Pro beauty July 2015

July 2015

www.probeauty.co.za

Staff squabbles Resolving disputes

Heated exchange Radiofrequency technologies

Busted!

Techs get technical Nail Competition preparation

paytheprice Costing facial treatments

32

In this issue...

Regulars

Spa Focus

5 Industry news

29 Greener pastures

Local and international news

51 Hair news

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

60 Product news

The latest news from SAAHSP

Business 13 Insider Salon/Insider Spa

31 How green is your spa?

Tracking the industry with stats All your questions answered

18 An accurate calculation

The Green Spa Network

32 Cullinan Hotel opens Mangwanani spa

New spa has African flavour

Medical Aesthetics 57 Static ageing

Pricing facial treatments

The lowdown on dermal fillers

Nails 53 From both sides of the ‘Nail Curtain’

14 Ask the experts

Creating an eco-friendly spa

All the latest launches

63 SAAHSP

Preparing for the Professional Beauty Nail Competition

Features 34 South of the chin

22 Meet and greet

41 Skincare gets alphabetical

The importance of networking

24 Conflict resolution

How to deal with staff spats

Maintaining your salon

The rise of Alphabet Creams Latest radiofrequency technologies

49 Lashing out

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Neck and bust treatments

42 The heat is on

27 Sprucing up

18

34

Eyelash serums

Professional Beauty July 2015

Welcome

A

s the world becomes increasingly more environmentally conscious, the onus is on spas, as users of a wide array of water-based treatments, laundry services and disposable items, to adopt green practices to reduce their carbon footprint. This issue of Professional Beauty includes valuable information on how to take the first steps towards a greener spa operation.

There seems to be a constant dynamic in this industry of fast turnaround of therapists at spas and salons. A happy therapist, and one who is likely to stay, is one who is comfortable with her co-workers and environment.

Here we provide tips on how to resolve disputes between staff on any issues that may arise, such as petty jealousies and perceived laziness.

It’s nearly time for all competitive nail techs to arm themselves with their tools and creativity to wage war on each other (so to speak) at the Professional Beauty Nail & Make-up Competitions. As any past winner will tell you, preparation for competitions is of the utmost importance, which is why this issue features detailed advice from experts on how to prepare for the biggest and most exciting nail competition of them all, to take place on 31 August at Gallagher Convention Centre, as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

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Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/ or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

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Publisher Mark Moloney

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industry news

News

5

All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

A lash-filled decade Luscious Lashes International is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year and will be introducing new courses and products.

“W

e currently offer Classic Lashes and Russian Volume Lashes training and our new courses are Classic Advanced Lashes, Lash Art, FlashLash, Eyebrow Xxtensions and Threading,” says Luscious Lashes founder Lesleyann Altree.

Looking back at the company’s history, Altree reflects on a decade of experience, technique updates, product research testing and working closely with the manufacturers to ‘tweak’ the product until it is ‘just right’.

“All this has ensured that we are still the number one choice in the market,” continues Altree. “We would like to thank all our clients and students for their support, because without them

we would not have reached our 10th anniversary.”

Altree did her training in lash extensions with US-based companies Novalash and Sassylash more than 10 years ago.

“From a one-woman show, Luscious Lashes has evolved into an international company with a comprehensive network of franchised trainers in South Africa and elsewhere,” states Altree. “All our franchise trainers have international certification in the application of either Classic and/or Volume extensions through LASHacademy UK and our course material is accredited by the international body LashInc.” Altree joined an elite club of lash masters when she was featured in the Lash Masters Volume 2 book, published

Stevens joins Hitech The Hitech Group has announced the appointment of Raymond Stevens as Electronic Service Engineer.

“Raymond brings over 14 years of experience in the electronic service field to Hitech Lasers, Medilase and Hitech Laser Systems. With his wide technical experience and specialised knowledge of electronics, we know that Raymond will be a great addition to our team.

“In May Raymond attended a comprehensive training programme at Lumenis on their range of aesthetic products,” says Naomi Olivier of the Hitech Group.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

this year. She is the first South African and one of only 30 people worldwide to feature in this international bestselling publication.

News in pictures

International MUD (Make-up Designory) executives, Troy Watson and Paul Thompson, joined MUD South Africa owner, Brenda Botha, to launch the country’s first ever MUD Studio, at Morning Glen Mall in Johannesburg on 4 June.

Professional Beauty July 2015

industry news

6

Dr Schrammek comes to SA The Dr. med. Christina Schrammek Kosmetik brand is now in South Africa and is seeking a local distributor.

“W

e know that nothing similar to our Green Peel treatments is available in South Africa. Furthermore, we’ve had requests in the past from South African beauticians wanting to know how they can get our products.

“Last year we visited the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show to assess the South African market. We decided to start our active acquisition process by exhibiting in this year’s show at the end of August,” says export manager Birgit Schmitz.

She believes that the Dr. med.

Christine Schrammek Kosmetik range is unique. “Our Green Peel treatments are organic and, in combination with our derma.cosmetics products, we are able to help anybody who has serious

■ Sorbet to open in UK: South African beauty franchise Sorbet will open its first Sorbet Salon in Muswell Hill, London during July this year. The salon will be company-owned, with a further two company-owned salons to open over the next year, before franchising opportunities will open.

■ Chanel’s first spa: Designer fashion brand Chanel is to open its first-ever spa in Paris.

The spa will form part of the Ritz Hotel Paris’ three-year renovation and will open at the end of the year. Chanel Au Ritz Paris will be wholly devoted to Chanel’s skincare brand.

Dr Schrammek-Drusio skin problems. We have a history of nearly 60 years coupled with proven success in more than 50 countries.”

Hennessys reclaim helm at Pevonia Philippe and Sylvie Hennessy have again gained complete executive ownership of speciality spa skincare brand, Pevonia International LLC. The Hennessys are the original founders of Pevonia, and were the previous sole owners of the company from its inception in 1991 until its sale to an equity partner in 2008.

They plan to drive new global expansion of the brand and continued growth in existing markets.

News in pictures

News in brief

The Faculty of Health & Environmental Sciences at Central University of Technology (CUT), Free State launched the Somatology CUT Spa on 4 June at the CUT Bloemfontein Campus.

Professional Beauty July 2015

■ Hotels still slow to offer online spa bookings: The Luxury Hotels Digital IQ Index, released by digital think-tank L2, revealed that just 41% of high-end hotels give customers the option to book their spa services online. This result constitutes a 4% increase, up from 37% last year.

■ Silver Edition of Pro-Collagen Marine Cream: In celebration of 25 years, luxury British spa brand Elemis has launched the Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Silver Edition in a bumper 100ml size, as opposed to the regular 50ml size.

■ TanOrganic’s Beauty Blogger Awards: Sunless tanning brand TanOrganic has introduced the 1st annual South Africa Beauty Blogger Awards, to run concurrently with the Ireland Beauty Blogger Awards. South African winners will be announced on 22 August 2015 at a gala event in Johannesburg.

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industry news

9

Big moves at Brow Bar The Brow Bar, formerly known as Beautiful Brows, will be opening several express threading kiosks this year, as well as launching what is believed to be the first brow training school in South Africa.

S

ays Beautiful Brows co-founder Unaiza Moideen: “We opened our first kiosk at Clearwater Mall in August 2011. This August we will move to a bigger space in the mall – this will be our flagship and concept store in the country.

“In addition, this year The Brow Bar will open in Melrose, Mall of the South, Durban Florida Road and Sandton City.

Our projected stores for 2016 will be in the vicinity of Pretoria, Cape Town, Bedfordview, Nicolway and Durban.”

Moideen notes that The Brow Bar aims to start selling franchises at the

middle of 2016. Services offered at The Brow Bar are threading, eyelash extensions, brow- and lash-tinting, lash-perming, henna, permanent make-up and lash perming.

She expects the training school to be operational in the third quarter of this year. The school is currently

working towards accreditation with the Services SETA (Sector Education & Training Authority), CIDESCO (World Standard for Beauty & Spa Therapy), ITEC (International Therapy Examination Council) and SAAHSP (South African Association of Health & Skincare Professionals).

Spa Consultants awards top stockists

The Spa Consultants held its annual awards on 9 May at the Private Room in Kyalami, Johannesburg to announce its top stockists and therapists for the Spalicious and Six Sensational Skincare brands.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Mount Grace in Magaliesburg won the Top Spa award, while Hair Sole in Pietermaritzburg was judged Top Salon.

The Top Therapist for Six Sensational Skincare was Annita Gunpath from Hair Sole.

Cradle Health Spa’s Petunia

Mokwena won the Top Therapist for Spalicious Award.

Renata Lupini was judged to be Sales Rep of the Year.

“We hosted 140 guests at the event and it was an amazing night,” says Marisa Dimitriadis, MD of The Spa Consultants.

Professional Beauty July 2015

industry news

10

Relax Mini Spa opens at Breakwater For the first time ever, the Protea Hotel Breakwater Lodge at Cape Town’s V&A waterfront has opened a spa facility.

T

he hotel opted for a Relax Mini Spa Suite, which comprises a couple’s room with a rain shower, single room, manicure station and a reception area.

Relax founder and operations director Noli Mini describes a Mini Spa Suite as ‘a mini luxury day spa escape where a guest/client can enjoy spa treatments of the same calibre as that of a fully pledged spa, in a cozy, intimate, luxurious and exclusive setting’.

Breakwater’s Mini Spa Suite is populated by two full time therapists, student therapists and a spa manager.

It offers facials, manicures and pedicures, waxing, body wraps and body scrubs.

Mini made the decision to open a Relax Mini Spa Suite at Breakwater for a number of reasons. “Within the hotel is the UCT Graduate School of Business where top corporate companies send their staff for day/ weekly or even monthly study programmes. This proved that there is definitely a market for spa services,

especially considering how stressful it is at times for academics.

“It also made sense to open at this venue due to the positive response we got from hotel guests and from our stats. In addition, Breakwater has historic significance, having previously been a prison. The building itself has been in existence since 1901.”

One of the brands used at the Mini Spa Suite is Noli Mini Spa Products, which she herself created. Three different massage oils, a cuticle oil and brown sugar body polish form part of this range, with the facial and

News in pictures Micro-needling pioneer and Environ founder Dr Des Fernandes delivered the first address at the recent CIDESCO World Congress held at the Sandton International Convention Centre in Johannesburg.

Fernandes spoke on micro-needling versus mesotherapy.

body range still in development.

The spa also offers CSpa, Gelish and Medi- Noli Mini Heel.

Products are available for retail.

Breakwater is the first Relax Mini Spa Suite and Mini plans to grow this number to four by the end of 2016.

“Relax has formed exclusive partnerships with over seven hotels in Cape Town and the goal for the next two years is to create Spa Suites at some of those properties,” notes Mini.

Imbalie acquires Prana Prana Products’ assets and distribution footprint have been acquired by the Imbalie Beauty Group.

The main product and equipment brands of Prana Products that will now be incorporated into the Imbalie Beauty stable are Beauté Pacifique, Dermascan equipment, Bodyography Professional Cosmetics, and the Beauty Blender make-up tool.

Prana’s Debbie Wolfendale will become executive director of Imbalie Beauty in charge of the sales, marketing and training businesses.

Esna Colyn will continue as the CEO of the Imbalie Beauty Group, which has both its own distribution footprint and a franchised distribution footprint. Together this comprises 160 beauty salons in South Africa.

