July 2014
www.probeauty.co.za
Stripped down Peeling treatment reviews
The naked truth
Hands on
Massage therapies
Beyond borders
Exporting to Africa
Clash of
the Talons Nail competition preparation
Toxins & fillers
In this issue...
63
26
Regulars
Business
Medical Aesthetics
5 Industry news
17 Tapping into the big, wide world
63 Toxins & fillers – the lowdown
Local and international news
68 Product news
All the latest launches
61 Hair news
What’s hot and happening in the hair industry
70 SAAHSP
The latest news from SAAHSP
Reaching out to the African market
18 Franchisor’s four-year odyssey
Implementing change at Imbalie Beauty
20 Customer relations
Clients as business advisors
25 Business of Beauty Blog
42
Growing your company
Nails 56 Ready, set, go!
Competition readiness
Features 42 Well and truly peeled
Peeling aftercare
48 Devices in the spotlight
Spa Focus
26 The mysteries of massage revealed
34 Treatment Reviews
Weird and wonderful therapies
31 Spa life, airport style
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Questions and answers
Latest laser and IPL technologies Chemical peels
53 In the mood
Candles & oils
Camelot Spa at Phela-Live Wellness Centre
Professional Beauty July 2014
Welcome
W
ith so many locally produced skincare brands in South Africa (as featured in our March/April 2014 issue), it would be great to see each and every one of them exporting their wares abroad. An article in this issue reveals that the Department of Trade and Industry is particularly keen for South African beauty product brands to export to other African countries, with CECOSA (Cosmetic Export Council of South Africa) primed to advise companies on how to negotiate this challenging market. Following on from last month, where we focused on chemical peeling, this issue not only features treatment reviews of specific peels, as experienced by my colleagues, but offers invaluable advice for therapists on how clients should care for their skin, post-peel. Aftercare following a peel is absolutely critical, considering the vulnerability of the newly exposed skin. Meanwhile, back at the Professional Beauty offices, the count-down has begun to the industry’s biggest event of the year – the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, which runs from 31 August to 1 September at Gallagher Estate, Midrand. On a daily basis we take more and more calls from people enquiring about the show and our sales team is actively involved in advising their clients on how best to maximise their exhibition stands. A popular element of Professional Beauty Johannesburg is the Nail Competition. This issue reveals expert tips on how to have the edge on your competitors. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
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industry news
5
News
All the news and views from the world of beauty, spa and nails.
Natalie Smith, Emilie O’Neill and Noella Gabriel
Top Elemis execs visit SA
N
oella Gabriel, director of treatment, product development and training at luxury British brand Elemis, visited South Africa in early June. She was accompanied by senior international business manager, Emilie O’Neill, and international trainer, Natalie Smith. Gabriel, who last visited South Africa 10 years ago, told Professional Beauty that Elemis is now in 56 countries and on 130 cruise lines. “It is the number one leading spa brand for treatment innovation. Our treatments are the heartbeat
of Elemis and our commitment remains prescribing for the skin. “Elemis is all about great formulations and textures. We have two laboratories, one in Paris and the other in Southern England. Our product formulations team only takes the first extraction from plants and utilises the maximum activity of each plant. We search for ingredients globally and we source independently all the time,” said Gabriel. She noted that Elemis does 11 product launches a year. In 2014 Elemis is launching seven new BioTech facials. During her visit Gabriel also highlighted
the Pro-Collagen Super System, which is to arrive in South Africa in August. Talking about how the retail market increases brand awareness, Gabriel revealed that Elemis products will now be available for purchase at Edgars Stores. “The South African woman adores Elemis – there is amazing brand loyalty in this country. We believe the launch of BioTec, which is designed to reboot the cellular performance of the skin, will help to attract new clients,” concluded Gabriel. Elemis is distributed in South Africa by The Prestige Cosmetics Group.
News in pictures
Anesi incentive winner Dianne Van Der Heim Dianne Van Der Heim has won the Anesi Beaute Bootcamp incentive, which was based on retail sales and open to all Anesi stockists. Van Der Heim, a beauty therapist of 22 years standing, has worked with Anesi since the first product in the range was produced. “I’ve seen the Anesi range grow and develop through the years and it’s been a wonderful range to work with,” says Van Der Heim. “The
online at www.probeauty.co.za
results are always amazing and the innovation behind the range very inspiring. “Furthermore, the support from Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS), the distributor of Anesi in South Africa, has always been very professional and helpful. Their training is consistently informative and has helped me to keep abreast of new innovations and developments in the cosmetic industry.”
The Professional Beauty Network held its second Cape Town event of the year on 23 June at Barristers Restaurant in Newlands. Guest speakers were Hans Hoefnagels of Truth North Consulting, and Lika Bakkes, a brand consultant for Dermalogica.
Professional Beauty July 2014
The professionals’ choice for over 20 years
REASONS TO MEET Dermalogica is the number one choice for professional skin care therapists, even for their own skin.
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We have 90 training centres around the world. Wherever you are, we’re there to support you.
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We don’t spend our money on glamorous models, frilly packaging or overblown hype- we simply deliver real results, every time.
Dermalogica has been voted one of the coolest brands for 10 years running in the UK Coolest Brands survey. We’re a favourite between make-up artists and beauty editors, plus we’ve won numerous consumer awards.
Dermalogica’s professional skin care treatments provide instant and tangible results for your clients, with the largest selection of professional products in the industry.
Dermalogica’s targeted microZone® Treatments can boost client visits because they are quick and to the point.
We understand your business and know how to work with your business challenges; we are from the industry ourselves.
We have pioneered many unique techniques, treatments and concepts that are built around bringing greater success for the skin care therapist.
Our perspective retailing techniques can help your business achieve the elusive 50% service 50% retail revenue ratio.
The Dermalogica FITE foundation has helped fund more than 48,000 women entrepreneurs around the world so that they may start or grow a business.
We have a great rewards programme for our Dermalogica professional skin care therapists on a monthly and a quarterly basis.
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The Essence of Beauty, Spa & Wellness
JOHANNESBURG
CELEBRATING
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31 AUGUST 1 SEPTEMBER 2014 Gallagher Convention Centre Professional Beauty is THE event where the new wave of trends are announced, and where you can see the top names in the beauty industry launching new products and offering substantial ‘show only’ incentives.
Get your FREE ticket at www.probeauty.co.za Incorporating:
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CONVENTION 2014
industry news
9 News in brief ■ Laser Beautique chooses Alma: Best Lasers is supplying Alma Laser systems (Soprano Xli, Soprano Ice and the Accent Ultra V) to The Laser Beautique, a fast growing franchise with seven branches in South Africa. It specialises in hair removal and body contouring on Alma Systems.
■ Global facial aesthetics market set to double: According to a new report from business intelligence company GBI Research, the facial aesthetics market was worth US$2.5billion in 2013. GBI Research predicts it will hit US$5.4bn in 2020, growing at a rate of over 10% per year.
■ Changes to CECOSA board: Hilda Gous has succeeded outgoing CECOSA (Cosmetic Export Council of South Africa) founder chairperson, Maria Laughland. Gous is a founder member of both Medika SA and Skin Rejuvenation Technologies. She is also a founding board member of CECOSA.
■ GoGo Health brand re-launch: GoGo Health has re-launched its entire brand and labelling in line with the new South African Medical Council supplement laws. The company has also created a new website – www. gogohealthherbal.com – as owner Kerrie Bosse really wanted to ‘talk to our clients’.
■ International PMU Conference: The International Permanent Makeup Conference will take place on 31 August and 1 September at Gallagher Estate, as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
First Dr Baumann spa opens
B
ionome skincare company Dr Bauman has opened its first ever spa in South Africa. Located in Bryanston, Johannesburg, the Dr Baumann Das Institut – Centre of Health, Education and Beauty offers 11 body and facial treatments as well as hydro facilities and water treatments. Says Stephanie Chandler Konigsberg, international training director of Dr Baumann International: “We believe that generally spas and salons all over the world don’t maxamise their potential because often the owners have had no business or management training. We want to make our spa the model spa where we carry out everything that we recommend in the Dr Baumann Millionaire Business Seminars. “It was our goal to create a centre
of health and education, not only of beauty but where consumers can be advised on healthy skincare, nutrition and healthy living. To that end we plan to hold yoga classes, vegetarian cooking classes and musical evenings at the spa.” Chandler Konigsberg stresses that the spa wants to communicate the importance of Dr Baumann Bionome toxin free skincare to as many people as possible. The spa, which is managed by Elvira Arnold, is situated at 309 Bryanston Drive.
New sales rep for Helia-D Bronte Gallacher has joined the Helia-D team as sales consultant for Melinda Waxes as well as all other products sold by the company. Gallacher has achieved full national beauty therapy qualification as well as the ITEC and CIDESCO international qualifications.
Bronte Gallacher
Professional Beauty July 2014
industry news
10
Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals now EU compliant
A
fter months of careful examination and testing, Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals has become one of the first South African brands to obtain EU (European Union) compliance in line with the latest legislation. “For Dr Gobac to obtain EU compliance certification, our product formulations were thoroughly examined across a number of criteria. Not only did they need to comply with all the toxicology tests, but each and every ingredient had to be approved, as well as the percentage of actives present in our products strictly
controlled,” says the company’s coowner, Melba Gobac. “There were also very specific requirements in terms of packaging the product for distribution in the EU. Ingredient listings and directions for use must be clearly visible on the outside of the packaging, and detailed information and warnings inserted inside.” The benefit of receiving EU compliance is that its mandatory requirements are harmonised throughout the EU, meaning that a manufacturer need only go through the process once and can then export to all 27 EU member states.
Renowned US make-up artist in SA Top American make-up artist and educator Donna Mee was the guest speaker at the opening of Kohl Make-up Academy’s new premises in Parkhurst, Johannesburg on 6 June. Mee, whose illustrious career spans 33 years, honed her skills in catwalk, awards shows, print and television before specialising in beauty makeup for print. She has her own make-up academy in California. “Everything I teach is about the science and theory of beauty,” commented Mee. “There is a scientific way to make people more attractive; beauty is a mathematical equation. As a makeup artist I change women’s experiences of themselves,” commented Mee. She noted that for the period 2006 to 2013, make-up artistry ranked at number seven on the list of top 30 job growths. Mee defined the different types of photography that makeup artists can choose to work in: beauty photography (close-
Donna Mee up shots); macro photography (extreme close-ups); fashion photography (advertising); fashion editorial; commercial advertising; head shots; portrait photography; boudoir photography; bridal photography; swimwear; and art/ concept photography. Mee is holding workshops in South Africa in July.
