Professional Beauty South Africa March 2022 by Professional Beauty SA

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

NAILFILE

In this issue... March 2022 | probeauty.co.za

MALE GROOMING TRENDS REDUCING WATER USAGE IN SPAS MENTAL WELLNESS

CONTENTS

IN THIS ISSUE Regulars 7

Industry news

Local and international news

Crowning glory Focus on hair

In the market

Latest product launches

Wellness

Spa Focus

Healthy mind, happy person

Thermae all the way Winelands Spa at Kiviets Kroon

Mental wellbeing

Features 24

Male grooming trends

Business

How the market has evolved

Ask the Experts

Men only

All your questions answered

Male grooming products

How to achieve success this year Getting your salon on a positive path

Male grooming 20

Nine musts for treating & retaining male clients How best to deal with men

Make-up for men

Male make-up services

Big Buzz Business Conference Event 28

Exhibiting brands 29

Business Conference Programme 30

Aesthetic Medicine Conference

Sustainability 33

How do we practice ‘sanitas per aqua’ sustainably Water usage in spas

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Aesthetic Medicine 38

The depths of hydration All about hyaluronic acid

Nails 43

NailFile Issue 49

WELCOME AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

NAILFILE

In this issue... March 2022 | probeauty.co.za

As you will see, there is a big focus on male grooming in this issue of Professional Beauty, as befitting our annual survey on this ever expanding sector part of the beauty market. We cover tips on how to treat male clients, how to do make-up on then, and we put the focus on male specific products. In addition, we report back from two major male grooming salon chains as to how business has been in the Covid economy and what treatment and retail trends they have identified in their clients. The very word ‘spa’ means healing through water, which is why spas, by definition, need to offer at least two hydro facilities to guests. Yet, in this world of drastic climate change and a global push towards sustainably practices, how can spas go about trying to reduce water consumption in their operations? In this issue we have included an informative article that addresses this issue. Wellness is a concept that has infiltrated all aspects of life, including salons and spas. In this context, wellness is generally associated with the quest for physical wellbeing. However, there is a growing focus on mental wellness, something that not only affects our clients, but our staff and colleagues as well. To this end, we have included an article about the mental wellness practices you can implement in your beauty business. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

MALE GROOMING TRENDS REDUCING WATER USAGE IN SPAS MENTAL WELLNESS

Publisher Mark Moloney mark@probeauty.co.za Managing Director Yolanda Knott 011 781 5970 yolanda@probeauty.co.za Commercial Director Philip Woods 084 759 2024 phil@probeauty.co.za Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 083 411 8512 joanna@probeauty.co.za Marketing Manager Stacey Platt stacey@tetradeevents.com Sales Executive Marike O’Reilly 083 631 4907 marike@professionalbeauty.org.za Sales Consultant Charlene Dickson 079 116 3262 charlene@professionalbeauty.org.za Operations Executive Obey Dube obey@probeauty.co.za Design Saveer Sugreem

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The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com, www. pixabay.com and www.unsplash.com

INDUSTRY NEWS

Top speakers secured for Big Buzz Business Conference event

Professional Beauty has lined up a slew of experts in their fields to speak on industry topics at the Big Buzz Business Conference & Table Top Exhibition, taking place at Johannesburg’s Bryanston Country Club on 28 March. Running alongside the business conference will be an aesthetic medicine conference. Speakers at the business conference stream include: tax consultant Julia Delany, Candice Thurston of Candi & Co/ The Sorbet Group (TBC); social media expert Ayesha Rajah; cosmetic chemist John

Knowlton; Gina Gall; and spa consultant Marisa Dimitriadis. There will also be a panel discussion about whether the current educational syllabus is working for salons and spas. At the aesthetic medicine conference stream, delegates will be able to watch Dr Johan Botha perform an aesthetic procedure for nose correction. Other presenters include Dr Bart Kurek and Estee Veale. This event was meant to take place at Gallagher Convention Centre but has changed to Bryanston Country Club. Last year, Professional Beauty held two very successful and well attended events at this venue, and it proved a popular location with delegates due to its scenic golf club setting. In addition to the two conference streams, there will be a number of key suppliers from the beauty, nails, spa and aesthetics sectors displaying their latest wares. For just R550 a ticket, delegates will be able to attend a full day of educational talks, as well as interact directly with suppliers and network with like-minded individuals. Lunch and refreshments are included. To see the full conference programmes and to book your spot click here https://www.probeauty.co.za/big-buzzbusiness-expo-and-conference

Environ wins international awards for Lifetime Achievement and Top Medical Skin Care South African born brand Environ has been voted Top Medical Skin Care for the fifth consecutive year at the Aesthetic Everything® 2022 Aesthetic and Cosmetic Medicine Awards, while also winning the Lifetime Achievement Award in Skin Care. Aesthetic Everything® is the largest network of aesthetic professionals in the world with over 1 million subscribers. More than 50,000 votes were cast in the annual competition established in the USA that recognises excellence across a range of categories. Said Vanessa Julia Florez, CEO and Founder of Aesthetic Everything®: “Due to the length of time, and number of votes that come in every year, we determined over the past several years that Environ Skin Care has received the most votes for the skin care category of all companies. This year we wanted to do a special award for those companies and people who received the most votes over the past several years”. In 2021, Aesthetic Everything® recognised Environ as the Top Medical Skin Care of the Decade. “The Environ Team thank Aesthetic Everything® for this

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prestigious Lifetime Achievement acknowledgement and for our fifth Top Medical Skin Care Award,” stated Environ Group chairperson Val Carstens. “It is indeed an honour to be recognised for the Val Carstens and Dr Des Fernandes part we play in keeping skin beautiful. This award is only possible because of the passion and loyalty of the Environ ‘Family’ worldwide.” Environ founder and scientific director, Dr Des Fernandes, added: “Environ has focused on the cosmetic aspects of medical skin science from the very beginning. This incredible worldwide recognition symbolises our vision of creating ‘a beautiful skin for a lifetime’.” To date, Environ has received over a hundred accolades for outstanding products worldwide.

INDUSTRY NEWS Amka Products to acquire Nimue As part of a deal concluded by its parent company, Ascendis Health Limited, Nimue Skin Technology will be sold to Amka Products for an amount of R102 million. Amka is a South African home grown company with over 60 years in the health and beauty industry and boasts a portfolio of 50+ brands. According to a report published by moneyweb.co.za on 1 February 2022, Ascendis Health SA Holdings Proprietary Limited (“AHSA”), a wholly-owned subsidiary of Ascendis Health, has entered into three separate sale agreements in terms of which it will dispose of its direct and indirect interests in the entities known as “Ascendis Pharma”, “Nimue” and “Ascendis Medical”. Nimue, the Skin business unit that forms part of the Ascendis Health Consumer business, develops, markets and distributes professional and premium skin and body care brands. The acquisition deal with Amka Products requires Nimue to sell that part of its business that relates to selling Solal branded skincare products, to Ascendis Consumer Brands Proprietary Limited. As the Nimue disposal is a Category 2 transaction, it doesn’t require shareholder approval. A Business Report article published on iol.com on 3 February quotes Ascendis Health as saying that the sale of the above three subsidiaries will “leave the business debt-free and with approximately R200 million of cash reserves after accounting for costs and

Photo by Alena Darnel from Pexels

deductions, to reinvest into the rebuilding of the Ascendis group’s core operations”. This comprises the Ascendis Consumer Brands business – i.e. various vitamin, mineral and supplement brands such as Vitaforce and Junglevite. The Solal brand mentioned above will now be part of this business, which also has a manufacturing capability. (Additional Source: inceconnect.co.za)

2022 Spa revenues predicted to exceed pre-pandemic figures The spa industry is forecast to be one of the top-three fastest-growing wellness markets this year and is expected to reach a revenue of $122 billion. This is according to the Global Wellness Institute’s (GWI’s) new report on the global wellness economy, which further predicts that the spa industry will grow by 17% a year from 2020 to 2025, more than doubling revenues. Being a ‘high-touch’ market, spa was a major ‘pandemic loser’ during Covid. The GWI report notes that overall, spa revenues in Latin America, Middle East and Africa saw the greatest level of decline in 2020 (-44%; -50%; and -47% respectively), because the spa sector in these regions is more heavily weighted towards hotel/resort spas, which were more negatively impacted by the pandemic restrictions. It’s evident that the global spa industry is heavily concentrated in Europe, Asia and North America, with the top five countries being USA, China, Germany, Japan and France. These countries accounted for 50% of global

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revenues in 2020. GWI defines and measures six categories of spas: Hotel/ Resort Spas: Day/Club/Salon Spas; Destination Spas & Health Resorts; Medical Spas; Thermal/Mineral Springs Spas; and Other Spas. Hotel spas are by far the fastest growing sub-sector. (Source: GWI – ‘2021 Global Wellness Economy: Looking Beyond Covid’)

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INDUSTRY NEWS Sorbet enters peels market In direct response to client demand, Sorbet will now offer peeling treatments at its salons. Says Sorbet CEO Linda Sinclair: “An extensive consumer research study was conducted focusing on skincare. The results of the study indicated that our consumers would like results orientated skincare services, especially focused on peels for anti-ageing, pigmentation and brightening. Based on the results of the survey, we have launched new skincare treatments, including Exuviance superficial peels. “As the advanced treatments must be performed by trained therapists, Sorbet citizens (therapists) undergo extensive product training. We ensure that all our citizens have certified qualifications and undergo a thorough assessment at our support office before they are appointed. We host monthly education classes at our support office for our citizens. Our extensive skin training covers skin structure, guest skin concerns, how to conduct a comprehensive skin analysis and how the various treatments we offer can be used to treat skin

concerns/conditions. All our suppliers, including the Exuviance team, host monthly training sessions at our support office.” Says Nick Ford, commercial director, Adcock Ingram Prescription: “We are very excited to be partnering with Sorbet to grow the Exuviance brand in South Africa. With greater ease of access from the extensive network of Sorbet stores, we look forward to Exuviance becoming a leading skincare brand.”

New aesthetics clinic opens in Sandton TV personality and entrepreneur, Shashi Naidoo, and aesthetician, Donna Leigh Kedar, have joined forces to open Alushi Aesthetics, located at 66 Rivonia Road. The clinic offers non-surgical aesthetic procedures including laser lipolysis, permanent laser hair removal and advanced skincare treatments. It boasts technologies such as the latest generation of the award-winning Soprano ICE Platinum, as well as Accent Prime and Apilus. As to why Naidoo and Kedar decided to open the clinic, the latter says: “We wanted to combine our expertise and felt we are the perfect team. Shashi has marketing experience and is very influential, while I have been in the aesthetic industry for about 10 years. It was always my dream to have a clinic of my own and we want to really grow and empower our staff to hopefully become owners one day too.” Kedar believes her clinic stands out because of the

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personalised service it offers. “I am a very hands-on owner/ manager and am in the clinic daily to ensure that everything runs smoothly. Furthermore, I have also trained all the staff and developed strict protocols to ensure that each treatment is performed to the optimum standards. “We do not want to be a ‘sausage factory’ where you are in and out; we want a special, luxurious and enjoyable experience for every client that walks through the doors.” The clinic is located in ‘a unique centre that gives a lovely feel for our customers’ and is 166 square metres in size, with three treatment rooms as well as a mani/ pedi area. Alushi Aesthetics offers Dermaclinical as its dermacosmeceutical brand, which utilises the Cortex Technology ultrasound skin scanning device. The clinic also offers nail services and lash & brow treatments.

INDUSTRY NEWS

Sonette Donker

Skin iD’s Donker launches online skin guidance portal

News in pictures iS Clinical launched its new Active Peel System, comprising of a two-step treatment pad protocol, at a recent event held at Hotel Sky in Sandton. Pictured are iS Clinical’s Elle Curnow, Sera Harper and Claudia Scholtz.

Brisan appointed Malu Wilz distributor

German cosmetics manufacturer, Malu Wilz, has appointed Brisan Distributors as its distributor for Southern Africa and Africa. The long-lasting decorative cosmetics line of Malu Wilz is designed to emphasise the beauty of every woman and is popular with

international beauty professionals and make-up artists from Europe, Asia, North America and the Middle East. These products are well tolerated by the skin and easy to use. Formulations are natural, with no perfume or lanolin and are free of sulphate, alcohol, talc, parabens, fragrances and mineral oils. Dermatologically tested, the products are vegan friendly and cruelty free. Malu Wilz was the first to develop a waterproof cover cream foundation suitable for every skin type to cover thread veins, pigmentation marks, port-wine stains, tattoos, etc. The camouflage and foundation products were developed in close cooperation with scientists and dermatologist and are suitable for sensitive skin.

Well known to the South African beauty industry as a skincare expert who specialises in peels, Sonette Donker of the Skin iD studio in Johannesburg has launched Skin Fundi, an online skincare guidance, advice and training portal for beginners, enthusiasts and pros alike. Says Donker: “As an internationally qualified professional skincare specialist with more than 25 years of experience, I never want to stop learning and innovating. Now, through my virtual consultations on Skin Fundi, consumers from nine years old and up wanting to learn about skin concerns and suitable solutions, as well as aesthetic professionals seeking information on skin biology, chemical peels and fractional collagen induction therapy, will be able to sort through the noise and be well on their way to healthy, glowing skin. “I will also share first-hand experience gained at my skin studio, where I have been performing these treatments for the last eight years. These training videos will be launched for aesthetic professionals later this year.” Skin Fundi has been two years in development. When Donker realised that professional treatments are not all that affordable everywhere in the world, the concept was born to make factual, unbiased information available at affordable prices – with no product to push.

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BUSINESS TIPS

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

Photo by Nataliya Vaitkevich from Pexels

The term ‘vegan collagen’ seems to be popping up all over the place but does it actually have a positive impact on the skin? Vegans deserve more than pea protein and misleading marketing in the quest for collagen supplements. Collagen’s value as an essential part of wellness and beauty routines is not under dispute - but the latest in marketing fads – ‘vegan collagen’ – has left me concerned for vegan consumers and their purchasing decisions. Labels matter, always. I’m a stickler when it comes to information in this industry, especially regarding labelling. This is why some of the marketing around ‘vegan collagen’ has left a bad taste in my mouth. There is no such thing as vegan collagen, so the use of this particular term is deceptive. Collagen is, by definition, an animal product created in animal bodies – including our own.

