Issue 7
Mar/Apr 2016
Quick fix
Water decals in nail art
Terrific
tones Pantone colours of the year
Just like a pro
Professionalism in the salon
Control
freak Taking charge of your chemicals
tion Centre Durban International Conven
Organised by:
Sunday, 12 JUNE 2016 The Educationail workshop, is coming to DURBAN. A new educational event dedicated to Nail
In association with:
Professionals and the first one in Durban – supported by Nail
File magazine.
• Attend and learn the latest techniques • Excellent skills development • Tutorials from leading brand names • Learn how to grow your business • Nails… more than just ART!
☞
Book your seat at this EXCLUSIVE nail workshop.
For further information, visit www.probeauty.co.za or contact Sonette at sonette@probeauty.co.za
What’s inside Nail File
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18
39
20
4
20
30
Industry News
Salon Focus
Know Your Chemicals
Stay in the know
Nails on the go
In control
10
22
Ask the Experts
Winning Ways
34 / 36
Professional Beauty GCC Nail Competition
Step by Steps
14
24
Buckle up!
Business
In the Market
Do nail enhancements damage your nails?
Professionalism as a nail technician
18 Style Savvy
Product Hub
27
Salon art with water decals
39 Top Tech Talk
Lomaphungo H. Donga
Nail Health
Busting Myths Part 3
Pantone Pair
Nail File Issue 7
Mar/Apr 2016
Welcome
Issue 7
Mar/Apr 2016
Quick fix
Water decals in nail art
Terrific Pantone colours of the year
Cover: Shutterstock
V
Just like a pro
tones
Professionalism in the salon
Control
freak Taking charge of your chemicals
NAIL FILE A Professional Beauty Supplement Published by T.E. Trade Events 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 / Fax: 011 781 6079 Additional pics: www. shutterstock.com
Publisher Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk Editor Joanna Sterkowicz joanna@probeauty.co.za Art Director Ursula Wong ursula@probeauty.co.za Technical Consultant Sonette van Rensburg sonette@probeauty.co.za Advertising Sales 011 781 5970
ery few of us are lucky enough to have nails that are naturally strong enough to grow long without breaking, chipping or splitting. Hence the basis for the nail enhancement sector of the industry. But the first question customers and novice nail techs will always ask is – do nail enhancements damage the natural nail? Our esteemed panel of experts provide detailed answers to this vital question, the consensus being that only incorrect application techniques and cheap, inferior products will cause damage. In this issue we put the spotlight on the two Pantone Colours of the Year – Rose Quartz and Serenity. The fact that there are two Pantone colours for 2016, instead of just one, means that nail brands have more shades to tap into. Rose Quartz is a soft, dreamy pink, totally reminiscent of the semi-precious stone after which it is named. Serenity is an ethereal, pretty shade of blue that imparts a feeling of calm. Our Salon Focus section is devoted to Yemaya Express Nail Bars, a chain of nail bars in the form of kiosks in shopping malls and airports that provide quick services to shoppers and travellers. With several more bars set to open this year, it’s clear that Yemaya is providing a much-desired service to a specific target market. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
To advertise in Nail File, please call 011 781 5970 To contr ibute to editorial, contact Joanna To join the conversation Visit www.probeauty.co.za and follow us on Facebook and Twitter.
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News
NEWS
Information at your fingertips
LCN awards winners Top nail salons were honoured at the Looking Good LCN Awards held on 20 February at The Promenade in Pretoria East.
Lea Castro, Chantel Roetz and Isabel Fenner
Franzelle de Villiers
D
ozens of salon-owners and nail technicians attended the glamorous event, which was presided over by Looking Good LCN CEO, Lea Castro, with an entertaining Michelle Andrychuk of Fifth Avenue Collection in the MC role.
address, Castro said that the awards served to acknowledge ‘our wonderful customers’. She continued: “We are excited about
2016 as we believe it will be a significant year for us. But in order for it to be significant, we have to take action and expand the knowledge base of
At the event it was announced that new LCN collections would now be available in South Africa concurrent with their launch date in Germany. In an inspiring opening Lea Castro, Anate Van Loggerenberg, Jalani Wessels and Isabel Fenner
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News
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Here is a list of the LCN award-winners: Success Award (Highest Growth Percentage in Turnover by Area) Free State: Beauty Oasis KwaZulu-Natal: Clinic Petite Gauteng (JHB): Flawless Faces Gauteng (PTA): Franzelle De Villiers Eastern Cape: Beautiful Nails by Liezl Western Cape: Designer Digits Mpumalanga: Salon Bella Beauté North West: Forever Fabulous Image & Beauty Clinic Limpopo: La Bella Vita and Africa: African Treat Spa
the consumer, i.e. the end-user of LCN, through our marketing campaign. We will do this by training women in the art of artificial nails. “My sister, Isabel Fenner, is the Director of Training at our new training academy near our offices in Pretoria East. In the middle of the year Isabel will take educators to Germany for training. “For 2016 I want to ignite each of you with our vision. We want you to be the best you can be and to reach your full potential. I encourage you to ignite your businesses and take them to the next level.” Castro noted that in 2015 Looking Good LCN achieved ‘a spectacular growth of 23%’. She added that instead of a price increase this year, Looking Good LCN had a price adjustment at the end of February to reduce the cost of treatment.
