Professional Beauty SA

September 2018

www.probeauty.co.za

SHINE

ON Sun protection

Rite of

passage

From therapist to aesthetician

incorporating

A

wrinkle in time

Treating menopausal skin

www.dekalaser.com Making World Class Lasers for 30 years

Treats

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19

31

48

In this issue...

Regulars

Spa Focus

7 Industry news

31 Going green in your spa

46 Blazing days ahead

Local and international news

48 Crowning glory

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

56 In the market

All the latest launches

Business 19 Ask the Experts

All your questions answered

21 Insider

Tracking the industry with stats

23 In what form of entity should I trade?

Different trading entities

Making your spa environmentally friendly

32 The grand revival of a beauty business

36 The age of possibilities Treating menopausal skin

43 The golden touch

52 Enough to make your (body) hair fall out

Hair removal devices

Revive Wellness Spa

Special Features

Sun protection products

Medical Aesthetics 49 A real aesthetic make-over

How to become a medical aesthetic therapist

Black Pearl 24k Gold Lux Holistic Massage review

45 Going the Hollywood way

SL Lasers’ Hollywood Treatment review

26 The power of sleep for you and your business

Improving sleep in the workplace

Interview 28 Talking to…Stav Dimitriadis

CEO of Twincare International speaks

21 online @ probeauty.co.za

2 Welcome

W

hen working on the September issue of Professional Beauty one always has one thing top of mind – that this is the issue that will be showcased at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show, the largest event of its kind in Africa.

In this showcase issue we take a look at one of the biggest sectors in skincare (if not the biggest), namely the treating of ageing skin, and specifically menopausal skin. This is the time in a woman’s life when she will notice accelerated signs of ageing on her skin, with its suddenly and massively depleted levels of collagen and elastin. If that wasn’t bad enough, other annoying skin conditions may develop, such as adult acne and oiliness. Talk about adding insult to injury! However, one woman’s despair is another salon’s bonanza in terms of the opportunity to offer an on-going series of treatments to mature clients, utilising the best in professional skincare, to help address these skin issues. A surefire revenue generator!

Hair removal has always been a huge segment of the beauty industry and it became even bigger with the introduction, many moons ago, of energy-based hair removal devices. The earlier incarnation of these devices had their limitations, such as being contra-indicated for the darker Fitzpatrick skin types, but the newest crop of devices are able to treat these skin types. And, whether one opts for a stand-alone hair removal device, or a multi-platform device that includes a plethora of other applications, it’s always important to approach reputable and licensed distributors and to check that the devices are appropriately registered.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA

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HAIR REMOVAL DEVICES • MENOPAUSAL SKIN • SUN PROTECTION

‘Insights from the dr. brandt skincare’s panel of experts’ and their individual medical practices and research — from patients with concerns just like yours — inform and influence the development of new dr. brandt® products.

Sept 2018

Publisher Mark Moloney

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Managing Director Yolanda Knott

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Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970 Sales Manager Alexandra Norvall SHINE

ON Sun protection

Rite of

passage

From therapist to aesthetician

A

wrinkle in time

Treating menopausal skin

On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970

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7 News

News Big growth predicted for aesthetics market Currently worth $53.3bn for both service and product revenue, the global medical aesthetics market (surgical and non-surgical) is expected to grow at a CAGR (Compound Annual Growth Rate) of 5.5% over the next five years to hit $73.6 billion in 2022, according to analysis by Kelly Scientific.

The report further indicates that non-invasive procedures presently generate approximately $16.7bn per annum and will grow at a CAGR of

4.5% over the coming five years.

Nonsurgical treatments lead the way across the globe and are broadly classified by Kelly Scientific into three major categories: injectable products, energy based devices, and active cosmetics.

Injectable products, including neurotoxins and dermal fillers, have the largest market share, followed by energy-based devices such as lasers, RF (radiofrequency) and IPL (Intense Pulsed Light).

Lash lifts and extensions threaten mascrara

New company president for Elemis Noella Gabriel, known to South African stockists of luxury UK spa brand, Elemis, as its iconic director of product and treatment development, has been promoted to company president, with immediate effect.

Gabriel, who has over 30 years of experience in the skincare industry, will now focus more on the brand’s US business following its partnership with American beauty retailer, Ulta Beauty, while continuing to oversee and manage the UK side.

News in pictures

Professional Beauty UK reports that a new study by Business of Fashion (BoF) states that the convenience and quality of lash lifts and extensions is threatening the popularity and use of mascara.

According to Euromonitor International, while beauty companies sold $8.1bn worth of mascara last year, growth is expected to slow to 2% through 2021, from 4% in the past three years.

The BoF report quotes Sarah Jindal, senior beauty analyst at Mintel, who states: “People are willing to invest a little bit more in going and getting a lash lift or extensions because they know it then makes their routine in the morning that much easier. The comfort level with consumers to go and get these different kinds of treatments and services has definitely reached an all-time high.”

South Africa’s lash extension market has certainly grown over the past few years, with many different professional brands now on offer. The market recently saw the introduction of lash lift treatments.

Cosmeceuticals include skin care, eye care, skin lightening and scar care products. North America accounts for about 45% of the global market, followed by the EU. The above information was accessed from the Kelly Scientific report – ‘Global Medical Aesthetics Industry: Injectables, Energy-Based Devices, Cosmeceuticals, Cosmetic Surgery, Facial Aesthetics, Implants, Cosmetic Tourism. Market Analysis & Forecast to 2022’.

Sorbet salon group founder, Ian Fuhr, recently launched his second book, ‘The Soul of Sorbet’ at Exclusive Books in Hyde Park, Johannesburg.

Pictured are Fuhr (left) and radio personality and Sorbet store owner, Aki Anastasiou.

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New vision for SAAHSP Along with ushering in a new board of directors effective until 2020, SAAHSP, the Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry, is committed to becoming more visible in the industry.

Says newly appointed SAAHSP President, Elna Hagen: “We will be providing support to the industry in terms of quality training, education and workshops, as well as regulating the industry standard according to our code of ethics. SAAHSP

comprises an accessible and interactive team, so salon owners, therapists and product distributors are welcome to contact us with queries, suggestions and comments in general.”

Hagen also serves as SAAHSP’s CPD (Continuing Professional Development) & Designation Advisor, with Feroza Fakir appointed SAAHSP Vice-President.

In addition, Fakir is the Professional Body Coordinator for Educational Bodies and the Services SETA (Sector Education & Training

Industrial app launches

Dubbed the new ‘Uber’ of beauty, the Instaglam Express app is now available following four years of development.

Conceived by two hairdressers, Natasha Summers and Chris Fisher of Share Salon in Johannesburg, Instaglam Express allows users to order a make-up artist, hairdresser, nail technician, barber or massage therapist to wherever they are, at the click of a button.

There are two parts to the app – the Professional / IGX side for service providers in the industry, and the Consumer side. Both are available in Android and IOS. “We regard ourselves as a networking partner in the industry,” says Fisher. “Instaglam Express has

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created a virtual workspace from where people can build a business.”

Summers adds: “In developing the app, we acknowledge the time-strapped mom, the business woman, the corporate executive and anyone in need of on-demand services.”

Service providers register for Instaglam Express and pay a small monthly subscription. Instaglam Express has a big focus on safety in that the consumer cannot use the device without verification. When a consumer posts a booking – they load their credit card and then the system does another check to see if it’s the right person and then the service provider sees their profile and vice versa.

Authority) Representative.

Other SAAHSP board members are: Jo Cohen (Professional Body Coordinator – CPD & Designations); Sandra Rath (Committees Membership Advisor); Carmen Dantu (Education); Leverne King (Professionalism & Ethics); Miranda Forrester (HR); Tendai Ngorima (PR); Sonette van Rensburg (Nail Professionals); Joelette Theron (Company Secretary); and Sandy Fuhr (Coopted CIDESCO Representative).

Thus far service providers in several Johannesburg suburbs have signed up for Instaglam Express, including Woodmead, Sandton Rosebank, Randburg, Honeydew and Krugersdorp, Boksburg. Bedfordview and Kempton Park. To date there have been over 400 downloads from people using the app.

News in pictures

News

8

Laura Masini (left), international make-up artist and educator for RVB LAB The Make Up, visited South African distributor, Orleans Cosmetics, recently to launch the HD Lifting Effect Foundation, the Volumising Eye Brow Fix and the Comfort Matt Lipstick. She is pictured with Orleans’ Maritsa Heath.

13

treatment offers and prices were created with the Port Elizabeth market in mind.

Van Rooyen notes that the taking over of the existing spa required a big adjustment as Amani introduced a completely new menu, treatment protocols and home care products.

“We dedicated a two-week induction programme presented by the Amani Spa Training Manager, followed by specialised training of all the product houses we stock. Training forms a very important part of the Amani culture and is something we continuously offer at all our properties throughout the year.

“Overall the changes in the spa have been very well received by the hotel and guests,” comments Van Rooyen. “The spa has been showcased in the main hotel lobby with a promotional banner, in the hotel rooms with tented cards and featured on all the hotel’s social media platforms. We did a soft launch introducing our Signature Treatments at a 2-for-1 offer.”

News in pictures

As part of its quest to continuously expand its brand and partner with like-minded professional entities, the Amani Spa Group recently made the decision to take over the preexisting spa at the Radisson Blu Hotel in Port Elizabeth.

Says Amani Spas operations manager, Julie Van Rooyen: “After being appointed the preferred Spa Operator for the Radisson Group operated by Carlson Rezidor, this was a clear choice for us as the first location for an Amani Spa in the Eastern Cape. As a franchise spa, it is run by the hotel but managed by Amani Spas, providing them with the support, guidance and expertise associated with our brand,” explains Van Rooyen.

The Amani team executed a soft revamp on the existing spa’s décor, look and feel and introduced gentle hues of grey, white and marine-green.

“It has a fresh, modern and luxurious feel to it which draws its inspiration from the surrounding environment – beautiful ocean and beaches,” says Van Rooyen.

A new reception desk was installed, as well as additional retail display areas and a multifunctional nail lounge and relaxation area.

While the treatment menu offers the same treatments as in other Amani City Spas, selected

News

First Amani spa in Eastern Cape opens

L&N Marketing, distributor of the Sans Soucis and Janssen Cosmetics brands, recently held an open day for stockists to mark its move to new premises at the Isle of Houghton Office Park in Partktown, Johannesburg.

Pictured is L&N Marketing founder, Natalie Grigst.

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News

14

NuSkinnovation launches franchise Having opened the original NuSkinnovation salon in Southdowns, Centurion in July 2016, sole owner, Nicolene Pelster, will now franchise the brand.

Says Pelster: “NuSkinnovation will offer multiple franchise solutions, ranging from medical aesthetic clinics to purely aesthetic clinics. The responsibility of involving a medical practitioner will rest on the franchisee,

depending on the franchise option taken.”

As the heart of NuSkinnovation runs on Ellipse and Fotona SWT/ Laser Systems, a trained Ellipse/ Fotona specialist will be appointed at franchised salons, in cooperation with a doctor.

Pelster notes that her decision to franchise was prompted by having seen so many life changing procedures conducted at her salon

and having personally witnessed clients’ happiness. “I felt obligated to pay it forward by opening these possibilities to as many people as possible and the only viable way I could do this was by franchising.”

Treatments will include Ellipse, IPL (Intense Pulsed Light), skin rejuvenation, epidermal pigmentation removal, facial vein removal, treatment for rosacea and permanent hair removal, among others.

Derca opens flagship store Hot on the heels of acquiring new distribution in Malaysia and securing the Wellness Warehouse account, Derca Skin Care founder Lurinda Swanepoel has opened a flagship store in Bellville, Western Cape.

“I decided that it was time to grow the business and employ more staff. The Derca store is 94sqm with a large reception area, boardroom, treatment room and offices.

I chose Bella Rosa Street as the locale as it is upmarket and the perfect environment

for our business growth,” says Swanepoel.

The store has the full Derca

retail and professional stock and laser machines, and offers training on facials and lasers.

DermaFix celebrates 12th birthday To mark 12 years in the beauty industry, DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care has launched a fresh new look and introduced two new products, Hand ResQ and LipFix.

Says DermaFix MD Ursula Hunt: “We are celebrating 12 years of sustainable credentials serving a dynamic clientele of men and women demanding worry-free, highly efficacious skincare products.

In line with this commitment, our proudly South African

company is launching its new-look brand that underscores its mission to minimise environmental impacts, and that better represents its visual identity as a transformative skin care pioneer.”

New MD for The Lash Collection Dominique Fairhurst has been appointed a shareholder and MD of The Lash Collection Pty Ltd (TLC).

Says TLC’s Jacqui McMillen: “Dominique is loved by all that she has touched in the beauty industry and is looking forward to the

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exciting challenges ahead as TLC moves into its 6th year of successful business. We wish to thank all of our staff, associates and clients for all their undying support and join me in wishing Dominique all the very best for the future.”

