Professional Beauty SA October 2021

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

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ROBUST RETAIL

Transformational selling

October | probeauty.co.za

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A CLINICAL MULTI FUNCTIONING WEIGHT MANAGEMENT APPROACH

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CONTENTS

IN THIS ISSUE Regulars 9

Industry news

Local and international news

44

In the market

Latest product launches

Spa Focus

Interview 26

32

Talking to…Sandy Fuhr Co-founder of the World Spa Organisation

New haven of holistic health opens in KZN Midlands Healing Earth Spa at Brahman Hills

Features 22

16

All your questions answered

18

Tips to achieve workplace wellness

Symphonique Infusion arrives in SA

38

Business Ask the Experts

Treatment review

The ethical side of beauty Clean cosmetics

42

Scrub-A-Dub-Dub

Body exfoliating products

Shaping a corporate culture

Proactive versus reactive

Aesthetic Medicine

24

Pico Perfect

23

Shifting the industry mindset

People want to buy – so sell to them

Transformational selling

36

Energy transference – is this really a ‘thing’ An intangible dynamic

45

Trending new laser technology

Nails 47

NailFile Issue 46

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#CelebrateBeautifully

celebrate BEAUTIFULLY DISCOVER THE HOLIDAY GIFTING COLLECTION

It’s time to celebrate beautifully with Environ’s most comprehensive Holiday Gifting Collection ever. Offer your clients the latest product innovations, best sellers, free gifts and savings, wrapped up and ready to gift or experience the joy of beautiful, healthy-looking skin.

Now available to order.

Contact Environ Distribution South Africa 011 262 0264 | susanne@environdist.co.za

WELCOME

Cover photo: Shutterstock

With the number of COVID-19 infections on the decrease and the number of vaccinations steadily on the rise, there is a tentative mood of optimism in the country. This is coupled with the warmer weather, which seems to have imparted something of a holiday mood among people, even though we are still a few months away from the holiday season. Clearly we are all wanting to be out and about and hopefully this will translate into more business for salons and spas.

Retail is always a bit of a thorny issue as owners inevitably want to sell more of it to generate more profit, whereas the majority of therapists dread trying to make sales as they are not sales people.

In this issue we include an intriguing article by a sales expert with lots of experience in the industry, who delves deep into the psychology of buying and selling. Another fascinating article looks at how clients are directly affected by the energy of the therapists who are performing their treatment.

We also highlight the trending new movement of clean beauty, which are skincare products formulated with ingredients that are not harmful to one’s health, to the environment or to animals.

Publisher Mark Moloney mark@probeauty.co.za Managing Director Yolanda Knott 011 781 5970 yolanda@probeauty.co.za Philip Woods Commercial Director 084 759 2024 phil@probeauty.co.za Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 083 411 8512 joanna@probeauty.co.za Marketing Manager Stacey Platt stacey@tetradeevents.com Sales Executive Ruth Baldwin 072 897 6752 ruth@professionalbeauty.org.za Operations Executive Obey Dube obey@probeauty.co.za

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Design Saveer Sugreem

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970

@probeautyexpo

@PROBEAUTYSA

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com, www.pixabay.com and www.unsplash.com

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INDUSTRY NEWS

Top speakers to convene at Professional Beauty JHB event Sales expert Kerry Viljoen will join sustainability guru Charne le Roux and Twincare International CEO, Stav Dimitriadis, in the speaker line-up at the Professional Beauty Conference & Buyers Forum on Monday, 25 October at the Bryanston Country Club.

Other speakers include beauty professional Diana van Sittert, social media consultant, Sally Harvey, and spa consultant, Marisa Dimitriadis, with other speakers to be announced shortly.

Topics are: Sales and retailing; Should you take a deposit on booking? Apply small changes for BIG financial gain; Make your salon as energy efficient as possible; Marketing tips – how effective is social media?

Spruce up the salon on a budget; and Client loyalty. The conference will conclude with an open discussion where delegates will be given a chance to talk about their challenges.

Running alongside the conference will be a tabletop exhibition where delegates will be able to find out about some of the latest products and systems from top beauty and aesthetics suppliers. Exhibitors include: Access Consciousness; Astra Health Systems; Best Lasers; Bio Sculpture; BTL Medical; Dandelion Distribution; EMSA Distribution/Lime Light; Gail Minnot/Gemco Distributors/ Eyenvy; Gina at Work; Hitech Group; Indulgence Spa Products; Leonelda Products; My Abby Range; Radiant Healthcare; Shamar International/ Lipfinity; Stretch Innovation (Pty) Ltd; and The Spa Consultants.

All COVID-19 safety protocols will be strictly adhered to, with masks worn at all times and social distancing enforced.

To find out more and to book your place click here https://www.probeauty.co.za/copy-of-conference-andexpo

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Photo by Najam Namdar on

Global market for men’s grooming products set to boom over next decade Revenue from the sales of men’s grooming products across the world will nearly double by 2031, from the current value of US$ 55.5 billion.

This is according to a study by Persistence Market Research, which predicts that the global market should grow by 6.4% during this year alone.

From 2016 to 2020, use of men’s grooming products increased at around 3.5% CAGR (Compound Annual Growth Rate), when developed countries such as the USA, Canada, Germany, and the UK held significant share in the global market. Overall, sales of men’s grooming products are projected to increase at a healthy CAGR of 8% over the next 10 years.

Persistence Market Research points out that various companies are focusing on providing unique personal care products that have a value proposition for the male grooming market. Products in this sector encompass skin care, hair care and shaving care.

Due to increased consumer knowledge of the harmful effects of chemical compounds commonly used in grooming items, such as shaving creams, demand for natural, clean-label and organic products has increased in the men’s grooming products industry. Natural grooming products are increasingly preferred by males over chemical-based grooming products. Over the last few years, this has resulted in an increase in demand for grooming products that are safe, natural, organic and cruelty-free.

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INDUSTRY NEWS Venus Concept Africa undergoes name The company formerly known as Venus Concept Africa has successfully transitioned to become an autonomous distributor, Astra Health Systems (Pty) Ltd. Says Gary Price, owner and director of Astra Health Systems: “Due to the pandemic, our industry has had to withstand the worst possible calamity imaginable – blanket closure of businesses, loss of employment and, on a personal level, loss of life and loved ones. Yet, out of this was born a full-scale innovative pivot and with that, a clear signal that this industry is strong and intent on surviving.

“Not a lot was said about the supporting acts in this drama, namely suppliers of products and technology. It so happened that for Venus Concept, the onset of the pandemic coincided with the completion of a major merger and large-scale re-direct to robotics and hair restoration in their major markets in the USA, UK and Europe, while also expanding their already popular energy-based device range. This enabled

partners in countries with smaller markets to negotiate a new working partnership.

“The name change was an exciting opportunity for us to re-position the company after six and a half years, and to sharpen our device portfolio. We elected to focus on the proven top sellers, namely Venus Viva, Venus Versa and Venus Legacy. Adding to this, I am very happy to announce the inclusion of the long-awaited Venus Fiore and Venus Heal, both now CE approved and registered with SAHPRA. We believe Venus Fiore to be best in class in terms of Gary Price safety, comfort and efficacy for feminine health. Our Venus Heal for soft tissue injury is going to be a game changer as the RP3 technology incorporates proprietary (MP)2 technology combined with massage for therapeutic relief of soft tissue injury, muscle spasm and pain.

“We look forward to continue serving the local market and see it revive as vaccinations role out and enable a more freely moving society.”

Only 42% of ‘natural skincare products’ are natural, shows study A study by The Derm Rivew has found that only 42% of ‘natural skincare products’ are natural, with the majority (58%) of skincare products marketed as ‘natural’ containing synthetic ingredients.

The Derm Review assessed 100 of the best-selling natural skincare products to establish how many of them were truly natural. It found that skincare products marketed as ‘natural’ are 24% more expensive than ‘regular’ skincare products.

In addition, all of the ‘natural’ serums in the study contained at least one synthetic ingredient.

Nearly eight in ten (78%) of ‘natural’ face masks contain synthetic ingredients, while ‘natural’ skincare products contain on average 2.4 synthetic ingredients.

The study points out that according to Grand View Research, natural beauty and skincare products are on the rise, and are expected to continue to grow 5% annually from 2020 to 2027.

While natural ingredients are not

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always guaranteed to be better, safer or healthier than many synthetic ingredients, an increasing number of consumers are actively seeking out natural products to ensure they stay away from ingredients that could potentially be harmful to their health and the environment.

Elle MacLeman, skincare biochemist at The Derm Review, comments: “Sadly, many brands overuse the word ‘natural’ in their marketing to sell more products, and that feels misleading and deceptive. Especially as our research found that these products tend to be priced higher while not necessarily being better, safer, or more environmentally friendly.

“I think one of the problems is that the industry is pretty much unregulated when it comes to making claims.

For instance, it’s common to see ‘chemical-free’ products on the shelves, but that doesn’t make any sense as even water is a chemical.”

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INDUSTRY NEWS Esse Academy launches with SA’s first skin microbiome course

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

Serious toxin complications underreported, reveals research A new study suggests that one in six botulinum-toxin patients suffers side-effects or more serious complications and that it’s likely that many cases aren’t being reported at all.

According to an article in The Observer, four doctors and academic researchers (three of whom are plastic surgeons) at the Royal Free and St Thomas’ hospitals in London found a 16% complication rate with toxin injections when reviewing global evidence.

Bruising, headaches, nausea and ‘frozen’ facial features were the most widely reported side-effects. More severe complications such as muscle stiffness, pain, dizziness and heart attack were also apparent.

The Observer reported that the research team analysed 30 studies involving 17,352 injections of botulinum toxin into the face.

Localised skin reactions or bruising (5%), headache (3%) and facial paralysis (2%) were found to be the most common adverse reactions. Only 188 ‘adverse reactions’ in total were reported.

Lead author of the study, Dr David Zargaran, believes the MHRA (Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency) database of complications is a significant underestimate of the total number of complications.

The review found a high frequency of more than one side-effect being experienced at the same time. In 28% of the MHRA reports, the patient had flu-like symptoms or a chill, while in 27% they had a headache or migraine. One in eight recorded cardiovascular symptoms, ranging from high blood pressure to an abnormally fast heart rate and heart attacks. (Sources: Professional Beauty UK; The Observer)

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Award-winning biotech skincare solutions company, Esse, has opened its new training centre, the Esse Academy, at its headquarters in Richmond, KwaZulu-Natal.

The Academy’s first offering is a novel course that trains dermatologists, medical aestheticians and skin therapists in the innovative science that is evolving around the skin microbiome.

Esse founder and biochemist, Trevor Steyn, has been a global leader in pioneering the importance of the skin microbiome (i.e. the delicate ecology of microorganisms that exists on every person). Says Steyn: “The use of antibiotics, disinfectants and chemical-based cosmetics is disrupting the skin’s microbial ecology, leading to chronic sub-clinical inflammation and premature ageing. Over the last few years, Esse has invested heavily in training for skincare professionals.”

Believed to be the first of its kind in South Africa, the new Esse five-day course covers the microbial ecosystem on skin and possible probiotic treatments for skin conditions.

Each group that attends the Esse Academy will be exposed to both theoretical and practical elements, gaining experience in swabbing and genetic analysis, growing cultures and microscopic analysis.

Course attendees will leave the course with: a clear understanding of the skin microbiome and its impact on skin health; knowledge of the key species and their role in the ecology; and knowledge of how probiotics can be used to treat skin conditions.

Steyn notes that the Esse Academy is sustainably constructed using glass and wood, merging into the environment with an aircontrol system that provides a constant flow of cool forest air.

The Esse Academy

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INDUSTRY NEWS SA-developed clinical weight loss system launches for professional channel only

Photo by Raphael Lovaski on Unsplash

Visits to real world wellness destinations increase following end of lockdown People in countries where lockdown restrictions have eased are visiting spas, wellness travel destinations, gyms and fitness studios at rates far greater than expected.

This is according to a report by the GWI (Global Wellness Institute), which has analysed global data. It states: “New industry surveys and reports show a rush to IRL (in real life) wellness experiences that were more powerful than anyone could have expected. The International Spa Association’s (ISPA’s) recent report on the 2020 US spa industry shows that while hard hit, the numbers are surprisingly less bad than one might expect: a roughly 35% drop in visits and revenue. But spas are reporting that as of July 2021, demand for services has never been higher. And wellness travel destinations are seeing far more travelers choose wellness trips as their first vacation than they could have ever expected.”

GWI’s research cites a new, major ClassPass survey of its 40,000 studio, gym and spa partners across 30 countries which found that in the first half of 2021, spas entered the top 10 most-booked experiences for the first time.

Blue Sky International has introduced the Sprezzatura Clinical Weight Management programme into the Africa professional space.

Created and developed by a South African pharmacologist and a toxicologist, Sprezzatura is uniquely aimed to increase metabolism, burn fat and reduce the storage of fat in the body. Fundamentally, Sprezzatura aids irregular mood, irritability and anxiety in women, dually controlling emotional eating.

Says Blue Sky International’s Wayne La Grange: “Intensive international local clinical trials have allowed Sprezzatura to claim a world first approach. A 12-week programme, Sprezzatura addresses the cognitive aspects of weight loss, as well as the emotional aspects, and includes a support programme.

“The Sprezzatura product is formulated with 22 different actives to target nine different aspects of weight loss.