Prestige Award (Top Performer by Area) Free State: Cara’s Wellness Centre KwaZulu-Natal: Salon Belle Nova Gauteng (JHB): R.U.B Skin & Beauty Salon Gauteng (PTA): Body Sculpting Medial Spa Eastern Cape: Beautiful Nails By Liezl Western Cape: Image Worx Mpumalanga: Sheer Elegance Health and Beauty North West: Only You Limpopo: La Bella Vita and Africa: Onyx Spa Concept Award (Exceptional Performance in a Specific Category) Top Professional Product: Body Sculpting Medical Spa Top Make-Up: Salon Bella Beauté Top Retail Hands: Perfect 10 Woodlands & Menlyn Top Retail Feet: Onyx Spa Sales Expert: Patience Mlotswa Newcomer: Wendy Kotzé Social Media: Designer Digits Excellence Award South Africa: La Bella Vita Africa: Onyx Spa
Breakthrough for EVO Bio Sculpture Gel, the inventor of the recently launched EVO Oxygenating Gel, has created a system whereby a glueless tip can be applied to the natural nail with EVO. No resin or glue is used for the application, which ensures that there is no damage to the natural nail. Watch out for Issue 8 of Nail File, which will include a step-by-step guide on this new application technique. Nail File Issue 7
Mar/Apr 2016
News
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Young Nails hosts Mentors Weekend Twenty-one Young Nails mentors from all over South Africa met at the company’s head office in Kempton Park in early February for their annual training.
T
he mentors were shown how to improve their skills, how to offer students the best training, and how to time-perfect their own skills. “Our focus was on how to improve services and survive the economic situation,” says Young Nails SA owner and founder, Yolandé Bekker. “There was a lot of brainstorming and some mentors shared business ideas,
as well as new techniques, that will further us all in the future.
“At Young Nails we believe in sharing our knowledge to the best of our ability so we focused not only on our mentors during the training weekend, but also on our nail technicians and future students.” Bekker reveals that the consensus reached was that
all training academies follow the same programme, to ensure that Young Nails maintains a high standard according to the international level. Young Nails is currently found in 60 countries around the world. “All students at our training academies can be guaranteed personal attention,” continues Bekker. “At Young Nails we believe that you’re never too old to learn.”
Gel polish soars in popularity The popularity of gel polish manicures continues to increase, with 35% growth between 2013 and 2015, according to new research by market analyst Mintel.
Some respondents stated that gel polish outlasts regular polish (30%), others found it is worth the additional cost (18%), while 16% said it makes nails look thicker.
Twenty-three percent of women have received a gel manicure in salon in the past year while 14% have used gel polish at home, the report found.
The biggest increase in usage has come from the new geleffect polishes that do not require a lamp, with 20% of women using these products in
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Mar/Apr 2016
2015 compared to just 11% the year before.
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News
IBD educator visits LA Chantelle Craycraft, IBD National Educator for Twincare International, visited the IBD head office in Los Angeles from 22 to 28 February, for a global conference.
Says Craycraft: “At Twincare International we have been working with IBD since August 2015. One of the educators from Los Angeles visited us last year and invited me to attend the international training workshop.
art training day with Lulu Desfassiaux, where we learnt how to make 3D faces with acrylic. I also learnt how to do 3D roses with petals.”
“We were exposed to new trends, what IBD will be launching this year, new products from IBD’s Nail Tek range, and new ways to do sculpting and building. In addition there was a nail
Craycraft, who was in the advanced group at the workshop, notes there were about 35 educators from all over the world present, including IBD brand ambassadors.
Biddle launches online education
International renowned nail technician and educator, Sam Biddle, has launched The Inspired Members Group, an online education programme focused on the application techniques related to nail art and design. Over a 12-month membership, nail technicians can learn many Nail File Issue 7
Mar/Apr 2016
“It was wonderful to be exposed to each other’s cultures. In terms of nail trends, it’s evident that acrylic is very big at the moment, but gels will be in play in terms of pink & white. “I feel very fortunate to have attended the event as the last time IBD had a conference of this nature was four years ago. It was a great privilege to represent Twincare International and I learnt so much,” she comments.
Says Biddle: “Topics cover one-stroke, gel polish design, acrylic design, 3D and the fan favourite category, Fantasy. The course finishes with a range of different seasonal designs suitable for the salon. “You will learn everything you need to know to be a top nail artist and develop your own style.”
different techniques, backed by continued mentoring from Biddle herself.
For more information visit www.beinspired. online or email beinspired@ sambiddle.co.uk.
hotter than you pink hello
lacquer,
MeeT Your PerFecT Gel MaTch
Color at the Speed of light
iCoNiC opi ShadeS ShiNe-iNteNSe laStS for WeeKS CUreS iN 30 SeCoNdS
NO filing required for prep NO filing required for removal
No NaIl DaMaGe
The Prestige Cosmetics Group Marlborough Gate, Hyde Lane, Hyde Park, Johannesburg Phone: 021 442 7700/ 011 325 1000 Email: OPIorders@pcgroup.co.za
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Ask the Experts
Augmenting the nails
QUESTION: Do nail enhancements damage your nails? SAM BIDDLE Nail enhancements DO NOT damage nails, people do! This is something I have learnt in my 16 years as a nail technician. Nails themselves are no longer living but exist as a source of protection, so the notion that they can be suffocated or affected in any way by enhancements is nonsense. However, improper preparation of the nail plate and traumatic removal of the enhancement will damage the natural nail. We all do it, bring our fingers to our mouths and have a little nibble on the loose edge, and soon that nibble turns into a gnawing, and, before we know it, the enhancement has just popped off.
The bond of the enhancement onto the natural nail has to stand up to the wear and tear of everyday life. Pulling off the acrylic or gel overlay is going to remove one or two of the fine layers that make up our nail plate, thus leaving a weak and thin nail. The nail plate is there to protect the fingertips so we need a good, thick layer as a shield. Preparation can damage natural nails, right before the application of enhancements. I often see nail technicians buff and file the life out of the nail plates, under the guise of proper prep. No! Stop! You are doing the very same thing as if someone was to rip off the nail, tearing at and breaking the delicate layers of
nail plate. These are waferthin layers of keratinised skin cells, which have taken months to form over the nail plate. They are your only shield and need to be treated with care. The process of removing excess non-living tissue with the file should be done at the very end of your prep, after you have used the correct pushing tool to ease the tissue away from the hard plate. It should also be done with a light buffer, like a 240 grit, and only around the cuticle area, with three quick swipes. Not by rocking back and forth over the nail plate as if you are buffing it for a competition.
