 1600/info@twincare.co.za or visit www.twincare.co.za

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INDUSTRY NEWS

Waterproof and long-lasting make-up may contain PFAS New research reveals that waterproof mascara, liquid lipsticks and foundation may contain cancer-linked ‘forever chemicals’, which could stay in the body for life. Business Insider US reports that according a study published on 15 June 2021 in Environmental Science & Technology Letters, in which researchers tested 231 make-up products for indicators of potentially toxic chemicals called PFAS (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances), most waterproof mascara, liquid lipsticks and foundations tested had indicators of the chemicals. Exposure to PFAS has been linked to an increased risk of cancer and other health problems. Cosmetic products tested in the study came from stores and brands across the US and Canada. The study revealed that about half of them had high fluorine levels, which is how scientists spot the presence of PFAS. Most products did not list PFAS on the label.

Photo by Ahad Uddin on Unsplash

Call for suppliers to help salons affected by looting Suppliers from the beauty, spa and salon sector are urged to offer whatever they can in support of those affected by the looting and destruction of businesses in South Africa. The ‘Reaching Out With Helping Hands’ campaign was conceived by The Spa Consultants to help the industry rebuild itself. Says The Spa Consultants’ Marisa Dimitriadis: “No-one has been left unaffected by the recent violence and looting around the country, but some areas, such as KwaZulu-Natal and Gauteng, have been more severely affected than others. As such, The Spa Consultants urges our beauty industry to step up and support itself. We call on all suppliers, salons, spas and other service providers to offer whatever they can in support of those affected by the looting and destruction of businesses. “If your business has been severely affected, or you know of any business in our industry that has and you believe we are able to assist, please get in touch with us. We are going to give this campaign our all!” Contact 011 312 7840 or WhatsApp: +27 (0)64 977 1862 or info@thespaconsultants.co.za

Photo by Jeppe Hove Jensen on Unsplash

Immune health balancing a top wellness trend A new future for immune health that stops ‘boosting’ and starts balancing, is one of 2021’s top wellness trends to look out for, according to the Global Wellness Summit (GWS). States the GWS: “2021 has not, obviously, been a ‘normal’ year. It began in the darkest global lockdown, but now the world – and the ‘wellness world’ – are opening up. And the indications that wellness has become a dramatically more important consumer value globally are everywhere – from global consumer research to an on-fire investment space.” Other trends identified by the GWS include the jumping of Hollywood into wellness, the rise of spiritual architecture/design and ‘adding more colour to wellness’. The GWS notes that the kinds of ‘wellness’ people are seeking and how they consume it is changing rapidly, with new directions emerging in the travel, immunity, digital wellness, home and built environments, healthcare-meets-wellness, financial wellness, meetings and events, and mental wellness spaces. ‘Microbiomes’ have moved to the very centre of wellness, while the world is seeing innovations in the breathwork space.

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Taking Beauty Businesses to New Heights

The beauty and aesthetics industry may seem like the obvious victim to cripple under the pandemic and tough economic climate. This has not been the reality for the powerhouse partnership between personal professional skincare brand, Juliette Armand (led by ‘Skin Guru’ Tracey Clark) and Amanda Perry of Authentic Beauty, a one-stop beauty distributor. What makes Juliette Armand and Authentic Beauty a standout partnership you may ask? Quite simply, the heart to see beauty professionals not only survive but conquer in these challenging times. This is not just a pie-in-the-sky notion as the two brands’ joint channel of stockists can attest that these entrepreneurs and their teams are all about partnering for success. Says Juliette Armand’s Tracey Clark: “Armed with one-ofa-kind, results-driven In-Salon solutions like Chronos, Thavma and Opsis Skinboosters, which offer a unique topical botox and topical filler solution, as well as good old-fashioned skincare with an aesthetics twist in the Elements range, Juliette Armand has the scope to empower a start-up, right through to an advanced aesthetics practitioner. We offer a solution of In-Salon and retail products that suit each entity’s specific clientele. “Boasting the Best Non Injectable Mesotherapy Award at the 2020 International Aesthetics and Spa Awards, the

Juliette Armand brand is internationally recognized for its incredible results. And, in today’s climate, the consumer is very much drawn to innovative, results producing skin solutions.”

So much more The Juliette Armand and Authentic Beauty partnership offers so much more than standout products that impress clients. Innovative demand generating marketing activity, including Skin Workshop Activations and live demonstrations whereby their stockists’ clients get to experience the products and see the proof firsthand, have given their channel partners a competitive edge when engaging with their client bases. Amanda Perry continues: “These activations have seen channel partners benefit from tens of thousands of rands worth of retail spend and In-Salon treatments being booked. Furthermore, there has been an extraordinary social media explosion, driving exceptional brand awareness and leading to queries long after these activations have been concluded.” She points out that there is an intentional effort to provide hands-on product training, as well as offer impactful business and marketing seminars, to equip the Authentic Beauty and Juliette Armand stockists to be a cut above the rest. In addition, the partnership is not just about a one-time activation event coupled with revolutionary products. All of Juliette Armand and Authentic Beauty stockists get access to digital and physical marketing assets to keep clients intrigued and engaged on a weekly basis. A combination of passion, unique products that provide the wow factor, demand generating activations, marketing tools and transformative training is the proven formulation for success that so many of the Juliette Armand and Authentic Beauty channel partners have enjoyed.

Join the channel Contact Tracey on 083 460 1217 or Amanda on 061 503 8318. Follow us on: Instagram: @juliette.armand.sa or @authenticbeauty_sa Facebook: JulietteArmandSouthAfrica or @authenticbeautyproducts1221

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INDUSTRY NEWS Professional Beauty JHB Expo returns – this October After an absence of over a year due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo will take place at the Gallagher Convention Centre on 24 and 25 October 2021. Africa’s largest trade show for the beauty industry will include the Professional Beauty and Salon International exhibitions, as well as two conventions, namely World Spa & Wellness and Aesthetic Medicine. Says Professional Beauty commercial director, Phil Woods: “We are very excited to once again be able to host our flagship Johannesburg event. Staging expos is at the core of our business and it’s wonderful to get back to our roots. The only other physical event that we have held since April 2020, was our Aesthetic Medicine Conference & Mini Expo, which was very well attended and received. Delegates were clearly delighted to attend such an event after endless months of online events and meetings. “With South Africa’s vaccination roll-out well underway and gaining momentum, and with the number of COVID infections beginning to decrease, we look forward to welcoming the industry to Professional Beauty Johannesburg. All COVID safety and social distancing protocols will be enforced at the event and we encourage people to register in advance at www.probeauty.co.za/register.”

Woods points out that registered delegates will be able to see the latest products, technologies and trends in the beauty, nails, body care, spa, aesthetic medicine and hair sectors. He continues: “Professional Beauty Johannesburg is positioned as the ultimate platform to conduct business, network with industry peers, source suppliers, be exposed to new trends and to learn from the conference sessions. No beauty business owner can afford to miss out.”

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We found that, in addition to slimming properties, the gel has detoxifying properties. We find this to be a highly effective and popular part of our programme.

Dr Hanli Rautenbach, Resident Homoeopath/Director, St Francis Health Centre PORT ALFRED Eastern Cape The Capri pants and gel are very popular among our clients that do body contouring treatments. It is an amazing way to reduce centimetres and to keep skin smooth and firm without much effort.

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Let’s face it, there are very few people in this world who are completely happy with their body shape. The various lockdowns have not helped most of us and working from home gives awesome access to the biscuit tin. An ideal scenario is for your clients to have the ability to reduce fat, change their body shape in particular areas of concern and go about their daily routines. No downtime, no discomfort and an effective, low cost solution, as well as boosting your salon’s retail sales at the same time. The solution is the Patricia Clarke body contouring product range. Patricia Clarke has been offering slimming solutions to salons, spas and clinics since 2001, with a combination of an effective Contouring Gel and body contouring garments.

The Contouring Gel In recent years, the reducing and firming properties of many natural and synthetic substances have received general recognition. The Patricia Clarke Gel has been specially formulated and developed to utilize these properties to the maximum. The active botanical ingredients, with their strengthening, diuretic and stabilizing properties, target the toxins in the adipose fatty tissue, breaking down the fatty tissue by means of absorption by the lymph duct. Unwanted fatty tissue then leaves the body as a waste product. This all helps to maintain good body contouring,

avoiding body miss-shaping and excess body fluid and effective reduction of cellulite and tissue weakness. The treatment does not depend in any way on fluid loss by perspiration, it is the intracellular fluids in the ‘fat tissues’ (adipose) that benefit most. If you combine the Gel with the Patricia Clarke range of body contouring garments, your clients will increase the effectiveness of the treatment and obtain further benefits.

The Garments Patricia Clarke body contouring garments feature a flattering design that provides moderate compression. These garments are unlike any others you’ve seen because they feature Bio-Ceramic technology. Comfortable to wear, they are very effective during any form of exercise, including water activities or just walking around the house. The two most popular items are the Shorts or the longer Capri version. They are comfortable, stylish and they work, simple.

How do the garments work?

Capri Leggings

Help your clients get the body they want! Common Benefits Softer and smoother skin, lessened joint discomfort, increased perspiration, reduced appearance of cellulite, lower risk of injury due to muscles being kept warm, and gradual centimetre loss! The products consist of a heat Maximizing Abdominal Binder, designed to help smooth and contour your abdominal/ lower back area, while providing support. Great for both men and women, the garment comes complete with a handy storage pocket for your phone. Additionally, you can get heat maximizing arm bands to help tone your arms. To lose centimetres in problem areas over a short period of time is a boost to anyone. Following a sensible eating and exercise routine is not essential but will help accelerate and maintain achieved results Contact: Christelle Newsum (011) 793-2321/ 083 631 0388

They reflect your body heat in the form of Far Infrared Rays (FIR). Bio-Ceramics reflect thermal waves (heat) generated by the human body, which are called FIR. Additionally, Bio-Ceramic material also generates FIR, increasing the heat waves penetrating one’s body. This absorbs any perspiration loss.

BUSINESS TIPS

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business. Image by Lebensmittelfotos from Pixabay

What are the benefits of caviar in skincare? Caviar is a natural active ingredient that has been in the skincare market for a little over 10 years and is still increasingly popular due to it offering a complete anti-ageing action, acting on several parameters. Not only is caviar a delicacy to eat but it is pure indulgence for the skin due to its vast benefits. Caviar is known for having high concentrations of proteins, vitamins, minerals, omegas, lipids, amino acids and antioxidants, thus boosting the skin’s natural cellular renewal process and effectively fighting free radicals. Equally, it provides the skin with the necessary building blocks to allow the skin cells to function optimally. Caviar will also assist with natural skin hydration as it is easily absorbed by the skin, due to having a similar make-up to human amino acids. As such, it will improve the skin’s nourishment due to the high levels of re-mineralising omegas 3 & 6. The production of collagen is sped up which, in time, will help to plump and smooth out the skin, creating a firmer, smoother and more youthful skin appearance. Due to the high mineral content and vitamins in caviar, it has the ability to reverse skin damage and/or to slow it down by protecting the skin cells against external aggressors. So caviar truly does

wonders for the skin, especially when added to different skincare products, like cleansers, toners, day and night creams, serums, masks and even exfoliators – you can never have too much of a good thing! It is important to note that the source of caviar is made from the raw eggs of the prized sturgeon fish and in order for us to preserve this fish from extinction, it must be clear that caviar is produced by careful farming in select areas of the world to fulfil environmental and quality standards. Caviar is seen as a high-end, luxurious and effective ingredient that clients are willing to spend money on, even through tough times. Feelings of indulgence, sophistication, quality, luxury and pamper are priceless in today’s world.

