Pb August 2017

August 2017

www.probeauty.co.za

incorporating

Parting

shot

Why therapists leave your employ

steal

BEAUTY

before age Breakthrough formulations to reverse the signs of ageing on the skin

the show Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show Preview

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16

40

In this issue...

Regulars

Spa Focus

Features

5 News

20 Silo Spa set to stand out

34 Fountain of youth

Local and international news

12 Ask the Experts

All your questions answered

15 Insider

Why therapists leave your employ

18 A good induction

How to conduct a thorough and professional induction of new staff members

25 A ‘brightening wax experience’

Depilève Cerazyme Depilbright treatment review

33 Gold rush

Black Pearl 24K Gold Cleopatra Facial treatment review

The latest innovations in anti-ageing skincare

22 Raising the bottom line

40 Sunny side up

Increasing revenue in challenging times

Tracking the industry with stats

16 Hello and goodbye

New spa opens in historical building

Medical Aesthetics 47 Precautionary measures

Focus on sun protection products

42 The body divine

New innovations in device-based body contouring treatments

Implementing preventative measures in your clinic

Features 27 Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo

Show preview

31 Salon Africa

Sneak peek at hairdressing products on display

50 Tattoo over & out

Fotona laser tattoo removal treatment review

52 SAAHSP

The latest news from SAAHSP

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Welcome

2

T

his is always an exciting time for Professional Beauty as the entire office is abuzz with preparations for our annual flagship event – the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show, which runs from 3 to 4 September at Gallagher Convention Centre. Exhibition stands are being snapped up as I write this welcome note, promising a giant smorgasbord of exciting new launches at the show, which attracts thousands of industry professionals each year. In this issue we provide a sneak peek of just some of the products and technologies that will be on display.

As anyone who has been to the show before will know, there is always a significant focus on education. There is the Global Spa & Wellness Spa and Salon Convention (formerly known as the International Spa Convention), as well as several seminar programmes to choose from, namely: Business Skills & Knowledge; Advanced Treatments & Medical Aesthetics; and Nail Techniques & Technology.

Readers might notice a change in the look and layout of this August issue of Professional Beauty – it now has cleaner, more contemporary and business-like design than before. This new format is in line with our overseas publications, reinforcing the fact that Professional Beauty has always been a business magazine. While we regularly feature the latest products, technologies and developoments in the skincare, body care, nails, equipment and aesthetics domain, at heart Professional Beauty exists to assist the owners and managers of salons, spas and skincare / medical aesthetics clinics in the running of their businesses by providing relevant and up to date information.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

August 2017

www.probeauty.co.za

incorporating

Subscribe 9 issues for R510 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

Parting

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Why therapists leave your employ

steal

BEAUTY

before age Breakthrough formulations to reverse the signs of ageing on the skin

the show Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show Preview

On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079

Publisher Mark Moloney

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Managing Director Yolanda Knott

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Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

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The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

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online @ probeauty.co.za

Johannesburg Expo

3-4 September 2017

Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand

Seminar Programme “There is no greater thing you can do with your life and your work than follow your passions – in a way that serves the world and you.”

Richard Branson

The seminar programme provides something for everyone in giving you the opportunity to improve your knowledge and skills. If you are unsure that this is for you, just listen to Richard.

Business building blocks • Meeting Clients needs and building guest Relations • Building your brand with social media • How to set up a spa • Social media and innovative marketing • Motivation, Future thinking • Using the right brand communication • Empowerment through mentorship • Hiring the right staff • Growing your business

Advanced Treatments • Training beyond beauty • Selecting aesthetic device • Key cosmetic ingredients • Use treatment outcomes to grow your business • Effective homeopathic aromatherapy • Permanent hair removal • Treating pigmentation • The importance of aesthetic wound care • Understanding pigmentary disorders

Nail Techniques and Technology • High Gloss Finish • Perfection at your fingertips • Creatively Structured • Nails 911 • Nail Those Profits

THE NAIL & MAKE-UP COMPETITION TAKES PLACE ON MONDAY 4 SEPT. SHOW OFF YOUR SKILLS, ENTER TODAY @ www.probeauty.co.za

These seminars are not to be missed, however seats are limited so book now. www.probeauty.co.za/seminars.htm

5 News

News Unaccredited microblading training breeds controversy Microblading treatments are reportedly being offered to the public by technicians who have received inadequate training in this discipline, according to accredited trainers in the industry.

A form of permanent cosmetic eyebrow tattooing, microblading involves making tiny incisions on the client’s eyebrow area to implant colour into the dermis.

Says Paula Bekker, board member of PCASA (Permanent Cosmetic Association of South Africa): “My fellow board member, Doné Leech, and I have received a number of complaints in the past few months from unsatisfied end consumers (i.e. the public), as well as girls who were ‘trained’ in

microblading at schools within just two days. Some of these schools don’t even let the trainers work on live models.

“As an association PCASA is doing its best to keep the public, as well as the technicians happy, but sadly not always with success as some of the schools offering microblading training are not recognised and they train people without any previous experience in permanent make-up, or any type of beauty background. So, basically anyone can be taught this skill and that’s why we have our hands full.”

Yvette Zacharowitz of Nouveau Contour SA, which offers internationally accredited microblading courses, adds: “It has

become evident that there are many ‘trainers’ or ‘fly by night’ operators in the microblading field. I find it very disconcerting that some of them have not even been in business long enough to see their two-year touch up clients return. They have had minimal training and have very little, or no, embedded knowledge regarding the skin, contra indications, colour and and chemical formulations, not to mention a dire lack of blood borne pathogen information.

“I’m not of the opinion that microblading can only be taught to ladies who already have a permanent make-up background. It is a combination of skill, embedded knowledge and art.”

Marion Burgess has been appointed as CEO for Dermalogica South Africa.

Burgess was most recently MD of Ascendis Health, where she was responsible for heading up consumer brands.

Says former Dermalogica SA CEO, Cherie ten Hope: “After 22 years with Dermalogica, my role has evolved not only to a director/owner, but also as recently appointed chairperson.

I will be involved in the business at a more strategic level and will continue to help steer our journey as a brand and company.

“With that said, it gives me great pleasure to welcome Marion Burgess to Dermalogica.

Marion has won several top sales and marketing awards and was the first female director appointed at Johnson and Johnson SA.”

News in pictures

New CEO for Dermalogica SA

The Brow Bar founder, Unaiza Moideen, and TV personality, Lunga Shabalala, at the recent launch of her fifth store, at The Firs Rosebank in Johannesburg.

online @ probeauty.co.za

News

6

inbrief // South Africa’s hotel / destination spa sector is likely to reap the benefits of an expected growth in tourism, as government implements strategies to attract five million additional tourists to the country within the next five years.

// The Best Beauty

by Stylist 2017 Awards has announced that Exuviance Triple Microdermabrasion Face Polish has won the Best Facial Exfoliator category.

This is the top selling Exuviance product in South Africa.

// Chivone de Lange has joined the Best Lasers team to assist with marketing and branding activities.

De Lange recently graduated from the Vega school of Brand Leadership with an Honors in Strategic Brand Management.

// MatsiMela Home Spa recently supported the Teddy Bear Foundation, by handing out gifts to the children and staff of the foundation. The Teddy Bear Foundation provides holistic services to abused children.

// The Laser Beautique has announced the appointment of Calmy Warder as digital marketing manager, within its head office in Waverley, Johannesburg. Warder is a qualified digital marketer and graphic designer.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Sorbet Group acquired by Long4Life Investment holding company, Long4Life, has concluded a Share Purchase Agreement, subject to certain conditions precedent, for the acquisition of the Sorbet Group of companies comprising health, beauty and grooming outlets situated across South Africa and with an emerging footprint in the UK. The acquisition, which was first announced in Long4Life’s PreListing Statement of 31 March 2017, has been concluded for the entire issued share capital of Sorbet for a maximum consideration of R116 million, to be settled through a combination of cash and Long4Life shares. The effective date of the

acquisition is 1 April 2017.

Says Sorbet founder Ian Fuhr: “My management team and I are excited about the opportunity of working alongside and under the guidance of industry giants, Long4Life’s Brian Joffe and Kevin Hedderwick. We look forward to building Sorbet into a significant health and beauty conglomerate. With the financial backing of Long4Life we will now be able to make acquisitions of other businesses in the sector, while also continuing to launch new formats of the Sorbet brand.”

Sorbet’s first store opened in 2005 and has grown to 186 franchised salons in South Africa, with an emerging footprint in the UK.

Ellipse turns 20

Rohan Opperman, Francois van Veen, Andrea van Eck and Floris Brand

This year Ellipse South Africa is celebrating the 20th birthday of the Ellipse brand, which was founded under the name, Danish Dermatologic Development A/S (DDD), in June 1997.

Says Rohan Opperman, Ellipse South Africa’s co-director along with Francois van Veen: “Since we took over sole distributorship of Ellipse for Southern Africa in July 2016, we have grown our market share with 10 additional systems going into market.

We also introduced a trade in programme solely focused on

assisting our clients to keep up with the latest improvements and additions to the IPL/laser industry.

Furthermore, we developed an in-house coupling gel specifically tailored for IPL and similar treatments with a focus on enhancing clinical results.”

The Ellipse South Africa team will be attending the international distributor meeting in Geneva, Switzerland on 13 September, which coincides with the EADV (European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology) Congress.

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Professional Beauty launches ‘SOS Campaign’ In the run-up to the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo (3 to 4 September, Gallagher Convention Centre), show organiser, T.E. Trade Events, has launched the ‘SOS (Save Our Salons & Spas) Campaign’.

Says Phil Woods of T.E. Trade Events: “We are aware of the challenges that the beauty

industry is currently experiencing due to the economy, with some salons and spas either closing down or retrenching staff.

“With this in mind, our seminar programmes at Professional Beauty Johannesburg will provide useful advice to delegates to help them learn new skills to stay in business. These include improved

marketing and finance, and honing your skills with treatments and innovation.”

For more information on these seminar programmes – Business Skills and Knowledge; Advanced Treatments and Medical Aesthetics; and Nail Techniques and Technology – log on to www. probeauty.co.za.

On a ‘Rapid’ growth path distribution and development company, Blue Sky Distribution

International, launched on 1 July with the RapidLash brand, as well as its two new off-shoots, RapidBrow and RapidHair Hair Volumising Formula.

Says Blue Sky Distribution International CEO, Wayne La Grange: “International Research Laboratories, the California based manufacturer of RapidLash, contacted us to see if we could totally regenerate and relaunch the brand in Africa. It was only previously available through parallel imports and sold directly to end users and did not have a strong professional brand presence locally.

“I had come across RapidLash before and knew it contained amazing active ingredients found in leading professional hair care

systems. We were very excited to be entrusted with this award winning brand. Blue Sky has already opened its national pipeline through its professional stockist-only distribution portal and orders for RapidLash, Rapid Hair and Rapid Brow – an African first – have been supplied to leading professional skin centres and stylists nationwide.”

Blue Sky have launched an international travel incentive for stockists of the Rapid brands, where the top 15 best-selling team of skin therapists, hair stylists and owners nationwide will win an all-expenses paid trip to California, Los Angeles next year.

“We will drive the RapidLash brands into Middle East and the rest of Africa and aim to quadruple the volume of sales in one year. Our distribution chain is very powerful

Jordaan joins Bagheera

Joanita Jordaan

Joanita Jordaan has been appointed national sales manager at Bagheera Pty Ltd, which encompasses Sormé Treatment Cosmetics South Africa and Refineé Anti-Aging Skincare.

Says Bagheera’s Michelle Barrett: “Joanita has more than 15 years in the professional beauty industry. With her strong background in professional and retail sales, and her qualifications and experience as a skincare therapist, Joanita has incredible knowledge and skills to manage our portfolio of brands.”

and we can deliver to 2,000 professional doors in South Africa, or 200 countries in a single day.

Blue Sky serves South Africa through four warehouses, including a medical grade (MCC) facility in Johannesburg that has the capacity to manage pharmaceutical grade product,” comments La Grange.

Blue Sky has also signed its next class leading beauty brand, scheduled to land in South Africa within the next four months from the UK.

News in pictures

South Africa’s newest global beauty

Eight-year-old burn victim, Wanga Badi is receiving pro bono Lumenis UltrPulse CO2 laser treatments with SCAARFX (courtesy of Hitech Lasers) at Life Fourways Hospital by aesthetic surgeons for the Red Cross Children’s Hospital in Cape Town.

online @ probeauty.co.za

News

9

New distributor for Doctor Eckstein Morenga Cosmetics Pty Ltd, the recently appointed distributor for German skincare brand, Doctor Eckstein, has taken on board new salons and spas and is rolling out projects to gain a significant market share within the next 12 to 24 months.

Says Morenga’s Bevinn King:

“The footprint of Doctor Eckstein was previously limited in spas and salons, however I plan to make the brand a household name. Doctor Eckstein pricing is in line with the retail costings of some locally produced brands, with all the benefits of European standards and quality. We

currently have no set opening order for salons, which we believe paves the road for salons and spas to grow with our brand.”

King notes that as a long-term, loyal and devoted customer of Doctor Eckstein himself, he jumped at the opportunity to take over the distributorship.

Lip Voltage comes to SA Emily-Jane Kinnear has secured the sole distribution rights for the Dreamweave Lip Voltage in South Africa.

Says Kinnear: “By chance I used a lip gloss that I picked up at my sister’s apartment, thinking it was just a normal gloss. I soon realised that this was no ordinary gloss and discovered it was the much famed Lip Voltage lip plumper that the girls on the ‘Geordie Shore’ reality show all rave about.

“Having immediately noticed the incredible results, I was utterly disappointed when searching online to try and

purchase the product for myself.

After making friends try the product and seeing their excitement for the plumper, my business partner, Raul Flores and I, were immediately aware of the massive opportunity we might have if we managed to get Lip Voltage into the country.”

She notes that Lip Voltage, which is FDA-approved and not tested on animals, contains a clinically proven peptide collagen ingredient that increases the collagen in your lips by 20%, if used correctly over a 30-day period.

The new design of the lip

Fiori Paris launches Twenty-year-old South African entrepreneur, Raeesa Choonara, has launched her own cosmetics brand, Fiori Paris.

“For the last two years I have been travelling to international beauty shows studying the cosmetics industry as I have been wanting to create my own brand. My aim is not only to produce products that meet the demands of make-up artists, but also the demands of all women. I want to provide the finest products at the best affordable prices,” explains Choonara.

Fiori Paris is launching with an innovative electronic brush cleaner, which spins and dries make-up brushes within seconds.

“We are also launching six super Ultra Lip Colours, in matte and liquid matte options, all of which are long lasting and waterproof,” says Choonara.

online @ probeauty.co.za

plumper allows users to choose their ‘tingle setting’, from no tingle all the way to the hot setting, which gives an immediate big pout.

News in pictures

News

10

Two expert Indonesian therapists, Tiniasih and Tirmi, were in Johannesburg recently to participate in a special Balinese promotion run at the Four Seasons Spa Westcliff, designed to keep the spa’s service offering vibrant. The therapists hail from Four Seasons properties in Bali.

