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SALON FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT
ACTION MAN! MALE GROOMING TRENDS
ENVIRON COOL PEELŽ TECHNOLOGY the intelligent skin renewal solution Environ’s unique Cool Peel Technology is safe, non-invasive and an intelligent approach to skin peeling, scientifically proven to assist in reviving, refining and brightening the appearance of skin. Cool Peel treatments are fully customisable and designed on the philosophy of gentle, repetitive peeling, which aims to protect the integrity of skin. Confidently offer a facial like no other. Contact Environ Distribution South Africa at 011 262 0264 to become an Environ stockist. #FacialLikeNoOther
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In this issue... Regulars 5 Industry news Local and international news
47 Product news All the latest launches
Aesthetic Medicine 28 Clean beauty Ethics and accountability in skincare
40 Outfitting your space
44 ‘Soft surgery’ The low down on plasma
46 Plasma devices What’s in the market
Furniture and equipment
50 SAAHSP News from the Professional Body
Business 11 Ask the Experts All your questions answered
12 Insider Tracking the industry with stats
14 Sustaining the sustainability trend
Hair 33 Crowning glory
Nails 51 NailFile Issue 31
Latest launches
34 Talking to…Angela Smith Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks
36 The ‘Suite’ life Focus on Terenzo Suites
38 Victory lap HSOTY winner Raeesa Dawood
How to do your part
Case Study 16 Hitting all the right notes Body Orchestra
Spa Focus 20 The rebirth of Feather Hill Deluxe spa opens in North West
Features 23 It’s raining men! Male grooming trends
27 Be your own man Men’s products
12 online @ probeauty.co.za
Welcome
2
O
nly if you live in Antarctica would you not have been affected, either directly or indirectly, by the spread of coronavirus (COVID-19), which is now confirmed to be in all other continents of the world. Despite its low mortality rate of around 3%, coronavirus paranoia has reigned supreme since December 2019, with countries closing their borders, going into lockdown and restricting travel. Though perfectly understandable, these actions have wreaked utter havoc with global tourism and world trade. But it’s encouraging to read in our news story on page 5, that Government has placed a strong emphasis on tourism for sustainable growth and job creation in South Africa. We must assume that coronavirus, like its distant cousin, the SARS (Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome) virus of 2003, will dissipate in the (hopefully) near future. It is always wonderful to hear of the beauty industry giving back to the community and in this issue we report on the Donate-aLoo Schools Project, which was launched by Helene Bramwell, a pioneering icon in the industry. This project requires sponsorships and donations to continue with its admirable plan of installing much needed toilets in South African schools, thus greatly improving sanitation and hygiene. More details on this project are on page 9. In this issue we run our annual report on the male grooming sector, which seems to grow steadily each year. More men’s salons are opening up in South Africa and an increasing number of beauty salons and spas are offering male-specific treatments, pointing to the fact that this target market is moving beyond the niche to the norm. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA
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Help put an end to pit toilets in schools! • We all know the problems with poor sanitation in schools and rural areas. • We often hear of children dying because of pit toilets • Donate a Loo is working hard to introduce low cost, low maintenance toilets that don’t require mains services to operate.
Clean, hygienic and environmentally friendly
All donations are welcome, bring a smile to school children and help save lives. Anyone wishing to sponsor a toilet, or make a donation, can email the Donate-a-Loo project team on donatealoo@mweb.co.za
Supported by
5 News
News How the national budget affects the industry South African spa and salon owners, as well as the distributors of products and services to this industry, must have breathed a sigh of relief when Minister of Finance, Tito Mboweni, announced on 26 February that VAT would remain the same, meaning that no extra VAT has to be added to treatment and product prices. In addition, the Minister announced that there would be income tax relief of around R2 billion. Mboweni has committed to curtailing Government’s own spending – such as its astronomical wage bill that reportedly accounts for almost a third of its overall spend – rather than increasing personal income tax. Government’s depressing debt problem aside, Mboweni’s budget
speech was, for the most part, well received. On the downside, we can expect fuel hikes this year, which automatically means delivery costs for beauty products will increase, plus consumers may tighten their belts, resulting in less
available spend for beauty and spa treatments. The fuel levy has been increased by 16c, and the levy for the Road Accident Fund (RAF) rose by 9c. The few corporate businesses in the beauty and spa industry must be encouraged by Government’s plan to lower the corporate tax rate, which has remained unchanged at 28% for more than a decade. According to Business Insider, the Government expects that the economy will only grow by 0.9% this year – and that’s with the assumption that exports will grow by 2.3%. Meanwhile, since December 2019, world trade has gone haywire due to the panic surrounding the rampant spread of the coronavirus around the globe.
Government places tourism high on its agenda As this issue of Professional Beauty went to print, the spread of the coronavirus was still adversely affecting the global tourism market. However, at the beginning of March, South Africa’s Tourism Deputy Minister, Fish Mahlalela, confirmed that government had placed a strong emphasis on tourism for sustainable growth and job creation. This is welcome news for South African spas and wellness centres, many of which are situated within destinations, resorts, game reserves and hotels that enjoy the patronage of tourists. Said Mahlalela: ‘The South African government has signed a Memorandum of Understanding/ Agreements with 27 countries across the globe, and continues to negotiate others with the aim to strengthen bilateral relations in the field of tourism.” Mahlalela was speaking at the official opening of the recent threeday Tourism Best Practice workshop
currently underway in Kempton Park, near Johannesburg, attended by international delegates, Mahlalela said the potential of economic growth and development related to the tourism sector are fully recognised, at both the continental and international levels. He continued: “In the African context, the tourism sector is confronted with a number of issues, not only in its long-term development and prosperity, but also in the strategic orientation including dealing with issues such as safety and security, as well as health challenges. “It is important to develop a tourism action plan with the view to optimise the role of tourism as an engine and catalyst for economic
development and growth in Africa, through the establishment of conducive environment, regional cooperation advocacy and stakeholder participation.” In South Africa, the Tourism Grading Council (TGCSA) is the only officially recognised and globally credible quality assurance body for tourism products, in terms of the Tourism Act 3 of 2014. The TGCSA recently announced new and revised grading standards for South Africa, including the introduction of three new categories in the form of apartment hotels and small hotels, in which the luxury form (boutique hotels) are incorporated. online @ probeauty.co.za
News
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inbrief // CNN Style has launched a brand new beauty section, making it the first global mainstream platform to offer intelligent, inclusive and value-driven editorial on personal image and beauty.
President Ramaphosa endorses African Continental Free Trade Area
// Cape Town’s Tintswalo Atlantic has launched three ‘Mindfulness Pause Retreats’, for guests who want to experience life more mindfully and who want to expand their awareness and growth.
// A new study from the Global Wellness Institute – ‘Move To Be Well: The Global Economy of Physical Activity’ – defines the six-sector global physical activity economy as comprising the fitness, sports & active recreation, mindful movement, equipment, apparel/footwear and technology markets.
// Researchers at Columbia University Irving Medical Center are investigating whether CD1, a molecule found on Langerhans cells and which resides on the basal and suprabasal layers of the epidermis, could be the key to preventing contact dermatitis.
// Following the InterContinental Hotels Group’s recent commitment to remove miniature toiletries in small plastic bottles from all its rooms by 2021, Marriott International will now switch from single use toiletries to refillable, larger bottles with a convenient pump design.
// The rise in the world’s ageing population, disposable income and awareness about the efficacy of aesthetic treatments is predicted to boost the global aesthetics market to $103.4 billion by 2026, exhibiting a CAGR (Compound Annual Growth Rate) of 8.9%.
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South African manufacturers of skincare, nail and body care products who export into Africa are likely to benefit from the African Continental Free Trade Area, which is expected to come into operation in July 2020. Africa’s new trading block was endorsed by President Cyril Ramaphosa, when he delivered the keynote address at the 2020 edition of the Ubuntu Awards held in Cape Town recently. Stated the President: “The African Continental Free Trade Area will be an important step towards rebalancing global trade relations and levelling the playing field for
African businesses. Through the Continental Free Trade Area, we want to reignite industrialisation, boost intra-African trade and benefit from the largest common market in the world.” The agreement will see member states removing tariffs from up to 90% of goods, allowing free access to commodities, goods, and services across the continent. Several African states, including South Africa, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Mauritius, Egypt, Ghana and Kenya, have already signed and ratified the sagreement.
CBD disrupts traditional beauty market Sales in the global CBD skincare market are forecasted to reach $959 million by 2024, according to cannabis market and strategic consultancy firm Prohibition Partners’ latest data. The Impact Series: Disrupting Beauty report reveals that CBD skincare could account for around 10% of all global skincare sales within the next five to 10 years. It notes that cannabidiol (CBD oil) is disrupting the traditional beauty market, with consumers demanding products that contain the wonder ingredient, which has been proven to have anti-inflammatory and antiageing properties.
CBD’s popularity has even impacted the professional beauty salon and spa market, with treatment protocols being given a CBD upgrade to help clients calm and soothe the skin. (Source: Professional Beauty UK)
News
8
Camelot opens new spa in Bantry Bay The latest in the Camelot Spa collection has opened at Aurum, the luxurious new redevelopment in Bantry Bay, Cape Town. This brings the number of Camelot Spas in South Africa to 20. Speaking to its location of mountain and sea, Camelot Spa Aurum fuses botanical décor with textured wood and marble, along with a serene colour palette of light greys, greens and honeyed gold. The spa’s luxurious facilities, meanwhile, have used the boutique space smartly and elegantly, presenting a renaissance for the senses in aptly named rooms: Altea (Healing), Elysia (Blissful), Maran (woman of the sea) and Oriane (soft and mild sound of water). Upstairs, past the relaxation area, guests will encounter three single treatment rooms (one of which has a healing Himalayan salt wall), one double room with a hydrotherapy bath and another that includes a vitality aroma sensation shower. Revolutionary technology allows water to be propelled through high pressure spouts, along with vitamin C and aromatherapy oils.
An extensive spa menu represents a combination of massage therapies and beauty treatments, together with treatments and journeys for the face and body. Camelot Spa Aurum is managed by Monique Lagorie.
New moves at Futurethis Dominique Wolf has been appointed marketing manager at Futurethis, the distributor of QMS Medicosmetics, Team Dr Joseph, Rites Skin Solutions and Skinny Green products. Wolf began her career in the magazine industry working for Cosmopolitan magazine. She says: “Having worked with beauty and fashion on the media side for years, as well as having a vested interest
in business and marketing, my move to Futurethis felt like a totally natural and logical career move. “I have known Renate Klass, the MD of Futurethis, for years on a personal and business level and have an enormous amount of respect for the people that make up the business and its strong ethics and values. So, I am very excited for my role as the new marketing manager and look forward to catapulting all
our brands into the limelight where they belong.”
Campaign to destigmatise peels launched In an innovative move, American medical skincare brand, PCA Skin, launched the first ever Annual National Skin Peel Day (10 March 2020), to educate consumers on the non-invasive, truly transformative skin treatment and share what a online @ probeauty.co.za
chemical peel can do for the health of one’s skin and various skin concerns. “We have found that there is a large number of people who avoid chemical peel treatments due to the misconceptions and misinformation that surround
it,” said Anish Agarwal, chief marketing officer at PCA SKIN. “Upon our 30th anniversary this year, we are committed to making people aware of peel treatments and their benefits so they can make it a part of their skincare regimen.”
9
Companies that have sponsored Donate-a-Loo toilets to date include Professional Beauty South Africa and Futurethis, with donations from a few salons, Eskel Jawitz and Charities Unlimited. In addition, Roatary New Dawn in Parkview has adopted the project and will give it their support. Says Phil Woods, commercial director of Professional Beauty South Africa: “We are hoping to motivate Professional Beauty UK to support the Donate-aLoo cause, as well as the UK Rotary Club.”
Waterless sanitation The Donate-a-Loo project centres on the Dry Sanitation
Toilet (i.e ‘Enviro Loo’), a dry, waterless sanitation system that requires no water. It is a permanent installation that doesn’t need expensive reticulation or sewerage infrastructure and is odourless under normal operating conditions. A single toilet costs R21,254.88; this includes site clearing, excavation, installation, building and labour cost, transportation and accessories for six units. Anyone wishing to sponsor a toilet, or make a donation, can email the Donate-a-Loo project team on donatealoo@ mweb.co.za.
NEWS IN PICTURES
Veteran, pioneering beauty industry professional, Helene Bramwell of The Mask in Parkview, Johannesburg, has launched the Donate-aLoo Schools Project to help alleviate South Africa’s severe sanitation issues in schools. Says Bramwell: “This cause is devoted to providing safe, reliable and decent sanitation as a means of restoring dignity. The Donate-a-Loo solution conserves water resources, requires no expensive reticulation or sewage treatment plant and comes with a maintenance plan for the recipient school. We look forward to rolling out this initiative to schools in South Africa and surrounding areas as and when we receive funding.” She reveals some frightening statistics relating to sanitation – in rural areas of developing countries, nine out of 10 people practice open defecation. “Every 20 seconds a child dies as a result of poor sanitation,” continues Bramwell. “Only a quarter of total water & sanitation funds are spent on sanitation. Some of the challenges we are facing in South Africa include schools that have no sanitation, or insufficient sanitation, or sanitation that is not fit for purpose (i.e. not age appropriate). Then there are those schools with pit toilets, which are dangerous as children can fall into them. Meanwhile, other schools have been provided with sanitation but have not yet demolished their pit toilets.” Bramwell notes that lack of access to proper toilets leads to all sorts of health problems, including contaminated drinking water. Every year 361,000 children under the age of five die due to diarrhea, which is linked to poor sanitation and contaminated water.
News
Bramwell launches Donate-a-Loo Schools project
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At the heart of the professional beauty industry...