Fairhurst joined TLC in December 2015 as warehouse manager and progressed to become operations manager in September 2016.

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19 Business Tips

ask

the experts

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

How do I go about applying make-up to clients with mature skin without making them look older?

Prep skin for a fresh look Apply a single hydrating primer or moisturiser, massaging it into the skin. Lots of layers of product like eye cream plus serum plus moisturiser plus primer creates too much ‘slip’ and the make-up won’t grip. This will result in pilling, when make-up comes off in certain areas.

Choose liquids Apply thin layers of satin finish liquid foundation, or build up layers of tinted moisturiser, to a medium coverage, as opposed to a single layer of full coverage foundation. I always use an egg-shaped sponge for foundation application as it gives the most skin-like result. Matte foundations may last long and give full coverage on areas of redness and sun damage, but they also leaves a mature face looking mask-like and emphasise fine lines.

Go easy on powder Use powder only where needed – if the client tends to become oily on her T-zone, or if she finds her make-up easily disappears from her top lip or chin, set only these areas with powder. If the client’s

eye area or cheeks are crepey and dry, powder will only emphasise wrinkles and make skin look dull.

Opt out of shimmer Highlighter on mature skin should be used sparingly and only on the apples of cheeks where the skin is still plump and line-free. If you place highlighter too high on her cheekbones close to the corners of the eyes, the sparkly pigments will collect in her crow’s feet, making these wrinkles look more pronounced.

Add colour Many older women erroneously believe they should stick with neutral colours for their make-up.

On the contrary, a coral blush and pink lip shade will add vitality to her face, whereas brown and nude shades will wash out her complexion.

Define your features As time passes, the ends of eyebrows become sparse and less visible. Use a slim brow pencil in a cool toned brown shade to gently fill them in, concentrating on the arch and ends, while leaving the inner corners of the brows soft and less defined. Don’t over arch brows

as this will make you look angry while optimising your brow bone.

Older faces tend to have deep set eyes and prominent brow bones giving the face a gaunt look.

Mascara on top lashes only Mascara formulas seem to be either the kind that never dry completely and smudge, or the kind that dries out, leaving behind black flakes. Your under eye area has the thinnest skin of your entire body so ageing is most apparent here. Avoid using mascara and eyeliner on lower lids as this exacerbates the look of dark under eye circles, even if you don’t have dark circles. PB

Ryno Mulder is a former beauty editor and beauty journalist for Finesse, Rooi Rose, True Love, Destiny and Bona. He penned the bestselling makeover book, Maklik Mooi, with 10,000 copies sold.

Mulder trained with make-up artists Rae Morris (Vogue) and Mario Dedivanovic (Kim Kardashian’s artist) and is based in Johannesburg, where he does make-up for television, special events, beauty master classes and weddings. rynomulder@gmail.com

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21 Business Trends

Insider Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled beauty salons and spas in South Africa to track business in June 2018.

Insider Spa

Insider Salon

While June was cited by some spas as ‘fairly slow’, the majority of spas did report an increase in treatment business as compared to the same time last year. One spa group said this was because hotel occupancies were better than in June 2017.

Voucher and retail sales also played a positive role. Other spas reported a slight increase but attributed it to treatment price increases. Another spa found business very comparable to the same time last year with a minimal increase in business due to a little bit of extra business over the weekends.

Retail business fared well in June 2018, although in some cases the increase in turnover was due soley to price increases.

Other reasons cited were stronger and more trained permanent staff (as opposed to part-timers). One spa that reported a decrease noted that this was due to new additions to the team who needed refining in terms or retail skills.

Not surprisingly, all spas polled are planning Spring specials and promotions.

We asked you if you offer sunless tanning services and the majority said no. One spa we spoke to does have a sun bed and this reportedly is very popular.

The salon industry continues to feel the pinch of the tight economy with the majority reporting a decrease in both treatment and retail business. Those that managed to generate an increase attributed it to VAT or increased treatment prices. In addition there is always a seasonal negative impact on salons at this time of year, as clients tend to reduce their treatments during the winter months.

Retail sales also proved challenging with at least half of you reporting a drop in sales.

All of you were looking forward to Spring and were already in the process of planning promotions and specials.

In terms of whether you offer spray tanning services, many of you do although apparently it is not a hugely popular service, especially in winter. PB

The month in numbers

SALON 58

SPA 65 Average treatment room occupancy

Average treatment room occupancy

%

%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JUNE 2018 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2017?

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JUNE 2018 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2017?

88% 3% 9%

49% 6% 45%

Better

SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JUNE 2018 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2017?

79% Better

16% SAME

5% WORSE

Better

SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JUNE 2018 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2017?

38% 12 50% % Better

WORSE

SAME

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Business Tips

23

In what form of entity should I trade?

In the second of a series of financial articles, Chartered Accountant Colin Reeves looks at the trading entity options open to spa / salon owners.

T

here are three ways you can set up your business: • Sole proprietorship • Partnership • Limited private company (close corporations can no longer be registered)

Sole proprietorship This is the format where you are personally trading. The business is not a separate legal entity. As a sole proprietor you can trade in your own name, or under a trade name (e.g.

Landiwe Mbeki trading as ABC Skin Care).

I believe that this is the best format for small businesses as it is simple, cheap to set up and does not have to conform to the rigorous requirements of a limited company. There is no legal requirement as to how the business records are kept and the yearend accounts don’t have to be prepared in a specific format but merely need to support your own Income Tax Return.

The monies paid to you from the business is not a salary and so does not have to be subject to PAYE unless you so prefer. It is treated as drawings and is set off against money you have put into the business. As such, it is not an expense of the business as you will be taxed personally on the total business profits.

Although you are personally trading it is best to open a business account to separate business transactions from personal. All business revenue will be deposited into your business account and all business expenses will be paid from the business account. It

A private company is subject to pre-emptive restriction of the sale of shares. This means that if there is more than one shareholder, one cannot sell his/her share to a third party without the approval of the other shareholder. may happen that you spend money for the business from your own personal account in which case you must keep the slips and charge them to the business periodically for refund.

As a sole proprietor you own all the business assets and are liable personally for all debts incurred by the business. There is no limited liability as there is with a limited company.

Partnership A partnership is a relationship between two or more persons who join together to carry on a business much the same as a sole proprietorship.

The partners can be family members, or any group of people who want to take responsibility for the business. >

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Business Tips

24

The partnership should be (but does not have to be) governed by an agreement, which will describe the way in which the partners interact with each other, how decisions are made, what each partner’s share of profits will be and what happens if one or more wishes to leave the business.

Depending on the partnership agreement, the rules of remuneration are the same as a sole proprietor. Salaries need not be paid and subjected to PAYE, but amounts drawn from the business will be debited to drawings and each partner will be taxed on that portion of the partnership profits applicable to him/her.

The partnership agreement will cover aspects of what percentage of the business each partner enjoys. Whether he/ she is entitled to a salary over and above their share of profits, duties, responsibilities etc. It may also cover what happens in the event of one of the partner’s death or he/she becoming disabled and unable to carry on.

In this event each partner will want to protect their family but the other partners may not have the ability to pay out the agreed

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price. To this effect, a ‘buy/sell’ agreement can be incorporated within the partnership agreement or more usually be a separate agreement. This agreement will form the basis of life cover policies for each partner, which will be used to pay out that partner’s estate the agreed value of his/her share of the partnership.

Limited company A limited company is a separate legal entity. Its owners are shareholders and the company is run by its director/s. Since the promulgation of the Companies Act 2008, it is easier to use this form of entity to house your business than in the past. An audit is no longer compulsory, but annual financial statements in the prescribed format are required to be prepared each year and annual returns need to be registered annually with CIPC (Companies and Intellectual Property Commission).

Trading through a limited

company provides the shareholders protection from the company’s debts through limited liability. However, shareholders and directors may be required to guarantee financial institutions personally, where the company has made borrowings. If credit is taken from suppliers, the credit application forms required by those suppliers invariably incorporate a personal surety section, which if completed, will make those completing the form personally liable for the debt incurred. When completing these documents, it is essential to check for this and delete any wording relating to suretyships. A supplier will most likely give credit without it being completed.

In the case of a failure in the business, directors can be held liable for liabilities where it can be proved the liabilities were incurred recklessly. Directors can also be held liable for amounts owing to SARS for PAYE and VAT, although this would only apply if it could be proved there was fraud. Pension and provident contributions deducted from employees and not paid over can sometimes be claimed from the directors.

A private company is subject to pre-emptive restriction of the sale of shares. This means that if there is more than one shareholder, one cannot sell his/her share to a third party without the approval of the other shareholder. The exact restrictions are governed by the company’s constitution or Memorandum of Incorporation (MOI, unless a shareholders’ agreement has been entered into between all the shareholders.

This agreement will govern how shareholders must interact with each other, how the company will be run, who will be directors etc. PB

Colin Reeves is a Chartered Accountant and CEO of The Cloud Accountants, a professional firm offering bookkeeping, tax and accounting services, educational courses and financial assistance to small and medium sized businesses. Reeves has personal knowledge of the salon business, having previously owned two clinics and having clients in the spa business. colin@thecloudaccountants.co.za

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Business Tips

26

The power of sleep for you and your business

S

Improving sleep in the workplace for employees is one of the biggest wellness trends for 2018, writes Lauren Gibson.

leep problems affect the health and quality of life for 45% of the world’s population. In today’s ever moving, fast-paced world we sometimes view sleep as a time of low productivity and seem to think there are other things we could be doing in that time. We push ourselves, our businesses and our staff to fit as much into our capacity as we can.

We spend a third of our life sleeping. Yet we have never felt this exhausted or run down and we are not even near the end of the year.

While it is possible to function on a little amount of sleep, constantly doing so has a bigger impact than you may realise on your health, your staff and your business.

Negative effects Lack of sleep affects the skin in so many ways and the appearance of being worn out and run down is evident. But the impact of less sleep affects your body and mind too.

Insufficient sleep can cause an increase in cortisol, which means you are functioning at a lower response rate. You will likely have mood swings and rely on stimulants.

This is not productive to the staff or team working with you, or the

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We sometimes view sleep as a time of low productivity and seem to think there are other things we could be doing in that time. clients coming into your business.

Critical leadership and decisionmaking functions are affected by lack of sleep. These include not being able to make fast decisions, or assessing risk correctly, or troubleshooting and finding solutions, or multi-tasking and displaying emotional intelligence.

Sleep deprivation also increases sickness and absenteeism, which will eat into your profits and the performance of your team.

Sleep-friendly environment How can you make your space more sleep friendly for staff? By ensuring that staff rosters are scheduled correctly so that they are not getting home late in the evening. Always make sure that enough off-time is allocated. A lunch break is critical to restore energy levels during the day and

to improve the performance for clients in the afternoon.

How can you make your space more inviting for the guest lacking sleep? Try burning candles or incense that give off a sedative effect, or apply a few drops of essential oil on the head towel on the top of the bed, or start your treatment with essential oil inhalations to calm the psyche.

Other techniques may include playing music that has a binaural beat. This is music that has two different sound frequencies and a soothing back track. It ensures relaxation and has restorative effects on the body.

Sleep restores and rejuvenates the mind, body and soul – this is what we do for our clients everyday so we should make it a priority for ourselves. PB

Lauren Gibson has been in the health and skincare industry for over 10 years as well as in the IT and fashion industry. She has worked for Dermalogica for the last six years as an educator, brand consultant and currently the regional manager for the Western and Eastern Cape. Her passions include education, ingredient technology, changing businesses through upskilling staff, leadership and following trends. laureng@dermalogica.co.za

Interview

28

Talking to...

Stav Dimitriadis

After 27 years at Twincare International, one of the largest independent distributors of beauty, nail and hair products in South Africa, CEO Stav Dimitriadis is poised for further company growth. Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to Dimitriadis about the future, as well as the evolution of the beauty industry.

With a thriving business and so many skin, hair and nail brands in your portfolio, what are your plans for the future?

My medium term focus is to buy some businesses. I’m always on the lookout for brands with a magical quality. If I see that a brand has traction, I’ll chase it. The beauty industry is very competitive so you have to keep trying to reinvent yourself. This becomes difficult when you get older, so I get my staff to challenge me and suggest things, and even criticise me.

A company CEO who lets his staff criticise him?

Oh yes – we have an open door policy at Twincare International.

It’s an important part of our company culture.

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For spas, I would say 30% of your overall turnover should come from retail sales.

However, if you’re a salon, you need to be generating 50% of your business from retail because treatment services are a small percentage of your business.

How did you end up in the beauty industry?

It’s not something I ever planned.

My parents were immigrants from Greece and my father insisted I go

to University. So I went, not having the slightest clue of what I wanted to study. I didn’t have the best course counsellor at the University of Natal so I looked at the list of subjects and thought political science and economic history seemed the most interesting.

They were a waste of time but they did teach me to think.