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Business Tips

12

ask

the experts

Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

I’m looking to add some aesthetic treatments to my salon’s treatment menu. What is the difference between skinbosters, mesotherapy, microneedling and redermalisation?

These words are currently trending all over the media at the moment, but what exactly are they, how do they differ, and why have these treatments? I get asked this question by my clients every day. I believe a radiant, glowing complexion starts with hydration in the skin. Think of hydration as the foundations to your house. If you are building, the foundations need to be strong and supportive as they have to support everything that will be built on the surface. So, if the dermis is strong, the epidermis will be better supported and result in better quality skin.

Skinboosters or microneedling are good starting points as they will begin to work on the support structure of the skin, boosting stimulation and restoring its strength, allowing the epidermis to glow and look radiant.

Both skinboosters and redermalisation are treatments

online @ probeauty.co.za

that use an HA (hyaluronic acid), which can either be cross-linked or not cross-linked. The HA is injected into the dermis directly either by hand or with an injector machine. Little droplets are deposited at a certain depth evenly throughout the face; these little bumps are evident on the skin from one to 24 hours post treatment, depending on the method used. These treatments give the skin instant hydration, which is key to the building blocks of our skin.

Mesotherapy is very much the same as skinboosters, it just uses different ingredients that are delivered into the dermis directly.

With mesotherapy you can either use PRP (Platelet Rich Plamsa), a cocktail of antioxidants, or lipolitic solutions. These can be used to enhance the skin’s radiance and glow. If your skin is well hydrated then I would suggest mesotherapy instead of a booster.

Microneedling is one of my favourite all round treatments as it address so many different skin concerns with minimal downtime.

It has been around for many years and started off as a roller but has now advanced to a microneedling pen, which allows the therapist to adjust the depth and speed of needles. The pen has up to 12 needles that pulsate in and out of the skin, making microscopic holes to allow deeper delivery of certain ingredients into the skin.

For me, microneedling looks at treating the skin from outside in, while skinboosters treat the skin from the inside out. Combining these treatments will truly give your client’s skin a WOW effect.

Christina Bowman is owner of Pure Esthetics in Parkmore and Skintronics PTY Ltd, distributor of Vital Injector2, EPN Micro Needling Pen with Electroporation, Alpha-H skincare and Aram Huvis skin analysing devices.

Bowman has worked in the industry for over 15 years and is internationally qualified with a BHSc in Aesthetics.

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The beauty industry is saturated with newly qualified therapists, fresh out of college and eager to start earning a name and reputation for themselves.

We unfortunately often see girls getting into our industry for the wrong reasons, with a disconcerting attitude towards employment. The first attribute that I look out for when interviewing a potential candidate is attitude as I believe that attitude is everything. If you are going to make a good living from being a therapist in the beauty industry, you have to be all in and think of yourself as a standalone business within a salon environment.

You must be committed to your own cause.

Work ethic and loyalty work hand in hand so you need staff that won’t bad mouth each other or yourself (their employer), or indulge in schoolgirl behaviour.

Within the work environment it is

easy to get caught up in office gossip, which is negative and will only bring your team down as negativity breeds negativity.

All too often I interview girls who want to leave their current place of work as they feel their basic salary is too low. The demand for a high basic makes me question the candidate’s ability to perform in both services and retail.

When you look at top earning therapists in any salon, there are a few common factors. Their retail to service percentage is always high, their unwavering work ethic and commitment to the business is apparent, and a drive to exceed client expectations is obvious.

A therapist who is confident that she can perform will often prefer a higher commission and bonus structure over a higher basic and lower commission and bonus structure, as she will have more control over her earning potential.

We are in the service industry.

Business Tips

As a salon manager what should I look for when hiring a therapist?

Weekends, public holidays, early and late shifts are our busiest times and part and parcel of the industry. Too often we see girls fight off working on weekends and evenings, which is when most clients have the chance to come through, so you need to recruit therapists who are willing to accommodate them.

Contracts are there to protect both employees and employers.

It is common practice to include a restraint of trade and penalty charge should a therapist leave the salon within a certain timeframe after being trained, as training costs salons thousands of rands a year.

Tzvia Hermann is the founder and co-owner of The Laser Beautique franchise, Beautique Distribution and Beautique Academy, as well as an internationally qualified laser technician and internationally certified and recognised laser trainer.

online @ probeauty.co.za

15 Business Tips

Insider Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in May 2017.

Insider Spa Surprisingly, retail sales faired better much better than treatment business in May, with 72% of you recording an increase, as compared to the same time last year.

Refresher training, Mother’s Day presents and higher calibre of staff were cited as reasons for the surge in retail sales. However, one spa found that while average guest spend was more, they are buying less and only purchasing retail products if absolutely necessary.

One spa that did see treatment business increase attributed it to a revamped spa menu and increased treatment prices. Other spas found that guests spent a lot on treatments during April (Easter) and then cut back in May. Guests seem to be booking longer treatment durations versus the shorter variety of treatments. One spa group found that only its coastal properties experienced a slight increase in treatment business, although bad weather did adversely influence weekend business in some instances.

We asked you what piece of equipment your spas could not be without and you responded as follows: wax pots; massage beds; steams; hot stone warmer; hot stone pots; facial lamps; facial treatment devices; and spa software.

As to what are the most popular pre-wedding treatments, manicures and pedicures are most requested, followed by massages, nails, waxing/sugaring and facials.

Insider Salon According to recent Stats SA findings, the South African economy moved into recession with a reported decrease of 0,7% in GDP during the first quarter of 2017, having a dire effect on numerous salons around the country. Only 33% of you reported an increase in business in May 2017 as compared to the same time last year.

Not a single salon polled reported an increase in retail business as compared to May 2016. Several salons noted that their clients would much rather buy their skincare products at retail stores.

In terms of essential equipment – salons polled said they do not operate effectively when they do not have wax pots and those that provide nail services said they would not go a working day without UV lamps.

Most of you revealed that bridal clients think the most important pre-wedding treatments are manicures, pedicures, facials and make-up. PB

May 2017 in numbers Average treatment room occupancy

Average treatment room occupancy

64 %

67 %

How did treatment business in May 2017 compare with May 2016?

How did treatment business in May 2017 compare with May 2016?

53%

33% 22% 45%

Better

2% 45% SAME

WORSE

Better

How did retail business in May 2017 compare with may 2016?

72% Better

0% SAME

28% WORSE

SAME

WORSE

How did retail business in May 2017 compare with may 2016?

0%

Better

22% 78% WORSE

SAME

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Tips

16

Hello and

goodbye Ayesha Rajah looks at the issue of

rapid staff turnover in the industry and why therapists feel the need to change.

E

very industry has its challenges and we are no different. When I am asked by a new salon or spa owner what the pitfalls of our industry are and what they should look out for, I can safely answer that the retention of human capital will be one of their largest hurdles.

Those of us who have been in the industry for a number of years can most certainly stand testament to this.

The next question I get asked is how long they should anticipate a staff member staying and this is a tricky one. From the consensus I receive, six to eight months is the average duration of employment. If over a year, then you are doing something right, and if you have retained a therapist for two years or longer, consider yourself a great leader.

Why did she leave without giving notice after being with you for a year?

Questions to ask As business owners we so easily fall into trap of comparing our horror stories of what staff did, how staff left without a reason and the fact that they have no staying power. We often forget to ask the question WHY? Why did she leave when all seemed well?

Why did she leave without giving notice after being with you for a year? Why did she not voice her grievances or speak up in staff meetings?

In my pursuit to get to the bottom of these questions, I began my last few training sessions with exactly the above. Here is what some therapists revealed: • A few therapists were under the impression that they needed to change jobs every year in order to

better their salaries, acquire growth

or gain new skills.

• Another point of concern is that there was neither a clear growth path set out when they initially started, nor was there one after a year of employment.

• Correct values of tips are not paid out, or front desk does not log it correctly.

• Product sale commission given to the wrong therapist.

• There is favouritism between management and certain staff.

• What came up a number of times is that if you have new staff members, they are kept doing lower ticketed services such as manicures and waxing, whereas older staff members get higher valued services.

• Therapists voicing ideas or change are never heard; hence they feel it is of no benefit voicing grievances.

• Long hours of work with little value given to their personal time.

• Management does not respond quickly enough to internal staff conflict.

• Their pay slips include deductions that were not fully detailed.

These comments indicate that there are evidently issues on both sides. It is imperative that details like work hours, overtime, tips and other expectations are managed from the first interview and strictly adhered to as best as possible.

Communication with your staff is one of the key fundamentals for having a happy relationship with your staff and ensuring their long-term loyalty to your business. PB

Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and SkinDoctors. ayesharajah@ai-importers.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za

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Business Tips

18

good A

INDUCTION

Debbie Merdjan reveals how a professional and thorough induction of new staff members is vital to the smooth running of your business.

Y

our spa needs new staff? You’ve advertised and interviewed and after a rigorous process, you’ve finally employed a new staff member.

Your employee is about to walk through the door for her first day in your spa.

Employing somebody new is an investment. You want the very best out of your new therapist. You want her to be excellent at her job, to be with you for a long time, to be loyal, to do well and in turn, to do well for you. It is therefore vitally important that from Day 01 you talk to your new employee; teach her, show her, guide her, include her and make it very clear how everything works.

You will have been through a lot of detail during the interview, but on Day 01 you need to talk about your spa’s mission statement, ethos and your vision. A good induction helps to build a strong team. It helps to build loyalty and respect and close working relationships.

It will ensure that you get the very best out of your employee and that she, in turn, gets the very best out of you.

Tour guide Give your new employee a tour. Show her where everything is kept and expose her to every aspect of the business even if it is not her responsibility.

Help her to settle in. Introduce her to everyone because in your spa or salon, everyone is important. And then go over your company values. Include your other employees in the induction. It’s always a good idea to reinforce company culture and remember, you don’t have to do this in a very formal way in a boardroom.

Sit around a cup of coffee and chat. Make the induction welcoming and easy.

Research has shown that someone coming into an environment that is ‘hostile’ is unlikely to last. Be the one to introduce, help and guide. If you can’t do it, ensure you have a brilliant manager who can. You can also have an ‘Induction Checklist’ that can include not only your mission statement and core values, but also the office alarm code, the computer login password and what to do if there is a fire.

Ensure that your new employee understands what is expected of her. Don’t take it for granted that she knows her job description, work hours or her responsibilities. Be clear from the very beginning so there are no misunderstandings later on.

Team player Make your new recruit feel like a part of a team. If you see her eating alone, extend an invitation. Give her a welcome card from the team. Post a welcome status on your Facebook page. And, ensure that your whole team is warm and welcoming. You don’t want to be super friendly while a resentful employee is being awful.

Nip any problems in the bud. Remember, a new job can be daunting. Chat to your new staff members every few days and ask them for feedback. Give feedback too. Talk, often and openly. Be clear. Welcome! PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982, started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997. dm@camelothealth.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za

Spa & Salon Convention Sales, marketing, staff motivation, finance and innovation are five critical factors in maintaining a successful spa.

This convention guarantees* that you will come away with at least two practical ideas to implement in your business to attract more customers and make your spa operation more profitable and efficient.

Build your sales and make your staff profitable – Venetia Butler, head trainer at Sales Guru The Client of the Future – Changes in Spending Habits, treatments and product trends Marisa Dimitriadis heads up a panel discussion that could change your whole business approach.

Perspectives on Wellness: how can the Spa & Beauty industries get a slice of the ‘next big thing? Rob Cowling, Keynote speaker Get tough with those soft skills – tips and tricks to get the right attitude from your staff to ensure happy clients. A panel discussion chaired by Debbie Merdjan of Camelot Spas Trenovate – John Sanei a trend specialist full of ideas and inspiration Money, Money, Money! - Panel discussion chaired by Francisco Garcia on the business of finance When all else fails, turn to your people – Ian Fuhr: Building a culture that helps you get through the tough times.

Don’t just sit there, Act Now and make a difference! John Sanei gives you some top tips and ideas to get you motivated. * If you have not come away with at least two new ideas to improve your spa business, then email us within 7 days of the event and we will refund your delegate fee, no questions asked.

FOR FULL DETAILS VISIT www.probeauty.co.za/spa.htm

3-4 September 2017 At Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand It’s all about the business……

PART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY EXHIBITION

Our Silver Sponsor:

Spa Focus

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Silo Spa

set tostand out Located within a spectacularly renovated historical building that towers over Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront, The Silo Spa recently opened its doors for business, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

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art of the locally owned family business, The Royal Portfolio Group, the 5-star Silo Hotel was built in the grain elevator portion of a grain silo complex that dates back to the 1920s.

Opened in March this year, The Silo Hotel occupies the top six floors of the building and features beautiful pillowed windows that afford guests breathtaking views of Cape Town.

Says Asiya Ebrahim, manager of The Silo Spa: “We are situated on the 4th floor, which is part of the grain elevator portion of the building. In line with the 5-star feel of the hotel, our spa’s style reflects classic elegance and luxury.

“Due to the lack of space on our floor we only have a sauna, but our guests have access to a stunning outdoor pool on the rooftop (11th floor) of the hotel.

We have a team of five fully qualified therapists, who come with years of experience in the industry.”

online @ probeauty.co.za

She notes that one of the company values is to provide value, superior and personalised service. “That is something we are exceptionally focused on as a team.

The spa is new to the industry so we want to set ourselves apart by ensuring that each interaction with our guests leaves a lasting impression. It will be challenging to compete in a competitive market as there are so many other spas in Cape Town, but I believe our focus on personalised interactions and custom treatments (as far as possible) and impeccable service will differentiate us.

“We are opened to the public as well and have been very blessed to have had a fantastic reception by the local market in our opening months. I would say at this point there is an equal split between hotels guests and local clientele.”

Exclusive brands Among its selection of brands, The Silo Spa offers two that are exclusive to it, the first being Carol Joy. Says Ebrahim “This is a high end anti-ageing brand from the UK. It was developed in Germany and uses the most coveted ingredients available – from medical grade collagen to golden millet oil, which is extremely effective in the treatment of ageing.

“LING skincare is also exclusive to us. This wonderful brand has its roots in Asia. The creator of the brand, Ling Chan, is an aesthetician with over 40 years of experience and has treated the concerns of many celebrities out of her studio in New York. She has combined ancient Asian remedies with state of the art technology to create a brand that is unique and results driven. We chose LING because I felt there is nothing like it available in South Africa at the moment. For example, before all LING facials we use a machine called the Energy Lift, to balance the body, because the face/skin cannot be treated in isolation. This is a concept that I really like.”

Spa Focus

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Grain and gold

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Signature treatments at The Silo Spa were designed with a focus on efficacy and luxury.

