Professional Beauty SA

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

incorporating

HEALTHY TRAVELS WELLNESS TOURISM

Sept 2019 | probeauty.co.za

FOUNTAIN DEFT OF YOUTH DEVICES SKIN REJUVENATION TREATMENTS

MACHINE-BASED HAIR REMOVAL

focus on

FLAWLESS conquer with

CLARITY+

Take charge and help your clients to conquer confidence-crushing breakouts and reveal clear, healthy-looking skin with Environ’s new Focus Care™ Clarity+ Range.

Why clients will choose the new Environ Focus Care Clarity+ Range: The solution to breakout-free, healthy-looking skin is clear with the new Clarity+ Range. This innovative 3-phase system offers a complete skincare solution that is tough on breakouts but easy on skin. Each phase contains products that have been specifically formulated to help Clean, Control and Clear the root causes of breakouts by giving your client’s skin what it needs where it needs it most. For optimal results, clients should combine the Clarity+ Range with a course of Professional Peels, and in time, they should step-up their daily dose of topical vitamin A products.

Why stock the new Environ Focus Care Clarity+ Range: Consumer demand is at an all-time high as studies have shown that approximately 9.4% of the global population is affected by acne breakouts. Therefore as the 8th most prevalent disease worldwide, the confidence-crushing impact caused by painful and inflammatory acne breakouts can lead to serious depression and even suicidal tendencies among sufferers.

It is therefore critical that your clients take early action and prevent breakouts by using a specialist skincare system comprised of the right products containing the most intelligent ingredient combinations that work with breakout-prone skin.

In the clinical trials run by the the Environ Skincare Institute, 100% of the trialists said that they would recommend the Clarity+ Range because they felt that their breakouts had been successfully treated.

Key to the range’s success is the combined daily use of the Sebu-Lac Lotion and Sebu-ACE Oil, and the addition of the Sebu-Clear Masque every second day.

Encourage your clients to #ConquerWithClarity+ so that they can #FocusOnFlawless skin that looks clear and healthy. Environ will provide in-depth product training, an exciting marketing toolkit as well as Global Brand digital and social media support.

Contact Environ Distribution South Africa at 011 262 0264 to find out more about the Focus Care Clarity+Range and how you can give your client’s skin more of what it needs to conquer confidence-crushing breakouts.

Clearly it’s Clarity+.

18

40

In this issue...

44

Regulars

Spa Focus

7 Industry news

28 Amani opens flagship spa in Houghton

Local and international news

39 Crowning glory

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

Aesthetic Medicine

46 In the market

44 Necessary inflammation

All the latest launches

48 SAAHSP

Innovation and African luxury

News from the Professional Body

Controlled injury to the skin

Special Features 21 Hold back the clock

Business

15 Insider

40 Smooth times ahead

Tracking the industry with stats

Hair removal devices

Treatment Reviews

18 Ask the Experts

Skin rejuvenation

All your questions answered

21 An eye-opening experience

Case Study

22 A very ‘Clear’ strategy

31 A touch of Class

When retail sales exceed treatment sales

Black Pearl Lux Lift Collagen Facial

32 All about collagen

Wellness

24 Talking to…Anne Dimon

GDL (Gravity Defying Lashes)

Wellness tourism takes root

24

DermaFix Collagen Lift Treatment

Nails 49 NailFile

Issue 28 online @ probeauty.co.za

Welcome

2

O

ur lead news story focuses on a very important issue – that of compliance with the National Minimum Wage, which came into effect this year. As per law, no salon or spa may pay any employee less than R20 for each ordinary hour worked.

An interview with the CEO of the National Bargaining Council for the Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty & Skincare Industry, Stephen Delport, revealed that it’s become evident that many beauty business are not complying with the National Minimum Wage, and that failure to comply will have serious legal and financial repercussions.

What also became clear in the interview is that many salons and spas do not realise that the Bargaining Council is a statutory regulatory body set up according to the Labour Relations Act, and that it is mandatory for them to register with it.

The wellness trend has become almost synonymous with spas these days, with many spa business now using the term ‘wellness’ in their positioning in the market and in their treatment offerings. Wellness has also very much infiltrated the travel sector, with so-called ‘wellness holidays’ on the rise. However, ‘wellness’ is rather a nebulous term, meaning different things to different people, which is why we are delighted to run in this issue, an interview with Anne Dimon, the CEO and co-founder of the Wellness Tourism Association (WTA), who provides clear industry definitions for wellness and wellness travel.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

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Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970 Sales Manager Alexandra Norvall

HEALTHY TRAVELS WELLNESS TOURISM

Sept 2019 | probeauty.co.za

FOUNTAIN DEFT OF YOUTH DEVICES SKIN REJUVENATION TREATMENTS

MACHINE-BASED HAIR REMOVAL

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970

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7 News

News Salons and spas urged to comply with National Minimum Wage The National Bargaining Council for the Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty & Skincare Industry (HCSBC) is urging all salons and spas in South Africa to adhere to the National Minimum Wage, which stipulates that no employee may earn less than R20 for each ordinary hour worked.

This wage excludes any other category of payment, such as transport and food allowances, tools, accommodation, gratuities, etc.

Says HCSBC CEO Stephen Delport: “The National Minimum Wage Act No. 9 of 2018 became effective on 1 January this year but it’s become apparent that many beauty businesses are still ignoring it. They need to know that failure to comply will have serious legal and financial repercussions. Any employer found to be non-compliant could be referred to the CCMA by the employee affected.

“I am in constant contact with the Department of Labour and know for a fact that they are currently placing a big focus on the beauty industry to check compliance on this matter. They were out in the industry from 22 to 27 July, conducting inspections.”

Employers who are unable to pay the R20 an hour wage can apply to the Department of Labour for an exemption.

Statutory body Delport emphasises the need for the beauty industry to understand that the Bargaining Council is a statutory regulatory body that was set up according to the Labour Relations Act. “There seems to be this misconception in the industry that the Bargaining Council is a big bad wolf, out to close salons. This is completely untrue; the fact is that any beauty, skincare or nail salon, or spa, is required by law to register their business with the Barganing Council after they have been operating for 30 days. As such, the Bargaining Council is fully entitled to send its agents out into the industry to check for compliance in terms of the Collective Agreement. Ignorance of the law is no excuse. Our agents also play a mediation role to assist compliance.”

‘The Parties’ He notes that it is ‘The Parties’ of the Bargaining Council, which comprise the employers’ organisation (EOHCB) and the employees’ organisation (UASA – The Union), that negotiate the Collective Agreement on behalf of their members.

“While it’s not mandatory for employers to join the EOHCB, or for employees to join UASA, there are significant membership benefits in each organisation.

Plus, as members, they have a say in the Collective Agreement negotiations, which take place either annually or alternatively, every three years.

“The EOHCB and UASA assist their members with all matters pertaining to the employer/ employee relationship and negotiate on behalf of their members. Those who do not join either the EOHCB or UASA will be subject to an agency fee,” states Delport.

For more information about the National Minimum Wage go to www.hcsbc.co.za

Global skincare products market to reach $183bn by 2025 Increasing demand for natural, herbal and organic products that have no adverse effects is expected to boost the global market growth of skincare products to reach $183 billion by 2025, according to new research from ReportBuyer.

Growth is projected to expand at CAGR (Compound Annual Growth Rate) of 4.5% over the forecast period.

Other factors cited by ReportBuyer as spurring the growth of the global market are rising concerns regarding skin

problems, as well as increasing awareness about natural ingredients providing UV protection.

The research further states: “With the rising geriatric population, demand for products with anti-ageing properties is expected grow, thereby driving the overall market. Organic skincare product manufacturers will focus more on the development of newer formulations targeted at fighting the effects of skin ageing.”

ReportBuy does, however, note that two factors may actually hamper market growth, the

first being that increased concerns regarding authenticity of products has been encouraging emerging manufacturers to enter the market. Secondly, the high costs of organic and natural skincare products will also likely negatively affect market growth.

The face cream segment led the global skincare products market in 2017, accounting for 48.5% of the market share, and will maintain the dominance throughout the estimated period, predicts ReportBuyer. online @ probeauty.co.za

News

10

inbrief // South African-founded skincare brand, Environ , was voted a ‘Top Medical Skin Care’ company in the 2019 Aesthetic Everything

Floating hotel and spa to open in Swedish Arctic

and Cosmetic Medicine Awards.

// With rising consumer awareness about the possible negative impacts of animal-derived products, the demand for vegan cosmetics, has increased, according to ReportLinker.

However, the stringent guidelines for obtaining vegan certification, and

challenges in formulating cosmetics with natural ingredients, may hamper growth.

// The Global Wellness Institute has launched a Yoga Theraphy Initiative to clarify the difference between yoga as it is understood in modern society and the application of yoga therapy as a sophisticated healing and wellness modality that can help restore health for the lifestyle-related conditions of our modern age.

// Spas and salons without an online or app-based booking function could lose out on as much as 46% of business, found research

by Phorest Salon Software.

// The BBC reports that the InterContinental Hotels Group (IHG), owner of Holiday Inn and Crowne Plaza hotels, has made the environmentally-motivated decision to remove miniature toiletries in small plastic bottles from all its 843,000 rooms by 2021.

online @ probeauty.co.za

A floating hotel and spa will open in Sweden next year, offering wellness tourists a new kind of travel experience.

Georgia Seago of Professional Beauty UK writes: “Arctic Bath Hotel and Spa in Swedish Lapland has been designed to change its positioning depending on the seasons – in winter, the building will freeze into the ice of the Lule River, while it will float on top of the water during the summer months.

“The circular building complex will house a one-treatment room spa with four saunas, an outside cold bath, – a natural plunge pool hollowed into the middle of the open centre of the structure – hot bath and outdoor and indoor showers.”

Massages and bespoke crystal healing sessions will feature on the treatment menu.

Sparkle takes on first facial product Known in South Africa for many years as the official distributor for professional nail brands Gelish, Morgan Taylor, ProHesion and IBX, Sparkle Cosmetics recently took on Glov, a skincare tool that replaces eye make-up remover, face make-up remover, toner, cleaner and cotton pads.

Says Debbie Kayle, CEO of Sparkle Cosmetics: ‘We found Glov whilst traveling overseas at an international trade fair and loved it from the moment we saw it. It is a unique brand in the sense that it is the original microfibre cloth that removes all make-up and is a revolutionary skincare product. Glov is also the only brand that offers a different microbe product for different skin types in the Glov Expert Skin line, as well as other product lines in the range.”

Kayle notes that Glov is manufactured in, and imported from, Poland.

Used with water only, Glov is dermatologically tested, hypoallergenic and eliminates toxins from the skincare process entirely, making it safe and gentle for all skin types.

News

12

La-Vita-è-Bella appointed Beauté Pacifique’s first Cape flagship Plettenberg Bay salon, La-Vitaè-Bella, has become the first flagship establishment in the Cape for Danish medical skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique.

Says Wayne La Grange of Blue Sky International, the Beauté Pacifique Africa distributor: “La-Vita-è-Bella is an owner-run aesthetic clinic specialising in advanced anti-ageing treatments.

We chose this establishment as our first Cape flagship because of the quality of high tech treatments that owner, Susan Koen, offers and also because of the beautiful location. The salon is situated on the Goose Valley Golf Estate.

“Susan is a qualified skin professional, with a client base that has been returning to her for many years. She has stood the test of time and we are honoured to have her as a partner.”

Koen notes that she started using Beauté Pacifique four years ago. “This brand gives remarkable results. It is an anti-ageing product range of note, plus more.

You only have to use the product yourself to experience the results.

“I’m currently in the process of adding a laser machine to my business that addresses conditions like pigmentation, scars, dialated capillaries and skin tightening. This is a growing demand in the market as people have become more aware

of having healthier skin.”

Koen has an arrangement with Blue Sky to have clients’ skin scanned with Beauté Pacifique’s 4th generation ultrasound device, the DermaScan, which shows the deeper layers of the skin.

New GM for Matsimela Nadia Pillay has been appointed general manager at Matsimela Home Spa. Pillay started her career working in the beauty departments of major retail stores while studying full time. After graduating in 2006 at the Durban University of Technology with a Diploma in Somatology, she went on to work on the world’s largest cruise ship for Steiner Transocean. She has

16 years of experience in the health and beauty industry, make-up artistry and management.

“Joining Matsimela has given me the opportunity to use my experience and knowledge to help others and it has also re-ignited my interest in product development. Empowering women and helping them to find their confidence and develop their skills has always been a passion that I can continue with at Matsimela.”

‘Be a Browista’ launches RefectoCil, a market leader for eyebrow and eyelash tints, is introducing the ‘Be a Browista’ programme, which consists of National Masterclass training workshops to educate therapists on brow and lash styling. online @ probeauty.co.za

Says Pieter Vermeer of RefectoCil South Africa: “Upon completion of the programme, all participants will be presented with an Academy book and the RefectoCil Browista Certificate, as well as promotional and marketing

material to display in their salons.

“The ‘Be a Browista’ programme focuses on strong women, themes of individuality and diversity, and promotes individual eyelash and eyebrow styles to complete every woman’s look.”

News

14

Dermalogica SA turns 25 To commemorate its 25th anniversary, Dermalogica South Africa is hosting various birthday events across the country with stockists, to invite consumers to experience Face Mapping and new product innovations.

