Nail File 1.5 Oct-Nov

Issue 5

Oct/Nov 2015

Delicate balance How to deal with challenging clients

truth or dare Busting industRy myths

Party NAILS Festive season looks

Triumphant times

Nail competition winners

What’s inside Nail File

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22

46

40

4

18

31

Industry News

Style Savvy

Pure Geometry

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20

32

Ask the Experts

Rudolf the Red-nosed Reindeer

Gel, gel and more gel

Step by step

Different types of gel on the market

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22

36

Business

Salon Focus

Know Your Chemicals

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26

40

In the Market

Winning Ways

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46

Busting Myths

Top Tech Talk

Stay in the know

How to handle your more challenging clients

Stocking up

All I want for Christmas

A new addition

Product Hub

Bogus remedies for nail disorders

Step by step

Mani- and pedi-wise

Vintage Memories

Danny Phung

Nail File Issue 5 Oct/Nov 2015

Cover: Vintage Memories by Tracey Lee

Welcome

T

NAIL FILE A Professional Beauty Supplement Published by T.E. Trade Events 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 / Fax: 011 781 6079 Additional pics: www. shutterstock.com

Publisher Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk Editor Joanna Sterkowicz joanna@probeauty.co.za Art Director Ursula Wong ursula@probeauty.co.za Technical Consultant Sonette van Rensburg sonette@probeauty.co.za Advertising Sales 011 781 5970

his issue of Nail File is the final one of the year. It’s hard to fathom that this is already our fifth edition of the magazine, as it seems like only yesterday that we were excitedly putting the first issue together. Originally conceived as a quarterly supplement, Nail File has proved so popular that it was decided to do six issues a year. I would like to thank our designer, Ursula Wong, and our technical consultant, Sonette van Rensburg, for all their hard work over the year.

In this edition there is a big focus on nail competitions, as in the Professional Beauty Nail Competition and the Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition. Both events were very exciting and spawned amazing entries, so we encourage all nail techs out there to enter next year’s competitions.

There is lots of to read in this issue – such as a useful business article on how to monitor your stock levels to make sure you have enough products at all times to perform treatments, as well as an in-depth look into the ingredients in mani and pedi products. You will also find the first instalment of a new series of articles called Busting Myths, which lifts the lid off taboo practices and bogus theories about nail products, treatments and nail health.

Enjoy the read and see you next year!

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

To advertise in Nail File, please call 011 781 5970 To contr ibute to editorial, contact Joanna To join the conversation Visit www.probeauty.co.za and follow us on Facebook and Twitter.

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News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips Reaching for the stars Competition was fierce, the sponsors were awesome, the judges were exacting and the nails amazing – it all went down at the Professional Beauty Nail Competition held on 31 August at Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand.

A

lways an incredibly popular feature of the annual Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, this year’s Nail Competition attracted a large number of contestants, who displayed some striking and creative work.

Professional Beauty would like to thank the generous competition sponsors, namely OPI, Young Nails, Calgel, Gelish, Morgan Taylor and ProHesion.

Judges included Evelyn Jansen van Vuuren, Tracey Owgan, Danny Phung, Bonnieta Sonnekus, Elbie dos Santos and Franzelle de Villiers.

Competition director Sonette van Rensburg would like to extend an extra and heartfelt thank you to Tracey Owgan and Evelyn Jansen van Vuuren for all their help and support with the Nail Competition and the Educationail Workshop at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show.

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News

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Results Mixed Media Category (Sponsored by Gelish) 3rd: Nokuphiwa Mngadi – Plush Nail Studio 2nd: Chantel Smith – Cherry Sparks 1st: Olena Kuzmenko

Tip Overlay: Novice Category (Sponsored by Prohesion & Calgel) 3rd: None 2nd: Priscilla Nota – Anza House of Hair & Beauty 1st: Annie Grace Mapuranga – Anza House of Hair & Beauty

Tip Overlay: Intermediate Category (Sponsored by Calgel & Prohesion)

3rd: Gisele Bonganga – Synergise Spa 2nd: Lerato Makhubela – Synergise Spa 1st: Connie Dhlamini – Synergise Spa

Sculptin g: Intermediate Category (Sponsored by OPI & Young Nails) 3rd: Charleen Dunkley 2nd: Karin Bouwer 1st: Patience Mlotshwa

Sculpting: Masters Category (Sponsored by OPI)

3rd: None 2nd: Vicky Louw – Young Nails 1st: Katia Da Silva – NSI

Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition

The winners of the Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition were announced at the Professional Beauty Nail Competition award ceremony. Here are the results: Photographic Category (Sponsored by Young Nails)

3rd: Chantel Smith (Cherry Blossom Geisha) 2nd: Vicky Louw (RuneBound) 1st: Tracey Lee (Vintage Memories)*

Tip Box Art Category (Sponsored by Young Nails)

3rd: Tracey Owgan (Game of Thrones) 2nd: Chantel Smith (The Chinese Dragon) 1st: Tracey Owgan (African Beauty) *See page 38 for step by step guide of Vintage Memories

Nail File Issue 5 Oct/Nov 2015

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News Industry News

‘Polishing’ up on education Presented by Nail File in association with ITEC, the EducatioNail Workshop held on 30 August at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand featured a number of top local and international experts, who unpacked pertinent issues facing the nail industry.

O

ver 60 delegates attended the EducatioNail Workshop, which ran alongside the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show.

International guest speakers were Anthony Buckley of Hand & Nail Harmony and OPI international artist, Danny Phung. Buckley gave a presentation on the forgotten art of sculpting, while Phung presented on client care, communication and consultation, together with OPI national educator, Bonieta Sonnekus.

The workshop kicked off with the ‘Face To Face with Doug Schoon!’ session – a video series presented by Douglas D. Schoon, scientist and product chemist and co-chair of the Nail Manufacturers Council, the foremost authority in the global industry.

Yolande Bekker and Xandia Greef of Young Nails presented

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a session called ‘Services for Success’, which revealed how nail techs can customise their hand, foot and nail services for extra added benefit and also capture those clients on the go.

Retail skills were covered by Lea Castro and Yvette Nel of LCN, who pointed out that selling retail after care products to clients is key to maintaining a successful business.

EducatioNail Workshop director and consulting educator, Sonette van Rensburg, Yvette Nel, Evelyn Jansen van Vuuren of Evelyn’s Nails and Tracey Owgan of Magnetic Nails gave a presentation of how to prepare for nail competitions.