Professional Beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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Congratulations to the finalists Day Spa of the Year Touch @ Seasons Urban Glow Danika Spa

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Gala Dinner & awarDs Find ouT who will won the prestigious Professional Beauty Awards, and Professional Beauty industry Awards.

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business trends

13

Insider

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Cape Town, East London and Port Elizabeth to track business in May 2015.

The month in numbers Insider Salon

May 2015 looked good for most of you as you said goodbye to the Easter public holidays. Fifty percent of you said treatment business was up and 17% attributed this to new and increased numbers of staff. One respondent mentioned that even though there was a price increase, business still went up. However, 42% of you said treatment business had gone down. A few respondents said this may be because of winter, as clients seem to go into hibernation. Eight percent of you said that treatment business was the same.

Popular products seem to be assisting in keeping retail business up, as 37% of you said business has gone up, AVERAGE while 36% of you said it has gone TREATMENT down for pretty much the same ROOM OCCUPANCY reason as treatment business.

Twenty-seven percent of you said business stayed the same, while 8% of you do not sell retail at all.

Fifty percent of you conduct staff reviews monthly, 8% once a week, another 8% once every three months.

The remaining 8% conduct staff reviews once every six months. Seventeen percent of you hire your staff out.

All respondents use paper based system for their client consultation cards. Some of you said that you found cards a more reliable system than tablets.

67%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MAY 2015 COMPARE WITH MAY 2014?

50

% BETTER

8

% SAME

42

% WORSE

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HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MAY 2015 COMPARE WITH MAY 2014?

37

% BETTER

27

% SAME

36

% WORSE

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MAY 2015 COMPARE WITH MAY 2014?

78

% BETTER

2

% SAME

81

20

% BETTER

% WORSE

1

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MAY 2015 COMPARE WITH MAY 2014?

% SAME

18

% WORSE

Insider Spa

The spa industry experienced an excellent May 2015 in terms of treatment business and especially, retail sales. One respondent attributed the hike in both treatment business and retail to Mother’s Day, while other spas reported that their retail was much better due to therapist training and the taking on of new, sales-focused staff.

It seems that technology has not yet infiltrated the Client Consultation Card system, as all spas polled record clients’ details on cards as opposed to tablets.

In most instances, once clients complete consultation cards, the details are then input into computers.

All spas polled conduct regular staff reviews – the average seems to be every two to three months. Some AVERAGE spas conduct reviews on TREATMENT an on-going basis, based ROOM on feedback from clients OCCUPANCY following treatments.

57%

Professional Beauty July 2015

business tips

14

Ask the experts Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

Why are skincare products with marine ingredients so good for my skin?

I want to open my own skincare clinic – where do I start?

S

T

he origin of life on our planet was 3 billion years ago, with the first living cells being single cell blue algae. Recent studies show that the use of algae in skincare products has more than doubled since 2004. This is due to the fact that seawater and seaweed are in perfect affinity with our skin and ‘bioavailable’ to the human body. This is one of the reasons why marine products are so efficient, as this remarkable affinity maintains the dynamic balance of the epidermis and delivers all vital micronutrients to ensure a healthy, youthful skin.

With over 60 different bio-available mineral salts in seawater, the human body requires approximately 20 of these whilst only eight are commonly found in agricultural soils. Alongside algae, the oceans are also a rich source of marine collagen, vital in its anti-ageing properties.

Research shows that the anti-ageing effects of marine ingredients provide some of the top results in the world.

Off the Japanese coast, the island of Okinawa has a population of approximately 1.4 million. In 2006, one in every 1 838 people were over 100 years old. A key source of their youth? A diet rich in marine ingredients.

The latest marine active is sea fennel – enhancing skin regeneration and improving excessive pigmentation.

With consistent preservation, a strong code of ethics and sustainable development, the use of algae in skincare products is set to soar.

Alison Yammin is brand manager at Marine Spa Distributors. In 2014 Yammin won the ‘Think Big Award’ at the Mega Partnering Africa Conference.

tart with your unique selling point – what makes you different from your competitors? Pinpoint the reason a client should visit you – is it your customer service, your knowledgeable staff, the treatments you offer, or the brands you stock?

Another very important consideration is who you want as a client, as this will determine your location, marketing strategy, services, products and hours.

Once you have decided on these fundamental elements you can develop your marketing strategy to create awareness around your skincare clinic. Included in this strategy must be PR elements such as inviting beauty editors and beauty bloggers to experience your services. If you have no contacts, hire a PR company to assist you.

Create a website for your skincare clinic that showcases your treatments, customer service elements and staff.

Get active on social media by choosing the correct platform for your business and your communication on these platforms.

Collaborate with like-minded businesses that have the same target audience as you. This allows you to promote your services to consumers who are likely to become clients. In my experience nothing works better than ‘word of mouth’ in our industry.

Visit companies in close proximity and invite the employees to visit your skincare clinic and offer them added value for the first month on any service.

Get all your operational functions in place, ie staff training, computer system, ordering procedure, etc.

Last, but most important, is the budget you have available to set up your business and run it for the first year. Without the money, nothing can happen.

Sonette Donker is the owner of Skin iD and is an internationally qualified professional skincare therapist with nearly 20 years of experience in the industry. She has worked for companies such as Dermalogica, Nimue Skin International, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies and pHformula.

Professional Beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

15 What character traits and skills do I need to qualify as a candidate to work on a cruise liner?

A

s with all customer-related vocations you need passion.

Without passion it is simply just another job. Life at sea is a unique experience and your job is to enhance the cruising experience of the guests on board.

As a qualified professional, whether you’re a beauty therapist, hairdresser, fitness instructor, nail technician or massage therapist, you need passion and focus to be able to provide the best possible service and to exceed the expectations of every guest.

I like to take ordinary people and make them extraordinary. Essential character traits that I look for are: • Confidence • Hard-working, with a ‘can-do’ attitude • Charming and friendly • Energetic and talented.

• Most importantly, SMILE, as it says a thousand words. Life at sea can be hard work, but the rewards are phenomenal. As is often said, ‘You get out of life what you put into it’.

Anyone who is considering applying to work on a cruise liner is

required to be qualified in their chosen profession, both nationally and internationally. I recruit all year round – beauty therapists, massage therapists, nail technicians, fitness instructors and hairstylists.

South Africans are highly sought after on cruise liners because of our outstanding work ethic.

Ginnais Roelofsz is Steiner’s recruitment manager for South Africa. She has worked with Steiner since 2010, having been on board the Carnival Spirit, Freedom and Fantasy. Roelofsz studied at Camelot International in Houghton and has a diploma in Somatology.

What specific aftercare tips should I give to men following waxing?

A

ftercare advice immediately after waxing includes applying a disinfecting gel that stops infection and ingrown hairs from occurring. A soothing cream is not sufficient for this purpose.

Exfoliation is essential for areas that are waxed on a daily basis.

Exfoliation is done whilst bathing or showering, using the exfoliator silicone ripple sponge and not a soft face cloth. Using shower gels or soaps with the exfoliator must be done a daily basis and on the same day as when waxed.

I advise male clients not to go to the gym for a few hours after waxing, and to avoid any sessions on the sun bed or in the sauna, as this increases blood circulation and irritates the pores.

Melinda van der Walt has been waxing clients for more than 20 years.

She trains students and beauty therapists, and offers advanced courses at Helia-D International Health and Beauty Training College, as well as in the Cubicle Conversion loyalty programme.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty July 2015

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business tips

18

An accurate calculation Professional Beauty asked Francisco Garcia, group spa operations director of Amani Spas, to shed some insight on how to price facial treatments in the spa.

O

ne of the most important tasks for a spa manager or spa owner is to price the services they offer correctly, based on the information and guidelines provided by the product houses.

Pricing spa services accurately is an exercise that needs to be meticulously designed. It requires the application of correct business principles, so as to charge the right amount in order to be able to make enough profit. But, on the other hand, we need to be very careful to not out-price ourselves in relation to the same service rendered at one of our competitors.

So, how do we start doing this?

First of all, there is no magic formula that dictates this process. We all work on estimates and on industry standards. There are many points of view that you can bring in when going through this pricing exercise. There are so many variants that you can add to analyse this that it could be a very daunting exercise. I always think it is best to keep it simple and concise so it’s not such a difficult task to complete.

The best advice I can give, before the manager actually gets to price your facials for the customers, would be to make sure you get accurate and updated treatment costings from your supplier. It is crucial to understand these costings perfectly.

Once you have a proper understanding of the costings, the supplier would give you a recommended selling price as per industry R

Professional Beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

19

Professional Beauty July 2015

business tips

20 Make sure you get accurate and updated treatment costings from your supplier. It is crucial to understand these costings perfectly.

standards, or the standard that they, as suppliers, consider acceptable. You, as a spa manager or owner, are free to stick to this recommended selling price. This selling price would have been worked out using a certain mark-up %. The industry standard is to mark it up by between 400% and 500%.

(Take the cost price and multiply x 4 (for 400%) or x 5 (for 500%).

Mark-up Do not be deceived by the figures of the mark-up as they can be misleading and give you an incorrect idea of what the actual cost is.

Remember: mark-up is one thing;

Professional Beauty July 2015

cost of sales is another one and profit margin yet another.

The best advice I can give is to mark-up your facial treatments by between 400% and 500%, whilst still keeping price parity between your competitors.

The industry standard cost of goods (cost of sales) for facials is between 25% and 30% cost of sale for a standard facial. That for advanced facials could be between 30% and 40%. I would not recommend going higher than a cost of goods of 40%, as this calculation only takes into consideration the products used in that treatment, and not the therapist’s time, or the 10% commission you have to pay the therapist.

To calculate the cost of sales percentage, you would take the cost of the facial (as given to you by your supplier) and divide it by the selling price, then multiply by 100.

If the figure achieved is 25% this will mean that the cost of the facial is 25% and your profit margin is 75%. In numbers, this will mean that if you charge R400 for a facial, and your cost of sales is 25%, your cost is R100 and your profit will be R300.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

21

Therapist commission One of the most common variants that you can add to this cost of goods will be the fact that you have to pay 10% commission to the therapist, thus increasing the overall total cost of goods. To factor this in you will then take your cost of goods = R100 + the 10% commission of the total selling price = R40. This will increase your cost to R140, which divided by R400 (selling price) will give you a 35% cost of sales, and a 65% profit margin.

You could drive yourself mad by factoring in how much water, electricity, etc. you consume per treatment, but to be honest I wouldn’t take these factors into consideration. Just concentrate on the cost of goods and the commission you pay out.

Season sales and bulk buying One way to reduce the cost of sales and increase your profit margin would be to benefit from the supplier’s season sales. Or you could benefit from bulk-buying purchasing structures and receive a higher discount % on the cost of the products, thus enabling you to have higher profit margins.

Even though facials are one of the treatments with the highest cost of sales, at the same time they also are the highest retail-revenue-yielding treatments.

Despite the high cost to produce the facial, they are normally strongly linked to great retail sales. PB

Francisco Garcia is the group spa operations director of Amani Spas and has been in the industry since 2008. He was formerly spa director of Arabella Hotel and Spa, and, prior to that, spa manager of Mount Grace Country House. Email francaceres25@hotmail.com

Professional Beauty July 2015

business tips

22

Meet and greet Networking is seriously important and an essential part of any kind of business, writes Debbie Merdjan.

T

he Professional Beauty Johannesburg Trade Show is almost upon us, and alongside this expo runs the Pro Beauty Networking Breakfast Event. One word here is key: networking.

