August 2016
www.probeauty.co.za
Bright spark Products to make the skin glow
Sunny side up
Screening harmful UV rays
Easy on the eye Eye rejuvenation treatments
THE BOTTOM LINE
Unpacking retail potential
Trendspotting Johannesburg
Show Preview
20
29
In this issue...
52
Regulars
Spa Focus
Features
5 Industry news
29 Eye of the beholder
23 When waxing meets anti-ageing
Local and international news
61 Product news
All the latest launches
64 SAAHSP
The latest news from SAAHSP
The Hammam Turkish Bath & Spa
Medical Aesthetics 52 Eyes wide open Eye rejuvenation treatments
Nails
12 Ask the Experts
55 Get into the groove and make a colour statement
All your questions answered
15 Insider
Tracking the industry with stats
16 Retailing – the impact on the bottom line
Realising your full retail potential
18 Leader of ‘the tribe’ Dermalogica founder Jane Wurwand
20 The five senses
Design, image and branding as a package
24 Everything is marketing
The importance of having a plan
Spring/Summer 2016 trends
Hair removal wax with rejuvenating properties
33 The show-stopper
Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show preview
41 An ‘elite’ treatment
Business
BTL cellulite treatment
43 A pleasant surprise
Viora V30 anti-ageing treatment
44 Walking on sunshine
Sun protection at its finest
49 On the bright side
Skin brightening products
59 When hair takes centre stage
Salon Africa show preview
44
Welcome
I
t was difficult to concentrate on my work while putting this issue together, what with all the high-powered activity in the office, as the T.E. Trade Events’ operations team was full steam ahead preparing for Africa’s biggest beauty event, Professional Beauty Johannesburg (28 & 29 August). This mega industry happening incorporates several other events, including Salon Africa (formerly known as the Professional Hair Show). In this issue you will find previews of just some of the exciting new products and technologies that will be exhibited. Owners and managers of spas and salons are urged to attend the International Spa Convention, which runs alongside Professional Beauty Johannesburg. This convention focuses on all the business aspects of running a spa or salon, such as retail sales, marketing, staffing, customer service and revenue management. We’ve heard in the past that salon owners think this event is not applicable to them as it has the word ‘spa’ in its name. However, as you can see, all the above topics are just as relevant to salons as they are to spas. Another not-to-be-missed industry event at Professional Beauty Johannesburg is the Advanced Therapist and Medical Aesthetics Seminars. Entry fees for these seminars have been kept low so as to attract as many therapists, who are keen on furthering their knowledge, as possible. Even if you don’t perform treatments that fall into the medical aesthetics arena, it’s important that you have a good knowledge of them, as that is what you are competing against. I look forward to welcoming you all at Professional Beauty Johannesburg! Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
Publisher Mark Moloney
011 781 5970
Managing Director Yolanda Knott
083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za
mark@probeauty.co.za
Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970
phil@probeauty.co.za
Editor Joanna Sterkowicz
011 781 5970
joanna@probeauty.co.za
Art Director Alois Sajanga
011 781 5970
alois@fmexpo.org
August 2016
Subscribe 9 issues for R475 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970
www.probeauty.co.za
Bright spark Products to make the skin glow
Sunny side up
Screening harmful UV rays
Easy on the eye Eye rejuvenation treatments
THE BOTTOM LINE
Unpacking retail potential
Trendspotting Johannesburg
On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com
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Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079
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The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com
Professional Beauty August 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
the
FINISHING TOUCH to flawless beauty
Introducing the new Even More™ Range Containing essential moisturising ingredients, antioxidants and vitamin E that are known to hydrate, soothe and protect, Environ’s Cover+ Concealers and Hydra+ Foundations offer light, even coverage and leave your skin looking beautifully fl awless.
www.environskincare.com
EnvironSkinCare
@Environ_Global
News All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.
Environ founder honoured for innovation
Dr Des Fernandes (left) accepts the award
Dr Des Fernandes, the founder and scientific advisor of Environ Skin Care, has been announced as winner of the INNOCOS 2016 Innovation Leader of the Year in the Product category
A
world-renowned South African aesthetic surgeon, Dr Fernandes is known for his pioneering work in the use of Vitamin A in skincare formulations. He accepted the award at a recent ceremony held in Vienna during the World Beauty Innovation Summit, organised by INNOCOS events. Selected from an extensive pool of candidates by a team of four judges and the organisers, Dr Fernandes was recognised for his impressive performance, leadership potential and the impact he is making on his company and the industry in innovation.
The judges released a joint statement explaining their decision: “As a practising cosmetic surgeon, Dr Fernandes clearly has an indepth knowledge of human skin and associated cosmetic challenges. His ‘Step Up’ approach, used in salons by skincare experts, shows great innovation, combining medical knowledge with cosmetic formulation and close customer input. His broadened activities with other vitamins and their derivatives will bring further benefits to the consumer.” Fernandes commented: “Since
Top events at Professional Beauty JHB
Running alongside the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo (28 & 29 August, Gallagher Convention Centre) are the International Spa Convention, which includes a half-day sales workshop, and The Advanced Therapist & Medical Aesthetics Seminar Programme.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Salon and spa owners, managers, therapists and medical aesthetics practitioners are urged to attend these important and informative events, which feature industry experts presenting on a broad range of pertinent industry topics. For more information and to book your place, log on to www.probeauty.co.za
1990, the Environ team and I have made every effort to research, develop and manufacture the best cosmetic products in the world. Our focus has been effective doses of Vitamins A, C, E, and a cocktail of anti-oxidants and peptides to bring about visible benefits for skin.” Environ CEO Val Carstens added that the award is a highlight for both Environ and South Africa: “We are honoured that our scientific director Dr Des Fernandes has won such a prestigious award, and for a South African company to be recognised for delivering world-class skincare products out of Africa.”
News in pictures
Fabian Franz, marketing manager of Italian certified organic skincare brand, Team Dr Joseph, visited South Africa in mid-June to officially launch the brand, together with distributor FutureThis. Team Dr Joseph recently won the Diamond Spa Award and the Innovation Award. Pictured are Franz and FutureThis MD, Renate Klass.
Professional Beauty August 2016
industry news
6
Abalone House spa triumphs
News in brief ■ Two spas choose Babor:
The new Hammam Turkish Bath & Spa in Pretoria, as well as Je Ne Sais Quoi in Nelspruit, now offer treatments from product lines within the Babor and Dr Babor ranges. Products are also available for retail.
T
he Healing Earth Spa at Abalone House has been awarded the 2016 World Luxury Spa Award and was named the Continent Winner in the category Luxury Boutique Spa at the recent awards ceremony in Switzerland. Abalone House is situated in Paternoster, one of the oldest fishing villages on the West Coast of South
Africa. Healing Earth is a premium African spa brand, offering natural, organic products, therapies and spa concepts. Says founder of Healing Earth Spa, Elisabeth Brandt: “We are truly honoured to have received this highly acclaimed award, and immensely proud to have done so on behalf of South Africa.”
Dermacare goes online The online store for Dermacare Distributors recently went live, along with an online app for those who need to purchase on the run. Says Dermacare’s Shané Barkhan: “We decided to create an online store as we realised the internet is a perfect venue for new business and allows us to do business 24 hours a day. In this age of modern technology, unless a company has a corporate presence on the internet they will not be taken seriously and an online store is a natural progression of a webpage. “People visiting www.dermacaredistributors.com can see all our products and purchase there and then. Furthermore, with an online store one is able to reach people in adjoining countries. The online story also ensures open communication regarding order status.” The app is accessible on http://www. dermacare-distributors.com/app.
Professional Beauty August 2016
■ Dermalogica on the move: The Johannesburg headquarters of Dermalogica has moved from Illovo to the new corporate premises of holding company The CAVI Group, in Oakhurst Office Park, 11/13 St Andrews Road, Parktown. All CAVI brands, including Elemis and OPI, can now be found in the new premises. ■ New look for optiphi Serums: optiphi’ s popular Infinity Serums, namely the HA Serum and the Intense Retinol Serum, not only boast brand-new packaging, but improved formulas and texture to enable better absorption into the skin. ■ Cipria Milano lands in SA: Professional Italian cosmetics brand, Cipria Milano, is now available in South Africa. The brand offers high quality make-up, hair treatments, skincare products and fragrances. ■ Women prioritise beauty over bills: Spending money on beauty products is more important than paying bills for 32% of UK women, according to a survey commissioned by consumer brand Jolen Crème Bleach.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
industry news
9
Viora expert visits SA
D
r Inna Belenky, a clinical trainer from Viora Israel, recently visited distributor The Hitech Group in Pretoria to host training sessions on the use of the V30 Rebirth protocol and all the other uses of the V30 medical aesthetics device. Says Hitech’s Naomi Olivier: “Our subsidiary company Medilase and Viora identified a dermatologist, Dr Majoba, who will perform clinical studies on treatments for Viora with the four technologies on the multitechnology platform V30. The goal is to have new clinical studies on the multi-technology treatments of skin types IV-VI. “In addition, the therapists of Danika Spa were privileged to have
Dr Belenky for a full day of exclusive advanced training at their premises. They are now even more enthusiastic about their Viora V30 and the variety of treatments they can offer their clients.” During her stay, Dr Belenky also presented two papers during the 2016 Aesthetic Medicine Congress of South Africa (AMCSA); the first was on treating post-pregnancy conditions and genital rejuvenation. Dr Belenky also emphasised the value of the ReBirth programme for physicians and patients. In another session, she presented on the benefits of combination treatments in a salon or aesthetic practice.
TheraVine on world stage LSE brand development manager Annelise Kritzinger attended the recent Luxury Spa Awards at the prestigious Grand Hotel Kronenhof where LSE skincare brand TheraVine was the preferred sponsor for this year’s annual event. Kritzinger was joined at the awards by Nienke Buwalda from TheraVine Netherlands. “One of our own proud stockists,
Dr Inna Belenky
News in pictures
the Gatsby Spa (Sun City), was named as Continental Winner in the Luxury Spa Group (Africa). It was an honour to be there to celebrate this phenomenal achievement with them,” says Kritzinger. TheraVine was invited to hand over the 2016 World Luxury Spa Awards Overall Global Winner award to Sayanna Wellness, Epic Sana Algarve in Portugal.
Genop Healthcare recently held an event to announce that it has taken on the marketing and distribution for Sinclair’s Ellansé collagen stimulators. Genop also represents two other Sinclair brands, namely Perfectha dermal fillers and Silhouette Soft threads. Pictured is Genop’s official Ellansé trainer, Dr Gerhard van Niekerk. Annelise Kritzinger and Nienke Buwalda
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty August 2016
industry news
10
New GM for Dermalogica
D
arryl Langford has joined Dermalogica South Africa in the capacity of general manager. Langford comes from the pharmaceutical industry and has extensive experience in leadership, strategic and business management.
Says national marketing manager, Natasha Proksch: “Darryl embodies the Dermalogica core values and adds value to the team and to the company through the experience he brings with him.”
Juliette Armand expands body range Premium Greek professional skincare brand Juliette Armand is launching its body range, which comprises 15 retail products, ranging from bath and shower foams, to a hand cream, body butters, firming and slimming gels and exfoliators. “Seeing as the Elements Body Range is quite extensive, we are launching it in phases,” says Janine Janse van Rensburg of South African distributor Poise Brands. “As always, Juliette Armand promises the best
available ingredients, with highly concentrated formulas and advanced technology. We believe this brand has perfected the art of personalised professional skincare.” The first products to launch are: Thermoslim Gel; Artichoke Complex Serum; Triple Action Gel; Stretch Firm Cream; and Hand & Nail Care Cream.
SA gets Sormé World-renowned professional makeup brand Sormé is now available in South Africa. Says Gisela Gold on behalf of Sormé: “Finally a brand of makeup that reverses the signs of ageing with clinically proven anti-ageing peptides. These cosmetics are highly pigmented for prefect colour and all day longevity.” According to Gold, the Sormé professional difference is not only in choosing the finest and purest ingredients, being made exclusively in the US, Italy and Germany, but also
through the brand’s unique packaging that provides clever conveniences with the professional user in mind. “All Sormé Professional products have been thoroughly tested and perfected to meet personal and professional makeup needs,” states Gold. Ingredients include soothing natural minerals, active plant botanicals, antioxidants and healing vitamins. Sormé products are 100% cruelty-free.
Are women pressured to look a certain way? According to a report in Phillips’ second Global Beauty Index, which used the data of 11 000 women in 11 countries, 54% of women believe the beauty industry puts too much pressure on women to look a certain way.
Professional Beauty August 2016
The report also found that brands using a celebrity ambassador can appear untrustworthy to customers. According to the report, the ‘Kardashian effect’ has made it harder for women to keep up with trends and unattainable beauty standards.