Events 2020
Due to the recent announcement by the President, we are postponing the dates of our Cape Town and Durban events. New dates will be announced shortly. Professional Beauty Johannesburg is scheduled to take place on the 30th and 31st of August 2020, as this is outside the 3 month ban, we will obviously monitor the situation as it develops. Your one stop shop for education, business opportunities, networking, purchasing and growing your business
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Business Tips
11
ask
the EXPERTS
Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
What are the health and beauty benefits of silica? Demand for silica supplements is increasing, and current users have quickly become sworn converts, claiming that it will soon replace the much-lauded hydrolysed collagen as the go-to supplement for joints, skin, hair, nails, and many other beauty concerns. But what is this little-known mineral, and why is it anticipated to be the ‘next big thing’ on the health and beauty agenda since, well, coconut oil? Organic mineral silica plays a key role in the resilience of connective tissue, namely in cartilage and ligaments. The organic form of silica is a component of living tissue. In chemistry, ‘organic’ takes on a different meaning when used in connection to the mineral silica, referring to the silica found in mineral deposits that contains an additional carbon molecule, making it highly bioavailable. After the age of 30, your body’s natural levels start to decline. Clinical studies have revealed that silica supplementation can improve collagen type I synthesis; preserve blood vessel elasticity, promote synthesis of elastin, increase nail strength, and improve thickness of the hair fibre.
Bone formation and joint health Silica has been shown to speed up the healing of fractures and prevent new injuries. A study by the Centre Hospitalier de Toulon in France reported that silicon supplementation induced a significant increase in bone mineral density in women with osteoporosis. Furthermore, silica also shows promising results for general joint health; strengthening connective tissue and reducing pain, particularly in those suffering from conditions such as arthritis.
Cellular oxidation Silica reduces oxidation stress, resulting in the reduction of inflammation, while maintaining a balance of iron, copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium and calcium, and eliminating build-up of toxic levels of aluminium.
Beauty benefits Silica’s popularity is in no small part thanks to its ‘fountain of
youth’ effect. In one clinical trial, women were administered 5mg silicon for 150 days. The subsequent evaluation showed a 46-75% improvement in wrinkles, 40% less visible UV spots, and even a 50-54% increase in eyelash length.
Not all silica supplements are created equal When choosing a silica supplement, it is important to bear in mind that not all variants will offer the same bioavailability. Monomethylsilanetriol (MMST) and silicic acid (OSA) present the highest bioavailability. Given the significance of these findings – you can expect the demand for silica to continue to grow, and for very good reason. Zelda Warren is the MD of Alexia Rich, producer and supplier of Alexia Rich’s Orgono® Silica products. zelda@alexiarich.co.za
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Business Trends
12
Insider Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled beauty salons and spas in South Africa to track business in January 2020.
Insider Spa
Spa business was definitely up on the same time last year, albeit in most cases only slightly. A price increase at some spas did affect the prices and guest spend. One destination spa attributed its improved business to guests wanting to destress in January before the hectic faced-paced year began, and found the first two weeks of January (i.e. before schools opened) particularly busy. Other reasons cited for the increase included spa teams doing more add-on services and having more hotel guests as compared to January 2019. One spa with its own hair salon noted that hair services definitely contributed to improved revenue. Feedback regarding retail sales was quite mixed, with some seeing a marginal increase as compared to the same time last year, with others reporting a decrease, attributing this to guests needing to allocate money for annual school fees. In line with our annual male grooming trends report published in this issue of Professional Beauty (see page 23), we asked you which type of product was most popular with your male clients and the response was cleansers mostly, with mosturisers and exfoliators following behind. In terms of the most popular treatments for men, it was overwhelmingly massages, with pedicures fairly popular, and less so, facials.
Insider Salon
The majority of you (57%) reported that business in January 2020 was a tiny bit better than January 2019. Reasons cited were a left over influx from the holiday season, with clients wanting to take advantage of the holiday specials that some of you offered. Retail sales remained mostly the same, or a bit worse, as the same time last year, with only a small percentage of salons reporting a marginal increase in sales. While clients were willing to spend on treatments, most held back on buying products. Although most salons polle only have a small male clientele, the most popular treatments among men are facials, with the most sought after retail products being cleansers and moisturisers. PB
The month in numbers
SALON 50
SPA 68 AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
%
%
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2019?
82% BETTER
3% 15% SAME
WORSE
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2019?
57% 2% 41%
BETTER
SAME
WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2019?
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2019?
33%
25% 39% 36%
64% BETTER
3% SAME
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WORSE
BETTER
WORSE
SAME
CBD LOTION
Business Tips
14
Sustaining the sustainability trend
Brands have been making their products ‘clean’ for years but given the increase in social media and digital platforms, it is now the norm for brands to adhere to the sustainability trend to show that they are doing their part, writes LAUREN GIBSON.
T
he concept of sustainability is not a new focus within our economy or industry and given the increase in digital, there is now even more reason to adapt quickly if you are not shouting about your sustainability. However, environmental sustainability doesn’t mean having to give up your fancy skincare products and make-up spoils to rub mud on your face instead. It means being mindful of the products you are using, ensuring that you are aware of the consumption of resources, and aiming to reduce unnecessary waste.
High plastic usage According to an article published in Forbes Magazine in June 2019, the beauty industry is one of the biggest cosmetic players linked to high plastic usage due to packaging. In fact, Forbes states that 70% of the plastic in our industry is not recyclable. This sounds like a great business opportunity to me. I believe that this is an area in which the industry needs to be mindful, and that brands need to start thinking of new ways to change packaging and boxes for transport to ensure it is environmentally friendly.
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A small change in packaging, such as making products refillable, could not only lower the plastic uptake in the environment, but also lower carbon emissions by close to 70%.
Sourcing ingredients With regards to product development, brands need to ensure they are looking into where the ingredients in their products are sourced from. Can these be duplicated in a lab instead, or extracted naturally? I believe brands should start working on ‘green’ products with ‘green chemistry and innovation’.
Ethical beauty This is another major focus for many brands and, to be honest, something that should have been started since the inception of the products. It speaks to skincare, make-up and hair products that are free of animal-derived ingredients. Furthermore, ethical beauty means not testing products or ingredients on animals.
In many cases, this would mean such brands would not be allowed to be sold in China, as the Chinese government only allows products to be sold to its people if the products have been tested on animals. An add-on to ethical beauty is the rise in the vegan trend within our industry, but also within households. This isn’t a fad or something that is going to disappear. With the rise in veganism, brands need to start adjusting formulas to ensure they can proudly call themselves vegan friendly and showcase it on their vegan friendly packaging. Sustainability isn’t a oneorganisation job. It’s up to everyone. The government, the big corporates and brands, the people, and even what you do within your own home. Every action towards a greener world counts. PB Lauren Gibson has been in the health and skincare industry for over 10 years as well as in the IT and fashion industry. She has worked for Dermalogica for the last seven years as an educator, brand consultant and currently the regional manager for the Western and Eastern Cape. laureng@dermalogica.co.za
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Case Study
16
Hitting
right all the
notes The Body Orchestra practice in Blairgowrie, Randburg, offers an intriguing mix of facial treatments, NeuroLinguistic Programming and Dynamic Eating Psychology. JOANNA STERKOWICZ speakers to founder/owner, LOUISE PITOT, about her non-traditional approach.
B
ody Orchestra is, as its name suggests, about the whole body and mind working together in harmony. Founder Louise Pitot is well known to Gauteng stockists of the South African certified organic skincare brand, Esse, as she was the regional distributor for nine years and still uses the brand in her practice, describing herself as ‘an Esse girl’. As to what prompted the move from being a product distributor to opening a practice, Pitot says the journey goes back 15 years, when she was diagnosed with PCOS (Polycystic Ovary Syndrome) and infertility. “I felt like a failure as a woman,” she continues. “So I
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Mind-body nutrition looks at food and body issues as doorways to something deeper. Food challenges are the symptom. started to learn different modalities of healing and I changed what I put into my body. For me that meant becoming vegetarian and eating light and healing foods for a period. “Another reason that I changed my diet is because we absorb our personal care products into our bloodstream. So it was important for me to reduce my toxic load by using only certified natural or
organic products. I also changed what I put in my mind, because what you think about, you bring about, right? My doctor was surprised that my body healed itself.” Pitot realised that the body leans towards health and can heal itself if given the right tools. “I also realised there must be many women who had similar health challenges. So I studied nutrition and did an eight-month long NLP (Neurolinguistic Programming) training course. NLP is a fascinating modality that looks at how we each create and perceive our reality subjectively. It helped me to understand the mind and how it affects our ability to heal, grow and change,” she notes.
In 2017 Pitot was certified as an Eating Psychology Coach, which further instilled the mind-body connection. She is currently working towards her certification in Functional Medicine Coaching.
Guiding light Through her journey to health, Pitot realised that she really wanted to work with more women, to guide them through their own healing. So she felt the need to open her own practice. She’d worked in salons and spas early on in her career but never owned her own salon. “We are living longer and so we need to look at our health and longevity in a way that is useful long-term,” she comments. “It’s unrealistic to expect that going for regular facials without a healthy lifestyle will yield beautiful skin into old age. As women we receive up to 3,000 messages a day on how we should look, feel, act and be. No wonder women are already using anti-wrinkle injectable toxins preventatively from as early as their 20’s and 30’s! However, I believe there are no quick fixes. The way we live now will show itself in years to come. Looking at the client holistically can make the hugest change in their skin outcomes. “For example, if you experience a headache and simply take a tablet, you are not getting rid of the headache, you’re just blocking the pain receptors and possibly relieving some inflammation. The actual headache is still there. But, if you identify where the headache is coming from and you change that (e.g. too much caffeine, stress, poor eyesight etc), then you can stop the headaches instead. It’s the same with skin. If someone comes to me for facials and they have breakouts, lines or pigmentation, it’s important for me to help them find out where are these stemming from, so that they can work with a homeopath
NLP is a fascinating modality that looks at how we each create and perceive our reality subjectively. It helped me to understand the mind and how it affects our ability to heal, grow and change or functional medicine doctor to heal the cause, so that the symptom showing up on the skin can heal too. Other aspects that can help are reflexology, lymphatic drainage etc.”
Hormones A section of the Body Orchestra website is tagged ‘Balanced Hormones’ and Pitot admits to being fascinated by this topic. “Did you know that if we had to get rid of all our hormones, we’d be dead in 10 minutes? Because my journey started off with hormone issues, and because I’m in my mid 40’s, right
in the middle of peri-menopausal phase, I have noticed how balanced hormones can impact our skin, weight, sleep, relaxation, joy and so much more.”
Salon treatments Body Orchestra offers only facial treatments, each one being bespoke. States Pitot: “Most of my clients prefer a 75-minute ritual. In designing the treatments, I thought about what I wanted when I go for facials. I want the client to leave not only feeling like her skin has had a wonderfully active treatment, but I’d like her soul to feel relaxed too.” Pitot loves using active products that offer a visible improvement in the skin from the first treatment, and she also enjoys light therapy. “However, the two aspects that have shown up as most effective in my treatments are facial cupping and gua sha. Both these modalities stem from ancient Chinese practices and use the facial meridians, >
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Case Study
17
18 Case Study
our food we were good. It is only natural that we are emotional eaters. What’s useful about that knowledge is to understand how we are using food to suppress certain emotions. “Mind-body nutrition looks at food and body issues as doorways to something deeper. Food challenges are the symptom, just like the headaches we spoke about earlier. Once we go through the door and work on something deeper – i.e. the cause – we can resolve some of our food and body issues. So again it’s looking at my clients holistically,” states Pitot.
Focus on community as well as lymphatic stimulation and drainage. When done on the face, gua sha can reduce fine lines and wrinkles, restore firmness and elasticity, promote a brighter complexion, relieve jaw tension, promote lymphatic drainage, and decrease puffiness. “I enjoy using face cupping to stimulate the body’s organs. By utilising Chinese face reading, we can identify a sluggish organ in the body through its corresponding area on the face and body. It’s great for cleansing and stimulating the skin, as well as for lifting and drainage. Often I will use both cupping and gua sha in the same treatment, depending on the skin in that moment.”
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“I now import my own rose quartz gua sha tools and silicone face cups which include the tiny cup for eyes and lips. I also import dry skin brushes as this has been my staple self-care ritual for over 15 years.”
Eating psychology Body Orchestra offers Dynamic Eating Psychology, which Pitot describes thus: “This psychology says that what we eat is only half the story. The other half is all about who we are as eaters, and how we eat. Think about it, we’ve been programmed from birth to use food as a pacifier. As babies when we cried, we were given the breast or bottle, dummy or teething biscuit. We were told that if we ate all
At Body Orchestra Pitot encourages clients to become part of what she calls ‘the tribe’. “In the past there has been a lot of competition between women,” explains Pitot. “Secretly we didn’t want others to succeed as well as we did. There’s a shift now, in that women are starting to realise that there’s enough out there for us all. We can all shine in our own way in our lives, businesses and ventures. When we support and uplift each other, then all women win, right? “Community is more important now than ever. We’ve lost that somewhat. It’s so satisfying to end a workshop and see the women all feel supported by each other and the process. “My whole practice is about supporting and empowering women in their femininity, in their awakening and realisation that they are whole and lovable and worthy.” PB
AFRICA CONVENTION GALLAGHER CONVENTION CENTRE 30 – 31 AUGUST 2020
FIND THE RESOLUTIONS YOU NEED FOR YOUR SPA Two days of thought provoking topics and discussion, the first day is all about treatment innovation and the second day focuses on business, with great ideas on the next steps for your business. DAY 1:
Wellness Innovation - The Way Forward
– How to build wellness experiences
in your spa – What’s trending in the global spa
& wellness sector right now
– New concepts & treatments
– Implementing sustainability
DAY 2:
Business Intelligence
– Turning your spa into a
profitable retail space
– The 7 habits of highly
effective spa managers
– Therapist retention & motivation
– What experienced spa operators wish
they knew at the start of their careers
Book now at www.probeauty.co.za
Spa Focus
20
The
rebirth of
Feather Hill
After extensive property renovations that took almost three years to complete, The Feather Hill Wellness and Retreat Spa in North West Province opened for business early in 2020. JOANNA STERKOWICZ gets the inside track.
F
eather Hill, a boutique hotel and wedding venue in Potchefstroom, has been in existence since 2008 and undergone several transitions during that time. Says spa director Lionel Weingartz: “When the ownership of the entire property changed,
online @ probeauty.co.za
It is important to us to ensure that our guests have an easy, professional and enjoyable experience right from the start.
the new owners had a bigger vision to ensure that the spa be part of a destination getaway and wedding venue. This was an opportunity to blow new life back into this spa oasis. As such, the upgrades and refurbishments were done to suit the latest trends and to offer the best facilities to guests.�
He explains that alongside the upgrade, a new brand was established – The Feather Hill – offering a world class spa, boutique hotel, wedding and conference venue, and restaurant. The resort is situated on the edge of a hill with unlimited views, surrounded by Sugar Bush trees and un-spoilt scenery. The owners of the spa are Russell du Preez and Dr Hannes Jonker, who are co-shareholders with three others in The Feather Hill property.