Do you embrace networking? Are you good at it, or does it perhaps terrify you? We actually all network on a daily basis, even if we think we don’t. For example: “I have an amazing wax supplier, you really should try this wax.”

“My friend Jenny is looking for a spa gift voucher, any suggestions?”

“Hi there. I’m Jenny, nice to meet you.”

Networking is not about collecting business cards that you put away and never look at again. It is about interacting with people who could become future clients, or who could refer future clients to you. Networking is about building up relationships with like-minded people, all with the same common interests and goals as you.

Show up Trade shows are a fantastic way to meet people and introduce your business, and, most importantly, to get your name out there. This is where you need to have a networking strategy.

Networking need not be intense, but it is a two waystreet. When you meet someone you need to tell them all about your business, while showing huge interest in theirs.

Before the upcoming International Spa Convention, which runs alongside Professional Beauty Johannesburg, learn as much as you can about the delegates. Use LinkedIn, company websites or social media. Be clear about who you want to meet, have a strategy in place, and stick to it.

The anxiety factor For some people though, meeting and talking to new people can bring on an anxiety attack. According to stats, 51% of people feel anxious about not knowing anyone at a conference and 42% worry about introducing themselves to new people. To help you gain confidence, try some of the following: • Join professional organisations related to your business.

Have a résumé, business cards and a mobile phone at all meetings.

• Give a solid handshake.

• Extend yourself – say hello to everyone.

• Dress well, hold your head up high, look confident and you will be confident.

• And, the most important thing, especially if you are nervous, is to be prepared. When someone asks what you do, answer concisely. Prepare a fabulous, memorable pitch (of between 10 and 30 seconds) that clearly communicates what you do and for whom you do it. This is known as the elevator pitch – it will get you through anything!

• And then always follow through. If you promise to send a mail, call or contact someone – do it timeously. People do business with people they know, like and trust.

Be yourself. Be confident. Be amazing. Get out there.

Network. Enjoy! PB Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin care training. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

Professional Beauty July 2015

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business tips

24

Conflict resolution Salon and spa owners/managers can spend around 50% of their time resolving staff disputes.

Helena van der Vyver provides valuable tips on how to deal with such issues.

W

ith a new generation workforce entering the industry, employee qualities are lacking in terms of interpersonal skills, problemsolving, emotional intelligence, service attitude and the desire to learn.

Stephen R. Covey said, “Begin with the end in mind”. We teach our clients that prevention is better than cure. Let’s apply this sound advice to ourselves.

The interview stage This is your opportunity to find out more about how the employee was brought up, what her challenges are, and how she deals with conflict. It will also reveal where you can assist in her growth.

Do not employ based on qualifications, skill and experience only. Consider including EI (Emotional Intelligence) testing in the interview phase. This will assist in determining emotional maturity, which, at a higher level, will reduce staff disputes.

Note your current team dynamics

and what personality profile would best complement the team. If you have mostly dominant personalities, rather employ someone who would balance the team and who is more even-tempered, introverted and follows the lead.

Employee Manual The Employee Manual should clearly outline company rules and standards, the culture of the business, and so forth.

Share lessons for a healthy team dynamic in the manual. For example, if you are upset with another employee, rather think about and reflect on it for a day, sleep on it and deal with it the following day.

Hands-on management As an owner/manager, steer away from being consumed by administration. Implement systems and programmes to free you up to be a hands-on manager. This leads to stronger relationships and picking up on negative vibes before they become a big issue.

Professional Beauty July 2015

Likewise, there should be unity in the team. Working different shifts can lead to staff not really getting to know each other. Try to have bimonthly team get-togethers outside of the spa/salon in an environment that encourages relaxation and interaction on a different level.

If weekly staff meetings are not possible, do quick, impromptu oneon-one meetings. Support, guide, pre-empt and resolve issues here to prevent them from escalating.

Treat the team fairly and reasonably, not favouring one above the other, or allowing double standards based on performance or non-performance.

Be sure to do at least two performance reviews annually to ascertain areas where staff may be exceeding the desired standard, or falling below it.

Procedures Ensure that your team knows what the procedure is when conflict arises.

If it is not a big thing – let it go and move on. Once the emotions have

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business tips

25 Interpersonal skills Teach your staff the following: • To be slow to anger and not to take offence easily; • To know who they are and not to take things personally; • To look at things objectively, rather than from an emotionally reactive angle; • To be assertive in stating their beliefs and opinions, while simultaneously respecting other people’s points of view; • To set an example of what they believe is the expected standard; • To run their own race. Everyone should be their own fiercest competitor; • To not sweat the small stuff. Sometimes an employee may be in the wrong, but, in the bigger scheme of things, it’s not the end of the world. Rather choose to let it go.

The more that staff can create their own happy place, the less others will be able to influence them negatively.

died down, I suggest that the people involved in the dispute try to talk it out and understand the situation from each person’s point of view.

If talking to each other doesn’t resolve the dispute, the manager should be approached to act as a neutral mediator. In this meeting you should cover: ‘If you could do it over again, what would you do differently to have a better outcome?’ Following this meeting possible counselling or discipline may be necessary.

Spend additional time mentoring an employee if a pattern emerges that leads to staff disputes.

Have house rules in place and display or circulate them in the staff room. For example, “This is a no swearing, gossiping or screaming zone.”

Disputes often start in the mind, so think the best, not the worst.

Scenarios Dispute: A squabble between therapists regarding petty jealousies.

Solution: Keep them busy. You’d be

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amazed at what boredom and not having anything to do can lead to.

Sometimes it’s a personality clash or cultural difference. In the next staff meeting, have each of the squabbling therapists share a quality they appreciate in the other one.

Furthermore, make it a culture in your business to be mindful to praise staff when they do well. Praise them in front of others and put a handwritten note and a small chocolate in their intray. Discipline should be done oneon-one and not in front of others, which could lead to embarrassment.

Dispute: A therapist is expecting to be promoted to senior therapist and then another therapist is promoted instead.

Solution: A vacant position should be open for applications from your full team. Existing staff should have a career plan evident from previous performance review meetings.

Applications should be assessed and interviews done with those who make it to that stage. Those who don’t should be advised of the reason.

Open communication and fairness should triumph.

Dispute: Laziness. If one of the therapists is lazy, it could irritate the other therapists, especially if the laziness goes unnoticed by the salon/ spa manager.

Solution: Systems should not allow for laziness. Basic and specific cleaning standards expected per employee should be clear to all upon commencement of duty and re-iterated in meetings. Weekly accountability should be in place and overseen by managerial staff. If a pattern of not meeting the standards emerges, then counselling and further discipline should be applied. It is very important to ascertain if it is a skills problem or an attitude problem. PB

Helena van der Vyver of 1ne s.p.a has more than 20 years of experience in the salon and spa industry. She became a spa coach in 2014 for home salons, salons and spas.

Email: info@1nespa.co.za

Professional Beauty July 2015

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business tips

27

Sprucing up Keeping the salon looking fresh and well maintained is a constant, unticked box, as salons and treatment rooms take a lot of wear and tear, writes Hellen Ward.

A

beauty salon by its very nature must be pristine – clinical but welcoming, and as perfectly polished, groomed and preserved as the treatments we are offering.

In my salon we have a footfall of 1000 clients per week and 93 staff, so it’s inevitable that a good percentage of our monthly turnover goes on maintenance. A huge chunk of money is constantly reinvested. After all, if the salon doesn’t match the promise, and is grubby or uncared for, I can’t protect my precious price point. People expect to enjoy luxurious surroundings if they are paying top dollar.

Major refurbishment obviously requires much more capital expenditure than mere cosmetic retouching. The shelf life of major equipment (couches, stools, trolleys, mirrors, floor tiles, air conditioning and lighting) is limited in a public place that takes continual battering. I often get asked; is it really that important?

The answer is, sadly, yes!

Yet many salons don’t seem to think that constant reinvestment is necessary, arguing that clients don’t notice the odd shabby towel or chipped paint. Why should our clients feel any different if they have to sit

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on grubby stools, or have intensely personal treatments conducted in less than sterile and pristine surroundings?

People do notice more than we think.

For every one client who bothers to complain, there are 10 others who feel the same but don’t bother to tell you.

You only have to visit review sites like TripAdvisor to know that!

But keeping on top of our critical, client-facing areas requires constant attention. I recently said that having a business is like having a baby who never grows up. It will always need parenting, control, diversion, supervision, and, above all, TLC. Attention to detail is crucial, and does not go unnoticed by the great paying public.

More to the point, reinvestment in surroundings with new equipment, fresh paint and a good old spruce up doesn’t go unnoticed by the team working in them. There’s nothing more beneficial to productivity and customer service, both from the client and the staff’s perspective, in ensuring that the message that gets sent out is – ‘I notice! I care! I’m bothered if things aren’t perfect’.

If the salon, spa and treatment rooms are well maintained and cared for, the team working in them and the clients enjoying those surroundings

will look after them, too. It’s a bit like ex-Mayor of New York Rudy Giuliani taking a zero tolerance policy to the city’s once-burgeoning problem with graffiti. He took the approach that whatever graffiti he spotted, he would repaint within 24 hours. Tubes, subways, public places – he had a swat team to stamp out anything that made New York look unloved and uncared for, following the broken window principle (if there is a street with a window left smashed, it’s inevitable that more windows will be vandalised).

And it worked. New York no longer has anything like the problem it used to with crime and vandalism, because the vandals realised their efforts were in vain. He was on top of it and would not allow the environment to become downtrodden.

There’s a message there – so whip out your cleaning products, and, if necessary, your paint brushes! We have to if we want to stay ahead of the game, and our clients WILL notice.

Rest assured it will be time and money well spent. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.

Professional Beauty July 2015

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spa focus

29

Greener pastures Whether you are starting up a new spa or already have an existing business, you are still responsible for contributing your share towards a greener, more sustainable and eco-friendly environment, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.

L

et’s start with the basics and get them going, and, once you have those in place, then you can look at different ways to reduce your carbon footprint and run a more eco-friendly business.

Lighting

The first step here is to switch off any lights that are not necessary and not in use. Analyse the type of lighting you are using and ensure that you move all lighting to energy-efficient options, such as LED or halogen light bulbs.

Where possible, try to avoid having a main light switch for the spa that turns on all the lighting, as this consumes a huge amount of energy, and it prevents you from switching off those lights not in use.

Energy Look at ways to reduce the consumption of energy by analysing ventilation, cooling and heating. I suggest looking into different methods of heating up the water required for the spa, such as solar heating and solar thermal hot water collectors. Look at ways to generate your own energy, using renewable sources, such as wind, solar or bio-gas.

During winter try to avoid underfloor heating, but if you have to make use of it then switch on areas only needed for that specific day or R

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Professional Beauty July 2015

spa focus

30 This diagram of waste hierachy refers to the "3Rs" reduce, reuse and recycle.

Source: wikipedia.org/wiki/water_management

treatment. Run your steam rooms or saunas only when necessary, and don’t switch them on automatically for ‘just in case’.

The key is to ensure your team is trained to enquire when guests will use facilities, such as steam and sauna, and only switch them on when in use.

Water conservation Recycle, treat and conserve water with systems that don’t require electricity. Start simply by installing low-flow faucet aerators through all taps and shower heads as this can reduce consumption by up to 50%.

Install dual-flush toilets and encourage clients to take short showers and switch off water whilst soaping. Put up signage to encourage clients to reduce the amount of water they use.

Precycle This means that before you buy anything, take into consideration its packaging; maybe opt to buy bulk packaged goods without the outer packaging.

