Jan Feb 2018

Jan/Feb 2018

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ON DISPLAY Professional Beauty Cape Town Show Preview

Beauty LACK

Treating African Skin

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the eyes Lash & brow enhancements

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27

34

In this issue...

50

Regulars

Spa Focus

Medical Aesthetics

7 Industry news

27 Spa trends 2018

52 Naturally more beautiful in 2018

Local and international news

49 Crowning glory

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

55 Product news

All the latest launches

Business 16 Ask the Experts

All your questions answered

19 Insider

Tracking the industry with stats

20 Restraint of trade

How this affects employees

23 The ins and outs of discounting

Deliberate discounting

24 Time to take stock

What’s ahead for the spa industry

Trends for this year

31 A winning formula

Umngazi Spa

Special Features 34 Framing the windows to the soul

Brow enhancements

36 Lashing out

Eyelash extensions

40 Look what we’ve got!

Professional Beauty Cape Town Preview

42 Out of Africa

Treating African skin

50 Perpetual motion

24-Hour creams

What’s selling and what isn’t

25 The beauty of private equity

Partnering to share risks and rewards

26 The nuts and bolts of social media advertising

Turning online audiences into foot traffic

42

Welcome

2

I

t’s no secret that 2017 was a tough year for South Africa in general, let alone the beauty industry, so it’s quite a relief to find ourselves in 2018. We hope for a more stable and positive economic environment to counter the effects of last year, which saw us hit with successive downgrades by various international credit ratings agencies, due to the on-going political turmoil in the country. A strong government and leadership is now required to get our economy out of the dumps.

Beauty salons in particular felt the negative economic pinch, reporting a downturn in both treatment and retail business during most months of the year.

Fortunately though, business started to pick up in the holiday months.

As our lead news story in this issue reflects, spas in Cape Town have had to take drastic measures to deal with the dire, on-going drought, by cancelling their hydro facility treatments and severely cutting down on water usage in other treatments. They are to be commended to taking such action in very difficult circumstances, as by definition, ‘spa’ means healing through water.

The Professional Beauty team is looking forward to its first trade show of the year, which takes place at The Lookout in Cape Town’s stunning V&A Waterfront, on 4 and 5 March. This issue includes a preview of just some of the exciting new products that will be on display.

Salon and spa owners, as well as therapists and aestheticians in the Cape are encouraged to attend the show, which also includes business, nail and medical aesthetics seminars. Not only will show visitors be exposed to the latest developments and trends in the industry, but there will be valuable networking opportunities as well.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA

Jan/Feb 2018

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Treating African Skin

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7 News

News Cape Town spas severely affected by drought

are using that water to clean the floors. We’re encouraging guests to leave the oil on after a massage for added benefit, to avoid having to take a shower.

“The spa is only booking one to two full body exfoliations per day to save water as guests need to shower after this treatment.

During pedicures we have changed the protocol and therapists only use two cups of water to soak the feet.”

The One&Only Cape Town is ‘seriously committed to drastically reducing water usage across the resort’ and is encouraging its guests to ‘Save Like A Local’.

Say marketing executive Ashleigh Fleming: “Along with introducing waterless hand sanitiser, installing eco-shower heads and aerating devices on all taps to minimise demand and consumption (saving 25% since July), we have implemented grey water harvesting and removed bath plugs and promote short shower usage with shower timers.”

Steam showers in the spa have been closed and spa baths removed from the menu. The swimming pool water top up is only done via treated and filtered recycled water and the hotel is installing a borehole on the property as an alternative supply.

News in pictures

With Cape Town at Level 6 Water Restrictions due to the ongoing drought, many of the city’s spas have implemented water saving measures, particularly in terms of their hydro facilities.

Says Taryn Lilley, spa manager at Cape Grace: “As part of the hotel’s ‘Every drop counts’ campaign, an unplugged policy has been implemented, with bath plugs removed and hand sanitisers placed on basins. Low-flow shower heads, aerators and pressure releasing taps have been installed to reduce water usage. Cooling towers are fitted with screens to mimimise spillage and ‘grey water’ is used for our gardens.

“From a spa point of view it has been really difficult as the very definition of spa is ‘healing through water’. However, we have stopped hydro facility treatments – our NeoQi Cocoon has been put into storage and we no longer offer spa bath treatments. Our sauna is still on, but the steam room is only on for a limited number of hours each day.”

Lilley notes that therapists are no longer using basins with water for facials but rather warm mitts. She continues: “We still do body scrubs and wraps but use mitts instead of showers to remove product.”

Julie van Rooyen, Amani Spas operations manager, reports that her Cape Town spa no longer offers hydro treatments, namely rasul, steam room and hydro bath.

“Wherever possible we adapt our body treatment protocol to include compressing products off rather than showering. We have also changed our ‘Welcome Ritual’ to be done with compresses rather than soaking feet in bowls of water,” comments Van Rooyen.

The Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa is also no longer doing its ‘Welcome Foot Ritual’ – instead feet are now wiped with a heated towel and essential oils.

Says GM Michael Nel: “Any water left over from the guests’ complimentary water bottles is emptied into a big bucket and we

Alexander Drusio, MD of Dr. med. Christine Schrammek Kosmetik, visited Johannesburg recently to meet with distributor, Victoria Wagner of Evolution Cosmetic (left). Drusio was accompanied by export manager, Birgit Schmitz.

online @ probeauty.co.za

News

8

inbrief // The Medicines Control Council (MCC) and Related Substances Act has by resolution approved by the Minister of Health, determined that any product containing bacterial strains (probiotics) shall be subject to registration as scheduled medicine falling under Category A.

// Award-winning Karkloof Safari Spa, which was previously only exclusively available to guests of the lodge, has now entered the day spa market by offering select packages to day spa visitors.

// Sandton Sun Hotel is now a stockist of premium skincare brand, Babor, and is looking at introducing the brand early in 2018.

// The International Spa Association (Ispa) has announced the launch of an industry workforce study to analyse the recruitment, retention and engagement of professionals in the spa sector. Results of the study will be presented at the 2018 Ispa Conference.

// The Laser Beautique (TLB) has announced the appointment of Nicole Ramdev as head office manager at its headquarters in Waverly, Johannesburg.

Born and raised in Durban, Ramdev is a qualified aesthetician and first joined TLB three years ago. In November, TLB launched its 11th branch, at the Off Nicol Health & Wellness Centre in Bryanston, Johannesburg.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Fundamental shift predicted for beauty industry Consumers will demand personalised beauty defined on their own individual terms during 2018, while brands will embrace inclusivity by looking beyond age, gender, sexuality and body type, predicts market intelligence agency Mintel.

According to Mintel’s Beauty & Personal Care Global Trends 2018 Report, during this year and beyond, beauty consumers will demand that their individual needs are answered with options or customisable beauty.

Brands will embrace inclusivity and address individual beauty concerns, which will result in more customisation and personalisation of products.

The report goes on to state that the term ‘natural’ will expand to include locally sourced and technologically enhanced ingredients, products and services. Biotechnology, together with a resurgence of local wisdom, will help brands face up to the challenges created by environmental issues.

Mintel further maintains that brand personality will become paramount as more consumers expect to see their values reflected in the products they buy and the company they support.

“Beauty consumers won’t just want to look good, but feel good too, by going beyond the logo and investing in brands with a personality and purpose to perform good deeds,” states the report.

Digital technology looks set to drive unprecedented customisation of the shopping experience and brands will be watching customers’ every move.

The Mintel report reads: “New technology can interpret consumers’ facial expressions and eye movements to determine their product preferences and offer help, both in-store and online.”

Twenty-year-old spa relaunches Skin Sense Day Spa in Rivonia, Johannesburg, has relaunched under new ownership and management, headed up by Colette van Niekerk.

Says van Niekerk: “Skin Sense was originally built, from the ground up, 20 years ago. Since taking over the spa, my partners in the business, Bertus van Niekerk and Brett Rowly, and I have introduced some exciting new treatments, such as photobiostimulation (LED) as well as hair restoration for traction alopecia.

“We have also relaunched the existing spa café – Food Sense – into a new restaurant called The Cooking Accountants, which is open to the public and is proving a very popular venue for bridal showers, small weddings and wine pairings.”

Van Niekerk notes that an aesthetics practice, run by Dr Thys Heyns, has moved onto the property, allowing for easy cross referrals between spa and aesthetics practice.

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News

10

Marica celebrates 30th birthday

Marica Hair and Beauty Salon Specialists recently celebrated 30 years in the industry and is currently planning a major expansion that will see the addition of a dedicated, antique-style, barber showroom.

In addition, Marica has been given the exclusive distribution rights in South Africa for the Bellabaci body and facial cupping system, and is looking to add another top quality hair brand to its already extensive catalogue, namely Saffron Secret, trending as one of the top 10 at Cosmoprof Las Vegas 2017.

Marica founder and owner, Shevi Shalom, regarded by many in the industry as an icon, attributes the company’s 30-year milestone to a combination of spirit, drive and passion.

“Marica was started back in 1987 with a vision to become a one stop shop. Today Marica has a staff complement of 32 and premises

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that span 4,000 square metres at Longmeadow East Business Estate in Modderfontein,” says Shevi Shalom.

She notes that quality of product and customer service have always been the company’s biggest priorities. “We rigorously check all items that we bring in and we also place a big emphasis on education, as clients must be trained on the products and devices we sell to them. We feel it’s our obligation to give clients a wide choice in each product category.

“Marica develops very personal relationships with customers and each client who comes to us is important, no matter the size of their order. I always insist on service with a smile, even on the phone.

I think all of our staff are very enthusiastic – they go that extra mile. After sale service is a really big focus for us as we want happy customers.”

Shevi Shalom points out that Marica, which is registered with the DTI (Department of Trade and Industry), exports extensively into Africa – to Ghana, Botswana, Namibia, Mozambique and more, as well as to ‘The World’, a luxury private residential ship.

As a one-stop-shop, Marica has provided turnkey solutions to the Gary Player Spa in Sun City, has set up many Camelot Spas, delivered two shipments for Sorbet UK and set up the majority of Sorbet stores in South Africa, as well as Sorbet Man and Candi&Co. In addition it has supplied to Imbalie Beauty’s Placecol, Perfect 10 and Dream Nails salons and supplies to many training colleges.

It’s worth noting that Marica also manufactures its own devices, including a sterilizer, the Epiblend hair removal system and an Interferential device.

11

The Professional Beauty team was deeply saddened to hear of the passing of Sharon Best, who died on 3 November 2017 after a long battle with cancer.

Well known in the medical and aesthetics sectors, Sharon was a Director at Best Lasers for nine years and the MD of the recently launched company, Best Enterprise.

Sharon, who was born on 31 July 1961, was regarded as a powerhouse in business – successful, respected and a role model to many. Together with her loving husband and soulmate, Andrew Best, she built a flourishing medical laser company, making use of her many talents by training doctors and therapists in the use of medical lasers, marketing, sales and building relationships.

In early January 2016, Sharon was diagnosed with cancer and received aggressive chemotherapy, radiation and surgery and was in remission for a short period. On the morning of 22 May 2017, it was confirmed that

the cancer had metastasized and in September, her health began to fail.

Andrew Best writes: “Words cannot express the loss of Sharon (‘Sher’), my dream wife for 33 years. You were everything to me, the one who was always there to share my thoughts and feelings to understand and care. I was so lucky to have you as a loving wife.

Cancer could not keep you down.

News

Obituary – Sharon Best

You fought the good fight and you finished the race. Now there is in store the crown of righteousness.

God lent you to us for an amazingly short time and you will always be part of us. Until we meet again.”

The Professional Beauty team would like to extend its sincere condolences to Andrew, his and Sharon’s son, Andy, and to all her family, friends and colleagues.

International award for Mommy Wellness The Mommy Wellness Group has won the 2017 Spa Brand of The Year category in the prestigious Haute Grandeur Global Spa Awards.

Says Mommy Wellness founder Izelle Louw: “When we got the email to say that we won Spa Brand of the year, I had to read it twice as I could not believe it. Over the last five years we have worked so hard to establish our brand in the market and this award shows that hard work pays off. It is such an honour to have won a Haute Grandeur Excellence Award and I’m so proud of our brand.”

Haute Grandeur is a global awards system operating in seven continents and 60 countries that does not rely on the opinion of a selected panel of judges.

Properties are nominated and

voted on by hotel/spa guests.

Participating spas are able to encourage guests to share their opinion during the awards timeframe to derive a percentage score for the spa, based on the various factors that they need to comment on during the rating phase.

online @ probeauty.co.za

News

12

Edgars launches first in-store salon concept On 25 October, department store chain Edgars launched Placecol on the go in its Sandton City branch, offering a range of beauty, hair and nail services to Edgars customers.

The salon is owned by Marilize de Lange, who owns two other franchises in the Imbalie Group, owner of Placecol, Dream Nails and Perfect 10.

“Years ago I ran the Placecol retail counter at Edgars, when it was still available there,” says De Lange. “Placecol then withdrew from Edgars and late last year Imbalie’s executive director, Debbie Wolfendale decided to bring Placecol back into Edgars, but with an ‘on the go’ concept.

The idea is to offer Edgars clients affordable, bite-sized beauty and hair treatments of 30 minutes or under.

“I’ve been an Imbalie franchisee for 11 years and thought the Placecol on the go concept was a fresh idea and a good way to attract customers, being situated within a store. We have a Magic Mirror, where we glam up the clients for free and then we take a picture of them and that is automatically uploaded to the Placecol on the go Facebook page.

“So far we’ve had a really good response from Edgars shoppers.

I also plan to offer discounted services to Edgars staff as they actually send clients to us.”

Imbalie is looking to roll out the Placecol on the go concept in many more Edgars stores, starting with Eastgate, V&A Waterfront and Fourways.

MySpa Voucher takes off Since going live in November, the MySpa Voucher website, which promotes the use of spas, hydros and premium beauty and hair salons to both local and international guests, has generated much interest in the industry, according to CEO Samantha Lockhart.

“The feedback is amazing; everyone is very excited to see what the future holds with MySpa Voucher and they do feel that it was time that there was

competition to the other listing website on the market.