Says recently appointed CEO of Dermalogica South Africa, Teresa Mordoh: “As we celebrate our 25th birthday in this country, we acknowledge the exceptional foresight that Dermalogica founder, Jane Wurwand had, to create skin product formulations that were developed with integrity to have unsurpassed efficacy and safety. Her relentless commitment to quality demanded that all products were ‘clean from conception’ in 1985, way before clean was just another trend.”

Origins The Dermalogica brand was first brought into South Africa in 1994

by Lee Hardie (now O’brien) and her late husband, Andy Hardie.

Cherie Ten Hope (then Bragge), a trained skincare therapist, joined the company the following year and helped build the brand over the decades. She was made a partner when CAVI Brands bought the business from Lee Hardie and was promoted from GM to CEO in 2007.

Says Ten Hope: “Dermalogica SA came about when Lee, a trained skincare therapist with her own salon, noticed an advert in the Derma Scope magazine for a ‘new’ brand called Dermalogica.

She was struck by their tag line

online @ probeauty.co.za

– ‘It simply works’ – and wrote to Dermalogica Inc., eventually meeting them in London.

“Lee believed Dermalogica had the ideal philosophy about skin health and a unique no nonsense approach that was free from fads or false claims. The brand’s full ingredient listings and resultsfocused formulations, free of irritants like colour, fragrance, mineral oil etc, were appealing, given there were no products with that type of approach then.

In addition, Dermalogica has recyclable packaging and was animal friendly since inception.

The formulations were cutting edge even then and at the heart of the business was education.

That remains the case today and has proven to be a big part of the brand’s global success over the years.”

Evolving market Ten Hope notes that the beauty market in South Africa has certainly evolved over the past 25 years. “In those days the industry did not enjoy much credibility, nor were beauticians taken very seriously. Products of the time were largely focused on pampering and sensorial treatments vs clinical results and dramatically changing the skin, without all the frills and fuss of pretty packaging. Dermalogica’s branding was white, grey and simple, with full ingredient listings for retail and professional. The research behind the product was done by the International Dermal

Institute, which made skin safety, stability and reliability a top priority.

“Today the demand for serious products that work has become much more mainstream. The awareness around what goes into products, whether they are credible and environmentally friendly and safe are all more top of mind for consumers. Our focus on education has without doubt raised the bar for the industry. As Jane Wurwand always says: ‘We are not a skincare product with education, we are an education company with a skin product’.

“The business aspect of the beauty industry has also changed and we have always aimed to position ourselves as a business partner, not just a product company. Part of our founding mission has been to empower women and to help them be financially independent and more business oriented,” concludes Ten Hope.

15 Business Business Trends

Insider

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled beauty salons and spas in South Africa to track business in June 2019.

Insider Spa

Spa business in South Africa thrived in June 2019, with the majority of spas reporting an increase in treatment business, as compared to the same time as last year. Some hotel spas noted their ‘Winter Spa Specials’ did well, and the fact that school holidays fell in June this year (rather than in July as in 2018) meant hotels were full, which positively impacted on spa business. One Cape hotel spa noted it makes a conscious effort in making sure its hotel guests knew about the spa and offered interesting packages and specials In June with great value for money. Upsells also proved successful. Another spa noted that warmer than usual winter weather also played a part in attracting clients.

Retail sales were also up for most of you. Reasons cited were: a constant drive to upsell and retail at every opportunity; having a better retail offering than before; and an increase in average guest spend.

We asked you if you were planning any specials to herald the coming of Spring, and the majority were planning to offer specials on massages and facials. Some of you were also planning slimming treatment specials that involve detox wraps.

In addition, we asked you what the most important thing is that you include on a job description other than salary and responsibilities.

Some of you said career growth opportunities, while others said that their job descriptions are very specific.

Insider Salon

While the holidays falling in June in 2019 proved beneficial for hotel spas, the reverse was true for South African salons, with the majority reporting a drop in treatment business during that month, as most of their regular clients had gone on holiday. Other reasons cited for the poor business were the same as has been the case for over a year – the poor economy and political uncertainty. Retail business also fared poorly, with salons reporting that with less clients coming in to the salon in June, there were less people buying products.

Most of you are planning to offer ‘Spring Specials’ in terms of slimming treatments and hair removal.

As to what the most important thing is that you include on a job description other than salary and responsibilities, most of you said details on the bonus or commission structure. PB

The month in numbers

SALON 49

SPA 68 AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

%

%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JUNE 2019 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2018?

71% BETTER

8% 21% SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JUNE 2019 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2018?

65% BETTER

5% SAME

30% WORSE

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JUNE 2019 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2018?

29% 14% 57% BETTER

SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JUNE 2019 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2018?

13% 22 65% %

BETTER

WORSE

SAME

online @ probeauty.co.za

50 Years Professional.

Always have been. Always will be.

Can your brand state the same?

For more information contact Twincare International 011 305 1600 | info@twincare.co.za

Business Tips

18

ask

the EXPERTS

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

Does inflammation impact on the ageing of your skin?

The process through which ageing happens is inflammation. Chronic, low-grade inflammation is recognised as a major contributor to the ageing process of the skin.

This phenomenon is called ‘inflammageing’ and it plays a role in the initiation and progress of skin ageing. UV radiation induces oxidative stress in epidermal cells, resulting in damaged cells with oxidised lipids. Repeated UV radiation over-activates the immune system, causing damage to the dermis-epidermis junction.

Overburdened macrophages release pro-inflammatory cytokines and ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species), the former causing chronic inflammation and long-term damage to the dermis, whilst the latter triggers oxidative stress-induced damage to the dermal extracellular matrix.

The ageing process leaves the skin feeling rough (from a thickened layer of stratum corneum), sensitive to the environment (due to the thinning of the living epidermal cell layer) and with an uneven tone, often described as sallowness. The breakdown in collagen and elastin

online @ probeauty.co.za

causes sagging, while lines and wrinkles start to appear in areas of increased skin activity, for example around the mouth and eyes.

Functional disability shows up as dryness and uneven pigmentation.

Liver spots appear due to a malfunction in the pigment-forming cells (the melanocytes). Skin with inflammageing is also more likely to develop acne, seborrheic skin conditions and rosacea.

It is important to distinguish between healthy ageing and accelerated ageing. Genes play a key role in successful ageing. However, inflammatory stimuli are inescapable, although certain environmental and lifestyle factors may be avoidable.

Lifestyle factors Cigarette smoke is a well-known cause of ageing, disease and death.

Similarly, air pollution is a major environmental factor contributing to inflammation, illness, and mortality.

Taking part in regular physical activity and sticking to a healthy diet increases your likelihood of successful ageing and decreases your risk for many associated diseases. Diet is strongly linked to levels of inflammation and disease

risk. The Mediterranean diet is associated with lower levels of inflammation. Caloric restriction has been successful in extending the average and maximum lifespans in several species.

This low-grade inflammation that is almost always present in the skin not only ages the skin at an accelerated rate, but is also responsible for diseases like rosacea, acne, pigmentation disorders and cancer. By controlling inflammation, we can control ageing in the skin.

It is now known that hypochlorous solution (HOCl) suppresses and reverses inflammation in the skin. This is due to the block effect that HOCl has on the protein messengers that activate the gene that is responsible for inflammation, ageing and disease.

Dr Hennie Roos in the chief scientist at Thoclor Labs and has for the past 10 years been developing methods to manufacture the body’s innate immune molecule, called Hypochlorous acid (HOCl) labs@thoclor.com

What exactly is micellar water and how does it benefit the skin?

Long popular in France, this skincare product that looks and feels just like regular water is becoming increasingly in demand in the local skincare market. Micellar water is not your regular H2O, but rather is made up of tiny particles called micelles, which are oil-loving molecules suspended in a solution of soft water. These micelles act like magnets to attract sebum, pollution, oil and make-up, thereby gently drawing out impurities from the skin without drying it out.

Micellar waters contain purified water, hydrating ingredients and low concentrations of extremely mild surfactants. Because they

Due to the fact that micellar waters are light formulations and gentle on the skin, there is no need to rinse them off and because of this, the moisturising ingredients stay behind to be absorbed, leaving the skin hydrated.

Micellar waters benefit the skin in many ways and are exceptionally universal, especially in today’s fast paced society.

These products save time by being multi-taskers; they are travel friendly, make the skin glow and are easy to use. PB contain no alcohol, there is zero chance of skin irritation, thus making it a suitable cleansing product for all skin types, especially sensitive and acne-prone skins.

Lisa Charlton is head of department of Skincare Education at Twincare International and national education manager for Matis.

Lisa@twincare.co.za

For your beauty, hair and spa business AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

OF THE AT THE HEART AL BEAUTY BUSINESS PROFESSION

AT THE HEART PROFESSION OF THE AL BEAUTY BUSINESS

incorporating incorporating incorporating

HT DELIG DEVICE AND RF IN LASERS, IPLS INVESTING

ES RED LIN BLUR S SKINCARE MAKE-UP MEET WHEN

GENTLEMEN PREFER G GROOMEIN MARKET G MAL

THE GROWIN

za

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Mar/Apr 2019

FEEL LIKE A PEEL? CHEMICAL PEELING MODALITIES

SPOT ON

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TREATING ACNE

CALMING EFFECT

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LOCAL FLAV OUR SOUTH AFR

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DESTRESSING MIND AND BODY

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usse e to fe to u pe Sa e f ty e a p S n any y t on anykin!! o of skin of s

For more information please visit the THOCLOR website: For more information please visit the THOCLOR website: https://thoclor.com/our-products/ https://thoclor.com/our-products/ Or contact Marlene Mouton, Aesthetic Sales Representative, Or contact Marlene Mouton, Aesthetic Sales Representative, Cell: 082 828 1913, marlene@rzmedical.co.za Cell: 082 828 1913, marlene@rzmedical.co.za

Business Tips

19

Bye, Bye Mascara

For Lashes that Defy Gravity!

Say goodbye to the traditional lash perm with The Eyelash Emporium’s new and improved Gravity Defying Lashes.

The signature 4 step GDL Lash Lift Treatment, lifts and extends your own natural lashes to new levels, straightening them at the root for an instant high-impact look Low in maintenance & lasts for up to 8 weeks A jaw-dropping look on even the shortest lashes Two in one treatment that lifts and defines the lashes Transforming make-up routines with no need for mascara A natural lash enhancement without applying lash extensions

Thicker, Fuller, more Defined, Longer Looking Lashes!

Email: sonette@eyelashemporium.co.za Facebook: The Eyelash Emporium SA Web:

Tel: 076 585 4191 www.eyelashemporium.co.za

An

eye-opening experience MELANIE CLOETE opts for the GDL (Gravity Defying Lashes) treatment to bring enhanced definition to her eyes.

T

he Eyelash Emporium’s Sonette van Rensburg explained that unlike a traditional lash perm which curls the lashes, the signature 4-step GDL Lash Lift, lifts and extends lashes to new levels, straightening them at the root for an instant highimpact look.

“The result is thicker, fuller, longer and more defined lashes that last for up to eight weeks, without the need for mascara,” she said. “This treatment is low in maintenance and ideal for clients who don’t have the time to maintain eyelash extensions, but who want longer, fuller looking lashes.”

Two processes are involved with GDL: Lifting (to provide, fullness, length and shape) and Tinting (to create depth of colour and definition).

Van Rensburg conducted a patch test on my arm 48 hours prior to treatment, to identify any potential sensitivity or allergies to the products. Luckily there were none.

She continued: “It’s very important that a client record card be completed prior to treatment, so as to determine whether there are any contra-indications. During consultation the therapist can assess the condition, health and length of the client’s natural lashes to select the correct shield size and timing.”

BEFORE

AFTER To prepare for the treatment, van Rensburg used Fade Out eye make-up remover pads and further cleansed the lashes with Off Camera Lash Cleansing Foam and a Stage Sweeper Cleansing Brush. She explained that preparation is everything to ensure treatment efficacy.

She then placed lint-free On Set Soothing pads under the eyes, on top of the lower lashes, making sure not to trap any top lashes under the eye pad and applied Preview Pre-Treatment Primer.

My lashes were adhered to a silicon shield chosen according to my natural eye shape and lash length. “The smaller the shield, the greater and more dramatic the lift,” noted van Rensburg. “A medium shield will achieve a more classic C Curl look, while the large shield will create a softer curl, and more subtle look, opening up the

eye. Most clients prefer a natural look, where lashes are lifted at a 90-degree angle onto the shield.”

A defining solution was applied to the base of the lashes to relax the hair, removing its natural shape. Next van Rensburg applied setting solution to the base of the lashes to hold and set the new shape in place. She then tinted my lashes.

To end off, she applied a nourishing solution to the lashes to nourish and protect them.

Van Rensburg advised me that the first 24 hours are the most important and to keep my lashes dry, avoid hot steam, mechanical or heated lash curlers and to use only the recommended Eyelash Emporium aftercare products.

I absolutely loved this treatment as the lifted lashes really enhanced my eyes. PB The Eyelash Emporium: 076 585 4191 online @ probeauty.co.za

Treatment Review – Gravity Defying Lash Lift

21

Case Study

22

A very

‘Clear’ strategy In a tough economic climate, Crystal Clear Aesthetic Skincare Clinic in Parkwood, Johannesburg, continues to thrive, after 12 years of existence.

JOANNA STERKOWICZ speaks to owner MARISHA PAWLAK about the reasons for the clinic’s enduring presence in the market.