What changed?
Spa at a glance Owners: Russell du Preez and Dr Hannes Jonker Spa Director: Lionel Weingartz Number of therapists: Six Number of treatment rooms: Six (two couples’ rooms and four single rooms) Hydro facilities: Sauna, steam room, rasul, heated indoor swimming pool Brands: In-house brand specially manufactured by The Feather Hill
While the main structure of the spa’s building stayed the same, its overall interior had to transform. Interior designer Ettienne Hannekom was tasked to change the existing classic Tuscan feel to a modern and tranquil tropical day spa style. Weingartz continues: “The renovations did take a long time but believe me, it was worth the wait. This refurbishment includes the full package – from the hotel to the wedding venue, spa, bridal dressing room and other venues for special events. “We decided not to operate the spa during the refurbishment process as we didn’t want to spoil the surprise of the spa’s new look, and because we wanted to ensure a magnificent guest experience. So we wanted to be ready to deliver on our promise before opening our doors again. “The treatment menu was overhauled after conducting market research on what guests in our immediate surroundings would like, as well as what the Johannesburg market that travels
to experience the ultimate ‘breakaway’ over weekends would want.”
Unique selling points In discussing the spa’s USPs (unique selling points), Weingartz emphasises that The Feather Hill doesn’t sell a spa treatment, but rather an experience. “With any spa booking made, you are our guest for the day. We encourage guests to come early in the morning to soak up as much of The Feather Hill as possible before or after their relaxing spa treatment. “The spa uses an online booking system to enable guests to manage their bookings and choose their therapist. It is important to us to ensure that our guests have an easy, professional and enjoyable experience right from the start. Every interaction matters and adds to the journey we aim to offer,” he comments. >
This was an opportunity to blow new life back into this spa oasis. As such, the upgrades and refurbishments were done to suit the latest trends and to offer the best facilities to guests.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Spa Focus
21
Spa Focus
22
The Feather Hill Signature Ritual is a spa package that is designed to treat guests with every spa facility possible so that they can experience the entire spa. On arrival, guests are served beverages and refreshments and then invited to change into plush spa robes and slippers. Their therapists guide them to the sauna, steam room and indoor
online @ probeauty.co.za
heated swimming pool, to start the journey of relaxation. This commences with a full body hot stone massage, followed by a relaxation facial. The next treat is a Perfect Pedi Foot Peel Treatment, overlooking the breathtaking view. A relaxing Indian Head Massage completes this phase of the journey before guests receive a full body mud treatment in the rasul. Following these treats, guests can feast on a delicious light lunch, or platter, with sparkling wine. Says Weingartz: “While retail products are available, we don’t believe that spa relaxation is about retail, it’s about treating our guests to an unforgettable experience.”
Target markets He believes that the new spa’s offering is a welcome alternative for Women’s Day events, secretary days and top executive strategic sessions. “This is especially considering the surrounding industries and businesses who need to look after staff wellbeing and special events. “We also foresee that tourists will add a visit to the spa to their itinerary and together with other tourist attractions in the North West, we can offer another memorable experience to their travel stories,” concludes Weingartz. A Kiddies’ Package, which is targeted at children’s birthday parties, is also available at the spa. PB
23
It’s raining
Male Grooming
men!
As has been the trend for the past few years, the number of South African men opting for professional grooming services is on the increase, with more male clients than ever before, as well as more male salons targeted at this demographic, writes JOANNA STERKOWICZ.
C
onsider that it was back in 2014 that South African beauty salon chain, Sorbet, opened its first ever Sorbet Man store (in Sandton City) and that there are now a whopping 24 stores in the country. This incredible increase in the number of Sorbet Man franchises reflects the expanding demand for male grooming services. Says Glen Summers, who heads up the Sorbet Man division: “We opened three stores last year alone, with the most recent being in Canal Walk, Cape Town. I believe that South African men have most definitely evolved over recent years and have developed more of an understanding of what it means to look good. “For some gents, it is a necessity to have your grooming done by a professional and that is where Sorbet Man comes in. We are a ‘destination’ of sorts, where guys feel comfortable and at ease with their barber or therapist. I see it every day in store where gents take time out to look after themselves. It is sometimes not only about the grooming but about the feeling you get before and after your treatment.” A multiple Professional Beauty Award Winner, Hines and Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge in Parktown North, Johannesburg, opened in December 2015.
Says co-founder Jared Hines: “Other branches of Hines & Harley are most definitely in the works. I am hoping that things progress as they are doing now and that there will be some be new Hines
and Harleys opening in the near future.” Sonette Donker of Skin iD (Skin Intellectual Data) in Sandton, notes that about 40% of her clientele is male. “They are normally the boyfriends or husbands of my female clients,” she explains. “My younger male clients are more into deep cleansing and light peels, whereas those in their mid-twenties and older like the anti-ageing light peels and micro-needling.” Tzvia Hermann, founder and owner of The Laser Beautique franchise, notes that they have always offered men’s treatments. “When we first opened in 2009, our first client was, in fact, a man and we lasered his back. It’s now become more acceptable – and even expected – for a man to groom. This is why we are seeing an increase in men investing in themselves. The majority of our male clients range from the teens all the way up to the 50-somethings. “It’s true though that most of our clients are women and they are starting to encourage their husbands, brothers and sons to groom. Men are even starting to have what The Laser Beautique calls a ‘man-icure’ and the men’s pedicure.” > online @ probeauty.co.za
24
25 Hermann emphasises that men need to feel comfortable when walking into a salon offering men’s treatments. She continues: “Our industry is mostly run by women for women. We can’t expect a man to walk into a pretty, all pink-and-purple environment and feel like a man. This is why more and more salons such as Sorbet Man are opening. Being gender neutral is important if you are catering for men. “Woman need to encourage, and allow, men to feel ok about looking after their skin and body. If women are expected to groom and make themselves more appealing to men’s eyes, why shouldn’t men? It’s up to woman to motivate why men should groom.”
Popular treatments South African men continue to favour the beard trend. Says Hines: “The beard phase was just about starting when we opened Hines and Harley and it has continued to be a favourite for the guys.” Summers confirms the popularity of beards. He continues: “They are definitely still a thing. Some gents find a
beard hard to maintain, but facial hair is still very much on trend.” Both Hines and Harley and Sorbet Man have found that waxing hair removal has grown in demand. “Waxing has also become very trendy and guys these days are not afraid of hair removal,” comments Summers. “More and more men are coming in for waxing, whether it’s removing the hair on your back or tidying up your eyebrows. Waxing is no longer frowned upon.” “Many men suffer from unwanted, unsightly hair, from monobrows to hairy fingers, toes, nose and backs,” notes Hermann. Hines adds: “We have also seen a big increase in male waxing – the most popular areas being the back and the Hollywood zone. “While barbering services account for 70% of our business, spa treatments are steadily on the increase, which is good to see. However, we find that men complain a lot about time, so the full body massage is difficult for a lot of them. Having said that, back, neck, shoulder and head massages have increased slightly.”
Male Grooming
Conducive environment
Skincare concerns South African men have definitely developed more of an interest in looking after their skin. States Hermann: “Our men’s facials and men’s products are proving pretty popular with our male clientele. Acne and ‘backne’ (i.e. pimples on the back) are a big concern for The Laser Beautique’s male clients, along with congested skin and blackheads.” Most of Hines and Harley’s clients are interested in skincare in one form or another. Hines continues: “Some of our clients are more interested than others, but men are definitely becoming >
online @ probeauty.co.za
26 Male Grooming
Sorbet Man also reviews its menu every year. “In fact, we have added extra items in these reviews, such as the Steam Shave, which really helps with dehydrated skins and also provides a luxurious shave experience,” comments Summers.
Demographics
more interested in skincare and skin protection. In fact, we’ve noted an increased demand for facial treatments over the past year. We offer an express facial treatment, which has become very popular and this leads our clients to eventually have a proper, full facial. It is gaining popularity every month. “Our clients’ biggest skincare concerns are acne – mainly from ingrown hairs – and also dry and dehydrated skin. Ageing skin doesn’t seem to be a major concern for men.” Summers notes that skincare treatments are on the rise and becoming more and more common among guys. “More men are investing in skincare than ever before. It is incredible to see young guys taking an interest in skincare and their own skin’s health. Finding the right product for your skin goes a long way and it is very interesting to see and hear that guys are
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passionate about sun care and issues that are going to affect their skin in the long run. It is never too late to start looking after your skin! “Facials can be very addictive if one understands the benefits they can provide for your skin. It’s all about educating the guest on what is good for their needs.” Donker’s male clients’ main skin concerns are breakouts, congestion, ageing, scarring (acne when younger), and pigmentation.
Donker has observed that there are definitely more males in their 20s and over having professional treatments. “The age of my male clients varies from the teens up to the 50s.” Hines reveals that his salon’s main age group is between 25 and 50. “But we have some little gents as young as three that come to us.”
Reviewing treatment menus The Hines and Harley team reviews its treatment menu on an annual basis. “We are always looking at what is popular and what is not, and whether our pricing is correct. I keep a close eye on any additional treatments coming into the market, or pay attention to something that our clients request and we change the menu accordingly.”
According to Summers, Sorbet Man speaks to males of all age groups – from young varsity gents right up to the older generation of men who feel the need to keep grooming. “Our ‘Dad and Dudes’ combo has always proved to be a great hit. This is the perfect way for fathers to spend time with their son/s as it teaches them the importance of grooming at a young age. Also, a plus side is that they get to have haircuts by professional barbers. I remember when I was a boy and going to the barbershop on a Saturday, it was a great way for my dad and I to spend time together,” he concludes. PB
27 Male Grooming
Be your
man own
With the growth of the male grooming sector comes the increase in the number of men-specific products and brands. Here are just some of the high end products in the market.
Versatile gel The Masculinity Hair & Shower Gel from Beauté Pacifique is a 2-in-1 product composed of ingredients that cleanse the skin and refresh the hair, without causing dryness. Suitable for all skin and hair types, the gel leaves the skin cleansed and softened. Ingredients include glycerin and beta vulgaris (beet) root extract.
073 053 8830
Beard beauty Local men’s brand, Red Dane, recently launched its Signature Beard Elixir. This luxurious beard oil, handcrafted in small batches, uses 100% natural and organic African botanical oils for moisturising, nourishing, conditioning, protecting and beard growth benefits. It was developed together with top South African barbers.
084 744 2906
It’s all in the numbers SIX MAN is ideal for the get-up and go-getter and has highly active ingredients to target men’s skincare problems such as razor burn, skin irritations, razor bumps, shaving irritations, sensitive skins and anti-ageing. The range includes three unique products which are all two-in-one products.
011 312 7840
Gentlemen only A great way to experience Gentlemen’s Tonic products is through the brand’s Ultimate Gift Set. This elegant collection set contains a perfect combination of Gentelmen’s Tonic best-selling products and is combined with Gentlemen’s Tonic popular luxury shaving range.
021 863 0373 online @ probeauty.co.za
Skincare
28
CLEAN
beauty
Ethics, accountability and sustainability have become hot topics in the skincare industry, as consumers demand more transparency regarding the sourcing of ingredients and the environmental impact thereof, as well as in the manufacturing, testing and packaging of products. JOANNA STERKOWICZ delves deep into the topic.
Natural Many skincare products in the beauty stratosphere claim to be ‘natural’, but there are currently no South Africa regulations stipulating conditions for a product to officially qualify as ‘natural’. Although some products from local brand, Kalahari, only contain natural ingredients, most of its products are a combination of superior-grade botanical oils and exceptional plant extracts, compounded together with
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scientifically-proven ingredients sourced from well-known, international laboratories. Says Kalahari founder, Carina Franck: “This ensures that we have highly effective and innovative formulations. Interestingly enough, according to the EU legislation, if a product contains more than 65% of natural ingredients, it is classified as a ‘Natural Product’, so technically we fall under the ‘natural’ category. We simply
believe that we cannot promote our complete range as 100% natural if we are just partially natural. Kalahari always aims to remain a true and trusted brand.” Another South African brand, the recently launched Gève, was developed by consultant herbologist, Jerome Jackson, and aromatherapist, Aseyah Rosslind, and positioned as being ‘truly natural or as natural as possible’. Says Jackson: “Gève has been developed by using only natural ingredients vetted to the highest standards. The products are manufactured in South Africa using local expertise. As much of the ingredients are sourced from South Africa as possible and we look for actives from South Africa first.
“The brand has been developed as skin food. We believe that if it’s not good enough to be eaten, it should not go onto your skin. Rich in vitamins, minerals and botanical actives, Gève addresses many skin issues exacerbated by our modern lifestyle. The line is particularly rich in natural pro vitamin A and carotenoids, which accounts for its superb skin healing properties. Hyaluronic acid helps to keep the skin supple and hydrated. We employ plant actives that have been shown to be of only a few that are active in the hypodermis. Our products are over 95% natural and contain no harmful additives.” Dr Hauschka is a longestablished, natural cosmetics brand under the umbrella of WALA Heilmittel GmbH, which has been producing 100% authentic, effective natural cosmetics for over 50 years. The raw ingredients in these products, which are certified according to the international NATRUE standard, are meticulously selected. Where possible, they are grown using biodynamic methods in the brand’s own medicinal plant garden, or on its own Demeter farm. Cultivation comes in part from wild collections in the Swabian Jura Mountains and in part from sustainable organic cultivation projects worldwide.