“All the owners I have spoken to can see the potential reach of MySpa Voucher and are aware of my solid history and experience in the industry. The only negative is that I do get asked how I am going to drive traffic to the site.

“The answer is that I have the experts who designed the website working with me and they have over 25 years of experience in Google marketing and advertising.

Obviously if a spa is not listed on MySpa Voucher, they won’t be able to see any traffic. I can’t drive traffic to an empty website so we need spas to showcase themselves.

Already we have a big presence, with a variety of spas listed, both group-owned and independent.”

Lockhart stresses that MySpa Voucher works closely with the spa owners to see ROI (return on investment) and to track the actual clicks on their own listing pages and specials on the website.

Lamarie makes inroads Newly launched in South Africa, Lamarie Cosmetics has already collaborated with several beauty salons in the Gauteng area to date and is looking to become a countrywide brand.

Says distributor Kevin Hsu: “Lamarie Cosmetics was created by a team of passionate skincare

online @ probeauty.co.za

specialists in California who saw a world in which only the rich could afford quality cosmetics. These specialists believe that healthy skin is the most important factor when it comes to giving people confidence.

“Thus, every product in our range is specifically formulated for

specific skin conditions and consists of the best hand-picked, top quality ingredients, but at much more affordable prices without losing quality.”

Lamarie products are manufactured in Taiwan, at a GMP factory under the ISO 22716: 2007 Standard.

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Advertorial

14

Get supplied with Marica

massage

Marica Products, established in 1987, is a leading Hair & Beauty cupping Supplier, Wholesaler and Distributor of Salon Interior Furniture, Salon reinvented Accessories and Salon Equipment for the Hair, Beauty, Nails and Spa industry.

M

arica is the preferred One Stop Shop of professional equipment for Salons, Training & College Institutes, Health Clinics and Spas and has an inhouse wide range of products and consumables. We offer the latest technology from leading manufacturers, after sale service and a Repair Centre.

In the beginning the company operated and provided services to beauticians and the beauty salon market but the need for a onestop-shop supplier that included hairdressers and hair salons in South Africa was realized in the early 1990s.

As a result, Marica Products

online @ probeauty.co.za

introduced a range for the hair and beauty salon market, such as equipment furniture and products to cater for the increasing demands of these needs from local and African countries.

Since then, the company has expanded its product range and deepened its services to the local market and Africa. The company operates in South Africa and African countries which has positioned it with a very strong and solid footprint in the region.

The company has expanded its entire range of products, remaining popular and competitive. Some of Marica’s current brands are: Parlux, Termix, Amazonliss, Wahl, Nouvelle, Berrywell, Kai and more.

massage cupping reinvented

The Market The Hair & Beauty industry includes salons that primarily offer hair care services such as haircutting, hair colouring and hairstyling services. Additionally, some of these companies may provide facials and make-up applications and retail beauty products.

Some of our most notable customers include: Jumbo Cash & Carry, Camelot International, Camelot Spas, Africology, Spas of Distinction, Sorbet, Sorbet Man, Candi & Co, Dermalogica, Imbalie Group, Ulusaba Safari Lodge, Singita Lodges, Body Bliss Day Spas and many more.

Marica has authorised Agents & Distributors that operate and sell throughout the country. They set up salons, selling products and running training for new Hair care and styling products.

Marica has years of knowledge and skills to provide this industry with all their professional needs.

Marica provides 360 degrees of service, maintaining a continuous supply that can provide the business to go on without any interruptions.

South Africa’s local market Marica’s target market is hair and beauty salons, training colleges and certain medical aesthetics clinics, mass retail, safari lodge hotes, etc in South Africa and many African countries.

Management Team Marica’s management team is led by Chief Executive Officer, Mrs B.M. Shalom, who acquired the company in 1991 and also fulfils the role of Chief Financial Officer.

Operations We have offices in a prime location in Johannesburg with sub agents in Durban, East London, Port Elizabeth and Cape Town. Our total full time staff complement is 30 people and our products are distributed by our own fleet of local delivery (4) trucks and couriers.

Summary

Ethnic Hair Care

Marica Salon Specialists has become the premier organisation in South Africa, offering world-class products to customers in South Africa and to the African countries. PB

The ethnic market is huge and constantly growing. In Africa hair care has become a multibillion dollar industry, drawing in global giants such as L’Oréal and Unilever.

Marica’s Ethnic Excellence hair care “e+” range of products has been developed for Marica.

Marica regularly supplies African countries with equipment and furniture for the hair and beauty salon market, as well as ethnic hair products specially developed for the use of ethnic hair.

The opportunities on the ethnic front are large and there is still room for business growth and development.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Advertorial

15

Business Tips

16

ask

the experts

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

How do I create a happy working environment for my staff?

It’s very easy as a business owner to get caught up in the day to day stresses of running a business and forget why people actually want to work for you. But, with the demanding staff of our times, we have to make sure that we keep a keen eye on making the spa / salon a happy place to work in. It is an essential component to the long-term success of your business and should be prioritised above everything else.

online @ probeauty.co.za

A happy work environment attracts and keeps talent. It ensures your staff perform to best of their ability at all times. If they love coming to work, the chances are that they are loving their guests; this is what keeps clients returning. Most importantly, it means that should you be away for a day, your staff will do everything in their power to make you proud.

Here are the key things I believe will really help in keeping your workplace a happy one:

Hire great You do not put mediocre product on your shelves – don’t put mediocre staff in your business. A bad recruit can be so much more detrimental to your business then having to ask a client to come back a few days later.

Business Tips

17 Define your recruitment, induction, employment and operational protocols clearly.

Then, stick to them and do not falter.

Be patient – do not hire just to fill a column. Wait for the right person – they will come.

Ensure that your new hire’s values are in line with yours and the core values of the business.

Don’t be scared Say goodbye to losers. Don’t underestimate the positive effect that getting rid of poisonous staff will have on your team and your revenue.

Make sure all your HR and employment processes are in line and up to date and work the rotten eggs out legally and gracefully.

Make them comfy Your staff work hard – give them somewhere to relax. They have to respect the area and so there must be rules for mess and noise levels.

Time away

Allow growth

Staff need a place to reflect and regroup. Their jobs are physically and emotionally challenging and they need to ‘de-frag’ to continue performing at their best – from their first client to their last.

Team building is so important and so easily overlooked. The whole team needs to have some breakaway time out of the spa, where they are spoilt and appreciation is shown for what they do.

Encourage out-the-box thinking.

This is how we develop leaders.

Delegate, teach and allow people to make mistakes; learn from them and grow them into bigger and better positions.

Communicate

Sharing is caring

Daily huddles and afternoon reboots are vital – you have to have touchpoints with your staff to help them begin their days and to keep going throughout.

In this way you also show your appreciation for them when having an amazing day. You will ensure that a bad day can be nipped in the bud early and not affect other staff or, even worse, clients.

It helps you and the staff to stay centered, focused and on track all day every day.

Be transparent as this is the only way staff will learn and grow. They need to know all the ins and outs and the highs and lows.

Show them what they are contributing towards.

Make sure that growth and profits are celebrated but also that declines and losses are noted so that they can see how their buy-in is necessary to the success of the business.

Be involved There is nothing more important to staff than having someone to look up to and aspire to.

If you pay attention to all the points above, you will be the shining light that guides your staff all the way to infinity and beyond.

Philippa Abbott is a fully qualified therapist and make-up artist who has worked on cruise ships and in spas in London and South Africa. She started Spa Sense in 2010 to assist clients with turnkey spa solutions. philippa@spasense.co.za.

online @ probeauty.co.za

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19 Business Trends

Insider Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in October 2017.

Insider Spa

Insider Salon

Encouragingly, the majority of spas polled reported an increase in business in October 2017, as compared to the same time last year. Some of you reported that you’d managed to attract some new clients, while other spas experienced several small group bookings.

A spa that reported a decrease attributed it to the financial status of guests and having a lot of new staff that required training. One spa group found that hotels were much busier in October than compared to the rest of the year, with the bigger spa properties in the Western Cape doing particularly well.

While retail sales could have been better, more than half of you saw an increase in business as compared to October 2016. Those that didn’t attributed it to the general bad economy.

We asked you what your most successful staff incentive is, and the majority of your responded that it was time off and commission. As to the most exciting product launches seen this year, the majority said skincare.

As had been the case throughout most of 2017, most of the salons polled reported a decrease in treatment business, as compared to the same time last year, due to the bad economic conditions and political uncertainty. Strangely enough, retail sales fared slightly better than treatment business.

On the upside, all the salons polled were expecting business to pick up considerably during the festive season, traditionally the busiest time of year for salons.

Salons polled reported that time off is the most successful staff incentive. One salon had a different view, stating staff were most incentivised by client satisfaction and making appointments in advance.

The majority of salons found that the most interesting launches during 2017 were in the skincare and pedicure sectors. PB

The month in numbers Average treatment room occupancy

Average treatment room occupancy

64 %

61 %

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2017 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2016?

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2017 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2016?

67% 22% 11%

37%

Better

SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2017 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2016?

58% 13 29% % WORSE

Better

SAME

Better

0% 63% SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2017 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2016?

40% Better

2% SAME

58% WORSE

Business Tips

20

Restraint

of trade

In an industry perennially beset with high turnovers of staff, Samantha Lockhart looks at the importance of including a restraint of trade clause in an employment contract and how it affects the employee.

A

restraint of trade is an agreement or clause in the contract of employment between an employer and an employee that enables an employer to protect the information on his/her business against certain losses.

Examples of these losses are trade secrets, confidential information about the business (such as turnover or how profitable the business is), and customer and client information, which also falls under the POPI (Protection of Personal information) Act. When you’ve found that perfect job, it can be overwhelming when your new employer presents you with a restraint of trade agreement

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Though every person has the right to choose an occupation freely, restraints are legal and very much enforceable against South African employees. as part of the terms and conditions of your employment.

Though every person has the right to choose an occupation freely, restraints are legal and very much enforceable against South African employees. Restraints will only be invalid and unenforceable if deemed unreasonable. An employee alleging

that a restraint is unreasonable has to prove this in court.

Reasonable Is it reasonable for an employer to present you with a restraint of trade agreement and should you sign it?

The answers to these questions need to be considered on a case-by-case basis, but there are some general principles to consider. For instance, a restraint of trade could require a restriction of your skills (e.g. massage) within a certain radius of their existing business. For example: ‘You may not perform massage treatments for another company within a 5km radius of this address’.

However, for a restraint of trade to be enforceable, it also

needs to be within a reasonable time period as you cannot cause someone to have a loss of income for an indefinite period. The normal period is six months to one year and it needs to be for specific services rendered as mentioned above.

The restraint of trade cannot restrict the employee from ever being employed in their chosen profession, so before you sign a restraint, look at aspects such as: • how long it will last; • the geographical areas and business domains it covers; • the circumstances under which it will apply; • the nature of the commercial interest the employer seeks to protect; and • how will it affect your ability to make a living if you leave.

Rationale behind restraint Many businesses have put such agreements in place because they have repeatedly lost staff to competitors after they’ve spent a fortune on training and developing them.

Furthermore, the business risks of an employee taking customer relationships and intellectual property with them when he or she joins a competitor are huge.

Don’t assume that a restraint agreement is a bluff by your employer. Signing (or later breaking) the contract should not be done lightly since the legal department might have thought it through very carefully.

If you feel that you would not be able to make a living at all

under the terms of the restraint of trade clause, try to renegotiate the terms. For example, you might be comfortable to say you won’t work for a competitor in Pretoria, but that you won’t agree to a countrywide restraint.

Or, you could argue for a sixmonth restraint rather than a year-long one.

If the employer is inflexible and the agreement seems overly restrictive, you might want to pass on the job opportunity if you have other options. It is fair for the employer to ask you not to take privileged customer or product information to a direct competitor, less so to insist that you can’t be a sales representative or engineer anywhere else. PB

Samantha Lockhart runs her own successful consulting company and has launched a new voucher website for the beauty and hair industry. samantha@myspaconsultants.com

Business Tips

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The INS and OUTS of

DISCOUNTING

If you are going to discount treatments in your salon or spa you need to do a lot of beauty homework first, advises Debbie Merdjan.

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ook at why you’re discounting, what you hope to achieve, what kind of clients you want to attract and if, in the long run, discounting is going to bring you repeat business.

The bottom line is that you want to maintain the reputation of your spa and hold on to your upmarket feel, while attracting new clients and retaining existing ones.

This is where your homework comes into it. You never want to do something called ‘Desperate Discounting’. This is when things are bad, you don’t have much money and so you quickly do a couple of mad things. You run a few ads, you offer specials, or you lower your prices.

But this reeks of desperation and may only help you for a week or so.

You need to think long term.

This is where ‘Deliberate Discounting’ comes in. There’s a big difference been ‘Desperate’ and ‘Deliberate’. So yes, things are not going great and you need more business but be smart about the way you get it.

Fill your quiet times. Offer a free eyebrow tint with every facial between certain times, or include a foot massage with a pedicure. Make your clients feel like they are getting a ‘value add-on’.

Present your customers with samples of moisturisers or antiageing creams without them asking.

They’ll love you for this. Any value add-on is a way to get clients to keep coming back, even without a discount.

Have loyalty cards. Offer birthday specials. Create wedding packages.

Or have a super special for a ‘super group of friends’.

#hashtag Make use of social media. Ask clients to # hashtag your spa on Instagram or share your Facebook page. Chances are they’re going to take pics anyway. Incentivise them for the hashtag.

Maintain your exclusivity. If your branding is all about beauty and relaxation, don’t lose sight of that. An upmarket spa probably doesn’t need to offer a ‘two for one’ but you can do it in a way where the client feels you appreciate her. ‘It’s your birthday and you’re a great customer. As a token of appreciation, we’d like to offer your partner or best friend a spa treatment too!’

Sell packages. Sure you want the one hour massage to sell well, but imagine if you can turn that into a ‘Half day Pamper Package’ including a massage, facial, hot ginger tea, the water facilities…

Be creative. Tempt your clients.