Ingredients are imported from France but assembled in South Africa. Sprezzatura will shortly be assigned a Nappi Code to allow for medical aid submissions.”

New general secretary for National Bargaining Council

Lou-Ann Brothwell

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The National Bargaining Council for Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Skincare and Beauty Industry (HCSBC) has appointed Lou-Ann Brothwell as its new general secretary.

This position was previously referred to as CEO. With a professional background in labour relations, Brothwell holds legal qualifications and has experience in

industrial relations, human resources and general management across both the public and private sectors.

Most recently, Brothwell worked in the aviation industry in a management position for a national airline, and subsequently as the general manager of a branch of a trade union (i.e. pilots’ union). (Source: EOHCB Facebook page)

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The Programme

09.00 - 16.00

Managing your business

09.00 – 09.30

Sales and retailing – Kerry Viljoen

Always a challenge, another look at ways to improve this essential income stream

09.35 – 10.05

Doubling your revenue! - Marisa Dimitriadis

It’s time to throw away the copy paste function in your business. One size does not fit all. The quicker you start to introduce personalisation into every aspect of your business, the quicker you are going to see that revenue DOUBLE.

10.10 – 10.40

Apply small changes for BIG financial gain – Diana van Sittert

Showing a practical financial breakdown of how much you can save by purchasing from one supplier versus multiple suppliers. Is it worth cutting corners on professionalism and costs or is there a better way? How is your supplier/s supporting you in this time? Smart buying and smart marketing.

Keep the divide between professional and retail offering to remain in business for years to come.

10.40 – 11.10

Coffee/tea Break – Exhibition Time

11.10 – 11.40

Make your salon as energy efficient – Charne Le Roux

Make sure that you are not paying more than you should in running your salon. LED lights, timers for geysers, so many ways to save a little money and make your business more sustainable

11.45 – 12.15

Marketing tips, how effective is social media? - Sally Harvey

Everyone believes a social media presence is essential to marketing your business, but how effective is it and are there other ways you should also be using to promote your business?

12.15 – 13.30

Lunch

13.30 – 14.00

Spruce up the salon on a budget -

Since before the pandemic, money has been tight in South Africa, but don’t neglect the maintenance of your salon. There are many ways to improve the look of your premises from a lick of paint to adding plants and pictures

14.05 – 14.35

Client loyalty – Stav Dimitriadis

Is sending a birthday message enough to ensure client loyalty, maybe there is more you can do?

14.35 – 15.00

Coffee/tea break Exhibition Time

15.00 – 15.30

Free for all discussion

A great opportunity to talk about YOUR challenges.

Delegates can ask the panellists their opinions on any topic that is giving cause for concern, a challenge, or a great new idea that needs to be shared. We will encourage participation from ALL delegates to produce a very interesting session to end the day.

Please note: Topics and speakers can change at short notice due to speaker availability We will refund tickets in the event that we need to postpone due to Covid restrictions All Covid 19 safety protocols will be strictly adhered too, masks will be worn at all times. productive way to end the day

Click HERE to book

BUSINESS TIPS

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business What is the difference between accreditation and registration?

Photo by Luiz Paulo R Santos on

Accreditation is defined as the action or process of officially recognising someone as having a particular status, or being qualified to perform a particular activity. In our context, it therefore entails official certification that a training provider/ educational institution has met certain standards set by an external regulator. Accreditation status awarded is usually linked to a time period to ensure fulfilment throughout of such particular function within the quality assurance system set up by SAQA (South African Qualifications Authority) in terms of the SAQA Act, 1995.

It is required that a tertiary /higher education provider first register as a PHEI (Private Higher Education Institution) with the DHET (Department of Higher Education and Training) to have the legal authority to offer higher education programmes. These programmes fall within the same NQF (National Qualifications Framework) and levels (Levels 5 to 10) as public universities and universities of technology.

FET (Further Education and Training) colleges: private providers offering qualifications within the OQSF (Occupational Qualifications Sub-Framework) of the QCTO (Quality Council for Trades and Occupations) must be accredited by the QCTO and registered as a Private College if offering Levels 1 to 6 on the NQF. (Skills Development Act, 1998, Act No.97 of 1998) Private institutions offering OQSF Qualifications Levels 7 to 8 are required to register as a PHEI. If a private provider offers qualifications from all three Sub-Frameworks, it has to satisfy in respect of each specific qualification and the requirements of the QC that relate to any one of the three Acts: HE (Higher Education) Act, CET (Continuing Education & Training) Act and SD (Skills Development) Act. Therefore, accreditation of qualifications and the ability of the institution to deliver the qualifications for PHEIs and private colleges is a means towards registration and does

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not represent or replace registration.

Accreditation awarding bodies for the industry

Current Quality Assurance Partners awarding accreditation within the health and skincare industry are Services SETA (Sector Education & Training Authority) and SAAHSP (Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry).

Registration within the health and skincare industry: as mentioned above, both registration methods are commonly accepted within the health and skincare industry. SAAHSP registered and accredited providers can be verified on https://www.saahsp.com/training-providers.

Who can offer qualifications?

Any training provider accredited to the relevant Quality Assurance Partner can offer qualifications.

DHET, FET and occupational qualifications

The NQF brings together three Qualifications SubFrameworks: • General and Further Education and Training Qualifications Sub-Framework (GFETQSF) • Higher Education Qualifications Sub-Framework (HEQSF); and • Occupational Qualifications Sub-Framework (OQSF) Training providers registered with CHE (Council on Higher Education) will have their qualifications listed on the HEQSF. SAAHSP and Services SETA qualifications are listed on the OQSF.

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BUSINESS TIPS

SAAHSP and Services SETA qualifications

Services SETA ID: 80646 Title: Further Education and Training Certificate: Beauty and Nail Technology Type: FET Certificate NQF Level: 4 Credits: 156 minimum SAAHSP ID: 58310 Title: National Diploma: Health and Skincare Type: Advanced Certificate NQF Level: 6 Credits: 266 minimum

I am wanting to open my own salon and would like to know the legal definitions of the terms ‘Employer’ and ‘Legal Owner’.

Other learning programmes listed as qualifications on the OQSF

ID: 49952 Title: CIDESCO Diploma: Health and Skincare Therapy ID: 49951 Title: SAAHSP Diploma: Health and Skincare Therapy ID: 21513 Title: Diploma Health and Skincare Therapy (ITEC) ID: 57472 Title: Diploma Health and Skincare Therapy (CIBTAC) If a training provider offers one of the above and is not accredited by SAAHSP they qualify as an Awarding Body.

When advertising the offerings of ITEC, CIDESCO, SAAHSP, CIBTAC, IECAB and City & Guilds, it is INCORRECT to say: ‘Accredited by’ or to state that you offer diplomas and certificates, or to state that you are internationally accredited.

It is CORRECT to say: ‘Offering internationally recognised programmes’. Mention your international affiliations, such as, for example, ITEC, and make it clear that this offers you a passport to international work opportunities.

What is CPD approved training?

CPD (Continuous Professional Development) is the ongoing process of industry professionals investing in the development of their skills and knowledge.

CPD approved training is skills training endorsed by SAAHSP, with new skills and technologies and it includes training that cannot be linked to a qualification. SAAHSP corporate members (suppliers) that offer these industry related trainings, from product training to advanced skills, can get their training endorsed by SAAHSP as CPD Approved Training.

Why is CPD training not accredited?

Skills programmes/ trainings are not listed on the NQF and are therefore not qualifications and cannot be linked to accreditation. If a provider is accredited, but the specific skills programme is not listed on the NQF, it cannot be called accredited. If a training provider offers international certificates, etc. and it is NOT on the NQF, internationally accredited training may not be claimed.

When advertising CPD, say either SAAHSP endorsed CPD Approved Programme, or SAAHSP approved CPD Activity.

This article was compiled by SAAHSP – the Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry, a non-profit organisation legally constituted to protect the Public Interest in relation to services provided. SAASHP develops, awards, monitors and revokes Professional Designations and regulates CPD (Continual Professional Development). Email joelette@saahsp.co.za

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Photo by Edmond Dantès from Pexels

An Employer is any person who employs or provides work for any person and renumerates or expressly or tacitly undertakes to renumerate him/her, or who permits any person whatsoever, in any manner, to assist him/her carry on or conduct his/her business.

A Legal Owner is any person, partnership, enterprise or entity of whatsoever nature that conducts cosmetology or beauty or skincare services from an establishment, the premises of which are either owned by the proprietor, or hired from the owner of such premises, or hired from any other person that has the right to occupy such premises, or occupies such premises by virtue of an agreement concluded with the owner of such premises, or any other person that has the right to occupy such premises.

As such, a Legal Owner either trades under his/her own name or under the name and style of the establishment or that of any other employer or legal owner and employs no employees and may include persons that are normally referred to in the (hairdressing) industry as ‘rent-a-chair’.

The above was written by the Employers’ Organisation for Hairdressing, Cosmetology and Beauty (EOHCB) – a constituted and registered Employers Organisation as per the Labour Relations Act 66 of 1995. This non-profit organisaiton promotes the interest of its members by protecting and supporting the needs of Employers and Legal Owners through Collective Bargaining, Labour Relations, support and quality industry education, training, development and regulation. www.eohcb.co.za

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BUSINESS TIPS

Tips to achieve

workplace wellness

Workplace stress has been described as the health epidemic of the 21st century and has become even more pronounced during COVID-19

Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels

ost people spend more time at work (be it at the office or remotely) than anywhere else, making their mental and physical health of vital importance not just to them but to the companies they work for.

In fact, workplace wellness has a direct impact on company morale, productivity, absenteeism and turnover.

At its core, corporate wellness calls on companies to champion a holistic approach to employee wellbeing.

Happy and healthy employees are more productive and take fewer sick days.

When shaping their corporate culture, employers have an opportunity and a responsibility to focus on an organisational culture that embraces a holistic approach to the health of employees. Companies can do this through health education, free medical screenings, fitness programmes, stress and weight loss programmes, yoga and meditation sessions, and free massages at work, as well as wellness challenges, for example. The pandemic has shown that it is that it’s just as easy to do many of these things virtually through webinars, internal newsletters and even social media.

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Critical balance

Lockdown and office closures during the COVID-19 pandemic have made finding a work-life balance more important than ever before.

“With many people working from home, the line between work and personal time has become increasingly blurred,” says Lucinda Moeketsi, HR director at global healthcare company, Organon. “This further adds to the mental stress experienced by individuals and puts pressure on human relationships.”

A survey on mental health conducted by SADAG during the COVID-19 lockdown found that 55% of participants expressed feelings of anxiety and panic, and 28% of employees were experiencing constant high levels of both psychological and physical distress, with more women than men experiencing physical suffering. While 49% of employees were highly concerned about the future, the top three concerns were the country’s economy, childcare and schooling, as well as family health and wellbeing.

“This could negatively impact workflow and quality of work, therefore we need to be conscious of the effects of the pandemic on our teams,” notes Moeketsi.

Organon medical director, Dr Abofele Khoele, adds: “At a time when social distancing and lockdown has more people working from home, companies have been forced to look at corporate wellness from a different angle and find new ways to create a healthy work environment.”

With many people WORKING FROM HOME, the line between work and PERSONAL TIME has become INCREASINGLY BLURRED. Taking action

Here are some suggestions on how to achieve workplace wellness during COVID-19.

• Be realistic about what can be achieved.

• Maintain a daily routine as much as possible – get up, get dressed, create a to-do list, etc.

• Keep the hours you work in check and be mindful of work-life balance.

• Stay in touch with family and friends.

• Eat well, prioritise sleep and stay physically fit.

• Try and find time to switch off from technology.

• Monitor warning signs of poor mental health.

• Reach out to mentors and colleagues for support.

• Maintain interests outside work.

• Don’t be afraid to ask for help. Access information and support services.

• Consult your company’s Human Resources or Employee Assistance Programme provider if you have one.

The Organon team emphasise that it’s important to remember to take leave. “Even if you’re just staying at home, taking time away from work is vital for your mental health. Your body needs time to switch off and recharge.

Chronic workplace stress that is not managed will result in burnout,” they say.

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TREATMENT REVIEW

Symphonique Infusion facial arrives in SA

Joanna Sterkowicz is among the first people in the world to experience the brand new Symphonique Infusion Facial from Danish medical skincare company, Beauté Pacifique y treatment took place at one of Beauté Pacifique’s 6 flagship clinics, For Beautiful Life Medical Aesthetics in Dunkeld, Johannesburg. CEO of Beauté Pacifique Africa, Wayne La Grange, explained that it was, in fact, the Africa team who developed the Infusion Facial for Symphonique. The treatment incorporates Himalyan singing bowl therapy to provide a holistically relaxing experience for the client.

La Grange described the new Symphonique range (comprising a serum, a day cream, a night cream and an eye cream) as ‘the best range that Beauté Pacifique has ever created’. He continued: “The technology involved in Symphonique has never been seen before – it incorporates six vitamin A esters, three of which are entirely new. Each ester has a different and synergistic function. We use pure, medical grade retinol, as well as a new generation of anti-oxidants found to be effective against blue light, infrared and UV. All in all, there are 60 ingredients in Symphonique.

“So revolutionary is the Symphonique technology, which was four years in the making, that we have patented Symphonique. Essentially, Symphonique performs a reprogramming of the dermis.”

Two signature treatments have been introduced this year – Metamorphose Microneedling, a clinical treatment involving microneedling for reconstruction of the skin, and Infusion, a non-invasive hydration and anti-ageing treatment.