Keeping collagen levels high

So what options are there for vegans who are concerned about the collagen levels in their bodies, particularly as they get older? Pretty much the same options as everyone else has: either stimulate their bodies to make more collagen or counter the degeneration of their existing collagen. Certainly there are many plant-based products that will help vegans stimulate their own bodies to create collagen. However, vegans need to be careful about products that make wild claims or are labelled as vegan collagen. A supplement will either work directly (animal hydrolysed collagen powder) or indirectly (vitamin C, magnesium etc) to promote collagen production in the body. Plant-based supplements work through the indirect model. While some non-animal substances offer far greater benefits than others, taking pea protein and other powdered plant proteins – two basic ingredients that comprise the majority of products on the market for vegans – will not make your body synthesise collagen production. However, a good night’s sleep and obtaining

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vital vitamins and minerals through good-quality, whole foods, will. In terms of safeguarding existing collagen levels, the key is antioxidants. And lucky for vegans, the majority of antioxidants are found in non-animal sources, so it is very easy to obtain a plethora of antioxidants and other vital nutrients that help with healthy skin and body metabolism. For instance, vegans already consume lots of fruit – which is the best source of antioxidants and structured water, and contain far fewer anti-nutrients than vegetables, grains and legumes. In my opinion, both approaches are important, as there are far too many external and internal factors (not related to what we ingest) that play a role in the health of our skin and how our body will or will not produce collagen effectively. We need to give our bodies as much help as possible. At the end of the day, it comes down to personal choice, but for me, a two-pronged approach is best. Under my nutricosmetics brand, we have been developing a vegan-friendly skin supplement that contains ingredients which enhance both collagen production and conservation – not simply some pea protein mixed with amino acids. Vegans deserve an authentic alternative.

Toni Carroll is the founder of nutricosmetic brand My Beauty Luv. Established in 2018, the brand was born out of a need for a professional-grade beauty supplement that targets the most sought-after areas of wellness: anti-ageing, longevity and vitality. Key ingredients are sourced from reputable, industry leaders with claims backed by clinical trials and consumer proven results. Email toni@mybeautyluv.com

BUSINESS TIPS

‘Forced resignation’

Photo by Liza Summer from Pexels

I am a salon owner and would like to have a legal understanding of the term ‘constructive dismissal’. It’s evident that constructive dismissal has become a convenient escape for disgruntled employees. As the EOHCB (Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty), we have increasingly found that employees resign with a special condition to their resignation, so as to keep open the back door for a claim of constructive dismissal. Alternatively, the employee just refers a constructive dismissal dispute to the Bargaining Council or CCMA after resignation. Most of the time ex-employees refer unfair dismissal claims to the Bargaining Council or CCMA as soon as they realise that they cannot claim UIF (Unemployment Insurance Funds) if they have resigned. If, however, the ex-employee is able to prove and convince a commissioner that resigning from the employ of the employer was the last resort, then UIF benefits may be payable.

Constructive dismissal, also known as ‘forced resignation’, is where an employee terminates the contract of employment with or without notice because the employer made continued employment intolerable for the employee. It may be that the employer created or varied the employee’s original terms and conditions of employment in such an adverse way that continued employment under the created or varied terms and conditions of employment was rendered intolerable for the employee. Another example of a constructive dismissal would be the failure of the employer to investigate and protect an employee from sexual harassment, or fear of going to work, and leaving the employee with no alternative but to resign.

Burden of proof

Constructive dismissal is simply a form of dismissal and requires the employee to prove that there was a constructive dismissal, before the employer must prove that the dismissal was fair. In order to claim constructive dismissal, an employee must have resigned. If there has been no resignation, there can be no claim of constructive dismissal. If the dismissal is found to be unfair, the employee is entitled to the remedies set out in the Labour Relations Act (LRA) 55 of 1995 for unfair dismissals. In order to prove that there was a constructive dismissal, an employee will have to prove on a balance of probabilities that: • contract of employment was terminated by the employee because of the employer’s conduct and not, for instance, because the employee was planning to resign in any event; • The reason for the termination of the contract must be that continued employment has become intolerable for the employee. Examples of intolerability could include sexual harassment, assault, or non-payment of remuneration by the employer; and • It must have been the employer of that employee who made the continued employment intolerable.

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BUSINESS TIPS

an employee in a small business to lodge a grievance against an alleged sexual harasser if that person is his or her employer. The test for constructive dismissal is an objective one. The Court has held that a key test is whether it is reasonable to conclude that the employer made continued employment intolerable for the employee. The intolerable situation may be one event (e.g. harassment) or a number of events that have taken place over a period of time (e.g. racial prejudice). The employee may refer a dismissal dispute by completing the LRA 7.11 referral form within thirty (30) days of the termination of the employment relationship. Photo by Karolina Gabrowska from Pexels

Grievance procedure

Employees will struggle to prove constructive dismissal if they leave prior to going through a grievance procedure. Employees must utilise grievance procedures or complain to higher levels of management, provided that that is a reasonable option in the circumstances. For example, it may not be reasonable for

The above article was penned by the EOHCB (Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty). To make contact with the EOHCB go to www.eohcb.co.za DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your questions about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

BUSINESS TIPS

Photo by Fab Lentz on Unsplash

How to achieve success this year Salon owner Hellen Ward reveals some life lessons that will help to get you and your salon on a positive path. s we navigate the early months of 2022 and accept that we must continue to live with Covid-19, encouraging an optimistic mindset in these uncertain times can’t be a bad thing. Personally, I devour inspirational books and am buoyed by some of the messages that can radiate through the gloom and create positivity. Here are my favourites...

Don’t trip over what is behind you

We can let our past disappointments loom large over our future, or we can choose to learn from them and move on, as hard as that can be. So, learning to look forward and not back is a skill we should all cultivate. Whatever we are feeling, the only certainty is that it won’t last forever.

We have two options: learn and grow or repeat

Our brain is hardwired to play detective, always looking for the evidence it needs to confirm its perspective. It will go on a hunt to prove you and your worst fears right, but awareness breaks the cycle. Therefore, the most powerful question to ask yourself is what evidence it’s looking for and why? Otherwise, we are stuck on an endless cycle of repeat.

Endings often spark new beginnings

When one door shuts, another one opens. We might not see it at the time, but it always does.

Hurt people hurt other people

Whether personally or in our work relationships, we can choose to surround ourselves with a tough exterior and ignore the red flags until we start to familiarise them, or choose to be vulnerable and trust our intuition when it comes to other people. Knowing that people hurt others because they are hurt themselves is a powerful lesson.

Learning to LOOK FORWARD AND NOT BACK is a skill we SHOULD ALL CULTIVATE. Whatever we ARE FEELING, the only certainty is that it WON’T LAST FOREVER. They weren’t sorry when you didn’t know – remember that This one hurts ... but, it’s very true. Being honest with ourselves and others is the key to all our trust-based relationships, including those with our staff. I watched a video recently where an 80-year-old woman wanted to divorce her 83-year-old husband after 60 years of

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BUSINESS TIPS

marriage because she’d found out that he’d cheated on her with her best friend when they were in their 30s. “Why are you doing this? I made a mistake”, he said. She replied, “You didn’t make a mistake, you made a decision. And your choice is why I don’t want to be married to you anymore”. Ouch!

You are enough

One of the most life-changing mantras to repeat to yourself is: “I am enough. I have always been enough. I always will be enough”.

Tough times don’t last, tough people do

What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, as they say. Being resilient is a choice. Strength goes hand in hand with the best leadership qualities.

Negativity cannot survive without your participation and permission

People treat us the way we allow them to. Nobody can intimidate us without our consent.

Nothing changes if nothing changes

That includes us and our mindsets. Change is positive. Staying stuck isn’t. Living with uncertainty is well documented as being one of the biggest challenges to mental health, which is perhaps why most people have found the pandemic such a challenge. Just knowing that decisions that affect our personal plans are out of our control is very hard to cope with. We are having to adjust to being at the mercy of something bigger and, potentially, more deadly than all of us. But adjust we must, so perhaps some of the above pearls of wisdom can help us do just that.

The best way to predict the future is to create it

We can all sit back and let life happen, and it will happen to us. As John Lennon said: “Life is what happens to you when you’re busy making other plans.” But we can equally choose to shape our lives into a different path. Sometimes it’s not brave to stay, it’s cowardly.

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London and a beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF).

MALE GROOMING

Nine musts for treating & retaining male clients

As part of our annual focus on male grooming trends, we asked Jared Hines of the awardwinning Hines & Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge for his top tips on how to interact with this client demographic his should come as no surprise to beauty professionals but around 50% of the spa industry market comprises of men. So, what can be done to attract more male clients to your business and what can you do to keep them? My experience in this regard has been invaluable over the years and hopefully, the suggestions below will help you gain and retain your male patrons. Men are loyal but, as I’ve found, not as knowledgeable as women about treatments, product ingredients, etc. What men want is consistency in products and services and they like being treated with warmth, respect and professionalism. When they get these things, they’ll come back – and likely advertise your business to their friends. So, here are my tips for dealing with men in the salon or spa. 1. Educate your male clients. But bear in mind their age when deciding how much knowledge they need. A teenager with acne, for example, may require more guidance establishing his skincare routines in conjunction with grooming care. Older men will be more open to suggestions on skin regeneration and well-being. 2. Men want detailed skin analyses. Avoid feminine terms such as ‘pampering’, ‘soothing’ or ‘calming’. Instead, choose stronger words like ‘vibrant’, ‘energised’ and ‘vital’. 3. A clear understanding is key. Men want to fully understand the benefits of products and treatments you suggest, but without being overloaded with technical jargon. Start by giving them a simple, custom-designed routine for their skin.

Photo by Emiliano Vittoriosi on Unsplash

4. Men want to feel more confident and youthful. Suggest things like peels, skin regenerating treatments and laser resurfacing. Most of the time men will be open to your recommendations. 5. Be bold and confident. Uncertainty and inexperience irritate men. People today have no time to waste; they want results yesterday. 6. Don’t laugh at ‘dumb’ questions. Although it may seem simple and something that the client should already know, most men would consider a question like, ‘When do I use a cleanser?’ to be perfectly reasonable. Keeping the atmosphere warm, friendly and professional will ensure that he is engaged. 7. Create a safe space. Massage is the number one treatment for men. Therefore, it’s very important to train your team to deal with inappropriate behaviour – particularly in hotels and resorts. Empowering your team members with clearly articulated boundaries keeps everything professional. 8. Don’t try to ‘sell to’ men. They want to buy skincare products as we all do, but they don’t want that salesperson-impersonal sense of being ‘sold’ to. Instead, show them how a product feels on their skin. Let them see and experience its effects for themselves. Give them recommendations as a professional. 9. Keep it simple. Men generally appreciate straight talk and are uncomfortable waiting around. Men also generally don’t want long, in-depth explanations. They are also less price-sensitive than most women. Once you’ve established yourself and your facility as a trusted, credible resource, your male clients will be open to new treatments and product suggestions. There has been a massive increase worldwide for all kinds of treatments such as: laser hair removal, platelet-rich plasma (PRP) for hair regrowth and skin regeneration, anti-wrinkle toxin injections, dermal fillers and tattoo removal. If your male client leaves happy, chances are he’ll be back, and back regularly.

Jared Hines has more than a decade’s worth of international and domestic experience in the spa industry and is the founder and owner of Hines & Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge, the winner of four Professional Beauty Awards. Hines himself has won many awards for salon and spa management.

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MALE GROOMING

Make-up For Men

We asked professional make-up artist and salon owner, Jenine O’Reilly, to provide a perspective on male make-up services

Have you noticed an increase in the number of men wanting make-up services recently?

In the last two to three years there has definitely been a rise in male client bookings for make-up. I’ve also noticed an increase in the number of men feeling more comfortable with the concept of wearing make-up.

Do your male clients mostly want to wear make-up for a special occasion, or do some of them want to wear it every day? Most men wearing make-up do so for special occasions. Having make-up done for photo shoots, such as for a wedding day, is also very popular among males.

When I get A MALE CLIENT, I CONSULT WITH HIM in the SAME WAY as my FEMALE CUSTOMERS, while ensuring that I understand HIS SPECIFIC REASON FOR wanting a MAKE-UP SERVICE. Is there a particular type of man, in your experience, who wants to wear make-up?

Any male working in the entertainment industry will have to wear make-up on a daily basis. Most of my male clients do suffer from some sort of skin discoloration or skin condition and some of them may want to conceal that with make-up. There also clients who may have suffered an injury and want to wear make-up to help with colour correcting.

Photo by Mart Productions from Pexels

Is there a particular age group into which most of your male make-up clients fall?

Most of my male clients are between the ages of 25 to 35.

If a man comes to you for occasion makeup (e.g. for a wedding or event), how would you make him up? Do you approach the job in the same way as you would for a female client in terms of using similar cosmetic products? When I get a male client, I consult with him in the same

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MALE GROOMING

way as my female customers, while ensuring that I understand his specific reason for wanting a make-up service. Product brands will stay the same but product types will maybe differ here and there in terms of oily and dry skin. I will mostly use more natural looking colour tones for men and make sure that the majority of the make-up that I use on them is smudge proof and long lasting.

Would this type of make-up differ from making up a man for television or film, the latter being heavier perhaps?

Yes, definitely. When doing make-up for any type of film, television show or production, men have to wear more make-up than everyday make-up looks. You have to make sure that you define certain areas that disappear on screen, or that might look dull behind the camera. It’s important to give more colour to the face for these type of occasions and to use professional make-up brands suited to cameras and lights.

TINTED MOISTURISERS give a more NATURAL LOOKING finish for EVERYDAY MAKE-UP and are a PERFECT WAY FOR MALES to give their skin a MORE FLAWLESS LOOK without the coverage BEING TOO HEAVY. Photo by Shvets Production from Pexels

Are more and more men tinting their eyelashes and eyebrows?

Because more defined, natural looking brows have become increasingly popular, more men are tinting their eyebrows and eyelashes. This gives men a way to define their brows and lashes without actually wearing any make-up.

If a man comes to you and asks for advice on what he should use for everyday makeup, what would you suggest?