Think about how everything you purchase will be discarded and if any recycling can be done.

Recycle as much as possible. Start by ensuring you have clearly marked recycling containers. Educate staff and clients as much as possible in order to recycle throughout the salon.

Active waste management Get everyone involved in managing paper usage. In fact, don’t have paper lying around and available for use, rather opt for a paper-free environment.

Re-use as much as possible and reduce or stop any disposable items.

B ot t l e d wat e r

No more bottled water, of any kind, shape or form!

• Bottled water uses in excess of 1.5 million tons of plastic per year, which requires 47 million gallons of oil per year to produce, while only 20% of plastic bottles get recycled.

• Rather choose to make water available for use with a recycled paper cup or – even better – a reusable container, such as glass or ceramic cups.

Ask your clients to keep their cup with them for the duration of their visit to reduce the amount of water used to wash them after each use.

Professional Beauty July 2015

Something to really think about in a salon/spa environment is the use of disposable underwear; rather notify guests to bring a spare pair of their own underwear to support the greening of your business. Choose re-usable compresses to use in facial treatments instead of disposable sponges.

Building materials Analyse the building materials you make use of and try where possible to use recyclable or recycled materials and non-toxic paint.

Choose eco-friendly materials as first choice for any building renovations or maintenance work.

In terms of pesticides, select those that can manage and prevent pests in as non-toxic a method as possible.

Speak to your pest controller to discuss options which are less toxic and have fewer odours.

We could go into huge detail and more specifics when it comes to greening up your space, however I feel that if we all start with small steps such as listed above, and actively look for methods to reduce, re-use and recycle, it will make a huge difference in reducing the carbon footprint. PB

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants.

E-mail her on marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.

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spa focus

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How green is your spa?

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This is the question posed by The Green Spa Network, an international organisation which believes that spas play a meaningful role in supporting the health and well-being of people and their communities.

S

pas and their related services constitute an incredibly large industry – generating $60 billion in global revenue ($13 billion in the US alone) and anchoring a $250 billion global spa tourism market, according to the International Spa Association – and as such, occupy an equally large environmental footprint.

The industry typically utilises precious resources for a wide array of water-based treatments, laundry services, and disposable items used in spa services. Additionally, personal care and cleaning products collectively contain 70,000 industrial chemicals, many of which have unknown effects or can be outright harmful to people and the natural environment.

The Green Spa Network views this as an opportunity to make lasting environmental impact on a large scale, starting with sustainability assessments and easilyadoptable practices for individual facilities.

“By adopting green practices, we not only make spas themselves more sustainable, but support the financial sustainability of green businesses and raise environmental awareness among spa clientele,” says The Green Spa Network.

For more information about the organisation visit www.greenspanetwork.co.za

Professional Beauty July 2015

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spa focus

32

Cullinan Hotel opens Mangwanani spa On 26 March this year, Southern Sun The Cullinan in Cape Town opened a Mangwanani Boutique Spa, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

T

he decision by Southern Sun The Cullinan to choose the Mangwanani spa brand was a no-brainer, according to the hotel’s general manager, Garry Reed.

“Tsogo Sun and Mangwanani Boutique Spa have a well-established relationship in their Beverly Hills, Southern Sun Elangeni & Maharani and The Palazzo Hotel properties. So it was a natural decision to open a Mangwanani Boutique Spa at Southern Sun The Cullinan, Tsogo Sun’s flagship hotel in Cape Town,” notes Reed.

Commenting on the spa’s décor, Kerry Gilowey, business development and marketing manager at Mangwanani African Spa, says: “Our

boutique spa design has an African Moroccan touch, with a clean, crisp, fresh feel along with the aromas of our famous Mbali burning oils. There are no other words to describe this boutique spa other than to say it is simply stunning, as confirmed by our many clients who visit the spa on a regular basis.”

“Upstairs we have six boutique massage rooms, which could be used by couples or friends together. These rooms have been designed with beautiful fibre-optic lighting that will transcend the guest into a Moroccan African night sky.”

Professional Beauty July 2015

Glass baths The boutique spa boasts two glass spa baths, which were custom-made and designed to seat four people.

“These baths are for our signature Korean Body Scrub Treatment,” explains Gilowey. “While lounging in these exotic baths, sipping our signature flavoured water, and being gently massaged by the bubbling jets, the guest will already feel utterly relaxed before the treatment even begins.”

She describes the Korean Body Scrub as ‘a must-do treatment’.

“This treatment was introduced

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spa focus

33

Spa at a glance Owner: Erin Limbert Size: 123m2 Hydro facilities: Glass spa baths with bubbling jets treatment offers to remove from your body,” comments Gilowey.

African flavour

by Mangwanani CEO Erin Limbert, who is famous in South Africa for giving thousands of women from underprivileged backgrounds a great opportunity and promise for the future.

On a trip to New York last year, Erin discovered the wonderful Korean Body Scrub treatment. She experienced it first-hand and was absolutely amazed at how beautiful and soft her skin felt after the treatment.

“In Korea itself, the locals do body scrubs regularly to shed themselves of dead skin cells as they believe it revitalises the body and makes them feel completely invigorated. Just as this amazing experience leaves you with a completely new layer of skin, in life too, you need to shed the layers of doubt, insecurity and fear. These layers are just as awful as the old dead grey skin that only this signature

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The Boutique Spa also offers three signature packages, which include all of Mangwanani’s African healing therapies. These packages are: The African Sunrise Pamper, The African Tranquillity and The African Indulge, which includes the Korean Scrub.

Also on the treatment menu are a traditional full-body hot stone therapy massage, a foot massage, a hand massage and a North African head, neck and shoulder massage.

Gilowey points out that Mangwanani African Spa has developed its own signature range of products, which are uniquely South African and cater for relaxation and spa therapies. All products are made with natural and naturally derived ingredients and fragranced with essential oil in line with the brand’s awareness of its carbon footprint.

“We have many talented and professional therapists and nail technicians who offer our signature relaxation therapies and, newly introduced to our Boutique Spa menu, Gelish Nails, which offer a wide range of o n-trend nail colours and nail art to choose from.

“The spa also offers popular poolside treatments and in-room treatments for guests of the hotel, who request this on a regular basis.

We always welcome walk-in clients who are not hotel guests but who want to indulge in the Mangwanani Spa Boutique experience.

Number of rooms: 6 boutique massage rooms, 8 massage areas, 4 manicure and pedicure stations Number of therapists: 20 Spa manager: Tasneem Bardienz

“Recently, as per popular demand from the many corporates who gather at the CTICC (Cape Town International Convention Centre) from around the country and abroad, we offer tailormade treatments to fit into their very busy schedules,” concludes Gilowey.

The Boutique Spa is open seven days a week, from 9am to 11pm. PB

Professional Beauty July 2015

neck and bust

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South of the chin It’s often said that a women’s neck gives away her age much more quickly than her face.

And yet the neck is one of the most neglected areas of the body, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

T

he differences between neck and facial tissue may be small, but they are sufficient enough to warrant specialised treatments and creams, which should also be used on the décolleté and breast area.

One of the biggest manifestations of ageing on these areas is collagen loss, especially after the age of 40. Neck & More from QMS Medicosmetics, formulated by Dr. med. Erich Schulte, is described as ‘an anti-ageing sensation for the sensitive skin of the neck and breast areas’. Intensive moisturising complexes effectively tighten the skin and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

Valuable oils extracted from exotic plants strengthen the connective tissue and give the skin a soft and smooth appearance. The ‘lifting’ extract

of the West African Kigelia fruit is scientifically proven to restore the firmness and contouring of the breast.

The benefits of Neck & More are: it firms and moisturises the skin, promotes circulation, stimulates metabolism and regenerates skin.

Plumping For women in search of an intensive ‘liftingeffect’ treatment to help rejuvenate and plump up their bust and smooth their décolleté, Thalgo R

Professional Beauty July 2015

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neck and bust

35

neck and bust

36

recommends Défi Fermeté. This fine, slightly powdery emulsion reinforces the support tissues of the bust and helps to reshape the breasts.

In addition it has an intensely hydrating action and smoothes the décolleté.

Firm up Mio Boob Tube + Multi-Action Bust Firmer keeps the delicate skin of the bust and décolleté firmer, toned, bright and crinkle-free, as well as providing ‘super sag protection’.

“Boob Tube is rich in CoQ10 to maintain the strength and structure of collagen fibres,” says Janine Janse van Rensburg of Poise Brands. “It is super-nourishing, and so packed full of fantastic natural actives that your skin just responds beautifully to the attention.

“Lines and crinkles are kept at bay so thin skin stays smooth. The bust and décolleté area will look visibly healthier and glowing within days, while Boob Tube’s skin brightening actives take years off sun-damaged skin.”

Potent power Fiberblast C from DMK is positioned as the most potent and Bio-available

Vitamin C Liquid encapsulated in a natural occlusive mineral material.

It uses 20% pure Ascorbic Acid in a liquid form that’s easily absorbed with immediate antioxidant and collagen building benefits.

Also from DMK, Aminodine Spritz is referred to as ‘the golden water’. This spritz is effective in slowing down the cross-linked wrinkling process, firming and toning the skin.

Growth factor DermaFix SND Corrector acts as a growth factor stimulator, signalling fibroblasts to increase collagen and elastin production due to improved skin cell-to-cell communication.

“Utilising a complex of powerful actives, regular use of SND Corrector provides noticeable improvement in skin elasticity over a short period of time, while restoring homeostasis to damaged skin cells,” says DermaFix MD Ursula Hunt.

Massage oils Lilian Terry International has a range of facial massage oils, specifically for more mature and dry skin types. These complexes combine homeopathic remedies with pure essential and carrier oils to provide

Professional Beauty July 2015

a natural, effective treatment for issues such as stretched, scarred and wrinkled skin – exactly the type of problems found in the neck, bust and décolleté areas as one ages.

The Elastoderma massage oil repairs damage, specifically stretched and scarred skin, improves elastin and collagen production and assists with sagging skin and deep wrinkles.

Oxiderma works well for finer wrinkles and is perfect for dehydrated, sensitive skin.

This complex increases oxygen penetration, normalises hormonal activity and stimulates epithelial regeneration – which also makes it very suitable for menopausal skin. R

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neck and bust

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Stretchmarks is a very gentle, hydrating massage oil which is not only wonderful for the prevention and treatment of stretch marks but also for improving skin tone in general – and is safe to use on the breast area.

“By addressing the root causes of sagging, wrinkled skin with our unique combination of homeopathic remedies and hydrating carrier and essential oils, Lilian Terry International offers a natural alternative to these age-old problems,” says the company’s Carli Argirova.

Daily exposure The experts at Environ point out that the décolleté area is exposed to sun on a daily basis, especially when driving in the car, and advise that the client’s daily skincare regime should always include her décolleté. They recommend using all the normal facial regime products together with additional anti-ageing, firming and prevention.

Environ’s Colostrum Gel stimulates growth factors in the skin and can be used in combination with Dermalac and Vitamin A, C, E oil daily. First apply the Colostrum Gel, followed

by Dermalac and Body Oil. A sun protection product like RAD should always be used on the décolleté to provide excellent protection.

Clinical trials

‘Turkey neck’

Leading British spa brand Elemis has extended its acclaimed anti-ageing range with Pro-Collagen Lifting Treatment Neck and Bust.