“Both Carol Joy and Black Pearl are uber luxurious and indulgent, while still providing exceptional results” explains Ebrahim. “We chose Carol Joy as one of our signature treatments

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CMY

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Opened: 1 March 2017 Owner: The Royal Portfolio Group of Hotels Spa manager: Asiya Ebrahim Size: 120 square metres Hydro features: Sauna, outdoor pool Number of therapists: 5 Number of treatment rooms: 5 (2 can be converted into couples’ rooms); dedicated mani & pedi area Brands: Carol Joy, Ling, Black Pearl, Terres d’Afrique, QMS

because of the golden millet oil, which is extracted from the millet grain and known as ‘the beauty grain’. As our spa is located in a grain silo, we liked that connection.

“With Black Pearl’s 24K range, the focus is on using actual gold in the treatments. This precious metal’s connection to South Africa was also a plus in our selection process.” PB

ESP - YOUR SALON & SPA MANAGEMENT PARTNER TELEPHONE: 086 0994163 EMAIL: info@esponline.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

www.esponline.co.za

22 Spa Focus

Raising the bottom line The drastically changing market place has resulted in many salons and spas having to close their doors over the past year. Marisa Dimitriadis reveals how to increase revenue in these challenging times.

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espite the tough global economy, it is evident that the health and wellness industry is still one of the fastest growing industries worldwide. Now more than ever before the consumer looking for ways to decrease stress, stay healthier, get fitter and live longer.

However, consumers have definitely decreased spend when it comes to beauty services; they are still going but far less than before. The consumer is looking for quicker services that give instant gratification.

One of the best parts of my job is dealing with a large variety of salons and spas, from one room-one therapist salons, to huge 20 room-20 therapist spas. When given the task of increasing revenue and profit, I always start with the basics, as detailed below.

Daily business analysis It’s essential to analyse your business on a daily basis. The spreadsheet will grow as your business changes but the important items you need to see are: • Total spend per client • Service vs retail % ratio • Unsold hours percentage • Specialised treatment bookings • Complimentary and training hours • Promotions sold • Repeat guest ratios • Most popular treatments and more.

From the above you are able to make important decisions on a daily basis to drive the revenue, but without this you are sailing a ship without a map.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Daily / weekly staff meetings

Purchase a piece of equipment

The daily meetings are really 5-minute ‘pow-wow’ sessions to go over every therapist’s plan and how you can increase her forecasted revenue/upsells and retail sales.

Weekly meetings must be about sharing figures, guest feedback, training feedback and goals for the following week.

If you don’t already own a piece of equipment that generates high profit, then you must seriously analyse your business. Consumers these days want machines that produce results, so act quickly and invest in a results driven machine.

Consolidate your product ranges Don’t think that if the consumer doesn’t know the brand, then it won’t sell. You and your team control exactly how the consumer will feel about the brand you are stocking.

If your product margins are good but the product is just not moving, call in your supplier, book training, offer promotions, do everything in your power to make it work before you rush to change product ranges.

Complete your SOP manual The most valuable operations asset you can give your business is the SOP (Standard Operating Procedures) manual. This is your bible and clearly outlines all service standards and what is expected of each staff member.

Train your staff on each procedure and implement strict evaluation systems.

Book education classes Managers and owners – have you booked your own training classes? You can’t run your business efficiently and effectively without additional education.

Book every single member of staff on refresher training for the product houses you stock. Make it compulsory salon policy that they attend yearly and ask them to list 10 new things they learnt at the training session. This reveals what made an impression in their minds so you can build on it.

Plan your promotions for the year If you plan your promotional calendar with your staff and suppliers a year in advance, it makes it easier to implement the promotion every month, or quarter, or season.

Decide whether you will offer monthly, seasonal or quarterly promotions and then make each staff member in charge of that promotion, from the ordering of the promotional stock, to the printing of flyers or posters, to the sms promotion message, to staff incentives, etc.

Always be sure to give parameters in which to work, for example you can allow staff to order promotional stock up to the value of R2,000, but beyond that they need your approval.

Plan at least one function If done correctly, functions will keep your salon/spa top of mind and your customer loyal. Plan a salon birthday cocktail function, a charity fundraiser, a two-hour 40% sale, a bring a friend and win, etc. Even if it is just once a year, go out of your way to do something more, different and bigger and give clients adequate notice thereof.

Get online Create a website where your clients can buy product, vouchers and ask you for advice online. The more you interact with your client while they are at work or at home, the bigger your advantage.

Get a strong social media campaign going with a professional that can reach the right audience, not just a large following that does not produce turnover. Get your salon/spa listed with on-site/on-location online booking applications. This will help fill your empty slots as well as give you the opportunity to get that consumer into your salon for the services they cannot have at their home or office.

Start yielding your prices and services The bottom line is that you need to charge more when the demand for the service is higher. In order to do this efficiently and effectively you need to have a thorough business analysis (point 1 above of the basics) over a few months. If the demand for treatments is higher after 4pm and on Friday and Saturday, then have a surcharge for treatments over those times. Or you can do it the other way around and have a big price increase now, and then offer reduced rates for bookings that are not in your peak times. Either way you need to charge more for services at peak times as this will help towards filling up your quieter days. PB

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

Spa Focus

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‘brightening’ WAX EXPERIENCE

Michelle Scheepers tries out the brand new Depilève Cerazyme Depilbright Skin Care Epilation treatment and discovers the many benefits of this unique wax.

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arrived at Smart Buy Depilève in Johannesburg to learn that my Cerazyme Depilbright treatment would not only leave me hair free, but also brighten my skin.

“In addition it will lighten any pigmentation spots,” said Smart Buy Depilève area manager and trainer, Adri Maritz. “All Depilbright treatment products are formulated to act on hyperpigmentation, help prevent spot formation and brighten the skin tone. Depilbright uses the highest percentage permitted of active ingredients that have skin lightening, antioxidant and moisturising properties. The system is suitable for the face and body.”

Maritz explained that both the Depibright film wax and strip wax contain Alpha-Arbutin (which inhibits tyrosinase – one of the major enzymes involved in spot formation), as well as White Mulberry root for its bleaching properties.

My treatment commenced with the eyebrow wax, encompassing the area underneath, above and between the brows. Maritz applied Depilbright Make Up Remover to cleanse the area, followed by the anti-bacterial DermoBalance Lotion. Thereafter came the Depilbright Intimate & Facial Serum, which contains Gatuline Spot-Light to act against pigmentation.

Once the serum had fully dried, Maritz applied the Depilbright film wax with a spatula and then removed it after a few seconds. It didn’t hurt at all.

She then reapplied the serum, which felt very soothing on the skin. My lip wax followed the same procedure. To demonstrate the pore refining benefits of Depilbright, Maritz also applied wax to my nose.

The facial treatment ended with the application of Depilbright Facial Cream with SPF 20, which was massaged into the waxed areas. I was amazed at how my skin glowed, plus there was no redness at all.

Said Maritz: “The heat of the film wax causes pore dilation, thereby stimulating blood flow and creating

micro channels to ensure deep penetration of the serum. Because the wax has an exfoliating effect, it simultaneously rejuvenates the skin, resulting in what Depilève calls a ‘porcelain polished effect’.”

She explained that in salon, the therapist would give the remainder of the serum to the client for home care.

Next came my underarm wax, also performed with the film wax and preceded by application of the DermoBalance Lotion and serum, and followed again by the serum and a massage with the Depilbright Body Lotion.

For my leg wax, Martiz used the Depilbright Strip Wax, which is applied from a cartridge onto skin prepped by the DermoBalance, followed by the Depilbright Body Serum. Once the wax was removed, the serum was reapplied. When it had dried, the Body Lotion was massaged into the skin.

This really was the most amazing waxing treatment. Who would have thought that a wax could have a skin brightening effect?

CONTACT Smart Buy Depilève: 011 888 9044

online @ probeauty.co.za

Treatment Review

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JOHANNESBURG 3 & 4 SEPTEMBER 2017 GALLAGHER CONVENTION CENTRE Times are tough, salons are suffering. Professional Beauty aims to give you the tools to keep going and build your business.

In visiting the exhibition you will not only find over two hundred exhibitors with products and ideas to keep you ahead, we created our own fantastic initiative to help you progress even more.

Attend our seminars you will be able to gain new skills and ideas to help you and your business survive the current climate.

#saveoursalons

SOS Save Our Salons & Spas

The Save Our Salons and Spas initiative is to help you keep ahead of the competition and survive the recession.

By attending the show and taking full advantage of all that is there, you can benefit both personally and in running your business.

• Spa and Salon Convention • Four different seminar programmes • Nail and Make-up competition (Go on, show off your skills) • Professional Beauty Awards presentation • New product innovations to see • Treatment demonstrations • Special offers

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27 Professional Beauty Johannesburg

Calling

all industry PROFESSIONALS

Professional Beauty Johannesburg, the biggest event of its kind in Africa, runs from 3 to 4 September at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand. We take a look at just some of the exciting new innovations and products that will be on offer at the show.

27Red StageLine Professional Makeup (Stand F30) will host demos by renowned make-up artist, Rocio Jimenez, from StageLine Professional Makeup Spain. Products will be sold at wholesale prices on the stand.

Africa Professional Nail Distributors (Stand H18) will launch the HyridGel, Gel Fusion Technology Collection, My Precious Stones and the Andreia Chrome Powders that come in pink Chrome, Mirror and Holographic.

Angelic Nails (Pty) Ltd (Stand M25) is launching the Eeze-Soak Gel Polish range and celebrating the build up to its 10 year anniversary. Spend R500 or more to qualify for discounts of up to 30%.

Bagheera Cosmetic Distributors (Stand A24) will introduce its new, professional treatment based make-up that complements skincare regimes and salon treatments. There will be demos on the stand, plus the launch of a new, professional marine based skincare line from Germany.

BioDermal Skin Tech (Stand E40) will launch its professional range and offer 20% off all products purchased at the show.

Collagen Lift Paris (Stand E18) invites show visitors to try its premium product, Collagen Lift ‘Red Carpet, and enjoy a 20% discount. Cindy Nell, former Miss South Africa, will be on the stand to answer questions.

Biomedical Emporium (Stand D23) utilises only quality, pharmaceutical grade raw materials in all formulations. All products are cosmeceutical and thus offer medicinal benefits.

Dermacare Distributors (Stand H1) will showcase Holiday Elastique film wax (now also available in beads), as well as an all new film wax with added shea butter, which spreads thinner, heats lower and stays even more flexible.

Bio Sculpture Gel (Stand F22) – Bio Sculpture head of education, Tania Biddle, will lead the seminar topic of, ‘The perfect French illusion’, while the nail competition sponsored by Bio Sculpture will focus on gel tip overlays and sculpting.

BYS Cosmetics (Stand F31) will offer 25% off the retail price exclusively at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo.

Doctor Eckstein South Africa (Stand D27) offers industry professionals a wider range of products to meet their salon and client needs.

ESP Salon & Spa Software (Stand D32) is offering the following discounts: 15% discount on Evolve Xpress Bundle; 25% discount on Evolve Professional Bundle; or 10% discount on any additional module(s) purchased at the show.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Johannesburg

28 Eyenvy South Africa (Stand L23) is a breakthrough formula eyelash growing serum from Canada. It lasts for at least seven months and is now the number one product in Australian salons.

Farmona Natural Cosmetics Laboratory (Stand C10) will showcase its Herbal Care line of products for face, body and hair.

The line is inspired by the richness of nature, based on natural plant extracts and is free of parabens, mineral oils, artificial dyes and alcohol.

Fiori Paris (Stand H16) will showcase the innovative electronic wash, spin and dry make-up brush cleaner that washes away years of dust stored within the bristles in seconds. Fiori Paris Ultra Matte and Ultra Pigment Matte Lipstick will be discounted by 10%.

Patterson, international Emmy Award-winning make-up artist from Los Angeles, on the stand to demonstrate the latest techniques in SFX, ultra high definition makeup, airbrush and body painting. Show visitors can save up to 40% on selected products.

Hitech Lasers (Stand C12) will showcase the Lumenis LightSheer® Diode Laser, which offers a unique and effective solution for permanent hair reduction, providing optimal results with maximal treatment comfort. ikhokha.com (Stand L21) – get paid anytime, anywhere by simply plugging iKhokha into your smartphone. It’s a card machine in your pocket.

Laser Aesthetics South Africa (Stand B32) will launch the Aesthetic Package, comprising three machines: Cryo Sheer Aqua Multiwavelength Diode Laser Hair Removal; Portable RF Microneedle & Fractional RF system; and Eye Fix (eye care system). Normal package price: R645 000; Professional Beauty launch price: R400 000 excl. vat.

Lip Voltage South Africa (Stand L8) – a first in South Africa, the Lip Voltage lip plumper and Lash Magnet mascara. The lip plumper contains a peptide and collagen that re-hydrates the body’s natural fluids.

Imedeen (Stand B3O) – Imedeen tablets deliver key nutrients into the deep layer of the skin (the dermis), which comprises the skin’s building blocks, namely collagen and elastin. A show special will be offered on the stand.

Love Bug Sterling Silver (Stand F41) is a gorgeous range of 925 Sterling silver wholesale jewellery individually packaged and supplied on a merchandising stand. The collection consists of delicate necklaces and ear rings.

FLOSLEK Cosmetic Laboratory (Stand E22) is a Polish company with over 20 years of experience in producing cosmetics for complete face and body care and protection.

It will launch its new line of cosmetics, SELFIE, for the active woman.

Gina@work (Stand C16) – the famous Salon and Healthcare Collections are now available for online ordering delivered within three days. Purchase any garment from the online store and receive 10% discount from 3 to 10 September 2017. (Voucher code is PB 10) Graftobian Makeup South Africa (Stand G8) will have Suzanne

online @ probeauty.co.za

Kalahari Lifestyle (Stand E15) – retail and professional promotions will be available for new and existing clients. A 10% discount will be offered on the Kalahari Botanical buffet set and show visitors can save 10% when they purchase a Phyto Compound set, an essential professional skincare kit, or the Kalahari Manipedi Set. Kryolan SA (Stand F23) will host live make-up demos and offer 20% discounts on payment upfront, either cash or EFT, on the stand.

Luscious Lashes International (Stand M2) – the new Power-Patch Cosmetic Eye-pads are a breakthrough in eye skin treatment and can improve the penetration of active cosmetic ingredients. Sign up for any Luscious Lashes Classic Lash or Microblading Courses at the Expo and get R1,000 off the regular price.

Mia Secret Professional Nail System (Stand L33) international educator from Mexico, Arturo Osorio, will be on the stand.

Medilase (Stand C12) will showcase two systems – the Viora V30 multi-technology platform with a choice of five applicators with different technologies to offer the most requested aesthetics treatments, and the INTERmedic Gynelase, a CO2 laser for feminine rejuvenation.

Nailsforu (Stand F4) will showcase a wonderful new easy to remove LED/UV cured gel top coat applied over your favourite brand of basecoat and polish. It promotes a smooth, gel like effect, improves performance and longevity, and provides a protective, hardwearing, durable polish overlay.

training booked at the show. Pop a balloon at the stand and you may receive up to 20% discount.

NSI JHB (Stand F15) has been the pioneer in nail technologies, providing professional nail techs products to enhance efficiency and profits for their businesses.

