July web

July 2013

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On the cutting-edge Latest hair innovations

PB JHB conventions Full programme details inside

Nailing it Competition preparation

Medical Aesthetics Battling oxidative stress

Switched On Understanding light-based technology

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CONTENTS

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61

49

July 2013 Regulars

Spa Focus

9 Industry news Local and international news from the beauty front

25 Spa news Speakers secured for Johannesburg’s International Spa Convention

21 Business Selling point

27 Pure indulgence Showcasing Bakwena Day Spa

22 Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys Interactive wellness column

49 Aspire for excellence

Competition preparation

64 Product news All the latest launches

Features

68 SAAHSP What’s happening at SAAHSP

Pic: Biosense

29 Switched on Understanding light-based technology 57 On the cutting edge The latest in hair

Nails

41 Treatment reviews Chemical peels

57

16 Preserve and regenerate One-on-one interview with QMS Medicosmetics’ Dr Schulte

Medical Aesthetics 61 Age attack Battling oxidative stress

14 Tribe get together Celebrating Dermalogica tribe’s global growth

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WELCOME

T

he words that keep coming into my conscious mind of late are: be creative, and when I sat down to write this month’s editor’s note, those same words popped into my head. I don’t believe in coincidences.

The message is clear, and needs to be conveyed to all those in industry – this is the time of the year where we should be being proactive, but we unfortunately feel like we have already expended all our energy in the first six months of the year, and we don’t have any left.

Wrong – the ready-to-go attitude of the New Year needs to make a second appearance, as this is when things get tough in our industry and if you don’t think creatively, come up with new ideas, and make changes –you are the only one that is going to suffer in the long run. Your clients will get bored, starting looking for

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something new, and if the facility down the road has it, you can say goodbye. I am not saying that this is the only aspect to focus on, because quality of service and professionalism are still very much up there on the priority list, but with a changing society, you need to consider change – it can be a very small change, such as introducing a new signature treatment, or it could be the right time to invest and revamp your look. You decide. Take some time and be creative!

Publisher Mark Moloney

011 781 5970

Managing Director Yolanda Knott

083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

mark@probeauty.co.za

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

phil@probeauty.co.za

Editor-in-chief Sally Harvey

011 781 5970

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Sales manager Belinda Wewege

073 033 8599 belinda@probeauty.co.za

Senior Sales executive Charlene Dickson 082 758 1703 charlene@probeauty.co.za

July 2013

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On the cutting-edge Latest hair innovations

PB JHB conventions Full programme details inside

Subscribe 9 issues for R429 (SA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

Nailing it Competition preparation

Medical Aesthetics Battling oxidative stress

Switched On

On the cover Sourced from: www.istockphoto.com

Understanding light-based technology

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

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NEWS

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Sorbet becomes leading salon chain in SA By the end of July, Sorbet will have 70 salons and nail bars throughout the country, making it the leading salon chain in South Africa.

There are at least 10 more stores planned before the end of the year and 90% of the salons are franchised.

The Sorbet brand has become a feature of the retail landscape and has changed the face of the beauty salon industry.

With retail at 65% of sales, Sorbet prefers to be known as a retail skincare centre which offers treatments, rather than a beauty salon that offers products.

With the support of the Dermalogica and Environ skincare brands and the Essie and Gelish nailcare products, Sorbet has built a brand that is known for quality service and value for money. It has also developed a highly successful loyalty programme that

now boasts over 100 000 members nationwide.

In August last year, Sorbet launched the Drybar concept in Dunkeld, Johannesburg.

Essentially an express hair salon, Sorbet Drybar offers convenient, affordable blowdrys – no cuts or colours – in a relaxed, funky environment complete with in-salon entertainment.

The service offerings at the Sorbet Drybar include blowouts and styling, nails (manicures, pedicures and gelish), make-up, hair treatments, Brazilian blowouts, hair extensions and

a retail selection consisting of L’Oréal, Redken, Veaudry, Sorbet bath and body range and Essie. Guests get to kick back and relax while enjoying these treatments, as well as the free insalon WiFi, DVDs, music and complimentary champagne.

“This is what sets Sorbet Drybar apart from regular hair salons,” says Rudi Rudolph, MD of Sorbet. “In addition, the salons have the capacity to host groups of women as part of bridal showers,

baby showers, teen parties and bachelorette parties – a unique feature.”

Following the overwhelming success of the pilot Sorbet Drybar in Johannesburg, Sorbet is now rolling out the Drybar franchise concept countrywide.

Continued spa travel growth in 2012 As many as 68% of travel agents reported an increase in spa booking in 2012, up from 37% in 2011, according to SpaFinder Wellness’s sixth annual State of Spa survey.

According to the survey, which canvassed more than 160 travel agents around the world and was conducted in the last quarter of 2012, only 9% of travel agents reported a decline in spa-focused travel bookings last year.

The study also found that the focus on wellnesscentric spa holidays discernible in the 2011 survey remains a key trend.

In total, 67% of travel agents stated that the customers were more interested in

spa holidays with a strong wellness module, than in 2011, with 30% reporting that wellness was just as strong a trend as the previous year.

Susie Ellis, president of SpaFinderWellness, commented: “With more than two-thirds of agents reporting that people are now more interested in travelling

to spas specifically for programmes like stress reduction, fitness and weight loss. The results are a clear indication that more travellers are deciding they simply can’t afford exhausting, unhealthy vacations.”

The baby boomer generation of 48-67-yearolds, always essential in driving the economy, is also the core market for spa travel, with 67% of agents noting that this is the age bracket most likely to book a spa holiday. However, a notable 31% of agents stated that those in the 26-45 age group are the most likely to sign up for a spa-centric holiday.

Professional Beauty July 2013

9

In brief ■ PMU Association drives high standards: The Permanent Cosmetics Association of South Africa (PCASA) was recently formed in line with industry demand. Its mission is to ensure that members conduct the most professional treatments, protect the public against poor conduct, and ensure each technician has access to outstanding training and professional development. For more information visit: www. pcasa.org.za ■ Sanctum partners with CANSA: Australian brand Sanctum is currently the first and only complete range of natural products to be recognised by the Cancer Association of South Africa (CANSA) as containing only 100% naturally derived and safe ingredients. An added bonus for customers is that a percentage of proceeds on every Sanctum purchase will go to CANSA.

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NEWS

Equipment supplier warns against purchasing cheap imitations Imitation fat-freezing equipment is being brought into South Africa and sold at a steal (R50 000) to unsuspecting professionals.

This equipment has not received the correct marks of approval and is therefore unsafe, and can cause blistering, permanent pigmentation and frostbite.

■ LTI congratulates its top therapist: LTI MD Derek Terry (left), along with the company’s area sales representative, Eldrie Burgers (right), recently visited Limpopo to present the 2012 Therapist of the Year Incentive winner, Larika Niemand – the Spa Manager at The Spa at Zebula – with her trophy, certificate and prize. Niemand sold 384 LTI units in 2012.

■ David Sharp named Ofra Cosmetics ambassador: Freelance make-up artist David Sharp, who has worked on the Miss South Africa Beauty Pageant for two years, runway shows, editorials, SABC 3’s Expresso and Top Billing TV and magazine, and also works with many highprofile clients and agencies, was recently appointed as the brand ambassador for Ofra Cosmetics.

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Professional Beauty July 2013

“It has been brought to our attention that there has been some cheap imitation equipment brought into South Africa that is doing enormous harm to certain brands.

These rip-off machines even go as far as using the same brand name, which is very misleading to the public. One such treatment is coolsculpting fat freezing by zeltiq. The imitation machine does not have FDA approval and is extremely dangerous.

It has already caused severe damage to a patient who thought she was experiencing the real

treatment,” says Ian Ziervogel, MD of stern laser.

The coolsculpting fat freezing by zeltiq, solely distributed by stern laser in South Africa, is manufactured in the USA, and has FDA approval for the first body-shaping noninvasive (non-surgical) device to remove fat permanently. This procedure has an excellent safety profile.

Gordie Nye, president and CEO of zeltiq, commented: “Unfortunately, companies are entering the market with devices that we believe

infringe this protected technology. As a result we intend to enforce our intellectual property rights vigorously throughout the world.”

Camelot Spa opens Anti-ageing & Wellness Clinic Camelot Spa has enhanced its current spa offering at its Villa d’ Este Saxonwold premises by introducing an Anti-Ageing & Wellness Clinic. Dr Sam Cleminson, the founder of the clinic, is a British trained doctor who practises aesthetics, anti-ageing and wellness medicine in both the UK and South Africa. His philosophy is to treat ageing and disease from the inside as well as the outside, using the latest in medical

science and technology.

From age prevention to anti-ageing treatment; beauty enhancement to low energy and poor health, he personalises the programme according to each client.

The clinic provides a full range of general medical services, including: blood tests, hormone testing, botox, tissue fillers, laser, chemical peels, dermaroller, liposculpting, cellulite treatment and general wellness consultations.

“we’re in this together.” “we’re in this together.”

— — Jesseca Jesseca professional professionalskin skintherapist therapist — Jesseca professional skin therapist

Being Being aa skin skin care care professional professional can canbe beaasolitary solitarycareer, career,but butnot notwith with Being a skin care professional Dermalogica Dermalogica. . can be a solitary career, but not with Dermalogica .

The The moment moment II partnered partnered with with them, them,I Iwas wasinstantly instantlyconnected connectedto toaa The moment I partnered with worldwide worldwidetribe tribeof ofprofessionals professionalswho whoare areexperts experts them, I was instantly connected to a at atempowering empoweringme meininthe thetreatment treatmentroom, room,and andon on

worldwide tribe of professionals who are experts the theretail retailfloor. floor. at empowering me in the treatment room, and on the retail floor.

II went went from from feeling feeling like like II was was alone alone totofeeling feelinglike likeI Ihad hadmy myown ownteam teamof of I went from feeling like I was motivators, motivators,dedicated dedicatedto tohelping helpingme mereach reachevery every alone to feeling like I had my own team of goal! goal!With WithDermalogica DermalogicaI Iget getititall, all,from fromamazing amazing mmeemmbbeerr ibee ooff ttrrib member of tribe

200044 SSIN INCCEE 20 004

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motivators, dedicated to helping me reach every products productsto todie-hard die-hardsupport. support.I Icouldn’t couldn’task askfor for goal! With Dermalogica I get it all, from amazing anything anythingmore. more. products to die-hard support. I couldn’t ask for anything more.

Contact Contactus ustotofind findout outmore moreabout about joining the Dermalogica joining the Dermalogicatribe tribe Contact us to find out more about joining the Dermalogica tribe

The Thenumber numberone onechoice choiceofofskin skintherapists therapistsworldwide. worldwide.

The number one choice of skin therapists worldwide.

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NEWS

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First MUD showroom launches in SA

On the 1st June, MUD (Make-Up Designory) opened its first official showroom In Pretoria.

Owned by accomplished make-up artist Jolanda Bedeker, this facility will act as a showroom, school and exclusive distribution centre for all professionals in Pretoria, Centurion and Midrand, offering MUD products, kits and tools and skilled training for make-up artists.

Brenda Botha, the owner of MUD South Africa, believes that MUD is the perfect partner for a professional make-up artist, image

consultant, student and beauty salon. Her vision is to have a MUD showroom, distribution and training facility in each major province across the country in the next two years. “The first MUD showroom could not have asked for a better owner.

Jolanda is an experienced make-up artist who will make a huge success of the business and uphold the high standards of MUD International.”

Customer loyalty key to growth of small businesses A smile is the most common reason a client will be loyal to a small, independent business, but only 54% of small and medium enterprises (SMEs) do this, according to the latest research from Barclays.

The study, which was carried out in conjunction with the Small Business Research Centre at Kingston University, looked at the impact that customer loyalty can have on business for small organisations. It found that 59% of consumers say a smile with a friendly greeting is the most common reason why they feel loyal towards a small business.

Similarly, 36% said that brilliant customer service would secure their loyalty, and 22% said that having their usual order remembered would keep them coming back. What’s more, almost two thirds of consumers (60%) admitted they would pay more for service from a small business rather than a comparable product from a corporate enterprise.

This is excellent news for independent beauty salon owners, however Barclays’ research also showed that small businesses are not capitalising on loyal consumers.

Only 54% of the businesses surveyed said that made a practice of warmly greeting their clients. The study also showed that just half of small businesses encourage word of mouth recommendations, one of the most basic tactics to secure business growth. Some 19% of SMEs listed retaining current clients as their business’s main priority for achieving growth in the coming year, with only 12% identifying growing their current clients’ spend.

Robert Blackburn, a professor at the Small Business Research Centre in Kingston University, said: “It’s vital for SMEs to know exactly what fosters loyalty among their own customers, as the Barclays research suggests that customer loyalty directly impacts business profitability.

“SMEs are in a unique position to embrace these traditional values of loyalty and should consciously build on their natural competitive advantage of being a smaller business, as this can make a real difference to business survival and growth.”

The study examined the retail behaviour of 2006 consumers and the loyalty business practices of 1216 decision-makers in small and medium businesses.

Franchising option on mobile spray tanning services

Recently established mobile spray tanning company, Ispray Tanning, which offers sunless tanning services to customers in the comfort of their own homes, introduces a franchising option to entrepreneurs looking to make a mark in the beauty market.

Owners Pieter and Elzette Craucamp see this franchising concept as the ideal model to increase the footprint of their brand, while offering entrepreneurs the opportunity of securing success: “To us, the benefits

of owning a franchise are obvious, as the model offers the ideal amount of business freedom with added support to ensure profitability.

Instead of being thrust into the business world without a life preserver, entrepreneurs will receive the backing of brand that has conducted the needed developmental ground work and has an understanding of the market. This safety net can help to reduce the risks associated with starting a business,” says Pieter

Professional Beauty July 2013

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EVENT

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Tribe get together This year, Dermalogica stockists from 85 countries converged on Cape Town for the company’s annual meeting.Sally Harvey reports.

