Pbjune

June 2013

www.probeauty.co.za

Treatment reviews Anti-ageing facials

Durban dazzles Show review

Techno for

talons Latest nail science

Medical Aesthetics Radio-frequency

Turning

Heads

Unusual spa therapies

Î

CONTENTS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

66 44

16 59

June 2013 Regulars

Spa/salon focus

Nails

7 Industry news Local and international news from the beauty front

21 The principles of persuasion Q & A with spa expert Neil Orvey, co-founder of Sense of Touch in Hong Kong

44 Techno for Talons Nail polish ingredients investigated

16 Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys Role of supplementation 33 Treatment reviews Current offerings 58 Product news All the latest launches 60 SAAHSP What’s happening at SAAHSP

22 Luxury spa, luxurious experience Soulstice Day Spa at Silver Star Casino reviewed

27 Turning heads Unusual beauty therapies 38 Professional Beauty Durban 2013 Report back on event happenings

Business 11 Solving the mystery Mystery shopping your staff 13 What does the consumer want?

Knowing your clients and growing business

22

Features

42 Close at hand Hand cream offerings

Medical Aesthetics 49 The window to the soul Interview with Dr. Renier van Aardt 50 Ride this wave Radio frequency

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WELCOME

W

e have been working on the international Spa convention and have decided on a very apt theme for this year’s event – “Survival of the fittest - How fit is your business?”

Whether you are going on diet running the Comrades, opening a new business, revamping your existing business, or planning that much needed get away; Each of these requires a certain level of commitment in order to achieve a positive outcome. The same rings true when it comes to survival in this competitive market. In order for your business to stay fit there is no time to rest on your laurels, coast along, and believe that your business will stay on track.

After attending a recent seminar, it became very apparent that our current global market is evolving every three

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months. If you are not ready to better understand these shifting changes and mind-sets, you are going to be left behind.

This is the time to take charge, go online (www.probeauty.co.za) and book for our inspiring Professional Beauty International Spa convention where top international and local players will share their valuable insights and advice.

You will also find details of the Medical Aesthetics Convention at www. medicalaesthetics.co.za, if this is an area you are looking intol

Publisher Mark Moloney

011 781 5970

Managing Director Yolanda Knott

083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

mark@probeauty.co.za

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

phil@probeauty.co.za

Editor-in-chief Sally Harvey

011 781 5970

sally@probeauty.co.za

Sales manager Belinda Wewege

073 033 8599 belinda@probeauty.co.za

Senior Sales executive Charlene Dickson 082 758 1703 charlene@probeauty.co.za

June 2013

www.probeauty.co.za

P RO F E S S I O N A L

Treatment reviews Anti-ageing facials

BEAUTY J A N U A RY / F E B RU A RY

Durban dazzles Show review

Techno for

Talons Latest nail science

Medical Aesthetics

2013

On the cover Sourced from: www.istockphoto.com

Radio-frequency

Turning

Heads

Subscribe 9 issues for R429 (SA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

Unusual spa therapies

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com

Sales executive - Medical Aesthetics Sally-Jane Nkomo 071 268 2868 sally-jane@probeauty.co.za Subscriptions Salomie Scarth

011 781 5970

salomie@probeauty.co.za

Art director Ursula Wong

011 781 5970

ursula@probeauty.co.za

Accounts manager Vanessa de Almeida 011 781 5970

vanessa@probeauty.co.za

Operations manager Barbara Hocking 011 781 5970

barbara@probeauty.co.za

Marketing manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970

stacey@tetradeevents.com

Social media and marketing Ilia Zolas 011 781 5970

Ilia@probeauty.co.za

Sales admin assistant Obey Dube 011 781 5970

obey@probeauty.co.za

Printers House of Print

marks@lloydgray.co.za

Visit www.probeauty.co.za and follow us on twitter and facebook

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Professional Beauty June 2013

011 474 8750

Opening times: Sunday 1 September 2013: 10am – 6pm Monday 2 September 2013 10am – 5pm

Entrance policy: Professional Beauty is reserved for trade and professional visitors only.

Due to the professional nature of the event, babies and children under 16 cannot be admitted.

Save the date: 1-2 September 2013 Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg

1-2 September johannesburg

2013

Your success is our passion The only event that represents all areas of the beauty industry Find the treatments, exclusive savings, innovations and inspiration you’re looking for Professional Beauty Johannesburg invites you to indulge in two perfect days of business development and networking.

Source money saving solutions and be inspired by imaginative concepts, innovation and thought leading education.

Register for your Free ticket and save the R75 on-site entrance fee.

Register at www.probeauty.co.za and stand a chance of winning an IPAD Mini.

Simply quote your lucky ticket number: BM1

Incorporating:

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aesthetics CONVENTION 2013

2013

2013

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NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Moisturising and hydrating claims becoming increasingly ambitious With weather conditions and stress playing havoc with consumer skincare regimes, beauty products which claim to hydrate and moisturise have never been more in demand.

This is particularly relevant for those of us living in Gauteng where the atmosphere is particularly dry in winter. And new research from Mintel BPC highlights this move towards a first from manufacturers' as 66% of all new products launched globally in the skincare market in 2012 had a moisturising and hydrating claim.

Furthermore, product launches communicating the inclusion of water from oceans, lagoons, seas, glaciers, springs or spas have seen consistent growth in the skincare category since 2009.

Indeed, skincare products that specify the use of water from a particular source grew – 78%

between 2009 and 2012.

Chris Lindsley, Global Skincare Analyst at Mintel, said: “Naturally, water is where many hydrating claims start – but not just any old water. Provenance as well as functionality has become an important feature on pack. Claims regarding water sources are becoming increasingly ambitious, with companies’ descriptions ranging from “wild” to “antique”. Looking to the future, playing with the state of water in skincare products offers innovation for formulators and a splash of sensoriality for consumers,

while water activation also has appeal. The challenge for the future will be to entice consumers with exotic but meaningful stories, while avoiding tipping over into hyperbole and switching them off.”

Furthermore, it appears that new product developments are responding to consumer demand as, according to Mintel’s research, dry skin is one of the key concerns of European women. In the US, over half (52%) of consumers buy facial skincare products to treat or prevent dry skin – rising to 56% of consumers in the UK.

Meanwhile, more than a third (37%) of French women and almost half (48%) of German women use facial skincare products to treat or prevent dry skin. In addition, more than a third of women in France (33%), Germany (37%), Italy (35%) and Spain (39%) use facial skincare to prevent or delay the onset of fine lines and wrinkles, so it’s clear that hydration is crucial for women’s skincare regimes.

According to research group Canadean, specialist men’s make-up could be set to take off in the UK, following the current trend in Asia.

This trend is booming in much of Asia where men’s skincare and make-up combined accounts for 51% of the personal grooming market in India and 41% in China, according to research group Canadean.

Men araound the world still have some way to go, although the fact that men use 22% of make-up and skincare combined in the UK and 23% in the US may already be above expectations.

Beauty trends that originated in Asia, such as beauty balm or “BB” creams, are now popular in the UK. “Men are increasingly concerned about how their looks can affect their career

Pic: www. anythinghollywood.com

Could this growing UK trend move to SA?

prospects. In South Korea for example, the use of make-up by men is seen as a way to improve looks and enhance your career, with companies like Korean Air even holding cosmetics training sessions for male employees,” said the report.

It went on to suggest that popular products in the UK are likely to include acne concealers, stage make-up, as worn by the likes of Tony Blair, and nail polishes for men.

A salon refreshed and revitalised Beautiful Beginnings in Duncan Yard just got a face-lift; the full service salon has been revamped and refreshed. The new-look salon is located in the charming Duncan Yard in the heart of Hatfield, Pretoria. Beautiful Beginnings is a fully equipped beauty salon with an extensive list of services available. From relaxing manicures, pedicures and massages to more intricate Botox, fillers and chemical peels.

Apart from the new look, Beautiful Beginnings is also proud to announce that they are the only salon in the

immediate surrounding area of Hatfield which offers the latest technology in spa treatment – the Pedicure Massage Chair.

“I want to give our clients the ultimate experience both physically and visually. The soft grey walls and selective colour bursts will enhance our clients’ senses and leave them feeling complete relaxed and revitalised.” explains salon owner Illana Otto.

Beautiful Beginnings always strives towards excellence and the make-over reflects that, giving clients only the best visually, physically and mentally.

Professional Beauty June 2013

7

In brief ■ LTI announce new manager: Carli Argirova has been promoted to the role of manager at LTI’s office in Pretoria.

Carli has worked for the company since February of last year. With over seven years of experience in client liaison and customer satisfaction, she will surely be a success in her new role.

■ Moya announces KZN distributor: Moya, the South African range of spa and home products made with Fynbos Essential Oils, is being distributed in KwaZulu- Natal by Elements Beauty Concepts, headed by the very competent, Sonette van Rensburg. Van Rensburg is delighted to have been given the opportunity to promote this quality brand within the region: “We have great plans in store for Moya in KZN. This market is hungry for top quality innovative brands. The advantage of Moya is that it has it all, and is also locally produced, making it more affordable for both business and client.”

■ Ethical ingredient search: The Medicine Hunter Chris Kilham turned his sights on Africa recently to source new ingredients for US company Naturex.

Chris is focusing on sustainable, natural sources that are farmed and harvested in an ethical way, including fair wages for workers.

Some of the ingredients he has looked at recently are green coffee beans and cola nuts. The intention is to produce products that produce enhanced antiaging results, smoother skin and moisturising properties.

Chris is a well-known US TV presenter, author and educator.

He has conducted medicinal research in over 20 countries. As the FOX News Medicine Hunter, Chris’ TV segments and columns reach across USA and International markets. CNN calls Chris “The Indiana Jones of natural medicine.”

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Professional Beauty June 2013

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NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Hitech Lasers receives another International award Hitech Lasers (Pty) Ltd was announced as the winner of the 2012 award as the Lumenis Distributor of the Year, EMEA region (Europe, Middle East and Africa).

This honour was bestowed on the company during an award ceremony held by the manufacturer, Lumenis, in Barcelona, Spain. In 2011, Hitech Lasers received the award for Best Aesthetic Performance for EMEA region and this year it stepped up to win the most prestigious prize as Distributor of the Year from a pool of over 80 distributors.

Every year, Lumenis honours and

celebrates the achievements of their distributors.

What tipped the scales in favour of Hitech Lasers as 2012 winner was its overall achievement in sales increases, the quality training, service and maintenance of all Lumenis systems installed in Southern Africa.

Wicus Olivier, managing director of Hitech Lasers,

Three quarters of consumers at risk using out-of-date sun creams Most people have become vigilant when it comes to applying SPF while out in the sun. However, the lack of knowledge among consumers about out of date sun cream means some could still be at risk of sun damage.

Most sun creams lose their ability to block UV 12 months after purchase, putting users at risk of UV damage and skin cancer.

A survey by online beauty retailers Escentual.com revealed that a staggering 74.3% of people going

abroad on a beach holiday would use sun cream that is over a year old.

It is essential for clients to have in-date sun protection products.

Escentual.com beauty editor Emma Leslie notes, “Most are marked 12M, meaning that the manufacturer recommends that it’s used for only twelve months after purchase." If not, it renders the protection against UV rays lower, and exposure to developing skin cancer higher.

on receiving this award, said: “We are once again very pleased at receiving this award. To be chosen as the best amongst more than 80 distributors is a special honour. Most important, in a very challenging business environment, this award is a seal of approval for the dedication, positivity and loyalty of the Hitech Lasers’ team.”

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BUSINESS

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Solving the mystery Mystery shopping your staff is far from underhand, it’s the best tool you have to improve their skills, writes Hellen Ward.

