Nail File August 2016

Issue 9

Aug 2016

Deviant nails

AT ALL COSTS HOW TO PRICE SERVICES

Abnormal conditions

Diplomacy in the salon Resolving staff conflicts

Seeing Red

The enduring appeal of classic reds

rand Gallagher Convention Centre, Mid

Organised by:

Sunday, 28 August 2016 The EducatioNAIL WORKSHOP

runs alongside the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo and is supported by NAIL FILE magazine.

• Attend and learn the latest techniques • Excellent skills development • Tutorials from leading brand names • Learn how to grow your business • Nails… more than just ART!

WHAT’S INSIDE NAIL FILE

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10

32

28

4

22

Industry News

Salon Focus

10

24

Ask the Experts

Nailing the right stuff Retailing tips

38

28

Top Tech Talk

Stay in the know

How do I resolve staff conflicts in the salon?

14 Business

Pricing treatments

18 Style Savvy Classic Reds

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Nails at Midori

Abnormal Nail

32 / 34/ 36 Step by Steps

A Very Nauti-cal Girl In the land of milk and honey Purple Orchid

Q&A with Alisha Rimando Botero

Diseases and disorders

30 Know Your Chemicals

Cuticle oils and quickdry products

In the Market Product Hub

Alisha Rimando Botero

News

WELCOME

Cover: Shutterstock

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NAIL FILE

A Professional Beauty Supplement Published by T.E. Trade Events 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 / Fax: 011 781 6079 Additional pics: www. shutterstock.com

Publisher Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk Editor Joanna Sterkowicz joanna@probeauty.co.za Art Director Jacqui Theron jacqui@tetradeevents.com Technical Consultant Sonette van Rensburg sonette@probeauty.co.za Advertising Sales 011 781 5970

rofessionals in the nail stratosphere have a lot to look forward to in August. The EducatioNail Workshop takes place on 28 August at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand and is ideal for any techs keen on learning about the latest trends and technologies.

For all those techs with a competitive spirit – we look forward to welcoming you on 29 August to the Nail Competition at Professional Beauty Johannesburg. This is the perfect opportunity for you to expose your skills, technique and creativity.

As this issue was going to print, the Nail File team was very excited to receive the first entries for the Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition. Finalists will be showcased in our September issue.

By the way, as you will see, there is lots to read in this issue of Nail File, from how to resolve staff conflicts, to pricing treatments, to retailing tips, to the abnormal nail, to the chemistry of cuticle oils.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

TO ADVERTISE in Nail File, please call 011 781 5970 TO CONTR IBUTE TO EDITOR IAL, contact Joanna TO JOIN THE CONVERSATION Visit www.probeauty.co.za and follow us on Facebook and Twitter.

Nail File Issue 9 August 2016

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News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips

Durban gets EducatioNail The first ever EducatioNail workshop to be held in Durban took place at the ICC on 12 June, as part of the Professional Beauty Durban Expo.

C

onsidering this was the inaugural EducatioNail Workshop event in Durban, we had a really good turnout of attendees,” says EducatioNail director, Sonette van Rensburg. “We had a full-day of extremely informative sessions presented by top industry experts who were very well received.

“Our theme for the event was the importance of staying up to date with technology, product innovation and education.”

The workshop kicked off with a video from the Faceto-Face with Doug Schoon series, where Schoon, an internationally renowned scientist, author and industry expert, spoke about taboo practices and misinformation in the industry.

Nail File Issue 9 August 2016

“Then we had Dr Katya Tsvyetkova from Lilian Terry International, who presented a session on incorporating knowledge of nutrition into your service. She talked about the A, B and C of nails and how to offer unique customised advice to clients.

Her premise was nails as a mirror of your health and how certain nail conditions are caused by lack of minerals and vitamins. Delegates absolutely loved this session,” explains Van Rensburg.

Yvette Nel of LCN presented a session called Advanced Results – about product innovation and technology, while Fergus Mackinnon and Nadia Erasmus of Calgel

covered new nail trends, colours, styles and shapes and how to translate them into everyday looks.

Van Rensburg herself presented several sessions, one on busting myths in the industry and knowing what you should work on and not, due to contagions.

She also spoke on nailing the correct stock levels in your salon; brand and product integrity, the grey market; counterfeit product; the dangers of mixing enhancement systems; and the 10 Pantone colours of the year.

The day ended with an open forum. Delegates received certificates of attendance and goodie-bags. There was also a big surprise hamper draw sponsored

by LCN and Calgel.

News

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Open days full of ‘Sparkle’

T

he Johannesburg and Cape Town branches of the Sparkle Nail Academy recently held open days for new and existing Sparkle Cosmetics clients at their campuses in Melrose and Rondebosch respectively.

Says Sparkle Cosmetics marketing director Romy Pfaff: “The response was amazing!

We held a raffle, and two lucky students each won a Sparkle Nail Academy course valued at over R7000.”

According to Pfaff, the academy has a clear vision to raise the standard of nail education in South Africa.

“We aim to increase the skill levels and employment opportunities of nail therapists and technicians nationwide.

No matter how far along their professional paths nail techs may be, whether long-time professionals or newcomers to the world of nails, they are welcome at our academy,” concludes Pfaff.

Pauline van der Merwe and Elmien Sholtz

Bio Sculpture’s educators convene Forty delegates from all areas in South Africa and Namibia attended the recent Bio Sculpture Gel National Educators Conference at the Zuikerkop Game and Conferencing Lodge, near Clocolan.

The main focus of the event was the exciting new range, Evo. Conforming to the company’s characteristic high standard of training for its gel nail systems, Bio Sculpture educators underwent intensive education

and were themselves put to the test. They had to comply with the highest standard of practical evaluation by founder Elmien Scholtz and international head of training, Tania Oliver.

“A valuable addition to our team is Pauline van der Merwe, who is the designer and stylist for the brand, and the creator of the online publication, Bio News.

Pauline addressed delegates at the conference on website and brand-related social media matters,” says Scholtz.

Bio News is accessible on

http://www.biosculpture.com/

Nail File Issue 9 August 2016

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News

Artistic principal educator visits South Africa

Melissa Peters

Melissa Peters, the principal educator for cult nail brand Artistic, is to visit South African distributor Twincare International at the end of this month.