Noella Gabriel, Elemis director of product and treatment development says: “Independent expert clinical trials verified that, after 28 days of applying Pro-Collagen Lifting Treatment for Neck and Bust, skin crêpiness was reduced by up to 33%, and the skin is proven to be 17% firmer, with a 14% increase in elasticity.”

Pro-Collagen Lifting Treatment Neck and Bust transports highly concentrated actives to target the underlying causes of the visible signs of ageing by enhancing intercellular communication. This results in cellular repair, cell metabolism and cell communication.

Gabriel continues: “Neck and Bust cream draws its powerful anti-ageing properties from marine algae selected specifically for their unicellular form and their ability to mimic the skin’s function. The key marine ingredients are Padina Pavonica, intelligent algae that not only helps the skin’s metabolism, but also helps strengthen the protective calcium layer of the epidermis. Seabuckthorn Seed Oil enhances microcirculation and the regeneration of the epidermis, while the aromatic waters of Samphire (Sea Fennel) help to soothe the skin and combat redness.

“These marine extracts are blended with Royal Jelly, rich in proteins, minerals and vitamins, Cistacea (rock rose), which is known for its ability to decongest the skin and stim ulate production of endorphin hormones, and Propolis, a mineral-rich resinous substance collected by honey bees.”

The ‘turkey neck’ effect, with its reddened, speckled and fragile skin can be gradually improved by twice daily application of Scar Repair Forté Serum, according to Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA, as it reelastisises and thickens the skin so that the blotchiness is less visible.

“Scar Repair Forté Serum contains a very large amount of antiinflammatories to reduce erythema, but more importantly, thickening the skin will make imperfections much less visible,” says Faucitt.

She notes that breast sagging is not restricted to older women so care from an early age is essential.

“With continued in-salon RegimA Zone Power Peel treatments and home care, the improvement will become greater with the removal of ageing solar keratoses on the décolleté and renewed, youthful elasticity of the breasts. Initially the neck may peel, but home care will quickly relieve this and one will gradually be able to remove ageing sun spots, pigmentation and tighten the skin.”

RégimA Breast & Décolléte Firming Complex is a gel type formulation which dries onto the skin, nourishing, yet tightening. It helps keep breasts firm following breast augmentation, reduction or lift. R

Professional Beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

39

neck and bust

40

“The only women who do not get creasing of the décolleté area unless daily prevention care is taken, are those with tiny breasts.

Unfortunately creasing, especially experienced in the mornings, is inevitable with sun damage and age so where possible one must re-elasticise, maintain hydration and treat the décolleté. Our Breast & Décolléte Firming Complex also helps reduce inflammation and premenstrual breast tenderness.”

It’s a bust!

Developed by Ericson Laboratoire, Morpho Bust is original in the sense that it has a volumising effect due to its high performance formulae.

It is now possible to stimulate the fabrication of fat in situ (the main component of the mammary gland) by combining three action mechanisms to redensify the adipose tissue.

Says Ericson Laboratoire’s Tatyana Shuvalova: “Morpho Bust is a complete revitalising treatment of the décolleté and bust, with targeted actions on the size of the breasts as well as on stretch marks and microcapillaries for better support of the bust.

“The new active ingredient, Volufiline, draws its properties from Anemarrhena, an herbaceous plant that grows wild in Japan and the northern part of China. It is a phytosterol without oestrogen and progestin activity or glucocorticoid and testosterone activity.

“Volufiline stimulates the incorporation of lipids by activating the glucose synthesis route, thus promoting the formation of lipid vesicles via adipophilin – a protein that stimulates the genes regulating adipogenesis – and reinforcing the fatty installation.”

elastin, and improves firmness, tone and moisturisation of the neck and décolleté.

Defence

‘Facelift’ Superfacelift from Skin Doctors is a cosmeceutical strength formula which tightens and firms sagging skin and helps to smooth wrinkles. It contains Micro encapsulated Retinol which maintains the freshness of the active ingredients and ensures maximum effectiveness. In addition, it reduces the potential for any adverse reactions to Vitamin A that some consumers might experience.

The product also contains the breakthrough discovery ProDE Jine, clinically proven to help protect the Dermo-Epidermal Junction, helping to make skin look dramatically younger with long term results.

By supporting the health of the skin’s structure the product improves the cell renewal process, stimulates the synthesis of collagen and

Professional Beauty July 2015

Phytomer’s Décolleté Parfait is a fresh, softgel cream that helps defend the neck and décolleté area from premature ageing.

It provides the skin with renovating and brightening ingredients, which reduce the appearance of ‘creased skin’ and helps fade liver spots. Visibly smoother and more beautiful, the skin glows with renewed youth.

Cupping therapy Regular cupping massage, using the Bellabaci system, also allows for proper lymphatic drainage, reducing swelling and fluid retention. The action of the cups stimulates deep blood circulation underneath the skin of your breast. It stimulates nerves inside your breasts that are essential receptors of oestrogen.

This opens up blood flow throughout your entire breast, prompting natural growth. Massaging your breasts is not only for stimulation but also for the overall health of the breast tissue.

The Bellabaci Massage System must be avoided for clients who have breast cancer or have had breast cancer in the past. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

alphabet creams

41

Skincare gets alphabetical Alphabet creams first hit the market in 2012 with the launch of BB (Beauty Balm) Creams that offered a combination of benefits in addition to coverage.

These were followed by CC (Colour Correction) Creams, DD (Daily Defence) Creams and EE (Even Effect) Creams.

T

halgo’s BB Cream Perfect Glow restores radiance to the skin, with a unique combination of vitapulp, an unprecedented active ingredient that seems to visibly breathe new substance into the skin, as well as micro-prisms.

The cream’s skin-embracing texture with coated pigments softens imperfections and irregularities, moisturises the skin and provides effective protection against UV for a perfect velvety finish.

Colour dispersion Juliette Armand’s CC Colour Control Cream combines seven different colour dispersions in a completely natural way, offering cover that adapts to each client’s skin tone.

Says Janine Janse van Rensburg of Poise Brands: “Juliette Armand’s CC Cream contains active ingredients such as Hyaluronic Acid, Aloe Vera,

Multi-action

as ‘a super intelligent product’ that combines make-up and skincare. It naturally enhances the skin through its simultaneous multi-action effects of moisturising, pore-refining, radiance enhancing, unifying and protecting functions.

“CC Crème is the perfect formula for creating flawless skin,” says Ayesha Rajah of A&I Importers. “It goes a lot further than make-up by acting at the heart of the skin to moisture and beautify it.”

Rajah notes that the cream contains complexion enhancing pigments and ‘soft focus’ powders that melt on the skin, instantly bringing it brightness and radiance.

“CC Crème’s advanced ingredients create an ultra-natural finish without the look or feel of a heavy make-up application,” she concludes.

Phytomer’s CC Crème Skin Perfecting Cream SPF20 is described

12 ingredients

Vitamin PP and Matrixyl 3000 to repair skin tone.

“Hyaluronic acid provides the skin with the necessary water reserves and protects it from transdermal water loss, while Vitamin PP increases ceramides and fatty acids, limits water loss and stimulates microcirculation.

Aloe Vera moisturises and contributes to the reduction of skin irritation and inflammations of the sensitive skin type. Absorbent and reflective sun filters SPF 10 are used to offer the skin everyday protection from UVA-UVB rays, while Matrixyl 3000 tetrapeptide smooths wrinkles, fine lines and rough texture. Vitamin PP enhances elasticity, combats blemishes and offers healthy tone and texture of skin.

Coverderm’s CC Cream for Face contains 12 super-powered active ingredients that even and brighten skin tone, while nourishing, moisturising and soothing the skin. It protects against UVA & UVB rays and treats wrinkles, blemishes and irritation and controls sebum, tightens pores and treats facial redness.

“Oil free, lightweight and suitable for all skin types, CC Cream for Face is available in two natural shades.

Clinically tested to be long lasting, hypoallergenic and waterproof, it is ideal for humid and hot climates,” say the experts at Coverderm. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty July 2015

treatment review – rosacea

43

No more ‘red nose’ days Tired of looking like Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer when not wearing make-up, Joanna Sterkowicz opts to try the DermaFix rosacea treatment.

E

ver since I was a little girl, the tip of my nose has always looked ‘rosy’. This situation has worsened with age (due to the thinning of the epidermis) and is particularly exacerbated by the cold winter air.

My rosacea treatment was performed by DermaFix educator Rozlyn Williams at the company’s premises in Northlands Deco Park, Johannesburg.

“Today’s treatment is focused on skin sensitivity,” said Williams.

“DermaFix products have a high antiinflammatory action which helps to calm the skin and diminish redness.

Because rosacea and dehydration often go hand in hand, I’m going to use products that will repair the barrier of your skin by preventing water loss.

“The focal point of this facial is the Organic Colloidal Oat Masque, an ultrasoothing, anti-inflammatory barrier repair treatment. It reduces redness and preserves the integrity of the stratum corneum, while attracting and holding moisture on the surface of the skin. Included in the key ingredients is Beta Glucan, which helps to stimulate the skin’s immune response to make it more resistant.”

Williams commenced the treatment with a double cleanse, first with the

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Gentle Cleansing Gel, a non-stripping foaming gel that removes make-up.

Next came the Hydra Silk Cleanser to restore hydration to my skin. Instead of toner, Williams used the Vitamin C Serum to give my skin a boost.

The Organic Colloidal Oat Masque was applied on top of strips of medical gauze that had been saturated with ACC Copper.

Williams continued: “ACC Copper is an advanced, anti-inflammatory formula that delivers a concentrate of Copper GHK-Cu3 and antioxidants to improve the signs of environmentally induced stressed skin.”

The masque, which is very thick in texture, covered my entire face and was left on for 20 minutes under a steamer to keep it moist.

With a single movement, Williams was able to remove the masque, thanks to the medical gauze. She then applied a cocktail of ACC Copper and Bio-Hydrating Cream to my face.

The latter is rich in hyaluronic acid to combat dehydration.

“Our Bio-Hydrating Cream is a highly effective, lightweight emollient, moisturising and rejuvenating cream. It’s a great allround moisturiser that leaves the skin soft and glowing. Ingredients include Marine Collagen, Elastin

and Seaweed extracts,” commented Williams.

To end off, Williams performed a light pressure point massage using Argan Oil, followed by the application of Bio-Hydrating Cream and the DermaShield SPF45.

For homecare Williams recommended the ACC Copper, Bio-Hydrating Cream and Argan Oil, noting that I should see a marked improvement in the rosacea after a week.

The following morning, after just one night of using the products, I could actually see that my nose looked slightly less red. PB Contact: DermaFix 0861 28 23 23

Professional Beauty July 2015

radiofrequency

44

The heat is on First introduced to the aesthetics sector in 2001, radiofrequency (RF) devices are now widely used by therapists, somatologists and doctors for non-invasive facial rejuvenation and body contouring, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

R

F technology is based on the concept of delivering heat to tissue in a nonspecific manner. Delivery of heat is based on the properties of the tissue itself and is not dependent on chromophores. RF devices produce an electrical current, typically with a frequency in the megahertz (MHz) range. This current can be applied to the skin in various manners, such as through monopolar devices or bipolar devices.* Commenting on the use of RF in aesthetic treatments, Dr Catherine Davies of Hair Restoration SA points out that the area of concern must be treated efficiently using high energy

levels without compromising patient comfort.