I’m a bit of a fan of mystery shopping. And to watch and learn from others – but above all to realise no, I don’t mean the £5 limit, Secret Santa that it’s not me telling them but the customers themselves. pressies that you give out in the staff room Some salon owners I talk to worry that their team at Christmas. I mean the fully fledged act won’t like it if they mystery-shop them – they feel like of conducting a mystery shop. Being a secret, pretend they are being disloyal or sneaky. But as long as feedback salon client and giving your verdict on the service you’ve is constructive, and the shopper experienced enough experienced. Our own dear magazine does it as part of its to report back un-biasedly, I think it’s the fairest way to awards judging process – and it’s a good job too! We need ascertain the experience they are offering. to make sure the finalists are coming up with the goods in reality, not just when they roll out the red True experience carpet for an announced judge. we made many, many Sometimes the reluctance to embrace In a profession where we deal with clients mystery shopping means therapists, mistakes but learnt manicurists and salon owners never all day, it’s good to remember what it feels like to be one every now and again. Only experience what they do for a living as a hugely from each personally experiencing something can client. Would Marco Pierre White not eat and every one. really tell you whether the ideal lives up to in restaurants? Would Mary Portas not the reality. The marketing has to befit the look in shop windows? Or course not. But service. We don’t want to over-promise and under-deliver, we in the beauty industry rarely go to salons and spas and so I’m no stranger to getting my mystery shop enthusiasts experience them for ourselves to experience the salon’s team members and services and One therapist I spoke to recently told me she’d never had report back. a treatment at a salon as a customer. How then, can she know what she is offering is right? How can she empathise Customer focus with how a client may feel – intimidated, scared to There are companies that will mystery-shop draw attention to concerns or, worse, ignored? your salon and report back in minute detail.

How can she know what it feels like to get an (Can I get a job there please?) But for me, inferior consultation and therefore recognise its this wouldn’t really work. The best feedback importance? Or to not have her expectations comes from people who are already met? Being a model for others at college and experiencing good service in our brand being a paying punter are totally different from some of our operators and know things. what they should be able to expect from Mystery shopping is not about telling others. They’re the ultimate benchmark, tales. We need to fully understand, and put so I’m not afraid to use the skills of my ourselves in, the position of the client if most critical mystery shopper and we are ever to make inroads into get the full low-down. The crucial improving our customer experience. question: “Would you pay to see You can’t teach a child how to ride a operator x for that service that you bike by showing him an instruction usually experience?” usually tells manual – he has to get on, crash me everything. into the wall, and then learn how We all know, in this peopleto balance through practice. So if orientated business that it is we don’t know how it feels to the quality of your team and be a client, how can we ever their technical skills that will get get it right? people re-booking. And that So, bosses and therapists, quality has to be multi-faceted; don’t be afraid to experience customer service, customer your own staff and also the awareness, technical expertise, competition. Feel like a client attention to detail – all these skills again, and then you’ll get make for a fully booked operator. some clarity on what you So the savvy salon owner looks need to do to improve your to cultivate those skills in other own customer team members. We have to try experience. and replicate, teach and educate And that’s great so other team members can knowledge for all become experts, too. I get them of us. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.

Professional Beauty June 2013

11

Pop Bright Color Acrylic replacing Neon Color Acrylic collection

HOW TO USE IT

Pigments 1/4 oz Mix with acrylics, synergy gels and mani•Q color to make an unlimited amount of pearlescent color combinations.

Contact Head Office on 011 393 2791 for the Distributors number in your area

For more information on distribution opportunities visit us at: Shop 4 1st floor 222 Brickfield Road Overport Durban Tel: (031) 207 3844 or contact Ayesha: 071 146 8393 Rookaya: 082 775 7786

www.facebook.com/etrebelleSA

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What does the consumer want?

Unless you know what your clients (whom we will refer to as 'The Consumer' for this article) want, there is no way you will ever grow your business and keep your clients loyal.

Marisa Dimitriadis elaborates.

Over the last six months we have spoken to over 2000 consumers, here is what they said: 35% said the therapist didn’t convince them of the value they were getting 30% said the therapist didn’t understand their needs 20% said the therapist did not listen 15% said the therapist talked too much

What does the consumer want?

Let’s peek inside their heads! The table above shows the results of a survey we conducted amongst 2000 consumers over the last six months.

This shows up some serious communication problems between clients and therapists and their expectations.

Let’s tackle each problem outlined above individually and try to find some solutions.

Consumer value Most people buy on perceived value. Think about it, if you are going to buy a box of paper and you are offered a box of paper that is more expensive than the one you usually buy, but the paper is biodegradable and 1c per page is going to a charity, >

Professional Beauty June 2013

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BUSINESS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

DON'T ASSUME YOU KNOW WHAT THE CONSUMER WANTS. DON'T ASSUME THE CONSUMER HAS YOUR SPENDING CAPABILITIES. DON'T ASSUME YOU KNOW THE CONSUMER's SPENDING POWER.

you will be more likely to buy that box than the cheaper one. Why? You have more reason to buy it!

Make sure you are giving your client enough value and reasons to buy what you are selling. That means giving them enough information but it also means that you need to understand their needs in order to give them that value. This addresses the second problem, where 30% of buyers expressed that their needs were not understood goes hand in hand with giving them value for their purchases.

Listen If you don’t ask questions you won’t understand your clients’ needs. Then if you don’t listen you still won’t understand your clients’ needs. Targeted and well-planned questions will explore the consumers’ specific needs, and then if you listen carefully and put yourself in their shoes you should be able to clearly understand their needs and solve their problems. From here you can work on a solution that will suit the consumer perfectly.

Focus on the groans and moans of your client! Again, this means listening and repeating back to them, what you hear them say before offering them the solution. This way you show you’ve listened, you show you care and consider their interests, rather than just trying to make a sale.

Understand their needs Ensure you have read the consultation form in full and make reference to what has been written on that form. Again this shows interest and that you have read the papers they have taken time to complete.

Don't talk too much Lastly the issue of talking too much. Try and find the right mix of excitement and enthusiasm. This comes from watching, asking and listening. Pay attention to your clients’ signals and act accordingly.

So don’t babble off for half an hour on one ingredient in a product when all your client wants is a good eye make-up remover. Take care not to talk yourself out of a sale of a product or treatment by over explaining it, so, once again, don’t talk too much.

Why people buy?

W.I.F.M???? What’s In It For Me? – let’s analyse this.

How can I SAVE MONEY. Show them the reasons why they can save money.

How can I SAVE TIME? What STATUS will I get?

PEACE OF MIND. They want to know that buying from you will be hassle-free COST-EFFECTIVE. MAKE ME FEEL HEALTHIER AND GREAT. Consumers need to know that their buying will fulfil this important “feel good” need.

GUARANTEE. Explain how buying from you comes with a guarantee.

The table above gives you a few important pointers about why people buy. If you can satisfy any of these reasons you are well on your way to becoming a star salesperson.

Hopefully you are now better equipped to understand why people buy and what consumers want. If you can keep this in mind at each and every single salespoint then selling will not be an issue in your lives any longer.

Int the next issue we will focus on different ways that are proven to get new customers and keep them loyal.

I leave you with a famous quote we all know but don’t really do much about it. ‘Insanity is doing the same things over and over again and expecting the different results’ Albert Einstein.

I urge you to start doing things differently TODAY! PB

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. Email her at marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za Tel: 011 234 2150

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Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Role of supplementation Dr Gys Du Plessis answers your health, wellness and anti-ageing questions.

I am really confused as to whether I should be taking supplements and also whether I should give them to my family. There are so many articles appearing today claiming exact opposites. Could you provide me with some clarity?

W

e are sitting with an awkward paradox and almost a dilemma today, at a time when we are living on average 50 years more than we did over 120 years ago. In 1890, most women did not even reach 43 years of age, but today the average age is almost 90 years for a European white woman. The predicament we face is that despite getting older, we do not age in a healthy strong way, but instead our last 40 years are mostly plagued with chronic illnesses and conditions.

Some of the many reasons contributing to this are: our modern life stress levels are exceedingly high and we sleep on average two hours per day less than in 1940. To complicate matters even further, we live in an era where we face more than 100 000 toxins which were not around or known of during the 1950s.

To build our hopes on a good diet with a colourful plate of food alone is unfortunately not true anymore. The quality of soil used for growing our vegetables and fruit has become so degraded that in most agricultural areas the nutrient content has fallen by an average of 70%. The excess use of fertilisers binds the little minerals already present, which are so important for our health. Even if we are disciplined and fortunate enough to eat total organic greens, they will still be totally lacking in minerals and micronutrients.

The bottom line is that, unless you have your own organic garden, growing vegetables and fruits with a high mineral content, you are running behind on the intake of nutrients today.

The combined result of these daily deficiencies in nutrients and the extra stressors in the environment causes not only the cells of our bodies to be more directly damaged by the

deficiencies, but they are also more vulnerable to oxidative stress caused by the toxins, high stress levels and the lack of sleep. The oxidative stress is caused by free radicals roaming around in the body leading to inflammation.

What follows is cell destruction and/ or early cell death; just another way of referring to accelerated ageing.

Supplementation with nutraceuticals (supplements and micronutrients) in today’s world is certainly not a nice to have any more. It has become an absolute necessity for our current as well as our future health. The wellknown Recommended Daily Intake (RDA) on foods and supplements indicates the amount necessary to prevent illness, but is way too little for optimum health and healthy ageing measures.

If someone had to ask me what I would recommend for everyone to take, I have a shortlist that I firmly believe will assist with ageing in a healthier way: • A good multivitamin and mineral combination twice daily; • Omega 3 fatty acids ( EPA/DHA) – two capsules of 1000mg at night; • Vitamin C – 1000mg twice per day; • A good anti-oxidant combination that contains Co-Enzyme Q10 and flavanoids like resveratrol.

Ingredients that boost the body’s ability to make its own glutathione, a powerful endogenous anti-oxidant is also very important; • Vitamin D3 ­– 1000 units per day; • A good brain booster with additional B-Vitamins and phospholipids in the morning.

Although there is so much more to be said about this topic and this list is far from being comprehensive, it is a good start for those in your family above 12 years of age.

I will obviously cover aspects of this very important topic in future questions and editions. PB

we live in an era where we face more than 100 000 toxins which were not around or known of during the 1950s.

If you would like to ask Dr Gys du Plessis a question please email the editor at sally@ probeauty.co.za. Sekected questions and answers will be published in the following issue of the magazine.

Dr Gys du Plessis has a keen interest in holistic, integrative and aesthetic medicine. He has founded and led two holistic centres in South Africa and is the medical director for Nimue Bioscience International. To touch base with Dr Gys visit: www.facebook.com/drgys1

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Professional Beauty June 2013

The success of this amazing body wrap is due to a combination of a Swiss formulation anti-cellulite body contouring firming gel and Neoprene bandages. The compression of the bandages and the active ingredients, strengthening, diuretic and stabilising properties of the gel targets the toxins in the adipose fatty tissue, breaks down the fatty tissue by means of absorption by the lymph duct, so that the unwanted fatty tissue finally passes out through the body. The combination of liposomes, strengthening and diuretic properties stabilise and maintain the contour of the body, helping to avoid a spongy appearance, strengthens the tissues and inner organs.

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How fit is your business?

Treat your business like your body and get in shape today!

• As with a healthy, fit body, it takes effort, knowledge and hard work, the same goes for your business, ensure you have a clear understanding of what you need to do to achieve this.

• Attend the International Spa Convention to make sure you have the right skills, knowledge and tools to keep your business fit and healthy. Give your business a workout, book your ticket today.