Debbie Kayle of Sparkle Cosmetics gave a talk on the all-important issue of brand integrity and outlined the negative impact that counterfeit nail products are having on the industry.

Calgel’s Fergus McKinnon and Lilian Lee showed delegates how they can increase their salon’s revenue with easy to do and on trend nail art services.

The workshop concluded with an open forum, where delegates posed questions to the industry experts.

All EducatioNail delegates received certificates and goodie bags.

Nail File thanks the EducatioNail Workshop education providers and sponsors, namely ITEC; Schoon Scientific; Young Nails; OPI; LCN; Sparkle Cosmetics & Academy; and Calgel.

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News

New appointments at OPI Lauren Nielsen has been appointed brand manager at OPI, which falls under the Prestige Cosmetics Group umbrella.

Lauren Nielsen

Bonieta Sonnekus

Nielsen was previously brand manager at Imbalie Beauty and is a former salon owner (Allure Salon in Fourways, Johannesburg).

She obtained a B Com Marketing Management Degree at the University of Johannesburg and completed a nail technical course in acrylic, gel, silk and fibre, as well as manicure and pedicure.

Bonieta Sonnekus has been appointed national OPI trainer.

Sonnekus has worked as a nail technician, beauty therapist and salon owner for 12 years. She has a diploma in cosmetology from South West Gauteng College and a Certificate in Business Management and Marketing – NQF5 – Southern Business School.

Miss Nella comes to SA The Miss Nella range of kids’ nail polish is now available in South Africa through Beauty by Nature.

Miss Nella is an odourless nail polish aimed at ‘little princesses in a bid to emulate their mommies’.

Miss Nella’s water-based formula peels off nails, making harsh nail polish remover a thing of the past. As a faster alternative, a non-toxic nail polish remover can be used.

After opening a bottle of Miss

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Nella, the product will last up to 12 months.

There are six playful and jolly colours in the Miss Nella range, each with a fairylike shine.

“I love the industry but mostly I love OPI, so I want to share my knowledge and experience on OPI with as many people as possible.

Furthermore, I want to build on my own knowledge and education to grow the brand,” says Sonnekus.

What you’ve always wanted...

The healthy option in artificial nail care Contact us: 010 5933 293 or 079 526 1238 or info@lcn.co.za vistis us: www.lcn.co.za Follow us on:

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Ask the Experts

Rising to QUESTION: How do I handle my more challenging clients?

YVETTE NEL Deal with a more challenging client head on. Make sure they have your undivided attention.

Do not delay in looking at their concerns, and remember that the client is not always right. The client will always remain a client if treated respectfully and as a high priority.

Every client deserves the best from you. How you deal with a challenging client will be determined a lot by your personality. But no matter if you are strong and bold, or gentle and quiet, the client must always be treated with professionalism and respect.

What adds to being professional is in-depth knowledge about your professional nail products.

A confident nail technician immediately comes across as if they know what they are doing.

And if a client returns unsatisfied, you can look at the problem in a factual way based on application and product knowledge. Then you will be able to provide the solution. Reassure the client that she is valuable to you and you want to know she is satisfied.

As a professional it is your job to explain why you do not recommend this length for the client and make a suggestion on the correct length. She may not care about your recommendation, but now she is informed and knows the consequences. If she returns unsatisfied, you can humbly recall your professional advice, with reassurance that, if she accepts your recommendation, she will have excellent, lasting results.

Some clients are particular in how they want things done – whether it is technically right or not.

For example, some clients like wearing very long nails – way too long for their nail bed to handle.

In many cases, difficult clients would just like to have confirmation that you are willing to assist and accommodate them. I’ve had clients requesting a dead-straight smile line – I might not like it or agree with it, but by giving them what they have requested they remain happy and will return.

Yvette Nel started out in 2002 as a passionate nail technician working with all nail systems. In 2007 she had a complete career change, from nail tech to sales & area manager for Looking Good LCN. Nel loves sharing her knowledge and expertise with anyone who takes their business seriously.

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Communicate with your clients throughout the appointment, explaining why you do each step of the treatment. Get their agreement on your work; ask them if they are happy with

Ask the Experts

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the challenge the length, shape, etc. so they can have the opportunity to tell you what adjustments to make.

Be open-minded and make the adjustments without a ‘bad’ attitude coming through. Nothing must be too much effort for your clients. Should your client still remain dissatisfied then contact your supplier for assistance from a technical expert. V

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Ask Askthe theExperts Expert

Evelyn Jansen van Vuuren is an award-winning nail technician who has been self-employed for the past 15 years and has a home-based salon. Earlier in her career she completed a course in Somatology at TUT (Tshwane University of Technology).

EVELYN JANSEN VAN VUUREN It is important to get to know your clients and to find out what their needs are. You have to know what their working hours are, because that will make it easier to try to accommodate them according to their needs.

So, for example, if you have a client who works night shifts at a hospital and has to sleep during the day, you can try to help her as soon as she comes off duty.

Or, maybe your client is a teacher at a school, and can only have her nails done in the afternoon.

Either way you have to be careful not to make sacrifices that you can’t maintain.

I find it easier to give my clients standing appointments that will suit their time schedule, as well Nail File Issue 5

Oct/Nov 2015

as mine. You have to decide what your working hours are and your clients also need to know what your working hours are, so that you don’t find yourself working at 7pm, or even at 8pm.

And, if by any chance there is that customer who you battle to please, then try to give her a choice of at least three appointments that you have available, and give her the decision to choose the timeslot that suits her. But it is also important that she knows that the appointments that she doesn’t choose will be given away.

If you as a nail tech are someone who your clients can rely on,

knowing that you will go the extra mile, you will have clients who keep coming back.

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG I am sure that there is not a single salon or nail professional who has not, or will not, at some stage, be faced with challenging clients. While training at salons I have at times come across a nail professional saying: “Oh no! I’ve got that difficult client coming in again – I’m really not in the mood for her.” My response to

Ask the Experts

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Be confident and approachable – but don’t appear over-confident, otherwise you may come across as condescending.

Be honest – honesty is the best policy, be truthful and do not give the incorrect information or mislead your clients in any way.

By being honest you will gain your clients’ trust. If you are not sure of something rather let them know that you will find out and get back to them with the correct information.

Be accountable – be accountable for your faults and mistakes and learn from them.

this was that there is no such thing as a difficult client, some are just a little more challenging than others, and knowing how to deal with them can make all the difference. This was of course responded to with: “No, she is just plain difficult and you have no idea just how difficult she can be!”