S

peak to most salon owners and they will reveal that while they dream of achieving 30% of total turnover from retail sales, they rarely ever get close to that figure.

Crystal Clear Aesthetic Skincare Clinic owner and co-founder, Marisha Pawlak, will tell you otherwise.

“We regularly exceed well over 30% and often reach 60%,” she says. “This is usually in the winter months as, while treatments are definitely down during this time of year, customers do keep coming back to purchase their skincare products.

“I’m a firm believe that in order for a salon to be healthy businesswise, retail sales should exceed treatment sales.”

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Numbers game

I’m a firm believe that in order for a salon to be healthy business-wise, retail sales should exceed treatment sales.

Pawlak, who originally hails from the city of Poznan in Poland, should know what she’s talking about, considering that she has a degree in economics.

“This has proved invaluable in the running of my business as I can tell on any given day, what the numbers are. In terms of retail, I always make sure I have what my customers are likely to want so I never run out of stock.”

As someone who had studied economics, Pawlak assumed she would be counting numbers for ever. “I started off in the accounting department at Edgars but then progressed to store manager and then visual area manager, opening stores.

“One day in 2007, a friend of mine – a Polish beauty therapist

– wanted to open a beauty salon and asked me to partner in the business. A spot in The Parks Shopping Centre became available and I really liked the space. At that time I was questioning myself about what to do with my career, so I decided to become a quiet partner at Crystal Clear, just doing the numbers.

“After about two years, my friend withdrew from the business so I took over the company. It was tough at the beginning as I had to learn everything about the brands and products. A wonderful therapist called Faaizah Abram worked with me for seven years, so with her help the clinic became a success.”

Interestingly, Pawlak took the decision not to offer nail services, always considered a sure-fire revenue generator.

“I thought that offering nails would make the salon too busy and noisy and I wanted to retain exclusivity for my customers. After all, our motto is: ‘It’s all about you – it’s all about skincare’,” she explains.

Chic design A striking feature of the clinic is its elegant and economical design. Tucked away in a corner on the lower floor of The Parks Shopping Centre, Crystal Clear gives the impression from the outside of being a small salon. Yet it houses five treatment rooms, a shower, a kitchen and a spacious waiting area.

“I do believe the clinic has a clever design, with our curved corridor and window, and it’s entirely due to my brother who is an architect. He came out from Poland to do the design,” Pawlak comments.

She takes pride in the music that plays in the salon, which is not the typical spa-type music, but rather a mix of jazz and female artists singing the blues.

Case Study

23

On offer Crystal Clear offers facial treatments, body treatments, laser hair removal and skin rejuvenation.

“Everything that I have created at Crystal Clear has been about the customer,” continues Pawlak. “This strategy has paid off as we have many long term clients. Being of a mature age myself, I am always looking for something that will make a difference to my skin. Our customers are mainly corporate business women so I have to give them something genuine in terms of results-driven treatments. Some of them don’t have much time, so I tailor 15-minute treatments for them. We also have a few corporate clients and we design packages especially for them.”

She employs two full-time therapists and one part-time therapist and remains very involved in the business herself.

“I’m receptionist, I drop off products for clients and prepare samples for them if they are going away. It’s clear that customers like the owner to be involved the salon and to be present. However, I wouldn’t be successful without my staff. I’m very lucky that beauty schools in South Africa are so good.”

In terms of brands, Crystal Clear offers Guinot, Black Pearl, Filorga, Image Skincare, Essel, Charlotte Rhys, Thalgo Body, Pro Collagen Liquid Collagen, GLOV and Mama Mio. In conclusion, Pawlak says: “Crystal Clear is a nice business for a mature woman – I can spoil my customers and sometimes, I also spoil myself also. I’m happy and honoured that my customers trust me.” PB

online @ probeauty.co.za

Wellness

24

Talking to...

Anne Dimon JOANNA STERKOWICZ speaks to Anne Dimon, president and CEO of the Colorado-based Wellness Tourism Association (WTA), about the growth of wellness travel globally and how it impacts the spa sector.

How does the WTA define the term ‘wellness’?

Because the term ‘wellness’ is so personal and means different things to different people, the WTA board of directors made a conscious decision to limit our definitions to purely industry terms, such as ‘wellness tourism’, ‘wellness travel’, ‘wellness retreats’ and others. In terms of defining the term ‘wellness tourism’, the WTA Glossary of Industry Definitions – the first glossary for the wellness tourism industry – looks at wellness tourism as: ‘A specific division of the global tourism industry that is defined by the common goal of marketing natural assets and activities primarily focused on serving the wellness-minded consumer and those who want to be.’

Is there a danger that consumers could confuse wellness tourism with medical tourism?

Yes. And many – consumers as well as others – do confuse the two. The WTA looks at wellness tourism as being more ‘proactive’ with one’s own health and wellbeing and medical tourism being more ‘reactive’; as in treating a medical

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companies that meet the

Wellness tourism is a specific division of the global tourism industry that is defined by the common goal of marketing natural assets and activities primarily focused on serving the wellness-minded consumer and those who want to be. condition or providing procedures that are more ‘invasive’, such as surgery.

We also believe that there is a growing area where the two overlap, and that overlap occurs when and where the medical industry offers scientificallysupported proactive testing that can help identify medical issues prior to symptoms being present, plus advise the client on how to possibly reverse the condition before it worsens.

The WTA has recently included a Medical Wellness category of membership to welcome

following criteria: A company with the primary business of medical (the care of patients, and services that respond to specific medical conditions or issues) will be considered for membership if they also offer multi-day retreats/ programmes and/ or packages that are deemed to be more preventative than reactive. For instance, retreats/ programmes for sleep, stress management, medical testing for the early detection and prevention or certain medical conditions, and others.

When did the current wellness travel trend actually start?

That is really difficult to pinpoint, but I do know that when I launched TravelToWellness.com in 2004 as the first editoriallydriven online magazine and resource for the wellnessminded traveler, the term ‘wellness travel’ was rarely, if ever, used. I had just finished reading The Wellness Revolution

by Paul Zane Pilzer (published in 2002) and ‘wellness travel’ was not mentioned. When I launched

TravelToWellness.com, a columnist in one of Canada’s leading daily newspapers actually chided me for using the word ‘wellness’ in the name.

I believe wellness travel as we know it today began in the spa. I have articles dating back to 2004 to show spas moving into the realm of wellness when the buzz words were ‘detox’ and ‘stress management’.

At that time, as a journalist I had been covering the spa industry for a number of publications (including the Toronto Star where I was writing a column in the Travel Section called the Wellness File) since the late 1900s, and was seeing signs of the spa industry moving more into the ‘wellness’ space. On an international level, and also in 2004, I visited and wrote about Chiva Som in Thailand and discovered one of the first true wellness retreats, although it wasn’t called that back in 2004.

In 2005 ‘wellness and entitlement’ were behind the changing face of spas, and I used the term ‘wellness destination’ for the first time in an article about Arizona which ran in the Vancouver Sun. That same year I wrote about the Optimum Health Weekend Program at Grail Springs, Ontario for a Journeys for Body, Mind & Soul column in another Canadian newspaper, The Chronicle Herald.

While spas and the concept of wellness began to fully emerge around 2004 and 2005, the Global Wellness Institute (GWI) agrees with me that the terms and concepts around ‘wellness tourism’ really started taking off in 2008.

Then in 2010, GWI research benchmarked wellness tourism as a $106 billion global industry. They predict that by 2022, global wellness tourism will near the $1 trillion mark.

As they moved from ‘pampering’ to ‘prevention’, spas led the charge into wellness travel and ultimately wellness tourism. Spas, spa treatments and the total spa experience will continue to be regarded under the umbrella of wellness.

How did the WTA come about?

The WTA was officially launched in January of 2018 and in less than two years has grown to close to 90 members and partners in 15 countries. As a 20-plus year travel writer/ industry journalist plus founder/ editor of Travel To Wellness, I began to accumulate notes for an industry association back in 2013. In those days I was calling it the IWTA (International Wellness Travel Association), but I got diverted and put it on the backburner. It wasn’t until early 2017, following an interview for a trade magazine with Andrew Gibson (then VP of Wellbeing for Accor Hotel), that I brought the WTA concept forward. Andrew agreed with me that it was a good idea, and brought Accor in as a co-founder. He then reached out to Tom Klein, president of >

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Wellness

25

Wellness

26

We want the WTA (Wellness Tourism Association) logo to be a symbol for consumers to be able to identify industry stakeholders who have met basic criteria.

Canyon Ranch, and the wellness resort brand become a cofounder. The three of us moved forward and then the real work of launching an association began, making it my very full-time job.

The Art of Living Retreat Center in North Carolina and the Monaco Government Tourist Office both came in as Founding Members.

Madeleine Marentette of Grail Springs in Ontario, Canada, joined as a Board Member, Unicomm become a Founding Partner and we were well on our way.

What is the WTA’s mission?

To shape and support the sustainable future of wellness tourism for the global good.

Do you think the term ‘wellness’ runs the risk of being overexposed, given that it seems to be popping up in all sorts of marketing?

Yes. ‘Wellness washing’ is a term being used to identify the utilisation of the term ‘wellness’ strictly for marketing purposes online @ probeauty.co.za

with no substance to back it up. That is one of the reasons we have set criteria for industry stakeholders to become members of the WTA. We want the WTA logo to be a symbol for consumers to be able to identify industry stakeholders who have met basic criteria.

GWI maintains that every destination has something unique to offer wellness travelers, linked with its local culture, natural assets, foods, etc.

Do you agree?

Only to a point. While every destination may have something to offer wellness travelers, this does not make them ‘wellness destinations’. For instance, just because Las Vegas has the highest concentration of luxury spas on the planet, and offers numerous restaurants serving healthy cuisine, it would not qualify to market itself – according to WTA’s newlyintroduced guidelines – as a wellness destination. Nor would any other major city, due to

the noise, the congestion and, in many case, the lack of easy access to natural assets (i.e. mountains, rivers, hot springs etc.). Nature is a very important aspect of wellness tourism. An exception is Monaco, which is building its wellness reputation on thermal baths that date back to the early 1800s. They also have green practices and protocols in places, a range of restaurants offering healthy options, and a wide variety of health and fitness practitioners.

How can spas tap into the wellness tourism trend?

As they moved from ‘pampering’ to ‘prevention’, spas led the charge into wellness travel and ultimately wellness tourism. Spas, spa treatments and the total spa experience will continue to be regarded under the umbrella of wellness. But spas themselves are not mandatory for a complete wellness travel experience. To tap into the trend, I’d suggest that hotel spas, resort spas and game safari spas first sit down with their hotel/ resort

Wellness

27 management team and take a look at what other aspects of their property can be easily and inexpensively rolled in under the wellness umbrella. Can the food & beverage department work to introduce healthier options on menus?

Do they cater to wide and various food preferences that clients demand today (e.g. vegan, vegetarian, gluten free etc.)? Are they willing to introduce special healthy-focused menus in one or more of their outlets? Does the property have onsite fitness instructors, or yoga practitioners that might lead classes as part of a multi-day package? If not in-house then perhaps in partnership with local companies?

Collaborating with local tour operators might give guests access to walking, hiking and cycling tours.

The WTA polled its members to find out the top wellness travel trends and narrowed it down to five growth areas. Please elaborate.

We polled members in early 2018, which revealed these five top growth areas: Going Solo: The Going Solo trend supports the results of the WTA’s recent Wellness Vacation survey in which close to 50% of respondents reported a preference for solo travel, or solo travel to be with the like-minded.

Rise in Newcomers: Over the year 2018, many of our members reported that 50% and more of their guests were first-timers and, in some cases, had never even been to a wellness resort or wellness retreat.

Greater Flexibility with Length of Stays: Members are seeing demand for a wider range of durations for retreats and programmes.

Mental Health Matters: Consumers are looking to take a break from their busy, stressful lives and give their minds a ‘time out’ (i.e. a break to reconnect with self). It is the programing around ‘mindfulness’ that often ends up being the most popular part of a retreat.

Demand for Specific Solutions: Consumers are becoming more aware of the value associated with a true Wellness Vacation that is planned with a specific goal. They seek solutions to such issues as stress and stress-related symptoms, sleep problems, achieving a healthy weight, and developing a more balanced life.

In conclusion, I would emphasise that wellness tourism is not a trend, nor is it an industry ‘niche’. Rather, it is a rapidly growing sector of the tourism industry that encompasses all demographics of travelers. It is fueled by many things, mostly our ever-stressful daily lives, and the inherently human desire to seek health, happiness and longevity. PB online @ probeauty.co.za

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Spa Focus

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Amani opens flagship spa in Houghton South African Spa & Wellness Group, Amani, recently opened its flagship property, at The Houghton Hotel in Johannesburg. JOANNA STERKOWICZ was invited to tour this luxurious and expansive facility.

F

rom the moment you approach the Houghton Hotel in Johannesburg’s upmarket northern suburbs, it’s obvious why this recently constructed property has been dubbed, ‘Luxury Living’.

Adjacent to the long established Houghton Golf Course, the Houghton Hotel also includes residential apartments, the FitBar Gym and Amani Spa @ The Houghton.