The International Spa Convention will get to the heart of business by providing practical solutions on profitability, effective operation and marketing.

Spa owners, managers, aestheticians and dermatologists can expand their knowledge base by interacting with beauty product suppliers that are present at Professional Beauty.

Additionally, suppliers focusing on spa will| meet Professional Beauty’s strong audience of spa industry professionals during this event.

Survival of the Fittest nn ov ate ,

2013

1-2 September, Gallagher Convention Centre

net work ,a

pa s r ou nd improve y

ASK YOURSELF: In business, do you want to merely survive or ... do you want more?

L earn how to achieve business growth E xceed client expectations A spire to be the leading industry expert R ejuvenate your spa N etworking at its best Convention targeted at: ✔ Spa owners and directors ✔Senior spa managers ✔Health and fitness operators

✔Architects and consultants ✔Hoteliers ✔Investors

As a delegate you will: • Take home practical ideas to immediately improve your spa operation • Network with leading spa and hotel professionals • Identify new revenue opportunities • Build essential partnerships and relationships

Main sponsor:

Learn h

ow to a

Main sponsor:

2013

da pt , in 1-2 September, Gallagher Convention Centre no va te, net wor k, and spa improve your

Survival of the Fittest How fit is your business?

Programme SUNDAY 1st SEPTEMBER 2013

MONDAY 2 SEPTEMBER 2013

8:00 Registration

9:00 Registration

9:00 Welcome

9:30 Face Lift your Spa

9:15 Keynote Communication - in the new economy the currency is connection Rinus Le Roux - U Can Institute Why does the world have a new ‘currency’? What is changing and why is it changing? How do you learn to connect? The future belongs to those who are willing to risk being real and connected.

10:15 The Top 5 - learn from SA’s best Host: Marisa Dimitriadis - managing director, The Spa Consultants Lindy Knoesen - Skin Sense Day Spa Felicia Boshomane - The Saxon Spa & Studio Yolandi Brits - Professional Skincare Lab Brenda Motlhabi - Touch Spa @ Seasons South Africa’s star retail therapists share their expertise and sales secrets.

10:45 TEA/COFFEE 11:15 Is your Website making you Money?

Host: Francisco Garcia - spa director, Arabella Hotel & Spa Neil Orvay - co-founder of Sense of Touch, Hong Kong Marisa Dimitriadis - managing director, The Spa Consultants Is your salon/spa in need of a makeover? Need to get with the times and create a space that not only attracts but keeps consumers there and makes a memory. This session looks at a few of the latest floor finishes, wall finishes, soft finishes and décor for spa and salon.

10:30 Top 10 Aromatherapy Oils Charlene Weidner - industry consultant Top 10 oils you should have in your spa, how to mix them and how they can be used from welcome rituals to hot compresses.

11:00 TEA AND SNACKS

Ashton Hayes - director of Add-on Connect the dots to greater business success. Move from a fragmented website and social media approach to an integrated solution. Are your websites, social media pages and campaigns working as hard as they could be? Ashton will be speaking about the importance of a focused digital strategy and various techniques to help you unlock your brands full online potential.

11:30 Performance Manage Your Staff

12:00 Healthy Life, Healthy Spa

Francisco Garcia - spa director, Arabella Hotel & Spa Alison Wrightford - CEO, Sanctuary Group Keryn Hayes - owner, Skin Sense Neil Orvay - co-founder, Sense of Touch, Hong Kong Experiences to learn from – those situations we don’t always talk about and how others have taken control.

Dr Anton - to be confirmed

12:30 – 14:30 LUNCH AND EXHIBITION 14:30 International Keynote Address: taking a closer look at Persuasion Psychology when dealing with clients Neil Orvay - co-founder of Sense of Touch – an Asian spa and wellness company, Hong Kong.

Based on the research of Dr. Robert Cialdini, one of the world’s foremost authorities on Persuasion and Influence Psychology, Neil delivers logical and sound reasoning to persuasive success factors which we ‘ordinary people’ often overlook as mundane everyday social interactions.

15:15 Rewards, Memberships and Loyalty Programmes Host: Francisco Garcia, spa director, Arabella Hotel & Spa Ian Fuhr - founder and CEO of the Sorbet Group Neil Orvay - co-founder of Sense of Touch, Hong Kong An interesting look at how these experts have successfully and sustainably introduced rewards and loyalty programmes in their businesses.

16:15 TEA AND CLOSE

Ulundi Behrtel - private legal consultant in SA healthcare industry Covering the dos and absolute don’ts of managing your staff’s performance.

12:00 Secrets that Everyone Knows

13:00 LUNCH AND EXHIBITION

*Topics and speakers are subject to change Seating is limited.

Book early to avoid disappointment.

For more information and speaker profiles, visit

www.probeauty.co.za

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The principles of persuasion Professional Beauty is delighted to have secured internationally acclaimed spa expert Neil Orvey, co-founder of Sense of Touch – an Asian spa and wellness company in Hong Kong, to talk at its International Spa Convention in Johannesburg, Gallagher Estate on Sept 1 and 2.

Sally Harvey finds out more about Neil and what he has in store for us at the event.

Neil Orvey – Q & A What is your greatest accomplishment?

Outside of being very proud of my family, the single accomplishment of which I am most proud without a doubt is completing the Gobi March, a 250km ultra marathon across the Gobi desert in 2011. I raised over $20 000, which was sufficient to build a new school in an impoverished part of Nepal. It was completed in March this year and is now being used by 125 children.

Throughout your years of experience in the field what have you learnt?

I don’t know where to start, there is so much, but if I was to choose three pointers they would be: firstly, never lose sight of your vision and be true to your values – many businesses get it wrong here and chase the wrong goal, which was never how or why they started. Secondly, always pay attention to the customer’s needs but not at the expense of your business principles: there is a time when, firmly but respectfully, you should say ‘No’. Finally, you always need to watch the market and stay a step ahead, never rest on your laurels – I don’t mean that you should have an obsessive focus on competitors, but you need to know what’s happening in the market, the new trends and where the next revenue line will come from – in business you must constantly evolve.

If you had the opportunity what would you do differently or see changed in the industry?

I have made as many mistakes

as the next entrepreneur and they have all cost money and time, for example in 2007, when I tried to go into product distribution and got it totally wrong. I don’t think I’d change that though, it’s part of the learning process and the mistakes I’ve made have probably helped me get other (hopefully bigger decisions) right. On balance, when I look at where my business is today I figure I’ve got more right than wrong, so I don’t lose sleep over the mistakes or what I should have done differently.

If you had to give advice to a spa owner what three key points would you highlight?

Location is absolutely # 1, next a well-researched choice of professional spa brand that also retails well, and, thirdly, a constant focus on marketing – without it you die.

Can you provide us with a sneak preview of what you will be covering in your opening address at the Professional Beauty International Spa Convention in South Africa and how it can benefit spa business?

One of my passions is business psychology. I am a trainer in neuro-linguistic programming and have developed training in communication skills, negotiation theory, influencing and sales psychology, personal empowerment and personality profiling. I spend about 50% of my working time training major multinationals and financial institutions on the applications of business psychology in the workplace. In my address I shall be focusing on the underlying principles of persuasion and how they impact the spa

“Never lose sight of your vision and be true to your values.” environment from both the therapist’s and client’s side. I have taught all my teams these

techniques and personally find them very useful in my business interactions. PB

Biography Neil started his career as an investment banker in 1990 and spent 13 years at the forefront of capital markets.

In October 2002, he co-founded Sense of Touch, a boutique day spa on Hollywood Road in Hong Kong. After 10 years of operation and multiple international and regional awards, Sense of Touch now has seven branches in Hong Kong and Shanghai, employing approximately 100 staff and a customer base of over 20 000 expatriate and local professionals In January 2010 Neil launched Capelli, a boutique designer hair salon in Repulse Bay, and in 2011 he added Fast Beauty, a new concept in time-efficient, results-driven beauty treatments.

Neil is a regular on the Hong Kong and international presentation circuit. He has presented at the Global Spa Summit, Professional Spa Congress, and Spa China Congress and Professional Spa & Wellness Convention.

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SPA REVIEW

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Luxury Spa, luxurious experience Soulstice Day Spa is situated at the Silver Star Casino near Muldersdrift. A brand new luxury facility that also boasts a brand new luxury spa. Sally Harvey investigates what makes this spa stand out from the crowd.

T

heir web site boasts of ‘lavish pampering’ and the spa is certainly well equipped to fulfil that claim.

Their philosophy is very much to always put themselves in the position of the client, to see and feel the experiences of the client. To anticipate their expectations and ensure that these are fulfilled. To then always strive to improve on the level of treatment given and continue to maintain the highest level of service, helping to improve the client's experience at all times. After each treatment, spend a little time reviewing it, to ensure

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standards are always preserved.

The spa has a great range of facilities which are set in lovely relaxing areas and they cater for men as well as women. Couples are well catered for too. Certainly the spa is very keen to promote the feeling of informal enjoyment for clients and recognises that many couples wish to enjoy the experiences together. The steam room is unisex, they have treatment rooms for couples, there is a spa bath big enough for two. The Rasul chamber is also ideal for couples and then there is the indoor water lounger, mosaic chairs, continuously running with

warm water. The outdoor heated pool, the indoor heated pool with Swiss showers. Oh, and not forgetting the flotation pool too. However, if you are on your own, you will be able to relax and enjoy your own space and solace, there is a purpose-built relaxation area ideal for quiet reflection and contemplation.

The treatments offered are wide and varied from hand and foot care to their own unique signature treatments.

Product range is comprehensive, Optiphi, Dermalogica, La Prairie, Thalgo, Mama Mio and OPI. The Thai massage is a favourite amongst clients

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SPA REVIEW

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and is a treatment with a difference.

As well as the traditional spa style treatmenst you can have your legs waxed and your eyelashes extended, all helping you to look and feel great.

The signature treatments are as luxurious as you would expect from a facility like this. Inspired and named after the ancient Sun Goddess of Wellness, the Soulstice Sulis range of signature treatments adhere to the philosophy preached by Sulis: “Take time to restore yourself” Attention to detail is key to the running of this spa and this manifests itself in so many ways. There is colour therapy for clients; you can choose to have your own music during your treatment; the room temperature is client specific; if you have a manicure they provide heated booties to keep your feet warm. You can even have a Pilates session to loosen up stiff joints

and muscles, this can be one on one or up to a group of three.

To keep an operation such as this profitable requires a good mix of business management, promotion and, as always, attention to detail. The spa has been promoted on radio, M-Net and in the press with different promotions featured every month. Email and SMS campaigns alert those on the spas database as to any new and exciting developments. Most of the visitors to the spa are not guests from the hotel, coming from all over Gauteng and other regions of South Africa and the spa is currently enjoying up to 70% repeat business. The Spas of Distinction group is one of the fastest growing in South Africa and intend to open another two spas in the near future. PB

Contact: 011 662 7500

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SALON REVIEW

online at www.probeauty.co.za

All day wax on, wax off In the quiet Johannesburg suburb of Emmarentia there is a salon with a unique focus within the beauty industry.

The Brazilian Boutique does waxing, all day, every day...just waxing. Kim Dimevski tells Professional Beauty more about her very special concept.

When did you open?

I ran my business from a house in Greenside from 2011, where my mum is actually a beauty therapist doing facials, but does not do waxing. I have now recently moved to this shopping centre in Emmarentia.

How did you come up with the concept?

I wanted a waxing only salon; firstly as there are none, and I think if you concentrate on one type of therapy, i.e. waxing, you will be giving 100% into it.

When you only do waxing, all day every day, you can only end up being great at it. Practice makes perfect.