International master trainer, Julia Wills, performed my Infusion treatment, commencing with the relaxing Himalayan signing bowl therapy. She explained: “The bowl is made of brass and when played on the body, which comprises of 60% water, sound waves travel through water, carrying the vibrations through the body with a powerful relaxing effect.”

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This therapy was followed by a breathing exercise that incorporated the use of a menthol scent. It certainly had a calming effect, leaving me with a feeling of well-being.

Wills then cleansed my face with Beauté Pacifique’s Enriched Cleansing Milk and toned with the brand’s aloe vera toner. Then came the application of the soothing Triple Clay Masque, a deep pore treatment. This stayed on for 15 minutes, during which Wills performed a chemical exfoliation on the arms, before applying the Corpos Paradoxe Body Oil. Once the mask was removed, Wills toned my skin again to prepare it for the Serum Symphonique – a serum that includes two types of hyaluronic acid, two peptides that improve the skin’s own production of hyaluronic acid and Beauté Pacifique’s own papain-based exfoliation concept.

This was followed by Crème Symphonique Eye Zone and Crème Symphonique Night-Time.

My treatment ended with a cup of freshly brewed organic tea. Said Wills: “Infusion was designed to ignite all the senses – touch, hearing, smell, taste, vision and equilibrium.”

La Grange added: “Symphonique is the premier range for serious skincare users who want an instant and longterm anti ageing result.”

Any salon that introduces Infusion will receive a free, original hand-crafted singing bowl from Tibet.

CONTACT: 073 053 8830

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Education

The key to your success The Isa Carstens Academy has introduced a fantastic new course designed to equip people to successfully manage salons and spas. The course is made up of 8 modules that will teach attendees essential skills to run a successful salon or spa business. he Salon and Spa Management Course will provide you with a comprehensive understanding of how to manage all aspects within a salon or spa environment. A major focus of the course is to increase the ability to manage and grow your business, through leadership, planning, and being customer and growth focussed.

Why take part?

This course is designed to give salon owners and managers the tools to grow a profitable and sustainable business. Giving you the overall business skills to achieve this. It is a great opportuntiy for those who wish to take the leap from therapist to manager or salon owner.

The benefits

Completing a Salon and Spa Management course at the Isa Carstens Academy will help to create a desire for continuing professional development, improving leadership skills and visionary concepts for future business growth. An opportunity designed specifically to address your management training needs, be it for yourself, or a staff member.

The courses provide flexibility, international recognition, are cost effective, with inspiring and engaging delivery of relevant content.

This is a programme that caters for all, providing

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This course is DESIGNED to give SALON OWNERS and managers the TOOLS to grow a PROFITABLE and sustainable business. opportunities for salon and spa owners to either improve themselves or to bring on staff who are deserving of additional training to allow them to take on greater responsibility. It can also be a way for self-development and learning so that they can achieve personal career goals and seek new opportunities, equipped with all the additional skills that will optimise their career.

Flexible learning

The flexibility is a great advantage, whether you wish to complete the course over one semester or to select particular modules that suit your personal development.

The online theory modules (Module 1-8) are completed in your own time and pace. The estimated duration for course completion equates to 22 weeks, should you dedicate 5 hours per week to this course. Each module is concluded with an online assignment. Once you have successfully completed the online theory modules, you will need to submit a Final Summative Assignment.

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

The Salon and Spa Management Course Introduction to the Salon and Spa Industry MODULE 1: Business Planning MODULE 2: Leadership MODULE 3: Customer Service & Engagement MODULE 4: Marketing MODULE 5 : Sales Techniques MODULE 6: Operational Management MODULE 7: Human Resource Management MODULE 8: Managing Finances The course provides the foundational business knowledge to expand with confidence and success.

Every person in a salon is a leader – whether leading other therapists, support staff and colleagues. The leadership module is particularity valuable to anyone working in the business, and not only the management staff.

Easy engagement

Online courses often lack the engagement needed to stay motivated and inspired. This course will give you access to weekly live online classes where the group interacts with lecturers and each other. There are also 4 interactive panel discussions per semester with an industry expert on various topics applicable to the course and industry. This is available to anyone whether enrolled for the entire programme or only one module.

Business owners may wish to promote existing staff, or increase their responsibilities, and to ensure that the individual has a comprehensive understanding of the role and the particular skills needed to be developed for success. Therefore you can choose and purchase

Every person in a SALON IS A LEADER – whether leading other therapists, SUPPORT STAFF AND colleagues. one or more of the modules individually for this purpose. For example, you may have a therapist whom you wish to promote to a team leader, therefore the Leadership and Customer Services modules would be ideal for the purpose of giving them the necessary skills to take on the role.

It may be a requirement for therapists to oversee a

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managerial role temporarily and therefore the HR, Leadership, Customer Service and Finance modules would be ideal.

Perhaps you are a motivated receptionist who has an interest in promoting the business and can see opportunities to do this. The modules titled, Customer Service & Engagement, Sales Techniques and Marketing would be great opportunities to develop these skills.

No barriers to entry

No previous formal education is required; but at least 3 years working experience, ideal for anyone working in the industry. This ensures that quality education is accessible to everyone.

International recognition

Those in the industry wanting to work abroad and get international recognition for their studies – when all 8 modules are completed, they can enroll for the CIDESCO Beauty and Spa Management membership examination.

Register

The Salon and Spa Management course commence during January and July annually. Enroll online at: https:// isacarstens.co.za/salon-and-spamanagement-course/ Other online courses offered are: Manicure & Pedicure, Laser & Light Therapies, Dermaplaning and Microneedling.

Learn more: https://isacarstens.co.za/online-courses/

Isa Carstens® Academy is registered with the Department of Higher Education and Training as a Higher Education Institution under the Higher Education Act, 1997. Registration Certificate Number: 2000/HE07/025.

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BUSINESS TIPS

– how to shift the mindset of the industry

Lauren Gibson explores elements that can be introduced into your treatment offering to future proof your guest’s wellbeing

eing in the spa and wellness industry, our business thrives on others suffering from burnout and exhaustion, as well as on touch hungry consumers wanting to come and visit our spaces for some down time. They do this to replenish, renew and feel better.

That sounds quite sadistic and perhaps it isn’t the case for everyone, but human behaviour often makes us crave, seek out or invest in touch and rejuvenation for self when we are at breaking point, or when it may be more reactive rather than preventative.

A big trend coming out of global wellness reports (especially from companies like Aon that focus on corporate wellness), is that proactive care is going to be a large focus and something we should consider in spa and wellness centres.

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What to offer

Elements to include in proactive packages would differ with each business and be dependent on the overall outcome that you want to deliver for the client.

One option could be to incorporate breathwork with learning how to do box breath or belly breath to assist with attention switching. We are now in back-to-back virtual meetings, often having to rush from one Zoom meeting to the next, so breathing techniques take on a new significance.

You could incorporate elements of mindfulness into your spa or wellness offering, for instance, and how to change your eating routine to encourage mindful eating to prevent the gut issues and indigestion often associated with bad diets and stress.

Or, it could even be about incorporating work with a coach who can actively listen, not interrupt, and creating space to ensure one can process and feel as if the space is held for them.

Perhaps add in an element of nature therapy to assist with reconnection and brain fog, or improve the balance between the nervous system with humming and chanting in a treatment to stimulate the vagus nerve. This would improve the balance between the sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous systems – something that it out of kilter for most of the population as we are in a constant state of the flight/ fright response.

The pandemic has taught us that we need to plan. We have business owners’ future proofing their businesses and creating talent pipelines to ensure successful risk mitigation– so why can’t we do the same with our health and wellbeing?

Therefore, future proof wellbeing and be proactive to prevent the burnout.

Photo by Anna Tarazevich from Pexels

Proactive versus reactive

This would allow our industry a chance to try and focus on preventing guest burnout – to create wellness offerings that address warning signs and triggers of exhaustion before they hit people. This often means more frequent visits to the spa or clinic, and these can be created as journeys or packages.

Lauren Gibson has over 17 years of experience in the professional skincare industry and eight years in corporate strategy. She considers herself an industry change maker and energetic influencer of people, teams and business. Based in London, she is the UK Country Manager for HydraFacial. Email laurenleigh.gibson@gmail.com

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BUSINESS TIPS

People want to buy

– so sell to them Sales expert Kerry-Lee Viljoen provides valuable tips on how to shift to transformational selling

Photo by Angela Roma from Pexels

sale is like planting a seed and waiting for it to flower. It takes effort, patience and consistency. It will feel like hard work in the beginning, but after some time that hard work will turn in to a routine and the seedling will suddenly blossom. And it will all be worth it.

Selling a product to someone who wants to buy a ‘product’ is called transactional selling. Alternatively, providing a solution to someone who is seeking change is called transformational selling.

We need to move past the painful phase of transactional selling, and by that I mean selling a few products and accepting money in exchange, and then never seeing or speaking to the client ever again. This form of selling is instant, un-emotive and short-lived.

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JUST UNDERSTANDING your very OWN BUYING DESIRE already puts you 10 STEPS AHEAD of THE SALE because you know how YOUR SALES PROSPECT feels in THE MOMENT. Instead, we need to learn and flourish in the art of transformational selling as it is more meaningful and honest. It involves establishing the pain points experienced, the results expected, and the journey the client is willing to take alongside you – the professional – to achieve their overall transformation desired.

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BUSINESS TIPS ‘Buyers’ psychology’

I don’t know about you, but when I browse through a cosmetic store, or walk down the cosmetic aisle, I don’t feel ‘obligated’ to purchase anything against my own will. In fact, I want to buy what’s on offer and what truly resonates with me. There is this absolute burning desire within me that wants to buy products that will make me feel good about myself, that make me feel on track with life and that make me feel even closer to becoming that better version of myself. This is my very own ‘buyers’ psychology’.

I have had to do huge amounts of selfreflection over the years and dive deep into my own ‘buyers’ psychology’ to establish what it is that actually makes me buy. There is so much power in doing this kind of exercise because the quicker you realise that your prospect is just another human craving change in her life, you will understand how selling a transformation that is desired, instead of a few products, is actually the game changer in sales. The sales prospect went from originally just spending money on products to actually spending money on herself (and her worth) and putting herself first once again.

Yes, I am a salesperson but in my everyday life I am also the buyer, experiencing the other side of the sale. The prospect in front of you is obviously a buyer. But you, the beauty professional, are also a buyer. Ultimately, we are all buyers.

ARE YOU trying to PUSH PRODUCTS onto YOUR CLIENT to hit YOUR NUMBERS, or are you INSTIGATING CHANGE in HER LIFE towards A BIGGER TRANSFORMATION? Self-reflection

Understanding that you are also a buyer gives you a massive opportunity to self-reflect and dive into your very own ‘Buyers’ psychology. So ask yourself these questions • What makes me buy?

• Why do I buy the things I do?

• What is it that ‘closes’ a sale for me?

• What transformation do I want to experience?

Just understanding your very own buying desire already puts you 10 steps ahead of the sale because you know how your sales

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prospect feels in the moment. And, you also know that you don’t need to push the sale, because if you have listened properly to her pain points, then you understand the results she expects. You should already know how seriously invested in this transformation she really is, because you are the prospect and the prospect is you.

Unsettling emotions

I am well aware that just the thought of selling brings about an array of mixed and unsettling emotions to beauty professionals. Feelings of doubt, discomfort and anxiety tend to show up and sabotage the sale at hand.

This is because we hand over control and place it comfortably in our prospect’s hands. By doing this and relying on our prospect to say ‘yes’, we lose control of the situation and, more importantly, we lose ownership of the outcome. This is a reflection of our own mindset.

There is always an opportunity for you to look at yourself in the mirror, record yourself doing a consultation and listen to the way you sell. This is uncomfortable for sure, but it’s also the only way to become more self-aware and it will allow you to pinpoint exactly where you are going wrong.

The more self-aware you become, the better you will know how you are being perceived by others, which ultimately can become your superpower because again, it will put you 10 steps ahead. Your current sales portfolio is a beautiful reflection of you and the way you currently think.

And the most exciting thing about this is that it is never set in stone. It’s always changeable. And change comes from within.

It is up to you as the professional in the room to differentiate between transactional selling and transformational selling. Are you trying to push products onto your client to hit your numbers, or are you instigating change in her life towards a bigger transformation?

One of my favourite quotes is by Jeffrey Gitomer who said: ‘People don’t like to be sold – but they love to buy’.

Your clients are craving to be better, they want to improve themselves and feel good about themselves.

So beauty professional, plant that seedling, nourish your clients’ concerns and prescribe to them exactly what is on their path to becoming that better version of themselves.

Remember, your client wants to buy from you, so all you need to do is sell to them. Easy.

Kerry-Lee Viljoen is the founder and host of the Redlips & Stilettos Podcast and the creator of The Sales Habit Academy. Viljoen has been working abroad for the past five years, experiencing multiple sales environments relating to the beauty industry. She trains colleges and beauty professionals around South Africa. Email kerryviljoen@hotmail.com

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INTERVIEW

Talking to…

Sandy Fuhr Joanna Sterkowicz chats to BTI founder and former president of CIDESCO International, Sandy Fuhr, about her role in a brand new industry body, the World Spa Organisation, and about the education sector in South Africa

You were recently appointed as the Quality and Education Director of the World Spa Organisation (WSO) – how did this come about?