Says Twincare’s retail manager, Lindzey Turton: “Melissa is a working nail artist in Chicago, specialising in sculptured enhancements and soak-off gel manicures. Her desire to perfect her craft led her to enter the competition arena, where she distinguished herself as a Top Gun competitor and competition judge for Nailpro.

“Melissa believes that, in an industry that is everchanging, whether it is products or fashion, education is imperative. She hopes to inspire other nail artists with cutting-edge products and techniques.”

Peters arrives in SouthAfrica on 27 August, just in time for the Professional Nail File Issue 9 August 2016

Beauty Johannesburg Expo at Gallagher Convention Centre, where Twincare is exhibiting.

During her stay, Peters will hold four different seminars over two days and conduct a four-day educator training programme. In addition, Peters will visit Twincare’s top spa accounts.

KUZMENKO TRIUMPHS

South Africa-based AlinaOlena Kuzmenko, a Ukrainian nail artist with 14 years of experience in the industry, recently won first places in the Imperial Beauty competition (Ukraine) and the Golden Rose in Bulgaria.

In 2015, Kuzmenko won the mixed media category at the Professional Beauty Nail Competition. Says Kuzmenko: “Over the last two years I have spent a lot of time learning and

Alina-Olena Kuzmenko

perfecting acrylic design. I was always artistic, even at school, but could never study art as money was always an issue. Last year I started painting in watercolour and oil and did a nail art course.”

Pedique

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BS - Brace System the solution for ingrown toe nails For training information contact Looking Good LCN: Tel: 010 593 3293 | WhatsApp 083 326 0604 | info@lcn.co.za | www.lcn.co.za MADE IN GERMANY

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News

Pillay takes over Nail Therapy

Hybrid lacquers ‘polish’ up market

Nail Therapy SA is now under new management in the hands of Seleena Pillay, who has been in the industry for 15 years.

Says Pillay: “My aim is to educate the community of Phoenix and outlying areas on using quality nail products in a professional manner through the Nail Therapy Training Centre. Products are distributed via our online store, the Nail Therapy Shop and three agents around South Africa.”

Nail Therapy SA imports quality nail products from the US and blends them in Durban. All of Nail Therapy’s chemicals are approved by Nail File Issue 9 August 2016

the FDA (Federal Drug Administration) and MSDS (material safety data sheets) are kept on file.

Pillay was previously an agent and trainer for Nail Therapy.

She continues: “I come from humble beginnings – having started as a cleaner in a salon and progressing to running my own salon at the Protea Hotel Mall in Umhlanga for 13 years.”

Nail Therapy SA was founded in 2010 by Samantha Kempson, who has been in the industry for over 20 years as a technician and an educator for various product houses

Research company Kline reports that the global professional nail care market, driven by two key areas of innovation – the products themselves and their removal techniques – posts healthy growth of almost 6% in 2015.

Long-wear nail polish (also called hybrid), which combines the benefits of gel and regular nail polish, has been the biggest innovation since the introduction of gel polish. The hybrid category posted a triple-digit increase in 2015, says Kline’s justpublished report Professional Nail Care: Global Market Brief.

While this innovation is the key market driver, it is also leading to cannibalisation of sales between product types, which has caused several brands to suffer a decline in sales for their nail polish product lines, as loyal consumers shift to the use of long-wear nail polishes.

ICONIC OPI SHADES SHINE-INTENSE LASTS FOR WEEKS CURES IN 30 SECONDS

.

The Prestige Cosmetics Group Marlborough Gate, Hyde Lane, Hyde Park, Johannesburg Phone: 021 442 7700/ 011 325 1000 Email: OPIorders@pcgroup.co.za

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Ask the Experts

Defusing skirmishes

Question: How do I resolve staff conflicts in the salon?

SAM BIDDLE The question should rather be, ‘How do I prevent staff conflict?’

Once there is a conflict it is very hard to change other people’s opinions, and when the negative thought process starts, you have little chance to combat it. Conflict must not affect the clients, as the last thing they want to do is listen to a tech complaining about a fellow employee.

But let’s think about how we can prevent conflict happening in the first place.

We are a passionate industry

and creative personalities in the salon lead to a wide range of varied opinions. If you understand this as an employer, you can actually encourage the freedom of thought and expression.

Controlling it in a positive way will release any possible tensions and your employees will feel heard and supported.

Never allow bad-mouthing among staff, or talking ill of another member of staff. Lead by example and freely offer praise. This support and sense of good nature will point out the good in any situation.

Sam Biddle is renowned worldwide as a nail technician and educator.

She is an international judge and competition winner and the creative director of Jealous Cow Ltd.

Nail File Issue 9 August 2016

Prevention is better than cure; listening and understanding others, accommodating their points of view without compromising your business will mean they can’t go looking for trouble elsewhere. If you do end up with a conflict in a working environment the end game usually means that one of them goes. You need to control the decision so your business does not suffer.

ISABEL FENNER In a perfect world there would be no conflict, we would be as peaceful, calm and happy as the environment we work in, whether it’s a salon, nail bar or spa. However, this is not a perfect world, and, in reality, we are bound to have differences and rub each other up the wrong way. When working with people conflicts are often unavoidable because we have different work goals, ethics and personalities.

Ask the Experts

Unresolved conflicts result in loss of productivity and a possible loss of a client; so, firstly, we need to look at the main reasons for staff conflicts in the salon. These include competitive tension, someone having a bad day, jealousy, pride and ego, among others.

Secondly, I think we should address these situations outside of work hours. If that’s not possible, then it should be behind closed doors and out of view and earshot of our clients.

Thirdly, it is essential to get ALL sides to a story. Have both, or all, parties present when listening to the reason for the disagreement. Ask them to focus on the event / behaviour of the other party and NOT on the other staffer’s personality. All parties need to listen carefully to each other before they may speak. They need to stay calm, listen and

understand. Remind them to attack the problem and NOT the person.

Finally, repeat this again the next day. Hopefully by now the two or more parties have calmed down and the situation looks totally different. If not, suggest they all write down their concerns and how they would resolve the conflict. This will help you to come to a fair conclusion, be it a warning or an apology. Your decision is final and all parties need to respect your decision.