I will definitely start of by recommending a brow gel, even a tinted brow gel. It’s a perfect way to shape eyebrows without any heavy make-up and usually lasts the whole day. A lightweight foundation or BB cream is very useful to cover any blemishes or skin problems. Using a lip balm is also a great way to keep lips moisturised. If a man likes some more colour on his face, he can finish off with some bronzer for contouring his facial features in a natural way.

Would you also advise such a client on how he should care for his skin, as in cleanse, exfoliate, tone and moisturise? Of course! Skin prepping is very important when it comes to make-up. Cleansing before and after wearing make-up is a must. Make sure to use the correct face wash for the right skin type though. Exfoliating will help to get rid of dead skin cells and can be beneficial for removing any dry skin. This will help to achieve an even, smooth application of foundation. Toner is also very important for men as it will help with tightening pores before applying make-up. Moisturising the skin before applying make-up is also very important, but only with a moisturiser that is compatible with your make-up products.

Do you find some men wear tinted mosituriser as opposed to base?

Yes, tinted moisturisers give a more natural looking finish for everyday make-up and are a perfect way for males to give their skin a more flawless look without the coverage being too heavy. Most men who wear bronzer use it for contouring purposes, such as for photo shoots or stage events.

Jenine O’Reilly is the owner of Belle Beauty Hair and Make-up Salon in Vanderbijlpark. She completed her BSC degree in Fashion Marketing & Designing in 2015 at the North West School of Design in Klerksdorp. O’Reilly has been working as a make-up artist for the past six years and has an absolute passion for bridal and glam make-up. She is also a part-time actress.

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Man cave

Apart from the traditional demand for shaving products and devices, as well as haircare and styling, the men’s grooming market as a whole has taken on a new dimension over the past decade, as Joanna Sterkowicz reports 24

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

MALE GROOMING

ccording to a study published in February this year by Statista Research Department, the global male grooming market is predicted to be worth about $81.2 billion by 2024. States the report: “There has been a pivotal shift in male pampering culture during the last decade. Men’s toiletries used to consist of shampoo, deodorant, shaving cream and not much else. But from London to New York to São Paulo, bathroom cabinets of middle-class homes now brim with moisturisers, facial cleansers, eye serums, bronzers, concealers, anti-agers and even mud masks, all designed specifically for men. “Men have begun to spend more cash on male-specific toiletries than on shaving products. Sales of skincare, in particular, boomed; and there is no going back now. More and more men are putting higher stock into looking good. It’s about self-confidence as much as anything else, and the desire to feel more attractive, more successful, and, increasingly, more youthful. “The industry should expect to see a further segmentation of men’s grooming, particularly in the developed markets where there are opportunities for a stronger development. In skincare, there will be growth in products designed not only for different skin types, but also for different degrees of stubble. The number of product launches for men will still be low in comparison with products for women, of course, but the gap will narrow over time.”

Rockets Man

THE FUTURE IN MALE GROOMING is definitely the ONE STOP SHOP that caters for an INDIVIDUAL’S NEEDS across beauty and grooming.

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MALE GROOMING

conscious of what they are buying. Customers are aiming for more affordable products and sales of the super high-end ranges have tapered off.” Sinclair adds that while treatment sales are picking up post lockdown, retail sales have not recovered as well. She continues: “We continue to innovate to deliver on the changing consumer male’s grooming needs, such as wellness, ingestible health, hair loss and accessories. Skincare and facials are services that are showing growth as men increasingly care for their skin with the aim of healthy-looking skin. Convenience is on the increase driven by online ordering platforms. The desire for value for money is more prevalent now than ever before.” Sorbet Man has not adjusted its treatment menu because of Covid, but did hold off on price increases on certain treatments. New brands and treatments have been added to the menu to attract a new guest, as well as to offer the current Sorbet Man guest new treatment and retail innovations. Promotions throughout the year were focused on new innovation and added value offers to the guest.

Sorbet Man

Franchises

Two of the leading franchises for male grooming salons in South Africa are Sorbet Man and Rockets Man. Sean Barber, founder of Rockets Man, notes that in terms of trends, his clients are wanting more experiential treatments and looks with their haircuts and colours. “There seems to be an increased need for clients to express themselves more through their cuts and the look they are going for. More and more clients are asking for vibrant colours, both in beards and hair. Men are also trying certain colours in gel polish nails, and not simply going for the clear look anymore. “The Rockets Man customer has always been very image and quality conscious and frequently combines a haircut with a mani or a pedi. However, there is definitely a trend to have facials and massages as well, on top of the cut and mani/pedi. The future in male grooming is definitely the one stop shop that caters for an individual’s needs across beauty and grooming,” he explains. Linda Sinclair, group CEO of the Sorbet Group, comments: “Hair colour is popular amongst our Sorbet Man guests. Covid-19 has given them the courage to experiment with trends, styles and colours. Hair loss treatments and advanced pedicures have also increased. We’ve noticed that men are taking to waxing, mani-pedis and facials.”

Covid economy

Barber notes that footfall into his salons is approximately 40% less than pre-pandemic levels. “Working from home has made people more sedentary, and they have realised they can either cut from home, or don’t need to cut as often as they used to. And, in terms of retail, people are definitely more price

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MEN ARE WILLING to EXPERIMENT WITH products that ENHANCE THEIR GROOMING routine and deliver BETTER RESULTS in less time. Advanced treatments

In the female beauty salon sector there is a growing demand for advanced and device-based treatments, but are men following suit? Barber comments: “Men are always a little behind women when it comes to new trends and innovations in the beauty sector, but they definitely eventually pick it up. If there is a demand and it is economically feasible for us to include these types of treatments in our offerings, then we will most certainly look at it.” Sinclair adds: “The beauty industry is ever evolving and the male grooming market is definitely seeing a growth in more advanced, results driven treatments. Men are willing to experiment with products that enhance their grooming routine and deliver better results in less time. As a brand, we also pride ourselves in evolving and adapting to ever growing and changing male grooming needs.”

The lure of loyalty

Rather than running loyalty rewards for customers, Rockets Man prefers to run monthly combo specials. “However,” says Barber, “the reward system integrated with our Rockets Man restaurants and clubs is something that we are looking at implementing, as it fits in perfectly with the lifestyle element that Rockets as a brand continually provides.” Meanwhile, the Sorbet Society reward programme continues to increase. “Our guests see the value in the rewards being offered, in particular, the birthday rewards where they can get up to 50% off treatments in their birthday month,” concludes Sinclair.

MALE GROOMING PRODUCTS

Men only

The ever-expanding men’s grooming market has led to the creation of specific male ranges, some within professional skincare brands Taurec complex

All products in the Babor Men range are based on the powerful Taurec complex derived from Siberian ginseng (to increase stress resistance), to taurine (a stimulant that helps the cell membrane to improve moisture absorption), to the cell boost factor. The latter consists of proteins from white lupines and green algae, which activate the skin cells and thus promote skin regeneration. Babor Men is vegan-friendly and does not contain any silicones, parabens, PEGs, mineral oils or dyes. Instant Energy Ampoules contain caffeine for an immediate energy boost, as well as Vitamin C and provitamin B5 to make the skin look refreshed and healthy. Triple-strength hyaluronic acid provides moisture with maximum effect. Other products in the Babor Men range are: Calming Face & Eye Cream; Energising Face & Eye Gel; Calming After Shave Serum; Energising Hair & Body Shampoo; and the Men Travel Set.

Two-in-one strategy

The men’s products in the Six Skincare brand are mostly two-in-one products because, as the Six team says, ‘men don’t like to faff!’ An example of such a product is a shaving face wash, so that men can use the wash to clean their skin and to shave with. Further examples are the moisturiser, which doubles up as an after shave balm,

and the beard oil that doubles up as a winter dry skin serum and shaving rash, or shaving bump, remedy. Two new products added to the Six Men’s range are the Refreshing Scrub, using 100% natural pumice as an exfoliator and thus perfect for the thicker male skin, and the Firming Eye Gel as the movement of men towards eye care is rising. Salons and spas offering Six have four men’s treatments: Man On The Move (30-minute deep clean); Energising Facial (60 minutes, extractions, masking and anti-ageing if required); High Performance AHA Skin Peel (30-minute glycolic or lactic acid skin peel for men); and First Class Treatment (90 minutes, includes a back massage).

Award-winning

Gentlemen’s Tonic is an international, awardwinning luxury male spa, grooming, skin and hair concept proudly founded in London in 2004. The brand is also a pioneer in both retail and professional products, offering an awardwinning selection of male grooming products, as well as a scientifically advanced anti-ageing cosmeceutical range. Gentlemen’s Tonic professional products are already used by many of the world’s most recognised and luxurious five-star and boutique hotels and spas, while both its Babassu & Bergamot line, as well as the Derma-Care range, are also sold in the most prestigious department stores and spas, globally, all specifically developed and formulated solely with men’s skin and needs in mind. The brand is available in Southern Africa and Mauritius through The Spa Warehouse.

Home brewed

The Hines & Harley product range combines the brand’s aromatherapy expertise and its passion for beards, moustaches and male skin. Its beard wash, beard oil, beard balm, beard moisturiser, moustache wax, shaving oil and aftershave balm are made on the premises by the brand’s founder, Jared Hines. Base ingredients for the products are coconut oil and aloe oil. Coconut is naturally antibacterial and antifungal and an excellent skin moisturiser. Aloe oil possesses anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, antioxidant and astringent properties. A variety of essential oils is used to give the products their fragrances and enhance their powers. These include basil, cedarwood, cinnamon, cypress, fennel, jasmine, palma rosa, patchouli, peppermint, rosemary and sandalwood.

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EXHIBITOR PREVIEW

Time to show off

Monday 28th March, Bryanston Country Club, Johannesburg

Some of the industry’s top suppliers in the beauty, aesthetics and nail sectors will be displaying their wares at the table top exhibition that forms part of Professional Beauty’s Big Buzz Business Conference Afrinity Solutions • www.afrinitysolutions.co.za • info@afrinitysolutions.co.za Wrinkles Schminkles is a global leader in non-invasive, anti-aging wrinkle treatments that work! Our brand and product range focuses on performance and results, ensuring you see and feel the results on your own skin, as quickly as possible.

Bio Sculpture • www.biosculpture.com Our purpose is to provide quality products and professional training, empowering nail technicians to offer healthy and fashionable nail care systems, guided by an ethical business approach. Visit our stand for more information and unbelievable specials!

Hitech Lasers Pty Ltd • www.hitechlasers.co.za • aesthetics@hitechlasers.co.za The Hitech Group, established in 1974, provides the highest quality aesthetic-medical systems. ONDA

• www.radianthealth.co.za • jacques@radianthealth.co.za Radiant Healthcare is committed to becoming the country’s leading aesthetic and medical equipment distributor of choice, providing the latest medical equipment and accessories in the quickest, simplest and most convenient way to our valued clients. Service is an attitude that extends throughout our Radiant company.

RefectoCil • www.refectocil.co.za • info@refectocil.co.za Create a unique Lash and Brow style through 8 RefectoCil tint colours and blonde brow paste, with our new care products range and tools. Show offer on Lash Lifter R180 cash. Lucky draw product value R1,200.

Rezo Rezo is silicone and sulfate-free, vegan and botanically enriched, designed and developed by haircare professionals for a guaranteed effect on all types of curly hair. It leaves your hair ultrahydrated yet with a weightless feeling.

Best Lasers (Pty) Ltd • www.bestlasers.co.za • reception@bestlasers.co.za Best Lasers is the sole Sub-Saharan Africa distributor for Alma Lasers International, a global developer, manufacturer and provider of laser, light-based, radiofrequency and ultrasound devices for aesthetic and medical applications. We include full training, certifications and delivery.

Radiant Healthcare

Spa & Salon Solutions

PLUS with patented Coolwaves®, through 3 handpieces, dissolves fat, treats cellulite, tightens and contours the skin. MOTUS AY, an FDA approved Alexandrite & Nd:YAG laser, allows treatment of numerous dermatology concerns and pain-free hair removal on ALL skin types.

InLei® South Africa • www.inlei.co.za • info@inlei.co.za InLei’s Revolutionary Lash Filler® Treatment is scientifically proven to penetrate and thicken the natural hair by 24%. InLei® Brow Bomber nourishes the hair while delivering soft, silky, and obedient eyebrows. Discounts up to 35% and a grand prize valued at R4,500.

• www.spaandsalonsolutions.com • info@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za Spa and Salon Solutions is a well-established and respected specialist supplier locally and increasingly abroad – largely due to the development and growth of the Milk Solutions range of hand, foot and body care products and professional equipment.

The Spa Consultants • www.thespaconsultants.com • micaela@thespaconsultants.com The Spa Consultants will be SHOWCASING the very first RF Needling Machine in SA! Come and experience a treatment for FREE valued at R2,000 and see for yourself the results of this latest technology using 81 gold plated pins to needle the skin, whilst delivering radiofrequency energy into the deeper layers for an instant tightening and lifting effect.

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CONFERENCE NEWS

The BIG Buzz Business Conference A must attend conference, packed full of information that can help you to grow your business, whether a beauty salon, hair salon or spa. Great speakers, great topics, a great opportunity

09.30 – 10.00: Creating business processes in your Salon, Aesthetic Clinic or Spa – Julia Delany With accurate and timeous monthly management accounts, it is possible to make informed decisions about your business needs. 10.00 – 10.30: Unstoppable Social Media & Authentic Influencer Strategies – Ayesha Rajah Guarantee engagement and ROI with cut-through content and high-impact collaboration 10.30 – 11.00: Coffee Break 11.00 – 11.30: Create an award winning salon, it’s all in the detail – Gina Gall The devil is always in the detail and it is essential that salon owners remember this. Gina will be sharing some of her insights on how she approaches each day to ensure consistent quality in delivery of treatments to her clients. 11.30 – 12.15: Double your income! Marisa Dimitriadis We are going to discuss a word that is revolutionising businesses in all industries across the globe. This word is the difference between a business that ambles along, just managing to get by every month, and a business that flies and is in total command of its cash flow and growth 12.15 – 13.30: Lunch

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Monday 28th March, Bryanston Country Club, Johannesburg

13.30 – 14.00: How do companies prove the product claims that they make? - John Knowlton A fascinating topic that looks into the claims brands make about the effectiveness of their products. How are they able to prove that these claims are truthful? John Knowlton is a chemist who spent many years testing these claims and showing that yes, the products work, or sometimes that the claims were rather exaggerated. 14.00 - 14.45: Building a sustainable business - Keynote Speaker: Candice Thurston (Candi & Co) Candice Thurston is the founder of Candi & Co, a brand that works within the Sorbet Group and one that very much wished to change the way the beauty industry looks after the ethnic market. Hear Candice’s story and the top 5 tips that she has for building a sustainable business. 14.45 – 15.30: Is the current educational syllabus working for salons and spas? A panel discussion focusing on what are salons and spas looking for from the educational sector. Is the vacuum treatment still relevant for students to learn in 2022, or is it like many other treatments – an outdated modality that should be consigned to a museum? *Please note, the programme may change due to circumstances beyond our control.