Despite the popularity of social media channels such as Instagram and Snapchat, 35% of UK women still turn to traditional magazines for beauty information, the report found.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
We are very much looking forward to welcoming you to our stand (E22) at Professional Beauty, Johannesburg 2016. We will be launching 2 new Calgel colours, taking bookings for half-price training courses and you will also be able to sit down and try applying Calgel yourself.
Calgel
business tips
12
Ask the experts
Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
I am a newly qualified make-up artist and would like to know what should be the essential elements in my make-up kit.
A
make-up artist is no-one without his or her tools. Having a well-rounded and well-stocked make-up kit is essential to succeed in the beauty industry. Just like in any profession, make-up artists need to find the brands that work for them and that they enjoy working with, as well as the tools and necessary accoutrements to ensure they are properly prepared. That being said, let’s start from the bare bones. In order to be an organised and effective artist you need to have a kit, the physical house for all your tools and products. I highly recommend something on wheels, as make-up artists are often on location and carry many items from spot to spot. I also prefer
something with compartments to keep everything organised and in its place. I am a big fan of the Zuca bags, though they are quite an investment. For the beginner, a good, hard-shell carry-on suitcase and clear plastic make-up bags will keep everything organised. For tools it is essential to have a selection of natural and synthetic make-up brushes, a palette and spatula for mixing and sanitary purposes, tweezers, small scissors and a lash curler. Cleaning products are important as well, so don’t forget brush cleanser, sponges, disposable applicators, make-up remover, facial wipes and alcohol for sanitising. When it comes to products it is all about taste and personal preference. I would highly recommend carrying a large selection of foundations (cream, liquid and powder) as well as powder and lipsticks – those will be the most
commonly used products. Be sure that your complexion products cover all skin tones, so that you can effectively work with many different types of skin tone and texture. A good tip is not to overdo it when it comes to your kit; there are products that can be used for many purposes other than just their main function. For example, cream blush can be used on the cheeks and lips, and eye shadow can be used as contour and highlight powder etc. As a make-up artist you are also the skin expert, so it is important to carry with you basic skincare elements, such as toner, cleanser and facial moisturiser to prep the skin. Lastly, some non-make-up-related items I always have in my kit are nail polish remover and body lotion, a camera to test lighting if my client is being photographed, a notepad and pen to jot down the products I used, and a folder of inspiration. Your kit is your arsenal and it will grow with you as you grow your career. PB Born into beauty, Lori Leib has been immersed in the cosmetic industry her entire life. She attended the All About Face Academy in Los Angeles, receiving a certification in Professional Make-up Artistry. Now Leib works full-time as the creative director for Bodyography Professional Cosmetics.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty August 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
your skin
REBORN BEAUTIFUL TM
Vitamin A is an essential skin nutrient that has to be replenished every day for skin to appear healthier and more resilient. But when you combine vitamin A with other essential skin nutrients like antioxidants and peptides, that’s when you begin to see – and feel – beautiful skin through science.
www.environskincare.com
sponsored editorial
14
Making the difference to people's skin Gone are the days that we had to walk around with unsightly and uncomfortable skin blemishes or hide our rough warty lumps and bumps in our secrete places. The Lamprobe offers state of the art technology to safely, gently and effectively help people who suffer from any skin irregularities.
L
amprobe is a FDA and CE approved device working with radio frequency and high frequency current to electrodesiccate, electro-cauterize or electrocoagulate and vaporize different skin irregularities. Treatments performed with the Lamprobe are precise, quick to perform, don’t require any anesthesia and are extremely effective. Only one treatment is required and results are instantaneous.
Hyper-keratinized irregularities Age spots, Seborrheic Keratosis, Syringomas, Fibromas, Solar Keratosis, Depmatosis Papulosa Nigra, Solar Lentigens and Skin Tags are raised above the skin, so treatment is focused in the epidermis of the skin. As a result the healing rate is quick and because the treatment is non-invasive and superficial, there is no risk of scarring or hypo-pigmentation. The Lamprobe can be used safely and effectively on all skin colours even Fitzpatrick Skin Type IV to VI, examples would be Mediteranean, Asian and African skin. Large or small Fibromas whether
“Love my LAMPROBE. I am amazed how safe it is without the risk of marking dark skin” Trushna Lalla, KZN raised or flat are beautifully removed in only one treatment. Lamprobe treatments are highly recommended for the treatment of Solar or actinic,
Professional Beauty August 2016
Keratosis, as well as DPN, also now referred to as Morgan Freeman spots, so the practitioner need not be afraid of working on these darker skin types. Radio frequency sees no colour!
and makeup can be used as early as 24 hours after treatment.
DPN Before “Having used the Sebaceous Lesions LAMPROBE for over 10 years The Lamprobe in my skin clinic, it has also treats proved to be a valuable tool Sebaceous Lesions like in removing skin blemishes. Acne Pimples, DPN After Treatments are precise due Cholesterol to the variety of probes to Deposits, Milia and Cysts. Another major advantage of this choose from, safe & easy to use preferred method of treatment, is that on all skin types and ever body the lesion alone is treated and not the has skin irregularities surrounding skin. The client does not have to suffer any down time. Cholesterol that bother them.”
Helene Bramwell Vascular irregularities such as Broken Capillaries or Telangiectasia, Cherry Angiomas and Spider Naevi are common blemishes that will immediately blanch with the process of electro-coagulation with the Lamprobe. No scarring occurs with this method as the heat is attracted to the liquid within the capillary and not to the surrounding skin, in comparison to the capillary cautery methods of old, where using direct current the needle was inserted into the capillary in the dermis, causing minute scars. Fortunately technology has advanced so treatments can be performed on very noticeable areas on the face with no trace of treatment. No bleeding occurs during the treatment either and healing takes just a few days
deposits even if they are close to the eyelashes can be treated in seconds with no damage to the existing eyelash hairs because the hair papilla extends into the dermis and these treatments can be focused superficially in the stratum granulosum of the epidermis.
Aesthetic Practices A variety of probes and settings enable the skin practitioner to be extremely precise. In aesthetic practices where beauty therapists work hand in hand with doctors, the therapists can treat all the minor skin lesions and the doctors can treat all the additional lesions like moles, warts on any areas, or excisions of lesions can be performed to complete a holistic practice. One machine, LAMPROBE does it all! PB
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business trends
15
Insider
Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in June 2016.
Insider Spa
The majority of spas reported an increase in treatment business as compared to June 2015, albeit a slight increase in some cases. Other spas noted that the increase in treatment business was due to a treatment price hike. One spa reporting a decrease cited the cold weather and the general increase in food and petrol prices as impacting negatively on business. Retail sales told a dismal story as the overwhelming majority reported a decrease in sales. Those that reported similar sales figures to last year said sales were actually down but prices had increased. Treatment room occupancy varied quite a lot, with some spas reporting over 70% and others as low as 22%. We asked you if you are planning specials for Spring and only one spa will offer a body treatment to promote slimming. The other spas are planning specials in Spring but to celebrate specific events (rather than Spring itself), such as Woman’s Day, Secretary’s Day and recent spa renovations. None of the spas polled AVERAGE offer sunless tanning services, TREATMENT although one spa is currently ROOM considering offering such a OCCUPANCY treatment, while another spa reports that one of the spas in its group does in fact offer the service as a speciality of that particular spa.
51%
The month in numbers
67
% BETTER
3
% SAME
30 % WORSE HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JUNE 2016 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2015?
online at www.probeauty.co.za
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JUNE 2016 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2015?
17
% BETTER
16
Insider Salon
In terms of both treatment and retail business, there seemed to AVERAGE be a fairly even split between TREATMENT those who reported an increase ROOM in business as compared to OCCUPANCY the same time last year, those that experienced a decrease in business and those whose revenue was on a par with June 2015. Interestingly, one salon attributed its increase in business to the hiring of an exceptional therapist, who was very proactive in generating business. Regarding specials planned for Spring, many salons are planning slimming, toning and detoxifying treatments, to help clients get their bodies in shape for the summer months. Several salons offer a spray tan treatment, and some of these also sell a self-tanning product. Another salon provides a mousse tan treatment that is particularly popular after the winter months.PB
67%
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JUNE 2016 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2015?
33
% BETTER
38
% SAME
% SAME
67
29 % WORSE
% WORSE
30
% BETTER
34
% SAME
36
% WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JUNE 2016 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2015?
Professional Beauty August 2016
business tips
16
RETAILING the impact on the bottom line
Retail sales are an untapped profit area for most salons and spas. Ayesha Rajah reveals how to unlock retail potential and increase turnover.
W
e all know that retail sales play an integral part in your business’s profit. I don’t want to give you an instant migraine and drone on about why you should be retailing. However I do think we should focus on a few key factors around how retailing can impact your bottom line and how you could grow this. Some things to consider before we get down to the ‘how to’ are: ideal retail percentage; allocated space for retailing; managing your inventory; commission structure; bottom line profit; making it an experience; and changing staff perception.
The 25% The big question is what is the ideal ratio on treatments vs sales? It changes from country to country, but the consensus for our industry is that your retail sales should be in the
Professional Beauty August 2016
region of 25% of turnover or higher. If not, your bottom line is being seriously compromised. So, if your business has a monthly turnover of R100 000 you should be making R25 000 in retail sales. This amount would naturally change depending on turnover. The aim is to work smarter not harder, and let’s face it; we all work really hard in our industry, so the focus is to get retail to the 30-50% mark.
Space allocation According to Day Spa Association (DAS) retail sales data, day spas only allocate between 11% and 15% of space to retail areas. Most beauty salons only have a few shelves for product display and don’t give any consideration to creating a special retail environment. Limited shelf space will limit sales. Drawing attention to products and creating a boutique feel sends a message that you are creating solutions for your
clients. I understand that space can be an issue, which is why I have invested in butler’s trays for my spa that can be moved around. This creates new retail spaces and sparks interest in products located in various areas of the spa.
Feel and touch Get your product houses to assist with merchandising, display talkers and POS (point of sale) material. Give all your brands the equity they deserve and change up the displays periodically. Make an impact by keeping it clean. Avoid mixing brands on the same shelf, it not only looks untidy but diverts clients’ focus. Women are masters at feel and touch shopping and love using all their senses when making purchasing decisions, so create a ‘feel and touch area’ for clients to get involved with your products. Testers are imperative for successful sales and should be displayed on shelves and in treatment rooms.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
17 your retail stock counts done on a weekly basis to assess what needs to be reordered, as fast-sellers change from season to season. Holding more stock towards month-end, and at your busy periods, such as December, will pay off.
Bottom line profit Inventory management Managing your inventory is vital and is often the most challenging process to streamline. In every business there is a delicate balance in play between cash flow and inventory. On one hand you need to keep adequate stock, but you can’t have all your money sitting in a cupboard. A good software programme is imperative in assisting with this dilemma to identify fast- and slow-sellers, manage re-ordering levels and analyse rotation. None of us want cash tied up in sitting inventory, so every two to three months identify slow-sellers and either run a promotion on them or package them with treatments to get them moving. Your trading density on your fast-sellers should be higher and aim to always have one or two extra units in stock. We live in a world of instant gratification, so one thing is for sure – you are going to lose revenue on retail if you are consistently in an out-of-stock situation. People hate waiting! Rather place orders on a bi-monthly basis as opposed to once a month. Aim to get
Commission structure and bottom line profit align with each other. You definitely need to motivate staff and offer commission on retail, but exercise caution when it comes to the percentage you are incentivising. I would suggest a 10% average for commission in order to maintain a healthy bottom line or an up-sliding scale if a therapist is pushing volume. Consider this: you are making a 40% margin on products, of which 10% is paid in commission and 3% to credit card services. Don’t forget that retail space needs to contribute to rental, thus adding roughly 7%. All this equates to a net profit of 20%.
Changing perception We have all heard these phrases more times than we would like to count – ‘I’m not a salesperson’ and ‘I can’t sell’. Getting your entire team on board is tough but you are not alone, as this is one of the top issues for most spa and salon owners. Quite strange when you consider that 85% of beauty therapists believe that the single most important element to maintain and improve skin is a consistent at-home skin regimen. Work with this belief and approach retailing from an education point of view. I would suggest that you hold weekly education sessions on products and highlight slow-sellers. Have your staff carry this through in treatments and take the approach of educating clients rather than pushing sales. On a final note, clients will value you more when they feel like you have provided solutions to their concerns, thus retailing yields higher client retention. PB Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and SkinDoctors.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty August 2016
business tips
18
Leader of ‘the tribe’ Jane Wurwand, founder of Dermalogica, recently visited Cape Town to meet with stockists. Joanna Sterkowicz was granted an exclusive interview with this inspirational industry icon.