Secondly, there is a need for salons that offer waxing treatments for men, not many salons do.

Men and women are welcome and if you have children, they can use the special waiting area.

What is your background and reason for opening this salon?

I studied waxing at Helia-D, and took specialist Brazilian training too. I just really love waxing! .

What is your percentage of female versus male clients?

I have probably 80% male clients. I wanted to create a waxing studio that men specifically would be comfortable coming to because of this huge need for men’s waxing.

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Professional Beauty June 2013

How many rooms and staff do you have?

I have one large room, with a changing corner and best of all, a TV corner for clients to watch while being waxed. It really does help to relax! I am the only therapist who waxes at the moment, but I hope to take on another specialist very soon.

Tell me a bit more about the training aspect?

The training is on Brazilian waxing only, for men and woman. This started because of the amount of horror stories I have heard from clients about Brazilian waxes they have had in the past, it could make your toes curl! Every single therapist at every single salon and spa should do specific Brazilian waxing training. Even as a refresher. Just because you know how to wax, it does not mean you can do Brazilians, or at least a good Brazilian!

It is a very different way to wax, and really should be taught separately from normal body waxing. Therapists also need to learn that waxing men is ok! They are not going to bite. It is so important to actually see demos of male and female Brazilian waxes too. If therapists are not given the chance to see a male Brazilian wax and learn the best way to do this, how must they do them in the salons?

I train up to four people at a time here at the salon, this means that they all get

focused training and can see the demos perfectly. They can also then ask as many questions as they need. I do go to salons to do training for staff of more than four.

Each participant gets an attendance certificate, which is great to keep in the salon for clients to see.

What are your plans for the future?

My plans are to employ a therapist for the Emmarentia studio, and open ‘franchise’ studios in other areas, firstly Cape Town and Durban. I have a client who comes up from Durban once a month for her waxing treatments because nobody there concentrates on just waxing. I think there is a huge gap for male waxing, and I want to be the one to fill that gap. PB

Contact: 084 808 9288

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UNUSUAL THERAPIES

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Turning heads It seems like the stranger the things out there these days, the greater the following.

This is certainly becoming true of beauty therapies around the globe.

Sally Harvey investigates weird and wonderful therapies that are gaining notable attention.

Touch of gold

Bird-poo facial Praised by Japanese geishas and Kabuki actors for its brightening, cleansing and restorative properties, Nightingale poo is gaining popularity in Western society. The excrement goes through a special process before it is applied to the face, being dried, sanitised with UV light and crushed into a powder that is mixed with rice bran to neutralise any odours. The poo contains natural enzymes which are effective in breaking down dead skin cells and cleansing the skin.

Caviar facial There are those who believe that putting sturgeon eggs on your face rivals Botox in its anti-ageing benefits.

Caviar is rich in amino acids, vitamins and antioxidants, which moisturises the skin, helps repair sun damage and softens the appearance of wrinkles.

It is, however, not the edible fishy version that gets smeared on the face, but rather professional treatments created from concentrated caviar extracts. >

Revered for its rarity and expense, gold has since been found to have a number of therapeutic benefits: stimulating collagen production, boosting blood flow and tightening and toning the face. The 24-carat gold facial, said to be originated

by UMO, uses Gamma PGA, a soybeanderived hydrating compound, and a special mist delivery system to effectively infuse the gold into the skin. Others apply fine pieces of gold leaf to the face and massage it into the skin; you can apparently have your whole body painted in gold to aid cellulite and prevent ageing, and then there are serums and creams that can be applied that contain gold dust or flakes. After the treatment the client is also left with a glittering glow.

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UNUSUAL THERAPIES

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On ice From artic ice rooms with floating snowflakes to whole body cryotherapy (WBC) chambers, ice fountains and freezing cold waters, the chill factor has long been known in spas for its ability to kick-start the immune system, leaving one feeling healthier and exhilarated, not to mention looking more radiant.

But, can you handle the chill? The WBC, which is brilliant for soothing aching muscles and brains and treating chronic inflammatory conditions, features temperatures between -80ËšC and -120ËšC.

Body-whitening spray Hula Nails salon in the East End of London offers a whitening spray to turn the skin to a delicate shade of porcelain for a night out.

Bee-venom mask Popular with royalty such as Kate Middleton and the Duchess of Cornwall, this mask combines bee venom with nutrient-rich manuka honey to help tighten facial tone and smooth wrinkles.

Cupping This ancient Eastern practice involves placing cups along the back to create suction where chi energy is stagnant. By balancing the energy this therapy is believed to help boost

Placenta facial Lamb placental extract is used as a potent anti-ageing treatment, rich in nutrients and bio-stimulants to revitalise and moisturise.

circulation, draw toxins from the body, strengthen immunity and improve overall healing.

The fire-cupping version involves glass cups being heated over a flame and stuck to the skin, thus causing a vacuum. This procedure aids numerous body ailments

and concerns. The only downfall is the temporary ring marks one might experience depending on the toxin build-up in the body.

Going reptile

Pic: http://avaxnews.net/pictures/6550

This treatment involves applying a thin layer of real snakeskin (ethically sourced) on the nails before curing a UV coating on top.

Snake massage Want to relieve back tension and stress?

A spa service in Israel uses real nonvenomous snakes to massage the back.

The larger ones tackle tougher knots while the smaller varieties provide a lighter touch.

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UNUSUAL THERAPIES

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Fish pedicure Society has found a new purpose for the Garra rufa fish, commonly known as the doctor fish.

These tiny carp are being used during a pedicure treatment to feed off dead skin on the feet. This nibbling action lasts up to 30 minutes and is known to have a ticklish and tingling sensation. The fish have no teeth, so they gently suck off the dead or damaged skin. Full body treatments are also being reported, whereby the fish help relieve dryness, roughness and skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. Some places have banned the practice due to sanitary concerns.

Hay body wrap Originating in Italy this treatment places the client on a water bed heated to over 100˚F while wrapped in hay.

This is said to strengthen immunity and stimulate the metabolism.

There is now a facial specifically designed for the buttocks. It tones, de-blemishes, massages and polishes, and can even include a treatment of micro-current to lift, firm and target cellulite.

Alcohol soak The Yunessun Spa in Japan features a tub of wine where one can indulge in an anti-ageing soak, said to reverse sun damage and promote firmer skin. Wine’s antioxidants, called polyphenols, the alcohol itself and the compound resveratrol have been touted to help improve circulation, even skin tone and brighten dull skin. There are even claims that it might alleviate stress, anxiety, and headaches.

In fact, wine facials are gaining in popularity worldwide as a result of these benefits. The wine is typically mixed with a medium before being massaged into the skin.

The Yunessan spa also boasts a giant bath full of sake, as well as tubs of green tea, coffee or the ramenthemed baths (shaped like ramen bowls with imitation noodles) - take your pick. What about beer? From ale baths to pedicure soaks, the beer’s hops act as a natural exfoliant and the yeast is believed to be full of vitamins.

And if the beer soak is heated up to the

Oxygen facial right temperature, toxins can naturally be released for improved health.

Cactus massage Bar the spiky bits, the cactus leaf is used as a massage instrument, aiding with drawing out the toxins, while assisting with the penetration of its hydrating cactus meringue and cactus blossom into the skin.

An oxygen facial requires a machine that directs small sprays of highly pressurised medical-grade oxygen. This spray is used to apply moisturisers such as hyaluronic acid to the face in order to speed up their absorption. According to proponents, this technique results in skin that is immediately plumper, smoother and well-hydrated. >

Pic: au.businessinsider.com

Butt facial

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True gem Gemstones are now being used for facials due to the healing properties of their energy. The placement is dependent on the philosophy behind the treatment, whether colour therapy, astrology, Ayurvedic medicine or the concept of chakras.

gums to prevent an overexposed smile, pectoral muscles to perk the breasts, and underarms and hands to prevent sweating.

Chocolate decadence Chocolate has become a beauty indulgence at many spas and salon throughout the globe. The spa at the Hotel Hershey in Hershey, Pennsylvania, (a city known for chocolate) offers everything chocolate from baths, sugar scrubs and body polishes to massages and wraps. Chocolate is said help reduce signs of ageing in the skin with antioxidant, epicatechin, and a combination of vitamins and minerals, such as iron, potassium and magnesium. The cocoa butter is also said to be a good moisturiser, and its scent can raise serotonin levels in the brain.

Blood suckers Actress Demi Moore swears by this detoxifying treatment. But not any old leeches will do. You need a special medical kind that, while they are sucking blood, release enzymes into your blood that have a therapeutic effect on toxic blood clots, thus purifying and detoxifying for improved health. You bleed for quite a bit – once attached, a leech can suck approximately 10ml of blood in approximately 30 minutes to an hour after which it automatically detaches from the body of the host.

The technique is drawn from ancient Ayurvedic scriptures and has been a stronghold of Indian village medicine for centuries.

Perianal bleaching Those who are concerned the darkening of the perineum with age can now go and bleach it. This

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Vajazzled is starting to become as regular an occurrence as a bikini wax.

Botox it all In Hollywood Botox is being injected into anything from heels to numb the pain from wearing sky-high stilettos,

Down-there décor designed from Swarovski crystals is hot news for Brazilian waxing babes. And for those who like to spruce up their hair below the belt there are colour dyes to cover the grey or add a bit of fun with bright hues and stencils. PB

Vampire facial Practitioners extract a small amount of the patient’s blood, spin it in a centrifuge, combine it with platelet-rich plasma, and then inject it back into the patient’s face to improve the skin’s youthfulness. It also has been known to diminish imperfections caused by ageing and acne.

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Visible Results It is Dr. Gobac’s philosophy to use only the best, most biotechnologically advanced ingredients available globally.

Ursula Wong experiences the anti-ageing facial.

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was eager to see if it would deliver on its advertising payoff line: ‘Expect Visible Results.’ “Understanding the aspects of ageing skin will enable one to take better care of it,” says Charlene Coussens, Dr Gobac's Head of Training.

“Among many things that start to change, the adhesion between epidermal cells and the basal membrane starts to decrease from age of 30. This loss of contact is related to the structural and functional changes associated with aging.”

The philosophy While eye make-up remover is applied and followed up by Dr Gobac Wash, she tells me that Dr. Robert Gobac is a medical doctor with a background in acupuncture, Traditional Chinese Medicine and Naturopathy. His belief is that it is possible to stimulate self-repair mechanisms of the skin just as in any other organ in the human body. Drawing on extensive experience and research, he developed a non-invasive, non-aggressive but effective skincare treatments that facilitate this healing process.

Charlene says that salon owners who are on the lookout for a professional brand are bowled over with results after experiencing the treatment first-hand.

They realise the benefits for their clients and indeed, the owner of Pinnacurl Pamper, Chantele is a convert who enthusiastically told me of the benefits to her skin.

The key ingredient of Dr Gobac's range is the biotechnologically advanced 10-Hexapeptide, “In the first place hexapeptide stimulates the synthesis

of Laminin-5, precursor of collagen.

Laminin-5 synthesis has been proved to decrease in aged skin. This causes a loss of contact between the dermis and epidermis, reduced collagen production, and results in the skin losing elasticity and becoming saggy.”

Secondly, the 10-hexapeptide increases skin cell proliferation and adhesion, and induces a significant increase in the dermis density.” explains Charlene.

Tingling times An Enzymatic Exfoliant Mask is applied and while that worked, I experienced a tingling, almost ice sting sensation, that soon calmed down. “This form of exfoliation is a mild but effective alternative to alpha hydroxy acids. Dead skin cells are naturally eliminated ensuring a smooth skin surface and gently stimulates cell renewal.” says Charlene After 10 minutes, the mask is not removed but incorporated into the massage step.