I then studied electronics at tech and did a financial management and marketing course. What I really wanted to be is an astro-physicist but my maths marks weren’t good enough.

However, it’s still a hobby of mine and I read about it in my spare time and have a good layman’s understanding of it.

My first actual job was at a point of sale advertising company and they transferred me to Johannesburg. The company went broke but I stayed on without pay

Interview

29

for two months – I believed in them and they were family friends.

One thing I’ve learnt through many years of experience in business is that you will get involved in some businesses and brands that you love and they will bleed you out. Anyway, I was desperate to work so I answered an ad for a sales person for Redken at Twincare. I got the job and after two years was promoted to sales manager. My next move up was up to sales & marketing manager.

I turned out to be really good at sales despite having had no sales training. I’d previously got a taste of sales during a short stint at a community newspaper in Pinetown, where I sold the biggest ad at the time – a six month contract – in the few months that I was there.

What makes you such a good salesman?

Well, I have good people skills and although I was not naturally a very organised person, I learnt organisational skills along the way.

These two things are essential

in sales. I always tell my staff – develop relationships with your clients and make a plan. Not a lot of young sales people these days do that. I’ve noticed that millennials usually stay at Twincare for between six months and a year.

It’s clear that sales is not a calling for them but something they have stumbled into. There are too many variables in their lives. Plus, they are not motivated by sales but by lifestyle, as most of them don’t have money issues.

become a shareholder in the company. I started to add brands to our portfolio and now we have 30 brands in hair care, nail care and skincare. Our biggest brands are Moroccanoil, Paul Mitchell, Guinot, Sharpelines, Matis, Olaplex and Biosense. In business you always have to have a plan and keep growing your business, so I’m constantly on the lookout for other brands.

Have you any lost any brands while at Twincare?

What changes have you observed in the beauty industry over the past 27 years?

Yes, three brands – Redken when it was bought out by L’Oreal; Nioxin when it was bought out by Wella; and OPI when it was bought out by Coty. When we lost Redken in 2000, Twincare changed quite drastically as we literally lost 80% of our business because the only other brands we had were OPI and Matis. So I had to restart the business from scratch. However, it gave me the opportunity to buyout from the owners so I could

When I we got into the beauty industry in 1991, it was small and populated with individual salons.

From 2000 to 2009 the beauty industry woke up and grew. It suddenly became sexy – a lot of spas opened – and four things happened. The first was the global economic crisis; secondly, business became overtraded in that there were too many beauty brands. Thirdly, some salon chains became a success and put stress on profits from the >

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Interview

30 rest of us and lastly, the client’s desire for immediate results.

The latter pertains to treatments such as botulinum toxins and dermal fillers, which have become hugely popular in the quest to retain youthful looks.

As someone whose company revolves around sales, what would you say is the ideal percentage for retail vs treatment business at salons and spas?

For spas, I would say 30% of your overall turnover should come from retail sales. However, if you’re a salon, you need to be generating 50% of your business from retail because treatment services are a small percentage of your business. The services are the hook, the retail is the profit.

A big problem is that salons are run by therapists who don’t like selling. I would suggest that therapists take the sale aspect out of the equation and ask their clients what their issues are with their skin and then suggest a solution, as in, ‘This product might help you’. Every person coming to your salon uses skincare – so where do they buy from? Therapists are losing retail business and that is what opened the door for larger chains.

In terms of hairdressing, retail is easier as the consumer has accepted that professional products are better for their

hair than consumer products.

But if I had to look at the future of beauty, if you keep doing retail and services, turnover becomes predictable. So, to change you have to either improve your selling skills or find new, add on services. Beauty has a wide spectrum, which is why we recently took on the make-up brand, Luma Beauty.

I’ve previously burnt my fingers with make-up brands that have dozens of SKUs but Luma is a small range. Twincare has now got other brands that expand the beauty spectrum, like Travel Scents.

If you look at why we introduced our very own locally developed waxing brand, Screaming Beauty, it was to try and re-imagine the opportunities of beauty. Waxing is not a pleasant experience but we decided to create fun around the experience by taking the client’s mind off the pain. So the therapist says to the client: “I’m applying Jack the Ripper and Gill the Screamer”. Twincare is slowing adding to the Screaming Beauty range – we now have Face Bobbles and Hair Bobbles, with more to follow.

How do you motivate your own sales staff?

It’s very difficult because the industry is not experiencing growth. So, what do we do about it? In the 1990s, sales people were hungry for sales but today they don’t seem to be. What

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we do at Twincare is to try and motivate them by team – creating an environment where if you fail, you are letting your team down. But we’ve had to up basic salaries and lower commission.

These days everyone is talking about how the beauty consumer has changed in recent years.

Please comment.

One of the mistakes we make is thinking that what works today will work in five years’ time. Therefore, you have to try and divine the future. I think the single biggest factor that will affect the beauty industry will be the internet, even more so than it is already doing today. Consumer’s beauty consumption will go online. We may not like it, but the consumer will follow price and ease of purchase.

Consequently, the price of services will go up and we will lose business.

The industry is largely affected by trends, which come and go and some of which are fads. You have to try and tap into trends and identify those brands that will endure in the market. PB

Spa Focus

31

going

green in your spa

I

Almost anyone who sets foot in a spa today is going to be aware of the environment, as well as of the dangers of plastic and of toxins.

Your job as a spa owner is to ensure that you and your staff are also environmentally aware, writes Debbie Merdjan.

t’s vitally important that your spa is conscious of the planet and that you do your best to become more eco-friendly.

Therefore it’s essential that you cut down on plastic, that you stop wasting water and that you don’t use or offer any products that could be toxic.

Of course it can be costly to change your spa overnight into a Green Spa. But, in the same way as we are slowly getting rid of plastic from our supermarkets, we can slowly make the right changes in spas too.

For a start, recycle. Offer your clients an incentive to return empty plastic retail containers for the product suppliers to recycle.

Your clients will be impressed if they see that your therapists have different spaces for paper, plastic, glass or general waste. Yes, you are a spa and you want it to look beautiful, but you can recycle beautifully and gently let your clients know that you do. They will be impressed.

Natural and organic Take a look at your products.

Start shifting, even if slowly, by adding an organic or natural range to your product offering.

Try out new products and chat to your clients about using products that contain natural ingredients only. You will see how delighted most people are when they realise that the products they are using are not toxic to the environment in any way.

By the way, you will probably find that by ‘going green’ your client base actually increases.

Nobody wants toxic anymore.

Make sure that your clients understand that the results are as good, or even better, when using organic and biodynamic ingredients. You still want to offer the most extraordinary spa experience, but you can do it without plastic, without wasting water, without wasting energy and by recycling.

Staff buy-in

Slow process

If you have an active interest in the environment, chat to your staff about it. You will probably find that they are interested and keen to make a difference too. In fact, they may be able to teach you a few things already. Embark on a Green Spa together. Look at ways to recycle, ways to save energy and ways to offer your clients the most magnificent experience without causing any damage to our beautiful planet.

Going green is a process. It is absolutely fine to do it slowly and you don’t need to rush out and replace your electric lights with solar. You can aim for it though. In the meantime, don’t use plastic, ask your staff not to waste water, always recycle and do your best to use organic products.

A Green Spa is something to aim for. And it will be incredibly beautiful. PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982, started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997. dm@camelothealth.co.za

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Spa Focus

32

The

grand

b of a

eauty usiness

Launched last year, Revive Wellness Spa in Highlands North, Johannesburg, is reaping the benefits of its personalised customer service policies and maximising the use of its extensive facilities, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

O

wner Leah Livanos believes Revive Wellness Spa is one of the largest and most luxurious spas in Africa being, as it is, spread across 2,200 square metres and spanning four floors, one of which has a fitness centre.

Revive was literally built from the ground up. Eight years ago Livanos, a fashion school graduate and make-up artist who developed her own line of makeup brushes, acquired an existing beauty business in Balfour Mall in Highlands North, called J’s Skin and Body Clinic.

“It was a fairly old fashioned beauty salon with a 35-year history but I absolutely fell in love with it.

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I refurbished it and managed to retain the long-standing clientele by building real relationships. In those days there was no Sorbet salon down the road. After a few years, I saw a lot of my clients fade away because the dynamics of Balfour Mall itself had changed. So, two years ago I made the decision to move the business.”

At that time, Livanos happened to notice an old, dilapidated house across the road, on the corner of Athol and Randjeslaagte streets, so she approached the owner with an offer to purchase the house and its adjacent plot.

“It took a year and a half to build Revive Wellness Spa,” she comments. “I designed the spa myself, from the actual exterior

and interior layout of the building, to the sourcing of interior items, fabric, spa amenities and even the physical sewing of the curtains.

My father [Costa Livanos], who has extensive building experience, helped me to realise my dream, brick by brick.”

Levels Livanos believes that no other spa resembles Revive. “I constantly tweaked the design during the building process. Initially the spa was meant to be only one floor but then I realised that if I wanted 10 nail stations, then they would have to occupy an entire floor. We also have a hair spa on this floor, as well as the reception area.”

The second floor is entirely

Spa Focus

33

“In addition, our scrubs and oils have no preservatives; every week we re-blend the oils ourselves.”

Personal touch

dedicated to hydro facilities (indoor heated pool, rasul, steam rooms and flotation tank) and relaxation areas. “No other spa that I know of has a whole floor of complementary treatments,” comments Livanos. “We have what we call the Decompression Lounge, in line with overseas trends. Clients are taken to the Decompression Lounge following massage treatments and served herbal infused tea, which we grow ourselves.”

The third floor houses 14 treatment rooms, including four couples’ rooms, as well a sun bed and spray tanning cubicle. On the fourth floor is the fitness centre, where yoga, fitness and boxing classes are offered.

Sanctuary Revive was envisaged as a home to ‘true wellness’. “For instance,” continues Livanos, “Himalayan salt crystals are a running theme throughout the spa. We use them in our beanbags to draw out the negative ions and to release lactic acid in the body. And, we also use Himalayan salt lamps.

Livanos stresses that she put her heart and soul into creating a homeaway-from-home that guests can enjoy when they need to escape life’s everyday stresses.

“So, whether a client has booked a 30-minute treatment, or a three-hour treatment, my wish is that everyone spends as much time as they like enjoying our facilities. I have clients who spend hours relaxing by our indoor heated pool, reading a book and ordering smoothies or a healthy lunch, and it makes me so happy to see that. I love creating bespoke packages for men and women based on their budget, time constraints and needs. Every month we see old clients who left J’s Skin and Body Clinic return to us,” she says.

Revive attracts a lot of high end clients and celebrities and an important part of the spa’s business model is hosting events, like DL Link, where over 100 cancer patients were invited to Revive for a sponsored spa day.

Spa at a glance Opened: May 2017 Owner: Leah Livanos Size: 2,200 metres Number of full-time therapists: 30 Number of treatment rooms: 14 Brands: RégimA, Essel, Aesthet, Environ, Nimue, Thalgo, Eye Slices, Instantly Ageless, Gelish, Morgan Taylor, Bio Sculpture Gel, ProHesion, Depilève and Tan Lab “We have imported a muscle stimulation machine from Germany called MIHA Bodytec. One session on this machine is equivalent to eight hours of exercise. It’s specifically targeted at women who don’t have the time to exercise,” she explains.

Other aesthetic treatments include Alma Beauty Rejuve, Venus Freeze, Dermapen, injectables, threads and carboxytherapy, as well as a vitamin drip (administered by a nurse).

“In the near future, I aim to open spas of excellence all over the country, and soon after that, I believe the Revive brand will be sought after on an international platform,” concludes Livanos. PB

Aesthetics Livanos points out that even though Revive is a spa, it also offers aesthetic treatments and is equipped with the latest devices for weight loss, firming, toning and anti-ageing needs.

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Menopausal Skin

36

possibilities The age of

As any woman who has been through menopause will know, this major transitional phase is accompanied by a very unwanted dynamic – the mass exodus of collagen and elastin from the skin. Menopause can also spark other unwelcome conditions, such as oily skin and adult acne.

Joanna Sterkowicz takes a look at some of the best treatments available to combat these issues.

M

enopause is directly linked to the reduction in the oestrogen hormone and is the main culprit in advancing the signs of skin ageing already prevalent, according to Diana van Sittert, head of education and business development at pHformula. “Oestrogen is key to normal skin functioning as it assists in the functioning of skin cells such as fibroblasts, keratinocytes and melanocytes. It is also important to note its involvement in hair growth and oil production,� says Van Sittert.

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Oestrogen is key to normal skin functioning as it assists in the functioning of skin cells such as fibroblasts, keratinocytes and melanocytes. It is also important to note its involvement in hair growth and oil production

She notes that menopause presents the following skin concerns: less and weaker hair on the skin which decreases the flow of sebum from within the follicle to the outside of the skin, thus increasing the risk of congestion (i.e. acne); and decreased skin strength due to the reduction in dermal thickness, increasing the chances for skin trauma and decreasing the skin healing processes.