Professional Beauty July 2014
Dr Robert Gobac ‘We are proud, not only to have obtained the certification, but also for the fact that none of our formulations had to be changed to comply with EU legislation,” adds Gobac. “This proves that our manufacturing and development processes and formulations are of a first-world standard.”
International accreditation for Star Nail Africa Star Nail Africa has obtained international accreditation for its nail, manicure, pedicure and lashes courses. Says MD Petrus Badenhorst: “Star Nail is now able to offer internationally accredited certificates on completion of its courses. We have chosen VTCT (Vocational Training Charitable Trust) as our awarding body, as they are recognised internationally and bound by UK regulatory body HABIA (Hair and Beauty Industry Authority) guidelines.” Star Nail courses are only presented by qualified assessors and Elma Schalkwyk, the head of training at Star Nail, was the first educator in South Africa to be accredited by VTCT for nail technology and lashes. Megan Park from Durban has also completed the assessor’s course and is now qualified to present VTCT accredited courses. Star Nail educators in Middelburg, Nelspruit, Cape Town, Johannesburg and Pretoria will commence their assessor’s course next month.
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industry news
12
Diode Laser master class success
D
ue to the success of its 2013 Hair Removal master class, Hitech Lasers presented a second annual master class in June this year, in Pretoria and Cape Town. Both events were fully booked. The event was targeted at users of Lumenis LightSheer Diode Lasers, as well as interested parties who wished to learn more about hair removal using a Diode laser. Ann Wild, Lumenis’ aesthetic clinical educator, inspired participants with her knowledge and skill. Wild is responsible for Lumenis training in the UK, Europe, Middle-East and Africa. Said Joelette Theron, education facilitator of SAAHSP – CIDESCO Section South Africa: “Everything for this day of training was meticulously organised and the level of the theoretical and practical training offered was very high.” According to Hitech Lasers’ Naomi Olivier, the company will offer a 3rd annual master class on Diode Laser
hair removal in 2015. “The need for a master class in IPL technology will also be addressed in 2015 and a full-day training course
Dermalogica enters peel market To introduce its first ever chemical peel, the BioSurface Peel, Dermalogica held a press event at its head office in Johannesburg on 12 June. Dermalogica’s strategic communications manager Sonette Donker announced that the BioSurface Peel will be available in the market in September.
with the focus on IPL technology will be offered in addition to training on hair removal with a Diode Laser,” says Olivier.
News in pictures
She emphasised that any therapist performing the peel on a client should insist on performing a detailed consultation first. The BioSurface Peel consists of four steps: Prep Solution; Enzyme Active; Acid Active and De-celerator.
Natasha Proksch, Nastassja Howard, Marie van Zyl, Sonette Donker and Shelley Martin
Professional Beauty July 2014
Poise Brands held an event at The Saxon in Sandown, Johannesburg on 10 June to reinforce the positioning in the South African market of its three brands – Mama Mio, Mio and Juliette Armand. Pictured is MD Janine Janse van Rensburg.
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business tips
17
Tapping into the big, wide world CECOSA (Cosmetic Export Council of South Africa) was recently mandated by the dti (Department of Trade and Industry), with whom it shares a publicprivate partnership, to drive exports of South African beauty products into Africa.
A
dele Visser, CECOSA’s cosmetic export council manager, points out that a useful first step to showcasing products internationally is to participate at overseas trade shows. “The branding exposure at international trade South African stand at Professional Beauty London shows is amazing,” continues Visser. “CECOSA has assisted a number of South African companies to exhibit at Regarding the SADC region, as per a trade major international trade shows, like agreement, South African exporters do not have Professional Beauty London, through to pay customs duties. This agreement excludes use of the dti’s EMIA (Export Marketing SACU (Southern African Customs Union) and Investment Assistance) Scheme. countries, which include Botswana, Namibia, “However, exporting into Africa Swaziland and Lesotho. is very challenging for a number of “Another way of showcasing your products reasons. A major factor is product on the African continent is to participate in compliance; Africa is not like the dti national pavilions at general trade shows,” EU where all 27 countries are EU states Visser. “The dti is keen for me to advertise compliant. Each country in Africa these shows to the beauty sector.” operates on an individual basis – some are FDA (Federal Drug Administration) Show strategy compliant, while others are only CECOSA actively promotes the unity of exhibitor Nigerian Beauty Expo compliant within their own ministries.” companies at international trade shows. According to Visser, viable export “We enforce an open policy at trade shows. markets in Africa include Nigeria, Kenya, Uganda and We only put company banners on the back wall of the the SADC (Southern African Development Community) stand and we don’t allow boxed in stands. In addition, countries. we encourage exhibitors to be smart and use the same “CECOSA has been to the Beauty Africa Exhibition & freighting companies to save money,” says Visser. Conference in Lagos, Nigeria, which is the only beauty South African exporters need to be CTFA (Cosmetic expo in the region. We discovered that there is a Nigerian Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa) FDA but that it’s very expensive to register foreign compliant before exporting. There are new EU regulations products. for cosmetics and companies should consult the CTFA. “The ideal way to work in a potential export territory is (See www.ctfa.co.za) through a distributor, but it’s particularly difficult in Nigeria As of 1 April this year, the dti announced increased to find a good distributor. However, we’ve managed to find funding for companies wanting to utilise the EMIA Scheme a way to introduce beauty products into Africa through a for international trade shows. For more information on company that distributes medical supplies.” these funding parameters visit www.cecosa.co.za PB
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty July 2014
case study
18
Franchisor’s four-year odyssey When Esna Colyn became CEO of Imbalie Beauty four years ago, she set out to simplify the group’s internal structures so as to offer better support to franchisees, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
T
here are currently 150 Imbalie Beauty Salons in South Africa – 20 of these are corporate-owned stores, with the balance franchised. Esna Colyn’s first plan of action after being appointed CEO of Imbalie Beauty was to stabilise the group and to entrench the following motto: ‘As franchisor we work for our franchisees’. “In effect this means we are here to serve our franchisees and customers and to ensure that each customer has a memorable experience,” explains Colyn. “The group is on a continuous journey to innovate and to offer better marketing, pricing and support structures to our franchisees.” At one stage during her tenure Colyn became known as ‘Mrs Change’. One of those changes was to create an independent Imbalie Beauty pension fund, with major benefits for the group’s employees. “Due to the fact that many single mothers work within the group, management took it upon itself to source a unique pension fund product from Discovery, in which, should a mother pass away, her child will receive education compensation up until their first university degree,” explains Colyn. Another big change took place two years ago, when Colyn and her team embarked on ‘Project Facelift’ to ensure that the group’s beauty salons look desirable. To date 60 salons have been revamped.
“
The business of business Colyn comes from a business background – experience she has found invaluable for her leadership role at Imbalie. “Systems and procedures are crucial in the beauty industry,” she states. “When therapists become salonowners themselves they need to make the shift from working ‘in’ their businesses to working ‘on’ their businesses. Only then will they ultimately succeed. “Imbalie outsources its business training for the group to an individual who is very knowledgeable on franchising and business. She handles basic business finance, marketing and merchandising in her curriculum.” Two years ago Colyn took to heart advice from Imbalie Beauty chairperson, Hilda Lunderstedt, who said the management team should build a solid foundation for the business. “Hilda was instrumental in assisting us to conceive an appropriate vision and mission for Imbalie. Our vision is not only to be the largest and most desirable beauty franchise group in South Africa, but to make a positive change in the world through self-improvement and self-empowerment, and to increase the self-esteem of our customers.” Each month more than 200 people are trained at the Imbalie Beauty Training Academy. The group has received many accolades and beauty awards over the last couple of years, including success at the recent FASA (Franchising Association of South Africa) Awards.PB
When therapists become salon-owners themselves they need to make the shift from working ‘in’ their businesses to working ‘on’ their businesses. Only then will they ultimately succeed. Esna Colyn
Professional Beauty July 2014
”
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
20
Customer relations When it comes to making changes in your salon, your best business advisors are always your customers, writes Hellen Ward.
O
ne of the most fascinating things I discovered when I researched the chapters on marketing for my Ultimate Salon Management series of textbooks was a story about Wrigley’s chewing gum. William Wrigley Junior started his own business with just $32 in his pocket. His father had a business selling scouring soap, but the son had a gift for seeing things from his customers’ point of view. A pioneer of GWP (gift with purchase), he offered incentives to merchants to stock the soap, such as cans of baking powder. The problem was the baking powder was more popular that the soap. So rather than give up, William switched to the baking powder business. In 1892, however, he got the idea of offering two free packs of chewing gum with each can of baking powder. The rest, as they say, is history. What this teaches us is just how priceless it is to listen to your customers. It takes a real pioneer to be willing to deviate from their plans and take their business in the unplanned direction that customers are telling them they want. The salutary lesson I learn from this example is that the business that fails to listen to its customers is going nowhere. There are many brands that have been ruined by new chief executives with a vision they doggedly refuse to bend on. They take the elements that the core customers don’t want changed and fix what isn’t broken. Keen to make their mark, they forget to listen to their customers and end up destroying something that was once fantastic. If I am unsure about doing something new, you won’t catch me listening to the slick salesman or the mighty manufacturer. There are just two sets of people whose counsel I will seek: our customers and our staff. The customers will tell me whether I’m barking up the wrong tree. And the team will have no qualms about
telling me whether my ideas will work. Quite frankly, nothing else matters.
New concepts It’s with interest that I’ve been reading lately about a new breed of beauty and hair salon. The new Blow in Covent Garden epitomises the trend. Its PR states that what women want and need is to feel glamorous and groomed. However, they are, apparently, extremely short of time…I’m not so sure; some are, some aren’t. This new salon concept is all about fast beauty – a menu of 15 or 30-minute looks. Open over 12 hours a day from 7am, the brains behind the concept feel that beauty is not about an experience, merely an end result. Accordingly, you cannot request an operator as it’s all about booking the service not the individual. You can book online and there’s no cancellation fee if you don’t turn up. The staff are not on commission so there’s no ‘hard sell’. It’s a very different approach to running a salon – and who knows how it may work. But one thing confuses me. A recent survey showed women said they were more loyal to their hairdresser than their husband (yes, you read that right), so do people really want the result over the experience? Time will tell. But I for one will be very surprised if they’re right and we’re all wrong. Because the customers I’m listening to firmly tell me we’re on the right path, so I for one will carry on listening to them. PB
There are just two sets of people whose counsel I will seek: our customers and our staff.
Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.