It is very important to handle all conflicts in the same way, no matter how big or small they are. This also creates an understanding among the staff that no matter who you are, or what position you hold, conflicts will be handled in the same manner. Remember that everyone has to be respected, from the tea lady to the receptionist to the owner.

I have found it very helpful to

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ensure that each existing staff member and any newcomers to the salon know your salon’s policy, procedures and practices.

Isabel Fenner started the Looking Good Beauty Centre in 1989, and, in 2000, joined forces with her sister, Lea Castro, to link their two salons into one.

Fenner’s passion is education and this year she became training director for Looking Good LCN.

Nail File Issue 9 August 2016

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Ask the Experts

“ Open communica tion build s tru s t among s t one another,”

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG For any company to succeed, it requires people and staff who are dedicated to the business, to you and to their clients. The most successful businesses are those whose employees lead by example and who provide a positive environment.

Even when staff members are happy and things seem to be going well, conflict will be an issue you will have to face sooner or later. This is why it is necessary to make sure you have a conflict resolution tool in place and that you train staff on how to implement it. However, before escalating a situation it is always best to encourage staff to resolve issues and conflict amongst themselves.

Let’s take a look at how you can enforce a positive working environment and lessen the chance of conflict.

SOPs – it is vitally important for any business to make sure that there are certain policies and procedures in place with your own SOPs (Standard Operating Procedures) for adhering to a set Code of Conduct and Ethics.

Basically SOPs are a set of Rules & Regulations which employees within an establishment are expected to adhere to. SOPs help to ensure and establish Nail File Issue 9 August 2016

acceptable work ethics. They also ensure that clients are protected from improper practices. If there are no rules then things are bound to go haywire.

Open communication – this builds trust amongst one another; it can also be a constructive way of resolving conflicts, resulting in a happy working environment.

I believe that it’s always in the best interest of an establishment to listen to

what their staff are saying, and this goes for absolutely everyone, from management to front desk and even assisting staff. Everyone is different and has their own ideas and feelings about certain things and they should be able to share them.

However, your staff should feel absolutely comfortable and be able to open up to you and the rest of the staff, no matter who they are.

This includes anything from

Ask the Experts

sharing their ideas, to coming up with solutions for issues, to what they are disgruntled about. The first step is to build relationships with your staff, make decisions based on what they are saying, and finally, make sure that whatever is discussed is executed. If this does not happen then there will be no trust or respect.

Growth, recognition and rewards – there are also other ways of keeping your staff happy by offering them growth, incentives and rewards. People strive to want to do better for their future and career and if they feel that there is an opportunity to grow, they will be more dedicated. Also, remember to recognise staff for good work and reward them for their efforts. It is important to make sure this is done in front of other staff, to encourage and motivate them to do the same.

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Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 27 years and consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

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Business

PAYING PRICE Sonette van Rensburg provides some valuable tips on how to price your hand, nail and foot services.

Compiling your nail salon treatment menu is going to be a very important part of the planning of your nail business and making it a profitable venture.

Devising a treatment menu takes some time, as it requires thought and research to ensure that your salon thrives in a highly competitive market. Although price may be quite a big deciding factor, it’s not the only thing that could influence clients visiting a salon.

Your treatment menu and offering is going to be

Nail File Issue 9 August 2016

vital in ensuring that you set yourself apart from what everyone else in the industry is offering. You will want to make sure that you offer something that is unique and that will make your clients want to return to you time after time, and not just because the price is right.

One very important aspect to remember when compiling a treatment menu for your salon is that there are different types of clients out there, and therefore salons need to offer a variety of treatments

to suit all needs. Nail salons are now offering more than just hand, nail and foot services, but also a variety of other offerings to complement and attract clients to their salons.

Consequently, clients have a greater selection to choose from and can get exactly what they need all under one roof. This makes it more and more challenging to ensure the success of your business. So do your homework and find out exactly what are the best treatments you can offer your clients.

Business

Treatment offering When looking at a nail salon treatment menu, you are probably wondering just how many different treatments can be offered when it comes to someone’s hands, nails and feet. Actually, you would be surprised at the variety and selection of treatments that can be offered and just how unique these treatments can be made for your clients.

Remember, however, that treatments need to be beneficial and effective.

You can customise your offering to maximise the most basic treatments and give clients more than just an ordinary manicure or pedicure and thus generate more profit. Hand and foot treatments can range from a very basic service to more deluxe spa treatments, or nail enhancements and even signature treatments, depending on the products and equipment you use. The time you spend on a treatment will depend on the type of service you are offering, and can vary from treatment to treatment.

Some clients will prefer a quick, effective service, while others may want a little more pampering.

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Maximise your clients’ spending and don’t forget how much value add-on services can contribute to your overall turnover.

These services can easily be added to your existing menu – upgrading a treatment that does not already include a particular service. Treatments can be customised in this way to suit a client’s needs. What makes a treatment different are the products that are being used, along with specialised techniques, special touches and equipment, taking a basic service to a more luxurious and beneficial treatment.

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Business

Additional services Most nail salons offer additional services, such as basic massages, waxing, threading, eye lash and brow tinting, and much more. All of these services are quick and easy to perform while the client is already at the salon having her treatment.

Think about offering some complementary services, such as a hand massage with a set of nail enhancements. The massage doesn’t really cost much extra, except for a little massage cream or oil and a few minutes of the tech’s time. Remember that it is those smaller details and finishing touches that make a difference and will leave an everlasting impression with your clients, distinguishing you from other salons.

Professional product Increase your profits by creating brand loyalty with your clients; pay that little bit extra and use good-quality, professional products, along with a high-quality professional service. It will be worth it in the long run and you will definitely prevent comebacks, which are not only a waste of time (time is money), but also a waste of product. Comebacks Nail File Issue 9 August 2016

will end up increasing your expenses and costing you more.

It’s all good and well using the most innovative and up to date products with the latest techniques, but make sure you include these costs to be able to price your treatments correctly. Save on the less important things to maintain your profits, but remember not to skimp on those areas that could compromise the treatment and the client’s overall satisfaction just to save a small amount here or there.