Other symptoms are decreased skin elasticity and increased line and wrinkle development; dry skin due to the reduction in sebum levels; increased sensitivity due to less Langerhans cell contents in the skin; formation of age spots because some melanocytes become dormant and other melanocyte cells double up on the pigment production for skin protection; less GAGS (Glycosaminoglycans) that deplete skin plumpness; slower cell turnover which gives the skin a dull and sallow appearance; and, the build up of DNA damage over time and reproduction of

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Menopausal Skin

38 damaged cells, meaning less nutrients are absorbed by the skin and more waste products are built up Van Sittert believes a key ingredient for menopausal skin is Vitamin A / retinol. She continues: “This ingredient has the most research backing to prove that it reverses the signs of skin ageing and the repair of damaged DNA. Peptides are also vital as your skin needs amino acids to rebuild collagen. Peptides are chains of amino acids that support new collagen and elastin growth as well as repair.

“In addition, because the skin cannot produce collagen without Vitamin C and the body does not produce Vitamin C, topical application of this vitamin is therefore crucial. Vitamin B3, on the other hand, repairs Langerhans cells to improve skin sensitivity, whilst normalising melanin / pigment production.”

Van Sittert also recommends Hyaluronic acid (for moisture); skin identical ceramides (to keep the skin barrier intact); cell to cell communication improvers to ensure maximum penetration of active ingredients; SPF and pollution protection; and chemical exfoliation with Alpha-hydroxy acids.

Trio of products The Vitality Booster Masque from Vitaderm is a creamy clay masque which contains high concentrations of anti-oxidant nutri-ceuticals, such as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (Vitamin C), ferulic acid, ubiquinol and glutathione.

These ingredients offer incredible anti-free radical and anti-ageing benefits. Ascorbyl

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tetraisopalmitate is a revolutionary Vitamin C compound that is oil soluble and therefore very stable against oxidation. Phyto extracts assist in conditioning the skin, increasing skin radiance and offering antiinflammatory properties.

Also from Vitaderm, the Nutrient Complex is ultranourishing and especially suited for dry, very dry and mature skin types. The advanced nutri-ceuticals that have been incorporated into this formulation include a revolutionary Vitamin C compound that is oil soluble and therefore very stable against oxidation. The addition of ferulic acid ensures unsurpassed antioxidant benefits. This anhydrous blend is preservative free.

For adult acne, Vitaderm’s Purifying Treatment Cream is a highly effective formulation that contains salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) found in willow bark. Salicylic acid is extremely effective in assisting in the reduction of inflammation that is associated with acne-prone skin. In addition, this ingredient helps normalise the rate of keratinisation, thereby reducing the accumulation of keratinised cells on the surface of the skin, as well as inside the pores. This helps prevent congestion in the pores. The addition of tea tree leaf extract and aloe vera extract further assists in healing and reducing inflammation.

DHEA effect Specifically dedicated to mature skin, the Ericson Laboratoire DHE-Age Rich Cream incorporates active ingredients capable of reproducing the positive effects of DHEA (an endogenous steroid hormone) on the skin. Enriched with wild yam, vegeseryl, nutriskin, Vitamin E, corn and macadamia oils, it possesses triple-action effectiveness – anti-wrinkle, antisagging and reinforced nutrition.

“The skin is regenerated deep down and shows renewed signs

of vitality and youth,” says Tatiana Shuvalova of Ericson Laboratoire SA. “Rich and non-greasy, it is perfectly suited to the most undernourished skin types.”

She notes that DHEA makes the skin softer by increasing its content in terms of water and lipids. “The skin becomes more resistant; keratinocytes that determine the ‘solidity’ of the skin are strengthened by the DHEA, and contain more organites such as keratinosomes and granules of keratohyalin. Consequently, the skin becomes thicker and DHEA inhibits the production of collageneses.”

Innovative mask Black Pearl has several products suited to menopausal skin, such as the innovative Thermal Mask.

Says Black Pearl South Africa’s Michelle Roberts: “The Thermal Mask contains a unique complex that integrates natural minerals with vitamins and additional active components such as zeolite and sea buckthorn oil. It begins to act and warm the skin from the very first touch. The heating effect gently encourages the pores to open while the mask thoroughly cleanses and enables its active substances to penetrate the skin more easily. The mask will give the skin a smooth, refined and supple look and natural iridescence.”

Because collagen is the most common protein in the human body and its intensive firming

properties add volume to the skin, Black Pearl has created the ultimate Collagen Kit comprising Pure Collagen Firming Serum; Pure Collagen Firming Day Cream and Pure Collagen Firming Mask.

Based on the restorative power of Hyaluronic acid (HA), Black Pearl’s Hyaluronic Kit offers an effective approach to skin renewal, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Designed for mature skin, the HAbased formulas are fortified with LipigenineTM, a rich, innovative moisturising agent that maintains the skin’s natural lipid balance and protects against dryness for a smoother skin effect. The antiageing action of ChronogenTM is designed to optimise the skin’s natural regenerative cycles for an enhanced anti-ageing effect that supports the skin’s repair mechanisms and reduces signs of ageing. A boost of resveratrol bursting with natural plant antioxidants that help to fight free radicals works together with soothing plant oils, vitamins A, E and pro-vitamin B5, natural minerals, and hydra-rich squalene (extracted from organic olives) for improved skin flexibility, enhanced moisture balance and naturally youthful luminosity.

Desert treasures Kalahari Lifestyle’s Phyto-flora Serum maintains and balances the skin’s natural microbes, while radically improving the skin’s complex defence system and barrier function. Other benefits includes cell oxygenation, protection against environmental pollutants and overall prevention of cell ageing. Ingredients include Actibiome (Probiotics);

nasturtium flower extract to improve oxygenation of the skin; and Bulgarian rose to promote healthy ageing of skin cells.

Also from Kalahari, the Instant Lifting Serum is an intense skin-firming serum formulated with botanical extracts from Pentapeptides, concentrated Algae extract and Kigelia africana fruit extract. This concentrated serum stimulates collagen and elastin production, resulting in visible lifting and tightening.

The purified artichoke leaf peptide normalises keratinocyte growth in the epidermis, stimulating collagen in the dermis. The skin is thickened as a result, with increased hydration.

Wild yam extract is an antiinflammatory and soothing antioxidant. Other ingredients include black current seed oil, retinyl pamitate and ascorbyl pamitate.

Expressive genes RégimA Zone Epi-Genes Xpress contains a unique probiotic, as well as African seed, rosehip seed and retinyl palmitate to fight epidermal thinning and to stimulate renewal for thicker, healthier and more youthful skin.

It also treats dull, lifeless skin and results in a significant reduction in wrinkle depth.

To complement the above, Kalahari’s Ultra-Rich Skin Complex is an antioxidant-rich evening moisturiser compounded of highly proactive ingredients such as Vitamin C, marine botanicals from sea kelp, peptides and hyaluronic acid with antiageing and regenerating benefits.

Major reversal Age Reverse from SIX Sensational Skincare delivers an advanced age fighting solution rich in artichoke leaf peptide, retinol and wild yam. With restored density and hydration, the skin recovers comfort and suppleness and wrinkles are smoothed.

Says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt: “In addition, Epi-Genes Xpress stimulates nerve regrowth and significantly retards the skin ageing process. It stimulates gene expression, thereby thickening thin, fragile, damaged or ageing skins.”

Also from RégimA Zone is the Quantum Elastin Collagen Revival, which uses an innovative biomimetic collagen repair complex, combined with advanced peptide technologies that support the activation of the cutaneous repair process.

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Menopausal Skin

39

Menopausal Skin

40 This synergistic activity actually repairs and strengthens the dermal collagen support system, resulting in a multi-faceted improvement in the tone and elasticity of the skin and a reduction and smoothing of facial lines and wrinkles.

Skin aid The Revitalising Oméga 3 Cream was created by Matis as a targeted treatment to help skin that has become fragile due to the hormonal imbalances linked to menopause.

The cream contains iris isoflavones and wild yam extract to improve skin structure by acting directly on the skin ageing process. These ingredients inhibit the activity of enzymes responsible for collagen and elastin degradation.

Highly concentrated in essential fatty acids, black currant seed omega-3 reduces trans-epidermal skin waterloss. It also restores the natural hyrolipidic film. Skin repair messenger peptides act effectively on wrinkles and repair the skin barrier. The Well-Being Complex comprises cocoa bean shells to stimulate the synthesis of endorphins and neuropeptides present in the body.

Gel-based peptide blend DermaFix has several products targeted at ageing skin, including Collagen Conformer, a gelbased peptide blend assisting to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin for all skin types. Regular use of Collagen Conformer works to accelerate the restructuring of the dermis,

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resulting in a younger, healthier looking skin.

Rich in age-defying ceramides, DMAE, hyaluronic and apple stem cells, DermaFix Ceramide Complex is an anti-ageing serum that reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improves skin elasticity and repairs the natural lipid barrier of the skin.

DermaFix DeCeLeRate is a highly active anti-ageing corrective moisturiser suitable for all skin types showing visible signs of ageing. It contains Smart Peptide Technology in the form of Matrixyl® 3000, Matrixyl® Synthé 6® and Argireline®, working to attenuate the formation of lines and wrinkles, whilst activating the natural process of tissue repair within the skin.

Increased cell turnover SKNmulti active lotion from SKNlogic includes a high concentration of Alpha and Beta Hydroxy acids (14%) in a light weight emulsion as an intensive treatment for increased cell turnover to restore skin suppleness, clarity and texture. This active treatment

optimises skin rejuvenation, treats mature skin, hyperpigmentation, dehydration and problematic skin.

The lotion does not contain parabens, sulphates, synthetic fragrance and synthetic colourants, lanolin derivatives, mineral oil or MITs.

Canny combo md:ceuticals recommends the combination of md:peel 17% Azelaic & 20% Salicylic with the md:complex GenX with Biomimetic Peptides and Growth Factors.

Says Ana Engelbrecht of Anaclinical: “This combined treatment targets all the effects of menopause on the skin.

Firstly, md:peel 17% Azelaic 20% Salicylic is indicated for acne in all manifestations, oily skin, hyperpigmentation, including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and superficial to medium wrinkles.

“Our latest launch is the md:complex GenX Biomimetic Peptides & Growth Factors, which replicates the biological conditions that are found in younger and healthier skin, resulting in more effective and efficient results.”

As a result, inflammation on the skin is reduced, fibroblast activity is stimulated, wound healing is accelerated, and the skin’s immune system is stimulated. The main signs of skin ageing such as fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, flaccidity and hair loss are minimised. md:ceuticals has formulated GenX for a universal rejuvenating solution and GenX Eye Contour specifically for the eye area to treat ageing, puffiness and dark circles with a dramatic result. PB

Treatment review

43

golden THE

TOUCH

Joanna Sterkowicz is invited to try a luxurious and indulgent new treatment from Black Pearl, namely the 24k Gold Lux Holistic Massage.

M

y treatment was performed at the boutique skincare clinic, Crystal Clear, in Parkwood, Johannesburg. On arrival I learnt that Michelle Roberts and Faaizah Abram of Black Pearl South Africa had specifically developed the 24k Gold Lux Holistic Massage for the Four Seasons Spa in Florence.

Said Abram: “Michelle and I were inspired to create the treatment to mark the recent launch of Black Pearl’s 24k Gold Massage Oil, which is formulated with actual 24 carat gold. This new product is something that was requested by therapists in Florence and clients who were using the 24k Gold Devine Butter (launched last year) and were delighted by it, and now wanted an actual oil for massage purposes.

“The 24k Gold Massage Oil was in development for about a year – it was quite challenging for the Black Pearl chemists to find a way to suspend the gold particles in the oil, without them falling to

the bottom of the bottle.

In addition, the development time was taken to ensure that the 24k gold was available to the skin to combat ageing.”

As Abram commenced the treatment I discovered that the Lux Holistic Massage protocol comprises a combination of different massage methodologies, including deep tissue as well as stretching movements. The combination of massage methodologies releases tension, invigorates the muscles and aids healing.

“Our aim with this 60-minute massage is to rejuvenate the client,” continued Abram. “It’s absolutely perfect for any spa but including the Four Seasons Spa in Florence, which sees a large volume of weary travelers come through its doors, seeking a relaxing and re-vitalising treatment,” noted Abram.

She explained that in addition to being a wonderful massage medium, the 24 carat gold in the oil has anti-ageing benefits as it stimulates micro-circulation and is also anti-inflammatory. In addition, the product contains shea butter, almond, coconut and avocado oil

for their moisturising and hydrating benefits. I noticed that a little really does go a long way in terms of how little oil was actually needed for a full body massage.

The oil which has a lovely, invigorating scent thanks to a bespoke fragrance developed specifically for 24k Gold collection in Grasse, France, is left on the skin post massage to absorb, which it did easily. My skin felt really hydrated and glowed, it looked almost golden in fact. Having been full of stress prior to the treatment, I was now delightfully relaxed as a result of this luxurious massage.

