Pro beauty july 2016 by Professional Beauty SA

July 2016

www.probeauty.co.za

Juggling act Turn up the heat Beneficial spa treatments

Count the cost

How to manage your business

Pea in the pod Treating pregnant clients

Pricing tips

Guidinglight Latest laser, IPL & RF technologies

In this issue... Regulars

Spa Focus

Features

11 Industry news

30 The Spa at ‘Mouse House’

39 Time out

Local and international news

A picture perfect spa

Cupping in massage

51 Hair news

32 Feel the heat

40 Expectant expectations

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

61 Product news

All the latest launches

64 SAAHSP

The latest news from SAAHSP

Business 18 Ask the Experts

All your questions answered

Spa heat treatments

Medical Aesthetics 58 Most popular treatments for African skin

A doctor’s perspective

42 The sea smarts

Nails

Competition preparation

Products with marine ingredients

44 Alternative energy

53 The competitive spirit

Pregnancy treatments and products

Latest in energy-based technologies

49 That extra element

Focus on nutritional supplements

21 Insider

Tracking the industry with stats

22 When the price is right

Setting up a pricing structure

25 Round and round on the hamster wheel

How to streamline your management process

26 Building up trust with your clients

Human interaction in the salon

Welcome

t’s quite common these days to find lasers, IPL (intense pulsed light) and radiofrequency devices in beauty salons and even some spas. Previously the domain of medical aesthetics clinics only, these devices are potentially huge money spinners as they can be used for a variety of applications, such as antiageing face and neck treatments, hair removal, and cellulite/body contouring, among others. Because such devices are so costly, it’s important for spa, salon and medical aesthetics clinics to do background research to select appropriate machines and source them from reputable suppliers, who provide essential training to ensure that treatments are not only effective but perfectly safe for the patient. This issue of Professional Beauty provides you with loads of information about the latest technologies available, and also covers a relatively new application – that of vaginal rejuvenation. On the business side, we focus on vital issues such as building up trust with your clients, management tips for the daily running of your spa or salon, and pricing your treatments. Setting up a pricing structure that will be acceptable to your clients, while still yielding the required turnover for your business is no easy matter. As our article points out, one of the first things you need to do is decide what kind of business you are, in terms of what kind of target market you wish to attract. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

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Professional Beauty July 2016

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strengthen your

BEAUTY ESSENTIAL SKIN CARE

Introducing the new

Pharma Supplements Range from Environ Life can “get under your skin” – the stress of city living, the eff ects of the environment all have an impact on skin. The way we live shows in our skin. So it’s not surprising that there’s a growing movement to look after mind, body and soul, which results in an overall feeling of well-being. Wellness is a growing global mega-trend, fuelled by consumers who want to live a good life, reach their full potential and look and feel healthy for as long as possible. Consumers around the globe believe that wellness is going to become more important in the future, and are realising that what they put in shows. The new Pharma Supplements Range from Environ assists in feeding skin’s health and resilience from the inside out with a balanced combination of vitamins, nutrients and antioxidants, helping to strengthen skin from within and keep it looking healthier and more beautiful. Strengthen Skin. Strengthen Beauty. With the new Pharma Supplements Range.

www.environskincare.com

EnvironSkinCare

@Environ_Global

sponsored editorial

Q&A with Dr Des World renowned aesthetic surgeon and founder of Environ Professional Skin Care, Dr Des Fernandes, answers your questions about Vitamin A. QUESTION: Vitamin A has suddenly become the ‘go to’ ingredient for skincare, despite the fact that it has been endorsed by Environ for 25 years. Why is Vitamin A so good for the skin? DR DES: Vitamin A controls virtually all the major features of the skin, as well as controlling the normal growth in the thickness of the skin. It keeps the skin colour normal, with the normal distribution of pigment. In addition, Vitamin A promotes the formation of collagen and elastin and prevents their destruction. It also promotes the hydration of the skin, which is paradoxical because in the beginning, while skin adjusts to normal levels, it seems to dry the skin. Vitamin A has a major part in controlling the sebaceous output of the skin and thereby minimises acne. When skin is rich in vitamin A, the possibility of a skin cancer is significantly reduced.

QUESTION: How does Environ’s use of Vitamin A in its formulations differ from other skincare brands? DR DES: I think the most important feature of Environ’s formulation of Vitamin A is that we have a STEP UP SYSTEM™ so that we can eventually achieve the highest levels of Vitamin A that are permitted in a cosmetic. This is a journey to healthy skin for a lifetime.

QUESTION: What should I look out for when purchasing a skincare product containing Vitamin A? DR DES: When you purchase a Vitamin A cream make sure that it is rich in antioxidants, particularly vitamins A, C and E. Carotenoid’s like beta carotene, lutein, lycopene etc. fight free radicals which are possible aggravators and lead to the signs of ageing and photo damage. You’ll know that you are using a range that is striving for the best if you find that there are lesser – and more active versions – of the cream. Always start with the least active and work your way up to the most active; ‘start low and go slow’. PB

Dr Des Fernandes is a world renowned aesthetic surgeon and founder of Environ Professional Skin Care which is found in more than 70 countries world wide. He was a pioneer in the use of vitamin A in skin care formulations. If you would like to pose a question to Dr Des Fernandes, please email the editor on joanna@probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty July 2016

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TWINCARE

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

With Over

Soak Off Gel COLOURS

That WOW!

industry news

News All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

Guinot expert visits SA

Debbie Nel and Céline Lebreuil

Céline Lebreuil, international trainer for French skincare brand Guinot, visited South Africa in May for Twincare International’s launch of the Guinot Hydraderm Cellular Energy device.

hile introducing the device to Gauteng salons at a Twincare event held on 16 May at Summer Place in Johannesburg, Lebreuil emphasised that the Hydraderm device is a ‘true alternative’ to aesthetic medicine.

“With Hydraderm, the therapist is able to stimulate the cellular energy of the skin and offer immediate results. The treatment is painless and rejuvenates the skin and facial features by increasing biological activity and stimulating facial muscles,” explained Lebreuil.

DermaFix turns 10 Dave and Rosalie Neto and Ursula Hunt

On 23 July, South African cosmeceutical skincare brand, DermaFix, which is owned by Spa Professionals cc, will celebrate its 10th birthday. “We are having celebratory birthday events in Johannesburg from 19 July onwards and then in Cape Town on 27 July. New products will be launched at the events and stockist specials offered as well,” says Ursula Hunt (formerly Volbrecht), one of the three founders of Spa Professionals cc, along with Rosalie Neto and Dave Neto. She notes that Spa Professionals cc was established in 2004, followed by the launch of the DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care product range in 2006.

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“We source laboratories across the world to supply effective solutions and updated formulations for superior skincare results,” continues Hunt. “Our formulations include stem cell technology, liposome-encapsulated peptides, telomere protection, Vitamin A propionate and advanced natural phytonutrients and botanicals. “DermaFix is now distributed in Namibia, Nigeria and Zimbabwe, with an online distribution in the United Kingdom.” The growth of the DermaFix product range led to the decision to open a Cape Town Distribution centre in 2014. Spa Professionals cc currently employs 10 staff members.

The Hydraderm device has three functions, namely thermal energy, dynamic ionisation and lifting stimulation. Debbie Nel, Twincare’s education manager for Guinot, performed a Hydraderm facial during Lebreuil’s presentation.

News in pictures

Lori Leib, creative director for Bodyography Professional Cosmetics, recently visited South African distributor Imbalie Beauty to launch new products including Lip Wardrobe, which comprises four Mini Electric Lip slides, and the Ready Set Go Setting Spray. Pictured are Leib (centre) with Imbalie Beauty’s Ryno Mulder and Debbie Wolfendale.

Professional Beauty July 2016

industry news

Mammoth milestone for Matis The Matis head office in Paris

On 15 August French skincare brand Matis will celebrate 80 years of existence.

n honour of this milestone, Matis distributor, Twincare International, will host an 80th Birthday Breakfast for its Matis clients on 15 August at its head office in Johannesburg. The event will be used as a platform to launch two new products. Matis was founded in Paris in 1936 through the creation of a formulation laboratory by Doctor Mavromati, a chemist in cosmetology. Says Kirsty Hendry, Twincare International’s Matis product manager for South Africa: “Matis is a pioneer in professional beauty treatments. Its products, methods and treatment techniques have made the brand a true reference in the professional world of beauty salons.” She notes that Matis has an R&D and development department situated in Paris. “Matis draws inspiration from the latest scientific advances in medicine, molecular biology, cell biology, skin biology and biometrology in order to create unique, bespoke treatments. The company has developed more than 180 active formulas.” The brand is present in over 70 countries worldwide.

■ Epi-max revamps packaging: A stylised water droplet now appears on the packaging of the Epimax range, pointing to the brand’s moisturising and hydrating characteristics. A South African product, Epi-max is marketed by Genop Healthcare. ■ New proposition in skincare: Developed by leading UK scientists, the Skinade drink contains marine collagen and essential ‘beautyceuticals’ to trigger the body’s own collagen production, by firing up the fibroblasts in the skin and increasing the body’s production of hyaluronic acid for maximum hydration. ■ Beauty devices on the rise: The beauty devices market in Europe grew at a double-digit rate in 2015, helped by apps that educate consumers on correct usage. A Kline report found that ‘ultra-specialised’ and hair regrowth devices drove growth by 18%. ■ Health foods to impact beauty formulations: The beauty industry can expect fruit, vegetable and superfood ingredients made popular by the trend for juicing, to increasingly appear in the formulations of skin and body care, according to a new report by Canadean.

Radiant expands premises In a sure sign of growth during tough economic times, the management of Radiant Healthcare, a distributor of medical aesthetics devices, recently decided to extend their premises in Randpark Ridge, Johannesburg. Thanks to the renovations, the company’s sales and training teams are now accommodated within the premises.

Professional Beauty July 2016

News in brief

■ Fragrance sector impacted by natural beauty products: Consumer demand for natural beauty products has caused unprecedented growth in the fragrances sector, according to new research by The Freedonia Group. Global demand for flavours and fragrances relating to blends, essential oils and aroma chemicals, is set to rise by 4.4% per annum to $26.5bn (£18.3bn) in 2016.

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industry news

Spa Consultants announces top stockists

ome 200 guests attended The Spa Consultants Annual Awards Gala Dinner, held on 14 May at The Venue in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg. Says Marisa Dimitriadis, CEO of The Spa Consultants: “We had more than double the number of guests from last year. The evening was a huge success, as seen all over social media for weeks after the event. I feel that this event is becoming the annual party to attend and have a 100% rebooking rate.” The winners of the 2016 Spa Consultants Awards are: Top SA Salon – Sole Salon & Spa; Top SA Spa – Mount Grace Country House & Spa; Most Improved Retail Therapist – Katie Botha; Most Improved Retail Therapist – Kgomotso Gaile Serote; Professionalism – Sole Salon & Spa; Professionalism – Touch Spa @ Seasons: Professionalism – Irene Country Lodge – Camdeboo Day Spa; Up & Coming – The Nail Factor – Pavilion; Up & Coming – Lash & Brow Bar; Up & Coming – Ikhutsa Spa;

Business Excellence - Copperleaf

Business Excellence – Copperleaf Spa & Gym; Business Excellence – Champagne Skin Care; Top Business Consultant – Tanya van der Walt; Very Close Runner Up Business Consultant – Stephanie Harris; Top Spalicious Therapist – Maggie Xaba; and Top Six Sensational Skincare Therapist – Six winner – Annita Maharaj Annita Gunpath.