I really do believe that how you say or do something can make all the difference. Sometimes it’s as simple as giving the client a bit of TLC, being understanding and friendly, and making them feel that you are there for them. Some of my most challenging clients became my best clients.

Here are some useful tips to handling challenging clients: Communicate effectively – good communication skills are vital in order to ensure a good

relationship between yourself and your clients. No matter how you feel, you should always do your best to be polite.

Be profession\al – always be professional. You will only gain more respect from your clients by being professional in your attitude and approach. There is a very common saying that goes: ‘Familiarity breeds contempt’.

Don’t think because you have known a client for a long time that you can say and do what you want. Never make comments about a client’s weight, looks or religion, and keep personal problems and conversations out of the working environment.

Be courteous, polite and respectful – always be respectful of your clients no matter what their age.

Be responsible – legal responsibility rests with the professional when a treatment is performed. Never perform a treatment against your better judgment.

Feedback – it is vital to know how your clients view you, your service, the quality of your work and your salon, to see if there are any areas in which you can improve.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 26 years and consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

Nail File Issue 5 Oct/Nov 2015

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UP

Business

Stocking

If you don’t have sufficient products in the salon to perform a treatment, or have retail products to sell for home care, then your clients are just going to go elsewhere, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

R

etaining and maintaining your stock levels in the nail salon is a vital component of good business practice.

Nail services today have become more of need than just a luxury service, which means that there are far more clients walking into salons and expecting to be assisted immediately.

Software There are software programmes that can also assist you to monitor your stock levels.

However, if you can’t afford such software than the following information should assist you: • Forecast and set a projected profit statement – This can be very helpful when placing an initial opening order and purchasing stock. It needs to be realistic though and over a fixed time period.

• Stay on top of your game – Remember that colours, styles and trends change constantly, Nail File Issue 5

Oct/Nov 2015

so be careful not to overstock on certain items that may just be a short-term novelty.

• Plan – As is often said, ‘If you fail to plan, you plan to fail’. Make sure you track and keep an inventory of the professional products you require on a daily basis and stock up accordingly. When these products get to a level where you know they will only last another week or so, place your order. Not all product suppliers are able to deliver stock and products at the drop of a hat, so take this into consideration.

• Back-up plan – Should you run out of products, make sure you have a back-up plan and place to get some emergency stock if required.

Retail stock It’s difficult for most salons to determine how much retail product to order, as you don’t

know whether a product is going to sell like hot cakes or not. You could order too much of a particular item that just ends up sitting there, or you could sell out of something that proves to be hugely popular. You will be able determine over time which products sell well, so make sure you have enough stock of them at all times.

A great way to know upfront which products to stock in large quantities is to link your retail with after care products that will provide clients with service longevity.

Taking on new products Prior to taking on new products, do some research to determine whether it’s a good idea or not. Look at articles and press releases, who is using the products and what professionals think about them.

Business

If you’re still not sure, ask the supplier for some samples, get your clients to try them and ask for their feedback. If you do decide to invest in new products, introduce them into your salon slowly as some clients are very set in their ways.

Stock control It’s vitally important to make sure you control your stock, so conduct regular stock takes for both your retail and professional products.

Retail stock can be measured against what stock was on hand and what was sold, this way you can see whether there are any products that have gone missing.

Make sure that all products handed out to staff are being used for professional use, and are accounted for and properly documented with the description of the product and the date it was issued. Once the product has been used up, be sure to document it once again with the ‘used by’ date next to the date of issue. This way you will be able to measure what was used against the services that were performed, to see whether there was any misuse or wastage.

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It’s vitally important to make sure you control your stock, so conduct regular stock takes for both your retail and professional products.

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Style Savvy

All I want for

Christmas

Your client’s nails are the perfect canvas to adorn to match all things Christmas, so glam them up for the festive party season.

Y

our clients will most certainly not be wanting to attend any fabulous festive parties with tips and toes that look drab and boring. As a nail tech you have an array of shimmering shades to choose from, from the coolest and palest of pastels that look like glistening snow, to the more traditional, warm ‘Christmassy’ tones in bright reds to match Rudolf ’s nose, or a rich emerald-green or deep electric blue.

Why not even add some stars or stripes?

Embellish and bejewel nails with gold, silver or even bronze glitter and rhinestone sparkles, to resemble bright, shiny baubles and twinkling lights. For something a little more fun and creative, apply a snowman,

Akzentz Luxio Mirage

Akzentz Luxio Garnet

LCN Glitter Gel

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Style Savvy

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Nail House Willows nail art with snowman

Christmas tree or reindeer to the nails – it’s bound to spread some cheer.

There are the most stunning colour variations, as well as exciting ideas, available in a variety of nail coatings, to create the most dazzling chip-free combinations and fabulous works of art. So nail techs have no reason not to be inspired and let clients show off the prettiest party nails ever against a glass of sparkling bubbly, to complement their pretty party dresses and sassy sandals. Who knows what colourful surprises the party season could bring? Remember though, it is all going to be up to whether you’ve been naughty or nice …

Wishing you all a joyous and colourful festive holiday season!

iZ Classic Christmas

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Step by Step

Rudolf the Red-nosed Reindeer This fun, festive nail art look was created by Bio Sculpture Gel.

1.

Select festive Colour Gels of your choice. Apply a Bio Sculpture Base Gel layer. Cure. Apply two layers of Colour Gel. Cure each layer. (We chose no.3 Snow White.) Follow with a grip layer of Soft Gel. Cure. Dual cleanse. (This layer will give a 3D effect to the cartoon art.) Form Rudolf’s head & ears with a different Colour Gel, using the French Brush. Cure. Shape his horns with a third Colour Gel, using the Dotting Tool /Upper Arch/Art Brush. Cure.

2.

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Form Rudolf’s red nose with your choice of red Colour Gel, using the French Brush.

Cure.

Oct/Nov 2015

3.

Create two dots to form the eyes with no.3 Snow White.

Cure. Apply a grip layer of Soft Gel. Cure. Dual cleanse. (This layer will give a 3D effect to the eyes.)

Step by Step

4.

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Create two smaller dots inside the eyes with no.2017 Licorice. Cure.

5.

Create a reflection spot with no.3 Snow White. Cure. Apply the appropriate strengthening gel to seal the nail art. Cure.

Dual cleanse and refine.

Apply Gloss Gel for shine. Cure.