Pricing Make sure the price is right; the price of a treatment can sometimes vary drastically from salon to salon with some charging considerably more than others for the same treatment. What you charge for your treatments

and services will definitely depend on a number of different factors, such as your location, your rental, salaries, product and equipment costs, level and professionalism of staff, client care and service. It is all well and good offering extravagant treatments and services, but make sure you understand exactly what the costs are for every service you provide.

Remember to allocate a portion of your overheads, as well as the time it takes to conduct the treatment. It is going to be the only way to ensure that you know how profitable your various services will be.

There are still some salons charging R150 for a full set of nail enhancements, but how this is possible is beyond me, even if you are using the cheapest products on the market. It is definitely not advisable, especially if you want to maintain a good reputation.

We are all in business to make money, so you need to be wise about how you go about pricing your services and making sure that it works for you. There is no point in cutting your costs and prices just to attract clients when, at the end of the day, you are still scraping the pennies together.

Nail Competition

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Winning Ways – Nailpro Premiere

Nail File’s look at the international competition circuit.

The recent Nailpro Premiere in Orlando, US, hosted six competitions which included: 3D Nail Art (‘Cakes’ theme), Soak off gel, French Twist, Salon Success, Sculptured Stiletto and Fantasy Nail Art (‘Steampunk’ theme).

Says Jewell Cunningham, global director of Nailpro Competitions: “The competition was a huge success.

Our Fantasy nail art category was over the top this year with the theme being ‘Steampunk’, a genre of science fiction that typically features steam-powered machinery rather than advanced technology. Our competitors completely outdid themselves with this theme.

“In total we had representation from five countries and over 100 entries in total. Overall it was a great show.”

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STYLE SAVY

5 Shades

Red

of

Red is the colour of love, romance, desire, passion, power and temptation – a colour that simultaneously draws attention and exudes a sense of power and strength, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

Roses are red and polishes anew, how many enticing shades of red are there for you?

Nail File Issue 9 August 2016

STYLE SAVY

A girl who wears red knows that whether you decide to be coquettish, flirty and fun in a vibrant orangey red, or pretty and poised in a delightful cherry red, or even sexy and sassy in a titillating tomato hue, you will certainly get some attention.

Be a true romantic in a passionate deep racy red and be ready for a tempting rendezvous. But If you’re a woman who loves to stand out from the crowd and looking sophisticated and elegant is more your style, there is the perfect classic red that is bound to turn heads and make sure you won’t go unnoticed.

Although red nails date way back and were first made famous by Egyptian women, it was actually the Chinese who started the trend, which indicated wealth, social status and class.

Today there is an astounding assortment and choice of red shades, hues and tones, available in a variety of finishes, from plain, glossy and sparkling shimmers, to rich metallics and chrome, even matt, velvet and sand-textured surfaces to create the most elegant looks and beautiful designs.

It was a milestone in the history of the Christian Louboutin brand when he created ‘Pensee’, a shoe designed in 1992. After being disappointed at the initial prototype, he knew something was missing. So he grabbed some red nail polish and painted the inside of the sole. After inventing his signature red-soled shoe, Louboutin stated: “I am giving back to nails what the shoe took from nails many years ago!”

Actress Rita Hayworth turned scarlet red into the foreverclassic shade, worn on long almond-shaped nails with lipstick to match, launching a polish movement. Others, like Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe, followed suit, each showing off their very own signature shade of red portraying sophistication, classiness and girlish charm. Uma Thurman later started a new trend with her vamp red coloured nails in the movie, Pulp Fiction, which complemented her strong, confident, ‘don’t mess with me’ attitude, but still exuded a touch of femininity. As Audrey Hepburn once said: “There is a shade of red for every woman.”

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HOTZY

RED HOT RIO

COLD RED LACQUER

CRIMSON ICE

FIRE

HOT BLOODED

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In the Market

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.

Ahoy!

It’s time to hop aboard this season with an array of splashing shades and set the anchor of style during Spring. A Very Nauti-cal Girl from Morgan Taylor brings you four fabulous new colours 011 447 0659

It’s a Conversion!

Use Caption Conversion Base and Top to convert any shade of Caption Polish into a true high-performance gel polish. Cured in UV or LED light.

011 393 2791

Dancing Queen Bio Sculpture Gel’s Disco Dolly Collection was inspired by the Spring/Summer 2016 catwalk collections, which were bold, daring and uncompromisingly cool.

The collection includes: All Nighter (aqua shade); Party Animal (powerful pink); Turn Up The Volume (orange tapping into neon); and Glitter Bug (a mix of fashion and street culture).

051 943 0377

Twister!

LCN’s new callous remover, Twister, combines two extremely effective materials – diamond and ceramic – into a progressive new grit. Its removal rate results in a noticeably faster workflow and a smoother surface. 010 593 3293

Nail File Issue 9 August 2016

In the Market

Make-up for Nails

SpaRitual introduces the first Vegan CC Crème for nails.

This all in one make-up for nails is infused with beneficial ingredients to help strengthen, smooth, brighten and protect. Available in Natural Light, Natural Medium and Natural Tan. 021 552 6999

OPI’s Retro Summer 2016 comprises: Towel Me About It (a pretty creamy, dreamy pale yellow); Sailing & Nailing (a light blue crème polish);

I’m Getting a Tan-gerine (light orange crème); SPF XXX (a darker orange with a coral tone); What’s the Double Scoop? (light pink crème); and Flip Flops & Crop Tops

(a darker pink shade). 011 325 1000

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Salon Focus

NAILS @ MIDORI

High-quality nail services play a big part in attracting droves of corporate clients and airline transit passengers to Midori Eco Salon, nestled in the Green Park business complex in Sandton, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

Since Midori first opened in July 2012, the nail section has been expanded due to overwhelming client demand. There are now 10 mani/pedi stations and eight permanent nail techs.

While nails are a significant part of Midori’s business, the salon’s founder and owner, Anisha Patel, is quick to point out that Midori is a one-stop-shop.

“We offer 21 services in total – including hairdressing, facials and massage,” she states.

