33 Business Trends Q&A
Treating African skin We asked medical doctor and aesthetician, Dr Zama Tladi, to expound on the characteristics of African skin, a skin type that she specialises in. How does African skin differ from Caucasian skin? African skin has more melanin in a form of Eumelanin, a type of brownish black melanin, as opposed to the reddish yellow Pheomelanin found in Caucasian skin. The African skin is slightly thicker than Caucasian skin due to this type of melanin. Why does African skin show age more slowly than Caucasian skin? African skin does age more slowly, due to the Eumelanin melanin that makes skin thicker and which is anti-ageing in nature. What is the most common skin concern of your clients? Pigmentation. The disadvantage of having Eumelanin is that it causes pigmentation, which results in uneven skin tone. So one must treat the existing inflammation that causes pigmentation after it has healed. When there is existing pigmentation, we remove it by a series of monthly exfoliation treatments, or we do chemical resurfacing treatments until the pigmentation is completely removed. What skincare ingredients do you recommend for African skin? Vitamin C, Retinoids/vitamin A, Niacinamide/vitamin B3, Kojic
acid, Azelaic acid and Mandelic acid are used for their antipigmenting benefits. What skincare ingredients should be avoided? Mechanical exfoliants, or any ingredient that causes inflammation of the skin, as the inflammation later results in pigmentation when it has healed. What are the most common misconceptions about treating African skin? A common misconception is thinking you don’t need to use sunscreen or sun protection, but the reality is that the UV rays from the sun inflame the skin, which further develops in pigmentation. Another misconception is that eye cream is not necessary, but eye cream has micro molecules that can penetrate the very thin skin around the eyes, giving it hydration to delay wrinkles. Some people think you only have to cleanse the face once a day, in the morning. However, during the day the skin is exposed to sweat, oiliness, environmental factors and makeup. Therefore skin also needs to be cleansed at night to clear dirt and prevent pores from being clogged. Please comment on the use of light- and energy-based devices
on the darker Fitzpatrick skin types. Some of these kinds of treatments have high energy that inflames the skin, causing further pigmentation. For example, some resurfacing laser treatments that are great for Caucasian skin, can in fact damage African skin and cause worse pigmenting. At my practice we don’t use laser treatments for African skin, but would rather resurface this type of skin chemically. We also use LED light therapy, which is very effective for darker skin types. Skin lightening is a taboo subject, but do some of your clients still seek a lighter complexion? We don’t promote or stock skin lightening treatments or products for ethical reasons and possible skin damaging issues. I prefer to educate our clients around underlying causes and risks and suggest healthier routes of treatment. At Nubian Medical Aesthetics, we recommend skin brightening treatments for uneven skin tones, which are very effective. Dr Zama Tladi started practising as a medical doctor in 2013, and over the years became passionate about skin health and aesthetic medicine. online @ probeauty.co.za