CONFERENCE NEWS

Aesthetic Medicine Conference

Monday 28th March, Bryanston Country Club, Johannesburg

This is an educational event for doctors, aesthetic therapists and nurses who are interested in the latest trends in aesthetics. With the fast moving pace and growth of the industry, the aim of this event is to upskill and inform industry professionals and encourage them to learn and educate each other. CPD points will be awarded.

10.00 – 10.30: Speaker TBC The importance of prepping skin prior to collagen induction treatment, namely laser resurfacing, chemical peels and micro needling, in order to receive optimal results and satisfied patients. 10.30 – 11.00: Speaker TBC The anatomy of hyper pigmentation and effective management thereof. 11.00 – 11.30: Tea 12.00 – 13.00: Dr Johan Botha Among the different solutions for nose correction, the Aptos Method is mentioned as a less invasive alternative to a surgical rhinoplasty without the risks and downtime associated with surgery. Dr Johan Botha from Dermafrica will be doing a live demonstration showcasing what can be achieved with this injectable treatment modality. 13.00 – 14.00: Lunch 14.00 – 15.00: Dr Bart Kurek How to take effective before and afters with a cell phone in your clinic. 14.45 – 15.15: Estee Veale Brightening the skin with light. The role that IPL and laser treatments play in a clinic and the types of results that can be achieved. 15.15 -15.30: Tea 15.30 – 16.00: Raymond Schoeman First principles and laws of nature that govern light therapy and the 5 most common mistakes made by laser hair removal laser therapists. *Please note, the programme may change due to circumstances beyond our control.

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SPA FOCUS

Thermae all the way The Winelands Spa in Pretoria recently underwent a major revamp involving a spate of new and upgraded facilities. Joanna Sterkowicz gets the details riginally opened in 1997, the Winelands Spa forms part of the Kievits Kroon Gauteng Wine Estate and is privately owned. With its lush, manicured lawns, beautiful rose beds, landscaped gardens and Cape Dutch-style Manor House, Kievits Kroon is reminiscent of the wine estates of the Cape, and has been labelled, ‘The Winelands in Gauteng’. As such, it is the only property in Gauteng to depict the typical Cape Wine Farm look and feel. Some 2,300 square metres in size, the spa has one of the most advanced thermae treatment facilities in the province. Guests can re-energise and detoxify in the well-designed steam rooms, saunas, Jacuzzis, sensation showers, Razul chamber, mud massage & scrub room, outdoor spa experience area with herbal spa bath, and the exfoliation & massage area beneath the African sky, as well as the indoor brine plunge pools. The heated indoor swimming pool with its view of the picturesque estate completes the facilities. Two of the Jacuzzis are

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SPA FOCUS

situated next to the indoor heated therapy pool, while the men’s and ladies’ areas each have a Jacuzzi for those guests who prefer more genderprivate sessions. “Winelands Spa is about creating unforgettable experiences and memories that our guests want to recreate over and over again,” says Marisa Dimitriadis of The Spa Consultants, which has a management contract with the spa until June 2022. “From the moment the guest walks through the doors, the sensorial journey begins, one that is so powerful and so memorable that you will want to experience it over and over again.”

laser technology for pain free hair removal and radiofrequency needling for skin tightening and collagen induction.

Business

The spa’s packages account for 60% of its revenue and most leisure, corporate and hotel guests book packages exclusively. “We are extremely focused on retail as it’s the only way to continue the results we offer at home and keep the skin in optimum condition,” comments Dimitriadis. “Our highly skilled and trained therapists offer in depth and very professional consultations to ensure the correct prescription is issued after treatment. Therefore, we don’t really call it retail but rather, necessary homecare.”

Hanakasumi Operations

In terms of treatment areas, there are two single MediSpa rooms, six double rooms, two group rooms accommodating up to four beds each, two outdoor private experience areas with the spa bath and exfoliation and mud wrap slab, one indoor private wet room with heated slab for exfoliations, mud wraps and experience showers, a four-seater pedicure lounge and a four seater manicure/ nail lounge. There are currently 19 therapists at the spa, with the management team in the process of recruiting six nail technicians for the nail bar, as well as a spa manager. “We are also starting up our MediSpa with a full aesthetic offering, which is most exciting as we have researched the latest trends in aesthetic procedures and will be offering only the newest and best technology,” notes Dimitriadis. This includes advanced skin peeling, dermaplaning and automated microneedling (or collagen induction therapy). The MediSpa is also looking into the latest diode

One of the treatments on offer at the spa is the Hanakasumi Body Treatment, a unique treatment inspired from Japanese tradition. It involves a 90-minute sensorial body experience that includes a warming exfoliation and a specialised full body aromatic butter massage. Meanwhile, the spa’s signature treatment, The Winelands Experience, is all about hyper personalising 90 minutes of different types of massages, using several products to create a variety of experiences on the body. The treatment begins with an aroma fusion into the room, which is specific to the guest’s needs, followed by a 60-minute full body aromatic massage using heated oil that is specifically chosen by the guest to meet their body and emotional needs at the time. A 15-minute scalp massage using a hair conditioning Marula oil is perfomed to deeply relax the soul and finally, a hand and arm massage, or foot and lower leg massage, using a specialised butter blend is performed and once again formulated to meet the guest’s specific needs. This treatment was inspired by the need to give clients personalised experiences to meet their individual needs.

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SUSTAINABILITY WATER CONSUMPTION (and wastage) has reached ALARMING PROPORTIONS WORLDWIDE, with the WHO recently predicting that HALF OF THE WORLD’S POPULATION will be living in WATER-STRESSED AREAS by 2025.

How do we practice ‘sanitas per aqua’ (health from water) sustainably? The second article in Charne le Roux’s Sustainability Newsdesk series focuses on how spas can reduce their water usage in clever and innovative ways

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Photo by Sergey Torbik from Pexels

id you know that a single Vichy shower can consume approximately 700 litres of water and a Hamman treatment, 600 litres? This equates to about 4-5 full bathtubs and with multiple treatments a day, can quickly escalate to the equivalent of draining and filling a medium size pool every month. Water consumption (and wastage) has reached alarming proportions worldwide, with the WHO (World Health Organisation) recently predicting that half of the world’s population will be living in water-stressed areas by 2025. Knowing that fresh water is a precious and fast-diminishing resource worldwide, but especially in South Africa, water reduction practices should be top-of-mind for each of us. That being said, we know too that from the moment our guests enter our spa, water is typically central to their experience. After all, the word ‘spa’ refers to the Latin phrase that means ‘health through water’. For centuries and since ancient times, people have drawn from the curing powers of natural hot springs, rivers, ponds and the ocean. It’s been well proven that hydrotherapy treatments can address issues of the body and mind, by easing mobility problems, relaxing aching muscles and by reducing stress, anxiety and insomnia.

Hydro facilities

It is not uncommon that most spas might provide amongst other things, pools, hot tubs and steam rooms, not to mention possible Vichy- and experience showers, water circuit therapy, Kneipp and Watsu pools, ice fountains and water intensive treatments such as body wraps and scrubs. Added to this water-consumption rich portfolio are guest showers – a must-have facility even when no

SUSTAINABILITY

aquatic therapies are offered. And then of course there are the spa’s laundry requirements. The water applications at most spas are quite significant. So, how can we practice spa in its proper context if we consider ourselves bound to saving water? The answer is to innovate, to transform traditional therapies, and to put water efficiency practices into place.

Image from Pixabay

Solutions

Water conscious spas are increasingly opting for waterless treatments such as massages, waterless manicures and pedicures, and products such as no-rinse body wraps. They are re-thinking their wet treatment regimes and incorporating body treatment products that make it possible to offer traditionally wet room treatments in a dry environment, with specially formulated products that stay moist and can be removed with a damp cloth. They innovate too. Preidlhof in Northern Italy unveiled a magnificent deep sea chamber, where, without any water, a thalasso (i.e. the use of sea water as a form of therapy) experience is created. Guests, choosing in advance their preferred ocean depth, are sealed in an airtight chamber and are then engulfed in light, sound and vibration. Powerhouses like L’Oreal are also innovating, coming up with micronisation technology (in partnership with a Swedish start-up), whereby water droplets are split to enhance the water experience while reducing actual consumption. Bring back communal bathing facilities! Bathing as a collective act has its roots in many diverse classic cultures and facilitated self- expression, relaxation, religious practices and even political debate. Practicing hydro therapy in groups naturally brings about reduction in water consumption. Ultimately, water efficiency strategies ought to put spas well ahead in their water conservation programmes, even without having to innovate or change any therapies. In fact, these strategies apply not only in our spas and beauty salons but also at home.

Steps to take

Firstly, it’s vital to put management and measurement practices in place. Appoint a water monitor to take charge of your water consumption, understand your water needs, install sub-metering and measure your consumption regularly. Then apply the following guidelines. 1. I nspect all your spa’s water- and pool equipment to make sure they work efficiently. Inspect all plumbing and fixtures to ensure there are no leaks. 2. I nstall low-flow showerheads and faucet aerators wherever possible. Older systems reduced water flow so significantly that spa guests were unhappy using them, but more recent models have been met with great user satisfaction and can reduce consumption by up to 9 litres per minute. 3. P urchase water-efficient appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers. Run them only when they are fully loaded. Manage the use of robes and towels by offering these on a demand only basis. This will significantly cut down on laundry and consequently water consumption. 4. R eplace older toilets, which can use up to 15 litres per flush, with more modern dual flush ones, which use around 4 litres per flush. Otherwise, install a conversion kit to do the same job. 5. E xpand your water base. Capture rainwater and, if permitted by your local authority, re-use water recovered from showers, washing machines and cooling towers. This type of water is generally termed ‘grey water’ and, after minimal treatment, can very effectively be used for irrigation and toilet-flushing. Collect storm water in tanks to use on lawns and gardens. 6. B e mindful in the selection of plants in landscape design, since indigenous and hardy plants fare significantly better in overall water consumption than their foreign counterparts. 7. A nd lastly, use pool covers to reduce evaporation. While on the topic of pools, these should, if at all possible, be free of chlorine and other harsh chemicals. These chemicals cause skin and eye irritation and are also harmful to the environment when drained into water courses and out into dams, rivers and the ocean. Salt and ozone technology provide solutions for sterilising pool water and many specialist pool contractors are qualified to provide chemical free water treatment solutions. An existing conventional pool can also be converted into a natural swimming pool (totally absent of harsh chemicals) with the add-on of a biological filtration system to the side of the pool.

Charne le Roux is the founder of GreenSpa. Africa. She advises, creates and implements sustainability practice in the wellness industry, as well as connects green spas in Africa. Email charne@greenspa.africa

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WELLNESS

Healthy mind, happy person

Spa consultant Marisa Dimitriadis delves into the topic of mental health, an issue that is trending strongly in the global wellness sector

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

orld renowned author and alternative medicine advocate, Deepak Chopra, once said: “For everyone, wellbeing is a journey…. The secret is committing to that journey and taking those first steps with hope and belief in yourself”. Mental health includes our emotional, psychological and social wellbeing. It affects how we think, feel and act. Furthermore, it impacts directly on our ability to cope with stress, overcome challenges, build relationships, and recover from life’s setbacks and hardships. Being mentally or emotionally healthy is much more than being free of depression, anxiety, or other psychological issues. Mental health refers to the presence of positive characteristics. Thus, being able to identify these characteristics (or lack of them) is where we come in as an industry that is focused on making people look and feel better. Yes, we could be the start of helping someone who is ‘secretly’ mentally ill, to get better. However, not all of our clients and colleagues will demonstrate or even tell us that they are depressed, anxious or feeling mentally fatigued.

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ANYONE CAN SUFFER from MENTAL OR EMOTIONAL HEALTH PROBLEMS at any point in their life AND EVERY SINGLE one of us at some point will. What is FRIGHTENING IS how many of us IGNORE THE EMOTIONAL MESSAGES which tell us that SOMETHING IS WRONG Identifying someone who could potentially be mentally unwell

Look out for the following behavioural characteristics in your colleagues and clients. • A sense of sadness, numbness and not much expression • Doesn’t laugh much • Not able to adapt to change well • No balance between work, play, relationships and rest • Not very confident, exhibits low self-esteem, not worried about how they look or how they are perceived, speaks very softly • Body language is withdrawn and not much eye contact • Not able to make friends easily and has small friendship circle

WELLNESS

• Not excited about their future and not looking forward to anything Remember that anyone can suffer from mental or emotional health problems at any point in their life and every single one of us at some point will. What is frightening is how many of us ignore the emotional messages which tell us that something is wrong; we bottle up the problems and just hope that no-one will notice and we find comfort in the belief that it will eventually go away or get better. Others drown the feelings with drugs, alcohol or self-destructive behaviours.