Artistic’s ‘Huntsman’ sells out Twincare International, recently appointed as the South African distributor for cult nail brand, Artistic Nail Design, reports that all units of the brand’s The Huntsman Winter’s War Collection sold out at a launch held in Johannesburg in mid-May.

Says Twincare retail manager Lindzey Turton: “Our clients are raving about the collection – they say their customers absolutely love it. This collection is a collaboration with the major motion picture of the same name.”

New partnership for Salon Specifics Salon Specifics has announced a partnership with DCC Industries in the form of Izette Maschke and Marliza le Roux. Says Brenda Stanfield, product manager for Salon Specifics: “Izette and Marliza’s combined experience of 25 years in the practice of depilation will have a significant impact on our business. We believe they will significantly expand the footprint of Salon Specifics in Gauteng and the local market as a whole.”

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Turton notes that Artistic Nail Design is a cult brand headed by world chamption nail artist and pulished author, Alisha Rimando Botero, and prides itself on consistently developing innovative products that encourage nail artists to push the boundaries of creativity.

News in pictures

Izette Maschke

Marliza le Roux

Amber Gudas, clinical training manager for Zeltiq’s Coolsculpting fat freezing device, visited Laserderm in Johannesburg recently to launch the CoolMini applicator, which is FDA-approved to treat double chins. Pictured are Gudas and Laserderm’s office manager, Mazanne van Staden.

Professional Beauty July 2016

industry news

Beauty Therapy Institute turns 20 The Beauty Therapy Institute celebrated its 20th birthday on 1 June this year.

ays the school’s founder, Sandy Roy Fuhr: “It feels amazing to have reached this milestone, as if a miracle and dream has come true. To be in a position to give someone a future is like giving a life. “My lifetime dream has been to give others the same opportunities I have had, alongside taking South African educational standards to Africa.” The first Beauty Therapy Institute campus opened in 1996 in Rondebosch, Cape Town, followed by a campus in Randburg, Johannesburg. Other campuses include Woodstock (Cape Town), Somerset West (Western Cape), Rivonia (Johannesburg), Secunda (Mpumalanga), Bloemfontein (Free State), Walvis Bay and Windhoek in Namibia, and Lagos in Nigeria. Commenting on the school’s enduring success, Fuhr says: “It’s due to a total dedication to maintaining a continuously high standard of education and ensuring our learners

extremely high in leave us well trained and skilled, South Africa, which with a career potential ahead of started the trend them. of ensuring that “We have a unique system local therapists of modular training whereby a become the best candidate can choose one or trained therapists many modules to study, in their worldwide. Spas own time, at their own pace. in those days were Small classes ensure dedicated non-existent and attention from our highly qualified Sandy Fuhr neither was there a and experienced educators. We market for medical also guarantee interviews within aesthetics, which is hugely popular the Sorbet group of salons.” nowadays.” Fuhr notes that when she started The Beauty Therapy Institute is The Beauty Therapy Institute 20 years internationally registered and its ago, the beauty industry was fledgling. thousands of graduates employed all “However, the health and skincare around the world. training standards were already

Cellular 3 takes off The Johannesburg launch of Anesi Lab Institute Cellular 3, held at The Fairway Hotel & Spa on 23 May, proved so successful that the Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS) team sold all of its Anesi products on display. Says EBS Skin Division brand manager, Yolandi Mestre: “We are very pleased with the way the launch went and so proud of the Anesi brand. All products, both retail and professional, sold out on the spot and we have many back orders awaiting our next shipment. Clients attending the launch immediately started with Cellular 3 facials the following morning.” Two Spanish executives from Anesi holding company, DRV-Phytolab,

Pearl Mpateni, Melissa Windsor, Yolandi Mestre, Dalize Havenga, Patricia Jurado and Esther Mendez

namely Esther Mendez and Patricia Jurado, were on hand to introduce Anesi Lab Institute Cellular 3, an

Professional Beauty July 2016

anti-ageing treatment that targets oxidative stress, glycation and DNA damage.

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business tips

Ask the experts Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m thinking of opening a skin clinic and considering joining a franchise. What are the perks of joining a franchise and what can I expect from a franchisor?

hether you are a seasoned business owner or a first-time novice in the business world, there are numerous benefits to choosing a beauty franchise over an independent salon/clinic. Someone who is familiar with the business world can find the beauty industry itself tricky to conquer. Keeping abreast with trends, developments and growing laws can be quite demanding and time-consuming, leaving little time to focus on the business and the challenges with getting it off the ground. First-time business owners might find it daunting to try and wrap their head around the administration and paperwork, whilst trying to get their business going. Whichever side of the spectrum you fall in, a beauty franchise will be your saving grace from all these challenges. A structured and well-managed franchise has done all the hard work

of putting together a business model that is designed to generate an income and is usually tried and tested. The other obvious advantage is that a franchise already has a reputed name, which an independent business can take years to develop. Customers are already familiar with the brand ethos and often find it less intimidating to try a new franchise store out rather than a new independent business. This becomes especially relevant when you are looking at specialised treatments, such as laser and non-invasive aesthetic treatments. Clients trust a franchise that is reputable, knowing that these treatments will be done according to best practice methods and knowing that they have recourse, should they be unhappy. The other major pro for a franchise is the power in numbers, as a franchise is able to negotiate better rates and incentives with suppliers. When you are starting a business, having someone negotiate the best deals for

you can save you thousands in startup costs as well as thousands every month going forward. These savings generally cover your royalty fees. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to note that your royalty fees cover many overheads that a business would have to incur. When you are looking for a franchise to join, make sure you do your research. Your franchisor should be able to provide you with support over and above a successfully proven business model. They should have their facts and figures available, as well as a proven track record of successful franchisees that you can speak to.

Tzvia Hermann is founder and owner of The Laser Beautique franchise and a Dectro International Distributor of Electrolysis Technology. Email management@ thelaserbeautique.co.za

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

A DATE FOR YOUR AUGUST DIARY Exclusively for your beauty, hair and spa business The must attend event for your profession

JOHANNESBURG

28 & 29 AUGUST 2016

business trends

Insider

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in May 2016.

The month in numbers Insider Spa

Spas had a reasonable May this year compared to May 2015, with the majority reporting an increase in treatment business, albeit a small increase in some cases. Some spas noted that midweek business grew, thanks to midweek specials and marketing. Other spas managed to upsell on treatments, while others cited a treatment price increase as contributing positively to revenue. One spa group implemented a new commission structure that proved successful. A spa that experienced a decrease in treatment business found that guests were only interested in once-off treatments and not prepared to book for second and third treatments. Retail business was better for more than half of spas polled, due to in-house training and bonus incentives. One spa found that retail business improved as they had a greater variety of stock available. Nearly all of you have not taken on a new brand in the last year or year and a half, proving that your current brands are doing well. We asked you what incentives AVERAGE TREATMENT you offer to staff and most spas ROOM offer money or bonus incentives, OCCUPANCY trade-exchange vouchers with other spas or restaurants, time off, or products. One spa group cited motivation and coaching, with positive feedback, as the best incentive.

% BETTER

% SAME

35 % WORSE

52%

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MAY 2016 COMPARE WITH MAY 2015?

% BETTER

% SAME

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MAY 2016 COMPARE WITH MAY 2015?

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% WORSE

Insider Salon

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

As has been the case all year, salons continue to feel the recessionary pinch, with the majority reporting a downturn in treatment business, as compared to the same time last year. The main reason cited is the poor economy. One salon reported that clients are coming in less frequently, while many others have moved away. Another salon added that the cold weather, as well as the political climate, impacted negatively on business. In terms of retail business, salons are finding that clients are buying products that are less expensive than their usual spend. Like spas, most salons have not taken on new brands recently and are happy with the brands they currently have. Salons polled believe that the best staff incentive is commission or money. PB

55%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MAY 2016 COMPARE WITH MAY 2015?

% BETTER

% SAME

% WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MAY 2016 COMPARE WITH MAY 2015?

% BETTER

% SAME

% WORSE

Professional Beauty July 2016

business tips

When the price is right Pricing is the core determinator of the success of a spa or salon. The cost of treatments and products will ultimately determine your profit and how well your business will do, writes Debbie Merdjan.

ettling on a pricing structure can be tricky. You need to offer value for money, be competitive, have the right image, and, most importantly, make money. So how does a business set prices? Firstly, decide what kind of business you are. High-end? If yes, the service you offer and the prices you charge need to be high-end, too. Customers will have high expectations of high prices and a high standard of service. If you are a low-end salon or spa, you need to understand what your market wants, sell accordingly, be affordable, offer loyalty points, and remember that customers’ expectations must still be met. Your customers have expectations and perceptions. Women, for example, will spend good money on anti-ageing products. They will pay more if they think the treatment is going to work well. Women are smart, so be smart too.

Be careful of being too expensive, but also, of being too inexpensive! Both have their disadvantages. You need to take a look at the competition and decide if you want to price yourselves higher, lower or in a similar range. Do comparisons. See what value you can offer that your competitors do not. Bear in mind that they will compete with you, too. So you need to constantly change your game.

Strategies Here are a few strategies that will help determine your prices: • Value: look at your costs to work out pricing. But remember – if customers value your product more than that of your competitors, they may pay more. • Perception: low prices do not always mean business. Sometimes a low price can put a customer off by creating doubt about the value. • Trends: customers will pay more for new technologies, perceiving them to work better than old ones.

Discounting Remember that it is easier to lower prices than to raise them. You can do this by discounting – an easy way to

Professional Beauty July 2016

attract demand. However, discounts are only a short-term solution as they, too, can have a negative impact on the customer’s value perception. Often a customer looking for a discount is not a returning customer. So check out your market and don’t discount for too long. And perhaps a loyalty card may be a better idea than a discount? Or both, but offered at different times. Get creative too. You can maximise revenue during peak periods and deviate demand to offpeak periods. Incentivise customers with lower priced treatments midweek. Offer something special on your quieter days and create a demand. As Jack Welch of General Electric said: “Costs are a matter of fact but pricing is a matter of guts.” Be clever. Be dynamic with your pricing. And never become complacent. PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

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put back what

CITY LIFE

takes out

Too much noise, too much traffic, too many people, life going too fast. When youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re stressed, your skin gets irritated. Environ combines the vitamin A your skin needs every day with other essential nutrients like antioxidants and peptides to help protect and nourish your skin, keeping it looking and feeling beautiful and resilient. This is your skin reborn beautiful.

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EnvironSkinCare

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business tips

Round and round on

the hamster wheel

Ayesha Rajah provides some valuable tips to help streamline the processes involved in managing a spa or salon business.

‘B

urn-out’, ‘no time for marketing’, ‘too many things to get done in a day’ are phrases synonymous with simultaneously owning, managing and conducting treatments in your salon or spa. If you’re in this position it often requires constant juggling between the demands of your clients, staff, accountants, suppliers and marketing team, and let’s not forget the therapy side as well. It’s like a never-ending cycle. My first piece of advice is to delegate. This word can send most of us running for the hills as letting go is never easy, but is essential to get tasks done with which you are struggling. Delegation also acts as motivation for your staff. Start with small duties like stock control, social media updates and clients’ birthday calls.