QD Pro-Design Nails (Stand L4) will have free giveaways at least twice a day. World expert nail artist and professional teacher, Elena Lakutina, will present demos. QD offers nail art, gel polish, builder gels, acrylics and accessories.

Radiant Healthcare (Stand A22) will showcase the CE-medically approved PLASMATEK device, a high precision instrument with patented plasma technology. .

Promotional offer: Receive 10% discount on all equipment purchased at the show (offer is valid for two weeks after the show).

Ofra Cosmetics SA Distributors (Stand K1) will launch the new OFRA X Collaboration NikkiTutorials Collection Set. NikkiTutorials have over 7 Million followers. Free product samples will be handed out at the stand.

Discounts will be offered.

Nouveau Contour (Stand E29) will launch many new and exciting cutting edge products at the show.

Visit the stand for special offers and more information on joining the leaders in permanent cosmetics.

Pure Smile (Stand L22) – 100 percent natural teeth whitening treatment in a 30-minute, once off session: R390 instead of R790. 100 percent natural instant whitening toothpaste: R40 instead of R49.

New activated coconut whitening charcoal: buy one and get the toothpaste for free.

Parfums Lekay (Stand H3) is proud to introduce a range of luxury handmade parfums, all limited editions.

Planet Nails (Stands K18 & K18A) will offer its famous ‘Crazy Specials’ on a wide range of products. Discounts of 50% and more off on selected nail and beauty products.

Rani Kone General Trading L.L.C (Stand K22) will showcase the exciting new range of Henna Palm Decoration products.

RégimA Skin Treatments (Stand C2) will launch the Spazone Range.

High technology, world first technology, eco designed and containing unique new patented dynamic ingredients categorised as ‘a second skin active’.

Skinny Tan (Stand J15) offers natural sunless tan products which tan and tone the body.

SKNLOGIC cosmeceutical skincare (Stand H5) will launch a Hydrating Serum (containing hyaluronic acid, shea butter, argan oil, grape seed oil, olive oil, aloe leaf

NPM South Africa (Stand F1) – SL Academy & Clinics introduces the latest advanced ways of doing and learning permanent make-up, microblading, HFS and paramedical procedures. A 10% discount will be offered for all

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Professional Beauty Johannesburg

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Professional Beauty Johannesburg

30 extract, fig extract, powerful anti-oxidant complex Vitamin C & E, and glycolic acid) and a Multi Active lotion.

Smart Buy Depilève (Stand D14) will launch Depilève Cerazyme Depilbright, the skin brightening professional hair removal recommended for ethnic skin tones such as Asian, African, Indian and Latin American. Depilève trainer, Paola Frizzarin from Spain, will do demonstrations and show new waxing techniques.

Sparkle Cosmetics (Stands H14, G14, G10 & H8) will introduce the revolutionary Gelish PolyGel and Gelish Dip. Opening order specials on Gelish and Morgan Taylor and discounts on Sparkle Nail Academy courses. New exclusive nail techniques and nail art demos will be presented by International Master Educators.

Spraytan Sunless Tanning (Stand M5) – buy two of the new Lash & Brow cleansers with Tea Tree and receive a third one free. Huge discounts on new kit purchases at the expo.

The Lash Collection (K20) will launch The Brow Collection International Microblading Academy and its products and offer a gift to visitors who sign up for a microblading course. Hilaree Brand, Global Master Lash Educator, will be on the stand on 4 September. Live demos of Classic Lash, Volume Lash and threading.

The Spa Consultants (Stand E4) – visit their interactive demo area for some innovative new facial treatment techniques and meet with business development strategists to see how your business can double profits. On the hour giveaways to five lucky show visitors.

Venus Concept (Stand B8) will launch the Venus Freeze Plus long term anti-ageing and body shaping system and Venus Velocity Diode Hair Removal (1.7cm2 / 3.5cm2 / 7cm2 footprints).

Vivid Rose (Stand J20) is the agent for Color Club Sub-Saharan Africa.

From the boldest neons to the most radiant holographic, Colour Club nail lacquers and gels come in every shade under the sun.

Xtreme Lashes SA (Stand K2) has launched Advanced Volumation Training. Sunday only special. All visitors will be able to purchase the Xtreme Lashes Medically Graded Adhesive (normally only sold to stylists who have completed the Xtreme Lashes Level 1 Classic Training). There is a 15% Discount on Volumation Training, if combined with a Level 1 Training course. A 25% discount on 1 hour lash extension applications and a 20% discount on all retail priced items will be offered.

Twincare International (Stands D4, K14b, K14a, C6 & C8) – distributor of Matis, Guinot, IBD, Artistic and Screaming Beauty.

Studex - APS (Stand G4) will demonstrate to salon owners how offering a Studex® ear piercing (as well as belly and nose piercing) service can increase both income and foot traffic into their business.

Synergy Prosales Company (Stand C29) will expose its brand “C-bo®” for fashion and piercing earrings and “Or Bleu®” for cosmetology/ beauty tools and hairbrushes.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Young Nails/E.MI (Stand F5) – all items will be less 10%. While stock lasts, only for the duration of the show.

TIME HAIR DOWN to let your

Salon Africa, the leading trade show for the hairdressing industry on the continent, offers visitors the opportunity to experience the latest brands and products, as well as show stopping performances on the live stage.

Salon Africa runs on 3 and 4 September, at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand. Here are just some of the exhibitors.

All About Hair Supplies (Stand F31) – is a direct importer of the Karibelly Colour Action Range from Italy. Exclusive show specials: Karibelly colour action range at R60 per 100ml tube. Purchase R300 and receive a10% discount voucher on your next order.

Asili Natural (Stand K8) will demonstrate the use of its flagship product and launch the ‘I’m every woman campaign’. All products sold at 2016 prices, subject to a minimum order of R555.

Beard Boys (Stand D 20) will launch ‘never seen before’ items for the male grooming market.

Up to 40% off Selected Products

Bigen (Incity Hairdressing Supplies) (Stands C4 & C5) – Purchase five dozen or more Bigen Hair Dye packs at Salon Africa and pay just R230 per dozen.

Brazilian Hair Secrets – Olenka Cosmeticos (Stand E4) will launch the Royal Look Brazilian Straightener from Olenka Cosmeticos – Brazil. No formaldehyde, no gloves, no smell, no smoke. Live demo at the expo.

15% off the price.

Earth Natural Hair Products (Stand E6) will offer R100 off the Earth Natural Hair complete pack, comprising five products that are normally sold for R400. Customers will be expected to complete certain social media tasks at point of sale.

Glamour Hair Emporium (Stand E23) will launch its Nano Hair Extensions. With beads 90% smaller than regular micro rings, they are for women with thin hair who desire length. Also launching is super tape for tape-in hair extensions. R50 off any full set of hair extensions (100 pieces).

Discount only valid on presentation of voucher.

Inoar (Stand L19) will launch the Inoar Ghair Botox Treatment, a quick and instant fix for damaged hair, and the Kálice Multi-functional oil, which contains seven precious vegetable oils including argan, macadamia, ojon, sweet almond, jasmine rosemary and myrrh.

Mane Concept (Stand E31) is a premium brand of Lace Front Wigs and Weaves. The range consists of both high temperature Futura fibre, as well as 100% human hair style mix.

Morrocanoil (Stand E7) – the original Moroccanoil Treatment revolutionised the haircare industry. The Morrocanoil formulas are antioxidant infused, nutrient rich, innovative and provide dramatic results.

Natural Moisture (Stand K5) is the 2016 African Hair Award Best Natural Hair Care Range Winner.

All products marked down at the show.

Rapple Salon Products & Equipment (Stand C15) recently launched a new range of hair products, Jean Paul Myne, imported from Italy. Jean Paul Myne Keratin treatments are 100% formaldehyde free and its shampoos and conditioners sulphate free.

Xuchang Fuxin Hair Products/ Queena Hair/Evisheva (Stand F5) will offer Peruvian virgin hair, 13*4 closure, and 360° closure and also offer OEM service and online sales.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Salon Africa

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33 Treatment Review

Gold rush Joanna Sterkowicz opts to go for gold by experiencing the deluxe Black Pearl 24K Gold Cleopatra Facial.

I

was particularly looking forward to this facial as I knew it involved the application of actual gold on the skin, a concept I found intriguing.

My facial was performed at Dr Natasha Chapman’s practice, Aesthetics on 5th, in Hyde Park, Johannesburg. On arrival, therapist Pumla Mathambo mentioned that while Aesthetics on 5th is a medical aesthetics clinic, Dr Chapman brought in Black Pearl as she wanted to give clients the option of a really luxurious, pampering and relaxing treatment, namely the 24K Gold Cleopatra Facial.

To commence the treatment, Mathambo performed a welcome ritual in the form of a neck, shoulder and head massage. Next came the double cleanse phase, starting with the Milk Cleanser to nourish the skin and remove make-up, followed with the Face Mousse Cleanser, which is mildly exfoliating. Mathambo then put my face under a steamer and applied one of Black Pearl’s Prestige Capsules.

Said Mathambo: “The anti-ageing benefits of gold were renowned even in the time of Cleopatra.

Pure gold has antioxidant and antimicrobial effects, so it helps improve skin circulation and alleviate environmental damage, while creating a natural skin firming effect and a smooth, even tone.

“This mask combines 24K gold with black mud from the Dead Sea and is enriched with vitamins, plant oils and extracts.”

The mask was left on for 20 minutes during which time Mathambo performed a hand treatment, comprising a cleanse with the Mousse Cleanser, followed by the Pearl Peeling Mask and the G-Mask Gravity Black Mud Mask. I was fascinated to observe how the mask is removed, as the therapist wraps a stone with magnetic properties in a tissue and then moves the stone just above the mask. The stone attracts the minerals in the mask, like a vacuum cleaner, leaving the skin bare. Mathambo then massaged my hands with the Nourishing Hand & Nail Cream.

She used the same method to remove the 24K Gold Cleopatra Mask, only in this instance, my skin was left with a gold tint. Thereafter, Mathambo performed a pressure point massage, using the stones, to ensure the remainder of the mask was absorbed into my skin and to stimulate lymphatic drainage and improve circulation.

Once that was completed, she applied the Pure Collagen Firming Serum and the 24K Precious Day Cream.

I couldn’t believe how beautifully my skin glowed after the treatment. No wonder Cleopatra used to sleep in a gold mask every night to preserve her complexion.

CONTACT Black Pearl: 082 560 0262

The anti-ageing benefits of gold were renowned even in the time of Cleopatra.

“The capsule acts like a serum and contains vitamins B, C and E as well as ginseng,” she commented.

Once the capsule had been fully absorbed into my skin. Mathambo applied the 24K Gold Cleopatra Mask.

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Anti-ageing Skincare

34

FOUNTAIN

of youth

Formulations for the majority of products in the market now inevitably include some degree of antiageing ingredients, be they to fight against the ageing effects of stress, dehydration, pollution, sun or other environmental factors on the skin.

Joanna Sterkowicz looks at this ever increasing market.

T

he anti-ageing face cream segment of the global market is expected to reach US$36.11 billion by 2021, according to a Research and Markets report entitled: Skin Care Products Market – Global Industry Analysis and Forecast 2015 – 2021.

It further states that the sun protection cream segment is expected to be the fastest growing segment, growing at a CAGR of 5.1% between 2015 and 2021. (See pages 40 and 41 of this issue of Professional Beauty for the latest sun protection products.)

In another research study entitled Cosmetic Skin Care Market Global Industry Analysis and Forecast 2016 - 2024, ReportLinker notes that growth in the cosmetic skincare market is expected to be fueled by the continuous innovation and development of more effective anti-ageing products in the upcoming future.

The report reads: “Increasing problems of early signs of ageing

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Collagen production is key when it comes to keeping your skin looking young, plump and wrinkle-free. and changing lifestyle is fueling the demand for cosmetic skincare products…. Africa and the Middle East are expected to be the fastest growing region during the next eight years.”

From a South African salon perspective, Sonette Donker of Sandton-based Skin iD notes that between 45 and 50% of her clients want to treat the signs of ageing, or wish to prevent ageing.

“Out of this figure, about 10% are men. I have young and old clients coming for anti-ageing treatments.

About 10% of these clients are in their early 20s.

“The most common issues are age spots, wrinkles and lines and

the prevention of these,” says Donker.

Topical solutions Topical anti-ageing skincare products promote restoration of the skin’s natural flexibility and tightness, says Liza Marie Prinsloo, Poise Brands expert. “General sagging of the skin, gravitational folds and expression lines need to be visibly attenuated by the synergy of key actives to promote more youthful contours, restoring a more radiant complexion. There are three structural components of the skin essential to maintain youthful skin: collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.

“Collagen production is key when it comes to keeping your skin looking young, plump and wrinklefree. It is the body’s major structural protein and 33% of the protein in the body is collagen. Seventy-fivepercent of the skin is made up from collagen.

“Elastin is a highly elastic protein that allows the skin to stretch and bounce back to its original shape.

It provides softness and elasticity to the skin, forming a threedimensional network between collagen. As we age elastin fibres lose their resilience to bounce back resulting in sagging around the eyes, jawline and neck.

“Hyaluronic acid is a natural occurring polysaccharide (carbohydrate) in the human body and a powerful humectant that keeps the skin hydrated, plump and young-looking. It is the most potent hydrating ingredient and can retain a thousand times its weight in water. Hyaluronic acid supports collagen and elastin fibres and plays an important role in collagen synthesis,” explains Prinsloo.

Marine intelligence Thalgo regards its Prodige des Océans L’Essencea as ‘the ultimate expression of 50 years of innovative research’, as it provides ‘the unique power of regenerative marine intelligence in just one drop to regain perfect skin’.

This regenerating essence with an exclusive Thalgo patent concentrates the best of the 5 Oceans to infuse the skin with 61, 100% marine biomimetic nutrients, essential to the skin’s ability to regenerate itself and to the perfect expression of its beauty. The product results in a clear, refined complexion and perfectly even skin tone for a fresh, toned and younger looking skin.

Also from Thalgo, the Ultimate Time Solution Cream reveals new cellular regeneration power for ultimate comprehensive antiageing action. The deliciously luxurious and melt-in texture envelops normal to combination skin in infinite softness.

pollution is a growing concern that has been shown to contribute to the breakdown of anti-oxidant defences in the skin, therefore leading to skin ageing.

“It is for this reason that the daily application of a topical anti-oxidant serum starts to become a necessity and why we make use of Vitamin C in various forms to help provide this necessary protection,” she says.

DermaFix Ferulic + C + E is a scientific formulation that provides the skin with a high dose of Vitamin C to prevent UV-induced hyperpigmentation, bringing with it skin brightening benefits.

“The inclusion of Ferulic Acid provides a potent ‘barrier’ against the damaging effects of UV radiation while Vitamin E assists as an anti-inflammatory, reducing erythema and skin redness and improving skin moisturisation.

Ferulic Acid further stabilises this formulation and prevents the oxidation of Vitamin C. DermaFix Ferulic + C + E has been formulated at the correct pH to allow workability into the skin,” explains Hunt.