P
rior to my interview with Jane Wurwand, the British-born Dermalogica founder gave a presentation on the history of the brand, its emphasis on empowering women and her passion for vocational education. One of Wurwand’s comments that struck me most was: “I carry my own skills set in my hands and am empowered by the fact that I can earn my own living.” Another statement particularly resonated: “Total domination of the world through professional skincare – that was my mantra from youth.” With a mantra like that, it’s not surprising that Dermalogica is currently found in 107 countries around the world. When I asked Wurwand why Dermalogica has become so ubiquitous since its inception in 1986, she responded: “Because it’s not just about the product. There are excellent products in the market, so I think it’s truly the support we give the therapist that resonates and the fact that our foundation is education. We work very hard to create opportunities to connect with our stockists. “I always say that ‘the Dermalogica tribe’ comprises enthusiastic skincare therapists who love what they do. We are not relaxation specialists or aestheticians; we are skin therapists who educate clients.” This focus on education incubated organically when Wurwand, a trained skin therapist, moved to California with
Professional Beauty August 2016
husband Raymond in 1983 and noticed that all the therapists working in salons were European. Wurwand explained: “This was a light bulb moment for me – I saw a big opportunity in skincare education. So I created The International Dermal Institute to teach students how to bring skin to its optimum condition. This does not mean making skin look 20 when it’s 50, or making empty promises to clients that you can’t keep.”
Birth of a skincare brand Dermalogica itself was literally born out of education. In the mid-1980s Wurwand’s students would continually ask her what skincare brand they should be using. “It dawned on me then that American
skincare brands were only available at drug stores, department stores or through direct selling companies,” she explained. “There were no American salon brands. So I saw another big opportunity and that’s when the seeds for Dermalogica were sown. “I always say that we’re an education company with a great product. We say to our stockists that we will increase your business skills and that we want you to be more successful. So many therapists have thanked me for giving them the skills to make a living.” As to the future, Wurwand reveals that Dermalogica is currently focusing on mega trends – how the environment is affecting our skin and how lack of sleep is impacting on everything.
A big ‘FITE’ During the interview Wurwand stressed that it is important to understand what drives the company. “Our mission is women’s entrepreneurship and economic independence. That’s why we created FITE (Financial Independence Through Entrepreneurship), in partnership with microfinance website, Kiva.” FITE assists women around the world to access loans to further their education and/or businesses. President Barack Obama recently announced Wurwand as one of four new Presidential Ambassadors for Global Entrepreneurship (PAGE). “My duty is to advise the President about entrepreneurial needs that I identify. My big focus is on vocational education,” concluded Wurwand. PB
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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In association with
LONDON CALLING
Answer the call and see the latest trends, products and techniques up close and personal. 15 – 17 October 2016, ExCeL, London
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business tips
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The five senses
By having a strong brand your clients will feel like they have a relationship with you and become strong advocates of your business. So, build your brand, because it is the most important thing you have, writes Debbie Merdjan.
W
hen designing a spa or salon you need to get your image right. Branding comes with image. Branding is the visual image you create to communicate with your clients, including your logo, colour scheme and overall theme. Design, image and branding come as a package. Think of them as being inseparable. You cannot do one properly without the other. The right design plays a crucial role in creating the right look and feel of your spa. The right brand communicates to you, and is how your client will remember and think of you. It is important to have professional input. We meet with the client and help them develop the brand and spa concept, as well as the look and feel of the spa. We start by asking the client to describe their brand, using just one adjective. Are you luxurious, high-tech, smart, upmarket, regal or healthy? Then we ask about the spirit of the
Professional Beauty August 2016
brand – would you describe your spa as personal, friendly, family friendly or clinical? What kind of emotions do you want your brand to evoke – happiness, health, strength, well-being? And then identify your target market, look at your concept, the goals you expect from your brand, and how you want people to experience your service. Look at your unique selling points and compare how a client would describe your brand as to how you want them to experience it.
Values and vision Once you’ve given the brief, and remember the above descriptions are all just ideas, you will be able to encapsulate the values and vision of your spa, and transform them in that special way needed to connect your customers to you emotionally. Your brief and your brainstorming are going to ensure that your spa develops a brand personality. It will
make sure that your communications all look and feel like they are coming from the same place. Your brand is not just your logo or your mission statement. It’s an image, a connection, a gut feel that people have about your business. Everything you do in your business, from the colour of your brochure to the way your staff dress, to the five senses, will create a brand experience.
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business tips
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Sensual aspects The spa business is a sensual business, so the five things that will help people connect with your spa brand are the senses – sight, touch, sound, smell and taste. Look at each of these individually and see how you can use them to create a brand, while ensuring that your brand differentiates you from your competitors. Sight is a client’s first impression. There should be some kind of ‘wow!’ factor when they walk into your spa – a stunning water feature, an astonishing light, a statue even. Something that they will appreciate each time they enter. Something they will remember. Look at colour and light. Good mood lighting enhances the atmosphere. Use different colours to express different moods. White and oyster palettes can be professional; blue can be soothing; green, healthy. Use colour cleverly; darker shades will make your space appear smaller but will create ambience. Lighter shades will give you more space but perhaps less cosiness. Get a professional to help with colour as it can be tricky. Sound sets the tone, mood and atmosphere and will reinforce your
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brand message. If you choose blue shades throughout your spa, the sound of flowing water will complement your message. If you choose red, you may want a background sound of drumming. Go with a theme and let the sound complement the colour. Remember too that different music will work in different areas. You may want no music in the reception area, meditative music in the treatment rooms, or classical music in the change-rooms. Again, these are just ideas. Look at each room and talk about the atmosphere, feel and emotion that you want to create. Think about your branding. If you have a cultural influence in your spa’s design, you may want to choose music that reflects the cultural vibe. Think too about the sounds you don’t like! The sound of shoes on creaky floors, the chatter of staff, the flush of a loo…
Touch and smell Next come touch and fragrance. Touch confirms that what we see is real. If something looks good, we want to reach out and feel it. It’s important that it feels as good as it looks. There’s nothing better than having a soft fluffy robe or gorgeous linen against your skin. Fragrance sets the mood with scented candles, aroma burners and
Your brand is not just your logo or your mission statement. It’s an image, a connection, a gut feel that people have about your business. the products you use. Work your colour theme into your fragrance. If it’s green, maybe use green leaves, tea or something floral. The smell of the ocean and salt could go with blue and something smoky with red perhaps. Use evocative smells in your oils, scrubs and wraps. Let your clients breathe in and lie back, feeling satisfied. Taste will also influence your brand message. If you’re offering wellness, wheatgrass shots and fresh juices will match the brand. If you’re offering luxury, chocolate and champagne, caviar or salmon would go down a treat. Don’t mix things up. If you’re offering light, stick to cucumbers. If you’re going indulgent, then offer clients chocolate! PB Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.
Professional Beauty August 2016
treatment review - facial waxing
23
When waxing meets anti-ageing Salon owner Phila Senzani tries the new Depilève Cerazyme treatment that combines epilation with skin rejuvenation.
I
’ve used Depilève Bush Tea wax in my salon, Opulence Beauty Salon in Weltevreden Park, for some time, but was very interested in the patented Cerazyme Rejuvenation Anti-Ageing Epilation treatment. Said Adri Maritz, area manager for Depilève distributor, Smart Buy: “This treatment is a world-first in that no other waxing manufacturer has created a cosmetic wax that treats anti-ageing concerns while epilating. Cerazyme is the first treatment where a Q10 DNA serum with rejuvenating, anti-ageing benefits is combined with hair removal, having rejuvenating benefits for the skin. “Another first for Cerazyme is that it has nose pore refining, eyebrow firming and sculpting, full facial rejuvenation, under-arm and bikini firming and sagging arm toning benefits. No other wax is able to do this.” To commence the treatment, Maritz cleansed my face with the Cerazyme Make-up Remover. This cleanser contains three active ingredients, namely Fucogel, Calendula (Marigold) Extract and Bisabolol. Not only does it cleanse the skin, but it soothes and conditions it to ensure painless epilation. Step two of the treatment was the application of Dermo Balance, with milk thistle and menthol, onto the areas to be treated. “For all those areas on the face where there is sagging, such as the barcoded (or upper lip) area and under the eyebrow, we apply the Cerazyme DNA Facial Concentrate to prepare the skin for the wax. This serum contains Q10 Coenzyme, Marine DNA Filaments and NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor). Q10 Coenzyme stimulates the natural
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mechanism of skin regeneration at the deepest layers, preventing premature ageing. Marine DNA Filaments revitalise the skin and accelerate skin repair to improve the appearance and quality of tissues,” explained Maritz. Once the DNA Wax Mask is applied, it pushes the active ingredients of the serum into the micro-channels of the skin. I noticed that the Cerazyme wax sets quickly. “The removal technique is very important – the therapist must use a spatula to remove the wax and not their fingers,” stressed Maritz. “This is a professional removing technique.” I was delighted to find that I barely felt the removal. Another advantage of this new formulation of the Cerazyme wax is that it requires a lower temperature for heating and is therefore kinder to the skin. Following the wax removal, Maritz reapplied the serum on the waxed area to rejuvenate and soothe. To finish off the treatment, Maritz massaged the Cerazyme Facial Cream onto my face. This cream, which felt fresh and rejuvenating, contains Q10 Coenzyme, sun protection factor 15, Andiroba Oil, Marine DNA and NMF. “We recommend that salons give their clients the used vial of serum to take home and that the client uses the serum until it is finished,” stated Maritz. Post-treatment, my skin literally glowed and the texture, particularly on my nose, was much improved. PB
Contact: Smart Buy Tel: 011 888 9044
Professional Beauty August 2016
business tips
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Everything is marketing In the first of a series of articles, Chris Parker of ESP unpacks the concept of marketing your business.
D
o you often have that nagging feeling that you suppress but just won’t leave you alone, where you know you should be doing more to market your business but you just never get around to doing it?
This is usually because most of the time you really don’t know what you should be doing, and, on the odd occasion that you do try something, it is a random once-off promotion or newsletter that seems to make very little difference to your business and was too much of a distraction from your normal daily operational demands.
Swing and miss To quote John Wanamaker: ‘Half the money I spend on advertising is wasted. The trouble is I don’t know which half.’ Now, we are not saying that marketing equals advertising, but the above quote helps give us a sense of the uncertainty we usually have about the success of our marketing efforts. If you are someone who does carry out any marketing or promotional activities, why do you do it? Do you have a loyalty scheme? Why? Do you run specials? Why? What is the context of these and any other activities that you carry out? The answer should be something along the lines of: ‘Because these activities are all part of my marketing
Professional Beauty August 2016
Having a plan when it comes to marketing implies that forethought has gone into what you are doing and that there is a bigger picture in mind that makes sense of everything you do. plan’, but the answer is usually more like: “Because we need to make more money and I needed to do something”. Another question to ask is: ‘How do you know if any of the above activities are successful or not?’ Being able to answer this question implies that you have some sort of measure of success, i.e. that it has been thought about in advance (i.e. that it has been planned for). Having a plan when it comes to marketing implies that forethought has gone into what you are doing and that there is a bigger picture in mind that makes sense of everything you do. It is this idea of a bigger plan that we would like to focus on in this series of articles. Having a plan gives meaning to everything you do.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
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Defining moment If we define marketing loosely as the process through which goods and services move from concept to customer, we see that this covers everything that you currently do in your business and many things that you don’t yet do, but should be doing. This means that everything you do (no matter how big or small) relates to marketing, and, if this is the case, it may be worthwhile finding out a little more about how marketing works and what’s involved in putting some sort of marketing plan together.
Marketing’s ultimate goal We are fortunate that our own goals and the goal of marketing are already aligned (whether we know this or not) i.e. to increase sales. The problem is that we most likely only focus on this end goal of increasing sales and are confused as to why this end goal can be so difficult to achieve. Warning – sports metaphor about to be used – again! If you consider playing a game of soccer, it would most R
Professional Beauty August 2016
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likely go something like this: whistle to start game, pass, pass, change direction, more passes, lose possession, win back possession, more passes, build up to get closer to opposition goal, set up good position to score, and then finally score. Then you will have to defend the same onslaught from your opposition, who are trying to do the same thing – the better your build-up towards the opposition’s goal the better your chances of scoring. Imagine if both teams just took turns having shots at each other’s goal from the halfway line – they might get lucky every now and then, but there would be very few goals scored. Now, think about the preparation that goes into a game beforehand. Not only will there be physical training but there will be strategies and tactics – all designed to achieve the end result of scoring goals. The combination of good physical preparation, good planning, good execution of the strategy and using clever tactics will increase the chances of scoring goals. The more professional the team, the higher the likelihood they have good strategies and tactics in place. When they are under pressure and down by a few goals they will be more likely to stick to their game plan rather than to disintegrate into chaos, which will be the outcome for a lesser-prepared team, like a ship losing its rudder and being tossed around by the wind and waves.
Back to the salon In the same way as my amazing sports metaphor and trying to score a goal from the kick-off, if the first time you are thinking about closing a retail sale
Professional Beauty August 2016
with a client is when they walk to the front desk to pay for their treatment, then your chances of ‘scoring’ will be very slim indeed. However, if you have some sort of plan and strategy that the sales conversation falls into, then the success rate should be even higher. Similarly, if the first time you are thinking about getting feet through the door is when business is quiet, then, apart from some ridiculous discount special, you will most likely battle to get the immediate turnaround that you are looking for. So the point we want to make is that without a plan, your chances of being successful are just that, chances. When you are successful you will be less likely to be able to measure why and you will feel at the mercy of circumstances that seem beyond your control, like competition, the state of the economy, or the season etc.