Dr. Gobac Massage Cream has high spreadibilty, it is a non-irritant, non-greasy, light moisturising massage cream.

After enquiring if I have any metal implants which are contra-indicated for use with a galvanic device, we are ready for the next stage. Dr. Gobac Treatment Gel is applied prior to the galvanic treatment which assists penetration of products deeper into the skin. I felt just a light buzzing. The gel has active ingredients which relax the facial expression muscles,

help plump up the skin, nourish and feed the cells leaving the skin with a more hydrated, firmer feel.

Next up is the Vitamin A serum which is specifically formulated to remobilise the skin’s own healing mechanism and is ideal for use after the age of 35.

A light spritz of Dr. Gobac Balancing Mist is then administered to facilitate secondary absorption.

To further aid in prolonging the effects of the anti-ageing facial, Dr. Gobac Biorestore is applied. The slowreleasing cocktail of antioxidants assists in increasing hypodermic tissue thickness Because I had a lot of spots around the chin, caused by fluctuating hormones, Charlene applied Spot Treatment Gel before the final step. The application of Dr Gobac Day Balance Cream completes the treatment. “This complex formulation is carefully balanced to rehabilitate the skin deep down. Importantly, the product contains phyto-hormones found in the various herbal extracts. These stimulate and revive skin cells without causing the adverse effects possible with synthetic hormones.” says Charlene.

Was I rewarded with visible results?

Absolutely. PB

Contact: Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals on 011 784 2422 or email: info@drgobac.co.za

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Face Fit We all try to take such great care of our faces, after all, whoever you are talking to, will always look at you and make their own judgements about you, your lifestyle and how well you look after your skin. Sally Harvey experiences a full facial workout.

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ama Mio has introduced a new facial treatment with a unique home exercise programme to help clients to get the most from the facial treatment The main differences in the treatment are that the movements have been specifically developed to stimulate facial muscles in a different way to the classic facial moves. Secondly the home excercises or Nexercises.

You first lie on your front, the therapist will then massage your neck and shoulders, this helps to increase circulation. Following this you lie on your back and receive a deep facial cleansing using the ‘Clean Slate’ product, this has the benefits of Mandarin/Chamomile and Lavender listed amongst its ingredients.

This is followed by the application of the HA Vitamin C Massage Serum. This is applied, as mentioned with different movements to the normal steps for

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a facial and Mama Mio call this The Massage Workout. The Massage Serum’s main components are Hyaluronic Acid and Glycerin with organic Aloe Vera leaf juice plus vitamin C. There is also the application of Nexercise, this is concentrated in the neck area which is quite vigorous in its application, but not at all unpleasant.

The third stage of the treatment is the face mask, again the main ingredients are Aloe Vera leaf juice and Hyaluronic Acid to plump up the thirsty skin, also with powerful oxygenating ingredients. The eye compress is applied at this point and as you relax with the coolness of these products your therapist gives you a nice relaxing foot massage.

Following the treatment your therapist will give you suggestions on the homeuse products, but also talk you through the facial Nexercises, a combination of facial expressions assisted with pulling

techniques using your fingers. This is designed to keep up the good work that you enjoyed during the facial.

I was told to expect a fantastic facial workout and wondered if I should have changed into a track suit first. However I need not have worried, the treatment was very relaxing and left my skin looking radiant and healthy. The treatment for me, was excellent and I appreciated the time spent on both my neck and eyes coupled with the great products used.

And yes I also felt good afterwards in the way you do after a good workout at the gym, happy, content and my skin really did feel like it had a pleasant work out. PB

Contact: Mama Mio on 011 033 0500 or email: mamamio@poisebrands.co.za

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Book your treatment on +27 11 809 6378

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Clarins Triptic Face Treatment Everyone knows that Clarins is synonymous with quality products and stylish presentation. Sally Harvey experiences the Triptic Face Treatment.

F

ollowing my completion of the client record sheet, my therapist explained the process to me. There are a total of nine different facials in order to be able to provide the best products to suit your individual needs. The therapist asked a number of specific questions during the consultation in order to ascertain which treatment is best for me. The therapist then combinedthe appropriate ingredients to create the ideal ‘Serum’ best suited for my skin.

I was there for the anti-aging facial, however my therapist identified the fact that my skin was also very dry, so she added some additional constituents to help moisturise my skin.

Following the consultation, I then enjoyed the Clarins Ritual Welcome which consists of a soothing and calming hand and foot massage combined with deep breathing of a preparation of Chamomile and Basil which helps you fully relax

before the treatment commenced.

Much about the treatment is all about feeling cossetted and comforted. For instance you are wrapped in a heated blanket to keep you warm, cocooned in warmth. The therapist always seems to be in touch with your skin, constantly maintaining a sense of contact and connection. This really does give you a feeling of wellbeing and a sense of security and comfort.

The first part of the treatment is the deep cleanse and exfoliation, this prepares the skin for the absorption phase and is called the Eau Dynamisante and is a clay product combined with a glycolic peel and is applied to the face.

This ensures the removal of all dead cells from the skin.

This is then followed by lymphatic drainage movement to for a brighter appearance to the skin and again, as this is performed, the therapist never loses contact with your skin.

Next comes the absorption phase, this is the part where your skin is treated with the product that your therapist decided would suit you best after the consultation. The therapist uses special Clarins techniques developed to improve penetration, facial contouring and remodelling of the facial features. This also includes a complete relaxation treat of a face, neck and shoulder massage which was really welcome.

The final phase is what Clarins calls the optimisation phase, this includes the application of serum and a day cream and sun screen followed by in-depth, practical advice about home skin care and the products best suited for my skin.

All in all a great concept with some unique twists that left my face feeling invigorated and looking radiant. PB

Contact: Clarins 011 809 6378

Professional Beauty June 2013

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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY DURBAN

2013 durban

What an Event...

After several years at Sibaya Casino north of Durban, Professional Beauty returned to the ICC in the heart of the city. This was a move that filled us with trepidation, would the visitors come, was the change too much for the industry?

W

e need not have fretted, the visitors came, the exhibitors were happy and a great experience was had by all concerned.

There was certainly lots for the visitor to see. From equipment and skincare to nail products and haircare, Professional Beauty Durban had it all.

The exhibitors reported good business across the board whether they were selling high end laser equipment or make-up. Overall, business was brisk.

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Professional Beauty Network KZN In addition to the exhibitors we also created a lounge and seminar area for the KZN Professional Beauty Network.

We were exceptionally pleased by the fantastic response and number of visitors we had through The Professional Beauty VIP network lounge in KZN, with its interactive zones which proved to be a great success.

The lounge area consisted of the ‘Relaxation Zone,’ an area furnished with easy chairs and couches, topped off with a bar. This was great for network members to relax and enjoy a cocktail and a snack.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY DURBAN

“I must compliment the organisation & staff of Professional Beauty on their hard work and willingness to assist all the exhibitors, in order to produce a great exhibition. They were very accommodating and more than willing to help in any way possible.

Congratulations to all.”

Steve Hanwell Lamprobe

The 40-seater, educational seminar zone was next door and proved to be a great hit creating a wonderful platform as well as the opportunity for beauty professionals to be enlightened with up to date information; with educational talks presented by well know experts in their field, such as Karen Ellithorne of Aesthetimed, Adele Visser of the Cosmetics Export Council of South Africa (CECOSA), Vaughan Owgan of Salon Management Systems, Michelle Arde of KZN Cosmetology, Vivienne Venter of Carbon Black Image and Roxanne Krause of Footstamp Promotions.

Snacks and delicious Collisons cocktails were enjoyed by all, while networking with like-minded professionals in the cool network Chill-Out Zone. The network lounge also assisted in encouraging more people to join as members of an exciting and growing group of >

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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY DURBAN

online at www.probeauty.co.za

2013 durban “Our first show at Professional Beauty was an amazing success. I had lots of interest and so glad that I came. I am sincerely looking forward to Professional Beauty Johannesburg.

I was made to feel like I had support whenever I needed it and truly felt like a part of the Professional Beauty family. I am looking forward to many more.”

Aron Collins, Jessica Cosmetics International

“As always, Professional Beauty offers us the opportunity to create brand awareness amongst new and existing clients.

It is the right platform to inform the industry about our new and exciting developments as well as meet the right people.”

Sharon, RegimA

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Professional Beauty June 2013

“Professional Beauty Durban was highly beneficial for us.

The quality of visitors was of a higher standard.”

Bronwyn Da Costa, American Piercing Systems

professionals. We look forward to the continuous growth of the Professional Beauty Network, to assist in uplifting the beauty industry. Our thanks go to Sonette van Rensberg and Michelle Arde for organising both the lounge and education seminars. A further thanks to the sponsors: Function Decor, and Collisons.

The all new ‘Emerging Brands Zone’ For some time now we at Professional Beauty have been wanting to find a way for new and emerging brands to exhibit at our exhibitions. The deal being that if you are just starting out with a new idea

or brand which has not been exhibited at Professional Beauty before you will be entitled to take a stand in the Emerging Brands Zone. This is the ideal platform to meet prospective clients and sell your products to the industry.

You get space to display showcase your products and also display your marketing material. This area is heavily discounted by us and could be the springboard your new business needs.

The feedback from those who took part was extremely positive.

If you would like to be part of the Emerging Brands Zone for the Johannesburg Expo, please contact us on 011 781 5970. PB

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY DURBAN

the global leader in eyelash extensions

“It was a really great show. Venue allowed for better quality visitors and the product demand far exceeded my expectations.”

Gerald Cloete, Brazilian Blow Dry / Hair Go Straight

The Xtreme Lashes 2-Day Training Workshop • Our exclusive programme is designed and created by Xtreme Lashes, USA, to promote full comprehension of the eyelash extension concepts and techniques.

• Xtreme Lashes Eyelash Extensions are for professional use only • We are the preferred choice of celebrities, the press, media and consumers worldwide.

For further information, contact: Penny: 082 312 0564 info@xtremelashes.co.za www.xtremelashes.co.za Professional Beauty June 2013

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PRODUCT FOCUS – HAND CREAMS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Close at hand Whether a gift, add-on treat or must-have, hand creams should be an item in everyone’s handbag. There is no time like now to move these items off your display shelves.

Professional Beauty highlights what’s on offer.

Ahava Mineral Hand Cream is part of the Dead Sea Water line, which is exceptionally rich in skin-healthy minerals that are essential to maintain healthy, supple, wellhydrated hands. It also contains Osmoter to elevate the skin’s moisture level, glycerine to prevent dehydration, witchhazel extract to smooth the skin’s texture and allantoin to soften dry, cracked skin.

011 315 1766

Babor HSR lifting extra-firming hand cream contains HSR Lifting Integral Complex which reduces wrinkles and has a firming effect.

Mangosteen fruit extract with a high percentage of flavonoids, alkaloids and xanthones promotes lipid storage in the tissue and thus palpably improves the thickness of the skin. In addition, daisy extract lightens age spots.

011 467 0110

Skin Doctors Younger Hands contains five clinically proven actives for dramatic anti-ageing results – skin is visibly plumper with improved thickness and texture, there is a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, with the appearance depth and roughness reduced by more than half in 28 days.

The skin is also resurfaced, hydrated, softened and protected with SPF15, while age spots and freckles are visibly lightened.

011 486 4904

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Professional Beauty June 2013

Gatineau Vitamina Suractivee Hand Cream fights the effects of atmosphere extremes, water and pollution. It helps fight free-radicals and stimulates cellular renewal thanks to Vitamins A and E. A glucosederived skin-softening complex specially formulated for Gatineau’s body range, intensely moisturises the hands and cuticles.