Professional Beauty July 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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business of beauty blog
25
All about growth
G
In business today the rules of the game and the playing fields are changing, writes Debbie Merdjan.
lobalisation, political changes, upheavals, economic shocks, technology and social movements are all causes for change. Depressing, right? This forces us to be more strategic and look at how we position our businesses. You need to ask yourself the following questions: How does your business drive profitable growth today? What are your forecasts for how you will drive profitable growth in the future? What are the opportunities and threats that you face today? Being an entrepreneur in 2014 requires the relentless pursuit of opportunity without being ‘reckless’. You have to pursue opportunities, be innovative, invest and create value in order to grow. Ok, so why would I want to grow my business? 1. To survive in an increasingly competitive market. 2. To become more secure by diversifying the business. 3. To increase turnover, profitability and decrease the average cost of operations.
4. To achieve a bigger market share. 5. To satisfy your ego – but it’s better to concentrate on ROI (return on investment) and not ROE (return on ego)!
Ways to expand There are two main ways in which a business can grow – internal growth and external growth. Internal growth is known as organic growth and is when a business increases its size through investing in its existing product range, or by developing new products or treatments. This is financed through the use of retained profits or bank loans. External growth takes place through the use of mergers and takeovers, known as growth through amalgamation, and requires large sums of money. Growth requires turning ideas into opportunities and maximising on connections, capabilities and pursuing your project with a positive mindset, energy and passion. The flipside of rapid and unexpected growth can specifically have an effect on the company’s finances, by increasing expenses and
Options for Evolving Your Business Model
New
Markets Same
Incremental Innovation
Expand into new markets
Enter new market segments or geographies with same products; Build capabilities to enter new markets
Enhance current products and/or markets
Improve products, add features and/or improve sales or channels; Build capabilities execute current strategy
Same
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Explore new businesses
Launch new products that are sold to new markets or enter into new industries; Build capabilities needed to launch new businesses or business models
Expand into new product lines
Add services or solutions that can be sold to same market; Build capabilities to sell solutions to current markets
New
Radical Innovation
affecting the liquidity and gearing of the business. Often managers cannot cope with the extra responsibilities and workloads. More staff are required, and managers have to deal with the problems of recruitment, training and service deliverables and new staff productivity. A big danger is that the business becomes inefficient and cannot cope with the growth. Something to consider is that a small business can be more profitable than a bigger business, as the bigger business often requires more effort and attention. Visualise a big ship as opposed to a speedboat that can manoeuvre quickly and effortlessly to meet the challenges of business.
Business plan When embarking on growth you need to ask yourself: HOW? WHAT? WHY? Create a detailed business plan mapping your growth and requirements. This can be used to analyse how your current business makes (or loses) money. Frame opportunities to evolve your current business or launch new ones and identify the assumptions behind your business case and business plan forecasts. Ask yourself what are the opportunities and threats that you face today. Let me sign off with words from Karen Clark: “Life is change, growth is optional, choose wisely.” PB References - Lynda M. Applegate – Harvard Business School.
Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin care training. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.
Professional Beauty July 2014
spa focus
26
The mysteries of revealed
Massage
Touching your body where it hurts is a natural instinct, similar to eating when you are hungry or covering up when you are cold. Back in the days before Myprodol, humans treated their sore bodies the old-fashioned way – by rubbing them, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.
M
assage, or the manipulation of superficial and deeper layers of muscle and connective tissue using various techniques, is the most ancient of natural remedies, and has come a long way over the centuries. Three massage therapies that we can almost classify as classics have made their mark and maintained their position at the top of the preferred list of massage services. Swedish Massage uses soothing, tapping and kneading movements over the entire body, relieving muscle tension and loosening sore joints. Therapists use five basic strokes, which anyone can learn and use on themselves and others. They are termed: effleurage (stroking); petrissage (muscles are lightly grabbed and lifted); friction (thumbs and fingertips work in deep circles into the thickest part of muscles); tapotement (chopping, beating, and tapping strokes); and vibration (fingers are first
pressed or flattened firmly on a muscle before the area is shaken rapidly for a few seconds). Deep Tissue Massage targets chronic tension in the muscles that lie far below the surface of your body. You have five layers of muscle in your back, for instance, and, while Swedish Massage may help the top few layers, it won’t do much directly for the muscle underneath. Deep tissue muscle techniques usually involve slow strokes, direct pressure or friction movements that go across the grain of the muscles. Massage therapists will use their fingers, thumbs, or occasionally even elbows, to apply the needed pressure. Not the most relaxing experience, but it does the job of relieving muscle tension very effectively. Aromatherapy Massage combines the use of essential oils and therapeutic massage. A tailor-made oil blend is mixed with oils suited to meet your specific needs As the massage begins, the oils quickly penetrate the skin and
Pic: japantimes.co.jp
Professional Beauty July 2014
Pic: Four Seasons Punta Mita
online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
27
Medicinal therapies,
become absorbed into the bloodstream, loosening muscles and helping to release any suppressed tension and stress. As the essences evaporate, you’ll also begin to inhale them subconsciously via your super-sensitive nasal passage. These nasal nerves will then send messages to your brain encouraging your mind to work together with your body, and sending you into a totally relaxed state, both emotionally and physically. The massage movements are light and flowing.
Then we have some more specific, very technical types of massages, some of which are considered medical in nature and covered by certain medical aid policies. Sports Massage is designed to help you train better. The techniques are similar to those in Swedish Massage and Deep Tissue Massage, but Sports Massage is specifically adapted to meet the athlete’s special needs. Pre-event massage can help warm up muscles and improve circulation before sporting events, while also energising and relaxing an athlete to help him focus on the event. Post-event massage can push waste products out of the body and improve recovery by reducing lactic acid buildup. Craniosacral Therapy focuses on the skull and spinal column. Therapists use very gentle pressure, no more than the weight of a twenty-cent coin, to massage the bones, membranes and fluids that support your skull and spinal column. The theory is that these manipulations will reduce tension and counteract any physical trauma you may have experienced to your head over the years. This form of massage is very specific, and, if not done correctly, will have no benefit at all for the patient.
Tools, About 15 years ago massage therapy saw the introduction of tools to be incorporated in the treatment for enhanced benefit. The first tool to be R
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Professional Beauty July 2014
spa focus
28 introduced was smooth, heated stones, to either massage with, as part of the hand movements, or to be placed on specific areas of the body while massaging other parts. This heat is deeply relaxing and can also warm up tight muscles so the therapist can work more deeply. An ancient Asian massage tool that originated in northern Thailand and has been passed from generation to generation is the Thai herb compress massage or herbal dumpling massage. A combination of authentic herbs, usually sourced from Thailand, such as Ginger Purpuream Rose, Curcuma Domestica Valeton, Alpina Nigra B.L Burtt, Leaves Tamarindus Indica L, Leaves Bauhinia Retusa and Camphor, among others, are filled into a muslin type of material to form two round balls with handles. These
Bizarre trends,
Pic: Therapeuo African Rungu Stick
Pic: axanews.net
Finally we look at a few of the most unusual massages found around the globe that are trending at the moment. Whether they will keep a spot on the treatment menu for years to come remains to be seen. Cactus Massage: it sounds uncomfortable but the cactus massage is a specialty at the Four Seasons Punta Mita, Mexico. Don’t worry! The thorns are pulled out before the cactus paddles are heated in warm water. They are then cut in half to expose the gooey interior used to massage your body. Snail Massage: spas in Russia, Japan and the UK have taken facials to a new level. The snails are placed on your face and left to glide around your face, leaving behind their slime, which can recover damaged skin. Snake Massage: a spa in Israel uses a combination of six non-venomous snakes to massage your body, alleviating muscle pain and soreness - the larger the snakes the deeper the massage. In Indonesia, the combination of pythons slithering on your back and the induced fear is thought to help the metabolism. Finally, it is important to remember that massage is still the number one booked service in any spa around the globe. So don’t lose sight of the reason why the customer books a massage and focus your attention on the finer details of the service and the memory with which you leave your guest. PB
It is important to remember that massage is still the number one booked service in any spa around the globe.
dumplings are steamed prior to massage so that the guest benefits from the heat, and, most importantly, the therapeutic benefit of the herbs. The massage combines traditional remedies with modern massage techniques using deep massage movements. This natural, holistic and lifestyle type of massage is the ultimate in detoxification, rebalancing and relaxation. Making a debut less than 10 years ago was the African Rungu Massage, a unique massage administered with the help of a rungu – a wooden throwing club or baton – which has special symbolism and significance in certain East African tribal cultures. The smooth texture, heavy feel and different surfaces are combined to offer a massage with deep friction so as to leave the client with thoroughly massaged and stimulated muscles. Rungu Massage promotes circulation, sensory nerve perception and lymph drainage, as well as a deep sense of relaxation and wellbeing. The gentle stretching movement alternated with light touches brings about a heightened sense of relaxation. And, most recently, the world’s first naturally self-heating massage tool designed to allow a massage therapist the ability to add heat into their techniques is the lava shell. Real shells from the Philippines are used to massage with and heat comes from inside the shell, thanks to a mixture of minerals, algae, salt water and essential oils which create a chemical reaction, emitting heat for one to two hours.
Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.
Professional Beauty July 2014
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spa focus
31
Spa life, airport style As at 6 June, the Camelot Spa at the Phela-Live Wellness Centre at OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg had seen over 200 clients come through its doors since its official launch, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
A
t its launch on February 4, the Phela-Live Wellness Centre made history by becoming the first facility of its kind in South Africa – a combination high-tech gym and luxury spa located within an international airport precinct. Situated directly opposite the arrivals terminal at OR Tambo Airport, the Phela-Live Wellness Centre is at first glance a scene of frenetic activity – with ‘gym-mers’ cycling madly on exercise bikes, pumping iron and hoofing it on treadmills, to the accompaniment of pounding music. Walk up the winding staircase at the
rear of the gym and you enter another world entirely – a haven of tranquillity and refuge – the Camelot Spa. Here, I’m met by spa manager Yolanda Mbelle, who explains that, when conceptualising the spa, Phela-Live Wellness owners Mpho Mohale and Samora Mtsi turned to the Camelot Spa Group as they wanted a proven record of service excellence.
Commenting on the spa’s clientele, Mbelle notes that the spa has experienced an increase in patrons all round – from employees of companies around OR Tambo to airline staff, security companies and tourism operators. “Our clientele is not limited to these companies, as we also have a large number of passengers in transit using our gym and spa facilities. We offer a day rate and monthly rates to suit our vast clientele. Our free parking policy makes coming to the airport convenient. We’ve also held wellness events, including seminars and fun days, which have attracted the locals who live in the area.”