Be irresistible! And do it in a very deliberate way! PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982, started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997. dm@camelothealth.co.za

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Business Tips

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Time to take STOCK Now that the New Year is here, it’s time to have a proper look at what’s selling well and where you should be asking for support from your suppliers, writes Hellen Ward.

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ometimes brand reps can get it so wrong when reviewing your sales, admonishing you for products that aren’t selling.

“Well done”, they say, when looking at their strongest selling SKUs (stock keeping units) but, “slapped wrists over the items that you aren’t reordering, and which are consequently gathering dust”.

I’ve developed a stance of turning this firmly and squarely back on them. Any poorperforming sell-through of their products has me retaliating with a snippy: “So, what are you going to do about it?” It never fails to do the trick because it’s always up to them, not you or your team, to take ownership of the products you aren’t selling. Try this next time you cheekily get told how you’re underperforming for them, or how much product the salon down the road is selling compared to you – it works a treat.

Slow movers Any items that you’ve bought in to retail that don’t sell need to be thought of by you in terms of cold, hard cash – it’s your money that is sitting on the shelf, so place the emphasis firmly back on suppliers to re-think which products in the range are working for you and which aren’t. Be mercenary about it.

For our hair care brand, I’ve worked with several major retailers and it’s been enlightening. One that we work closely with has the following ethos: exit, decline, hold, grow. Every supplier wishes they fell into the latter categories, which means that the product is secure (at least until the next six-monthly range review). If, however, the products you are selling in are falling into the exit or decline areas, you’re in trouble.

So, what do they expect you to do? Well, as much

as the big retailers regularly assess stock to decide what positioning each product will get in their outlets, a neverending, ongoing range review needs to be carried out by the supplier too.

Demand support If a stockist has given you precious shelf space that you’re not fully maximising, it’s your responsibility to take ownership. Uplifting, swapping, innovating – it’s up to the supplier to continually assess their brand performance. After all, if you don’t optimise the space, somebody else’s product is just waiting to try and outsell you.

Carry out your own range review on the brands you retail and tell your suppliers what you’re happy with performance wise, but question what they’re going to do about the underachieving products. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square and chair of Trailblazers for the hairdressing sector. hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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The beauty of PRIVATE EQUITY

For a spa or salon owner wanting to expand their business, private equity offers the possibility of getting a partner on board with both the finance and the business sense to make your company prosper, writes Kyla Derrick.

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s a successful entrepreneur, the time comes when you realise your business can grow and may even last beyond you. Achieving this could require more capital but borrowing means taking on more debt. There is another way to grow your business: private equity.

Says Tshego Sefolo, CEO of Agile Capital: “Private equity gives you the chance to find a partner to share the risks and rewards of your business, whilst respecting the entrepreneurial ability of the founder.”

What’s at stake Finding a private equity partner means selling a stake in your business – an important decision that requires some serious thought and could allow an entrepreneur the opportunity to up their game.

It’s important to have the right management team already in place. But before you approach a potential private equity partner, make sure your accounting records are in order as the books will demonstrate the health of your business.

A true partner will bring good strategic ideas to your business – allow them the space to collaborate with you.

“By doing so, you’ll have a firm grip on your numbers and this will inform your outlook,” notes Londeka Shezi, director: Agile Capital.

Identify the processes and controls in your business: you will have to share with your equity partner how your business operates because they will be taking on all the risks with you.

“Also ask yourself how much of a say you will let a partner have,” adds Sefolo. “A true partner will bring good strategic ideas to your business – allow them the space to collaborate with you.”

You need to be clear about the vision you have for your business – any good business partner

will want to know the growth opportunities your business can offer. By formulating your vision you will be able to identify the skills you need to bring on board to grow your business – and finding a partner who adds value is vital. The right business partner might have just the skills you are looking for, possibly as a BEE partner, or as a key client or supplier to your business.

“Then consider how much of your business you are willing to sell to implement your plan,” says Sefolo. “At this stage, don’t hesitate to ask for advice – identify a good commercial advisor and ask them to help you with the nuts and bolts of selling a stake in your business.”

Most importantly, don’t rush in. “A desperate seller is a compromised seller,” says Shezi. “Rather take time to plan and create an offering of value because you will attract value `` in return.”

The bottom line is that funding is always available for market-savvy entrepreneurs with the right outlook. PB

Kyla Derrick is a communication and research specialist with over 12 years of experience in the communications industry. She has worked in Hong Kong, Bangkok, London and New York. kyla@offcentre.co.za

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Business Tips

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The nuts & bolts of

SOCIAL MEDIA ADVERTISING

Ayesha Rajah provides some valuable tips on how to turn your online audience into foot traffic through your door.

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t’s a great feeling getting traction from ongoing efforts on your social media platforms.

Followers are growing and audience engagement is up, so the next logical step is to convert your online audience into your customers.

There are two types of social media advertising: organic (natural) and paid. Both have pros and cons. Organic reach is the default – content reaches a percentage of your page’s followers and you don’t spend any money. The downside is that you cannot target in terms of age, gender, demographic or geo-tag.

With paid reach (i.e. page/postboosting), the more you pay the larger the audience and you can target your audience, however this can become costly.

Ad approval When advertising on various social media platforms be aware that posts need to be approved prior to the advert going live. Your ads will be denied if you refer to race, discriminate against gender, make your audience feel guilty, show negative self-image and have more than 20% text on your post, so shift your content to meet these guidelines.

Begin with an impactful image that grabs your audience’s attention. Ensure you think about the audience – who you want to target and the action that you want them to take. Don’t rush, rather take a few minutes and get a targeted audience with a smaller reach but high follow through as opposed to a larger audience with no sales. We call this laser targeting. Create your own audience as you may be unsure who your posts will reach when choosing an automatic audience.

Choose your audience by age and gender and drop pins onto the map to make specific geolocations instead of the standard 25km radius around your salon or spa.

Take particular care when choosing interest-tags of the audience you are targeting and align these with an audience you know would be interested in your service or product. I will sometimes include a profession as well.

Call to action Inserting a call to action directly into any advert or its caption prompts people either to visit your website, or to contact your business directly, which can convert to sales. If this approach works well, you may extend the length of the advert, which means spending more.

What it really comes down to is your audience asking themselves: ‘Do I really need this?’ So, when you are setting up a call to action create a sense of urgency, imply exclusivity, use persuasion, be concise and maintain interest.

In summary, content is king.

Ensure you have a striking high-quality image, maintain interest in a way that speaks to your customer’s needs, ensure that you have laser-targeted your audience and you have a call to action button that is most appropriate for getting the sale. PB

Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and SkinDoctors. ayesharajah@ai-importers.co.za

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27 Spa Focus

Spa 2018 Trends Getting your teeth into 2018’s spa trends early will determine the difference between breaking even and running a profitable business with a loyal clientele that has longevity, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.

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ithout a shadow of a doubt the wellness industry is still growing; it is in fact becoming integrated into society’s habits and routines and is no longer just a weekend spoil or getaway splash.

So, before we look at global spa trends for 2018 let’s agree on the South African market place and the potential spa guest. We are definitely seeing the following type of person: increased stress levels, disrupted sleep, mentally and physically exhausted, technologically switched on, social media influenced, needing ‘me time’ or time out, and aware of the need for fitness and exercise. This is in addition to the regular spa maintenance guest just looking for grooming needs.

We have also seen an increase in male guests, teenagers and kids.

How connected your client is to your spa and how customised your offering for him or her is, will determine their loyalty.

All the above points to a very diverse and large market place.

So let’s look at what 2018 is likely to bring, then align what you are already strong at with the trends to amplify your client capture and grow your business.

connected your client is to your spa and how customised your offering for him or her is, will determine their loyalty.

Do your clients currently engage with your communication? If not, why not? Are you sending the right message to the right target market, or just sending the message out to your database?

Do you get feedback? And how meaningful is that feedback in the decisions you make going forward? How customisable is your menu?

Think carefully about customising your menus for 2018.

Have the basics and then simply add on and customise to meet specific needs.

Customisation and connection

Healthy ageing

This was touched on last year but will most definitely be the deciding factor of whether you keep your clients in 2018. How

This seems to be the talk of the town. Offer your clients results driven solutions with no downtime and a feeling of >

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wellbeing at the same time. How the client feels all the time while looking after their skin and body is what matters and what they remember all day long so focus on this.

Focus on what they see, touch, feel and hear when they are with you and away from you. Do they remember you when they are not with you? Do they smell you when they are not with you?

Do they feel good when they follow what you tell them to do?

This all sounds a bit strange but pretend you are the guest and take the journey they would when interacting with your spa and using the products you give them to take home and the wellness advice you offer them.

Digital deli If you think we need to block and stop digital in the spa you are fighting a losing battle. Rather

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find ways to work with the digital times we are living in. Integrating technology into the spa is essential. Do you facilitate and recommend social media activity on arrival and departure? With pictures? With testimonials? If you don’t ask, you won’t get.

Are you offering online bookings yet? Ensure you facilitate the booking quicker than your competitor. iPods for personal music choices during treatments are key to customisation, so find a way to customise music selection. Get your gift vouchers and monthly offers online and then market and drive sales.

Do your lockers offer phone charging stations? Are you doing skin analysis and consultations online and sending the

results to your guests post treatment as reminder of their personal needs?

Instant gratification with a little suffering This might sound odd but alongside healthy ageing comes the occasional more radical treatment approach that has no specific downtime in terms of actual surgery and missing work, but which results in actual physical changes seen on the skin. For example, skin peels are on the rise, as is collagen induction therapy in the form of micro needling and specifically automated systems. These are all procedures that a skin therapist can offer even in a spa as a once off. Spa peeling facials are much more in demand. >

Spa Focus

30 Happy hormones How happy do you make your clients during their spa journey?

This runs from making the booking with you, to arrival, to check in, to the fabrics her/his body touches, to the ambience of the treatment area, to the knowledge and skills level of the therapist, to the food and beverage options, to the check out, to the home care advice and

product recommendation, to the follow up phone call.

All of the above and how many happy hormones you manage to release in your clients, will translate positively to your bank account.

‘Spaties’ Visiting a spa in groups has become popular. Bachelorettes are changing, in that a group of girls would rather be in the spa for a day than out eating and drinking. Teens, kids and corporates are spending more time in the spa than ever before so don’t ignore this and have the attitude that your spa does not cater for kids. Instead, allocate specific days and times to offer kids parties and don’t forget the gifting opportunities that can boost your retail. Find a way to get golfers off the course and into the spa.

Red It seems that red is the colour for healing therapy in 2018.

Infra-red saunas are seeing an increase in both residential and spa businesses. Incorporate this into all treatments as a value addon or into packages to increase wellbeing.

Preventative wellness.

There will be a focus on prevention is better than cure in 2018. So, while botox is still one of the top five requested beauty treatments, focus on preventative treatments and ensure that your message is clear as to what the objectives are.

Incorporate wellness into your offering in welcome rituals, closing rituals, value add-ons such as yoga on the lawn, followed by stretching and hydro therapy as an example. Offer colouring in as part of your relaxation or recovery time, or as

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

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part of a de-stress package, and teach the consumer different methods of stress control after they leave the spa.

Offer your guest a silence session after the treatment such as actual meditation time, where you set them up and meditate with them in total silence for five minutes.

Environmental responsibilities My advice is to eco friendly up, as eco awareness is not going to go away. It is becoming more of a global focus with everyone trying to do their part in some small way.

Look at your spa and find ways to eco up a notch. For example: recycling bins in public areas of the spa, organic on site grown veggies, solar lighting and recycling water.

Improved service delivery The consumer is service delivery driven, they know what a massage feels like, they know what a facial should do so take those services and ensure their delivery is better than ever.

Use your fussiest guest to guide you; use other spa managers to come and asses the treatment; and use your supplier to train your team and assist you with ideas of how to improve the delivery of the service.

The consumer is now not only looking for value for money but how the treatment and the service is delivered, from the moment they make the booking to after they have left.

Embrace the changes that the spa industry brings for the coming year and plan how you will align your business and what changes you will implement immediately. PB

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A winning formula Four-time winner of the Resort / Hotel Spa of the Year Category of the Professional Beauty Awards, Umngazi River Bungalows and Spa balances local hospitality with international standards of service to ensure its continuing success, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

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here’s no doubt that 2017 was a bumper year for Umngazi River Bungalows and Spa, situated on the Wild Coast in the Eastern Cape, in terms of awards.

In addition to winning the Professional Beauty Resort / Hotel Spa of the Year Category, Umngazi won two Haute Grandeur Awards (Best Hideaway Spa in Africa and Best Spa Destination in South Africa) and the Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Unique Spa of the Year Award.

Umngazi’s general manager, Michele Walker, who is responsible for managing the spa on a daily basis, notes that the spa has a long history of winning awards. “We pride ourselves

The spa has an 87% rebooking rate and most of our guests return annually – we therefore have a lot of repeat guests. on the many awards we have won over the years and have an amazing team that consistently strives to achieve top standards.

I believe that this factor, coupled with the constant development and growth of our amazing therapists, is a recipe for success.”

In fact, Umngazi has embarked

on a Diploma in Somatology with the three therapists in its spa development programme.

“These ladies just grow from strength to strength and achieved full qualifications at the end of 2017, having undergone exams in Port Elizabeth. We could not be prouder of them. Development of our team is foremost in our daily operation at Umngazi Spa,” states Walker.

The Umngazi Development Programme was put in place by Walker herself, who has a strong background in training and development in the hospitality industry.

“When one person moves on, another has to fill their shoes,” she continues. “There is no truer statement than this in the >

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Umngazi team that continues to develop and grow. This team has delighted and inspired me, with the passion and love they have developed for the industry.

It has been such a humbling and heartwarming experience to watch this group of women be empowered with skills and financial stability, which has had such a positive impact on themselves and their families.”

The spa development programme has, over the years, grown a receptionist into the spa supervisor, a waitress into a therapist, and someone from the community who did foot massages around the pool into a therapist.

“We have also been able to grow our business enormously, now employing three extra therapists than before and adding a new, much needed treatment room,” comments Walker.