Lisa Charlton is Head of Education for Skin and Nailcare at Twincare International, as well as the dedicated National Educator for Matis in South Africa and has been for the past nine years. Charlton’s passion lies in training and she truly believes that ‘Knowledge is Power’. She has been in skincare education for 15 years. DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send you question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

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Watch the Professional Beauty webinar, this will help answer all your questions and help guide you through some of the steps to POPI compliance. Joined by Karl Markwald, director at ESP, and Samantha Lockhart, owner of Myspa Consultants. Our two panelists helped to demystify the POPI Act, making it understandable in practical terms, allowing for business owners to create a protocol. Watch the recording here: https://buff.ly/3dIIkWr

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BUSINESS TIPS

As such, there are simple yet effective things we can offer to corporates that involve holistic solutions and hands on touch. In some cases, this may mean upskilling members of your team, but this is a great time to look into how to grow your team’s additional services. Here are some tips for implementing corporate wellness programmes.

Create the space you need for wellbeing

Photo by RF._.studio from Pexels

The world of

corporate wellbeing & wellness he gradual growth of interest towards corporate wellness/ wellbeing has suddenly peaked in many company strategy and planning sessions. Large organisations are really starting to investigate employee wellbeing programmes to ensure they can assist employees with the new way of working and to retain top talent. This includes appointing wellbeing managers and connecting with spa or clinic owners to offer a service in the business. One would think this is a great opportunity – experts who know wellness merging with experts who know corporate. However, it’s not as easy as you think. Corporate wellness and wellbeing is not as simple as sending a therapist to everyone’s desk for a 5-minute head massage. There needs to be a full programme worked out together with the corporate head of human resources to ensure the spa offering meets the company objectives.

Clutter holds onto negative energy. If you can understand how to Feng Shui a desk or work area, this will allow for a better approach to wellbeing. This can include things like bringing soft elements of colour to the work desk, or even a living pot plant, which brings nature indoors to leverage nature therapy.

Breathwork classes

People forget to breathe. Stress makes us hold our breath and that isn’t great for anyone. Your team could learn simple breathwork exercises to use before a treatment, or in a breathwork class before a big strategy meeting.

Touch in the form of massage

If a therapist is going into the corporate company to offer employee massage, then I recommend it is not done at a desk but in a private meeting room to ensure the employee can disconnect. Even better would be to have the therapist at an away day to ensure there is no office connection at all.

Desk yoga

Not everyone wants to do full yoga with colleagues but a few simple poses, or desk yoga, can make the body feel more at ease throughout the day. A yoga instructor can teach your team simple poses to share with the corporates you are working with.

Read, understand and connect

There are hundreds of studies showcasing how employee wellness programmes improve productivity and overall employee wellbeing. If you are pitching your services to corporates, you need to know these stats, or partner with a business and wellness coach who can help you understand them. In conclusion, we in the industry have the added advantage of understanding the importance of holistic wellbeing. How we tailor make this to offer it in a corporate space is an untapped opportunity.

Lauren Gibson has over 15 years of experience in the professional skincare industry and considers herself an industry change maker and energetic influencer of people, teams and business. She holds a PG Diploma in Management Practice from UCT GSB.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Crisis creates

Opportunity As we all adjust to the new normal, it’s hard to know which changes in client behaviour will be permanent, so it’s time to embrace change and seek feedback, advises Hellen Ward Without getting too spiritual, one can’t really ignore the rules of the universe. The 12 universal laws are: 1. Divine oneness (everything is connected) 2. Vibration (everything has a vibrational frequency) 3. Attraction (what is like unto itself is drawn) 4. Correspondence (as above, so below) 5. Action (manifestation requires aligned action) 6. Cause and effect (every action has a consequence) 7. Compensation (we are rewarded for right action) 8. Perpetual energy (everything is always moving and changing) 9. Relativity (it’s all relative) 10. Polarity (there are two sides to everything) 11. Rhythm (nothing is permanent) 12. Gender (manifestation requires a balance of energies)

As you get older (and potentially wiser!) you realise just how indisputable these laws are. So, how can we apply these wise, ancient learnings to our businesses? A very successful investor friend recently told me how he’d completely reworked some of his business models through the crisis and his mindset seemed to echo the 12 universal laws. “Never waste a crisis,” he said. “Don’t worry about what you can’t directly effect.” Common sense to some but “how do you apply that commercially?” I asked. “It’s about agility, pragmatism, flexibility and passion. One thing is certain, it will never again be business as usual,” came

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the reply. His message is clear – businesses that will not just survive but flourish will have to embrace these principles, to accept the universal laws. We can’t change COVID-19 or how the world has become as a result, but every problem creates an opportunity and a smart business never wastes the opportunity to look at the result of a crisis. Over the past 18 months we have realised just how relevant the old motto of ‘adapt or die’ has become. Salons have to adapt, clients have to adapt, staff have to adapt, landlords have to adapt, and now what is clear is that the way our sector is treated has to adapt. I think it’s fair to say that the whole personal care sector feels like it has been thrown under a bus. It seems to be either feast or famine. We open our salons to stampedes and then once everyone has been ‘done’, the tumbleweed starts blowing again. Maybe it’s time to start looking at our offerings and realise that the way things used to be simply don’t apply anymore. The effect of working from home, coupled with COVID-19 angst, has seen lots of previously loyal customers resolutely stay away from close contact services. Whether this is a permanent shift remains to be seen. But even if 10% to 30% of your customers are reacting in this way, the financial implications could be catastrophic. Ask your clients what they want from you in the postcoronavirus era and adapt your offering and services to suit – that’s the key. There is, however, the Steve Jobs attitude of ‘people don’t know what they want until you give it to them’, but if you temper this with a genuine desire to find out how habits, mindset and demands are different, it’s a good place to start.

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London and a beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF).

BUSINESS TIPS

Do you have an

exit strategy? Every salon owner needs an exit strategy, because at some point, for whatever reason, it will be time to move on from your business, writes beauty business expert Liz McKeon. Image by OpenClipart-Vectors from Pixabay

hether you are an investor or a salon business owner, it is always crucial to think ahead. This also includes considering your exit strategy, which is a planned approach to relinquishing ownership or terminating a situation that will either maximise benefit or minimise damage. For entrepreneurs, an exit strategy refers to a strategic plan on how to sell ownership. Business owners can actually make a substantial profit if they generate a successful exit strategy. Start by assessing your personal and business goals to identify which exit strategy aligns with your future goals.

Benefits of having a strategy in place

√ Planned exits are a lot more favourable than unforeseen ones. √ The longer you withhold investments, the less you’re able to contribute to retirement.

THE LONGER you withhold INVESTMENTS, the less you’re able to contribute TO RETIREMENT. √ You are free to attend to any unexpected health problems without having to stress about what could happen to the salon in your absence. √ You are prepared for unexpected offers. √ If you want to move to a new business, you can sell quickly if your exit strategy is good to go. √ If you find yourself in a situation where you need to raise money quickly, an exit strategy can help. √ There will come a time when personal time takes precedence, and this will help you be

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BUSINESS TIPS

prepared for that.

Fundamental questions

When thinking about and planning your exit strategy, ask yourself the following two questions. 1. How am I going to get my money out of the business? 2. How much money will I get? It is advisable to plan your preferred exit strategy well in advance, as it can be a

SELL AT THE right time, FOR THE RIGHT REASONS – otherwise a buyer will use your CIRCUMSTANCES TO LEVERAGE against you. lengthy process.

Liquidation

This is the ‘close up shop and sell all the assets’ (typically at a lower cost) exit strategy. For a very small salon, especially those that are dependent on the performance of a single individual, liquidation is sometimes the only option, as there’s really nothing else to sell. Not to be seen as a bad option, this is a recommended strategy when the time has come to simply move on. If you choose this route, just remember that you might need to use cash to eliminate debts. It might be advisable to restructure the salon so it can be operated by somebody else – turning it into a salon for sale.

Keeping your business in the family

This is the dream of many salon owners, as keeping your business in the family ensures that your legacy lives on and provides a living for your heirs. The advantage to this is that you may be able to keep a hand in the business in an advisory capacity. However, you need to know that the family members have the required skill, interest and commitment to take over. You can mould successors over time, which will assist in seamless execution of your exit strategy.

Sell your business to manager/ employees

This is ideal, as the employee gets an established business that they are familiar with and enthusiastic about. It’s possible to arrange a long-term buyout, which can increase loyalty and greatly motivate staff to work hard to make the business succeed. Again, this arrangement may allow for you to stay on in an advisory capacity. Handled carefully, this option should have very little

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impact on clients.

Lifestyle company exit

The lifestyle company exit prioritises the profit of the owner without a clear plan for future expansion. By keeping the business expenses at a minimum, you can retain a majority of the profits rather than putting much into helping the business grow. This works best for a small business, allowing you to dissolve the company when it’s no longer turning a profit. Keep in mind that this generally only works if you have a good revenue stream.

Sell your business on the open market

This is the most popular exit strategy option for salon businesses. The business owner puts the salon up for sale for a certain price – and hopefully walks away with the amount of money they want to get for it. A profitable, well run salon should be attractive to buyers and sell quickly. Assets, database, salon name and goodwill can be incorporated when valuing the business for sale, maximising the return to the owner. However, salon businesses can be difficult to value and the selling price may be much lower than expected. If this is your preferred exit strategy, spend time grooming your salon for sale, making it as attractive as possible to potential buyers.

How to get the best price for your salon

Sell at the right time, for the right reasons – otherwise a buyer will use your circumstances to leverage against you. √ Determine what your salon is actually worth – invest in a professional valuation, while accepting that your salon is worth as much as it will fetch in the market place. √ Make sure your house is in order – people want to by a thriving salon business, not a neglected one. √ Keep all business records up to date. √ Make sure the premises is well maintained and attractive to potential buyers. Whichever exit strategy you choose, planning in advance gives you time to do it right and maximise your return on investment.

Liz McKeon is an author, business coach, trainer and mentor, specialising in salon turnaround. Email liz@lizmckeon.com

INTERVIEW

Talking to…

Trevor Steyn Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to Esse founder, Trevor Steyn, about the brand’s role in the certified organic and probiotic skincare markets and about the importance of sustainable practices in the cosmetics industry

Right since inception, Esse has strongly differentiated itself in the South African market, initially as the country’s first certified organic skincare brand and then as South Africa’s first probiotic skincare brand. How have these factors impacted on your marketing and in establishing a footprint locally? Trying to sell organic products in the early 2000s was really tough. We spent most of our time explaining what ‘organic’ meant. With probiotics, it felt a bit easier but there is still a lot of education to do. The South African market is generally keen to try new approaches, so these points of difference were probably worthwhile in establishing the brand.

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INTERVIEW Esse was one of the first companies in the world to launch a probiotic skincare range. What initially triggered your interest in probiotic skincare? Which countries does Esse export to?

The brand is now exported to around 45 countries. We tend to focus on Scandinavia and Northern Europe, where our offering seems to be well-received.

Which is your biggest overseas market? Our largest market is Sweden but we’re seeing strong growth in Ukraine, Finland, the Netherlands and Hong Kong.

Despite all the PR HYPE, most CONVENTIONAL BRANDS are okay with TAKING WATER, PETROCHEMICALS and synthetic chemicals, PUTTING THEM in CHEAP PACKAGING and then using MARKETING TECHNIQUES to justify it all. What prompted you to go the certified organic route?