Not one size fits all As to the differences in running an airport-based spa compared to other spas, Mbelle says they are huge. “We cater for a mixture of clientele, from corporates to international travellers, to locals who work at, or live near to, the airport. The customer service rule that you must treat every customer as R
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Professional Beauty July 2014
spa focus
32 Phela-Live Wellness Centre made history by becoming the first facility of its kind in South Africa – a combination high-tech gym and luxury spa located within an international airport precinct. FACT FILE:
Camelot Spa at Phela-Live Wellness Centre Launched: 4 February 2014 Owners: Mpho Mohale and Samora Mtsi Size: 800 square metres Location: OR Tambo International Airport Facilities: Flotation tank, Hydrobath, two pedicure stations with Feetish chair and foot spa, two manicure stations Brands stocked: Thalgo, Cspa, Medi-Heel, Essie, Gelish and Harmony Number of therapists: four full-time therapists Number of rooms: five single treatment rooms, one double room
an individual takes on a literal meaning here. We need to find a way to incorporate their business cultures in the way we provide our service. Corporate wellness is not the same thing that the airport passenger is looking for, or even what the local person is looking for. “This variety does, in a way, help us to exceed the needs, since we can steal from the different markets we serve and be in a better position to diversify our service offerings. We find that what works for the one group doesn’t necessarily work for the other. Having a facility that can provide a service to fill the customer’s every wellness need is beneficial. “Another challenge is to convincingly communicate to a gym client the benefits of a complete wellness package that includes spa treatments and services. We are currently also looking at introducing a complete wellness package, including financial wellness and psychological wellness, in the form of counselling and workshops,” states Mbelle.
Five senses The spa is positioned as a world of wellness that caters to all the senses. You might wonder if the loud gym music below permeates up into the spa, but there is sound reduction in each treatment room, while the flotation therapy room has its own spa music. Speaking of flotation tanks, this particular one, supplied by StillPoint in Cape Town, contains 10 000 litres and can accommodate up to
four people. A temperature of between 38 and 39 degrees is considered ideal. There is a Sense Solution system installed at the spa to combat any odours which might filter through from the gym. Walking around the spa, the wafting fragrance of frangipane, Camelot Spa’s signature flower, assails the nostrils. An important feature of the spa is the relaxation area, where clients can unwind before treatment and are served the signature tea of Camelot’s luxury French skincare brand, Thalgo. This area is also used by passengers in transit while they wait for their flights.
Signature treatment The spa’s signature treatment is the Universal Massage, described as a trip around the world. It includes the following massage therapies: Hawaiian lomi lomi, Bali shiatsu and hot stones, Indian head massage and Swedish massage. Says Mbelle: “We use our exclusive candles as our massage medium. They are made in South Africa and thus constitute the African part of the journey around the world. This is a Soya candle, it is protein-based so as to nourish and soften the skin as you massage. It provides perfect slip to aid in performing the various massage techniques. Plus, the candle creates the much-needed ambience.” The most requested treatments at the spa are massage, pedicure, flotation therapy and Hydrobath therapy (a choice of Milk Bath or the Detox Bath). PB
Professional Beauty July 2014
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treatment review – peeling
34
A ‘revealing’ peel The Apocalypsis Therapy Peel, from Greek skincare brand, Juliette Armand, is positioned as a medium-depth peel, as Belinda Wewege discovered.
T
he Greek word ‘Apocalypsis’ means ‘to reveal’, an apt name for a peel, as it exposes the underlying, virgin skin. Meghan Less, training and development manager at Poise Brands, the exclusive South Africa distributor for Juliette Armand, told me that the Apocalypsis Therapy Peel promotes cellular rejuvenation. “It literally kick-starts the skin back to life,” continued Less. “This treatment is Juliette Armand’s answer to TCA (Trichloracetic Acid) peels. It consists of the Phytopeel followed by the 20% AHA Fruit Gel peel.” To commence the treatment Less used the Hydro Cleansing Milk to cleanse my skin – this is an alcohol-free lotion with a neutral pH. Then she applied the Phytopeel – a purely plant-based peel that was originally used by doctors – and contains ingredients from the spongilla, fragilis and ephydatia herbs, found in the lakes of Russia and Canada. The Phytopeel was left on for five minutes. Wearing gloves, Less gently massaged the peel into my skin, with circular motions, to exfoliate. She noted that the Phytopeel removes degenerated cells, while restoring skin consistency, elasticity and brightness. The Phytopeel was removed with water and followed by the 20% AHA Fruit Gel peel. “We only leave the 20% AHA Fruit Gel peel on for a minute before neutralising it with lotion. The amount of peeling one experiences depends on the individual’s skin. Your skin is fairly thick, so the amount of peeling will be less than with thinner skins. We would not recommend this peel
The amount of peeling one experiences depends on the individual’s skin.
for really thin and sensitive skin,” explained Less. She applied the peel onto my face with gentle movements so as to avoid further irritation of the skin. The peel felt fine and luckily I didn’t experience a burning sensation. After removing the peel with Neutral Lotion, Less applied the Clarifying Mask, which felt lovely on my skin. Said Less: “The Clarifying Mask is from Juliette Armand’s Elements range. It is regarded as a ‘hero product’, because you can use it for a number of different reasons, but in this case it is used as an anti-inflammatory. So it is recommended as an ideal post-peel treatment.” The mask was removed with water and the treatment finished off with SunFIlm Gel SPF30 to protect the new skin from the sun. When I returned to Poise Brands five days later for the recommended follow-up facial, Less observed that my pore size had diminished, the blackheads had gone and that she could see the regeneration on my skin. PB
Contact: Poise Brands 011 033 0500
Professional Beauty July 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
36
A ‘progressive’ experience New to South Africa, the DermaFix Progressive 3/4 Stage Peeling system is a layering peel that safely pushes your skin as far as it will go, writes Charlene Dickson.
Before
After
Before
After
D
ermaFix educator Rozlyn Williams came to see me three weeks before my peel to perform a detailed consultation. She instructed me to incorporate the In progress DermaFix MelanoDerm into my skin care routine in preparation for the peel. Said Williams: “MelanoDerm helps to suppress the efficacy of the topical the melanocyte activity in the skin, and prevents application of Vitamin A post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.” Propionate for revitalising the On the day of the peel Williams explained skin. Vitamin A Propionate that I could expect the shedding phase to be stimulates cell growth and anything between four and 10 days. releases growth factors, “With this peel we go layer by layer, hence its resulting in angiogenesis and name – the Progressive Peel. Depending on the the production of healthy new client’s skin we can do either a three-stage peel collagen.” or a four-stage peel,” she said. “The number of She emphasised the impeel layers within each stage can be modified portance of post peel care. to change the treatment intensity, depending This included avoiding the sun, on the individual’s reaction, which is carefully no contact with animals and monitored throughout the treatment.” using only the DermaFix Gentle The DermaFix Progressive Peel triggers Cleansing Gel and DermaFix repair and regeneration processes in the epidermis and the DermaShield SPF 50 high dermis, resulting in the remodelling of the skin surface. It protection sunscreen on my face. DermaPolish, an is ideal for treating fine lines, pigmentation abnormalities, exfoliating enzyme, was incorporated to assist the acne scars and persistent dry skin. sloughing off of dead skin cells. The peeling treatment commenced with a cleanse, using My skin peeled quite intensively for about four the DermaFix Active Cleansing Gel. Williams then carefully days. A week post-peel, I had the follow-up DermaFix applied the DermaPeel, a modified Jessner’s formula, with Enzymatic Facial and was amazed at how smooth and gauze. I could feel the peel prickle on areas where my skin youthful my skin looked. was most dehydrated. According to Williams, a series of three to six Williams then changed the gauze for the first stage DermaFix Progressive 3/4 stage peels is recommended of TCA peel. At this stage I was starting to feel the heat at monthly intervals, depending on skin concern.PB coming off my face, but the sensation was quite bearable. Following this, Williams applied the second stage of TCA peel, after which came the Vitamin A Propionate. Contact: DermaFix 0861 28 23 23 Said Williams: “Multiple studies have documented
Professional Beauty July 2014
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treatment review – peeling
39
The lunchtime peel Keen to undergo a superficial peel in order to refresh her skin, Melinda Alevras went to Genop Healthcare’s head office in Midrand to experience the Exuviance 20% Revitalising Peel.
A
s I cleansed my face in preparation for the peel, Genop Healthcare product manager Kelly Reynolds explained that the Exuviance range was created by the NeoStrata company. Said Reynolds: “Dermatologists Eugene Van Scott and Ruey Yu, the founders of NeoStrata, are internationally recognised for having discovered the rejuvenating effects of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) on the skin. “Exuviance is relatively new to South Africa and we are currently in about 50 salons. We recently embarked on a concerted marketing drive to increase the local Exuviance footprint.” Prior to the peel, Reynolds applied an alcohol astringent cleanser to my skin to ensure it was thoroughly clean. She then applied antioxidant booster pads to my face for two minutes. “The booster pads contain citric acid and are applied to enhance the penetration of the peel, which is a 20% pure glycolic acid peel with a pH of 3. It’s a very superficial peel, which is why we refer to it as a lunchtime peel. You can literally have this peel during your lunch hour and go back to work afterwards. You will be able to wear make-up the following day. “It’s important to avoid the sun for seven days postpeel and to use sunscreen. In addition, you must not use any Vitamin A or retinol on the skin following the peel. We recommend a course for between four to six treatments of the peel for maximum benefit. The treatment can be done every three to four weeks,” commented Reynolds. She likened the Exuviance 20% Revitalising Peel to a transient exfoliation, saying that it was both moisturising and revitalising. It is also suitable for acne sufferers. After removing the booster pads, Reynolds put Vaseline at the corners of my eyes and nose to protect them from the peel lotion.
The peel itself was left on for five minutes. I was pleasantly surprised to find that it felt more like a facial then a peel, as I didn’t experience any burning sensation. Reynolds then neutralised the peel to prevent my skin from frosting. “If the treatment is done in a salon, the therapist will most likely put a purifying clay mask on, either before or after the peel,” commented Reynolds. Post-peel Reynolds applied the Ultra Restorative Cream, which contains lactobionic acid. The final stage was the application of an SPF 50 sunscreen. After the peel my face felt nice and clean. A day later my skin looked more youthful and much less dull than it had before the treatment. PB
The founders of NeoStrata are internationally recognised for having discovered the rejuvenating effects of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) on the skin.
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Contact: Genop Healthcare 011 545 9300
Professional Beauty July 2014
treatment review – peeling
40
Lightening up The aim of the Lightenex Skin Brightening Facial is to lighten the hyperpigmented patches that commonly afflict darker skins by sequential superficial peeling at weekly intervals to promote exfoliation and enhance the penetration of skin lighteners, observes Phil Woods.