A

s part of this momentous occasion, South Africa’s platinum Dermalogica stockists, members of the press and dedicated patrons were invited to the Westin Grand on the 15th April for a welcoming address by the managing partners of the tribe.

Being back in South Africa was an evocative experience for this husband and wife power couple, Raymond and Jane Wurwand, especially for Raymond, who grew up in Worcester. In fact, it was in Cape Town that the couple first met before heading for the States where they started the International Dermal Institute during 1983.

Jane as a therapist herself, and Raymond with his marketing background, wanted to offer the right training for skin therapists and focus on skin health rather than beauty. Three years later, they launched Dermalogica – a professional skincare line that was completely different to anything available on the market at the time.

‘I wanted to formulate a product without mineral oil, artificial colour and fragrance, SD oil and lanolin; with

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Professional Beauty July 2013

a clean, clinical appeal,” says Jane. “People said it couldn’t be done, but I listened to my intuition and here we are today in more than 28 000 salons and spas in 85 countries.”

What has led to this phenomenal growth? “We have always stayed true to our culture and vision and will continue to do so – this is one of the key factors to our success coupled with an unwavering belief in what we do. Businesses fail because of a lack of focus and the execution thereof. You have to decide what you stand for, who you are and what you do.

“Also believe that along with the greatest challenge come the greatest opportunities, and building a business can be likened to building bricks – one relationship at a time, one country at a time, all the time gaining their trust and long-term support.

“In terms of staff, it is vitally important that they carry your culture and vision as you grow. As you employ more staff, you naturally lose touch, and that is

where you need great managers that are able to effectively impart your vision and beliefs. In my experience, businesses can become stuck if everyone does not have the same vision. Also, make sure you hire great people. My rule is to not hire according to the CV but rather the person, as they need to connect with you, your team and your dream.”

As one of the oldest Dermalogica distributor countries, and rated as one of the top five in the world, South Africa has always held a special place in the company’s heart. It was therefore a celebratory occasion to all meet for the first time in this country since the brand was established all those years ago.

“South Africa is right on top in terms of its accomplishments. It is really doing an amazing job, and is therefore seen as one of our best accounts. In fact, we circulate what South Africa is doing to other distributor countries in order to uplift the industry globally,” concludes Jane. PB

Î

INTERVIEW

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Preserve and

regenerate

The mastermind behind QMS Medicosmetics, Dr Eriche Schulte, recently visited South Africa to share more insights on the brand and the science behind its formulations. Sally Harvey secured a one-on-one interview with this fascinating man.

D

r Schulte personally formulates each product at his Derma-ResearchLaboratories in Germany.

He reminds me of a nutty professor – a true genius who is dedicated to his science. Business is not his forté and he leaves that in the very capable hands of his family. He is also down-to-earth and to the point, a quality that is rare, and refreshing to see.

Dr Schulte has a very clear vision of his brand’s potential and positioning in the market. The whole basis of the range is on scientific logic not on miracles. It has been developed to effect positive change in the condition of the skin. It is not there to replace surgical procedures and non-invasive medical aesthetic treatments, but rather to support them, preparing the skin for less risk and best results and improving the healing process thereafter.

According to Dr Schulte, the epidermis is the most important layer of the skin. He believes in the smart delivery of the right actives without destroying the barrier function of the skin – lifelong, gentle stimulation rather than aggressive methods. “One should always keep this layer intact to avoid trans-epidermal water loss caused by a number of external influences,” he says.

The facial and body therapies within the professional and retail ranges are, therefore, formulated according to this core principle.

The micropeel, with a combination of fruit acids (10% pH3.5), gently dissolves the intercellular glue between the dead corneocytes to

16

Professional Beauty July 2013

improve penetration and recondition the skin, without compromising barrier function and causing a reaction with UV rays.

He has also used technology to devise a way that would enable valuable collagens to be reintroduced into the skin – an iconic innovation in the beauty sector. His high-grade collagen serums feature 70% natural soluble collagens with effective anti-ageing benefit.

Some of the other impressive technologies being incorporated in the range include: Plant stem cells, harvested from the alpine rose and herbal sea fennel, which promotes the improved functionality of skin cells, and “iontophoresis” in skincare, formulating a serum and cream, which work in conjunction to generate a gentle micro-current of electricity over the skin. This stimulates collagen and elastin fibres and improves penetration of actives into the skin.

Intraviral was the latest product to be introduced. It combines vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and collagen in one capsule, promoting a healthy body and skin from the inside out.

“When it comes to supplementation all sounds good and well, but how much is actually absorbed?” he asks. “We have, therefore, tested this product radioactively in order to confirm the proper absorption of product in the blood.”

Dr Schulte shared what’s still to come – a lightening treatment with a totally new approach is set to be launched in SA during September – so watch this space.

When I asked him what the future of cosmetic skincare will be, he stayed true to what he believes in – “I see smart delivery system and techniques emerging alongside new ingredients, all geared to get wanted ingredients deep into the epidermis for the best results,” he concluded. PB

The success of this amazing body wrap is due to a combination of a Swiss formulation anti-cellulite body contouring firming gel and Neoprene bandages. The compression of the bandages and the active ingredients, strengthening, diuretic and stabilising properties of the gel targets the toxins in the adipose fatty tissue, breaks down the fatty tissue by means of absorption by the lymph duct, so that the unwanted fatty tissue finally passes out through the body. The combination of liposomes, strengthening and diuretic properties stabilise and maintain the contour of the body, helping to avoid a spongy appearance, strengthens the tissues and inner organs.

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USE WITH PATRICIA CLARKE GEL TO SPEED UP CENTIMETRE LOSS.

• Brings Relief to tired legs – ideal for flights.

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This bra offers everyday chic styling and an exceptional fit that hugs the breasts and accentuates the cleavage without adding any extra volume. Innovative 3 Dimensional breathable knit fabric creates a moulded bra that feels like a second skin and embodies a woman’s natural curves for absolute comfort. No seams or stitching in the nipple area. Available in chocolate, white, black and nude (fits up to a F cup).

For more information contact: Patricia Clarke Johannesburg, South Africa • Symphony Health cc • Tel: +27 11 793 2321 • Tel: +27 11 792 2641 • Fax: +27 11 792 7461 • patricianewsum@yahoo.com • www.patricia-clarke.com • PO Box 1158, Fontainebleau, 2032

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For the next 3 months not only will you benefit from the incredible discounts on DMK but there’s an opportunity for the salon owner, and best therapists to win a 1 week stay at the Luxurious Mondazur Hotel and Spa San Lameer all expenses paid including flights, accommodation and Spa treatments for 2 persons per prize. For more information contact DMK South Africa head office: 011 262 6120 email: info@dannemk.co.za or visit us on facebook. Terms and conditions apply.

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PROMOTION

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Enzyme Therapy DMK enzyme treatments work with the skin where cosmetic facial treatments only act on the surface of the skin.

E

nzymes work on skin functioning, increase blood flow and bring a fresh supply of nutrients and oxygen that is essential for tissue health and repair.

The lymphatic system is enhanced acting like an internal sprinkler flushing fresh fluid into the cells and cellular spaces while cleaning out debris and gases. Enzyme 1 strengthens the structural integrity and rebalances the skin encouraging proper skin functioning and a healthy environment for cells to live and thrive in.

If we think of the skin like a factory and it is not functioning properly the product it produces will be weak and of poor quality, the product in this case is the skin that is visible to the eye - the skin is a mirror of what is happening internally.

The enzyme treatments stimulate fresh blood flow to the new tissue bringing vital nutrients and supreme oxygenation thus improving skin functioning and appearance.

Peeling alone does not produce a stronger, healthier, more youthful skin.

Removing all the old damaged skin, strengthening and repairing the new skin coming through, protecting it and

maintaining good skin functioning is the key to long-term, healthier, youngerlooking skin.

DMK Enzyme treatments work with the skin, they do not merely act on it. This enzymatic combination consumes dead cell material cleans out debris and gases in the cells, exercises facial muscles and firms the skin. It opens up the vascular system, bringing new oxygen to the skin cells and encouraging the formation of new elastin and collagen. These treatments also tighten, tone and firm the skin.

After the enzymatic masque is removed, a Transdermal Nutrition Infusion is performed using DMK’s unique transdermal delivered products – Vitamin C serum, Betagel, Biogen C crème (the wrinkle relaxer) and fine line crème around the eye.

This enables the effective delivery of a rich blend of herbal lipids, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, anti-oxidants and nutrients at cellular level, enabling cells to stay alive longer and perform at their healthiest, youngest level.

DMK then locks all these wonderful ingredients in with hydrophilic crème,

which also supremely hydrates the skin by holding maximum amounts of water in the epidermis.

Transdermal delivery ensures that the active ingredients reach the target area where they can have a therapeutic effect and maintain optimal skin functioning. You can have all the most wonderful active ingredients but without an effective delivery system they will just remain on the skin surface, not really supplying new baby cells with any real benefit.

Everyone can benefit from the treatment, providing the skin with amazing results: • Firmer and tighter • Cleaner and fresher • Plump and more supple • Clearer and brighter • Fine lines and wrinkles will be reduced. PB

Contact: DMK on 011 262 6120, Email: jopie@dannemk.co.za or visit: www.dannemking.com

Professional Beauty July 2013

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BUSINESS

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Selling point New proposals to add retail consultancy to the beauty college syllabus should be met with open arms, writes Hellen Ward.

As a new member of the National Advisory I know are happy to advise on the features and benefits of Committee for hairdressing, I attended my treatments and services, but when it comes to prescribing, first meeting recently. On the agenda was advising and recommending products, they often feel they the feedback from Habia (Hair & Beauty are hard-selling to the clients. Why? There sometimes Industry Association) on its recent survey to find out what seems to be a mental block on this vital element of fulfilling their members feel about NVQ qualifications – the syllabus, their professional role. I just can’t understand it. the framework and the standards.

We are working in the age of the ever-changing client.

As an employer, I explained to the committee the She is more savvy, brand-aware and concerned about her frustrations we face in getting newly qualified recruits jobappearance (and her ageing) than ever before, so why the ready, and how much additional education and training reticence to ensure the professional arena cleans up when support most salon owners feel they need it comes to the growing marketplace that I for one would to offer new employees in the workplace. is skin and hair care? With the ageing As all of us probably know, succeeding population and their increased disposable welcome some on the college floor and running a busy income, we are missing a trick if we don’t. column in a spa or salon are two very retail consultancy different experiences, and marrying them Back to basics qualifications for up is as much of a challenge for the salon Product knowledge is obviously a key manager as it is for the fledgling therapist element, but I need more of a “how to sell” therapists. or nail tech. approach to training, and this isn’t solely It’s long been my belief that to make the responsibility of the brands to their stockists. Sales standards higher, we should toughen up the existing techniques and ways of consulting and recommending qualifications – but I do understand that trying to create a home care need to be educated in their own right if we are “one size fits all” qualification isn’t easy either. The demands ever to compete with the slick, well-trained consultants who on large salon and spa employees will be different to pound the polished tiles of the glamorous department those working in smaller salons, and standardising store beauty halls. But compete we must, because the industry is always going to be complex. we have the professional edge – both in terms However, employers shouldn’t be taking on of the product we sell and the expertise that fully qualified staff then finding they need to accompanies it. re-train them, often at their own expense, for In all of the 20 years I’ve run my own at least six months to make them ready to business, I’ve tried to hammer home the deal with clients and capable of delivering message to my team: Retailing products to a good standard of treatment. clients isn’t just an exercise in upping the salon coffers, it’s more important than that Soft sell short-term goal. Delivering expert advice It was also interesting to hear that City means the client is more likely to & Guilds was asking our opinion on return. It’s about getting the client some new, proposed qualifications to experience the full service when for retailing in our sector. I can’t it comes to professional advice be alone in struggling to get my and recommendation (that’s Metrospa team to see that retail why I tell the team, DON’T sell – is part of their job, and I for one ADVISE). If the client decides not would welcome some retail to buy a product, no matter – consultancy qualifications for because your job is done in therapists. Selling products and giving them the correct home advising on home care is a crucial care analysis. That is what part of their job and failure completes the service. If sales to learn how to do it well and come too, then that’s just a professionally will seriously affect bonus. their future earning potential, so So treating retail expertise any training and education that as a qualification in its own can help them perfect the skill right? I’m all for it. And any would be most welcome. therapist with But why do we find it so any sense should awkward to give good retail be, too. PB advice in our industry? Therapists

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.

Professional Beauty July 2013

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Î

Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys

online at www.probeauty.co.za

The value of Vitamin D3 Dr Gys Du Plessis answers your health, wellness and anti-ageing questions.

After reading your article on supplements, I was motivated to be more disciplined when taking my recommended supplements. My Vitamin D3 levels were tested a while ago and proved to be very low. How important is this in terms of our general health?

V

itamin D3 ranks almost always at number three on my list of recommended supplements, after a good broad multivitamin/mineral and Omega 3 free fatty acids. This is because of the immensely important role it has in the body and for one’s overall health.

Vitamin D is a fat-soluble vitamin that acts as a steroid hormone. The body makes Vitamin D from cholesterol through a process triggered by the action of the sun’s ultraviolet B rays on the skin. Vitamin D refers to two inactive precursor forms in our bodies, known as D3, which is cholecalciferol, and D2, also known as ergocalciferol.

Both have to undergo transformation in the liver and kidneys before they can be used in the body. While our bodies do manufacture Vitamin D3 on exposure to sunshine, in most northern hemisphere countries the levels are very low, particularly during the winter months, when we hardly produce any.

An estimated one billion people worldwide, across all ethnicities and age groups, have a Vitamin D deficiency. One of the big mysteries exists in South Africa and Australia, where there is a lot of sun, yet the population in general have very low levels, and need fortified food and dietary supplements to ensure good levels are maintained.

An abnormality in the Vitamin D3 receptor gene may also aggravate matters, because people with this polymorphism have a lower affinity in their own bodies to Vitamin D3.