Alignment In this series we will look at how deciding on what products and services you choose to offer form part of your plan. We will look at your location and how you make these products and services available to your clients. We will look at how you inform the market about your
Without a plan, your chances of being successful are just that, chances.
products and services in order to drive traffic to your salon and how you price your products as part of this plan. Furthermore, we will look at how every little thing you do is related to marketing and how this should be aligned with your marketing plan, which in turn should align with your greater business plans and your ultimate desire for your business. Without a plan everything you do in your daily routine becomes a little meaningless, but, as soon as it relates to a greater plan, then everything comes to life, as it takes on a new meaning and purpose. PB Chris Parker joined ESP in 1997 and has worked in the areas of software support, training, sales, marketing, finance, business intelligence, consulting, product development and general management. He has worked with many salons and spas to ensure that ESP’s software is as comprehensive and up to date as possible.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
On: 28 & 29 August 2016 at: Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand
2016
SUNDAY 28 AUgUSt 2016
MONDAY 29 AUgUSt 2016
8h30
Registration
9h00
Registration
9h30
Welcome by Mark Moloney
9h30
SALES tRAiNiNg WORKShOP - WALKiNg With giANtS
10h00 KEYNOtE SPEAKER
Venetia Butler
Andrew Gibson
Director of training at SALESGURU (Africa’s leading sales and sales management training company)
VP Spa and Wellness Fairmont Raffles Hotels and Resorts
11h30
11h00
Tea
11h30 – 13h00 Workshop continued
Tea / coffee
13h00 – 14h30 Lunch and exhibition
12h00 StAFF
14h30 CUStOMER SERviCE
Staff Retention programmes
First contact with your business
How to recruit the right team
Customer narrative
Invest in training your team
Attention to detail of the customer treatment
13h00 – 15h00 Lunch and exhibition
Customer feedback: the lost art of connection
15h00 MARKEtiNg
15h30 REvENUE MANAgEMENt
How to put together an advert
Understanding cost of goods and how it impacts your bottom line
Power of copywriting Social Media: How impactful is it and how does it affect your turnover?
Effective booking of treatments and upselling Improve your bottom line or your business will go bottoms up!
Mobile marketing
16h30 Close
16h00 ECO SUStAiNABiLitY Renewal sources
Let’s talk about it...
Carbon neutral ideas
17h30
Tea and Close
BOOK EARLY FOR YOUR 2016 DELEGATE PASS Check the website for online bookings and benefits: www.probeauty.co.za
more info: www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
29
Eye
of the beholder
Joanna Sterkowicz goes on a tour of a spectacular new Turkish-style spa in Pretoria.
I
’d been told by a gentleman who regularly visits opulent, luxurious spas in Dubai that the newly opened Hammam Turkish Spa & Bath in Pretoria was like nothing he’d ever seen before. Well, after visiting the spa myself I can honestly say that he wasn’t exaggerating; each area of this expansive and facility-rich spa is a visual feast for the eyes. From the moment you enter the spa your eyes are delightfully assaulted with a dazzling array of beautiful mosaic tiles, glittering Turkish chandeliers, authentic paintings from the region depicting the heady days of the Sultan, sumptuous fabrics in deep crimson and purple shades, fabulous Middle Eastern furnishings, a rich array of ‘objets d’art’, and even genuine antique brass taps from the Ottoman Empire. Added to this is the widest variety of hydro facilities I’ve ever come across in a single spa – Hammam, Vichy Shower, Egyptian Copper Bath, Rasul Chamber, steam room, sauna, Jacuzzis,
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rain shower, and a blue-tiled, fountainadorned Roman Bath so spectacular that I actually gasped when I saw it. Then there are other wonders to behold, like the picturesque Breathe Garden, a charming tea room, a wooden sun deck at the top of the spa, an eight-station pedi lounge, a yoga
lounge and a deluxe retail area dripping with enticing products from two high end brands, namely Harnn and Babor. Perhaps best of all is a relaxation area that literally reeks of grandeur, with lavish day beds and splendid drapes reminiscent of the inside of a Bedouin tent – absolutely perfect for guests who wish to lounge with intent. R
Professional Beauty August 2016
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spa focus
31 A closer inspection of the spa reveals that it also houses an impressive array of aesthetics equipment – namely IPL, laser, cavitation and fat freezing. There is even a ‘tan can’, as well as three teeth whitening stations. And, nestled away in a secluded part of the spa, is an entire hair salon to ensure that guests can leave the spa with fabulous hair. The Hammam Turkish Bath & Spa is situated on Sterkfontein Avenue, within the Yadah Castle compound, which houses the popular A’la Turka restaurant.
Back story Beyond the visual splendour and luxurious facilities of the spa is a fascinating back story, recounted by the owner of the spa, Vannessa Hacisuleyman, a South African of Lebanese descent with a Turkish husband, Gokhan. Together they own Yadah Castle and A’la Turka. Said Hacisuleyman: “Gokhan and I met while working on Five Star Steiner cruise liners. He was from the tourism and hospitality industry, having worked for Sheraton, Hyatt, Hilton and Royal Caribbean, while I was a therapist and hairstylist. I was moved into a management position very quickly by Steiner and had to supervise teams of between 14 and 28 therapists.” Needless to say, during her seven years on the Steiner liners, Hacisuleyman travelled extensively. “I really learnt a lot during that time,” she stated. “On cruise ships, spas have a captive audience but you need to lure passengers into the spa from the moment they board the ship. Sometimes you get young passengers and ‘yuppies’, and other times you have ‘Budget Betties’, who want nothing more than to have their hair blow dried
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for the Captain’s Cocktail party. In order to reach the target market you have to be very creative and work consistently on your marketing.”
Coming home In 2000, Hacisuleyman and her husband decided to settle in South Africa and started a small, but very successful Turkish restaurant in Garsfontein, near Pretoria. Once they outgrew the premises they moved to Irene Mall. She continued: “This was a step closer to our dream property, where Yadah Castle is now situated, but we outgrew Irene Mall as well. Plus, shopping mall rental is very expensive and the cinemas in the centre impacted on business as our guests would rush their meals and leave at 7.30pm to go and see films. When we eventually bought the Yadah Castle property I had a vision, part of which was to open a spa once our restaurant was fully established in its new location.” Hacisuleyman reveals that it took her four years to build the spa and that
she designed and furnished the entire spa herself. “I did all the mosaic work and upholstered all the furniture. It was my aim to take elements of what I’d seen and learnt overseas and create something unique – an environment that would provide a holistic wellness retreat for guests seeking the ultimate in relaxation.”
Target market Not surprisingly, most of Hacisuleyman’s regular restaurant clients have expressed great interest in the spa. “The majority of our clientele are staff members from Middle Eastern embassies in Pretoria,” she explained. “It’s been estimated that there are over 7,000 people working in this sector, which is a huge potential target market for the spa. “At the moment I have a single Hammam facility – this is a Turkishstyle steam room where you lie on a mosaic slab and your body is ‘polished’ by the therapist, using natural fibre mittens, olive oil and a soap sourced from Turkey. I want to build another Hammam in the spa, as Middle Eastern culture dictates that women and men have separate facilities.” At the time of my visit, Hacisuleyman was still in the process of finalising the treatment menu. “Thus far I’ve designed seven spa journeys that I believe will totally transport clients. One of these is the Cleopatra Journey, which will make use of our authentic Egyptian Copper Bath and a Babor milk treatment,” she concluded. PB
Professional Beauty August 2016
A DATE FOR YOUR AUGUST DIARY Exclusively for your beauty, hair and spa business The must attend event for your profession
JOHANNESBURG
28 & 29 AUGUST 2016
Register now for your free ticket: www.probeauty.co.za
professional beauty johannesburg
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The show-stopper
South Africa’s biggest beauty expo, Professional Beauty Johannesburg, takes place on 28 and 29 August at Gallagher Convention Centre. Here is a sneak peak of what to expect from just some of the exhibiting companies. SKINCARE Adorn Skin Care (stand G13) will offer salon opening special packs from R3000 to R6700, including between 22 to 33 products and some marketing material, depending on the package. Adwin Korea Corp on stand H22 is a CGMP certified beauty & healthcare products manufacturer and produces and sells facial masks, cleansing wipes and pouch products from South Korea.
A&I Importers (E14) will launch Skin Doctors BeeTox – a bee venom treatment with Manuka honey that helps activate skin cells to reduce wrinkles. Phytomer’s Structuriste tackles the visible signs of skin slackening, while Nutritionnelle intensely moisturises dry, dehydrated skin. Boasting brand new packaging, PRIORI Perfecting Minerals SPF 25 fights skin ageing and provides flawless coverage. Demos: Skin Doctors Makeover and free relaxing sea water or foot and hand massages from Phytomer. Always21 Co (H26) will showcase the new JEJU Volcanic Deep Pore Cleansing Mask, made with mineral volcanic ash, kaolin and carbonated water. These ingredients remove skin R impurities and refine pores.
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Professional Beauty August 2016
professional beauty johannesburg
34 SKINCARE continued... Beaucience – Beauty Through Science (C14) is a proudly South African, highly effective anti-ageing professional skincare brand that specifically focuses on using natural formulations and organic ingredients where possible. Black Pearl (D31) is an innovative, luxury brand that is uncompromising in the delivery of quality, from ingredients in its beautiful formulations to its spa experiences. This uncompromising quality will stun both spa/salon guests and therapist teams.
Cashmere & Co, a luxurious, cost effective and proudly South African body and foot range that uses the therapeutic value of fynbos essential oils, will be showcased on K2 by The Spa Warehouse. Collagen Lift Paris (E18) will launch a revolutionary new drinkable collagen product, only available to salons. Free tasting and special trade prices will be available on the stand.
Cosmotech Distributors – Image Skincare (C17) will showcase its O2 Facial & Clinical Couture Designer Peels and explain how to grow your revenue with safe, results-orientated and customisable treatments. Visitors are invited to enter the Facebook pic competition. The Derca Range | Derma Cosmetic (F31) product range focuses on treating and maintaining skin health and concerns. This product is 100% South African manufactured and offers high mark-up brackets, no opening orders and free in-house training. Skin peels and body peels will be demonstrated on the stand. Visitors to the Dermalogica stand (B4) can look forward to the proven core concepts that have brought Dermalogica to where it is today, through personalised hourly skin lessons in the form of the brand’s trademarked Face Mapping® skin analysis. Dermalogica will also showcase the latest in treatment technology with its brand new IonActive Expert Strength Treatment that encapsulates advanced results through the use of electrical modalities, the latest in product innovation and the power of touch therapy. Demos will be done on the stand by Dermalogica training specialists. Environ Skin Care (C4) continues to use the science of beauty to pioneer. Join us as we launch the Even More™ Concealers and Foundations Range – the finishing touch to flawless beauty. The unique product offering from Lonsdaleite (H23) includes but is not limited to: Instant Face Lift, Peptide Lash, Stem Cell & Helix tightening Serum, Fruit Acid Peel, Microdermabrasion, Nail GEL and accessories.
Professional Beauty August 2016
At stand H15, MatsiMela Home Spa will introduce its brand new spa range and offer show specials and discounts, The company’s newly launched 3D Beauty Eyelash Extensions will also be offered. With a range of over 300 healthcare and personal care products, including brands like Liv.52, Cystone, Bonnisan and Neem, Himalaya Wellness (G9) is a pioneer in the use of modern science to validate contemporary Ayurveda principles in an effective and value for money, head-totoe product range. Natures Essence (H2) aims to provide comprehensive beauty treatments and services to its clients who aspire to reveal their inner beauty through their appearance. The Oa Skincare range will be launched in South Africa by Opal Sky Beauty (L27). Visit the stand to find out about great promotional offers. SeaSentric Masks (M23) will debut their new line of specialised face and body masks. Serums have been specially formulated to accompany the line for the best results. The Shea Alliance (H27). Join us in South Africa, and Morocco to celebrate high quality, locally-crafted, shea based cosmetics. Find everything from traditional raw, organic shea butter to new and innovative products like coconut body cream and lavender shower gel. These events will be the ideal places to learn more about shea and stock up on some of your new favourite products!Products include Lotion, Lip balm, Body scrub, Body creams, Hand and body soap Raw shea butter, Hair care products, Shampoo & Conditioner.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
professional beauty johannesburg
35 Visitors are invited to the SIX Sensational Skincare & Spalicious stand (E30) to be treated to a one of a kind hand facial, for silky soft, smooth hands. The latest micro needling device from Clinical Resolution USA will be launched by SkinTECH (L23), with six serums for a number of indications. Demos will be performed and a show special offered.