Nail File Issue 9 August 2016

Midori’s innovative ‘Power Hour Service’ has proved incredibly popular with corporate clients, who pop in during lunchtime to have their nails and hair done. The salon has a shuttle service to transport Swiss Air, Air France and KLM transit passengers to the salon to enjoy services at special rates.

Regular nail clients have the option of purchasing the Midori Mani & Pedi Kit, a set of nail tools that will be used exclusively on them, to prevent even the slightest chance of cross-

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contamination. These kits are kept for the clients in the salon.

Brands used at Midori are Gelish, Morgan Taylor, Bio Sculpture Gel, OPI and Essie.

Artistic Impressions You only have to go to Midori’s Instagram and Facebook pages to see examples of the salon’s creative nail art. In fact, Midori’s social media activity is instrumental in generating new business.

Salon Focus

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“As Midori is not situated in a shopping centre I can’t rely on passing feet to attract new clients,” explains Patel. “So we are constantly active on social media to showcase our work. Lots of people who have seen our nails on Instagram come to us.”

She notes that the demand for nail art is huge. “We noticed that this month (July) seems to be ‘wedding month’, as so many of our clients are requesting lace nails and diamantes for their ‘special day’.

“I believe that Midori is a real trendsetter in terms of nail art and that we pioneered the use of Svarovski crystals and real gem stones.

Our latest innovation is the use of natural coloured feathers in nail art, which are offered with matching feather eyelashes.”

Front desk manageress, Keke Tom, adds: “Demand for nail art ranges from stones to drawings to nail shapes and stick-ons, the list goes on... Some clients will do a thorough research of nail art looks before coming for their appointments. We also show clients our previous work as part of the consultation.”

嘀䤀匀䤀吀 伀唀刀 匀吀䄀一䐀 䄀吀 倀刀伀䘀䔀匀匀䤀伀一䄀䰀 䈀䔀䄀唀吀夀 䔀堀倀伀 䨀䠀䈀 ㈀ ㄀㘀

圀椀琀栀 挀漀洀瀀爀攀栀攀渀猀椀瘀攀 琀爀愀椀渀椀渀最 愀渀搀 漀渀最漀椀渀最 猀甀瀀瀀漀爀琀 挀漀甀渀琀爀礀 眀椀搀攀Ⰰ 䈀椀漀 匀挀甀氀瀀琀甀爀攀 䜀攀氀 椀猀 猀甀椀琀愀戀氀攀 昀漀爀 戀漀琀栀 戀攀最椀渀渀攀爀猀 愀渀搀 攀砀瀀攀爀椀攀渀挀攀搀 渀愀椀氀 琀攀挀栀渀椀挀椀愀渀猀⸀ 䈀椀漀 匀挀甀氀瀀琀甀爀攀 䜀攀氀 栀愀猀 愀 琀愀椀氀漀爀攀搀 渀愀椀氀 挀愀爀攀 猀漀氀甀琀椀漀渀 昀漀爀 愀渀礀 渀愀椀氀 琀礀瀀攀 漀爀 挀漀渀搀椀琀椀漀渀⸀ 一愀椀氀猀 挀愀渀 戀攀 琀爀攀愀琀攀搀Ⰰ 爀攀瀀愀椀爀攀搀Ⰰ 漀爀 氀攀渀最琀栀攀渀攀搀 眀椀琀栀 愀 猀琀爀漀渀最 愀渀搀 昀氀攀砀椀戀氀攀Ⰰ 猀栀椀渀礀 昀椀渀椀猀栀⸀ 一漀渀ⴀ挀栀椀瀀 挀漀氀漀甀爀 漀瘀攀爀氀愀礀猀 眀椀氀氀 氀愀猀琀 昀漀爀 眀攀攀欀猀 愀渀搀 愀爀攀 攀愀猀椀氀礀 爀攀洀漀瘀攀搀⸀ ꀀ 一漀 瀀爀椀洀攀爀猀Ⰰ 戀漀渀搀攀爀猀Ⰰ 漀搀漀甀爀猀 漀爀 攀砀挀攀猀猀椀瘀攀 戀甀昀昀椀渀最 愀渀搀 昀爀攀攀 昀爀漀洀 栀愀爀洀昀甀氀 挀栀攀洀椀挀愀氀猀⸀ 䈀椀漀 匀挀甀氀瀀琀甀爀攀 椀猀 ㄀ ─ 嘀攀最愀渀 ⴀ 琀栀攀 漀渀氀礀 㔀ⴀ匀吀䄀刀 匀䄀䘀䔀吀夀 刀䄀吀䔀䐀 一愀椀氀 䌀愀爀攀 匀礀猀琀攀洀

䌀䠀伀伀匀䔀 䠀䔀䄀䰀吀䠀⸀ 䌀䠀伀伀匀䔀 䌀䠀伀伀匀䔀 䈀䤀伀 匀䌀唀䰀倀吀唀刀䔀글 㠀㘀㄀ ㈀㐀㘀 㐀㌀㔀 戀椀漀猀挀甀氀瀀琀甀爀攀⸀挀漀⸀稀愀

Midori has regular training sessions to keep its technicians ahead of the latest trends.

The most popular nail services at Midori are manicures and acrylic or gel overlays with nail art.

“We offer a deluxe pedicure with a peel that is extremely popular,” continues Tom. “This phenomenal treatment leaves your feet baby soft and hydrated.”

㈀㄀

㈀㄀㄀

㈀㄀㈀

㈀㄀㌀

匀倀唀一 伀唀吀 伀䘀 䐀刀䔀䄀䴀匀

圀䤀䰀䐀 䄀吀 䠀䔀䄀刀吀

䨀䔀圀䔀䰀䰀䔀䐀 伀倀唀䰀䔀一䌀䔀

刀伀匀䔀圀伀伀䐀 匀吀䄀刀䐀唀匀吀

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Retailing

THE RIGHT STUFF Retailing is a topic about which numerous experts in our industry have written, yet nail salons are still not taking full advantage of this vital opportunity to grow their profit, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

If you are a serious nail professional with a salon looking to maximise your business, then you should pay attention to retail and learn how to go about selling a product.

It’s all well and good offering your clients

remarkable treatments and top-notch service, but are you offering them the complete package deal? This comprises meeting your client’s expectations, not only half of the way but all of the way, by offering them something more.