A huge amount of research exists on the benefits of Vitamin D3 in our bodies. It is crucial

in the expression of as much as 223 genes and in preventing many chronic diseases thus maintaining good health.

Lack of Vitamin D in adults is reported to precipitate or exacerbate osteopenia, osteoporosis, muscle weakness, fractures, common cancers, autoimmune diseases, infectious diseases and cardiovascular diseases. There is also evidence that it may reduce the level of certain cancers and Type I and Type II diabetes.

Recent research also proves its crucial role in children with asthma where those that present with low levels of Vitamin D3 responded much more slowly to asthma medication. It may also help to battle cancers by blocking cell growth

and slowing the progression of premalignant to malignant states. Its effect as a prohormone on all the other hormones also makes it very important in the normal functioning of the brain and preventing many mood disorders, such as depression.

In a big study on 11 000 people in Kansas it was proven that the risk for all causes of mortality was 164% higher in Vitamin D3-deficient people and that supplementation was associated with a 64% increase in survival of the population group studied.

This trial published in 2012 proved that Vitamin D3 levels below 30ng/ ml lead to more diseases and cancers.

The popular level in anti-ageing journals actually recommends 60 – 80ng/ml to sustain health. This amount is far higher than the general population’s average 24ng/ml.

Many studies have confirmed that the average dosage in most supplements of 400 – 800 International units per day is too low and that the intake should at least be 1000 One of the units per day. big mysteries In view of this short answer and the big exists in South Africa body of evidence proving the benefits of and Australia, where Vitamin D3, it is really there is a lot of sun, one of my own favorite supplements. PB yet the population

in general have very low levels of Vitamin d.

If you would like to ask Dr Gys du Plessis a question please email the editor at sally@probeauty.co.za.

Sekected questions and answers will be published in the following issue of the magazine.

Dr Gys du Plessis has a keen interest in holistic, integrative and aesthetic medicine. He has founded and led two holistic centres in South Africa and is the medical director for Nimue Bioscience International. To touch base with Dr Gys visit: www.facebook.com/drgys1

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Professional Beauty July 2013

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8:00

Registration

9:00

Registration

9:00

Welcome

9:30

Face Lift your Spa

9:15

Keynote Communication - in the new economy the currency is connection

Host: Francisco Garcia - spa director, Arabella Hotel & Spa Sharon Barcock – director: Spa Operations & Development, Middle East & Africa at Hilton Worldwide Marisa Dimitriadis - managing director, The Spa Consultants Is your salon/spa in need of a makeover? Need to get with the times and create a space that not only attracts but keeps consumers there and makes a memory. This session looks at a few of the latest floor finishes, wall finishes, soft finishes and décor for spa and salon.

Rinus Le Roux - U Can Institute Why does the world have a new ‘currency’? What is changing and why is it changing? How do you learn to connect? The future belongs to those who are willing to risk being real and connected.

10:15 The Top 5 - learn from SA’s best Host: Marisa Dimitriadis - managing director, The Spa Consultants Sharon Barcock – director: Spa Operations & Development, Middle East & Africa at Hilton Worldwide Felicia Boshomane - The Saxon Spa & Studio Yolandi Brits - Professional Skincare Lab Brenda Motlhabi - Touch Spa @ Seasons South Africa’s star retail therapists share their expertise and sales secrets.

10:30 Top 10 Aromatherapy Oils Charlene Weidner - industry consultant Top 10 oils you should have in your spa, how to mix them and how they can be used from welcome rituals to hot compresses.

10:45 TEA/COFFEE

11:00 TEA AND SNACKS

11:15 Is your Website making you Money?

11:30 Performance Manage Your Staff

Ashton Hayes - director of Add-on Connect the dots to greater business success. Move from a fragmented website and social media approach to an integrated solution. Are your websites, social media pages and campaigns working as hard as they could be? Ashton will be speaking about the importance of a focused digital strategy and various techniques to help you unlock your brands full online potential.

12:00 Healthy Life, Healthy Spa Speaker to be confirmed

12:30 – 14:30 LUNCH AND EXHIBITION 14:30 International Keynote Address: taking a closer look at Persuasion Psychology when dealing with clients Neil Orvay - co-founder of Sense of Touch – an Asian spa and wellness company, Hong Kong.

Based on the research of Dr. Robert Cialdini, one of the world’s foremost authorities on Persuasion and Influence Psychology, Neil delivers logical and sound reasoning to persuasive success factors which we ‘ordinary people’ often overlook as mundane everyday social interactions.

Ulundi Behrtel - private legal consultant in SA healthcare industry Covering the dos and absolute don’ts of managing your staff’s performance.

12:00 Secrets that Everyone Knows Francisco Garcia - spa director, Arabella Hotel & Spa Alison Wrightford - CEO, Sanctuary Group Keryn Hayes - owner, Skin Sense Neil Orvay - co-founder, Sense of Touch, Hong Kong Sharon Barcock – director: Spa Operations & Development, Middle East & Africa at Hilton Worldwide Experiences to learn from – those situations we don’t always talk about and how others have taken control.

13:00 LUNCH AND EXHIBITION

15:15 Rewards, Memberships and Loyalty Programmes Host: Francisco Garcia, spa director, Arabella Hotel & Spa Ian Fuhr - founder and CEO of the Sorbet Group Neil Orvay - co-founder of Sense of Touch, Hong Kong Sharon Barcock – director: Spa Operations & Development, Middle East & Africa at Hilton Worldwide An interesting look at how these experts have successfully and sustainably introduced rewards and loyalty programmes in their businesses.

16:15 TEA AND CLOSE

*Topics and speakers are subject to change Seating is limited.

Book early to avoid disappointment.

For more information and speaker profiles, visit

www.probeauty.co.za

Î

SPA NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Survival of the fittest Professional Beauty has secured top international and local presenters for the year’s International Spa Convention. The valuable insight that these key players in the spa industry can provide cannot be underestimated.

Neil Orvay

Neil Orvay –

Sharon Barcock

Ashton Hayes

launching new global spa In 2002, she joined the concepts for Hilton’s worldwide Fairmont Dubai as Spa Director brands. She is also part of the of The Willow Stream Spa & driving committee for the Middle Health Club, and, after one Sharon Barcock – East Spa Association. year, was headhunted to design Neil started his career as an director: Spa Operations & and develop a spa brand for a investment banker in 1990 and Development, Middle East & Ashton Hayes – private company which resulted spent 13 years at the forefront Africa at Hilton Worldwide director Add-on in the opening of a 2000m2 of capital markets with NatWest Sharon has a gained a wealth Are your websites, social media ladies-only Spa & Health Club Markets, PaineWebber and of experience both in Europe pages and campaigns working as operation called ‘Jannati’ in HVB Group in London, Sydney, and the Middle East operating a hard as they could be? conjunction with the Dubai Singapore and Hong Kong. variety of spas, combining her Ashton will be speaking about Women’s Association, under In October 2002, he co-founded knowledge of finance, fitness the importance of focused digital the patronage of HE Sheikha Sense of Touch, a boutique day and spa as well as her passion strategy and various techniques Amina. spa on Hollywood Road in Hong for delivering the best. to help you unlock your brand’s After the successful completion Kong. After 10 years of operation When it comes to spa, she full online potential. of this project, Sharon joined and multiple international and started her career as spa Having worked both on digital Asian Spa operator Mandara regional awards, Sense of Touch manager at Stapleford Park in strategy and client service Spa at its flagship location now has seven branches in Hong Melton Mowbray’s exclusive management at Stonewall and for the Middle East – The Kong and Shanghai, employs Clarins Spa. She expanded the as the conceptual creative at Monarch Dubai. Sharon was approximately 100 staff and spa and hosted many high-end digital advertising agency Native, responsible for the pre-opening has a customer base of over events with the likes of Aston Ashton noticed a growing need and following operation of 20 000 expatriate and local Martin and Hennessy and fitness for digital advertising services the spa and was successful professionals. gurus such as Rosemary Conley. in the small- to medium-sized in implementing marketing In January 2010 Neil launched The next move was to Five Lakes business space and started strategies to drive the revenue Capelli, a boutique designer hair Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort as spa his own digital agency called which resulted in a profitsalon in Repulse Bay, and in 2011 director,no developing marketing ) Add-On. The business model making facility. re tu he added Fast Beauty, a new fu have and focusing on t it youstrategies (withou is to provide digital services to Following two successful concept in time-efficient, resultsngs to and enjoyable years with penetration as lo well clients that leverage existing future be e driven beauty treatments. sentationhotel guestTh new pre are willing Mandara Spa, Sharon made as designing aos day online platforms. This ‘don’t homenu wspa e Neil is a regular onMy the Hong th deals with: and upgrading allkmarketing reinvent the wheel’ mindset being real and the transition to a corporate Kong and international ris a to ve ha rld wo Why does the collaterals. Shenn then took on the • having ensures that he creates premium role and, in December 2009, d. te presentation circuit, ec co rrency”? role as operations director at new “cu digital presences for clients joined Hilton Worldwide, where presented multiple times for the is y wh d an re: Citypoint in London, What is changing Champneys’To (web sites, social media and she is currently responsible find out mo British Chamber of•Commerce, 6 2648 overseeing all of77 the it changing? online campaigns) with quick me: 083 for developing existing spa Callaspects as well as the American Economy rinus@ucan.co.za front of:house turnaround times and great ail me operations throughout the • The Connection spa business,E-m Chamber of Commerce, to and F&B outlets. return on investment.

Middle East and Africa, and w do you learnoperations the Canadian Chamber • Hoof Commerce, The Internet connect?

Professionals Association, • No more hiding and the Entrepreneursbe Club hind a desk of in Hong Kong, and the me Global In the new economy the currency is connection diocrity – your Spa Summit, Professional The future belongs to those who are willing to risk being real and connected time has come.

Spa Congress, and Spa China without it you have no future.

Congress internationally. He has had articles published or profiles Rinus Le Roux – U Can Institute written in many publications, Rinus Le Roux from U Can Institute answers important questions that businesses including the Wall Street Journal, face in the fast-changing economy – Why does the world have a new ‘currency’? the South China Morning What is changing and why is it changing? How do you learn to connect?

Post, Hong Kong Business,

co-founder of Sense of Touch – an Asian spa and wellness company in Hong Kong.

British Chamber of Commerce Magazine, Hong Kong Golf, and Spa China.

y the m o n o c E w e N e th In ECTION Currency is CONN

Keynote address:

CONNECTION

Professional Beauty July 2013

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Î

SPA FOCUS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Pure indulgence The former Ulwazi Spa at the Velmore Hotel Estate in Centurion has been revamped and launched as the Bakwena Day Spa. Barbara Hocking gets to experience all the spa has to offer.

N

estled on the banks of the Hennops River, amidst the tranquil surrounds of the Velmore Hotel Estate in Centurion, the Bakwena Spa is close enough to the city to ensure convenience, but sufficiently removed from the hustle and bustle of everyday life to provide a much-needed escape.

The spa’s rejuvenating treatments reflect its “Pure Indulgence” operating philosophy, providing guests with the ultimate luxury spa experience, whether popping in for a quick morning session or spending a full day being pampered by the extremely friendly and accommodating staff.

The new site increases the spa’s capacity, so that it can accommodate 42 guests at a time, which allows the facility to cater for bulk bookings, special occasions and corporate events. The new-look Bakwena Spa is owned and operated by the Orion Group.

“The Orion Group brings with it years of experience in the hospitality industry, coupled with a specialist focus on luxury spas. The group was founded on the

“The Bakwena Day Spa was developed by offering an innovative and creative approach to spa and spa therapy in South Africa. Wellness is a state of mind as well as a physical attribute.” principle of ‘people first’, which means that hospitality services come naturally to us. We are so confident of the success of the Bakwena Spa that we plan to roll out the concept across our various hotels, starting with a ‘Bakwena Express’ at Ditholo Lodge,” says group director Antoinette Gmeiner.

The Bakwena Spa currently provides most of the treatments you would expect from a luxury spa, as well as some rather specific treatments, such as the intimate Couples Razul Ritual and the more exotic ‘Mr Nibble’ fish pedicure.

Its treatments combine new techniques with ancient rituals that release natural healing properties utilising their own local organic ingredients.

Bakwena uses the indulgent MatsiMela product range, carefully selected based on the philosophy of sustainability, love and respect for Mother Nature and with some of the finest organic

extracts indigenous to Africa. Some of these ingredients include marula, rooibos, baobab, sandalwood, ginger, lime, litchi and rose, all of which are sourced via rural communities which support social upliftment projects throughout Southern Africa.

Even though you are just a few kilometres down the road from the busy city hub, as soon as you enter the property, the city and all its demands seem miles away.

The décor is very modern, with a lot of French Provençal influences which further add to the illusion of escaping everyday life, thereby providing clients with an exotic African spa experience. PB

Contact: 012 370 7031

Professional Beauty July 2013

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Î

LASER & IPL

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Switched on The major problem when purchasing laser or IPL equipment is that the purchaser is usually convinced by the sales song and dance rather than the hard facts and technological know-how.

Sally Harvey looks at the science.

I

t is important that one has a better general understanding before purchasing decisions are made, and, even more importantly, before the equipment is operated. This article will try to explain the technical jargon that often leaves us feeling ignorant and confused.

What is Intense Pulse Light (IPL) technology?

“IPL systems are high-intensity pulsed light sources which emit polychromatic incoherent light in a broad spectrum typically ranging from 410 to 1 400nm,” says Melissa Eksteen of Radiant Healthcare.

With certain systems different cutoff filters are inserted in one hand piece while others provide multiple hand pieces for each wavelength.

“The filters change the wavelength range, allowing it to be optimised for different applications and skin types,” says Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers.

“With these filters the therapist can target the desired chromosphores more effectively, leaving the healthy skin cells untouched and intact. For example vascular lesions would be treated with a 695nm filter, while pigmentation would require a 590nm filter.”