Sam Biddle is renowned worldwide as a nail NEL technician and educator. She is YVETTE an international judge and competition winner and the creative director of Jealous Cow Ltd.
Nail File Issue 7
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Ask the Experts
The amount of damage that may be caused to natural nails is in the hands of the nail professional. There is a lot of information out there on how all nail enhancement products are the same because of their chemical composition, etc. One needs to seriously take into consideration how quickly things ‘improve’ and change. Surely we do not drive the same cars, or use the same type of technology in mobile devices, as we did five years ago? It is believed by ‘technology junkies’ that if you’ve missed moving with the times for six months,
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you will be too far behind to ever catch up again. In the nail industry some product ranges are still using the very same formula as when the product range was originally released. Other product houses have continual research to develop innovative product formulas with the most advanced ingredients that science has to offer. It is a fact that some product ranges contains ingredients that are harsh and very dehydrating on natural nails. V
Yvette Nel started out in 2002 as a passionate nail technician working with all nail systems. In 2007 she had a complete career change, from nail tech to sales & area manager for Looking Good LCN. Nel loves sharing her knowledge and expertise with anyone who takes their business seriously.
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Ask Askthe theExperts Expert
The chemicals used to remove nail enhancements are also very harsh on the natural nails and skin. Just like a natural nail can be overfilled, it can also be over-soaked and will leave the natural nail in the same thin, weak and poor state. Nail professionals should always work on their clients’ natural nails with great care. There are advanced products that offer a very thin, natural feel in application with the ability to restore damaged nails. The important fact to remember is that nails grow, so damage is temporary. Within the next three to six months there will be a completely new nail visible in the same condition as it was prior to nail enhancements. Clients need to be reminded that if it wasn’t possible for them to grow their nails to the length they were when they decided to remove the enhancement, it will not be possible for their natural nails to maintain that length without some degree of artificial assistance. Permanent damage to a natural nail is most likely to be recognised in the deformation of the natural nail, due to damage caused to the matrix or nail bed. This cannot be caused by any product, I believe,
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that is legally available by a professional supplier. Permanent damage is caused by the ‘nail professional’ who received substandard training and who, frankly, has no idea what she/he is doing. In such cases the natural nail may never restore completely – it may however improve if a well-researched and developed product is applied by a trained nail professional, along with recommended home care.
SONETTE VAN RENSBURG I’ve been asked many times whether enhancements damage nails. The nail industry has unfortunately been a target of some horrendous stories and myths, which have caused it harm. Do some research and get the facts before making any assumptions.
“Truth is by nature selfevident. As soon as you remove the cobwebs of ignorance that surround it, it shines clear.” - Gandhi We need to remember that with all nail enhancement systems there are advantages and
Ask the Experts
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formulated to work in synergy with their own brand. Mixing could lead to service breakdown and damage to the natural nail damage. Should you have any doubt about this, please research it with famous product chemist, Douglas. D. Schoon (http:// www.schoonscientific.com).
disadvantages. Professional nail enhancement products, whether liquid & powder, gel, wrap system, or coating, are not considered to be harmful. However, there are many other factors that need to be considered which could influence the condition and health of client’s nails and skin when wearing nail enhancements. Training: nail professionals should have a sound knowledge of application techniques as well as of how the chemicals in the products work to form a solid, durable coating. Using your products and chemicals safely is your responsibility and duty, to ensure the health and safety of your client, her nails and skin. Professional products: using inferior and cheaper products, as opposed to professional ones, means that you could be using products that contain harmful ingredients
such as MMA (Methyl Methacrylate) and many others. Harmful ingredients can also have adverse effects on nail professionals, resulting in allergic skin reactions and respiratory problems. Most ingredients in nail products today are all tested and approved by the FDA (Federal Drugs Administration of the US) and The Occupational Safety and Hazard Association. However, there are still some products in our industry that are being distributed illegally. So make keep an eye out for them, as they do our industry harm. These products and brands use similar names and mimic the packaging of popular brands, and are also much cheaper, but remember that cheaper isn’t always best. I can’t stress enough that nail enhancement systems should not be mixed, as they are
Application and removal techniques: the preparation, application and removal techniques which are used to apply enhancements with are very specific. Using harsh techniques will most certainly cause harm and cause the condition and health of the natural nail to deteriorate. Client care: natural nail damage and trauma could also be caused by your client. It’s your responsibility to make sure that you educate your clients as to how to maintain their nail enhancements.
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 26 years and consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.
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Business
Professionalism as a
nail technician Nail professionals are just that and professional practice is of the utmost importance and should be maintained throughout all aspects of the business, no matter what it is you do, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
A
n establishment that has an excellent reputation, and which provides high standards of service and customer care and does not compromise on quality, will most definitely be the most successful. As a nail professional you contribute hugely to the success of a salon, so you will be expected to represent yourself and your company in the most professional manner, providing services and client care of the highest quality. You should always be courteous and respectful of your clients, and make sure all services are performed with professionalism, diligence and care. With so many beauty
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establishments out there it is important to make sure there is a point of difference to your salon and in the way that clients are treated and in the way in which the treatments are conducted. The most important attributes for any nail professional to have is good communication and interactive skills, a positive attitude, integrity, to be able to lead by example and most of all, to have a passion for the industry. Greeting and communicating clearly and effectively with clients by making eye contact, using positive body language, speaking clearly and making recommendations is essential. In addition, you
need to ask the necessary questions during a treatment to make sure you understand clients’ needs. A beauty professional will develop relationships with their clients, often long term relationships, where clients will have the utmost trust in what your do. To maintain
Business
You should always be courteous and respectful of your clients, and make sure all services are performed with professionalism, diligence and care.
these relationships there are certain key elements that are required. Communication skills – the ability to communicate effectively with your clients is probably one of the most important abilities you will need in your profession, especially considering you
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will be dealing with many different types of personalities and temperaments. Always communicate effectively, clearly and in a professional manner. Effective communication prevents misunderstandings, makes you look and sound more professional, and assists you V
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Business
with giving your clients sound advice. It’s also important to communicate effectively with your colleagues. Being a good listener – we have two ears and one mouth, therefore we should listen more than we talk. Listen to your clients and you will have a better understanding of their needs and requirements. Feedback – without clients, the nail establishment has no business. It is vital to know how our clients view us, our service, the quality of our work, the establishment and especially to know if they feel there are any areas in which we can improve. Feedback helps to identify your strong points and any weak points that need to be improved on. Sincerity and honesty – always remember that honesty is the best policy, so be truthful, do not give the incorrect information or mislead your clients in any way. Cheerful and polite – always be polite towards your clients no matter who they are or what their age. Approachable – you should always look approachable by smiling and being friendly and welcoming.