Opened: 2006 Owners: Pat and Karen Goss Size: 450 square metres Number of full-time therapists: 6 Number of treatment rooms: 4 + relaxation area that can be used for outside treatments Hydro facilities: Spa bath; exterior plunge pool; forest shower Brands: Africology; Dermalogica; Morgan Taylor

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Repeat business Multiple awards aside, the spa, which first opened in 2006 and is run as an in-house operation at Umngazi, enjoys extremely high occupancies.

“This keeps the spa team on their toes,” continues Walker.

“We also have a lovely group of loyal locals who use the spa on a regular basis. The spa has an 87% rebooking rate and most of our guests return annually – we therefore have a lot of repeat guests.

“However, if you want to stay on top of the competition, then innovation is the name of the game. For instance, we reinvented our Signature Treatment in 2017 and it now includes a unique ‘beach welcome touch of warm sea water and sand’, followed by a Kahuna massage, a walk through our outside forest shower and a full facial.”

Another unique treatment is the Izandla Ezine, which includes a four hands massage. Walker explains: “Umngazi is situated in the former Pondo Kingdom territory, so the ‘Pondo touch’ is something so unique to our spa. It gives us the warm hospitality and welcome our guests keep returning for. We took this concept and created the Pondo Touch Four Hands treatment done by two of our wonderful therapists at a time.”

Walker reveals that she and her team are currently looking into a change of treatment menu in 2018. In the meantime, the entire hotel has undergone a massive refurbishment programme over the past year. Décor, facilities, gardens, relaxation area, spa bath, spa café menus, packages and uniforms have all been upgraded. PB

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Framing the windows to the soul...

With lashes continuing to generate big business in the South African beauty market, brow treatments and enhancements are now growing in terms of demand, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

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othing provides definition to the face like delineated eyebrows that are shaped to complement the shape of the face. Thanks to the likes of model Cara Delevigne and actresses Lilly Collins and Emma Watson, who are all blessed with naturally dramatic eyebrows, there has been a renewed interest in the strong brow.

Some bizarre and extreme brow trends emerged in 2017, such as brow braids (where brows are styled to look like plaits); feather brows (where brows are parted and the hairs splayed into a feather like shape); foil brows (where the brows are covered in tin foil); and the carved brow look (which involves framing the face with bold lines).

According to Unaiza Moideen, founder of The Brow Bar franchise, South Africans have

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taken to the brow concept very quickly. “There are now far more beautiful, well-groomed brows then poorly shaped brows. Some local brow icons are Minnie Dlamini, Khanyi Mbau, Shashi Naidoo and Miss Universe / Miss South Africa, Demi-Leigh Nel-Peters. This surge of interest in brows has also increased the number of enquiries we receive for franchise opportunities.”

Moideen notes that most clients are wanting higher arches and that the ombré brow is becoming popular. “Generally we work according to the natural brow and encourage clients to train their brows based on the template designed. We measure each client’s brow based on the golden rule ratio and map out the brow depending on the holistic features of the face.

Then we create a template of a brow design that is unique to the individual’s brow bone, distance between the brow, placement of

the arch and symmetry.”

Commenting on the Eyebrow Design service offered at The Laser Beautique, Tzvia Hermann says: “The therapist examines several aspects of the client’s face, such as expression lines, facial symmetry, colour and type of brow hairs. The techniques we use allow the therapist to find the ideal design for each face to enhance natural beauty and to give an elegant, personalised expression.”

Relatively new on the market are brow extensions. Moideen explains: “These are synthetic hairs that are glued onto the skin or onto the brow hairs as an extension of the natural brow’s hairs.

“This treatment offers a solution for people with gaps in their brows or for people with very short brow hairs. Brow extensions offer a fuller, perfectly shaped brow and can last up to anything between four to seven days.”

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RapidBrow Eyebrow Enhancing Serum helps to condition, men and men who are enhance and improve their eyebrows. It is alone or with makeup. the appearance of eyebrows in just 60 days. It nce in the morning and once ng the convenient spool is formulated ded to use RapidBrow® for with Hexatein2 Complex, a special blend of brow enhancing, nourishing ein® 2 Complex, a special blend of brow enhancing, nourishing, and signed to condition eyebrows from everyand angle. This blend, unique to revitalizing ingredients, uthful-looking, lush appearance of eyebrows. amino acids, help support flawless, youthfulspecifically appearance of brows designed to condition enzyme R), an essential factor in maintaining healthier-looking, more eyebrows from every angle. and condition the brow hair, improving the overall appearance of brows Other active ingredients boost the protein structure and enhance healthier-looking appearance of include polypeptides (comprised ary anti-aging ingredient from stem cells of a rare Swiss apple, helps rows of beneficial amino acids); nt, helps add shine, sheen and softness to brow hair Biotin (Pro-vitamin B7 / Vitamin ESTED RETAL PRICE: R 999 H / Coenzyme R); Panthenol DERMATOLOGIST & OPHTHALMOLOGIST TESTED B5); Keratin; apple fruit (Vitamin SAFE & EFFECTIVE cell extract; and sweet almond CLINICALLY PROVEN extract.

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morning and evening onto the brow hair. For best results it is recommended to use RapidBrow for at least eight weeks.

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It provides immediate, dramatic results as it tames, sculpts and defines unruly brows and fills in sparse, thin or damaged brows. Water resistant and smudge proof, the gel does not have a hard or crunchy finish. PB

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Brow & Lash Enhancements

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Brow & Lash Enhancements

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Lashing OUT

The trend for lash extension treatments in South Africa continues to gain traction, with more and more salons opting to offer this increasingly popular service, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

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nternational Master Lash Educator, Hilaree Brand, who was on The Lash Collection stand at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo in September 2017 and who conducted master classes for lash artists specially selected by The Lash Collection, believes that lashes are here to stay.

“Lashes have been huge in the US for the past 10 years but only really big in South Africa for about two years. The demand for lashes has now become so strong that I think that if ladies were forced to choose, they would give up their nail services rather than their lash treatments.

Interestingly, we’ve also started seeing male clients coming for lash extensions but we never extend men’s lashes past their natural length.”

Brand notes that there have been big advancements in lash adhesives over the past decade.

“Years ago it took about

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The demand for lashes has now become so strong that I think that if ladies were forced to choose, they would give up their nail services rather than their lash treatments. six minutes to dry each lash.

Adhesives are now much quicker and safer. Lashes used to be the thickness of toothpicks and today are really small, down to 0.03mm and 0.04mm. So they provide far better results and make application much safer.

There are approximately 150 lashes per eye.

“It is now also possible to do extensions for the lower lashes but this is an extremely

specialised service and you obviously need to protect the eyes as much as possible. I believe I am one of only two companies in the world at the moment who do lower lashes. No lash service should ever be done with the eyes open,” explains Brand.

Volume techniques Cliff Altree of Luscious Lashes International points out that the various Volume lash extension techniques are catching on slowly South Africa.

“However, very few therapists are choosing to invest in proper training for these

techniques and are taking the easy way out by purchasing pre-made fans with no basic knowledge of the effect this additional weight may have on the natural eyelash. “A classic case of ignorance emerged when a brilliant lash artist of a well-known Russian brand, came up with a new Volume technique known as Hyper-volume and the lash extension community was outraged at the thought of applying 12 extensions to a single eyelash, as it would be far too heavy and would damage the

natural eyelash. Luscious Lashes came to the rescue with a rather simple formula and diagram to demonstrate that, provided you are using the correct diameter of extension, you may in fact apply that many extensions onto a single lash and the combined weight would be equivalent to a normal 0.20mm extension. “This formula and schematic was a first for the lash industry and Hyper-volume is now accepted as a safe technique, provided you have your measurements and weight correct.

These important aspects are not covered in most Classic lash extension courses and when lash therapists transition to Volume in any format, many lash artists have no idea how many lashes of which thickness one may apply to a single eyelash without causing damage to the natural lash and early shedding. So, the easiest way out for most is to buy pre-made fans, stick them on and hope for the best. Pre-made fans require very little skill to apply but the mere fact that they already have adhesive on them >

Brow & Lash Enhancements

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Clinically Proven Fuller, Longer Looking Youthful Luscious Lashes Advanced. Innovative. Extraordinary

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Brow & Lash Enhancements

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and need another layer to apply them adds significant weight to these extensions and they will shed prematurely unless a lot of care is taken in selecting the correct thickness.

“Another drawback is that you cannot wrap a pre-made fan around the natural eyelash like you are able to do with hand-made fans, which means that there is less adhesion surface and they will shed earlier,” says Altree.

Some products especially formulated for lash extensions include the Luscious Lashes Foaming Eyelid Cleanser with Tea Tree Extra, Lash Growth Serum and Mascara.

Lash lift If the maintenance of extensions doesn’t suit your client’s schedule or wallet, Lash Lifting is an excellent new alternative.

Says Carla Crafford, training director at The Lash Collection: “Similar to the old school lash perm, silicone shields and cream based lotions are used to lift and nourish the natural lashes from the root, creating a naturally lifted and enhanced look that lasts up to eight weeks with no mess or fuss. This will give you a more natural look than extensions, but when applied in conjunction with a lash tint, you can go mascara free.

“However, for ladies that love their mascara but not the hassle

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of applying and removing it every day, extensions really are the way to go.

The Lash Collection stocks a range of Classic and Volume extensions, in a variety of lengths, thicknesses and curls.

Extensions are fabulous for special occasions such as weddings, and can also be maintained with regular fills every two to three weeks if you want to get rid of the hassle of mascara for good.”

Detox for lashes The newest foaming cleanser in the Bella Lash Aftercare line is Lash Detox, an extremely lightweight solution that is perfect for oil and make-up removal. Paired with the Detox Brush, it thoroughly cleanses the lashes, making it a great irritant-and-residue-free add-on service for salon clients.

Also from Bella Lash, the Infinity Lash growth serum strengthens and lengthens the natural lashes without the risk of serious side effects. Its lashstimulating peptide complex support the lash’s natural renewal cycle, making the lashes thicker, bolder and healthier.

The product should be applied twice daily on clean and dry skin at the base of upper eyelashes.

Once the desired look is achieved, apply once daily or as directed. PB

You cannot wrap a pre-made fan around the natural eyelash like you are able to do with hand-made fans, which means that there is less adhesion surface and they will shed earlier.

The Business of Beauty Increase your profit in 2018 Last year was a tough year for all of us. Take the opportunity to improve your profit, knowledge and business for 2018 by attending the Professional Beauty exhibitions.

Not only will you see some great brands, new products and special offers, but also have the opportunity to attend our fantastic series of workshops to help you increase your business knowledge, improve your skills or learn about exciting new treatments.

CAPE TOWN

4-5 March 2018 The Lookout V&A Waterfront

Register at www.probeauty.co.za for FREE and enjoy the following: • Special offers from a wide range of suppliers • New products and ideas • Fantastic educational workshops • Improve your industry knowledge • Network with your peers Visit www.probeauty.co.za for more information @PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA @PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA

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Professional Beauty Cape Town

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It just goes to

SHOW...

The biggest beauty event in the region, the Professional Beauty Cape Town Show, takes place on 4 and 5 March, at The Lookout, V&A Waterfront.

B

eauty professionals who visit the Professional Beauty Cape Town Show will be exposed to the latest trends and technologies in the skincare, nails and medical aesthetics sectors, all from the vantage point of The Lookout venue, which offers unparalleled views of the sea and Table Mountain.

As with all Professional Beauty expos, there will be a big focus on education at the Cape Town show, with three seminar programmes, namely Business; Advanced Therapist; and Nails.

The Nail Workshop runs on the morning of Sunday, 4 March and will focus on new dimensions in nail design, as well as changing nail trends and technology.

This will be followed by the Advanced Therapist Workshop in the afternoon, themed: ‘Advances in aesthetic skin and body care for 2018 and beyond’. This twohour power session will cover the latest trends in advanced skincare, technology and aesthetic treatments.

‘The Five Factors required for the survival and success of a business’ is the theme of the two-hour Business Workshop, which takes places on the morning of Monday, 5 March.

It will cover hiring/recruitment and staff organistion, as well as the importance of processes, managing your resources and marketing.

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What to see at the expo Please see below a selection of some of the exhibitors at the show.

BEAUTY TECH C1 Beauty Tech’s goal is to offer beauty therapists the best in equipment, services and support.

BIO SCULPTURE GEL C16 A new Bio Sculpture collection will be launched at the show.

Western Cape Educator, Amanda Stroh, will educate all aspiring nail technicians, focusing on technique, brand ethics and Bio Sculpture as a complete nail care system.

BLACK ROSE COSMETICS D1 Black Rose is a premium South African cosmetic brand derived from the luxurious Rose-Oil and combined with natural ingredients such as yoghurt,

resulting in a divinely scented and nourishing product line.

BNE COSMETICS F5 BOOKSY F10 COSMOPROF E2 DERMACARE DISTRIBUTORS E22 ELLIPSE C7 Ellipse will be in Cape Town for the very first time and showcasing the latest industry developments. This will be followed up by a two-day workshop with Jens Petersen from Ellipse Denmark.

ESP SALON & SPA SOFTWARE E21 ESP, South Africa’s foremost Salon & Spa Management Software, was established in 1994 and has always focused exclusively on the salon and spa industry to create the most comprehensive management system in the world.

INFINITY CRYSTAL C12 INFINITY SKINCARE E11

Course that bridges the gaps in the aesthetic industry. This includes recapping on all skin conditions and blemishes/ irregularities and how to deal with problematic pigmentation.

Date: 6 March 2018 from 09h30 to 14h30. Booking essential on Janine@lamprobe.co.za.

LAY’S E8

Infinity Skincare will exhibit the Cocoa Brown 1 Hour Tan Mousse (the world’s first 1 hour tan, a tan that doesn’t need to develop overnight). Also to be showcased at the expo is Full Brow, an easy-to-use compact range of brow make-up.

INDULGENCE SPA F11 KALAHARI LIFESTYLE E16 Kalahari Lifestyle is an original brand that combines innovative phyto compounding with phyto cosmetology for an authentic African botanical experience.

L’ABEILLE G23

L’abeille will showcase its new range of High Performance Skincare, offering clients Advanced Capsule Skincare Systems for targeted benefits.