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Salon Focus

A new addition A new nail & make-up bar, nestled within the perennially busy Tyrone Avenue shopping district in Parkview, Johannesburg, has been operating under the radar since June, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

W

alking into Added Touch, one is struck with how pretty the salon is. A decorative screen separates the reception area from the rest of the shop; an ornate chandelier hangs in the centre of the room, while the entire back wall is covered in an attractive monochrome wall paper. Four stately wing-back chairs, which double as manicure/ pedicure stations, are positioned on one side of the salon, with a mirrored, diamanté-studded dressing table on the other, alongside elegant shelves housing retail goods.

tints are also offered here, as is waxing.

Open the door at the back of the salon and you will find yourself in a treatment room, which serves as the make-up and eyelash extension studio. Lash and brow

Owner Helene Bramwell, whose well-established beauty salon, The Mask, is situated further down on Tyrone Avenue, turned to Celeste Van Lingen and Lyrene

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Tina Fehilly

Zimmerman of INCdecor for guidance in terms of design for Added Touch.

Says Bramwell: “Their patience was unbelievable, as was their ability to understand our needs.

Celeste and Lyrene kept it

Salon Focus

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simple, practical and decidedly not over the top – in other words, exactly what we needed. I also had an Austrian cabinet maker install the appropriate cupboards and display units.”

Complementary business Commenting on the motivation for opening a dedicated nail & make-up salon, Bramwell points out that while The Mask has always offered a manicure & pedicure service, it is primarily a skincare centre.

“It is, therefore, a place for quiet and relaxation time. For that reason we wanted to create another environment fairly close by where we could accommodate clients who want to bring friends or family members with them to enjoy nail and make-up services. This was not possible at The Mask, hence the need to extend to other premises.”

Therapists Nastassja Kean and Tina Fehilly, who run Added Touch, say: “We wanted to offer more a flexible and social space, where we can accommodate people V Nail File Issue 5 Oct/Nov 2015

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Salon Focus

Nastassja Kean

of all ages and from all walks of life.”

Bramwell reports that her clients from The Mask are ‘excited and thrilled’ about Added Touch. “I believe the salon will certainly be successful because an ‘added touch’ is always needed.”

She admits that to date she has been low-key about marketing Added Touch as she and the team are still creating ‘the ideal client experience’, and, once that is formalised, she will market in earnest.

To that end the Added Touch website is currently being created.

Top brands As Bramwell points out, The Mask enjoys an excellent

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Tina Fehilly and Nastassja Kean

reputation that Added Touch must complement, hence the need for top brands, such as OPI, CND, Gelish, NSI, Medi Pedi, MUD, Kryolan and Babor.

“We wanted the best brands available and many of them have unique qualities,” states Bramwell.

Nail services include manicures & pedicures, acrylic, gel, gel polish, tips, nail art and paraffin wax.

“Our signature treatment is the Deluxe Manicure & Pedicure, which is very popular,” says Fehilly. “We incorporate a hot stone massage in the pedicure.”

Kean elaborates on the salon’s make-up services: “We offer various different make-up services, including bridal make-up, matric dance, special occasions, theme parties, face painting for kids, special effects – as in the gory stuff – as well as individual or group classes.”

Next step Bramwell is looking to add another therapist to the Added Touch team and considers herself very fortunate in already having Kean and Fehilly on board.

“Nastassja and Tina are passionate, dedicated and enthusiastic about Added Touch,” continues Bramwell.

“They really extend themselves and

Salon Focus

not only ‘talk the talk,’ but ‘walk the walk’. Our new therapist will have to be someone with the right attitude, dedication

and commitment. She must also fit in with Added Touch and the Parkview Community as a whole.”

The School of Design E.MI Distribution and E.MI School has finally arrived in South Africa!

The E.MI Company presents thousands of the latest and exclusive ready-made solutions, developed by Ekaterina Miroshnichenko, a World Champion Nail Designer and participant of the development of unique materials and accessories for nail art.

The E.MI Mission is to help every nail technician to elicit their potential and feel like a real artist!

We offer a wide range of fabulous art courses.

E.MI Courses will help improve and expand your nail art skills.

Contact us for course information: Kempton Park - Head Office (Yolande Bekker) Tel: 011 393 2791 (opt 3) E-mail: info@emi-sa.co.za Facebook: E.MI South Africa. Distribution and Training

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In the Market

Product

Hub

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.

Caring for cuticles Cuticare from Wondernail is a conditioning treatment oil formulated for cuticles and nails.

It contains Vitamin A and E oil to replenish lost moisture and restore elasticity. Wheat Germ Oil has been added to encourage and stimulate healthy nail growth. Cuticare also contains Ginkobiloba, Carrot Oil, Epidermin Oil, Tea Tree and Bergamot Oil. 011 450 0754

Fact ‘file’

LCN’s Handle Exchangeable File Profi Pink is a re-usable file for hygienic filing of nails, while the Exchangeable Filing Surface Profi Pink comprises self-adhesive professional filing surfaces with padding. The Handle Bow Exchangeable File Profi Pink is a re-usable file and the Bow-Shaped Exchangeable Filing Surface has professional filing surfaces.

010 593 3293

Venetian splendour

OPI introduces its new collection, Venice.

The collection is rich with romance and passion. From the ‘Amore at the Grand Canal’ to the ‘My Gondola or Yours’, buying this collection is ‘A Great Opera-tunity’.

011 325 1000

Striking gold

SpaRitual Gold delivers technology that fuses the brand’s Flexible Color with its Flexible Topcoat to create a durable, scratch-resistant, high-shine finish that doubles the wear of your manicure. All 24 Gold Flexible Colors and Flexible Topcoat feature the patented Gold Cap for easy opening and precise application.

021 552 6999

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In the Market

Natural whites With the five new Natural White Gels from Magnetic Nail Design, the nail tech can choose the right colour for the free edge and exactly match the client’s nails. With this new technique, you’re finished much more quickly and there’s no need to do a back-fill because it will grow out invisible. Broken natural nails can be fixed without being visible.

011 869 9111

Anti-fungal focus

Positioned as an anti-bacterial and anti-fungal cuticle treatment, Elim Cuticle MD contains a blend of eight oils and two flower extracts to keep cuticles in peak condition. The heart of the formulation is Coconut Oil, which is also a natural SPF for the nail and cuticle and protects against bacteria and fungi.

021 553 2309

All the products, tools, gels and tips in the world mean nothing if you’re not completely comfortable using them. That’s why our customer service and the relationships we have with our nail techs are truly the most important thing we do here at Young Nails.

 

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Nail Health

In the first of a new series of articles in Nail File, Sonette van Rensburg investigates myths and bogus remedies for nail disorders and diseases.