However, it’s no use just stocking a whole lot of stuff that is not relevant to your clients’ treatments and needs and have your salon looking like a flea market. If you have the products your clients want and need, they will buy from you.

What is important is to look at both the front-end, as well as the back-end, systems of salon retailing, as there are other important factors that will affect how successful you are at retailing. It’s all about having the right product in the right place at the right time – if you don’t, your clients will simply go elsewhere.

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Retailing

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The right stock levels Stocking up and knowing how much and what type of products you need to purchase depends on a number of factors: the salon’s size and location; how many clients go through the salon in a day; how many staff members you have; and, very importantly, the type of treatments being performed.

No matter what the situation you should have a plan in place to make sure you don’t underor over-stock. If your start-up inventory investment is more than you can afford, you need to look at either scaling down or getting assistance. Don’t over extend yourself, especially with a new business, as it will only get you into trouble.

If you are starting out, set a realistic profit goal for a specific number of months. Once you know what you want to make, you can work your way backward to determine your opening inventory level and on-going inventory to reach that goal.

Opening orders and deals have their benefits, but they can also deter salons from purchasing a particular brand or range of products, especially if salons are forced to purchase this way. However, it is definitely something to consider, as an opening order could save you money in the long run, as suppliers usually factor in a discount and possibly free training as well.

Some suppliers will have various different deals to accommodate your specific needs, and they may also offer a 30-day account to salon owners with good credit. This is where developing a good relationship with your suppliers from the start is going to be important and will also make a difference moving forward, as it could be a future investment for them and also creates brand loyalty. You also want to make sure the company is flexible, so find out how they can work with you to help grow your business and theirs.

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Retailing

The right product Make sure you have the right type of products to retail; it’s no use selling products that don’t complement the services you offer or that don’t provide your clients with service longevity.

Also, know what the latest trends, colours and product innovations are, and keep up to date with them. People like to buy items which they have just heard about or seen on celebs featured on social media.

Keep an eye on which products sell faster than others or don’t sell at all and phase them out to make way for those that do. If you manage your retail stock levels properly, your business can only grow from strength to strength.

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The right price Be careful when pricing your retail products as it can often be a deciding factor for a client when purchasing a product.

Interested though they may be, if they can’t afford it they won’t buy it, no matter how much they need it.

If your clientele is younger, or on a lower income bracket, go with the manufacturer’s suggested retail price. However, if your clients are at the higher end, then your retail prices should reflect that, because it’s all part of your salon’s branding.

Determining how much higher will depend on what your competitors are charging in the same area. Your higher-end customers usually don’t mind paying higher prices as long as they don’t feel they’re being taken for a ride and they know the value of what they are getting.

However, everyone loves a good deal and a little something extra from time to time, so don’t forget to reward your regulars and run promotions by linking treatments with products.

This is a great way to introduce a new product.

Retailing

The right place One thing I can’t place enough importance on is to make sure you have allocated a dedicated retail space. Don’t have products just standing about all over the salon, you will never be able to control your stock this way, or prevent product from going missing.

If your retail space looks appealing and is well stocked

I often hear nail techs say, ‘I’m not a salesperson!’ Nonsense!

We are all salespeople in some way or other. If not then how can we be successful at anything?

Firstly you need to get your client’s buy-in before you just pounce on them and try to sell something. For this to happen, they need to learn to trust you.

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As nail professionals we have the perfect opportunity to link retail sales with treatments.

If you are confident and professional in the way you conduct yourself, you have half the battle won already.

Once clients trust and feel comfortable with you, they will also be happy to take your advice and recommendations.

and managed, the potential to sell your products will

definitely be higher.

The right time How do you know when the perfect opportunity to sell to your clients presents itself?

Timing can be everything; how often do you walk into a place and the sales assistant just goes in for the kill before you’ve even had time to browse.?

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Nail Health

The Proper professional natural nail care can improve and maintain the normal health and integrity of the nails and skin and can be very beneficial, writes Sonette van Rensburg When performed professionally, treatments and services can help to provide hydration and moisture, which helps to keep nails tough and durable and the skin supple and smooth.

What needs to be remembered, though, is that with the nail unit being so intricate, there are a number of factors that can affect it and lead to disorders and diseases of the nail, causing it to become abnormal.

The nail plate cannot repair itself in the same way as your skin, because it is made of a non-living substance known as keratin and will have to grow out for a new nail to replace the damaged nail plate. It is therefore highly important to practise safe procedures when performing any nail treatments and services, to prevent damage or trauma and the spread of disease-causing pathogens.

Diseases and disorders Some diseases and disorders of the skin and nails can be very harmful and contagious, leading to various problems in the salon environment. These could be as a result of a trauma to the nail through incorrect manicuring

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techniques, malpractice, poor hygiene, heat, chemicals, or other factors, such as poor nutrition and even ill health.

Understanding the differences between these diseases and disorders, whether they are contagious or not, what causes them and how these conditions are dealt with, is what is going to make all the difference in ensuring they are not spread or made worse.

Severe trauma or disease can sometimes lead to permanent damage or even the loss of the entire nail plate.

Many nail techs don’t know the difference between most of these, and end up causing untold harm to their clients’ nails, with some trying to treat bacterial and fungal infections, and, at times, confusing a harmless condition with a contagious one.

If you are not sure what you are dealing with rather refer your client to a doctor. Only medical doctors and podiatrists are allowed to remove corns, bunions, warts, and ingrown toenails, as well as treat serious and contagious nail conditions, diseases or disorders.

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Contagious conditions These can be caused through improper nail coating application techniques, poor hygiene and sanitation procedures, and the use of contaminated implements and work surfaces.

Pseudomonas or bacterial infection A single cell organism that multiplies and is most commonly found on the nail plate. It is highly contagious, green in colour and feeds off the contaminants in the nail plate. It is often mistaken for a fungal infection and is caused when moisture and contaminants are trapped between the nail plate and nail enhancement. This has to be dealt with very carefully, and in a specific way, to prevent any further cross-contamination as they spread very quickly.