A
professional treatment for salon use only, the Lightenex Skin Brightening Facial from PharmaClinix is recommend once weekly for six weeks, followed by monthly maintenance at the salon. The treatment is safe and pain-free and has a great built-in safety feature in that the peel is activated only by massage after the product has been applied. So, if the therapist leaves the product on the skin it cannot do any harm – in other words, you cannot over-peel. The area of skin that the therapist is massaging will start to tingle. Once the tingling sensation has been achieved, the therapist stops the massage and the the product is no longer active. This allows the therapist to safely work on thicker areas of the skin for longer without causing any damage. These thicker areas, such as around the nose or forehead, can be massaged for much longer before the client feels the tingly sensation. Thus the treatment can be tailored to the client’s skin thickness.
Four parts There are four parts to the treatment. Firstly, the use of an acetone de-greaser removes the fats on the skin to allow the water soluble acids to penetrate easily. This is followed by the Acnex peeling mask; this dissolves the protein and keratin on the skin and de-pigments the skin Next comes the Lightenex Face Mask, which is applied quiet liberally to the skin and contains skin lighteners that
will now penetrate the skin easily due to the skin surface being loosened by the acids. The Lightenex Face Polish, which contains beads that remove the loosened skin cells, is applied very gently in circular movements. This leaves the skin tingling gently, which means it is active. Finally, the sunblock will be applied, however this is to be patted on and not massaged into the skin. It is left on for 10 minutes to allow for effective absorption. The Lightenex Skin Brightening Facial is a compound peel which allows you to treat all skin types and conditions such as hyperpigmentation, wrinkles and acne. Dark skins generally react badly to peeling, however, with this treatment peeling can be undertaken without creating hotspots that can worsen pigmentation. In addition, there is considerable scientific evidence that glycolic acid has excellent synergy with azalkeic acid and phytic acid to promote de-pigmentation. The treatment comes with two retail products – Lightenex Plus and a sunblock, Sun Blockex, for home use. Their use is mandatory because having removed the superficial layer of skin, the risk of sun damage is much higher.PB
Contact: Cosmoderma 031 829 3847
Professional Beauty July 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
peeling aftercare
42
Well
Pic: Bellabaci
and trulypeeled
Professional Beauty July 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
peeling aftercare
43 Any therapist who performs a chemical peeling treatment should emphasise the vital importance of post-peel homecare and prescribe the appropriate products. Failure to do so could damage the client’s newly exposed skin.
W
hile each type of peel, be it superficial, medium or deep, has its own individual side effects, the most important post-peel homecare product is a sun protection factor. “The skin will be more photosensitive after a peel, especially after AHA peels,” says Sonette Donker, communications manager at Dermalogica. “I prefer an SPF50+, as it protects the skin against 98% of UV, while an SPF25+ protects against about 96% of UV. “Most of the more medical-like product brands will have a post-peel balm, ointment or cream with an SPF. They also contain antioxidants and vitamins to speed up healing and protect the skin.” Donker recommends investing in the same brand of post-peel homecare as the peel itself. “According to international peeling expert and founder of Skin Tech, Dr Philippe Deprez, it normally takes a cream one week to penetrate the skin, one week to work on the melanocyte and six weeks to renew the skin. So, technically, we will only see a difference eight weeks after application. “Following a peel the client will need to use an acid-balanced cleanser (pH 4.5 – 5.5), often containing an AHA or a BHA, and creams with a specific action to repair skin concerns such as acne, aging, hyperpigmentation, sagging and congestion. In addition, a post-peel repairing balm/ ointment/ cream is normally used for three to five days after the peel, and, of course, an SPF50,” explains Donker. She emphasises that the therapist should speak to the client the day after the peel to monitor how the skin is reacting to the peel.
Healing action Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA believes that post-peel treatment products must contain penetrating ingredients providing anti-inflammatory, healing and repairing action. These includ e azulene andcentella asiatica to immediately calm and R
Professional Beauty July 2014
peeling aftercare
44 soothe the skin and to help rapidly reduce redness, alleviate any itchiness and minimise peeling. Faucitt continues: “Layering of hydrating serums, particularly hyaluronic acid, would be of major benefit immediately following a peel, when the skin is primed to absorb even more rapidly. Products must not contain fragrances or alcohol. “There may be dryness for a number of days following a peel when the skin may feel a bit like sandpaper and wrinkles and pigmentation may look worse before improving. One should massage a super hydrating post peel product gently into the skin to slough off the debris. RégimA Scar Repair and Post Peel Gel work perfectly.” The ideal minimal post-treatment care following a RégimA peel would be: Cleansing + Toning Gel, Scar Repair, Post Peel Gel, and a daytime product containing SPF. Pigment Perfector and Night Booster are also suitable.
Skin sensitivity Ursula Hunt of Dermafix notes that erythema, dryness and skin sensitivity are common in the first three to five days post-peel. “A good skincare programme should be implemented throughout the shedding phase. Thorough
Erythema, dryness and skin sensitivity are common in the first three to five days post-peel. cleansing is vital and there must be no contact with animals for the first 48 hours. Change bed linen if appropriate,” she says. Hunt recommends DermaFix Gentle Cleansing Gel, a mild foaming cleanser that does not strip the skin of vital moisture. DermaFix DermaPolish is an enzymatic exfoliator that gently removes the shedding skin. “For the first two weeks soothing and hydrating topical products are used and irritating ingredients such as AHAs or retinoids are avoided,” continues Hunt. “DermaFix Vitamin C Serum and ACC Hyaluronic Gel are ideal for dryness and sensitivity, while DermaFix ACC Copper, an anti-bacterial treatment, together with pure Argan Oil 100% EcoCert, will alleviate the tightness of the skin and should be used at night. “Clients should avoid the sun and tanning bed for two weeks post-procedure and implement sun protection measures. DermaFix
DermaShield SPF 50 UVA /UVB High Protection Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide fully complies with the latest SANS 1557:2013 standards.” Hunt points out that Fitzpatrick Skin Types III to V are prone to hyperpigmentation. DermaFix MelanoDerm will continue to slow the production of melanin pigments by inhibiting the melanin-stimulating hormone (MSH) melanotropin. “At 28 days or sooner the R
Dr Philippe Deprez’ tips for sensitive skin Don’t use any masks that might dry out the skin.
Tretinoin (Vitamin A) can make the skin more sensitive.
Avoid exfoliating scrubs, repeated micropeels and creams containing microcrystals on sensitive skins.
Prolonged use of creams containing more than 8-10% AHAs can make some skins more sensitive, by reducing the thickness of the stratum corneum for long periods.
Don’t let water dry on the skin; when it evaporates, it soon dries the skin out.
Professional Beauty July 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
peeling aftercare
46
skincare routine would change to include appropriate serums and anti-ageing correctives with peptides and stem cells,” concludes Hunt.
Soothing treatments The Serenite technology from Gatineau respects sensitive skin by helping to soothe and defend it from external aggressions. High-performance, encapsulated ingredients include kudzu extract, which has a soothing action and strengthens the skin’s natural defences. Vitamin B3 precursor and boldo extract act as anti-inflammatories. Anti-Redness Cream maintains moisture levels and increases softness. It visibly diminishes the appearance of redness and helps strengthen capillary walls, while Soothing Concentrate diminishes skin reactivity and improves the skin’s natural defences. Nutriactive is targeted at dry skin as it nourishes, moisturises and defends the skin. Bellabaci International’s recently launched range, The Genies, is suitable for post-peel treatment. “We recommend the Skin Get A Life Genie, as it is neither too drying nor too occlusive,” says Nicolette Schonken of Bellabaci. “The Genie
Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA believes that post-peel treatment products must contain penetrating ingredients providing anti-inflammatory, healing and repairing action. vitamin antioxidants for protection and anti-aging benefits. Products include Priori Advanced AHA Gentle Facial Cleanser, Advanced AHA Invigorating Face & Body Scrub and Advanced AHA Barrier Repair Complex.
Foot note contains the right combination of topical homeopathic and wild-crafted aromatherapeutic ingredients, which are handpicked to address every part of skin healing. This includes inflammation, itchiness, keloid risk, infection, discomfort and many more of the symptoms experienced by the clients post-peel. The Genie restores the skin’s flexibility and eases tightness and discomfort. It stimulates collagen and elastin production, treating the signs of aging as well as restructuring healthy skin cells.” The Bellabaci Facial Cupping massage is also recommended. Priori’s Advanced AHA Range is the ideal product range for use on skin after a peeling treatment to encourage regeneration and enhance and prolong the results. It is an intensive AHA range that leaves the skin hydrated, revitalised and nourished with multi-functional
Professional Beauty July 2014
Chemical peels were traditionally grouped with advanced skin care and facial therapies. Medi-Heel, however, brings this concept into foot care. The alkaline Medi-Heel peel contains sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, accompanied by an AHA complex, including citric and lactic acid, aimed at breaking down dead skin cells, gently and effectively on the underside of the feet. It should be supported by Medi-Heel homecare products.PB
online at www.probeauty.co.za
For more information contact: Tel: +27 (0) 11 880 3850/1 Fax: +27(0) 86 532 1265 sales@marinespadistributors.co.za 2014 Mar/Apr_PB Advert.indd 1
2014/03/28 12:57 PM
lasers
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Devices under the spotlight Lasers, IPLs (Intense Pulsed Light devices) and other non-surgical devices can be used for a variety of aesthetic purposes, ranging from bodycontouring to treating a plethora of skin conditions. Here we look at the latest technologies available.
Syneron eTwo
W
hen it comes to treating p i g m e n t at i o n , vascular lesions and overall skin rejuvenation, Syneron, distributed by Radiant Healthcare, offers the eStyle and the ePlus unit. The former is an IPL combined with RF (radio frequency), while the ePlus is a platform that consists of diode laser and IPL combined with RF. Says Radiant Healthcare’s Melissa Eksteen: “When treating the aboveUltralite mentioned conditions, the applicator is optimised to emit light in wavelengths that are easily absorbed by the melanin and the haemoglobin. The vascular or pigmented lesion absorbs the light energy which raises the temperature of the targeted tissue. The RF flows to the heated area and elevates the temperature to the level required for effective treatment and to improve the overall skin colour and texture.” She notes that Syneron has taken its technology a step further for complete facial rejuvenation with a unit called the eTwo. This consists of two applicators – the Sublime and the Sublative. Syneron has ensured that it is safe for all skin types. The eTwo is indicated for skin-tightening, fine lines and wrinkles, scarring, acne scarring and improvement of overall skin texture, with no downtime. Eksteen continues: “When it comes to the slimming market, Syneron has mastered body treatments with its award-winning Vela platform for cellulite and
Syneron ePlus
body-contouring treatments. The Vela platform consists of four different technologies combined in one, namely, infra-red, RF, vacuum and rollers. It is the perfect non-surgical solution for treating those unwanted problem areas with no downtime. “This elos technology is a revolutionary step forward in the aesthetic world. Syneron is driven by science, which delivers exceptional and safe results that have earned the industry’s trust.”