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Appearance and grooming – presenting yourself in a professional manner will make you feel so much more confident, which in turn will inspire confidence in your clients. Client Interaction – you will be communicating and interacting with your client all the time, from the minute you first meet her, until she leaves. Have an expert knowledge of the services and products with which you work and which your establishment provides so that you are able to pass that knowledge on to your clients with enthusiasm
Greeting – greet your client with a smile, introduce yourself and welcome her by her name. Always be polite and remember to say ‘Please’ and ‘Thank you’. Language – bad language is unacceptable in a professional environment. Never speak in a foreign language to your colleagues in front of a client, it is rude and she may think you are talking about her. Eye contact – look your client in the eye when you speak to her even when you are in front of the computer; intermittently glance up and make eye contact so that she
Business
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Tips for professional behavior Be welcoming – always be welcoming to all clients regardless if they are existing or new clients, or what their status is. Everyone should be treated in the same way and is if they all VIPs. Helpful – attend to a client’s needs as efficiently as possible, whether face-to-face or on the telephone. Patient – dealing with demanding clients and overworked colleagues can be challenging; being patient will help deal with these situations. Pleasant and courteous – nobody wants to deal with or communicate with an unpleasant or rude person. Time management – don’t keep people waiting; if you are not able to assist immediately then inform them you will get back to them.
As a nail professional you contribute hugely to the success of a salon, so you will be expected to represent yourself and your company in the most professional manner. knows you are interested in her. Body language – you should always come across as friendly and approachable to clients as well as colleagues. Be sensitive and aware of your body language as it can say a lot about your attitude. Take note of other people’s body language and feelings. Correct posture – your posture and the way you carry yourself is essential and projects a professional image as well as shows confidence. Do not slouch or drag your feet when walking and approaching a client.
When showing a client which direction to go, do so with an open hand facing upwards. Speaking – always speak clearly and confidently; don’t mumble and don’t speak while looking down at the floor. Avoid using negative words, as you will definitely get a negative response back from your client or the person you are communicating with. When asking your clients any questions, the best way to get a positive response and answer from them is to make a suggestion and
give them a choice, this will allow you to know exactly how they feel which will enable you to accommodate their requirements accordingly. First impressions are lasting impressions, so they need to be good ones. Etiquette means doing things in a helpful, pleasant and courteous way. Being professional at all times and in every aspect of what you do is what will set you aside from the rest, so always try and be the best that you can possibly be.
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Style Savvy
Pantone Pair The two Pantone Colours of the Year, Rose Quartz and Serenity, are a perfect unity of beautiful soft tones of warm embracing rose and cool tranquil blue.
Rose Quartz – A soft feminine and delicate tone that conveys care and compassion and conjures up feelings of comfort and happiness.
Serenity – A tranquil, transcendent, cool blue that brings to mind a light airiness, like the expanse of a perfect blue sky that makes you feel carefree.
Denim
Rose
P
resenting themselves at the most appropriate time of need, these two colours bring about transformation in a world overcome with every day stresses and technology. Like a beautiful serene sunrise at the start of a new day, their connection reflects a plethora of positive emotions, bringing about new beginnings, full of meaning and expression, instilling a sense of comfort that soothes the soul, evoking calmness and reassurance.
Pass The Bouquet
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This harmonious duo combines with and complements an array of shades, from quieter more neutral classic tones, to more vibrant, sophisticated shades.
Jukebox
Style Savvy
Extraordinary Spectacle
Bardot Indigo
Ooh La Lace Take me to your tribe
A colour palette that is sure to set the trends for the upcoming year, in a variety of the most exciting arrangements and designs, reflecting a mood and attitude that is unique and sophisticated.
Airhead
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I’m charmed
Young Nails nail art using Blushing Girl and Peek a Blue
Daydream
Nail art from Crisnail by Oksana Van Tonder, Head of Education at EBS Nail Academy and Crisnail brand
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Salon Focus
Nails on the go With the first-ever Yemaya Express Nail Bar having opened in Cape Town in November 2011, eight new bars are set to open in 2016, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
Y
emaya Express Nail Bar founder, Gali Gaon Segall, currently owns eight nail bars, all situated in shopping malls and airports. Commenting on what inspired the Yemaya Express Nail Bar concept, she explains that Yemaya originally started off as a spa and hair salon on Beach Road in Mouille Point. “Yemaya is the African Goddess of the Sea, and in African mythology she comes out of the ocean and heals people with love, touch and passion. As the original Yemaya Spa was situated on the beachfront and offered healing treatments such as massage and facials, etc, we thought it would be the ideal name. “Our spa was very busy and we noticed that people always needed to have their nails done at the last minute. It occurred to us that it would be a fantastic idea if people could
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come and have their nails done in malls or airports with no appointments, on a firstcome-first-served basis, with treatments lasting between 15 and 20 minutes. “The concept really took off nicely and we opened our second nail bar in March 2012 at Cape Town International Airport Domestic Departures. We also do call-outs to big corporate companies,” says Segall. She notes that she herself is not a nail technician. “I wish
I was, but my forté is sales and management.” Typically, the size of a Yemaya Express Nail Bar is 20 square metres and it is manned by between eight and 12 nail technicians, depending on the size and location of the kiosk. Segall tries to design each kiosk according to that particular mall’s criteria.