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t’s amazing how many people suddenly become experts and have a quick fix or remedy for certain nail and skin conditions, diseases and disorders. Although some nail professionals undergo extensive training and have a good general knowledge about nails, it does not mean that they can treat or make recommendations on nail conditions. We are not doctors, our role is to perform the procedures professionally and safely and make sure we use the products correctly.

Diseases and disorders of the nails and skin can occur for various reasons, such as harmful manicuring or incorrect

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Nail Health

enhancement application techniques, a client’s selfinflicted trauma or her medical status and nutritional habits.

Here are some of the more common problems you may encounter in the salon and the bogus beliefs, myths and remedies that are sometimes recommended by nail techs.

As a true nail professional you must be able to recognise the problems and know what to do. Some diseases and disorders of the skin and nails can be very harmful and contagious.

Myth – petroleum jelly is a good moisturiser. Being a product that is not naturally derived and consists mainly of petroleum, it acts as a barrier and stops oils and moisture from penetrating your skin and nails. Therefore it has no real benefit as a moisturiser other than acting as a barrier. Rather use a good-quality hand lotion or cream, which has naturally derived oils that can hydrate, nourish, moisturise and keep the nails and skin in a good condition.

Myth – soaking your hands, feet and nails in a hand or foot soak will moisturise and hydrate them. The answer is yes and no.

There is nothing more relaxing than soaking your hands or feet in warm water with a lovely softening soaking solution added to it, but this has both advantages and disadvantages. This step usually assists in cleansing and sanitising the nails and skin, as well as softening the eponychium, making it easier

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to lift and roll back to expose non-living tissue. The biggest drawback is that due to the hydrophilic structure of the nail, it absorbs and retains water. If the nails have a long soak, the moisture content in the nail increases rapidly, resulting in the nail enamel peeling from the nail.

Don’t stop soaking; just shorten the soak time to approximately three minutes at the most.

Myth – acetate-based removers are better to use than acetone.

Acetate is also a solvent and like any solvent, even water, it strips the natural oils and moisture from the nail plate and surrounding skin, leaving it dehydrated. However, this is only temporary. so make sure that after removing nail polish, you insist that your clients wash their hands thoroughly with soap and water.

To replenish moisture, nourish and rehydrate them and make sure you perform a good manicure using good quality products that contain ingredients that will return the nails and skin back to their original condition. V Nail File Issue 5 Oct/Nov 2015

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Nail Health

Myth – Myths on how to treat discoloured nails.

Discolouration of the nail plate can be caused by a number of things, such as smoking, food and over-use of chemicals.

Soaking them in lemon juice or bleach is not going to remove the discolouration and make them look bright and clean again. In fact, bleach will only dehydrate your nails and could possibly discolour them even more in the long run. Buffing them will remove the very surface layer and can help a little, however be careful not to over-buff or buff too often. Always buff gently in the direction of the nail growth from cuticle to free edge, with a high-grit buffer to prevent causing damage. Nourish them with good-quality cuticle oil and shine them to seal in moisture to prevent them from discolouring too quickly.

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Myth – white marks or spots on your nails are due to a lack of calcium. Not true. This condition is known as leukonychia spots and is caused due to the nail cells not flattening and trauma to the nail plate. Trauma can be caused by knocking the nails or harsh manicuring techniques. Drinking litres of milk, or taking calcium supplements is definitely not going to help or benefit your nails in any way. The nail plate is made of keratin, which is a protein and contains only the minutest amount of calcium.

Myth – ridges and brittle nails are caused because of old age. Not entirely true, ridges and brittleness are caused due to dehydration of the nail plate through overuse of chemicals and lack of care. It occurs more commonly in older people due to the fact that they take less care of their nails as they get older.

Use good quality cuticle oil on a regular basis to nourish and rehydrate them. Ridges can also be gently buffed to make them not so visible and prominent, especially when wearing nail polish. Follow the same procedure as for discoloured nails.

Look out for Busting Myths Part Two in the Jan/Feb 2016 issue of Nail File.

Step by step

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Pure geometry This striking geometric nail art look was created by Tania Oliver of Bio Sculpture Gel. three colours for this design. Prepare 1. Select the nails as normal. Apply a layer of Bio

Sculpture Base Gel on the entire nail. Cure.

the design with No. 3 Snow 2. Create White Gel by drawing lines with the tip of an Upper Arch Brush. Cure.

each shape with two layers of each 3. Fill chosen colour, using the tip of the Upper

Arch Brush. Work from the lightest to the darkest colour or from closest to the cuticles towards the free edge. Repeat until the desired effect is achieved. Cure.

appropriate Bio Sculpture 4. Apply strengthening gel and correct the shape of the upper arch. Cure.

Bio Sculpture’s Nail Cleanser and 5. Use a nail wipe to remove the sticky residue and refine if necessary.

off by applying a layer of 6. Finish Bio Sculpture’s Gloss Gel for shine.

Cure. Remove sticky residue with Bio Sculpture Polish Remover.

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Gel Nails

Gels, gels and more gels

W Sonette van Rensburg looks at the different types of gel on the market.

e have learnt through previous articles in Professional Beauty magazine, as well as factual information obtained through well-known product chemist Doug Schoon, that all nail enhancement systems are from the same acrylic family.

Thus referring to the liquid & powder system as only being acrylic would be incorrect, as gel also contains acrylic.

Being a monomer, liquid & powder requires two

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components – the liquid that is made of ethyl methacrylate, and a polymer, which is the powder to form a coating.

A gel is a premixed, onecomponent system made of monomers (or acrylates) that polymerise when cured under certain light. However, both systems require an initiator for the systems to polymerise and create a solid durable nail coating. The initiator in the liquid & powder system is BPO and is found in the

Gel Nails

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According to the Nail Manufacturers Council (NMC), nail enhancement products are safe for the natural nail if properly applied, maintained and removed. If any nail damage occurs due to an enhancement, the NMC cites over-filing or improper practices during application or removal as the most likely culprit. For optimum application and removal, it is important to adhere to the gel manufacturer’s instructions and not to mix gel systems.

powder, while gel is cured and polymerised under either a UV (ultra-violet) light or LED light, which reacts with the photo initiators within the gel. The molecular chains in a gel system are known as oligomers, and are shorter than the polymer chains in a liquid & powder system.

These allow the light to penetrate the gel to aid in the curing and polymerisation process.

Gel was first introduced into the nail industry in the early 1980s and could only be buffed and filed off the natural nail. This put many technicians and clients off at first, as they believed it damaged the natural nail plate, until they understood that, with proper professional training, there is no need or reason to harm the natural nail, thus blowing claims that one system is better for the nail than another right out of the water.