“RF heating occurs irrespective of chromophore or skin type and is not dependent upon selective photothermolysis. It has different biological and clinical effects, depending upon the depth of tissue targeted. The high frequency energy causes targeted deep thermal heating in the adipose tissue. Metabolic activity is initiated as cells in the adipose tissue undergo apoptosis. RF can be used for labial rejuvenation and to treat neck sagginess and bra fat/back rolls, among other indications,” says Davies.

Professional Beauty July 2015

“Monopolar RF provides uniform volumetric heating to reach depths up to 2.5cm. It targets specific depths and is flexible, safe and comfortable. Using dynamic monopolar RF, the handpiece moves continuously and specific areas of laxity can be targeted in a relatively short amount of time.

With bipolar, the RF moves between two poles built into the hand piece, with a specific distance between the electrodes.”

Dr Catherine Davies

online at www.probeauty.co.za

radiofrequency

45

Double up Radiant Healthcare offers two RF devices for the local market – the Syneron eTwo Fractional RF device and the Cocoon Titania RF. Says Radiant Healthcare clinical trainer Danelle Landman: “The eTwo combines the unique Sublime and Sublative applications for advanced non-invasive facial and neck rejuvenation. Safe for all skin types, the eTwo system not only enables your clinic to do fractionated skin rejuvenation, but also to offer non-invasive wrinkle treatments.

“The Sublime application uses the elos Technology combination of safe and effective levels of infrared light and bi-polar radio frequency energies to remodel the deep dermal layer of the skin by stimulating new collagen growth for immediate and long-term improvement of wrinkles and facial contours.

The Sublative fractionated bi-polar radio frequency technology places the heat energy effectively into the upper dermis where it can produce a significant increase in both collagen and elastin, with minimal epidermal disruption, leading to a smoother, rejuvenated appearance of the skin. There is an intelligent feedback system on the eTwo that ensures consistency of treatment.” R

Professional Beauty July 2015

FACIAL PULSE TREATMENT

Accuracy and control in facial treatments It is the most accurate radiofrequency treatment in the market, not only allows working in DINAMIC CORPa very RFdefined area thanks to its small diameter of application (such as wrinkles and expression radiofrequency Cellulite reduction –Firming ALL IN 1*allows us to control radiofrequency intensity that it is being transmitted to lines) –but it also It is the most completethe treatment since combines body and the it time that is both beingmultipolar applied. radiofrequency and deep mechanical mobilization. This helps to increase the effects of RF in both fat tissue reduction and in the improvement of cellulite and tighteningwith a single hand-piece.

Facial treatments: Body treatments: > Skin resurfacing. > Minimizes the cellulite appearance. > Expression lines.

INTELLIGENT > Fat and contour reduction. > Facial liffting.

RADIOFREQUENCY > Liquid retention reduction. > Improves skin clarity.

PLATFORM > Tightening. > Double chin reduction. .

This state-of-the-art technology let us make smoother and generalized treatments as Cocoon Titania, from Cocoon Medical notes that the device wellLandman as more aggressive treatments on specific wrinkles, damaging the tissue in order Spain, uses high-powered RF for requires only minimal downtime, to create the cutaneous regeneration and theinwrinkle blurring.

46

advanced facial rejuvenation and body which means that patients can shaping treatments resume normal activities almost immediately due to the fast Perfecttime. treatment for all ages and all skin types treatment Different Cocoon Medical “The device allows clinicsexternal to offer doctors have conducted rigorous clinical studies with proving samples of TITANIA efficiency in terms ofwhat benefits and tangible Titania provides an effective treatment for wrinkles, that thereresults. is an improvement cost-effective treatments with cellulite, skin tightening and body contouring, among other treatments, of at least 20% from the firstwith minimal risk of side effects and we believe is the lowest overall no downtime or expensive consumables. session with the Cocoon cost Specific of ownership, compared to treatment for CELLULITE Landman. competitive products. treats Titania has two specificIthand-pieces forTitania,” cellulite, states allowing us to treat“The bigger areas system has monopolar wrinkles, scars, large pores, stretch (6 poles) or smaller areas (4 poles). These handles are intended, and primarily, to of and different marks,improve laxity, skin tonethey etc.”heat the tissuemultipolar cellulite, of big areasheads very fast, also its poles sizes forSpecially facial treatments, to Cocoon from Cocoon mobilizeTitania, the tissue producing a draining effect. suitable for painful and inflamed cellulite. produce an anti-ageing and Medical in Spain, uses high-powered youthful appearance by skin RF for advanced facial rejuvenation tightening and facial lifting. and body shaping treatments.

“Regarding body “It has been scientifically proven treatments, Cocoon will result BEFORE BEFORE AFTER AFTER in circumference and cellulite Specific TIGHTENING treatment 2 sessions 2 sessions reduction, body firming and TITANIA also includes a special hand-piece for treatments aimed at tissue tightening. contouring, as well tested as the Titania is aglobal smooth alternative toaction surgery, itthe has been clinically onstimulate all skin types to regenerate collagen, Its more warmth and its on dermis let us restore and softening of stretch marks accelerate metabolism, fat to reduction body contouring.

For optimum collagen and fibroblasts reaffirmand the tissue.

Especially indicated forresults breast,it is necessary to have 6 to 8 and scars.” sessions, to abdomen 40 minutes, depending on the patient the size of area being treated. buttocks,each arms20and tightening.

It also improves theand appearance of the stretch Key features and benefits marks and scars. of the system are that it is portable, with an intuitive interface and touch screen.

“Recommended for all *Optional accessory. skin types, it is a painless and non-invasive treatment that promises maximum of Medilase: “The concept of nonresults. It can be used preablative fractional photothermolysis and post-liposuction,” was introduced to the market to concludes Landman. address the need for effective,

Second generation Medilase offers the secondgeneration RF face and body treatments as a Fractional RF module on Viora’s V30 platform.

Says Naomi Olivier

The fractional RF handpiece (V-FR) of Viora’s V30 utilises the patented SVC technology.

Professional Beauty July 2015

yet low-risk, skin rejuvenation techniques. Fractional modalities treat only a fraction of the skin, leaving up to a maximum of 95% of the skin untouched. The undamaged surrounding tissue allows for a reservoir of viable tissue, permitting rapid epidermal repair.

“Clinical outcomes of the first generation of fractional RF were sufficient; the main limitation of these systems however, is the inability to create sufficient coagulation/necrosis without ablating the epidermal layer, or having the ability to ablate the epidermis without coagulation/ necrosis on the upper dermis.”

Viora’s SVC (Switching Vacuum Cooling) technology, available in

online at www.probeauty.co.za

This well to cr

business tips

47 Safe for all skin types, the eTwo system not only enables your clinic to do fractionated skin rejuvenation, but also to offer noninvasive wrinkle treatments.

the V30 Platform, has the ability to create separate biological responses: ablation only, coagulation only or both ablation and coagulation.

“By delivering RF energy via micro pinpoints beneath the skin’s surface, focal heat points are created at the source of symptoms. The healing process of these controlled thermal points leads to the regeneration of new collagen and skin cells,” explains Olivier.

The fractional RF handpiece

(V-FR) of Viora’s V30 utilises the patented SVC technology. The Switching technology is responsible for the ‘Smart Heat’ pulse, which increases skin conductivity prior to the fractional pulse. In addition, the switching mechanism controls RF depth penetration reflected via three programmes: Shallow, Medium and Deep. The vacuum function ensures proper coupling of electrodes to the skin, minimising the risk of epidermal burns, reduces pain levels (per the

Gate Theory) and causes more equal, consistent and symmetrical injury points. The last feature of the SVC technology is the cooling mechanism.

The cooling technology protects the superficial skin layers and reduces pain levels.

Due to its wide spectrum of parameters and unique features, SVC technology can promote different biological responses in three skin layers (epidermis, papillary and reticular dermis). For skin resurfacing procedures, an ablative effect is required. Similar to laser action, a response is achieved by using high energy settings with short pulse durations. For skin rejuvenation, a longer pulse duration is used to deliver a sufficient thermal dose for coagulation, while for a skintightening effect and lifting, only volumetric heating is necessary.

This can be achieved by using a low energy setting and the longest pulse duration available.

Olivier adds: “SVC also gives the R

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radiofrequency

48

With its ergonomic design, the Exilis Elite applicator allows the operator to make changes to the power and cooling right at the display.

therapist unprecedented control in the treatment, so each procedure is personalised per patient, per treatment area, and per specific symptom and need.

“Results can be visible from the first treatment, although each person is different. Typically a three-six session treatment course is sufficient to achieve long-lasting results, depending on the actual application needed, and each patient. One maintenance session is generally recommended every 6 to 12 months, or as required.”

Layering BTL’s Exilis Elite system represents one of the world’s most advanced technologies for body-shaping, skintightening and facial rejuvenation.

“The term ‘layering’ means that energy is delivered to the various depths in the tissue. By adjusting the

cooling temperature during treatment, the operator can treat deep tissue all the way up to the superficial layer.

“With its ergonomic design, the applicator allows the operator to make changes to the power and cooling right at the display. The focused thermal energy disrupts collagen fibres; collagen triple helix structure is affected by heat and the unravelling process is initiated. The natural healing process prompts fibroblasts to produce new collagen fibres,” explains Branislav Sucansky of BTL South Africa.

Latest news from BTL is that a new clinical trial has been conducted on the Vanquish Flex Selective RF applicator, supervised by Klaus Fritz MD. The study has been submitted to Dermatologic Therapy and BTL

Professional Beauty July 2015

is awaiting publication.

“Forty subjects participated in the study and results show an average reduction in thigh circumference of 2.43cm, after four treatments. These results are statistically significant.

No treatment associated pain or discomfort was reported by the subjects. There were also no reports of adverse events,” say the experts at BTL. PB *Source – Joely Kaufman’s article on www.dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.com

online at www.probeauty.co.za

product focus – eyelash serums

49

Lashingout Clients with short, sparse eyelashes are likely to benefit from lash serums that help to promote the growth and length of eyelashes. Usually clear or nearly colourless, the serum is typically applied to the upper lid lashes, just like mascara.

Tasty solution The world’s first and only ECOCERT lash-enhancing serum, LashFood was developed by a team of cosmetic scientists through a series of clinical tests. It comprises Phyto-Medic Complex, a powerful, proprietary blend of organic medicinal herb extracts that supports the growth of stunning lashes.

011 513 4215

Quick draw RapidLash is an innovative eyelash renewal serum that amplifies the appearance of healthy, natural lashes and brows. Key ingredients include Promaxyl, vital proteins and vitamins that condition the hair follicle, improving the appearance of the length, thickness and volume of both the lashes and the brows.

083 415 6055

Road to recovery Priori Lash Recovery Serum helps fight the effects of premature aging, environmental factors and premature eyelash fallout.

This breakthrough lash growth product provides fast results that help transform brittle, short, sparse lashes into fuller, voluptuous, thicker-looking lashes and brows in only a matter of weeks.

011 486 4904

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Revitalising serum A finely calibrated, scientifically driven cosmetic formula developed to address the visual signs of eyelash aging and stress; RevitaLash Advanced features BiopeptinComplex, which combines potent anti-oxidants and fortifying amino acids to create longer, fuller, more beautiful lashes.