NAILS Bio Sculpture Gel (F22 + H19) will launch its new Decadent Collection, comprising Wild at Heart, Rosewood Stardust, Jewelled Opulence, and Spun out of Dreams. Also to be launched are the Evo2 Mood Colours – four new colour-changing shades. Discounts on Bio Sculpture training kits available. Decadent Collection
Every business tells a story. ESP brings you the tools and the team to write your own.
Evo2 Mood Colours
On F19, E.MI School South Africa will sell a variety of nail art products. The school will have a demo table to demonstrate how the products work and to highlight training courses. Maskscara (G29) will showcase its latest nail polish product, Mani Can (Spray on Nail Polish), as well as Chrome & Mermaid Nail Art Dust and new GEL-iT Gel Polish colours. An experiential and results-driven range of professional manicure and pedicure treatments and retail products, Milk Solutions (B27) introduces new branding, packaging and innovations such as the Professional Moisturising R Gloves, Softening Socks and Foot Files.
ESP - YOUR SALON & SPA MANAGEMENT PARTNER Professional Beauty August 2016
TELEPHONE: 086 0994163 EMAIL: info@esponline.co.za
www.esponline.co.za
professional beauty johannesburg
36 NAILS continued...
TANNING AND SUNSCREENS
MoYou Nails (G11) will introduce the new Clear Stamper and Scraper at a 20% discount. It will be now available for R160.00 instead of R200.00.
Caribbean Tan (L4), South Africa’s original spray tan, will showcase its new offering and packaging. Show specials will be offered.
On K1, Retro Revolution will launch its first product, the Liquid Edge. Amazing specials on this product will be offered.
Massive discounts on the full range of the award-winning nailsforu product range will be offered on stand F4. A new polish range, as well as the Go Lac Peel Off Colour Polish range, will be on show. OPI (E4), a leading manufacturer of professional hand, foot and nail care products, is sold in over 103 countries worldwide and has unprecedented research facilities in Hollywood, California, ensuring OPI customers are the most up-to-date and innovative professionals worldwide.
Sun Skin & Skin Kidz (F34) will introduce the South African manufactured sunscreen, UV-DERM SPF 50 that protects against UVA and UVB rays and visible light – blue/ violet (400nm-500nm) with a melanin blocker. It is available in a unique 250ml ‘On-The-Go’ packaging. The Skin KidzSkin range has been improved, for children aged two to 12.
Don’t miss out on Gelish and Morgan Taylor opening order specials and Sparkle Nail Academy course discounts on the Sparkle Cosmetics stands (G10 + G14 + H8 + H14). The company will also launch innovative new products. New exclusive nail techniques and nail art demonstrations will be conducted throughout the day by an international master educator. Visit Skinny Tan on stand J15 to discover this new sunless tan brand, which doesn’t just tan the body, but firms it up to dissimulate the visual effects of cellulite. New products within the Skinny Tan proven recipe will be launched. The Tan Lab (L6) continues to develop innovative sunless tanning products for the professional and retail market. These products are unmatched by DHA only sunless tanners. Twincare International (D4) is proud to launch two new and exciting brands – Screaming Beauty and Artistic Nail Design, as well as showcasing the internationally renowned IBD professional nail range. Screaming Beauty is an innovative edgy Waxing and Manicure & Pedicure range of superior quality. Artistic Nail Design is an innovative and trendy nail range designed by nail artists for nail artists and professionals alike. Young Nails South Africa will have demo tables on stand F15 and a retail stand on F5. They will demonstrate the latest trends in art and nail designs.
Professional Beauty August 2016
HAIR REMOVAL On stand E9 Adam & Eve Wax will be demonstrating its quality wax range.
Cirepil by Perron Rigot / SA Beauty Distributors invites visitors to stand D41 to experience the world of ‘Happy Waxing’.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
professional beauty johannesburg
37 Dermacare Distributors prides itself on having one of the best waxes in the country. Visitors are invited to come to stand H1 to feel the difference and view its wide selection of products. The new Wax Removal Solution will also be showcased. Smart Buy Depilève (D14) will relaunch the Cerazyme Cosmetic Wax with a new Cerazyme DNA Mask Rosin Wax. Smart Buy strives to keep up to date with new different products and waxing techniques. A 10% discount on ALL products will be offered on the stand. International Depilève trainer, Manolo, will be on the stand to conduct demos.
MACHINES The goal of Beauty Tech (J1) is to offer beauty therapists the best in equipment, services and support. Suppliers of: Vapozone, diamond + microdermabrasion, skin scrubber, digital 8 in 1 combo, elpilation, ultrasound, g5, etc.
Best Lasers / The Laser Beautique will be on stand A1 and are proud to announce that the Alma Lasers Soprano ICE (which won the International Aesthetic Industry Award for Best Hair removal 2015-2016) has just bettered its technology with the new Soprano Platinum. Alma Lasers has also just launched the Accent Prime – a 20-minute body contouring device. BTL Medical SA on B16 will exhibit nonsurgical machines for the aesthetic medicine sector that represent the best devices in fat dissolving, skin tightening, anti-cellulite, anti-wrinkle, lymph drainage and IPL treatments. All machines are designed and manufactured by BTL Industries. On stand E20, CryoLiving will showcase SleekSculpt, a non-invasive treatment that combines Cryotherapy and lymphatic drainage, improving the skin’s firmness and appearance of cellulite. The CryoFacial is unique in the way that nitrogen vapour has the effect of micro-circulation, resulting in immediate skin tightening, a reduction in pore size and brightening dark spots. R
professional beauty johannesburg
38 MACHINES continued... Radiant Healthcare (B31) will launch a new product, the Plasmalift, a high precision instrument with patented plasma technology. When the tip of the device is close enough to the skin, the air between the tip and the skin will ionise, generating a micro lightening (ie. plasma). This micro lightning will cause a very targeted and localised ablation of a very thin layer of the skin tissue.
drainage massages, all in one applicator. Hitech subsidiary, Medilase, will introduce a new system in the V platform range of Viora, namely Viora V10. This is a multi-RF platform, powered by Viora’s proprietary, clinically-proven RF technologies.
Technilamp (Pty) Ltd will showcase a wide range of Hapro Sunbeds (vertical and horizontal); sunbed replacement lamps, and psoriasis and collagen units on stand B20.
The Venus Concept stand (C11) will feature live demonstration stations with safe-for-all-skin-types (MP)2 multipolar RF/PMF technology for facial and body contouring. Prospective customers can see and experience Venus treatments first hand.
SERVICES & EQUIPMENT Stern Laser (B29) distributes the finest medical aesthetic equipment. This includes: Syneron Candela – GMax Pro (Alexandrite & Nd:YAG); Lasers for hair removal, pigmentation, sun damage, vein removal, skin tightening; VBeam (pulsed dye laser for vein removal, vascular lesions, roseacea, stretch marks); and CORE (skin resurfacing); PicoWay (tatoo removal). Also Microdermabrasion, DermaFrac, ZWave (cellulite), AmieaMed Microneedling and Zeltiq (fat freezing).
With efficient manufacturing, the ability to design independently and to offer professional services, Guangzhou Cosfinity Cosmetics Co Ltd (J21) meets customers’ evolving needs in providing customised cosmetics packaging.
Wellness Fitness Africa (A4) will promote a new and exciting range of spa and beauty equipment from Europe and is planning a very different and extra special sauna for
The iKhokha (J3) pocket-size card machine currently enables hundreds of hair and beauty professionals to accept card payments from their salon or in their clients’ homes. Visitors to the stand will receive a R100 show discount. For any show visitors looking to add new products to their existing ranges or wanting to open a new salon, Leonelda Products (F14 + K15) will have a wide range of products on display to try and will hold demos. APS will demonstrate on stand G4 how offering a STUDEX® ear piercing service can increase both income and foot traffic into salon business. Easy to use and extremely hygienic systems for belly and nose piercing, as well as for ear piercing.
its spa clients.
SOFTWARE ESP Salon & Spa Software (F1) will introduce its new convenient and efficient cloud based software, incorporating all the inherent knowledge, reliability, safety and expertise that ESP clients have come to expect.
MAKE-UP
Stand F23 will be occupied by Kryolan SA, a brand that has made its own make-up for 70 years and three generations. Kryolan’s motto: “We think of it. We manufacture it. Formulate it
The South African launch of the Lumenis SlimMe will take place on The Hitech Group stand (D23) at Professional Beauty Johannesburg. This is a new approach to body contouring by real cell destruction, a system based on tissue heating achieved by ultrasound, radiofrequency (RF) and lymphatic
Professional Beauty August 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
professional beauty johannesburg
39 and love it into existence.” On stand K8, Kohl Makeup will showcase Ben Nye Makeup, Mehron Makeup, Temptu Airbrush Makeup, Skindinavia and Kohl Makeup Brushes. Visitors will see breath-taking body paint come to life. The Kohl team will perform makeovers on the stand and give makeup tips. Through sheer business ingenuity and a clear vision, LoveMyMakeup (M22) has partnered with the leading airbrush brands including Airbase and Temptu, and holds its own through the Lovemymakeup label.
LASHES Luscious Lashes International Eyelash Extensions (M2) invites visitors to join it for the company’s 10th appearance at Professional Beauty Johannesburg and to get access to deeply discounted eyelash extension courses and products. Training centres are situated in Cape Town, Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Garden Route, Mpumalanga, Seychelles and Mauritius. All franchise trainers have international certification in Classic and/
or Volume extensions. The Lash Collection (G26) will showcase the 100ml LC Foaming Cleanser, a first for The Lash Collection. Also to be highlighted is Heel Stoppers, direct from the UK as seen on Dragon’s Den. Lash and threading demos will be conducted on the stand. Flat lashes (flat in shape) allow for better adhesion, so a fuller look is created with very little weight. Xtreme Lashes SA (L11) will show off its entire retail line, as well as professional products. The company will conduct demos on how to utilise its entire range of products. A 15% discount on retail products will be offered, as well as a 10%
discount to stylists on their pricing structure.
PERMANENT MAKE-UP
Nouveau Contour (E27), an industry leader worldwide in permanent and re-constructive make-up in 26 countries, is now offering South Africa the best pigments, equipment and training at the Nouveau Academy. PB
treatment review - body contouring
41
An ‘elite’ treatment
Lelanie Cloete experiences two different BTL devices – the Exilis Elite and X-Wave Acoustic Therapy – to target the fat cells and cellulite on her thighs respectively.
W
hen I arrived at the Ageless Lasers medical aesthetics clinic in Hyde Park, Johannesburg, Branislav Sucˇanský of BTL Medical SA explained that the Exilis Elite is a monopolar radiofrequency (RF) slimming device. “The heat generated by the RF has two effects; firstly it pushes heat deep into the fat cells, thereby destroying them. Animal studies have proved that up to 50% of the fat cells in the focus of the treated area are destroyed during this treatment. Secondly, the RF heat stimulates the production of new collagen. “BTL has developed a unique cooling system for the Exilis Elite, which allows the therapist to target the fat deposits on the body accurately. We can deliver heat of up to 45-46 degrees centigrade into the focus point of the treatment area (ie. 2cm below the skin),” said Sucˇanský. To commence the treatment, he attached a grounding pad to my lower back, to act as an exit point for the electric current released by the device. The beginning of the treatment felt cool but I could feel the heat building up quickly. Sucˇanský stressed that it is up to the therapist performing the treatment to monitor the patient’s tolerance to the heat throughout the session. The moment I felt the heat too keenly, I asked Sucˇanský to reduce the temperature accordingly. Once my right thigh was completed after a 10-minute session, I was asked to look into a mirror and compare the treated side to the untreated side. I could definitely see a slight reduction in my saddle bag on the treated thigh. Between four and six treatments on
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the Exilis Elite are recommended for best results.
Riding the ‘wave’
“BTL has developed a unique cooling system for the Exilis Elite, which allows the therapist to target the fat deposits on the body accurately.”
Exilis Elite
Branislav Sucˇanský
Sucˇanský explained that the BTL X-Wave Optimal Acoustic Wave Therapy device is ideal for treating cellulite. “The X-Wave, which works with sound wave technology, was originally developed by BTL for muscle and joint treatments, but it soon became evident that the device was also very effective for cellulite and stretch marks.” I was interested to find that the X-Wave, which has a jackhammer action, felt similar to a deep tissue massage. Sucˇanský treated my left thigh with the X-Wave, while noting that medical studies have proved that eight treatments with the X-Wave will improve the skin’s elasticity by 100% for the next six months. “The acoustic waves work on collagen and elastin – a very strong wave enters the body, relaxes it and
X-Wave
gets rid of toxins, thus improving metabolism. X-Wave doesn’t kill fat cells, it is primarily a skin-tightening device,” he commented. Post-treatment I was delighted to see a definite improvement in the appearance of the cellulite on my right thigh, plus my trousers didn’t feel as tight as before the treatment. PB Contact: BTL Medical 076 232 80 58
Professional Beauty August 2016
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Grow Your Business with Viora! Viora’s V30 Platform can Revolutionize Your Aesthetic Practice By delivering Nd:YAG laser, IPL with PCR™ technology, Fractional RF with Viora’s proprietary CORE™ technology, Skin Tightening with SVC™ technology and V-Form Body Contouring via five interchangeable hand pieces, the V30 Platform gives you the flexibility to grow your business at your own pace. Treat the most requested aesthetic procedures (more than 30 indications) via one safe and clinically proven effective device, while benefiting from Viora’s unique combination protocols for superior results and the ultimate patient satisfaction.