Wide choice Nowadays there are many different types of gel systems available that can soak off, with the newest gel product innovation being the paint-on colour gels or gel polishes, which have more of a gel than lacquer-like consistency.

Although colour gel was not totally new to the market, the first gel polish available in a bottle with a brush the same as polish, was introduced just less than 10 years ago. This trend grew rapidly in popularity and is still to this day on the rise.

Today there are so many gel systems available to accomplish just about any service and look, creating from the most naturallooking sculpted enhancements, to tip overlays, and natural nail overlays in either a single colour or French application, as well as chip-free semi-permanent coloured coatings or manicures.

Two groups Gel systems are broken down into two groups, hard gels and soft gels.

Furthermore, gels also differ in viscosity, colour and the type of light used to cure and polymerise them. Either UV or LED light can be used to cure gel depending on the type of gel and its molecular make-up. Most coloured gel overlays and gel polishes, which are classed as soft gels, are now being cured under an LED light rather than a UV light, as the curing time is quicker. V

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Gel Nails

Features and comparison of hard & soft gels Hard Gels

Both Hard & Soft Gel

Soft Gels

Tighter and more dense molecular structure

Requires natural nail preparation

Elongated and less dense molecular structure

For creating longer nail enhancements

Available in a variety of colours

For creating short-term enhancements

Used for sculpting and building stronger, more durable, nail enhancements

Stored in UV protected containers

Used for creating semi-permanent coatings and colour manicures

Better longevity and longer wear

Can be both UV & LED light-cured

Can wear and chip sooner on the free edges

Takes longer to cure due to less photo initiators

High-gloss finish and shine

Cures faster due to additional photo initiators

Can be used to create 3D nail art

Offers more flexibility for overlays over natural nails

Removal – Can only be removed through filing

Removal – can be soaked in acetone

Hard gel was the first type of gel to come onto the market and is known as traditional gel. It has a tighter molecular structure and low molecular weight, which is why acetone cannot penetrate and break it down. It takes longer to cure and therefore works best cured with a UV light, but can be cured under an LED light depending on the viscosity.

Hard gel is a much better option and perfect for clients who are looking for longer more durable nails, as you can build on top of a tip application and also free-form sculpt with it. In addition, hard gels can also be applied over liquid & powder as a final layer to seal in the nail enhancement and give it a durable high-gloss shine and finish. 3-D Nail Art can also be created with a hard gel. Some technicians believe that you are only able to successfully paint onto a hard gel, however with the latest gel technology you are able to paint over soft gels as well. Be careful, though, when encasing nail art between layers of gel, not to encase a hard gel over a soft gel.

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Gel Nails

There are many different types of gel systems available that can soak off, with the newest gel product innovation being the paint-on colour gels or gel polishes, which have more of a gel than lacquer-like consistency.

Soft gels and gel polish inevitably start off as a hard gel; it is the technology used and solvents which are added to the composition that make it easier and quicker to apply, and which differentiate different brands from one another. Soft gels have a less dense, more elongated, molecular structure, and, because there is more space between the cross-linking molecules, solvents such as acetone are able to penetrate and break down the product.

They also cure faster, due to more photo initiators that are added to speed up the process of polymerisation. Although soft gels don’t last quite as long and are not as durable as hard gels, they certainly last a lot longer than regular polish and are a great alternative for creating more flexible, longer-lasting, coatings that don’t chip and peel as easily.

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Examples of loose nails in various stages of degeneration.

This can happen when a loose nail is ignored.

uniquely aids in restoring, maintaining and protection of

beautiful nails The first indication of a nail becoming loose, is a change in it’s colour from pink to cream (see bottom 3 photos) This may lead to degeneration & fungal infection Fix-4-Nails ® is distributed through Pharmacies

and Nail Care Clinics in South Africa and Namibia and online to other parts of the world Contact Willie Fourie cc Tel. +27(0)861 999 907

info@fixfornails.co.za

www.loosenails.com

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Know your Chemicals

Mani- and pedi-wise How do the ingredients used in manicure and pedicure products work and how safe are they? Sonette van Rensburg provides the answers.

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anicure and pedicure products are formulated to cleanse, soften, exfoliate, hydrate, nourish, moisturise and massage the skin and nails. These products contain many different types of ingredients that offer different functions.

As with all products, prolonged use and repeated over exposure to any ingredient or chemical such as surfactants, actives, acids, abrasives, essential oils and other ingredients could be potentially harmful to a nail professional, causing skin irritation, rashes, burns and allergic reactions if proper work practices are not followed.

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Hand & foot soaks: These come in the form of foaming liquids, fizzy soaking beads, softening flakes, hydrating crystals or creamy oil based soaks. All will contain some type of a surfactant which assists with cleansing.

Soaking solutions could also contain minerals, oils, honey and herbal extracts to simultaneously soften and condition the skin.

Exfoliators & scrubs: The purpose of doing a scrub or exfoliation is to remove dead skin cells and impurities from the surface of the skin.

Scrubs are commonly made up of water-based emulsions, with a combination of one or more other ingredients such

Know your Chemicals

as alpha or beta hydroxyl acids, and a coarser ingredient like fruit kernels or finely crushed nuts, pumice polymers and sand crystals. Some scrubs also contain sea salt or sugar, usually suspended in an oil base. These ingredients easily dissolve with water and heat, and combined with a surfactant, break Most people down the oil for easy removal. Pedicure believe that all chemicals scrubs are usually are dangerous and harmful, a little stronger but chemicals will only and contain ingredients harm you if they are used to assist with incorrectly and if you breaking down overexpose yourself dead skin cells.

to them.

Callous eliminators: These products are made up of stronger, more active ingredients from either a low pH (acidic) or high pH (alkaline) derivative, to break down tough, thick callouses.

Most exfoliating and callous removal products are applied with the hands and used over the skin’s surface in firm circular or stroking movements. Other types can be applied, left to dry and then gently peeled or filed off the skin. Always wear gloves when working with exfoliants and callous removal products, or alternatively use a spatula or brush to apply them with.

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Cuticle remover: Most cuticle removers are made from similar ingredients as callous eliminators, however not quite as strong. Once again the active ingredient will break down the protein bonds in the dead skin cells making them easier to remove. Use products such as these sparingly and carefully as overuse can cause burns and blisters. They can even have the opposite effect on the skin and instead breaking down callouses can actually cause them to thicken and the skin to become drier.