Client sharing I have come to the realisation that it is impossible to effectively manage my business and service every single one of my clients. So I have personally implemented the principle of clientsharing in my spa. Whenever I sell a course of treatments, every second appointment I hand the client over to one of my other therapists. I welcome the client in, conduct a skin analysis and recommend the treatment protocol to the therapist.

Go digital A software programme is nonnegotiable if you want to save time and be more efficient in running

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your business, as you can have an overview of your business at the touch of a button. Client record cards, birthday list reminders and commission sheets should all be in a digital format. To assist you with streamlining your social media posts, try a programme called Hootsuite (www. hootsuite.com). It allows you to schedule messages, manage all your social accounts and measure social media campaigns, all with just one tool. For amazing Facebook banners, flyers, posters and invitations, try CANVA (www.canva.com).

Professional help When you’re wearing so many hats

(owner, manager and therapist) there is a lot that gets overlooked and can hinder business growth. So involve your suppliers to assist with events, stock display in cupboards, staff motivation and sales training. There are companies that can manage your entire social media portfolio if you feel it gets too overwhelming. Lastly, invest in yourself. This is probably the hardest thing to accomplish. It’s amazing how we take care of everyone around us but forget ourselves in the process. Keeping up with industry trends and networking with peers is a great way to become selfmotivated and to grow. This will enable you to learn from others’ experiences and mistakes as well as achieve great success. The work/life balance should not be a myth; it is essential to strike the right balance for your wellbeing. PB

Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and SkinDoctors.

Professional Beauty July 2016

business tips

Building up trust with your clients As human beings, trust is an important element for human interaction in order to create deeper connections, writes Lauren Gibson.

Loyalty When we build trust the reward is loyalty and return clients who listen to your every word. But don’t abuse these loyal clients – treat them as a new guest every time and ensure you are consistent.

Five key trust builders

Clients want to know that you are updating your knowledge with regular training and research. They want to know that you have a goal and action plan for their skin. You need to discuss honest expectations and state upfront that you are not a miracle worker. Don’t be scared to have this conversation with your clients, as it builds respect and trust. You are an educated skin mechanic using your hands to create a service. Just imagine if you engage your heart and do more with each client to strengthen the human connection. Human connection amplifies our art of service. What are you doing to ensure you are amplified? PB

Lauren Gibson has worked for Dermalogica for nearly four years. She has been an educator, sales brand consultant, and, more recently, the regional manager for Cape Town. Her passion lies in upskilling people, seeing the potential in businesses and unlocking that potential and constantly learning to reignite her love for the industry. E-mail: laureng@dermalogica.co.za

Professional Beauty July 2016

• Advance your education and never stop learning; • Have a treatment at a skin centre with another therapist. This is so important for your own skin and a chance for you to learn and explore other ways of doing treatments; • Visualise and describe yourself as a skin expert. The client of the future wants experts working on their skin who offer results, not someone offering pampering and beauty;

Photo: Tim Gerge s

he cornerstone of our business and the work we do every day as professional skincare therapists revolves around trust. Every hour of every day, clients come into our space with their most vulnerable and insecure concerns. They sit in your treatment room and allow you to work intimately on their main concerns across their bodies. And, if you lose that trust – the ability to repair it is harder than you think. We need to trust our own hands as we carry our career in our hands. But do your trust your own skill? The trusting of your skill is only step one. Step two is connecting your heart to what you do every day – or when you work with purpose. Trust is not a single factor – it is a combination of sincerity, reliability, commitment, integrity, competence and consistency. And, you need to be brutally honest with yourself: are you living up to these elements every day? Does your team encompass this for you as a business owner?

• Implement a skincare routine or priority plan with goals for your client’s skin. This should be reviewed every three to six months and amended if need be; • Identify the client as your skin partner. Together you can achieve great skin results. Jane Wurwand (Dermalogica founder)

online at www.probeauty.co.za

On: 28 & 29 August 2016 at: Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand

2016

SUNDAY 28 AUgUSt 2016

MONDAY 29 AUgUSt 2016

8h30

Registration

9h00

Registration

9h30

Welcome by Mark Moloney

9h30

SALES tRAiNiNg WORKShOP - WALKiNg With giANtS

10h00 KEYNOtE SPEAKER

Venetia Butler

Andrew Gibson

Director of training at SALESGURU (Africa’s leading sales and sales management training company)

VP Spa and Wellness Fairmont Raffles Hotels and Resorts

11h30

11h00

Tea

11h30 – 13h00 Workshop continued

Tea / coffee

13h00 – 14h30 Lunch and exhibition

12h00 StAFF

14h30 CUStOMER SERviCE

Staff Retention programmes

First contact with your business

How to recruit the right team

Customer narrative

Invest in training your team

Attention to detail of the customer treatment

13h00 – 15h00 Lunch and exhibition

Customer feedback: the lost art of connection

15h00 MARKEtiNg

15h30 REvENUE MANAgEMENt

How to put together an advert

Understanding cost of goods and how it impacts your bottom line

Power of copywriting Social Media: How impactful is it and how does it affect your turnover?

Effective booking of treatments and upselling Improve your bottom line or your business will go bottoms up!

Mobile marketing

16h30 Close

16h00 ECO SUStAiNABiLitY Renewal sources

Let’s talk about it...

Carbon neutral ideas

17h30

Tea and Close

BOOK EARLY FOR YOUR 2016 DELEGATE PASS Check the website for online bookings and benefits: www.probeauty.co.za

more info: www.probeauty.co.za

spa convention

Q&A with Venetia Butler Director of training at SALESGURU, Venetia Butler, will hold a half-day sales training workshop entitled ‘Walking With Giants’ on Monday, 29 August at the International Spa Convention, which runs at Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand, alongside the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo. Why do you think that it’s important for spa and salon owners and managers to attend events like the ‘Walking With Giants’ sales workshop? I like to relate opportunities like this sales workshop to a handbrake moment, where you are able to stop and reflect inwards. So much of spa and salon managers/owners’ every day consists of service to others. ‘Walking With Giants’ is a moment in time for them to be served.

Beauty therapists are traditionally not regarded as having good retail skills. What single vital piece of advice would you give them to become better retailers? In the environment in which beauty therapists work, advice can often be provided without necessarily understanding their needs or those of their clients. Ensuring that the client’s needs surpass the ‘sale’, by means of asking rather than telling, provides the trust and respect necessary in order to create an environment where the client actually wants to buy.

Venetia Butler is known as one of South Africa’s best trainers in sales leadership and management and is currently the director of training at Salesguru, one of the leading sales and sales management training companies in Africa. Her clients include Nashua, Old Mutual, Sasfin, VW, Toyota, Lexmark, Oracle, FNB, Liberty and Momentum. Butler’s experience includes a highly successful recruitment career, running her own business, sales coaching and developing leaders who are able to inspire change in the people they manage. She is dedicated to making a tangible difference in the realm of sales and leadership; her content marries real-life, tangible, personal examples with the experience gained in her versatile career.

What will you focus on in your sales workshop at the International Spa Convention? I will focus on three main factors – you, your service and your audience. What does your service really look like and how do you consistently check-in, provide value and remain the first choice customers make when faced with so many options in today’s competitive environment. What truly is that point of differentiation?

What do you hope that delegates will take away with them from your workshop? I hope they will take away practical tools that enable them to execute the clients’ ‘take-aways’, as well as inspiration and the challenge to provide a world-class service to themselves and the customers. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty July 2016

spa focus

The Spa at ‘Mouse House’ Recently relaunched, the Spa at Granny Mouse Country House in Balgowan now offers guests extended hours and greets them with a tailor-made welcome ritual, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

eing situated in a luxurious country hotel nestled in KwaZuluNatal’s scenic Midlands Meander is always going to be a plus for a spa, especially if the location is at the foot of the World Heritage uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Mountains. Because lavender plays a huge role in the country surroundings, the spa’s colour scheme follows suit. “The lavender shades also introduce calm and tranquillity within the surroundings and are pleasing on the eye,” notes Sean Granger, GM of Granny Mouse Country House & Spa. Commenting on the newly introduced welcome ritual for spa guests, Granger says: “Every spa is set apart from others with what they offer their clientele. A specific welcome treatment gives the client an entirely different experience which no other spa does. “The welcome ritual at the Granny

Mouse Spa is a foot bath with added scented salts and essential oils that welcomes each client and allows them to feel a sense of relaxation. This ritual initiates the full treatment they have booked for, which then follows thereafter. We also offer guests a refreshing beverage after each treatment.” As per client demand, the spa’s operational hours have been extended over the weekend and now run from 09h00 to 21h00. This allows for longer treatments. Other news is the introduction of the spa’s first hair treatment. Granger continues: “The clientele at Granny Mouse tend to walk into the spa and request hair treatments, so we are introducing this treatment on a trial basis. It’s the CSpa Hydra Boost Masque Hair Treatment, which can be added to the guest’s Indian head massage at an additional cost. If this treatment proves popular, we would then look to introduce a wider

Professional Beauty July 2016

range of hair products in the future. “We already use the CSpa brand in our facial and body treatments. It is a locally branded product made to cater to the overall clientele base. It is cost-effective and uses excellent ingredients – that of therapeutic aromatherapy oils and natural-based ingredients.”

Caviar on the menu A new treatment on the Granny Mouse House Spa menu is the Caviar Pedicure, a foot soak that has the appearance of little caviar fish-eggs that swell into balls when immersed in water.

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spa focus

Spa at a glance Opened: February 2010 Owner: Granny Mouse Country House Size: 375 m2 Number of rooms: 3 single/couples treatment rooms Hydro facilities: Hydro bath room and jacuzzi Number of full-time therapists: 4

According to Granger, the pedicure is also aromatic, as it has a variety of essentials oils added to it to enhance its therapeutic values. “The benefit of having this treatment is that it nourishes and tones the skin and nails.” He notes that the spa’s signature treatment caters for overall physical and mental wellbeing. “The client starts off with an invigorating salt scrub that includes freshly picked lavender and rosemary from the Granny Mouse garden. Thereafter the client is treated to a relaxing therapeutic massage. Then, to re-energise and detox, a seaweed wrap that is infused with active ingredients and trace elements is applied onto the back. While the client relaxes in the wrap, the therapist performs a CSpa rebalancing facial, which has highly active aromatherapy oils that cater for every aspect of the client’s skin and their specific concerns,” comments Granger.