021 701 2900

For a particularly long-lasting silky soft experience it is recommended that the LCN Spa Goa Hand Serum is applied underneath the gentle protective film of the Spa Goa Hand Cream. The serum, which contains herbal squalene to soften and protect the skin against free radicals, is absorbed quickly, and, according to the skin type, can be also be used on its own.

087 751 0410

Î

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Thalgo Youthful Hand Cream is enriched with hydrating marine actives. Amongst these is Mirual, an active algae extract which even when exposed to extreme climatic conditions (sunshine, thermal shocks, osmotic pressure) maintains a perfect hydration level. It therefore protects the skin against irritation, while nurturing, softening and helping to diminish the signs of cutaneous ageing.

011 880 3850

PRODUCT FOCUS – HAND CREAMS

Spalicious Skincare Silky Soft Hand Therapy contains Aqualance, which reveals and improvement of moisture on the skin surface by 34% and hydration in skin cells by 37%. It also features RevitElix, plant-derived Omega 3, 6 and 9 which increases collagen, regenerates dermal structure, targets wrinkles, increases elasticity and boosts skin protection.

011 312 7840

NSI Nurture Lotion helps keep hands smooth, healthy and young with two key ingredients: jojoba oil, which is extremely moisturising and soothing to the skin, and grape seed oil, which is perfect for dry stressed tissues, possessing regenerative and restructuring qualities which allow better control of the skin’s moisture retention.

086 111 2222

Dermalogica Multivitamin hand and nail treatment contains botanicals and vitamins to protect and repair chapped hands while strengthening nails against splitting and peeling. It is rich in antioxidants to help defend hands against environmental damage, soothe and calm the skin and reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, and also includes AgeSmart actives to help control skin ageing at the source.

011 268 0018

Spa & Salon Solutions Hand and Body Balm is a deep penetrating honey and milk formulation with added African actives of Shea Butter and Marula oil for long-lasting hydration. It provides comfort for dry, chapped skin, leaving hands soft, smooth and youthful.

011 784 0376

Clarins Hand and Nail Treatment Cream contains Sesame Oil extracts to moisturise and protect against free radicals; Shea Butter unsaponifiables to protect against environmental aggressions and revitalise the skin; Japanese Mulberry extract to help reduce existing age spots; and Condurango Bark extract to help prevent damp palms. The formulation also contains myrrh to strengthen nails.

011 809 6300

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NAILS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Techno for Talons Many questions are being raised lately around the safety of nail polishes and the ingredients that are found in them.

Sonette van Rensberg takes a look at the chemistry and technology behind what makes up a nail polish.

W

omen are in the constant pursuit of polished perfection, in the latest and hottest knockout colour to compliment and complete her outfit and look!

It is not just about the colour but it is also vitally important that polishes have certain properties and features. These being, full coverage, chip-resistant, offer extended wear, superior shine and an overall flawless finish.

Consumers using nail polish brands these days are far more aware of what they are using, they are also well informed as to what is available and what ingredients they think should and should not be in nail polishes, looking for reputable professional brands that are not just on trend but effective to use.

Many questions are being raised lately around the safety of nail polishes and the ingredients that are found in them. Is there Formaldehyde, Toluene or Dibutyl phthalate in the product?

What goes into professional nail polishes?

Intensive research and development goes into producing a quality product, with ingredients being tested for performance, and safety, plus feedback from nail technicians and consumers, in order to set themselves apart from the competition.

Producing the perfect polish that has a unique selling point for their brand is what will inevitably sell and market their product effectively, whether it is because of their colour range, ingredients or both.

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Do most professional nail polish brands contain the same ingredients?

Mostly they do, however each manufacturer differs in the quantities of ingredients and solvents they add to their product. These ingredients have been used by nail polish brands for decades now. The same primary ingredients are used in most base and topcoats with the exception of clays and pigments.

Are nail polishes Safe?

Certain ingredients are now being excluded from nail polish products, but those same ingredients have been used safely for decades by many women across the globe, with no proof or evidence that they are in fact toxic.

Nail polish dries to a hard durable surface and once the ingredients in the polish become embedded in the hardened film coating; they are not absorbed by the body, or the nails nor released into the environment.

What is a risk assessment?

A risk assessment is a means by which scientists assess the health risk associated with a chemical. Since many chemicals can have an adverse effect at a high level, but not be effective or a beneficial at lower levels The scientists next consider how people are exposed to the product, how often, and by how much. They also consider cumulative exposures from other products or settings and sensitive populations. Based on this information, scientists then establish an exposure limit, where they are confident exposures will not harm people.

Toxicologists assume that ingredients are more dangerous, and exposures are higher, than they actually are. This gives each risk assessment a larger margin of > safety.

ĂŽ

NAILS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

– Nail polish ingredients investigated

Product chemistry regulatory bodies The CIR The FDA The U.S regulates all cosmetics, including nail polish products, through the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The FDA has broad authority to regulate and seize cosmetic products which are poisonous, deleterious, adulterated, misbranded, or otherwise pose health risks and do not meet all legal requirements.

The Expert Panel of the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) is an independent body of leading scientists and medical doctors from colleges and universities. The CIR reviews the safety of cosmetic ingredients and conducts risk assessments. The CIR prioritizes the ingredients it reviews based on how frequently such ingredients are used and their safety profile.

Sonette has been in the nail and beauty industry for 24 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191

The NMC In 1990, The Professional Beauty Association in the USA sponsored the creation of the Nail Manufacturer Council on Safety ("NMC"). The NMC comprises the leading manufacturers of nail care products sold to, and used in, professional salons. NMC members cooperate with the association to assure the dissemination of education, training, and technical information concerning nail care products

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NAILS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

The myth about formaldehyde explained Doug Schoon, well-known product chemist and scientist, shares the truth behind the use of formaldehyde in nail polish.

T

he safety of cosmetics, including nail care products, is an ongoing issue, with often, extreme claims being made, based on little or no evidence. These accusations make great headlines because cosmetics products are used by so many people.

There are some incorrect claims that ‘formaldehyde’ is an ingredient in cosmetics and that it is a known carcinogen. However if one understood formaldehyde’s basic chemistry, you would know that formaldehyde is not a cosmetic ingredient and never has been!

It has been claimed that formaldehyde is an ingredient found in nail hardeners, nail polish and preservatives used to prevent bacterial and fungal growth in products such as lotions, creams and shampoos.

In actual fact formaldehyde is a gas, not a liquid or a solid. A gas cannot be added to cosmetics as an ingredient, since it would rapidly escape from the product. Formaldehyde is a naturally occurring gas that must be kept absolutely bone-dry.

In the presence of even tiny amounts of moisture, it instantly transforms into a completely different substance. This is why it quickly breaks down and doesn’t accumulate in the environment. In nail polish, the trace formaldehyde residuals

are about the same as that which naturally occurs in some foods.”

This misunderstanding started sometime in the early 1900s, when formaldehyde manufacturers began mixing this gas with water to create a liquid substance called ‘formalin’. They mistakenly assumed that the added formaldehyde was simply dissolving in the water. What they didn’t realise was that formaldehyde does not dissolve in water, but instead instantly reacts with the water to change into a completely different substance called methylene glycol. Not only is it completely different, methylene glycol belongs to an entirely separate chemical family.

Formaldehyde is a gas and methylene glycol is a liquid with very different chemical properties.

There was a serious naming error that occurred incorrectly claiming that there was formaldehyde in nail hardeners, polish and other cosmetics.

Manufacturers using formalin in nail hardeners can now use the correct name for this ingredient, ‘methylene glycol’. If you find ‘formaldehyde’ on a cosmetic label, you now know this is an incorrect name and you can be sure that formaldehyde was NOT added to the product. Here are the facts: a major ingredient used in nail polish is called ‘tosylamide formaldehyde resin’. This resin is originally made using several substances, including formaldehyde gas, but the resin is totally different.

“When the science behind this issue is examined, it becomes clear and obvious that the claims about formaldehyde in cosmetics causing cancer are not only incorrect; the entire issue has been dramatically exaggerated and overstated.” PB

Most nail polishes consist of a combination of ingredients. Several are listed below. Some are being left out of nail polishes these days, due to questions about their safety.

Information supplied by SpaRitual and the NMC

Pigment – Used to create and add color and also assists with coverage.

Film-former – Assists in making the polish durable and shiny. The most common film-former is nitrocellulose.

Interesting fact is that the film for oldfashioned black-and-white movies is made of nitrocellulose.

Resin – Resins are the tough material that holds the polish together. Resins are a type of “polymer”. This means they are composed of giant molecules that are made by linking smaller molecules into long chains and networks.

Tosylamide/formaldehyde resin – A misunderstood ingredient. (see above)

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Solvent – Most brands use a combination of butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, and toluene, for easy application. Solvents are also used in nail polish removers.

After the lacquer has been applied, the solvent component of the lacquer evaporates so that a smooth, hard coat of lacquer is left behind. Solvents must be compatible with resins, so that the resins can be evenly spread on the nail.

Solvents that evaporate too slowly or too quickly can ruin the lacquer or cause bubbling of the lacquer.

Clay – It aids with suspension and helps to keep the ingredients mixed and polish easier to apply.

UV stabiliser – Prevents sun and light from fading or changing the colour.

These additives help keep lacquers from changing colour when exposed to too much UV light from the sun.

Plasticisers – Additives that maintain the flexibility of resins after they have dried. Plasticisers are a sort of a molecular “lubricant “ which makes the resin less vulnerable to chipping.

Helps with preventing chips and cracks.

Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP) has been used for many decades as a nail polish plasticiser. It is also used in soft toys, baby bottles and tubes for dispensing food and medicine.

Medical

aesthetics Convention 2013 Johannesburg Saturday, 31 August 2013 9:30

Registration

10:00 Introduction into Aesthetic and Anti-Aging Medicine Dr Chris Giezing

10:45 Botulinum Toxin & Dermal Filler - Dr Chris Giezing 11:30 Tea 12:00 Demo – Botulinum toxin & Dermal fillers - Dr Chris Giezing 12:30 The skin and chemical peeling - Sonette Donker 13:15 Lunch 14:15 Laser & light treatments - Johann Op’t Hof 15:00 Tea 15:30 Current ethical challenges in medical aesthetics

* Attendees will receive a CPD Certificate

Ulundi Behrtel An informative lecture by legal expert Ulundi Behrtel covering the current challenges that are affecting doctors in aesthetic practice.

TOTAL CPD POINTS FOR 3 DAYS = 11 ETHICS POINTS = 2

16:30 Network session and close

Monday, 2 September, 2013 Sunday, 1 September 2103

9:00

Registration

9:00

Registration

9:30

9:30

InternatIonal speaker - Canada

Converting a doctor’s practice into a successful aesthetic practice

Dr Renier van Aardt Peri-orbital rejuvenation treatment approaches and pearls, including some facial volumizing tips.

10:30 Tea 11:00 Managing your patients expectations pre and post procedure Dr Chetan Patel Guidelines on how to keep your patients expectations realistic.

11:30 Dermal fillers and the associated complications Dr Cobus van Niekerk Dermal fillers and the associated complications that may arise when preforming treatments.

12:00 Lunch and exhibition 14:00 New Trends in Facial Aesthetic Rejuvenation Host: Dr Gys du Plessis Injections: New indications for Botulinum Toxin Injections Dr Chris Giezing Topicals: The new approach to conditioning and peeling Dr Mark Steinman Devices: The new approach to devices - Dr Gys du Plessis

15:20 Tea 15:50 Instar Medical Workshop Social Media the future of your practice Colin Campbell This workshop will provide you with the fundamental skills and information to successfully run and manage your own online brand. Bring your laptops, smart-phones and tablets, we are going to have some fun.