Skincare
29
vegan-friendly skincare options and does not test on animals, nor is animal testing involved in any process. Says the brand’s Ursula Volbrecht: “We source the active ingredient, CBD (Cannabidiol), manufactured from organically grown hemp in Switzerland. DermaFix incorporates this exceptional ingredient within the formulation of DermaFix CBD Lotion. With
and sea buckthorn. These are described as ‘Nordic Superfruits’. The brand has many other vegan products to choose from, including best-sellers such as Tyrostase, Submersive Serum Paradoxe, Stay Beautiful SPF 30 and Deep Pore Cleansing Mask. Beauté Pacifique’s vegan products are all free from honey, beeswax, propolis, lanolin, collagen, albumen and carmine,
its vast benefits for a variety of skin care concerns, DermaFix CBD Lotion is a must-have for all skin types. It is manufactured to GMP [Good Manufacturing Practice] standards and contains the purest CBD, tested to be THC Free”. DermaFix also makes use of the multi-functional ingredient, Organic Hemp Seed Oil, within various formulations such as the DermaFix ACC Retinol + and DermaFix DermaPrep Pre-Cleanse.
among others. New African luxury skincare brand, Afrakari, comprises mostly vegan products, as well as two vegetarian creams.
Vegan Although the term ‘vegan’ is not yet officially regulated, it is understood to mean cosmetics that contain no animal products, by-products or derivatives such as beeswax, honey or lanolin, for example. DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care offers a wide variety of
Danish medical skincare brand, Beauté Pacifiqué, believes green, natural or plant-based cosmetics provide food for the skin. The brand has developed a unique transporting method in the form of its Squalane capsule, which comes from green olives in Spain. Beauté Pacifique’s Superfruit line for young skins is a proudly vegan skincare range. Superfood nutrition ingredients include green tea, phloretin (apple tree leaves), lingonstem from the lingonberry, cloudberry, birch
Organic Trevor Steyn, founder of South Africa’s first certified organic skincare brand, Esse, explains the term ‘organic’. He says “In food, organic refers to the manner in which an ingredient is agriculturally produced i.e. without pesticides, fungicides or GMO and without synthetic fertilisers. In skincare, an organic claim refers to the ‘clean’ status of all the ingredients in a formulation, as well as to the organic farming techniques that are used in the production of the bulk of the ingredients. The standards cover packaging materials also. “Organic certification is a lengthy and costly process, as all formulations are cleared at the point of development. There is a long list of criteria that need to be met, including the safety of packaging components and manufacture processes. Following formulation, to remain certified, an audit is conducted twice a year that cross-checks certified organic raw material purchases with production quantities. > online @ probeauty.co.za
Skincare
30 For Esse, this means that Ecocert sends an auditor to our facilities twice a year. Manufacture processes, right down to the cleaning products used in the production facility, are a part of the check list. “All of the major organic certifiers have aligned their requirements and now audit to a single set of standards that are referred to as COSMOS. All of the Esse products formulated over the last three years are compliant with the COSMOS standards.” Italian certified organic brand, Team Dr. Joseph, sources ingredients from its own herbary in South Tirol. Says the team: “It is one of our key concerns to capture our brand’s diversity and creativity as gently as possible. The herbary plays an important role in this; it documents and illustrates the plant kingdom and in so doing, illustrates the beauty of nature in a particularly fine, artistic and scientific manner. “Learning from nature means learning something new every day. The secret to our product development work is not only curiosity, but fascination as well. If you deal with plants every day, you will be quickly humbled by their structure, soul and active substances. Even the most expensive laboratory in the world cannot keep up with the intelligence of a plant. There is always a touch of awe in the air when we work with nature.”
Sustainability Esse exceeds the requirements of the COSMOS standards and, in many cases, imposes its own ethics on packaging and sourcing practices. This includes fair trade practices, vegan online @ probeauty.co.za
certification and cruelty-free compliance. Esse also offsets all of its carbon emissions, so that it is carbon neutral as a company. In 2015, South African, Denise Bierman, created a cream for herself as she was disillusioned by the various chemicals in mainstream skincare products. A year later she started to give the cream away as gifts.
Afrakari uses premium ingredients that are ethically sourced, sustainably harvested and that support local conservation and community empowerment programmes. For example, wild and handharvested Cape Kelp from near Cape Agulhas is sustainably harvested to maintain the longterm existence of the species
“People came back to me saying that they loved the product as it really made an impact on their skin and so Fontis Skinfood was born. “The variety of raw materials used in my products offers the possibility for a wider range of raw material suppliers, i.e. small scale farmers and even larger ones, who, when they meet the Fontis Skinfood standard, can supply their products, thereby changing their lives and the lives of the people in their community. “Sustainability is important and by getting to know the farmers, I can also get a sense of their vision and plans for looking after the environment and their processes and philosophy in the way they treat the raw materials they supply to Fontis Skinfood,” explains Bierman.
and its role in the ecosystem. This empowers the local coastal community with sustainable employment and stimulates their local economy. Furthermore, through efficient utilisation of the raw material, the entire biomass of the kelp is used, resulting in nearly zero percent waste, and requiring very little to no waste management.
Cruelty-free Animal testing of cosmetics and raw materials for cosmetics is banned in many countries around the world. Environ Skin Care fully supports the legislation that bans animal testing and encourages the industry to use alternative testing methods. Says Environ’s Gayle Pullen: “We have always and will
continue to only test our range of skincare products on our panel of human trialists. In addition, we do not do animal testing on raw materials or any of the products. “While we have an extensive vegan product listing, there are a few products that contain ingredients that are sourced from an animal source. “Mild Day moisturiser contains Beta-Carotene, which is absorbed onto gelatin as it is very potent on its own. Gelatin is derived from fish scales and is an incidental ingredient, not intentionally added to the finished products.” Pullen notes that Environ uses three animal derived products in a few selected products. Colostrum is harvested after a cow has calved and only once the calf has consumed their first fill. The cow is then milked to obtain the remainder of the 1st Milking colostrum, which is processed and freeze dried. High quality grade medical lanolin is used for intense moisturisation in only a few products. “We try to select RSPO derived raw materials from suppliers as far as possible, which promotes sustainability,” says Pullen. South African brand, RégimA, has always maintained the highest ethical standards with regards to being cruelty-free, never testing on animals, never using any animal derived ingredients, and never dealing with any companies or countries that have used animals for testing. Says Jacqui Faucitt: “All our products are EU (and FDA) registered – these are the highest standards in the world. We have always only ever tested on human volunteers.
Skincare
31
Packaging
“RégimA utilises new technology where many active ingredients are synthesised with the aid of biological engineering of plants. Being environmentally conscious, we never use any plants or algae that are under threat.” Another South African brand, Placecol, is also not tested on animals. All its products are also free of parabens and palm oil. Gève is very opposed to the animal testing of cosmetics to the point that it will never enter the Chinese market, due to its mandatory animal testing stance. All Beautè Pacifique’s products are completed in compliance with EU Regulation EC 1223/2009 and its amendments and therefore are not tested on animals.
DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care is continually striving to make more environmentally friendly choices, and as such make use of recyclable product packaging, moving away from excessive use of unnecessary packaging and has changed over to reusable bags for consumer purchases. Matis is currently under a massive packaging and formulation revamp to become cleaner and greener. Its new formulation chart will exclude: parabens, cyclic silicones, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, methylisothiazolinone, BHA/BHT, aluminum salts, phthalates, lyral, lilial, PEG/PPG, mineral oils, palm oils, gluten, wheat derivatives, soybean, and SLS. Packaging has also been chosen to select the best materials for the preservation of its formulas, thus avoiding an excess of preservatives. Materials for packaging are also being sourced as locally as possible in order to limit the carbon footprint. PB
online @ probeauty.co.za
Don’t miss out on South Africa’s Biggest Hair Expo!
• Fantastic range of exhibitors • New product launches • Live stages • Demonstrations • EOHCB Hair Competition and so much more
30-31 August 2020, Gallagher Convention Centre Johannesburg Co located with Professional Beauty Expo
www.saloninternational.co.za
33 Hair news
Crowning GLORY
Tress-a-licious news from the hair front
Colour accessories Twincare is now the official distributor of Framar, the next generation in colour accessories. Framar designs and develops hair colouring tools, heavily influenced by current trends and stylists. Products include colouring brushes, foil, pop-up sheets, backwards bib, disposable nitrile gloves and foil alternatives, including mesh strips and clear film.
011 305 1600
Abracadabra! Genie in a Bottle is a hair growth potion that was created to help thinning, falling, breaking or balding hair. It restores your hairline, while strengthening and lengthening your hair. The more often you use it, the better the result. It will only work if you have roots, baby hairs or follicles.
084 330 0005
Raw shades
Pearly shampoo
IGORA Royal from Schwarzkopf Professional has launched it Raw Essentials collection. Cedar has two offerings in a 7 and 5 level, with a reflection of ash and cendre tones, while Clay has two offerings in a 6 and 5 level, with a reflection of cendre and chocolate tones. This collection is also available in the demi range – Vibrance.
Biosense Gold Shampoo was created with an extra pearly texture and is SLES free, as well as enriched with special actives. It has a slightly acid pH, which helps to close the hair cuticle for long lasting shining colour and protection. The shampoo has a high conditioning power thanks to the addition of guar gum and poliquaternium 10.
011 617 2614
011 305 1600
online @ probeauty.co.za
Hair
34
Angela Smith Talking to…
We talk to ANGELA SMITH, PPS Manager, Henkel Beauty Care about her passion for colour and how Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks style book influences the industry. To start with, please tell us a bit about yourself. I have been in the industry for 23 years and have been a technical trainer for a decade. As such, I thrive on educating stylists, particularly on guiding them on growth and increasing their turnover. My belief is that if you have the knowledge, you will have the confidence, and if you have both, you will make money. I live for my brand and have a true belief in my company. In addition, I love learning from stylists. My blood is black!
Why are you so passionate about colour? Colour is where we can truly unleash our creativity. I find colour consulting so exciting and seeing our guests’ faces when we transform their hair is priceless for me. Colour is where we make money. I love the trust that guests have in me to transform them – it makes everything worth it. Mixing and experimenting with colour is my true happy place and learning from our mistakes is what being a stylist is all about. Colour opens a world of beautiful inspiration – it provides the chance to imagine, contrast, create and transform. online @ probeauty.co.za
What is Essential Looks? Essential Looks is a collection that we launch twice a year based on seasonal trends. It truly motivates stylists and offers a platform for them to transform and create. I have been exposed to many collections and when I share the learnings that I receive, it’s amazing to see how every stylist adds their own flare to it. Essential Looks is very trendoriented. What fascinates me is that the creators of Essential Looks get inspiration from the leading catwalks in the world, interpreting those trends into a hair collection. There is a split in every collection from catwalk to salon looks and there is always something for everybody. Mind blown!
How do salons use Essential Looks? Salons use Essential Looks as a consultation tool to guide their guests with the latest trends. Our guests are always looking for hot new ideas; these are available at their fingertips. Essential Looks gets stylists excited about sharing the latest trends. They can use the House
of Colour app or go straight to the Essential Looks website, if they prefer a more digital spin while consulting. As a salon owner, I would strongly encourage stylists to use Essential Looks! This will enhance the image of your business, showing that you are ahead of the trends.
What do you love about the Creating Tomorrow’s Colour Today Collection? I love the diversity of a new world order of self-expression. This collection is all about colour and an amazing look into our latest line extension for IGORA Royal. We have launched the hottest colour combinations with this collection, for every stylist’s dreams, namely Raw Essentials. Never before have we had these ashy and earthy tones and I know the stylists are going to love them. Cedar has two offerings in a 7 and 5 level with a reflection of ash and cendre tones, while Clay has two offerings in a 6 and 5 level with a reflection of cendre and chocolate tones. And they are also available in Vibrance, our demi range. I am so excited about this collection! PB
Hair
35
The Essential Looks Collection...
online @ probeauty.co.za
Salon Focus
36
‘Suite’ THE
LIFE
Just over a year old, the innovative Terenzo Suites concept in Dunkeld, Johannesburg, was created to offer a platform for stylists who want to run their own businesses. JOANNA STERKOWICZ speaks to founder/ owner, TERENCE JANSEN VAN VUUREN, to find out more.
S
ituated at 26 Bompas, Terenzo Suites is slap bang in the middle of Johannesburg’s affluent Northern Suburbs and the upmarket feel of the complex is immediately apparent, with full length glass windows, marble floors and chandeliers.
With Terenzo Suites, stylists can start their own business straight away in a seamless process, as every suite is already completely outfitted and equipped. Stylists literally need only a client base and a credit card machine. What is essentially a precinct of independent hair salons, Terenzo Suites is the brainchild of Terence Jansen Van Vuuren, an international performing artist, L’Oréal Colour Trophy winner, and L’Oréal Colour Ambassador. Says Jansen Van Vuuren: “Terenzo Suites is a completely unique concept in South Africa and I describe it as ‘the Uber
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of hairdressing’ in that it is a totally new way for stylists to do business. My inspiration came from the realisation that most stylists who are employed at salons are looking for something more and want to work for themselves. “With Terenzo Suites, stylists can start their own business
straight away in a seamless process, as every suite is already completely outfitted and equipped. Stylists literally need only a client base and a credit card machine. Each suite has basins, plumbing, plug points, Wifi, a fridge, coffee machine, music system, pre-paid electricity meter, reception desk and retail space. Toilets, parking and security are all included, so the suite owner literally just pays their rent. They are welcome to hire their own staff as long as it’s not on a rent-a-chair basis – it must be either salary or commission based.” There is a large area downstairs in the complex that houses several communal reclining beds and basins, should any suite owner find that they need an extra basin for clients at any particular time. Terenzo Suites also has its own generator – something that is vitally important in this dark era of frequent load shedding.
Branding Terenzo Suites comprises 13 individual suites, including Jansen Van Vuuren’s own suite. Each suite owner has their own branding, which is displayed within the Terenzo Suites logo on their door. Some of the upstairs suites even have their own wooden deck. “I’m very proud that we have just signed our first-ever ethnic hair suite – Hair by Twinz – run by two stylist sisters who are very well known in the industry,” he notes. “That’s another important aspect about Terenzo Suites – the suite owners all have their own particular specialities, so they are able to cross-refer clients within the complex. “We even cater for clients’ skincare and anti-ageing needs, as one of the suites is occupied by Dr Nadia Dannhauser’s For Beautiful Life aesthetic practice.”
Expansion The Terenzo Suites concept has proved so successful that a new suite was recently added to the
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complex, to accommodate an existing suite owner who wanted to grow his business and needed a bigger space in which to offer nails as well as hair. In addition, Jansen Van Vuuren is renovating the back garden of the property to create a luxurious, partially covered outdoor relaxation area for clients, as well as a designated space for the staff of the various suites in which to take their tea and lunch breaks. This area will include a small pool and four outdoor hairdressing stations for stylists to perform Brazilian blowouts.