I have two colleagues in Italy with whom I have worked closely over many years in the spa and beauty industry. Together, we decided to launch this new spa organisation with a difference, where all organisations, associations, individuals, spas, salons and suppliers can join us as we head into the future. WSO brings new and exciting inclusions and functions to events such as Cosmoprof and Professional Beauty.

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INTERVIEW

The three of us are the WSO founders, being Dr Andrea Bovero, Laura Grazioli and myself. My husband, Ian Fuhr, is an advisor to WSO with his immense amount of knowledge in the beauty industry, combined with the ability to bring various cultures together. We are so excited to have been able to create such an amazing space in such a short period of time.

What are your duties in the new WSO role?

Apart from being a co-founder, I am appointed as the Quality and Education Director, which is where my specialities lie.

We have a powerful Spa and Beauty Management course which will follow through the system in 2022.

Why is this organisation important to the industry?

The industry has long been in need of a forward-thinking organisation that encompasses all members in the industry, no exclusions. It is a ‘Spa Collective’, where we aim to build a worldwide spa business culture in multi-cultural societies, to establish a platform whereby we focus on obsessive client service. It is our tool to promote wellness and equality throughout the world in our industry. We are dedicated to the future to create an organisation as a group of like-minded people, joining hands together for the same goals and vision.

THE INDUSTRY has long been in need of a FORWARD-THINKING ORGANISATION that encompasses ALL MEMBERS in the industry, no exclusions.

WSO IS A ‘SPA COLLECTIVE’, where we aim to build A WORLDWIDE SPA BUSINESS CULTURE in multicultural societies.

I’ve heard on more than one occasion that South African spa professionals are highly regarded and sought after in the overseas market – please comment.

Economic growth combined with culturally inclusive development and environmental sustainability is fast becoming the backbone of the development of the spa and beauty industry. We know that this ethos will help our students and graduates to have a valuable and viable industry in the future. Spa and beauty education in

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Having employed THERAPISTS in the UK AND EXAMINED students in 11 OTHER COUNTRIES AROUND THE WORLD, I am a proud WITNESS TO THE STANDARDS and quality of our EXITING GRADUATES. South Africa is the place where the seed is planted, where we proudly watch our students flourish and grow, to become reliable, competent and trusted therapists, spa managers and even business owners. Having employed therapists in the UK and examined students in 11 other countries around the world, I am a proud witness to the standards and quality of our exiting graduates. They are highly employable, ethically sound and reliably qualified.

What was the highlight of your experience as President of CIDESCO International?

I retired from the CIDESCO Presidency in February 2021 after 18 months as President, following eight years as their PR and Marketing Board member. Much of my Presidency was challenging, as we hit the global COVID pandemic after only four months of my tenure. Upon reflection, highlights are having introduced a new course, holding various virtual meetings with our schools, members and countries around the world, combined with establishing a far more open communication system between all players.

Are you still part of CIDESCO section South Africa?

SAAHSP is the CIDESCO Section in South Africa. I am still very loyal to SAAHSP, being a member, as are all of my school owners and educators, of which we are now 40.

SAAHSP is the non-statutory Professional Body for the industry and I find that our industry should be showing much more support to the organisation. As Past President and Board Member of SAAHSP, I believe that with its new dedicated Board and committee members, SAAHSP should lead the industry into the future, with education as its driving force.

If a salon or spa owner is looking to recruit staff – what sort of qualifications should they be looking for?

I firstly believe that the salon or spa owner should ensure that the staff member they are looking to recruit has been trained at an Accredited Training Provider – either accredited by SETA (Sector Education & Training Authority) or CHE (Council on Higher Education). This will assure them that the graduate has gone through quality educational offerings.

Secondly, if the graduate is ITEC, SAAHSP or CIDESCO qualified, the employer is assured that the student has dedicated themselves to enter examinations which have been externally assessed and verified. The owner will immediately know that the knowledge and experience of the applicant comes from a sound background.

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INTERVIEW How do beauty education standards in South Africa measure up to the rest of the world?

I believe we continue to be up there with the best. In my business at BTI (Beauty Therapy Institute), we are dedicated and driven to take our education training standards and quality into Africa, to assist our African countries to elevate the level of spa and beauty education there. Up until recently, it has been sadly lacking. We are making incredible inroads and are seeing our African colleagues grow and develop by the day.

SADLY, the basic ability TO UNDERSTAND professionalism, ethics and PERSONAL SERVICES is NOT BEING TAUGHT on a daily basis AT SCHOOLS, and sometimes not even in the STUDENTS’ HOMES. tragically are unable to cover the costs to study.

We need to establish ways to leverage SDL (Skills Development Levies) funds, learnerships, bursaries and grants, corporate social investment support and the like. This will enable the majority of our disadvantaged communities to have the opportunities to enter into this industry.

Are student numbers dwindling, do you think?

I believe that numbers are dwindling in many of the full time programmes. Schools sadly are closing, unable to fill up their classrooms due to financial constraints.

We are extremely fortunate at BTI in that we offer flexible modular courses. Because our entrants are able to pay per course, it is far more manageable for them to complete a short course at a time, undertaking one course at a Laura Grazioli, Dr Andrea Bovero and Sandy time. This means that we have a large number of students, but we need them to take more courses to become fully qualified and employable in our salons and spas. That is the biggest Looking at the European, American and challenge. They need money to study.

Eastern standards, in my opinion, we continue to be exceptional. I recall a conversation with Professional Beauty Group CEO, Mark Maloney, a good few I have reached out to Services SETA to request learnerships years ago when he told me that he wants and bursaries. They, however, do not have any on hand at Professional Beauty in South Africa because the moment. The last time we ran learnerships for 75 we are ‘simply the best’ in the industry. learners was in the 2015 – 2016 cycle. I am in meetings with Thanks Mark, I still agree with you. various organisations, associations, banks, registered credit providers, suppliers and groups of companies to assist my company in this quest. It is incredibly difficult. All schools and students need help.

I firmly believe that due to the socioeconomic situation in South Africa, the beauty education sector is severely Yes, it has. I believe this is due to the level of education at impacted due to new applicants being schools. Sadly, the basic ability to understand unable to source funding to pay for their professionalism, ethics and personal services is not being courses. This is either from their families or taught on a daily basis at schools, and sometimes not support from government or corporates. For even in the students’ homes. This places an even bigger example, BTI has applicants at our schools responsibility on us as the educators, as what was daily (11 colleges now in South Africa) who previously a guaranteed basic in entry level students, we are desperate to enter this industry, but now often have to teach in our classrooms.

At BTI, every one of our students has to complete the

What sort of grants are available for beauty students?

What are the biggest challenges facing the beauty education sector in South Africa today?

Has the quality of student changed over the past few years, would you say?

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AMANDA HARROD

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INTERVIEW

Ethics and Professionalism programme as a compulsory aspect in their training. We have introduced a Client Relations Management course to support the basic Ethics and Professionalism. We further have a Code of Conduct for each student which they receive when they enroll, which we go through with them individually. It is a challenge to instill this into every student, but when this plays through as a basic part of their every day at college, it filters into their DNA eventually and we find that they become comfortable with it as a normal part of their lives.

I believe that STUDENT NUMBERS ARE DWINDLING in many of the FULL TIME PROGRAMMES. Schools sadly ARE CLOSING, unable to fill up their CLASSROOMS due to FINANCIAL CONSTRAINTS. As the owner of colleges, how do you keep up to date with trends to ensure teaching is relevant in today’s market?

It starts with being in touch with the needs of the industry globally. I ensure I am connected to industry role-players internationally and watch and read the latest material. Also, I am grateful for the likes of Professional Beauty who continue to host events and publish articles and magazines of value containing the latest information. Combining this type of underpinning information with the requests from our students, educators and extended team of support at BTI, we introduce new courses to our scope on a regular basis, upskilling our educators in the process. I also present papers regularly at virtual forums and follow influencers and group posts on social media.

Obviously the beauty education and training sector had to make enormous adjustments last year because of lockdown, with things moving largely online.

How has 2021 been for most beauty schools?

We were super fortunate that we at BTI were prepared for this, unknowingly at the time.

BTI had already placed all of our learning material into an E-library and had an App created to support our students to study their theory via distance learning.

The practical was more problematic, but

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thanks to Zoom and various other platforms, we have observed students practising on their dogs, friends, family and teddies, amongst many other creative ways.

But we got back into the classroom as quickly as we could, because, let’s face it, you cannot with all good intent teach practical touch, feel and rhythm, online 100%.

How have you managed to keep both your lecturers and students motivated during the pandemic?

Our latest schoolroom lockdown was for the whole month of July this month. It was terribly hard to go back to that level again. But my team rises to the challenge. I am super proud and inspired by them. We all pull together at every turn and meet as a team to brainstorm and invariably come out with a positive approach to whatever we do.

Furthermore, we have to rise above it all for our students.

They need to be assured that we have this in our hands, that we are dealing with each situation, and that we are there to support them constantly. They need to be motivated by us. So we work as a team, maintaining our morale for them.

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SPA FOCUS

New haven of holistic health opens in KZN midlands The Healing Earth Spa brand was recently tasked by the Brahman Hills Hotel, Conference & Wedding Venue to take over its existing spa.

Joanna Sterkowicz takes a closer look

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fficially launched in August this year, the Healing Earth Spa at Brahman Hills is situated on the doorstep of the scenic and picturesque Midlands Meander in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN).

Says Healing Earth founder, Elizabeth Brandt: “When the Brahman Hills team approached us to overhaul their spa, it was clear that their mission was to work in harmony with nature and industry leaders, which made us the perfect fit as a brand partner. They wanted to pivot their focus to their hospitality offering and let specialists in the holistic health, wellness and spa sector assume full responsibility for this revolutionised offering.

“When we took over the spa, Brahman Hills also completely renovated its cottages and rooms and created magnificent gardens, all of which we incorporate into our executive holistic packages and offerings.”

Healing Earth fully overhauled the existing spa.

There are now a total of eight treatment rooms, of which five are couple rooms and one is a holistic treatment room. All rooms are fitted with floor-toceiling glass doors that completely open up to welcome the magnificent views of the Midlands. Two of the rooms have side-by-side couple’s baths, which

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SPA FOCUS

have proved to be extremely popular and highly requested as guests want to enjoy this scenic offering with their loved ones.

In addition, there is yoga area and a tranquility room. The latter is described as: ‘a sanctuary of silence and serenity and a space reserved purely for a self-guided, multi-sensory journey filled with guided meditation, tailored aromatherapy, personal affirmation cards, and more’.

Bridal suite

Says Brandt: “We also have a unique, completely separate bridal suite with its own hair salon, beautifully outfitted en-suite bathroom, wardrobe, make-up station and relaxation area, with the option of in-room catering. As we have four private changing rooms with full facilities, it allows for unique privacy for couples or groups.

“Another unique offering is that each guest who visits the spa receives a beautiful gift bag with their own shower gel, shower cap, shampoo & conditioner, lip balm, etc, all housed in eco-friendly packaging and presented in a stylish branded cotton bag. This is in addition to the luxury amenities already present in the facilities.”

Brahman Hills has beautifully curated gardens, and the team farms its own vegetables, using their produces from farm to

We have A UNIQUE, completely SEPARATE BRIDAL SUITE with its OWN HAIR SALON, beautifully outfitted EN-SUITE BATHROOM, WARDROBE, make-up station and RELAXATION AREA, with the option of IN-ROOM CATERING.

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table around the property. Commencing October, the spa team is introducing some amazing smoothie options as part of its packages and on the menu for guests to order.

There will be an array of healthy options and inclusions for optimum health and nutritional value.

Breathtaking views

The spa’s steam room and sauna facilities both overlook breathtaking views of the Midlands, with a high possibility of seeing zebras and other wildlife. There is also an indoor heated pool adjacent to a chilled plunge pool, to be used after the heat experiences to encourage and boost circulation.

Brandt describes the new spa décor as stylish and sophisticated, while still supremely comfortable. It draws on the natural surrounds for inspiration, and incorporates earth-friendly natural elements to merge seamlessly with the setting.

She points out that each of the Healing Earth Spas is unique and honours its respective location. “We pride ourselves on the best service standards across all properties. Our brand promise is to offer only the best in quality treatments, 5-star guest service experience and of course, our world-class Healing Earth products and to bring it all together. We love to personalise and tailor make our offerings to best suit our guests and to ensure that their needs are catered for.”

Brahman Hills Healing Earth Spa currently has 11 full time therapists, a manager and receptionist, as well as a customer relationship manager, with definite potential to grow the team based on the positive demand received thus far.

Opening packages

To celebrate its launch on 1 August, Brahman Hills Healing Earth Spa launched three opening packages that ran through August into the end of September.

“These packages were extremely popular and very well received by our guests,” comments Brandt. “In fact, they exceeded our expectations. Our Opening Half Day

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SPA FOCUS

Packages were by far the most popular, with treatment times of up to 120 minutes, a Wellness Gift, use of our beautiful facilities and to top it off, lunch and a glass of bubbly or herbal tea.

“We have also catered for couples with our Opening Couples Package, which consisted of a combination of treatments for up to 90 minutes, with the same add-ons as our Half Day Packages. Additionally, we offered a full day option for those looking for a truly immersive experience.”