Additional protection can be achieved on a cellular level with MD Prescriptives DNA Protection, a revolutionary corrective that utilises peptide technology to help prevent DNA damage by keeping the telomere, associated with cellular DNA, intact. For further protection against oxidative damage, MD Prescriptives Vitamin A Propionate may be added into the evening skincare routine.

Anti-ageing Skincare

35

Brainy product Six founder Marisa Dimitriadis describes the Sixth Intelligence cream as ‘the most advanced anti-ageing formulation with the intelligence to find the fault in your skin and fix it’.

Suitable for all skin types, its active ingredients include the trademarked venuceane, a plant living in the sea. “It is heat activated and provides anti-oxidant protection against extreme weather, toxins and UV damage.

We have also included in the formulation biodine V (macadamia seed oil), which prevents transepidermal water loss and forms a protective barrier on the skin,” she explains.

Controlling cream The Black Pearl Age Control Night Cream is a unique complex of Tahitian black pearl, hyaluronic acid and unique minerals that produce a highly effective nourishing cream for evening use.

This lightly textured cream absorbs easily and provides active repairing and nourishing elements that rejuvenate the skin

Pollution According to Ursula Hunt of Dermafix Cosmeceutical Skin Care,

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Anti-ageing Skincare

36 during the night. It will make skin firmer and brighter the next morning: Age Control minimises existing wrinkles by promoting elasticity and keeps the skin looking revitalised and radiant.

Two-in-one Phytomer Citylife is a 2-in-1 cream for face and eyes that protects and repairs the skin from damage caused by urban pollution: dehydration, signs of fatigue, dark spots and dull complexion.

It de-pollutes the skin, fights dehydration, protects against pigmentation caused by pollution and brightens the skin. Phytomer’s flagship ingredient, oligomer, reinforces the skin’s ability to breathe well in a polluted environment and recharges it with minerals and trace elements.

Stem cells Stem Cells Phyto-Elite from Pevonia utilises the best combination of plant stem cells available to fight the signs of ageing on the skin. Argan protects and vitalises dermal stem cells, while comfrey root speeds up skin renewal and increases epidermal thickness.

The range is highly

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smoothing and hydrating. In addition it protects and energises cells, while increasing hyaluronic acid content. It performs at both epidermis and dermis level and has a unique delivery system for maximum absorbency and faster activity, in addition to other anti-oxidant, protective and anti-ageing benefits.

protects and activates the longevity factors in skin cells. In doing so, Ice Crystal Technology rejuvenates and protects the skin at cellular level and strengthens the cells’ defence mechanism by reducing its caloric output, which allows it to survive far beyond normal expectation.

Luxury repairs

Skin deep

SalonCare Anti-Ageing Night Repair is a luxurious, hydrating moisturiser for night treatment.

It contains argirilene and Vitamin C for rejuvenation and repair of the skin. Vitamin C acts as an anti-oxidant which assists in restoring the health of the skin.

Argirilene is made up of peptides that can affect how the cells of the skin work. It assists in diminishing fine lines and wrinkles.

Ana Engelbrecht of Anaclinical believes that the latest innovations for an anti-ageing product with good results and clinical studies is the introduction of active antiageing ingredients deeper into the skin at an effective dermal cellular level.

“We combine this by introducing anti-ageing active ingredients after peelings, with mesotherapy, using a nonneedle mesotherapy device or micro-needling, and we do this with md:complex Antiage Intensive, md:complex Firming Regen or md:complex NCT-Hyal Revitalising.

“These md:complexes used for anti-ageing are very effective because they come in a sterile ampoule and in liquid form which is more penetrable than a gel or serum,” she comments.

Ice crystals TheraVine has launched the much anticipated Plant Stem Cell Ice Crystal Technology Trio, inspired by the discovery of the supernatural survival powers of one individual algae and an extraordinary flower in the harshest conditions on earth.

The TheraVine laboratories have mastered the art of extracting the breakthrough technology hidden in ice crystal technology, combined with stem cells and turned it into resistant skin care.

This unique phyto substance of snow algae powder with specialised properties

Anti-ageing Skincare

38 Lips first To address the signs of ageing unique to the perioral region, experts at Dermalogica have created the Nightly Lip Treatment to firm, hydrate, and restore skin. Key ingredients include: Indian gentian extract to help reduce skin fragility and reduce the appearance of wrinkles around the lips.

Volumising technology helps to volumise lips and reduce the appearance of fine lines.

Sesame seed extract aids in smoothing and decreasing the appearance of nasolabial fold lines, wrinkles, and roughness.

Brown macro-alga The main active ingredient in Ericson Laboratoire’s GENXSKIN range is Matrigenics14 G, resulting from the latest research in biotechnology. It is an active ingredient extracted from a brown macro-alga: Undaria pinnatifida, which is rich in ester of wakame or sulfated galactofucan. Matrigenics 14G fights against the reversed ‘Triangle of Beauty’ and the onset

of negative facial expression lines.

GENXSKIN Face restructuring serum is a resculpting treatment that combines two actions for increased efficiency: corrective restructuring action and immediate tightening action. The skin is lifted, facial contours are reshaped and the skin looks younger.

The Nourishing Restructuring Cream combines shea butter and kokum butter, renowned for their nutritional and anti-ageing actions. Its formula is enriched with light reflectors to optically smooth wrinkles and lines.

Cellular Marine is based on a revolutionary technology derived from sea fennel stem cells, which supports the body’s own stem cells, enhances the stimulation of new skin cells, improves the skin’s metabolism and leaves skin radiant and rejuvenated.

Five weights

Equalising treatment From QMS Medicosmetics, Ion Skin Equaliser is formulaed with active ingredient molecules that are transported into the deeper layers of the skin with the help of a micro-current technology.

Specially designed for evening use, Ion Skin Equalizer comes with a separate Night Serum and Cream which act in conjunction to stimulate the skin’s own collagen.

Also from QMS Medicosmetics,

Juliette Armand’s Chronos Hydra Antitox Serum is perfect for deep moisturising and anti-ageing benefits. It contains all five weights of hyaluronic acid, which reinforces the water reserves of the skin and has a strong anti-ageing benefit.

The serum works best with the Chronos Wrinkle Correct Cream to keep the skin plump, soft and supple.

Chronosmart peptide Mesoestic Laboratories includes an ‘intelligent’ chronosmart peptide, in its Collagen 360° Essence, which detects the skin’s needs at all times by synchronising skin cell biorhythms, and offering 24 hour support.

By day, it stimulates the awakening of the skin, promoting its capacity of self-protection, while at night, it increases its ability to repair and renew itself. PB

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* O

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Highest rated >?*

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Product Focus â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sun Protection

40

Sunny side UP

As Spring approaches and the harsh South African sun gears up for its seasonal onslaught, salons and spas should be emphasising to clients the importance of using sunscreens and/or sunblocks and ensuring that these essential items are in plentiful supply on their retail shelves.

Sand proof Positioned as the first of its kind technology for South Africa, the Six Broad Spectrum Sun Protection Spf 50+ is formulated with innovative anti sand technology, allowing this SPF to apply completely matte, with no stickiness or oily white residue. It contains beeswax as anti-inflammatory and powerful anti-ageing tocopherol.

011 312 7840

Concentrated shield Doctor Eckstein Active Concentrate Sun Shield SPF 50 provides intensive UVA and UVB sun protection and can be combined with any Doctor Eckstein skincare cream.

Containing rutin and Vitamin E, it is especially recommended for skin that is ultra-sensitive to sun exposure and breakouts due to sun exposure.

011 807 8224 online @ probeauty.co.za

Prime protection The Sea of Spa Bio-Sun Sunscreen Spay SPF 30 invisible water resistant spray protects the skin from the elements without the white spots that come with most classic sunscreens. Also from Sea of Spa, the Bio-Sun Facial Cream SPF 50 not only protects the skin but adds a nourishing supplement of unique minerals for optimal skin health.

082 560 0262

Product Focus – Sun Protection

41 Fine formula For skin types that are more prone to sensitivity and breakouts, DermaFix DermaShield SPF 40 High Protection Sunscreen contains fewer sunscreen ingredients than other sunscreen products, and has been formulated with zinc oxide in a non-greasy, oil-free base.

0861 28 23 23

Double act

Marine filter

Sknlogic Protect SPF 30 is a broad spectrum sun protection cream that provides a certified high broad spectrum UVA/ UVB protection and anti-ageing benefits. It includes both chemical sunscreens to absorb harmful UV rays, as well as physical sun blocks to reflect and scatter rays. An anti-oxidant offers protection from the harmful effects of free radicals.

021 552 6999

Very high UVA/UVB protection is offered by MCeutic Sunscreen SPF 50+, a non-comedogenic sunscreen enriched with a patented natural marine filter to provide the skin with invisible and optimal protection. MCeutic is a brand of Thalgo.

011 880 3851/0

Refined defence The Refineé Skincare Daily Defence Cream SPF30 makes skin supremely smooth as it nourishes and repairs with a rich dose of antioxidant Vitamin E and calming aloe vera. Invisible on the skin, natural non-chemical minerals provide powerful full spectrum UVA / UVB and UVC protection to help prevent premature skin ageing and sun damage.

082 325 4122

Unique levels Based on patented Fernblock technology, Heliocare offers four unique levels of protection over and above UVA/UVB protection – anti-oxidant (neutralises free radicals); cellular DNA (prevents mutated versions of DNA structure); immunological (protects and preserves Langerhans cells); and photoageing (protects fibroblasts and collagen from UV damage).

011 545 9300 online @ probeauty.co.za

Body Contouring

42

THE

body divine Venus Freeze Plus Venus Concept has introduced the new Venus Freeze Plus, an upgrade from the very popular Venus Freeze system, featuring its trademark multipolar radio frequency and magnetic pulse technologies.

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A recent survey conducted in the UK revealed that 86% of women over the age of 25 have cellulite and that of these, 32% (some 725,000 women) want non-invasive treatments to improve their cellulite, clearly indicating that there is a strong and growing market for effective non-invasive body contouring.

Says Thyrza Price of Venus Concept: “The Venus Freeze Plus now features Automatic Temperature Control, an added safety feature in combination with real time thermal feedback. The diamond polar applicator is ideal for small areas such as the face, neck and décolleté, while the Octipolar applicator covers large body areas.”

She explains that radio frequency produces heat energy, which causes controlled collagen denaturation (contraction). “The magnetic pulse stimulates the proliferation of fibroblast cells, producing additional collagen.

Thus, the heat and mechanical action of the treatment aids lipolysis and in combination with the (MP)2 treatment, elevates the clinical results high above the standard expectation for cellulite reduction and skin tightening.

“Venus Concept body shaping systems are the ideal accompaniment to any weight loss programme, whether diet-based or in combination with devices designed for fat reduction. Any weight loss results in skin laxity and excess skin. If the treatment

protocol includes Venus treatments, the skin laxity can be addressed during the fat reduction process, with centimetre loss not only due to fat reduction, but also due to the simultaneous tightening of skin and contouring of ‘lumpy’ areas. Venus treatments are also perfect for stubborn fat pockets, such as soft belly-button fat, love handles and double chins.”

Price believes that Venus Freeze Plus is the perfect launch pad for aesthetic and high-end beauty clinics looking at introducing technology for cellulite and body contouring.

“Venus Concept wanted to match the look of this model with the modern lines of our flagship Venus Legacy, globally recognised as the number one anti-cellulite device. The Venus Legacy features Vari-PulseTM technology for additional lymph stimulation.

“Traditional purchase methods exclude many businesses who are eager to grow their revenue stream. With our subscription based model that is interest free, and requires no financing or credit checks, technology could be at your fingertips,” comments Price.

SlimME The Lumenis SlimME Body Contouring and Body Shaping system is based on tissue heating achieved by the synergy of Uniform Ultrasound and Radio-Frequency, followed by lymphatic drainage massage, all in one applicator.

Says Naomi Olivier of Lumenis distributor, Hitech Lasers: “The SlimMe device is intended for cosmetic and aesthetic contouring and body shaping. Its development is based on extensive research, which led to a safe and extremely efficient procedure, encompassing advantages such as selective thermal fat cell destruction, ultra fast procedure and long term results.

“The system can be used for contouring visible fat bulges, post pregnancy fat, a ‘mommy makeover’ and contouring of the waist line.”

Olivier stresses that the Lumenis SlimMe™ offers a safe and extremely efficient procedure.

“However, energy based treatments are not suitable for everyone and carry some risks so be sure to consult with your procedure provider.”

Body Contouring

43

The device’s Uniform Ultrasound is emitted parallel to the body, leading to an increase in temperature in the fat tissue to create a thermal effect. This thermal effect leads to an improvement in body shape in the localised area of the procedure.

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Body Contouring

44 The SlimME ™ comes with two applicators: Hexagonal 2cm2 exposure area for treatment of small areas and a rectangular applicator with effective exposure area of 5.8cm2.

“Treatment results vary between individuals and cannot be predicted. The procedure aim is to improve the aesthetic appearance of the body contour in the desired area. The effect of the treatment is gradually achieved and is expected to be noticed within one month and maximise within three months,” says Olivier.

Viora

Distributed by Medilase, Viora’s body contouring and skin tightening treatments with V-FORM and V-ST hand pieces are completely non-invasive with no anaesthesia necessary. There is no downtime at all following the CORE technology RF body treatments.

Says Medilase’s Wicus Olivier Jnr: “With Viora’s ground breaking CORE technology driving V-ST and V-FORM, clients will get the safest, most effective and efficient treatments on the market. The different technologies are available on the V-Series platforms.

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“V-FORM is Viora’s multi-polar RF handpieces and utilises CORE technology with vacuum. It is ideal for people who lost weight in a short space of time, whether from childbirth, surgery, diet or exercise, and have ended up with sagging or loose skin. Viora’s CORE technology treats the extra folds and sagging skin by tightening and firming the skin, resulting in smoother textured, tauter skin. The RF energy targets enlarged fat pockets to reduce fat cell volume and increase the metabolism, while the vacuum mechanism increases local blood circulation and lymphatic drainage.

“It’s important to note that V-FORM body contouring and cellulite reduction results are clinically proven. The systems have built-in mechanisms to ensure safety, speed, comfort and treatments with no pain or downtime.”

Viora’s V-ST for Skin Tightening has the ability to perform facial and body tightening with one hand piece. The V-ST bi-polar hand piece is unique to Viora due to CORE technology’s and features three frequency channels of different depth penetration, and a fourth channel incorporating all three frequencies. It also incorporates contact cooling.

Adeline V Syneron-Candela has developed a new line of products called Adeline, based on SyneronCandela’s patented elos technology and bi-polar fractional radiofrequency technology.

Says Radiant Healthcare’s clinical trainer, Danelle Wheatley: “With the Adeline system, you can expand your business by offering an all-in-one, body contouring, smoothing and cellulite reduction treatment.

“The Adeline combines four different technologies; infrared energy, bi-polar radiofrequency energy, and mechanical tissue manipulation, using pulsed vacuum and massage rollers. This combination allows for quick,

comfortable treatments with fast results and no downtime. Elos technology is physician endorsed and scientifically proven.”