A large part of the reason for the existence of Esse is to show that a sustainable company is viable in an industry that is quite wasteful. Despite all the PR hype, most conventional brands are okay with taking water, petrochemicals and synthetic chemicals, putting them in cheap packaging and then using marketing techniques to justify it all. We have tried to do things differently and we’re certified organic with EcoCert. They are a good guideline for our formulations, and they also have tight restrictions on packaging. We have recently gone plastic neutral – so for every kilogram of plastic that we use, we recover a kilogram from the ocean and recycle it. Furthermore, we’re also carbon neutral. That said, it has been much more difficult than I thought to build a company that has low environmental impact. We are a long way from perfect and we are always looking at ways in which we can improve.

When I was younger, I thought that chemistry could solve almost any problem. As my understanding of the biological world expanded, I became less certain. I started to realise that applying simple chemicals to very complex ecosystems often led to unintended consequences. DDT (Dichloro-DiphenylTrichloroethane) is a good example – we used it to control mosquitos and it worked well, but the effect of the chemical on the rest of the ecosystem was not acceptable and we ended up hurting ourselves as well. When the first findings of the Human Microbiome Project came out, I understood that every person is a walking ecosystem of human and microbial cells. That was when I started to apply new lines of thinking to skincare products. Single chemicals are risky, so we focused our research on shifting the ecosystem to support diversity. Probiotics seemed the obvious choice. They are natural and have proven efficacy.

Generally speaking, what are the benefits of probiotic skincare products for the skin?

Probiotics are a low risk but effective option for manipulating the skin microbiome. We favour using live probiotics that can form colonies. The strains that are used make a big difference to efficacy and safety. Some benefits of topical probiotics include protection from pathogens, improved barrier function, reducing sensitivity, manufacturing of moisturising factors like Hyaluronic acid, and maintaining the skin pH.

How long did it take for the South African market, which was used to hearing about probiotics in supplements and food stuffs, to accept the idea of probiotics in skincare?

When we started to talk about the skin microbiome in 2011, I think that most of the South African market thought that we’d lost our minds. It’s difficult to grasp that humans need microbes on their skin as much as we need microbes for gut health. It’s a lot easier now that we’re not the only brand talking along these lines and the research has come a long way to back us up.

Looking at the global skincare market – is the percentage of probiotic skincare brands still relatively small?

The current probiotic skincare market is still small but has seen strong growth over the last few years. I think that the probiotic movement will follow a similar path to that of the organic movement – this has ended up diverse, with penetration across all skincare channels. This sector will grow very fast over the next five years. There is plenty of new technology, and the cost of microbiome sequencing is falling fast. Low-cost sequencing will open the opportunity for personalised probiotic solutions.

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INTERVIEW

skincare products with live probiotics?

Almost all cosmetic formulations include preservatives. These are there to kill microbes that might cause the product to spoil. Probiotics are live microbes, so preservatives kill them. We had to work around this and many other issues to deliver a product that is stable at room temperature and can still deliver 1 billion live probiotics at the end of its shelf life.

Do you manufacture the products locally?

Yes, all Esse products are manufactured at our production facility in Richmond, KwaZulu-Natal. We’ve just come through a scary time with the rioting and looting in the region, but hopefully the country is in a better space now.

WHEN WE STARTED to talk about the SKIN MICROBIOME in 2011, I THINK THAT most of the SOUTH AFRICAN MARKET thought that we’d LOST OUR MINDS. It’s difficult to grasp that HUMANS NEED MICROBES ON THEIR SKIN as much as we need microbes FOR GUT HEALTH. Please talk about your strategy of using indigenous ingredients. I trained as an organic chemist and when I started the company, I was involved in research on new pharmaceuticals from indigenous plants. Our base is in South Africa, which is one of the world’s plant biodiversity hotspots. We have not commercialised these plants nearly as well as the rest of the world. By generating a market for our plant biodiversity, we are able to attach value to the harvests, encouraging their protection and generating valuable income for local African communities.

Esse is believed to be the first company in the world to have created a probiotic foundation. Please comment on this enormous achievement.

We haven’t heard of any make-up lines moving into the probiotic realm yet. When we formulated, we knew that it was essential that the foundations were

microbiome-friendly and that we had the technology available. So it made sense to offer probiotics as actives. I’m sure that there will be other brands soon, so I guess that we had better enjoy it while it lasts.

What was the motivation for developing the foundation?

Esse has always been driven by anti-ageing skincare, so the step into colour cosmetics was outside our comfort zone. In a way, our clients pushed us in this direction. We are very focused on the skin microbiome and we go to great lengths to protect it with our products. Our clients were rightly concerned that they would undo all the work that we had done if they applied a synthetic foundation that was not pH balanced. We felt we had to provide them with a reliable option.

A recent innovation for Esse has been the introduction of live probiotics into facial treatments. Please comment.

Our signature facial does use live probiotics. At the beginning of the treatment, the therapist mixes the vial of bacteria with a buffer solution. The probiotics then activate over the next 30 minutes during the first part of the facial and they are applied under an alginate mask toward the end of the treatment. This creates an anaerobic environment and gives the Lactobacillus a head-start in colonising the skin.

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INTERVIEW How have your salons responded to this innovation? The treatment has been very popular and effective.

I believe that since inception, the brand has always been ecofriendly, believed in biodiversity, and been cruelty-free and vegan. Please comment.

It is not that surprising that what turns out to be good for us is often good for the planet. I think that now more than ever, we can see how our changed habits impact the environment. With the current inactivity around the globe, we have seen some immediate swings in air quality and nature venturing into spaces it had vanished from. Of course, these changes would need to remain in place to have a lasting effect, but it certainly demonstrates a principle. At Esse, we try to look at the bigger picture.

THE COMPANY EXISTS to show AN ALTERNATIVE to ‘BUSINESS-AS-USUAL’ – the UNADULTERATED GREED that puts PROFIT AHEAD of environmental concerns.

The company exists to show an alternative to ‘business-as-usual’ – the unadulterated greed that puts profit ahead of environmental concerns. The range is certified organic to COSMOS standards by EcoCert. It is also cruelty free, vegan and fair-trade. We also audit our carbon emissions on an annual basis (everything from employees’ emissions to get to and from work, right down to the transport of goods) and offset any extra carbon load. As mentioned above, we’ve also just gone plastic neutral. So that’s what makes Esse sustainable from an environmental viewpoint, but there is also the long-term health of our clients to consider. Here again, organic, microbiome

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friendly formulations are key to ensuring that the Esse products you apply to your skin are not putting you at risk in the long term – many people invest in skincare for instant results, that is not the Esse way. We look to sustainable, long term skin health without unforeseen side-effects.

How does the brand give back to the community?

We do support small NGOs in the Richmond community but mostly we partner with the communities that harvest plant material for our products. A recent project was to supply school uniforms and other accessories for a community in Namibia through the Orupembe Conservancy. Schooling is free, but the kids need uniforms in order to attend. This is a tough time for these communities with no tourism and long droughts. We were lucky to have the opportunity to help.

What awards has Esse won?

Some of the recent awards include: • Dutch Beauty Awards 2021 – Resurrect Serum in the category Best Salon Product. • Beauty & Wellness Award 2021, Beauty Insider Singapore – Esse Cocoa Exfoliator for Best Natural Organic Face Exfoliator. • Beauty & Wellness Award 2021, Beauty Insider Singapore – Resurrect Serum for Best Natural Sensitive Care. • UK Global Makeup Awards 2021 – Probiotic Serum Gold Award for Best Innovative Beauty Product. • UK Global Makeup Awards 2021 – Foundation Silver Award for Best Foundation • Scandinavian Global Makeup Awards 2020 – Resurrect Serum Gold Award for Best Anti-Ageing Product. • Scandinavian Global Makeup Awards 2020 – Esse Skincare Gold Award for Best Vegan Beauty Brand. • Scandinavian Global Makeup Awards 2020 – Hyaluronic Serum Gold Award for Editor’s Choice. • Scandinavian Global Makeup Awards 2020 – Esse Skincare Silver Award Best Organic Beauty Brand. • Scandinavian Global Makeup Awards 2020 – Foundation Silver Award Best Foundation.

What are your plans for the future?

Over the last few years, Esse has invested heavily in training for skincare professionals, and we will be launching a course on the skin microbiome for therapists over the next few weeks. It is a 5-day course, and it covers the science of the microbial ecosystem on skin and also probiotic treatments for different conditions. We have also been working hard on new product lines that will be exclusive to therapists and the first one will be available in September this year. As our competitors drift toward a more retail approach, we feel that we would like to move in the opposite direction and really focus on therapists and dermatologists. Overall, I guess that we will keep learning from nature and keep doing the best research that we can.

IT IS TIME TO REMOVE THE MASK. #hydrofacial #H2-glowbeauty

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SPA FOCUS

A ‘Fresh’ take on

Spas he first Fresh Wellness spa opened at The CellarsHohenort in May 2012 in Constantia, a picturesque wine-producing suburb of Cape Town. In September the following year, Fresh Wellness launched at The Plettenberg in the Western Cape seaside town of Plettenberg Bay. Both hotels form part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World Group. Fresh Wellness owner and founder, Jean-Mari Ferreira, had never considered opening a second spa until approached by the hotel group that owns The CellarsHohenort, The Collection by Liz Mc Grath. Says Ferreira: “When the group restructured their hotel in Plettenberg Bay, they approached me with an offer to take over the spa and open another Fresh Wellness. I think that within the hotel industry, more and more property owners/ hoteliers are realising that the spa industry has become increasingly specialised and are opting to rather outsource this service in order to ensure a high standard of offering to their guests.” She notes that Fresh Wellness was about to expand in terms of opening another spa just before the COVID-19 pandemic hit and will resume expansion plans once it is over.

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Founder of the Fresh Wellness Spa Group, Jean-Mari Ferreira, talks about the challenges of operating two, 5-star hotel spas during a pandemic and about the importance of touch therapies in today’s world

I THINK THAT within the HOTEL INDUSTRY, more and MORE PROPERTY OWNERS/ hoteliers are REALISING THAT the spa industry has become INCREASINGLY SPECIALISED and are opting to rather OUTSOURCE THIS SERVICE in order to ensure a HIGH STANDARD of OFFERING to their guests.

SPA FOCUS

Client shift

Both Fresh Wellness spas have experienced a shift in clientele over the past two years or more, with a lot of younger clients making use of the services. Ferreira maintains that as millennials, these younger clients approach the spa experience a lot differently than some of the older guests. The spa teams have had to adapt their approach to this market in their service offering, as well as products, to cater to these needs. It’s become evident that there is a big need for touch therapies. Comments Ferreira: “I believe that we live in a ‘touch hungry’ society and that people crave human connection. This is the true gift of therapy, being able to establish that point of connection with a client and spending time with them in such a way that they leave feeling like they have just been on a holiday.

This is the TRUE GIFT OF THERAPY, being able to establish that POINT OF CONNECTION with a client and SPENDING TIME with them in SUCH A WAY that they leave feeling like they have just BEEN ON A HOLIDAY.

Spa reception at The Plettenberg

Spa reception at The Cellars-Hohenort

“Touch therapy is an extremely powerful tool and, if used correctly, will ensure that guests return to you. Unfortunately, our industry has fallen prey to many who think it is easy money and that anyone can do what we do. This is a dangerous assumption as it cannot be further from the truth. Therapy performed correctly is a specialised craft and a powerful tool that will leave the therapist just as enriched as the guest. Our guests are becoming increasingly more sensitive to our approach in the treatment room and can quickly distinguish between a true therapist and one who merely wants to get the job done.”