Onychomycosis (fungal infection) Spread through spores and is white to off-white in colour. It is mostly found on the feet due to the feet being more moist, but can occur underneath the nail, between the plate and the nail bed, especially if the nail has been traumatised in any way or if onycholysis is present. A fungal infection is also opportunistic and needs the right environment to grow and spread.

There are many other contagious conditions, such as verrucas or warts, paronychial infections, ringworm, athlete’s foot, to name a few, which can cause untold problems if they don’t get the necessary medical attention.

Non-contagious conditions Some conditions may not be contagious and are caused due to ill health, trauma and poor nutrition, but still require careful attention and care. These include onycholysis, psoriasis, ingrown toenails, corns, bunions and pterygium, and are better treated by a doctor, as they can end up becoming quite serious.

Nail techs can still perform services, but only with caution and the appropriate know-how, on conditions such as leukonychia, onychryptosis, onychopagia, club nails and ridged, brittle, split and peeling nails.

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Know your Chemicals

CUTICLE OILS and QUICK DRY AIDS There are now countless brands and different types of cuticle oils and quick dry aids available on the market, making it difficult to tell which one is best. Sonette van Rensburg provides the lowdown.

Brands will differ from one another in the formulations they use in their cuticle oils and quick dry aids to make their products unique. Different ingredients will of course have different benefits and effects.

Cuticle oil, which I call ‘liquid gold in a little bottle’, is probably one of the most used and sold products in any nail salon. And so it should be as it is used for all hand, foot and nail treatments and has many benefits. It maintains the health of the living skin surrounding the nail plate and also assists the natural nail, improves growth, and prolongs your nail treatments, providing you with service longevity.

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Commonly used ingredients in cuticle oil could be a blend of any or all of the following: jojoba oil, avocado oil, grape seed, apricot kernel, almond oil, coconut oil, vitamin E oil…. and the list goes on. The best ingredients are light penetrating oils or carrier oils, which are the base of most cuticle oils and which penetrate into the nails and skin easily.

Properties

Jojoba seed oil moisturises – the small molecules can penetrate deep into the nail’s layers to condition and soften the nails.

Almond oil softens and conditions – the larger molecules stay closer to the skin’s surface and nourish the upper layers of the skin.

Vitamin E oil softens and reduces the signs of ageing.

Avocado oil moisturises the skin because it easily penetrates the skin. Avocado oil often acts as a great carrier oil to help other oils penetrate deeper.

Grape seed oil seals in moisture and makes the skin soft and flexible.

Rice bran oil softens skin, improves elasticity, helps retain moisture and prevents signs of ageing.

Speedy drying

Quick dry aids, like sprays and drops, assist the solvents in nail polish to evaporate more quickly than normal.

Internationally renowned scientist, author and educator, Doug Schoon, explains how quick dry drops and sprays work:

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“There are thickeners in nail polish that keep it thick. When the nail polish is applied, the solvents evaporate and the thickeners settle and flatten out on the nail. This makes the nail polish layer become thinner and eventually dry to the touch in about 10 to 15 minutes. That’s what normally happens without using a polish dryer.

“Quick dry nail drops are basically another type of solvent, but one that doesn’t dissolve the nail polish.

When applied, the drying drops don’t attack the surface; instead they absorb the solvents in the polish to speed up drying by about 10 to 15 minutes. So basically, the drops speed up the entire process.”

According to Schoon, most manufacturers use silicone materials like cyclomethicone or dimethicone, because they don’t dissolve the polish.

“These types of siliconebased products are great nail polish dryers,” he continues.

“Some natural oils also act as dryers. The ones chosen are picked because they don’t mess up the surface of the nail polish and they absorb nail polish solvents to speed drying. Also, these are better than using a blow dryer since heat can cause these solvents to evaporate too quickly and the polish may dry unevenly, which can reduce shine and durability.

“Different brands use different silicone blends.

There are so many types of silicones to choose from but blends of natural oils and silicones are ideal — as long as they don’t mess up the surface of the nail plate and absorb the solvents.”

Schoon points out that quick dry drops or sprays do not affect the nail plate because the polish acts as a barrier. “They don’t actually touch the nail plate. Even if they did, these ingredients are very safe for skin contact.”

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Step by Step

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Step by Step

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STICK WITH IT

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Step by Step

In the land of milk and honey This ultimate healing and hydration treatment was developed by Milk Solutions.

STEP 1 Cleanse and soak: disinfect the hands with Milk & Honey Refreshing Spritz and blot dry. Soak a cotton wool pad in Milk & Honey Moisturising Polish Remover and remove enamel. Add a scoop of Milk & Honey Soak Therapy, or Mineral Bath, to a bowl of warm water.

Lower the hands into the soak to moisturise the skin and rinse off any traces of enamel or remover.

STEP 2 Exfoliate: distribute Milk & Honey Scrub Mask, or Exfoliating Cream, evenly between your palms and massage into the hands, fingers, forearms and elbows for two to three minutes, being especially gentle with the backs of the hands. Rinse off and pat dry.

STEP 3 Shape and shine: file, shape and buff the nail plate to seal the surface and prevent dehydration and staining.

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Step by Step

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STEP 4 Remove: dab Professional Cuticle Remover onto each cuticle and massage in well. Rinse off and pat dry.

Gently push back the cuticles to loosen and lift any translucent skin from the nail plate. Carefully trim any remaining skin ‘tags’, clean under the free edge of the nail and rinse off the loose skin and cream.

STEP 5 Soften: massage Milk & Honey Cuticle Oil into the nails and cuticles to stimulate blood flow and ensure that the oil penetrates the surface. Follow with Milk & Honey Cuticle Care Cream to further hydrate and condition.

STEP 6 Nourish and hydrate: massage a generous amount of Milk & Honey Hand and Elbow Balm into the skin.

Cover with warm mittens for deeper penetration.

Smooth a thin layer of Milk & Honey Hydrating Mask over the hand, nails and fingers. Leave for three to five minutes, massaging into the skin intermittently to ensure absorption.

STEP 7 Finish: remove any excess product with a hot towel.

Cleanse the nail plate and cuticles thoroughly with Milk & Honey Moisturising Polish Remover before applying a nail treatment polish or base coat to seal the nail surface and bond with the coloured enamel.