L’abeille is also the only company in South Africa that includes a new French marine extract proven through in-vitro and invivo studies to increase collagen synthesis by an outstanding 35%. The new White Jade Facial Roller, which enhances product absorption for optimal results, will be demonstrated.

LAMPROBE SA D8 Once a year, in Cape Town, Janine Thomson offers an Advanced Skin & Dermatology

LILIAN TERRY INTERNATIONAL SPA & WELLNESS PRODUCTS B16 Visit Lilian Terry International at stand B16 to experience our complexes, wraps and cups as well as to take advantage of show specials.

RAPPLE SALON PRODUCTS AND EQUIPMENT C21 Rapple Salon Products Equipment has launched a new range of green approved, animal cruelty free and vegan friendly hair products called Jean Paul Myne, imported from Italy. The range includes waterless hair colour, treatments, home care products and keratin treatments that are 100% formaldehyde free.

RĖGIMA SKIN TREATMENTS D4 Multiple award winning RégimA provides the highest percentage of supremely advanced antiageing actives exclusively for doctors, salons, spas.

Visit stand D4.

SKINIAL SOUTH AFRICA B18 STUDEX E14

MILK SOLUTIONS D6 Visit the Milk Solutions stand to discover the brand’s four ranges of professional, purpose-made mani-pedi treatment products – Milk & Honey, Fruit, Garden and Professional. Milk Solutions combines traditional and nontraditional beauty ingredients with advanced scientific technologies and processes to deliver effective, visible results.

Show offer 10%.

APS will be demonstrating to salon owners how offering a Studex ear piercing service can increase both income and foot traffic into their business.

MY APPOINTMENT D5 MY Appointment offers the latest mobile booking APP to keep your business profitable 24/7. The company offers full salon management including Payments, Reporting, Vouchers, Loyalty, Commission and more.

THE SPA WAREHOUSE D12 The Spa Warehouse will be showcasing its Cashmere & Co spa brand infused with fynbos essential oils, its gorgeous electrical aroma diffusers (ideal for spa use) as well as its standard spa uniforms.

NAILSFORU B1 nailsforu will be launching stunning new colours in the Go Lac Fast Soak Gel Polish Range.

The company will also be running a special on the Go Lac Peel Off Gel Polish Range.

YOUNG PIONEER D3

NSI WESTERN CAPE A18 NYX E10

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Professional Beauty Cape Town

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Africa

African Skin

Out of

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In Professional Beauty’s annual review on African skin, leading experts comment on the characteristics of this skin type.

t least half of the client base of the Pamper Perfect Salon in Linden, Johannesburg, has African skin.

Founder/owner of the salon and head therapist, Tsebeto Lebentlele, herself falls into this skin category.

“African skin has exactly the same amount of melanocytes compared to any other skin colour,” says Lebentlele. “The only difference is that the pigment pods/melanosomes contain large molecules of melanin compared to the smaller granules found in Caucasian skin. For this reason the skin pigments more easily as the surface area is bigger and the sun is able to reach this easier for stimulation of further pigment development.”

Founder of Environ Skin Care, Dr Des Fernandes, maintains that melanin is an amazingly powerful antioxidant. “Melanin is unusual in that it absorbs almost all the

different rays of light, from red right up to ultraviolet. Because of its absorption pattern, it reflects almost no colour and so we see it as black or very dark brown.”

When asked why African skin appears to age more slowly than Caucasian skin, Lebentlele responds: “African skin has a

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stronger structural integrity than Caucasian skin, hence it is more resistant to the ageing process.”

Diana van Sittert, head of education for pHformula adds: “African skin has denser collagen fibres and dermal epidermal junction structure, which leads to slower ageing. This skin type has more sebaceous glands, thus more oil production which allows for a stronger barrier protection.”

Lebentlele continues: “The increased number of oil glands and oil activity in African skin means it is not as easily affected by free radicals such as pollution, as would be the case with a Caucasian skin that tends to be less oily but show concerns of an impaired barrier.”

She points out that African skin tends to become easily inflamed and thus struggles with post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially when acne is involved.

Keeping the inflammatory response in the skin low is of utmost importance, according to Van Sittert. “Wonderful ingredients such as Niacinamide are great as an additional form of protection. Hydration also needs to be increased in order to gain an optimal oil and water balance in African skin.”

Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA comments that black skin is thicker than white skin due to the stratum corneum having more layers and a more compact dermis with larger, more numerous fibroblasts.

“There is increased cohesiveness which helps minimise facial wrinkles and helps reduce potential for irritation in black skin, which has a greater pore size with increased sebum secretion, although lower ceramides than white skin. The increased lipids ensure high moisture levels, however can result in an oily, problematic skin due to higher natural microbial skin flora being present.

“Glutathione is a natural antioxidant which is also

African skin has a stronger structural integrity than Caucasian skin, hence it is more resistant to the ageing process. known to inhibit epidermal melanogenesis. Black skins contain less glutathione than white skins leading to darker skin,” says Faucitt.

Sun avoidance Lebentlele notes that because the pigmentation forming cells in African skin have large melanosome pods filled with dense melanin / pigment, if the skin is exposed to trauma such as sun exposure or squeezing, the melanin producing effect is much faster and aggressive than in a Caucasian skin.

“Because of the size of melanin distribution in an African skin, it is 70% more easily affected

by sun damage,” she says. “It is also much harder to treat pigmentation once it is there so prevention is definitely better than cure. New studies show however that we cannot simply protect the skin against UVA and UVB rays anymore as the new danger is infrared radiation. This comes from laptops, cell phones and indoor lighting, so using a broad spectrum UVA, UVB and infrared protection SPF is key in this day and age. An African skin should not use a factor lower than 30 SPF,” says Lebentlele.

Fernandes adds: “The African epidermis is very sensitive to solar damage even though the deeper layers are better protected and so wrinkles are less likely to occur. We have to remember that there are two types of UV rays: UVB, which affects the epidermis in both white and black skinned people, and UVA which penetrates deeper into the dermis in lighter >

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african Skin

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African Skin

44 skinned people. Africans suffer from UVB damage mainly, and get less UVA damage to the dermis.”

Dr. med. Erich Schulte, founder of QMS Medicosmetics, agrees that smart sun behaviour is key to preventing further lightinduced skin discolorations and the damaging repercussions of free radicals.

“For targeted topical treatments, the most effective products feature the use of tyrosinase inhibitors such as the enzyme arbutin, which disrupts the chain of signals that leads to

the overproduction of pigment.

Extensive discolorations can be treated in this way and over a few weeks, the uneven brown blotches will reduce.

“Regular facial or body treatments can help, particularly when they feature targeted products and effective exfoliants, as these help stimulate the cell renewal process and keep the skin healthy. Chemical peels and lasers are also used for the more serious cases but advanced prevention is always the best treatment.”

The Ashy’s African skin sometimes presents with a dull grey cast, known as ‘the Ashys’. Lebentlele continues: “An ashy appearance is normally the result of a skin not exposed to exfoliation, as well as a buildup of oil due to using incorrect cleansing techniques.

“The most common product concern that adds to an ashy appearance is SPF (sun protection factor).

When the SPF contains physical sunscreen such as titanium dioxide, it will leave an ashy appearance. This is why using a superior formulation where nano titanium dioxide is used is the best option, or looking at a chemical SPF rather than a physical SPF.” Lebentlele advises her African clients to choose product ingredients that control oil production, such as salicylic acid, mandelic acid to control pigmentation and retinol to

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normalise cell functioning.

She warns strongly against any bleaching ingredients such as hydroquinone, which can give great immediate results but causes long term inflammation that will increase the pigmentation formation process.

Peeling Peeling should always be approached with caution, but particularly so in the case of clients with darker Fitzpatrick skin types. “Typical peeling can cause too much irritation and as a result cause inflammation that then leads to hyperpigmentation. The key with typical peeling is to go low and slow i.e. less layers, less time and lower concentrations.

“Using homecare products to inhibit the pigmentation process whilst having peeling treatments is key to maintaining a healthy balance.

I advise my clients to always opt for peels with a pigment inhibiting ingredients, such as mandelic acid peels. A great option filtering into the market is skin resurfacing versus peeling, which inhibits the pigment process, controls inflammation and therefore does not stand the chance of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” comments Lebentlele.

African skin is more acidic than Caucasian skin, maintains Fernandes. “I have found that when you peel an African skin, you have to use the gentlest peel. Black skin frosts more quickly and the burn seems to go deeper, so there is a real risk of developing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. If one peels too deeply then the horrible complication of hypo-pigmentation may occur.

Fortunately that is uncommon, but a blotchy complexion can be very obvious in dark skinned people.” PB

For more Info/Orders Email: Info@uniquecosmetics.co.za Tel: 011 854 2179 www.uniquecosmetics.co.za

MatsiMela Home Spa Introduces Shubaba Three Step Skin Care Program

Shubaba was developed to offer an easy to follow skincare solution with no hassles and optimum results. Making use of our unique formulation of actives, you can now target your main skincare concerns with our Three Step Program.

Additional spot treatments as well as targeted internal products ensure for a complete solution for dry, oily, problem and pigmented skin.

Now available through MatsiMela Home Spa For more information email info@matsimela.co.za or visit our website: www.matsimela.co.za

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African Skin

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treatments for TOPICAL

AFRICAN SKIN

Professional Beauty looks at just some of the latest products and treatments suited for the darker Fitzpatrick skin types.

Brightening Kalahari recommends two products that are ideal for African skin, the first being the Skin Brightening Gel. This is a combination of the highly effective plant extracts, namely alpha arbutin, carob leaf extract and kigelia Africana.

The treatment gel inhibits tyrosinase activity and melanin production, resulting in a visibly brighter and more even skin tone.

The Kalahari SPF 40 Sun Protection is a mineral-based sunscreen fortified with Kigelia Africana and Mongongo extracts that provide natural protection and anti-ageing properties. Its broad-spectrum, oil free formulation has a high UVA / UVB defence system, protecting the skin from harmful environmental factors while leaving the skin protected and hydrated.

Concentrated boost From Doctor Babor, the Vitamin C Booster Concentrate is an intensive six-week course of treatments for anyone who wants to combat

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pigment changes and an uneven complexion. With a 20% pure vitamin C derivative content, it protects the skin against oxidative damage.

Once in the skin, it is converted into ascorbic acid, allowing the vitamin C to develop its action precisely where it is needed.

A positive side-effect is that vitamin C also supports collagen production, which means that the serum firms the skin at the same time.

Sensitive touch

Certified organic From certified organic brand, Team Dr Joseph, the Deep Purifying Facial Maskis perfect for creating a pure and clean skin.

Active ingredients include usnea extract (calming), cococaprylate (an emollient, of natural origin); hamamelis extract BIO (firming and nurturing); honey extract BIO (moisturising); allantoin (calming); and zinc oxide (protection).

Precious pearl Specially designed for sensitive and problematic skin, the QMS MED Collagen Set has been re-developed to include new ingredients and an innovative Neotec A15 complex, making this three-piece anti-ageing skincare system even more effective in reducing the signs of ageing and loss of elasticity in the skin.

The MED Collagen Set comprises Dermabrasive Gel, Day Collagen Protection and Night Collagen Repair to provide gentle but effective daily treatment.

These perfectly combined products work in synergy to help rejuvenate the skin, diminish fine lines and wrinkles and stimulate cell renewal.

Black Pearl’s Luminescent Pearl Radiance, from the Perla Blanca range, harnesses the power and purity of Tahitian Black and White Pearl, to result in luminescent radiance.

Sensory rituals introduce the client to the magnificence of this pearl therapy, while the power of alpha-hydroxy acids and warm zeolite in combination with 24 carat gold, augment the hydrative and purifying power of the pearl.

User friendly MatsiMela recently launched its brand new Shubaba Skincare range, which focuses on the main concerns for African skin ((i.e. oily skin; dry skin; uneven tone; and problem skin).

Shubaba was developed to offer an easy-to-follow skincare solution with no hassles and optimum results. Its unique formulation of actives is evident in the Three Step Program.

This comprises: Step One – cleanse with Shubaba Face Wash (contains lemon, aloe and AHAs); Step Two – tone with Toner Mask (contains oxygen mineral boosting complex); and Step Three – moisturise with one of Shubaba’s four suitable moisturisers.

Other products in the Shubaba range include Face Mask Exfoliating, Tonic Tablets, Zit Buster and Dark Spot Remover.

Keloid attack To treat keloid scarring, DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care recommends the use of MD Prescriptives Intensive Scar Repair.

This rich emollient makes use of copper peptides, assisting to encourage the

Shop 4C, 103 Rivonia Rd, Sandton Gautrain Station, Sandton T: 073 092 2842 E: t.khuboni@icloud.com

closure of wounds, whilst promoting the normal basket weave formation of collagen.

Homecare recommendation is the inclusion of MD Prescriptives Vitamin A Propionate, used nightly to help minimise skin scarring as it normalises skin functioning and increases cellular turnover whilst balancing skin tone, and is especially beneficial for concerns of stubborn hyperpigmentation.

Daily use of MD Prescriptives SPF 50 is an absolute essential alongside the use of MD Prescriptives Vitamin A Propionate, providing high protection against both UVA and UVB radiation. >

African Skin

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African Skin

48 Diminishing pigmentation SKNlogic’s Diminish products are suitable for hyperpigmentation.

Diminish Day has 5% bearberry extract (alpha arbutin) to reduce melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase.

It effectively lightens spots and dark areas, while Vitamin E protects the skin from free radicals and assists with maintaining the skin’s oil balance. Citric acid replenishes the lipids in the top layer of the skin.

The protease enzymes in SKNlogic Exfoliate Enzymatic break down detached dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. They mimic the role of the own body’s natural protease enzymes and promote decay of the protein and dissolution of dead skin cells, thus stimulating cell renewal.

Power-ful treatment Experience has shown that post inflammatory hyperpigmentation can be treated extremely successfully with a series of in-salon RégimA Power Peel treatments and home care with active vitamin C, natural AHAs nightly and daily sun protection.

Rapid Rejuvo Masque, which is a very quick professional insalon treatment, has been proving to be a winner with the darker skins.