Professional Beauty July 2013

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Virtually Painless Greater Versatility Enhanced Outcomes

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The Comfortable Way to Tone and Tighten your Skin

Skin Rejuvenation Various Skin Conditions

Cell: +27 (0) 72 574 3159

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Laser Skin Resurfacing & Rejuvenation

Email: info@bestlasers.co.za Leg Veins Wrinkles & Acne Scars Tattoo Removal & Fractional Non-ablative Skin Resurfacing Fractional Ablative Skin Resurfacing Hair Removal & Pigmented Lesions

• Laser/RF Sales • Training • Education • Repairs • Maintenance • Installations

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LASER & IPL

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Fitzpatrick skin typing Skin Type

Genetic Disposition

Reaction to Sun. Tanning habits

I

White: very fair, red of blond hair; blue eyes; freckles

Always burns, never tans

II

White: fair; red or blond hair; blue, hazel or green eyes

Always or usually burns; tans with difficulty, tan fades rapidly

III

Cream white: fair with any eye or hair colour; very common

Sometimes mild burn, always or usually tans, tans stays for weeks.

IV

Brown: typical Mediterranean Caucasian skin; moderately pigmented and may include Asian, Middle Eastern, Indian, Hispanic

Very rarely burns; tans with ease, tans stays for months.

V

Darker Brown; Middle Eastern skin types; darker skin type and may include Asian, Middle Eastern, Indian, Hispanic, Mediterranean (Non Caucasian)

Very rarely burns, tans easily

VI

Darkest Brown, Black; (Non Caucasian)

Never burns, tans very easily

What is laser technology?

“Lasers are single wavelength devices with absorption coefficients relatively specific to the chromsphores (melanin, haemoglobin and collagen) they are intended to target,” says Mazanne van Staden, manager at Laserderm Dunkeld on behalf of Sternlaser.

Lasers are classified according to the different wavelengths at which they operate: • The Ruby (694nm) – this was the earliest laser used for hair removal. It is rarely used anymore due to the high cost of operation and maintenance and due to the adverse effects it has on the skin as a result of its high absorption by epidermal melanin. This laser is definitely not suitable for skin types higher than type 2, as it is known to cause blistering, crusting, possible bruising and atrophic scarring in darker skin types. Its main use these days is for tattoo removal, as it can clear dark blue, black and green pigment fairly well.

Laser and IPL treatment leaves the skin vulnerable, and exposure to UV rays can be the cause of pigmentation, scars or change of skin colour.

• The Alexandrite (755nm) – this laser has very good absorption by melanin, which makes it particularly effective for hair removal treatments. Dark hair in fair skins is ideal. Shorter and longer pulse durations make it suitable for various skin types between 1 and 3, and even some skin type 4. It is not suitable for darker skin types and cannot treat blonde, red or grey hair.

• The Diode (810nm) – with this laser we have a slightly decreased absorption of epidermal melanin, which makes it far safer to use on darker and tanned skin.

The Nd:Yag (1064nm) – this longer wave length laser can penetrate deeper into the skin and is less absorbed by melanin, therefore making it the safest option for dark skin types, even the darkest of ethnic skins. It is also

M22 IPL with OPT

M22 IPL with OPT

High-powered IPL without OPT

High-powered IPL without OPT

Limited capabilities of lower-powered systems

Limited capabilities of lower-powered systems

35

The OPT advantages: High peak power, shorter pulses – optimal for IPL skin

using photorejuvenaetaion and the treatThetreatments OPT advantages:

Fluence

Fluence

35

100 n

e Puls

atio Dur

0 0

e Puls

n (m

atio

Dur

s)

) (ms

100

This chart the difference ment of shows benign pigmented lesions. between an IPL The OPT advantages: power, shorterpower pulsesthroughout – optimal for IPL skin withHigh thepeak same (constant) Homogeneous power over long pulse durations – safethe treatments using photorejuvenaetaion the treat• High peak power, shorter pulses –decline optimal for IPL delivery of the pulse and the peak andand for hair removal on darker skin types. ment of benign pigmented lesions. in power with lower-powered IPL systems. Thisand the skin treatments using photorejuvenation is one of the determining factors of IPL quality– safe Homogeneous over long pulse durations treatment ofpower benign pigmented lesions. andfor safe effective treatment outcomes. hairand removal on darker skin types.

• Homogeneous power over long pulse durations – safe for hair removal on darker skin types.

effective in the treatment of leg veins, deep vascular lesions and non-ablative facial wrinkles.

• CO2 (10600nm) – this gas laser emits energy in the far-infrared spectrum. It’s an ablative laser used predominantly in treating wrinkles and scars.

How does the light affect various concerns?

Van Staden provides the following explanation: • Hair follicles - photo-thermal destruction of hair follicles occurs using red and near infra-red wavelengths (600nm-1100) by targeting the follicular melanin in its highest concentration in the hair bulb, allowing for sufficient depth of penetration of light without significant absorption by water. In other words, the laser light targets the colour in the hair follicle to destroy the hair without damaging the surrounding skin tissue.

• Veins - the photo-thermal effect causes the haemoglobin to absorb the light and convert it into heat, as the blood heats up it transfers its heat to the vessel walls. When the walls heat up to around 70 degrees celsius they become damaged, and when damaged enough eventually break down and are absorbed by the immune system.

• Rejuvenation – when the laser heats up the water chromophore >

Professional Beauty July 2013

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LASER & IPL

online at www.probeauty.co.za

just enough not to burn the skin, so that it causes a thermal injury. This ensures an inflammatory response to fix or rejuvenate the “damaged” tissue, which, in turn, stimulates the collagen production and cell renewal in the area. In other words, it makes the brain believe that the tissue is being burnt in order to effect cellular renewal.

• Resurfacing – non-ablative, which means creating a lesion in a selective way, causing micro-thermal zones in the skin to remove fractions of it, thus stimulating the natural healing process while the stratum corneum (most outer skin layer) stays fully intact.

Ablative fractional resurfacing still only fractionally injures the skin, but being more ablative means that the surface is no longer intact and will take up to 10 days to re re-epithelialise.

How could you possibly burn someone with a laser or IPL? “Advanced training is imperative,” says Van Staden. “Not understanding the principles and basic fundamentals of the technology can and will cause a burn.

“When it comes to lasers, one needs to know what selective photothermolysis is, and how to choose the

The Syneron Elos Plus combines a diode laser with radio frequency for faster, safer permanent hair reduction.

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Professional Beauty July 2013

proper wavelength, pulse duration, fluency, spot size and depth of penetration, so that one can selectively damage the intended target and not the competing chromophores.”

“Therapists operating this equipment should not only have an in-depth understanding of the equipment being used, but should also have a thorough knowledge of The Fitzpatrick Scale skin types as well as melanogenesis – the process of pigmentation production,” says Janine Thomson of Lamprobe SA. “A thorough understanding of the effects of UVA and UVB radiation, heat and trauma to the skin are imperative to aid with advising pre- and posttreatment procedures to prevent postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and the re-occurrence of pigmentation, when performing these procedures.”

A thorough consultation with medical history is necessary for each client. Therapists should check the area to be treated to make sure that the skin is healthy enough to support the treatment. If necessary, preparatory treatments can be performed, such as the use of sun block, products that contain tyrosinase inhibitors and antioxidants, to be used topically and orally, 4-5 weeks prior to treatment to ensure minimal complications.

“Therapists should also check the area prior to treatment for lesions that may be suspicious according to the ABCDE Rule (asymmetry, borders, colour, diameter and evolving lesions).

IPL or laser treatments should be

The Ellipse Multiflex I2PL Nd;Yag is laser and IPL combination with the ability to treat a number of concerns.

Î

LASER & IPL

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Therapists should check the area prior to treatment for lesions that may be suspicious according to the ABCDE Rule (asymmetry, borders, colour, diameter and evolving lesions). avoided on these lesions and the client should be referred to a dermatologist for further investigation. With the increasing rate of skin cancers in South Africa and our high UVA radiation, we, as skincare professionals, need to be on the lookout so that we can best advise our clientele.”

“Excessive sun exposure either before or after laser and IPL treatments is not advised and a well-trained therapist will not perform a laser procedure on a person who has had excessive sun exposure immediately before a treatment,” says Olivier. “This applies to exposure to the sun, tanning beds and use of tanning lotions.

Exposure to the concentrated form of UVA lights of tanning beds is more dangerous than normal sun exposure.

“Laser and IPL treatment leaves the skin vulnerable, and exposure to UV rays can be the cause of pigmentation, scars or change of skin colour.

“It is important to follow the postoperative/treatment directions of the doctor or therapist. The use of a sun block and avoiding of sun exposure for about two weeks will avoid any damage. Even after the skin has healed (in case of skin rejuvenation treatments) it will be sensitive to sunlight. One needs to advise the client to wear a wide-brimmed hat and apply sunblock of at least SPF 30+ regularly.”

The Candela GentleMax Pro is a dual-wavelength laser platform combining an Alexandrite with an Nd:Yag laser.

In terms of room set-up what would ensure the client’s safety?

“The treatment area should have limited access,” says Olivier. “A laser warning sign should be posted on the door and labels affixed to the laser in a conspicuous location.

“The treatment area should have no mirrors that can cause reflections. The beam path must be free of reflective surfaces and combustibles. The area >

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also requires storage or disabling of the laser while not in use. One must never leave a laser unattended when in operation.”

“With any electrical equipment, one should have standard fire extinguishers for any possible threats. All eyes in the treatment area also need to be protected with the necessary optical density goggles,” adds Van Staden.

Explain spot size and how it affects penetration of light and treatment time?

Spot size refers to the size of the irradiation beam or “spot”. “The spot size is important to ensure an accurate depth of impact with the light emitting device,” states Olivier. “For treatment of larger areas, such as backs and legs, a large spot size is desirable. Treatment of smaller areas, such as the upper lip, will be easier with a smaller spot size. A system that offers different spot sizes is therefore a better choice. Larger spot size enables greater depth of penetration for improved absorption of energy at the target. To avoid the effect of radial scattering (also called perimeter loss) the spot size must be bigger than the light’s penetration depth into the tissue. However, a large spot size on an underpowered machine can result in ineffective treatments. The system used must deliver the power to handle the larger spot size.”

Explain fluence – how does this work and what influences it?

“The amount of laser energy passing through a given area is expressed in joules per square centimetre. J/cm2 = Energy (J) / Area (cm2),” explains Olivier.

“Fluence is an important parameter for efficiency. An effective laser or IPL treatment is fluence (J/cm2) dependant. Skin type, lesion type, depth, size and density of lesion are used to suggest fluence. The higher the fluence – as long as it is tolerated by the patient – the better the results.

Lower fluence is suitable for: dark skin (safety) and dense lesion (good light absorption).

“Fluence must always be measured relative to the spot size. Large spots with less fluence can bring the same as small spots with higher fluence.”

Explain pulse duration and its effect on the end result?

“No matter how judiciously one has chosen the wavelength, non-specific thermal damage will occur if the pulse duration is too long,” says Van Staden. “Photothermolysis, with short

34

Professional Beauty July 2013

Î

LASER & IPL

pulse duration, will not reach a larger chromophore, therefore it would be unsuccessful in removing the target.

However, long pulse duration will miss the intended target if it is too small or superficial. This will cause bulk heating and damage to the surrounding tissue.”

Olivier discusses the pulse type of advanced IPL systems which has the following parameters: • Number of pulses: The energy of each IPL pulse can be delivered as a Single Pulse, Double Pulse (divided in 2 pulses) or Triple Pulse (1 divided in 3 pulses).

The pulsing allows the target tissue to absorb the pulse energy while providing the thermal relaxation time necessary for the epidermis to cool down and remain protected.

• Pulse duration: This is the duration of each of the pulses, measured in milliseconds (1ms = 0.001 sec).

• Pulse delay: This is the interval between the pulses, measured in milliseconds (1ms = 0.001 sec).

Explain thermal relaxation time (TRT)?

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The M22 Universal IPL System improves the appearance of photo-aged skin and offers permanent hair reduction (I-V).

“This refers to the time required for the peak temperature to rise in a heated region of tissue to decrease to 37% of the total rise, this is important and

The LightSheer Duet High Speed diode laser offers quick, pain-free permanent hair reduction for all skin types.

would dictate under- or over-treating an area,” says Van Staden.

“TRT provides protection of the epidermis while attacking the target. It is a major criterion for thermal control.

TRT is the necessary time for the target to cool down following the heating after the light pulse. The larger the target, the longer it takes to heat up and cool down.

“In more advanced light-based systems the operator can lengthen or shorten the pause between pulses.

Whether to increase or decrease the time of this pause is based upon the individual patient’s skin type.”

Explain cooling?

“Cooling is needed for epidermal protection and high treatment efficacy. Epidermal cooling allows higher fluences and reduces pain and side effects. The ability to control the treatment area temperature is critical for producing effective and safe treatment outcomes,” states Olivier.

“Four types of cooling have been developed: Chilled clear gel; Contact cooling; Cryogen spray; Air cooling.” PB

*Please note: Only some of the systems have been featured in this article.

The suppliers offer a comprehensive range to suit individual requirements.

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PROMOTION

Laser and IPL –

a consumer perspective EMR Scale Pulsed Dye 585

Excimer 308

KTP 532

Ruby 694

A

recent edition of Professional Beauty (April 2013) featured a number of devices, each claiming to be unique and the best for hair removal and other skin treatments.

But how should the prospective consumer value these claims, since nowhere was price and cost brought into the equation or the alternatives evaluated albeit the exposure to the ‘Sales Song and Dance’. A few generic facts and figures could support a rational and realistic purchase decision when confronted with clichés such as ‘Powerful performance’, ‘Greater comfort’, ‘Painless procedure’, ‘Pulse dynamics’ etc.

Lasers in perspective The origin of lasers are photons released by molecular electrons of certain media (gas, CO2, crystals, dyes, etc.) which, under certain conditions, produce laser light, i.e. Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation. Laser energy is characterised by a single wavelength on the electromagnetic absorption spectrum which, in turn, affords specific properties regarding tissue penetration, absorption

Near Infrared

38

Professional Beauty June 2013

400

500

600 Visible

700

by water or pigment in the skin. Sufficient energy is absorbed by the chromophore (melanin in hair follicle) to generate enough heat to damage the hair follicle permanently.