Officially launched in May this year, the spa radiates serenity, elegance and

Spa at a glance Operator: Amani Spa & Wellness Size: 730 square metres (excluding exterior area) Facilities: 8 spa treatments suites; Couple’s Suite (with private Jacuzzi, wooden deck and outdoor shower); Grand Rasul; indoor and outdoor relaxation areas and heated pools; hair salon; nail salon Number of spa therapists: 14 Brands: Babor; Esse; VitaJuwel; Lilian Terry; Motherkind; Kinetic Nails; Elim; Amani Body Care Range

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spaciousness, with its roomy reception area and wide, ramped corridor lined with strategically placed retail items.

“I would describe the style of the spa as very unique and modern,” said Regional Operations Manager for Gauteng, Natalie Clayton. “We’ve gone all out to be consistent with the Houghton Hotel in terms of colour and design.

“In Arabic the word ‘amani’ means hope and aspire, while in Swahili, it means peace. The idea is to imbue our guests with a sense of inner peace when they come to the spa.”

Clayton referred to Amani Spa @ The Houghton as ‘huge’, not surprising considering it has eight spa treatment suites (each with its own bathroom); a VIP Couple’s Suite that includes a private Jacuzzi, wooden deck and outdoor shower; a Grand Rasul; indoor heated pool; indoor relaxation area; and outdoor relaxation area with Zen natural cool and heated Vitality Pool.

“In addition, we have a Nail Beautique staffed with two specialist nail technicians who do enhancements, as well as manicures & pedicures, and the Hair & Barbering Salon by BLO™. It made absolute sense to have a hair salon within the spa, as not only is having a wash & blow dry the perfect way to end any spa treatment, but there are all the hotel guests’ hair needs to cater for,” explains Clayton.

29 Spa Focus

The spa employs 21 staff members, comprising therapists, spa attendants and front desk.

Strategic alignment When asked why Amani chose to open a spa at the Houghton Hotel, Clayton responded: “I think it goes without saying that a location like the Houghton Hotel is perfect for an Amani flagship spa in Johannesburg. Having said that, the Houghton Hotel was seeking the prestige of a spa and wellness brand that is in keeping with the hotel’s overall luxury lifestyle ethos, and we were honoured when they approached us.”

In terms of what sort of criteria influences Amani when deciding to align with particular properties, Clayton points out that the Amani brand is synonymous with innovation, African luxury and authenticity, impeccable service and attention to detail.

“Therefore, our values, and those of any potential partners, would need to be closely aligned.

We seek partners whose passion it is to offer utterly personalised and bespoke hospitality experiences, where going to the spa is seen as a lifestyle rather than a luxury,” she says.

Wellness As a group, Amani is focusing a lot of its energy into corporate wellness and wellness in general, and promotes the concept of holistic health. To this end, Amani has introduced crystal bowl sound therapy, which helps to balance the chakra system and re-energise the auric field.

It has also introduced Flowerscape, a therapeutic flower healing modality practiced by Jill Manson. Further, Amani has incorporated into its retail offering a product called VitaJuwel, which energises the power of water with crystals.

Clayton notes that Amani Spa @ The Houghton was very active on Global Wellness Day, which

took place on 12 June. “We hosted celebrities, bloggers and media and partnered with the adjacent FitBar Gym for a yoga class. Guests also enjoyed crystal sound therapy and a talk by Discovery Vitality CEO, Craig Nozzle, as well as a spa treatment.”

My own of Amani Spa @ The Houghton ended with a real treat – a 60-minute Swedish massage performed by somatologist, Olga Ramohamyaka, who used Amani’s in-house range of massage oils, specifically the Coconut Balm. This was a wonderfully relaxing experience, topped off with a wash & blow dry at the hair salon. PB

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Gravity Black Mud Mask Using one of the most advanced, unique and innovative techniques, Black Pearl has created for you the Gravity Black Mud Mask inspired by the force of gravity. The mask directly infuses the skin with active ingredients including vitamins, pure oils and plant extracts vital to healthy appearance and even tone. These active ingredients accelerate cellular dynamics and effectively exfoliate dead cells. The mask puriďŹ es and cleanses the skin without drying and prepares it for maximum absorption of moisture and nourishment. It gives the skin a clear, radiant and even tone, a ďŹ rm and supple look and a silky smooth texture.

w w w. w e a r e b l a c k p e a r l . c o m | f a c e b o o k . c o m / w e a r e b l a c k p e a r l

Treatment Review

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A touch of

Class OBEY DUBE is invited to try the brand new Black Pearl Lux Lift Collagen Treatment.

M

y treatment was performed by Faaizah Abram of Black Pearl South Africa at Crystal Clear Aesthetic Skincare Clinic in Parkwood, Johannesburg.

“The Black Pearl Lux Lift Collagen Treatment was devised

by Dr Michelle Roberts and myself in response to a request from the Four Seasons Spa in Florence, which was extending its menu and wanting more Black Pearl treatments. In particular, they wanted an affordable Black Pearl facial – as compared to the 24k Gold Treatment – for a younger skin that would still be hydrating and anti-ageing,” explained Abram.

Following the Black Pearl Welcome Ritual, which includes deep breathing and a pressure point massage, Abram cleansed my face and neck with the Black Pearl 24k Gold Cleanser, designed to stimulate cell turnover and boost collagen regeneration.

“This cleanser has 24k gold, sourced from Germany, in its formulation and is very nourshing, moisturising and hydrating. I will now apply the 24k Gold Facial Toner, which contains witch hazel and cantella asiatica to absorb any excess oil,” said Abram.

She then moved into the exfoliation phase of the treatment by applying the Thermal Mask.

The mask contains zeolite that targets the effects of daily pollution by purifying and detoxifying the skin, and removing dead skin cells. It also has antioxidant properties.

Because my skin was dry, Abram left the mask on for seven minutes (if I’d had sensitive skin, or was prone to breakouts, the mask would only have been left on for five minutes). During this time Abram performed a hand massage using the Black Pearl Luxury Body Cream with its high concentration of AHAs (AlphaHydroxy Acids), avocado oil, jojoba and almond.

Once the Thermal Mask had been removed, Abram applied the Prestige Capsules to boost the skin. These capsules are very high in Omega 3, 6 and 9. She then performed a 10-minute semi-precious stone massage with rose quartz, which felt amazing on my skin.

Following this was the application of Black Pearl’s brand new sheet mask – the Neck & Decolleté Lifting Mask – formulated with apple pectin to help deliver the active ingredients deep into the skin.

“This anti-ageing mask contains 24K gold, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate and soluble collagen.

For your face, I will apply the Pure Collagen Mask with hyaluronic acid and Tahitian Black Pearl. This will plump up the skin and hydrate it as the pearl attracts water into the skin cells,” commented Abram.

She massaged the mask into my face to ensure maximum product penetration. To complete the treatment, Abram applied the Exaltation Eye Serum, as well as a mix of Collagen Serum and Collagen Day Cream. These pure collagen products stimulate collagen regeneration in the dermis and also increase collagen concentration.

I loved every minute of this luxurious treatment and my skin looked hydrated and rejuvenating. PB CONTACT Black Pearl: 082 560 0262 online @ probeauty.co.za

Treatment Business Review Trends

32

All about

collagen Plagued with perennially dry skin and the recent emergence of fine lines, STACEY PLATT opts to try the new DermaFix Collagen Lift Treatment.

I

’ve suffered with dry skin all my life, and now that I’m in my early-30s, I see the formation of fine lines around my eyes and mouth.

I was delighted to hear from DermaFix training manager, Rozlyn Williams, that their new Collagen Lift Facial has been specially designed to make use of collagen-signaling peptides that target the fibroblasts within the skin, encouraging them to produce more collagen and elastin.

Said Williams: “The benefits of this treatment are firmer skin, the softening of fine lines

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and wrinkles with enhanced product penetration. There is no downtime with this facial, which can be used across all skin types and adapted to meet the needs of each individual client.

The body is primarily made up of protein, and amino acids are essential for cellular growth and regeneration. Peptides are strings of amino acids, the building blocks of protein, commonly found in cosmeceutical formulations in their synthetic form. Tetrapeptides and Oligopeptides play an important role in mediating inflammation in anti-ageing formulations. Vital encapsulated delivery systems are essential within the DermaFix corrective anti-ageing skin care protocols.”

To begin, my skin was double cleansed and a skin analysis was done; Williams commented: “Hydration and barrier deficiency are definitely an issue, as evidenced by the slight redness on your cheeks. For your treatment I’m going to focus on collagen induction and barrier reparation for a more hydrated skin.” She then continued with toning and enzymatic exfoliation.

“The next stage of the facial incorporates the use of DermaFix Collagen Conformer worked into the skin with a Microneedling pen, fitted with a needle-free nano cartridge,” continued Williams.

“This lightly disrupts the skin’s surface, encouraging circulation

whilst improving product absorption into the skin.”

While it felt a bit strange, there was no pain or discomfort.

DermaFix Collagen Conformer contains Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, reducing fine lines and wrinkles by recovering thickness and firmness, and Acetyl Tetrapeptide–11, assisting to rejuvenate the epidermis and restore its cohesion and resistance.

Following this step, Williams applied the DermaFix Collagen Film Masque – a sheet masque pre-loaded with serum. This was done in combination with The DermaFix LED Masque on a red light setting. LED light therapy works to increase the skin’s wound healing response due to the promotion of collagen and elastin synthesis, thereby improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in the fight against ageing.

To end off, Williams applied DermaFix DeCeLeRate – a peptide blend moisturiser formulated with Argireline, Matrixyl® 3000 and Matrixyl® Synthé 6®, promoting collagen production with skin re-modelling benefits. The final step was the application of DermaFix DermaShield SPF 50, providing essential protection against UV radiation.

Not only did my skin feel wonderfully hydrated, it also looked radiant and my lines were less visible. PB CONTACT DermaFix: 0861 28 23 23

COLLAGEN

Revitalisation AGE DEFYING

formulations with Smart Peptides for collagen and elastin boosting benefits.

CELL-TO - CELL

communication for cellular repair.

Skin Rejuvenation

34

Hold back

clock the

Despite the rise in demand for aesthetic, device-based skin rejuvenation treatments, topical in-salon anti-ageing facials combined with therapist-prescribed professional home care products continue to be the largest segment in skincare.

T

he global anti-ageing products market size will grow by USD 17.22 billion during 2019-2023, according to market research company, Technavio.

This growth will be driven by consumer demand from the world’s ageing population and the ongoing investment by skincare brands into R&D and product development, focused on the latest innovations in terms of skin rejuvenating ingredients.

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Resurfacing actives Carina Meiring of pHformula believes that the best way to achieve ultimate rejuvenation for an ageing skin is to introduce a unique combination of resurfacing actives at maximum strength.

“These should consist of Alpha Keto Acids, Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Beta Hydroxy Acids, Poly Hydroxy Acids and superior antioxidants,” she says. “In addition, you need the latest active ingredients that

target ageing and all signs associated with it, such as lines and wrinkles, impaired skin barrier, hyperpigmentation, adult acne, chronic redness, rosacea etc.”

Meiring points out that the actual success in rejuvenation is more than just the specific

ingredients. “It is all about the delivery system used to get the acid or active ingredient to the targeted concern, hence the success of the unique trademarked pHformula PHDVC™ delivery system and Powerclay™ formula.

“Niacinamide is a powerful ingredient that exerts multiple effects on the skin. It acts as a potent antioxidant by increasing the reduced forms of the enzyme, NAD(P), and adenosine dinucleotide phosphate, which are important for cell metabolism. This ingredient also assists in the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles by reducing GAGs and increasing dermal collagen and protein production. The increase in protein synthesis has a stimulating effect on ceramide synthesis, speeds up the differentiation of keratinocytes and raises intracellular NAD(p) levels.”

She points out that 4-n-Butylresorcinol is a resorcinol derivative that inhibits both tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1). “The hypopigmenting action of 4-n-butylresorcinol was first reported in 1995, and subsequent in vitro and in vivo studies have documented its hyperpigmenting efficacy.

4-n-butylresorcinol has proven to be the most potent hyperpigmenting agent when compared to kojic acid, hydroquinone, and arbutin.”

Fibroblast cell According to Ursula Volbrecht of DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care, collagen production slows down on average by approximately 1% a year. She continues: “Further decline in collagen production may especially be noticed alongside various lifestyle habits including smoking and UV-radiation exposure. In order to stimulate and thicken collagen, the target for skin rejuvenation is the fibroblast cell. All the

evidence points to the fibroblasts producing collagen as being the key to success with the skincare professional correctly evaluating where the skin damage is for the chosen protocol to be successful. The following components have been shown to be important co-factors of collagen production – key amino acids, vitamin A (retinoids), vitamin C and hyaluronic acid.”

As Volbrecht explains, amino acids are the essential building blocks that make up all cellular proteins and tissues. “As collagen is a protein, collagen synthesis is dependent on having enough amino acids present in the body to carry out this function. Science has come a long way and peptide technology has come into play.

Peptides are composed of amino acids and have the ability to mimic or imitate protein sequences such as those found in collagen and elastin.

DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care makes use of Smart Peptide Technology in DermaFix Collagen Conformer, which is formulated with Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide–11 and Soy Protein.”

DermaFix DeCeLeRate contains Argireline, Matrixyl® 3000 and Matrixyl® Synthé 6®, while MD Prescriptives DNA Protection based on Biofunctional Telomere Science makes it possible to introduce

the enzyme, telomerase, into the healthy human dermal fibroblast cells, providing skin with protection against ageing at a cellular level.