When performing Power Peels, the therapist must ensure that the client is only

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using RégimA home care. Peels must be formulated to work synergistically with the home care to produce the desired aesthetic result as well as skin health, as mixing ingredients in other products may be contraindicated.

Also from RégimA, the Pigment Perfector is a very popular choice for African skin as it can be used both morning and night and is also safe for application over and under the eyelids.

Prescription strength The pHformula Vita B3 Cream is light textured and contains niacinamide at prescription strength, which results in superior skin correction.

Ideal for daily and year-long application, it contains a 24hour moisturising complex.

Also from pHformula, the SOS Rescue Oil is a dualphase product that is a unique combination of oil blends and natural sourced actives, infusing the skin with a healthy glow and youthfulness.

Classy clay Vitamin A As Environ believes that all skins need vitamin A, the unique Environ Vitamin A step-up system is therefore suitable for African skin. It is recommended to introduce the skin to retinyl palmitate, as this feeds the skin with vitamin A and has photo protective properties.

In addition, Environ advises against harsh exfoliation and to always use an SPF, which should be reapplied throughout the day.

For clients new to Environ, the Original range is recommended; this includes preparatory products, vitamin A moisturisers, the Balancing Masque and RAD sun protection.

Professional treatments will always support the client’s home care regime, and the African client may be treated with the Professional Vitamin A serums, in combination with the Environ Ionzyme DF treatments.

As African skin tends to get oily, Dermalogica’s Dermal Clay Cleanser is a deep cleansing clay formula specifically created to purify oily skin.

Watersoluble kaolin and green clays, combined with purifying extracts of sambucus, ivy and lemon, remove excess oils and refine the skin’s texture.

In addition, calming cucumber and sage soothe, while refreshing menthol revitalises even the most tired skin. PB

49 Hair News

HSOTY Awards showcase SA industry

Crowning GLORY Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

Winners at the Twincare Hairstylist of the Year (HSOTY) 2018 Awards event, which took place in November at Johannesburg’s Lyric Theatre, were: Apprentice – Lauren Speight; Team – VNH; The Boys – Eric Way; Avant Garde – Eric von Brandis; Best Show – Eric von Brandis; and Hairstylist of the Year – Lewis Thomas

Talented oil

The highlights

Castor oil is an ancient remedy that has been used for years to treat hair loss. How the oil is extracted makes all the difference as the purer, the better. Nativechild’s Castor Oil Hairgrowth Oil is cold pressed to ensure it retains its natural properties and

As the Official Haircare Product of London Fashion Week, label.m marks the arrival of an industry first, with the launch of Highlighting Toner.

This collection comprises four unique sprays, directly inspired by the trend for make-up strobing, with an incredible luxe-metallic finish, to give colour highlights with an

potency. The oil also moisturises the scalp.

iridescent glow.

011 475 0551

021 448 8847

Inoar’s Kalice Multipurpose Oil contains Vitamin E and seven precious vegetable oils that are suitable for the hair, face and body. The special combination of argan, myrrh, macadamia, ojon, sweet almonds, jasmine and rosemary provides moisturising, nourishing, restorative, antioxidant, softening, protective and emollient care.

012 346 1721

Miracle in a bottle

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24-Hour Creams

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Perpetual

motion

Facial moisturising creams that can be used twice a day, in the morning and at night, are becoming more and more prevalent in the professional market place, as a viable option to specific day creams and night creams.

Artful artichoke The Six Age Reverse Cream delivers an advanced age fighting solution rich in artichoke leaf peptide, retinol and wild yam. With restored density and hydration, skin recovers comfort and suppleness and wrinkles are smoothed.

Rose Hip Oil (containing Vitamins E, C, D and B) increases cell turnover, while Black Current Seed Oil is anti-inflammatory.

011 312 7840

Classy collagen TheraVine’s UltraVine Rich Collagen Cream combines active peptides and proteins known as Trylagen, which effectively helps restore the collagen levels by boosting, organising and protecting the collagen.

This complex has shown a decrease in wrinkle depth of up to 35% after 30 days.

021 886 6623

The fundamentals Matis Fundamental Beautifying Cream is a revitalising and oxygenating moisturiser that repairs and stimulates tired skin lacking vitality.

It protects the skin from cellular ageing. Extract of Mimosa Tenuiflora provides calming, anti-bacterial properties, while Extract of Hyaluronic Acid hydrates the skin’s superficial layers and plumps fine lines.

011 305 1600

A lot of HYPE Doctor Babor Hydro Cellular products help to provide a long-lasting moisture boost, resulting in plump, even-looking skin and fewer lines. This effective duo comprises a cream and serum and contains the HYPE Complex (triple-action HYaluronic acid and HY 3 PEptides) and the NMF Moisturising Complex.

011 467 0110 online @ probeauty.co.za

24-Hour Creams

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Round-the-clock For 24-hour skin moisturisation benefits, DermaFix Skin ResQ is a weightless nourishing emollient blend formulated to include Murumuru Seed Butter and CoQ10. It offers anti-oxidant protection while keeping the skin moisturised, hydrated and supple with universal use.

0861 282 323

Plump up Skin Doctors Antarctilyne Plump3 contains the breakthrough skin plumper, Trylagen, scientifically proven to almost triple the appearance of collagen in just seven days.

011 486 4904

From the ‘Expert’ Phytomer’s Expert Youth Wrinkle Correction Cream contains a high-tech active complex designed to optimise the natural functions of skin stem cells, experts in skin renewal. It smoothes wrinkles and densifies tissue. Active ingredients include Seastem Complex, Glasswort oil and Oligomer.

011 486 4904

Canny moisturiser The QMS 24H Cream is a clever moisturiser with a built-in clock – during the day it protects whilst at night it relaxes and regenerates the skin. Through dynamically built caring-cycles, active ingredients and a moisturising factor unfold in a way normally achieved through multiple products.

0860 01 80 22

Marine magic Thalgo’s Hydra-Marine 24H Gel Cream is a light and airy emulsion that hydrates the skin with a delicate, non-oily freshness. With Sève Bleue from the Oceans to assist with intensive cellular hydration and better diffusion of light, this product also contains Lumisource to regain radiance.

011 880 3851/0

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Medical Aesthetics

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Naturally

more beautiful in 2018

A

Karen Ellithorne looks at the trends likely to dominate the medical aesthetics sector this year.

s the aesthetics industry shows continued growth year on year, it is obvious that this sector has the consumer’s attention.

However, as the consumer is becoming more educated and the treatments more evolved, there is a strong trend towards more natural approaches in beauty enhancements through fat transfers, needling and PRP (Platelet Rich Plasma) treatments.

The consumer preference when selecting aesthetic treatments now

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The consumer preference when selecting aesthetic treatments now tends towards a subtle enhancement rather than a dramatic, obvious and over worked effect.

tends towards a subtle enhancement rather than a dramatic, obvious and over worked effect.

Smaller breast augmentation Breast augmentation still tops the list in popularity as one of the most sought after cosmetic procedures.

But women seeking out this procedure are no longer lusting after large implants but smaller cup sizes that fit in more holistically with their body shape and proportion.Today, D and C cups are the average sizes requested by patients in comparison to the popular Double D’s and E’s of a few years back.

53

A recent article published in the Daily Mirror in the UK reported that statistics showed a 500% rise in surgical consultations for the ‘Brazilian buttock lift’.

While it seems that some are more willing to go under the knife for the perfect, heart shaped posterior, others are opting for the non-surgical option, with less risk of complications.

The surgical option is when a plastic surgeon transfers fat from unwanted areas of the body to the buttock area, while the nonsurgical version is performed by an aesthetic doctor and includes the use of a filler called Sculptra (made mostly of the ingredient polylactic acid). This is an FDA approved dermal filler that thickens the skin and stimulates collagen growth and enhances curves.

It was reported in the Daily Mirror that before an aesthetic doctor begins this treatment, the client is examined and it is determined what shape buttocks he or she has – V, H, O or A.

• V-shaped bums tend to have more fat on the waist and outer thighs. They have too little or too tight buttock skin and tissue to accept fat transfer, so a non-surgical treatment is often the best option.

• H shapes usually appear square, making the butt look flat from the side. Plastic surgeons find that this is the most commonly complained about shape.

• O shapes, though seen as attractive thanks to their round appearance, are actually less asked for than the heart-shaped bum.

• A-shaped bum is referred to as heart shape, and is seen as the most desired silhouette.

Patients generally see a result after the first session. However, the treatments need to be repeated three to four months later for a couple more sessions. After this the

Medical Aesthetics

Buttock contouring

buttock will appear even fuller as healthy skin and collagen form.

Results last for between 18 to 24 months before you need a top up, but because natural collagen forms as a result of the treatment, some patients see the volume lasting several years.

Neck rejuvenation We all try and strike the perfect balance between ageing gracefully and not looking older than we really are but the neck is like our hands in that it is one of the first areas to show the visible signs of ageing. An ageing neck is an age giveaway, especially if the face is beautifully rejuvenated and the neck neglected.

Non-surgical treatments, namely laser rejuvenation, micro needling treatments, botulinum toxin and filler are able to assist with the collagen and elastin loss in this delicate area that contributes to wrinkling and sagging.

In overweight patients or patients who have inherited double chins, there are lipolysis solutions available, namely Kybella and Cecarrelli. These injectables assist with dissolving or killing off the excess adipose tissue cell and therefore re-defining the jawline. > online @ probeauty.co.za

Medical Aesthetics

54 The male market is a rapidly increasing sector, with men having mostly wrinkle reduction injections, dermal fillers, laser resurfacing and hair removal, as well as skin peels.

Treatments

Toxins and other injectables are here to stay as the medical fraternity continually discovers more and more uses for botulinum toxin, fillers and threads and an increasing number of individuals benefit from these developments.

Don’t we all love wearing a pair of high heels, but hate the pain that comes with them?

Well, now we can look forward to the ‘Louboutin Lift’. This treatment involves injecting

dermal filler into the balls of the feet in order to achieve a cushioning effect. The treatment will have you enjoying your heels in no time and results are expected to last between six and 12 months.

The male aesthetic Men will continue to feel the pressure to look the best version of themselves in 2018, as they come to realise the benefit this can have on their self-confidence.

One of the treatments that continues to grow in popularity is the PRP / Vampire facial. The purpose of this treatment is to stimulate the patient’s collagen production via the use of the patient’s own platelets and fibrin, which is separated from their blood. This treatment is particularly good to volumise the face, neck and hands.

Over recent years vaginal makeover treatments have been top of the trends list but 2018 introduces rejuvenation of male sexual health in the form of the P shot (Priapus shot). This treatment involves the injection of PRP into the penis to rejuvenate it and to assist with new tissue growth. The treatment is said to help erectile dysfunction and generally improve sexual functioning for men.

Treating the body as a whole Medical aesthetic facilities have begun to transition from offering exclusive aesthetic treatments to promoting health and wellness in general and this seem to be a growing trend that is going to continue in 2018.

Treatments that are currently being offered by these outlets range from antiageing treatments, hormone replacement therapy, vitamin replacement and medically controlled weight loss.

Rather than only treating the surface level issues, aesthetic clinics are embracing a more complex solution with a united goal of not only assisting patients to look better but to feel better too. PB A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

Product News

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market IN THE

Our round-up of new products and treatments.

Energetic lotion

Complex active

Super seaweed

With a high concentration of Alpha and Beta Hydroxy acids (14%) in a lightweight emulsion, the SKNlogic Multi Active Lotion is an intensive treatment for increased cell turnover to restore skin suppleness, clarity and texture.

EpiGen Daily-Detox Serum from QMS Medicosmetics includes a highly innovative active ingredient complex that helps to deactivate the negative chemical markings that are having a detrimental impact on the skin, while accelerating epidermal regeneration.

Pro-Collagen Marine Oil from Elemis is a replenishing facial oil for all skin types, formulated with a trio of seaweeds: padina pavonica, golden seaweed and raring water kelp.

These help to support the skin’s moisture, while the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles is visibly reduced.

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0860 01 80 22

011 325 1000

Complete therapy Bellabaci is a complete solution that incorporates different healing modalities such as cupping, lymphatic drainage, homeopathy, aromatherapy and vibrational frequency in one treatment.

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online @ probeauty.co.za

Product News

56

Easy does it!

Eqyptian Queen

The StylPro Brush Cleaner & Dryer cleans, conditions and dries make-up brushes within 20 seconds, whereas traditional cleaning methods are messy, laborious and can leave brushes wet and unsuable for up to 24 hours.

Black Pearl’s 24K Gold Nefertiti Neck & Décolleté Mask is formulated with ReGeniStem Brightening to promote a more even skin tone, while Helioguard 365 protects against harmful UVA rays. Hydrating Unimoist U-125 and hyaluronic acid help to renew the skin’s moisture.

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Nutty oil The revolutionary ingredient in the Seza Skin Care range is Manketti oil, an organically harvested nut oil with an impressive blend of fatty acids essential for healthy skin. This pure, certified-organic product naturally nourishes the skin on a cellular level. Manketti oil is high in vitamins E and C.

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online @ probeauty.co.za

WE ARE

LOOKING

FOR

DISTRIBUTORS

Issue 18

Jan/Feb 2018

Shutterstock

Fine art

Tailor-made Customising services

Decorative nails

Perfect Pantone Ultra Violet

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global beauty trend that strongly emerged last year and is set to continue indefinitely, is the customer’s desire for customised treatments, as opposed to the ‘one size fits all approach’. Customers are now wanting treatments that specifically meet their own particular needs.

In this issue, we asked our team of experts how to go about customising nail, foot and hand treatments and services in the salon.

They have provided some invaluable information on how to do this while remaining competitive and profitable in the process. Clearly one of the most important things is to ask questions, as only then will you know exactly what the client is looking for.

We also put an emphasis, in this issue, on the importance of preserving the health and growth of the client’s natural nail, as well as the very real value of sharing knowledge, information and techniques in the industry, so as to uplift to overall standard of the nails sector in South Africa.

Our regular Top Tech Talk and Salon Focus features in Nail File have proved very popular with readers, as they give a face to the industry, in addition to providing inspiring reads. I am sure you will find this issue no exception.

Wishing you all the best for 2018 and scores of beautiful nails!