Specific Laser Applications The Alexandrite laser at 755 nm is effective for follicle damage and thus hair reduction.

The Nd:YAG laser at 1064nm is absorbed by blue veins and black tattoos but far less than the 755nm Alexandrite for hair removal.

Since lasers are single application devices adding to cost for multiple applications with the added experience of heat and pain on darker skin types (IV, V, VI), cooling devices have to be used to compensate, e.g. ice packs, cryo-cooling or chill-tips.

This brings vaso-constriction to blood vessels and thus compromises effective treatment. Hair reduction requires 70° C for 1ms or an inflammatory response will then be inhibited by cooling.

Although multiple-wave lasers are possible, the cost will be high and maintenance remains a challenge. In the

Absorption Spectrum

Ho-YAG 2070

Er-YAG 2940

CO2 10600

Diode 810

UV 300

Nd-YAG 1064

Alexandrite 755

800

900

1000

Mid Infrared 1500

2000 3000 4000 5000 7500

Far Infrared 10000

20000

Wavelength (nm)

August 2007 issue of Professional Beauty, the average cost of a laser was said to be between R500 000 and R950 000.

Today, the dual mode Alexandrite and Nd:YAG laser in one system (e.g. Bios) is nevertheless an option and prices have become more affordable.

Diode Lasers Diode lasers have recently come to the fore mostly with cooling tips and devices such as suction, high repetition rates, etc. To achieve adequate fluence (the amount of energy delivered per unit area expressed as J/cm2), the spot size and/or collective tip must be small, e.g.

1x1 cm, limiting treatment time, but with high fluence 120J/cm2. Some large tips have been designed, e.g. 10x30 mm but at lower fluence. Nevertheless, a large number of diode shots are required to fill a tip area. At least 200 diode shots would equate one (1) IPL 1x5 cm area shot.

Although some 2-4 million diode shots is often quoted as the life time of a diode handpiece, that would equate to some 20 000 1x5cm area IPL shots. The

Wavelengths of (Ellipse) hand pieces

PROMOTION difference would be in the refurbishment/replacement price with the diode handpiece being 10x higher, not generally advertised.

More recently, some diode lasers have nevertheless become more affordable (e.g. Lutronic).

The IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) Option With the IPL technology, the efficacy, safety and cost of the IPL have made it an attractive alternative. Unlike the single wavelength, the IPL is a multiple wavelength device operating mostly between 400nm and 1200nm.

Thus an IPL can be used for general applications, e.g. hair reduction, skin rejuvenation, collagen stimulation, pigmentation removal and the treatment of vascular lesions.

Whereas some IPL systems use only one handpiece for all treatments, advanced IPL systems, e.g. Ellipse, have specific applicators for specific treatments, each with a specific group of wavelengths. This in fact affords efficiency and safety.

melamin is in this 400 – 950nm range. In the range 950 - 1200nm, IPL light or laser is absorbed by water which then heats up 70% of the skin and precedes a burn.

Therefore, most IPL devices must use cooling devices, either ice packs, chill-tips etc. to compensate, which in some devices, e.g. Ellipse IPL, is not necessary since the advanced technology eliminates the water absorption range 950 – 1200nm.

Effective IPL Pulse Most IPL devices deliver a spiked or curved pulse which entails the increased risk of over- or undertreatment. However, research (Prof Peter Bjerring, Denmark) has shown that optimal results are directly related to the square pulse germane to the Ellipse IPL. The above features, e.g. dual-mode filtering, differentiated handpieces, together with the patented square pulse, allow you to heat all skin types without complications.

 

  • -  •   •   •   • 

  •  •   •  •   •   •   •  -

RF and IPL

HR vs HR-D One of such handpieces in the Ellipse is the HR-D handpiece, used specifically for dark skin (IV, V, and VI). Compared with the HR handpiece with a single, relatively short pulse 5-10ms with high energy, the HR-D has a longer pulse width 20-40ms at a much lower energy level. The net effect is nevertheless adequate energy, i.e. 70°C for 1ms to damage the follicle without burning the melamin-rich skin.

Thermal Relaxation Time With the VL-2 handpiece for skin rejuvenation, two rapid pulses are present in the single flash. The period between the two pulses allows for heat dissipation, i.e. thermal relaxation time, between the pulses to avoid over-heating, but with adequate effect.

VPL and Other Pulse Dynamics In the advanced type of IPL, it is in fact possible to manipulate the pulse size and number for whatever reason, e.g. with the Ellipse IPL one can manipulate a single pulse to convert to several pulses, pulse height and pulse length, etc. This ability is also called Variable Pulse Length (VPL).

IPL Devices and Burns Most IPL devices operate between 400nm and 1200nm. However, the optimal absorption of the relevant chromophores, haemoglobin and

Some IPL systems require additional, costly modalities such as RF, (radiofrequency, using electric high frequency alternating current in the frequency range of 0.3 – 10MHz for connective tissue tightening by means of heat generation) with the IPL to attain a result. Research with advanced IPL systems show that, e.g. in the Ellipse IPL, the RF makes no difference in the results and thus avoid additional cost.



Conclusion It is clear from the above that the prospective buyer of a beauty treatment system has to be aware of the broad spectrum of machines currently available on the market. At all times, ease-of-use, cost efficiency as well as the ability to provide satisfactory end results, have to be considered before purchasing any machine. Obviously, only tried and tested machines with a reputation for providing excellent results, substantiated by articles published in recognised scientific publications, should be considered. Other factors, such as locally available training, technical support and maintenance, should also play a role in finally selecting the right system. PB

For more details, contact Technolase at 012 349 1750 or technola@mweb.co.za.

Visit our website www.technolase.co.za

Professional Beauty June 2013



•  •  •  • 

 •   • - •  •  • 

     

  

39

• • • • • •

- 

AGING IS A NATURAL PROCESS. NOW SO IS ANTI-AGING.

PRIORI® CoffeeBerry®* Natureceuticals™ introduces the first and only all natural** skincare line with cosmeceutical grade anti-aging benefits. Designed for eco-conscious, natural health-oriented men and women, CoffeeBerry® delivers dramatic anti-aging skincare benefits based purely on natural ingredient formulations. before

after

before

after

COffEEBERRy® NATURECEUTICALS™ NATURE’S MOST POTENT ANTI-AGING BOTANICAL

www.prioriskincare.com

A&I Importers (A member of the A&I HOLDINGS group of companies) Exclusive Distributors of PRIORI® | 011 486 4904 | info@ai-importers.co.za

*Protected by US and International pending patents. The CoffeeBerry® trademark and related pending patents are exclusively licensed by J&J Technologies, LC. **Products range from 98.4 – 100% natural ingredients

Î

PEELING

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Nature’s revitaliser The Priori CoffeeBerry Naturaceuticals 50-minute Yoga Treatment is ideal for all skin types, including sensitive skin. It re-textures, brightens, makes wrinkles less visible, leaving your skin more radiant and relaxed.

Antonella Desi discusses her experience.

T

he treatment, that contains CoffeeBerry which is nature’s most powerful antioxidant discovered so far, begins with a 5-minute Yoga facial and scalp massage, which calms the nerves and helps you to unwind so that your senses are more open for what’s to come. Once you are fully relaxed, you receive a full facial cleanse, repeated twice, using the CoffeeBerry Revitialising cleanser.

When the skin is entirely cleansed and blotted dry, protective eye pads are applied, followed by the CoffeeBerry Enzyme Masque which is gently applied over the face, neck and décolletage region. It is left for 10 minutes to allow for the enzyme activation effect, where you will feel a very slight tingling sensation, but nothing uncomfortable.

During the 10-minute wait, you enjoy a hand and arm massage. After 10 minutes are up, the CoffeeBerry masque is removed using clean cotton pads.

A specific acupressure ‘Relax & Firm’ facialmassage is carried out which is designed to lift and firm the treatment area and improve lymphatic drainage.

After the massage, a final cleanse is performed using the CoffeeBerry Revitalising Cleanser. This provides the correct base for the CoffeeBerry Tightening Serum.

This deliciously luxurious treatment is closed off with the application of CoffeeBerry Radiance Eye Serum, CoffeeBerrry Brightening Facial Complex (only in the event that the skin being treated has pigmentation), CoffeeBerry Day Complex, CoffeeBerry Natural Daily Protections SPF25 and CoffeeBerry Perfecting.Minerals.

This treatment left me feeling revitalised and energised – I left the salon with a bright and positive bounce in my step. I was also really impressed at the visible differences – in only one treatment, my skin felt

exceptionally smooth to the touch, deep wrinkles seemed to have been plumped out and my pigmentation was definitely reduced. Even the finer wrinkles around my eyes seemed to have reduced in size.

One week after the treatment, my skin still feels smooth to the touch and deeply moisturised.

So often with treatments, you have to have faith in the “before and after” images found on the brochures, as the results will only be noticeable after a number of treatments. This is especially true of natureceuticals, which are often slow to work. However, with the Priori CoffeeBerry treatment there were visible differences after just one treatment. The rapid effects it had on my skin have definitely motivated me to go for more treatments. My first encounter with the CoffeeBerry products left me wondering that, if I can see such a transformation after just one treatment,

imagine what a difference could be made after a number of treatments.

The product’s fragrance is not too sweet, but boasts a pleasant and whimsical organic-type aroma that can be appreciated by both men and women.

The Priori CoffeeBerry products certainly offer a high-end luxurious treatment that not only serves to improve the condition of your skin, but also leaves you relaxed and rejuvenated. What’s more is that you know that it is formulated using entirely natural ingredients and yet delivers clinical levels of anti-ageing results, – no harmful chemicals – which is good for you and good for the environment too. PB

Contact: A & I Importers 011 486 4904 or email: info@ai-importers.co.za or visit: www.ai-importers.co.za

Professional Beauty July 2013

41

Î

PEELING

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Inner glow RégimA peeling facial treatment combines the effective action of powerful AHAs with calming, soothing and regenerative care.

Belinda Wewege visits Skin Care on Kelly in Boskruin to experience this treatment first-hand.

I

am warm, comfortable and relaxed listening to soothing music as I await my pampering RégimA treatment.

The therapist’s (Tracey’s) skilled hands begin their magic. She informs me of every step she is taking, explaining the function of each product she is applying and what I may expect. Firstly, the deepacting Professional Cleansing removes my make-up and perfectly prepares the skin for penetration of the anti-ageing actives within my treatment. Tracey notes that I have rosacea on my cheeks, which tends to be more obvious in the cold dry months.

On questioning, I admit that I had been using a face scrub, thinking it would keep my skin smoother. Unfortunately it has not been good for my skin, exacerbating those broken capillaries, so it is now gone from my routine.

Now comes the serious stuff, my rejuvenation begins – Laser Gel barriers the sensitive nostrils and lips prior to application of my 40% ‘Peel & Heal’ treatment. This will rapidly remove those winter cobwebs from my face, revealing my inner glow. Tracey warns me that tingling will start once she has applied the Natural Peel, as this is partly how the peel penetrates and functions, but not to worry as she will relieve this by massaging the Laser Gel, which has a ‘natural anaesthetic effect’, and yes it does work. My eyes, tired from a long week at work, are next, receiving attention with Eye & Peri-Oral Masque, which is extremely soothing on application. This versatile masque is also applied to my peri-oral area to help stave off any lines that may start to develop around the mouth.

My neck and décolleté are treated to the Exfoliating Natural Enzyme Masque, which is cool, tingly, and refreshing – I can feel those fine lines on the décolleté tightening already. And how about those hands?

42

Professional Beauty July 2013

They are also treated to a ‘Peel & Heal’ treatment, which includes the lower arms and the elbows.

It is now time for the ‘Peel & Heal’ to be removed. Tracey explains that it is critical to ensure that neutralisation is complete, as these are powerful natural AHAs which are time-dependent.

The Alginate Espresso Masque is then applied to my full face, exciting the cells with its deep action, followed by the sheer decadence of the Sea Collagen & Amazonian Clay Masque. Both these masques contain azelaic acid, which is excellent for treating rosacea. I relax enjoying a crescendo of lovely fresh plant smells and sensations.

While my masques are working their magic my home care routine is explained to me. It is critical to have products that work synergistically and I am delighted to hear that each product has several functions: Cleansing & Toning Gel clarifies, tightens and renders the skin more penetrable; while the B-Complex Daily Radiance will give me back my youthful glow and provide ultimate UVA & UVB protection. Night Booster is going to help prevent those dreaded wrinkles, deeply and naturally exfoliating every night while I sleep. Because of my broken capillaries, RégimA Scar Repair is added to my regime am and pm under my day and night products.

Following the removal of the masques

and peel from my hands and arms, a layering of serums is applied. It is explained to me that the layering of active products is very important, particularly if there are a number of problems, such as pigmentation, dehydration, acne, and scarring etc. I love every layer. My eyes benefit from the Revital-EYZ then the New Expression 3 in 1 underneath to relieve puffiness, dark circles and to relax those laughter lines.

Because my skin appeared dry when I arrived, I am treated to Rapid Ultra Hydrating & Firming Serum, which is rich in hyaluronic acid, plus Radical Difference, a myorelaxant with a plumping action on the skin. B-Complex and Finishing Touch are applied to my face, neck and décolleté to complete the facial treatment. My hands and arms are bathed in Vitamin D3 Serum, putting back the essential Vitamin D my body needs to help fight off lifethreatening cancers. Sun Pro is also applied to my hands and arms to ensure the skin is nourished and protected.

Mission accomplished – I leave the salon feeling on top of the world, my skin glowing, my confidence boosted, and ready for anything. PB

Contact: RégimA 011 615 2869 or email: info@regima.com or visit: www.regima.com

Radiance

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PEELING

online at www.probeauty.co.za

So smooth Optiphi offers a gentle yet high effective peel that even a man can handle.