“Studies in the field of vitamin A have since brought about the development of vitamin A Propionate, a vitamin A form that has shown to be more effective than other topical retinols,” continues Volbrecht. “vitamin A Propionate has since become the preferred form of vitamin A used by DermaFix and is found in our MD Prescriptives vitamin A Propionate. We also make use of vitamin C and hyaluronic acid in many of our products as both contribute to healthy skin.”

Flagship product Crème Métamorphique, the flagship product of Danish medical skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique, is a patented vitamin A anti-wrinkle cream positioned as a ‘must have’ daily aid for anybody above the age of 25 years.

Says Wayne La Grange of distributor, Blue Sky International: “Endorsed by members of the Danish Royal Family, Crème Métamorphique provides the skin with two forms of vitamin A to rebuild the collagen fibre structures, and help the skin become reinforced and rejuvenated.

“This scientifically documented rejuvenation treatment works throughout the skin’s deepest layers to reduce wrinkles and repair ageing-induced damage, even on severely sun damaged skin. As it is a highly concentrated formulation, it must always be applied very sparingly, preferably at night.” > online @ probeauty.co.za

Skin Rejuvenation

35

Skin Rejuvenation

36 From the desert Kalahari recommends several products to help treat ageing skin, including the Instant Lifting Serum, an intensive, skin firming serum formulated with botanical extracts of vitamin C, kelp and hydrolysed rice protein. This concentrated serum stimulates collagen and elastin production resulting in a visible lifting and skin tightening effect.

Also from Kalahari, the Anti-Ageing Gel is suitable for all skin conditions, excluding problematic skins.

Formulated with oat kernel extract, hydrolysed rice bran protein and calendula flower, this lightweight treatment gel stimulates collagen and elastin production, improving skin moisture levels and firmness, while visibly reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Ferulic Ceb+ Serum is a concentrated, superoxide serum. This high-potency phytochemical antioxidant boosts the effect of other antioxidants such as vitamins C, E and B. This serum eradicates several different types of free radicals in the skin and dramatically improves texture and appearance.

Kalahari’s Revitalising Booster Gel is rich in peptides and hyaluronic acid. It contains botanical extracts from Kigelia Africana and Kalahari melon seed oil, effectively supporting collagen synthesis and strengthening fibroblasts. This phyto-effective gel will leave

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the skin feeling plump, ultrahydrated and firm.

The MN Pen from Kalahari is an automated-microneedling treatment system that naturally stimulates collagen and elastin through a collagen induction process (CIT).

Focus on anti-ageing To treat the signs of ageing, Environ recommends its Vitamin Step-Up System of serums – Concentrated Retinol Serum 1, 2 and 3 – which have been formulated with high concentrations of vitamin A and designed to help normalise the appearance of skin abnormalities and damage.

This system of serums improves the appearance of uneven skin tone and helps refine skin texture, giving the skin a firmer and smoother appearance. It assists in reducing and improving the appearance of premature ageing and fine lines.

To optimise efficiency, therapists can use any of the Retinol Serums in conjunction with Environ’s Electro-Sonic DF mobile skin device, which will assist to deliver more essential nutrients to where skin needs them most.

Also from Environ, the Focus Care Youth+ Tri Biobotanical Revival Masque is dubbed ‘facelift in a jar’, as it is formulated with a revolutionary combination of three powerful ingredients.

This masque may assist in enhancing the skin’s overall look, feel and resilience.

It helps to improve the appearance of a firmer, rejuvenated skin, giving a more youthful appearance.

Environ’s Tri-Peptide Complex+ Avance Elixir is a multi-function serum that contains Mĕritage, a unique blend of extracts from Chinese roots used in traditional medicine. This ingredient has been shown to be effective in reducing the effects of oxidative stress (UV radiation and pollution) and lightening the appearance of uneven skin tone.

The Avance Elixir also contains a combination of three powerful peptide complexes that may assist in improving the overall structure of the skin.

Doctor’s orders From Italian certified organic brand, Team Dr Joseph, the Intense Repair Well Aging Mask is an intense facial mask for demanding skin, formulated with herbal power ingredients for to boost firmness and vitality.

Active ingredients include Hibiscus Extract to relax the muscles and Adansonia Lifting Complex for its moisturising properties.

In addition, Seti Complex treats against wrinkles and glycation, while Ulva Hydration builds collagen. Other ingredients include Boswelix Complex, Cococaprylate, Chamomile extract, Jojoba oil BIO and Olive oil BIO, among many others.

The Team Dr Joseph Deep Purifying Serum is an intensive facial treatment for blemished skin. This power serum cleanses deeply, supporting the natural skin purifying process, allowing the skin to breathe freely again.

Among the ingredients are Usnea Extract, hyaluronic acid, Aloe Vera BIO, papaya extract and carrot extract.

Skin Rejuvenation

37

Regeneration A maximum-intensity skin regenerating treatment to help reverse the signs of skin ageing, Dermalogica’s Power Rich contains a threephase formula that aids in smoothing away fine lines, increasing elasticity and maintaining moisture balance.

Power Rich helps firm and increase skin resilience with biostimulating botanicals that trigger collagen production with nonirritating exfoliation agents. Peptides and skin-nourishing vitamins help reverse signs of skin ageing. This product is formulated without artificial fragrances and colours.

The Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair is a powerful treatment cream that accelerates skin renewal and reduces the appearance of skin ageing overnight. Active microencapsulated pure retinol helps increase collagen production and cell turnover, while powerful peptides and antioxidant vitamin C help fight signs of ageing, including uneven skin tone and discoloration. > online @ probeauty.co.za

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Skin Rejuvenation

38 Cellular power Advanced Cellular Marine from QMS Medicosmetics is based on a revolutionary technology derived from Sea Fennel Stem Cells, which support the body’s own stem cells, enhance the stimulation of new skin cells, improve its metabolism and boost skin rejuvenation.

Say the experts at QMS Medicosmetics: “Every time you apply Advanced Cellular Marine the life span of your skin’s stem cells will be extended and skin ageing reduced. This product can be used day and night.”

Inspired by the latest in plant stem cell research, the QMS Advanced Cellular Alpine harnesses the power of the Alpine Rose plant to create a rejuvenating cream specifically for the sensitive eye area. Its unique lightweight formulation combines potent ingredients with revolutionary technology to enhance the stimulation of new skin cells, increase skin stem cell vitality and improve the skin’s metabolism.

Valuable ingredient According to Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA Skin Treatments, vitamin C has always been a most valuable active ingredient regarding antiageing benefits. “However, some forms can be irritating, particularly to sensitive skins, or they quickly oxidise and lose their usefulness,” continues Faucitt. “One of the exciting forms of vitamin C is BV-OSC, also known as online @ probeauty.co.za

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, an oil-soluble vitamin C which provides many anti-ageing benefits.”

This oil-soluble vitamin C, BV-OSC, can be found in a brand new product, the RégimA “On Q” Quenching Facial Oil, as well as in all the RégimA day products with sun protection.

The RégimA Collagen Renewal Complex, which contains Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Tall Oil Sterol, Linoleic Acid and Sodium Ascorbate (vitain C) is an effective amplifier of collagen III, the juvenile collagen.

Comments Faucitt: “It selectively increases collagen III production by enhancing the fibroblast activity via modulating cytokine production. The significant increase in procollagen III, accompanied by a pronounced increase of the epidermal layer thickness, results in the reformation of collagen fibres in the dermis, and subsequently, a reduction of wrinkles.”

Described as a ‘Flash Effect Treatment’, RégimA’s Rapid Rejuvo Masque is a unique active complex composed of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid and decanediol – a synthesised bio-mimetic version of the hydroxyl acid naturally present in Royal Jelly. It is a fast-acting multifunctional ‘Super

Rejuvenating Masque’ that swiftly, safely and effectively smooths the skin, leaving it silky soft with a healthier youthful glow.

Growth factors Proteins that regulate cellular growth, proliferation and differentiation under controlled conditions, growth factors promote the formation of collagen and elastin to provide firmness and elasticity. Cells in ageing skin make fewer growth factors than cells in youthful skin.

SKNnight plus from SKNlogic is a treatment cream with growth factor peptide and hyaluronic acid that combats prematurely-ageing skin conditions, while it repairs and protects.

The product reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while improving the texture, tone and colour of the skin. PB

39 Hair News

Crowning GLORY

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front

New generation

Good as gold The Brazilian Gold Argan Oil Keratin Treatment is a revolutionary hair reconstruction and volume reducing treatment that eliminates frizzy hair, leaving it straight, healthy and shiny for up to four months. It comprises three products that can be individually purchased or in a kit – Clarifying Shampoo, Keratin Treatment, and Brazilian Gold Repair Mask.

064 540 6180

The Nouvelle Hair Care Range is being relaunched

by Lighthouse at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show.

Nouvelle is focused on offering stylists a wide variety of hair colours, styling aids and maintenance products for retail to their customers.

Nouvelle includes permanent hair colours, semi-permanent funky colours and colour maintenance.

064 540 6180

A blast of colour Indola #ColorBlaster is a smart range of pigmented conditioners that offers a 360 degree customisation with trending pastel to bold, refresh or neautralisation colours. It contains color-charge complex for vibrant colour results and perfect care and is a simple application for express backwash services.

011 617 2615

Curly no more Inoar’s Afro Vegan range of products is developed specifically with afro and natural curly hair in mind. Shea butter, a powerful moisturiser, soothes and protects and leaves hair supple, while castor oil, which is rich in vitamin E, minerals and has antibacterial properties, nourishes, hydrates, replenishes nutrients and seals the cuticle for smooth shiny hair.

012 346 1721

online @ probeauty.co.za

Hair Removal

40

Smooth times ahead

According to a new report by Grand View Research, Inc., the global laser hair removal market size is anticipated to reach $1.87 billion by 2026. The increasing demand for non-invasive hair removal treatments, as well as the introduction of ultra-technology in laser hair removal, are driving growth in the market.

Here we look at some of the latest devices available.

Depth of variety The decision to invest in hair reduction technology usually hinges on the need to shift from manual services to more advanced options with long-term results.

Says Gary Price of Venus Concept Africa: “Salon and/ or clinic owners may decide they need to upgrade an existing hair removal system, or shift their place in the market if they have not offered hair removal before but clients are now requesting the service.

“The Venus Versa platform offers a depth of variety if your clinic is busy but hair

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removal is not predominant.

This investment will mean you can offer a top-to-toe face and body service with other technologies on the same platform and hair removal services will not ‘cannibalise’ capacity. Applicators with either 3cm 2 or 6 cm 2 lenses for convenience in all treatment areas make this a desirable choice for any business.”

Price notes that another device, the Venus Velocity, is both a powerful and profitable diode laser. A single applicator has interchangeable light guides from 1.7cm 2, 3.5cm 2 and 7cm 2 that are all included in the system.

Hair Removal

41 “If hair removal services are in high demand and your specialist focus, then this dedicated system is the obvious choice,” states Price.

Benefits include real time cooling for exceptional patient comfort and total control of both fluence and pulse duration for superior efficacy. This ensures that you can provide optimal settings for patients’ individual needs via a user-friendly, intuitive interface. Both Venus Versa and Venus Velocity can treat all skin tones; the Venus Velocity is also safe for tanned skin.

“Linked to the Venus Concept business model of ongoing customer support, cost certainty, zero interest and no service call fees under the unmatched warranty benefit, both systems offer, we believe, the most profitable solution in the aesthetics arena,” comments Price.

Multi-wavelength Distributed by Sternlaser, the Triton from InMode offers multi-wavelength functionality that allows practitioners to emit three of the most popular wavelengths for hair removal. This innovative feature allows concurrent emission of Alexandrite and Diode or Nd:YAG and Diode in a single pulse.

Thus the Triton hair removal workstation allows for the treatment of all hair and skin types, without compromising safety or efficacy.

Say the experts at InMode: “In the past, lasers had to reduce peak power or increase pulse width to reduce the risk for post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) in darker skin types. Now with the Triton, high power and a blend of wavelengths are optimised to make this the ultimate system for hair removal.

“The mosaic combination of wavelengths addresses hair removal at different stages of the hair growth cycle, without increasing the pulse duration and reducing the peak power. This means hair at deeper depths >

online @ probeauty.co.za

Hair Removal

42 can be treated at the same time as newly emerging hair. Thus, patients can see greater results in fewer sessions.”

Redefined According to Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers, Deka has redefined the laser hair removal industry with the Alexandrite wavelength 755nm, by using the new Moveo hand piece technology.

She explains: “Deka’s patented Moveo handpiece was designed to solve the problem of high reflectance between skin and the surrounding air. It uses a sapphire tip that drastically reduces the amount of energy reflected by the skin, with an efficiency that has never been seen until now. The Moveo technology uses simple, even movements over specific areas, removing unwanted hair due to its 20 mm sapphire tip size. The repeated passes over small areas cause gradual heating of the vital parts of the hair, leading to its destruction in a way that is totally painless for the patient, and free from side-effects such as burning or discolouring.

“Deka has overcome the limitations and difficulties of the traditional Alexandrite for hair removal, while retaining all the advantages. The Alex wavelength is now the only wavelength which is effective at treating all skin types, fine and light hair. In fact, no other type of laser can combine an efficient melanin absorption (at 755nm), a high peak power (more than 6,000W) and the possibility of selecting a short pulse length (up to 2ms).”