Abram noted that while the Lux Holistic Massage treatment is currently being introduced to the South African market, a lot of overseas spas are already offering the massage as part of a signature Black Pearl 24k Gold package.

“For instance, some packages include a scrub and a facial treatment, as well as Black Pearl’s new hair treatment,” she concluded. PB Contact Black Pearl South Africa: 082 560 0262 online @ probeauty.co.za

WWW.SLLASERS.CO.ZA

THE REVOLUTIONARY LASER EVERYBODY IS TALKING ABOUT The SL Lasers range is an innovative brand extension of Sulé Loggenberg MMPSI – World Renowned Institute of Permanent Makeup & Microblading.

We have two products available in this range. The SL Lasers device and the SL Lasers Multifunction device. This range is ideal for beauty salons, Permanent Makeup clinics and also for medical professionals. Services and treatments can be combined into various packages to give your clients a satisfying and unique experience with amazing results. With the SL Lasers device you can perform the following treatments and procedures:

SKIN REJUVENATION AND ANTI-AGEING: • The Ultimate Hollywood Facial!

• Acne treatment • Exfoliates and refreshes • Large pore reduction and firmer skin • Reduced fine lines and wrinkles • Vascular treatment

REMOVAL PROCEDURES:

• Blackhead removal • Pigmentation and age spot removal • Birthmark removal • Permanent Makeup and tattoo removal The SL Lasers Multifunction machine you have all the functions as the SL Lasers device plus these two added functions: • Hair removal (Thick, course hair and thin hair) • Breastlift and enhancement

+ Order your device and get your training absolutely FREE!

Before

Before

Before

After 1 treatment

After 1 treatment

After 1 treatment

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND FOR ORDERS: (+27) 83 271 8675 | hello@suleloggenberg.co.za www.sllasers.co.za | www.suleloggenberg.co.za | www.pmusupplies.co.za

É

MMPSI

Loggenberg

Wo r l d R e n o w n e d Institute of Permanent Makeup & Microblading

Treatment review

45

Going the

HOLLYWOOD way Keen to resurface her congested skin and correct an uneven skin tone, Cara van Biljoen tries the new Hollywood Treatment from SL Lasers.

W

hen I arrived for my Hollywood Treatment at the SL Lasers head office in Sasolburg, the company’s Sulé Loggenberg explained that the treatment is also known as the Carbon Laser Peel and/ or the ‘China Doll Peel’.

“That’s because of the porcelain, doll-like finish the skin exhibits post treatment,” continued Loggenberg. “This treatment is an innovative laser resurfacing treatment that utilises focused light beams to treat skin imperfections. It works to restore skin balance whilst promoting a fresh and even glow. As the treated skin regenerates, the appearance of uneven spots and pigment are visibly lessened and more uniform in texture.”

My skin issues were the result of a combination of factors – sun damage, hormonal changes and a touch of acne. I asked about the downtime of the Hollywood Treatment and was delighted find there would be none. As to any possible side effects, Loggenberg assured me that they are minimal,

with only slight redness and tingling a few hours post treatment.

“A temporary hair loss on the treated area can occur and some individuals experience a mild outbreak the week following the treatment,” noted Loggenberg.

After cleansing my skin.

Loggenberg commenced the treatment by applying a thin layer of carbon to the surface of my skin, making sure it was evenly distributed.

“I’m now going to apply a focused light beam from the SL Lasers device to each target area.

The carbon particles will actively absorb the light before a vacuum suction gently removes them, along with the damaged cells found in the upper layers of the skin. This simultaneous generation of thermal energy stimulates the synthesis of fresh collagen and the promotion of a healthy-looking complexion.

You will find that even after a single treatment, your skin structure is visibly strengthened and any open pores are purified and cleared,”

commented Loggenberg.

I was delighted to find that the procedure was pain-free – I only experienced a slight tingling and warmth on the skin as the laser zapped away the thin layer of carbon. After the treatment I could actually see that my skin looked smoother and refreshed.

SL Lasers recommends spacing out treatments between two to three weeks to allow for the regeneration of collagen and elastin of skin tissue.

“The effectiveness of the treatment will depend on the individual, however a course of between two and six treatments will produce superior results.

Maintenance treatments after your initial course are recommended every one to three months,” said Loggenberg. PB Contact SL Lasers: 083 271 8675

online @ probeauty.co.za

Product Focus – Sun Protection

46

days BLAZING

AHEAD

With the approach of spring and summer comes the very real threat of the sun’s UVA and UVB rays and the damage they wreak on unprotected skin.

We take a look at some of the latest sun protection products on the market.

Mineral base

Vital barrier

Kalahari Lifestyle’s SPF 40 Sun Protection is a mineral-based sunscreen fortified with Kigelia Africana and Mongongo extracts that provide natural protection and anti-ageing properties.

The broad-spectrum, oil free formulation has a high UVA / UVB defence system. Other ingredients include marula seed oil, rooibos extract and Kalahari Melon seed oil.

From Vitaderm, the Reflective Sun Barrier SPF 25+ is a highly effective, non-greasy sunscreen that is ideal for use on the face.

It provides effective protection against UVA and UVB rays, thereby providing anti-ageing properties. This sunscreen has been tested by the Medical University of South Africa and is approved by CANSA.

011 656 1122

021 914 3777

online @ probeauty.co.za

47

DermaFix DermaShield SPF 50 high protection sunscreen makes use of both chemical and physical UV filters, and meets all the necessary requirements as per the South African legislation. SANS 1557:2013 and ISO 24444, ISO 24443 compliant, it works to protect the skin from both damaging UVA and UVB radiation and has water resistant properties.

Repairing complex

Product Focus – Sun Protection

Strong shield

Cellular Sun Protection SPF 50+ from QMS MediCosmetics is a lightweight formulation with balanced UVA / UVB protection and a DNA-Repair Complex that provides protection against sunburn and premature light-induced skin ageing. The DNA of the skin cells are protected and the skin’s DNA repair mechanisms are activated.

011 704 0555

0860 018 022

High protection

Daily dose

The Matis Sun Protection Cream for Face SPF 50+ is a very high protection sun cream that protects against both UVA and UVB rays and protect the skin’s DNA, making this an antiageing sun care product.

It contains polysaccharides moisturisers, which provide an immediate filmforming effect and delayed moisturising effect.

From Italian certified organic brand, Team Dr Joseph, Your Daily High Protection Sun Cream SPF30 is positioned as a revolutionary skin photo-protector, with highly innovative UVA and UVB filters to help prevent pigmentation and skin ageing. With a light and nongreasy texture and unique ingredients, this cream provides extra moisture.

011 305 1600

0860 018 022

Anti-sand technology

Fabulous four

The Broad Spectrum Sun Protection SPF 50+ from SIX Sensational Skincare is formulated with innovative anti sand technology for a completely matt application, with no stickiness or oily white residue. It contains beeswax as an anti-inflammatory and powerful antiageing tocopherol.

Ideal for the most sensitive of skins and suitable as a make-up primer.

RégimA offers four Anti-Ageing Day Products that all contain highly effective UVA and UVB protection.

They are: Daily Ultra Defence; Daily Radiant Boost; Daily Intelligent Sebum-Solver; and Sensorial Daily Protection. All these products are formulated with new and proven technology.

011 615 2869

011 312 7840 online @ probeauty.co.za

Hair News

48

Crowning GLORY

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

Terrific tea tree Ideal for colour-treated hair, Paul Mitchell’s Tea Tree Special Color Shampoo leaves strands refreshingly clean and full of shine. Rooibos tea botanicals help keep colour from fading, while natural tea tree oil and peppermint soothe the scalp and light notes of lavender leave hair smelling fresh.

011 305 1600

Camera-ready The formula of INOAR Efeito Photoshop includes coconut oil and vegetable keratin to create shine, balance the pH and lend greater contrast and brilliance to the hair. In addition, cuticles are sealed to keep moisture inside the hair fibre. This line, which contains no sulfates or parabens, is released for INOAR’s Low Poo, No Poo, and Co-Wash methods.

012 346 1721

Perfect ending

Remarkable revamp

Solely distributed in South Africa

by Rapple Salon Products, Thermo Repair Perfect Ends restores damaged hair with split ends, or hair that has been destroyed by aggressive treatments.

Its powerful and immediate regenerating effect is due to a mix of natural and/ or ‘semi natural’ substances based on ceramides and derived from ‘white meadows foam’.

Schwarzkopf Professional has reformulated its BC Bonacure range using the most advanced technologies (including Micellar Technology) based on skincare-inspired ingredients. These include moisturising Hyaluronic acid, repairing peptide, colour-locking pH 4.5, plumping collagen, smoothing keratin and rejuvenating Q10+.

021 981 0032

011 617 2614

online @ probeauty.co.za

Medical Aesthetics

49

A real aesthetic make-over

Karen Ellithorne discusses how somatologists can successfully evolve into medical aesthetic therapists.

W

e have all heard the terms ‘medical aesthetic treatments’ and ‘advanced skincare treatment’ and are most probably offering some form of this treatment category in our skincare clinic already. However many of us, especially those who have been working in the industry for several years, are unsure how to groom ourselves in order to grow into an actual medical aesthetic therapist.

Loving skin and science If you are looking at getting involved in more advanced skincare treatments, you should be invested in knowledge of skincare. In order to have successful treatment outcomes, it is imperative that you have detailed knowledge of the functioning of the skin and how different active ingredients work from a more scientific perspective.

This is especially important when

Many of us, especially those who have been working in the industry for several years, are unsure how to groom ourselves in order to grow into an actual medical aesthetic therapist. looking at treating skin conditions like acne and pigmentation.

Working with some of the industry’s top cosmeceutical brands and attending their training workshops and events will dramatically help to expand your knowledge in this area. As these brands often have scientists or doctors behind them, they invest heavily in research and case studies for proven treatment outcomes and results. These doctors and scientists very often

form part of their education teams and programmes and offer a great opportunity to increase your knowledge.

Study skin physiology Even though you will be training and working with cosmeceutical brands, read, study and attend as many lectures as possible on skin physiology. When preforming these types of advanced treatments, this up to date knowledge is going to serve you well if you have a good understanding of how skin functions on the epidermis, as well as in the deeper dermis.

In South Africa it is also important to have a good knowledge of all the different photo types – Fitzpatrick 1 to 6 – and how they react to treatments.

To work as an aesthetic therapist you should attend training courses so that you are completely confident in performing skin needling, peels and laser treatments. >

online @ probeauty.co.za

Medical Aesthetics

50 Isa Carstens Academy recently launched an advanced diploma in Dermal Aesthetics.

This is a one-year diploma for qualified somatologists wanting to work with medical practitioners.

Machine know-how When working with medical aesthetic equipment like lasers, Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), micro-

needling and radiofrequency (RF) devices, it is imperative that one has a sound knowledge, not only of the functioning of the skin and how it heals post wounding treatment, but of how the equipment functions as well.

This type of high value equipment could be one of the best investments ever made for an aesthetic clinic. Or a rather expensive mistake if left in the hands of an uneducated and untrained operator.

A good understanding of how the machine works, what skin types and conditions are indicated and how to combine treatment protocols is imperative for the successful use and longevity of equipment in an advanced skincare environment.

Consultation As skin consultation is key for successful treatment outcomes in advanced skincare clinics, many have skin scanning devices that measure the skin’s sensitivity, hydration and

online @ probeauty.co.za

sebaceous secretion levels, as well pore size, depth of wrinkles and pigmentation.

This type of in-depth consultation, which can last up to 90 minutes, is imperative in putting together the skin treatment plan for the patient and measuring the treatment outcomes.

When used correctly this device will also assist to increase retail sales in a busy practice.

Be confident When performing advanced skincare treatments, you will not only be doing the treatment but supporting your customer, post treatment.

You need to have selfconfidence in yourself and the treatments that you are offering in order to be able to see the process through. Post treatment your customers will have prolonged healing, redness, irritation and in some instances, swelling. You will need to brief them before and after the treatment that this is completely normal to prevent your customer from panicking and thinking that she is having an adverse reaction of sorts. When your patients start experiencing the results, they will start to trust you more and more and the post procedure support will lessen.

Find the right employer Be on the lookout for a job in a doctor’s clinic or aesthetic practice as this is the best way

to get first-hand experience and grow into the position. Most doctors don’t want to be doing peels and needling treatments and would be very happy to have a therapist assist them with these procedures. Some of the larger clinic chains also offer in-house training on their own treatment offerings and protocols

Speak out about your specialism As an aesthetic therapist, it is very important that you remember your role and that you do not try to become doctors by association, or just a doctor’s assistant when working in their aesthetic practice.

Skincare therapists and medical aesthetic therapists are specialists in their own right. We have a high knowledge of the functioning of the skin and the active ingredients we work with, and we can achieve amazing results on the customer’s skin.