Management When the spa first opened back in 2010, the owners of Granny Mouse opted for a Camelot-managed spa. “At the time, Camelot’s management structures and treatment schedules were the best available for our requirements, being in the countryside. A Camelot team manages the spa on a daily basis,” explains Granger. PB

Professional Beauty July 2016

spa focus

Feel the heat

Marisa Dimitriadis puts the spotlight on heat treatments in the spa and the benefits thereof.

eat is not a luxury, it’s an absolute must have. Let’s have a look firstly at what heat does to the body before we have a look at the different sources of heat, and what types of heat treatments can be offered in the spa. Heat opens up or dilates the blood vessels, which, in turn, increases blood flow and supplies oxygen and nutrients to reduce pain in joints and relax sore muscles. Furthermore, heat decreases muscle spasms and can increase joint flexibility. Applying superficial heat to your body can improve the flexibility of tendons and ligaments; reduce muscle spasms and alleviate pain. Heat helps to stretch soft tissues and relax sore muscles, which promotes flexibility and decreases stiffness. Sources of heat can be either dry or moist warmth. Dry heat sources might dry the skin, whereas moist heat may penetrate better. Heat can be applied in so many different forms, such as electric or microwavable

heating pads or blankets, hot water bottles, gel packs, or hot water baths. The heat should be warm, not too hot, and maintained at a consistent temperature for best results.

Pre-treatment Application of heat prior to any treatment in the spa will increase its effectiveness purely from a cleansing, relaxing and soothing point of view. In a spa environment heat treatments offer the following to your guest: increased circulation; warming of the body; improved skin colour; sweat glands secreting excess waste; accumulated lactic acid in muscles being dispersed; tense muscles being relaxed; tissue being softened and a general feeling of wellbeing being achieved. Depending on your type of spa, there are different sources of heat you can offer to your guests, starting with the most accessible and easiest source – a shower. This is a must for every salon offering massage; start

Professional Beauty July 2016

the treatment with a two-minute hot shower to calm and relax the body prior to the massage. Alternatively, an electric blanket can be used beneath the towelling on the treatment bed to offer warmth for the duration of the treatment. During the summer months, when the ambient temperature is already high, perhaps localised heat application is better, such as applying a hot water bottle, or heated bean

Sources of heat can be either dry or moist warmth. Dry heat sources might dry the skin, whereas moist heat may penetrate better.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

spa focus

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty July 2016

spa focus

Image courtesy of WFA

bag, to the areas of the body in need of deeper muscle release, like the shoulders or lower back.

Introducing heat Look for simple ways to introduce heat during a treatment; for example, heat up your massage oil, or use hot soya wax to massage with. Other options are to use a self-heating body mask or self-heating body exfoliator, massage balms that melt with heat and give a glorious sensation to the skin, and hot stones or warm lava shells as massage tools. You can also use steam during

You can also use steam during a massage on localised areas, such as the back, to induce sweating for additional cleansing and relaxing.

a massage on localised areas, such as the back, to induce sweating for additional cleansing and relaxing. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good idea, for instance, to use heated boots during a pedicure for mask absorption and a deeper level of relaxation.

The benefits to the skin of steaming are really amazing, from softening the skin to increasing the metabolic rate.

Infrared Infrared heat is a form of energy that allows you to heat the body more effectively and penetrate more deeply than other types of heat. It can be utilised locally with an infrared light therapy device, or more broadly, with an infrared sauna. This form of heat also releases nitric oxide, which improves circulation and increases oxygen and other nutrients coming to help heal the injured area. One of the main differences between a traditional sauna and an infrared sauna is the actual temperature of the units. Traditional dry saunas use temperatures as high as 85 to 90 degrees Celsius, which can be a little overwhelming to those who are more sensitive to the heat. Infrared saunas use a much milder temperature environment of between 48 and 65 degrees Celsius. However, because the

Professional Beauty July 2016

heat of infrared saunas travels much deeper into the body, they are able to cause a more vigorous sweat at lower temperature. A traditional dry sauna uses a stove to heat the air. As the temperature of the air increases around you, the temperature of your body increases as well. This causes your body to start the cooling process by transporting blood closer to the surface of the skin and opening pores through sweating. Infrared saunas also heat the surrounding air but to a lesser degree. Instead, infrared saunas use infrared heaters to emit a specific wavelength of infrared light. Your skin absorbs this wavelength, causing your body's temperature to rise, getting the same effects as a traditional sauna with less overall heat needed.

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spa focus

35 Cautionary tips • Don’t apply heat for longer than 20 minutes, unless specifically recommended for a reason; • Don’t use heat if there is swelling – use cold first, then heat; • Don’t use heat if the client has poor circulation (thrombosis history) or diabetes; • Don’t use heat on an open wound or stitches; • Don’t lie down directly on a heating pad – you could fall asleep and burn your skin; • Use heat with caution on clients with very high or very low blood pressure; • Heat is contra-zindicated for any respiratory conditions like pneumonia or bronchitis, epilepsy, after alcohol consumption, after a heavy meal, and during later stages of pregnancy.

Another difference between a traditional sauna and an infrared sauna is the amount of power required to operate each unit. Traditional saunas require more overall power to run, with a typical sauna taking up 6kW of power in comparison to the typical 1.6kW needed for the infrared sauna. This means that a traditional sauna is almost three times as expensive to run as an infrared sauna. This can make a difference, depending on how often you use the unit.

Steam room A steam room is going to have a lower temperature than a traditional dry sauna, but it is also going to employ large amounts of heated steam, which creates a humid experience. The benefits to the skin of steaming are really amazing, from softening the skin to increasing the metabolic rate. Sweat glands are stimulated and waste is dispersed from the skin, giving it a good cleanse. The body totally relaxes, with the nerve endings soothed, resulting in a calming and relaxing feeling that perfectly prepares a guest for a treatment like a massage, body wrap or facial.

Blood shunting A really interesting fact about heat treatments is the blood-shunting process. Blood-shunting means rerouting blood to various parts of the body where it is needed the most. During heat treatments blood is shunted to the skin and away from the vital organs to help the body maintain a normal temperature. After eating a large and heavy meal blood is shunted to the intestines to help with digestion, making it important that heat treatments are not applied after eating a heavy meal. PB

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.

Professional Beauty July 2016

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sponsored editorial

Caring for your skin and body in winter By Dr Des Fernandes Winter poses particular problems as the cold weather and heating systems promote dry skin, and our natural ceramides drop.

ften the skin on the neck becomes much more sensitive during winter than at other times of the year. Consequently, some people can develop a retinoid reaction with red, irritated skin. At the same time we are prone to getting colds and scientists believe this is probably the result of an impaired immune system that results mainly from a vitamin D deficiency. The reason why we cannot make vitamin D even if we expose ourselves to the sun is that in winter outside the tropics, there are virtually no UVB rays at midday so we cannot initiate the chemical changes that result in the production of vitamin D. The fact that we could also have a vitamin A deficiency would aggravate the impairment of the immune system.

What can we do to optimise our skin and body in winter? The very first thing to do is to ensure that our vitamin D levels are healthy. I would use Environ Vitamin A and D, Basic Antioxidant and the Complete Antioxidant supplements twice a day. Because the skin tends to become dry it is a good idea to drop the level of vitamin A. Some people drop one level whereas others might drop to the lowest doses of vitamin A. Many people find it more comfortable to avoid placing vitamin A products on the neck on account of sensitivity. This sensitive skin is aggravated by woollen scarves etc. so use the finest silk instead. Many people relieve dryness by using Derma-Lac as a toner. Other people add the Derma-Lac after they have used the standard toner. A lot of people need additional moisture so should add either the Super Moisturiser + or the Focus Hydrating Serum. One needs to use the Cosmetic Roll-CIT every day if using

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hyaluronic acid. The Environ Roll CIT will assist with further product penetration as it creates physical microscopic channels in the skin. The Super Moisturiser+ is a superb product for adding protection especially in winter, while the Pentavitin® and Revidrate™ will assist with repairing the skin’s barrier and with boosting the skin’s natural hydration. These should be applied on top of your normal skin regime. One does not need a high SPF in winter in northern areas: there are no UVB rays to block so we are exposing our skin to chemicals without effect. However, we still need protection from UVA rays. If you are exposed to a lot of light at work and computer screens then you are getting some UVA irradiation so your UV sunscreen with antioxidants like RAD will give you great protection. Winter is the time to continue a series of Environ Cool Peels to maximise the natural growth factors so that the skin will be in optimal condition by springtime. PB

Professional Beauty July 2016

treatment review - cupping massage

Time out Following an overly strenuous workout at the gym, Joanna Sterkowicz opts to ease her stiff, aching body with a Lilian Terry International cupping massage utilising the brand’s Sportz Muscle Complex.

s the winter weather set in, I found that I was consuming far more food than usual. Panicked about putting on weight, I raced to the gym to urgently work off the extra calories. Sadly, I overdid it and landed up with a slightly strained back and very stiff muscles. Elona Lombard from Lilian Terry International (LTI) suggested that I go to a lovely spa in Benoni, called Serran-Dippati, for an LTI Sportz Muscle Complex massage. I’d previously had an LTI cupping treatment for cellulite and found it very effective in terms of lympathic drainage and stimulation of circulation in the blood vessels, so I was interested to experience this massage. The cupping procedure creates a small area of low or negative pressure next to the skin, which gets sucked into the cup, resulting in the immediate opening of blood vessels in the dermal and subdermal layers of the skin. Lombard explained that LTI has developed a new cup shape made of pure, chemically neutral ISO approved silicone. “Using these LT FlexyCups, together with the our homeopathic aromatherapy massage oils, it is possible to achieve a smooth, nontraumatic massage that increases the spread and penetration of these healing complex oils into the deeper layers of skin to activate the cell receptors.” Serran-Dippati therapist, Bianca Whiston, commenced the treatment by covering me with a blanket and performing a gentle rocking motion on each side, to warm up the body

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in preparation for the LT Muscle Ease Body Wrap. “This clay wrap is particularly recommended for aching muscles and joints, so therefore ideal for treating your stiffness,” commented Whiston. “The key ingredients are naturally pigmented, green sundried clay, which is rich in copper, calcium, sulphur and potassium. These minerals ease muscular inflammation, discomfort and aching joints. The mask also contains essential oils of lavender, known for its anti-inflammatory properties, marjoram and ylang ylang.” Whiston applied the wrap to my back and legs and then covered me in wrapping plastic for 20 minutes, during which time she performed a head massage. I was then asked to wash off the mask in the shower so that Whiston could commence the 30-minute massage.

While she applied the LT Sportz Muscle Complex, Whiston explained it contains homeopathic ingredients (Ruta graveolens, Bellis perennis, Arnica montana and Acidum formicum); essential oils (black pepper, Lavender and Ginger) and Grapeseed as the carrier oil. The massage itself, performed with the LT FlexyCup, was, so relaxing in fact that I forgot that Whiston was actually using a cup. This came as a pleasant surprise as I remembered that during my cupping cellulite treatment, I did feel the vacuum pressure created by the cup quite acutely. Post treatment my body felt completely relaxed and soothed, and my muscles ached no more. I would highly recommend this treatment. PB Contact: Lilian Terry International 012 361 2606

Professional Beauty July 2016

pregnancy treatments

Expectant

expectations No-one needs more specialised treatment at salons and spas then pregnant women, not only for reasons of safety for the unborn baby, but because the skin is extra sensitive during pregnancy, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

lthough pregnancy hormones can run riot and result in clogged pores and breakouts, treatments such as microdermabrasion, chemical peels, electronic stimulation, deep extraction and hot stones should be avoided. In fact, any treatments that include heat are a no-no. Only treatments that emphasise relaxation and utilise pregnancysafe products should be offered and performed by therapists specially trained to treat mothers-to-be*. Then there is the issue of changing body shape and the dreaded stretch marks that occur, known as striae. These most commonly appear in the second and third trimesters of pregnancy, especially on the stomach, breasts, hips, buttocks and thighs. Lilian Terry International (LTI) offers a range of homeopathic aromatherapy massage oils, some of which are safe to use during pregnancy. The most gentle of these oils is called Stretch Marks, which can be used from the first trimester. “Stretch Marks improves the skin’s elasticity, is very hydrating and works especially well in not only preventing but also treating stretch marks. From the second trimester onwards, the following LTI massage oils are safe to use – Osto, Tramino, Vascu Flow, Foot Formula, Bito, Herpo, Lungo, Confidence, Neck Formula, Back Formula, Travel Time, Sino, Artho L, Artho S, Expectant Mom & Tots bath oil, as well as all the nail, hair & scalp

outstanding and have proven themselves over many years. From the feedback I have received it is considered to be the most effective means of preventing stretch marks.” Bio-Oil’s nourishing ingredients, massage helps to increase circulation and the nutrient supply to the skin.