Advantages In outlining the many advantages of the Terenzo Suites concept for independent stylists, Jansen Van Vuuren points out that suite owners don’t have to invest a huge amount of money upfront before starting their businesses. He continues: “If you are opening up your own salon, you would need to spend hundreds of thousands of rands on outfitting and equipping the salon and your landlord would probably demand a double deposit, as well as the first month’s rent up front. At Terenzo Suites you just pay the rent. “The beauty for suite owners is that they can work according to their own preferred hours and at their own pace. Stylists earn more money and are able to build up their unique brands. In turn, clients benefit from this focused attention in a RollsRoyce space, so they are getting more for their money.” Stylists are able to purchase L’Orèal and Redken stock from Terenzo Suites at cost price.
They are, however, free to use other reputable professional brands, should they so wish.
Criteria Jansen Van Vuuren’s only requirement to qualify as a Terenzo Suite owner is that the stylist be successful, as he only wants quality hairdressers working in the complex. “I’m very well entrenched in the industry so it will come to my attention whether a stylist is suitable or not. We have different types of leases available, from one to five years. “Terenzo Suites is a massive operation but still exudes a high end, exclusive boutique feel. This concept doesn’t exist anywhere in Africa. In America there are similar concepts, but they only have one chair per suite. “If there are any stylists out there interested in starting their own businesses, they are welcome to call me on 083 660 5615, or my PA, Kim Khalil on 083 602 6782,” concludes Jansen Van Vuuren. PB
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HSOTY
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Victory LAP
Winner of Twincare International’s Hairstylist of the Year (HSOTY) Award, RAEESA DAWOOD, tells Salon International how she went about creating her triumphant looks.
T
his was my first HSOTY. By participating in awards events within your industry, you show your clients and your colleagues that you are passionate and committed to your career. It’s about stepping outside the box and getting your brand out into the market. One should immerse oneself in the industry, as each hairstylist has something valuable to showcase and share.
‘Silk Road’ HSOTY was the first competition I’d entered as a solo stylist since opening my own salon in 2019. Twincare gave us criteria to enter models and to showcase our own capsule of hair. Given my own roots and passion for Middle Eastern and Indian women’s hair, I thought that the ‘Silk Road’ theme would capture my skillset best, especially with regard to the texture of the hair and the techniques used. Arab and Indian women have seen their hair as a symbol of beauty for centuries. They focus so much on
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The hairstyles the quality and texture of their hair. And this is what I wanted to bring to the show. Creating looks for me is far more than styling or colouring hair that becomes something to gaze at and then move on. To me, hair is a living work of art that should inspire beauty every day. When I decided on the Silk Road theme, I thought of women across the Arab and Indian peninsula, with hair like silk, traditional beauty and natural movement capturing the very essence of the hair styles I wanted to create.
It took me between three to four hours to create the looks for each model. For all the hairstyles, I washed their hair and used a Biosense leave-in treatment, as well as L’Oréal Mythic Oil to create the shine and sleek texture the ‘Silk Road’ theme was meant to capture. While colours are an important part of the show, I believe that hair texture is just as important and this is why I always focus on texture and colour as a combined effort on any hairstyle I create in my salon.
The technique: Balayage colouring technique with Color Sense colours. Hair was pre-lightened with L’ Oréal Professional | Smart Bond. I cut round layers into her hair and styled it by blow waving her hair our straight, then curled it with a GlamPalm curling wand. I then brushed out the curls to create her look.
quality of the hair was managed first. Prior to the show, the model was brought in for a series of treatments on her hair to ensure the texture of the ponytail was sleek for the show. Hair was styled with a GlamPalm straightener.
1 Look 1 Model: Micaela Govender About the look: This look was my way of showcasing the on-trend, backwash balayage. Created by a painter, this signature colouring technique is a firm favourite of mine. The technique: Her hair was coloured a Color Sense Chocolate Brown with a backwash balayage. The hair was cut into a blunt, one-length styles and pre-lightened with L’ Oréal Professional | Smart Bond. For the style, I used traditional rollers, as well as a GlamPalm curling wand, and gently blew the curls with my Dyson with a blow wave after spraying her hair with Redken’s Volumizer spray.
4 3 Look 3 Model: Ajency About the look: Ethnic hair is a great passion of mine and I loved creating this reverse ombre look in a red that is currently trending in Europe. The key to rocking red is to find the right shade to match your skin tone; in Ajency’s case this was a burnt copper red. The technique: Her hair was pre-lightened with L’Oréal Professional | Smart Bond. The color technique, using Color Sense colours, was a reverse ombre, given how short her hair was. I used serums and texturing products from Biosense to style her hair.
Look 5 Model: Cailin Brown About the look: My clients have dubbed me somewhat of a blonde specialist, which is why I made sure I added a blonde look into my capsule collection. For Cailin, I wanted to showcase a new technique from Russia. The technique: Her hair was pre-lightened with L’Oréal Professional | Smart Bond. The color technique, using Color Sense colours, was to add highlights and tone the blonde she had, to add a golden hue to the hair. The technique, by Russian master Georgy Kot, was taught to me two weeks before the event. PB
Look 4
2 Look 2 Model: Georgie Keschner About the look: This look was a showcase of a traditional French “Balayage a Coton” technique.
Model: Mickey Bux About the look: Pop and movie stars are obsessed with the super sleek ponytail with a tight hairline. It is known to be like an instant facelift, accentuating your cheekbones. The sleek ponytail with added gold leaf brought our ‘Silk Road’ theme to life. The technique: A sleek ponytail was created by ensuring the
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HSOTY
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Salon Furniture
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Outfitting YOUR SPACE
Whether you are opening a new spa or salon, refurbishing an existing property, or merely replacing a piece of furniture or equipment, it’s important to find items that are tailor-made for your needs.
I
n order to make the correct purchasing decision for your salon or spa, give yourself enough time to shop around in terms of quality, durability, functionality and price, and only ever purchase from reputable suppliers with a proven track record. Natasha Delport of Logica Beauty Supplies advises that when purchasing furniture or equipment, to be aware of its assembly process. She says: “One of the aspects to look at especially when ordering furniture is whether the furniture is delivered already set up, or whether you have to
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A reliable supplier should carefully select their salon furniture to keep up with the latest trends, while offering exceptional quality and comfort. put it together yourself. Often such items come from the manufacturer incomplete or with defaults. A reputable supplier will
assemble it and deliver it to the client already assembled, with no manufacturing defaults. “You need to pay close attention to the quality and durability of the equipment that you are purchasing. For instance, equipment such as facial steamers are used by a lot of different personnel in the salon and spa, and not everyone takes the same care when working with these devices. You do not necessarily want to buy the cheapest model, but rather a brand that is trustworthy and will last for many, many years.” In terms of salon chairs,
Delport makes the point that they are used daily by many customers. She continues: “It is very hard to tell the difference with salon equipment that is sold online, so it’s important to know where the equipment is manufactured. Like a lot of other products, some salon equipment is made in the Far East and, at times, the quality can be inconsistent and may not last that long. I believe that American or European made furniture can have a longer life and is usually made with expert craftsmanship. And don’t forget about locally made furniture. Many times the best furniture to buy is that which is made by South African hands. “It’s important to get durability details from the customer service representative, or to look at the specifications and features of the item. What is it made of? Steel? Aluminum? Plastic? How will constant usage affect the item? How long will it last? Always remember the old adage – you get what you pay for.”
Warranty Delport advises prospective buyers to find out if a warranty is offered and what it includes. Is the company going to be helpful if something should go wrong? How has the company handled your phone calls to this point? Have they been responsive to your needs? Make sure you understand the company’s return policy. Ask the customer service representative if you have any questions regarding the policy. She notes that buying a single piece of equipment that has different uses all in one also saves space. “For instance, you can buy a 2-in-1 high frequency and galvanic machine in one, rather than buying two separate machines.”
Big investment Spa treatment beds will be one of the biggest investments when setting up a spa. Jacoline Wentzel, a spa consultant and owner of The Spa Warehouse, provides some useful pointers. Says Wentzel: “Purchasing cheap to save money initially will
cost you dear in the long run. Often owners want to skimp by buying cheap, low quality beds or portable beds when setting up a spa with the mindset of upgrading later. This can be a very expensive way to go about it. Your spa treatment bed needs to be comfortable, hard wearing, long lasting and should be able to handle a large volume of clients. Rather invest a little more in the beginning and buy great quality that will last you 10 or more years, instead of having to replace within two years. “Always purchase with your client in mind. If your client is going to book a three-hour treatment, then comfort for your client is key. Look for a spa bed with a mattress that is at least 8-10cm thick, 75cm wide minimum and 185cm or longer. First decide what type of treatments you want to perform on the bed before deciding what bed to purchase. Most good quality spa treatment bed brands have a variety of beds available for various treatment options. Ask your supplier for advice on what bed will best suit your needs.” Wentzel advises a minimum of a 1-year warranty on your purchase. Your supplier should indicate as much on the invoice, so that you have that back up from the beginning, in case of any inconsistencies. “Make sure you purchase from a reputable company with a track record and back up service. Do your homework. If the company cannot give you references of who they have supplied, it might be time to carry on shopping. If they do have references, make sure you verify them,” concludes Wentzel. Samantha Walker of Hands Down, a division of EMSA Distribution (Pty) Ltd, adds: “A reliable supplier should carefully select their salon furniture to keep up with the latest trends, while offering exceptional quality and comfort. Furniture should be made with the latest technology foam and fabric to ensure longevity in the salon. Brands should be tried and tested to ensure quality and client satisfaction 100% of the time.”
Salon Furniture
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>
Salon Furniture
42 Furniture & Equipment Gaslift Therapist Chair This locally made Gaslift Therapist Chair is available either with or without a backrest. Salon and spa owners can choose to have the chair in black or white. Logica Beauty Suppliers 021 552 6999
both 400g and 800g warmers to melt hot wax or film wax. Depilève also offers a universal double and single cartridge warmer with a sturdy, skid-free base. Hands Down 021 944 8700 Morris Shampoo Station
Mudara Electrical Spa Massage Table
This table is crafted from a solid hardwood structure and matching natural wood veneer. Various wood species/wood stain options are available. It is electrically operated with four motors for electric height, electric backrest and leg rest adjustments. Adjustable armrests provide extreme comfort to the client while being given a massage. There is plenty of storage space to accommodate a hot cabinet and spa accessories. The Spa Warehouse 021 863 0373 Depilève Warmers The Depilève Warmers contain an electronic thermostat that controls the wax temperature and the indicator light will go on and off intermittently during operation. There is a choice of
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The Morris Shampoo Station is an elegant shampoo station that is ready and waiting for an upmarket salon. It is made of PVC leather, comes with a ceramic basin, a choice of mixer, a choice of shower and includes all standard pipes and fittings. This item is available in black. Rapple Salon Products 021 981 0032 Wall Mount Hood Drier
foot reflexology treatments. It features electric seat and backrest adjustment, and a pipeless hydro-massage function in the basin. The moveable armrest makes it easy for the client to get on and off the pedicure chair, which also has an adjustable feet rest, as well as a seven colour changing LED light for colour therapy during a pedicure. A drain function inside the pedicure tub can be operated from outside, while foldable armrests allow for a manicure. The pedicure unit has a metal frame structure, natural wood/ wood-veneer, and quartz marble top and acrylic basin. The Spa Warehouse 021 863 0373 Wash Station
This Wall Mount Hood Drier has three fan speed settings, as well as an adjustable timer. An adjustable arm extension allows for multiple dryer angles, for the convenience of the stylist. Hands Down 021 944 8700 Anagh Pedicure Spa Chair The Anagh Pedicure Spa Chair is a luxury design pedicure foot spa that can also be used for
A deluxe item for any hair salon, this specialised leather vinyl material with Anti-Fray technology has a tiltable basin and high density foam cushion compound to ensure the client’s comfort. Hands Down 021 944 8700
Nixon Barber Chair
Pedi Pool
and product and polish application efficient. Milk Solutions 011 454 8119 3 in 1 Combination Machine
The Nixon barber chair is made of PVC leather and has a steel frame which guarantees longer lasting quality. This unit comes with a round chrome base, extendable footrest, removable headrest, and a hydraulic pump that has a 1-year guarantee. It is available in black. Rapple Salon Products 021 981 0032
The Pedi Pool combines total salon sanitation with stateof-the-art styling. This unique pedicure bowl with customised hygiene liners has been ergonomically moulded to ensure total comfort for clients during pedicure treatments, whilst stabilising their feet and making access and application easier for the technicians. The lightweight Pedi Pool can easily be moved about the salon. Milk Solutions 011 454 8119 Mani SuperBowl
The new SuperBowl is a revolution in manicure treatments. Customised disposable liners ensure 100% hygiene. An ergonomically moulded hand rest provides total client comfort. The intelligent design streamlines the treatment process for technicians by positioning and securing the hands, so that access is easy
As it name suggests, this 3 in 1 Combination Machine is a multi-functional device that incorporates three different technologies. These are: High Frequency, Galvanic and Vacuum Suction, all supplied within a silver case. Logica Beauty Suppliers 021 552 6999 Ayurveda Beds The Spa Warehouse is one of the few suppliers in South Africa of Ayurveda beds and equipment for spas in South Africa. Ayurveda is an ancient old treatment method that induces relaxation using various herbal and plant ingredients and oils. The Spa Warehouse 021 863 0373
Facial Steamer This Facial Steamer with Ozone is made in Taiwan. Its head rotates 270 degrees and the unit rests on a 5-Star heavy duty stand. Both the arm and head are made from stainless steel and not plastic, which is a very important aspect to look for when wanting a more durable facial steamer. Logica Beauty Supplies 021 552 6999 online @ probeauty.co.za
Salon Furniture
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Aesthetic Medicine
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‘Soft surgery’ Positioned as the next generation technology for skin tightening and collagen production, plasma treatments are offered by numerous skincare centres and medical aesthetic practices countrywide, writes KAREN ELLITHORNE.