Brands Yemaya offers a wide variety of brands, including Crisnail, CND, Essie, OPI and Gelish.
Salon Focus
“We believe in high-quality products that are resultsdriven and that is the reason we have so many loyal repeat customers,” comments Segall. “Until a few months ago I would say that Gelish and Vinylux were our most popular treatments, but recently I’ve noticed a huge demand for acrylic nails. “Our retail is very strong part of the business – we average
50% retail versus treatment services.” Yemaya has an in-house trainer who puts new employees through an intensive two-week course in all the procedures offered at the franchise.
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There are Yemaya Express Nail Bars at Key West Mall (Krugersdorp), Clearwater Mall (Johannesburg), King Shaka International Airport (Durban), and in Cape Town at Cavendish, Cape Gate, Canal Walk, Sea Point and Cape Town International Airport.
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Nail Competition
Winning Ways –
Professional Beauty Dubai The two-day Nail Masters competition at the recent Professional Beauty Dubai Show inspired more than 30 aspiring technicians to pit their skills against one another in a bid to gain industry recognition, writes Fiona Vlemmiks, editor of Professional Beauty GCC.
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Nail Competition
C
ategories at the Professional Beauty Dubai Nail Competition included nail art, gel polish, tip and overlay and sculpting, all of which inspired some original and gorgeous talons. Technicians who worked on their models in a separate area near the beauty hall at the exhibition were judged on their techniques and the finished results. In three of the nail art categories, there was an exciting battle between colleagues Cherryl Lalog Llaneta and Thidar Linn from The Nail Spa for first and second place. Eventually, Cherryl Lalog Llaneta was named as the overall winner of the competition. Prizes and trophies were awarded at the end of each day, on the HJ stage, allowing winners to gain accolades in front of their industry peers. This year we were lucky enough to have Sonette van Rensburg directing
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the competition. Van Rensburg has more than 25 years experience in the nail industry in Dubai and South Africa. She told Professional Beauty GCC: “I was very pleased with the great turnout and also impressed with the professional way in which the nail stylists presented themselves and their great competition spirit. “The level of skill and expertise they showed was also high. It would be great to see many more nail stylists competing and showing off their skills in next year’s competition. There is no reason for nail stylists in Dubai to take a back seat - they have what it takes!”
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In the market
Product
Hub
Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.
Adding ‘ice’
Pause for thought
011 314 9222
021 552 6999
South African nail brand, ICE Box colors, has added three new shades to its collection that are available in lacquer and gel. Coral Ice is a beautiful coral shade with a cream finish, while I Do, I Do, I Do is a white pearlescent shimmer. Let It Snow is a white shade that contains a white iridescent glitter.
SpaRitual’s Pause Collection for Fall 2016 features six intricate hues – Eye for Detail (a pearly cream shimmer), Artisan (a deep red and gold duo speckled with chrome glitter), Modern (a rich plum infused with red micro glitter), Intricate (a satin navy shimmer), Bespoke (a gunmetal micro glitter grey), and Hand Made (a copper and gold glitter).
Luxurious treatment
Carina Franck of Kalahari Lifestyle has launched the luxurious Manipédi Collection. This exclusive spa and salon professional manicure and pedicure range is infused with the captivating aroma of African Mint. The product range is suitably cost effective and will leave the skin nourished and fragrant, with a subtle bronze shimmer. 011 656 1122
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Mar/Apr 2016
In the market
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Healing times
Keratin power NNB Gel Keratin from LCN protects and nourishes the natural nail plate. Nails with a disrupted keratin structure are brittle, as keratin is a protein that provides strength and resilience to nails. The highly effective ingredients in NNB Gel Keratin offer nails the basic building material for healthy nail growth.
Herbal Synergy combines Oregano, Tea Tree and Cinnamon oils, all known as natural anti-fungal healers, into a compound that will reduce and help to eliminate most nail fungi. This product was formulated exclusively for Backscratchers Salon Systems by a renowned cosmetic chemist, Dr Peter Pugliese, and is available from Wondernail. 011 452 2771
010 593 3293
E.MI School South Africa offers various International & National art courses Barbie’s Wardrobe - 4 March; 13 April; 6 May ABC Lines - 8-9 March; 4-5 April; 28-29 May; 23-24 May Textone & Combiture - 10 March; 20 April; 5 May; 27 May ABC Lines Cape Town - 15-16 March Design Technology - 16-17 March; 11-12 April; 3-4 May Stylized Painting - 29-30 March; 25-26 May Free Edge Design - 31 March; 20 May 3D Vintage & Liquid Stone - 19 April; 31 May With more dates to follow after May
F eel free to join us at our O pen D ay 16 A pril 2016 or ask us about our E .M I D ay’s, to learn m ore about w hat w e do! Tel: 011 976 0081 E-mail: info@emi-sa.co.za Facebook: E.MI School South Africa. Distribution and training Address: 23 Loretha str, van Riebeeck Park, Kempton Park
save the dates... 28 & 29 August 2016
Nail
Gallagher Convention Centre
Johannesburg
Competition
Monday: 29 August 2016 Nail Art Competition (open to all levels) • Mixed Media Tip Overlay Competition – 2 levels (Novice & Intermediate)
• Liquid & Powder • Gel Sculpting Competition - Traditional Pink & White - 2 levels (Intermediate and Masters Only)
• Liquid & Powder • Gel
PRE-ENTER:
NailFile Showcase
Competition (Open to all levels) (Closing date for entries 29th July) • Photographic Nail Art • Tip Box Nail Art
Also taking place:
Johannesburg Sunday: 28 August 2016
☞
Please do not hesitate to contact the Competition Director should you have any questions or need further assistance. Sonette van Rensburg (Competition Director) Cell no: 076 585 4191 email: sonettevr@gmail.com or sonette@probeauty.co.za
Nail Health
In the third part of the Busting Myths series of articles, Sonette van Rensburg continues to investigate misinformation in the industry.