Professional Beauty July 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
lasers
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r
Multi-application bed
New to South Africa, the EsthLab A12 is a unique multiapplication medical and aesthetic electric bed available from Aim Aesthetics Holdings SA. Manufactured by Biotec Italia, the bed features numerous configuration solutions. Says Anelia van der Merwe of Aim Aesthetics Holdings SA: “EsthLab A12 is the world’s most versatile and expandable electric bed for aesthetic and medical treatments. Its modular design provides multiple distinct cosmetic solutions all built into one electric bed. You can purchase only the technologies you require today and add new technologies as your practice grows. There are 15 distinct technologies which cater for numerous aesthetic/medical applications.” Facial and body procedures include: RF Monopolar; Face and Body Bipolar; CRF (Combined Cavitational and RF) Monopolar Body Handpiece; LipoShock; Pressoteraphy; Abralase; and Mesoskin. Laser and light technologies include: calibrated pulsed light (broad spectrum); Nd:YAG (infrared 1064nm); Alexandrite (755nm); Q-switched Nd:YAG (1079/539nm); Erbium YAG (2940mn) and Diode (infrared 810nm).
Nora IPL
‘Plug and pulse’
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Radiant Healthcare also distributes the new Ultralite tuneable, square pulse IPL device. It uses durable and powerful broad spectrum light, delivered via large spot size hand pieces, for fast and excellent cost-effective hair removal, skin rejuvenation, pigmentation and vascular treatments. “Ultralite’s unique square pulse setting with two different treatment modes for customising each treatment protocol combine with a thermo electric cooling tip for treatment comfort as well as RVC (real value calibration). This makes it a system that is guaranteed to work continuously non-stop all day for busy practices, clinics and salons. It’s a true workhorse,” says Radiant Healthcare’s Jayde Wilson.
The Nora IPL from Barcelona-based Sorisa is ideal for acne, photo rejuvenation and pigmentation. Distributor Marisa Dimitriadis describes the Nora as unique because of its new and exclusive ‘plug and pulse’ technology. “It is the only IPL in the world to change lamps with a single click without the need for a technician to re-load shots. By simply changing the cartridge, the Nora recognises the type of treatment to perform. “It has variable Variable Pulse Technology – three pulses per shot, using the scientific principle of thermal relaxation time. The machine itself has a 10.4-inch touch screen display that has pre-set programmes for all treatments and allows you to store all patient information and treatment records.” R
EsthLab A12
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty July 2014
lasers
50 Tattoo removal r
r
M22 platform
Hitech Lasers distributes the M22 platform, manufactured by Lumenis, with versatile advanced technologies to offer a variety of treatments. Says Hitech Lasers’ Naomi Olivier: “M22 has more than 30 indications for use, as well as the ability to combine multiple technologies in the same treatment session for amazing results. “The latest module, added to the M22 and launched in April 2014, is the Nd: YAG Q-Switched module for tattoo removal.” She stresses that M22 is the only multi-application platform in the market that combines four gold-standard technologies, covering more than 40 skin and hair indications in one system: IPL with OPT (Optimum Pulse Technology); Multi-spot Nd:YAG; ResurFX (1565nm fiber laser); and Q-switched Nd:YAG.
Universal IPL module Lumenis, the inventor of IPL technology, has a Universal IPL module in the M22 platform Lumenis M22 which enables you to treat myriad conditions with a single, versatile hand piece. The Universal IPL hand piece is designed with seven ExpertFilters tailored to the condition being treated and computer-enabled filter recognition for enhanced safety and ease-of use. Treatment indications include: vascular lesions, hemangiomas, port wine stains, ruby spots, venous malformations, freckles, hyperpigmentation, melisma, striae and warts, among many others.
ResurFX “The ResurFX module of M22 is the only true fractional non-ablative technology,” says Olivier. “A non-ablative laser generates beams of coherent light using a very narrow range of wavelengths. The light beams selectively target and heat the water chromophore in the skin. Unlike other fractional technologies, ResurFX needs only one pass to be effective, saving treatment time and protecting the patient’s skin. ResurFX uses a 1565nm fibre laser and a very advanced scanner, which enables the practitioner to choose from more than 600 combinations of shape, size and density for optimal treatment results. “In the ResurFX module the skin is protected by the stateof-the-art CoolScan scanner for non-sequential scanning. This protects the tissue from heat accumulation and overheating. Moreover, the ResurFX handpiece is equipped with continuous contact cooling to increase patient comfort during treatment.” ResurFX treatment indications include solar lentigines, ephelides (freckles), dyschromia, acne scars, surgical scars, melisma, striae, skin resurfacing and periorbital wrinkles.
The Q-Switched Nd: YAG hand piece on the Harmony XL from Alma Lasers is the most frequently used laser for tattoo removal, according to distributor Sharon Best of Best Lasers. Says Best: “Tattoos are created by injecting coloured pigment into small deep holes made in the skin. Regardless of whether a tattoo artist or an untrained individual injects the pigment, the results are relatively permanent. When people want their tattoos removed, most physicians today consider laser surgery as one of the best methods.” During treatment, pulses of light from the laser are directed onto the tattoo pigment. Over the next several weeks, the body’s microphages remove the treated pigment areas. “The Q-Switched Nd: YAG on the Harmony XL laser system allows you to effectively treat dark tattoo inks, specifically black, blue, red and green. Patients should expect to come back for several treatments to achieve expected results,” notes Best. Tattoo ink and natural pigmentation like melanin absorb short pulse duration/high peak energy Q-Switched pulses so quickly that they create a photo-acoustic effect within the pigment clusters. This effect breaks down the ink into much smaller particles that can be more easily removed by the body’s natural filtering system. Best points out that the key advantages of the Q-Switched Nd: YAG are that it’s easy to administer and simple to switch between wavelengths. It is also able to treat dermal pigmented lesions such as nevus of ota and freckles.
Acne scarring According to Hitech Lasers’ Naomi Olivier, ablative CO2 lasers with fractional delivery are considered to be the gold standard for successful and safe treatment of acne scars, with good results in medium-depth scars. A new MultiMode fractional form of CO2 laser treatment – Combo mode – which combines both deep and superficial ablation and coagulation using the AcuPulse system, is now available from Hitech Lasers. The new Combo mode gives both physicians and patients the ability to conjugate the wellknown results of ablative lasers with a short recovery time and a low incidence of side effects.
Professional Beauty July 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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Pigment Restoration Acne Clearance Superficial Vascular Lesions Vascular & Pigmented Lesions
• Laser/RF Sales • Training • Education • Repairs • Maintenance • Installations V The Ultra Platform for Facial Contouring
Skin Rejuvenation Various Skin Conditions Super Hair Removal Skin Tightening
Multi-frequency
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Leg Veins
In terms of RF treatments for skin tightening and body contouring, the Viora Reaction, distributed by Medilase, goes beyond single frequency limitations. Reaction’s multi frequency channelling and vacuum therapy offers the aesthetic professional an excellent level of control and targeting depth precision that delivers immediately visible results.
Wrinkles & Acne Scars Tattoo Removal & Fractional Non-ablative Skin Resurfacing Fractional Ablative Skin Resurfacing Hair Removal & Pigmented Lesions
Radial shockwaves Sternlaser and Zimmer Aesthetic Division introduces the Zwave, an exciting cellulite treatment utilising RSWT (radial shockwave therapy). Radial shockwaves are high energy sound waves that are generated pneumatically outside the body. They are coupled over the skin surface close to the pain zone in human tissues and radiate radially (spherically) from this point outwards. This radial distribution means the treatment is perceived as particularly gentle. After the treatment the tissue around the pain zone reacts to the sound waves with an increase in metabolic activity, which as a result tightens the epidermis. The acoustic waves and mechanical massage also stimulate blood flow, neovascularisation and the production of collagen. The improved metabolism and circulation accelerate the removal of lymph fluid, the skin becomes more elastic and its firmness is visible after only a few treatments. PB
Professional Beauty July 2014
The Comfortable Way to Eliminate Unwanted Body Hair
The Comfortable Way to Tone and Tighten your Skin
Contact: Andy Best Tel: +27 (0) 12 998 9844 Fax: +27 (0) 86 219 1942 Cell: +27 (0) 72 574 3159 Website: www.bestlasers.co.za Email: info@bestlasers.co.za
Laser Skin Resurfacing & Rejuvenation
product focus – mood enhancers
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In the
Mood
An atmosphere of tranquillity and relaxation is all important the moment a client enters your spa. The use of candles and oils is essential to set the appropriate mood.
Inspirational journey Thalgo’s Indoceane Scented Candle is inspired by a journey through the Indian Ocean and ideal for all those wanting a beautiful, warm fragrance that takes them on a journey to the heart of the Orient. The candle is infused with spicy notes of coriander, cardamom and incense, combined with the inviting notes of patchouli.
011 880 3850
Versatile oils
Soy gliding Milk Solutions’ Soy Massage Candle not only offers the therapist exceptional glide when it is used as a massage medium but also infuses the room with a subtle yet pleasurable honey and rooibos scent. The candle is produced using the highest quality soy wax, a clean-burning substance which offers a healthier alternative for the spa or salon.
Spalicious mood enhancing oils have three uses –bath oil, decadent massage medium or nourishing body oil. The Hazelnut Oil is used as an anti-oxidant, anti-ageing and skin tightening oil. It is enriched with almond oil to prevent the skin from drying out and vitamin E to reverse the signs of ageing. The Spalicious Jasmine Oil is used as a muscle relaxant and mood enhancer. Jasmine is also an effective expectorant.
011 312 7840
011 784 0376
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty July 2014
When start-up funds run out, working capital becomes critical. Without it, your salon’s potential is limited.
But finding financial support for growth isn’t easy; traditional banks want personal surety and the approval process can be long, complicated and costly. Fixed installments and repayment terms mean time wasted worrying about meeting month-end commitments, especially if revenue is cyclical. Our funding solution is different. We give you the cash you need today, for an agreed amount of your future card revenue. You can then focus on growing your salon, reassured that payback is working with your salon’s performance – as a % of each future credit or debit card sale you make. So when sales are slower, you pay less and in busier times, more. No fixed anything. Just
simple, fast funding for small businesses.