Pampering treatments

as well as facial complexes. These massage oils assist with a range of different ailments including backache, water retention, nausea and more and can safely be incorporated into a pregnancy massage or treatment,” explains LTI GM, Carli Argirova. She notes that LTI is not only for mom but for babies and toddlers too, with three specific kids complexes namely Lullabye (insomnia, nightmares), Hyper K (hyperactivity) and Abdocalm K (colic, intestinal cramps) – these three complexes are also very popular to use in baby massage.

For expectant moms, Babor recommends some pampering with its Babor Spa Shaping For Body range. Say the Babor experts: “We particularly love the Lifting Body Cream. During pregnancy it is important to keep your skin nourished correctly to ease the transition back to normal after pregnancy. Stem cell extracts from the rare elsberry and tropical almonds protect your skin, while the shaping complex derived from artichokes, a super molecule consisting of four components, and levan polysaccharide for promoting fat loss, work together to tone your figure. “The complex promotes elasticity of the skin and moulds your body

Soothing oil Lynne Bluff, leading childbirth educator and editor of The Expectant Mother’s Guide says: “I actively encourage all pregnant women to use Bio-Oil daily, throughout their pregnancy. The results are

Professional Beauty July 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

pregnancy treatments

while protecting it against premature ageing. Thermal water from Aachen, enriched with valuable minerals and trace elements, vitalises your skin and provides additional support to the skin’s immune system while keeping your skin beautifully hydrated.”

Nurturing touch Luxury spa brand Elemis has specifically designed two Only body treatments for treatments that pregnant clients, namely Mother to be Massage emphasise relaxation and and the Peaceful utilise pregnancy-safe Pregnancy Massage. Says Noella Gabriel products should be offered of Elemis: “These and performed by therapists thoroughly researched and carefully formulated specially trained to treat treatments have been mothers-to-be*. designed to gently nurture Oat Extract. It and support a woman is excellent for through the rich experience of excessively dry skin each trimester. conditions and is a “We have many products to complete food for the skin. nurture expectant moms and their bodies, from light, moisturising oils Speciality range that will keep stretch marks at bay, The award-winning Mama Mio brand to invigorating gels for weary limbs.” was created by four beauty experts The Elemis Body Oil Blend and mothers, to offer nurturing, contains Japanese Camellia Oil, a muscle-easing, leg-lightening, skinlight oil that is ideal for pregnancy elasticising pre-natal treatments. massage and is easily absorbed and Mama Mio’s evolved ‘No Nasties’ rich in plant collagen to keep the skin standard, cutting edge ingredients moisturised and supple, helping to and improved formulations ensure prevent stretch marks. the cleanest and most effective Also from Elemis, the Skin skincare for moms-to-be. Nourishing Milk Bath comprises Key Mama Mio products include: a unique balancing formula that Gorgeous Glow Balancing Facial leaves the skin feeling nourished. Wash; Pregnancy BoobTube Bust The special milk protein base, rich in Protection; Megamama Super Rich vitamins, amino acids and minerals, Omega Body Lotion; Goodbye contains natural plant collagen Stretch Marks; and Lucky Legs from Japanese Camellia Oil and Cooling Energising Leg Gel. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

*Sources: www.whattoexpect.com; www.todaysparent.com

Professional Beauty July 2016

marine ingredients

The sea smarts It’s no coincidence that ingredients sourced from the oceans are increasingly included in the formulations of many top professional brands, as the benefits of marine-based skincare have been known for centuries.

eawater and blood plasma have a nearly identical chemical composition in terms of mineral and trace element levels. Both blood plasma and seawater contain naturally occurring trace elements and minerals, and the concentration of each mineral present is very similar. In fact, seawater is so close to the body’s internal environment that if white blood cells are removed from the body and placed in a sterile diluted seawater solution, they are able to maintain normal cell function. * Recent studies show that the use of algae in skincare products has more than doubled since 2004, according to Alison Yammin, Thalgo brand manager at Marine Spa Distributors. “This is due to the fact that seawater and seaweed are in perfect affinity with our skin and thus ‘bio-available’ to the human body. Marine products are so efficient for this reason, as this remarkable affinity maintains the dynamic balance of the epidermis and delivers all vital micronutrients to ensure a healthy, youthful skin.”

Yammin notes that Thalgo’s cornerstone patent, MMA (Micronised Marine Algae), provides a facial that combines a natural pure brown algae mask with high potency marine extracts. “Its anti-bacterial effect is ideal for oily and acne prone skin. This unique treatment deeply cleanses the skin and regulates sebum production, as well as deeply nourishes the skin with vital vitamins and minerals,“ she comments.

Cool collagen Elemis’ hero product is Pro-Collagen Marine Cream – there is one sold every 10 seconds. Director of product and treatment development at Elemis, Noella Gabriel, notes that the product has been clinically proven to deliver a 45% increase in hydration and 78% reduction in the depth of wrinkles. “Pro Collagen Marine Cream contains Padina pavonica, an algae that is sourced from the waters of Malta and mimics the skin’s own function. Tests have shown that Pro-

Professional Beauty July 2016

Collagen Marine Cream transforms the complexion in just two weeks. It also features ginkgo biloba liposomes to encourage the deep penetration of moisture into the skin,” explains Gabriel.

Marine biotechnology Phytomer is a pioneer in marine biotechnology, a recent breakthrough innovation in marine skincare. “Marine biotechnology is often considered as the cosmeceutical of the marine world and provides an almost infinite number of possibilities for new skincare applications,“ says Ayesha Rajah of A&I Importers. “This technology uses micro-organisms extracted from the sea to produce extraordinary marine sugars. These marine sugars cannot be copied by traditional cosmetics.“ XMF (Extra Marine Filler) is the star ingredient of Phytomer’s Pionnière XMF premium range, as it instantly smoothes wrinkles and plumps skin, in just one hour.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

marine ingredients

Kelp extract The DermaFix Corrective Activator is derived from the outer epithelial shell of kelp. This extract is grown in the clean North Atlantic and Artic waters. Ursula Hunt of DermaFix describes the product as a natural exfoliator that has an adaptogenic ‘stress resistant‘ benefit on the skin. ‘It is a super anti-oxidant and has anti-inflammatory long term benefits, all of which result in smoother and more radiant skin. The Corrective Activator provides positive cumulative effects enhancing tone, firmness and skin health,“ explains Hunt.

Concentrated concentrate Sea Creation The Serum from Babor is an anti-ageing active concentrate. The active ‘sea-telligent’ complex found in Sea Creation The Serum has an all-round anti-ageing effect. Say the experts at Babor: “The anti-ageing protein is a micro-

organism found in the depths of the South Polar Sea that has been fermented to create one of the most exquisite anti-ageing proteins. These proteins activate fibroblasts to produce collagen, which are responsible for skin firmness and stability. Skin is regenerated, ensuring a smooth and refined skin texture. “The green micro-algae stimulate protein synthesis and improve skin structure .They are immensely nutrient dense because they absorb minerals and trace elements directly via their surface, increasing skin elasticity while resculpting facial contours.”

Ingestibles Marine plasma has been studied for over a century for its regenerating and rebalancing properties, as it

is physically, physiologically and chemically identical to the human internal organism, and an essential support for cellular life and healthy skin. Thalgo’s L’Océane is a 100% natural marine plasma that provides the body with all the vital energy of the sea. Overexertion, loss of energy, lack of vitality and reduced strength during a diet are all significantly alleviated. L’Océane comprises hypertonic seawater, collected in the pure water of protected and controlled areas and packaged without undergoing hightemperature treatments or ionising radiation. Also from Thalgo, Ocea Draine contains 100% natural-origin active ingredients, including fucus brown algae and a complex of organic plants. This supplement helps to recover a sense of well-being and lightness. Fennel and artichoke extracts encourage detoxification of the body by helping to drain and eliminate toxins. Fucus brown algae helps promote weight loss. PB

Background pic source: www.bloglmn.com

*Source: www.skininc.com

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty July 2016

lasers, ipls & radiofrequency

Alternative

energy

Professional Beauty puts the spotlight on the latest energy-based technologies on the market.

hese days it is unusual to come across a beauty salon that has not got at least one laser, IPL (intense pulsed light) or RF (radiofrequency) device, so as to be able to compete with treatments offered at medical aesthetics clinics. While both lasers and IPLs use light as an energy source to make changes in the skin, the former uses only a single wavelength, whereas IPL has a range of light wavelengths. RF, on the other hand is not based on light, but on electricity, creating energy which has a positive and negative pole.* All three technologies result in a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;controlledâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; injury to the skin, which causes

BTL Exilite applicator

Professional Beauty July 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

lasers, ipls & radiofrequency

45 BTL Exilite applicator

a healing response that sparks collagen formation and cell regeneration. The BTL Exilite is an advanced IPL system for treating skin ageing, acne, pigmentation and vascular lesions. It also offers effective hair removal on all skin types. Says Branislav Sucansky of BTL Medical: “The Exilite’s uniform distribution of light achieves faster, more effective results, while the multi-pulse mode and advanced cooling system enable gentle delivery of energy into the skin, decreasing the risk of unwanted reactions, such as redness. “What stands out in terms of the technology is the use of high-precision filters rather than hand pieces, which can be costly as they have to be replaced after a certain amount of shot counts. Energy output of the filters delivers the same results as a hand piece would.”

Monopolar RF BTL’s Exilis Elite uses a specific RF technology combined with ultrasound waves (both delivered simultaneously) for the volume reduction and recontouring of problem body areas, as well as the R

Professional Beauty July 2016

lasers, ipls & radiofrequency

remodelling and rejuvenation of facial features. Sucansky points out that that the BTL Exilis Elite uses monopolar radiofrequency – meaning it only has one pole (on the hand piece) and an electrode with the energy travelling between the pole and the electrode. He continues: “This in combination with the adjustable cooling system enables an effective delivery of heat into the deeper layers of the skin/fat tissue to promote effective stimulation of collagen synthesis (facial rejuvenation) or lipolysis and fat cell death (fat reduction). This is contrary to the bipolar technologies, where you have two, three or four poles on a hand piece, where the energy only travels on the skin’s surface searching for the shortest path from the positive pole to the negative pole. “Greater depth of heat penetration and the speed of heating is also improved by combining ultrasound technology on the same hand piece. “We must not forget that BTL Exilis Elite uses the EFC system, which measures the impedance of the tissue and adjusts the power accordingly in order to reach even heating without the very unpleasant and painful spikes known in other RF technologies. Thus we can use high output power on any patient.”