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F
or our industry to grow and prosper we have to make sure we stay up to date with new trends, techniques and advancements in product technology. It is everyone’s professional responsibility to be involved, informed and well-educated and to make sure that we carry this message through. After looking at all the myths and untruths that can damage our industry, we can see that it all boils down to education. A skilled, knowledgeable and professional nail technician can make all the difference, and is key to a salon’s success, Even if a nail technician prefers to work with one particular system, it is advisable that they V
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Nail Health
educate themselves on all three systems and how they work. Often nail technicians become so familiar and experienced in a single system that, when they have to master something new, it could result in them experiencing service breakdown. With today’s advancements in product technology, service breakdown of any nail enhancement system does not usually just occur because of the chemical composition of the products, but rather because of improper application. Ongoing professional education is therefore vital to ensuring that the correct application technique for any nail enhancement system is learnt, to ensure optimum performance of a product. MYTH – nail enhancements cause cancer. A damaging rumour that started a couple of years ago is that acrylics could cause cancer. This was related to the initiator known as (BPO) Benzoyl Peroxide, which is present in the powder and assists in the polymerisation process. However, the quantity of BPO present is minimal. It also evaporates during the curing process, leaving little or no trace of the ingredient behind to be able to cause
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harm. Up until today there has been no further proof that nail enhancement products are carcinogenic. MYTH – ‘Better for the nail’. Beware of claims that some nail enhancement systems and products are better for the nail than others. Nail enhancements products have been around for many years now, with plenty of testing and research having gone into what makes these products perform at their best and what the harmful effects are on the natural nail. No professional nail enhancement product eats into, or damages, the natural nail by itself; incorrect application is what causes this. MYTH – Make it last! In the past it was thought that the only way to get
enhancement products to adhere properly to the natural nail was to etch or roughen up the nail plate, causing severe damage. This is no longer necessary; when the natural nail plate is prepared for the application of nail enhancements, it should be done with extreme care, literally only removing the shine or oily layer from the nail plate. The technique used in performing this step can make all the difference. More and more it is coming to light that the nail plate need not be buffed prior to the application of nail coatings. It is the duty and responsibility of every nail professional to preserve the integrity and health of the client’s natural nail plate. MYTH – some enhancement systems are unsafe. Acrylics are used in the biomedical and dental industries, so that fact blows this myth right out
Nail Health
the water. If these chemicals are safe to use on the body, then there is no reason that they would not be safe to use on the natural nail plate. However, some people automatically assume that enhancement systems are not a chemical because there is no odour. We need to be really careful believing that, when chemicals have a very strong odour, or no odour at all, that they are more, or less, harmful, as this could not be further from the truth. All enhancement systems come from the same acrylic chemical family. The odour is not necessarily directly linked to the safety of a chemical. When there is no odour it just means that there is no smell, but that there are still vapour molecules present. Most nail enhancement systems, unless they are odourless, tell us when we are abusing them. MYTH – nail enhancements do not need to be rebalanced. This is absolutely not possible, as if there were such a product we would all be out of business. The natural nail plate has a natural progression, and that is how it must grow, which means the nail enhancement will grow along with it. Everything in life requires balance, and, when nail enhancements are not rebalanced, it will lead to lifting and breakage. Nail enhancements which constantly lift or break will eventually damage the natural nail plate, so timely rebalancing is important. Some people believe that rebalancing damages the natural nail. Yes, excessive filing and leverage with nippers can cause severe damage and trauma to the nail plate. However, it is all in the hands of the technician, and her professional and technical skills, to minimise any danger to the client’s natural nail plate.
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Know your chemicals
In control In this article Sonette van Rensburg focuses on the consistency and control of product, particularly liquid & powder, in achieving durable, long-lasting nail enhancements.
W
hen baking a cake we follow a recipe, as it stipulates the exact ingredients and volume required, and the method of how to combine everything to make the cake. If we don’t follow the recipe, the cake is bound to flop. The same goes for creating a set of nail enhancements. As product consistency is a key factor in creating flawless and durable enhancements, it is important to have the necessary knowledge about the chemistry of enhancement systems. Knowing how chemicals work to form a nail coating will make all the difference in understanding why certain
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techniques need to be applied and used. It will also ensure that you are able to give your client the proper advice on how to maintain her enhancements in a perfect condition. Both liquid & powder and gel systems have to undergo polymerisation – the process by which tiny molecules all link together to form cross-linking chains that become a solid, durable coating. The two systems differ, though, in how this process takes place and what initiates it. A gel system is pre-mixed and made up of oligomers,
which set and cure under a UV or LED light. The viscosity and thickness of the gel is predetermined and mixed, depending on what it is going to be used for, making your job a little easier.
Know your chemicals
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As product consistency is a key factor in creating flawless and durable enhancements, it is important to have the necessary knowledge about the chemistry of enhancement systems.
A liquid & powder system has two components – a liquid monomer and a polymer powder – which are combined to create a polymer structure. When the monomer polymerises, it completely encapsulates each tiny bead, which act like small crack arrestors by preventing cracks from spreading. Polymer powders act as reinforcement for the enhancement, so when there is too little polymer powder, it will result in an enhancement with too few crack arrestors, leading to micro cracks that will spread through the enhancement.
A liquid & powder system usually takes 24 – 48 hours to fully cure and polymerise.