Shutterstock

Welcome

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Issue 18

Jan /Feb 201 8

Tailor-ma de

Fine ar

t Decorativ e nails

Customi sing servic es

Perfect Pa nton

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

What’s inside Nail File

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67

70

59

65

69

Industry News

Style Savvy

Nail Nurture – Part 1

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66

Ask the Experts

Salon Focus

Stay in the know

Customising services to suit clients’ needs

64 Business

Sharing knowledge, information and techniques in the industry online @ probeauty.co.za

Purple perfection

A very ‘Plush’ salon

67 A new dimension in nail art How this sector has evolved

The health and growth of the natural nail

70 Top Tech Talk Debora Franks

72 In the Market Product Hub

e

Ultra Vio let

59 Business Trends News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips

Jessica partners with SA distributor

S

pa and Salon Solutions owner, Karen Ellithorne, who originally introduced the Jessica Cosmetics brand to South Africa in the late nineties, is once again partnering with the brand.

Says Ellithorne: “In late 2017 we launched the Jessica GELeration Soak-off Gel System in South Africa and the 10-day wearing Phenom colours. We look forward to seeing Jessica Cosmetics making a healthy comeback to the local market in 2018.”

The Jessica Cosmetics brand was founded by the Romanian, Jessica Vartoughian, the woman who would become known as ‘The First Lady of Nails’.

Commenting on why the Jessica brand has always appealed to her, Ellithorne says: “I love the Jessica philosophy that everyone has a different nail type and that if each individual nail type receives the correct care, everyone can have their own beautiful, natural nails.

“When I first took on the brand, natural manicures and pedicures were not as popular as they are today and I saw it as a gap in the market. I decided to sell the brand in early 2000 and it slowly dwindled away in South African thereafter.

“On a recent trip to Cosmoprof Las Vegas, I met up with Jessica Vartoughian again and saw how the range had evolved. My company had a gap in its product offering to customers and I thought that this could be a great new synergy.”

Ellithorne points out that

Varthougian revolutionised nail care with a technique that was ahead of its time – the natural nail transplant.

“This was a way of repairing a natural nail with the broken natural nail, or with a nail from a nail bank completely naturally without weakening the client’s natural nail. Jessica herself came out to South Africa a few times in the early nineties to teach this technique to local nail technicians,” explains Ellithorne.

Nail Therapy opens second school Seleena Pillay has opened her second Nail Therapy Training School, this time in Umhlanga Rocks, KwaZulu-Natal.

“I opened my first school under my own management in Phoenix, Durban in October 2015. Last year we experienced a big demand for training and Umhlanga is more central for students and technicians coming from all over Durban. I also have students that come through from rural and outer lying areas, and some haven’t ever seen the sea, so it’s an added bonus to their course.

I am looking at branching out into other provinces as we’ve even

attracted students from as far afield as the Eastern Cape.”

Pillay notes that Nail Therapy is a SAAHSP accredited Nail Training School, which offers students 7 CPD (Continuing Professional Development) points on its Nail Technology qualification.

In each class Pillay presents a ‘showstopper’ nail art design. “I feel that Durban needs to do a bit of a catch-up in terms of nail art. I look at beautiful sets from Durban techs every day and all I see is crystals, stamps and glitter.

However there is a small percentage of techs doing amazing hand painted original nail art.”

Pillay recently launched her Spa Therapy range, which includes cuticle oils.

online @ probeauty.co.za

OPI sets Guinness World Record

PR Newswire

Business Trends News

60

I

n late October, OPI set a Guinness World Record for The World’s Longest Manicure Bar. The event was held in Santa Monica, California, from 9am – 5pm, where all were invited to attend and receive a free OPI GelColor manicure to help OPI make history.

To achieve the goal, OPI created a 155ft long manicure bar

sprawled out along Santa Monica’s famous 3rd Street Promenade shopping area, just steps from the beach.

More than 50 nail technicians were seated along the bar giving event attendees GelColor manicures with OPI’s newly launched innovation, ProHealth Top and Base Coat.

Correction The October/November 2017 issue of Nail File included a special feature on the Professional Beauty Nail Championships. An incorrect result was published in terms of the 3rd place in the Sculpting Gel Intermediate category. Leandre Kruger was in fact placed 3rd.

Calgel is a gentle, natural looking gel nail system.

Developed in South Africa and trusted by nail technicians for the past 25 years. Internationally recognized.

CALGEL IS AN ORIGINAL GEL SYSTEM THAT OFFERS:

• Quality gel nails that do not lift, crack or chip • Variety of colours • Learn easy nail art skills • No damage to the natural nails (breathable quality) • Versatility (sculpting, overlays, tip overlays, nail art etc.)

• Variety of training options available

CAL-MO (PTY) LTD. WWW.CAL-MO.COM T: 011 624 1101 E:INFO@CAL-MO.COM @CALGELSOUTHAFRICA @CALGEL_OFFICIAL_SA

Business Advertorial Trends

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l i a N c i h p Photogra ! e g n e l l a h De si g n C nd a e v i t a e r C Get ls l i k s r u o y e showcas

We are really excited to announce that NailFile is launching a Photographic Nail Design Challenge. In each issue of NailFile we will be setting the theme for the challenge in the next issue.

So you have a limited time to get

A

your entries in.

ll entries can be sent in via email and will feature in the next issue with the name of the winner who will also receive a prize to the value of R1,200.00, sponsored by Calgel. At the end of the year, all the winning entries will be looked at once again and the overall winner will be chosen.

The theme for our first challenge is, “Pop Art”. Winners will receive a one-year free subscription to Professional Beauty & NailFile and exposure in the magazine as well as a prize from the participating sponsor.

• The designs must be created according to the theme above “Pop Art”.

• All 10 of the model’s nails must have a gel polish creation on them, each design on each nail must be different but must complement one another, be consistent in design and flow throughout all 10 nails.

• Designs must be the nail stylist’s own original work and not copied.

• Please provide a brief step by step of your work.

• Photos must be submitted by no later than the 26th of February 2018.

• Photos must be emailed to nailfile@probeauty.co.za • The judges decision is final.

Please visit www.probeauty.co.za/nailfile.htm for a complete list of the rules Should you have any questions please kindly contact the Competition Director: email: nailfile@probeauty.co.za or call on 076 585 4191.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business

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ask

the experts

QUESTION: How do I customise my services and treatments to suit clients’ needs?

TRACY MULLER When I look at this question I think of myself when I go to a hairdresser, or for a facial. Each time I go my budget and my time vary, so I choose what best suits me at that time. I choose a hairdresser or therapist that can meet my needs.

So, who are your clients, what are they asking you for, are you meeting their needs and is there a gap in the market that you can fill? As a salon owner do you have different options to offer your client base?

Do your homework properly.

Look at the salons around you – what are they offering and what do they charge? Are you

competitive? You will need to obtain a product cost and return to ensure that you are charging enough to make your business profitable but still remain competitive. In other words, what does your product cost you and what do your overheads cost you?

Many clients like a menu type price list, for example: Spa Pedicure. This could either be one set price or a price for each step (Preparation / Paint / Exfoliation / Mask / Heel Treatment / Massage), allowing your client to design a package best suited to her budget and time.

Are you offering your client

Tracy Muller opened her own nail salon in 1998 and became area manager for KZN Bio Sculpture a year later. Both Muller’s husband and daughter subsequently joined the salon and their mission is to empower therapists to become successful business owners.

online @ probeauty.co.za

options based on her nail type, condition and length? Do you offer her gel, gel polish, varnish etc. allowing her to choose based on need, time and budget. Some products are more expensive and take longer than others, allowing you to design a price list with cheaper and more expensive options.

Nail Art is almost a must in every salon and should be charged for according to time taken, product used and difficulty in application.

Ensure your client fully understands her choices before and not after the treatment.

YVETTE NEL To understand, your clients’ needs questions should be asked.

In previous articles we have stressed the importance of having client information forms (digital is preferred) and doing client consultation. This enables you to hear your clients.

They often need some time to think before being able to say what they would really prefer during a treatment, or as a combination of treatments. As a salon you should do client surveys on a quarterly (every three months) basis. There are a few methods to pursue here.

If, on the client info, the client indicated he/she prefers a certain way of communicating (i.e. sms /

email / WhatsApp) then you are able to engage in the specified manner. Sometimes giving clients a personal call as the owner establishes that you care and take a serious interest in your business.

The key is to limit your questions to three max.

Another way of getting insight is through social media, especially Facebook and LinkedIn. The information you receive here could be very different to what you receive from your existing clients. Social media platforms represent a vast group of individuals that may range from existing clients to inactive clients, potential new clients, friends of your existing clientele, etc. Doing

surveys via social media will reveal the consumer’s needs and their favourite trends, etc.

This information gives you a commodity more valuable than gold, namely data.

capturing information, it’s about communicating, asking questions and analysing your client‘s nails and skin to see exactly what they might need. Only then will you then be able to make the appropriate recommendations and perform a beneficial treatment with products that can provide them with exactly what they need.

Customising a treatment can be as simple as adding in an extra step and product to a mani or pedi service to provide additional and deep moisturisation for a client’s skin that is very dry or dehydrated. For example: a paraffin wax treatment or

moisturising mask wrapped with hot towels, or a callous removal treatment to remove thick dry callouses. When it comes to colour coatings and enhancements, offer your clients the latest in on trend looks.

Most importantly, don’t forget that retail goes hand in hand with customising a treatment and making a recommendation to maintain the efficiency and longevity of that treatment.

With so much at our disposal in terms of quality professional products and advancement in treatment technology, the possibilities are endless. Not only does customising your clients treatments and services provide something the client needs, but it is also upselling your treatments, which means more money in your pocket.

Yvette Nel is a diverse nail, health and beauty influencer with 14 years of experience in nail/beauty salons,education, marketing, retail and distribution. Nel is the founder of Trend Mi Life.

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG Today’s customer isn’t just looking for a quick treatment to make their tips and toes look gorgeous, they want more than that. Clients have become far more knowledgeable about what is available and want treatments that provide proper care to keep their nails tough and durable, as well as their skin hydrated.

Every client that walks through your door is different, which means you can’t offer exactly the same treatment for each of them.

Although you might think a mani is a mani and a pedi a pedi, it’s not!

Yes, all treatments have the same basic protocols and steps, but your clients have specific needs and requirements and to be able to accommodate those needs, you need to customise your services accordingly.

The secret to customising treatments is simple – the first step is to conduct a full consultation, which includes questions about the client’s health, past treatment experiences and preferences.

Consultation is not just about

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 28 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business

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Business

64

Sharing knowledge, information and techniques in the industry Competition is said to be a good thing, and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that as long as it’s healthy. If it’s not, it can be very damaging to the nail sector, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

B

ecoming a serious nail professional or salon owner takes more than just watching a couple of YouTube videos and tutorials. It all begins with having a good, sound education and knowledge about absolutely everything that encompasses the nail business.

With the rate at which our industry is growing and with salons opening up left right and centre, it’s no wonder there is such a huge demand for nail technicians, leading to more and more product suppliers and training providers popping up all over the place. Even the internet is flooded with suppliers you can buy products from. This may sound like a positive thing, offering the ‘wannabe nail tech’ more choice, but in fact it’s not. All that is happening is a dilution of our industry, placing less emphasis on the value and importance of education and professionalism in our industry, with absolutely anyone now able to buy products, even without a qualification or proof that they have done any form of training.

Unfortunately there are no set standards or guidelines in place to ensure that proper professional protocols and practices are being adhered to.

Training providers and qualifications There definitely seems to be a general lack of proper information and training in the South African industry. In the US, nail technicians have to be qualified, write a state

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board exam and be licensed before they can work in a salon. Here, there are no such regulations in place, even though there are very good, reputable training providers out there who are making the effort to become accredited and offering qualified courses. There still seems to be a trend where wannabe budding nail techs attend a short nail course and ‘become’ a nail tech in a matter of a few days. Seriously, don’t be fooled into thinking you can become a good, professional nail technician overnight, it’s just not possible.

Then there is wonderful You Tube, which is absolutely great to get ideas from if you’re already qualified, but there are more and more nail techs these days who are self taught and learning off YouTube from scratch.

A lack of proper training is unfortunately leading to malpractice, sanitation and hygiene lapses and misinformation, resulting in untold problems. Improperly trained nail techs also don’t understand the difference between buying products from an authorised professional supplier, or one that sells grey market products.

Product suppliers Most professional suppliers will only supply you with products if you are either a qualified nail technician, or if you attend a proper training course with them.

Others are happy to supply you over the internet without asking a single question; some of these will be brands you have never heard of, others are grey market suppliers who supply so called well-known brands in competition to the same original brands. Yes the products will be cheaper, however be careful as these products are cheaper for a reason and there is no educational or after sales support. If they are happy to supply you without a qualification then it should be a NO GO. There’s no place for people who are not properly trained as it can cost your business dearly.

The one thing you definitely can’t afford to compromise is your client’s trust, as it’s the most difficult thing to regain once broken.

65 Style Savvy

Purple perfection Each year global colour authority, Pantone, announces a shade for the coming year that inevitably has a strong impact on the fashion runways, as well as the design, make-up and nail sectors, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

A

fter waiting patiently for weeks for the Pantone Colour of 2018 to make its appearance, I started to think there wasn’t going to be one. What? I thought, that’s not possible as every year a new Pantone shade is announced, along with its pairing shades, which is what the nail colour collections are inspired by. However, at the very last minute on 8 December, Pantone announced that the magical Ultra Violet (Pantone 18-3838) would be the one.

Surprise, surprise! Not only was Ultra Violet announced as the Pantone colour for 2018, along with 11 other pairing shades, but to top it all, four additional classic core colours have been added to the collection. These shades exceed the expectations for the upcoming 2018 seasons, providing the basis to which the contrasting colours can be added.

People have become far more aware of colour, and the meaning and messages it conveys. Colour also inspires and influences everything around us. Everyone also loves a little variety and it affords countless possibilities. I guess that’s the reason for such a vast palette, showcasing a total of 16 of the most vibrant and exceptional shades for 2018, ranging from the most neutral serene tones to more vivacious, uplifting shades.