FORM
Nd:YAG Vascular Lesions Skin Rejuvenation Focused Hair Removal for Dark Skin
5 Interchangeable filters for Full Range of IPL treatments
Multi-Radio Frequency for non-invasive facial and body skin tightening for ALL skin types
Fractional multi-RF for skin resurfacing and rejuvenation, acne scar clearance, wrinkle reduction and pigmentation on ALL skin types
Largest Body Contouring treatment head with 6 electrodes delivering Multi-CORE Technology
Shape the future with Viora V30 for infinite treatment possibilities! Tel: 012 349 1250 | Email: medilase@mweb.co.za www.medilase.co.za
Find us on Facebook: Medilase SA
treatment review - anti-ageing
43
A pleasant surprise Carina Hugo, owner of Beauty Inn in Pretoria, discovers the efficacy and safety of a Viora V30 anti-ageing skin treatment.
A
s a salon owner for more than 25 years, I have seen many major problems caused by energy-based treatments gone wrong. This made me cautious to submit to any such treatments. Therefore, before having a skin tightening treatment offered to me by The Hitech Group, I asked Viora clinical director, Dr Inna Belenky, to describe the technology of the Viora V30, the procedures, outcomes and any possible problems I might encounter. Dr Belenky visited South Africa recently to present at AMCSA and to train a dermatologist who will do clinical studies for Viora. I learnt that the V30 is equipped with four hand pieces: skin tightening, Fractional RF (radiofrequency), IPL (intense pulsed light) and Nd:YAG. From this single system a salon can offer clients an array of treatments. Dr Belenky performed a test procedure to minimise the possibility of any side effects. My first of two sessions was a multi-frequency RF facial skin tightening treatment with the V-ST hand piece, which delivers RF to the underlying layers of the skin
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utilising proprietary C O R E technology. This has three distinct RF frequencies, with a fourth multi-channel mode that employs all three frequencies, giving the V-ST a competitive advantage. My skin was first marked, followed by the application of ultrasound gel for comfort and safety. The treatment itself is such a warm, pleasant, pain free and relaxing sensation that I fell asleep. It is truly scary to see the immediate difference between the treated side of your face compared to the untreated side. The lifting and tightening was visually noticeable and my skin felt tighter and rejuvenated. There was no downtime, with only a bit of redness on the skin. RF energy causes oscillation of molecules, resulting in heat generation. Viora’s Bipolar RF energy uses two electrodes, with treatment effects taking place between them. Heating leads to increased blood micro circulation, and increased elasticity of connective tissue (by collagen remodelling, collagen denaturation and fibroblast stimulation). Since RF energy produces an electrical current instead of a light source, tissue damage is minimised and epidermal melanin is not compromised. RF energy can be used on all skin types and allows for different depths of penetration, based on what is to be treated. My second Viora session was performed with the V-IPL hand piece to treat a few brown spots
and my freckled arms. The V-IPL has five interchangeable filters and two different spot sizes, ensuring complete treatment coverage for all skin types and conditions. Patient comfort is ensured with the contact cooling in the treatment head and the specific adjustment of the treatment parameters, so only the targeted area is influenced. With its far-reaching wave-lengths, IPL light penetrates the skin, heating up targeted brown spots and destroying them. My treatment was very effective as, after the darkening of the brown spots which exfoliated within a few days, my skin looked and felt brand new. I am looking forward to the followup treatments. PB Contact The Hitech Group Tel: 012 349 1250
Professional Beauty August 2016
sun protection
44
Walking on Sunshine Even before today’s era of dire ozone depletion, guarding the face and body from the adverse effects of sunlight has long been a primary concern to prevent skin cancer and the premature wrinkling of the skin.
S
unscreen can be defined as any substance that protects the skin from UV radiation. It is typically available in the forms of topical lotion, cream, ointment, gel or spray. As Ursula Hunt of DermaFix points out, physical sunscreens provide UV protection by reflecting or scattering these rays away from the surface of the skin, while chemical sunscreens work by absorbing and converting UV radiation into a safer form of energy and releasing it as heat from the skin. She continues: “Both physical and chemical sunscreens can be formulated to provide both high UVA/UVB protection, and choosing between them will largely depend on your skin type as well as lifestyle habits. Physical sunscreens are applied as a ‘barrier-layer’ onto the skin and naturally provide higher levels of protection against both UVA and UVB radiation. This means that fewer actives are required to maintain UV protection, making them gentler on the skin and therefore more suited to sensitive or reactive skin types. “Chemical sunscreens are more lightweight in formulation and therefore spread easily onto the skin.
Professional Beauty August 2016
They usually contain a combination of active ingredients in order to be able to provide both high UVA and UVB protection, meaning that while they can suit a variety of needs, they are less likely to be tolerated by sensitive skin types and may cause irritation. “The value of SPF (sun-protection factor) that a sunscreen product offers is a reflection of time rather than coverage percentage. This means that the higher a SPF value is, the longer you will be protected before needing to re-apply your sunscreen. Bear in mind though, that physical sunscreens rub-off easily, while chemical sunscreens degrade faster on exposure to UV. This means that reapplication of your sunscreen product might need to occur more frequently.”
DermaFix - DermaShield SPF 50
Applications According to the experts at The International Dermal Institute, a physical sunscreen is best to use when the skin has been through trauma, such as chemical peeling or ablative treatments, whereas a chemical sunscreen is best when used every day. They say: “The combination of both in one product offers both a long-term protection benefit with cosmetically
DermaFix MD Prescriptives DNA Protection
online at www.probeauty.co.za
sun protection
45 friendly benefits, such as a non-greasy feel and nonwhitening. We believe that the minimum SPF to use on a daily basis when outdoors is an SPF15 (broad spectrum that protects against all UV type rays) and no lower. “However, we recommend a minimum SPF of 50 (broad spectrum that protects against all UV type rays) in the following cases: when exposed to direct sunlight for a period of time; if the skin is sun-damaged already; if the skin is treated with chemical peels or ablative treatments; and if hyper-pigmentation is a concern. In such cases the skin’s natural protection barrier is impaired and would need more support in the form of a higher protection. “An added benefit would be to use a serum/additive/ sunscreen that contains anti-oxidants, as this supports the functioning of an SPF and will offer protection against environmental factors, which can be just as damaging, if not more so, than UV.”
‘RAD-ical’ approach Environ’s RAD SPF15 is a face and body sunscreen that contains physical and chemical sunscreens to protect against UV rays, as well as an added anti-oxidant. Says Environ national educator, Qanita Jacobs: “This product will protect the skin from harsh environmental influences and damaging sun rays. It has a smooth satin after-feel. We’ve included an anti-oxidant in this product to act as a free radical scavenger to combat the free radicals which may be caused by sun exposure “Environ also has the Alpha Day Lotion SPF15, specially formulated for the face and body. This, too, consists of physical and chemical sunscreens, as well as lactic acid to protect the skin from damaging effects caused by the sun. “We are comfortable with our sunscreen at SPF 15, as we endorse re-application of R
Environ RAD
Environ Alpha Day Lotion
Professional Beauty August 2016
sun protection
46 an SPF every one-and-a-half hours to two hours, rather than using too many ingredients to increase the SPF factor.”
The ‘Shield’ DermaFix DermaShield SPF 50 is SANS 1557:2013 and ISO 24444, ISO 24443 approved, and makes use of both physical and chemical sunscreen ingredients, providing high UVA and high UVB protection. This product further offers water resistance for up to 40 minutes, making this a highly effective, long-lasting sun protection product suited to all skin types. “The addition of MD Prescriptives DNA Protection with Telosense, used alongside DermaFix DermaShield SPF 50, provides additional protection against DNA degradation that contributes towards cellular senescence and skin ageing,” explains DermaFix’s Ursula Hunt.
Oceanic microorganism Ericson Laboratoire’s new range of advanced sun care products, Derma Sun, offers broad anti-UVA/UVB protection due to photostable filters that effectively neutralise the sun’s rays on the surface of the skin. Say the experts at Ericson Laboratoire: “This performance is due to the combination of a powerful tanning accelerator and an anti-ageing, heat-activated molecule that ensures adaptable protection from the harmful rays of sunshine. “Our laboratories began studying Thermus Thermophilus, a microorganism from the depths of the ocean which lives near underwater volcanoes and is able to resist temperatures of over 70°C. They extracted a new molecule from it, which enabled them to transpose its adaptation and self-protection abilities at skin level. Integrated into all formulae of the range, this molecule, which is greatly stimulated by the effect of heat, optimises the skin’s self-defence system during exposure to the sun.”
Anti-sand technology The Six Broad Spectrum Sun Protection is positioned as a one-of-a-kind sunscreen. Six’s Marisa Dimitriadis explains: “It is the only anti-sand technology sunblock available globally. This means that no dust, sand or anything sticks to it, unlike normal sun blocks.
Professional Beauty August 2016
Lipidol Sunscreen Oil Ericson Laboratoire Derma Sun
“This product has a totally matt finish and makes for the perfect foundation primer. It does not make your skin ghostwhite and is perfect for use on babies from six months onwards. There is no oily shine or streaking on the face, just protection.”
Effective oil With an SPF of 20, the Lipidol Sunscreen Oil provides protection from UVA and UVB rays, while maintaining good skin health by supplementing the skin’s natural oily layer stripped away by the sun, wind and water. Contrary to popular belief, the notion that the sun’s rays are attracted to oils on the skin is untrue. John Knowlton, cosmetic scientist and owner of Cosmetic Solutions, explains that many of the safest and most effective sunscreen ingredients are in fact oil-soluble. “This means that oil-based skincare products represent the ideal vehicle for applying them evenly to the skin. The fact that Lipidol Sunscreen Oil has the ability to form a continuous film over the skin’s surface means that it is highly effective in protecting the skin against the sun’s harmful rays. In addition to this, Lipidol Sunscreen Oil prevents skin dehydration and doesn’t leave a white film on the skin, making it a great daily moisturiser,” says Knowlton.
Six Sun protection
Protective gel Juliette Armand’s SunFilm Face Gel SPF 30 is a soothing, tinted sun gel with a delicate non-oily feel. Says Janine Janse van Rensburg of Poise Brands: “Juliette Armand was the first company to develop a gel-based sunscreen. This product is ideal for sensitive and oily skin as well as children. Furthermore it is great for use after peels as it offers 96% protection.” PB
Juliette Armand SUNFILM FACE GEL SPF30
online at www.probeauty.co.za
47
Before
After
Advanced Therapist and Medical Aesthetic Seminar Book your place for only R50.00 per session FIVE SESSIONS@ 1h30 each Total Education Hours: 7h30
This programme is aimed at therapists who want to expand their knowledge and keep abreast of new technologies in advanced aesthetic treatments and industry trends. Programme and speakers are subject to change
Sunday, 28 August Evolution of the Industry 10:30 – 12:00 With many therapists working in doctors’ practices and skincare treatments becoming more advanced and in some cases more higher risk than ever before, what are the rules and how does the skincare therapist keep their identity? Panel discussion
• The importance of skincare therapists and the role they play in a medical aesthetic practice Doctor’s perspective.
Dr Anushka Reddy
• The role of a skincare therapist and the importance of continued learning and the importance of remembering our identity Therapist’s perspective – Helene Bramwell (past president CIDESCO) & Tracy Chambers (past president SAAHSP)
• “Therapists and doctors working together: what does the law say and ultimately who takes responsibility if things should go wrong?” Ulundi Behrtel (Legal expert)
The importance of correct skin analysis and the role it plays in remedial skin care 13:30 – 15:00 • Analysis of the skin through the use of modern diagnostic tools, including an interactive demonstration. Christina Bowman
• Recognising skin lesions: Which blemishes can somatologists treat? Janine Thomson
• The ancient art of Chinese Facial Diagnosis and how it can assist with modern day skin analysis. Charlene Weidner
Hot Topics in Anti-Ageing 15:30 – 17:00 • Hormone balance and healthy ageing. Dr Tharique Bux
• Anti-ageing Medication – Metformin/ Glucophage Metformin is a cheap mass produced anti diabetic pill that suddenly has the medical world excited with its proposed ability to extend lifespan (health span) to a good 120 years. Dr Janine Oliver
• Aesthetic wound healing and scar management applications after invasive procedures and treatments. Dr Judey Pretorius
Monday, 29 August Cosmeceuticals and Treatments 10:30 – 12:00 • Polypeptides and Aesthetics – the perfect partnership. Dr Robert Gobac
• The Role of Probiotics in Antiageing Skincare. Trevor Steyn
• Cupping - the latest treatment in wrinkle reversal. Dr Kateryna Tsvietkova (demo)
Areas of Speciality 13:30 - 15:00 • The return of the electrologist – why this speciality has returned and how the technology has changed. Tzvia Hermann
• Laser - drawing the line between beauty, aesthetics, & medical. Mazanne van Staden
• Tattoo removal – what is available and how effective is it? Suzanne Albertinger
As part of:
Date: 28 & 29 August 2016 Venue: Gallagher Convention Centre
JOHANNESBURG
28 & 29 AUGUST 2016
Opening Times: Sunday 10h00 – 17h00 Monday 10h00 – 16h00
product focus
49
On the bright side A glowing, radiant complexion with an even tone denotes a healthy skin, hence the importance of skin-brightening products that clear pores, exfoliate dead skin cells and reveal the fresh skin beneath.