For that reason, Fresh Wellness puts a lot of time into staff training, grooming each therapist to become the best therapist she can be. Comments Ferreira: “Our belief is that a genuine therapist has a unique touch and brings something incredibly special to the table. If you can train and develop that and give therapists the freedom to express themselves in areas of strength, your clients will always leave happy. To achieve this takes a lot of hard work, incredible dedication and a dream team. I am blessed to have all of that in place and strive to keep it that way.”

Unique identities

Even though both spas have exactly the same menu, each spa has its own distinct personality, according to Ferreira. “The personality of a spa is rooted in its team and surroundings and that makes every spa unique, regardless of the brand. Of course the spa manager plays a major role in the dynamics of the daily operation.” Chervon Morgan manages the spa at The CellarsHohenort Hotel, with Samantha Jafta the spa manager at The Plettenberg Hotel. Ferreira describes both managers as ‘remarkable, talented and passionate women who are not only leaders but also amazing therapists, striving to lead both their teams by example’. At Fresh Wellness at The Cellars-Hohenort, the décor of the spa is upmarket, chic and slightly more formal than the spa at The Plettenberg because of its location, being situated in a heritage building that used to be one of the very first farms in Constantia and is over 200 years old.

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SPA FOCUS

“The actual spa used to be the farm’s stables, and this gives the spa a unique ambience. It is also situated next to a magnificent rose garden, which imbues an almost a magical feel. There is a lot of artwork in the spa and the rooms are naturally darker, giving it a very relaxing feel. We make use of a lot of blues, greys and aquatic greens to create a calming effect in the spa. In addition, we also love playing with lighting as this instantly creates atmosphere,” explains Ferreira. Situated right next to the ocean, The Plettenberg hotel boasts some incredible views. An abundance of natural light and breezier décor give the spa a more ‘beachy’ feel. Windows are kept open as much as possible for guests to enjoy the fresh sea breeze. This spa also makes use of blues, greys, whites and aquatic greens. The décor includes some beautiful pieces of art, along with unique mirrors made by a local artist.

Treatment room at The Plettenberg Spa

Adjusting to the pandemic

Although Fresh Wellness didn’t change its treatment menu in any way when COVID struck, the teams have been acutely aware of the various lockdown levels and infection waves at all times and have adjusted how treatments are offered in the spa accordingly. During the 3rd wave, no unnecessary movement is allowed in the spas and use of wet areas has been suspended. Guests are now offered the option of ‘open air’ treatments, weather permitting. The spas were shut for five months in 2020, but there was a steep incline in business from January 2021 until May, with an immediate decline once the COVID infection figures started to climb. However, there has been a growth in Spa Gift Voucher sales.

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Says Ferreira: “We also check in with our regular guests whenever we place a product order to find out if they need some more homecare products. Because guests can’t enjoy their facials and skin treatments as much, we have noticed that they tend to invest a little more in their homecare products to make up for this in some way.” When South Africa was moved back to Adjusted Alert Level 4 of lockdown, it impacted heavily on the spas’ ability to operate. Ferreira elaborates: “There is this constant tension to render services at a 5-star level, whilst adhering to all protocols in order to operate as safely as possible. The staff morale hits a new low every time the country goes into

THERE IS this constant tension to RENDER SERVICES at a 5-star level, whilst adhering to ALL PROTOCOLS in order to operate as SAFELY AS POSSIBLE. a new wave. People are emotionally strained and because we are considered a higher risk industry, since our work involves touch, there is even greater tension in our daily operations every time South Africa’s infection figures rise. My managers place an even stricter focus on the daily hygiene and sterilisation protocols within the spa and my focus shifts to constantly invest in uplifting the staff morale and to cut business costs as far as possible to absorb the inevitable loss of income. I’m happy to say that we have been extremely privileged to be able to retain all of our staff to date.” Ferreira herself is involved in the spas’ operations to a degree, in that that although she doesn’t manage all the details directly anymore, she is still involved in what happens at each spa on a daily basis. She works very closely with her spa managers to ensure that they receive all the support that they need to execute their roles within the business.

Evolution

It’s not surprising to learn that Ferreira’s background has been instrumental in shaping the Fresh Wellness spa brand. After studying Health & Beauty Therapy and obtaining her diploma, Ferreira worked as a junior therapist for Dr Nanita Dalton, a leading aesthetic doctor based in Gauteng. “I gained a lot of knowledge about this sector of the industry as I worked with the best, and in 2010 I became the practice manager,” she explains. “Soon thereafter I opened the doors to my first spa. Because of my strong aesthetic background, I naturally placed a strong emphasis on aesthetic treatments in my spa menu, but realised that this was not necessarily what our local and international market wanted. So I had to shift my focus and pay careful attention to the needs of our guests and created a menu to address that. To this day, nine years down the line, we re-look at our menu every year and shape our offering as we go.”

SPA FOCUS

Touchless Therapies

– here to stay? In a world where ‘distance’ has become a given, the beauty and spa world is looking for new ways to innovate and make close-contact services like manicures, massages and facials, safer. But should we be doing that, asks Marisa Dimitriadis

tress levels are at an all-time high and consumers are desperate for anything that makes them feel better. Yes there are many options of high end and extremely innovative equipment to offer very powerful solutions, but the reality is that the pandemic has left many businesses in a position where investment into expensive equipment is not an option right now. It’s a case of being in survival mode. You will no doubt have two types of clients

right now. The clients who are nervous and asking about safety protocols, and those who need destressing and calmness without worrying too much about being touched. In fact, the feedback I am getting globally is that when there is an ‘infection wave’, then no matter what you offer, whether touchless or not, the consumer stays away. And when the wave drops, there is a huge increase in demand for treatments, most of which involve massage, which is a close contact service. Psychologists have a term for the feelings of deprivation and abandonment the world is experiencing at the moment – ‘skin hunger’. And who is best to cure this? We are.

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SPA FOCUS

tender touch of others can also lower blood pressure, decrease the level of stress hormones (such as cortisol) and trigger the release of the same kind of opiates as painkilling drugs. Premature babies gain weight when rubbed lightly from head to foot. Massages reduce pain in pregnant women. People with dementia who are hugged and stroked are less prone to irritability and depression. I love these words that Professor Moran wrote: “Touch is a universal language”. By offering therapist-free, ‘touchless’ and ‘low touch’ options alongside your regular treatment menus, you will be able to deliver effective COVID-compliant experiences that provide complete peace of mind for clients that are more nervous. Here are some options.

LED (Light Emitting Diode) Phototherapy

SHINRIN YOKU or forest BATHING is described as simply BEING IN NATURE and CONNECTING with nature through SIGHT, HEARING, TASTE, SMELL AND TOUCH.

This technology stimulates the skin’s natural repair process by accelerating cell renewal and resolving a broad spectrum of skin concerns. LED can be done as a standalone, touchless treatment for 20 minutes, or added to any skin treatment to boost the effects. However, the skin needs to be clean and free from any product for LED, so is it completely touchless? Who cleans the skin and how?

Guided meditations

In guided meditations, the instructor tells the participant what to focus on in the meditation. It keeps the meditation focused and can be done virtually as well as in person. This is a completely touchless therapy as it involves speaking only.

Reiki

A form of energy healing that originated in Japan, reiki is one of the best known touchless therapies. It does not involve touch and is said to work through the transfer of universal energy when the practitioner holds their palms over the recipient. The word reiki comes from the Japanese words ‘rei’ (universal) and ‘ki’” (life energy) and stems from a phrase meaning, ‘mysterious atmosphere, miraculous sign’. This therapy is based on the belief that stagnant energy is associated with physical illness and emotional pain. Reiki improves the energy flow, enhances relaxation, reduces pain, speeds up healing and more.

Water massage beds Photo by Luis de Rio from Pexels

First sensation

In The Guardian newspaper, Professor Joe Moran wrote: “The power of touch – is this the sense we’ve missed most?” He speaks of touch as our first sensation when we are born. The practice of healing massage had emerged in India, China and South East Asia by the third millennium BCE, before spreading to the west. Asclepius, the Greek God of Healing, cured people by touching them. The word ‘surgeon’ originally meant hand healer, from the Greek for hand (kheir) and work (ergon). Known to boost the immune system, the

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These are amazing and there is a variety of beds with various features, such as heated beds, personalised massage programmes (depending on the outcome needed), personalised sounds/ music and even VR (Virtual Reality) whilst having a massage. The client is fully clothed and can choose to be snuggled in a blanket, or to simply lie on top of the bed. It is a completely touchless system but investment is high as the technology is incredible.

Vibrational sound healing

Sound healing is a practice that uses voice or sacred instruments like gongs, Tibetan singing bowls and tuning forks to create vibrational sounds believed to alter brain waves, release energetic blockages, and induce states of ease and harmony. Practitioners believe it can relieve ailments like anxiety and insomnia, synchronise brain waves, and restore vibratory frequencies of cells.

SPA FOCUS

Shinrin yoku

Like reiki, forest bathing originated in Japan. It is the simple practice of mindfully immersing oneself in nature. ‘Shinrin’ means forest and ‘yoku’ means bath. It’s described as simply being in nature and connecting with nature through sight, hearing, taste, smell and touch. This is incredible and powerful if you have access to nature in a semi-private manner where clients can have these baths.

Pressotherapy

A treatment used to exert compression on the lower and upper limbs, similar to the movements of a massage. This is done using a device that performs intermittent and sequential inflating of accessories that wrap around the parts of the body to be treated. It improves blood circulation and aims to reduce swelling and aching in various parts of the body. Most typically used on the legs, it can be applied to most of the body. Depending on the setting used, this can be a very relaxing treatment as the units generate a controlled compression on the body parts concerned, inflating and deflating intermittently and sequentially. Another fully touchless treatment but you do need a practitioner to put the units on the body and set the parameters on the device.

The WORLD’S LARGEST study of touch, ‘THE TOUCH TEST’, RESEARCHED THE MONTHS from JANUARY TO MARCH 2020 and found that 54% OF PEOPLE have too little touch IN THEIR LIVES. Remarkably, this WAS PRE-PANDEMIC.

MicroHydrabrasion

This facial treatment device offers unmatched results with no down time and is almost touchless. It delivers exfoliation, cleansing, extraction, peeling and intense hydration and is anti-ageing. The best part is that it’s a medical grade resurfacing treatment, which is perfect for a spa and wellness environment as its super relaxing and delivers the results the consumer is looking for. A practitioner is needed to operate the machine but there is very little human contact with the skin.

Photo by Anete Lusina from Pexels

High tech vs touch

There are numerous advanced touchless technologies available now for those wanting to really get high tech and super modern in their offering. These include a single person cryotherapy chamber, and individual infrared sauna device, body contouring chairs, virtual reality pods offering deep brain massages, and dry floatation meditation beds, to name a few. Don’t expect touch to go away, though. The world’s largest study of touch, ‘The Touch Test’, commissioned by Wellcome Collection in collaboration with BBC Radio 4, researched the months from January to March 2020 and found that 54% of people have too little touch in their lives. Remarkably, this was pre-pandemic. While no-touch or low touch services are ideal now, they’ll likely be a complement to massages and other high-touch spa services after COVID. Don’t underestimate the power of touch.

Marisa Dimitriadis if the founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. Email marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

Our express self-tan products deliver on their name, giving you a flawless tan in a matter of hours. Skinny Tan’s gradual self-tan products, on the other hand, allow for a slower, more controlled development of colour that is easier to maintain in the long run. Skinny Tan’s express self-tan products offer the gorgeous colour instantly ideal for a wedding, party or event for which you do not require the tan to last very long. Thus, if it is quick colour you are after, Skinny Tan’s express self-tan products are for you; if you want a tan you can maintain without much fuss over a long period of time, opt for the Skinny Tan gradual-self tan products.