A
lso known as ‘soft surgery’, plasma skin tightening is a minimally invasive and affordable treatment that delivers results similar to surgery. However, there is no scalpel, stitches or bandages involved, and downtime is limited. We are all familiar with solids, liquids and gases.
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Plasma is the fourth state of matter. As such, plasma pens ionise the gas in the air to create an electrical spark that is similar to a lightning bolt, which vaporises a tiny patch of skin. Visually, as the treatment is being performed, the tip of the plasma pen appears to be emitting miniature lightning bolts onto the skin’s surface. Plasma skin tightening is a preferred method for skin tightening and rejuvenation, due to the fact that the treatment can be more selective and precise, and the client’s exact needs can be met with a higher degree of precision. Therefore this treatment is referred to as ‘localised skin tightening’ A young, healthy skin contains a large amount of structural proteins (namely collagen) and elastin. The more collagen and elastin that is available in the skin, the less it will wrinkle and fold. As we age, these structural proteins decline,
leading to crow’s feet, wrinkles and lines. Prior to treatment, the patient will require the application of an anaesthetic cream to numb the skin and make the treatment more tolerable. Post treatment, the area will be red and, depending on the treatment area, will become swollen and develop tiny pin prick scabs. These scabs will gradually fall off after a few days. It is highly recommended that the client stay out of the sun and keep the treatment area occluded post treatment. Clients must also not pick or rub the scabs as this may lead to hyperpigmented areas. As soon as the wounds are healed, it is highly recommended to apply an anti-oxidant, like pure vitamin C, and sunblock to the area.
How does it work? Aesthetic skin tightening treatments are achieved when a mild, superficial, or controlled burn is performed on the epidermis. This in turn restores more elasticity to the skin, as localised wounding stimulates the skin’s regeneration process, resulting in firm and tighter skin. Wrinkles will appear reduced and the skin much tighter. The treatment tightens the skin by burning small patches of the epidermis. Each spark from the plasma device creates a tiny burn and, because of the wound, causes an instant tightening
of the skin. The treatment is performed by using the device to create a pattern of these burn marks along the crease of excess skin. This causes the epidermis to instantly shrink and firm. Due to the fact that the treatment works by making tiny burns on the epidermis, there is a potential for scarring post treatment. This potential is trebled due to the fact that it generally takes three treatments – spaced at six week intervals – to get the optimum results. However, once the result is achieved, the effects are expected to last several years.
After the treatment The client can expect immediate swelling that may get more severe on day two, especially if you are working on the eye area. This is then followed on day three with scabbing and crusting, which are both normal parts of the healing process that the treatment provokes. Whilst the scabs are still intact, the area will appear more painful than it actually is. One is advised to cover the area with a concealer, but it may make the area look worse than it is. Once the scabs have fallen off, the area will initially be red but this will slowly fade. The treated area will appear smoother than it was before.
What areas can be treated? Due to the very thin discharge of the plasma pen’s beam, this device is very popular for treating the eye area. The treatment has become known as a nonsurgical blepharoplasty due to the dramatic reductions of fine lines, wrinkles and sagging skin that can be achieved in the ocular region with a plasma device. Other areas that can also be treated are: • Complexion – treat sun spots, age spots and hyperpigmentation anywhere • Lips – treat marionette lines and smoker’s wrinkles. • Nasolabial – diminish smile lines.
• Neck – lift sagging skin and treat jowls • Skin laxity
Number of treatments This depends on the individual’s response to the treatment, the area being treated and the desired degree of correction required. The treatments may be repeated every eight to 12 weeks, but generally a maximum of two treatments is required.
Who can perform the treatment? When plasma pens initially launched in South Africa it was an exclusive doctor only treatment. However, with the increased popularity of the treatment and a variety of different plasma devices entering the market, SAAHSP (the Professional Body for skincare therapists and somatologists), has been forced to take a strong stance on this issue. Thus SAAHSP’s requirements for a skincare therapist to operate a plasma device on clients is as follows: SAAHSP members working with any type of Plasma Device should have a minimum 2- or 3-year Qualification – Health and Skincare Therapy and hold a Beauty Therapist / Somatology Designation. A Beauty Therapist / Somatologist, as part of their training, must have completed the following Modules in great detail: A full 2- or 3-year’s training comprising the following subjects: • Anatomy and Physiology and Pathology • Dermatology and Diseases and Disorders • Facial Treatments including electrical equipment • Specialised Body Treatments including electrical equipment • Full Body Massage • Hygiene and Sterilisation • Chemistry and Physics • Cosmetology • Cosmetic Science • Provide advice to clients on
treatment plan, homecare and use of cosmetic and health products • Business Module to enable them to perform Administrative and Managerial tasks in the working environment A Beauty Therapist or Somatologist working with a Plasma Device or any electrical equipment – Galvanic, Iontophoresis, High Frequency, Vacuum Suction, Micro Current, Interferential, Faradic, G5, Microneedling, Microdermabrasion, Chemical Peels, Derma-planing – should refer patients/clients/ guests to a Dermatologist if uncertain of various skin diseases, disorders and lesions. The Plasma Training offered does adhere to a 2- or 3-year qualification within the Health and Skincare Industry, therefore, an unqualified person/therapist who lacks the in-depth knowledge and does not have a full understanding of the Skin and Body will not be permitted to use a Plasma Device. This person/therapist will be working out of their scope of practice, which is unethical and irresponsible. Due to the wounding nature of this treatment, an extensive knowledge of wound caring, healing and post care application is essential when administering a Plasma Device. It is therefore of the utmost importance that this ruling is enforced as insurance will not cover a skincare therapist or skincare business that does not meet the above requirements, if something were to go wrong with a client’s Plasma rejuvenation treatment. PB A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
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Aesthetic Medicine
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Aesthetic Medicine
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Plasma devices We take a look at some of the latest plasma skin tightening machines in the market.
SIX Aesthetix Plasma Wave Pen The SIX Aesthetix Plasma Wave conductor tip creates a tiny plasma flash (similar to a tiny lightning bolt), which jumps from the tip to the skin and evaporates, leaving a very small, superficial brown carbon spot that looks like a freckle. There is no heat to the surrounding skin. These small spots draw the skin together in their direct environment and shrink the excess skin.
Plasmatek™
011 312 7840
Distributed by Radiant Healthcare, the Plasmatek™ Wireless device from LeaseMedica is a fully portable, true plasma device that fits into a case the size of a camera bag. It only requires a 10-minute charge once a week and the only disposable cost is the needle. The device’s NAPPI code can be used for medical aid claims since this device is medically CE approved and registered in South Africa.
011 794 8251/3
LCN Beauty Pad Pro // 3.0 This multifunctional beauty device combines three state-of-theart cosmetic procedures in one – LCN Scalp Pigmentation, Plasma and Needling (to support the plasma treatment for optimal results). Beauty Pad Pro // 3.0 is made in Germany according to the highest safety and hygiene standards.
010 593 3293
online @ probeauty.co.za
Plexr® The Plexr® device consists of a docking station with three hand pieces, which can be used simultaneously. Plexr® uses patented plasma technology to sublimate excess skin. The excess skin tissue shrinks and evaporates without imposing risk on the deeper layers of the skin. This means a quick and easy procedure with minimal downtime.
021 917 1911
Product News
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market IN THE
Our round-up of new products and treatments
Melting threads THESERA. L. non-invasive, non-surgical facial melting threads are based on no-needle TDN (Transfer Double Nanosphere) technology, which allows active ingredients to penetrate into the dermal layers via paracellular pathways, filling in the area under the skin. The thread fibre (in the form of liquid) is applied onto the epidermis.
082 788 7026
Farewell to hair No-Grow Hair Removal System is a topically applied hair removal cream that dissolves hair above and below the surface of the skin. It destroys the hair follicle, thus stopping it from producing further hairs. The GSF 2:0 (Growth Shield Factor 2:0) compound safely recreates the conditions found in the matrix bulb of the hair root at the onset of male pattern baldness.
Dual-phase serum Dermalogica’s PhytoNature Firming Serum works by reawakening and safeguarding the nature of younger-looking skin. This ground-breaking dual-phase serum contains a firming phase powered by Sapphire-bound biomimetic peptides to help firm skin and reinforce skin defenses against your exposome (i.e. lifestyle + environment).
011 268 0018
082 552 1414
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Product News
48
Tried and tested Dr. Hauschka Skin Care is extending its tried and tested regenerating range for mature skin with two luxurious new products. Regenerating Day Cream Intensive and Regenerating Oil Serum Intensive are designed for demanding, mature skin as it becomes drier and more sensitive. These highly effective recipes make the skin firmer and strengthen its barriers.
021 702 3617
Let there be light! The BeauLase Rejuve Device, designed for facial beautification, uses natural light waves transmitted by LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) into the skin. The light activates photoreceptors in skin cells, producing energy for absorption by skin components. Massaging with the BeauLase Rejuve balances skin tone and enhances circulation.
0861 850 851
Triple action Nimue’s Hyaluronic Ultrafiller is a powerful, lightweight serum for dehydrated skin with a triple action approach, providing intense hydration in all the layers of the skin. This unique serum offers anti-ageing, anti-pollution and antioxidant benefits in addition to hydration. It is suitable for all skin classifications and ideal for use during seasonal changes.
011 036 9600 online @ probeauty.co.za
CBD lotion 3Sixty BioMedicine has launched the Cape Sativa brand into the South African market. Cape Sativa Everyday cream is a CBD (cannabidiol) infused lotion that is formulated to moisturise and repair skin, increase elasticity and provide an anti-ageing factor. CBD has proven anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, ideal for everyday use and dry skin conditions.
010 593 4632
Stimulating mask From SKNlogic, the Multi Regenerating Masque Stem Cell Rejuvenator is an overnight treatment that stimulates fibroblasts and collagen synthesis in mature skin and erases wrinkles. It is formulated with Phycojuvenine, which is, extracted from the brown seaweed Laminaria digitata, also called Kombu in Japan.
021 552 6999
Arresting aroma
Product News
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Big boost
The Floral Citrus Fusion Diffuser from TheraVine features the brand’s signature fragrance blend, a citrusy blend of crushed lemon, lime and juicy grapefruit. This exotic fragrance of rich citrus has an added sweet side, giving your space the sophisticated aroma it deserves. It is housed in a glass bottle with black reeds.
The Sothys Cosmeceutique Dermoboosters is a line of products containing ultra-active molecules to complement the brand’s other ranges, and to be recommended when the skin particularly needs to be strengthened or repaired. This line is ideal for intensifying a Sothys skincare programme with a micro-exfoliating or stronger peeling product.
021 701 2900
021 886 6623
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SAAHSP
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Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry in SA
Cidesco Section South Africa
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
Grading System The SAAHSP Grading System is implemented for our Salon/Spa/Clinic Members to ensure and maintain the highest of standards set by the Professional Body. Processes and Criteria • Site inspection • Documents as per Application Form
Sliver - Approved with Merit • Between 70% and 90% criteria met • Probation period - 1 month to improve status
Red – Provisionally approved • Less than 50% criteria met • Probation period - 1 month to improve status
Gold - Approved with Distinction *Between 90% and 100% criteria met
Bronze – Approved • Between 50 and 70% criteria met • Probation period - 1 month to improve status
SAAHSP reserves the right to revoke or change an awarded status if the Salon/Spa/Clinic persistently does not adhere to SAAHSP Rules and Regulations.
How can we help you? SAAHSP is a Non-Profit Organisation serving its members in the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry as the Professional Body in South Africa. SAAHSP is legally constituted to protect the Public Interest in relation to services provided. The Professional Body will develop, award, monitor and revoke Professional Designations and regulate Continual Professional Development (CPD).
Our Mission Statement Provide awareness to the Consumer through Education, Protection and Professionalism
Our Vision To advance co-operation with all participants within the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry to online @ probeauty.co.za
ensure the maintenance of the Highest Standard of Ethical Conduct.
Our Objectives • To maintain a dynamic organisation that aims to foster professionalism and unity in the industry • To enhance educational and practising standards at all levels in the industry in accordance with national and international trends, needs and developments • To co-operate and liaise with all participants in the beauty, health and skin care industry ensuring the maintenance of the highest standards of ethical conduct • Formulate scopes of practice at all levels and lobby to protect the future growth and development
of the beauty, health and skincare industry • Develop the appropriate structures or committees to fulfil the role of the Professional Body SAAHSP would love to hear from you. Therefore, do not hesitate to contact us if you are a therapist working within the a Salon / Spa / Corporate Industry or a supplier adding value to the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry by joining the Professional Body – SAAHSP, by holding hands whereby we can learn and grow together to become united and grow from strength to strength. #dotherightthing SAAHSP Head Office Email: info@saahsp.co.za or ansa@saahsp.co.za Phone: 011 675 6518
Issue 31
Mar/Apr 2020
OIL PAINTING
Cuticle care
NAIL ART CONTAINED Encapsulation techniques
Time’s up! How to fire a client
Nail Design Competition Welcome
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Tel: 011 675
6518, Fax:
086 588 0973
, Postal addre
ss: Postnet
y the time we went to print with this issue of NailFile, global coronavirus paranoia had well and truly set in, which is not surprising considering the Issue 31 rapid spread of this disease since December 2019. So, we have included an Mar/Apr 202 0 article on the importance of hand sanitisation, with recommendations from the USA’s CDC (Centres for Disease Control and Prevention). The information is basically just thorough hygiene and common sense, but it’s something that needs to be reiterated on a regular basis, and not just in the era of a rampant virus. One of our ‘Ask the Experts’ articles focuses on an unusual and sensitive topic – how to fire a client. This topic was suggested by industry professional, Yolande Bekker, and it is she who provides a really useful answer. I’m sure there are a lot of salon owners and nail techs out there with that one, ultra-troublesome client who cause them lots of grief and who they wish they could be free from. We received lots of lovely entries for our first NailFile Nail Design Challenge of the year, which was themed, ‘Roaring 20s’. It’s always encouraging to see the entries rolling in for these competitions, which were introduced by Sonette van Rensburg to give nail techs the chance to tap into their creativity. We reveal the ‘Roaring 20s’ winner on page 55. Suite 236,
Private Bag X1,
Cresta
OIL PAINTI NG Cuticle car e
NAIL ART CONTAINE Encapsul D ation tec
Time’s up!
hniques
How to fi re
a client
Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
WHAT’S INSIDE
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Industry News
Nail Health
In the market
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Ask the Experts
Step by Step
Top Tech Talk
Stay in the know
Reducing no shows; firing clients
59 Techniques
The secret to perfect encapsulation online @ probeauty.co.za
Cuticle oil - a nail necessity
Teardrops with fine lining
Product Hub
Hans ‘The Principal’ von Francois Praeg
53 News
NEWS
Information at your fingertips
Big focus on hand sanitisation in coronavirus era At the time of going to print in mid-March, there was no vaccine available to prevent coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19). However, the World Health Organisation (WHO) and other health/medical bodies, such as the US Centers for Disease Control (CDC), have frequently emphasised the importance of thoroughly washing hands with soap and clean, running water (or with a hand sanitiser that is at least 60% alcohol) as a way of preventing and spreading infection from respiratory diseases such as COVID-19.