The Nd:YAG source at 1,064 nm completes the system adding

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a wavelength which penetrates deep inside the skin not only for effective hair removal, but is also effective in vascular treatment for face and legs.

“Deka’s MotysAY guarantees rapid ROI and total patient satisfaction, which will increase your business,” says Olivier.

Global innovator Best Lasers is Sub-Saharan Africa’s sole distributor of Alma Lasers International.

Says Nicola Steenkamp of Best Lasers: “Alma Lasers has been a global innovator in hair removal since 2002, having launched their proprietary SHR/ In-Motion™ technology in 2006. This year they launched the brand-new Soprano ICE Titanium laser, which uses three different hair removal wavelengths simultaneously to target three different depths with one pulse.

“We believe that this, together with the patented In-Motion™ technology and groundbreaking -4*C contact cooling, makes results far superior to what is on the market.

“In addition, the new Titanium boasts unbeatable hair removal treatment times, and can treat a full back in six to 10 minutes.”

Alma has also launched a brand-new Smart Clinic application that connects to any android or Apple device.

The new Titanium Smart Clinic allows you to know which treatment protocols are used the most, which practitioner is

the most effective and what the most popular applicators on the system are. Operators can now address issues when they occur and easier maintain their systems. They can also follow up on operator’s performance, define unique goals/ incentives for each of them and stay in touch with patients. Furthermore, they can also draw up a full patient treatment history, as well as continuously receive marketing updates related to the new Soprano Titanium.

Two technologies Viora’s V30 Multiplatform system, distributed by Medilase, uses two types of technologies to perform hair removal treatments on all skin types: V-IPL and V-Nd:YAG. With PCR™ (Pulse ConfiguRhythm™) Technology, which gives unprecedented control and versatility in pulse structures and durations, Viora’s V-IPL and V-Nd:YAG laser hair removal solutions offer a significant reduction in hair growth. The three pulse configurations integrated in the PCR™ Technology ensure safe, quick and effective treatment for all skin types (Fitzpatrick I-VI).

The safety of the treatment is guaranteed via strong and stable contact cooling, together with a variety of wavelengths (570nm, 630nm, 755 nm and 1064nm), which minimises the chance for the typical side-effects of photo-epilation.

Diode and RF

Distributed by Radiant Healthcare, the Candela elõs Plus Complete Aesthetic Workstation uses patented elõs diode laser and bipolar RF (radiofrequency) for totally painless hair removal on all skin types.

The device offers a fast repetition/pulse rate – 10Hz and is a platform system, which means other applications can be added, such as skin tightening, sublative fractional skin resurfacing, pigmentation, acne, etc.

Ultra-short technology The Primelase Excellence is positioned as the first and only diode laser platform that guarantees a 4.800W Maximum power.

Says Radiant Healthcare’s Melissa Eksteen: “The Primelase Excellence uses the Exclusive Ultra-short technology and is the first laser platform device that combines different wavelengths to perform hair removal suitable for all skin types, including tanned skins, on all hair types, even residual hair.”

The four different wavelengths combined in the Primelase Excellence platform are: Alex (755nm); Diode (810nm); Blend (810nm, 940nm & 1060nm); and Nd:Yag: 1060nm.

Eksteen continues: “This ensures the maximum versatility suitable for all skin types. The Ultrashort pulse technology is available on all four spot sizes at high frequency regardless of fluence. Also included in the device’s technology is Crystal Freeze contact cooling at 5 degrees for patient comfort.”

Hair Removal

43 IPL

BTL’s Exilite™ is an exclusive intense pulsed light (IPL) system that provides excellent results through fast and comfortable treatments. It uses one IPL hand piece only, which makes the capital expense less intensive for the buyer. Inserting a treatment specific filter into the hand piece determines which wavelengths will touch the skin and what type of treatments to perform.

The Exilite™ device can be adjusted according to specific skin types through its Intelligent Multipulse Mode allowing the device parameters, i.e. intensity, flash length and pause between multiple flashes, to be customised according to your needs. Treatments are thus fast, effective and, ultimately, due to the cooling of the sapphire spot, tolerable for the patients, which also implies minimal downtime. The BTL Exilite™ emits up to three pulses per second and is thus deemed to be one of the fastest IPL devices on the market.

Another unique benefit of the Exilite™ is that it employs a scientifically proven technology principle of yellow LED modular light, which is used to treat the skin area after the IPL procedure. PB online @ probeauty.co.za

Aesthetic Medicine

44

NECESSARY

inflammation After an injury is inflicted onto skin, a biological cascade called inflammation is generated in the body. The sole purpose of inflammation is to heal the injured skin, writes KAREN ELLITHORNE.

I

n aesthetic or wounding treatments, we get our best results from acute inflammation. This is the inflammation that occurs immediately after injury and is a temporary inflammation to limit further injury, as well as assist with kick-starting the repair and healing process of the skin in order to prompt it to regenerate.

Continued injury and incitement leads to chronic inflammation. In this situation, the inflammatory process persists and begins to do damage, as opposed to repairing and regenerating that specific area of the body.

Both types of inflammation work towards one major goal and that is healing the wound.

Aesthetic skin resurfacing procedures like chemical peels, ablative lasers and dermabrasion used to remove irregularities, pigmentation and photodamage, require injuring the skin. Post treatment, the client’s skin will appear red and warm. The results that can be generated are miraculous and life-changing, but this is only if the duration period of the inflammation is quick and the skin is able to heal itself.

When inflammation persists over a longer duration, the client will take longer to recover from the procedure. In addition, excessive healing responses are activated, which could result in scarring and hyper or hypo pigmentation.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Aesthetic skin resurfacing procedures like chemical peels, ablative lasers and dermabrasion used to remove irregularities, pigmentation and photodamage, require injuring the skin.

The risk of thermal damage has been reduced through better and newer technology, namely fractional lasers and the combination of laser technologies, which help to promote faster skin recovery.

Lasers have slowly transitioned over the years, from ablative to non-ablative, while dermabrasion devices have been replaced by microdermabrasion. Chemical

peels have also transitioned, from the original aggressive phenol peels to more superficial AHA and HA (i.e. fruit acid) peels, that resurface the skin in a more controlled manner in order to limit skin injury inflammation and down time.

Pre-procedure protocol Before embarking on any wounding treatment, it is vital to ensure that the skin is functioning properly and has the ability to heal itself. It is important not to overtreat the skin and allow enough time for the skin to repair itself between treatments before embarking on the next one.

The skin is the last organ in the body to receive vital nutrients from our diets. It is therefore not only essential that the clients follow a healthy, nutritious diet but that they also take additional

supplementation, namely Zinc and Vitamin C. Both are vital for healthy skin and collagen production.

In the weeks leading up to the treatment, it is important to prepare the skin adequately by daily application of an anti-oxidant serum, preferably in a stable form of vitamin C underneath a daily moisturiser and sun protection.

It is advisable to use a product in the evening that assists to speed up the cell turnover. This will assist in speeding up the skin’s functionality and in sloughing off dead skin cells, ensuring that the treatment is more effective and the skin is well prepared for the wounding treatment.

Post procedure protocol Inflammation comprises the following clinical components – swelling, redness, heat and pain.

How much the client has of each of the above will generally be an indication of the duration of down time.

A number of years ago, growth factors that were secreted from fibroblasts were found to heal wounds and greatly reduce wrinkles and fine lines on the skin when used topically. This led to SkinMedica’s famous TNS serum, which was used after laser rejuvenation treatments to promote wound healing and new collagen production.

More recently, they have found that using the protein growth factors secreted by umbilical cord lining stem cells that contain anti-inflammatory cytokines assist in decreasing inflammation and promote wound healing when applied to skin after a resurfacing treatment.

Many case studies have been done to prove that the efficacy and success of using these serums post treatment can dramatically decrease inflammation by reducing redness and swelling. They can also decrease the symptoms of heat and pain, which are likely due to the anti-inflammatory protein cytokines found in the stem cells.

Anti-inflammatory A new anti-inflammatory product has just been launched into the industry by DermAfrica Medical Aesthetics called FluorOxy Repair. This contains a combination of the following three ingredients: sonicated hyaluronic acid, perfluorodecalin, and physalis angulata perfluorodecalin, which can carry and bind up to 49% of its own volume with oxygen when combined with sonicated hyaluronic acid. This property makes it one of the best ingredients in wound healing procedures.

By increasing oxygen levels, erfluorodecalin significantly

provides faster wound healing and reduced erythema and scarring.

The repairing and antiinflammatory properties of perfluorodecalin are also suitable after Q-switched and Nd:YAG laser treatments. Topical perfluorodecalin is able to rapidly resolve clinical whitening and depigmentation and permits transmission of light within a few seconds after application.

Vegetable origin Physalis angulata is a vegetable-origin active ingredient.

It is extremely effective as a corticoid due to its immense immunomodulating and its ‘antiphoto-ageing’ properties. Further, it increases serine proteases, while maintaining and repairing skin collagen.

After in vitro tests that compared it with hydrocortisone, physalis angulata showed similar characteristics (decreasing pro-inflammatory cytokines and inflammatory mediators with related enzymes) but not the collated effects commonly associated with cortico-steroids, such as immunosuppression or reduced tissue growth factor (TGF).

Physalis angulata decreases intradermal microinflammation, regulates temperature, provides protection against infrared rays and visible light and increases collagen. FluorOxy Repair also contains bisabolol, a very wellknown anti-inflammatory, calming and lenitive ingredient.

Keeping inflammation under control in wounding treatments is the key to success and, with the rapid progression of cosmetic science, it seems we may be well on our way to finding an optimal solution to control the heat. PB A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

Aesthetic Medicine

45

Product News

46

market IN THE

Our round-up of new products and treatments

Superior biology Placecol’s Excellence range is positioned as the brand’s ‘superior biological solution’, comprising four hero products, each targeted at a specific skin concern. The range consists of Brighten Solution, Gravity Lift Solution, Pure Solution, and Scar Solution. These products penetrate the skin at a cellular level to deliver optimal results from the inside out.

011 086 9800

Collagen all the way Sun Collagen Gold is a high purity natural bioactive collagen supplement powder for skin, body and sport that uniquely protects the eyes and skin against UV rays. This fat-free, sugar-free and gluten-free source of protein stimulates collagen production for healthy ageing, joints, bones, muscles, skin, eyes, cartilage, hair and nails.

011 726 3705

Magic cloth MakeUp Eraser is positioned as the first ever reusable makeup removal system, having launched in 2013. It only requires water to remove all makeup (including waterproof eyeliner and mascara, HD makeup and stage makeup) and is reusable, lasting between two and four years. The MakeUp Eraser cloth is made out of a 100% polyester blend.

064 540 6180

‘G’ is for gel The pHformula G.E.L. Cleanse is a gentle, soap-free gel wash for all skin types. It thoroughly removes makeup, oil and impurities without disturbing the skin’s natural moisture balance. Anti-inflammatory, the gel contains lactic acid to help break down the desmosomes (bonds between cells) to allow easier exfoliation while hydrating the skin.

082 338 2368 online @ probeauty.co.za

Right on cue

Product News

47

Effervescence

Immersed within exotic oils lie two outstanding anti-ageing active ingredients – Prickly Pear (rich in antioxidants and vitamins E and K) and BV-OSC (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), a powerful oil-soluble form of vitamin C. Both of these ingredients are incorporated into the formulation of the RégimA’ ‘On Q’ Quenching Facial Oil.

The Milk Solutions Bath Bomb Cannister is a counter top retail display canister filled with three assorted variants of the classic Milk Solutions soaks in bath bombs. Each bomb consists of two spheres, providing two pampering treats in a single bomb.

011 454 8119

011 615 2869

Face first Red Dane’s newest addition to its face oil collection for men is the Facial Cleansing Oil. This luxurious purifying cleanser is made with eight natural plant oils and vitamin E. Deep cleansing, hydrating, nourishing and balancing, the product is free from parabens, phthalates, sulfates, colourants, gluten and mineral oil.

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SAAHSP

48

Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry in SA

Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

Professional Body stance on Plasma Devices SAAHSP Professional Body has taken a professional approach and stance within the skin, body and nail industry to ensure those members working with any type of Plasma Device have a minimum 2- or 3-year Qualification – Health and Skincare Therapy and hold a Beauty Therapist / Somatology Designation.

A Beauty Therapist / Somatologist, as part of their training, must have completed the following Modules in great detail: A full 2- or 3-year’s training comprising the following subjects: • Anatomy and Physiology and Pathology • Dermatology and Diseases and Disorders • Facial Treatments including electrical equipment • Specialised Body Treatments including electrical equipment • Full Body Massage • Hygiene and Sterilisation • Chemistry and Physics • Cosmetology • Cosmetic Science online @ probeauty.co.za

• Provide advice to clients on treatment plan, homecare and use of cosmetic and health products • Business Module to enable them to perform Administrative and Managerial tasks in the working environment A Beauty Therapist or Somatologist working with a Plasma Device or any electrical equipment – Galvanic, Iontophoresis, High Frequency, Vacuum Suction, Micro Current, Interferential, Faradic, G5, Micro-needling, Microdermabrasion, Chemical Peels, Derma-planing – should refer patients/clients/ guests to a Dermatologist if uncertain of various skin

diseases, disorders and lesions.

Extensive knowledge of wound caring and healing and post care application is essential when administering a Plasma Device or an Advanced Electrical Machine on a patient/ client/guest.