The results of an independent, brand-disguised survey of 50 volunteers also reported that your eye-catching bronze body is just 24 hours away with Skinny Tan’s range of natural products.

93%

92%

Reported that their Skinny Tan body looked better

SKINNY

TAN

WITH

WERE

OUR

VERY

95%

Reported that it smelt better than other tanners

98%

10 REASONS TO HAVE SKINNY TAN ON YOUR SHELVES:

Reported it was gentle on their skin Skinny Tan is in fact fool-proof. No really, you can be streak-free without so

18-24 4.3%

much as a hint of orange that’ll leave your co-workers wondering where you’d jetted off to over the weekend.

45-54 12%

25-34 yrs 52.2%

PLEASED

SERVICES

35-44yrs 27.2%

Majority Women choose Skinny Tan. Above Graph shows age groups

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Containing up to 99% naturally derived ingredients Cruelty-free and vegan friendly fake tan flawless finish & naturally tanned skin colour with no visible streaks no orange and an amazing coconut & vanilla fragrance gradual tan, instant tan and an express tan your choice of creams, mousses and oils Paraben & Sulphate free All about Real Women and promoting the body confidence of all Easy to apply with the Dual Mitt Skin nourishing formulas.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Most 5* rated Skinny Tan Product that gives you a gorgeous natural-looking tan while making you appear younger. Long-lasting tan

9/10 said Wonder Serum smelt better than other self-tanners they've tried 4/5 said Wonder Serum made their skin appear more youthful 4/5 said Wonder Serum lasted for 10 days and faded without being patchy

NO orange - guaranteed It smells great!!!

14,265 Verified Reviews Made from naturally derived ingredients

"This tanner is absolutely

NO skin drying

amazing it’s so hydrating on dry skin because it’s got coconut water inside and it gives the most beautiful flawless tan"

NO streaking, ever

— INFLEUNCER SAYLA DEAN

NO animal testing

Before & After Results

Helps smooth skin

Increase your salon’s turnover by offering Skinny Tan as a retail product. No more time spent on applying tans. Skinny Tan is so easy to use your customers can do it themselves.

BECOME A SKINNY TAN RETAIL PARTNER NOW CONTACT US ON : 021 913 3962 or EMAIL US: info@skinnytan.co.za | Distributed by FMCG1 Sales |

AS SEEN IN:

online @ probeauty.co.za

@SkinnyTanSA

Available at Clicks stores, Dis-Chem pharmacies, independent stockists, Takealot.com & www.skinnytan.co.za & 35 www.betterforyou.co.za

SUNSCREENS & TANNING SYSTEMS

Sunny side up

As the spring and summer months approach, we look at some of the top professional sun protection products on the market, as well as tanning systems for those salon clients who want golden skin without having to sun bathe Esse

The Esse Sunscreen is free of synthetic chemical sunscreen ingredients. It uses natural ingredients and is certified organic, meaning compliance with the Ecocert COSMOS standards. Apart from tight ingredients and packaging controls, these standards enforce a minimum percentage of organic ingredients, which are free from agricultural herbicides and pesticides. Esse believes this is not only better for the environment, but also better for skin. This product is formulated with coated zinc oxide (0% nano particles), which screens out UV rays but is nearly transparent on application. Say the Esse team: “One of only two sunscreen ingredients deemed safe by the FDA, this ingredient is included along with anti-oxidants from myrothamnus, rooibos and olive leaf extract to mop up the free radicals generated by sun exposure. “Esse’s sunscreen is formulated to support the skin microbiome. The microbiome is the sum of the microbes in and on your body. They work with your human cells to manage the intricate chemistry that keeps you healthy. The microbes that take shelter in and on our skin make up your skin microbiome. “Your skin’s microbiome is susceptible to your skincare inputs – you can support it with microbiome considerate products or you can inadvertently disrupt it. Factors that negatively affect your microbiome include excessive preservative inclusion, incorrect pH balance and synthetic chemical ingredients.” Esse points out that the common sunscreen ingredient oxybenzone has been banned in Hawaii. “It is devastating to coral reefs and ocean wildlife and has been under the spotlight with regards to human safety as well. An estimated 14,000 tons of sunscreen is believed to be deposited in oceans annually.”

online @ probeauty.co.za

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

The Original, INFUSED Argan Oil Spray Tan 30 Minute, 1, 2 & 4 Hour Fast Acting Tans

Harnessing the important properties of naturally-derived and ethically-sourced ingredients from across the globe, the MoroccanTan range work effortlessly to create nourished skin and an envious all-over glow. Through unrivalled properties unearthed in Pure Organic Argan Oil, it is the culmination of this powerful antioxidant, Organic Rosehip Oil, Organic Aloe Vera and a multitude of premium ingredients, that our renowned range ensures a deeper, richer and longer lasting seamless tan. Performance is paramount, and MoroccanTan leaves nothing to chance. Our in-house state of the art laboratory is responsible for creating proprietary world first technologies such as, MoroccanBlend, DermalLock, Moisture Lock, FT100 and Enhanced Bronzers to create customised applications, which are both fast acting, luxurious and gentle on the skin. Recognising that beauty is far from skin deep, with each MoroccanTan experience, so too is reinforced the brand’s philosophy of the importance of skincare, delivering a nourishing treatment with each application. Our non-oily, quick drying and Paraben, PEG-free products work to achieve a flawless, refined finish that leaves the skin feeling soft, smooth and intensely hydrated. Cruelty-free and vegan-friendly, MoroccanTan offers a range of shades to suit all desires – from deep, ashy brown to rich violet bronzers that adapt to individual skin tones, that all ensure the flawless rich finish that looks and feels as every tan should.

Alida: 083 539 7227

online @ probeauty.co.za

sales@moroccantan.co.za

www.moroccantan.co.za

SUNSCREENS & TANNING SYSTEMS

Matis

City Mood + is Matis’ global photo protector that protects the skin against all light pollution (UV rays, infrared light and blue light) and thus prevents premature photoageing of the skin. It contains Phyto Protective Plant Complex, which has a high concentration of phenylpropanoids (found in plants). These are highly effective in absorbing UVA and UVB rays. City Mood + prevents the breakdown of elastin in the skin. Cranberry extract, rich in polyphenols, contains a large amount of flavonoids and gives this product its antioxidant properties. It helps the skin to preserve its youthfulness. City Mood + can be used in two ways: the first application can be over moisturiser and under foundation. Then, during the day, it can be reapplied as often as needed over foundation, using tapping and pressing movements. This anti-pollution sunscreen provides a protective shield of 50, as well as anti-oxidant properties, making it highly effective for all skins, including the most sensitive.

Juliette Armand

Juliette Armand Sunfilm meets the real needs for sun protection. This SPF 30 product is an oil free, light, tinted sunscreen face gel for all skin types. It offers a broad spectrum of sun protection from UVA, UVB and IR radiation. Enriched with calming and special antioxidants, Sunfilm relieves skin irritation and protects the skin from oxidative stress and photoageing. Easily absorbable, it is water resistant and has a soft and silky feeling. The Juliette Armand labs have developed products of full light protection to form a shield against the entire spectrum of sun rays. Sunfilm contains powerful and specialised antioxidants which, unlike common antixodidants, can function effectively during their exposure to sun. The combination of sunscreen and antioxidant protection with repair and healing action make the products suitable for the most demanding conditions, such as high radiation, chemical exfoliation, sensitive skin, urban environmental pollution, sea, sports, sailing, winter ski and more.

Guinot

From Guinot, the Youth Perfect Finish SPF50 can be compared to a BB cream as it provides light coverage for the face, with the cream releasing colour upon contact to perfectly match every skin tone. Immediately following application, the complexion appears radiant and more youthful. When used daily, the cream restores youthfulness and firmness, evens skin tone and minimises dark spots. The skin is also protected from photoageing, which is premature ageing of the skin caused by repeated exposure to UV radiation, primarily from the sun but also from artificial UV sources. This product contains vitamin C to smooth the skin and conceal imperfections due to pigmentation. It also boosts the synthesis of elastic fibres. The Sun Logic Face Balm SPF50 from Guinot is for sensitive areas of the face and provides a very high protection formula. It includes melanin, known for protecting against blue light and its harmful effects on skin ageing. Elastoprotectine protects the elastic fibres in the skin.

online @ probeauty.co.za

SUNSCREENS & TANNING SYSTEMS

DermaFix Beauté Pacifique

A modern anti-age SPF30 sunscreen for face and décolleté, Stay Beautiful from Beauté Pacifique features a unique combination of five UV filters that efficiently protect against both UVA and UVB radiation. The product helps prevent the sunburn and sun damage that would otherwise age and harm the skin prematurely. A strong antioxidant anti-age effect is provided from the resveratrol and procyanidines in Beauté Pacifique’s patented Chilean Grape Seed Extract (GSPE), along with moisturising and soothing vitamin E. Comprehensive medical documentation proves that both resveratrol and procyanidin can delay ageing and prolong the cells’ lifespan – and therefore this product keeps the skin young and healthy for a longer time.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Environ

The RAD Shield® Mineral Sunscreen SPF15 is a light-weight transparent mineral sunscreen that combines the powerful physical reflectors zinc and titanium with antioxidants and other essential ingredients to protect the face and body against UV (UVA & UVB broad-spectrum) and IR defence. It is suitable for all skin types. As its name suggests, the RAD Antioxidant Sun Cream SPF15 is enriched with essential antioxidants, as well as sun reflectors and absorbers that work together to protect the face and body against the damaging effects of the sun. Suitable for all skin types, it provides UVA & UVB broad-spectrum protection and contains titanium dioixide, beta-carotene and vitamins C+E, which help the body to fight free radicals. Also from Environ, Alpha Day Lotion is a creamy, hydrating SPF15 face and body sunscreen containing sun absorbers and reflectors that work together to protect skin from the effects of the sun and harsh environmental influences. The combination of physical and chemical sunscreens offers broad protection against UVA + UVB rays. This product contains lactic acid, found naturally on the skin as a moisturiser, and also offers assistance in improving the appearance of uneven skin tone.

Regular exposure to both UV and HEV-light (blue light) has been shown to cause cellular damage to the skin, leading to the breakdown of collagen and elastin. One should therefore seek out a broadspectrum sunscreen that offers effective high protection against both UVA/UVB as well as HEV-light. The DermaFix brand offers approved high protection sunscreen in four formulations, including DermaFix DermaShield SPF 40. This is an oil-free, non-greasy formulation, providing physical protection against harmful light radiation. DermaFix DermaShield SPF 50 and the MD Prescriptives SPF50 both provide the benefit of broadspectrum protection within a water-resistant formulation, protecting the skin against sun and light damage, both in and out of the water. The DermaFix BB Cream SPF 20 is particularly good in providing defence against HEV-light caused by cell phones and computers, along with offering high protection against UVA and UVB. Antioxidant protection against free-radical damage that comes with both UV and HEV-light exposure will further encourage skin health, as the skin is protected on a cellular level. The use of DermaFix Ferulic + C + E, a boosted antioxidant formulation with high-dose vitamin C is therefore recommended, providing skin brightening benefits whilst facilitating the upregulation of collagen and elastin production for a healthier skin. Regular application alongside your use of sunscreen is essential.