The CDC recommends frequent hand washing, especially before touching any instrument or tool that you may use on clients, and also after coughing or sneezing. Hands should be wet with clean, running water (either warm or cold) and once the
tap is turned off, lather your hands with soap at back of hands, between fingers and under the nails. Then scrub hands for at least 20 seconds. Rinse hands well under clean, running water and dry your hands using a clean towel, or air dry them.
Top nail art trends revealed French noire, ‘mix & match’, ‘bare essentials’, ‘cute & kitsch’ and animal print nail art are likely to feature throughout this year, according to experts at N.Bar Dubai, as published in Professional Beauty GCC. The N.Bar experts predict that 2020 (or ‘TwentyPlenty’ as some are calling it) will see bigger, brighter and bolder nails as this decade gets underway. They describe the French noire trend as the French manicure’s ‘cooler, older sister’, with black or dark blue French tips replacing the traditional white and/or pearly tips. In terms of ‘Mix & Match’, the N.Bar experts predict mismatched, abstract shapes and/or 1980s geometric shapes paired with cool contemporary colours. As its name implies, the ‘bare essentials’ trend dictates mostly bare nails with a smidgen of luxe, like a dash of metallic
leopard skin, snakeskin and cow hide prints. N.Bar notes that pop star Ariana Grande and supermodel, Kendall Jenner, have already been sporting animal print talons.
Frills and ruffles
polish, glitter overcoat or even gold leaf. It’s always refreshing when kitsch suddenly becomes cool, so the ‘cute & kitsch’ nail art trend is likely to be a fun look for nail stylists to interpret, with the freedom to create something adorable and ultra-quirky. Animal print nail art, referred to as ‘wild thing’ by N.Bar, mirrors how big this look has been in fashion of late; shops are currently littered with garments and shoes made in
Presenting a different view from another part of the world, award-winning nail tech and YouTuber, Kirsty Meakin, told Professional Beauty UK that she expects exaggerated frills and ruffles, bold colour clashes and supersheer pastels to trend this year. She also predicts that an unusual (and significantly clashing) colour combo is likely to be hot pink and khaki, as seen on the London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 catwalks. Surprisingly, Meakin thinks that holographic chrome nails are becoming less popular, but she predicts that French ombré will remain as in demand as ever.
online @ probeauty.co.za
News
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Looking Good LCN announces its top performing salons At a recent event held in Pretoria East, Looking Good LCN’s Lea Castro announced the winners of the brand’s annual awards. Excellence Award (Overall Highest purchases value in South Africa) SP – Spot & Beauty Success Award (Highest growth percentage in South Africa) Roosthaven Spa Small Business (Awarded to the single owner/therapist offering service with the highest purchase value) Martie’s Nailtastic Prestige Award (Highest Purchase value in each Province) Eastern Cape • LCN Beauty & Nails By Liezl Gauteng Pretoria • LCN Aesthetic & Slimming Clinic Gauteng Johannesburg • SP – Sport & Beauty KwaZulu-Natal • Keleido Nails Mpumalanga • Sheer Elegance Nail & Beauty Salon North West • Chez Amé • Redlipstick Pamper Lounge Africa • African Treat Spa Concept Awards (Highest purchase value in the concept categories) Retail Hands Award LCN Aesthetic & Slimming Clinic Retail Feet Award LCN Aesthetic & Slimming Clinic Professional Award SP – Sport & Beauty Retail Make-Up Award Zen Spa & Rasul
Motivation Guests at the awards event were treated to a motivational talk by Looking Good LCN brand ambassador, Candice Abrahams,
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who in 2016 won both the Mrs South Africa and Mrs World titles. Abrahams urged salon owners, therapists and nail technicians to never abandon their dreams, despite the challenging economy. Said Abrahams: “Moving forward, you need to think of what is your ‘why’, what is your ‘how’ and what is your ‘what’. I believe you should think about what you can do to make things better for others, as our purpose in life is to lift each other up. “We all have things that are blocking us from doing things. Let go of negative talk and be aggressive about loving yourself. Use your talents, uniqueness and what people love about you.”
Business focus The event also afforded Castro an opportunity to reflect on Looking Good LCN’s achievements in 2019. She said: “Last year we announced the opening of our training spa for the purposes of moving trainees into salons. We ran a three-month long internship programme, a 12-month bursary programme and a mentorship programme. The latter ran for six months and our mentee worked with Franzelle De Villiers, one of our top LCN nail professionals. “Looking Good LCN is all about growing people, but then also taking them one step further.
Some of our LCN salons have a ‘rent-a-chair’ arrangement that our graduates can take advantage of.” Castro went on to speak about the concept of ‘My beauty partner’. “You are the centre of what we do and for that we thank you,” she told delegates. “Together we can do more and change the industry.” She noted that the LCN Africa Expert Group is on Facebook and closed to the public. “That’s how we communicate with our clients.”
New innovations Several new product releases were introduced at the event, including the ‘I Love My Smoothie’ collection; ‘Wild Desert Collection’; Bonding Vegan Gel and Bio Glass Tek. PB
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The NailFile ‘Roaring 20s’ Nail Design Challenge has been won by Juanita Bester, whose set of nails completely captured the 1920s era in terms of its fashions and colours. Says competition judge, Sonette van Rensburg: “Juanita’s two characters – the lady with the short, dark bob and the gent with the Errol Flynn moustache – are both very typical of the Gatsby era and complement each other perfectly. The character in their faces really stands out in the way they have been illustrated. Other nails that totally exude the 1920s style are the spats shoe, which displays perfect technical quality and colour, while the shirt with the bowtie radiates a charming antique quality. “Juanita created an outstanding presentation that included a complete storyboard detailing exactly how each of the nail designs were inspired. Her nail work was exceptionally neat.” Van Rensburg describes Chantelle Ayres’ second placed set as incredibly delicate and intricate. “This set was different in the totally feminine way in which the theme was depicted. Chantelle’s lovely and elaborate designs were complemented by the use of jewels to add the glitz and glamour of the 1920s era. Her nail enhancements were beautifully done and her step by step, superb.”
In third place, Annelize van Tonder’s depiction of the theme, technical quality of work and use of different techniques were judged to be excellent. “Annelize really used colour
News
Juanita Bester wins ‘Roaring 20s’
well and did a wonderful step by step that showed details of the inspiration and trends of the 1920s,” concludes Van Rensburg.
Bio Sculpture introduces new EVO logo South African professional nail brand, Bio Sculpture, has introduced a new logo and packaging for its popular EVO line. Says the company’s Eduard Scholtz: “It’s has been four years since we launched a completely new gel system into a company that had been selling a single system for over 25 years. Initially, EVO was considered something completely new and different and
we wanted to make sure people didn’t confuse it with Bio Sculpture Gel. “However, EVO has now become a big part of our brand and nail technicians found how well it marries with the Biogel range. Since then, Bio Sculpture went through a rebranding in 2018 and we felt that it was now time that EVO not only work well with the rest of the Bio Sculpture range, but also look the same. The new EVO
look and feel ties much better with the rest of the Bio Sculpture Brand.”
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Business Trends Tips
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ask
the EXPERTS
QUESTION: How can I reduce no-shows (i.e. missed appointments) in my salon? LARA WICKSTEED Some cancellations are unavoidable. Life happens. Unless they’re habitual no-shows, I recommend ‘forgiving’ at least one missed appointment. Allow some leniency. So how do you reduce your salon no-shows?
Monitor and track your salon no-shows If you have a system that allows you to flag or identify a no-show, this would be the first step. Then you can look for patterns within your salon on no-show data. • Is a particular staff member getting more no-shows? If so, you need to investigate why. • Are particular days worse than others? What about particular times? • Some services you provide may even have a higher no-show rate. Why? Once you have identified a pattern, you can then take steps to rectify the situation.
Booking reminders will reduce salon no-shows Most appointment-run businesses send SMS booking reminders, but if yours isn’t, then it’s time to get on board. It’s not only convenient for you but also for your clients. There have been many times where I have received an SMS reminder regarding an appointment I had made but had completely and utterly forgotten about. We are all busy and online @ probeauty.co.za
sometimes people just forget, so I really appreciate getting an SMS reminder, and your clients will too. I personally prefer a reminder 24 hours beforehand, as this gives me adequate time to rearrange my appointments or commitments. Aside from that, it gives an impression of a more professional and organised business.
Cancellation policy for salon no-shows I’m not a huge fan of cancellation policies for no-shows as I don’t believe it can be implemented successfully or fairly. The reason I say this is because clients no longer hand over credit card details easily anymore, so how else would you implement it? As mentioned before, life does happen, so if they can’t make it and you end up charging them for a service they never had, it does not leave a very good impression and you may lose a client because of that. If you use a loyalty programme and you see that a particular guest is showing a trend as a no-show, then perhaps redeem her scheduled treatment against her points.
Get your salon in order I believe the most important way of over-coming no-shows is to get your salon in order, so start by taking a long look in the mirror.
• Are you providing less than 5-star client experiences in your salon? • Have you created an overly casual environment where clients have little respect for reserved appointments? • By forming a friendly bond, your client will naturally be more likely to avoid disappointing you by not showing up without good reason. • Good time management on your part is vital; if you are always running late and leaving your client sitting around waiting, you show a lack of respect for their time. • Improve your clients’ experiences throughout your salon. • Create a professional experience that is so incredible that a client would never consider no-showing for an appointment.
Lara Wicksteed began her skincare career as a training specialist for Dermalogica and subsequently worked and travelled the world for top skincare brands. She was given the opportunity to be her own boss when she was invited to copartner in the YOUBAR Skin Hair & Nail stores.
Business Business Trends Tips
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QUESTION: How do you fire a client and when is the right time to do it? YOLANDE BEKKER We all have those clients who really break us mentally during their services. They are always late, skip appointments, don’t cancel, tell you how your job should be done, influence the salon’s atmosphere, or even tell you that you need to change products. So many nail artists are enduring such clients because they feel they need them, or because they fear bad publicity, especially on social media. Normally these clients do not respect your time, or the time of your next client, and always make you out to be the villain. A client who does not respect your time or that of others, and who will always make excuses and attack you for not doing your job, is the type of client you do not need. A client who does not cancel her appointments but expects you to keep her in your schedule will always do this to you. Two missed appointments and she is out. The client who breaks down the brand you are using and always knows more about how things should be done, is the client that drains you physically and mentally. Clients who are disrespectful towards your fellow employees or employer and love to gossip about people in the business also need the boot.
Cleaning up Nail artists choose this career because they love what they do, so why do so many of them put up with all these negatives and lose money? Because they are too afraid to fire rude and disrespectful clients. You shouldn’t have to sell your soul if you are maintaining a high standard, have a great attitude and the skill to do your job. Doing what you love should make you happy, not stress you out, so if you are stressed out, it is time to clean up. Your clients should know from day one how you operate so ensure all your rules and regulations are in place, and signed by the client. After that, just follow your own rules. A lot of nail artists don’t have their indemnities and rules and regulations in place. If it’s not on paper, you have no leg to stand on. Running a business is not just doing nails; it’s admin, advertising, planning, stock control etc.
When should I do it? • When you feel the client has become a leech and they make you want to cry. • When they don’t obey your rules. • When they attack you personally, always find fault
and demand free services after two weeks. • In your soul you will know when you can’t handle a client anymore.
How to do it? According to author and motivational speaker, Simon Sinek, when you are in a position of conflict, you need to address three things. You have to say exactly how you feel, be it happy, sad or angry. Then share the specific action that made you feel that way. Lastly, explain the impact of their action. That’s all you need to do, no confrontations, just express your point of view. Happy nail artists have clients who accept their rules, space and time.
Yolande Bekker is the sole distributor for Young Nails in Southern Africa. In 2013 she was Professional Beauty’s Entrepreneur of the Year and her company has won Best Nail Supplier and Best Training awards.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Nail Design Challenge
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Photographic Design Challenge Superheroes
It’s time for adventurous nail techs to get into their tights, don their cloaks and harness their super-human powers to fight off the evils of the universe and battle their dastardly arch-rivals – the super-villains.
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here is a whole plethora of superheroes (also known as ‘costumed crime fighters’) for nail techs to choose from, from comic book universes of Marvel and DC Comics, among others. Superheroes include Batman, Wonder Woman, Black Panther, Superman, Black Widow, Spider-Man, Captain Marvel, Hulk, Captain America, Catwoman, Iron Man, Thor, X-Men, Green Lantern, Daredevil, The Flash, Deadpool, Silver Surfer… So, go on and dip your nails into this fantastical alternative world where good versus evil and eventually wins! The deadline for entries is 21 April 2020.
Rules & Regulations • Designs must be created according to the theme – Superheroes. • Rhinestones and embellishments may be used but must not dominate. • Nail stylists have complete artistic freedom to interpret and create their designs in any style they wish using flat, encapsulated 2D or 3D design work and techniques. • Designs must be created on a live model, either on natural nails or enhancements but not on tips only. • Photographs must be high quality. Photos MUST NOT include any product logos and there must be NO PRODUCTS in the photos. • The model’s hands, cuticles and nails must be perfectly manicured and in a good condition. PLEASE remove cuticle oil prior to taking your final photo entry. • Any length and shape may be achieved. • A combination of products and nail systems may be used, as long as it pertains to and complements the theme and look. • All 10 of the model’s nails must have a design and creation on them; each design on each nail must be different but must complement one another and be consistent in design flowing throughout all 10 nails to tell a story. • Designs must be the nail stylist’s own original work. • Please provide a WRITTEN step by step of your work, photos and the inspiration behind your design. Additional points awarded for presentation. • Photos must be emailed to nailfile@probeauty.co.za and clearly indicated and labeled with the name of the Nail Technician. Entries must include full contact details. Sponsored by: • Winners and placements will be announced on social media and the following issue of Professional Beauty & NailFile magazine. The judge’s decision is final. For further information contact Joanna Sterkowicz on Tel: 011 781 5970 or Email: joanna@probeatuy.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Techniques Trends
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The
secret toperfect
encapsulation Encapsulated nail art has become a popular and sought after service in many salons. TANIA BIDDLE provides some useful pointers on how to master this skill.