Mix ratio The product mix ratio is the ratio of liquid particles to powder particles in creating the correct consistency, which is vital to ensure the longevity and performance of a liquid & powder nail enhancement system, and will vary from one brand to another. Therefore achieving the correct consistency and mix ratio is key. A polymer structure can only be tough and resilient when all the molecules within the
polymer chains properly link together to form a solid, durable surface. The mix ratio determines the strength and durability of your nail enhancements, and, if incorrect, can lead to service breakdown, such as lifting, cracking and chipping If the proper consistency is used, the nail enhancement should contain between 30% and 40% polymer powder, as the powder provides the enhancement with most of its strength and durability. How can you tell if the mix ratio of the product is correct? Mix ratio is not something V
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Know your chemicals
Perfect mix ratio Start by making sure you use a clean sculpting brush (always remember to clean your brush in monomer and not acetone) Dip your brush in your monomer and pick up your polymer to create a bead Place the bead directly in the centre without patting or pressing it Watch how the bead reacts and take careful note of what takes place Make sure the bead settles fairly slowly but not too slowly Make sure the bead drops only by a quarter of its initial height within 10 seconds Make sure the bead maintains a smooth rounded shape and has a glass-like appearance that can be measured in the same way cake ingredients are measured, and can be affected by different factors. Most products work with a medium wet consistency, which is usually a mix ratio of 1.5 parts liquid to one part powder, but which can vary slightly from one product brand to another. A medium wet consistency provides better adhesion because the adhesion comes from the liquid monomer. The correct amount of powder also improves toughness and durability and prevents cracks from spreading. A medium wet consistency therefore creates enhancements that are tough, durable and adhere well to the natural nail. Liquid & powder systems usually set in about two
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Make sure there is no liquid monomer coming from the bead and leaving a ring of excess liquid around it Make sure the bead is easy to control and retains its shape once you have placed it and worked with it
to three minutes; however faster-setting products work twice as quickly as they contain a bigger amount of initiator. Fast-setting liquids and powders are not only ideal for use by an experienced nail tech, but also more suitable for colder salons and will set at the correct speed. Used in warmer salons they will set far too quickly, especially for new nail techs. Practise making beads with your monomer and polymer until you learn to achieve the
correct mix ratio. The only way to tell is by the look, feel and colour of the beads you create. Observe how the bead reacts and settles on a surface to determine whether it is correct or not. You will be able to tell by the way the product performs and how easily you are able to work with it.
Too wet If the mix ratio is too wet, it will result in a weak enhancement. Furthermore, while it may adhere well to
Know your chemicals
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Too Wet Too Dry the natural nail at first, it will not be at all durable and will lead to problems in no time. Using too much liquid over long periods of time could also lead to allergic reactions for either the client or nail tech, possibly even both. Don’t try to slow down the product’s setting time by using a wetter consistency (or mix ratio) as it will only lead to service breakdown.
If the mix ratio is too wet, the product will be too runny and difficult to control, and could run into the sidewalls and under the cuticles of the natural nail. The product will be sticky and could get caught deep within your sculpting brush, making it difficult to clean and possibly ruining it. It will take on the colour of the monomer rather than the powder. With too much liquid in the bead, it will evaporate, with not enough powder particles to fill the spaces, resulting in a weak nail enhancement. Too much liquid could also result in discolouration of the nail enhancement.
Too dry If the mix ratio is too dry, it will result in the nail enhancement being too brittle, leading to lifting and breakage. The product will not settle very easily and will be difficult to apply and
place where you need it. In addition, the bead and product will fall off the brush and could also leave deposits of smaller beads of product in your powder, thus contaminating it. A bead that is too dry will be lumpy, with an uneven surface and crusty appearance, and the product will not have the right colour. I would like to thank internationally recognised scientist, author and educator, Doug Schoon, for his guidance and assistance over the years and for his passion for education and sharing valuable information with our industry. Some of the information provided in this article has been extracted from his book,
Nail Structure & Product Chemistry.
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Step by Step
Salon art with
water decals We all love the idea of intricate designs on our nails; however the reality in the salon is to create something that looks intricate without taking too much time to do it. Water decals are the ideal way to do this. Within 10 seconds you can have a unique design on your nail, writes international award-winning nail technician, Tracey Lee.
1.
This technique may be created with soak-off gel or colour gels. Apply a layer of black gel over twothirds of the length of the nail and red gel over one-third of the length of the nail. It is recommended to use a gel with good coverage.
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www.tracey-lee.com
2.
Using a fine brush, blend the colours in the movement from top to bottom, moving from the left-hand side of the tip across to the right. Then repeat this action from top to bottom, however, moving from the right-hand side of the tip to the left.
Step by Step
3.
Continue blending with the fine brush, now in a side-to-side direction. Start working from the black area, blending down into the red, and then start at the bottom of the tip in the red area and blend from side to side into the black. This creates a great ombre effect (shading). Cure.
5.
Select a water decal of your choice. Cut it into the same oval shape as created with the white gel on the nail. Place in water for 10 seconds. Apply a thin layer of clear gel over the white oval and place the dried-off water decal onto this layer. Cure. Seal the entire surface with a Finish Gel. Cure and cleanse if necessary. (Decals can be used over the entire nail or simply part of the nail as in this design. Decals can be used with soak off, gel, acrylic or polish.)
7.
Sprinkle a thin layer of white acrylic powder, or, alternatively, a fine glitter on top of the uncured gel. Cure.
4.
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Create an oval shape using a white gel. Cure.
6.
Using a white gel with reduced tacky layer and a fine pointed gel brush, create an ornate border around the water decal. Start with the outline and then create some decorative curls around it. Do not cure at this stage.
8.
Dust off the surface of the tip. The acrylic powder or glitter creates a very fine structure on the surface of the tip. This has cured into the gel and cannot be removed with a cleanser.
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Step by Step
Buckle up! This intricate look was created by Gelish.
1.
After completing your Gelish nail prep, apply a thin coat of Tex’as Me later to the entire nail, making sure to cap the free edge. Cure for 30 seconds in the 18G LED light. Repeat for full coverage.
3. Nail File Issue 7
Using Pumps or Cowboy Boots? and a mini striper brush, create a small outline around the oval. Next, create an additional oval outline around the first outline.
Mar/Apr 2016
2.
With Holy Cow-Girl! and a mini striper brush, draw a small oval in the centre of the nail. Cure for 30 seconds and repeat for full coverage.