It’s important to let our customers know our speciality and separate ourselves from what the doctor offers. We work alongside medical doctors in order to give the client the best result on their skin. PB A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

Show Preview

52

Enough to make your (body)

hair fall out

Following on from our last issue where we looked at epilation products, we now focus on the latest energy based devices for hair removal.

A

n important decision to make when investing in laser hair removal devices is to acknowledge the main two categories to choose from – a dedicated laser hair removal device vs a platform device.

Says Andrew Best of Best Lasers: “I believe that dedicated laser hair removal devices are the most efficient, powerful and effective solutions for hair removal as they host diode technology. Platform devices, on the other hand, give you the option to start off with laser hair removal and at a later stage, add other applications.

“Our Soprano ICE Platinum is a dedicated diode laser hair removal device that combines three laser wavelengths into a single, innovative hand piece, simultaneously targeting different tissue depths as well as anatomical structures within the hair follicle.

This, coupled with the treatment coverage, comfort and low maintenance of the diode laser, makes it one of the safest and most comprehensive hair removal treatments available today.”

He notes that the

online @ probeauty.co.za

treatment is virtually painless, with a proven safety record that is suited to all skin types, as well as tanned skin.

Also from Best Lasers, Alma Beauty Remove achieves superior results due to its use of the patented SHR technology. It works by gradually heating the dermis to a temperature that effectively damages the hair follicles, preventing them from growing back, while protecting the surrounding skin. The hair follicles are not exposed to a single pulse of high energy, which can injure the skin, but rather receive multiple, short, low energy pulses until enough heat energy is generated to damage the hair follicle.

“On the platform device side, Alma Harmony features an array of advanced applications that allow you to provide highly effective, reliable and safe treatments for a variety of challenging skin concerns,” continues Best. “The Harmony LITE is a light-based platform for aesthetic treatments, featuring Alma Lasers proprietary Advanced Florescence Technology.

This is an advanced type of IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) that offers increased energy, enhanced clinical results, less pain and downtime, and extended lifetime of the hand piece.”

Key advantages From Best Enterprise is the Magma System, featuring Formatk

advanced 808nm diode laser technology for effective, safe and painless hair removal treatments for all skin types. The 808nm diode laser has three key advantages over older methods of epilation, namely comfort, speed and safety.

Formatk’s unique IPL technology (featuring both USP and UPC technologies) is an effective and safe hair removal procedure that applies broad-light spectrum to the surface of the skin, targeting melanin.

Says Best Enterprise’s Andy Best: “Nd:YAG hair removal is ideal for patients with darker skin and deep hairs.

The two wavelengths which can safely be used for laser hair reduction on darker skin types are the diode (808 nm) and Nd:YAG (1064 nm). In terms of efficacy, the shorter wavelength (diode) laser is generally regarded as more effective because of melanin’s higher absorption value, which decreases with increasing wavelength.

However, the longer wavelength, Nd:YAG laser is

considered ideal for treating patients with darker skin, due to reduced scatter and deeper penetration of the laser light. Also, shorter pulse durations can be more safely used with the Nd:YAG laser than with the diode.”

Selective Waveband Technology

Business Trends

53

The Ellipse Sirius uses short, safe bursts of intense pulsed light and Selective Waveband Technology to remove unwanted hair from all body sites. The results last for years.

Says Rohan Opperman of Ellipse: “A thin layer of coupling gel is applied to your skin to ensure the maximum amount of light enters the skin and the Ellipse applicator then releases a carefully controlled pulse of visible light. Potentially harmful wavelengths and wavelengths that only heat up water in the skin are removed, using patented Ellipse Dual Mode Filtering.

The remaining light is absorbed by pigment (melanin) in your hair. Melanin converts the light into heat, which travels down the hair and heats the hair matrix, preventing future hair growth.

“Clinical trials documenting Ellipse safety and effectiveness were conducted by leading doctors and published in respected medical journals.”

Spanish device The Sorisa Nora IPL from Spain features exclusive ‘Plug and Pulse’ technology, which means that lamps can be replaced with a single click without service assistance.

Says distributor Marisa Dimitriadis of The Spa Consultants: “This high performance device has longer-lasting lamps (more than 60,000 shots) and can also be used to perform hair removal as well as skin rejuvenation and acne.”

Sorisa Nora’s variable pulse technology provides a highly effective treatment and greater selectivity between the tissues, making it possible to treat phototypes I to V and all types of hair (i.e. thickness, > colour and depth of follicle).

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Trends

54 Laser and RF combo Syneron eLase, distributed by Radiant Healthcare, is an 810nm diode laser that is combined with radiofrequency (RF) and thus safer for darker skin types.

array, in order to deliver light to the target place.

Coolite Plus features ‘Jet Smooth’ technology – a high repetition rate of short pulses that are delivered deep into the dermis, achieving high average power and therapeutically effective heat build-up, with virtually no pain

Venus stable Venus Concept has two different hair removal technologies in its stable, the first is available on the multiplatform Venus Versa.

Says Melissa Eksteen of Radiant Healthcare: “The eLase performs painless hair removal and consists of a function called Active Dermal Monitoring (ADM), an integral part of the elõs technology. This skin impedance feedback mechanism provides a unique safety feature.

During the application of the RF energy portion of the pulse, the device measures changes in the skin’s impedance, indicating a change in the tissue temperature.

The impedance safely limits how much the temperature in the dermis is allowed to increase during the treatment.”

Fiber coupled Also distributed

by Radiant Healthcare, the Coolite Plus is a fiber coupled diode laser (810nm) for hair removal and permanent hair reduction. The light generated by the device is coupled into a single-core multimode fiber by micro lens

online @ probeauty.co.za

applicator has interchangeable light guides. Also, light guide sizes vary from 1.7cm2, through 3.5cm2 to 7cm2. Really small or intimate areas can be reached and treated more effectively and large areas can be covered in a very short period of time,” comments Price.

Venus Velocity has exceptional cooling technology, offers both pulse and slide mode and is indicated for all skin types, including tanned skin.

“Whereas precautions for pigmentation are still applicable to IPL technology, the combination of power ratings and rate of energy delivery, cooling system and wavelength in the Venus Velocity allows clients to enjoy their hair removal treatments even while on holiday, or just after, without having to wait for a safety period after sun exposure,” explains Price.

German technology

Says Thyrza Price of Venus Concept South Africa: “The hair removal applicator of Venus Versa features new generation IPL technology, which means power ratings and rate of energy delivery, cooling system and wavelength have been optimised for maximum comfort and efficacy. Venus Versa IPL technology is indicated and CE approved for skin types I to VI. We offer two applicators, the HR690 and the HR690XL. The standard light guide size on our IPL applicators is 1cm x 3cm; the HR690XL is 2cm x 3cm, which provides versatility to treat smaller areas comfortably, as well as to treat larger areas far quicker with a 6cm2 footprint.”

Recently launched, the Venus Velocity is a diode hair removal system that is revolutionary in its design approach and advanced features. “Velocity’s cost effective

Beauty Maschine aligned with Dr Baumann Bionome Cosmetics in Germany recently introduced new diode laser technology to South Africa, distributed by Marica Salon Solutions. The Terminator T808-A features German quality and has received the International Hair Removal Gold Standard.

Its Sapphire Touch cooling system ensures a comfortable experience and increases the energy output by 30-40%. The treatment area (12mm squared) allows one to work on a larger area with speed and efficiency, ensuring less repeat treatments per area.

Business Trends

55

Two filters A multi-application IPL, BTL Exilite emits broad-spectrum light and includes two filters for hair removal – 640nm for Skin types I-III, and 690nm for Skin types IV-V. Exilite’s extended lifetime of the flash lamp reduces operating costs for salon, plus the device has a strong power output – the fluence reaches 40J/cm2. Because it offers a quicker, faster treatment, it can treat larger areas such as the back more quickly and more effectively. The device has an advanced cooling system that makes the treatment gentle.

It offers a uniform distribution of light with gentle and effective transmission of energy on the skin for visible and long-lasting results.

An LED is included in the machine as part of the treatment to reduce erythema and inflammation.

Flagship device Distributed in South Africa by Medilase, Thunder MT, the 2018 winner of the Aesthetic Industry Award of The Aesthetic Guide, is the flagship hair removal device from Quanta Systems of Italy.

Thunder MT features Mixed technology, which comprises two different laser wavelengths – Alexandrite 755 nm and Nd:YAG 1064 nm. This synergy is able to completely denature the hair follicles with improved safety and effectiveness, even in dark skin conditions.

OptiScan TH is an optional accessory for versatility and offers multiple configurations for personalised treatments with unmatched speed. In addition, Optishape Hand pieces with Optimised Spot Shape are designed to overcome the traditional spot’s limits related to different grades of overlapping in order to increase speed, safety and effectiveness of the treatment.

Thunder MT also features AutoMotion technology for low pain treatments.

805nm diode laser with three hand pieces with various spot sizes and two advanced technologies – Vacuum Assisted High-Speed Integrated Technology (HIT™) and ChillTip™ Technology.

Globally recognised as the Gold Standard Laser Hair Removal Technology is LightSheer Desire Light, an 810nm diode laser (previously named LightSheer ET). This entry level photoepilation system is clinically well documented and is FDA approved for all skin types (Fitzpatrick I–VI), including tanned skin.

LightSheer Duet is equipped with a 9x9mm applicator and a 22 x 35mm applicator with vacuumassist HIT™ technology. It includes two optimal wavelength 805nm diode hair removal systems with two hand pieces. PB

Prime portfolio The Lumenis portfolio of LightSheer hair removal lasers distributed by Hitech Lasers have a long track record of safety and efficacy.

LightSheer Desire is the very popular portable and upgradable

online @ probeauty.co.za

Product News

56

market IN THE

Our round-up of new products and treatments.

Zesty candle The TheraVine AromaVine Lemon Zest Candle is a 100% natural, spa inspired synergistic blend of plant waxes and butter infused with botanicals designed to relax, moisturise and nourish your skin. It can soften and smooth dry skin, elbows or feet and can be used as a luxurious cuticle treatment, as well as a general hand and body moisturiser.

021 886 6623

PROFESSIONAL SKIN CREAM WITH A MAGICAL TOUCH ™

Non-surgical lift

Magical cream

LCN has launched an innovative Plasma Treatment as an effective alternative to skin tightening surgeries, guaranteeing immediate results. This treatment generates plasma flashes that penetrate the skin, without direct contact with the skin.

The resulting tiny vaporisation point contracts and tightens the skin, stimulating new cell regeneration.

Formulated with six natural ingredients, Egyptian Magic Skin Cream is a multipurpose cream that can be used as a face moisturiser, make-up primer; hydrating face mask; lip balm, eye cream, make-up remover, after-sun, body cream, hand and cuticle cream and to treat eczema and psoriasis, among many other uses.

010 593 3293

082 361 5099

PRESS KIT

online @ probeauty.co.za

57 Product News

Complex formulation Vitaderm’s Aromatic Complex is an ultrafine formulation that combines essential oils and plant extracts to ensure excellent conditioning of the skin. Phyto extracts such as rosewood, orange blossom, geranium, and sandalwood assist in balancing sebaceous secretion and protect the skin. The Aromatic Complex provides protection against moisture loss.

Gents only Gentlemen’s Tonic’s Advanced Derma-Care is positioned as the world’s first cosmeceutical skincare range designed and developed exclusively for men. It uses only powerful, natural, active ingredients including a carefully selected combination of peptides and amino acids, bio-available nutrients and intelligent proteins.

021 914 3777

All in the lips DermaFix LipFix is formulated with an active blend of lip perfecting and plumping technology that adds natural definition, enhances shape and colour and gradually plumps lips for a fuller and firmer appearance. This innovative product delivers a sun-kissed and buttery pout that will delight those seeking perfect and protected lips.

021 863 0373

086 128 2323

A ‘lifting’ experience New from RVB Lab The Make Up, the HD Lifting Effect Foundation is formulated with myo-relaxing properties from Perfect-Lift complex, derived from the Spilanthes Acmella herb. This soft, creamy foundation produces a smoothing effect, with long lasting, buildable medium coverage. Active ingredients include Wakame extract.

021 701 2900 online @ probeauty.co.za

Classifieds

58

BECOME A CERTIFIED EYELASH EXTENTIONIST NOW! Training offered in Classic, Advanced Classic, 2D-6D Volume, Eyelash Tinting, Threading, Lash Art, FlashLash with Free Refresher Courses.

We are the therapists preferred training supplier because • First company to introduce lash extensions to S.A. 10 years ago • Internationally Accredited Courses • Training offered in most major Centers and Internationally • All Franchise Trainers have international certification in Classic and/or Volume Lashes • Our head trainer is the first and only South African to receive international recognition as a LASH MASTER and she has won a LashInc 2015 international lash artist of the year award •

Most comprehensive kits and widest product range

• •

Affordable products from the USA – no cheap Chinese imports Exclusive brand

•

Promote you as an accredited salon via our Salon Finder on our website

•

Easy on-line ordering with an Exclusive Loyalty Program

Daily skin care routine for mature women that combats the visible signs of ageing

Enrol now and receive our Anniversary Training Specials.