‘Transformative Wellness’

The words ‘Transformative Wellness’ have been added to the Healing Earth Spa brand name. Brandt elaborates: “In the words of the great Indian yoga teacher and author, B.K.S Iyengar – ‘Health is a state of complete harmony of the body, mind and spirit. When one is free from physical disabilities and mental distractions, the gates of the soul open’.

“At Healing Earth, we are pioneering a new age of holistic care through our industryleading signature products, protocols, concepts and retreats for health and wellbeing transformation. As such, we go far beyond offering a mere spa add-on, or superficial beauty treatments, with mindful walks in the beautiful Brahman Hills gardens and natural surrounds, yoga classes, guided meditation sessions and specialised mind-body connection therapies offered by our full-time holistic therapist and yoga instructor.”

Brandt notes that the spa sets the tone and intention for each guest’s experience by encouraging them to draw a beautifullydesigned affirmation card on arrival, which they can take home and keep as a reminder of their healing time at the spa.

“Healing Earth wellness experiences are about sharing an authentic story and transporting individuals on a journey that incorporates all aspects of wellness – from treatments and products, to the local culture and environment. Our highly evolved wellbeing journeys seamlessly fuse our professional spa concept with a full spectrum of holistic healing offerings.”

Deeper understanding

She believes that today’s wellness practitioner needs a deeper understanding of self and other, including authentic insight into the physical, mental and emotional planes of being. “The spa and wellbeing industry has shifted significantly toward a more holistic

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HEALING EARTH wellness EXPERIENCES ARE about sharing an AUTHENTIC STORY and TRANSPORTING INDIVIDUALS on A JOURNEY that incorporates all aspects OF WELLNESS – from treatments AND PRODUCTS, to the LOCAL CULTURE and environment.

approach, as people have realised that their health and well-being are more important now than ever before.”

Brandt was the brainchild behind South Africa’s first transformative executive wellness programme in Constantia early on in her career, and Healing Earth has big plans to launch a unique, executive, holistic health programme next year in collaboration with leading companies.

Dealing with the pandemic

The spa team continues to adhere strictly to all COVID-19 regulated requirements. They practise social distancing and manage guest numbers in facilities and public spaces to ensure that the spa is fully compliant. The safety of all guests and staff is the number one priority.

Brandt notes that when they did the full renovation of the spa, they kept COVID protocols front of mind. “A lot of our exclusive offerings, like the private change rooms and individual amenity bags, were created with this in mind.”

The spa is managed by Jaime–Lee Wagner, who has a wealth of management and international experience.

“Jamie-Lee has jumped straight into operations and is doing a fantastic job to bring forth our brand promise,” states Brandt.

online @ probeauty.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

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BUSINESS TIPS

Energy transference

Photo by Renda Eko Riyadi from Pexels

– is this really a ‘thing’?

Marisa Dimitriadis delves into an intangible dynamic that has a knock-on effect on your customers y first question to you before we continue this subject is – are you fully aware of, and in tune with, the status of the ‘energy’ your therapists are transferring to your clients? If your answer is yes, how do you know? I will share this a little later in the article, but first let’s find out about energy transference.

The universe and everything in it is comprised of atoms, which are in part made up of energy. Therefore, we shouldn’t be surprised to learn that the kind of energy we transmit and encounter shapes our lives on multiple levels.

Energy transference is what happens when a therapist touches a client, whether during a massage or skin treatment, or during a scalp massage at the wash basin.

Every time we touch a client, our energy transfers to them, as does their energy to us.

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Examples

Have you ever had a massage and felt that the therapist had ‘angel hands’ or ‘heavenly hands’?

Have you ever had a pedicure and felt energised and happy after the treatment?

Have you ever had a hair wash and scalp massage at the hair salon where you got up feeling like you were floating and totally calm and content?

What about a time you had a massage where you felt the opposite and were perhaps irritated or anxious after the massage? Or a pedicure where you couldn’t wait till the treatment was over?

Well, those feelings you have (whether positive or negative) represent the energy transference we are talking about. It is real and every single person feels it.

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BUSINESS TIPS Mental fragility

There are a few words used by the therapists that I have been training and communicating with over the past few months which have popped up, such as ‘stressed’, ‘afraid’, ‘anxious’ and ‘worried’, to mention a few. Yes, the therapists are super happy to be working and earning some money, but seldom these days do you hear someone saying they feel energised, wonderful, elated and fantastic. The reality is we are dealing with a mentally fragile workforce.

In our industry, more so than any other industry, positive energy transference is crucial to make your business survive.

It is your responsibility as owner or manager to manage your staff wellbeing to ensure their morale and psyche is energised, positive, happy and nurturing.

Seldom THESE DAYS do you HEAR SOMEONE saying THEY FEEL ENERGISED, WONDERFUL, elated and FANTASTIC.

HELP YOUR TEAM plan and KEEP THEM FOCUSED. It is one thing to EXPECT THEM TO HAVE A PLAN and another to GUIDE AND COACH them through the PLANNING PROCESS. well as provide a deeper level of understanding, fostering empathy and care in the workplace.

Secondly, increase the energy at the start of every shift.

Please don’t knock this idea until you try it. I had two clients try this out last week and both sent feedback saying it’s the best thing they’ve done for a long time and that it works.

Every single staff member started work happy and elated.

They all increased their revenue with upsells and retail.

So, how do you increase the energy? It’s simple; play a song, a happy dancing song and play it loud. If you think it’s loud, then make it louder. Let a different staff member choose a song every day and then get everyone in a circle and start dancing to that one song. Watch the body language, watch the laughter and the outcome is a lot of endorphin release and a happy, smiling team.

Thirdly, help your team plan and keep them focused. It is one thing to expect them to have a plan and another to guide and coach them through the planning process.

When you plan with them and give them ideas, it immediately makes them feel supported and when someone is supported, they focus better and can deliver better. Remember that when a person has a plan they have direction and room to get creative.

These are three of many more ideas on how to ensure the energy transference taking place in your business is magical.

Low energy signals

Photo by Skylar Kang from Pexels

Setting the tone

Let’s look at three ideas on how you can set the tone (or the energy) with your staff that will later be transferred to each client.

Firstly, the ‘check in feeling word’ is a simple exercise that will allow each person to express their daily feelings in a safe environment. The idea is to create a group chat platform where team members share one word to describe the way they feel every morning, or prior to arriving at work for their specific shift. This allows team members to offer each other support where needed, as

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I did say I would share how to tell if your therapists’ energy is low. Body language says it all. If your therapist is sluggish, not smiling, not talking much, with folded arms or hunched over shoulders, then you can be sure she or he is not in the best space.

If ever you hear your therapist say, ‘oh no, I have a massage now’ or ‘I don’t feel like this’ or ‘oh no, I have to do xxxx feet and I don’t feel like it’ – this immediately means they are not in the mood. So that energy needs to be changed.

Business is exciting in today’s times. It is so much more than just numbers and stock, it is about psychology, energy, systems and the list goes on. Remember that our industry is absolutely the best industry to be in.

Marisa Dimitriadis if the founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. Email marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

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SKINCARE

The

ethical Side of beauty A trending movement in skincare is that of clean beauty, referring to cosmetic products formulated with ingredients that are not likely to be of harm to the user’s health or environment. Concurrent with this is a growing demand for transparency in terms of how ingredients are sourced, manufactured and packaged, with an emphasis on recyclable packaging

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Belief in nature

South African brand Esse is committed to providing skincare that is ethical and sustainable.

Says Esse founder, Trevor Steyn: “Our unwavering belief in nature and its ability to deliver potent activity for skincare leads to a fierce need to protect its natural resources. South Africa is home to almost a quarter of the world’s plant species. With the brand’s roots in South Africa, and a deep resonance with its harsh but abundant land, Esse has chosen the best of Africa’s plants to deliver potent new skincare actives in their products. Indigenous plants from across Africa, including but not limited to Zimbabwe, Zambia, Namibia, Malawi, Botswana, Swaziland and South Africa, are sustainably harvested from the wild by communities and processed into high-end active ingredients.

“Esse is committed to Fair Trade and through sourcing from these communities, the brand has been able to support women to send their kids to school, visit the clinic, invest in local credit schemes, or even build a house.”

Steyn points out that in addition to being certified organic to COSMOS standards, Esse is vegan and PETA accredited, carbon neutral and has recently become one of the first brands to adopt a plastic neutral stance.

He continues: “Esse has stepped up to help protect the ocean by being plastic neutral. By partnering with Cleanhub, we ensure that the plastic equivalent of our usage is collected and recycled.”

Esse uses green chemistry in its formulation to rewild skin and restore the skin’s microbiome to its wild and healthy state. “Our curiosity pushes our science towards creating technology that allows us to look closer and closer into the world around us and one of those is the world of our skin’s microbiome,” explains Steyn.

“What we can see is that the best skin is in tune with the natural world around us, so we share microbes and we recognise and accept the elements of nature that we have been exposed to for generations way more happily than we do to synthetic creations.”

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SKINCARE Sustainability campaign

Six Skincare was the first proudly South African cosmeceutical skincare brand to launch a sustainability campaign two years ago when it stopped using polyethylene beads in its exfoliators even before they were banned as a cosmetic ingredient by the FDA. The beads were replaced with an all-natural wood pulp for effective skin exfoliation.

Says Six Skincare founder, Marisa Dimitriadis: “Over the last 18 months we replaced all our packaging that cannot be recycled. This meant sacrificing our exclusive 4-layer tubes specially manufactured for us overseas.

“Right now we are in the process of sacrificing our most gorgeous spherical jars as their carbon footprint is just too high and simply does not conform to our sustainability policy in our company.”

Ingredients are sourced from various countries including Italy, Germany, UK, USA and Switzerland and each ingredient has to produce a bio degradable certificate before it is considered for the Six formulations.

From Africa

Terres d’ Afrique captures the unique power of rare African botanicals in science-driven, organic formulas that balance the skin and nourish the senses.

Born and raised in Madagascar, the brand’s founder, Dr Stephan Helary, has deep experience across agricultural science, botany, conservation and ecology. His work is driven by a deep passion for conservation and an unshakeable love of the earth and its gifts. Dr Helary is committed to demonstrating the power of pure, rare ingredients and to partnering ethically and responsibly with expert African producers and suppliers to bring those ingredients to the world.

The Terres d’Afrique skin and body care ranges contain no harsh chemicals or animal-derived additives, only the purest ingredients in organically-certified formulations.

Conscious formulations

Lulu & Marula is an all-natural, ethically produced skincare brand based in Cape Town. A collection of face and body care products, Lulu & Marula creates conscious, scientifically formulated skincare that works with skin to balance and boost its natural processes.

Endorsed by the Beauty Without Cruelty Association, Lulu & Marula products are not tested on animals and ingredients are all of natural origin.

Big changes

Spalicious has changed almost every single item of packaging and was still in the process of changing as this issue of the magazine was published. This extends from the gloss printed on the outer packaging, which is not recyclable, to some of the plastic containers that have been replaced by a metal or a plastic that is fully recyclable.

Spalicious body scrubs use only natural ingredients like sugar, salt and pumice.

All orders are delivered to clients with shredded paper that is collected from various local offices in the area, as Spalicious works together with other companies to recycle and reduce the carbon footprint. Bubble wrap is no longer used in packaging and clients are offered a R1 discount if they leave the outer box and return their container so that it can be correctly recycled.

online @ probeauty.co.za

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SKINCARE Top priority

For Italian brand Team Dr Joseph, nature, with its fascinating and highly intelligent plant world, has always been the top priority, being not only the basis of the company’s work, but also a guide in all areas.

“A respectful use of nature’s resources is our major focus,” states the Team Dr Joseph management. “We select the most effective plant substances and refine them with gentle methods to make them usable for your skin.

“With over 35 years of experience in the production of organic cosmetics, we can draw on a wealth of experience. Our products contain highly effective plant substances from organic cultivation with clinically confirmed effect. We prefer wild growth collections and plants from organic cultivation, as they have an immense concentration of active ingredients and thus offer the skin a diverse spectrum of action.

“Since our skin can absorb up to 60% of what is applied to it, we place the highest value on the purity of our active ingredients and the highest possible quality standard. By using ingredients from organic farming, residues of pesticides, unnecessary synthetic chemicals and fertiliser residues can be largely avoided.”

No harm

Respecting the environment

French skincare brand Guinot is positioned as an eco-friendly company. As such, it aims to respect the environment, not only in its formulation and production methods, but also in the active ingredients and packaging it chooses to use.

Says the Guinot team: “The active ingredients that are incorporated in our formulas are sourced from renewable plants as we are conscious of the environment’s fragility and are dedicated to preserving it. Guinot’s products have optimal traceability; this means we are able track the entire lifecycle of products, from sourcing and raw materials to manufacturing and distribution, and then on to consumers and beyond for a total of 10 years after the product has been manufactured.”

To improve skin compatibility, Guinot formulas are preserved without parabens and the active ingredients used are sourced from non-GMO plants. Guinot also complies with special treatment of wastewater and waste substances in conjunction with specialist waste-treatment companies to comply with applicable ecological rules. Packaging is bio-degradable and contains no PVC. Products are not tested on animals.

Lastly, Guinot is ISO 14001 certified through the internationally accredited Bureau VERITAS. This certification takes a minimum of five years to achieve and Guinot has been certified since 2012.

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Innoxa is a proudly South African brand that is established on an international heritage of over 100 years. The brand’s credo is ‘Do No Harm’, meaning no harm to the planet, no harm to the skin and no harm to each other. It is suitable for the most sensitive skins.