SUNSCREENS & TANNING SYSTEMS

Tanning systems Skinny Tan

MoroccanTan

A new product in the MoroccanTan range is the Instant Dry Oil, positioned as the key to colour and healthy, hydrated skin. Infused with pure Argan oil and a powerful probiotic blend, MoroccanTan Instant Dry Oil works to enhance the radiance of the complexion by stimulating the skin’s natural defences. With a 48-hour hydration complex, ultra-bronzers and boosted melanin tanning technologies, this fast absorbing oil delivers a continual surge of hydration, resulting in healthy, luminous and protected skin. This unique formula promotes vitality and delivers a darker, more natural and intense finish, with the skin emerging supple, smooth and deeply bronzed. Suitable for all skin types, the fast drying formula delivers instant colour and will continue to develop over time.

Skinny Tan started as a true, home grown tanning brand inspired by the concept of creating a range of tanning products that could be enjoyed by every shape, size and skin type. Cruelty free, suitable for vegans, formulated with hydrating anti-ageing and anti-oxidant ingredients, the Skinny Tan range includes pre-tan primers, exfoliating and tanning mitts, a choice of different mousse shades suited to the various skin tones and the brand’s unique Tan and Tone Oil, which reduces the appearance of cellulite. This can be topped up with the Skinny Tan After Glow, which is a tan extender. All products are of natural origin, nourishing, hydrating and 100% streak-free. Skinny Tan’s Protect & Glow lotions and sprays – available in SPF30 and SPF50 options – have taken sun protection a giant leap ahead. Protect & Glow allows you to still build a tan in the sun, while simultaneously blocking harmful rays. This sun protection first combines a high calibre, 5-star UVB sun-block with Skinny Tan’s gradual tanning technology. Every time you add protection, you also get the tanning agent. The product is simply spritzed onto the skin and rubbed in evenly. Also from Skinny Tan, the award-winning Wonder Serum is the ultimate tanning treatment – a fast acting, easily absorbed hydrating silk serum that helps you look younger. Wonder Serum is the first silky serum tanner for face and body that works as a leave on, full-body anti-ageing treatment, sinking in skin-kind anti-ageing actives for glowing, tanned younger looking skin instantly and with results that last up to 10 days. This silky serum applies quickly and dries in just two minutes. It results in a perfect, iridescent glowing tan that helps cover blemishes, hides the appearance of cellulite, evens out skin tone and develops over eight hours to give you a rich, natural, streak-free colour that is indistinguishable from a real tan. online @ probeauty.co.za

JOHANNESBURG

GALLAGHER CONVENTION CENTER 24 -25 OCTOBER 2021

REGISTER FOR FREE TO SAVE THE R250 ENTRY FEE PROBEAUTY.CO.ZA/REGISTER STRICTLY TRADE AND PROFESSIONAL VISITORS ONLY Professional Beauty is open only to trade and professional visitors over the age of 16. Under no circumstances will prams, babies, pushchairs or buggies be permitted. No exceptions will be made. Face coverings will be mandatory inside the venue online @ probeauty.co.za

Entry without a face covering will not be permitted.

Results are not negotiable, ever!

Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels

AESTHETIC MEDICINE

With all the uncertainty currently embracing our world, how do we manage to still achieve the same phenomenal results on our clients’ skin without them necessarily having the same budgets as they did prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, asks Karen Ellithorne efore the pandemic struck, aesthetic treatments were booming, says Estee Veale, a qualified aesthetician, advanced laser therapist and also a partner at The Longevity Centre in Fourways, Johannesburg. “Nothing quite prepared us for a year of mostly isolation that forced many people into working and socialising primarily online,” says Veale. She continues: “Lockdown inadvertently created the perfect environment for staring at your own pixelated pores, whether on social media or on apps like Zoom. We began spending way too much time looking at ourselves on the screen and, as a result, we began looking for that Photoshop-filtered image, like the Instagram Paris filter, right?

“Over the months I have seen an increase in demand for deeper treatments, or treatments with more downtime due to clients working from home. There has been an increase in maskne conditions and skin irritations, as well as clients looking for treatments that target multiple concerns with minimal treatments, and which are kinder to their budget and shows results, fast! In my practice we are also seeing clients neglecting either skincare or treatments and spending their money on one or the other due to budget constraints.” As industry professionals we are all well aware of the wide plethora of product ranges available that include numerous, ever evolving active ingredients. At times this can be overwhelming to a trained professional and even more so for a client wanting to maintain their skin. It is a well-known fact that when faced with too much choice, it becomes simpler not to make a choice and this is certainly not the right choice when it comes to maintaining the condition of the skin.

online @ probeauty.co.za

AESTHETIC MEDICINE

Skin fortifiers How do we simplify what the skin needs? If we look at dietary requirements, food comes in different food groups that are required on a daily basis in order to keep the body healthy and functioning. The same can be said for skincare. Active ingredients can also be broken down into different functioning groups that are required to keep the skin balanced and healthy. This helps to simplify and better explain to customers what their skin needs and why, enabling them to make a better educated decision when they have to budget their purchases but without compromising on their results. In order to maintain healthy glowing skin, educate your customers to ensure that they use products with adequate daily levels of the below list of active ingredients.

Hydrating and skin repairing ingredients are vital to keep the skin’s barrier intact, as well as smooth and youthful. Skin fortifying ingredients include ceramides, glycerin, lecithin, hyaluronic acid and omega fatty acids. These ingredients can greatly assist to soothe the irritation and redness on the surface of the epidermis caused by the continual wearing of masks.

Alpha- and Beta-Hydroxy Acids

To speed up cell turnover and remove sun damage, wrinkles and fine lines, you cannot go wrong with AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy Acid) and BHA (Beta-Hydroxy Acid) ingredients in the correct concentration and pH. They can be found in the in clinic skin resurfacing treatment peels, or included as an active ingredient in home care products. Such ingredients include glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, salicylic acid and lactic acid, to name just a few.

Antioxidants and skin protectants Due to the skin’s continual exposure to environmental damage from the sun and pollution, and also from stress and poor dietary consumption caused by our lifestyles, the use of some form of antioxidant ingredient is essential. Ingredients that are plentiful in antioxidants include vitamin C, grape, green tea, resveratrol, beta glucan, licorice, vitamin E, quercetin, non-fragranced plant oils and adenosine, among others.

Skin restoring

These are the type of active ingredients that communicate with the skin cells to stimulate cell turnover and encourage rejuvenation. Peptides, retinol and niacinamide fit into this category. Skin restoring ingredients used with laser technology and skin peels in clinic have the ability to dramatically increase the client’s results. Veale notes that they are seeing an increase in clients coming into the clinic for treatments during this COVID period but not being able to afford a suitable home care routine for skin correction and maintenance. This leads to disappointment for both the client and the therapist, who are expecting to achieve a certain result that can only be achieved with additional homecare. “It has become apparent that we need options for our clients to get skincare that is results orientated, has medical efficacy and is more also budget friendly,” she states.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels

OVER THE MONTHS I have seen an INCREASE IN DEMAND for DEEPER TREATMENTS, or TREATMENTS with more DOWNTIME due to CLIENTS WORKING from home. Sunscreens

As skincare professionals, we are well aware that without the daily application of sunscreen active ingredients, we are never going to achieve an optimum result on our client’s skin. Be it a physical block like titanium dioxide, or a chemical block manufactured in a lab, it is vital that a UVA and UVB filter be used on the client’s skin daily.

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

HAIR NEWS

New look Treat the hair

Inoar’s revolutionary B-Perfect Treatment, developed with wheat germ oil, argan oil, shea butter, hydrolysed keratin and grape extract, strengthens the hair while adding moisture and nutrition to it at the same time. In addition, it promotes hair growth and leaves the hair shiny, frizz-free and healthy. 012 346 1721

Redken has relaunched its haircare range across shampoos, conditioners and treatments into new, Cradle To Cradle-certified packaging that’s recyclable and comprises at least 93% recycled plastic. This brings the brand closer to its #LorealForTheFuture goal of 0% virgin plastic by 2030. Braille has also been added to the shampoo and conditioner packaging. 011 286 0700

Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front

Colourful combo

Adapted for thick, curly, textured and afro hair, Tangle Teezer’s Thick & Curly detangling hairbrush is now available in a beautiful mint green/ lilac fondant colour pairing. The brush’s innovative, two-tiered firm-flex teeth are both longer and stronger than the original Tangle Teezer, to gently detangle wet or dry hair quickly and easily. 021 448 8847

Loveable spray

Included in the HUG range of hair sprays from Jean Paul Mynè is the Enjoyable Eco Hair Spray, ideal for textures that are easy to manage and style. This invisible, no gas, light hold hair spray is in the form of a fine mist that gives hair a natural-looking hold. Perfect for providing structure, it also protects hair from humidity. 021 981 0032

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NAIL FILE ISSUE 44

SORE No More

HOW TO BEAT CARPAL TUNNEL SYNDROME

Grand Opening MISTAKES TO AVOID WHEN LAUNCHING A SALON

WORD PERFECT USE THE CORRECT TERMINOLOGY

AUGUST 2021

WELCOME

he seemingly endless COVID-19 pandemic has very unfortunately seen some salons shut their doors for good, and many therapists and nail techs retrenched. It’s become evident that quite a number of nail techs who lost their jobs have taken the initiative and started their own home salons. As with the opening of any salon, whether it be located in a mall, a free-standing shop, or in a private home, there are certain important factors to keep in mind to build a successful business. We include in this issue of NailFile, an article penned by the founder/ owner of an award-winning nail salon on what mistakes to avoid when you open a salon. It’s more than likely that, given the repetitive physical nature of their work, most nail techs will at some point in their careers suffer from carpal tunnel syndrome. CTS can affect your hands, neck, back, shoulders, wrists, elbows and fingers, and if not dealt with properly, the injury could become permanent and lead to surgery and weakened use of the area, limb or digits. In this issue you will find an informative article on what practices you can employ to avoid this condition, and advice on how to deal with it if you are suffering already. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Photo by Bryony Elena on Unsplash

What’s INSIDE 47

Nail News

Stay in the know

Ask the Experts

Mistakes to avoid when opening a salon

Health

12 tips to deal with CTDs

Technical

Know the correct terminology

Step by Step Tiger print

Step by Step

Ombre with raised leaves

Top Tech Talk Yolandi Bouwer

online @ probeauty.co.za

NAIL NEWS

Nail looks that rocked the Billboard Music Ironically, one of the most striking nail design sets at the recent Billboard Music Awards in Los Angeles was sported by a man, namely singer/ songwriter, Machine Gun Kelly. Each nail had a slightly different black & white checkerboard design on it, which perfectly complemented his monochrome outfit. The nail on his pinky finger, unlike the other short nails, was a long almond shape. If Machine Gun Kelly’s nails didn’t catch your eye, then his tongue – which was dyed black – certainly would have. We’ve all heard of statement nails, but whoever heard of a statement tongue? The musician’s nails were perfectly matched by those of girlfriend, Megan Fox. Rapper Saweetie’s candyfloss pink nails matched her glamourous strapless gown but the 3-inch length of the square-edge nails catapulted them into the edgy dimension. The base of each of the said nails were enhanced by a large sparkly teardrop gem. Singer/ songwriter Pink’s short, square nails were painted in – you guessed it – pink, directly echoing the shade of her voluminous dress. Actress/ singer Cynthia Erivo proudly rocked a translucent, coffin-shaped set of nails, festooned with tiny flowers at the top of each nail. H.E.R’s nail set was perfect in its simplicity – just jet black, long, square edged nails to offset her striking outfit.