082 471 0277

Professional Beauty July 2015

JOHANNESBURG

2015 3 0 T H A N D 3 1 S T AU GUST

Hair, an extension of you All you need to know about styling your business – meet suppliers, manufacturers & distributors at the Professional Hair Expo 2015 For FREE ENTRY visit Venue: Gallagher Convention Center, Johannesburg Date: 30th and 31st August 2015

www.professionalhair.co.za and register today

product focus – peeling aftercare

51

Crowning

glory

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

Au naturel Nyla Naturals offers 100% natural, deeply moisturising, pure and pampering hair care products. These are hand crafted in Johannesburg with the brand’s star indigenous ingredient, Marula oil. The Marula Collection fuses together various natural botanical ingredients to create the most luxurious products.

Silky locks With TanOrganic’s certified OilArganic, hair will be left silky and smooth in no time. This multi-purpose dry oil is made with a unique blend of over eight different plant oils, with a subtle fragrance of roses.

A key ingredient is Borage seed oil, a new wonder oil that combats dry and itchy scalp, while replenishing the hair’s natural oils.

011 285 0039

072 049 7416

Textures for all The La Rashé hair extensions cater to all women’s needs. Products include hair clip in’s, micro bonding extensions and lace wigs.

Hair textures include Russian, Chinese, Brazilian, Indian, Peruvian, Caucasian hair and more. La Rashé hair extensions have a lifetime cycle as they are made from 100% virgin human hair.

084 708 5701

Savvy software uPro Salon Manager is the first professional salon software endorsed by a professional hair product manufacturer. With the support of Icon and Pure Envy Hair Cosmetics and more than 15 years of experience, uPro Salon Manager has produced an easy to use software package for all professional salons.

083 277 5286

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty July 2015

Expand your skills

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nails

53

From both sides of the ‘Nail Curtain’

South Africa’s most prestigious nail competition will take place on Sunday 31 August at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show at Gallagher Convention Centre. Competition director Sonette van Rensburg provides some invaluable tips on how nail techs can excel on the day.

I

’m sure you have all heard the old saying, ‘Competition is healthy!’ And it really is, no matter what it is that you do.

Just think about it, every day of our lives we are competing in some way or another, whether it’s in business against another salon or another nail technician, in our personal lives or against ourselves.

Why do we compete? To strive to better ourselves so that we can be the best at whatever it is that we take on and so that we can stay at the top of our game. We also do it for self-gain and to be rewarded for our efforts. However, it’s not only about being the best and reaping

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the rewards; everything we do in life, whether we succeed or fail, is a lesson.

The best advice I can give to any competing nail tech who wants to achieve a flawless set of nail enhancements is to make sure that they pay attention to perfecting each and every criteria, as they all go towards engineering a perfect set of winning nails. Remember consistency throughout is absolutely key!

What exactly are the judges looking for?

Different types of judging systems are used for various different competitions.

For instance, Nail Art competitions use an open judging system, while

Nail Enhancement competitions use a closed judging system.

Judges are well briefed by the competition director to know exactly what to look out for in detail no matter what category they are judging, and the competitor must meet these criteria in every aspect.

Pre-set criteria guide the judges in scoring points for each and every detail of the technical work that is produced, as well as the points that are allocated by the floor judges for appearance, hygiene, table setup, safety, professionalism and presentation. The scores are then added up to reveal the final result.

Let’s hear what some top nail R

Professional Beauty July 2015

nails

54

Tracey Lee’s success factors essential for the competitor • Itto ishave a passion for their profession.

competitor should have • The a responsible attitude and be

dedicated enough to train prior to the competition.

competitor should know • The and understand their product

inside and out, irrespective of environmental changes.

They should choose a winning combination that works for THEM and stick to it. No changing of products leading up to the competition.

competitor needs to study and understand the rules and • The regulations of the competition. If there are any uncertainties, they

need to contact the competition organisers for clarification prior to the competition to prevent any unexpected surprises. It is entirely the competitor’s responsibility.

experts and professionals in the industry have to say – people who have been on both sides of the ‘Nail Curtain’, as educators, competitors, winners and competition judges.

Yvette Nel, marketing manager for LCN, has been in the industry for many years, as a nail technician, educator and competition judge.

Says Nel: “Taking part in a nail competition should be fun! If you’ve been a nail technician for several years and feel like you have done it all, then this competition is for you. It will motivate you to be even more excellent at what you do. And it gauges your level of expertise against that of other nail professionals.”

Nel’s first bit of advice on how to be competition-ready is to know what is expected on the day. “Attend a competition workshop to inform yourself on all the finer details, like prejudging. This can determine a ranking between first and second place.

“Find a model with good, healthy natural nails, as this will take some pressure off constructing a beautiful nail. Practise on perfecting competition style nails from now until competition day.

“Professionalism is very important, so have your best tools, equipment and attire ready for the competition.

“Precision and consistency is key.

What I want to experience from a judging point of view is for my breath to be taken away!”

Yvette Nel

You need to have the perfect nail station set up on your table; do not clutter it with things that you are not going to need. Have a learning attitude and be relaxed. If you have done your part in terms of preparation, you can only do your best and learn from the experience. Persist, push through and practise your competition nails at least more than once.”

When judging, Nel always looks at the overall picture before examining all the criteria in detail. “Precision and consistency is key. What I want to experience from a judging point of view is for my breath to be taken away – that is absolutely the best part of

Professional Beauty July 2015

being a judge. Seeing excellent work gives me goose bumps.

“I dare you – do something different this year. Enter the competition to be a part of this awesome experience and push yourself to greater heights!”

Skills watch Tracey Lee is an international nail artist and educator from Holland with 12 years in the industry. She has participated in many competitions internationally as a competitor and judge. Lee is a past winner in the Photographic and Tip Box categories of the Professional Beauty Nail Competition.

“Why compete? There are so many advantages to competing besides the obvious one of taking first place,” explains Lee. “Competing gives each and every nail tech the possibility to assess and improve on their professional nail skills. Each score sheet highlights the areas for improvement, and, more importantly, reminds us of what we are already doing well.

“Competing can increase your salon profit. In preparation for, and during, competitions, nail techs are really pushed to the limit to create the ‘perfect set’ of nails in a limited period of time. Again, this is the perfect set,

online at www.probeauty.co.za

nails

55 Should you require any further information about the Professional Beauty Nail Competition, please feel free to contact competition director Sonette van Rensburg on sonettevr@gmail.com or 076 585 4191

For competition rules and regulations, go to www.probeauty.co.za you feel pressured. She should also be flexible, both physically and mentally.

Ideally your model should have ‘wow!’ hands – healthy, even skin, straight fingers and slim, long natural nail beds.

“Always have a back-up model for any unforeseen circumstances. Create a model portfolio to ensure you know which models are available. Your model should have the same winning spirit as you do.”

Coach

not the salon set. However, working against a strict timeline increases the speed of your nail service in the salon, which, in turn, creates additional revenue.”

Lee stresses that competing gives each participant the opportunity to obtain the recognition not often received in the salon. “The recognition may become apparent in the salon when your clients become aware of your activities, thereby creating word of mouth. I love the way that stories develop with clients: their nail tech starts off competing and by the time the story has gone around to three or

online at www.probeauty.co.za

more friends, they have become champions!

“There is also recognition to be obtained within the industry itself, from other nail techs, other competitors and also from other brands.”

Lee points out that taking part in competitions can lead to new contacts. Each competitor is in the same boat when they enter a competition arena. This creates a great atmosphere to network with other competitors (irrespective of brand). New friendships are formed, new contacts are made and there is a natural growth within the industry.

Models Says Lee: “One of the biggest excuses that I have heard is, ‘I can’t find models to train on!” Nonsense, models are everywhere: clients, friends, family, social networks. Ensure that you have trained at least three times on your model leading up to the competition.

Know her nails well.

“Make sure your model is not a highly strung personality, as she is the one that should keep you calm when

Lee believes that finding a suitable coach is essential to your success.

“The perfect coach is not necessarily a world champion, rather it is is someone who understands nails, competitions and judging and can identify areas you need to improve on and show you how to do it. Some of the best competitors are not necessarily the best coaches and vice versa,” comments Lee. She defines a perfect coach as someone with coaching experience, competition experience, a fighting spirit and who has accomplishments, either on their own or through their students.

Lee recommends speaking to the judges post-competition to understand what went well and where the areas for improvement are.

“Take pictures of your work during training and after competitions to see your progress and identify any shortcomings. Be consistent in your work. Focus on your own timing and your own nails. Don’t pay attention to the stage the other competitors are at during the competition. Stick to your schedule and always finish your work,” concludes Lee. PB

Sonette van Rensberg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 25 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191

Professional Beauty July 2015

CONVENTION 2015 Saturday 29 august and Sunday 30 august

the art of the impossible, has just become possible

venue: johannesburg GALLAGHER CONVENTION CENTRE

For more information, visit www.medicalaesthetics.co.za

Medical Aesthetic Convention is part of Professional Beauty

EARN CPD and ETHICS POINTS

medical aesthetics – fillers

57

Static ageing In recent years dermal fillers have become more advanced, with much longer-lasting results, writes Karen Ellithorne.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

T

he newer fillers on the market all have their own unique attributes that work in specific ways to rejuvenate and plump specific areas of the face, with the most common ingredient being hyaluronic acid (HA).

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide that is present in most human tissues, namely the skin, bone, cartilage, synovial fluid, eyes, muscles etc. In the skin it is generally found on the extracellular matrix and is responsible for the maintenance of the structure and plumpness of the skin. It is also responsible for the transport of water

and nutrients in the skin, and helps to attract nutrients. Hyaluronic acid is a skin protector and also a strong antioxidant. As we age, the levels of hyaluronic acid slowly decline, leading to loss of moisture and breakdown of collagen and elastin fibres.

“The current fillers on the market consist of a carrier gel combined with HA that mimics the body’s action of collecting moisture in between the cells. This action plumps the skin, which then appears younger and healthier, and the appearance of wrinkles is reduced,” says Dr Gerhard van Niekerk, an experienced aesthetic doctor and trainer at Eternal Youth, R

Professional Beauty July 2015

medical aesthetics – fillers

58 with practices in Somerset West and Knysna.

Jacky Shaw, practice manager at Lambton Medical and Aesthetic Centre, says that dermal fillers have changed in their composition and application over the decades.

“Fillers were first introduced in the late 1980s using a fat transplant method purely to correct facial defects. Once results were seen, scientists began formulating a suitable substance to reverse the signs of ageing. The first FDA-approved filler was made of bovine collagen. Unfortunately, it was not cost-effective nor easy to inject.

“Finally in 2003 the first FDAapproved hyaloronic acid dermal filler was launched into the aesthetic market. The benefits of this ‘new’ HA technology were its ease of use, longevity compared to bovine collagen, and, importantly, the low incidence of adverse side effects, such as allergic reactions etc. Most of today’s fillers also contain Lidocaine for minimal pain or discomfort,” says Shaw.

What areas can be treated with dermal fillers?

Patients generally suffer from three main ageing concerns in the facial area,” continues Shaw. “Firstly, they get the formation of lines or wrinkles.

Secondly, the good fat that serves as the scaffolding below the skin starts to deplete and descend, resulting in a loss of volume. Lastly, due to environmental factors and the intrinsic ageing process, we also lose elasticity in the skin, forming a crêpe-like texture called elastosis.

“When a patient presents with lines or wrinkles on the face it is important to distinguish between static and dynamic lines, because the modality of treatment differs for the two types of lines. Dynamic lines are formed by muscle movement below the skin that forms a wrinkle from that constant contraction of the muscle ie. smiling, frowning etc. These dynamic lines are generally treated by muscle-relaxing injections as they respond well to this treatment. If, for instance, a wrinkle or furrow does not smooth out after about three or four sessions of injection, then the doctor may resort to fillers to smooth the wrinkle further.