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lients often request different nail art effects, such as the encapsulation of glitters, gems, dried flowers, beads, crushed shells and more. While this type of effect can be very pleasing, where does the technician draw the line in terms of what is safe salon practice or not? Proper, thorough care when using a gel system is one of the biggest aspects that a technician should think of when encapsulating any form of nail art. In most cases, the technician will need to build up on the upper arch more than usual, to ensure that the nail art is properly secured and covered. This will also provide additional strength and support to the nail. If doing this application with a gel system, ensure that you have a good quality curing unit, allowing a good and thorough cure of
the thicker layer. This will assist in preventing problems such as product lifting, or possible allergic reactions caused from ‘wet’ or semi-cured product being left on the nail. Often, to save time, technicians will try and complete the entire design in one step. Keep in mind that short cuts often result in comebacks, costing the salon time and money to fix. Many encapsulated designs will be done on a lengthened nail – a sculptured nail being a popular choice. This allows for more space for the nail art to be placed, providing an overall more pleasing end result. If the client chooses to keep her nails short and have the application done on her own nails, it’s best for the technician to select a thinner / finer art to encapsulate. This will prevent the application on the short nail from appearing thick and bulky. A clear or solid effect can be achieved when encapsulating nail art.
Planning is key Have your treatment and application process planned before starting. This will give you a clear indication of what your next step should be and will prevent time being wasted, which would ultimately affect the end result of the treatment. Purchase all materials that you plan to encapsulate from a reputable supplier. Then ask yourself the following: when last did you attend a refresher workshop? Are you trained and practiced in the latest trends and application techniques? Are you confident that you are able to perfectly shape a nail, producing a perfectly positioned upper arch with a precise apex placement? In this continuously evolving industry, a technician should regularly attend training workshops to ensure that her skill level remains of top standard.
Tania Biddle is the owner of Plush Nails & Beauty in Roodepoort and head of international education for Bio Sculpture.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Nail Health
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Cuticle oil – a nail necessity
SONETTE VAN RENSBURG reveals why cuticle oil is an absolute must for your client’s nails and skin and why you should recommend it as an aftercare treatment.
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f everyone understood nail anatomy facts a little better, they would know exactly how important and beneficial cuticle oil is to the natural nail plate and surrounding skin. Here is a little recap that explains why. Recently, leading scientific researcher, Doug Schoon, released some rather interesting and eye-opening new nail anatomy facts, which were shared in the September issue of Professional Beauty & NailFile magazine. One of the most important facts that he wanted to get across was being able to recognise and know that the proximal nail fold is NOT the cuticle and should not be confused for cuticle tissue, which is an important part of the nail acting as a barrier and seal to protect the nail plate and matrix area. Under no circumstances should it ever be cut, unless a tiny loose piece of dry skin is being removed. Cutting and overly aggressive manicuring techniques can break the living skin tissue, allowing
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bacteria to penetrate and cause infections. That’s why it is so important to be extremely careful and practice safe procedures when performing nail treatments and to rather nurture and care for the natural nails and surrounding skin, by using the correct procedures and products to complement your treatments. By doing so you minimise having to use harsh techniques to achieve what you need to. Nail care treatments can improve and maintain the health of the natural nails and skin and be very beneficial when performed professionally, providing many benefits, which helps to keep nails tough and durable and skin, supple and smooth. When using and recommending a cuticle oil, make sure it is a good quality, light penetrating oil, which is
naturally derived rather than synthetic, as it will penetrate the nail plate layers and skin better, thus being far more beneficial for a client’s natural nails and skin. Oils that are commonly used in cuticle oils include almond, rice bran, jojoba, apricot kernel, grape seed and marula, to mention a few. Some clients may think you are just trying to make a sale by recommending they use a cuticle oil, however you need to explain why it is necessary and how it will benefit them, by helping to maintain the health of their natural nails and skin, keeping them hydrated and conditioned. This then prevents flaking, peeling and breaking. It can even help shrink back tough, stretched out cuticles leaving them more supple and without the need for cutting.
Oil vs moisture The natural nail plate consists of chains of keratin polymers, made of amino acids, forming the basic structure of nail cells. Between these chains are many microscopic
spaces, which usually contain moisture (water) and oil. The nail plate is hydrophilic, meaning it can absorb water or oil just like a sponge, especially after prolonged soaking. Most of the water and oil originate within the nail bed. Migrating from the bed, oil and moisture slowly diffuse through the layers of the nail plate until reaching the surface. A good balance of both keeps your nails tough. Some treatments and chemicals can deplete oil and moisture from the nail plate and surrounding skin, leaving them dehydrated, brittle and dry. Cuticle oil will not only toughen up the natural nail plate, but can greatly benefit clients who wear nail enhancements, gel polish or any nail coating as well, preventing them from cracking and lifting while maintaining the health and condition of the natural nails and skin. Remember to always treat the nails and cuticle with the utmost care, instead of aggravating thickened skin by cutting. Recommending a combination of a good quality cuticle cream and cuticle oil to create a moisture pack, will not only treat the cuticles and nails to a hydrating and conditioning cocktail, but also maintain their health and condition. This is definitely the safest and most effective way to achieve the best results.
Product Focus Dadi’ Oil Certified organic, Dadi’ Oil offers fast, non-greasy deep penetration and a clean, light aroma made up of 21 essential oils. Ingredients include high-purity avocado oil, vitamins A, D and lecithin for superior moisturising, extra virgin olive oil, jojoba oil and natural vitamin E. 011 447 0659/3
Bio Sculpture Ethos Almond Oil The Bio Sculpture Ethos Almond Oil is infused with almond extract and thus ideal for use on dry cuticles and can also be used during gel removal, leaving the nail in great condition. It also contains jojoba, avocado oils and vitamin E to hydrate nails during removal. 051 943 0377 Gelish Nourish Cuticle Oil A unique blend of grapeseed oil, kukui nut oil, sesame and vitamin E, Gelish Nourish Cuticle Oil rehydrates and moisturises the cuticle and surrounding skin. It is a versatile product that can be used in various services to restore essential oils. 011 447 0659/3 Milk Solutions Nourishing Nail Oil In addition to milk and honey, the Milk Solutions Nourishing Nail Oil contains a rich blend of avocado, baobab and sweet almond oils to nourish the nails. The oil is applied by spraying it into the palm of the hand and then massaging it into the nail plate in circular movements. 011 454 8119 Young Nails Rose Oil This oil nourishes and protects the cuticle from breaking and peeling. It should be recommended to clients to protect natural nails and artificial enhancements from cracking, lifting and separating. Rose
Business Product Nail Trends Health News
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Oil is specially formulated for optimum penetration and fortified with vitamins A, D and E for and conditioning. 011 393 2791 Jessica Phenom Oil An intensive moisturiser, Jessica Phenom Oil stimulates like a massage, intensively conditions and softens cuticles as it promotes the growth and strength of the nail. It heals and rehydrates with natural jojoba, almond and rice oils. 011 454 8119 Saloncare Cuticle Cream This light, creambased treatment for cuticles contains tea tree for anti-fungal purposes. 073 5055 936
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years, and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Step by Trends Step
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Teardrops with fine lining This bedazzling, bejeweled look was created by ‘NADZ’ (aka Nadia Erasmus of Nadz Hope Nails in Cape Town).
1 3 5 online @ probeauty.co.za
Sculpt the nail with acrylic glitter and cover pink to the desired shape and length.
Use a smaller liner brush (dipped in either liner gel or acrylic paint) to create fine outlines of your teardrops.
For extra sparkle add some gems to the back of the nail, using clear acrylic and top coat. To finish off, add some cuticle oil..
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Using a stripping brush and 2D gel, create teardrops along the side of the nail, leaving enough space to add some extra detail.
Cover the nail with top coat and add gems and crystals as desired.
Product
HUB
Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails
Iconic collection Gelish and Morgan Taylor’s Fall 2020 collection, Forever Marilyn, is the second Marilyn Monroe inspired collection and includes six new elegant shades reminiscent of Marilyn’s classic Hollywood beauty. They are: All American Beauty (soft sheer nude); That’s So Monroe (cool brown shimmer); Some Girls Prefer Pearls (pearly white shimmer); and Classic Red Lips (tomato red crème).
011 447 0659
Classic meets trendy Jessica Cosmetics introduces its Vintage Beauty Collection by launching six new Custom Colours and matching Geleration shades from bygone eras. They are: Roadster; Coupe De Ville; Falcon; Thunderbird; Woody and Mustang.
011 784 0376
Floral fantasy English Garden is a chic collection featuring six, versatile shades of cool pastels and elegant neutrals. Comprised of CND Vinylux Long Wear Polish and CND Shellac Brand Gel Polish, the collection is a romantic, feminine palette, reminiscent of a hidden English garden in full bloom.
011 791 4027
Precise placement The YN Synergy Gel Precision Applicator is Young Nails’ latest, need-it -now sculpting gel product for when control and convenience matter. Nail artists, whether beginner or experienced, will love this mess-free, brush-free, easy to use and time-saving one of a kind gel tube applicator.
011 393 2791
Starry nights Launching at the end of March, the new EVO Milky Way Duos from Bio Sculpture comprises four EVO solid colour gels and four EVO Iron Lady magnetic gels merged together. Each duo forms part of the bright band of stars that we see stretched across the dark, romantic night sky.
051 943 0377
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Trends Q&A
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Business Trends Q&A
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Top Tech Talk NailFile talks to Hans ‘The Principal’ von Francois Praeg about being a male nail tech in a femaledominated industry and about winning an award just two months into his career. Congratulations on winning the Tip Overlay Student / Novice category at the 2019 Professional Beauty Annual Nail Competition. How did it feel to win? No event in my life could ever compare to how I felt when they called out my name as the winner! The amount of reward encapsulated in that single moment was overwhelming for the whole team. Because I was the only male competing, I gathered quite a following of supporters during the course of the day as I was seen as ‘the underdog’.
What do you think it was about your set of nails that impressed the judges? Product control, consistency throughout the set and precision. That is also how I am being trained currently – with that image in mind. Allysia, my competition model, also gave me the leading edge with her flawless nails and nailbeds.
Was this your first ever competition? Yes, and it is also the first of many to come. I believe that competing keeps you on top of your game, so the more you can compete, the better you will become. With that being said, I will try to compete until the day I can’t hold onto a nail file anymore.
How did you cope with competition nerves? Ha ha! I didn’t cope! The floor judges even noticed that I was totally freaked out. That was purely because of the fact that we had so much at stake. I just had to win in order to establish myself and to launch my career in the industry. I wanted to be taken seriously. Luckily, I had a worldclass team who supported me.
Do you do nail art at all? I like nail art to some extent but I’m not a ‘Mickey Mouse’ kind of guy. It’s very important for me to provide our clients with lasting and practical nails. I am, however, very fortunate to be a part of Ultimate Nails, which is guiding me in different directions so that I can explore and develop my own signature in nail art.
Are there any international nail techs/artists whose work you follow? I am a very big fan of David Fowler and his life story. Being a nine-time World Champion Nail Tech gives me something to work towards. online @ probeauty.co.za
For how long have you been a nail tech? I’m 32 years of age and only started my training with my mentor two months prior to the Professional Beauty Nail Competition. Due to the fact that I am new to the industry, I am still in training and believe that I can’t ever be fully trained, as one needs to carry on learning all the time. My mentor is also my role model and the love of my life – Madelein Schoeman. Madelein is herself an award-winning nail tech and the owner of Ultimate Nails in Amanzimtoti. We work side by side every day and recently decided to broaden our horizons by opening a new branch in KwaZulu-Natal.
Regarding my new career in nails, I had always been a creative individual but couldn’t find a way to make my creativity work for me until recently. I was in sales and marketing for a very long time but didn’t find it rewarding. At Ultimate Nails, I now have the opportunity, guided by my team, to put all my creativity to best use in the nail industry. I found this to be my passion and will continue to explore the physics and science that nails entail. In other words, I will pursue the prospect of becoming a world champion nail technician.
In South Africa, nails is a very female-oriented industry. As a male nail tech do you find that this a challenging dynamic to deal with? Not at all. The biggest mistake anyone can make is to think that a man can’t be a nail technician. Boys, from a young age, are being taught to build and paint. Why not apply those skills on a micro scale and in an industry ready to accept men? We have men in our Ultimate Nails team and we find that we can make a far better team with all sexes included.
Do you think more men in South Africa are wanting to become nail techs? More men MUST become nail technicians. I truly believe that we are a country to be reckoned with in the nail industry and that men can also play their part in improving that. In my short experience, I’ve realised that women love being treated to nails by the opposite sex. When you look at big names in the international industry, like Danny Haile, David Fowler and the late, great Tom Holcomb, it’s clear to see that men abroad already changed the status quo regarding what men should and shouldn’t do. We, as the Ultimate Nails team, realised this and decided to use it to our advantage. Hopefully, one day, more nail technicians will also refer to male nail techs in South Africa as some of the biggest names overseas.
What first inspired your interest in nails? To be very honest, I was forced to develop an interest in the industry due to the fact that I was unemployed. I started as an assistant, serving cappuccinos and self-made foot soak treatments before ever thinking about being a nail technician. Then, one day in June 2019, my mentor mentioned a nail competition taking place in two months’ time...
When you decided to forge a career in nails, how did your family and friends react? Unfortunately, my family made it out to be a joke and my brother even started referring to me as his sister. Luckily, Madelein, our team and our clients supported me in such a way that the negative comments didn’t affect me. I believe the era of the ‘Maletech’ has arrived. Watch this space...
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