As such, Innoxa is 100% vegan, not tested on animals and uses biodegradable packing made from sugarcane.

Many of the ingredients are sustainably sourced, including shea butter gathered by an all-woman tribe in Ethiopia. Other sustainable ingredients are strawberries, chia seeds, pineapple, papaya, mallow flowers, cranberries, sweet almond oil, jacon juice, jojoba and peppermint, among others.

Alternative testing methods

DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care encourages and supports the scientific community’s efforts to move toward producing valid tests that do not include testing on animals, but rather the use of cultures, called ‘in vitro’ testing along with human ‘in vivo’ testing, as well as using predictive computer models.

Says Ursula Volbrecht of DermaFix: “Natural ingredients are used as often as possible.

Nature, cosmeceutical science and advanced technologies utilised by our laboratory partners have evolved to produce purer, more stable ingredients, giving benefit to the professional and consumer as products provide greater efficacy, as well as a longer usable active life. Safe preservatives help to keep micro-organisms like bacteria, mould, fungi and yeast from establishing themselves and multiplying in your products, leading to a host of complications which will not deliver the results as expected.”

When it comes to packaging, DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care opts to make use of airless pump packaging, helping to minimise product contamination whilst the product is in use. All packaging is recyclable and strong efforts have been made to keep excessive packaging like boxes to an absolute minimum, being kinder to the environment as paper comes from trees, which are not always sustainably grown.

online @ probeauty.

Have you checked out the latest issue of Salon International?

Packed full of inspiration, tips, tricks, and essential business articles Click here to see the latest edition

PRODUCT FOCUS

From nature

Spalicious body scrubs use 100% natural, biodegradable exfoliating particles. For general body exfoliation, Spalicious recommends its salt scrub, while for a more luxurious body treatment, there is the award-winning selfheating sugar scrub set in kaolin. A combination of salt and sugar is ideal for cellulite management, and for thicker skin, the pumice body scrub.

011 312 7840

Biomimetic peel

Scrub-adub-dub Regular exfoliation is one of the most important aspects of skincare, yet we mostly seem so focused on facial skincare that we forget about how beneficial it is to slough dead skin cells off body skin too. Here we look at some of the leading body exfoliators on the market

From RégimA, the Luxury Body Enhancer is an anti-ageing biomimetic peel + polisher with technologically advanced natural resurfacing actives, plus anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, protecting, nourishing and smoothing agents. Ingredients were carefully chosen to provide all important natural enzymatic exfoliation from tropical fruits, plus purified lactic acid.

011 615 2869

Fine crystal

DermaFix Ultra XFoliant is a natural fine crystal that allows for safe and self-controlled skin exfoliation on the body. It gently removes redundant skin cell build-up, leaving the skin brighter, luxuriously soft and revitalised.

UltraXFoliant can be used as required as part of your bathing/ showering routine by adding ¼ teaspoon into your DermaFix Cleanser of choice.

011 704 0555

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Fruity offering

Saloncare’s Exfoliating Polish is a cream-based scrub containing natural apricot granules, pomegranate and aloe to reduce irritation.

This product is also beneficial in preventing ingrown hair after waxing, as well as before tanning to increase even skin tone. It can also create good blood circulation if applied before cellulite treatments.

073 505 5936

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IT IS TIME TO REMOVE THE MASK. #hydrofacial #H2-glowbeauty

RENT TO BUY No long term contract (12-24 months) No hidden costs.

Pay one fixed amount per month.

Includes warranty & insurance.

Includes starter professional size products.

H2GLOW HAS YOUR CUSTOMERS SKIN & YOUR CLINIC COVERED WITH QUICK, SAFE & EFFECTIVE RESULTS. www.spaandsalonsolutions.com or karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

PRODUCT NEWS Universal product

Matis Cell-Skin is a universal moisturiser for all skin types and skin conditions that assists in preserving and protecting the environment of the skin’s stem cells. The formula is based on rose stem cells, combined with Edelweiss flower extract, known for its resistance to extreme weather conditions. This formulation has strong anti-oxidant properties to fight free radicals.

011 305 1600

Teen focus

The Six Mattifying Teen Moisturiser is suited for all skin types and protects against skin irritation and regulates sebum within the skin.

This product is formulated with hyaluronic acid to calm inflammation, prevent spots and blemishes.

Vitamin B3 soothes the skin, while argan oil heals.

Optimal level

From Guinot, the Hydra Summum Serum is concentrated in hyaluronic acid and enriched with Aquasilanol. An effective solution for treating dehydration, this serum delivers rapidly visible results for beautifully plump, comfortable and radiant skin. It reinforces the structure of the skin’s barrier to limit water loss and achieve an optimal level of hydration.

011 305 1600

In the market Our round-up of new products and treatments

Polypetide power

Praecursoria has found a way to re-programme old and weathered cells to repair themselves back into a healthy and youthful state, penetrating beyond the second layer to heal and regenerate damaged cells. The Stem Cell Cellula Serum features patented technology with over 90 regenerative polypeptides to restore skin structure, elasticity and firmness.

073 281 8050

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A symphony of ingredients

Serum Symphonique from Beauté Pacifique is a new generation hybrid hyaluronic serum that combines a powerful moisture boost with advanced anti-ageing triplepeptide technology. Its ingredients include two forms of active hyaluronic acid that provide your skin with immediate additional moisture. This serum provides a significantly elevated level of moisture throughout the day.

073 053 8830

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AESTHETIC MEDICINE

Pico Perfect

Karen Ellithorne looks at a trending new technology, the picosecond laser, as used to treat a variety of skin conditions

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

am sure you have all heard the common phrase – ‘dynamite comes in small packages’. Cue the pico, a unit prefix in the metric system denoting a factor of one trillionth and derived from the Spanish word ‘pico’, meaning ‘peak’, ‘beak’ or ‘little bit’.

Pico is the David in the ‘David and Goliath’ story, but this time for aesthetic skin treatments.

Picosecond laser technology can treat anything from skin imperfections, acne scarring, discoloration and premature ageing, which are some of the most common bugbears of anyone aiming for a flawless healthy complexion, whatever the age.

Then off course there are those spur of the moment decisions we often end up regretting, like tattoos we no longer want, or tattoos gone wrong.

As aesthetic doctors and qualified aestheticians, we all know many clients who are able to relate to these sentiments, making Picosecond laser technology a good investment for a busy aesthetic clinic.

Picosecond laser is fast, safe and noninvasive, with scientifically proven results in treating most problematic skin conditions. It is also one of the newest, revolutionary laser technologies available.

Ultra-fast pulse

Like all lasers, picosecond technology uses light energy to accomplish a specific task.

Picosecond lasers, however, emit the light at a much faster rate than conventional laser devices. A picosecond equals one trillionth of a

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LIKE ALL LASERS, PICOSECOND TECHNOLOGY uses LIGHT ENERGY to accomplish a specific task. PICOSECOND LASERS, however, EMIT THE LIGHT at a much FASTER RATE than conventional LASER DEVICES. second, whereas a Q-switched laser emits light in nanosecond pulses, or one billionth of a second.

In certain Pico lasers, the optical pulses come as fast as tens of picoseconds, which is why picosecond lasers can often also be referred to as ultra-fast or ultra-short pulse lasers. Additionally, picosecond lasers use 50% less energy than the more common Q-switched models.

Picosecond technology is currently regarded as one of the most advanced laser technologies available on the market. It delivers noticeable, permanent results in fewer sessions than comparable options and is safe, requires minimal downtime, and can be used across the entire face and body.

This technology allows for quick, effective, treatment of pigmented lesions and tattoos. It also stimulates elastin in the skin, thus assisting with rejuvenation.

Tolerable treatment

This treatment is very tolerable for the client due to the fact that the Picosecond technology works by sending ultra-short pulses of energy to the epidermis without any heat. The treatment itself however is still intense, shattering

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AESTHETIC MEDICINE

the most difficult to remove.

Picosecond technology allows for a high amount of energy to be delivered quickly. The rapid delivery of energy can reduce heat build-up, leading to fewer side-effects like painful blistering and down time. This also allows for the patient to have more regular treatment on the unwanted tattoo.

Acne scarring

Acne scarring can be challenging because of its tendency to resist many skin resurfacing treatment protocols.

Picosecond laser treatments for acne scarring tackle the skin condition in the following ways.

• The laser creates thermal injury on a target area.

• The injured skin triggers the body’s natural healing process.

• Collagen production is stimulated, repairing and remodelling the skin.

Photo by Angela Roma from Pexels

As THE TREATMENT is NOT PAINFUL and only SLIGHT DISCOMFORT may be experienced, the patient can ACHIEVE THEIR RESULTS faster, some patients possibly even in just ONE SESSION. particles of skin pigment, which are then eliminated naturally by the body. Because the technology is precise, it allows optimal results to be achieved.

Even though the pulses of energy are highly concentrated, with picosecond laser technology there is no risk of damage to the outer layer of the skin. The patient will also not experience any burning or discomfort during the treatment itself.

Tattoo removal

Results of studies have proven that picosecond pulses are found to be more effective in clearing black tattoo ink than nano pulses.

With subsequent advances of picosecond technology into several different wavelengths, the technology is now able to refine pigment targeting further. Due to the high specifications of this technology, the speed of the removal of tattoo pigments is achieved much more quickly, resulting in fewer treatments to achieve the desired result. The treatment can be used to remove unwanted tattoos from anywhere on the body While Picosecond lasers can be effective, no laser tattoo removal can strip the skin of all coloured ink pigments. Black and grey ink is the easiest to remove, closely followed by dark green. Yellow, purple and fluorescent hues are

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Skin discoloration

Hyperpigmentation is a common aesthetic source of concern for patients. Working with picosecond technology for these conditions is fairly new but promising results have been seen, including on the Fitzpatrick Scale higher phototypes of 4, 5 and 6.

The ability to target smaller particles of pigment and confine the thermal damage is a definite advantage.

Picosecond technology also minimises the risk of scarring from the procedure and allows for the clearing of discolorations in fewer sessions. Being able to toggle different wavelengths provides more flexibility for skin types as well.

As the treatment is not painful and only slight discomfort may be experienced, the patient can achieve their results faster, some patients possibly even in just one session.

The treatment itself can take anywhere between 5 to 30 minutes depending on the area of the body being treated.

Numbing of the skin prior to the treatment is not necessary unless the client is really hypersensitive.

The patient can immediately go back to work, with some patients possibly experiencing slight swelling and redness which will subside after a few hours. This can easily be covered with a tinted moisturiser or BB cream.

Picosecond laser truly is a revolutionary technology that can completely transform the look and feel of your patient’s skin. If you’re ready to say goodbye to acne scarring, sun damage, an unwanted tattoo, or another skin condition, then this new technology is definitely one to consider adding to your treatment menu.

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.

online @ probeauty.co.za

NAIL FILE ISSUE 46

OCTOBER

INGREDIENT INTELLIGENCE WHAT’S SAFE AND WHAT’S NOT

HANDY ITEM

CUTICLE OILS

PERFECT

EXECUTION TRADITIONAL & ALTERNATIVE FRENCH MANICURES

WELCOME

ears ago, long before I started writing about the beauty industry and when I was totally clueless about nails, a then colleague proudly showed me her freshly done set of nails. They were in what I now know to be a traditional French manicure style. I was aghast and couldn’t understand why anyone would spend money to have her nails specially done up to look like – unpainted nails. Since then I have a developed an appreciation for the ‘French’ and its wonderfully creative alternatives, as well as some understanding of the skill and artistry it takes to perform a good French manicure. In this issue we include an article by a talented nail artist (and salon owner), who really breaks down the technique of this perennially popular style.

We continue in our excellent and informative series on nail product chemistry, this time focusing on what ingredients are safe, and which aren’t. This should be essential knowledge for every nail tech.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Cover photo: Shutterstock

What’s INSIDE 49

Industry News Stay in the know

50

Ask the Experts

How to create the perfect French manicure

52

Spotlight on cuticle oils Essential salon item

54

Product Hub Latest launches

55

Step by Step

Sheer flower nail art

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Technical

Know your nail chemistry – Part 4

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Top Tech Talk 48

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NAIL NEWS Nails steal the show at Met Gala The biggest night of the international fashion calendar, the Met Gala, took place recently at New York’s Metropolitan Museum and was attended by a plethora of stars, many of whom sported some striking nail designs.

A singular case in point was British actress Cynthia Erivo, fresh from playing Aretha Franklin in ‘Genius: Aretha’. Erivo’s super-long, pointed talons were uniformly encrusted all over with clear crystals, each with blue and red tips, presumably to reference the American flag as befitting the evening’s ‘In America: A Lexicon of Fashion’ theme. The nails were so dazzling that they practically outshone her minimalist white outfit.

Nails possibly even longer than Erivo’s were seen on rap star Saweetie, whose coffinshaped claws were painted in a peach base and embellished with big, bold gems going halfway up the nails from the cuticles.

American teen singing sensation, Billie Eilish, regularly seen on the red carpet in grungy, oversized streetwear, surprised with a Marilyn Monroe-esque hairdo and a floaty, pale peach chiffon confection of a gown. Her long ‘squoval’ nails so perfectly matched her dress and pallor that it was difficult to see where the dress ended and her nails began.