She notes that the vacuum and massage technology are for deeper dermal penetration and better results.

The Vsmooth and Vcontour applicators are for larger body areas (i.e. thighs, buttocks and abdomen) and for smaller body areas (i.e. flanks, calves and arms) respectively.

Velashape III Also from Syneron, the Velashape III is positioned as a unique, easy to use, no downtime, deep therapeutic body contouring treatment. Also powered by elos technology, VelaShape III combines IR (infrared), bi-polar RF and vacuum to precisely heat the tissue up to 3mm and 15mm depth respectively. The combination of IR and vacuum coupled RF technologies causes deep heating of the fat cells (adipocytes), their surrounding connective fibrous septae and the underlying dermal collagen fibers. Efficient heating of the adipocytes is achieved by higher output of the RF. Wheatley continues: “It’s the

Body Contouring

45

1974 1974 S ince

perfect, non-surgical answer for treating those ‘problem areas’ that cause women to feel so displeased about their body image. The VelaShape III produces consistent results that can be reproduced time after time. It makes use of a new sophisticated closed loop RF feedback mechanism and built in temperature sensor for a precise treatment with increased patient comfort and safety.

“Clinical results have shown over 2cm reduction. The device features faster treatment times and new treatment protocols and increased RF power up to 150W. It has a new, easy to use state of the art user interface.”

The Hitech Group where proven EXCELLENCE, SAFETY, VERSATILITY, REAL RESULTS and PROFITABILITY of their Lasers, IPL and RF systems unite An EXTENSIVE range of more than 100 medical and aesthetic treatments with single and multi-platform systems.

LightSheer® INFINITY™ PAIN-FREE Hair Removal multi-wavelength Diode Laser

M22™ Multi-technology Platform with IPL, Nd:YAG, ResurFX, Q-Switched

AcuPulse™ CO2 Laser Fractional Skin Resurfacing, Vaginal Rejuvenation

LightSheer® DESIRE™ PAIN-FREE Hair Removal Diode Laser

X-Wave BTL X-Wave technology has been FDA approved and scientifically proven to reduce cellulite and improve skin quality. The medical acoustic waves significantly

V-Series

Multi-technology Platforms with choice of: Laser, IPL, Fractional RF, V-FORM and V-ST for a comprehensive treatment menu

Trust the Leader 30

Contact us to learn more about our product portfolio: +27 12 349 1250 hitech@hitechlasers.co.za

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www.hitechlasers.co.za www.medilase.co.za

hitechgroupsa medilase sa

Body Contouring

46 increase blood circulation and collagen production, improving skin texture and elasticity, offering dermal firming and reducing the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dimpled appearance.

Acoustic Wave Therapy, which has been successfully used in the medical world for over 30 years, has now been modified to fit the needs of aesthetic medicine.

BTL X-Wave successfully treats cellulite directly (not only its visible symptoms) as well as stretch marks and scars. It can also be used to improve uneven liposuction results and loosen tight muscles in the shoulders, neck and back.

This non-invasive treatment has no side effects or risks and requires minimal treatment time. Targeted treatment areas include: arms, thighs, abdomen and buttocks. For best results, six to eight treatments are recommended.

The acoustic waves used in this therapy are strong and non-focused, creating vibrations in the body, and targeting the treatment area, while still being non-invasive and non-damaging to the skin.

Patients all report that the X-Wave system provides maximum comfort, only feeling a slight pulsation during treatment, and provides maximum results after multiple treatments.

X-Wave technology does not require any post-treatment medication, while it is suggested that patients stay well hydrated during treatment, to help the body successfully flush out toxins, and follow a healthy diet and lifestyle during the treatment for maximum results. PB

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Precautionary measures Dr Cobus van Niekerk provides valuable insight on preventative strategies in the clinic and how to deal with treatments gone wrong.

T

he saying, ‘Prevention is better than cure’ comes to mind when thinking about this topic, along with a second saying: ‘If you did not have side-effects or complications after a treatment, you haven’t done enough treatments yet.’

Always under promise and over deliver, rather than the other way around.

Clinicians, somatologists, skin and healthcare therapists, beauticians (therapists) etc. should follow a few simple protocols, as in contrast to doctors, there is no council or body that holds therapists accountable for when things go wrong.

This opens therapists up to criminal charges if things do go wrong and a patient is unhappy, leading to lengthy lawsuits. So make sure you are insured in whichever capacity you practice.

Standard Operational Procedures (SOPs) should be in place for each and every treatment being performed by both therapists and doctors alike. (Table 1) Patients should fill out a treatment plan/file with their full medical history. It is very important to let the patient read and sign your Terms and Conditions, which should be obligatory in any kind of practice/clinic.

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Medical Aesthetics

47

Medical Aesthetics

48 ‘Scope of Practice’

Consent

Injecting in the clinic

It is imperative that therapists, as well as doctors, stay within their ‘Scope of Practice’, in other words, only perform treatments that they are fully trained in with a reputable trainer in the field, which is evidence based. AAMSSA (Aesthetic and Anti-Aging Medicine Society of South Africa), has written formal complaints to over 50 therapists who practice outside their scope of practice (e.g. injection of fat loss injections, botox, fillers etc.).

Only doctors are allowed to give injections, or nurses on a script from a doctor, or patients (diabetics with a prescription from their doctor), whether needles are involved or not.

Fat loss injections are deep injections and cannot be microneedled into the skin as it may cause necrosis, of which we have several examples. Rogue suppliers will also be reported directly to the MCC (Medical Controls Council) and the HPCSA (Health Professionals Council of South Africa), as even though you may not belong to this body they still have the mandate to protect the public.

Written informed consent is also obligatory. Verbal consent is not acceptable and may be ignored by courts as patients can then allege that they have been physically and emotionally harmed. Consent should contain treatment options, alternatives, pricing, possible side-effects and the patient should be allowed to deny consent if not comfortable. The therapist and patient should fill out consent forms with all details, which can rather be more comprehensive.

Always under promise and over deliver, rather than the other way around. This will invariably lead to unhappy patients.

Find a doctor to work with and if complications or side-effects occur, refer patients ASAP, so that disasters can be prevented. If the side-effect is something that can be treated by you, apologise to the patient as it has been proven that an apology goes a long way in preventing litigation.

Follow up with the patient on a daily basis, and monitor them by seeing them daily with reassurance and advice (if necessary), as well as an urgent referral to a doctor when necessary.

If you invite a doctor to come and inject in your clinic please note the following: HPCSA Ethical Rules: 1. The doctor cannot share commission with you as this is prohibited. (Solution: charge an hourly rental for the time the doctor spends there.)

2. The doctor should have a separate entrance.

3. The Reception may not be shared with your normal clientele and that of the doctor’s.

4. The doctor has to provide their own way of obtaining payment from the patients (credit card machines, EFT or cash).

5. To protect patient confidentiality, patients should also not be visible to passing public.

6. The treatment room should be set up as a doctor’s practice, with the ability to take observations, as well as give emergency care and resuscitation if needs be.

(Though complications are rare they do occur and you do not want to be held accountable).

7. AAMSSA discourages the

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Medical Aesthetics

49

Table 1 traveling doctor, however if the clinic and the doctor follow these guidelines everything should be fine.

8. The doctor should provide his/ her Medical Degree Certificate.

9. The doctor should provide his/ her HPCSA membership certificate or number and this should be checked on the website www.hpcsa.co.za 10. The doctor should provide evidence of full Indemnity Insurance so that the doctor is held accountable and not you.

Unfortunately, if you do not abide

by these brief guidelines provided, you may end up in hot water. If in doubt please feel free to contact info@ aestheticdoctors.co.za or visit www.aestheticdoctor.co.za to find a reputable doctor who may be willing to support you.

The patient that you did not get to sign the written informed consent form, as well as the Terms and Conditions, or with whom you did not follow the appropriate SOP, will invariably be the patient who develops a problem.

This is not meant to scare you off, but to let everyone in the aesthetic/beauty arena follow the same guidelines and ensure standardisation of treatment protocols.

Above is an example of a document that should be obligatory in your clinic or even doctor’s practice.

However, please DO NOT COPY this example exactly into your clinic, as we all offer different services.

Rather draw up your own. PB

Dr Cobus van Niekerk has a special interest in aesthetic medicine and wellness but insists that medicine remains at the core of his ‘wellness aethetics’ practice. Van Niekerk is currently the president of AAMSSA (Aesthetic and Anti-Aging Medicine Society of South Africa). cobus@drcobus.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

TAKING IPL TECHNOLOGY TO THE NEXT LEVEL BY INTRODUCING SELECTIVE WAVEBAND TECHNOLOGY (SWT®) WITH SUB-MILISECOND PULSE

BY ELLIPSE!

+27 12 664 0231 | info@ellipse.co.za | www.ellipse.co.za

TATTOO&over out Ezanne Reinach undergoes a tatoo removal treatment with the Fotona QX MAX laser at the LCM Skin & Laser Clinic in Nieuw Muckleneuk, Pretoria.

I

have a small tattoo at the base of my back that I had done 15 years ago. At the time the tattoo was very meaningful to me, but as the years passed its significance has faded. Unfortunately the tattoo itself has not. Plus, I now have two small children who are always asking me about it. So I decided to have it removed at the LCM Skin & Laser Clinic, which is comprised of nine dermatologists.

When I arrived at LCM, Dr Nivana Ramlachan informed me that the treatment would be performed using the Fotona QX MAX laser.

She continued: “This is our laser of choice for tattoo and pigmentation treatments, being a single-pulseenergy generating Q-switched laser. We chose the Fotona QX MAX based on its efficacy and good service from the supplier, Fotona SA. “In terms of tattoos, for black pigment we use the 1064 nm Nd:YAG wavelength, and for red pigment, the KTP 532 nm wavelength. During the treatment there is a photo acoustic reaction – the laser beam hits the pigment and fragments the tattoo ink particles and the skin cells are then removed by the mechanism of the body.”

Dr Ramlachan explained that she would be able to remove 50% of the tattoo with the first two treatments, some eight weeks apart. “However, it’s

Before treatment the remaining pigment that is difficult to remove, so you may need between eight to 10 treatments in total.

“The colour of the tattoo is what we refer to as the target. Yours is black so I will use the 1064 wavelength and the R28 hand piece, which has a spot size of 4mm.”

I asked if the treatment would be painful. She responded: “We always warn our tattoo removal clients that this is an uncomfortable procedure. The pain patients feel is like the pain they experience during tattooing, so it is not unbearable. This is because the pulse of the laser beam is so fast.”

I was relieved to find that her estimation of the pain level was accurate – the laser beam is no more painful than being tattooed.

Because my tattoo is small, the treatment was over in minutes. I could instantly see that the tattoo had faded considerably. A topical antibiotic cream and an occlusive dressing were then applied.

Dr Ramlachan also used the Fotona to remove some sun spots (solar lentigo) on my cheeks and hands with the KTP 532 wavelength. This once-off treatment was less painful than the tattoo treatment. There is a week’s downtime and I was advised to keep the area moisturised, wear sunscreen and avoid the sun.

All in all I was very impressed with both the treatments. PB

After first treatment CONTACT Ellipse SA / Fotona SA: 012 664 0231

online @ probeauty.co.za

Treatment Review

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52 SAAHSP

South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

CIDESCO’s mission to improve global standards CIDESCO, the World Standard for Beauty & Spa Therapy, has launched an offer of one year’s free membership to salons and spas worldwide to help improve industry standards on a global scale.

B

y granting the opportunity to businesses that originally may not have been able to afford CIDESCO membership, the association is aiming to have the industry operating at the highest level worldwide, through the perks offered by membership.

Anna-Cari Gund, CIDESCO international president, comments: “There are still many countries even in the developed world where standards are falling short. By bringing together more salons and spas which are operating at the highest level, we hope to attract others to achieve the same.”

Provided the business meets the association’s entry and inspection requirements, the offer will be available to those who apply for membership during 2017, although they will still be expected to pay the one-off application and inspection fee.

Benefits of CIDESCO membership Membership gives salons and spas global accreditation; use of the CIDESCO logo on marketing material; and access to its global network of beauty and spa professionals, including access to a community of CIDESCO graduates and students studying for diplomas.

Benefits also include access to educational documentation and professional papers through the association’s database; invitation to the annual CIDESCO World Congress; and admission to workshops at the National and International Congresses.

As a global oragnisation, CIDESCO offers membership across five continents.

Joining SAAHSP as a Professional Member or Corporate Member is as easy as 1-2-3.

Contact us today to get your Membership Application Forms or download them from the website: www.saahsp.com

online @ probeauty.co.za

Cidesco Section South Africa

Want to find out more? info@refectocil.co.za | www.refectocil.co.za

Symmetry World Symmetry World focuses on individual businesses by assessing their needs according to core values, character and market level. Once analyzed the information is used to build and improve the companies’ performance. Remaining at the forefront of the industry.

Symmetry World focus on: • Spa & Salon Development • Concept creation • Business re-orchestration • Core therapy development • Brand positioning • Creation of specialized private label products

Mimmie Lancaster mimmielancaster@gmail.com 082 653 5022

Issue 15

Aug 2017

Competitive edge How to stay ahead of the pack

Glitterati

Shutterstock

Colours that shimmer and shine

All for one and one for all Motivating your staff

Welcome

56

T

he nails section of the annual Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show (3 to 4 September, Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand) is always the busiest component of the show, to the extent that it’s actually challenging to make your way through the aisles as they are thronged with hundreds of nail techs all clamouring to see the latest colours and technologies from their favourite brands.

This dynamic clearly indicates that nails remains the one of the biggest, if not the biggest, revenue spinners in the beauty industry. Visitors to this year’s show will not be disappointed plus there is also a seminar programme devoted to nail techniques and technology, not to mention the Annual Professional Beauty Nail Competition, which always sees a flurry of entrants and stunning work.

At the time of going to print with this issue of the magazine, we’d received the first entries for the Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition. It was very exciting to see the fabulous artistry and creativity inherent in these. The September issue of Nail File will feature the top entries in the our competition categories, namely Tip Box Nail Art and Photographic Nail Art.

Issue 15

Aug 2017

Competitiv e

edge How to sta y ahead of the pac k Glitterati

Colours that shimm er and shine

All for one and one fo r all Motivating your

staff

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

What’s inside Nail File

62 57 Industry News

Stay in the know

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Salon Focus

In pursuit of polished perfection

The metamorphosis of Perfectly Polished

Gel polish creations

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How to keep existing staff motivated

Style Savvy

Product Hub

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67

Ahead of the game

Top Tech Talk

Ask the Experts

Staying afloat in a competitive environment online @ probeauty.co.za

All that glitters

Amanda Ströh

All the latest releases

57 News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips

Nail brands replicate skincare claims

T

he importance of skincare claims in colour cosmetics is now emerging in the nail sector, according to market intelligence company Mintel, which reports that nail brands are exploring new treatment concepts, such as overnight products reminiscent of night creams.