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Step by Step

Purple Orchid This beautiful flower design was created

by Alina-Olena Kuzmenko Tools required: light as well as dark coloured acrylic powder and acrylic liquid; light gel polish, base and top coat gel; dark pink and green colour gel; small brushes – number 00 kolinsky and number 4 kolinsky for acrylic; and cleansers and wipes.

STEP

1

Apply white gel polish to the entire prepared nail.

Cure. If necessary apply a second coat and cure.

Apply top coat. Cure and cleanse. Mark the nail with dots where you want to put your flowers.

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STEP

2

Take brush no.4 for acrylic. Dip in acrylic liquid and then dip in light acrylic powder followed by dark acrylic powder (just a touch of dark powder as there must be more light powder). Ensure a small drop on your brush. Apply to nail – the dark powder close to your dot mark, light powder away from the mark.

STEP

3

Wait for it to become matte then press with your brush. Try to make a heart-like shape and flatten. Do the same near to the next mark.

Step by Step

STEP

4

Put two more drops of acrylic to the left and right of your first mark.

Put dark powder close to your dot mark. Wait for this to become matte and flatten with brush.

STEP

7

Take green gel polish and add green stalks. Cure and clean.

STEP

5

Repeat with a second smaller flower. Apply drops, about a third the size of original drops under the petals of first flower. Flatten once they become matte.

STEP

STEP

6

STEP

9

Use yellow or green acrylic inside the flowers (small drops). Wait for them to become matte and make a small hole in the centre with your small brush. With dark gel, dot petals to look more like orchids.

8

Take base coat (no glue as it will destroy the shine) and put drops where you want to add stones

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Put stones. Cure and clean. Apply cuticle oil.

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Q&A

Top Tech Talk In this issue of Nail File, we put the spotlight on Alisha Rimando Botero, world champion nail artist, educator and executive vice-president & creative director of Artistic Nail Design

What sort of training did you undergo to become a manicurist?

What was it like being part of ‘The Dream Team’ at Nails Unique of Japan?

I did 600 hours in Cosmetology School under the nail programme.

Following that you have to pass the State board exams to get licensed. Then you work yourself to death trying to learn what you don’t know (LOL). And then you find a mentor, a nail family, and you continue to grow and develop as a manicurist every day.

A lot of hard work! We had to come up with new techniques for every trip there – and there were over 50 trips between 1998 and 2006. It was a case of always pushing yourself to be your absolute best. Teaching in Japan is unlike anywhere in the world.

You moved from being a manicurist to becoming an educator very quickly.

Please comment on the importance of education in the nail industry.

Education keeps you inspired, on your game and provides you with the knowledge to create the best services. Keeping up to date with what is going on the industry allows you to grow as an artist and in your business.

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When you show Japanese techs a technique, you can go back two weeks later and they have it mastered, while it may have taken you five years to get it right.

It’s highly competitive in Japan and each person takes the utmost pride in their work. But they are all truly humble, astute and respectful students.

What medium do you prefer working with?

Acrylic is my medium of choice. It can make anything and everything strong and beautiful.

Talking of acrylic, you were extremely instrumental in developing new products during your time at Entity Beauty, a company you created in 2004 together with several other industry leaders. Please elaborate.

I was instrumental in the development of a revolutionary acrylic product line that combined hard and soft polymers through a unique liquid method, versus the industry practice of combining powdered forms.

This created a more unified formula and greater usability that changed the definitions of acceptable performance in acrylic enhancement materials.

As a world champion and multiple competition winner, what would you say was your biggest triumph?

Q&A

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For all-time career highlights, I will always consider winning

the 2005 World Nail Championship in Austria my favourite, most memorable and proudest accomplishment.

I was handed the trophy by my best friend, mentor, and the ‘Godfather of Nails’, Tom Holcomb. I could not have had a prouder moment in my career. I must also say that it is a complete honour for me every time Milady/ Cengage Learning, publisher of beauty college textbooks and advanced education, ask me to contribute or author for them.

My heart is in educating the industry. Being a part of the very beginning, when new nail technicians are still in school, really solidifies that I have come to a place in my career where I am giving back on a greater level. Currently, I have contributed to more than five of their textbooks, authored a workbook, and hosted five videos.

Please describe the set of nails that you consider your best work?

I’m always going to choose pink and white when talking ‘best set’ because it’s the hardest to do, technically and artistically.

My best nails would be the World Nail Championship in 2005 or the Pairs Competition in Tokyo in 2004, where Tom Holcomb did one hand and I did the other. We were on opposite sides of the table so we couldn’t see each other working.

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Q&A

“It’s beautiful and wonderful when

you find a technician who can create a full set of 10 nails that are completely different but complement the set perfectly.”

In the end, the hands had to match. Mr Mizuno, CEO of Nails Unique, said the judges couldn’t tell who did which hand. This was a very proud and humbling moment for me!

What would you say are the current trends in nail art?

More is more!! It used to be one feature nail, then two. Now it’s a case of every nail is different; there are stones and foil, tape, 3D, marbling, carving… all on the same set. It’s beautiful and wonderful when you find a technician who can create a full set of 10 nails that are completely different but complement the set perfectly.

Where do you think nail art is headed in the future?

The sky is the limit!

What sets artistic nail design apart from other professional brands?

It’s a product for professional nail technicians, made by professional nail technicians who have been in the nail industry more than 30 years. We believe in education, empowering technicians with tools and knowledge to keep them inspired and making money in this industry. In addition we have patented formulas that allow us the advantage over every other product on the market. No-one can duplicate what we’ve created, they can only imitate.

What can the South African market look forward to from Artistic Nail Design over the next year?

Artistic is always launching what the technicians need; we needed a matching hybrid, long-wearing lacquer that matched our Colour Gloss line. Now we have it with Colour Revolution. We needed a stronger, faster LED lamp and we will see it introduced this soon. We have other amazing innovations on the horizon… just wait and see.

JOHANNESBURG

28 & 29 AUGUST 2016

We are very much looking forward to welcoming you to our stand (E22) at Professional Beauty Johannesburg 2016

Exciting!!

• • • • •

New Top Gel 2 New colours Training courses Nail art demonstrations Fee touch and trial of Calgel