American YouTube star, Emma Chamberlain, wore such an overwhelmingly sequined dress that she opted for more toned down, albeit decidedly lengthy and coffin-shaped, beige nails with small gold chains. The nail design was by Cuban celebrity manicurist, Mar Y Soul.

Actor, singer and songwriter, Ben Platt, gave the ladies a run for their money in the nail stakes – his longish, oval nails were decorated in various blue and white swirly designs, to perfectly match his denim bell-bottoms and cropped denim jacket. Also going the ‘swirly’ route, was actress Gabrielle Union, who had black and white swirls going across her beige nails.

British actress and model, Gemma Chan, chose to reference the late legendary American-Chinese Hollywood star, Anna May Wong. Nail stylist Betina Goldstein gave Chan’s nails black dagger crystals to resemble Wong’s pointy nails and a peridot green crystal reverse French to match her (Chan’s) skirt.

American poet and activist, Amanda Gorman, sported one of the most subdued but elegant nail looks of the night – silver chrome with a blue undertone to match her striking cobalt blue gown. Nails were by Yoko Sakakura.

Korean nail stylist, Sojin Oh, created an all gold chrome ‘Versace manicure’ for American singer and rapper, Lil Nas X, to match all three of his Met Gala outfits, one of which looked like ‘Star Wars’ robot, C3PO.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Cynthia Erivo (Instagram @cynthiaerivo)

Emma Chamberlain (Instagram @nailsbymarysoul)

Lil Nas X (Instagram @ sojinails)

Gemma Chan (Instagram @betina_goldstein)

Billie Eilish (Instagram @billieeilish)

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BUSINESS TIPS

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

How do I go about creating the perfect French manicure?

For us to understand the French manicure we need to look at the origin of the French tip. Yes, you guessed it – the French tip comes from France and was created in 1975 by Jeff Pink, who was an American beauty supplier and CEO of Orly International. However, it did not start life as the French tip that we know today, as the smile line was created with a minimal curve and was mostly done in nail polish.

Today, we have reached the pinnacle of the

French manicure from a creative aspect. Thank goodness for that because the sky is the limit when it comes to colour and the smile line, allowing ever single customer to step out in style with her own creative set, not being constrained by the old rules. This allows us nail stylists to be more daring.

What products are needed?

As we all know, we have a huge range of products available to us today to recreate the iconic French look.

Most spas will use the nail polish French manicure for minimal wear and easy removal, and this can also be copied at home for any lady who likes the fresh look. Salons, on the other hand, like to use more advanced products, such as acrylic, gel or poly gel for a longer wear.

Every single traditional French manicure will consist of white for the tip and then, depending on each individual’s preference, you will either use a clear, pink or nude to round off the look.

This will be if you are looking to recreate the iconic look. However, if you are more daring and desire something more vivid, you will replace the white with your desired colour, glitter or art that you want to encapsulate.

Every single TRADITIONAL FRENCH MANICURE will consist OF WHITE FOR THE TIP and then, DEPENDING ON each INDIVIDUAL’S PREFERENCE, you will either USE A CLEAR, pink OR NUDE to round off THE LOOK.

What tools are needed?

This depends on what product you are using. If you are using polish, you will need your two colours (white and pink), French line stickers and some acetone for correction. When using acrylic, you will need your two colours of polymer and a file to shape your smile line into a crisp curve.

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BUSINESS TIPS

Something that is trending right now is the French cutter, which is available for purchase.

This tool can also be used with poly gel. My tip for you would be to learn from the beginning to create your smile line without any sort of ‘cutter’ as it wastes a lot of product and you don’t have full control of your set. You will also be constrained to the shape of your cutter and not all clients have the shame shape nail bed.

If using gel to create your French manicure, I prefer using a liner brush, but you can also use a slanted brush – called an angled brush. This technique takes time and a lot of practise, so be patient and take your time when practising.

NAILS SHOULD under no circumstances BE DIFFERENT LENGTHS, as this is so UNPLEASANT TO THE EYE, with smile lines that have DIFFERENT HEIGHTS and start from TWO DIFFERENT DEPTHS. It makes the SMILE LINE look off balance.

polish, then removing the sticker and topping it off with a clear or transparent or pink polish.

What are some common mistakes to avoid?

There is a rule of thumb that the French smile line should not be larger than a quarter of the body of the nail bed.

Your nails can look tacky very fast when your nails are super long and your French tip exceeds the width of the body of the nail bed, making your manicure looking off balance.

Nails should under no circumstances be different lengths, as this is so unpleasant to the eye, with smile lines that have different heights and start from two different depths. It makes the smile line look off balance.

Smile lines with wiggles, or that are crooked, won’t result in a crisp, beautiful and rounded look.

If you use a transparent colour on the nail bed, then it will be visible to the naked eye should the client bump or bruise their nails.

Another mistake is to use the wrong shade of pink or nude on the client. Always be aware of her skin tone.

Doing a French manicure on bitten nails without extending them first won’t look good.

Using too many colours on the manicure will make the set overwhelming to the senses.

Incorrect shaping of the nails can lead your manicure looking strange.

What are some interesting alternatives to the traditional pink and white?

What is the correct technique?

I believe this question could be answered differently depending on who you ask. When using acrylic, my absolute favourite is the reverse French as it allows you to create beautiful crisp smile lines and is absolutely full proof with some practise. This is where you apply the body of the nail first, followed by the free edge. So, you start with your colour and go straight into creating a smile line, waiting for it to dry and then filing it for a precise look. If using a French cutter, you create the body and press it into the product with the desired smile line. This technique can also be used with poly gel.

When using gel, you get the freedom to create many different smile lines depending on your client’s preference, starting from a straight line going deeper into your cuticles to make the smile line deeper.

If working with nail polish, techs normally start by using a French line sticker to apply the white

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In 2021 we have reached a no limit zone where techs’ creativity can be limitless. We have a variety of C-curves now; we have the natural to almond to square shapes; and we have the side line French or V-line, as well as the deep smile line.

One of my personal favourites is a glitter tip as it just brings some sparkle to any outfit. But of course the new ombre is pure inspiration from the classic French manicure design.

I believe that the reason why so many of us love the iconic French manicure look and why it has not faded away for the past 35 years is because of its crisp clean look which matches every outfit. And let’s face it, I have yet to meet a man who is not ‘gaga’ over a French set. For myself, I love it because it is not visible to the eye when my nails are grown out, so it allows me a little more time to enjoy my beautiful set of nails.

Candice Rabie is the owner of Beauty Goddess Salon. Rabie’s passion for nails stems from wanting to uplift her clients’ souls. She regards nails as art and as an extension of her personality and the state of mind she is in at any given moment. Email candice@beautygodess.co.za DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send you question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

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PRODUCT FOCUS

Amazing almonds

Suitable for all nail types, the Bio Sculpture Almond Oil is infused with almond oil and extracts to combat dry nails and cuticles. The product also contains jojoba, avocado and vitamin e oils, to rehydrate nails and keep cuticles supple. This oil should be applied to dry cuticles and massaged in well.

051 943 0377

Spotlight on cuticle oils Essential in treatments and also for clients’ home care, cuticle oils and creams are non-negotiable ‘must haves’ in any salon’s arsenal Care pen

LCN’s Blue Ocean Nail Hardener strengthens and hardens cuticles and nail plates due to the calcium and biotin it contains. Calcium supports a healthy nail growth, while biotin activates the metabolism and promotes the regeneration of the nail bed. Nails are strengthened from the inside.

010 593 3293

Lovely lavender

Conveniently packaged in a handbag size roller ball container, the nourishing Spalicious Lavender Cuticle Oil is enriched with vitamin E and sweet almond to prevent moisture loss and soften the cuticles.

The high concentration of lavender oil also adds an antiseptic and antiinflammatory effect.

011 312 7840

Beautiful blend

With a special blend of natural oils like jojoba and almond, the Calgel Cuticle Oil nourishes the cuticles and prevents cracking of the skin. The oil penetrates the skin to treat dryness and soften the skin.

011 624 1101

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All-rounder

The 3in1Cuticle Cream from Zsa Zsa Nails is an antiseptic product that treats cuts, wounds, and skin, while softening the cuticle. It is rich in vitamin E and thus protects against free radicals and other environmental damaging effects.

Furthermore, it has a high water content and provides anti-ageing benefits to keep the skin hydrated.

076 906 1741

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

WELCOME TO BIO SCULPTURE

Since childhood, Bio Sculpture founder Elmien Scholtz has been fascinated by beautiful nails. This fascination became her passion. After completing her studies at the CIDESCO Beauty Academy, Elmien opened her first salon.

Unable to find any premium quality nail care products, she continued her studies in the USA, attending training in artificial nail systems. Elmien came to the conclusion that if she wanted a leading nail care product to meet all the requirements, it would have to be developed from the ground up.

Her goal was not only set on beautiful nails, but also on nail health. By consulting with the best scientists in their respective fields and applying the latest technologies available, Bio Sculpture Gel was born from a humble beginning with passion, hard work and the faith of a true pioneer. Today it is the leading nail care solution in the professional market.

The Bio Sculpture head office is situated in the heart of South Africa in the small town of Clocolan, playing an important role in the socio-economic environment and surrounded by the breathtaking African landscape. This 3000sqm ultra-modern factory is an environmentally friendly building that optimises natural lighting, with regulated ventilation systems and selfsupportive water storage. The factory is ISO 22716 certified for Good Manufacturing Practices and is managed under ISO 9001 Quality Management Systems.

Bio Sculpture’s warm-heartedness is not only tangible in the factory, but is extended to the global Bio Sculpture Family.

Our Purpose To provide quality products and professional training, thereby empowering nail technicians to offer healthy and fashionable nail care systems, guided by an ethical business approach.

Fun Facts 1. We are a training based system Bio Sculpture’s professional gel products are available to nail technicians through brand training. As a training-based system, Bio Sculpture endorses the highest standard globally and produces award winning nail technicians worldwide. Bio Sculpture certified training courses are internationally recognised within our brand systems.

2. We are proudly South African Bio Sculpture was created by South Africans, in South Africa, for the world.

3. We have a large colour range Bio Sculpture has a wide range of highly pigmented, longlasting, fashionable and everyday wear colour shades.

Each range has its own unique colours and textures, adding to the ever growing colour spectrum.

4. We are the original, long wear nail system In the 30 years that Bio Sculpture has been established, we have stood the test of time and continue to thrive in our industry.

5. We distribute to over 40 different countries worldwide 6. We have 7 different product lines BIOGEL, EVO, GEMINI, ETHOS, BI-OLYGEL, LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS and CARMEN PERFUME 7. We have Vegan Friendly options 8. We are cruelty free

CONTACT Email: online@biosculpture.com Website: https://www.biosculpture.com/

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IN THE MARKET

Reds rule

In the 30 years that Bio Sculpture has been established, the brand has determined the most popular colours in the market and now introduces the EVO Classics #4 collection. It includes Vicky (chocolate glitter); Ruby (intense red); Valentina (crimson); Zoey (subdued red with a hint of burnt orange); Amore (fire engine red); Tessa (hot pink); and Paula (coral glitter).

051 943 0377

Product Hub Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails Multi-functional

LCN’s Super Gel 3 in 1 is the answer to all nail designers’ wishes, as bonding, sculpting and sealing are all contained in one product. Easy application and convincing results save time and effort. This product is suitable for extensions with tip or paper form and can be pinched and sculpted. The gel is 100% vegan and solvent free.

010 593 3293

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Line it up

The Calgel Plus Art Liner Gel is a unique, pigmented gel that has multiple uses for drawing within the Calgel Plus range. As its name suggests, the gel should not be used for colour application, only for drawing art. The white art liner gel has a higher viscosity than the other art liner gel colours in the range.

011 624 1101

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STEP BY STEP

Sheer flower

nail art

Just in time for the summer months, this pretty floral nail design was created by Andrea Smith

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Apply a base layer and cure. On a palette, mix a small amount of your choice of colour into some base gel to create a sheer colour (I used Evo Amber).

Apply one layer of your sheer colour to the nail and cure.

Using a high colour intensity white gel (I used Biogel Myrrh), create the petals of your flowers, leaving a gap in between each petal and cure.

Apply another layer of your sheer colour over the whole nail and cure.

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Using the same white gel as in Step 2, add petals in between your previously created petals and cure. (You should still be able to see the first petals in between the new petals.)

Using a dotting tool, add dots to the centre of the nail using the colour gel that was used to create the sheer colour, as well as a glitter gel for an added sparkle (I used Evo Amber and Rene).

Seal in the design with a gloss top coat and cure.

Step 7

Detail the outline of the petals with the same white gel used in Step 2. Double cure, cleanse and leave as top surface nail art.

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Andrea Smith is an award-winning nail artist and the salon owner of Forever Lavish Nails & Beauty, as well as a Bio Sculpture educator.

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TECHNICAL

Know your nail chemistry Part 4 Continuing her focus on ingredients, in this article Sonette van Rensburg examines what is safe and what is not

e are back with yet more insightful and vitally important information and facts about your nail products and their chemistry. It is our hope that this series of articles has shared and instilled some pertinent information in you as a nail professional, to ensure that you understand not only how your products work, but that you are observing best practices at all times.

As we learnt in the previous article, most nail products all form part of the acrylate family and are classed as possibly being harmful and have the potential to cause allergies. However, this does not mean that they are completely unsafe for use and that most people will automatically develop an allergy to them. It simply means that

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we need to ensure extra diligence by using our products in the way they are meant to be used and in the way in which we have been taught to.