Photo by Suzy Hazelwood from Pexel

LEARNING HOW to keep stress levels IN CHECK is something that MOST PEOPLE BATTLE WITH so, as a professional IN OUR INDUSTRY, YOU CAN HELP HERE so much without even realising it. What action to take

Let’s now look at ways that we, as professionals in the wellness and beauty industry, can help our clients and colleagues who may be suffering from mental health issues and how we can incorporate mental wellbeing into our business model. 1. Face to face connections. Nothing beats face to face time with people. So, whilst you already interact closely with your clients during appointments, why not also engage in a quarterly, in-person event with different themes and each quarter revolving around building strong, resilient and healthy minds. Don’t be afraid to speak out about it and yes, even create events around it. You will be surprised at how many people will find comfort and healing at these times of connection. 2. Regular exercise has a major impact on mental wellbeing. It helps relieve stress and improves memory and sleep. If you have the space in your

spa, then it is easy to introduce pilates, yoga, guided meditations, stretching classes and getting groups together to focus on exercise that also heals the mind. If you don’t have the space, you can still take part and collaborate with a studio near your business and offer value added exchanges for your services and theirs, and promote a group of clients to go together. 3. Learning how to keep stress levels in check is something that most people battle with so, as a professional in our industry, you can help here so much without even realising it. Stimulating the senses is one of the most powerful stress management tools ever and who better to do this than salons and spas? Make your client’s time with you count not just with an excellent treatment, but with sounds that relieve stress. I’m not talking about whales and water sounds, I am talking about melodies or specific sounds that actually put the brain into a state of calm and serenity. Similarly, aromas that reduce stress and induce calm are very powerful to infuse into the treatment room space at the beginning and end of the treatment. Perhaps offer the client something to hold, like a stress ball or beads, which can offer tactile stimulation. The list is endless. 4. What you eat affects the way you feel and think. This is where we need to be observant and guide our clients carefully. Alcohol, caffeine and sugary snacks all adversely affect mood and sadly, our body craves this when we are not in the best mental space. So, instead of being quick to offer a coffee or a glass of wine, rather offer a herbal tea, or a special infusion that you have researched that improves mood and uplifts the soul. 5. Speak openly about mental health. Include some questions in your consultations, or initiate meaningful conversations, so you can be clear about your client’s mental state. Don’t be shy to promote mental wellbeing as part of your marketing and social media campaigns and partner with a medical professional who is qualified and who you can refer to clients who you know might need help and someone to speak to. Once clients see that you have a network to help, they might be open to speaking about their mental health and even to getting some help. I believe that our responsibility in the industry we represent is not only to make people look and feel better, but also to do whatever we can to improve their mental wellbeing.

Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder and owner of The Spa Consultants and a co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild. Email marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

HAIR NEWS Shine on

From Biosense, the Colorsense ammonia-free, vegan Color Gloss oil comes in a variety of 20 colors. Gentle on the scalp and skin, it promotes shine and strengthens hair. Ingredients include Symoleao Vita 7 (olive, almond, avocado, soybean and cottonseed oils); symHair (wheat bran extract and camellia oil); and Lumine shine (verbasco flower extract). 011 305 1600

Crowning glory

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front

Dual purpose cream Authentic Beauty Concept’s Hand & Hair Light Cream is formulated with bakuchiol to nourish and protect both skin and hair. It can be run through the hair or massaged into the skin. This product and the brand’s Eau de Toilette feature a pure, fresh and elegant floral scent composed of a generous bouquet of white peony and accents of fresh cut leaves. 011 617 2400

online @ probeauty.co.za

Kayise Ngqula at the grand opening

Naitvechild opens second Hair & Beauty Bar

South African hair care brand, Nativechild, launched its second Hair & Beauty Bar on 29 January, in Michelangelo Towers, Sandton. The store is a one stop self-care spot offering a full beauty experience – from hair to nails to eyebrow maintenance for men and women. “Getting your hair and nails done is part of self-care, so when designing our store, we made sure we created a relaxing environment to break away from the realities of life. We want our customers to enjoy a world class hair experience from people who understand natural hair, so that they leave the salon feeling beautiful and refreshed,” says Nativechild founder, Sonto Pooe. She views the new store opening as another step in entrenching the benefits of Nativechild’s products. Locally developed and manufactured, these hair and body products are plant based, natural and safe. Sustainable ingredients of the finest grade are used in the production and where possible, food grade oils. The range does not contain any harsh chemicals, sulphates, parabens or petroleum and is animal cruelty-free. Nativechild opened its first Hair & Beauty Bar at Cresta Mall in October 2021 and has received requests from customers from all over South Africa to open more branches. “Growing the Nativechild Hair & Beauty Bar footprint resulted from increasing demand from our customers who want to experience our products in a salon environment, and who then continue to use them at home,” concludes Pooe.

AESTHETIC MEDICINE

The depths of

hydration Karen Ellithorne focuses on a magical skincare ingredient that can hold more than 1,000 times its molecular weight in water

natural polysaccharide that is found in the dermis of the skin as well as in the connective tissue and joints of the body, this ingredient assists with the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles and speeds up wound healing. You guessed correctly – it is of course the active ingredient, hyaluronic acid! Type of Ingredient: Hydrator and skin plumper. Main benefits: Skin moisturiser, assists with wrinkle reduction, cell moisture and plumpness of dermis.

Who should use it?

It is safe for all skin types as it is a naturally occurring ingredient of the skin. However, patients with eczema and rosacea may want to patch test before using.

When Can It Be Used?

Hyaluronic acid can be applied twice daily, morning and evening as a topical product as part of a normal skincare routine, but can also be injected into the skin and ingested under administration of a doctor only. Works well topically with: Vitamin C, vitamin B5 and glycolic acid. Don’t use with: There are no negative reactions to hyaluronic acid.

Hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate

Image sourced from Pixabay

ingredient list) as sodium hyaluronate? Well, sodium hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid and is water soluble. It is this form of hyaluronic acid that is able to hold water. And, it is also more stable and less likely to oxidise because of its salt base. Both versions are used in cosmeceutical products and are generally marketed as hyaluronic acid, there is however a key difference. Sodium hyaluronate has much smaller particles and a lower molecular weight than hyaluronic acid, which allows for much deeper penetration into the skin.

Have you ever noticed that in some instances hyaluronic acid may be listed on an INCI (i.e.

online @ probeauty.co.za

AESTHETIC MEDICINE Cross linked and non-cross linked hyaluronic acid

As previously mentioned, hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring polysaccharide compound found in the epidermis, so basically it is like a molecule of sugar. Cosmetic scientists have learnt to chemically modify hyaluronic acid using bacterial fermentation. Hyaluronic acid in its raw form is non-cross linked and can very easily be broken down and metabolised in the body. Therefore, in order to make hyaluronic acid more durable, scientists are able to bind molecules of hyaluronic acid together, making the hyaluronic acid more durable, firmer, more water absorbent and longer lasting. Thus, hyaluronic acid in the cross linked form is the type that is used in medical aesthetic filler injectable treatments. The more cross linking that has taken place, the firmer the filler will be, so the medical practitioner will be required to select the appropriate filler for the correct treatment protocol.

SODIUM HYALURONATE is THE SALT FORM of hyaluronic acid and IS WATER SOLUBLE. It is this form of HYALURONIC ACID that is able to HOLD WATER. How do hyaluronic acid fillers work?

Just to recap, hyaluronic acid fillers are a gel form of cross-linked hyaluronic acid that will add volume to the dermal layer of the skin. The gel assists in holding the product in place where it is injected. It is the hyaluronic acid that is in the gel that draws moisture to the area to create the filler effect. Karolina Gabrowska from Pexels Fillers can be used to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, facial folds, and to create structure and volume to the face and lips. The effects of filler treatments are seen immediately and considered to be very safe due to the fact that hyaluronic acid is naturally occurring in the skin and is the main component. There are many different fillers on the market with unique characteristics, which would influence what area on the face they would be indicated for and how deep they should be injected. Fillers can last anything from six to 24 months. Thereafter the filler is naturally absorbed into the body. Additional injections would be required to maintain the result achieved and the desired effect. Hyaluronic acid has recently also been introduced to additional injectable treatments that don’t fall within the filler category to offer additional benefits and improvements to the skin’s elasticity and quality.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Threads with hyaluronic acid

With more and more patients enhancing and preserving their facial features with thread lifting, it was only a question of time before the benefits of hyaluronic acid were introduced into this type of treatment modality. APTOS, a brand leader in threads that is created by plastic surgeons, has enhanced their famous multi-directional thread, which is made up of P(LACL) – this stands for poly lactic/caprolactone. The caprolactone, once injected into the skin, acts as a delivery system for the lactic acid molecules that are used very effectively to stimulate fibroblast activity in the dermis. This, coupled with the coating of the thread with hyaluronic acid, further enhances collagen production and improved skin texture. Patients who have a thread lift will notice a gradual improvement in their skin’s tone and firmness. While their threads are in place, the body’s healing response will constantly be activated. The body is biologically programmed to react this way when it senses any foreign object present within the dermis. Fortunately, because the threads placed under the skin during a thread lift are so small, the patient will not feel any of this happening. Most people cannot feel their sutures at all once the skin has healed around them.

The new kid on the block

Enter the newest addition to the injectable stable – Profhilo®, which contains the highest concentrations of hyaluronic acid. The product is a bit like injectable skincare and is used specifically to counteract skin laxity. This treatment not only boosts and hydrates the skin but also can remodel sagging, ageing tissues. The most common areas include the face and neck, but décolletage, hands, arms and knees can also be treated for skin laxity. It’s important to note that this treatment is not a replacement for the injectables used to treat wrinkles and for dermal fillers, but should ideally be used in combination with these treatments. Profhilo’s function is to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, which improves the hydration and texture of the skin as well as the appearance of fine lines. The product is administered by injecting it into the upper layers of the skin using a very fine needle in specific predetermined points. The procedure is relatively painless and is very quick, taking only about 10 minutes with no downtime. Only five injection points are necessary on each side of the face to provide optimum results, while on the neck the product is administered over 10 injection points. Results are noticeable within 3-5 days after the treatment and 2 sessions are recommended, 4 weeks apart for maximum benefits.

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. Email karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

PRODUCT NEWS

Wear it well

Patricia Clarke Contouring Solutions has added a new range of garments to the existing Heat Maximizing range. The Luxe SWASH Mineral infused range is perfect for your active client. Mineral infused technology embedded in the material improves micro circulation and increases oxygen and nutrient delivery to the tissues. The range consists of leggings and capris. 011 793-2321 / 011 792-2641 / 083 631 0388 / 083 450 2167

Intense products

Matsimela’s beloved Intensive Hand & Nail Repair is now available in a convenient 100ml tube and still packed with keratin, pure baobab oil, myrrh extract and shea butter. The brand’s new Intense Hydration Body Wax is ideal for truly dry skin, being high in essential fatty acids and antioxidants to deeply penetrate into the dermal layers of the skin. 083 407 8280

In the market Our round-up of new products and treatments

New life

From Guinot, the Nouvelle Vie Cream is designed to attenuate first wrinkles and dehydration lines, boost the skin’s metabolism and enhance a radiant complexion. The Rejuvenating Action Hydravie Complex is plant-based and directly derived from beech buds, and contains peptide compounds, flavonoids, polyphenols and mineral salts. 011 305 1600

Brows go blonde

Big lift

The newest generation of the Babor HSR Lifting Anti-Aging range is formulated with a natural glucoside, extracted from the resurrection plant. This active ingredient slows down the formation of new wrinkles by fighting them directly at origin. Glucoside promotes water-binding capacities and boosts cell functions for rapid moisture replenishment. 011 467 0110

Now sporting new improved packaging, RefectoCil Blonde Brow helps create a perfectly harmonious look, when the head hair is dyed or bleached blonde. It can also be used to lighten the brows before tinting them. Blonde Brow should also be used when tinting grey, white or bristly eyebrows. It can be used to lighten eyebrows up to three shades. 082 5756 567 / 031 209 2548

online @ probeauty.co.za

PRODUCT NEWS

Strip sugar

Alexandria Professional has launched its first ever 100% natural sugar – the KiSS Waxing® Hair Removal System. Being water soluble, it will not stain any surface. The sugar is never too hot and is always gentle on skin. There is no cross contamination and no double dipping, with long lasting, smooth skin results. 011 238 7080

Back off Sun!

Heliocare® Ultra 90 Gel provides a very high level of SPF protection (UVA and UVB) and is enhanced with powerful antioxidants and DNA repair enzymes. This lightweight, rapidly absorbing gel texture is non-comedogenic and contains the Fernblock® patented technology of natural origin proven to act at all levels of photoprotection. 011 545 9300

Peeling pads

The botanically based Active Peel System from iS Clinical is a powerful yet gentle, fast-acting two-step treatment designed to resurface and polish the skin, while providing hydration, rejuvenation and antioxidant protection. Designed to use every other day, it features the proprietary botanical extremozyme technology and Copper Tripeptide-1. 086 117 8376

online @ probeauty.co.za

Oil that foams

CleanRefresh™ Foaming Oil Cleanser from Pevonia features an advanced, lipid-rich, exclusive formula. The perfect blend of natural foaming surfactants with skin-friendly oils combine with the soothing and protective benefits derived from arnica montana and green tea, the restorative and firming benefits from kombucha, and the deeply hydrating action of hyaluronic acid. 011 238 7080

NAIL FILE ISSUE 49

MARCH 2022

STEP BY STEPS

PANDA AND MARBLE WITH FOIL

PRODUCT BONANZA

NEW ON THE MARKET

When something really gels

Gel polish application Q&A

WELCOME

he gel polish market seems to have exploded over the past few years and has become a very popular service in salons, especially for those clients who like a gel-like finish on their nails, but who don’t necessarily want to go the hard gel or liquid & powder route. In this issue of NailFile, our Ask the Experts article features input from three top overseas nail professionals, as they respond to questions about maintaining gel polish service longevity, whether or not to use builder gels, and the dangers of DIY gel polish home kits. The latter is of course a very important issue and something that all nail techs should warn their clients about. On the subject of education, our Top Tech Talk article puts the spotlight on someone who is not only a top nail technician and the owner of an award-winning nail salon, but who is also the head of education for a major professional nail brand. She offers some interesting insight into how to create a top salon and about training and education in the industry. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Photo by Aryane Vilarim from Pexels

What’s INSIDE 45

Industry News Stay in the know

Ask the Experts All things gel polish

Step by Steps Dazzling duo

Product Hub

The latest releases

Top Tech Talk Tania Biddle

@probeautyexpo

@PROBEAUTYSA

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA

online @ probeauty.co.za

INDUSTRY NEWS

Standout nails at the BRIT Awards

Maya Jama (Instagram @mayajama)

Mimi Webb (Instagram @michelleclassnails)

Always one of the biggest events in London on the British awards calendar, the recent Brit Awards, an annual showcase of UK music, did not disappoint in terms of live performances, red carpet outfits and of course, nails. Singer-songwriter Mimi Webb sported a French manicure with black tips that dazzled with disco-like embellishments. The look was designed by Michelle Class. Also going the French route was rapper, singer and actress, Little Simz, but with thin, as opposed to solid, lines in a rich red. The iconic Adele opted for a simple nude-pink look on her extremely long, almond shaped nails – the perfect

backdrop for the enormous, tear-shaped diamond ring she wore on her engagement finger, sparking loads of speculation. More and more men seem to be sporting nail art on the red carpet – think Machine Gun Kelly, think Lil Nax X, think Ben Platt, among others. At the Brit Awards, it was the turn of record producer and DJ, 220 Kid, Olivia Rodrigo (Instagram @kimtreacynails) who had colourful flowers painted on his nails. Radio and TV presenter, Clara Amfo, opted for a minimalist, single small dark dot painted in the middle of her nails which had apricot French tips. American singer-songwriter, Olivia Rodrigo, rocked plain black squoval nails of a modest length, which looked good with her dark silver, sparkly gown. Also sporting a plain dark colour, but even shorter, was TV personality Laura Whitmore, whose nails complemented her black outfit. DJ and radio and TV presenter Maya Jama’s black, cut-out gown was so striking and daring that she needed only short pink-nude nails to go with it.