Tel: +27(12) 804 6443 info@skinergy.co.za | www.skinergy.co.za

072 338 7000

info@luscious.co.za

www.eyelashextensions.co.za

Training Centers: Cape Town, Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Garden Route, Mpumalanga, North West, Seychelles, Mauritius

Get connected! Be inspired!

Sign up via www.probeauty.co.za

Living Your Life Like Its

Golden

To advertise in the Classifieds call our sales team on 011 781 5970

The newest popular colour system in South Africa a professional hand_printed with pigments from South Africa, Environmental non_toxic, no odor with durable, the colour of fresh, indelible colour and other characteristics, our principle is quality is our life we should grasp firmly in order to make the customers feel safe and relieved to use our products.

For more information contact: 0741287161 or visit our website www.redvelvetgel.net

#LamarieSA

Beauty Salon?

Finally Lamarie now affords you the opportunity to become a stockist of our uniquely formulated skin care range. A professional knows, confident skin is always the order of the day.

SHOP NOW Lamarie Cosmetics boasts a versatile range of skin care products created to meet the needs of all skin types - be skin-confident.

online @ probeauty.co.za

www.lamarie.co.za 010 597 7105

Issue 22

Sept 2018

Boomerang effect

How to ensure return clients

Here comes the bride!

Shutterstock

Wedding nails

In living colour The theory of hues and shades

A

s this issue of NailFile was going to press, the first Tip Box entries for our Annual Nail Design Competition started trickling in. It’s always hugely exciting to have these intriguing boxes arrive and then to eagerly open them and discover the exciting nail design treasures that lie within.

If the first few entries are anything to go by, we will have a superb standard of work in this competition.

We have a fascinating article in this issue on how to apply colour theory in your nail services, be it for polish, gel, acrylic or nail art. As a nail tech, you can utilise your knowledge of colour theory to enhance your professional standing by pointing out which colours complement your client’s skin tone.

Another important article relates to what personal touches you can add to your services to ensure that those clients keep coming back.

As one of our experts points out – it is important to make clients feel like they are part of your business. It is also important to customise your treatments to suit particular clients and to create an entire experience for them.

Issue 22

Sept 2018

S h u t t e r s t o c k

Welcome

60

Boom

erang How to en sure returneffect clients Here com es

In living c olour

the bride!

Wedding

The theory

of hues an

nails

d shades

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

What’s inside Nail File

62

66

69

61

66

69

News

Style Savvy

Nail Health

62

67

70

Ask the Experts

Product Hub

Top Tech Talk

Stay in the know

Personal touches to ensure client retention

64 Salon Focus

Upstairs, downstairs

online @ probeauty.co.za

Bridal nails

The latest launches

68 The colourful world of nails Colour theory

Nail Nurture – Part 5.1

Andrea Smith

61 News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips

Steady growth predicted for nail market

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he global nail care market is expected to grow at a CAGR (Compound Annual Growth Rate) of 3.74% in the period up until 2021, according to a recent report by Research and Markets.

Analysts from Research and

Markets further predict that the worldwide market for nail polish is expected to reach $15.55bn by 2024, growing at a CAGR of 9.5%.

Another report, this time by Transparency Market Research and titled ‘Nail Care Market—

Global Industry Analysis and Forecast 2017-2022’, states that the sales of premium nail care products, which are often sold in salons as well as prestige retailers, are projected to exceed $6.8m by the end of 2022.

Young wins Calgel nail art competition The Calgel 2018 Gel Nail Art Competition has been won by Annamarie Young of Pretoria-based home nail salon, Salon Annamarie.

Says Calgel’s Elaine Timcke: “We opened the competition to the public to vote and Annamarie had the most votes – people really loved her work.

“We were amazed at the entries we received and the level of work that South African nail techs are capable of. The theme was simply, ‘South Africa’, and it was great to see the wonderful way that each nail tech used their own creative talent to present something completely unique.”

Mia Secret SA expands reach Launched a year ago, Mia Secret SA, founded by Morné Louw de Souza and Tessa Tulues, recently added a wholesaler in Mauritius to its network of 11 wholesalers in South Africa.

Says Mia Secret SA’s Tessa Tulues: “I think that what sets Mia Secret apart is that our education is so detailed and on an international standard. Mia Secret is based in California and their techniques are amazing.

Our products don’t require much filing because their quality and texture is so fine.

“We are able to access training from all over the world to stay absolutely current trend with the latest global trends. Mia Secret is now in over 60 countries and offers a huge variety of products and colours. Our academy in South Africa is presently awaiting its VCTC and ITEC accreditation.”

Mia Secret SA is vested in social

responsibility programmes and has become a sponsor for the Anaïs Be Your Dream LifeLine Project. The company is also a sponsor for Copperstone Productions Humanitarian of the Year Awards, which take place on 10 November at Johannesburg’s Indaba Hotel.

“We are sponsoring nail courses to further ladies in less fortunate circumstances,” notes Tulues.

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ask

the experts

QUESTION: What little personal touches can I add to keep my clients coming back?

CARMEN DANTU Always keep in mind that your clients’ needs come before your own. Ensure that you keep in contact with them and record all their details on your consultation card – from birthdays to engagements to special occasions, all of which they may discuss with you.

Message them on the day, or talk about it in their next visit.

You need to pay attention to the client and acknowledge any mistakes that may have happened in the salon.

Remember that the client’s

loyalty starts from the moment they phone you for an appointment, so they must be met with politeness and feel as if you are going out of your way to help them. Greet clients by their name, offer them a beverage and make them feel welcome.

Offer clients a complimentary hand massage when getting their nails done and be attentive to their needs, especially when booking the next appointment, or regarding retailing. It is very important to speak your client’s language and involve them in

every aspect of your business.

A successful business is not all about focusing on how many appointments you can book, it’s more important to keep clients coming back. Listen to what clients have to say and don’t be too pushy for a sale.

African consumers like loyalty programmes because of the tight economy. However, the challenge is to find the correct way of executing the programme to ensure client participation; the most successful rewards programmes add value to consumers first. Less successful programmes are the ones that are too demanding of clients, such as expecting them to spend a substantial amount first before they receive a small reward. For example, ‘Receive your 10th treatment at discount or for free’ could mean that they would have to spend something like R4,500 over nine months to get a R500

reward in return. This will not motivate a client to stay committed to your business.

Work out a unique rewards programme that attracts new clients and retains current ones.

Clients will also automatically share a great programme with their friends.

Carmen Dantu is the principal at the Beauty Therapy Institute @ Sorbet Rivonia.

YVETTE NEL Quality execution in services is the most important. As a salon owner you need to know the step by step service routines of every treatment offered in the salon to ensure staff delivers their best to ensure client retention.

Secondly, offering the latest and greatest in trends and techniques in services and retail shows that your salon is up to date. Clients like seeing new things, like seasonal colours, latest nail art techniques and nails shapes, etc.

Thirdly, offer a rewards programme. Most South

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Yvette Nel is a diverse nail, health and beauty influencer with 14 years of experience in nail/beauty salons, education, marketing, retail and distribution. Nel is the founder of Trend Mi Life.

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG There are number of ways to make your clients feel special, the first being to meet their expectations, so conduct a thorough consultation to determine what needs to be done.

Next, customise your treatments to suit particular clients’ needs.

This makes the treatment unique and specific, and makes the client feel that you are interested in them.

Thirdly, create an experience.

Yes, even an ordinary manicure or pedicure service can be turned into something extraordinary, making it luxurious, beneficial and memorable – almost like a facial for the hands and feet. For example, use intensive hydrating treatment products, warm towels, heated mittens and special massage techniques.

Always finish your treatment like a pro. It’s all very well achieving perfectly shaped nails, meticulous cuticles and softer, smoother skin, but if your polish or gel polish application is not perfect, it will affect the entire treatment and service. Follow through by providing a perfectly flawless application that is going to last.

Always remember to use your polishes and coatings as an entire system to ensure service longevity.

Also, have a good selection of the latest colour collections.

Use your resources and imagination to create your very own signature treatments and services that are unique to you.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 28 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

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Remove the protection sticker from the image plate • Choose the desired image and apply the MoYou special nail varnish • Use the MoYou scraper to remove excess, using a 45° angle • Roll the MoYou stamp to pick up the image (Tip: Do not use force when stamping and do not roll more than once) • Roll stamp on nail thoroughly from one side to the other • Apply MoYou Top Coat for longer lasting results.

Please note that we have relocated our office to: 25 Hampton Court Road, Gallo Manor Our new office number is 011 656 4474 Email info@moyou.co.za website: www.moyou.co.za

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Upstairs, downstairs

Uniquely positioned in the market, the nail services offering of upmarket salon business, YouBar, spans across two floors of Johannesburg’s Thrupps Illovo Centre. Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to YouBar co-owner, Lara Wicksteed, to find out more.

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he original incarnation of YouBar was a compact store on Corlett Drive in Illovo, which focused on expert nail treatments and was founded by Barbara Young and Taryn Fernandes.

Says YouBar head of Taining & Operations, Lara Wicksteed, who is also a co-owner in the business.

“A year ago, two stores became available at the Thrupps Centre and Taryn and Barbara made the decision to move there and expand by opening a dry bar that would include wash & blow dry services, as well as nails. However, there was such a demand for

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hairdressing that YouBar Hair & Nail offers the full spectrum of hair services and has two stylists.

“The hair division of YouBar, which includes two dedicated manicure stations and three luxurious pedicure stations with built-in basins, is situated on the lower level of the centre, opposite the Thrupps Grocery Store. Often clients will opt to have a mani and pedi during their hair service.

“Our upstairs store, which opened after YouBar Hair & Nail, is a combination of what we had in Corlett Drive. YouBar Nail + Skin offers nail services, facials, massages, waxing and lash extensions.”

As one would expect, there

are marked similarities in the striking and chic décor at both stores. Wicksteed describes the style as ‘modern, earthy and contemporary’, with a lot of copper fittings, especially in the downstairs store.

While both stores look similar, there is a marked difference in atmosphere between the two; the upstairs store has a calm and serene feel, while downstairs is much more ‘vibey’, with trendy music and the sound of hairdryers in action.

Cross-selling The YouBar setup offers the business an excellent opportunity to cross-sell services between the two stores.

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“This is obviously something that we encourage the staff to do, as we want our guests to enjoy the full YouBar experience,” continues Wicksteed. “For instance, as anyone who has ever had a facial will know, your hair is tied back and flattened and this then ruins your hairdo. So clients can just go to the downstairs store for a quick wash and blow dry after their facials.”

She notes that YouBar recently ran a promotion whereby downstairs guests were offered a massage at the upstairs store. “We did this as we had noticed a bit of a segregation between our hair and skin clients.

This promo proved very successful and really raised awareness, as a lot of our hair clients weren’t aware of what was on offer upstairs.”

Brand proud Wicksteed notes that YouBar is very proud of its high end brands and all are showcased in each store to full advantage.

In terms of nails, YouBar offers Gelish, Morgan Taylor, CND Shellac, CND Vinylux and IBX. For manis and pedis, guests enjoy ‘The Africology Ritual’.

“I think that what is unique about YouBar is that we offer top quality brands, but at reasonable prices,” she comments. “For instance, for a file & paint service with Vinylux, we would charge the same as if we were using polish. What we offer is

opulent, premium and affordable; it’s not just a service, it’s a full on experience.”

Nails aplenty The full spectrum of nail services, namely manis, pedis, file, buff & paint, gel overlays, acrylic, nail art and repair treatments, are offered at both stores.

There are three specialist nail techs downstairs and four upstairs, as well as some therapists who are all-rounders.

“Often clients will request a particular nail tech and we note that in our system. The lead specialist nail tech is Winnie Makombe, who manages all the other nail techs. I believe that nail art is very big at YouBar because of Winnie – she has a big following and her own webpage, which is linked to ours,” says Wckstead.

Makombe adds: “My nail art is free-hand and tailor made according to guest demand. At the moment, floral designs, pineapples and sparkles are very popular among clients, as winter is over.

The most unusual nail art I ever had to do was a wedding dress and a tuxedo. There are lots of requests for Harry Potter-themed nail art, as well as for ‘Minions’.

“I’ve found that while some guests do request acrylic, most people want Shellac and Gelish services.”

Wicksteed emphasises that YouBar is continuously upscaling and pushing the bar in terms of education and trends. “So, for instance, if a nail tech notices that a client’s nails are in a bad condition, she will recommend that they have an IBX treatment for their next appointment.”

Accessibility Apart from its customer service and wide array of treatments and brands, a big selling point of YouBar is its extensive operating hours. Both stores are open seven days a week, on weekdays from 7am to 7pm, and Saturdays and Sundays from 9am to 3pm.