4. With a doting tool and Pumps or Cowboy Boots?, add small dots around the circle outline. Cure for 30 seconds.
Step by Step
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5.
Using Tan My Hide and the mini striper brush, create thin stripes above and below the oval. Cure for 30 seconds.
6.
With Pumps or Cowboy Boots?, Holy Cow-Girl! and a dotting tool, add dots between the stripes. Cure for 30 seconds. Apply a thick coat of Top It Off sealer gel, making sure to cap the free edge. Cure for 30 seconds. Using Nail Surface Cleanse and Wipe It Off lint-free wipes, cleanse the inhibition layer (i.e. sticky layer) of the nail. Massage Nourish Cuticle Oil into the skin surround the nail plate.
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History
The nail timeline Here we take a look back at some interesting historical facts. This is the time when short, almond shaped nails with a slight point are thought to be ideal. Nails are sometimes tinted with scented red oil and buffed with a chamois cloth for shine.
.1800.
.1892. Dr Sitts’ niece brings nail care to women, and a new manicure method is used in the US.
.1830. In Europe Dr Sitts adopts the orange wood stick (a dental tool) for nails as previously only metal tools were used.
.1900.
Metal scissors and files are widely used for manicure purposes, accompanied by tinted creams or powders to create shiny nails. The first glossy nail polish is available and applied with a camel-hair brush. But it doesn’t last very long as it wears off in a day.
.1917. The first manicure kit is made for home use and includes: cuticle remover, nail polish, nail enamel, nail whitener, orange stick, emery board and a booklet of instructions.
.1920.
‘Flowery Manicure Products’ introduces the first ‘emery board’ – a garnet nail abrasive on a wood core.
Michelle Ménard introduces the first glossy, long lasting nail polish. At first Hollywood stars have natural short nails but the development of automobile paint provides the basis for nail polishes and soon movie stars start to wear glossy red nails, later also seen on pin-up girls.
.1929.
Nail polish with perfume is introduced, but its popularity is short-lived.
The first nail polish remover and cuticle oil are available. Movie star Greta Garbo has nails extended with foil and painted red to meet the needs of film production. This is a very time-consuming technique and the nails don’t last long.
.1930.
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.1910.
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.1925.
The ‘moon manicure’ is popular due to new nail polishes on the market in rosy red and pink; the cuticles are cut, the free edges are pointy, and polish is applied only on the nail bed, avoiding the moon.
.1927.
French Manicure-like products are created: Max Factor’s Society Nail Tint is a rose-coloured cream in a porcelain pot, with Society Nail White a chalky white liquid in a tube that’s applied under the nail tips.
Q&A
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Top Tech Talk In this issue of Nail File, we put the spotlight on up-and-coming nail technician, Lomaphungo H. Donga, a runner-up in the Professional Beauty Nail Competition.
Where are you from originally? Swaziland.
For how many years have you been a nail technician? Seven years.
Where did you train and are you trained in other aspects of beauty therapy as well as nails? I studied at the Institute of Beauty and am also disciplined in facials, waxing and massage.
What first sparked your interest in nails? Seeing nails as part of beauty and fashion layouts in glossy magazines at a tender age.
Please provide an overview of your nail career. I started my career by working for a family owned business called Klip Art, which dissolved after I left. Following that I moved to The Treat, which was
based at the Brightwater Commons Mall. This is where I began perfecting my skills and furthering myself in all the different styles of nail applications. From there I worked at Nail Paradise, but that didn’t last long. After a brief absence from the industry, I came back to work for The Lime Tree at Appleton’s Village in Randburg, from where I moved to SOHO Nails Waxing Beauty. V Nail File Issue 7
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Q&A
For how long have you been at SOHO? Since the salon’s inception in 2011.
What was the turning point in your career? Meeting SOHO founder Getty Gizaw for the first time and becoming aware of the dream she had for SOHO and thus realising that I would also be one of the pioneers of the reality of that dream. Nail File Issue 7
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Q&A
What would you say has been the highlight of your career? Being recognised, in many instances, as the best technician among such great talent in the industry. And also meeting international and local celebrities through my work at SOHO.
Do you have any mentors in the industry? Yes, I consider Getty Gizaw and educator, Sonette van Rensburg, as my mentors.
In what competitions have you been placed? I won 2nd place in the Looking Good LCN 2015 Nail Competition, as well as 2nd place in the Professional Beauty Awards Nail Competition in 2014.
What is your favourite nail service to perform – manicure, pedicure, gel, acrylic, tips, sculptures or nail art? Gel.
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What is the most amazing piece of nail art you’ve ever seen? I can honestly say it simply – 3D nail art!
What advice would you give to someone wanting to embark on a career in nails? To get to the top in this industry you need patience and a lot of hard work and dedication. Do not be discouraged by negative reviews as these should serve as inspirational tools to better yourself, rather than to give up. And, always pay attention to detail. Nail File Issue 7
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Q&A
What would you say has been the highlight of your career? Being recognised, in many instances, as the best technician among such great talent in the industry. And also meeting international and local celebrities through my work at SOHO.
Do you have any mentors in the industry? Yes, I consider Getty Gizaw and educator, Sonette van Rensburg, as my mentors.
In what competitions have you been placed? I won 2nd place in the Looking Good LCN 2015 Nail Competition, as well as 2nd place in the Professional Beauty Awards Nail Competition in 2014.
What is your favourite nail service to perform – manicure, pedicure, gel, acrylic, tips, sculptures or nail art? Gel.
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What is the most amazing piece of nail art you’ve ever seen? I can honestly say it simply – 3D nail art!
What advice would you give to someone wanting to embark on a career in nails? To get to the top in this industry you need patience and a lot of hard work and dedication. Do not be discouraged by negative reviews as these should serve as inspirational tools to better yourself, rather than to give up. And, always pay attention to detail. Nail File Issue 7
Mar/Apr 2016
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