011 217 2880 | www.merchantcapital.co.za
product focus – mood enhancers
55 From the sea Phytomer’s perfumed candle, Sea Mist, is made from aromatic marine water containing cistus, helichrysum and sea lavender to stimulate the ‘feel good’ hormones, B-endorphins, for relaxation and a calming effect. The candle is made with 100% recycled glass and has 15 hours of burntime. It gives consumers the unique opportunity to take Phytomer’s ultra-relaxing marine spa-experience from the spa into their homes.
011 486 4904
Breathing in CSpa’s modern aroma-wellness philosophy is perfectly demonstrated in the brand’s Inhale products. A signature fragrance has been paired with each of Cspa’s professional treatments to create an additional sensory experience for the spa client. A total of five Inhale options exist, all of which can be used as a room and linen mist, to fragrance either working or home environments.
011 880 3850
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty July 2014
nails
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Ready, set, go! Professional Beauty hosted its first expo in South Africa in 2004 along with the inaugural Nail Competition. Ever since then the competition has taken place on an annual basis, with attendance growing phenomenally each year, along with the skills and talents of the competitors, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
T
he Nail & Make-up Competition is very much a highlight of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo and attracts competitors from all over South Africa and internationally. As the director of the Nail & Make-up Competition, I am pleased to announce that the sponsors so far for the nail competition are Sparkle Cosmetics & Training Academy as overall sponsor plus Morgan Taylor and Calgel as category sponsors. More sponsors will be announced very soon. Having been on both sides of the curtain as a competitor and judge, I understand
Am I prepared enough?
I wonder what the judges are expecting...
and know how nerve-wrecking the competition can be for anyone, no matter how experienced they are. But it can also be extremely rewarding and probably one of the most effective ways to gain further experience. So, how do you know if you are ready to enter into a competition? If you have been a nail technician for a couple of years and think you have above average skills in applying nail enhancements, then this may be the perfect opportunity to prove it. Whether you are already an experienced professional or just starting out, the competition will assist you in assessing your skills and techniques.
How will competing benefit me?
Professional Beauty July 2014
I love ♼ competing!
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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Top tips Tracey Lee is an international educator from Holland who has won many nail competitions internationally and in South Africa at the Professional Beauty Nail Competition. She advises: Tracey Lee and Sonette van Rensburg Photographic category winning pic
competition. She should be your partner in crime.
Always finish your set
What is expected Most people competing for the first time do not really know what to expect. If you are thinking about competing but don’t know where to start, then the following information may be very helpful to guide you. After entering a few competitions you will notice that the same techs usually enter time and again, as very few first-time competitors win. It takes skill and determination to succeed, so if you don’t win or get placed, don’t look at it as a reflection of your work but as a challenge to try and perfect your skills for the next time. Your work needs to be consistent and disciplined and your preparation meticulous. Do not leave anything to chance; each and every nail that you construct should look the same - in length, shape, form, C curve and overall profile. It will really help you on the day if you are confident and able to create beautiful nails every time.
Areas to note There are some areas that you need to pay careful attention to in order to be fully prepared: • Rules & Regulations - Preregister for the competition; this guarantees space and assists with R
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Fail to prepare = Prepare to fail One of the most essential parts of competing is to ensure that you allow yourself enough time to prepare for the competition. Practice, practice, practice. Practice your timing, practice working with your model, practice your technique. One of my mentors, Elena Popova, advises that you do at least 21 sets of nails prior to competition. It is only with 21 sets that your movements become habit. If you don’t have a model to train on all the time, train on a practice hand, on tips, or on your boyfriend!
Find a mentor Find someone within the industry that you admire and respect. Take pictures of your nails and send them to your mentor to help you identify your mistakes and give you tips and tricks on how to perfect them.
Find a good model Your model is an essential part of your competition strategy. Not only should she have perfect hands and nails, but she must be as committed to your goal as you are. She should be able to keep you focused when you are stressing and able to work with you on your timing. Teach your model a good regime to look after her hands and nails leading up to the
This is an essential part of competing, but also an essential part of practicing. No matter what happens, ALWAYS finish your set. Even though you may break a nail during the competition, with nine good nails, it is still possible to place, but with 10 unfinished nails, it will not be as easy.
Timing When practicing try to ensure that you finish 30 minutes prior to the official finish time. During the competition there are many external circumstances (temperature/draught/stress) that can affect your timing, so the additional 30 minutes will then come in handy.
Speak to the judges At the majority of competitions, the judges are available afterwards to discuss the score sheets. Take this opportunity to speak to the judges to understand why the points were allocated as they were.
Have fun! I think this is the most important tip. As stressful as competing may be, try and have fun with it. It is the perfect opportunity to meet other competitors and share experiences. Compete to put your skills to the test and to develop your skills. Winning should be a goal, but should not be the ONLY reason to compete!
Sportsmanship The true winners are the competitors that are happy when they win and also happy for others when they don’t.
Professional Beauty July 2014
nails
58 planning. Once you have entered make sure to read the Rules & Regulations of the competition thoroughly.
Katia Da Silva is a master educator who runs a training academy and won the custom colour category in the 2013 competition. This is how she prepares:
• What to expect – As a competitor and judge, I myself have said and heard this from first time competitors: “If I only knew what to expect”. The only way you learn is by competing. Always strive for perfection and never give up on yourself. • Competition Preparation – It’s amazing how quickly the time will tick away during a competition. Therefore preparing, planning and managing your time is going to make all the difference. Have your model help you to keep your time on track. You’re in a different environment doing nails under pressure, so spend the time wisely on the most important aspects. Use new, fresh products and implements to ensure that products are not contaminated with anything that could cause you to loose valuable points. Implements should be perfectly clean. Hygiene and sanitation procedures will also count towards points in the competition.
✻ Understand the rules and regulations 100% and then research my category on the internet to see the international standard. ✻ My model is someone who I am comfortable and relaxed to work on. She keeps me calm and helps with my time keeping. Her nails are always well kept and manicured one week before the competition and then manicured again the day before. She generally uses her cuticle oil intensively before the competition to make her hands and skin look good. ✻ I like to sit where there is space and less people so that I do not get distracted. ✻ I have found certain tool and products work best for me so I stick to them. ✻ I always keep a second small set of product handy, in case of accidents.
Competition readiness programmes Attending competition readiness programmes before a nail competition can be very beneficial in preparing you. Knowing exactly what the criteria for winning nails are, what is expected of you and what the judges are looking for, will definitely give you a better chance at achieving a winning set of nails.
✻ I try to finish a few minutes within time so that I have time to double check shapes and lengths. ✻ After the competition, it is always good to see the winning nails so that I know what standard I need to reach. It important to also get constructive criticism from the judges. ✻ I am proud to say that I love competing with the great technicians in the country. We all get on and behave professionally. This eases the nerves and creates a more fun and relaxed ambience, as we can share what went wrong and what went right without being criticised. They are amazing competitors to have on the floor. ✻ Share with your clients that you will be competing as this shows you are interested in progressing your professional career. If you are placed, humbly accept that there is still room for improvement. Try and have your salon owner expose your achievement and this will help to bring in new clients. “Greatness is in the eye of the beholder.”
There are various categories in the Professional Beauty 2014 Nail competition Make sure you enter the ones that you are most skilled at.
• Nail Art Competition * Photographic * Tip Box art * Gel Creations * 3D fantasy • Tip with product overlay – Two levels available to enter: Novice and Intermediate
* Gel * Liquid and Powder • Sculpting using – Two levels available to enter: Intermediate and Masters
* Liquid and Powder * Gel • Custom Colour Enhancements • Manicure • Gel Polish Manicure
Professional Beauty July 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
nails
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The Original Permanent
Nail Colour System
• Skills and Application – A nail stylist may have entered many a competition feeling confident and sure of their skills, but don’t rely on that alone. It is virtually impossible to win a competition without practicing or following these guidelines. I have entered a few competitions myself and the two that I won were due to constant practising. Not winning should never ever stop you from going back and trying again, but keep in mind where you went wrong the previous time and work diligently to improve on that. • Competition Set-up – Try and be as prepared as possible with all your products and equipment ready to be set out as soon as you are allowed to enter the competition area. Prepare a list for yourself at least one week prior to the competition and check it the day before.
Remember one important key fact and that is to compete against yourself and to take your capabilities to the limit.
• What the judges are looking for – What is considered to be a perfect set of nails is a question that has been posed by many nail stylists. We are all different and also see things differently. However, judges are given very specific criteria and areas to look for when judging competitions. Their jobs are not easy, it takes a keen attentive eye, and they need to be as fair as possible and award marks according to what they need to look out for in each and every area of your work. • The Rewards – Draw up a reasonable list of goals, such as focusing on the purpose not the prize. Compete for the right reasons; take critique as constructive so that you can learn and improve from it. Even if you decide never to compete again, it is a good way to compare your work and get timesaving and technical tips that can only improve your work in the salon, which is what the competition is all about anyway.
®
®
Conclusion To conclude, a competition should be a positive and good learning experience. Even if you don’t win you will emerge richer for the experience and the skills that you have practiced will enhance your work. Good luck to all who decide to participate in this challenge; you are all winners for even taking the plunge to compete. PB Sonette van Rensberg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 25 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191
Professional Beauty July 2014
Smoke & Mirrors nail collection
Everything you need,
from root to tip! Some attractions at the biggest event in the hairdressing industry
# # # #
Live stage presentations and demonstrations Innovation in cutting, colouring and styling Latest products and equipment
Exclusive product launches and show offers
Bo ok yo
F ur e e r
t
ic ke
ta
tw ww .pr ofe ss
JOHANNESBURG
ion alh in: Johannesburg air.c o.za ee. f at: Gallagher Convention Centre e c a nd s a ve the R75 on-site entran on: 31 August and 1 September 2014
hair news
Crowning glory
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Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.
Problem solvers The Nouvelle Kapillixine line was created and developed to combat the most widespread scalp and hair problems. Clean Sense Shampoo helps prevent dandruff and itchiness with its antibacterial properties. It leaves hair feeling clean, shiny and strong, while the Normalizing Cleanser normalizes sebum production for greasy hair and scalps. Energy Care Treatment is formulated with vitamin E to prevent hair loss.
011 608 3153
Multipurpose oil Rich in vitamins and anti-oxidants, Inoar Argan Oil Treatment Oil smooths hair and prevents split ends. This is a nonoily hair oil that acts as a moisturiser. It absorbs oil, keeping the hair healthy and shiny. Designed for professional use, Inoar Argan Oil promotes hair fibre renovation and can be used as a heat protector and a serum. It can also be added to colour to leave it more vibrant.