Clinic perspective The Laserderm group of medical aesthetics clinics use a wide range of energy-based devices supplied by Stern Laser to offer clients a broad range of treatments. Says Dr Leane Louw: “Sometimes Botox is just not enough to just prevent crow’s feet. Resurfacing lasers will stimulate new collagen around the eyes and for the visible lines. Our Fraxel resurfacing treatment can be used as a preventative treatment. “Fractional laser resurfacing

décolleté, known to be difficult areas to treat due to the delicate nature of the skin in these areas. Fraxel is very effective at removing sun damage, building up collagen, resurfacing poor texture, and softening fine lines and wrinkles. Ulthera skin tightening treatments are used by many celebrities to tighten jawlines, necks, and lift jowls and foreheads. Say the Laserderm experts: “Ulthera is known as the ‘non surgical facel and neck lift’ and effects last for up to five years. By using Ulthera’s ultrasound energy to stimulate fibroblasts in the dermal layer of the skin, new collagen is formed, leading to thicker, healthier skin and fewer lines and wrinkles.”

Medilase: Viora ReFine

can deliver similar results to that of ablative resurfacing, without the discomfort and inconvenience of a lengthy healing period. This in-room treatment is done with a topical anaesthetic cream and takes approximately 30 minutes. The procedure has an excellent safety profile, with minor blistering very uncommon and scarring virtually unknown.” Performed with a Fraxel laser, fractional laser resurfacing treats a small ‘fraction’ of the skin, leaving intact, undamaged skin around each treated area to act as a barrier and reservoir for rapid healing. The laser passes through the dry outer layer of skin, and wounds the underlying collagen. Nearby undamaged cells immediately mobilise to heal the wounded area. No visible wound is created, so no wound care is needed. For deeper lines and wrinkles, especially under the eyes, Louw recommends CO2 Re (fractionated CO2 resurfacing). “The downtime for CO2 RE is a week - but the results are well worth it.” Fraxel, combined with Ulthera, can also be used for the neck and

Professional Beauty July 2016

Waves Laserderm offers Z-wave, which it describes as the newest and most effective treatment for cellulite to date. Z-wave uses high energy radial shockwaves in the reduction and improvement of Grade 1-3 cellulite (mild to moderate dimpling). During the treatment these radial waves are applied to the affected area. The surrounding tissue is affected and breaks occur in the grid of the molecules. This leads to a collapse of the gas bubbles within the fat structures (cavitation) and destabilises the fat structures. This is not a stand-alone procedure – Laserderm believes in using a combination of treatments to get the optimum results which include Carboxytherapy, Synergie AMS Massage and topical agents like cellulite creams or gels.

Not on ‘ice’ Alma Lasers, distributed by Best Lasers, is proud to present the Soprano ICE Platinum, a limited edition platform for 2016 featuring trio clustered diode technology. The Platinum edition combines three laser wavelengths into a

online at www.probeauty.co.za

lasers, ipls & radiofrequency

LimitedU M TIN PLA Edition

Best Lasers: Soprano ICE Platinum

INNOVATIVE 3-IN-1 APPLICATOR

SUITABLE FOR ALL SKIN TYPES, INCLUDING TANNED SKIN

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single innovative hand piece, simultaneously targeting different tissue depths, as well as anatomical structures within the hair follicle. Soprano ICE Platinum combines the absorption and penetration levels of three different wavelengths, along with the treatment coverage, comfort and low maintenance of the diode laser. The trio clustered diode technology comprises the Alex 755NM wavelength (Alexandrite wavelength); Speed 810NM wavelength; and the YAG 1064NM wavelength. In addition the Soprano ICE Platinum incorporates Alma’s SHR method, ensuring safe and comfortable hair removal. Rather than exposing hair follicles to a single high energy pulse which can cause trauma to the skin, SHR works by gradually heating the dermis to a temperature that effectively damages the hair follicles and prevents regrowth, while avoiding 10 YEARS injury toOFthe surrounding tissue. A

CLINICALLY PROVEN EFFECTIVENESS

high repetition rate of short pulses is delivered deep into the dermis, achieving high average power and therapeutically effective heat build-up. The sweeping In-MotionTM technique of moving the applicator repeatedly over the treatment area ensures full coverage while ICETM tech cools the skin's surface, thus preventing superficial burns and allowing for virtually painless yet highly effective hair removal.

Refining treatment Viora ReFine, distributed by Medilase, can be used by aestheticians to tighten skin, erase lines, improve skin texture and restore skin elasticity. Says Naomi Olivier of Medilase (part of the Hitech Group): “With Viora’s advanced RF technologies, aesthetic treatments are elevated to a new level, taking into account the client’s needs, no matter the skin type. “Viora ReFine treatment sessions R

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ma Lasers GmbH

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rdostpark 100-102 411 Nürnberg, Germany + 49 911 / 89 11 29-0 : + 49 911 / 89 11 29-99

©2016 Alma Lasers Ltd. All rights reserved. Alma, Alma Lasers, the Alma Lasers logo, ICE, In-motion, SHR, Soprano, the Soprano ICE logo, and Speed are either registered trademarks or trademarks of Alma Lasers Inc. in the United States and/or other countries.

o@almalasers.com

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3 Combined Wavele Proven Safety Record Virt

skin types all year round. lasers, ipls & radiofrequency

48 length and removing all types of hair on every skin photo type,” says Radiant Healthcare clinical trainer, Danelle Landman.

Intimate treatment

Radiant Healthcare: Primelase HR from Cocoon Medical

Radiant Healthcare: Adeline Plus from Syneron

primelase

are the safest, most comfortable and most effective possible. This system ensures that each solution can be tailored per individual, meaning that each client’s treatment Extreme can be designed specifically for them.” Due to Viora’s advanced SVC™ and CORE technology, all skin types can be treated throughout the year. Pain is minimal as Viora has included contact cooling within the hand piece to make the treatments as comfortable as possible, although some patients may feel a slight stinging or warm sensation. Results achieved with Viora’s ReFine treatments can typically be seen after the first session, although each patient may vary. ReFine’s recommended protocol is between four to six treatments, at intervals of four to six weeks.

A big ‘Plus’ Distributed by Radiant Healthcare, the Adeline Plus from Syneron is a pain-free, non-invasive aesthetic solution for hair removal, pigmentation, small blood vessels, scars, acne scars, stretch marks and wrinkle reduction. Comprehensive treatment kits that combine technology and skincare are supplied and there

An increasingly popular treatment at medical aesthetics clinics is vaginal rejuvenation. The BTL Intima uses advanced RF technology to tighten and firm the vulva area, improve lubrication and heighten sensitivity for greater sexual satisfaction. The vulva area is heated using RF to stimulate collagen synthesis and blood supply to the treated area for increased rejuvenation and heightened sensitivity. After the first 20-minute, in-office treatment, the client will experience an immediate plumpness and tightness. As she continues with the four recommended sessions – a week apart – the labia are tightened and raised, the diameter of the vaginal opening decreases, lubrication of the area improves, as does sexual satisfaction.

are pre-set parameters for all skin types to ensure safe and effective treatments. The Adeline Plus applicators use the revolutionary elos™ technology, a combination power. Prime results. Highestof Safety. Feminine touch safe and effective levels of infrared With a new hand piece called light and bi-polar RF energies to FemTouch, the Lumenis AcuPulse remodel the deep dermal layer of CO2 laser can now (apart from 10 the skin by stimulating new collagen other applications) also be used for growth. vaginal rejuvenation. Also distributed by Radiant Says the Hitech Group’s Naomi Healthcare, Primelase HR from Olivier: “This is an exciting new Cocoon Medical is a new laser development in the use of CO2 lasers. platform with different waveThe minimally invasive Fractional lengths, suitable for hair removal in CO2 laser beams are applied via the all skin photo types. FemTouch probe along the vaginal Primelase combines three wall, which results in very gentle different wave-lengths (755 nm, 810 controlled ablation and coagulation nm and 1060 nm) with the exclusive of the vaginal lining. This is a simple, USP (ultra short pulse) technology, fast and comfortable in-office which delivers ultra short pulses procedure. In general, only two at very high fluences in a few to four treatments are needed for miliseconds. optimal outcomes. No anaesthesia, “This technology positions nor special post-procedure care, is Primelase as one of the most required.” PB profitable and efficient platforms in the market, shortening the session *Source: www.advdermatology.com

Professional Beauty July 2016

Hitech Group: the Lumenis FemTouch

online at www.probeauty.co.za

product focus - nutritional supplements

That extra element A good quality supplement, whether it is a vitamin, mineral, herbal and botanical, amino acid, enzyme or marine extract, can greatly enhance the complexion. Cell health

The Pharma Supplements range from Environ assists in feeding the skin’s health and resilience from the inside out with a balanced combination of vitamins, nutrients and antioxidants. It helps to strengthen skin from within and keeps it looking healthier and more beautiful.

DermaFix MSM, which comprises 99% organic Methyl Sulfonyl Methane, is a skin supplement with a strong anti-inflammatory action assisting in improving overall cell health and wellbeing. This nutraceutical is indicated for the improvement of ageing, hyperpigmentation and acne-prone skin.

0800 220 402

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Food for the skin

On the gravevine The TheraVine Grapeseed Extract Supplements act as an anti-oxidant shield from the inside out. Consisting of 100% Grapeseed Extract (Proanthocyanidins), this supplement fights the processes associated with ageing, inhibits the generation of all types of free radicals, stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis and inhibits elastase activity. 021 886 6623

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Marine collagen Thalgo’s Collagène 5000 supplement is the latest comprehensive nutricosmetic wrinkle solution. This exclusive formula contains 5000mg of marine collagen with proven results to smooth the skin by reducing the number of wrinkles, prevent the formation of deep wrinkles and improve the skin’s suppleness and hydration. 011 880 3850

Professional Beauty July 2016

InSpIrIng toDay’S HaIrDrESSEr Date: 28 & 29 August 2016 Venue: Gallagher Convention Centre Opening Times: Sunday 10h00 – 18h00 Monday 10h00 – 17h00

Increase your knowledge • Stage Demos • Hair Competition • Exhibitor Demos ✪ Introducing Sensational Seminar Sessions Whether you are looking for personal or business growth, these attractions are not to be missed. Come along and gain invaluable advice from the top industry professionals on how you can make your efforts and creativity translate in a successful business.

the time for cHAnge is here!

the event for your professional hair business Register now for your fRee ticket and save the R250 entry fee.

www.salonafrica.co.za Salon Africa was previously known as Professional Hair

hair news

What’s hot in hair right now Professional Beauty asked David Gillson of Carlton Hair (Hyde Park and Melrose Arch branches) to identify the latest trends in hair styling and colour.