Machine Gun Kelly (Instagram @machinegunkelly)

H.E.R. (Instagram @chaunlegend)

Pink (Instagram @bbmas)

Nail care products market set for big growth The nail care products market has the potential to grow by $2.40 billion during the 2021-2025 period, accelerating at a CAGR (Compound Annual Growth Rate) of 4.10%. This is according to a new study from analyst, Technavio, which notes a positive impact on the market during and post COVID-19. The availability of non-toxic solutions for nail care is notably driving market growth, although factors such as availability of counterfeit nail care products may impede market growth.

online @ probeauty.co.za

With the growing concern for healthy nails, customers are using non-toxic and natural solutions to protect their nails. Vendors of nail care products are deploying various organic and inorganic growth strategies to compete in the market. Gel polishes and long-wear lacquers are currently enjoying high demand. According to Technavio, the rising use of artificial nails and accessories will facilitate market growth over the forecast period.

BUSINESS TIPS

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business. Photo by Atikah Akhtar on Unsplash

What mistakes can I avoid when opening my own salon? The nail industry often sees the opening of new salons. This is more often than not thought to be an easy process, which is far from the truth. Like the start-up of any business, it is essential to do your homework before opening your salon. Factors like location, visibility, overhead expenses and the salon’s atmosphere are just a few things to consider. Also, it’s important to think about how much time you need to dedicate to run the business as well as to attend regular training sessions to maintain your skill, standard and technique. Running a business, big or small, requires perseverance, sacrifice and attention to detail. It may not always be easy but it is rewarding. Have a business model in place. This is important not only for big businesses but also for micro enterprises. You need to develop your brand – who you are, what services you specialise in, the look and feel of the salon, etc. Be uniquely ‘YOU’. Focus your attention on your potential client base and what you think they would want. For example, what colours gels would be in demand? This strategy will play a crucial role in your opening orders and will avoid product just sitting on the selves. Find a way to make your brand stand out and appear attractive. What makes you different to any other salon in your region? How can you make every appointment an unforgettable experience for your client? Often it’s the small touches that make the biggest impact on the client. You need to avoid losing touch with what’s important. Often one can become consumed by running a business as the daily hustle can become overwhelming. Always remember to go back to basics. If a client was unhappy with a service, ask yourself why and what you can do to avoid this from happening again. If you

suddenly see an increase in bookings, especially with new clients, figure out why. Clearly, something you are doing is working and attracting attention. Keep putting in the extra effort and you will see the positive outcome. Stay updated and on trend – I can’t stress this point enough. The nail and beauty industry constantly changes. Clients are looking for the latest trends, popular seasonal colours and new product launches that will see them benefiting more from their treatments. Clients want value for money. If a client brings a photo of something that she wants done on her nails, will you be able to deliver on her expectations? If not, she will most likely go elsewhere. Have you attended different workshops and maintained your dedication to training and upskilling yourself? I so often see salons that are not as fully booked as they potentially could be and this is most likely due to the client being unhappy with the service that she received and is seeking a more skilled nail technician. The forever evolving nail industry requires your attention to detail, which you will learn from ongoing training.

Tania Biddle is the owner of the award-winning Plush Nails & Beauty in Roodepoort, as well as the head of education for Bio Sculpture.

online @ probeauty.co.za

HEALTH

tips to deal with CTDs Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

any nail stylists who have been in the industry for years sooner or later develop a CTD (Cumulative Trauma Disorder), for example carpal tunnel syndrome. Here we detail ways to try avoid this condition CTD develops due to the repetitive and incorrect use of your hands, arms or body, and usually results in a painful condition. The muscles around the area of use

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eventually become so inflamed that they constrict and place pressure on the nerves, causing shooting pains and numbness in the area. So says consulting educator and industry expert, Sonette van Rensburg. She continues: “Carpal tunnel is created beneath the strong fibrous band stretching across the wrist; another similar band stretches across the top of the wrist, creating a tunnel beneath it. Tendons and nerves that control finger and thumb motion pass through this tunnel, and, when this area is injured, swelling occurs in the soft tissue, which then pinches the nerves together, causing pain. “If the condition is not dealt with properly, the injury could become permanent and lead to surgery and weakened use of the area, limb or digits. CTD can affect your hands, neck, back, shoulders, wrists, elbows and

HEALTH

rest that elevates the hand, to prevent forward tilt of the head and neck. 12. Minimise pressure points, avoid placing arms on the edge of the table and use a foam tube/padding on the sharp edge of the nail table or as an arm/elbow rest.

Prevent lifting and motion injury

Photo by Rashid Khreiss on

fingers.” Van Rensburg advises that nail techs practise proper ergonomics and be aware of their posture.

What to do

The INTA (International Nail Technicians Association) and PBA NMC (Nail Manufacturers Council) recommend the following to prevent CTDs. 1. Keep both the task and tools directly in front, do not favour or lean to one side. 2. Avoid reaching more than 12 inches and keep forearms parallel with the floor (neutral position) at the side. 3. Choose a high-quality, swivel chair with a seat at least one inch wider on each side than hips/thighs and properly padded so that it doesn’t create pressure points. 4. When sitting, always keep the spine (back) in a neutral position (a 90-degree angle), not leaning forward or backward. The head, neck, and body should face forward without twisting or hunching. The back rest should provide support for the lower back. 5. Avoid twisting the neck and keep shoulders relaxed. 6. Avoid leaning too far forward while performing manicures or pedicures. Do not bend the back forward more than 30 degrees or the neck more than 45 degrees. 7. Raise and position the client’s hands or legs/feet to prevent bending/stretching forward or supporting the feet with your own body. 8. Adjust chair height so your thighs are parallel to the floor with your feet flat. If necessary, use a footrest to keep the feet flat and don’t cross the legs or sit sideways in the chair. 9. Wrist and hands should be kept straight, not bent or twisted sideways. 10. When holding a client’s hand or finger, position it so that the pressure from grasping is minimised; a relaxed, minimal hold will lessen the strain. 11. Gently move your client’s hand rather than tilting your head. In order to prevent neck strain, consider placing a client’s hand on a

Also vital to preventing injury, according to INTA and PBA NMC, is understanding how to lift and move correctly, as repetitive motion can aggravate CTD. To prevent back injury, salon professionals should avoid lifting anything heavy (more than 7kg) and, when lifting something, tuck in the stomach and use abdominal muscles and legs, instead of the back muscles. Also avoid overextending arms.

WHEN SITTING, always keep THE SPINE (back) in a NEUTRAL POSITION (a 90-degree angle), not LEANING FORWARD or backward. THE HEAD, NECK, AND BODY should FACE FORWARD without TWISTING OR HUNCHING.

Important points The INTA and PBA NMC strongly advise stylists to take frequent breaks, change positions frequently and not to hold any posture or position for long periods. They suggest using continual flowing movements when performing massage techniques to keep muscles from tightening and becoming sore. When massaging, use the heel of your hand and pad of your thumb since they are stronger than your fingers, and be ambidextrous; use both hands equally. Slow down, if necessary, to avoid injury, pain, discomfort and eliminate unnecessary steps. Don’t over-apply artificial nail products; the more you apply, the more you have to file. Using a new file on each client will reduce your muscle strain and save time. If taking a break isn’t possible, do gentle stretching motions in between clients; stretch the neck, raise arms and stretch, open hands and stretch fingers, stretch back and rotate wrists. Always pay attention to discomfort, and, if it continues, seek the advice of a medical professional.

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Know your chemicals Part 2

TECHNICAL

Continuing in her series of articles, Sonette van Rensburg focuses on the importance of understanding the correct terminology when using nail products and chemicals

n the first ‘Know your nail chemistry’ article that was published in the July issue of NailFile, we spoke about some very important points and factors to take into consideration when working with nail products and chemicals. These included knowing the ingredients in your nail products, the chemistry behind them and what makes them work, COSH Regulations and Safety Data Sheets. Another major issue in our industry, which causes confusion, is the use of certain terminology and understanding what it really means. The most important factor of all is knowledge and, as a nail professional, this is vital so as not to get bamboozled by

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what is fact and what is not, and being able to distinguish when a product or ingredient is actually potentially harmful or not. In our industry we can’t afford to play guessing games and make unfounded speculations. There has been quite a big focus lately on eliminating so called harmful chemicals from our lives, with some rather controversial and sometimes bogus claims and statements being made about nail products. These include: non toxic, hypoallergenic, vegan, free from certain ingredients, chemicals and preservatives, halal and breathable, among others. Often such claims exist merely to market a product and to give it a unique selling point, or to put fear into people so as not to purchase certain products. Let’s talk about some of the terminology that is being used incorrectly in the nail and cosmetic industry, so that you can gain a better understanding of what the terms actually mean. In our previous article we discussed what

HEALTH

chemicals are and now, knowing that almost everything we can see and touch is a chemical, you will also understand that it’s absolutely impossible for anything to be completely chemical free, as it would just be a bottle or pot of nothing.

Non toxic

Firstly, you need to know that everything has a safe and unsafe level of toxicity. Generally when you say something is toxic, it means it could be potentially harmful and even life-threatening for a person. So, to say a product is non toxic implies that other products are actually toxic, which is

GENERALLY when you say something is toxic, it means it could be potentially harmful and even LIFETHREATENING for a person. So, to say a product is NON TOXIC implies that other PRODUCTS ARE actually TOXIC, which is incorrect.

incorrect. Most nail products nowadays only use ingredients in recommended percentages, which have been approved and are deemed safe for use. Wearing nail polish does not have any toxic effects, but that does not mean you may not develop an allergy to it. Ingesting large quantities of it, which is highly unlikely, will most definitely be toxic. When products and chemicals are used for the sole purpose for which they have been intended, in the correct manner, and according to manufacturers’ instructions, then they are perfectly safe. But when they exceed the safe level of use, then they can become toxic. There are certain chemicals that are definitely not for use on the natural nails and skin. Unfortunately, some nail techs may not believe that there is anything wrong with using them and think they’re being clever or saving money by doing so. For example: acetone is generally considered a safe solvent if used correctly and safety protocols are adhered to. However, using acetone from the hardware store, which is meant only for industrial use, could result in some serious issues. The same goes for adhesives, and NO they are not the same as the nail products we use. If they are not meant for use on the nails and skin, then steer clear of them. Don’t think that you’re saving money because all you are actually doing is buying

yourself a whole lot of problems. Purchase your nail products from reputable nail product suppliers, not the hardware or any other store.

Hypoallergenic

Another term often being used by some manufacturers to promote their products is saying that they are hypoallergenic, claiming that their products cause fewer allergic reactions than others. This is an enticing statement but also misleading, as we tend to believe that a product labelled as such is less likely to cause an allergy. And who wouldn’t like to minimise the chance of an unnecessary reaction if we can, particularly now during COVID? In actual fact, it’s practically impossible for something to be completely or truly hypoallergenic. To be so would mean that common allergens have been eliminated from the product and it should not react at all with the immune system. However, there is no guarantee or sure way to tell whether a product is actually completely free of allergens and that it will absolutely not spark off an allergy in a person. Most importantly, always read product labels and check the ingredients for any potential allergens.

Free From

Then there are products that claim they are free from a number of ingredients. Well, the truth is that many nail products have been excluding some of these ingredients in their formulations for years. Most of these ingredients are more applicable to nail polish and have been removed for various different reasons and alleged risks to people. But the majority of the ingredients found in nail products have a specific purpose and are necessary for them to work effectively. If too many ingredients are completely removed, you would end up with a very unstable product that wouldn’t last very long or perform as it’s meant to.