16:50 Close

Host - Buddy Reardon (Prime aesthetics) The difference between a medical practice and an aesthetic practice - Dr Marissa Stadler Staffing of an Aesthetic Practice - Buddy Reardon Converting patients to regular customers Vaughan Owgan

10:50 Tea 11.20 InternatIonal speaker - Hong kong The convergence of beauty, spa and medical aesthetics Neil Orvay The co–founder of Sense of Touch Spa, Hong Kong shares his knowledge of the harmonious relationship between beauty, spa and medical aesthetics.

11.50 Ageing and the art of skin rejuvenation wounding treatments, the different options and what to use when Host - Karen Ellithorne (Aesthetimed) Skin Peels - Phillipa Crichton Collagen induction therapy - Beverly Karam D’Aguanno Laser rejuvenation - Cherie Fraser

13.20 Close - Lunch and exhibition

*Topics and speakers are subject to change seating is limited. Book early to avoid disappointment.

For more information and to book, visit: www.medicalaesthetics.co.za

Î

MEDICAL AESTHETICS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

The eyes are the window to the soul Dr. Renier van Aardt has studied medical aesthetics extensively, and approaches his patients with a thorough understanding of the person as a whole.

He will be speaking at the Medical Aesthetics Convention in September and shares some career highlights with Karen Ellithorne.

Can you tell us a little bit about yourself?

Biography Opening a medi-spa was a natural extension of Dr. Renier van Aardt’s passion for medicine, beauty and helping people. He began practising family medicine in Canada in 1993, and now spends much of his time in the practice of cosmetic medicine.

Since childhood I have always aspired to be a physician, but was also attracted to business, being involved in sales and other business ventures throughout medical school and after. Status quo has never been a comfortable place for me and I’m always looking for the next opportunity and pursuing new possibilities. I have four children and am about to be a grandfather for the fourth time. I enjoy scuba diving, skiing, fine arts and am also an automobile enthusiast.

He appreciates the medical, psychological and aesthetic considerations that go into making someone feel better – even more beautiful.

Dr. van Aardt graduated from the University of Stellenbosch in Cape Town, South Africa in 1991, with degrees in Medicine and Surgery and is board certified in Family Medicine.

In your career, what factors steered you in the direction of the Medical Aesthetic industry?

In 1999 when my daughter got married, I realised how little time I was spending with my children growing up. It inspired me to change direction in my career when at the same time the opportunity of cosmetic procedures crossed my path. I attended a conference about lasers procedures in clinical practice soon after and the rest is history.

What is your greatest accomplishment?

Facing my fears and taking the leap of faith required to transition fully into cosmetic medical practice.

Throughout your years of experience in the field, what have you learnt?

That it takes time, persistent effort, faith in your vision and deep seated passion to achieve your goals.

If you had the opportunity what would you do differently or see changed in the industry?

In retrospect I would have specialised earlier and started a cosmetic

dermatological practice earlier in my career. I would definitely have built my practice starting with low-overhead procedures, adding expensive devices later, instead of taking on a lot of debt like I did at the onset.

If you had to give advice to a doctor wanting to move across to aesthetics what three key points would you highlight?

Develop a passion for the specialty, have a goal of developing a full-time practice in aesthetics and strive for excellence in every aspect of your practice.

Can you provide us with a sneak preview of what you will be covering in your presentation for the MA convention in South Africa and how it can benefit the doctors that attend?

It is said that the eyes are the windows to the soul. As the focal point of the

Dr. van Aardt has a broad base of clinical experience and expertise to draw on. He’s been offering dermatological laser treatments to patients since 2000. He is also among the top 25 injectors of more than 1 000 Allergan accounts in Canada.

face, I will cover peri-orbital rejuvenation treatment approaches and pearls, including some facial volumising tips.

Even small corrections in this area will benefit the onlookers' perception of beauty and vibrancy – become an expert by exceeding patient expectations.PB

Dr Renier Van Aardt will be speaking at the Medical Aesthetics Convention in September.

For more details,please visit www.medicalaesthetics.co.za

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RADIO-FREQUENCY

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Ride this wave Radio frequency is a great fit in an aesthetic clinic as it proves to have rather dramatic, and in some cases, immediate results, particularly when used in combination with other anti-ageing treatments and weight loss programmes. Karen Ellithorne elaborates.

Points to remember: • RF is best used in conjunction with alternative treatments in order to achieve optimal results; • RF is a non-invasive treatment; • RF can be applied to all areas of the face and body; • No anaesthetic is required for the application of RF; • When applying RF the patient will experience a heat sensation underneath the probe; • Avoid bony areas as RF bounces back, making it uncomfortable for the client; • Work at a moderately fast speed to avoid burning of the epidermal layer.

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ĂŽ

RADIO-FREQUENCY

online at www.probeauty.co.za

R

adio frequency (RF) is a technology that has been around for a couple of years already; however it does seem to keep evolving. It is especially useful when it comes to non-invasive body shaping, firming of the facial contour, wrinkle reduction and can also be used for hair removal, vein cautery and skin blemish removal. RF is a strong tool when it is used in combination with other anti-ageing treatments like skin peels, micro needling, laser, Botox and fillers. Also combined with any medical weight loss programme, RF can dramatically improve the result by assisting with firming and toning the body and treating cellulite post weight loss.

Where does RF come from and is it safe?

The use of electrical current has been used in operating theatres around the world for nearly 100 years and was originally invented by Dr William T Bovie in 1914.

Together with Harvey Cushing, he developed electro surgery, which was first used in 1926, and is now more commonly referred to as Diathermy within an operating room environment. Diathermy is technically conducted RF, and has been used to perform millions of procedures worldwide since its invention. In the 70s, RF was used successfully for a popular permanent hair removal technique called electrolysis, and was even FDAapproved for this purpose by skin care therapists.

What is RF? RF is the rate of oscillation in the range of about 3kHz to 300GHz, which corresponds to the frequency of radio waves and the alternating currents which carry radio signals.

There are two forms of RF, namely radiation RF, which has a non-controlled effect and penetration and is found in mobile phones and radios and then the type used for treatment called conductive RF, which is a highfrequency electrical current found in PC boards, TV and medicines.

How does an RF treatment work?

RF involves generating a localised heat in the body tissues as the current passes back and forth through the tissues. This technology delivers a current into the dermal and subcutaneous layer of the skin. The energy is introduced at a cellular level. When the current passes through the tissues, the current generates a slight friction >

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Full Face

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RADIO-FREQUENCY

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Photos courtesy of Dr. Flor Mayoral

WomanRIGHT: had two Pellevé™ full face Pelleve has a skin tightening effect, treating LEFT: treatments (30 days apart) and wrinkles and slackness The Viora then had her after photos 30with days no downtime.

Reaction post second treatment.

Refit treats excess skin after extreme weight loss.

Pretreatment

Eyes tissues, which can be measured and Single Pellevé™ Treatment This heat is distributed forcontrolled.

Eyes and Forehead.

What is the difference between monopolar and bipolar?

• Monopolar - this type of equipment will require a return accessory for the current to flow from positive to negative. Heat is produced in the dermis but is not a concentrated flow; the current is dispersed into the tissue.

• Bipolar - this probe does not need the return pad. This is a deeper penetration of RF as there is bulk heating, which is created in the deep dermis, as a result of a more concentrated flow of RF. Half of the distance between the negative and positive poles is the penetration depth.

What are the characteristics of RF? The main action of RF current is that it creates a thermal effect in the

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for the operator to be comfortable in performing treatments. When working with radiofrequency it is vital Pretreatment to achieve warmth in the dermal layer as this will determine how effective the treatment is. It is so important when performing a treatment to retain the heat, as collagen stimulation and activation takes place at 42 degrees Celsius over a period of time,” says Wilson.

entirely upon tissue conductivity.

There is no scattering or reflection that takes place and RF has no effect on melanin production. Most of the RF devices available in the market place are available with several different What equipment is available? probes that can be used to treat The Pelleve machine works on this different areas of the body in order to new innovation of skin tightening. It achieve the desired effect. effectively treats facial wrinkles with “RF has been around for a few years virtually no pain, no anaesthesia, and and has taken over the market due to no downtime. Patients can expect to its high demand. The reason for this see results after a single, one-hour is the treatment is completely safe treatment, with results intensifying up to work on all skin types, including to six months post-treatment. skin type 6. The theory behind RF Radiant Healthcare has a machine is that it is colour-blind, therefore it Immediately that Post-treatment incorporates radiofrequency doesn’t have an effect on the melanin with cavitation. The reason for absorption capability and follows the Radiant this combination is that the path of least resistance, creating bulk Healthcare's radiofrequency helps to metabolise Coccon Note: To see more Before After images, go to www.pelleve.com and click on Before & After. heating in the dermis while&preventing Duotechnology the fat due to the heat being applied any epidermal disruption,” says Jayde incorporates in an area, blood flows to the surface radiofrequency Wilson of Radiant Healthcare. with cavitation. of the skin, which allows oxygen and In Ellman summary, anInc. All RFRights Reserved. © 2010 International, nutrients to flood the area ® International, treatment will Inc. produce a ellman which helps to implode the 3333 Royalheating Avenue, Oceanside, deep effect in N.Y. the11572-3625 U.S.A. fat cell membranes much (800) 835-5355 • Fax:the (516)heating 267-6435 dermis, with more effectively when doing www.ellman.com • www.pelleve.com radiating from inside out. cavitation.

CC10045B This, in turn, will increase Viora’s Reaction Refit is lymphatic drainage and FDA-approved for body therefore eliminate toxins, contouring and skin increasing blood circulation tightening, and effectively and improving metabolism treats excess skin after of cells. The heat will induce an extreme weight loss. Four inflammatory response in the skin modes of RF energy are used which will stimulate the fibroblast to target different tissue depths activity to form new collagen, elastin and the vacuum therapy ensures and hyaluronic acid, leaving the skin deeper heat penetration, restoring firmer and more moisturised and collagen flexibility and thereby plump. RF will, therefore, be indicated improving the skin’s firmness and for patients whose skin requires elasticity. firming and toning as well as antiExilis technology uses ageing. controlled deep heating “The most important aspect to the tissue through when looking at RF equipment simultaneous application is correct training, which is given of RF, ultrasound and by the correct person, there are so advanced skin cooling for many specific techniques that need skin rejuvenation, body > to be taught and observed in order

Photos courtesy of Dr. Donald Richey

that becomes an intense temperature increase. When the organisms detect a higher temperature than normal, the brain signals an inflammatory response reaction, therefore increasing blood, nutrients and mineral nutrients to the treated area. The abundance of arterial blood is extremely positive for the tissues as there is an intracellular detoxification that takes place. While the cells receive a reload of elements that generate life, they eliminate toxins and free radicals. This reaction causes the cutaneous layer to regenerate cells as well as accelerate the mitosis and cellular split, encouraging a rejuvenation of the cells. This provides an anti-ageing effect as well as body lifting and firming effect.

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contouring, volume reduction and skin tightness. In relation to body contouring, the mechanical effect of ultrasound helps create separation of the fat cell clusters, allowing more efficient thermal deliver to adipose tissue. When it comes to reduction of wrinkles and skin remodelling, the synergy of focused monopolar RF and ultrasound waves mechanically disrupt collagen fibres and dissociate the collagen structure. The natural healing process evokes fibroblasts to actively produce new collagen fibres.

Accent uses two separate handpieces to deliver different types of RF energy into the deep tissue lasers (2mm to 6mm depth under the skin).

Its biopolar hand-piece is designed to tighten the skin, while its monopolar hand-piece reduces cellulite and fat.