Couture Rebels by Christilene Erasmus-Bush for Carlton Hair

A Mother of Pearl collection by Angelo Seminara for Davines

Your Hair Assistant by Angelo Seminara for Davines

online at www.probeauty.co.za

return to ‘natural hair’ has been one of the overriding trends spotted on the catwalks in recent months, according to David Gillson, a hairdresser with 25 years of experience who regularly visits international hair shows like Cosmoprof Bologna and Davines World Wide. Gillson continues: “Natural hair has made a huge comeback, especially in terms of ethnic hair. We saw this trend on the runways of designer brands like Prada and Chanel, and it’s a complete backlash to hair extensions. “Caucasian hair is also embracing the natural look, leaving naturally curly hair as it is. The perm has made a bit of a comeback but is now done differently, with big rollers to achieve a soft bouncy curl, instead of a ‘crimped’ or frizzy style like the tight perms of the 1980s.” He notes that a huge current trend is the pop art look, with pastel shades in hair, namely pale pink, mint green and baby blue. “This look is not just for young people, as I’ve even done some pink for my mature clients. The other big trend is bleached hair, as currently seen on Taylor Swift. Hair products are now so much better these days, which means that women who previously couldn’t be bleached before can now be done. You can even bleach ethnic hair without damaging it.

“Grey hair is also a big trend at the moment. Now, when mature ladies are told by their hairdressers that they should cover their grey, they say no. Even young girls want to put grey colour on their hair,” explains Gillson. Another big trend is what Gillson calls ‘beachy hair’, where highlights are done with a Davines technique called Flamboyage, so that they don’t end up looking like stripes but are more blended and natural-looking.

Power of the net When asked to comment on the biggest change in the industry since he started out over two and a half decades ago, Gillson says, without any hesitation, the advent of the internet and social media platforms. “It’s so much easier now for hairdressers to stay absolutely up to date with the latest overseas trends, because, thanks to the internet, you can instantly see what’s on the catwalks, what celebrities are wearing and what’s trending on the likes of Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Twitter. “However, this means that you have to be on your toes all the time, because your customer is now more informed than ever before for the same reason. I can honestly say that social media has helped my career as I make sure I stay very active on social media platforms like Facebook and Instagram, for example. If you do this you are bound to generate lots and lots of followers, which can translate to more exposure for your work and business.” PB

Professional Beauty July 2016

Keep yourself up to date Reserve your place now! Please check the website for prices and full details.

www.probeauty.co.za

Nail Workshop Includes FREE ENTRY into the Nail Competition As a Nail Professional it is your duty and responsibility to deliver beneficial treatments and services with the utmost professionalism and care. Attending the EducatioNail workshops will equip and empower you with the necessary tools you need, to enhance and uplift your skills, knowledge and confidence!

JOHANNESBURG

28 & 29 AUGUST 2016

Nail & Make-up Competitions

A great opportunity to show off your skills and expertise.

Enter the Professional Beauty National Nail & Make-up Competitions and walk away with some amazing prizes. Competing is probably one of the most effective ways by which to gain further experience and assess yourself, your skills and techniques, whether you are already an experienced professional or just starting out as an aspiring professional. Besides the recognition and experience you will gain, it will boost your confidence and you will also be assisting in uplifting and setting standards within the professional industry. The winner of each category and level in the Nail and Make-up competitions, will receive R1000, a beautiful crystal trophy and gift hampers, 1st, 2nd and 3rd placements will be awarded in each category. Please do not hesitate to contact the Competition Director, Sonette van Rensburg should you have any questions or need further assistance. Cell no: 076 585 4191 email: sonettevr@gmail.com or sonette@probeauty.co.za

nails

The competitive spirit Sonette van Rensburg provides some valuable insight for the Annual Professional Beauty Nail Competition that takes place on 29 August at Gallagher Convention Centre.

hey say that experience is the best teacher. Having been in the nail & beauty industry for 27 years as a nail technician, salon owner, competitor, judge, competition director and educator, I can definitely say that this is so true. The first nail professional who made a great impact on me is the late Vicki Peters, an absolute icon in the nail industry and probably one of the most awarded nail competitors of all time. Starting off as an average nail technician to becoming a champion nail artist, competition judge and finally competition director, Peters retired from participating in nail competitions in 1989 to take on a position with Nails magazine as their show director. With the opportunity to design her absolute dream competition, she introduced ‘The Nails National Tour’, which led the industry in progressive nail competitions in the early 1990s. In her fantastic book, The

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Competitive Edge, she writes about the first time she ever competed and recalls how it awakened not only her competitive spirit, but the realisation that there was so much more to competing than just thinking you’re good enough. She also writes about everything to do with competing: why you should compete; what to expect; preparing to compete; competition preparation before and during the show; setting goals; choosing the correct model, preparing her nails and getting her ready for the competition; what products and equipment you need; timing; professionalism & sanitation; judging and what the judges are looking for; championship tips; competing smartly; post competition – the awards; the rewards; score sheets and results; the thrill of victory and the agony of defeat; and poor spirit and competitive spirit. The Competitive Edge can be purchased through Amazon.com and is a great investment for those who are serious

about their profession and who would like to compete. For the purposes of this article, I’ve asked three South Africa experts to provide their competition tips. R

Professional Beauty July 2016

nails

54 competitions, all 10 nails need to look the same with extensions in proportion to the model’s nail beds and hands in balance and form. Judges will be looking at: Product Control; Tip Shape; Surface Smoothness; Form Fit/Sculptured; Tip Blending & Tip Fit; Balance & Harmony; Length; Concave/Convex; Degree of C-Curve; Finished work; and Technical complexity. No matter which category you are competing in, the nail enhancements will act as your canvas for your nail art and should be constructed perfectly. Nail art categories require a theme to match your nail art set. Your model must come dressed in the theme of the competition, with make-up and hair done and a table setting to match the theme. Chose at least three different systems to work with such as Acrylic, Gel, Airbrushing, Painting, Rhinestones & Embellishments. You will need to provide a portfolio of the work you have done or will be doing. Remember to include a step by step as well as images, and inspiration on your chosen theme. The presentation of your portfolio should be well presented and complement your overall look

and theme. Remember that competition nails are all about creating an illusion. Most importantly, practice!

Tracey Lee is a South African-born, Netherlandsb a s e d , international nail artist, competition winner and educator. From 2012 to the end of 2015, she was director of education and head of product development for International Beauty Partners. Her educational vlog is called: TNT – Tracey’s Nail Talk. There are many advantages to competing – use it as an opportunity to assess and improve your professional skills. Each score sheet highlights the areas for improvement and, more importantly, reminds us of what we are already doing well. In preparation for, and during

competitions, nail techs are really pushed to the limit to create the ‘perfect set’ in a limited period of time. Again, this is the perfect set, not the salon set, however working against a strict timeline increases the speed of your nail services in the salon, which in turn creates additional revenue. Recognition – competing gives you the opportunity to obtain the recognition often not received in the salon. The recognition may become apparent in the salon when your clients become aware of your activities, thereby creating word of mouth. New contacts – remember that each and every competitor is in the same boat as they enter the competition arena. This creates a great atmosphere to network with other competitors. It is essential for the competitor to have passion for their profession, be responsible and dedicated enough to achieve their goal. Always train well prior to the competition.

The competitor should know and understand their product inside and out, irrespective of environmental changes. They should choose a winning combination that works for THEM and stick to it. R

Tracey Lee

Professional Beauty July 2016

Credit: Get in the picture

Tracey Owgan is Magnetic Nails’ head trainer for South Africa. She has been in the nail & beauty industry for 14 years and is currently w o r k i n g towards her International Expert Level Trainer Qualification with Magnetic Nail Design in Europe. Owgan has won numerous competitions both locally and internationally. Be prepared. In order to achieve a top placement you have to be well prepared in every aspect. Every competition has different Rules & Regulations so make sure you know exactly what they are. Attend competition training and know exactly what the judges are looking for. Select a reliable model with nice looking, well kept hands, long, thin nail beds and moisturised cuticles. On the day of the competition only have the product you will be using on the table neatly organised. Always use the same product you work with on a daily basis. In Tip Overlay & Sculpting

Tracey Owgan

online at www.probeauty.co.za

nails

The competitor needs to understand the rules and regulations of the competition. Your model is going to be your most important requirement and should have the same winning spirit you do. Know your model’s nails well and make sure you have practiced at least three times on her. Your model is the one that will be keeping you calm when you feel like the pressure is getting to you, so she has to be a strong support for you. The more you work with her, the more she will understand what you need from her during the competition. Make sure she is flexible physically and mentally in that when working on her hands she should not have stiff fingers and hands that make it difficult for you to manoeuvre, mentally in that she may need to give you a pep talk during stressful times.

Ensure that your model has healthy, even skin, straight fingers, slim, long natural nail beds and ‘WOW’ hands! Create a model portfolio to ensure you have a back-up model for any unforeseen circumstances. A suitable coach is essential to your success, and is not necessarily a world champion. The perfect coach is someone who understands nails, competitions and judging and who can see your areas for improvement. Some of the best competitors are not necessarily the best coaches and vice versa. Take pictures of your work during training and after competitions to keep track of your progress and identify any areas for improvement. Be consistent in your work, remember you don’t need the deepest smile lines to win the competition, but you will need them all to look the same. Focus on your

timing and your own nails, don’t pay attention to what other competitors are doing. Speak to the judges after the competition to understand what went well and where to improve.

Professional Beauty 2016 National Nail Competition Categories

Evelyn Jansen van Vuuren Evelyn Jansen van Vuuren has been a nail professional in the industry for 24 years; she started off her career in 1991 and did her training with Dream Nails and now owns her own nail salon. She has taken part in a number of competitions both locally and internationally and has gone on to win many titles. You should never give up in pursuing your goals. Be determined, persevere and put every effort into achieving what you set out to. I encourage every nail professional to take the plunge to compete – you have nothing to loose and everything to gain.

• Mixed Media Nail Art – Theme: ‘Alice Through The Looking Glass’ (any form and combination of freehand, airbrush, 3D nail art and nail art medium may be used) • Gel Polish Nail Art – Theme: Autumn Winter pantone shades and trends • Gel Polish Manicure – (One hand French, one hand red) • Novice category – All systems (One hand polished French, on hand red) • Tip Overlay Liquid & Powder Intermediate level (One hand French) • Tip Overlay Gel Intermediate level – (One hand French, one hand red) • Sculpting Intermediate level– All systems (One hand French, one hand red polish) • Masters Sculpting Challenge – The Nail technician may use any nail enhancement system, the enhancements can be any shape and length (One hand French product application, one hand custom colour design)

For further information and to enter the Professional Beauty 2016 Nail Competition, email competition director, Sonette van Rensburg, at sonettevr@gmail.com or log onto www.probeauty.co.za.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 27 years. She trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. Email: sonettevr@gmail.com

Professional Beauty July 2016

Credit: Get in the picture

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Advanced Therapist and Medical Aesthetic Seminar Book your place for only R50.00 per session FIVE SESSIONS@ 1h30 each Total Education Hours: 7h30

This programme is aimed at therapists who want to expand their knowledge and keep abreast of new technologies in advanced aesthetic treatments and industry trends. Programme and speakers are subject to change

Sunday, 28 August Evolution of the Industry 10:30 – 12:00 With many therapists working in doctors’ practices and skincare treatments becoming more advanced and in some cases more higher risk than ever before, what are the rules and how does the skincare therapist keep their identity? Panel discussion

• The importance of skincare therapists and the role they play in a medical aesthetic practice Doctor’s perspective.