When looking at this beautiful kaleidoscope of colours, wondering which shade I would’ve chosen, Ultra Violet was definitely

not one of them at first. But, after reading more about the message it carries, it makes perfect sense, so completely different to previous Pantone colours of the year, such as 2017’s Greenery, and others, which were more grounded.

Somewhat magical and out there, conveying originality and ingenuity, Ultra Violet is a multifaceted shade that entrances and captivates, drawing you into a fantasy world of mysticism. The more you look at it the more it reflects and embeds itself, complex and contemplative, suggesting the mysteries of the cosmos and the infinite night sky. It instills a carefree imaginative spirit in me that feels inspired and ready to take on the world.

Laurie Pressman of The Pantone Colour Institute says: “Ultra Violet is not based only on what’s trending but rather about what it means and reflects, the intrigue of what lies ahead, the discoveries beyond where we are now and the desire to pursue a world beyond our own.

Enigmatic purples have also long been symbolic of counterculture, unconventionality, and artistic brilliance. Musical icons Prince, David Bowie, and Jimi Hendrix brought shades of Ultra Violet to the forefront of western pop culture as personal expressions of individuality. Nuanced and full

Treasure Chest

Viola Ice

Anime-zing Color

Jelly Bean

Purple Party

My Love for Amethyst

of emotion, the depth of Ultra Violet symbolises experimentation and non-conformity.” *Pantone information and image sourced from www.pantone.com

Salon Focus

66

A very ‘Plush’ salon Joanna Sterkowicz talks to salon owner Tania Biddle about how she grew her onewoman operation in Roodepoort into a thriving business that is fully booked for months in advance.

P

lush Nails & Beauty was formerly known as the Bio Sculpture Salon – West Rand and first opened back in 2009.

“It was always my biggest dream to have my own salon – I had a vision which I was determined to see come to life,” says owner Tania Biddle, who is a qualified cosmetologist and make-up artist, as well as head of education for Bio Sculpture Gel International.

She continues: “I learnt as much as I could in a short period of time.

To be honest, I never thought that the salon would be what it is today.

When I first opened it I was very young but I had such determination to make it work. I helped every client that I could and really put in the hours. A real bonus is that the salon feels more like a hobby and a passion than a day job.

“There are many nights that I spend in front of my laptop, with long hours and scarifies made but I have loved seeing the business grow. When I’m not at the salon for a period of time I miss it and spend time coming up with ideas on

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improvement, or for something new.”

Biddle acknowledges the support and love of her husband and family who believed in her every step of the way.

Expansion After three years of working alone, Biddle hired an additional therapist. A year later she became an official Bio Sculpture Gel educator.

Nail services generate 80% of Plush’s business and Biddle, who herself is fully hands-on in the salon, now employs three nail techs in total – Marijke De Meyer (senior technician), Bianca van der Linde and Leandra Fourie.

“I’ve always been very selective when choosing techs as they need to share my passion for the industry. My team is so dedicated and skilled and they are the force behind the salon.

They go out of their to way make each treatment an unforgettable experience for the client,” states Biddle.

Last year Biddle took the decision to change the salon’s name to Plush Nails & Beauty as she wanted to create a business identity for her brand.

Most of Biddle’s clientele is from word of mouth and referrals. “I believe the salon has been successful thus far because I listen to what the client has to say. Furthermore, we invest a lot of time into training to make sure that we are updated with the latest trends and techniques in the nail and beauty industry,” she says.

67 Nail Art

A new dimension in

nail design

So much has changed and advanced when it comes to nail art that it has become so much more than just art – it has entered into an exciting new realm, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

N

ail art draws attention to the nails and changes their appearance to portray something distinctive and different from the norm. It also showcases a nail professional’s ability and skill.

In the past woman have mostly expressed their style through their clothing, hair, make-up and accessories, but today nails are the perfect little canvases to express one’s personality and individuality.

The fashion catwalks of New York, London, Paris and Milan have become an inspiration and platform for nail brands and nail stylists to invent, create, design and showcase their works of art to the world. This is nail couture at its best.

With such a huge selection of nail products available, nail art no longer has to be just a simple gold or silver stripe with a rhinestone here and there. Nail stylists are now able to explore their creativity, creating a variety of looks never dreamt of before, taking an ordinary manicure

or pedicure and turning it into something a little more, trendy and extraordinary. Your client’s nails can now be the ultimate fun, or classic, on trend fashion accessory.

Ongoing trend Nail art used to be very specialised and performed by only a few very creative and artistic nail techs, on a handful of clients. It was also somewhat of a craze that used to come and go and then return again in waves, each time accompanied by a new but very particular style that stayed popular for a short while, until something new came about.

Now nail art has become more of an ongoing trend, you just have to surf the internet, or access the various social media platforms to see just how much nails have come into the limelight. Nail professionals are now also making a full on career out of nail design, either by becoming celebrity, fashion,

online @ probeauty.co.za

Nail Art

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nails without it being too out there.

It’s also not just about design but shape too, from coffin to ballerina, almond and stiletto to the more unconventional Russian almond and edge shapes.

photographic, or magazine nail stylists and even nail design educators.

There are some very well-known and remarkable nail stylists out there that specialise in nail design, such as: Tracey Lee (an absolute expert at doing the most spectacular photographic nail design work); Tracey Owgan (who does astounding tip box as well as 3D & 2D designs); Sam Biddle (an educator and stylist who creates phenomenal custom colour designs); and the Professional Beauty Nail Championships Nail Technician of the Year – Nadia Erasmus – who is an outstanding all-rounder at most nail design styles and is fully booked with creating nail designs on her clients daily.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Meeting the demand I really think it’s so important for every nail professional to learn and be able to perform some form of basic nail design work, as there is far more of a demand for it than there used to be. Clients see something that catches their eye on the internet and are quick to ask their nail tech to replicate it.

There also isn’t any one particular style of nail art that is currently more popular than another; some trends from the past have come full circle, but with a completely new edge and flair. Nail design has become far more wearable, leaning towards offering clients more simplistic options of having something different on their

With your everyday nail products and basic techniques, you can find the most imaginative ways to achieve the most simplistic yet beautiful classic designs and looks.

Using negative space, ombre and chrome effects, to more sophisticated elaborate swirls and intricate line and latticework, you will be able to create designs that are on trend and extraordinary. Even just a simple accent nail in a different colour with a few rhinestones can look stunning.

These types of designs and styles are also far easier for nail professionals to master, unlike the more skilled design work like 3D, 2D, encapsulated and custom colour nail art, which are more complicated and require time, patience and a high level of skill.

Nail Nurture – Part 1: The health and growth of the natural nail As nail professionals it is our duty and responsibility to nurture and preserve a client’s natural nails, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

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his series came about due to the passion I have for this industry and ensuring nail professionals are well informed about everything to do with their profession.

The growth and the health of the natural nail go pretty much hand in hand; if the natural nail unit is in a good healthy condition, then it will grow and develop normally.

However if it is in a poor condition or being mistreated, then it will most definitely have an adverse effect on the overall health and development of the natural nail.

There are a number of factors that can affect the health of the natural nail in either a positive or a negative way. You often hear people say they were born with thin, weak nails, or that their nails are so brittle and that they never grow. Some of these conditions and factors are out of our control but some can definitely be prevented and helped.

The matrix The nail plate originates at the matrix, known as the root, or as I like to call it, ‘the Mother of the nail’. This is where all the new cells develop and then grow out to form the nail plate. The matrix is

responsible for the thickness of your nail plate and its condition

Poor health and nutrition People who are not very healthy, or who have certain serious illnesses and are on strong medication, may find their nails are adversely affected. Some diseases and disorders of the skin and nails are harmless, however some can lead to various serious problems. It’s important to understand whether they are contagious or not, what causes them, and how these conditions are dealt with so that they are not spread or made worse. Remember we are not doctors, so DON’T diagnose and DON’T prescribe, rather refer your client to a doctor or podiatrist, as only they are allowed to remove corns, bunions, warts, and even ingrown toenails, as well as treat serious and contagious nail conditions, diseases or disorders.

Overexposure to chemicals and misuse of products Always use products and chemicals carefully and according to manufacturers’ instructions.

Overusing products can lead to overexposure, resulting in allergic reactions and service breakdown.

Use good quality professional products sold by authorised suppliers and distributors who provide proper education and support and stay away from grey market imports.

Trauma Severe trauma definitely affects the health and growth of the natural nail and can lead to permanent damage, or even the loss of the entire nail plate.

There are three types of trauma: accidental (bumping a nail or catching it in a door); self-inflicted (biting or picking the nails); and malpractice (poor hygiene and sanitation, harsh manicuring and preparation technique, incorrect filing, improper application; and unsafe removal techniques).

Ensuring the proper care and health of your clients’ natural nails is imperative if you want to be a successful and reputable nail professional.

I would like to thank the internationally recognised scientist, Doug Schoon, for instilling the necessary knowledge in me and other nail techs globally. He has also just launched three new amazing books on nails.

online @ probeauty.co.za

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Q&A

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Top Tech Talk Nail File talks to Debora Franks to find out how a young nail tech went from being an apprentice to an award-winning nail artist.

Congratulations on winning the 2017 Nail File Showcase Photographic Nail Art competition. How was your entry inspired?

At the beginning of 2017 I couldn’t wait to see what the theme for this category would be. I just loved the idea of ‘Beauty and the Beast’ right from the beginning and couldn’t wait to get started.

I watched the new version of ‘Beauty and the Beast’ and just loved the way that Disney interpreted the characters. That was my main inspiration. I wanted the nails to truly tell the story and also capture the beautiful characters. The main theme for my set of nails was the rose. This has such a beautiful meaning in the story.

You also placed second in the gel polish creations category of the 2017 Professional Beauty Nail Championships.

Was this the first time you competed in a live competition?

Yes it was. I would recommend the experience to any professional nail technician. It is the scariest, most amazing experience. It pulls you out of your comfort zone.

I learned so much and can’t wait to compete again this year.

Early in 2017 you won the online Calgel Nail Art competition, which obviously gave you confidence but how did you deal with the pressure of competing live at the Professional Beauty Nail Championships?

I have the most amazing support team in my family who are the most wonderful human beings you will ever meet. They helped to keep me sane, which in turn helped me to remain focused.

My clients love nail art and are in search of new ideas every month.

online @ probeauty.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

What do nails mean to you?

Where did you do your training?

Nails are my passion.

Sometimes they feel like a lifestyle to me as nail art is everywhere. It is part of this generation’s fashion statement.

The trends grow daily, and so does nail art. Everyday life is the biggest inspiration for nail art. The most amazing factor is that every client is different.

I am drawn towards any type of technique and art, therefore I love to create new ideas on my clients. They can feel free to express their personality through nail art. This also gives me the opportunity to feel free every day.

I qualified as a professional nail technician through Nail Excellence, for acrylic and gel. In addition I have completed various nail art training courses through different nail institutions (i.e.

Velena, NSI, Calgel and nailsforu).

I have learned so much from these professional technicians.

The one thing I always take to heart is the passion and precision these professionals embody.

Neatness and precision is the goal.

Not only have I seen my nail art techniques improve, but also my enhancement techniques.

When did you first decide that you wanted to do nails for a living?

I had a vision from the beginning and try to implement this vision every day in my business. My moto is: ‘Stay updated with new trends’. My clients’ needs are very important to me and I’m always wanting to improve my techniques. I am also very active on social media and make YouTube videos of my nail art, and also upload pictures of my nail art on Facebook and Instagram. This has helped me grow my business tremendously.

I started out as an apprentice for my Mom at her hair salon in Claremont (Pretoria) the first year after matric. To start with I began experimenting with nail polish on my Mom’s clients for small donations.

I loved the feeling of creating and treating nails so I decided to learn more. I loved nail art from the beginning, practised enhancements and went for nail art training. After my first nail art workshop I never looked back as I knew this was my true passion. I’ve now been at my Mom’s salon for six years and it’s such a privilege working with her. She is very supportive in everything I want to achieve.

How have you grown your business?

Do the majority of your clients request nail art?

This is definitely the main attraction at my salon. My clients love nail art and are in search of new ideas every month. Nail art is this huge explosion in our industry; there are no limits.

Q&A

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What have been the most popular forms of nail art that you have done in the salon over the past six months?

The mermaid/ unicorn is very popular, incorporated with nail shapes like the coffin, stiletto and almond. Some clients want the hand painted unicorn, others just want the inspiration for example, glitter, holographic, chrome etc.

The marble look and watercolor look is a favourite, as it is delicate and fashionable.

I would say the all-time favourite is the tulip flower – it is a minimalistic design and looks amazing. Then of course cartoon/animation characters are very popular, as they are a real fun, sweet look. Glitter has definitely been the trend. My clients are very adventurous, especially with different nail shapes.

What is your personal favourite nail art technique?

I love the one stroke nail art technique. It is very delicate and beautiful. I love how you blend the colors and how with each stroke you can create an intricate masterpiece.

online @ probeauty.co.za

72 In the Market

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.

Kid’s stuff Nailmatic kids is a gentle, water-based nail polish that is made in France and specifically formulated for children. It is guaranteed to be free from organic solvents, phthalates, formaldehyde, toluene and fragrance. Because the nail polish washes off with warm water and soap, or in the bath, there is no need for nail polish remover.

011 786 1020

Shimmer and shine Echoing the recent Festive Season, Bio Sculpture Gel’s latest colours – Joy (with its copper sparkle) and Tinsel (a metallic glitter sensation) – are available in the brand’s Evo Gel line and the original Bio Sculpture Gel nail system respectively.

051 943 0377

On a mission Create beautifully intricate line art with Young Nails’ Mission Control Precision Gel Paint. Master the details and achieve total control over nail art when using this exclusive gel paint formula for a super shine, rich pigmentation, advanced viscosity, easy workability and a cure with zero tacky layer.

011 393 2791

Brush it off The Glimmerstone Nail Art Brush from LCN is an extremely fine nail art brush with artificial hair and glimmer stones. It comes with an additional cap to protect your brush from UV light. The brush is suitable for LCN nail art UV Gels, for painting fine lines and decorations.

010 593 3293 online @ probeauty.co.za

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