Parabens

Parabens received a really bad rap at one point, with many people avoiding any products that included them. There are many types of parabens derived from different sources, some are controlled and considered safe for use, and others are not allowed in cosmetic products. What some people don’t know and understand is that parabens have a very important function in that they prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and mould so that both the product and client are protected.

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TECHNICAL

Vegan

Many people these days are asking whether products are vegan or not and this is not due to the safety of a product, but rather more for ethical reasons. For a product to be considered vegan, it would have to be free of any animal derived ingredients and not tested on animals. However, there are very few nail products that use animal bi-products currently, or that test on animals as it is banned in most parts of the world. Even some animal derived products, such as lanolin and beeswax, don’t harm animals to obtain these ingredients.

MOST NAIL products only use ingredients in RECOMMENDED PERCENTAGES, which have been APPROVED and are deemed safe for use. WEARING NAIL POLISH does not have any toxic effects, but that does not mean you may not DEVELOP AN ALLERGY to it.

Halal and breathable nail polish

There are constantly questions arising about so-called breathable and halal nail polish and whether they are in fact actually halal. This all started due to a Muslim ceremonial tradition known as Wudhu, a mandatory ablution before prayer where water has to touch every part of your body before you are considered clean enough to offer prayer. Should a person have any substance on their body which prevents water from penetrating it, then the Wudhu is considered incomplete. So, it is important to understand what is meant by halal for a nail polish to be halal. Water would have to be able to penetrate the nail polish to reach the natural nail plate, hence so called breathable nail polish was invented. Additional to this, the polish should also not contain porcine or any animal derived products. Although many nail companies claim to have developed a halal polish, there are still no facts or proof that they actually are.

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Despite tests showing that when water is rubbed over the dry ‘breathable’ polish painted onto a surface, it penetrates, these tests are questionable and offer no substantial proof from a scientific perspective. Therefore, any nail polish which requires rubbing to allow water to permeate through it cannot be constituted as halal. The Islamic Society of North America (ISNA)’s Halal Nail Polish Certification has corroborated these findings. We will unpack and discuss the ingredients and safety of certain chemicals and nail products more in depth in the next issue of NailFile. Remember that if you fully understand the chemistry behind your nail products, you will be able to separate the facts from the fiction. Information has been sourced from various websites, social media and educational platforms. For more in depth

THERE IS NO GUARANTEE or sure way to tell whether a product is actually completely FREE OF ALLERGENS and that it will absolutely not spark off AN ALLERGY in a person. MOST IMPORTANTLY, always read product labels and CHECK THE INGREDIENTS for any potential allergens. information about any of these or other nail related topics, you can go to Doug Schoon’s Brain, Face to Face with Doug Shoon, and Nailknowldge.org.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands. Email: sonette@eyelashemporium.co.za

STEP BY STEP

Tiger

print Anelda Fouche taps into her wild side by creating this ‘roaring’ design

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Apply a base layer and two coats of a mustard/ orange colour (I used #2028 Tangerine from Biogel), curing after each layer.

Continue with shorter stripes on the sides. Cure after every two to three stripes that you create to prevent them from bleeding into one another.

With a red colour (I used #117 Breaking Dawn from Biogel), ombre only the side edges of the nail. Keep the layer thin (it is only to darken the sides) and cure.

Fill in the nail with more long and curved stripes. Cure.

Using a fine art brush and a black (I used Daniella from Evo Gel), start creating your tiger stripes from the centre of the nail. Create stripes side-to-side and curved towards one side of the nail, curing after every two or three stripes.

Continue until you have covered the nail with the different shaped stripes and cure.

Step 7

Apply a layer of Matte Top Coat to give the design a ‘fur’ feel/ look (I used Suede Matte Top Coat from Evo Gel). Finish the design with two dark brown nails and one mustard/ orange nail (use the base colour of your tiger print design) to complement the Tiger print. Finish all the nails with a Matte Top Coat.

Anelda Fouche has been a qualified nail tech for 17 years. She is the owner of Luv uR Nails salon and is a Bio Sculpture Educator in Durban.

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STEP BY STEP

Chic Ombrè

nails with raised leaves

Karien Ferreira has created this elegant set of nails with just the right amount of shimmer, while staying on trend with striking 2D leaves on the accent nails

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

After preparing the nails, apply one layer of Calgel natural gel as a base layer and cure. Follow with an application of two layers of Calgel plus sheer white (CG S07WH). Cure each layer separately. Mix Calgel silver art glitter (CG A03SL) with Calgel Plus mixing gel (CG 01MIX). Use 3 parts mixing gel to 1 part of Calgel plus art glitter. Apply to the tips of the nails and blend the edges to create a subtle ombre effect.

Now use Calgel plus mauve pink (CG M12PI) and the marble brush to add colour to the grey leaves by lining them with the marble brush, sightly overlapping the grey area and cure.

Draw a thin, slightly curved vertical line with Calgel Plus sheer black (CG S02BK) using a Calgel marble brush and cure. Draw leaves onto the line using Calgel Plus sheer grey (CG S02GY) and cure.

Using the marble brush, outline the lower parts of the leaves and stem with thin lines using Calgel plus solid black (CG M01BK). Outline the remainder of the leaves with Calgel plus solid white (CG M01WH). You can also use the white to create the vein of each leaf and cure.

Step 5

Finish your nail set with an application of Calgel matte top gel on the accent nails and cure. Do not remove the tacky layer. To create the raised effect, apply a generous amount of Calgel top gel to the leaves only and cure. You can use the marble brush for this. Remove the tacky layer to reveal the effect.

Karien Ferreira is a Calgel nail technician.

Finish the other nails with Calgel top gel or matte top gel if you prefer, depending on your client’s preference.

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Q&A

Top Tech Talk

NailFile chats to Yolandi Bouwer about the dynamics of opening a nail salon soon after qualifying as a nail tech and about deciding to specialise in podiatry pedicures What made you want to get into the nail industry?

I used to be a legit nail biter before I hit my 20s. The first time I went to a nail salon to have acrylic put onto my nails to deter me from biting them, I was just amazed at how good my nails could actually look. This sparked a lot of interest in doing my own nails, as well as those of a few friends and family members. Years later I fell in love with the newer gel technology but was unable to purchase this specific brand’s products because I was not a qualified nail tech. So I enrolled to become qualified, only to find that I didn’t just want to do my own nails anymore, but wanted to make other people feel the same way I felt years ago when I transformed my nails. Having beautiful nails is not just about the

nails; it is about giving your confidence a boost and making you feel that you can take on the world. When my clients feel like that, then I have accomplished what I set out to do. That is why I dove headfirst into the nail industry and I thank God for laying it all on my heart and allowing me to follow through.

Had you come from another industry before you switched to nails?

When I finished high school, I was not lucky enough to know what I wanted to do with my life with regards to my career. So, I worked in the corporate world (mostly IT sales) and although I always gave 110%, it never felt like it was enough and did not fulfil me as I thought it should.

When did you open the Colour Station

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Q&A

Having BEAUTIFUL NAILS is NOT JUST ABOUT the nails; it is about GIVING YOUR CONFIDENCE a BOOST and MAKING YOU FEEL that you can TAKE ON THE WORLD. When my clients FEEL LIKE THAT, then I have accomplished what I SET OUT TO DO. Professional Nail Studio in Centurion?

I did my Novice Programme in Gel Technology course in February 2020, but could not finish my portfolio as well as theory and practical exams because we went into the COVID-19 hard lockdown. Only when lockdown for the beauty industry ended in July 2020 was I able to qualify. Ever since then I started to treat my services as a professional business and officially traded under the Colour Station name. My salon is currently home based and will be for some time to come. I don’t really see myself having a salon in a shopping mall, although you never know. Currently I work alone but as soon as the salon is moved outside of the house (but still on the premises), I will need some more help.

How was business during Lockdown Adjusted Alert Level 4?

I am very fortunate to still be working. Apart from my clients, it is only myself and my husband in our home and we work very hard to keep all safety measures and protocols in place to be able to service my clients in a safe and sanitary environment.

How was it navigating your

business through the pandemic last year and for the first five months of this year?

I was blessed to thrive during the pandemic, especially last year. The pandemic made me realise that I can do this on my own, the only one true roadblock was waiting for the beauty industry to reopen. We were fortunate enough to have savings to keep us afloat and my husband still worked at full capacity at his company, so it made things a bit easier financially. This year was a turning point as we moved to a new home. The salon was first to be set up and the appointments have kept flowing in.

What made you want to specialise in podiatry pedicures for dry and cracked heels?

In South Africa I feel that we still focus a bit too much on old fashioned pedicures. The demand for pedicures is very high, especially for the older generation and many people cannot reach their feet or do their own pedicures. I drove myself crazy in finding the perfect combination of a painless Pododisc solution (foot file that works electronically on your e-file) mixed with a chemical peel. When I saw the results, it made me want to specialise in this treatment. I did an internationally recognised course online through the professional brand that I work with.

Do you think there is a lack of knowledge in the industry regarding how to treat this specific problem?

Unfortunately, yes. Nail technicians are sometimes solely focused on nails, despite the fact that pedicures can bring in a lot of revenue for a salon. Unfortunately, there are a lot of fly-by-night salons that focus on revenue more than service. Pedicures are then done without proper training, leading clients to sustain long term damage.

Apart from using specific products and online @ probeauty.co.za

Q&A

your social media pages. What does nail art mean to you?

To me, nail art is a form of expression, not only for me doing the art, but for the client who wears it for two to four weeks. It makes the client feel special and unique knowing that the art I do on their nails (even if it is inspired by a Pinterest photo) is unique in its own way.

Were you good at art at school?

I’m sure that my school art teachers would agree that I was certainly not the Picasso of my age. The truth is that I was not good at it at all and never thought I would ever use art in the way I do now. It is still a daily challenge for me, although I love art way more now than I did back in school.

What percentage of your clients request nail art?

From a subtle foil to glitter to full-on hand drawn nail art – I would say about 80% of my clients wear some form of nail art, even if it is just a finger or two, or a sparkle or two.

What sort of nail art has been most popular with your clients in the past few months?

To me, NAIL ART IS A FORM of EXPRESSION, not only for me doing the art, BUT FOR THE CLIENT WHO WEARS IT for two TO FOUR WEEKS.

Most definitely abstract nail art – geometrical shapes (lines, dots and forms), swirls, paint-strokes and my famous flower foils. As I am still quite new to the nail art world and to nails in general, most of my clients do send me a few pictures of the art they would like beforehand so that I can practice before they come in. This also helps me to allocate a time frame for them so that they know upfront how long their sets will take. There is a handful of clients who are always willing to let me do what I want if I have new stock of something, or if I would like to try a design.

protocols to treat this condition, what foot care advice do you give to your clients to try and minimise the problem?

I can prescribe as many creams and oils as I want, but I always tell my clients that if they have this condition, they should treat it like they do their hair. You would not go to a hair salon to colour your hair and expect it to last forever without taking care of it at home. It’s the same with your feet; my procedures do work very well but giving the feet some extra love at home takes it to another level – even if it is just to not walk barefoot outside. I also advise on the difference between plant-based oils and creams (that absorb into the skin) and mineral oils that don’t.

There is lots of lovely nail art on

Is there a particular style of nail art you most like doing?

I love working with foils. Once you nail the adhesion of the foils (pun intended), it can create stunning effects with the least amount of effort, especially for those clients who want to be in and out of the salon in a minimum amount of time.

Where do you think nail art is headed in the future?

I surely think nail art will keep surprising us but the way it is going now, the more imperfect the art is (abstract) the more perfect it is, and I think this will still go a long way.

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