Dr Anushka Reddy

• The role of a skincare therapist and the importance of continued learning and the importance of remembering our identity Therapist’s perspective – Helene Bramwell (past president CIDESCO) & Tracy Chambers (past president SAAHSP)

• “Therapists and doctors working together: what does the law say and ultimately who takes responsibility if things should go wrong?” Ulundi Behrtel (Legal expert)

The importance of correct skin analysis and the role it plays in remedial skin care 13:30 – 15:00 • Analysis of the skin through the use of modern diagnostic tools, including an interactive demonstration. Christina Bowman

• Recognising skin lesions: Which blemishes can somatologists treat? Janine Thomson

• The ancient art of Chinese Facial Diagnosis and how it can assist with modern day skin analysis. Charlene Weidner

Hot Topics in Anti-Ageing 15:30 – 17:00 • Hormone balance and healthy ageing. Dr Tharique Bux

• Anti-ageing Medication – Metformin/ Glucophage Metformin is a cheap mass produced anti diabetic pill that suddenly has the medical world excited with its proposed ability to extend lifespan (health span) to a good 120 years. Dr Janine Oliver

• Aesthetic wound healing and scar management applications after invasive procedures and treatments. Dr Judey Pretorius

Monday, 29 August Cosmeceuticals and Treatments 10:30 – 12:00 • Polypeptides and Aesthetics – the perfect partnership. Dr Robert Gobac

• The Role of Probiotics in Antiageing Skincare. Trevor Steyn

• Cupping - the latest treatment in wrinkle reversal. Dr Kateryna Tsvietkova (demo)

Areas of Speciality 13:30 - 15:00 • The return of the electrologist – why this speciality has returned and how the technology has changed. Tzvia Hermann

• Laser - drawing the line between beauty, aesthetics, & medical. Mazanne van Staden

• Tattoo removal – what is available and how effective is it? Suzanne Albertinger

As part of:

Date: 28 & 29 August 2016 Venue: Gallagher Convention Centre

JOHANNESBURG

28 & 29 AUGUST 2016

Opening Times: Sunday 10h00 – 17h00 Monday 10h00 – 16h00

medical aesthetics

Most popular treatments for African skin There is an old adage that says: ‘Black don’t crack’, and one only has to look at the likes of supermodel Iman and Jada Pinkett Smith’s mother, Adrienne Banfield-Jones, to believe that, writes Dr Lerato Masemola.

here is scientific proof to a certain extent to back up the ‘Black don’t crack’ theory. Recently, skincare company Olay and Harvard Medical School did a study (initiated in 2012 and including women in their 20s to 70s) that proved that the ageing process is about 10 years slower in African skin compared to other ethnicities (ie. Caucasian, Hispanic and Asian). Dermatologists have classified skin into six types (Fitzpatrick Scale, circa 1975) according to how the skin reacts to ultraviolet (UV) light. Type I would be very fair skin, which burns easily in the sun, while Type VI is very dark skin that rarely burns (may darken or tan slightly). Types II to V are somewhere in between the two extremes. Sun exposure is responsible for most (up to 90%) of skin damage and age-related changes. The mistake made by a lot of (African) women with skin types 4 to 6 on the Fitzpatrick Scale is that they believe that their dark skin protects them in every respect against the effects of the sun. This is not only false but also dangerous, as it makes them vulnerable to skin cancers (melanoma), which may go undiagnosed and therefore untreated for a long time. Yes, darker skin may not necessarily show wrinkles as

Professional Beauty July 2016

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medical aesthetics

59 The mistake made by a lot of (African) women with skin types 4 to 6 on the Fitzpatrick Scale is that they believe that their dark skin protects them in every respect against the effects of the sun. quickly and as much as fairer skin, but the higher melanin concentration makes it more prone to pigmentation problems and, where there is scarring, it is more visible. These are the common presenting and treated problems for dark-skinned patients in my practice.

Treatment options Various treatment options are available to address pigmentation and scarring, the commonest being change of skincare routine and products used. This is often done along with careful use of a Tretinoin cream or Hydroquinone cream or a mixture, carefully measured by a compounding pharmacy, and prescribed with special instructions for a specified period of time to

avoid overuse/abuse and further complications. I cannot stress enough that this must be done under qualified medical advice and monitoring and not by just buying products over the counter indiscriminately. Another common treatment modality for scarring and pigmentation is chem-exfoliation, commonly known as chemical peels. A series of light or superficial peels may be done for minor problems and good results can be achieved (typically six treatments are necessary for visible and long lasting results). However, for more severe pigmentation problems, a deeper peel may be necessary. A deep peel needs time to prepare the

skin to maximise results and avoid complications such as depigmentation (hypo-pigmentation, leaving pale spots or patches of skin) or further pigmentation due to irritation of the melanocytes (PIH â&#x20AC;&#x201C; post inflammatory hyperpigmentation). Preparation time is typically six to 10 weeks, the longer the better. Once the skin is ready, the deep peel can be done. It is important to note that, if the skin is prepared properly with pre-peel, and the peel is done well and post-peel care is also done properly, one deep peel may be all that is needed to take care of pigmentation and scarring, while rejuvenating the skin for a more youthful look at the same time.

Injectables I find that more and more patients are becoming open to muscle relaxation. With botulinum toxin injections for deep wrinkles of the forehead and around the eyes, R

medical aesthetics

60 It is in everyone’s best interest to practise good skincare to prevent early ageing. Minimally invasive

The following basic tips apply to ALL skin types: Hydration is very important. Drink enough water, two to three litres per day Wear broad spectrum sunscreen (covers both UVA and UVB rays) of at least SPF 30 Apply sunscreen before going outdoors and re-apply every two hours when outdoors, more often if swimming or sweating Wear a hat and other protective clothing Stay out of the sun during peak times (10h00 to 15h00) Stop smoking and avoid second-hand smoke Stress management is also important. Chronic stress leads to increased free radicals in the body, which can ultimately thin the skin Exercise benefits the body as a whole, the skin included Beauty sleep is not a myth. Get plenty of sleep (six to eight hours a day) and give your skin a chance to repair damage done during the day Eat healthily. Incorporating vitamin C, D, E and minerals like Zinc will do your skin some good Avoid excessive alcohol and caffeine intake

but not so much to dermal fillers. Injections can be done in conjunction with peels and micro-needling to achieve an overall younger and glowing look in those who are not keen on or do not need fillers. Micro-needling can be done alone to treat pigmentation and scarring, especially from acne, and to minimise early signs of ageing such as fine lines. Needling causes ‘small damage’ to the skin, resulting in the need to ‘heal the skin’. This starts collagen formation (plumps up the skin, reduces lines) and also lifts off the top skin layer (skin dries up and peels away) and therefore lightening pigmentation among other benefits. Treatments are often combined to achieve best results. Apart from acne treatment, younger girls are opting for stretch mark treatments to minimise the intensity of this specific problem. Micro-needling is still a popular and effective treatment for this, in conjunction with special products to apply at home in between needling treatments.

Professional Beauty July 2016

A variety of minimally invasive treatments are now available for safe use on darker skins. and different practices may offer one to multiple treatments, which can be recommended as per the needs of the client. Other treatments that are suitable for darker skins that are not mentioned above are dermal abrasions, laser hair removal, laser skin treatments, and LED light therapy. Most of the treatments mentioned will address the common problem, which is pigmentation. Race aside: there are numerous factors that contribute to the ageing process of the skin. As time passes, the body produces less collagen and elastin. This leads to loss of volume and elasticity, hence fine lines and wrinkles. With sun exposure and gravity, the skin sags as well. No skin type is immune to sun damage. Lifestyle choices play an important role. A good balanced diet and drinking lots of water goes a long way. Smoking accelerates age-related changes to the skin by causing it to lose its elasticity, which results in sagging. PB

Dr Lerato Masemola qualified as a medical doctor in 2002. She is a successful general practitioner with a special interest in aesthetics. Her practice, Thari Health, is based in Boskruin, Randburg. She has written for numerous publications on health-related and aesthetic topics of interest and she was on the panel of experts for the Doctors Orders TV show.

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product news

In the market

Our round-up of newly launched products and treatments.

Active actives

Loads of lift

The Nimue-SRC treatment system is scientifically formulated with a specific combination and concentration of acids to achieve desired results, followed by the Neutraliser Plus concept, which slows down the skin’s pH normalisation, while replacing bio lipids to increase repair of the skin’s barrier.

Phytomer’s Structuriste Firming Lift Cream is a 360-degree biotechnological formula with unprecedented properties that restructure the skin’s architecture. This ultra-rich formula tackles the visible signs of skin-slackening: loss of elasticity, lack of density and sagging facial contours. 011 486 4904

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The first range from the Anesi Lab Institute, Cellular 3, is the cosmeceutical response for visible and long-lasting results for the three proven causes of skin ageing – glycation, oxidative stress and DNA damage. Cellular 3 includes Renewal Cream, Glycolic Peel and 3GF Cellular Booster.

The fast-acting collagen boosting ingredients (ChroNOline) in the Hannon Collagen Smoothing Serum ensure a younger and more rested appearance. Fine lines are reduced by 29% in 28 days. ChroNOline is a lipopeptide composed of four amino acids linked to a lipid (caproic acid). 011 608 4065

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Professional Beauty July 2016

product news

Finished look

Ample ampoule

Babor Ampoule Concentrates Active Night Fluid boosts the skin’s regenerative process as you sleep. An extract of black agaie regenerates the dermis, while black truffle extract additionally strengthens natural collagen production and remodels facial contours. Black willow extract increases cell regeneration and thus skin renewal. 011 467 0110

Guinot’s Hydra Finish tinted moisturiser combines long lasting hydration with a radiant and even complexion. It contains mallow extract, which has exceptional hydrating and emollient properties, as well as an SPF 15. The encapsulated pigments only blend with the cream during application, thus keeping the moisturising agents intact. 011 305 1600

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saahsp

64 South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals

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Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

Why should beauty industry professionals join SAAHSP? There are professional organisations in every field, but are the yearly dues worth it to join up and become a member? The short answer most often is yes.

ou may have recently graduated, or you may have been in the skincare industry for many years, but if you are interested in furthering your career, updating your knowledge, or looking for ways to expand your interests, joining SAAHSP is a good start. SAAHSP is a synergistic group, meaning that the effect of a collective of people is greater than just one person. Creating a professional relationship is important, and becoming a member allows you to have help and support in reaching your professional goals. SAAHSP professional body offers you professional designations. In addition, SAAHSP has a number of events throughout the year that allows you to connect with fellow therapists.

Career resources Another important reason to consider SAAHSP membership is to take advantage of career resources. Recommended training schools are listed on the SHAASP database, as well as companies offering SAAHSP approved post-graduate training and CPD points. Via the SAAHSP website you can buy and sell items, post job vacancies, get news or post your own interesting news. And donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget, listing your association membership on your CV will impress current or future employers as it shows that you are dedicated to staying connected in your profession. Networking is an opportunity for you to mingle with others in your field. These relationships will be a rich, ongoing source of inspiration and ideas. PB

Professional Beauty July 2016

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