Harry Styles launches nail polish line Pop star and actor, Harry Styles, who found global fame as one of the members of the now defunct boy band, One Direction, has launched his own beauty brand, Pleasing, which includes a nail polish line with four shades. Styles has been regularly seen on red carpets sporting genderbending outfits and wearing nail polish. He said in a press release that when developing the Pleasing brand, he wanted to ensure the products were something he himself would use. “I didn’t want to make products to mask people, I wanted to highlight them and make them feel beautiful,” he stated. According to CNN Style, the nail polish line was inspired by pearls, which Styles frequently wears, calling it an ‘ode to the beauty found in a simple shell’. The white shade is called Perfect Pearl, the pale pink, Granny’s Pearls, the black nail polish with a navy sheen, Inky Pearl, and the clear top coat, Pearly Tops. The Pleasing Nail Polish formula is 12-Free, and each formula adheres to vegan, clean and cruelty-free principles. Other mail celebrities to have launched nail products include A$AP Rocky, Machine Gun Kelly and Lil Yachty.

online @ probeauty.co.za

The Pleasing nail polishes (image sourced from pleasing.com)

BUSINESS TIPS

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

Photo by Rodnae Productions from Pexels

Why should I use builder base gels in treatment under gel polish?

I get at least four or five emails per week about the longevity of gel polish manis and 98% of the time, it’s due to incorrect nail preparation. Nail prep is sadly often rushed and the importance of it forgotten. It’s not until nail techs are having issues with the gel polish peeling and chipping that they realise they are missing out the most important part in any service. Taking at least 10 minutes to do preparation will ensure any treatment you apply to the natural nail will adhere correctly. Equally important is taking time to apply the gel. Smooth, thin coats are better than quick, thick ones. If you’re rushing, you risk the chance of over-applying, which can create issues with under gel or rippling in the lamp. No-one wants to have to redo it, so take your time capping each layer and cleaning up any gel that may have touched the cuticle or skin before setting. This will help the gel to stay put and not lift from the plate. Finish the nail with a good shiny top coat. And lastly, wait for the gel to cool before adding nail oil. Applying the oil too soon when the gel is warm can sometimes diminish the shine from the finished nail.

Builder base gels have increased in popularity over the past couple of years due to it enhancing the longevity of gel polish and aiding clients in being able to grow their natural nails. It has given nail techs the opportunity to market this as an add-on service, generating more revenue. The majority of builder base gels have a built-in primer and can be used as a normal base gel under gel polish, as well as for building either overlay on natural nails, or extending them to salon length. The benefit of this is that the tech only needs to invest in one product, saving them money and time. The product can then be multi-purposed depending on the clients’ needs and the condition of their nails. When the client has very thin, weak nails, then multiple layers of the builder base gel can be used to add extra strength before application of gel polish colour. Builder base gels are typically a soak-off product but the more layers that are applied, then the longer the soak-off time, so it is usually advised to infill this rather than soak off every time. In my opinion, it is much kinder to the natural nails and surrounding skin then to soak off every two weeks. Using a builder base type gel underneath a gel-polish can also extend a gel manicure to around four weeks, and this gives most clients the longevity and value for money they’re looking for without any of the usual chips or breaks. Nail techs can charge for the application of this as an add-on service, but it typically doesn’t take much longer than a normal gel polish manicure, depending on skill level. However, I advise techs to seek out the proper training – it is paramount to know how to correctly apply and use the product to ensure a trouble-free service.

Tinu Bello is the head of education at Pure Nails and the owner of Totally Polished Nails & Beauty.

Hazel Dixon is an award-winning nail tech, the owner of Hazel Dixon Nail Artist Academy, and a Professional Beauty London Nail Competition judge.

How can I get my clients’ gel polish manis to last longer?

online @ probeauty.co.za

BUSINESS TIPS How can I warn clients about the dangers of DIY gel polish kits? Instructions are poor in these DIY gel polish kits, with little precautions included on the packaging and no warnings about avoiding skin contact. The lamps are often poor quality and will be unlikely to give a correct cure; just because the product appears cured, it is not necessarily thoroughly cured. DIY kits also don’t often have MSDS (material safety data sheets). When the user doesn’t understand the chemistry or the anatomy of the natural nail, how can they prep or remove without damage? Without this understanding, the user may also offer to carry out a treatment on their friends or family with good intentions, but if something goes wrong, they may find themselves with a claim against them and no insurance to cover themselves in case of such an event, as a professional should – and more than likely would – have. Many home users and even some so-called professionals are turning to third-party online retailers to purchase what they assume is a genuine but cheaper product. Professional, reputable brands will not list their products on third-party sites and therefore there is no guarantee of what is being purchased.

Photo by Filip Bunkens on Unsplash

Katie Barnes is the owner of Katie Barnes Training Academy in Warwickshire, as well as founder of the Katie Barnes Tool Range, and Professional Beauty UK’s Nail Professional of the Year 2018. *The above questions and answers are excerpts from an article written by Amanda Pauley for the Professional Beauty UK magazine.

STEP BY STEP

Dazzling designs These contrasting and intriguing nail art looks were created by Bia’janca Erasmus Hayes

Panda

Marble with transfer foil Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Prepare the nail base colour and draw your desired geometric lines with a fine liner brush and gel or ink.

Add some fine leaves and colour them in with your desired colour.

Add some lines for the bamboo design on the side of the nail using the same ink or gel.

Add some colour to your geometric design to make it pop out and outline it again to make sure the lines are nice and crisp. Finish off with a glossy top gel, and you are good to go.

Step 1

Buff and prepare the nail as normal adding your desired colour on the base. For the base, I used clear gel only. Then, apply a blooming base and put splashes of the colours you would like to marble on the desired areas. Now, using a brush, drag the colours around until you get the look you want and cure.

Step 2

Apply foil gel on desired areas of the design and cure. Then add the foil by pressing softly on the nail. Finish off with a glossy top coat.

Bia’janca Erasmus Hayes started doing nails a year ago. She works at Nadz Hope Nails in Brackenfell, Cape Town and has always dreamed of following in the footsteps of her sister, the award-winning Nadia Erasmus, who trained her. Bia’janca loves doing nails and art is her passion. She strives every day to make her clients and sister proud.

online @ probeauty.co.za

IN THE MARKET

Marvelous matte

The Super Matte Hybrid Top from Indigo Nails will ensure the ultimate matte look for up to five weeks. With a no fuss, no wipe application, it’s never been easier to create the perfect matte look. 071 271 8176

Going forward

Product Hub

LCN’s new trend, Heritage – the legacy, embodies a post-pandemic longing for freedom as well as glorious and carefree times. Society is ready for positive development based on the values that are important to us as a community. Heritage celebrates rights such as freedom of movement and travel, but also the opportunity to interact with people offline again. 010 593 3293

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails Glorious gel

Gelish Blooming Gel allows nail techs to create marble and watercolour looks in minutes. This product is easy to apply and LED cured to finish. There is no mess in application. This cruelty-free product has been designed for use with Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish colours and will transform full sets in minutes. 011 447 0659

Banging base coat

The Nailz Rubber Base is a base coat that is flexible and bends together with the nail. It has a thicker viscosity than that of a normal base coat gel polish and is designed to give extra strength to flaky, brittle, thin or splitting nails. It can level an uneven nail surface, ensuring a smooth gel polish application. 011 262 2451

At the apex

From Bio Sculpture, Apex Gel by Biogel is designed to provide supreme strength, with a firm viscosity for creative wet gel shaping. This innovative technology allows it to be applied as an upper arch strengthening layer on medium to hard nails, or as a strong support on long nails and extensions. 051 943 0377

online @ probeauty.co.za

Q&A

Top Tech Talk

NailFile chats to Tania Biddle about running an award-winning salon and about the importance of education in the industry

In 2020, Plush Nails & Beauty won the Professional Beauty Award for Best Nail Salon. What did this win mean for you?

It is still a ‘wow’ moment for me. Winning the Nail Salon of the Year Award is everything and more. It was a dream come true for me. Winning this award showed me that I can aim high, that I can work towards a goal and achieve what I always thought to be impossible. It is definitely a highlight of my career.

Why do you think your salon resonated with the judges?

We always aim to offer a service that ticks all the boxes. My team and I are dedicated to staying up to date with the latest trends in the industry and attend regular trainings and workshops. We offer quality treatments delivered with a smile and professionalism.

What made you want to open your own salon?

I think my genuine passion for the industry led me to open my salon, as I envisioned a space where I could be creative and do what I love.

Covid aside, what have been the biggest challenges you’ve faced in terms of running a salon? Always trying to find a way to stand out and gain a new client’s interest is a constant challenge. You need to be on top of everything at all times. Maintaining a fully booked diary, getting back to clients, managing stock, concentrating on the image of the brand and managing staff requires constant attention and dedication.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Q&A

How have you adapted your salon operations to deal with the Covid economy?

I am in a very fortunate position as most of my clients returned after the lockdown. The aftermath of Covid definitely had an effect on business growth, but we have maintained a fully booked diary with our regular clients.

When recruiting nail techs for your salon – what criteria do you look for? There are many, but what is important to me is someone who is friendly and professional and who shares the same passion that I do. Training and skill are very important, as is someone who is open to growth.

As someone who is head of education for a major professional nail brand, what skills would you say are most lacking in the South African industry?

With regards to the level of education, I would say uniformity, knowledge and experience. The industry is flooded with unskilled and, in some cases, untrained ‘nail technicians’. Being a professional nail technician requires continuous and ongoing training. You can never know enough and there is always room to improve and to better yourself and your skill. Staying up to date is one of the most important factors that is so often over looked.

It is apparent that some ‘nail techs’ learn their ‘skills’ totally via YouTube and TikTok. How should the industry go about reinforcing the need for professional training?

Although these types of platforms are great to further your skills and stay updated with trends, I believe that in-class professional training cannot be replaced and is a vital aspect to starting your career. The invaluable knowledge and technique that you will learn from an educator in a class will lay the foundation for the rest of your career as a nail technician.

How can the industry educate the public in this regard?

It’s up to professional nail technicians to educate clients, so that they will know to look for a qualified nail technician and find a salon that uses reputable and professional nail products.

You are head of education for Bio Sculpture. What made you want to become an educator? The idea of sharing my passion with other technicians fascinated me. I have a strong desire to teach but by teaching, I am also constantly learning.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Q&A Where did you train? What is it about nails that initially attracted you?

I have always been fascinated by the nail and beauty industry for as long as I can remember. If I think back to when I was a young girl, I would always try and convince my mom to buy me all different kinds of nail products and I would attempt to do the designs that I saw in magazines. After school, I studied cosmetology for two years and then decided to specialise in nail technology. This year I will celebrate 13 years since opening my salon.

Has your passion for nails actually intensified over the years?

Without a doubt it has intensified. I learn something new every day and I am constantly dedicated to improving my skill and technique and driving myself towards becoming a better nail technician. I can’t imagine doing anything else with my life and I never get bored. Each client is a new challenge and a clean canvas. I love that my job is social and that it has allowed me to build great relationships with my clients over the years. For me this is not just a job, it’s a dream.

I studied cosmetology at Face to Face for two years. In my third year, I studied make-up artistry for six months and then completed my nail training with Bio Sculpture. Although I had done other nail courses over the three years of studying, attending a Bio Sculpture course had always been my dream, so I saved up to do my training. Soon thereafter, I opened my salon, Plush Nails & Beauty, at the Bio Sculpture West Rand Depot. After about three years I became an educator for Bio Sculpture West Rand and then two years later, I was appointed as Bio Sculpture’s head of Education. I am extremely blessed and grateful to my parents who always supported me through my journey and offered constant encouragement and supported my wildest dreams and hopes.

When did you start becoming interested in nail art?

I have always been interested in nail art but feel that I have grown a lot within the last five years, challenging myself to create new designs.

I believe nail art is huge at your salon – what percentage of clients want nail art?

We definitely do a lot of nail art. The majority of our clients will have some sort of art, even if it’s just something simple and elegant on two nails. I find that the demand for nail art changes with seasons and different trends.

Is there a particular style of nail art that you most enjoy doing?

While I enjoy doing all styles of nail art, I do like to challenge myself to do something new. I love a classic and elegant look such as a nude or French ombre, and these are some of my most popular requests. I also enjoy doing abstract nail art. ‘Something glam’ is one of my favourite and most popular requests – a soft glitter blend that complements the colour and allows for a beautiful regrowth.

Please describe the most challenging nail art that a client has requested.

I can’t remember a particular instance but I have had a few over the years. If a client is wanting a specific art design, we ask that she send a photo in ahead of the appointment. This allows us to prepare for the nail art but also book out additional time if the design is very intricate.

online @ probeauty.co.za

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AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Be Inspired Be Motivated Be Business Focused The BIG Buzz Business Events

A BIG Buzz Business Event Bryanston Country Club Monday 28 March 2022

Be Inspired Be Motivated Be Business Focused

Wrinkles? Wrinkles Schminkles A Fun Name, Backed By Real Science.