In this article we will be talking about which ingredients in your nail enhancement systems are considered safe or unsafe and why. We will also go more in depth as to why nail products are causing allergies. This is an ongoing and leading concern in our industry at present, in fact it’s only getting worse.

Cosmetic products are generally some of the safest in the world and in most countries, every ingredient must be approved for use and have a recommended upper limit of the percentage used; that means a specific ingredient should not exceed a certain level within a given quantity of product.

Let’s take a look at some facts about certain nail product ingredients which are deemed perfectly safe and those that have received a bad rap and possibly rightfully so.

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TECHNICAL

fortunately, not so commonly used nowadays, except in really cheap, no name brand or white label products.

Although there have been many other claims about MMA, the major problem with it is that it has poor adhesion and is the reason why the natural nail plate has to be filed with a low grit file for it to adhere. MMA also has no flexibility and is very hard and brittle, thus breaking easily and damaging the natural nail plate. Furthermore, it is also far more difficult to remove, overall making it an unsafe product to use.

COSMETIC PRODUCTS are generally some of THE SAFEST IN THE WORLD and in most countries EVERY INGREDIENT must be APPROVED FOR USE and HAVE A recommended UPPER LIMIT of the PERCENTAGE USED. HEMA (Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate) EMA (Ethyl Methacrylate)

EMA has great adhesion properties, resists cracking and applies smoothly. It is the major ingredient present in most good quality monomers today. Monomer is the main component in a liquid & powder system, with EMA considered to be a perfectly safe ingredient when used correctly. Monomers are advanced, complex blends of high-level ingredients.

Along with EMA, there are also other ingredients that are added such as: inhibitors (to preserve shelf life); stabilisers (for colour stability); Catalysts (to regulate setting time); UV (absorbers – to prevent yellowing); and cross linkers (which assist with providing strength and durability).

It is vitally important to know and understand that not all monomers are created the same and will have different quantities of these ingredients, possibly additional ingredients such as flow modifiers, wetting agents and dyes, among others, that will make them unique in their formula and allow them to react in different ways. This is why there is no such thing as a universal monomer IMPORTANT NOTE: When monomer is used with its matching polymer powder, they work together and complement one another to form a tough, long lasting, durable structure and enhancement. This is why when systems are not used together, they don’t perform in the way they should and problems occur. This is called system science, therefore we should use systems together for professional results.

MMA (Methyl Methacrylate)

There has been a lot of controversy about MMA over the years. This is a monomer which is,

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HEMA is a colourless viscous liquid and a monomer that polymerises quickly and easily. It is used in many UV gel products as well as liquid & powder produThere have been many questions around this ingredient lately, resulting in a bit of panic as to whether it is safe to use or not. The major issue associated with this ingredient is that it has been linked with causing allergies and people blaming it as the main culprit, when often the culprit is in fact improper working practices.

Marian Newman of NailKnowledge explains the facts about this ingredient: “Although HEMA has been identified as a known allergen, it isn’t the only one by far. The only solution is an allergy test by a dermatologist to identify the cause. Changing brands is not the answer. Moving to a HEMA free product is not the answer. Identifying the cause of the allergy is.

“HEMA’s upper limit is 35%. But even at low levels it still needs to be used safely. There are many HEMA free brands on the market now and, if you as a professional and many of your clients have developed an allergy that is known to be HEMA. If the situation is worrying you then this could be the answer but not if HEMA isn’t the problem. If you’re not working cleanly and safely, the allergies to other ingredients will eventually occur for some. Not if, but when!”

It is now illegal to sell UV cured products containing HEMA and di-HEMA in retail stores in the UK and Europe as it should be for professional use only and rightfully so.

Allergies and irritations

This is a topic we have tackled many times, however with proper education and safe working practices, allergies and irritations should not be as common and prevalent.

Remember that an irritation is temporary – once the irritant is removed, it goes away. An allergy is for life, causing the immune system to respond when it comes into contact with and recognises the allergen, causing unwanted conditions to occur.

Many nail products have the potential to cause allergies – nail polishes, nail enhancement products and even creams or lotions. Making groundbreaking news with

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TECHNICAL

“Due to nail professionals working with potentially allergic substances such as uncured gels or the tacky residue, when the tacky residue is mixed with the oily components of the products, they could easily penetrate the skin.

“Why do we use oils? It is obvious that we use them to prevent water evaporation from the area we have worked on when performing procedures known to be harmful, such as abrasions, solvents and peelings, all leading to dryness – the first sign of a disrupted skin barrier and possible skin inflammation. It is therefore advisable to use nail and cuticle oils only after washing your hands with soap and water to remove any residue or dust from uncured product to prevent them from penetrating the skin along with the oils.”

Points to remember

THERE ARE SAFE and unsafe LEVELS OF EXPOSURE and it is VITALLY IMPORTANT to adhere to SAFE LEVELS OF USE and to always follow BEST PRACTICES when it comes to the handling of ALL NAIL PRODUCTS. recent studies, nail and cuticle oils have also been found to be contributing to allergies. The problem lies not so much with the actual oils, but rather with how they contribute.

Vitaly Solomonov, dermatologist and industry expert for NailKnowledge, explains it perfectly well: “It is important to note that the components of nail products are not the allergens themselves, as true allergens are actually always proteins. The components of UV gels, nail polishes or acrylics are not proteins. Why then are they considered to be potential allergens? The key word here is ‘potential’. The substances that can be potentially harmful for your skin have their own name – haptens – and these are substances of different classes. They usually have a small molecular mass and can penetrate the skin’s barrier. They are not considered allergens unless they come into contact with the proteins that are found on our own skin. In this case, they form the compound that becomes an allergen for us. Most haptens are ‘oil loving’ molecules, which means that they can be dissolved in oils. This in turn helps them to penetrate the skin where they meet the lipid bilayers of our own stratum corneum and mix with them too.

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There are safe and unsafe levels of exposure and it is vitally important to adhere to safe levels of use and to always follow best practices when it comes to the handling of all nail coating products. This is because they are not meant for use on the skin, they should therefore be used carefully to avoid touching the skin and by following through with some important guidelines, as below.

• Use reputable brands that are for professional use only.

• Understand what the issues are, what causes them and know how to recognise them and how to overcome them.

• Always use matched systems which have been formulated to work together.

• Follow best practices and use your products correctly, safely and according to Manufacturers’ Instructions.

• Observe good and proper housekeeping, hygiene and universal sanitation practices.

If the problem related to allergies is continuously overlooked and if everyone does not stand together to educate our industry, it could continue to impose a risk and have implications on us all. This issue can be controlled and managed for the sake of the industry and all involved. As a nail professional, you should be buying into a professional brand and range with proven safety and educational support. Be knowledgeable, well informed and know the facts.

Thanks to Marian Newman and Vitaly Solomonov of NailKnowledge for their valuable contribution to this article. For more in depth information go to www.nailknowledge.org

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 30 years and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands.

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Q&A

Top Tech Talk

NailFile speaks to multi international award-winning nail artist and salon owner, Candida De Lange, about the dynamics of participating in both local and international nail competitions Congratulations on winning the recent Calgel Annual Nail Art competition. What was the inspiration for your design?

The theme of the competition was ‘Cartoon’ and I actually entered two pieces. Both were considered winning sets, but the Calgel team decided on my 1980s inspired piece as the winner. I’m an 80s baby and these were just some of my favorite cartoon characters, including ‘The Simpsons’, ‘The Smurfs’, ‘The Flintstones’ and ‘Peanuts’.

ENTER COMPETITIONS REGARDLESS of your SKILL LEVEL and don’t be too JUDGMENTAL on your OWN WORK because at the end of the day, we are our own WORST CRITIC. Why do you have such a huge passion for entering nail competitions?

I find that most of my clients are restricted with extreme nail art due to their working environments, so doing the competitions allow me the creative freedom to go wild and think outside of the box. You never stop learning and you should never stop challenging yourself. Nail competitions allow me to do just that.

Are most of the competitions that you’ve entered online competitions?

Sadly, since COVID-19 hit, most of my latest competitions have been online. But I am also part of an international competition team based in the UK and have done a few live competitions and also a few online ones where I had to record my process in real time and send my piece in to be judged.

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Q&A How do you control your nerves during live competitions?

I don’t think you ever have control of your nerves, but the best advice is to work on a model who you are 100% confident working with and who has amazing hands and nail beds. This helps a lot with the technical side of things. If you are doing a mixed media competition, then practice random designs and try to use various mediums at home in your spare time so no matter what they throw at you on the day, you will feel slightly prepared.

success to market your salon?

ONE SHOULD ALWAYS be LEARNING NEW THINGS as the industry GROWS AND CHANGES (i.e. new products and techniques) ALL THE TIME. So, as nail techs, we to need GROW AND CHANGE also.

What advice would you give to anyone wanting to enter both online and live competitions?

Practise, practise, practice! Enter competitions regardless of your skill level and don’t be too judgmental on your own work because at the end of the day, we are our own worst critic. It’s supposed to be fun and challenging so don’t be scared to enter.

How do you use your competition

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To be honest, I hate advertising my competition success when marketing my work. I am from a fairly small area so some of the other techs in my suburb feel that when I do mention it, that I’m bragging and they have made their opinions publicly known. My normal salon sets speak for themselves, but my regular clients almost force me to mention my awards. They have reassured me that every single time I have placed in a competition, that it is an achievement and should be mentioned for everyone to celebrate with me. It’s like putting it on my CV. So lately I do mention that I am a multi international award-winning nail artist and I hope that this will let any future clients know that I have a vast skill set when it comes to nail art, and that I’m always willing to try something new or be challenged with designs.

Have you noticed any differences between local and international competitions in terms of how they are run and judged?

Yes, absolutely. Internationally it is a lot more standardised and they are extremely strict with rules and requirements. If you even borderline skip or miss something, you are disqualified. Very seldom do they leave any judging up to public opinion and they always have a few judges from different fields within the beauty industry to judge on a point based system. You also get your feedback reports at the end of the competition so you can see where you can improve.

International competitions are also quite a big deal, some go on for weeks or even months and they have huge expos and awards ceremonies. There are international competitions running almost every month. In South Africa we are not quite at that level yet. We also don’t have as many competitions running throughout the year and they are quite hard to find to be honest. I really do hope we get

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Q&A

to the international level. There are so many incredible nail artists in South Africa who are looking for a competition platform to show off their talent.

What award/s are you most proud of?

My most favorite has to be a UK breast cancer competition that I won – I didn’t even realise how big a competition it actually was until I won it. I was featured live on ‘The Mel & Sam Show’, where they did a live reveal of the winner and it led to my first interview with ‘Scratch’ magazine. This also got my name out there in the international nail industry and from that my international footprint was created. An incredible UK educator, multi award winning nail artist, judge and mentor, Lauren McBride, started following my online presence and work and contacted me in July this year, asking me to be one of her brand ambassadors and online educators.

Why do you think your nail art

was all about South Africa and the industry and how it compares to the industry and support I have received in the UK and internationally so far.

When did the nail bug first bite you?

In 2016 I did my first nail and make-up course and I’ve not stopped since then. I take part in any courses or workshops I can get my hands on. One should always be learning new things as the industry grows and changes (i.e. new products and techniques) all the time. So, as nail techs, we to need grow and change also.

I definitely APPROACH MY WORK with a ‘MORE IS MORE’ and not ‘A LESS IS MORE’ ATTITUDE. What is it about nails that appeals to you?

I am completely in love with extreme shapes and lengths and obviously I love nail art. But if I’m being honest, I love how my clients feel after coming to me. It’s more than just nails. The confidence they walk out with is great and the stress weighing them down when they walk in versus the lightness they feel after a ‘nail therapy session’ makes my heart happy. Even knowing if only for that one moment in their day they are happier, stress free and feeling amazing.

There is so much we all go through in life and so much we want to change, but it just seems to be overwhelming and this negativity effects out health. So, small acts of self-love and self-care are both mentally and emotionally important to maintaining good health.

Do the majority of your clients request nail art?

resonates with judges?

I try to think outside of the box and offer them a lot to look at. Furthermore, I try and fill my pieces not just with a main image – I take into account the background, middle and foreground, as well as the actual display. It’s the small little details, highlights and lowlights that make all the difference. I definitely approach my work with a ‘more is more’ and not ‘a less is more’ attitude. But this is not for everyone and it’s hard to tell what the judges look for as they all approach their score sheets differently

Please tell us about being featured in ‘Scratch’ magazine.

I have been featured three times in ‘Scratch’. They ran an article about my breast cancer awareness competition winning entry and then they did a tech spotlight on me and my salon. The last feature

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I would say 90% of my clients want nail art. For the most part it is simple designs, but this is mainly due to their work restrictions. I do find that my clients go all out for special occasions, such as Halloween, Christmas, birthdays, weddings, etc.

What prompted you to open your own salon?

I was mobile at first, but let’s be honest – South Africa is not the safest place for a female to be driving around to clients’ homes at all hours of the day. Apart from the fact that I had a few scary instances, I also have way too much product to carry to and from clients’ houses. I have about eight different brands I work with, depending on what my clients prefer. Furthermore, I am able to do any nail medium (acrylic, gel, silk, polygel, dip etc). My equipment setup takes too much time. Where I stay, about 80% of my clients are within a 15 minute drive to my studio as I am quite central. About 20% of my clients drive between one and two hours to get to me.

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