Patients have described the treatment as feeling like a ‘warm massage’. The treatment takes less than an hour and requires no recovery time. As the dermis is heated, a natural reaction occurs that promotes the creation of new collagen, while also releasing toxins in the fat, draining retained fluids and improving skin texture. The treatment works by using controlled heating of the tissue to break down cellulite; releasing and flushing away toxins and fatty deposits; draining excess fluid; and boosting collagen production to improve the skin’s appearance. It targets key areas of fat which are resistant to diet and exercise, while simultaneously improving the texture and tone of the skin.

Thermacool is a monopolar RF device that stimulates deep collagen production to tighten the skin.

Developed by the makers of Thermage, it is a non-invasive procedure that can help tighten, firm and shape the body without the need for surgery and little or no downtime. It is used to treat sagging abdominal skin, to lift arms, thighs and the buttocks and to improve the appearance of skin aged by the environment, diet, smoking, or sun damage. During the treatment, a cooling spray is also used to make the procedure more comfortable and to protect the skin. Treatments result in a tightening and lifting effect, a reduction in girth (circumference of the treated area), and flatter, smoother skin.

What other uses are there for RF in aesthetics?

Janine Thompson, the distributor of Lamprobe South Africa, says that the Lamprobe works very well for the removal of vascular skin lesions, namely dilated capillaries,

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RADIO-FREQUENCY

online at www.probeauty.co.za

LEFT: Exilis uses controlled deep heating to the tissue through RF, ultrasound and skin cooling.

LEFT: Accent targets body cellulite and fat as well as improving the skin’s texture and tone.

BELOW: Lamprobe works effectively to remove vascular skin lesions.

telangiectasia, spider naevi, cherry angiomas (of various sizes) and raised angiomas, and works on the principle of radio vaporisation utilising a combination of radio frequency and high frequency to coagulate the blood in the vascular lesion. With this unit there is no risk of scarring or hypopigmentation, because the heat is attracted to the liquid within the vascular irregularity, and the probe does not penetrate through the skin into the dermis.

Vein cautery can also be performed very comfortably on a patient’s face with minimum downtime using RF. The Ellman machine from Intamed Marketing works on a highfrequency energy that achieves very precise results. The extremely fine, predictable punctures made by the Ellman equipment mean minimal or no scarring, quicker healing, and immediate improvement in the facial condition. PB

BTL-Exilis_210x148mm-2013-SA_kri1 1

18.4.2013 8:17:49

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PROMOTION

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Non-surgical removal of skin blemishes The Lamprobe offers state of the art technology to help people who suffer from minor skin lesions safely and effectively.

T

he Lamprobe, manufactured in Canada, is an FDA- and CEapproved device using radio frequency and high-frequency current to electro-desiccate, electrocauterise or electro-coagulate different skin irregularities.

Treatments performed with the Lamprobe are precise, quick to perform, don’t require any anaesthesia, are not uncomfortable for the client and are extremely effective. Only one treatment is required and results are instantaneous. The Lamprobe can also safely and effectively be used on all skin types, including Vl, to remove keratosis.

Hyper-keratinised lesions, which are raised above the skin, such as age spots, keratosis, fibromas, solar keratosis and skin tags, whether small or very large, raised on a stalk or flat, can be effectively treated without affecting the surrounding skin. The healing rate is, therefore, extremely quick, without any blistering and there is no risk of scarring or hypo-pigmentation.

Vascular irregularities, such as broken capillaries or telangiectasia, cherry angiomas and spider naevi are common blemishes that blanch immediately with the process of electro-coagulation with the Lamprobe. In comparison to the capillary cautery methods of old, no scarring occurs with this method as the heat is attracted to the liquid within the capillary and not to the surrounding skin. This enables one to treat even the most noticeable areas on the face, as there is also no bleeding, healing occurs in just a few days and make-up can be applied as early as 24 hours posttreatment.

The Lamprobe also treats sebaceous lesions like acne pimples, cholesterol deposits, milia and cysts and even sebaceous hyperplasia.

Unsightly xanthelasma, which could only previously be cut out, excised or covered with thick make-up, can now also be removed non-invasively with this method. Healing time is dependent on the width of the lesion.

Cholesterol deposits that are close

to the eyelashes can also be treated in seconds with no damage to the existing eyelash hairs, as the treatment remains focused superficially in the epidermis.

These treatments are performed by experienced beauty therapists, nurses and doctors, whose speciality is in medical aesthetics. Lesions that are dangerous or suspicious are referred to dermatologists.

The somatologists play a vital role in referring suspicious lesions, and increasing their knowledge with regard to different lesions can only be advantageous to their clientele. South Africans generally have insufficient knowledge of the damaging effects of UVA radiation on skin.

Pat Lam, International Examiner for

CIDESCO, advises advanced somatologists who are involved in medical aesthetic treatments to view the video clips and other information on the webpage www.lamprobe.co.za to to increase their knowledge of what is available in the skin care industry nowadays. They should also visit the Skin Care Consultants Facebook Page to see what International Lamprobe Practitioners say about performing treatments with the Lamprobe all over the world, from somatologists to surgeons.

“Everybody loves the Lamprobe,” she says, “because the results are instantaneous, which makes this treatment choice highly satisfactory not just for the client, but for the skincare professionals as well”. PB

For more information, contact Janine Thomson at Lamprobe SA on 071 875 5348 or janine@lamprobe.co.za or visit www.lamprobe.co.za

Professional Beauty June 2013

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online at www.probeauty.co.za

In the market Our round-up of newly launched products, equipment and innovations.

Radiance revealed

Miracle cure MMmend Aesthetic – Miri.cle skincare is an adaptogenic range of products that can be added to any current product regime or used independently. Its star serum contains an award-winning active, which has won global acclaim for its effective lifting and refining action. All products have been formulated for multiple uses, such as the Leggy Sue Spray that not only soothes and embalms dry skin on the lower legs but also serves as a massage balm for tired aching feet.

076 166 7227

Lytera Skin Brightening Complex by SkinMedica offers an effective multi-modal approach to addressing the appearance of skin discolouration. This nonprescriptive skin-brightening product reduces the activation, synthesis and transfer of tyrosinase to melanin. Its results in reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation and dark spots have been clinically shown to have similar efficacy to 4% hydroquinone. The formula also hydrates and nourishes while providing antioxidant protection and mild exfoliation.

011 467 4145

Cool and comfortable

Colour beautiful If we look at the rise of Brazilian and Hollywood salon waxing, women worldwide are taking ‘below the belt maintenance’ more seriously. This is where Betty – colour for the hair down there – is the perfect fit, providing a safe way to cover greys with a choice of rich colours to match the hair above. There is also a selection of cheeky colour options just for fun or to surprise that special someone.

These colours last for four to six weeks and can be reapplied at any time for a boost if needed. Men can use the natural colours to cover greys on the chest area, underarms or the beard.

071 841 6798

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Professional Beauty June 2013

Alma Lasers has unveiled the next generation of its awardwinning Soprano system – Soprano Ice, featuring patented SHR technology – a clinically proven method of effective, virtually pain-free hair reduction. This gradual heating SHR technique creates a cooler, more comfortable treatment experience without analgesics.

The system is also safe to treat clients year-round and FDA-cleared on skin types I-VI and tanned skin. In terms of design and functionality, the applicator weight is lighter to reduce operator fatigue and no consumables are required.

012 998 9844

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MAY•JUN online at www.probeauty.co.za

PRODUCT NEWS

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W 15

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The power of three Six Sensational Skincare presents three targeted eye treatments. Magnificent Eye Gel contains complex carbohydrate Pentavitin and peptide Regu-Age to reduce puffiness and dark circles, smooth fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrate the delicate eye area. Eye and Lip Soft Exfoliator is a hydrating peeling cream with supermoisturising fruit acid complex, Iricalmin and Pepha-Ctive. Eye and Lip Mask is a nourishing and hydrating treatment with regenerative properties, featuring Pentavitin and Wheat Germ Oil. 011 312 7840

Slim smart Thalgo introduces Slim Control for those wanting to maintain their figure or better manage occasional dietary ‘slips’.

Its breakthrough slimming formulation combines the two-stage fat capturing mechanism of Nopal powder with the antisugar effectiveness of Spiral blue micro-alga.

It is also enriched with micro-encapsulated Vitamins A, D and E offering controlled release for superior absorption.

011 880 3850

Polish power CND launches Vinylux – a new-technology, two-step polish system that provides week-long wear. The self-adhering colour coat has proprietary adhesion promoters which anchor to the nail plate and eliminate the need for a base coat. Both the Color Coat and Weekly Top Coat contains photo initiators that allow them to react to natural light, making the product harder and tougher over time. The product dries in eight minutes, will not stain or yellow nails and is easily removed in the salon or at home with any pure acetone remover.

086 112 6374

As good as gold Environ introduces the Ionzyme Cosmetic Gold Roll-CIT, which forms part of its existing range of cosmetic needling treatments for at home use. This meticulously crafted, gold-plated addition is durable, easy to clean, and has 260 ultrafine definitive points, making it the most effective cosmetic Roll-CIT in the range.

080 022 0402

Flow and release BTL Lymphastim Topline is a valuable add-on or standalone treatment that regenerates and detoxifies the body, fights against cellulite, reduces volume and remodels body shape, and prevents heavy-legs syndrome. It offers 26 pre-set therapy protocols based on the principle of manual lymph massage. Fully overlapping chambers make the therapy effective due to the precise movement of lymphatic fluids. It also includes pre-set programmes for muscular relaxation and massage.

076 232 8058

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south african association of h e a l t h a n d s k i n c a re p ro f e s s i o n a l s Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

President’s report Menna Kleine – President, SAAHSP

Once again, SAAHSP hosted a very successful seminar programme at Professional Beauty Cape Town at CTICC, with the help of the Cape Town Committee under the leadership of Audrey Coetzee.

W

e had an international speaker, Dr Kateryna V. Tsvietkova from Lilian Terry. Her presentation covered Essential Oils and Homeopathy.

Lientjies van der Vyver from the Camelot Spa Group spoke on the attributes of a good spa therapist. Some of her key points were as follows: • Heart – have a passion for your industry and the work you do. Your passion will be felt by your client.

• Internal – be confident and go the extra mile.

• Skills – The minimum amount of studies required to become a spa therapist.

• Gap – In a spa environment you are required to work at a quicker pace.

• My business – have the ability to selfpromote, to attract new clients.

• The road – you need goals and time frames.

• Vision – evolve and be ever-changing.

SAAHSP hosted its annual examiners workshop for educators, examiners and school owners, providing feedback on previous exams (SAAHSP and CIDESCO) as well as notification of upcoming examinations. Sandy Roy, SAAHSP CIDESCO representative, gave a very informative talk on Faradism, specifically on the use of this machine in the industry. Should you wish to have a look at this presentation, please visit: www.saahsp.co.za

Time to celebrate

Gauteng committee re-energised SAAHSP has re-energised the Gauteng SAAHSP committee.

Under the leadership of Donna Lira, SAAHSP director and board member, the committee will be hosting its first functions. Due to the Gauteng region being such a vast area, we have divided the committee into sub-committees, establishing branches in the East Rand, West Rand, Pretoria and North West Province. A SAAHSP Round Robin will be held in each of the regions for students and members, where industry experts will provide information on various products etc. For more information on our Round Robin functions and upcoming events, please visit: www.saahsp.co.za.

Being first Susca Watts Academy held its annual Graduation Ceremony and rewarded the top subject achievers.

The Centurion Academy Graduates 2012 at their graduation ceremony on 15 March.

First year reception

Potchefstroom Academy and SAAHST welcomes its first-year students.

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Professional Beauty June 2013

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