A global leader in non-invasive, anti-aging wrinkle treatments, that work! Wrinkles Schminkles is a fun name, backed by real science. A global leader in noninvasive, anti-aging wrinkle treatments, that work! Our brand and product range focus on performance and results, and ensuring you see and feel the results on your own skin, as quickly as possible. Famous for our 100% Medical Grade Silicone Patches that smooth lines and wrinkles after a few hours use or overnight, we have continued to innovate with a full range of fast-acting skincare. Whether you’re wanting to target wrinkles and signs of aging on the cleavage, chest, eyes, forehead, mouth, neck or hands, we’ve got your skin covered (literally). What’s important to our founder, Gabrielle Requena and our values is how you feel after you’ve used our products. Wrinkles Schminkles gives you the confidence to age beautifully in a simple and non-invasive way. Why should skincare that is scientific and works have to be so serious? Wrinkles? Wrinkles Schminkles

Best Lasers We are the sole Sub-Saharan Africa distributor for Alma Lasers International which is a global developer, manufacturer, and provider of laser, light-based, radiofrequency and ultrasound devices for aesthetic and medical applications. At Best Lasers we believe that Quality is the Best business plan which is why we highlight & implement our client’s Aesthetic technology investments. We expose our clients to the philosophy of being laser specialists & enhance their understanding of the science & technology behind aesthetics. To ensure the continuation of success we support our clients with clinical training, technical support, sales and marketing support. We have many loyal clients who have been with us for many years which serves as a testimony to our exceptional post-purchase assistance and service. We are proud to be the distributors of Alma Lasers International, a global innovator of laser, light-based, radio-frequency and ultrasound solutions for the aesthetic and surgical markets. Alma Lasers has been at the forefront of multi-technology systems, revolutionizing existing treatment methods and working to serve the varied and growing needs of both patients and practitioners around the world. With offices, R&D and manufacturing facilities on three continents and distributors around the world, Alma’s mission is to provide modular, cost-effective and high-performance systems based on the very latest clinical research and cutting-edge technology. We enable practitioners to offer safe, effective and profitable aesthetic and surgical treatments to their patients, while allowing patients to benefit from the capabilities of state-of-the-art, clinically proven technologies and methods. At Best Lasers, we offer solutions to nearly any aesthetic imperfection with our outstanding devices. From anti-ageing to hair removal and skin tightening to stress urinary incontinence, Best Lasers has got a device for your clinic/practice. Give us a call or visit our offices for the best medical aesthetic devices that will take your salon/clinic/practice to higher heights.

So much happening in 2022 Bio Sculpture has started 2022 off with a bang! We have many new and exciting products that have been launched as well as upcoming launches planned for this year, so join us at one of the Professional Beauty expos and our Bio Expo for more information. We will be at all of Professional Beauty’s conferences this year (JHB, DBN, PE, CPT and BFN) come visit our stand to see what’s new, chat to one of our educators, find out about our training deals and much more. You can also join us at our very own Bio Sculpture Expo on the 9th of May at Montecasino. Purchase your ticket now to see our latest launches, special guest talks and amazing product specials! BIO SCULPTURE is an award winning nail product that consists of 5 sub-brands. We pride ourselves in our professionalism and have award winning nail technicians worldwide. Our purpose is to provide quality products and professional training, empowering nail technicians to offer healthy and fashionable nail care systems, guided by an ethical business approach. Our 5 Sub Brands: * BIOGEL is the original, professional, soak-off, easy wear nail gel system in a jar. With a 5-star Safety Rating boasting natural nail health, while beautifully enhancing and transforming any nail. A scientifically formulated pure gel range which varies from flexible to solid. BIOGEL is suitable for every nail type and is excellent for extending & strengthening nails. * EVO gel polish is quick and easy to apply. With excellent adhesive properties, EVO is an extremely durable, long-lasting, high shine gel overlay. This Gel Polish system in a bottle consists of Base Gels, Colours and Top Coat. * ETHOS is the Nail Care range for natural nails by BIO SCULPTURE, pledged to Nail HEALTH. The unique property of the key natural ingredient in each individual treatment is discretely displayed on its bottle. Ideal for professional salon use and home care. * GEMINI -representing “twins”- is Bio Sculpture’s Nourishing Nail Polish which matches BIOGEL colours. 14ml of GEMINI colour is brilliantly displayed in the recognisable square bottle. GEMINI contains hardening plant extract agents derived from Aloe Vera, Lemon and Ginseng. It is fast drying, long lasting and will add strength to the nail. Gemini has a UV filter and is Styrene Free. * BI-OLYGEL is a UV gel, strengthened with acrylic paste to bring out the best properties of both gel and acrylic systems, creating a firm hard gel that is easy and quick to apply.

We hope to see you soon! 6

online @ probeauty.co.za

Six dreamlike shades inspired by the beauty of elements from nature’s earliest origin

Alinta

This trendy pastel yellow is youthful and joyous but soft - as the first glimpse of an early morning sunrise

Kirra

Meaning ‘dancing leaf’, Kirra is a fresh, light and very lively soft-hued teal colour

Aria

A marble-grey melody. This earthy neutral is sure to go with anything and everything this season

Bindi

A gorgeous light-toned lavender colour, fluttering ancient femininity and solidity

Rellie-Rose

This rose-pink pastel speaks of beauty and strength. Soft-toned, but sure to make a statement

online @ probeauty.co.za

Lowanna

Like the nature of any graceful woman, this pinkish-silver Evo Iron Lady has many metallic sides and shades to be discovered

The Hitech Group Hitech Lasers, founded in 1974 by Wicus Olivier (Snr) and driven by his passion to improve the delivery of healthcare – has become South Africa’s leading expert in light-based equipment, Aesthetic, Surgical, Ophthalmic and Research Lasers. Wicus Olivier (Jnr) as current Managing Director endorses the values instilled in the company for the past 48 years, providing systems that are innovative, ground-breaking, award-winning, excellent and outstanding. We are proud of our unrivalled reputation for quality, integrity, service and reliability. DEKA, an Italian manufacturer of a wide range of light-based systems, has a strong global presence. The Hitech Group as DEKA’s sole distributor in South Africa and Sub-Saharan Africa for their Aesthetic and Medical systems, gives us the capability to be well positioned to meet the needs of the market we serve. Hitech Lasers offers treatment solutions, not only to Aesthetic Salon owners but also to Dermatology, Plastic Surgery and Medical Aesthetic Practitioners. We provide sales, training and support for all the systems we sell. As a company we remain determined to reach our goal to improve the welfare and quality of life of clients and patients. We will introduce 2 DEKA systems at the Professional Beauty Conference and Expo: ONDA Plus Coolwaves™ - Non-surgical Body Sculpting System. MOTUS AY - The Pain-free Alexandrite and Nd:YAG laser platform that can treat all skin types.

ONDA

A single system, brought to you by DEKA, Italy, is equipped with three focussed handpieces and the non-invasive, painless Onda Coolwaves® patented microwaves technology. It addresses sagging skin, cellulite, localized fat all over the body, skin toning and body sculpting. Onda Coolwaves® action is deep and targeted, without damaging nearby skin. Microwaves at 2.45GHz are absorbed particularly by adipose cells. Coolwaves® are able to bypass the uppermost layers of skin tissue and deliver energy directly to the subcutaneous fat cells, increasing fat cell death. This helps to dramatically reduce heating of the surface tissue. With a completely safe and controlled Onda Plus treatment there is no downtime, no swelling, no redness and no itching. Nothing will stop your patient from carrying on with their day.

MOTUS AY

DEKA’s Motus AY is the world’s first FDA approved Alexandrite (755nm) and Nd:YAG (1064nm) laser, covering all applications from painless hair removal to non-ablative photo rejuvenation, to vascular and pigmented lesion treatments. The Alexandrite 755nm can treat all hair and skin types, including the more challenging finer and lighter hair types, achieving results not known in this segment of the aesthetic market. The Moveo Handpiece technology, using a 20mm integrated sapphire contact cooling tip, differentiates it from other lasers by allowing light and dark skin tones to benefit from the painless and effective treatments of the Alexandrite wavelength. FDA approved for all skin types (Fitzpatrick I – VI), including tanned skin! The advantages of the Motus AY multi-platform doesn’t stop with hair removal. As a double source system, it broadens the range of possible treatments. With the additional Nd:YAG 1064nm wavelength, you can penetrate deep into the skin for effective vascular treatments on the face and legs. DEKA’s Motus AY platform allows you to expand your customer base with highly advanced and innovative technology. Visit Hitech Lasers to see this technology for yourself.

The Hitech Group where proven EXCELLENCE, SAFETY, VERSATILITY, REAL RESULTS and PROFITABILITY of their Laser, IPL and RF systems

ONDA PLUS with COOLWAVES™

unite

Experience Aesthetic Laser systems taking aesthetic procedures to a new dimension.

Revolutionizes Body Contouring, Cellulite & Skin Tightening. Three handpieces for complete body treatment.

AGAIN

SCHWARZY

Alexandrite & Nd:YAG. Moveo technology. 30mm Handpiece. Painless Hair Removal ALL skin & hair types. Vascular & Pigmentation.

Eﬀortless Fat Reduction through Neuromuscular Stimulation. Localized fat reduction, toning and volumizing the muscles.

MOTUS AY

REDTOUCH

Alexandrite & Nd:YAG. Moveo technology. Painless Hair Removal ALL skin & hair types. Vascular & Pigmentation.

Speciﬁc Wavelength (675nm) acting on Collagen. Non-Ablative Photorejuvenation with minimal downtime.

MOTUS AX

SMARTXIDE PUNTO

Alexandrite 755nm. Moveo Technology. Painless Laser Hair Removal on ALL Skin Types & Pigmented Lesions.

Fractional CO2 with Coolpeel® for unique downtime control. Scar Treatment, Photorejuvenation, Periocular Lifting and more.

SMARTXIDE TOUCH / DOT®

LUXEA Multifunctional Platform with a choice of 12 handpieces. Laser (YAG & Diode), Pulsed Light and Radiofrequency for endless treatment options.

Fractional CO2 and Radiofrequency combined action for total Skin Resurfacing. Vaginal Rejuvenation – Monalisa Touch.

DENAVE

SMARTPICO

True 585nm wavelength Solid State Laser, Dye Laser, Nd:YAG, Pulsed Light and RightLightTM. Compact and transportable. Treatment of Rosacea and Vascular Lesions.

Pico- and Nanosecond Emissions in 2 wavelengths. Tattoo Removal, Scar Treatment and Photorejuvenation.

Contact: The Hitech Group aesthe cs@hitechlasers.co.za Tel: +27 12 349 1250 +27 82 575 3755 www.hitechlasers.co.za Facebook: HitechGroupSA

InLei® is here for you! FINALLY, an innovative-revolutionary product in South Africa! A product that WORKS! As a beauty industry leader, it is important to be able to offer your clients a solution that works best for them, and sometimes that solution does not entail extensions or tattooing, cue-in Lash Lifting (InLei® Lash Filler) and Brow Lamination (InLei® Brow Bomber). The Lash Lifting technique is used to perm natural lashes to create a beautiful, curled effect that lasts up to 6-8 weeks. This lash treatment has been gaining popularity in the beauty industry. It is the perfect alternative to lash extensions as the treatment takes half the amount of time, lasts longer and is more cost-effective. Entirely made in Italy, this revolutionary treatment is not like your usual lash lift. It gives natural lashes a soft and greater silkiness and nourishes the hair structure. The only treatment in the world clinically proven to thicken the hair, increasing thickness by an average of 24% in just three sessions. A Brow lamination/Brow Bomber treatment can offer your clients full, fluffy, yet uniform brows that everyone wants to achieve. This is the ultimate solution for brows that are asymmetrical or unruly and hard to tame. An incredible, revolutionary treatment that has further expanded the vision of eyebrow shaping! InLei® Brow Bomber is a professional eyebrow reshaping treatment that aims to nourish the hair with maximum nutritional capacity, unlike other Brow Lamination products. InLei® Brow Bomber is a treatment based on a delicate perming solution, dyeing and hair nourishment. InLei® Lash Filler Treatment • Scientifically proven to penetrate and permanently thicken the natural hair by 24% • Influences hair growth by improving hair structure • Nourishes and thickens damaged, thin, and weak eyelashes • It gives a long-lasting lifting effect to natural eyelashes • A great alternative to eyelash extensions • No mascara is needed! Who is this treatment for? • Lifting eyelashes that grow straight or downwards • Disordered or criss-cross natural lashes • Dry and brittle natural eyelashes that need nourishing • Thin eyelashes to improve thickness • Long and ridged eyelashes to become more manageable and softer • Alternative to eyelash extensions InLei® Brow Bomber A treatment to transform eyebrows InLei® Brow Bomber professionally nourishes the hair while delivering soft, silky, and obedient eyebrows. The treatment is also known as brow lamination or brow lift. InLei® products are designed with hair health in mind. • Gentle, non-drying, and non-damaging • Influences hair growth by improving hair structure • Nourishes and moisturizes damaged, thin, and weak eyebrows • It gives a long-lasting taming effect to bushy eyebrows Only the highest quality/grade of ingredients are used in every product. Brow Bomber nourishes the hair and makes brow hair visibly fuller. It has many professional-grade ingredients, like macadamia oil to restructure the hair without weighing it down, marigold flower extract to soothe inflamed skin, and argan oil to restore dry hair. In terms of brow lamination, Brow Bomber takes it to the next level.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Lash

Brow

FILLER®

BOMBER

Introducing the Lash & Brow

Revolution in South Africa!