The Plasma Training offered does adhere to a 2- or 3-year qualification within the Health and Skincare Industry, therefore, an unqualified person/ therapist who lacks the indepth knowledge and does not have a full understanding of the Skin and Body will not be permitted use a Plasma Device.

This person/therapist will be working out of their scope of practice, which is unethical and irresponsible. PB

Issue 28

Sept 2019

Image courtesy of Bio Sculpture

STRONG SELL Retailing tips

CLEAN SWEEP Taking care of brushes

Spring into Summer S E A S O N A L

T R E N D S

A

Tel: 011 675

6518, Fax:

086 588 0973

, Postal addr ess: Postnet

Suite 236,

Private Bag X1,

Cresta

of Bio Sculp ture

s this issue was going to print, already there was a slight hint of Spring in the air due to a very welcome bout of Issue 28 warmer weather. A change of seasons is always an Sept 2019 exciting time for nail techs as it brings with it the opportunity to tempt clients with intoxicating new collections and nail art designs. Our extensive Style Savvy feature in this issue details, in the most fascinating way, the Spring/Summer 2019 catwalk nail trends.

It’s no secret that most nail techs don’t like selling, which is not surprising as they are not sales people. However, as we all know, retail is an essential part of any salon’s overall turnover. In this issue we include a very useful article on retailing and how to get your techs to change their attitude towards selling.

STRONG SE LL Retailing We also run an article on how to care for that most important tips CL EA of tools, the sculpturing brush.

N SWEEP Ta Image court esy

Nail Design Competition Welcome

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king care of brushe s

Nailing It

Spring Suminmtoer S E A S O N A L

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

T R E N D S

WHAT’S INSIDE

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News

Tools

Step by Step

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Ask the Experts

Style Savvy

Product Hub

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Step by Step

Top Tech Talk

Stay in the know

Persuading clients to try nail art

53 Business

A retail frame of mind online @ probeauty.co.za

Brush it off

The bright side

Pretty in pink

Petal power

The latest launches

Larisa Gouws

51 News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips

Nail techs rank clients’ worst habits

P

icking at gel polish between treatments ranked as the worst client habit that nail techs experience, according to a recent survey conducted by Professional Beauty UK. Amanda Pauley writes: “Making sure clients get the best results

from their appointment is a nail tech’s top priority, which is why it’s annoying when customers damage their nails. Clients need to understand that the gel is bonded to the keratin in their nails so improper removal will weaken the natural nail.”

Pauley goes on to list the other top things that nail techs wished their clients wouldn’t do: doing housework without gloves on; biting their nails; cutting their cuticles; coming in for treatments when sick, and applying hand cream just before they come in.

Lee launches Zsa Zsa Nails

An industry professional with 25 years of experience in nail therapy training and R&D, Johanensburgbased Lilian Lee has launched Zsa Zsa Nails, her very own brand of professional nail products.

Says Lee: “It has been my passion to create and combine the latest high quality nail products under a professional brand to achieve stylish mastery, incorporating fashion and modern technology.

“Zsa Zsa Nails took almost two years to develop and I must acknowledge my co-founder, Nadia Erasmus, who really assisted me with her inspiration and experience during development and is now our head trainer. We cooperated with reputable manufacturers and experienced cosmetic chemists in the US, Africa and Asia to develop the product formula to match our required performance. Our products are non-damaging and durable.”

Nail professionals have a wide selection of Zsa Zsa products to choose from, namely pot gel vs gel polish; hard gel vs soak off gel; acrylic system vs Acrygel; rubbery or breathable gel (in pots); nail art embellishments and foil; and nail machines and tools.

Zsa Zsa Nails is already being exported to Asia, Europe and the US. Lee is offering 25 different professional training courses with certificates of merit, ranging from basic courses (1 day) to a full course of up to 11 days. There are also educator licence and distributor courses aimed at those who would like to become Zsa Zsa Nails educators and distributors. In

addition, nails techs have short nail art courses to choose from that focus on a specific technique, such as one stroke or marble ink, for example.

Lee is currently developing online courses as well.

Commenting on the name for her brand, Lee reveals that it was in part inspired by Zsa Zsa Gabor, the late glamorous Hollywood movie star who had a very colourful private life, having married nine times.

“Her image matches that of my brand. To me, nails will never be boring, clinical or serious. They must be creative, bubbly, crazy, sexy, feminine and exciting,” concludes Lee.

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Business Tips

52

ask

the EXPERTS

QUESTION: How can I persuade my more conservative clients to try nail art and should

my salon have a nail art menu?

TANIA BIDDLE Offering nail art as an additional treatment option in the salon is a great way in which to earn a potential extra income. So often I get asked the question: ‘How can I increase my salon sales and reach a higher target?’ Most technicians are already working six days a week, starting early in the morning and finishing late in the day. Technicians are time bound in the salon, behind the nail table.

Nail art has become a sought after treatment, with few salons offering the more advanced nail art applications. Because nail art is an additional add-on service, it must be charged for accordingly.

The pricing of the nail art per finger, or per a full set, will be dependent on how long it takes to complete, what type of nail art medium is used, as well as the level of skill required to complete the design. online @ probeauty.co.za

As a nail technician you should always be honest with your client.

Clients tend to draw inspiration from the internet, often bringing photos along of what they would like to have done. If you feel that you cannot achieve that specific design, explain this to your client and possibly offer her an alternative design.

Always ensure that you have enough time booked to complete the requested nail art design and feel confident on delivering according to the client’s expectations.

Clients try what they see. Think of a nice way to display nail art in the salon for all clients to see. Even if a client is not very adventurous and daring with her nails, she might like to add an accent glitter nail or a glitter fade.

Often it happens that it’s just that first step to nail art that the

client takes; after that it becomes somewhat of an addiction.

Also make sure that your own nails are always done, with regular new sets displaying different colours and nail art techniques.

A client will often choose what she sees on her technician’s nails.

Before proceeding with the appointment the technician should always confirm the pricing of the nail art, as well as how long this specific design will take to complete.

Tania Biddle is the head of International Education for Bio Sculpture and the owner of Plush Nails & Beauty in Roodepoort.

A

retail frame of mind

LEA CASTRO provides some valuable insight into how to get your techs to sell more products in the salon.

A

s nail professionals we are in the business of servicing and spoiling our clients. So, what does this look like?

We need to offer the highest standard of treatments, ensuring our clients are our focus.

They need to experience a short vacation from reality while with you.

Part of excellence in service is to prescribe solutions to problems your clients have. Everyone is using hand cream, cuticle oil, mascara and facial care products. The question is – why are they not buying these products from you?

You cannot present something if you do not believe in it. First-hand experience of what the product has done for you is very powerful. You have to be sincere and honest.

While you are busy with a client, discuss some concerns she may be encountering, for example, excessively dry cuticles. Explain to

Then finally, the art of closing the deal. This is as easy as asking the right question: “How many would you like?”

“Where are we going to start?” “Is there anything specific you needed today?” her how you can help her – go into detail about the ingredients of your product of choice and what they will do for her. Expand on how easy the product is to use and how it will solve her problem.

Perceptions Don’t tell me that you are not a sales person! Really?! When you go to the cinema and see a great

movie, what is the first thing you do? You tell all your friends about it, right? Exactly! So, what did you just do? You sold them the movie!

We need to change our perception of selling; we are offering our clients the opportunity to use products that will help them long term. The healthier the natural nail, the better the nail product will last, which makes your job easier when it comes to maintenance.

This will ensure the client’s nails last longer and look great on her next visit to your salon. Sales and service are synonymous.

Go on – just try it. What is the worst thing that can happen? The client says no. Don’t take that as rejection, which we all fear, but rather a challenge to try again with your next client.

Seal the deal Then finally, the art of closing the deal. This is as easy as asking the right question: “How many would you like?”

“Where are we going to start?”

“Is there anything specific you needed today?” “Some mascara?” and so on. This must be done in a light tone yet still convincing enough that your client feels that she/he needs it.

Retail should at least pay your rent and it can be as high as 60% of your turnover.

If you motivate your team with commission, targets, incentives, competition etc, it helps to create the momentum of retail within your business.

Remember that product training is imperative as is having stock on hand all the time.

All you have to do is try it.

I guarantee your success.

Lea Castro is the founder and owner of Looking Good LCN. online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Tips

53

Tools

54

Brush it off

A

Nail professionals SEELENA PILLAY and SONETTE VAN RENSBURG give their top tips on how to clean sculpting brushes and take care of them.

s Seleena Pillay, owner and principal of Nail Therapy SA Training & Distributions says, flawless application of any product depends a lot on your tools.

She continues: “Your most important tool would be your brush and it generally becomes one with you. Brushes vary in shape, size and quality, with natural hair brushes being the most sought after.”

Pillay, who is also the founder of Nail Art Boss and was a 2017 Regional World Skills Expert, emphasises that caring for your

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brushes is vitally important and offers the following tips: • Do not soak your brushes in acetone, as this will dry out the bristles and cause them to fan out.

• Try to avoid soaking brushes for prolonged periods in brush cleaners as the main ingredient in brush cleaners is acetone.

• Soak your brush in a dappen dish with monomer.

• Achieving the correct ratio for your acrylic application will prevent build up.

• If your brush loses shape, soak it in warm water with liquid soap.

• Never fail to condition your brush in clean monomer before storing it.

Pillay advises that nail techs invest in a brush case to keep the brush in a single protected place.

“Every artist dips her brush into her soul and paints her own nature into her pictures,” she concludes.

Personalised tool Educator Sonette van Rensburg of Elements Beauty Concepts is adamant that you should never allow your brush to be used by another nail technician.

“To condition the brush, place a little sculpting monomer in a clean, dappen dish and submerge the brush to remove any remaining gum. Press the brush firmly from side to side to be sure the brush is coated with monomer. Be sure to eliminate all the air that is trapped between the hairs, which could lead to bubbles in your product. Dispose of the conditioning/ cleaning liquid and shape and clean the brush on a lint free nail pad. Do not use your fingers. Avoid touching monomer that may seep through the pad and never touch the brush hairs with your skin,” comments Van Rensburg.

Training the brush She goes on to say that a sculpting brush must be trained to your touch and advises that before using it, you should dip the hairs into your monomer to saturate them and then glide the brush through a lint free pad to taper it to your desired shape.

If any hairs are standing out, dip the brush back in the monomer and carefully guide them back in place by continuing to wipe it on a nail wipe. Do not pluck or pull the hairs out as this will only cause voids in the ferrule of the brush and will affect your application.

Regular cleaning “Your brush will shape itself according to the way you work with it and the techniques you use, so someone else using it will only interfere with the way you have trained your brush to work for you,” explains Van Rensburg.

In terms of preparing a new brush for use, Van Rensburg notes that the natural sable hairs of a brush are protected with an ‘Arabic gum’ coating, which must be removed very carefully prior to using the brush for the first time.

“Use a lint free, disposable wipe between your thumb and fingers and spread the hairs gently to release the gum from the bristles.

Gently rock the brush back and forth, releasing all the gum powder from the brush.

According to Van Rensburg, the sculpting brush needs to be cleaned after each use. “You should only clean sable hair or acrylic sculpting brushes in clean, fresh liquid monomer. Although there are now special brush cleaners to clean your brush, I still prefer to use clean monomer to clean with and to keep it in the best condition. I even use a bit of cuticle oil to nourish the bristles and then I make sure I clean the brush well with IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) before use. I believe that brush cleaners are better for cleaning synthetic gel brushes.

“Never force any stuck product from the brush, or pull out the bristles. Should your acrylic sculpting brush become clogged

with product, saturate it in monomer until the product has softened and then gently work the product out with an orange wood stick and wipe on a lint free pad until all product is free from the brush. The same goes for a gel sculpting brush; soak it in the recommended brush cleaner and do the same as for cleaning an acrylic brush.”

Prior to liquid & powder application, Van Rensburg advises that the nail tech retrains the brush by dipping it into some fresh clean monomer before use, and then disposing of the monomer. Fresh, clean monomer should be used for each client.

“When sculpting, create a bead that is the correct consistency as recommended by the manufacturer. Press and smooth it into place and only wipe the brush when each bead is completely applied. Pressing will keep liquid flowing through the brush to keep it clean,” she states.

Storage It is very important to store your brushes correctly and properly, as good sculpting brushes are normally quite expensive, so it’s best to take good care of them.

Says Van Rensburg: “Never store your brush upright in a container because if the brush is not cleaned properly, old monomer will run down into the ferrule of the brush and stay there until it is used again.

The fresh liquid will soften and release the old liquid, causing the fresh product to yellow when performing an application.

“Once you have cleaned the brush, wrap the bristles up with a lint free wipe or clean paper towel, and always store the brush lying down flat, horizontally, in a separate brush case or holder. Make sure it is covered to protect it from being exposed to dust and other contaminants, which could affect the condition of your brush,” concludes Van Rensburg.

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Tools

55

Business StyleTrends Savvy

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bright THE

SIDE

From nearly nudes to neon brights, PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY UK dissects the Spring/Summer 2019 catwalk nail trends.

Neutrals Well-groomed, barely-there nails featuring a round shape were ubiquitous at the Spring/ Summer (SS19) fashion shows.

Celebrity and session manicurist Marie-Louise Coster, who worked both the London and Paris shows, reveals: “There were a lot of classic, clean, natural, well-manicured nails on show, especially for the likes of Hermès, Ralph & Russo and Jasper Conran and also on a special Victoria Beckham trunk show I did.”