Phil Woods relays his experience.

M

e! Having a peel treatment?

Uh, not sure about that, I thought, after all I’m a bloke, do blokes have skin peels? “Yes,” said the ladies at the Lash and Brow Salon in Bryanston, “Of course they do, some opt for the full course of six treatments.”

So, having been assured that I would not end up looking a bit like a beetroot with a bit of hair on top, I plunged in, so to speak. The optiphi Skin Rejuvenation Peel is actually a gentle prelude to a very nice relaxing facial, nothing to worry about.

We started off with a gentle cleanse which was repeated for a second time, standard stuff apparently, not a reflection on my personal hygiene. A little protection in the form of Vaseline was applied to the sensitive areas of the face such as lips, eyes and sides of the nose, and then the mild peel was painted on with a brush. I had been told that I may feel a certain tingling sensation, but often clients did not even feel that. Well of course, being a guy, I felt the tingling, not quite a thousand ants chewing my skin, but a tingling. I did not whimper but took it like a man.

My therapist was keen to help and gently tapped my face and neck with her fingers for a few minutes. This was to alleviate any discomfort, but also I think, to stop me from scratching the odd area.

The Skin Rejuvenation Peel combines the regenerative effects of glycolic acid with a number of ‘potent actives’, which helps to stimulate cellular activity, resurface the skin and increase collagen synthesis, among a list of other benefits. After a few minutes of gentle finger tapping over my face, a neutraliser was applied, which effectively de-activated the peel.

Now at this point I must confess I started to relax, well, doze off actually, so my recollection is less precise.

After having experienced the peel, the

The Skin Rejuvenation Peel helps to stimulate cellular activity, resurface the skin and increase collagen synthesis. therapist applied optiphi’s Protecting Revitaliser. This particular product is aimed at ensuring that all the good work of the peel is continued, ensuring that the skin is nourished with the right ingredients post-treatment. While this was doing its stuff to my skin, my therapist gave me a very soothing head and shoulder massage, hence my rather relaxed state of mind.

The product information lists a good number of benefits to the skin. A few of these being that it ensures the protection of the natural anti-oxidant mechanism in the skin, delays cellular aging and helps delay cellular aging.

The whole treatment helps with issues, such as dehydration, reverses sun damage and achieves a smoother, resurfaced, radiant and regenerated skin. How did I feel after the treatment? Great, I did not look like I had been sandblasted, my complexion was glowing, my skin felt smooth, and, dare I say, silky. Life was good. PB

Contact: optiphi on 012 667 6243/4 or visit: www.optiphi.com

Professional Beauty July 2013

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PEELING

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Brighten up Prior to undergoing the superficial peel, Rozlyn Williams, trainer for DermaFix, dropped off her prescribed products as part of my preparation, as it is highly recommended to control the melanocytes.

Ursula Wong reports.

T

hree weeks later, I arrived at the DermaFix headquarters and completed a comprehensive client consultation form. Following an explanation of skin peels and what to expect, I signed a consent form.

“A thorough assessment is mandatory in the consultation process pre-peel. This is to correctly ascertain which peeling medium to apply appropriately, according to the Fitzpatrick Skin Type index, in order to address any concerns prior to going forward with the peeling process,” informed Rozlyn.

My case history cited a 10-day course of cortisone in February, and because it was over three months before the treatment, it was OK to proceed. “Cortisone thins the skin and is contra-indicated for skin peels,” she explained.

“The present condition of the skin was considered before deciding on a plan of action to be used in our progressive peeling system. An allergy to aspirin was noted; therefore beta hydroxy (salicylic acid) peels were excluded.

“DermaFix DermaBright (mandelic acid) was chosen as it is a progressive facial peel with no downtime for the sensitized client’s skin still needing corrective skin care before more aggressive peeling mediums are introduced.

“It is derived from the hydrolysis of bitter almonds - an alpha hydroxyl acid - was consequently chosen for its gentleness and the ability to help to regenerate new collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.”

After using Gentle Cleanser followed by a degreasing agent, it was now time for the peel, which

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Professional Beauty July 2013

was applied in three steps. The skin was carefully observed to gauge whether it was safe to progress. As it went to work, I felt slight tingles, but nothing shocking.

Rozlyn explained that mandelic acid has been studied extensively for common skin problems in photo ageing, irregular pigmentation, acne and smoothing scars and stretch marks with regular use.

“DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care has used mandelic acid for the past eight years. It is currently one of the peeling mediums of choice adopted by the medical professionals involved in aesthetics in South Africa.”

“Since superficial peels do not reach the level of the dermis, the dermal components are only minimally activated with the progressive DermaFix DermaBright peeling system. This was boosted in the treatment with a combination of enzymes under steam for 10 minutes,” she said.

The peel was removed and then a healing antioxidant of hydrastabilised DermaFix Vitamin C Serum, containing Yarrow flower extract, was applied to encourage new collagen fibres and as an anti-inflammatory.

DermaFix Vitamin Therapy Masque was then applied with soothing beta carotene, avocado oil and chamomile for 15 minutes, to calm the skin.

Protection with DermaShield SPF45 UVA/UVB high protection sunscreen with zinc oxide completed the peel.

A post-peel homecare pamphlet explains the appropriate DermaFix products to use, steps to follow from Day 1 through to Day 10, as well as reminders of what one can expect.

A very important point was stressed

by Rozlyn: “Use DermaShield SPF45 sunscreen.

Sun exposure without necessary shielding before and after a peel procedure will lead to hyperpigmentation.”

My skin felt dry and tight around the lips, chin and nose area for the first couple of days, however it was bearable.

I experienced a sandpapery texture, indicating microscopic sloughing. The end result, however, was a more luminous, even-textured skin, with less blemishes and irregularities.

According to Rozlyn, provided clients do not have important weekend functions to attend, the preferred day to have a peel is a Wednesday, because Day 3 is when flaking and peeling begins.

After the initial peel, it is advised that on Day 5 another facial treatment and masque be applied by the skincare professional, who can gauge results, discuss optimum peel strengths and how to space additional peels for maximum benefit. PB

Contact: 0861 28 23 23 email: info@dermafix.co.za website: www.dermafix.co.za

Photo-ageing Hyperpigmentation Acne & Congestion Stretch Marks & Scarring

Advanced Cosmeceuticals... Visible results

HYDRA CLINIC

N

Ericson Laboratoire South Africa 011 783 9817/072 302 2879 www.ericson-laboratoire.com

EW

SCIENTIFIC H 2 O BOOSTER

Î

NAILS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Aspire for excellence

Competing is probably one of the most effective ways by which to gain further experience and assess yourself, your skills and techniques, whether you are already an experienced professional or just starting out as a novice nail technician.

Sonette Van Rensburg advises competitors what to expect from this year’s competition.

P

articipating in a competition is by no means an easy task to undertake and can be quite challenging if you are not fully prepared or don’t know what to expect. There is a combination of very important points and aspects which need to be taken into consideration when entering a competition. It is vital that you are aware of all of them to ensure that it does not turn out to be a stressful experience, but rather a positive one, and one from which you can learn, and by which you can improve yourself and aspire to become the best you possibly can be in your profession.

Remember to set worthwhile and purposeful goals for yourself and know what it is that you would like to

achieve by competing. Be prepared – this will give you the edge when competing wisely. Speak to some of the top professionals in the industry who have actually won competitions and they will tell you that they did not win a competition the very first time they ever entered. It took courage, determination, practice and perseverance for them to eventually succeed. Remember they also had to start somewhere, so be humble enough to learn from them.

How do the judges decide on the perfect winning set of nails?

Being a professional competition and event, every attempt is made to ensure >

Professional Beauty July 2013

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online at www.probeauty.co.za

Pics from Professional Beauty 2013 Nail Competition.

that qualified judges are assigned as part of the judging panels. Judges and floor marshals get together prior to the competitions for a detailed judge’s briefing and training. This is to ensure each and every one of them are clear as to exactly what they are judging, what their responsibilities are, and, most importantly, what the criteria are that they have to look out for.

It takes more than one judge’s decision to decide on the final and total score - three experts make up the judging panel. A closed judging system is used in most categories, such as the nail enhancement categories, and models are randomly assigned numbers according to the category, so that the judges have no prior knowledge of which technician created which set of nails.

Specific criteria, which have been set out with a point system on a score sheet, guide the judges in scoring the points for each and every nail. This includes the floor judges’ scores for hygiene, safety, tidiness and presentation. The scores are then added up to reveal the final result. Consistent scoring is critical in producing the correct results.

Therefore, in order to ensure that the judging process takes place as quickly and effectively as possible, each of the judges is assigned to judge between

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of three judges is assigned and their individual scores will be tallied up together along with the pre-judging points to reveal the total score.

Pre-competition planning Entry: Firstly obtain an entry form and brochure. Choose the category which best suits your skills and abilities. Do not choose something with which you are not comfortable; you need to know what you are doing in order to stand a chance of being placed.

4-5 criteria per score sheet. This makes the judging totally fair and unbiased, as each judge is able to concentrate and focus on those particular criteria only, keeping the judging consistent and preventing any one judge from raising or lowering a competitor’s score.

Judging sheets are made available to competitors after the awards ceremony and judges will make every effort to be available for any questions or critique.

The Nail Art and Make-up Competitions are judged through a different system, known as an open judging system, as judges need to be able to physically see the nail technician’s or artist’s work from head to toe to be able to score it. A panel

Rules & regulations: Visit www. probeauty.co.za, and make sure you read and understand all the rules and regulations of the competition thoroughly. It is important to adhere to them, as they have been set out for a reason, and in accordance with international standards. If you don’t follow such instruction, it could lead to misunderstandings and lose you points. If you have any questions, or are unsure of anything, rather contact the competition director for clarification.

Availability: Check your availability and do not plan anything else for that day.

A lot of planning goes into organising a competition. Staff and judges set time aside to be there for as long as they need to be and so should you and your model. To execute a fair, unbiased >

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NAILS

Categories for 2013 Nail Art Competition – Open to all levels

• Photographic Nail Art • Tip Box Nail Art • Freehand Nail Art • Fantasy 3D Nail Art

online at www.probeauty.co.za

set worthwhile and purposeful goals for yourself and know what it is that you would like to achieve by competing.

-------------------------------------------------

Nail Enhancement Competition • Tip Overlay Liquid & Powder - Novice level - Intermediate level

Gel - Novice level - Intermediate level -------------------------------------------------

Sculpting Competition • Traditional Pink & White • Liquid & Powder - Intermediate - Masters

• Gel - Intermediate - Masters

• Custom Colour – All levels -------------------------------------------------

Entry Levels explained Entry Level 1 ~ Novice Students and beginners who have less than two years’ experience and have never participated in any type of nail competition before.

Entry Level 2 ~ Intermediate Practising nail technicians with more than two years’ experience who have never been placed or won a competition or ranked as a top competitor.

Entry Level 3 ~ Masters Any nail professional who owns any portion of a nail manufacturing company; any nail tech who is employed full-time by a manufacturer in the capacity of an educator or is producing nails for advertising, photo shoots or education programmes; any competitor who has won a competition locally or internationally, or placed first in a minimum of two competitions.

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judging process takes time and cannot be rushed, so try to be patient; it is a long day for everyone involved.

Location: Make sure you know where the competition is taking place and what time it starts. If you are unsure contact the organisers of the event on 011 781 5970. The times for the competition have been set according to a strict schedule and can’t change; if you are late you will not be able to enter.

Model: Finding a model can sometimes be the biggest challenge a competitor can face, and is also the most important part of competing. Don’t leave it to the last minute, and always have a backup just in case your model lets you down. Make sure that they are reliable, committed, and are willing to be there for the entire day, until after the judging and awards ceremony has taken place.

They should be supportive and patient and take it as seriously as you do. You can ascertain whether you have chosen the right person by performing a trial run prior to the competition.

Practice: Practise, practise, practise.

This definitely should not be left to the last minute. Start at least 4-6 weeks prior to the competition. If you have competed before, and have your previous score sheet, use the judges’ comments to improve on certain areas of weakness. Work at perfecting each and every criterion by paying careful attention to detail and being very critical of your own work. The key is to be disciplined and consistent in every aspect of your work.

Workshops: Attend any pre-competition workshops. These will provide step-by-step assistance on exactly what it entails to enter a competition and what to expect. Most experienced professionals will have developed their own techniques over the years, and these will not change, but getting assistance to refine and improve on those skills will benefit you and

allow you to compete with absolute confidence.

Be organised: Make sure you are well organised by preparing a packing list of all the products and items you will require in order to compete. You should be as well prepared as you would be in your salon, so make sure you take everything you need to the competition.

Also, take a lamp, as unfortunately the lighting is not always the best.

Competition day Competition set-up: Arrive earlier than stipulated, so that you can register and prepare your work area, and use your checklist to make sure you have everything packed out and ready according to the criteria and requirements for the competition.

Pre-judging: Even though competitors know the criteria for pre-judging, some may think it is not necessary to adhere to them fully and that they can make up the points with their main judging criteria – do not get caught unawares without the necessary items and products. The criteria should not be new or uncommon to anyone in the professional industry and should be standard requirements and practices that are carried out in your salons anyway. In all international competitions if you don’t adhere to a particular criteria or rule, you will not score any points, not even half points. A single point could be the difference between first and second place even if you did the most fantastic and skilled work.

Floor marshals will judge competitors on criteria such as: Appearance: Whether you wear a uniform or smart business attire, dress professionally and look neat and tidy.

Work area set-up: It is important to make sure that all the required products are ready and set out in a neat, >

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NAILS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Speak to some of the top professionals in the industry who have actually won competitions and they will tell you that they did not win a competition the very first time they ever entered. professional and orderly manner prior to the competition starting.

Products: All items and products should be set out neatly and professionally, be in their original containers and bottles, and be clearly marked so it can be seen what the technician is using. Containers should be clean and well presented, and the area should not be cluttered with unnecessary products or items. Do not leave products open to spill.