What are the typical areas treated with fillers and where have you seen the best results?

“

Dr Gerhard van Niekerk, aesthetic doctor and trainer at Eternal Youth

If one follows a holistic approach to the face, starting at the forehead and moving down to the décolleté, every area will be able to be treated if you work with a comprehensive range of fillers. The typical areas include forehead and frown lines, crow’s feet, sleep lines on the cheeks, nasolabial, marionette and mental creases. Neck and décolleté wrinkles can be treated on a superficial plane, whereas volume loss on the forehead, temples, cheeks, infra-orbital, nasolabial, marionette, chin and jawline can be treated on medium and deep planes.

Dr Anton Potgieter, a Sandton-based plastic and reconstructive surgeon Good results can be expected with all filler treatments if the area is correctly treated and if the patient is a good candidate for the treatment.

Cheeks are probably the area of the face that require the greatest insight to treat and surprise the patient if done well.

“Static lines, however, are formed by gravity and volume loss, and are ideally treated by dermal fillers. The type or viscosity of the filler will then be matched to fill the depth or extent of the line,” says Shaw.

What can I expect before, after and during the procedure?

Shaw would advise all patients to have a thorough consultation before the procedure in order to feel more

Professional Beauty July 2015

Jacky Shaw, practice manager at Lambton Medical and Aesthetic Centre The most dramatic results are experienced in the mouth/lip area.

Dramatic does not mean the dreaded ‘trout pout’.

Clients can walk in with dehydrated, shrunken lips surrounded by barcodes (smoker’s lines) and walk out in 30 minutes with beautiful smooth, soft and rejuvenated lips.

Hollywood has given lip fillers such a bad reputation by overfilling or applying incorrect injection techniques in the lip area. I would advise that clients only go to an advanced injector for lips.

”

comfortable and to know what to expect.

Says Shaw: “It is of the utmost importance that the client understand the realistic outcomes that can be achieved with the procedure to avoid disappointment due to unrealistic expectations. Disappointed clients are lost clients. During this consultation the patient should be asked what area is of most concern to them. This should be addressed first and thereafter you

online at www.probeauty.co.za

medical aesthetics – fillers

59

can discuss other areas that could do with improvement. I generally form a priority list in the form of a treatment plan. All possible risks, such as tenderness and possible bruising, should be explained, as well as factors that influence the longevity of the product, such as smoking, sun damage, excessive exercise etc. Slow and steady is a good ethos to follow, as it builds client confidence and allows for budgeting.

“As the filler reaches its full effect, very often the list of priorities alters due to changes in the face following each procedure. It is also a good idea to wait out the filler maturation time of two weeks to see the final result, as fillers attract moisture to the area and expand by a further +/-20%.”

After the consultation Shaw will book a 45-minute session for the procedure to ensure a relaxed environment. Before and after photos are taken for the client’s benefit as results are more visible when photos are compared.

Shaw finds it very satisfying to plot her client’s aesthetic journey via photos.

“The filler is injected slowly, and in some areas the sensation is more of a feeling of pressure rather than pain. We perform dental blocks when doing extensive procedures around the mouth, as this area is very sensitive. Massaging is done after the injection just to ensure that the filler is evenly distributed. Our follow-up appointment

online at www.probeauty.co.za

is booked for two weeks post-procedure.

“After the procedure the client is asked not to manipulate the area or have any facial treatments for two weeks until our follow-up.

On the day of the procedure the client should not do any extreme exercise or heat treatments such as sauna. Clients are advised to treat their fillers well to achieve longer-lasting results, such as daily sun care and a good skin care regime. Any pain, inflamation or bruising normally settles within a day or two, and most of our clients go straight back to work following their procedure,” concludes Shaw.

With many dodgy imports on the market what should a doctor look out for when purchasing fillers for their practice?

Van Niekerk says that all products that are sold commercially for aesthetic use in South Africa should be registered with the MCCSA (Medicine Control Council of South Africa). However he strongly advises sticking with brands that have FDA approval and CE certification to ensure that the product has a high level of manufacturing using pure and safe compounds. This way the product will also have proven clinical studies and safety profiles. PB

With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years. Email: karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

Professional Beauty July 2015

product news

60

In the market Our round-up of newly launched products and devices.

Sixth sense

r

The Sixth Intelligence from Six Sensational Skincare finds the fault in your client’s skin and fixes it. Ingredients include the trademarked Venuceane, a super antioxidant which provides protection to the skin. Macadamia seed oil repairs, softens and conditions the skin, while preventing trans-epidermal water loss.

Redness relief 3D skincare

r

The HydraFirm Stem Cell 3D Serum from Dermaquest boasts remarkable concentrations of Gardenia, Echinacea, Lilac and Orange Stem Cells to soften fine lines and wrinkles, while improving skin tone and restoring elasticity to overworked skin. Four powerful peptides and Hyaluronic Acid work to replenish and hydrate.

011 325 5849

Pigment attack

r

011 312 7840

QMS Medicosmetics new Repair 3 Complex has been specifically formulated to reduce redness and relieve irritation in the skin.

Its lightweight cream-serum texture is ideal for even the most sensitive skins and easily absorbs into the skin without leaving an oily residue. The result is a visibly relaxed, calmed complexion.

0860 018 022

r

Mela Peel and Mela Cream comprise Dermaceutic’s new treatment plan for hyperpigmentation. This treatment has been designed to target the pigmentation in the epidermis triggered by hormones, free radical damage generated through sun exposure and certain medications.

011 706 2518

Professional Beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

The perfect system for professional eyelash and eyebrow tinting

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product news

62 African mud Renowned for its exceptional skin firming properties, the Kigelia Africana Extract is extracted from the fruit of the indigenous African Sausage Tree. An integral component of Kalahari’s new professional Phyto Compounding Treatment, the natural African mud infused with Kigelia extract will visibly smooth and firm the skin, leaving it radiant.

011 656 1122

Neck & neck r It’s a gas!

The new Carbtek Carboxytherapy Advanced device from Brazil is CE medically approved.

Carboxytherapy is the unique therapy of injecting carbon dioxide gas (CO2) under the skin to aid wound healing and tissue regeneration. The system is suitable for treating wrinkles, scars, acne scars, stretch marks and under eye circles.

011 545 9300

011 794 8253

r

NeoStrata’s Triple Firming Neck Cream helps rebuild the skin’s matrix. It is formulated with a powerful blend of NeoStrata proprietary and other selectively sourced ingredients. Clinically proven NeoGlucosamine helps increase Hyaluronic Acid and evens pigment, while NeoCitriate targets new collagen to lift and firm.

Eye contour repair r

Sun smart

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Babor has just launched its new Anti-Aging Sun Care range, which not only contains effective UV filters, but also a powerful anti-aging complex that protects cellular DNA and contains the potent radical quenchers, Vitamin E and Vitamin C, encapsulated in an intelligent spherical carrier.

011 467 0110

Anesi’s Radiance Contour Serum is a global care eye contour serum formulated with vitamin PP, caffeine, Carnitine and Ruscus to improve the vascular system and promote the degradation of fatty tissue, minimising dark circles and bags. It is enriched with Hyaluronic Acid to smooth the skin and fill wrinkles from within.

011 791 4027

Professional Beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Brenda Mzila Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: classifieds@probeauty.co.za

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THIS VALUABLE SPACE IS AVAILABLE for advertising your Beauty products and services.

To find out more call BRENDA on 011 781-5970

PMU Conference

28 & 29 Aug

Start your OWN Nail Guru Franchise in 2015!

Includes Salon, Training Centre & Supply Shop

Area specific Contact Chantelle Prince for more info chantelle@thenailguru.co.za

031 564 2933 info@thenailguru.co.za 27e54fe4 The Nail Guru

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To advertise your PRODUCTS, SERVICES AND SUPPLIES in this space, call Brenda Mzila on 011 781 5970

saahsp

64

Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

SA hosts global beauty congress It was with great pride and passion for local beauty industry players that this year’s Cidesco World Congress and Exhibition was hosted in South Africa from 20 to 25 May.

Sandy Fuhr and Anna-Cari Gund

C

idesco is the World Standard for Beauty & Spa Therapy. The Cidesco World Congress has been taking place on an annual basis for the past 62 years.

During her opening address at the 2015 congress, founding SAAHSP member and past president and honorary member of CIDESCO, Helene Bramwell, spoke about the main driving force behind organising an event of this nature: “My wish was to create a platform for beauty professionals from all over the world to unite and realise our true professional value, and reap the benefit of the knowledge being shared and the techniques being demonstrated. The more knowledgeable we are, the more we are able to meet the changing needs of our clients.”

Renowned doctors and key beauty experts, both locally and abroad, were

invited to provide their valuable insight on beauty-related topics, as well as medical aesthetic disciplines, so as to expand the beauty professionals’ knowledge within and outside of their current scope of practice. Exhibitors got to showcase the latest beauty technologies, services, techniques and treatments to beauty industry decision makers in South Africa, in a forum dedicated to educational excellence.

US-based Johnette du Randt discussed the effects and benefits of massage for cancer patients; Dr Bovero from Italy focused on touch therapy and its effects, Professor Dong Ping from China looked at Periosteal Micro Plastic Surgery – a non-invasive bone-shaping technique; and Anouska Cassano from the UK covered scalp micropigmentation.

Top speakers

Well-pleased

The programme was exceptionally well received. From South Africa some of the key speakers included: Dr Ridwan Mia, known for his pioneering work on three-year-old ‘Pippie’ Kruger, spoke about harvesting skin; Dr Robert Weiss focused on hormones and how they affect the skin; Dr Cathy Davies gave an in-depth look at radiofrequency and ultrasound technologies; Dr Minoka Nadesan demonstrated and discussed the popular Vampire facial; and Podiatrist, Dr Dennis Rehbock, looked at how to treat clients with diabetes.

On the international front, the congress was privileged to have secured the following expert speakers:

Professional Beauty July 2015

Anna-Cari Gund, President of Cidesco, was well-pleased with the overall success of the event.

“The Cidesco International Board saw South Africa as the ideal platform to host the Cidesco World Congress and Exhibition not only because it is one of the strongest members with over 30 accredited Cidesco schools nationwide, but also because the future of the beauty and spa industry in Africa is huge. As such, there is demand from industry to make sure the quality is there for the therapist. This is where Cidesco comes in, to upgrade the therapist to become the best in the world,” said Gund. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

A moisturiser like no other...

The new Environ Super Moisturiser+ is a luxurious moisturising cream scientifically formulated to be easily absorbed, and to enhance the retention of moisture naturally found in the skin, leaving it looking smoother and feeling refreshed and softer to the touch.

Super Moisturiser+ is a unique Environ “cocktail” of scientifically researched ingredients, such as Revidrate™, Pentavitin® and Pro-Vitamin B5, which have been proven to enhance natural moisturising factors, as well as protect and retain skin moisture.

Apart from providing skin with intensive and lasting hydration, our unique “cocktail” also contains

effective antioxidants and vitamins C and E which shield and protect the skin from the damaging effects of the modern environment, thereby enhancing the skin’s brightness and radiance.

Super Moisturiser+ is suitable for all skin types, especially dry and sensitive skin that reacts to environmental extremes.

It is also ideal for those who are exposed daily to dry air, or frequently travel by plane.

It can be used together with other Environ creams containing vitamin A or as an alternative moisturiser if experiencing dryness or transient sensitivity to the Environ vitamin A products.

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