When ‘neutral’ nails did feature colour, muted, earthy tones were used, all with an on-trend matte finish. “Nudes, beiges and neutral colours are trending once again,” agrees Samantha Birkett-Leigh, CND education ambassador and session tech who worked on the nails for the Mary Katrantzou SS19 show. The CND Design Lab used a little less than 4000ml of CND Brisa Clear Gel to make the nails for Mary Katrantzou’s show, with Birkett-Leigh creating a ‘blown

glass’ nail with a delicate silver tap that floated to the tip.

At the Eudon Choi show, nails were fashioned by Pebbles Aikens at The Wall Group using Jessica polishes in the tanned nude Natural Splendor, the olive Bobo Chic and in Simply Sexy, a cool nude crème. Elsewhere at David Koma, Cherrie Snow, head of nails for Jessica used Custom Colour in Tease with a No Shine Matte Finish top coat for gorgeous nude talons.

To complement Palmer Harding’s collection focused on lively, graphic structures, nail tech Sabrina Gayle also employed a warm, nude shade, this time using colours from Artistic Nails. She says: “We started by filing nails to a short and round shape and then applied Artisatic Colour Revolution in Cafe Latte – it has this gorgeous, creamy coffee finish which looked super elegant and chic against the colours of the clothing. This shade is perfect for all skin tones too.”

Julie-Anne Larivière, nail expert at Salon System adds “A new kind of neutral will be very on-trend this spring/summer. Colours like pale peach, caramel and coffee will take the front row as opposed to the usual nude shades,” she comments.

Lauded as ‘an animated, lifeaffirming shade of orange, with golden undertones’, Living Coral is Pantone’s designated on-trend colour for 2019.

This summery tone added splashes of colour to both clothing and accessories on the Temperley, Prabal Gurung and Gucci catwalks. Matching this sunny hue, pretty coral nails in various shades were evident throughout SS19 fashion weeks.

Most noticeable at Temperley, mouth-watering talons were imagined by Cherrie Snow using Jessica polish in Juicy Melon. Celebrity nail artist Jenni Draper predicts that, for clients, “Corals will be the big colour player this season”. “Nail colours will be uplifting and empowering; reddish corals, sunny yellows and rich royal blues that provide confidence and spirit,” she adds.

Shades of coral

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Business StyleTrends Savvy

57 Pretty pastels with a twist Ice cream colours that evoke a promise of sunshine were seen at Stella McCartney SS19, while frills and flounces, pastels and veils, rosettes and feathers graced the Marc Jacobs collection. Session and celebrity nail tech Lucy Tucker believes that the pastel palette will be huge on nails this season: “I predict that we’re going to be using lots of pastel colours, especially those with a matte finish,” she says. However, she says these will be given a modern slant. “This pastel look could involve mixing up two colours on one nail,” says Tucker. “Coloured tips are making a comeback, a French with a twist.”

Inspired by the ocean and its surrounding colours, the SS19 Fyodor Golan collection featured an aquatic-theme with pearly seainspired textures. To balance this, Sabrina Gayle painted pastel, matte colours on models’ nails.

“Fyodor’s ensembles were detailed with pearls, holographic discs and textures so we decided to keep the nail looking natural and organic. I used two shades to create the iridescent matte nail, Satin Frost, an iridescent lilac blue, and Love, a milky pink,

by Artistic Nail Design.”

Bright and bold Neon colours and outlandish nail art made a splash at several shows. Representing Salon Systems, Karen Louise says: “2019 will see the comeback of bold and creative nail art. Think strong nail art with colours that will really pop against each other and high shine.”

One standout look was the two-tone nails with a nude base and an oversized red dot at the tip created by Marie Louise Coster for Yuhan Wang. Meanwhile, to match Manish Arora’s SS19 collection of clothes in bright, bold hues, more than 20 bright shades from the CND Vinylux collection were employed.

Similarly, the geometric prints, blazers, frilled dresses and poodle skirts in shades of blue, navy, white and deep red in Katie Ann McGuigan’s SS19 collection inspired

Pebbles Aikens to choose various vibrant polishes from Morgan Taylor in shades in blues, pinks and greens for model’s nails.

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Step by Step

58

Pretty

Pink in

South African-born, Netherlands-based international awardwinning nail stylist and educator, TRACEY LEE, created this dazzlingly pretty design when a client walked into her salon and said the magic words: “You choose!”

1 2 3 4

In order to create a coffin shape nail, place your form in the same way that you would a stiletto nail. The top view will be tapered to a point.

The form from the side view drops slightly. I like to use the end point of the form on the same height as the lower arch. Ensure your form is well tapered and snug under the natural nail.

Customise the form to prevent lateral side walls from pushing the form out. (For more information you can look at Tracey Lee’s online class, ‘Fundamentals of Forms’ via Beauty2trs.com.)

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Apply a layer of clear gel over the entire nail plate and then extend onto the form to create the coffin shape. It is important to keep this layer as even as possible. Cure.

Remove the form, cleanse the inhibition layer. Gently file the lower arches and free edge.

5

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8

9

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12

Select a colour gel or gel polish of your choice and apply a thin layer to the free edge. Do not cure.

Repeat this process to intensify the free edge colour. Cure.

Apply the acrygel to the entire nail bed and fade it out towards the extension edge. In order to do this I keep my brush at a 45 degree angle which keeps the bulk towards the back.

Apply a thin layer of clear gel to the entire extension to create the final shape. This layer of clear gel also protects the ombre when you start filing.

13 File the nail into shape.

Ensure that you maintain your apex and that the lower arches run straight out from the natural nail.

Business Step by Trends Step

59 Using your ombre brush as parallel to possible to the nail plate, gently fade out the gel polish. Cure.

Apply a bead of acrygel to the nail bed. I am using a soft pink colour which is pretty opaque. It is possible to use a darker colour too.

Doing this technique ensures that there is an ombre effect, but also that the colour gel colour appears properly at the free edge.

Cleanse the inhibition layer and get ready for filing.

Apply a layer of liquid latex to the skin surround the nail to protect it during stamping. NB! Check that your clients do not have latex allergies before using this on them.

14 online @ probeauty.co.za

Step by Step

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15

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Select where the design will go by looking through the Yours Halo Stamper for perfect placement.

17

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Select a plate of your choice.

I am using Yours Cosmetics ‘Design Medley’ Stamping Plate. Apply a thin layer of white stamping polish to the plate and distribute it over the plate with the scrape card.

Pick up the design with the Yours Halo Stamper.

Roll the design onto the nail.

Place your rhinestones securely using a gem gel. Cure.

Peel off the liquid latex.

21 In order to secure silver bullions, roll the bullions in gem gel before applying them.

Final nail from the top

final nail The side view

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Up close and personal with the rhinestone detail.

61 Business Product Step by Trends News Step

Petal power KSENIYA PECHYORINA of Shine On Nail Art Design created this unusual and elegant look.

T

o prepare, paint two coats of your base colour on the practice tip and cure for 30 seconds after each coat. Seal the base color with a matte top coat and swab with an alcohol wipe.

2

Add a smaller petal to each side and cure for 10 seconds.

5

Add curved lines on each side, in between the petals, starting thicker at the top and thinner towards the end.

Cure for 10 seconds.

8

Complete the design with dots. Apply different pressures to make different dot sizes.

1 3

Using white gel paint, place a dot in the centre of the tip, leavening 3mm from the bottom. Use a transparent white gel colour to create the shape of flower petal. Cure for 10 seconds.

Using white gel paint, add a thin outline to the main petal, starting from the centre and then adding to left and the right side of the petal.

Cure for 10 seconds.

6

Add a few dots on the curved lines and cure for 10 seconds.

4

Add outlines to the side petals and cure for 10 seconds.

7

Fill the centre of the flower with gold foil gel. Cure for 30 seconds.

9

Fill the petals and the glitter centre piece with no wipe top gloss.

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62 Business In the Market Trends

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails

Sheer shades Artistic Nail Design has introduced a new twist on classic shades with the Sheerly Devoted Wedding 2019 collection. This palette of six pinks and nudes, that range from sheer to opaque, flatter every skin tone.

011 305 1600

Flower power Colour goes full bloom with Gelish and Morgan Taylor’s Spring 2019 Collection – The Color Of Petals. Inspired by the soft and subtle colours of your favourite flowers, this collection provides the perfect finishing touch to any colourful springtime look.

011 447 0659

Pink arrival Check in to ibd’s colorful new reality known as, The Pink Motel. Light and bright pink shades invite you to pamper yourself at this rosy roadside oasis, while poolside bluegreens and teals call you to lounge around.

011 305 1600

Subtle shimmer

When in Rome

From NSI, the Glaze ‘n Go Tack-Free LED/UV Enhancement Sealant can add a bit of sparkle or a little pink to your finished nail enhancements.

It’s as easy as applying top coat.

Bio Sculpture’s new Bio Gel collection, Nights in Rome, comprises shades that evoke this iconic city – Angelic Statue, Starlit Cobblestone, Antique Granite, Mauve Regalia and Knights Armour.

012 997 4010

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0861 246 435

Top Tech Talk NailFile talks to the award-winning Larisa Gouws about how her abiding love of nails has helped forge a successful one-woman business.

What do nails mean to you?

In short, nails are my entire life.

I eat, dream and breathe nails.

For how long have you been a nail tech?

From being a part-time tech until this present day, it has been eight years. At the moment I am renting a chair from The Nail Tech & Fish Spa. This happened through a happy coincidence – at the time when I decided that I needed a space to focus permanently on nails, the owner of The Nail Tech & Fish Spa was looking for a partner in the salon. It was the best move ever and we ended up becoming great friends.

Where did you do your training in nails?

When I started my journey in nails, I did my initial training at Planet Nails, and in 2017, I trained at Bio Sculpture West Rand. Near the end of last

year, I expanded with Maskscara Gel. I do believe that you don’t do training only once, as when new products and techniques appear on the market, you need to stay up to date. This year I am enjoying training with Alina Kuzmenko in Johannesburg to broaden my nail art skills.

How did your career develop?

I started out in 2011 with acrylic nails, doing nails only after work at people’s houses. From one customer a week, it eventually grew to two per afternoon. After several enquiries about Bio Sculpture Gel, I decided to go for the course in 2017. Things started happening really quickly after then. My then boss allowed me to work half days so that I could focus more on nails. Customers really loved the gel. I started participating in competitions and won the Professional Beauty Overlay Competition in September 2017.

The following year I started working at a salon but soon realised it wasn’t for me, so I left and started renting the chair at The Nail Tech & Fish Spa.

In short, nails are my entire life. I eat, dream and breathe nails.

What are the biggest challenges that you, as a nail professional, face in the industry?

I find it very challenging that nail techs are so critical of each other. We are all learning every day; it’s a journey so we shouldn’t be so harsh on each other.

Competitiveness can be seen as a good thing and as a challenge.

It is indeed challenging to get ahead as there is always someone better than you, but this is good as it keeps you on your toes.

Another problem in the industry is that would-be nail techs with no training are influencing our customers; they are making our jobs more difficult through their poor work and by damaging nails. So customers assume it is like that everywhere.

You regularly compete in the Professional Beauty Annual Competition and the NailFile Nail Design Challenges. How do you manage to fit in competing with your busy schedule?

It is hard because time is very limited. But as I said before, I live and breathe nails. This means that I do not switch off from work when I close the salon at night.

Whenever there is a competition coming up, I think and rethink > online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Trends Q&A

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64 Business Trends Q&A

I believe that after you won the Professional Beauty Nail Competition, your diary became fully booked in no time. How did you get the word out about your success?

and plan what I want to do with the nails. I go as far as drawing up rough drafts and constantly shop for the perfect supplies. I drive my family and friends insane because all they hear is ‘nails, nails, nails!’

Sometimes, a ‘no show’ customer, or a customer who cancels, is a blessing in disguise as it means I can get a little ahead with my competition planning.

I posted on social media and from there on my customers spread the word and the rest is history.

My trophy is on display where I work. People would ask what was it for and they would tell their friends.

Before I knew it, it I was booked in advance.

Do most of your clients request nail art?

Yes! All the time! I love it when they bring their inspiration with them. Or, if they just give a hint of an idea or colour, then my creative juices start flowing and we are well on our way to decorative nails.

What is your ultimate goal?

Goals change as you go along.

My biggest goal since starting out was to be a full time nail tech, with enough customers to make my living. This was my biggest dream and I am living it now.

From this point on, I am making new goals. I would ultimately like to be one of the big names who are well known in the industry and to be one of those nail techs who can do anything when asked to do a set of nails. Being able to do ‘Pinterest nails’ as those sets are flawless. I find this career fascinating and know I have a long walk ahead of me.

What advice would you give someone who wants to embark on a career in nails?

Do not give up. Things will be tough and establishing a customer base is a slow process but it gets better. Learn as much as possible, research, read and find out about

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new ideas. Customers love it if you offer them something new.

And, always start with a good professional nail brand, it is more expensive but it is worth it.

What is the craziest nail art you have ever been asked to do?

Crazy like ‘Jersey Shore’, never, but crazy as in unusual, definitely.

I once had a request where I had to paint a logo of my customer’s PC gaming profile. On another occasion I had to paint America’s ‘Rosie the Riveter’ from World War II. It’s fascinating what customers come up with.

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