After using products such as these, always follow up with a good quality moisturiser and a protective balm or barrier to seal in moisture and protect the skin.

Masks: A preparation composed of clay or mud, with added ingredients such as essential oils, herbal and fruit extracts and moisturising ingredients. Masks have different functions on the skin depending on the formulation.

There are also self-heating masks which are water-free with butylene glycol, or other ingredients that create a heat reaction upon application, for deeper penetration of product.

Some masks can have a restructuring and regenerating V

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Know your Chemicals

action, while others have a vascular effect causing erythema. They also aid in the desquamation or exfoliation process, leaving the skin feeling cleansed, soft, stimulated and refined.

Paraffin wax: Made from a mixture of waxes and oils derived from bees wax, paraffin wax or mineral oils. Paraffin wax is warmed before being applied to the skin. It aids in increased circulation, opens pores, softens the skin, removes waste and increases absorption.

Moisturisers: For the skin to remain smooth and supple, it should maintain a balanced and adequate moisture level. Using the appropriate lotion or cream conditions the skin and adds to the skin’s moisture levels. Certain ingredients will also encourage cell renewal and regeneration, replace essential oils and moisture to the skin, prevent dehydration, resulting in a more hydrated plump looking skin.

Moisturisers are available in many different forms, from very thick buttery type creams, to light lotions. They are usually water-based emulsions with added oils, which could be naturally derived or mineral, along with other beneficial ingredients like antioxidants

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(vitamins) to enhance the product. In addition they may also contain other ingredients such as cetyl and stearyl alcohol, isopropyl palmitate and glyceryl sterate. Humectants like propylene glycol or glycerin are also often added to prevent moisture loss.

Massage mediums: Massage has many benefits other than only providing well-being and relaxation, it stimulates circulation, keeps the skin supple, smooth and soft.

Massage assists in improving and enhancing the skin’s appearance and assisting products to penetrate deeper into the skin, in addition to improving skin tone and providing visible, aesthetic results for the skin. Massage lotions have added ingredients such as silicones, oils, or esters to increase lubrication and to provide and enhance ‘slip’ properties for ease of massage.

Polishes and other nail chemicals: In Nail File Issue 1 we covered and spoke about chemicals such as acetone, IPA, enhancement chemicals and polishes, their ingredients, how they work and the effects they could have.

Know your Chemicals

Best practices to reduce over exposure It’s almost impossible to avoid all chemicals, even the ones that are thought to be harmful. In Issue 4’s Know your chemicals article we spoke about playing it safe and how to avoid overexposure. Here are few points to recap: • Never stock or buy products that are not labelled with the ingredients. Sometimes the ingredient listing of a product can be found on the product label, although manufacturers don’t always list all ingredients in products for professional use due to products being copied and sold on the grey market.

• Make sure you ask for Material Safety Data Sheets associated with the product, to see whether there are some potentially harmful ingredients in them and how to handle a situation should a problem occur.

• Ensure good extraction and ventilation in the salon.

• Keep trash cans tightly closed.

• Use the correct and required amounts of the product when performing services.

• Wear gloves and protective clothing.

• Wash hands before and after use.

The best advice I can give you is to reduce your exposure as much as possible by following safe and professional practices,

Preservatives and parabens Methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and isobutylparaben – wow! What a mouthful and there are probably many other preservatives and parabens around, most of which are found in many beauty preparations and products.

Preservatives and especially parabens have received quite a bad rap over the past couple of years, ever since studies were conducted in 2004, when it was first believed that parabens could be responsible for causing breast cancer.

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really that bad? Parabens were originally added to products to prevent the growth of bacteria in products and food. The question here has been – aren’t these organisms potentially more harmful than parabens and preservatives themselves?

And what about the alternative ingredients which are being added in place of them – are they more safe and are they doing what they are meant to be doing?

We will be covering this topic more extensively in an upcoming issue, so stay tuned!

Although parabens have been used since the late 1940s, they have come into the limelight causing much debate, raising questions as to whether they are potentially harmful or not.

This has caused many brands to develop products that are said to be preservative and paraben free. Consequently many other brands followed suit, as many consumers would not purchase a product if it didn’t claim the same. It’s been a case of if you can’t beat them, join them.

Are parabens and preservatives

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Winning Ways

Vintage Memories This beautiful and intricate design by Tracey Lee was the winning entry in the Photographic category of the Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition.

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outh African-born, Netherlands-based nail technician and educator, Tracey Lee, really enjoys working with foil gel and the different types of foil.

“This gives one the ability to create lovely frames and gives the effect of liquid gold,” explains Lee. “I had this in mind when I was thinking of the Vintage Memories theme – picture frames, elaborate curls, browns and golds, and then finishing off in matte to create the desired effect.”

Photographer: Henny Sep

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Winning Ways

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PINKY

NAILS 1. Wash hands.

2. Push back cuticles with a metal cuticle pusher.

3. Remove dead skin cells with a cuticle bit and electric file.

4. Buff surface of the nail with a 180 buffer.

5. Dust off the dust with a manicure brush.

6. Dehydrate the nails.

1. Using brown acrylic paint, paint the entire surface of the nail.

2. Using white acrylic paint and a gel sponge, sponge from the top right of the finger at an angle towards the free edge.

4. Mix black and brown acrylic paint and using a fine brush create the idea of text on the surface.

5. Paint an arch at the cuticle area with white acrylic paint.

3. Using a sharp dotting tool, lightly scratch the surface of the nail to create an ‘aged, damaged’ look to the surface.

7. Apply primer on nails.

8. Apply forms.

9. Sculpt out nails using blush initially. Pinch into shape and then finish sculpting using camouflage pink and blush at the cuticle area.

10. File out and shape all nails.

11. Push back the cuticles again in order to polish very close to the cuticle.

12. Clean and dehydrate nails again.

8. Seal with top gel.

Cleanse.

6. Cure and apply the foil to create the liquid gold arch and curls.

7. Seal with matte top gel.

9. Paint an arch on the border of the white paint using foil gel.

Create decorative curls on the free edge using the foil gel.

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Winning Ways

1. Create the smile line with a mix of white and brown acrylic paint.

RING FINGER

2. Shadow along 1/3 of the nail with brown paint to create a vintage look. Create dots with a mix of black and brown paint.

3. Create curls with black and brown acrylic paint.

Using gold acrylic paint, add some additional curls inside the original ones.