In her recent ‘Beauty Spot: The Future of Nail Care ‘ blog, Mintel analyst Charlotte Libby writes: “In the UK, consumers are now more likely to be influenced by product claims when buying nail polish than other colour cosmetics. Meanwhile, in the US, nail colour users are concerned

about chemicals, leading to brands innovating with diet inspired ‘superfood’ ingredients such as kale, turmeric, carrots, milk and almonds, which are thought to be beneficial for skin and nail health and thus offer new opportunities for nail brands.”

Bio Sculpture hosts international conferences in Cyprus South African professional nail brand, Bio Sculpture Gel, recently hosted its International Educators Conference, as well as its Importers Conference, in Larnaca, Cyprus.

Forty-nine international educators from 16 countries and 42 global importers and distributors attended the events respectively.

Bio Sculpture founder and product developer, Elmien Scholtz, introduced new products to the international educators, with practical training offered for these launches.

Demonstrations were presented

by Bio Sculpture head of education, Tania Biddle, who

together with Scholtz presented in-depth information to the delegates in various sessions.

“Besides product knowledge and new application techniques, much focus was directed to training procedures and standards, a core ethic of the brand,” says Scholtz.

At the Importers Conference, Bio Sculpture Canada and Bio Sculpture USA were honoured with client awards to mark 20 years with Bio Sculpture.

Elmien Scholtz and Allyson Sorour

The brand’s latest products include a compact Nail Art Kit, comprising eight high pigment primary colour gels and stencils, and the Supreme French Kit, a combination of Pink Paste and White Screed.

Young Nails execs to visit SA President and chief innovator of Los Angeles-based Young Nails inc., Greg Salo, will visit South Africa together with his brother and company CEO, Habib Salo, in September to conduct workshops for qualified nail techs.

Accompanying them will be Tracey Reyerson, international director of education.

“Greg and Habib are the sons of Young Nails inc. founder, Young Salo,” says Xandia Greeff of Young Nails SA. “We are very excited to have them visit and present on new techniques and products, as well as to offer

business advice to our local nail techs.”

Greeff notes that Frederik Vuyk has been promoted to director of education at Young Nails SA. “Frederic was Frederik Vuyk

Greg Salo and Habib Salo

previously Young Nails mentor and offered Acrylic and Gel courses at head office in Kempton Park.”

online @ probeauty.co.za

News

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Twincare hosts mega nail event

A

s part of its recent Nail World event held in Johannesburg, Twincare International ran a nail competition, which saw Nicholas Ferreira win the Avant Guard category in the Artistic Nail Artist of the Year section.

Theresa Michelle Matyukira of @nails_by_tessy won the IBD Just Gel Nail Art of the Year category.

Dozens of salon owners and nail techs attended sessions at Nail World presented by global educators, Alisha Rimando and Melissa Peters of Artistic Nail Design, and Kerry Sheldon-Jones of IBD. Twincare CEO, Stav Dimitriadis, presented a business seminar and revealed how salon owners can control their turnover, margins and expenses.

Nicholas Ferreira

Mia Secret comes to SA Mia Secret Professional Nail Systems South Africa has opened for business.

Tessa Tullues and Morné Louw deSouza

Says Morné Louw deSouza, who co-owns Mia Secret SA with Tessa Tullues: “We are the first ever English-speaking distributors of Mia Secret and will also distribute to Lesotho, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Namibia and Mozambique. Our training will be in English, Afrikaans, Zulu and Sotho.”

Louw notes that Mia Secret started out in 2006. “The founders

have such a passion for their brand.

For example, their cuticle oil is formulated with flowers that are handpicked in Brazil. Mia Secret strong points are their training techniques and variety of colours. They offer gel, acrylic, lacquer, gel polish and gel paint.”

Mia Secret’s international educator from Mexico, Arturo Osorio, will be on the Mia Secret stand at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo (3 to 4 September, Gallagher Convention Centre).

Franks wins Calgel competition Debora Franks of a Claremont home based hair and nail salon has won the online Calgel Nail Art Competition, run over three months on Facebook and Instagram.

Runners-up were Megann Ward from KwaZulu-Natal and Monique Barnard from the Western Cape.

Says Franks: “The Calgel Competition was really tough because you could see every entry that came in; all the entrants are very talented and their style unique. When Calgel announced that my nails had won, I was speechless with emotion. This competition has inspired me to accomplish even more.”

online @ probeauty.co.za

For the ‘Summer 2017’ themed competition, Franks was inspired to capture movement, colour and art by creating 3D butterflies. She comments: “I hand painted the butterflies and twirls. It was a real challenge but I enjoyed every moment.”

Calgel educator Lilian Lee reveals that Franks won because of the elegant shape and perfect finish she created.

“Debora used complicated techniques – 3D gel art, freehand drawing and embossed gel art.

This was a labour-intensive set of nails, with eye-catching visual effect and at least eight vivid and

Debora Franks and Karen Franks

vibrant colours that truly reflected the theme,” states Lee. Franks won a R1,800 Calgel voucher. Her video clip can be seen on: https://www.facebook. com/nail.art.9216778/ videos/1840493739572810/

New nail art option for salons

News

59

The O’2 Nail Printer, which prints any pattern, colour and design on natural and artificial nails with precision, has been introduced to the South African market.

刀䔀䘀䰀䔀䌀吀䤀嘀䔀 䰀䤀一䔀 䔀䘀䘀䔀䌀吀 Says O’2 Nails SA MD, Links Vandayar: “We realised that the local nail industry needed a boost in terms of nail art options that are offered by salons. So we searched for something that embodied digital technology, art and simplicity in one product. The O’2 Nail Printer encompasses all these elements.”

It is controlled by a smartphone app available free on iOS and Android. The smartphone connects to the wifi hotspot built into the printer.

“While the app is pre-loaded with over 800 patterns, it also allows users to upload their own designs or photos, providing unlimited nail art options. The O’2 prints patterns in 35 seconds per nail, allowing nail techs to operate more efficiently, resulting in increased number of clients being serviced daily. It air-sprays the pattern onto the nails,” concludes Vandayar.

CEW honour for Essie Essie Gel Couture has won the ‘Nailed It’ (Nail Product) category of the CEW (Cosmetic Executive Women) Beauty Insider Awards 2017.

The awards honour the year’s most innovative products and are selected by CEW’s US members, some 6,000 industry professionals.

Judges were not only impressed

by Gel Couture’s 2-step system, but by the ‘stunning, luxury polish bottle inspired by covetable, twirling dresses on the runway’.

online @ probeauty.co.za

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Business

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ask

the experts

QUESTION: How do I keep my existing staff motivated?

TANIA BIDDLE Team work is of the upmost importance. Each staff member, regardless of their ranked position needs to feel that they are part of a united team and that their hard work and dedication is noticed and appreciated.

Monthly target goals are a great method of getting the staff motived. Very often staff leave their jobs because they feel that they aren’t appreciated or challenged anymore. Monthly incentives will motivate staff and have an invaluable effect on the business. Besides individual goals, group goals are a great

idea and will encourage teamwork. Change the goal or target regularly to make it interesting and fun.

Regular staff meetings also contribute to creating a unified team. Use this time as team building as well as to discuss different ideas. Listen to your staff’s ideas, they are the front line of the business and their input can be very beneficial.

A positive work environment is imperative to maintaining happy staff. Make sure that staff members know that they can speak to the manager or owner at

Tania Biddle has been Bio Sculpture & Evo Head of education since 2013. She has studied cosmetology and make-up artistry but nails have always been her passion. Biddle opened her salon, Plush, Nails & Beauty (previously known as Bio Sculpture Salon – West Rand) in 2009.

online @ probeauty.co.za

any time, should they be upset, unhappy or need advice. If a problem arises, listen to all parties involved and find an amicable resolve.

Establishing clear roles and responsibilities supports a controlled working environment and promotes an integrated, happy team.

Keep your staff trained and up to date with new and latest technology in the industry.

Investing in your staff will add to the success of your business.

YVETTE NEL Hard work should always be rewarded but employees must understand that first comes the hustle, then the reward. As a business owner, it is important to look at employing self-motivated people rather than unmotivated people. After that the ‘battle’ is half won.

Motivation starts with management so have a clear vision of what the goals of the business are. Once that is established, engage all staff in the planning and decision-making of how the goals will be reached.

Touch bases for regular feedback in brief weekly meetings. Take retail goals for example – ensure training takes

place on the specific products that comprise the goals and work out how to add them to services.

Implement incentive programmes as they improve performance significantly. Have individual incentives on target reached, as well as team incentives on group targets. By working together, the team learns how to trust each other.

Commission structures could be the start of this, so if you are not paying staff commissions on retail, start doing so and retailing will increase.

Always remember to compliment on a job well done.

Every employee wants to know they add value as an individual.

Owners/managers should create a positive, supportive working environment.

Time invested in employees eliminates dissatisfaction in the workplace. Continual training is crucial for employees.

case and they are not performing and contributing towards the success of your business, then they don’t belong there.

Find out exactly what drives and motivates the people around you – are they motivated more by money than the opportunity to learn, or vice versa?

While money is always a big motivating factor, people are even more motivated by incentives, education and by receiving recognition and acknowledgements. People always want to be made to feel important and that what they are doing is valued and appreciated.

The best managers are usually those who communicate well and in a positive manner, who are hands on, who get involved and who involve their staff not only in the day-to-day treatments being offered, but also within other areas of the business. Offering information and guiding staff on all areas of the salon, including operations, stock control, retailing, and techniques which

they may not be performing, helps them to gain a better insight of how the business is run. Allow them to make suggestions and even give them some responsibilities. They will automatically feel more enthusiastic and appreciated.

Continually challenge your staff to go above and beyond by setting long and short-term goals for them and yourself.

Where possible, assist them in achieving these goals and allow staff to share their goals and assist one another. Teamwork creates a bond among staff and induces a happy environment.

Most importantly, acknowledge and reward your staff when they do achieve and make them feel proud. Follow through and don’t make promises you can’t keep or they will not trust you.

Staff who are treated with respect and feel appreciated will become exceptionally loyal.

Yvette Nel is a diverse nail, health and beauty influencer with 14 years of experience in nail/beauty salons, education, marketing, retail and distribution. Last year she founded Trend Mi Life.

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG Motivating anyone let alone your staff can be quite a challenging task, however it is better to motivate people through positivity rather than demotivating them through constant negativity. The way you and your managers conduct themselves can have a very big influence and impact on your staff’s performance and retention levels. It’s all about attitude and leading by example; if you have a positive attitude, it’s bound to rub off on your staff, which in turn will create a positive environment.

You will always get the odd person though who is not easily motivated and sees everything as a stumbling block. If that’s the

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 28 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business

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Business

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Ahead

of THE GAME As a serious nail professional, keeping at the cutting edge of an ever-growing and evolving industry is absolutely imperative if you want to stay afloat in a competitive market, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

F

or your nail business to continue being successful you need to constantly keep ahead with what is happening in the industry, making sure you are offering your clients that little something extra to ensure they return time after time.

With countless salons to choose from, todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clients want to go to a salon or nail professional that not only offers them a top quality service, but to someone who

online @ probeauty.co.za

provides value for money, has a good sound knowledge about what they are doing, is highly skilled and most importantly, keeps up to date with ever changing trends, technology and product innovation.

At times a client would like to just pop into the salon for a file and polish and be able to get in and out in no time, but a lot of the time they want more than that. With the advancements in product innovation, education and

technology, we now have a multitude of professional hand, foot and nail products at our disposal.

This makes it easier to offer your client not only the best, but also the most advanced and beneficial treatments available. However, be careful of offering too much of a choice though, as it can also be confusing, rather be more focused and know exactly what and why you are offering it.

There are various ways in which you can stay at the top of your

Don’t think that what you learnt yesterday is going to be sufficient to get by and that you now know it all. Ongoing education on how to apply various new techniques is imperative to achieving the most beneficial results. So often I hear nail techs blaming the products when things go wrong, or when service breakdown is experienced.

But it all comes down to proper use and correct application, making sure you use various systems together within their brands, following educational instructions and information, and keeping your products and equipment clean and in good working condition. Besides all of this you also need to know how to communicate with your clients effectively, conduct a thorough consultation to establish your client’s needs, and then make home care recommendations.

game, so there’s definitely no excuse for doing things the way you did five or ten years back, or even a year ago. I recommend that you do some extensive research as to exactly what is up-to-the-minute in order to know what you are up against.

Quiet time Everyone complains that the winter months are so quiet however stop whingeing and use this time wisely.

This is the ideal time to do some research, strategise, attend training and do whatever you can to make sure you maintain your edge. New products, treatment innovations and trends are constantly being introduced by way of product launches, educational events, advertising (either in trade or consumer magazines), on social media and also at trade exhibitions.

The more you expose yourself to the industry and put yourself out there, the more proactive you will be in finding out what’s happening in the industry.

Don’t forget that offering your clients the best and most innovative, up to date products and using the latest techniques comes at a price.

So make sure you include these costs and price your treatments accordingly. To maintain your profits remember to save on the less important things but at the same time, don’t skimp on areas that could compromise the treatment and the client’s overall satisfaction just to save a buck here or there.

Product launches Attend as many product launches as you possibly can. This doesn’t mean that you have to end up buying every single new product that’s introduced into the market. If you do and it can benefit you, great.

But if you don’t, then at least you know what’s out there so when a client asks, you are informed and can at least respond with first-hand information. Rather come across knowledgeable and professional instead of being caught with a mouth full of teeth not knowing what to say.

Technology and trends

Education Nail stylists have a huge responsibility in making sure they are well informed and educated in every aspect of their profession.

Highly skilled in applying various different systems and knowing exactly what the latest nail trends are. With so many exceptional professional brands available you need to remember that each of them has their own unique features, application methods and techniques. Therefore product and technical training is going to be so important in making sure you get the best results.

Clients are now hugely aware of the countless and amazing colours and trends that have made nails a fashion accessory, mostly influenced by the latest catwalk trends as well as by celebrities.

How often does a client walk into your salon and show you a pic of nails she found somewhere on the internet and ask you to replicate them? Use the internet, social media, blog sites and chat groups to stay connected and know what the trends are as they are constantly and seasonally changing.

Big choice Make sure you have a good selection of the latest nail polish, gel polish colours and collections available. Choose at least two brands that you know are popular and that you know will appeal to clients. Also choose brands that ensure service longevity.

Constantly challenge yourself and put your skills to the test, it’s the only way to become one of the best.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business

63

Salon Focus

64

THE

metamorphosis

of PERFECTLY POLISHED From a clinical looking room with nothing but a few manicure tables, to an upmarket boutique feel, Perfectly Polished in Johannesburg’s Craighall Park continues to reap the rewards of a successful revamp, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

I

t was the prime location of Perfectly Polished that first attracted the salon’s current co-owner, Caroline Strydom, back in November 2015.

“I was working in the corporate sector at the time and looking to get into the salon business,” says Strydom.