Heavenly brushing The Tangle Cherub from Hair Angel is an ultra-hygienic compact detangling brush with antimicrobial, protected bristles. It is perfect for detangling, to be used on wet or dry hair, for hair extensions, children’s hair and blow drying. Available in a variety of colours, the brush is heat resistant, anti-static, kind and gentle on the hair.
010 591 0691
012 686 7067
‘Hairy’ app Tanaz Hair, Body and Nails recently launched an app, believed to be a first in the South African hairdressing industry. Conceived by Tanaz co-owners Richard Worries and Shelene Shaer, the app is described as an extension of the Tanaz business. It provides relevant services and information and allows clients to book appointments or interact with the brand online.
011 786 2976
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty July 2014
CONVENTION 2014
Rejuvenation is the Future! Dates: 30 Aug to 1 Sept 2014 Venue: Gallagher Convention Centre What can you expect to gain?
Earn up to 13 CPD points
✚ Improve and rejuvenate your current practice ✚ Gain first-hand advice on the latest techniques and products, and gain top tips from industry experts ✚ Network with colleagues, and discuss the issues and challenges facing the industry today ✚ Earn up to 13 CPD points by attending the convention Supported by:
Returning this year is the
Medical Aesthetics Exhibition Reputable suppliers offering you the opportunity to network and source information face to face. • Leeynx Technologies • Lamprobe • Conquest Aesthetics • Optiphi
Leeynx Technologies
For more information and to book your seat, visit
www.medicalaesthetics.co.za
medical aesthetics
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Toxins & fillers - the lowdown
In the fight against wrinkles and sagging skin, many opt for the quick fix of botulinum toxin and dermal fillers. Karen Ellithorne asks three experts some of the questions we have often wondered about but have never had clarity on.
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Professional Beauty July 2014
medical aesthetics
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W
e have all seen the expressionless faces and over-exaggerated lips of some celebrities in the media, and wondered why anyone would want to do this to themselves. In reality we all want to age gracefully and embrace our wrinkles, but today people are living longer and having to work way past retirement age, so maintaining our youthfulness has become an important factor. Dr Bryan Mendelson, the former president of the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, says that pretty people tend to have better relationships and earn more money than their less attractive peers. This explains why medical aesthetic treatment has become so popular. However, aesthetic treatments have always been controversial due to the publicity these treatments have received in the press, when the results achieved on celebrities are neither favourable nor subtle.
Q&A 1
If someone has botulinum toxin continually long-term, is there a danger that the paralysed muscles may atrophy at some stage?
Dr Malcolm Murdoch: No, botulinum toxin causes a temporary, dose-dependent and fully reversible paralysis of the injected muscles. During the time of paralysis there will be muscle atrophy, but full strength will be regained once the effects of botulinum toxin wear off. Repeated treatments before full recovery will result in sustained muscle atrophy (and this may indeed represent the desired effect). However, once such treatments are stopped, recovery of the treated muscles will occur and full strength will be regained. This was demonstrated by the results of a nine-year longitudinal study of 800 patients by Carruthers & Carruthers in 2004. Dr Renier van Aardt: Although it is true that muscles atrophy during long durations of not being used, they can certainly regenerate when treatments cease. In the case of receiving botulinum toxin for cosmetic use though, it actually works in the patient’s favour, by extending the intervals between treatments and thereby lowering the cost of maintaining the cosmetic results.
2
Is it true that botulinum toxin treatments cause new lines to develop elsewhere, as you end up using muscles that you would not normally use to compensate for the botulinum toxin-paralysed muscles?
Murdoch: Yes, if some of the muscles in a ‘synergistic group’ have not been treated then increased neuronal input will cause these muscles to hypertrophy and may produce new lines. An example of a ‘synergistic group’ is the frown muscles, which consist of up to seven muscles. If only three of these muscles are treated, then when a patient tries to frown, supra-normal neurological activity will occur in the non-treated muscles, causing their hypertrophy. Van Aardt: Areas that are typically treated, for instance the glabella, or depressors of the mouth corners, target a specific muscle complex, leaving none, or very minor ability to compensate with adjunctive muscle activity. Often patients will notice other lines in the vicinity as the target areas become smoother, but it is usually only because they appear more obvious in contrast. Even if an area does become affected by compensatory movement, it is usually easily remedied by a touch-up treatment.
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3
What is the history of toxins and how long have they been used safely in humans?
Murdoch: The discovery that botulinum toxin is produced by strains of the bacteria, clostridium botulinum, was made in 1897 by Belgian microbiologist Emile van Ermengem. The first human trials on the therapeutic uses of the toxin were conducted in 1980 for the correction of strabismus (squint). In 1989, Botox, manufactured by Allergan, Inc. was licensed by the FDA (Federal Drug Administration), making it the first commercially available botulinum toxin. The use of Botox for cosmetic reasons was licensed by the FDA in 2002. Presently, more than 30 million patient treatments with Botox are performed every year.
4
What do doctors mean when they talk about off-label use?
Van Aardt: Off-label use refers to using a prescription medication in a way that did not receive approval by the regulatory body, such as the FDA, either because no studies for a particular use were submitted, or because insufficient evidence was provided. Doctors may, in their professional discretion and judgement, use a medication in an off-label manner, as long as it is disclosed to the patient and consent was given.
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5
How long before the customer sees a result?
Van Aardt: Results can become evident as soon as an hour after a treatment is done, but the effects usually peak about 10 days after. There is some variation between patients in this regard.
6
Do you have any specific home-care advice post-treatment?
Murdoch: From a biological point of view, avoiding physical pressure in the area of injection is recommended, since the botulinum toxin molecules must undergo active transport from the extra-cellular environment into the nerve cell. Additionally, since the botulinum toxin molecule is actually an enzyme, heating the tissue to temperatures above physiological normal may cause the enzyme to be de-natured. I advise my patients that pressure and heat in the treated area should be avoided for six up to 24 hours.
7
What is the correct treatment protocol for botulinum toxin?
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Van Aardt: In the initial phase of about 12 months, treatments should be spaced about three to four months apart to relax the muscle enough to weaken it. Thereafter, treatment intervals will gradually prolong because the muscles shrink and weaken and plateau at about six months for most patients. Some areas may not last as long, due to differences in muscle shape and size. Treating more often than 91 days is not harmful, but it would be wasteful. R
Professional Beauty July 2014
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8
Can you have laser and RF treatments at the same time as having botulinum toxin?
Murdoch: No. It is not advisable to combine laser or RF treatments with botulinum toxin because of the risk of denaturing the toxin molecule due to the heat generated by the device. In addition, a more even and aesthetically better result from the laser or RF treatment may occur when the wrinkles are relaxed and the skin smoothed. Most practitioners recommend treatment with botulinum toxin first and the laser or RF device after two weeks.
Fillers 9
Is there anything specific to look for when purchasing a dermal filler?
Murdoch: There are over 180 different HA (hyaluronic acid) fillers on the market, as well as numerous other filler materials. Because dermal fillers are registered as medical devices and not scheduled medications, less rigorous regulatory requirements need to be fulfilled before these products may be marketed. This means that a wide range of quality is presently available. For patients and practitioners alike, it is essential to choose a product that has proven clinical benefits, has undergone rigorous testing and has an extensively studied safety profile. It is advisable to choose a product from a leading global brand, with an outstanding clinical heritage.
10
Modern-day fillers consist of hyaluronic acid. Please elaborate on this ingredient.
Ursula Hunt: HA is a gel-like water holding molecule that is a space filler and cushioning agent. It cushions joints, nerves, hydrates skin and hair, and fills the eye. HA acts as a network that transfers essential nutrients from the bloodstream to skin cells. The presence of HA in epithelial tissue has been shown to promote keratinocyte proliferation and increase the presence of retinoic acid, causing skin hydration. Present in the extracellular matrix of basal keratinocytes, HA is critical to the structural integrity of the dermal collagen matrix. These benefits make hyaluronic acid a very effective topical humectant. HA helps to retain over 1000 times its weight in water within the cells of skin, making it an excellent moisturiser. No other biological substance can retain as much water as HA, resulting in increased smoothness, softening and decreased wrinkles. Decreasing levels of HA are known to accompany the ageing process and it is estimated that by the time we reach our mid-40s, the synthesis of HA is roughly half that required by the body.
11
How long can one expect the results of a filler and botulinum toxin treatment to last?
Dr Marshall Murdoch is a plastic and reconstructive surgeon, practising at Donald Gordon Medical Centre, Parktown North, Johannesburg. Email marshall.murdoch@gmail.com Dr Renier van Aardt MB, ChB, CCFP is a Canada-based aesthetic doctor and also the appointed International trainer for Hyacorp fillers. For more details about his training options in South Africa contact: louise@leenyx.co.za Ursula Hunt is the managing director of DermaFix South Africa. Email ursula@dermafix.co.za
Van Aardt: This is a complex question as we now know a lot more is at play than simply the nice, immediate effect of the products. The skin and tissues influenced by these treatments start correcting and become part of a dynamic process of healing and remodelling, literally reversing the effects of aging in the treated areas. Patients that receive appropriate correction to begin with and maintain the results at appropriate intervals experience a remarkable continuing improvement over time and require less and less product and treatment intervals as a general rule. Our skin and tissues have a remarkable ability to heal and fillers and botulinum toxin not only act as catalysts for repair, but also create the environment that allows our skin and tissues to return to their original position if treatments are done appropriately by an experienced doctor. PB
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product news
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In the market Our round-up of newly launched products and innovations.
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Luscious lipsticks
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Refined gel
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CIDESCO introduces a portfolio of new diplomas SAAHSP reports that CIDESCO (Comité International d’Esthétique et de Cosmétologie), the world standard for beauty and spa therapy with accredited schools in over 33 countries worldwide including South Africa, has announced the launch of three exciting new diplomas.
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they can be assured that they have received a world class qualification that is second to none.” Gund believes that the new diplomas will enable graduates to stand out in an increasingly competitive skills market. The Spa Therapy Diploma gives candidates the opportunity to obtain a diploma in spa therapy without the prerequisite of a qualification in beauty therapy. CIDESCO recognised the need for a stand-alone qualification which is now available to anyone who would like to pursue a career in the spa industry. CIDESCO’s new Beauty & Spa Management Diploma has been developed to give graduates a real competitive edge in the market place. The course includes a greater emphasis on the range of activities required to manage an organisation or business, such as human resources planning and customer service. This Post Graduate Diploma is available to holders of the CIDESCO Diploma in Beauty Therapy and/or Spa Therapy and will equip any student with the necessary skills to
Professional Beauty July 2014
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