Polish perfect DermaFix DermaPolish is a mild enzymatic exfoliator containing liquorice and papain extracts to brighten the skin, whilst gently removing redundant skin cell build-up. Adding Vitamin C-rich products like DermaFix Vitamin C Serum, DermaFix ACC Vitamin C and DermaFix C-Spritz to your skincare routine further promotes skin-brightening. 0861 28 23 23
Double whammy The Six Brightening Peel Off Mask is enriched with Saxifrage extracts, grape extracts, mulberry extracts and Scutelleria Root extract. Six’s Brightening & Even Tone Booster Elixir Serum is formulated as a biphasic gel with cucumber, white mulberry and hibiscus, focusing on increasing cell turnover, which is key to brightening the skin. 011 312 7840
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Lighten up Dr Gobac Lighten effectively targets unwanted pigmentation. This gentle treatment is safe for long-term use and during pregnancy. The complex formulation of active ingredients and botanical extracts (which include Arbutin) has a strong anti-inflammatory effect on the skin and is known to reduce unwanted pigmentation. 011 314 9222
R
Professional Beauty August 2016
product focus
50 Big boost
SKNlogic Boost is a concentrated brightening and rejuvenating cream that combats prematurely ageing skin conditions, while it repairs, protects and brightens dull and tired skin. Infused with apple extract and a powerful anti-oxidant blend of Vitamins C and E, it also contains hydrolysed collagen, sunflower oil, olive oil and citric acid. 021 552 6999
Radiant times
Reversive Supreme Glow Anti-Aging Cream from Babor includes Lumicol, an effective, active ingredient that boosts luminosity. Babor’s Re-Youth Complex is formulated with four effective components that extend the lifecycle of skin cells and protect against premature ageing, with special glow-tech pigments that reflect light for radiant skin. 011 467 0110
‘Meso-like’ effect Ericson Laboratoire has created MESO-VIT, a new specialised skincare treatment along the lines of non-invasive cosmetic medicine, to be used either as a ‘meso-like’ effect (a replacement treatment) or a ‘meso-care’ effect (a complementary treatment to the micro-injections as used in mesotherapy). 011 783 9817
Masque magic
Serum sense
Environ’s Revival Masque contains a complex of alpha hydroxy acids that rejuvenate and hydrate the skin. The skin will be left looking smooth, even and radiant. For glowing skin Environ also recommends C-Boost, C-Quence Serums and the original Vitamin A moisturisers. 0800 220 402
Dermalogica’s C-12 pure bright serum contains Oligopeptide 51 to reduce melanin/pigment formation and transfer, while Oligopeptide 34 and Zinc glycinate diminish the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme that triggers pigment production. C-12 contains cross-linked Hyaluronic acid for hydration and fermented pumpkin fruit extract. 011 268 0018
Professional Beauty August 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
#oftencopiednevermatched
AMPOULE CONCENTRATES FP babor.co.za
BABOR South Africa Telephone: 011 467 0110 • Email: babor.sa@babor.co.za • Website: www.babor.co.za
medical aesthetics
52
EYES WIDE OPEN Eyes are the window to the soul and ideally they should be surrounded by young, firm, wrinkle-free skin, writes Karen Ellithorne.
T
he skin around the eyes is generally 10 times thinner than the skin on the face so, as a result, it is this area that will age prematurely due to ultra-violet-ray exposure. Over time the continued exposure breaks down the collagen and elastin and leads to the formation of fine lines, wrinkles and crow’s feet. Other eye conditions that can age a person dramatically and make them
Professional Beauty August 2016
appear unhealthy are drooping eye lids, dark circles and sunken eyes. In this feature we are going to take a look at some medical techniques that can be applied by medical aesthetic practitioners to improve the eye contour.
Blepharoplasty This is still a very popular cosmetic procedure, but statistics show that the number of procedures has decreased due to people opting for a less invasive option. However, having said this, blepharoplasty may still be the best solution for certain individuals. Dr Anton Potgieter, a plastic and reconstructive surgeon based in Sandton, says that surgery to the skin and peri-orbital structures is one of the most accessible and costeffective facial surgeries available. It addresses excess skin of the lids, ‘bulging fat’ and loose muscle around the eyes. “The best candidates for the surgery are generally women from 40 upwards with ’tired eyes', but women of any age can be affected by this condition,” says Potgieter. “Scars are
hidden in the creases of the eyelids and normally heal very well. “This surgical procedure usually takes between 60 and 90 minutes to perform, depending on the complexity, and can be done as a day case procedure. The recovery takes from seven to 10 days. If bruising occurs, it may be visible for up to two weeks. “The downtime for a blepharoplasty is approximately 10 to 14 days, although some patients are back at work after as little as five to seven days.”
Dermal fillers Dr Marshall Murdoch, a plastic and reconstructive surgeon based at the Donald Gordon Medical Centre in Parktown, says that dermal fillers can be used effectively to treat dark circles and sunken eyes. “Two areas need to be treated when considering this option,” he says. “The deep cheek fat situated in the mid-face, below the dark circle, is almost always treated first, as the mid-face is the aesthetic foundation of the eye. “Volume augmentation with
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medical aesthetics
53 hyaluronic acid filler is the treatment of choice. This area can be effectively treated by most practitioners. Dermal filler to the tear trough and palpebromalar groove needs precise placement and is technically very challenging. Under-correction by 20%, with additional follow-up filler treatments, is recommended. “There are a wide variety of techniques described in the medical literature around this procedure, but it is my practice to place filler just above the bone.”
Botulinum toxin When injected around the crow’s feet, Botulinum toxin will prevent the muscles from moving, and therefore prevent the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. Botulinum toxin injected with fillers does assist in extending the life of the dermal fillers, as the muscles will be paralysed and the continued muscle movements will not break down the dermal fillers and therefore can assist them in lasting longer. “We can also use Botulinum toxin to elevate the eyebrows. This can improve the appearance of excessive eyelid skin and helps to give an attractive, wide-awake look to eyes that are looking tired,” say the experts at Laserderm, a branch of clinics specialising in skincare, antiageing treatments and non-surgical cosmetic treatment.
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Peeling and micro-needling “A TCA (trichloracetic acid) peel is the best type of peel to do on the delicate eye area, as hydroxy acids don’t seem to be very effective,” says Sonette Donker from Skin iD. “TCA helps to coagulate the damaged protein (cells) and stimulate skin regeneration.” She recommends doing a course of four treatments at bi-weekly intervals. “The wonderful thing about TCA is that you can apply more layers or increase the percentage strength of the acid, so every treatment can be different, Sun protection and post-peel care is vital for the delicate eye area’s full recovery.” Donker also suggests combining micro-needling and peeling. “It is also very effective on a very aged eye area with age spots, deep wrinkling and general sagging.”
Botulinum toxin injected with fillers does assist in extending the life of the dermal fillers, as the muscles will be paralysed.
Technology Radiofrequency and ultra-sound devices like the BTL Exilis can be very successful in treating fine lines, wrinkles and hooded eyelids, with long-lasting results after just one treatment. You cannot treat the eyelid itself, however the handheld device can be moved over the upper eye bone and R
Professional Beauty August 2016
medical aesthetics
54
sides and when it comes to below the eye – as close as one can get without causing discomfort for the client. The treatment itself takes around six to seven minutes. Plexr is a new medical device that has recently been launched in South Africa. This piece of equipment can treat a vast number of indications, but one of the most exciting things about it is its ability to perform a nonablative blepharoplasty. “An eye lift can take years off your face, but, because of the surgical risks,
Professional Beauty August 2016
it's an aesthetic concern commonly left untreated,” says Dr Johan Both, the owner of Leenxy. “The Plexr eye lift is safe, quick and delivers almost instant results. Furthermore, a Plexr treatment can address aesthetic issues of the upper and lower lids and it can be used to erase permanent expression lines around the eyes,” he continues. This technology utilises plasma energy. “Plasma is also known as the fourth state of matter but in reality it is nothing but a tiny arc of lightening and is used to sublimate superficial skin and mucosal lesions. Sublimation means that the superficial layers of the epidermis are turned into vapour,” says Botha. Laserderm says that they have patients who often complain of dark circles under their eyes, as well as puffiness, commonly referred to as ‘raccoon eyes’. This phenomenon is mostly due to congestion of the capillary system of the lower eyelids. Congestion leads to accumulation of deoxygenated blood in vascular pools. During Carboxytherapy treatments, therapeutic doses of CO2 are introduced under the skin using a small needle. Through a natural physiological process, the body recognises the higher CO2 levels and immediately delivers more oxygen to the treatment area. The O2 increases blood flow, which clears the congestion, while at the same time improving the capillary system. Carboxytherapy also boosts dermal collagen production and improves the quality and strength of fragile eyelid skin. Cherie Cochrane, a laser specialist from Dermology Clinic in Sandton, talks about Erbium resurfacing. “This is one of the gold standards in cosmetic non-surgical treatments for tightening and eliminating wrinkles and reversing the signs of sun damage. The Sciton TRL laser allows us to customise the depth of treatment to fit the patient’s available downtime and desired outcome. One of the most amazing results we have seen lately is with lower eyelid resurfacing.” Cochrane says that many people have a loss of elasticity or ‘snap’ to the lower eyelids and fine lines that
Plasma is also known as the fourth state of matter but in reality it is nothing but a tiny arc of lightening and is used to sublimate superficial skin and mucosal lesions.
cannot be treated with things such as Botox. For many years the only way to treat this area was a lower eyelid surgery. “However, we have some customers who aren’t quite ready for surgery or the laxity of the skin is not severe enough for surgery yet, and having a non-surgical laser treatment that yields significant tightening has ‘bought some time’ for these patients,” explains Cochrane. The client can expect a week of social downtime, where the treated area appears red, like sunburn, and requires ointment to be applied for the first few days after treatment. “There is very little to no pain, although swelling can be significant the first few days after the treatment,” cautions Cochrane. “Patients can see an immediate tightening effect and an improvement in wrinkles after one treatment and results continue to improve, up to six months, due to the increased collagen production in the area.”
Cosmeceutical products There are many different products and ingredients on the market that can help smooth and reduce undereye wrinkles, namely retinol, Vitamin C, peptides and stem cell. Eye creams and treatments can help to firm the eye area and soften the wrinkles and also play a strong role in the prevention of wrinkle development. When these products are used in conjunction with the abovementioned aesthetic treatments at home on a regular basis, they can help to greatly intensify and prolong the in-clinic results achieved. PB
online at www.probeauty.co.za
nails
55
Get into the groove and make a colour statement Sonette van Rensburg looks at the Spring/Summer 2016 nail colours and trends.
W
ith the promise of clear blue skies, bright sunshine and warmer days, the upcoming Spring/Summer season’s colours represent a transformative canvas, in a fusion of the prettiest and most daring shades and striking contrasts, opening up a whole new dimension and a plethora of fashion trends. Inspired not only by the top Pantone shades of the year, but also transporting us to a cheerful, energetic place, the colours offer the opportunity to explore and express your creativity, creating nail looks with no rules and that exude a feeling of light-hearted playfulness and carefree spiritedness.
“We not only see colour, we experience and feel colour,” says Leatrice Eiseman, director of the Pantone Colour Institute. Let’s see what we have to look forward to, in a range of the trendiest, most exciting explosion of buoyant colours, cool lively patterns and groovy styles. Let your nails do the talking in an abundance of nail colour collections of the liveliest, vibrant captivating hues and edgy looks that are sure to make a statement. Turn on the heat and feel the beat, in street vibe colours with attitude. Vu Nguyen has some great custom design ideas, especially for when you can’t pick just one colour. So why not wear them all and swirl them together for a fun, funky fabulous manicure that will have you street styling? Or, have a ‘block party’ on your nails and get a fresh new perspective with colour blocking in monochromatic pinks and bright pops of contrasting colours.