YouBar employs a total of 31 staff. As to who manages the stores, while Wicksteed herself is at YouBar every day, she tries to empower her front desk staff to manage their stores. Feedback from clients indicates that guests do like to have an owner on site.

Another factor in YouBar’s favour is its active loyalty scheme, where clients earn points for each service. In addition, on every Monday and Tuesday, there is 15% off every single service. Wicksteed notes that clients do track these special offers and that’s how a lot of loyalty is built up.

The future Interestingly, the owners have no plans to franchise YouBar as they want to keep the brand exclusive.

“This allows us to keep paying attention to detail and ensure consistency in services,” concludes Wicksteed.

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Style Savvy

66

THE

BigDAY

One of the most important days in many a girl’s life is her wedding day, a day when everything is meant to be perfect – from her dress right down to her nails, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

A

bride’s hands and nails are what will be showcased when that stunning, shiny new ring is placed on her finger. No longer are brides’ nails either polished in just a classic French or a gentle shimmery shade, in shorter to medium lengths and softer shapes.

Bridal nail trends have evolved dramatically over the years. There is now a wider choice and somewhat of a twist on the usual classic French, as well as the use of more dramatic, sophisticated shades and the addition of nail enhancements, designs, embellishments and even glitter.

French still seems to be an all-time favourite for brides, however

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most definitely not the classic French. Whether a bride is wearing enhancements, or prefers her own natural nails, different shades of white and sheers can be combined to create the most elegant twist on French.

Should the bride opt for enhancements, then you have absolute artistic freedom to construct looks beyond your wildest imagination. This can be with a more dramatic shape and length; in fact, nail lengths for brides are now definitely longer and shapes range from almond to coffin or ballerina to stiletto.

Extending nail beds with enhancements in an array of striking cover colour shades and a free edge with

sparkly white is a very popular trend, as is the French fade with a variety of options and colours that can be combined. 3D flowers and creations can provide a more elaborate finish.

Although softer shades of sheer pinks, pearls and nudes are still a popular bridal choice for a more traditional romantic look, you can glam it up with an accent finger in a complementary shade of soft gold, silver or even a chrome effect in mother of pearl or rose gold.

You can adorn the nails with some rhinestones, foil, or an elegant design of swirls and latticework.

For brides wanting to be daring and different, well then it can be whatever you want it to be using riskier brighter, bolder colours.

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.

Sweet collection Jessica has launched the luscious and toothsome long-lasting wear Sugar Town Summer Phenom Collection. The colours are: Laffy Taffy (bubblegum pink); Red Hots (hip, poppy-bright red); and Gumdrop (radiant white). These shades are available individually, or in a five-pack that also includes Bend Don’t Break base coat and Phenom Finale Shine top coat.

011 454 8119

Best of both worlds LCN’s Fusion Poly-Acryl Gel is stronger than gel but more flexible than acrylic and combines the advantages of both systems. It is extremely break resistant and durable, with no mixing required and no odour. This systems offers nail techs easy, fast application and perfect results.

010 593 3293

Fabulous fluorescents Bio Sculpture has introduced six new Evo fluorescent colours. Shades include: Arina ‘The Beloved’ (an Autumn toned red); Emily (yellow); Marianna (bright blazing blue); Rhiannon (playful hot pink); Diana (ultimate ultra violet); and Linn (coral).

0861 246 435

Goodbye to stains Take a serious stand against tough stains with Young Nails Stain Resistant Gel Top Coat.

This top coat is resistant to hair dye, spray tan, food and cigarettes.

011 393 2791 online @ probeauty.co.za

Business In the Market Trends

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Hues & Shades

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The colourful world of nails Sonette van Rensburg reveals how to apply colour theory to nails.

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olour, colour everywhere – the nail world abounds with colour. Polishes, gel polishes, nail enhancements and nail designs come in a plethora of hues and shades. These are hugely influenced by the latest fashion trends, what the celebrities are wearing, and by global colour authority, the Pantone Institute.

Most clients will come into your salon and ask for a certain colour or nail design, however, have they considered whether the colour would actually suit them or not?

Although there are different skin colours due to diverse ethnicities, there are a number of variations in all skin tones. These tones are classified into temperatures, with either a cooler or warmer undertone. Fair skins typically have blue or pink undertones, making them cool, whereas darker skins generally have more yellow or olive undertones, making them warmer.

It’s quite a skill to be able to choose the correct colour for your client, combined with a bit of science. Certain colours can enhance and liven up skin tones and complement them just

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perfectly, while others just make them look dull and plain. For example, very fair skin tones look good in red and moderate shades of purple and pinks, emitting a more classic look with the contrast of deeper colours and lighter skin.

Medium to fair skins look good in brighter shades of oranges, pinks and blues (an added bit of sparkle or metallic texture to the nails will really make these shades pop against this skin tone). Darker, more olive skins can carry off more muted and darker colours in almost any shade, as well as brighter, more vibrant shades, in fact they can carry off almost any colour. Colours like black, burgundy, dark green and navy blue go well with very dark skin tones.

The great thing about doing nails is that you can experiment with a variety of colours and techniques and combine them to create your own unique shades and looks. Layering colours on top of one another is another great technique to achieve a different aspect, especially with polishes and gel polishes.

Complementing this with accent fingers can achieve a gorgeous, distinguishing look.

Colour wheel If you have attended a basic nail design course then you have probably been introduced to the colour wheel, an ingenious way of showing colours and their relationship to one another.

Although colour wheels are particularly used in fine art, the guiding principles for combining and mixing colours is quite helpful and it is a great little device to assist with nail design.

The colour wheel shows the spectrum of coloured light found in white sunlight and breaks up colours into four main groups: Primary Colours – these are pure pigments that cannot be made by mixing colours together; Secondary Colours – these are two equal parts of primary colours mixed together; Tertiary Colours – these are equal parts of a primary colour mixed with its closest secondary colour; Complementary Colours – these are situated directly opposite one another on the colour wheel and also show what these would be like if they were combined with one another.

Nail Nurture – Part 5.1:

Safe mani and pedi procedures Sonette van Rensburg takes an in-depth look into what affects the nails with regards to illnesses, medication, contraindications and performing services and treatments.

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his edition of the Nail Nurture series will be written in two parts, due to the amount of pertinent information that has to be covered in this all-important topic.

It is vital that nail techs learn what affects the nail with regards to illness, as well as medication, and how to identify nail conditions, disorders and diseases, and to know whether these are contraindicated for nail treatments.

Understanding the differences between these diseases and disorders, whether they are contagious or not, what causes them, and how these conditions are dealt with is what is going to make all the difference in ensuring they are not spread or made worse.

It’s amazing to see how some nail techs have suddenly become doctors and are diagnosing conditions, prescribing medication and sometimes even trying to treat conditions themselves and thereby causing untold harm to their clients. Nail techs are not doctors; having knowledge about certain conditions and being able to identify them does not mean you can treat them.

A nail tech is only qualified to perform services on a healthy

client with healthy nails and skin, with no visible signs of injury, illness or disease and not abnormal skin or nail conditions of the feet or hands. In many countries nail techs are prohibited by law from diagnosing or treating certain abnormal skin and nail conditions, diseases and disorders, or clients with serious medical conditions.

We need to remember that the nail unit is quite intricate and that there are a number of factors that can affect it, leading to disorders and disease of the nail and surrounding skin, causing it to become abnormal. It is therefore highly important to practice safe procedures when performing any nail treatments and services and working with the natural nail, to prevent damage or trauma and the spread of disease-causing pathogens.

Some diseases and disorders of the skin and nails can be very harmful and contagious leading to various problems and sometimes even permanent damage, or even the loss of the entire nail plate. This could be as a result of a trauma to the nail through incorrect manicure techniques, malpractice, poor hygiene, trauma, heat, chemicals, or other factors such as poor nutrition and even ill health.

Therefore only qualified medical doctors and podiatrists are allowed to diagnose and remove corns, bunions, warts and ingrown toenails, as well as treat serious and contagious nail conditions, diseases or disorders.

So before you go playing doctor, if you don’t know what you are dealing with, then rather be the nail professional who is well informed and properly educated, who makes the right choices by giving sound advice and making proper and professional recommendations for your client’s safety.

Don’t miss the ‘follow on’ of this article in the October/November issue of NailFile, where we talk about treating clients with serious illnesses such as diabetes, circulatory problems and those taking chronic medications, as well as the unsafe and unhealthy practices which are being performed. Internationallyrecognised scientist, author and educator, Doug Shoon, will also enlighten us about the risks of the Russian manicure, removing callouses, the cutting of cuticles and living skin, as well as the importance of hygiene and sanitation.

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Business Nail Trends Health

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Q&A

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Top Tech Talk NailFile talks to nail tech, Andrea Smith, about how a relative newcomer to the industry managed to start a successful home salon, Forever Lavish Nails & Beauty in Noordheuwel, Krugersdorp.

What first sparked your interest in nails?

It was my aunt, Tina Stylianou.

She was a beautician and had her own beauty salon when I was very young and whenever we visited her, she would do my nails and I absolutely loved it.

Was it the only thing you ever really wanted to do?

Yes, from about the age of six I adored everything to do with nails. I used to buy so many nail polishes that my mom would eventually want to stop buying them for me. Yet I would still ask Father Christmas for nail polish and tips, and then my mom had to buy them for me in order for me to still think he existed. I remember sticking the tips on my nails with Prestik and thinking I had the best nails around.

Where did you do your nail training and when?

My first ever nail training was in 2015 with Bio Sculpture West Rand. My parents paid for the course as a birthday present because they knew I had such a passion for the industry. They have always been there for me and encouraged me to follow my dreams. After completing my training, I started doing nails part time and only went full time into it at the end of 2016. My husband helped me to go into nails full time as he has always believed in me and pushed me to be the best I can be. I am so grateful to him.

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What made you want to open your own nail business?

To be honest, I wanted to open my own salon from a young age, however after matric I chose to study a business and marketing degree at Monash University. It has benefited me tremendously in opening up my own salon and helping to market myself.

I initially started the salon as a part-time business with a table in one of the rooms at my parent’s home. At the beginning of last year I decided to turn the bottom part of the house into a salon. My mom helped me give the whole room a facelift, so it could look modern and have a salon feel to it.

I believe you have already expanded your salon by bringing in another nail tech?

Yes and it’s all thanks to Tania Biddle, Bio Sculpture’s head of education. Tania has helped me to get to where I am today with my career and she has always pushed me to take chances. Last year in April I was offered a position at Bio Sculpture head office as an educator. This exciting position limited my salon time so I became fully booked quite quickly to the point where I was then unable to

I feel that the nail industry is not always taken as seriously as it should be. By professionalising it, I feel that technicians, as well as the industry, would gain more respect. accommodate any new clients.

This is when Tania stepped in and recommended that Juanita Bester join me at my salon and I couldn’t have asked for anyone better.

Does your salon offer any services other than nails?

Yes we do. Since Juanita joined, I have sent her on a few courses.

We also offer waxing, eyelash

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extensions, eyebrow and eyelash tinting, paraffin dips, manicures and pedicures. In time we will keep adding to the treatments we offer, however our time is mostly taken up by gel overlays and nail art.

A quick glance at your Facebook page shows some stunning nail art – did you do art at school?

Yes, I took art until matric. I also try my best to stay up to date with nail art trends and techniques to keep my clients excited for each appointment. While I love doing all nail art, I do have a specific style and that always tends to lean toward the elegant side of nail art and anything bling. The majority of my clients request nail art.

desired effect. I can’t even begin to explain what mess I used to make and nothing I did would work. Eventually I figured out all the tricks and got it right. I still remember the excitement I felt the moment I got it right for the first time.

Where do you think nail art is headed in the future?

I feel that as time goes by and fashion evolves, so does nail art.

Ladies are getting less shy and are starting to experiment more with their nails by incorporating their own styles into their sets.

Technicians are even starting to experiment by using all sorts of different ideas and products together to create new looks and trends.

Please describe the most challenging nail art you’ve ever done.

Please talk about your activities as an educator.

That would have to be water marbling, where you use nail polish and water to achieve a

I am an educator for Bio Sculpture South Africa and assist Bio Sculpture West Rand with training

too when I am able to. Having been an educator for just over a year, I can say I really enjoy it and feel that I am learnIing a lot about the brand and the industry as each day goes by. It’s an amazing brand to work with, everyone feels like family.

There has been some talk in the beauty industry recently about the need to professionalise the nail sector. Please comment.

I feel that the nail industry is not always taken as seriously as it should be. By professionalising it, I feel that technicians, as well as the industry, would gain more respect.

I see you have over 2,700 followers on your Facebook page?

What an honor to have so many people follow my Forever Lavish Nails & Beauty page! It makes me feel proud of myself, Juanita and the work we are doing. At the end of the day, our clients are the ones who keep us going. Without them we wouldn’t be where we are today so I would like to thank each and every one of them for their ongoing support.

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