Safety procedures: Observing health & safety is important to make sure To register for the nail that the competitor is at risk of being exposed to products. We and make-up competitions to recommend that you wear take place at Gallagher Estate on safety glasses, or even a 1 and 2 September 2013, visit surgical mask to prevent overexposure to chemicals and www.probeauty.co.za. or contact vapours. Use hand-sanitisers the competition director, and dispose of cotton and Sonette van Rensburg: email paper liners constantly during the competition. sonette@probeauty.co.za or Consultation: You are expected to complete a consultation form with all the relevant and necessary information.

Sanitation and hygiene: Some form of disinfection system is required and needs to be visible at your table. Antibacterial soap, spray bottle, hand-sanitiser, disinfectant liquid and soaking unit, implement storage unit, clean fresh towels, salon place mat, small bin and not a plastic bag, any other items to make sure it shows that you take “Universal Sanitation” and hygiene seriously.

Professionalism: Contestants and models must behave in a professional manner throughout the competition. Should you or your model need to leave the competition area, you will be escorted by a competition official. However, your time cannot be made up.

Time management: Creating perfectly flawless work in a competition environment is an entirely different situation than when you are in the salon. Planning and managing your time makes all the difference – use your time wisely by spending it on the most important aspects of your work that need to be perfected.

Judging criteria: Understand and know the judging criteria for your particular

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sonettevr@gmail.com

category really well. You need to know exactly what is expected of you. These criteria are very specific to each category and are in place for the competitor’s own benefit. These include the requirements and criteria for the pre-judging as well.

As you work check yourself against the criteria that have been given and whether you have fulfilled it or not, and pay careful attention to detail and neatness, this will help to guide you in the right direction.

Nail enhancement category Make sure you pay attention to detail and perfecting each criterion, as they all affect one another. For example: if the sidewalls are straight and even, the C Curve should automatically be perfectly balanced and symmetrical from sidewall to sidewall.

Well-engineered nail enhancements are structurally balanced, thin, even and consistent in shape and colour. Judges are not looking for nail enhancements with the deepest smile line or C curve.

The most important factor is consistency in every aspect of your work. Others

include: neatness and perfection in the shape, length and form of each nail. They should be finished off with a perfectly smooth scratch-free surface, correct placement of the upper arch and a superior high-gloss shine.

Research the work of some really well-known nail stylists and competition winners, such as Vicki Peters, Tom Bachick, Tom Holcomb, Trang Nguyen and Iryna Giblett.

Nail art & make-up category In these categories competitors have the complete artistic freedom to explore and create the most amazing masterpieces according to a set theme. Designs should be original and different from anything that has ever been seen before; they should combine the artist’s imagination and skill, utilising various colour theory techniques to achieve uniqueness and continuity. They should tell a story, as well as show the artist’s inspiration, creativity and artistic skills. PB

Sonette has been in the nail and beauty industry for 24 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191

2013

G R U B S 13 0 E 2 N r e N b A m e t H p JO 1 & 2 Se

Your success is our passion Some attractions at the biggest event in the hairdressing industry Stage Extravaganza

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LIVE cutting & styling demos

Book your FREE ticket at www.professionalhair.co.za and save the R75 on-site entrance fee.

Simply quote lucky ticket number HJ1 and stand a chance to win an Ipad Mini.

2013

1&2 SEPTEMBER JOHANNESBURG

Paul Mitchell Spring Collection

Twincare Stage

TIGI

EOHCB National Hair

Competition

International Seminar

Î

HAIR FOCUS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

On the

cutting edge In line with the strengthening synergies between hair and beauty, Professional Beauty showcases hair treatments, trends, colours and services. Let’s look at what’s hot and happening for this issue.

Every salon owner wants to fill their chairs with loyal clients who come back every six weeks and buy what you suggest; wants profits to multiply even when chairs are all filled; wants to attract great stylists and keep them; wants steady cash flow; wants more referrals than they can handle; and wants to charge whatever they like.

Robin J. Elliot, former salon development director for Redken, Wella and Goldwell in South Africa, who has spent 15 years in North America training thousands of salon owners and employees, has the answers in his book: How to double the profits in your hair salon. This book is also applicable for nail bars, beauty salons and spas. www.leverageadvantage.com

Philips launches Thermoprotect Hairdryers – a blow-dryer developed in collaboration with renowned hair care experts which offers a temperature setting of only 57˚C, and which dries hair quickly and effectively without the risk of overheating hair and scalp. This also aids with preventing excessive moisture loss, protecting the hair during styling. This model also comes with an ergonomically designed diffuser with soft, air-cushioned massaging pins, gently massaging the scalp during drying time.

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Biosense Create range contains silk amino acids which are watersoluble and non-animal proteins which penetrate and strengthen the hair, adding softness and body while protecting against heat elements, without weighing down the hair. The range consists of a mousse, thermal protect, smooth, glaze and gum.

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HAIR FOCUS

Hannon Scalp Therapy Treatment Mask penetrates into the three layers of the skin to help rebuild damaged cell tissues in the scalp, relieving most common scalp disorders such as hair loss and dry, itchy scalp. It is ideal for colour and chemically treated hair as it heals inflamed conditions, is rehydrating on the skin, and prevents split ends.

Ingredients include: Vitamin B5, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, biovlavanoids, jojoba, wheat germ and liposomes.

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online at www.probeauty.co.za

Repechage introduces its Hydra-Amino18 Hair spa professional treatment. This first-of-its kind selfheating (for improved penetration) treatment mask is geared to bridge professional skin and hair services, enabling beauty professionals to offer complete spa services from head to toe. Selected seaweed plants with 18 acids, 12 vitamins, 42 trace elements and minerals and natural botanicals work together to help restore damaged and chemically treated hair, protect the hair against the effects of weather, pollution and UV damage and infuse the hair with a youthful lustre that lasts. The company has also launched two at-home products: a serum and a seaweed mask to continue the benefits of the treatment at home.

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Davines launches A New Colour, a system in three components for permanent colouring that is ammonia-free, making use instead of the properties of natural actives which are carefully balanced. This system is versatile and easy-to-use, with no waste, whether covering white hair, lightening or darkening or changing reflects. Available in 43 different shades, A New Colour also has a strong anti-oxidant action, is odourless and leaves hair feeling soft, hydrated and silky.

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ghd has unveiled its styler. Developed exclusively by ghd scientists, the ghd eclipse uses patented tri-zone technology to style the toughest textures, such as thick, curly or afro hair. It can also style larger sections of hair, making it easier and faster to use. This technology features six quick sensors in each plate, ensuring that no heat is lost during styling and that a constant temperature (185˚C) is maintained for every stroke, thus achieving results from the first stroke. Aerogel insulation ensures the coolest handling and precision-finished plates for optimum heat transfer and snag-free styling.

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Professional Beauty July 2013

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Inoar introduces an aftercare hair line that is based on the same principles as BB Creams in cosmetics – treat, moisturise, and restore hair naturally. With a high percentage of natural emollients, such as sunflower, sesame, linseed olive and macadamia, as well as omegas, the products act immediately, plus they are completely sulphate-free.

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ĂŽ

MEDICAL AESTHETICS

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Age attack The use of antioxidants in skincare products has been, and continues to be, very well researched. We cannot get away from UV exposure, but limiting the exposure and protecting our skins from free radical damage on a daily basis can certainly help to preserve the youthfulness of the skin.

Karen Ellithorne elaborates.

T

he skin is the largest organ of the body and it is more than a mere protective barrier. Skin serves to excrete metabolic waste products, regulate body temperature and also contains nerve endings enabling us to feel sensation and protect us from pain. Like all organs of the body the health and appearance of our skin will reflect the kind of lifestyle and dietary habits we follow. Unfortunately, unlike the other organs of the body which also age, our skin is visible and clearly exhibits the consequence of ageing.

While the body and skin will age naturally at a genetically predetermined rate, there are many factors from the outside environment that will enhance this process and cause premature ageing. The types of lifestyles we follow and our general body health will play a large role in how quickly we age.

When our bodies are exposed to adverse energies, such as sunlight or inflammation caused from toxins, harmful free radicals are formed. A large percentage of premature ageing, especially in South Africa, is caused by exposure to UV light. Other culprits

are environmental pollution, poor diet, smoking, alcohol, excessive exercise and stress. Also, overweight people whose blood sugar levels have been raised will experience an imbalance in the normal biochemical reactions of the skin, which will start to disrupt the collagen and elastin structure of the dermis, thus causing premature ageing.

What is a free radical?

A free radical is a charged atom looking to take over and change other atoms and molecular structures, causing damage and disease. Oxygen-free radicals or reactive oxygen species (ROS) are largely responsible for tissue damage on the skin. The formation of ROS occurs when the body is exposed to extreme energy sources, such as sunlight or heat. The atom loses an electron from its outer orbit and becomes electrically charged. This charged atom will then go in search of another atom or molecule to steal an electron, and, in doing so, begins a cascade of damage which leads to cellular damage and possible DNA mutations within the cell nucleus.

This will lead to deterioration of the

body tissues, and, in the case of the skin, causes the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the dermis and damage in the epidermis. The result will be irregular reproduction of the keratinocytes and melanocytes leading to irregular pigmentation. Photo ageing is the result of free radical attack and will lead to hyperpigmentation, loss of dermal integrity, the formation of fine lines and wrinkles and possible cancerous mutations.

What are antioxidants?

An antioxidant is an atom that can neutralise free radicals by donating the lost electron and therefore rendering the free radical harmless.

The body can normally protect itself from free radical attack from its own immunity reserves, but if the attack becomes excessive or if the person is unhealthy or more mature, these attacks can cause severe tissue damage.

In order to prevent ageing it is important that we try and follow a healthy diet filled with fruit and vegetables and to apply an anti-oxidant to our >

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skins on a daily basis to prevent photo ageing from occurring on the skin.

French brand SkinCeuticals is a cosmeceutical range sold by doctors only. Part of the SkinCeutical philosophy is the daily application of an antioxidant to protect, and, in some instances, reverse premature ageing on the skin. The range uses four main ingredients in its antioxidant treatment, namely L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C); a-tocopherol (Vitamin E); Phloretin (from the skin of apples and other fruits) and Ferulic acid (derived from bran and oats).

However, SkinCeuticals says that the skin is designed to prevent substances from entering the body, and that a majority of cosmetic ingredients remain on the surface and are ineffectual. SkinCeuticals boasts years of academic research behind the brand that prove the penetration of its topical antioxidants. It also believes in broad spectrum SPFs that provide 55% protection from environmental free radicals, and has discovered that by combining the use of an SPF with its patented antioxidants, one can increase free radical protection by up to 96%.

Priori is a brand that is well known for pioneering the anti-oxidant Idebenone.

Ayesha Rajah of A & I Importers, the South African distributor of this brand, says that Priori has just pioneered a newer enhanced version, which the company refers to as a Superceutical.

This ingredient is being included in some of its new retail products to intensify the anti-oxidant action.

Cosmeceuticals are products that impart a visible lasting difference in the skin via ingredients that act to block or correct some of the age-related damaging pathways that occur in the skin’s aging process.

“Superceuticals are the next level of skin rejuvenation beyond cosmeceuticals, based on superbioengineered antioxidants that

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MEDICAL AESTHETICS

target aging at the cellular source, the mitochondria, thereby providing results for both intrinsic and extrinsic aging of the skin. Idebenone is different to vitamin and botanical antioxidants, as it is a respiratory chain antioxidant - a bioengineered version or analogue of our cells’ natural mitochondrial enzyme antioxidant, co- enzyme Q10, but is up to 1 000 times more efficient,” says Rajah.

Coverderm has recently launched a new anti-ageing skincare range called Coverderm Peptumax. This range contains an antioxidant called Venuceane, which is a new generation active ingredient of marine origin and a free radical scavenger. “Venuceane protects cells and DNA against UVinduced lesions and fights photoaging,” says Lezanne Myburgh of Coverderm.

South African brand Environ offers an antioxidant cream that uses ingredients like Vitamin B5, Vitamin C, Vitamin E; green tea and rosemary extract to

online at www.probeauty.co.za

assist in protecting the skin from external pollution. Its scientifically researched formula also contains Lutein, which is extracted from marigolds. This is an effective antioxidant that works significantly to reduce free radical activity.

The C-Quence Cream helps to reduce free radical activity and the visible signs of photo ageing induced by UV rays.

Another South African brand, Optiphi recommends its Protecting Revitalizer to address the symptoms of photo-aging as it contains retinol to protect collagen against sun exposure and reverse sun damage and high amounts of anti-oxidants Vitamin A,C and E (for day time exposure). It also contains Multitase phytocomplex A and B to reduce skin redness associated with sun damage. PB

With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions and Aesthetimed. In conjunction with Sally Durant Training and Consultancy UK, she also offers a range of internationally certified training courses, specifically for aesthetic practitioners, beauty therapists and nurses. Email: Karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

Medical

Get ahead in the medical aesthetics industry

aesthetics Convention 2013 Johannesburg

Looking for a rewarding and exciting turn in your professional career? Facial Aesthetic procedures continues its amazing world-wide growth pattern. The Medical Aesthetics Convention 2013 will present an overview of, and insight into the Medical Aesthetics field.

Saturday, 31 August 2013 9:30

Registration

10:00 Introduction into aesthetic and anti-aging Medicine Dr Chris Giezing

10:45 Botulinum toxin & Dermal Filler - Dr Chris Giezing 11:30 tea 12:00 Demo – Botulinum toxin & Dermal fillers - Dr Chris Giezing 12:30 the skin and chemical peeling - Sonette Donker 13:15 lunch 14:15 laser & light treatments - Johann Op’t Hof 15:00 tea

* Attendees will receive a CPD Certificate

15:30 Current ethical challenges in medical aesthetics

TOTAL CPD POINTS FOR 3 DAYS = 11 ETHICS POINTS = 2

Ulundi Behrtel An informative lecture by legal expert Ulundi Behrtel covering the current challenges that are affecting doctors in aesthetic practice.