For more information: Email: info@inlei.co.za WhatsApp: +27 (83) 445-4057 Or visit: www.inlei.co.za

The ENDYBLEPH: Ultimate, non-surgical – eye lift delivers outstanding , eye opening results using a combination of two clinically – proven Endymed treatments : Skin Tightening & Lifting with Skin resurfacing & tightening. Aesthetic treatments are trending more towards non-invasive solutions as a safer and more convenient alternative, and patients dealing with sagging skin and wrinkles are looking for effective, consistent, and fast treatments with no downtime. ENDYMED’s facial tightening treatments provide effective collagen remodelling, rebuilding the collagen building blocks in the skin, and are suitable for all facial areas - cheeks, forehead, EYES, mouth, and jawline. FYI we can treat the whole body. The perfect non-surgical eyelift solution. The periorbital area is one of the first areas to show the signs of ageing; laxity, fine lines, and wrinkles. Treatment options are limited, due to the delicate nature of the skin in this area and safety concerns related to proximity to the eyeball. Blepharoplasty, whilst still being the one of the most common cosmetic surgical procedures, is not an option for many patients due to cost, risks associated with the general anaesthesia, risks of scarring, and the post-operative recovery period. Non-surgical options such as botulinum toxin and dermal fillers can be effective in the right hands. Recently I had the privilege of using a one-of-a-kind RF, a unique RF in my case, EndyMed 3DEEP to carry out a non-surgical eyelift. With promising results and a high safety profile this procedure has been termed the ‘EndyBleph’. RF has been found to be effective in the safe delivery of energy into the skin, independent of skin colour. Completely safe on all Fitzpatrick skin types- how amazing- it’s not chromophore dependant like light-based devices. Endymed Skin Tightening is a revolutionary new radio frequency treatment designed to penetrate deep into the skin to naturally stimulate collagen and elastin production for a significantly smoother and tighter appearance. The Endybleph is a combination of both Radiofrequency and Fractional Radiofrequency. Radiofrequency safely and effectively delivers energy to the skin which causes a gentle build-up of heat. This induces an immediate contraction of collagen (an ‘instant lift’) and stimulates natural wound healing, resulting in formation of new collagen. Radiofrequency leads to improvements in the skin structure and tightening of lax and sagging skin. Fractional Radiofrequency can be implemented for skin resurfacing. The treatment allows safe and effective treatment of the delicate eye area, reducing eye bags and tightening and lifting the upper eyelid. There is minimal downtime and discomfort involved with this treatment. It penetrates 3 times deeper into our skin, it’s a lot more controlled & focused heat than any other mono polar or bipolar RF. Okay, just quick break down: Rf has positive and negative poles, that always follow the path of least resistance; all that it wants to do is close the current. When positive & negative currents flow up & down, they create friction producing heat. This controlled heat is what we are looking to produce in the skin. If we have a temperature of 40degrees on the epidermis, we have a temperature of about 50degrees in the dermis and that’s our active part of the skin where all the collagen and elastin degenerated. When we reach the right temperature over a specific amount of time, we cause fibroblast activity. Instant – shrinking of collagen fibres. Long-term stimulating new collagen fibres. More about the treatment: • Combines skin tightening & FSR procedures in a single treatment. BEST OF BOTH WORLDS. • I fine applicator is for tightening & contouring & FSR applicator is for resurfacing & deep volume metric heating. • Course of 4 treatments, 4 weeks apart depend on the client’s concern & condition of skin. • Short steps : 1.countouring & lifting with the I Fine 2. Numbing foe 30min 3. Resurfacing with FSR. • Ideal for patients with less severe/early photo-ageing damage or those who want to avoid or are not suitable for surgery. Significant improvements can be made to both the delicate under eye area and the upper eyelid, giving a lifting and tightening effect that previously, could only be achieved with surgery. The Endybleph is becoming the number one, favourite non-surgical solution for improving lines and wrinkles, tightening the under-eye area and elevating the brow, by stimulating new collagen and helping to reverse the signs of ageing. A course of 4 treatments are recommended, one treatment a month, over a 4 month period. The treatment is comfortable and offers minimal downtime. Patient Comfort Completely safe and comfortable treatments with clinically proven consistent results that are suitable for all skin types with very little down time Personalized Treatments Real time skin impedance monitoring provides optimal energy delivery to the treatment target area by making continuous adjustments based on tissue impedance for a truly personalized treatment experience. Not everyone can do the treatment due to certain contra-indications to remember. • Subjects with implanted pacemakers and defibrillators, arrhythmias, or any other known heart disorders • Subjects with any implantable metal device in the treatment area • Subjects on any medication that would affect the characteristics of the skin (medical or hormonal), such as Accutane within the past month • Subjects who have any form of suspicious lesion on the treatment area. • Pregnant or lactating subjects • Subjects with any cutaneous inflammation or skin disease in the treatment area We at Radiant Healthcare is proud to be the sole distributor of Endymed in South Africa and are ready to answer any question you have. Farica Engelbrecht. Radiant healthcare,Clinical trainer.

online @ probeauty.co.za

RefectoCil: Industry experts in lash and brow tinting and styling The RefectoCil brand is synonymous with professional eyebrow and eyelash tinting products and has been trusted worldwide for over 90 years. Originating in Vienna, Austria, the lash and brow tints were developed in 1930 by Viennese hairdresser, Josef Gschwentner. He was dissatisfied with what was available on the market and decided to create his own hair dyes launching the first professional eyebrow and eyelash dye, RefectoCil. The RefectoCil product range has since grown substantially and is now sold in 65 countries worldwide. The team at RefectoCil are innovative and update their product offerings in line with international trends. This has led to an impressive, ever-expanding range of products and treatments. The RefectoCil brand now boasts a comprehensive range of 8 colours and a blonde brow bleach to perfect every look and provide each client with their own personalised treatment. The colour tints last up to 6 weeks providing a natural, smudge-proof, and waterproof result. In addition, the RefectoCil Brow Highlighter and the Brow Liner, available in 3 shades, can be used to enhance the total look. The professional RefectoCil Eyelash Lift and Eyelash Curl treatment kits are a popular addition to the range to enable these services to be offered in salons along with the latest Brow Lift treatment – a first of its kind for S.A. The growing movement towards clean beauty and veganism led to the development of the RefectoCil Intense Brows Range, which is to be launched in South Africa later this year. These intense eyelash and eyebrow tints are based on plant extracts that is 100% natural and is especially suitable for those with sensitive skin. Available in 3 colour shades: Black, Dark Brown and Medium Brown with a unique 2-Step Application process. RefectoCil have embraced a holistic approach to each client’s beauty needs and recently created a line of aftercare products that can be used at home to further enhance customer’s lash and brow needs. The RefectoCil Lash & Brow Booster Serum, Eye Care Pads, Styling Gel, Care Balm and Micellar Eye Makeup Remover are all products that can be purchased from a salon and used at home. In line with their approach to keeping up to date with the latest product offerings, RefectoCil are equally involved and committed to educating and training therapists in the latest treatments, using the RefectoCil branded application tools. These include: the Lash Lifter, the Browista Palette, The Browista Tool Kit, Mini Application Dishes, Silicone Pads, Tweezers and the new Brow Mapper. Thanks to the professionals at RefectoCil – the possibilities are endless! Follow us on social media @ refectocilsa and for more information on the RefectoCil range and distributors, visit www.refectocil. co.za.

RefectoCil’s full range is everything your eyes will ever need.

Want to find out more? info@refectocil.co.za | www.refectocil.co.za

Taking care of curly hair NaturallyE is a South African company founded in 2021 and owned by Nieshell Watson, Her niece Tessa, later joined her on this powerful journey. The E stands for Ester, Mrs. Watson’s grandmother, the woman she looked up to. Ester was a strong black woman who believed in growing her vegetables and in natural beauty. It is only fitting that this brand is part of the first line of products that will be part of this expanding organization. Curly hair was considered unprofessional and messy, but the Rëzo brand will break the boundaries and do the opposite, as this all-natural product will bring color and shine back to the hair of natural women. Natural-haired women will no longer fear their hair texture but instead embrace it. The Rëzo brand will help them achieve this goal. The Rëzo brand was founded in 2018 by New York-based master stylist, educator, and world-renowned curl expert Nubia Suarez. Rëzo is a comprehensive hair care brand designed to empower the curl-loving community by celebrating textured hair and promoting healthy hair habits. In Spanish, the word “rizo” means “curl” and the word “Rëzo” means “I pray.” Rëzo’s mission is to encourage women and men to embrace their natural curls, which represent identity and self-confidence, by providing the community with the tools needed to care for and promote them through expert knowledge and product expertise. Currently, there are six Rëzo brand products, namely Curl Control Shampoo and Conditioner, Curl Define Gel, an Anti-Friz Towel, and a Silicone Diffuser that fits all blow dryers. Rëzo’s four-step process of shampoo, conditioner, gel, and serum uses a plant-based, silicone-free ingredient that promotes healthy hair and hair growth. Scientific experiments show that the outer layer of the hair, the cuticle, determines how well you retain color and moisture. Curly hair can have either high or low porosity, regardless of its texture. If your regimen has left your curly locks dull and tangled, try treating your locks with a protein treatment to trap dirt, debris, and dead cells before they penetrate the hair strands, preventing color fade and dryness. Curls need to be nourished. This means using a moisturizing conditioner, applying it to your curls from the inside out, and being careful not to over-comb your hair. Cutting curly hair should not be much of a hassle, and thanks to the innovative Rëzo Cut, you will not have to worry about your curls moving around for days. The technique collapses the curly roots and straightens them on its own. This will give you remarkable volume and bounce in no time. With the increasing use of AI, machines are getting smarter. Rëzo Lites is a variation of the Rëzo Cut method and emphasizes color by diffusion. Rëzo is a new haircare line with products that are silicone and sulfate-free, vegan, and enriched with plant-based ingredients. The newest hair academy in LA has opened to teach stylists with curly hair. The Rëzo Academy in Los Angeles was created to teach professionals Nubia Rëzo’s new technique for curly hair. Whether it is curly hair or any other hair type, there can be problems and complications. Nubia Rëzo has developed a simple solution to these problems, making it easier to manage not only curly hair but also all other hair types. The founder of Rëzo Hair Care, Nubia Rëzo, built her company by understanding, educating, and caring for all types of curls. Rëzo Haircare has become a one-stop-shop for holistic care.

online @ probeauty.co.za

IN AFRICA

BY NATURALLYE

BENEFITS Rëzo Hair Care range defines your curls and leaves them smooth, soft and beautiful

100% VEGAN

Original, classic, comprehensive

WHERE WE STARTED Spa and Salon Solutions was established in 1996 with a focus on the import, manufacture and distribution of premium professional products, machinery and equipment into the South African beauty and medical aesthetic markets. Just over twenty years later, the company is a well-established and respected specialist supplier, locally and fast gaining a reputation in the spa and salon sector abroad – largely due to the development and growth of the range of hand, foot and body care products and professional equipment, Milk Solutions. MILK SOLUTIONS Milk Solutions was first introduced to South African spas and salons in 2001 as a line of four core professional pedicure products. Designed and developed locally, with the goal of providing beauty business owners with international quality at more affordable prices, commitment to this initial intent has been central to the brand’s success and remains at the heart of the Milk Solutions proposition. Today, Milk Solutions has grown into one of the most comprehensive ranges of results-driven in-salon and at-home hand, foot and body treatments available on the South African market. A portfolio of 29 paraben-free products, presented in four ranges - Milk and Honey, Garden, Fruit and Professional - deliver real improvement and visible results. Combining the highest-quality traditional and non-traditional ingredients, scientific technology and nature’s chemistry, each highly-specialised product works hand in hand with the rest, enabling practitioners to customise treatments and personalise product mixes to actively address the variety of skin conditions and nail concerns that women of different ages, ethnicities and lifestyles experience in today’s urban, “working girl” environment. This holistic offering benefits beauty business owners as much as it does their clients, particularly when it comes to consistency, convenience and cost of their services. Milk Solutions packaging has a professional look and feel to align with international beauty trends and to give the brand better shelf impact as the growth strategy continues to actively target the consumer retail segment. Focus has also been on infiltrating key African markets including Namibia, Zambia and Kenya as well as Europe. All products have completed a rigorous EU certification process and the brand continues to be successfully distributed to salons and retail outlets throughout the UK.

Hey Honey! Pass the Milk! Milk & Honey our original, classic and comprehensive range of skincare treatments for the hands, feet and body.

www.milksolutionsbeauty.com

NOT YOUR ORDINARY SUPPLIER….. In fact we don’t refer to ourselves as suppliers, we are your BRAND AND BUSINESS PARTNERS! Suppliers sell you product we sell you solutions, ideas and inspiration! The Spa Consultants offer a full one stop solution to your spa, salon or aesthetic clinic needs. Starting with concept, design and building of your space with over 40 magnificents projects completed to date and another 2 show stoppers being built in South Africa and a unique rain forest spa project in India! We are proud to be chosen as the Spa Operations Officers for the Spa group, so watch this space. Our business systems are ground breaking and truly life changing for business owners. We move in and literally TRANSFORM your business. This is a guarantee Spa Professionals Guild looks after business owners and managers continuous professional development with an online platform connecting professionals from around the world to share best practices and have access to updated templates, tools and SOP’s to simply make your business more efficient and profitable. We have over 100 members from 21 countries so join us and watch your business knowledge and systems literally transform. SIX AESTHETIX is a revolutionary solution for Aesthetic Clinics and Doctors who specialize in anti ageing and aesthetic treatments. we have the most advanced skin peeling systems that can be used to treat pigmentation on dark skins which is really a first! We have the only Scar Repair Cream to have 6 active ingredients working together and shows results in as little as a few weeks. We have a range of devices and equipment that is state of the art technology with quick return on investments and jaw dropping results. Our latest technology is RF needling using 81 gold plated pins to needle the skin whilst delivering Radio Frequency energy into the deeper layers of the skin for an instant tightening and lifting effect. So now you have combination of collagen boosting and non surgical skin tightening SIX SKINCARE delivers memorable skincare experiences! Yes, we don’t do facials, we do EXPERIENCES with instant results. And at the same time offering the industry the highest margins available so you make real money on your skincare. 40% is just not good enough anymore and we are committed to helping you grow and make money. Spalicious is an Award Winning hands, feet and body brand! We treat bodies the same way we treat faces, so once again not an ordinary product but a results driven sensorial experience is what we deliver with this magnificent brand. Whats coming up next???? We are so excited to announce that we will finally be launching our all natural baby and toddler range as well as a pregnancy range with some beautiful treatments for that special time in a womans life. Watch this space we are almost there! We would love to connect with you and lets see how we can help each other grow and evolve, so contact us and lets meet. 011 312-7840 marisa@thespaconsultants.com anna@thespaconsultants.com karen@thespaconsultants.com