4. Using white builder gel, create 3D hearts. Cure and cleanse.

5. Add some shadowing around the outline of the heart using aquarelle brown acrylic paint.

6. Create the outline of the smile line and line down the 1/3 of the nail using the foil gel. Cure.

7. Press gold foil onto the cured foil gel.

MIDDLE FINGER 1. Create the smile line with a mix of white and brown acrylic paint.

2. Add a little more brown acrylic paint to the mix and shade over 2/3 of the smile line.

8. Seal with matte top gel.

3. Using brown paint, create a shadow along the border of the 1/3 of the smile line to create a vintage look.

Create dots with a mix of black and brown paint.

4. Using different shades of brown acrylic paint create lines of different thicknesses on the other 2/3 of the nail.

5. Paint an oval in white acrylic paint on the nail.

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6. Cut out a water decal of your choice in the same oval shape.

MIDDLE FINGER - continued

7. Insert decal into water and when removed from the backing place on the oval.

8. Using aquarelle technique, apply brown acrylic paint to add a subtle, aged shade over the water decal.

9. Seal with top gel.

10. Create an outline and extravagant frame using foil gel.

11. Cure and press on the gold foil gel.

12. Create a dome or encapsulation using builder gel clear. Cure.

13. Seal with matte top gel.

V

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Winning Ways

INDEX FINGER 1. Using brown acrylic paint, paint the entire surface of the nail.

2. Using white acrylic paint and a gel sponge, sponge from the top right of the finger at an angle towards the free edge.

3. Using a sharp dotting tool, lightly scratch the surface of the nail to create an ‘aged, damaged’ look to the surface.

4. Mix black and brown acrylic paint and using a fine brush create the idea of text on the surface.

5. Paint an arch at the free edge area with white acrylic paint.

6. Seal with top gel. Cleanse.

7. Using foil gels outline the arch and create curls at the cuticle area.

Cure.

8. Press gold foil onto the foil gel.

9. Seal with matte top gel.

THUMB

1. Using brown and white acrylic paint, create a smile line.

2. Create vertical lines using brown acrylic paint.

3. Using a mixture of brown and black acrylic paint, create a row of curls between the brown vertical lines.

4. Using gold acrylic paint, create crisscross designs on the vertical brown lines.

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5. Create a frame with foil gel.

Cure.

Winning Ways

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THUMB - continued

7. Using white builder gel, create a stone inside the frame. Cure.

6. Press gold foil onto the foil gel.

8. Using the technique stated above create the text effect on the stone.

9. Seal with matte top gel.

Vintage Memories Nail File Issue 5 Oct/Nov 2015

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Q&A

Top Tech Talk

Where are you based?

Vancouver, Canada.

For how many years have you been in the nail industry?

Seventeen years.

What first prompted your interest in nails?

At age 19 I wasn’t ready for university so I went to visit family in Boston, Massachusetts. My aunt had a nail salon and I hung out at the salon during the day. It was there that I saw how interesting the industry was.

In this issue of Nail File, we put the spotlight on world-renowned international artist and educator for OPI Products International, Danny Phung, who visited South Africa at the end of August.

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Given that working in the nail salon industry is typically viewed as a career for females, were you ever teased by your family or friends for wanting to enter this industry?

Not at all. My whole family does nails – from aunts to uncles – so they encouraged me. My guy friends did think it was weird, though.

Q&A

Please give a brief trajectory of your career.

Being a nail tech, business owner and entrepreneur, as well as an educator, I wear many hats.

This gives me the asset of understanding and tackling the nails industry from all angles.

I first started as a nail tech working in the US for family and friends in 1998. I moved back to Canada in 2000 and managed a couple of salons before ultimately buying the salon where I worked in 2003. I started out with three nail techs,

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best in us and helps us to improve and network with our peers in the industry.

However, that being said, I do train and mentor nail techs for competitions.

What has been your biggest career achievement? and, when I sold it in 2012, I had 16 nail techs and four receptionists working for me. In total I’ve owned three salons so far in my young career.

Have you won any awards as a nail tech?

I actually haven’t competed in any nail competitions as I’ve been too busy with owning/ managing and educating globally. Hopefully one day I will have the opportunity to compete. I do feel that it’s important to compete, because it brings out the

My biggest achievement to date was in owning the most successful nail salon in Vancouver during my time with the business. I took a business that was failing to the very top! I was able to combine my artistic side with my business side to achieve that. I’m very proud of that accomplishment.

A lot of people asked me why I decided to sell the salon if it was so successful. Well, let me tell you that, in business, one of the most important rules is: ‘buy low, sell high’.

In what year did you join OPI? January 2006. V

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Q&A

Danny Phung at Professional Beauty Johannesburg

How did the OPI opportunity come about?

I met a great nail tech/educator for OPI Products at one of the road shows in Vancouver. We started talking and he felt I would be a great educator and asked if I would like to take my nail career to a whole different level. I said yes. And now I travel the world educating for OPI Products.

What appeals to you about the OPI brand?

They are the #1 salon brand globally, that’s no easy task to achieve. OPI is a quality, trendsetting and iconic brand.

They share the same fascination for colour as we all do. I also love how they brought names to nail lacquers to give them an identity. Prior to that, nail polish wasn’t fun or sexy – it was just a number associated with a colour.

What nail trends does OPI predict for the future?

Nail art! It’s here to stay. Everyone is wearing it and talking about it, Nail File Issue 5

Oct/Nov 2015

as well as using all social media platforms to entice, engage and inspire it.

pink first and then put on the white after. That’s how the majority of the nail world is working nowadays.

Having judged the 2015 Nail Competition at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, what was your overall impression of the standard of entries?

As a nail artist yourself, what style or type of nail art inspires you the most?

I didn’t get to judge the hands-on portion of the competition, but I would really have liked to. I judged the Nail Art category and what I saw was very good. There was lots of creativity with very detailed work. I loved it!

In what areas do think that South African nail techs need to improve?

What I did notice was that the majority of the nail techs in the competition were using the traditional method of sculpting the French manicure look, applying white first to create the ‘smile’ line and then applying the pink afterwards. I think they should try sculpting the ‘smile’ line with the

I love art that is associated with fashion runways, as well as geometric lines. Negative space and sheered-out colours are a personal favourite of mine. I also love what is known as ‘Designscape’ nail art, where all five fingers show a portrait, with the star finger showing the complete design, as opposed to the traditional design repeated on all ten nails.

What is the single most important thing you impart to your students?

Education! That is the key to your future, your progression and your success. We have to constantly update ourselves and grow and evolve with this ever-changing industry. Nails are very different today than they were even five years ago.

C a l g e l

biosculpture.com