“Perfectly Polished always struck me as being ideally situated, within The Valley Centre on Jan Smuts Road. This is a small but bustling neighbourhood shopping centre that includes a very busy Woolworths Foods. When I heard that the owner wanted to sell, I purchased the salon as part of a five-year plan, and retained the existing staff.

“Then, in May last year I was

Caroline Strydom and Samm Tilston

online @ probeauty.co.za

retrenched so I contacted Samm Tilston, who has been in the beauty industry for 20 years, to ask her advice on how to grow the salon. Samm was very keen to come on board as my business partner. It had always been her dream to have a retail offering so she suggested that we turn part of the salon into a boutique to offer clothing – both ladies and kids items – as well as jewelry and scarves. I loved the idea as it was clear that the salon was badly in need of a revamp and I believe we have successfully created a much more attractive salon, with a dedicated reception area and lots of retail displays at the front of the shop that are visible from outside.”

Tilston notes that business picked up immediately following the revamp in August 2016.

“Walk-in business increased dramatically, with some of the new clients thinking we were a clothes store and unaware that we offer nail and beauty services. Our existing clients also loved the new look.

“The retail offering has proved very successful, we have between

five and 10 people purchasing items each day. A lot of the purchases are for gifts.”

Tilston is responsible for sourcing the retail items, with some of the ladies clothing coming from her own line, Capsule, and other items supplied by Rose Upfold, Shelley Taylor, Pikkie Kids and Lilly ‘n Jack.

Despite the boutique items flying off the shelves, the main turnover of the salon still comes from nail treatments, with the

Salon Focus

65

signature manis and pedis the most popular, as they are offered in a number of options.

Nail brands include Gelish, Morgan Taylor, CND Vinylux, and OPI Infinite Shine and GelColor.

Perfectly Polished has five pedicure stations, five manicure stations, two treatment rooms and five full time nail techs.

Expanded offering Strydom notes that when she took over the salon, there were only one or two standard facials on the treatment menu. “Samm and I decided to expand the offering to include youth and anti-ageing facials, including RégimA peels.

In addition, as per client demand and by appointment only, we now have outside therapists who come in to do stronger peels on particular days, as well as microneedling, microblading and

permanent make-up. One of our own therapists performs mink eyelash extensions. Waxing is also very popular at the salon.”

Tilston adds: “Business has increased to the extent that we are now open on Sundays, again by appointment only. Our therapists receive incentives for working on Sundays.”

The salon’s policy of offering daily specials, such as ‘Mani Monday’, ‘Tootsy Tuesday’, ‘Waxing Wednesday’, etc. has proved beneficial to business.

“I believe our prices are still very affordable, despite a recent increase,” comments Strydom.

“The country’s poor economy is something I’m very aware of so we take that into account in our pricing.”

When asked about the salon’s ethos, Tilston says it’s all about convenience. “Time is such a big issue these days in terms of how to fit everything into daily life.

Carolline and I wanted to create a one-stop-shop place where clients can come for effective treatments and pampering.”

online @ probeauty.co.za

Style Savvy

66

All that glitters!

As the famous saying goes, all that glitters is not gold, and while that may be true, a touch of dazzle adds glitz and glamour to any mani and pedi, is always loved and simply never gets old, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

Y

ou definitely don’t have to be six-years-old, or need an invite to a party or fancy dress ball as an excuse to wear glittery nails. Whether it’s polish or gel polish, glitter dust or metallic powder, or whether you bejewel, decorate, adorn, burnish or frost, there are countless fantastical options available.

Nails can be made to look like precious jewels, gleaming in splendour and grandeur no matter what the occasion. Turn them into perfect fashion finery and a great complement to any outfit, or magnificent pair of shoes, or fabulous bag.

It’s amazing what a bit of glitter and shine can do for your nails and your overall look, and even the impact it can have on your mood. Glitter doesn’t have to be in your face ‘Beyoncé Bling’. Those tips and toes can look just as glam in anything from the softest of rose tones in iridescent or metallic finish, with accent nails glitzed up in an alternating shade of pixie dust, or a chunky textured glitter, making them look classy, chic and classic.

Glitter is great as an add-on to jazz up a pair of sexy jeans and can glamorise that ever so popular classic little black number.

Why wear a boring French mani, or plain nail colours, on your special day? Change up those usual typical nude, white or pastel, wedding shades and embellish your tips with a splash of glitter, the perfect match with that fairy tale wedding dress and bound to make you feel like a picture-perfect princess.

For something a little more brilliant that looks like precious gems, coatings of solid glistening gold, shimmering silver, glimmering emerald green, sparkling sapphire blue and brilliant bronze is sure to give your talons a trendy edge. For a more no fuss, semipermanent look, acrylic glitters and gels are the ultimate for creating the most stunning, eye catching ritzy nail enhancements and swanky nail art, in extravagant 3D or encapsulated designs, which will definitely stand out and wow the crowd.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Sweetest Thing

Gelish - June Bride

Polar Sky

Wedding Belles

Under The Stars

Gelish - Too Tough To Be Sweet

Glamourous

Princess

NSI Luna

NSI Top Secret

Gelish - High Voltage

All That Glitters

City Lights

67 Q&A

Top Tech Talk This issue of Nail File puts the spotlight on awardwinning nail technician and educator, Amanda Ströh FOR HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN WORKING IN THE NAIL SECTOR?

WHAT MADE YOU WANT TO BECOME AN EDUCATOR?

Since 1992. I always say my claim to fame is that I was the first Bio Sculpture therapist trained by Elmien Scholtz, the founder of the brand.

Distribution and education go hand in hand to ensure high quality workmanship in the salon with your product. The therapist needs to have a full understanding of what the product can offer their client base. I had my own nail salon for 11 years before I was appointed as a sub-distributor and educator for Bio Sculpture East Rand. In 2003 my husband, Louis Ströh, and I were given the opportunity to start Bio Sculpture Distribution in the Southern Cape-George area. We now do distribution both in the Southern and Western Cape for Bio Sculpture.

In 2008 I was proud to be appointed as Bio Sculpture’s international head of education. It was during this time that I travelled with Elmien Scholtz, training Bio Sculpture educators in Japan, England and Germany.

HOW DO YOU FIT RUNNING A SALON IN WITH YOUR EDUCATION ACTIVITIES?

DID YOU ASCERTAIN ANY DIFFERENCES IN THE NAIL INDUSTRIES OF THE COUNTRIES YOU VISITED?

By having a great team of girls working for us – we have two travelling educators and two full time therapists on whom I can rely. I do still have a few clients that keep me on my toes, but education has become my big passion

In Japan and Russia, nail art forms a big part of the nail industry.

I would definitely say these two countries are the leaders in nail art.

Japanese nail art is very soft and feminine. I have noticed that this trend is becoming increasingly more popular in the Western Cape.

WHAT PROMPTED YOUR DESIRE TO MAKE NAILS YOUR CAREER? I love being creative. Doing nails is like having a little canvas and each canvas has new and different challenges. I love the interaction between the nail tech and the client.

DO YOU HAVE A BACKGROUND IN BEAUTY BEYOND NAILS? I did a three-year Beauty Therapy National Diploma at the Free State Technicon. I also received an International CIDESCO Certificate.

Doing nails is a big part of the beauty industry and wonderful to add to your treatment menu. I just fell in love with the treatment.

I was the first Bio Sculpture therapist trained by Elmien Scholtz, the founder of the brand.

WHAT OVERSEAS TRAINING HAVE YOU PRESENTED?

WHAT SUCCESS HAVE YOU HAD IN NAIL COMPETITIONS? I won the Professional Beauty Nail Competition in 2006 in Johannesburg. Beyond that I had the privilege of participating in an international nail competition in Dusseldorf, Germany, in which I made the top 10. There is no better school for a nail technician than to take part in nail competitions.

It trains your eye to see the finer details.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Gel Polish Creations

68

The pursuit of POLISHED

PERFECTION Sonette van Rensburg focuses on how to add spice to your mani or pedi services by using gel polish to create nail art.

T

here’s no doubt that brush on coloured gel polishes have become one of the most popular nail trends and best product innovations to hit the nail industry. Professional gel polish formulas cure with either UV or LED light, creating a bond that’s more powerful and which lasts longer than traditional nail polish.

This advancement in gel technology has made it a far more approachable service for clients who are not all that keen on applying enhancements and want the benefit of a longer lasting colour manicure. Gel polishes offer the perfect solution for chip free, super shiny nails, and have definitely become one of the most sought after services.

There is now such a huge choice of gel polish brands and a plethora of on trend colours and textures available, in anything from the softest, most pastel shades, to bold and bright, dark and daring colours, matt and metallic, and even some glitz and glamour in shimmering, sparkling shades and 3D glitter effects.

Creative possibilities Nails are the perfect little canvases to express one’s personality, style and individuality. With such a huge selection and wide variety of gel polishes available, a gel polish

online @ probeauty.co.za

service no longer has to be just a simple, classic, single colour application. Nail professionals have the ideal opportunity to explore their creativity by taking an ordinary gel polish manicure or pedicure and turning it into something more fun, trendy and extraordinary. Your client’s nails can be more than just nails with colour, but rather become the ultimate fashion accessory.

Using colour on your nails is not just about creating way out, crazy, artistic nails, it can also be subtle, beautiful and elegant, adding that extra special touch to your client’s nails and hands.

Beautiful designs and looks can be created with gel polish, from the most simplistic (such as an alternative coloured French) to negative space effects or ombre, to more sophisticated and elaborate effects with swirls,

flowers and intricate latticework.

It is all about using your products, skill, and imagination to design something different and unique.

Inspiration You don’t need to be artistic or creative to come up with the most amazing looks, just search the internet for some incredible ideas and get your gel polish colours together.

If you are a professional and capable nail technician, you can create absolutely any look you choose, no matter what the occasion. The possibilities are endless.

On the next page are some easy to learn but effective techniques and designs to wow your clients with some of the most up and coming gel polish creations and trends which are sure to make a fashion statement.

These nail art designs were created using TruGel. To prep the nails perform a dry manicure. Shape nails with a file and remove cuticle from nail plate with a cuticle pusher. Remove shine from natural nail with a 240 grit buffer. Apply a thin coat of EZFlow Bond-It-On Gel bonder and let dry.

Butterfly Design What you’ll need: • TruGel Yellow There! Gel Polish • Design Expert Dotting Tool • Gel Art Gel Polish – Black and White • TruGel Bond-It-On, Base Coat and Top Coat • TruGel Gel Cleanser 1. Apply a thin coat of TruGel Base Coat covering the free edge of the nail. Cure for 30 seconds LED or 1 minute UV 2. Follow the application steps for applying TruGel Gel Polish using TruGel’s Yellow There! Gel Color.

NOTE: DO NOT begin the Top Coat step yet.

3. Using Gel Art Polish in Black draw a steep, diagonal line across the nail. Using that diagonal line as a starting point, make three vertical lines to the free edge of the nail creating four rectangle sections. Next, trace the edge of the nail from one point of the diagonal line to the

Blue Bubble Design What you’ll need: • TruGel Marshmallow Gel Polish • Design Expert Dotting Tool • Gel Art Polish – Blue, White, and Black • TruGel Bond-It-On, Base Coat and Top Coat • TruGel Cleanser 1. Apply a thin coat of TruGel Base Coat covering the free edge of the nail. Cure for 30 seconds LED or 1 minute UV 2. Follow Application steps for applying TruGel Gel Polish using TruGel’s Gel Art Polish in Primary Blue.NOTE: DO NOT begin the Top Coat step yet.

3. Using TruGel’s Marshmallow Gel Polish paint a stripe across the center of the nail bed. DO NOT cure.

4. While the white stripe is still wet, place small droplets of TruGel’s Top

other. You should now have a general outline of your butterfly wing. Cure for 30 seconds LED or 2 minutes UV. 4. Take Gel Art Polish in Black and follow the outline that you have already created to thicken the lines and create four oblong shapes. Cure for 30 seconds LED or 2 minutes UV. 5. Using the Design Expert Dotting Tool and Gel Art Polish in White create different sized dots on the tip of the nail. Larger dots should be closer to the tip of the nail and smaller dots towards the center.

Cure for 30 seconds LED or 2 minutes UV. 6. Apply a thin coat of TruGel Top Coat over final design making sure to encase the tip edge to ensure long wear. Cure for 30 seconds LED or 2 minutes UV. 7. Cleanse by saturating a nail wipe with alcohol or TruGel Gel Cleanser. Cleanse nail with nail wipe to remove tacky gel residue.

Coat onto the stripe. This will disperse the Marshmallow Gel Polish creating a bubble effect.

Cure for 30 seconds LED or 2 minutes UV. 5. Using the large end of the Design Expert Dotting Tool and Gel Art Polish in White create dots on the top and bottom of the bubbled stripe. Cure for 30 seconds LED or 2 minutes UV. 6. Using the small end of the Design Expert Dotting Tool and Gel Art Polish in Black create smaller dots in the center of the white dots you have already created in an alternating pattern. Cure for 30 seconds LED or 2 minutes UV. 7. Apply a thin coat of TruGel Top Coat over final design making sure to encase the tip edge to ensure long wear. Cure for 30 seconds LED or 2 minutes UV. 8. Cleanse by saturating a nail wipe with alcohol or TruGel Gel Cleanser.

Cleanse nail with nail wipe to remove tacky gel residue.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Gel Polish Creations

69

70 In the Market

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.

From the spa

Selfie mania

Ingredients in OPI’s new Pro Spa Skin Care Hands & Feet Collection include ceramides to lock in moisture; cupuacu butter for nourishing moisture, and white tea extract to protect the skin. Vitamin E neutralises free radicals, while Vitamin C promotes radiance.

Morgan Taylor and Gelish have introduced the Selfie Summer 2017 Collection, filled with neon corals, pinks and purples. Colours include: All About The Pout (light coral crème); Me, Myself-ie, And I (coral neon shimmer); Pretty As A Pink-ture (pink neon); Woke Up This Way (electric fuchsia neon); and Best Face Forward (purple neon).

011 325 1000

011 447 0659

Home rituals Ericson Laboratoire’s Hand Repair Intensive Range comprises three specific solutions for the major problems of the hands: Nutri-Active (nourishing and repairing); Hydro-Active (moisturising and anti-drying); and Clear-Active (correcting brown spots and preventing the formation of new ones).

011 783 9817 online @ probeauty.co.za

In the Market

71 Something to dip into With new oligomer light cured technology, the NSI Simplicité PolyDip Nail Enhancement System is faster than a traditional dip service and keeps clients’ nails strong and healthy. The nail tech can work on all five fingers at the same time because there is no dry time.

011 025 4007

Lighting the way

Izabelle Hammon has announced the launch of 12 nude and French shades in its LED Colour Range.

The range includes five builder/ cover gels and seven buildable shades, including a crisp white.

The Universal Cure UV/LED Light from Young Nails cures any gel on the market. It has a dimming feature that reduces light by 15%.

The lamp includes: an automatic sensor; 30-second timer; 2-minute timer; continuous on; and a removable base plate. It is ETL certified.

031 537 3585

074 477 2791

In the nude

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Classifieds

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