Intoxicating effect Colours can intoxicate our senses in a variety of ways, associating with and incorporating smells, feelings and tastes, especially with a Spring palette that looks like it has been chosen out of a colour patisserie and is good enough to eat. Dance the night away and be hot in the city as the Rio de Janeiro theme is a major highlight for 2016, a city that never sleeps and parties endlessly, with sexy beach fashions, inspiring the hottest and most gorgeous colours. Be the life of the party in dazzling and daring disco shades for the woman
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with everywhere to go and colours that will make a visual noise. Introduce active elements into the mix with a bit of glitter, evoking a feeling of euphoria, danger and possibility. Be adventurous and take a trip down memory lane to New Orleans, a splendid and mesmerising place with a down to earth charismatic charm and diverse culture. Revel in the laid back atmosphere, where you can enjoy a cocktail on Bourbon Street and sway to the soulful rhythm of the blues and sounds of jazz, or try ‘The Big Easy’s’ world famous cuisine. Be sophisticated, classy, flirty and fun, or whatever you want to be, in a collection of the most vibrant and varied shades ever, that exude absolute class and confidence and that are inspired by the R celebration of life.
Professional Beauty August 2016
nails
56 Collections
Gelish and Morgan Taylor – turn up your boom box with this exciting and bold, hip hop summer collection – Street Beat. This assortment of vibrant colours includes six new vivid shades, which bring together a street style look that totally rocks. Hip Hot Coral (crisp and striking with a hint of shimmer); Give Me a Break Dance (fierce teal); Tag You’re It (powerful pink pearl); Cou-ture the streets (lively lilac); B-girl Style (girly pink); and Street Credible (wild style yellow orange crème).
LCN – The Candy Shop colour collection looks like dessert – delicious, tasty and made to seduce. You can help yourself from the sweet display to your heart’s delight without a guilty conscience, even during bikini season. With colours like Cotton Candy, which promises to be a sweet delight, or something a little more fruity, like Grape Sorbet. Who doesn’t like the rich red velvet of Cake Pop, a fabulous fuschia red, or the delicious flavour of Bubblegum (a taste of melon), or the soft creaminess of Marshmallow.
The LCN Copacabana Summer Collection shouts Viva Brazil! A white dream beach, aquamarine blue water and pulsating energy – all this is portrayed by the world famous Copacabana. Pure love of life is what awaits us this summer. LCN invites you to dance at the Banana
Beach in your Hot Tankini, and maybe you will discover Copacabana Gold. Fall in Rio Love while doing the Wild Samba and eating Tropical Fruit. Both Candy Shop and Copacabana collections are available in polish, colour gel and Recolution gel polish.
Bio Sculpture - be bold, daring and uncompromisingly cool in Bio Sculpture’s Disco Dolly collection, aimed at women who dress to impress with killer nails. This season is not the season for the shrinking violet. From aluminium organza to neon lace, it’s the season for the fiercest party animals imaginable, available in four of the most vivacious shades that are sure to make heads turn. All Nighter (an aqua shade that is cool, calm and collected); Party Animal (a powerful shade of pink loaded with adrenalin); Turn up The
Volume (rock the neon trend in this wearable shade of orange); and Glitter Bug (inspired by a mix of street culture and fashion).
OPI – the New Orleans collection features 12 gorgeous new nail lacquers and matching gel colours. With shades like I Manicure For Beads (luscious purple crème); Let Me Bayou a Drink (refreshing blush pink); Suzi Nails New Orleans (light bright pink hits the spot for chic); Humidi-tea (nude shimmer); Spare me a French Quarter (mellowed raspberry crème); She’s a bad Muffuletta (red hot crème); Got myself into a Jam-balaya (yummy mélange of spice and creamy peach); Crawfishin’ for a Compliment (light creamy orange); Take a Right on Bourbon (intoxicatingly warm metallic pewter), Rich Girls and Po-boys (China blue crème); Show us your tips (periwinkle); and I’m Sooo Swamped (verdant creamy green).
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 27 years. She trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. Email: sonettevr@gmail.com
Professional Beauty August 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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salon africa
59
When hair takes CENTRE STAGE
Salon Africa, formerly known as Professional Hair, runs alongside the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo on 28 and 29 September at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand. Here are just some of the exciting brands that will be showcased. Beard Boys Grooming (stand F15) will be launching its all new skincare range in addition to showcasing its existing grooming products for men. Special show offers will be available.
Bliss (C15) strives to offer human hair of unmatched quality and style, in both design and performance. The company will showcase the newly launched Emerald products at Salon Africa. On G17 Bump Patrol will showcase its products and engage in male grooming dialogues that will both educate and R advise visitors to the stand.
Visitors to the Bigen Hair Dye stand (M7) can purchase a hamper and be entered to win various prizes every four hours. Bigen Ladies will mingle with the crowds and hand out fun promos.
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Professional Beauty August 2016
salon africa
60 sharing natural styling tips. By popular demand, Moroccanoil (E7) returns to Professional Beauty this year. Visitors can experience the newest innovation in Moroccanoil products that have been launched this year, including Dry Shampoo in two tones, Blow Dry Concentrate and Extra Strong Hairspray. The original Moroccanoil Treatment – the foundation in oil-infused haircare – will
also be showcased.
DLT Media (G24) offers hair and beauty salons in South Africa an easy way to buy multiple magazine subscriptions for their reception area with permanent discounts of up to 60% off cover prices. All magazines are upto-date. Magazine racks and displays also available. Easy Waves from Amka Products will host a mini hair makeover section on stand G13 to educate the crowd at large about what Easy Waves is and what products it has in the range. This will give show visitors a chance to get their hair styled with an Easy Waves product, accompanied by sample giveaways. ESP Salon & Spa Software (A2) will introduce its new convenient and efficient cloud based software, incorporating all the inherent knowledge, reliability, safety and expertise that ESP clients have come to expect.
unquestionable quality. HeadStart (F17) is an easy to use software package that assists in managing your salon operations – from appointment scheduling to client
marketing to tracking stock usage. On stand J10, Jabu Stone will be showcasing his products as well as launching The Theatre of Hair series, conducting demonstrations and
Punked Neon Hair Dye Colours (F13) bring out beauty of the wearer while adding depth and shine to the style. Conditioning protein agents that form part of the Punked Neon Hair Dye Formula add shine and improve style manageability while colour is deposited on the hair. Punked Neon Hair Dye Semi-permanents also provide an ideal solution for livening up faded mid-lengths and for clients who have permanent colour. Radical Edge (G22) will offer professional, expert scissor servicing and sharpening at the show. Visitors are invited to bring their scissors to the stand and have them serviced while they take in the show. SA Hairdressers Journal (E15) is South Africa’s only trade magazine dedicated exclusively to the professional hairdressing industry. SAHJ provides the industry with essential information, latest trends, local/international news, business advice, styles pages, step-bysteps, new product info, target specific supplements, an industry directory and the IMAGE styles catalogue. PB
Glamour Hair Emporium (F23) is a premier supplier of quality human hair extensions and one of the first suppliers of Nano Human Hair Extensions. The company supplies premium quality Weaves, Wigs, Clipons, Micro-Ring, U-Tip and I-Tip, as well as hair equipment and accessories of
Professional Beauty August 2016
With its wide range of oils and pomades to treat most scalp and hair issues, the MPL (J16) brand has developed a new and improved range of oil and cream hair care products. These contain a variety of herbs and essential oils, adding extra benefits to help strengthen, condition and maintain healthier hair.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
product news
61
In the market
The Inhibitor Serum uses the most advanced formula based on freeze-dried papain, a potent enzyme derived from raw papaya. This enzyme helps to break down the hair follicles, slowing down the rate of hair re-growth and killing the cells before they can reproduce. Thus the serum can effectively counteract re-growth. 021 931 6775
r
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Sensitive tints
Retarding hair growth
Introducing the RefectoCil Sensitive Range of eyebrow and eyelash tints based on plant extracts, which are dermatologically and ophthalmologically tested for sensitive skin ensuring no irritation. Application is a two-step tinting process that takes only three minutes to accentuate eyes. Colours are Black, Light, Medium or Dark Brown. 082 575 6567
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Detoxifying cleanser
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DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care has introduced the Pumpkin Peptide Masque, an antioxidant-rich, thermo masque that assists in removing redundant skin cells. It offers retexturising benefits whilst resurfacing the skin and encouraging cellular turnover. This masque is suited towards anti-ageing, hyperpigmentation and breakout-prone skin. 0861 28 23 23
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Pumpkin power
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Our round-up of newly launched products.
The new Doctor Babor Refine Cellular Detox Lipo Cleanser combines the LipoTherm formula with a powerful detoxifying effect to create a gentle facial cleanser with a supercleansing action. The result, lipid-based deep-pore cleansing coupled with an intensive thermal effect. 011 467 0110
Professional Beauty August 2016
product news
62
r
The optiphi Hydration Tint Broad Spectrum SPF 20 offers a breathable, light to medium coverage with mattifying, skin brightening and anti-ageing benefits. Ingredients include Vitamin C (ascorbic acid), Vitamin B3 (niacinamide), Imperata Cylindrica and Hyaluronic Acid. Hydration Tint comes three shades – Light, Medium and Dark. 012 667 6244
Smooth operator
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Tinted moisturiser
Derma Liss from Guinot visibly smoothes and minimises wrinkles and lines, while tightening pores and covering blemishes. The key active ingredients in this product are soft focus powder, hyaluronic acid spheres and Pore Perfector. 011 305 1600
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Manage your appointments
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Special offer on multiple bookings Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: alex@probeauty.co.za
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Professional Beauty August 2016
saahsp
64 South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals
Cidesco Section South Africa
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
SAAHSP AGM and Board Strategy Meeting SAAHSP held their Annual General Meeting (AGM) on 20 June 2016 at Camelot International, Houghton.
I
ncorporated into the AGM programme was an informative workshop for members of SAAHSP, to provide them with the opportunity to obtain CPD (Continuous Professional Development) points. Dr Judey Pretorius did a presentation on Beauty Facts and Fiction surrounding product ingredients which was fascinating to all attendees. AGM information was presented to the members and SAAHSP board members reported back on their respective portfolios. Menna Kleine, president, stressed the need to increase our membership numbers, but also to retain the clients / members we already have. Among the ideas discussed are to attract the influential corporate and industry leaders that have amazing talented teams who deal with therapists and salon owners. Sandra Rath, membership coordinator, initiated investigations to offer members employee benefits such as Pension schemes and Medical funds. Once more information is received, SAAHSP will syndicate it to all members. Elna Hagen provided feedback on the Professional Body status of SAAHSP, focusing on Designations therapists will receive, including CPD. SAAHSP is looking at simplifying how to achieve CPD Points. Dawn Johansson described the new SAAHSP logo and website. Members’ feedback was very well received. We encourage you to like the SAAHSP Facebook page and visit the newly developed website on www.saahsp.com
Professional Beauty August 2016
Sandy Fuhr (Roy) presented very important information regarding the status regarding Allied Health Professions Council of South Africa (AHPCSA) in terms of their proposal to create a sub-register for Therapeutic Aromatherapy and Therapeutic Reflexology and maintaining their register for Therapeutic Massage. What is this about? ADJECTIVE of Therapeutic: Related to Medical Treatment or Healing of Disease. NOUN of Therapeutic: Branch of Medicine concerned with the treatment of Disease and the action of Remedial Agents. Therapeutic Effects hence require REGULAR and LONG TERM treatment. All of the above are not a part of our Scopes of Practise. Hence we do not practise Therapeutic modalities. We don’t claim to heal. We don’t claim to offer Medical treatments. We are not a branch of Medicine. We don’t work on Disease; We don’t offer Remedial treatments; We don’t require Regular and Long term treatments; We don’t diagnose. What would be required of you from AHPCSA? 1. Registration with AHPCSA; 2. Receive a Practice number to practice. This means: • Unable to share reception within Spa/ Salon/ Similar • Unable to practice in Salon/Spa/ Similar • Client becomes a Patient
• Unable to Retail our products – can keep certain products in a dispensary at the back • No treatment gift vouchers or courses – no payment in advance of treatment • Limited Advertising opportunities Work alone or with medical/Allied Health practitioner • May not partner with someone not registered as a practitioner under the AHPCSA or HPCSA Acts • Unable to employ someone unregistered or who is deregistered AHPCSA is encroaching on our skills Salons, clinics and SPA’s affected. This affects YOU and YOUR EMPLOYEES’ livelihood. We need to stand together to protect the Beauty and Skincare industry by standing together to keep ourselves out of the AHPCSA. A confederation has been formed with role players from all facets of our industry to assist the industry to maintain its own independent status. SAAHSP Board followed the AGM with a Strategic Indaba on the 21st June 2016 to create a Roadmap to Success for SAAHSP. Joining SAAHSP as a Professional Member or Corporate Member is as easy as 1-2-3. Contact us today to get your Membership Application Forms or download them from the website: www.saahsp.com
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