16:30 network session and close

Sunday, 1 September 2103 9:00

Registration

9:30

InteRnatIonal speakeR - Canada Dr Renier van Aardt Peri-orbital rejuvenation treatment approaches and pearls, including some facial volumizing tips.

10:30 tea 11:00 Managing your patients expectations pre and post procedure Dr Chetan Patel Guidelines on how to keep your patients expectations realistic.

11:30 Dermal fillers and the associated complications Dr Cobus van Niekerk Dermal fillers and the associated complications that may arise when preforming treatments.

12:00 lunch and exhibition 14:00 new trends in Facial aesthetic Rejuvenation Host: Dr Gys du Plessis Injections: New indications for Botulinum Toxin Injections Dr Chris Giezing Topicals: The new approach to conditioning and peeling Dr Mark Steinman Devices: The new approach to devices - Dr Gys du Plessis

Monday, 2 September, 2013 9:00

Registration

9:30

Converting a doctor’s practice into a successful aesthetic practice Host - Buddy Reardon (Prime aesthetics) The difference between a medical practice and an aesthetic practice - Dr Marissa Stadler Staffing of an Aesthetic Practice - Buddy Reardon Converting patients to regular customers Vaughan Owgan

10:50 tea 11.20 InternatIonal Speaker - Hong kong the convergence of beauty, spa and medical aesthetics Neil Orvay The co–founder of Sense of Touch Spa, Hong Kong shares his knowledge of the harmonious relationship between beauty, spa and medical aesthetics.

11.50 ageing and the art of skin rejuvenation wounding treatments, the different options and what to use when Host - Karen Ellithorne (Aesthetimed) Skin Peels - Phillipa Crichton Collagen induction therapy - Beverly Karam D’Aguanno Laser rejuvenation - Cherie Fraser

13.20 Close - lunch and exhibition

15:20 tea 15:50 Instar Medical Workshop social Media the future of your practice Colin Campbell This workshop will provide you with the fundamental skills and information to successfully run and manage your own online brand. Bring your laptops, smart-phones and tablets, we are going to have some fun.

16:50 Close

*Topics and speakers are subject to change Seating is limited. Book early to avoid disappointment.

For more information and to book,

visit: www.medicalaesthetics.co.za

Î

PRODUCT NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

In the market Our round-up of newly launched products, equipment and innovations.

Skin revival DMK introduces TransGenesis – a luxury age management crème with a combination of potent anti-ageing ingredients. Boasting over 40 years of research, this product features: red caviar enzymes to gently exfoliate and renew; tripeptides and oligopeptides to stimulate fibroblast cells and collagen production; glycosaminoglycans for plumper, fuller-looking skin while reducing fine lines; and filaggrin modulators to help restore skin barrier functions, reducing trans-epidermal water loss.

It also contains amino acids, essential fatty acids, proteins and nutrients to produce cell development and increase the longevity of your skin’s healthy vibrancy. Natural medicines and immune-boosting agents increase younger cell activity and essential oils, sourced from geraniums, provide stimulating notes of natural fragrance.

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Fresh as ice Imbalie Beauty launches Bioeffect EGF Serum, an Icelandic skin care brand containing a high concentration of cellular activators (epidermal growth factors) natural to human skin which signal the skin to speed up its renewal process and activity. These cellular activators are copied from human skin and produced in barley seed to ensure maximum efficacy and purity. Based on 10 years of biotechnology research, this serum only contains nine ingredients, which all support the EGF, as it is a complex 3D structure that is easily damaged and rendered useless by too many chemicals.

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A renewed approach Ahava Dead Sea Laboratories Facial Renewal Peel is a less irritating alternative to chemical peeling, promoting the natural cell renewal process and reinforcing collagen synthesis. Its formulation combines powerful Dead Sea minerals with an optimised blend of alpha hydroxy acids and pure Vitamin C to provide immediate smoothing and softening benefit and exfoliating and illuminating activity.

011 315 1766

Concealing imperfections Coverderm Perfect Legs is now available in a cream and fluid texture with shades for darker skin tones. This waterproof and elastic foundation conceals imperfections and blemishes on legs and body, such as leg varicose, stretch marks, phlebitis, vitilago, scars, burns, sun spots, moles, bruises and tattoos. It is easy to apply and contains a high SPF for added protection.

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Professional Beauty July 2013

PRODUCT NEWS

Warmth at hand The Orb is a small hand-held spa appliance that can quickly and easily enhance manicure, pedicure, facial and massage treatments. It works by heating the paraffin wax, massage oil or facial mask before applying the product by brush to the treatment area. Heating the product also aids improved penetration into the skin. Since its launch in Europe last year, this product is being used in The Ritz-Carlton and Dior Nail Bars in France, Urban Retreat at Harrods, and Gstaad Palace in Switzerland.

011 705 1028

Eliminating fat Stress interferes with the metabolism, causing poor elimination and the storage of fat in specific areas. With neurocosmetics, one of the latest scientific technologies, Ericson Laboratoire introduces Lipo-Stress.

This product has a dual action on neuromediators – production of B-endorphins, major stress-relieving neurotransmitters in the upper layers of the skin that make it possible to release tension and eliminate fat more effectively and the action of a powerful neuroprotector in the skin’s deeper layers, making it possible to innervate the fatty tissue and thus decongest adipocytes. Studies revealed a slimming effect of -6cm around the hips, -4cm around the abdomen and -3.5cm around the thighs after 28 days of use.

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Professional Beauty July 2013

65

INFINI JEUNESSE

Î

PRODUCT NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Sun shield Babor Sun Spray Lotion SPF15 is supported by an intelligent system that protects the skin. The radical quenchers, Vitamin C and Vitamin E, are encased in carrier capsules that open when exposed to UV radiation. This so-called UV vector acts like a sunshade that opens automatically when the sun shines, in order to protect the skin. At the same time, an extract of cassia didymobotrya surrounds the cell like a protective shield.

011 467 0110

Acrylic action Angelic Nails liquid and powder system features high quality powders with a fine texture, making it easier to buff and shine for a perfect finish. Available in clear, white and pink these polymer powders can be mixed with any of the range’s pigments to customise colours. The monomer has a medium setting time which is perfect for intermediate professionals and makes it suitable for application at all temperatures.

Stainless steel storage sets for the powders and a dappen dish lid for the monomer are available to protect the product during application.

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a K O m D m Vitalise & protect DermaFix Stem Cell Complex contains key ingredients: Argan sprout cell extract rich in epigenetic factors and metabolites, which maintains the regenerative potential of the skin’s dermal stem cells and golden crocus bulb extract, stimulating keratinocytes to secrete growth factors that could enhance the synthesis of matrix proteins in the dermis. This combination helps reverse the ageing process, accelerate the skin’s natural repair process, and improve skin firmness and density.

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F

1 2

3 4

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Instant lift Anesi Dermo Gel Tenz has an immediate tightening and lifting effect on the skin, redefining facial contours with long-term anti-wrinkle and hydrating effects.

It accomplishes this by containing a combination of kigela, quillaja and acmella oleracea plant extracts.

It also provides instant luminosity and has been shown to increase the hydration level by 25% with a prolonged effect. This product can be combined with any Anesi treatment cream.

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Strength & flexibility After extensive research and testing the Harley Lavender Film Wax was formulated as a fusion between the Harley Strip Wax and the Harley Hot Wax. It embodies all the advantages of a traditional hot wax, but with the spreadability of a strip wax.

Special polymers make for a very strong, flexible wax that can remove hairs as short as 1mm without leaving unwanted patches or hairs that might need tweezing. It is suitable for facial brows, lips, chin, beard nose and ears and for underarm, bikini, Hollywood and Brazilians.

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Professional Beauty July 2013

Texture Gel

Retail 30 ml airless dispenser bottle

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User-friendly booking and scheduling management Client history and relationship With RefectoCil eyelash management and eyebrow tint No.employee 2 blue black you will achieve a brilliant Advanced scheduling and tracking and long-lasting tinting result. The blue lustre Comprehensive stock control and supplier history provides additional colour depth and gives your eyes an management intensive expressiveness.

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Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

SAAHSP Seminars Professional Beauty Johannesburg 1-2 September 2013 Gallagher Convention Centre

SUNDAY 1 SEPTEMBER 2013

Words of welcome for the 61st CIDESCO World Congress and Exhibition 2013 Anna-Cari Gund, President, CIDESCO International

Session 1 – 11:00-12:00 Building a career in the beauty industry Speaker: Ian Fuhr

Session 2 – 12:00-13:00 Why your beauty salon isn’t making money and what you can do about it Speaker: Vaughan Owgan

A

s President of CIDESCO International, it is a pleasure to invite you to Wuhan and the 61st CIDESCO World Congress and Exhibition, hosted by CIDESCO Section China.

Every year CIDESCO organises a meeting for Beauty Therapists which provides the perfect opportunity to learn more about the latest in aesthetics and individual professional development.

CIDESCO International was founded in 1946 and has its Head Office in Zurich, Switzerland. It is the major International Organisation in Beauty and SpaTherapy, with more than 30 member

countries, 250 beauty therapy schools and close to 80 accredited Beauty Centres.

The 61st CIDESCO World Congress & Exhibition will also give you the opportunity to explore Wuhan. With a history that dates back more than 3,500 years, Wuhan is one of the “Chinese Famous Cities of History and Culture”. Here and around East Lake you will find historical sites and beautiful nature. The main landmark inside the city is the Yellow Crane Tower.

The CIDESCO Congress is an excellent opportunity to meet and mingle with others devoted to the beauty

therapy industry. It is also the perfect way to meet your Colleagues and explore the Chinese culture.

Section China President, Ms Cheng Ming Ming and section members are working hard to ensure that the CIDESCO World Congress 2013 will be a truly memorable venue.

They plan a very interesting lecture program and exhibition, combined with exciting social events.

We look forward to meeting all CIDESCO friends and colleagues in beautiful China. on the 9th-11th November 2013 at the Wuhan International Conference & Exhibition Center For more information, visit www.cidesco-china2013.com

Session 3 –13:00-14:00 Preserving collagen Speaker: Sonette Donker

Session 4 - 14:00-15:00 Missing the mark with male clients Speaker: Dr Cobus van Niekerk

Session 5 – 15:00-16:00 Skincare service culture and exceptional standards Speaker: Lara Ashley Wicksteed

MONDAY 2 SEPTEMBER 2013 Session 1 - 11:00-12:00 FREE of charge.

Why become a designated member?

SAAHSP

Pamper party for a special girl

Session 2 – 12:00-13:00 Pregnancy and Spa Speaker: Meghan Less

Soma Sense Academy recently held a pamper party for a very special girl that has cancer.

The Cup Cakes 4 Kids with Cancer contacted the Academy and told them of this little girl’s dream. They jumped on board immediately to make her dream a reality.

On her 8th birthday she invited 10 friends to come and enjoy her party, where they were treated by the Academy to mini facials, manicures & pedicures and of course every girls’ dream – make up.

The girls enjoyed it tremendously and it was such a special day to make one child’s cancer dream come true.

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Session 3 – 13:00-14:00 Anti-ageing and the latest in innovative active ingredients Speaker: Jessica Jacobs

Session 4 – 14:00-15:00 Somatology and the treating physician – ethical pitfalls and how to prevent them Speaker: Dr Cobus van Niekerk

Cup Cakes of Hope is a nonprofit company and their aim is to raise awareness and funds for families in need of medical assistance and help

Professional Beauty July 2013

to aid in some of the children’s dreams.

Should you wish to get involved go to their website www.cupcakesofhope.org

Session 5 – 15:00-16:00 How do I look? What do I say?

Speaker: Batya Cohen To book your session contact: 011 675 6518

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e that goes be Looking for a mas sag yond Deep Tissue? per than S e e d p orts, longer than further than Tha i , ssage tha a m t gives you more?

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Day Spa Do you need assistance with setting up a professional beauty business?

Elements Beauty Concepts prides itself in offering high standards, consistency in education and service excellence that is unsurpassed, to uplift the skills of your staff and to keep your business at the cutting edge of the beauty industry.

Beauty Business Consultancyy Skills & Technical Assessments, Mystery shoppingy Training for groups, individuals and Educatorsy Customer Service & Retail Trainingy Co-ordinate & manage product launches & promotional eventsy Compiling educational programs, information and materialsy For more information contact Elements Beauty Concepts Sonette van Rensburg Mobile: 076 585 4191 Email: elementsbeautyconcepts@gmail.com Website: www.elementsbeautyconcepts.webs.com

Education & Passion are the keys to your success!

Centurion Academy is proud to announce the opening of their brand new spa Spoil yourself to a variety of treatments at prices you can afford

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Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Sally-Jane Nkomo Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: sally-jane@probeauty.co.za

EDUCATION AND TRAINING Beauty & Make-up Design School

FACE to FACE 4C Winchester Road, Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193 PO Box 2180, Houghton 2041 Tel: 011 726 2644 / 8144 / 8166 Fax: 011 726 4944 Email: info@facetoface.co.za Web: www.facetoface.co.za All courses are Nationally & Internationally accredited by SERVICES SETA (3725), ITEC, CIDESCO and City & Guilds International.

Contact: Shiloh Cell: 072 543 2620 / 072 234 6190 / 031 312 5200 The Vanity Box Training Centre and Makeup Studio

www.thevanitybox.co.za Become an Internationally Certified Image Consultant Join the experts to train you in the fastest growing industry in the world.

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Custom Salon Design and Manufacturing, allowing for unique and practical beauty spaces.

muk, The product that is funky, provocative and politically incorrect.

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Jan/Feb 2013

directory 2013

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Professional Beauty July 2013

For enquiries: Tel: 011 781 5970

Clarins Skin Spa

Science, Experience, Senses.

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Three fundamentals that make the Clarins Method unique. With over 50 years of unrivalled experience, Clarins combines the power of plants and science in high-performance formulas. In Skin Spas throughout the world, you can enjoy a customised treatment with exclusive application techniques, for a moment of pure well-being for body and mind.

Book your treatment on +27 11 809 6378