July 2017
www.probeauty.co.za
Academic pursuits
Teaching beauty
Source of energy Laser, IPL and RF
Ahead of the game Nail competition prep
measuringup Key Pe r fo r m a n c e I n d i c a to r s i n t h e s a l o n
TWINCARE
I N T E R N A T I O N A L
19
In this issue...
52
57
Regulars
Spa Focus
Nails
5 Industry news
26 Cool strategies for the cold months
52 Top competition tips
Local and international news
46 Crowning glory
What’s hot and happening in the hair industry
61 Product news
All the latest launches
64 SAAHSP
The latest news from SAAHSP
Business
How to lure clients into the spa during winter
30 Picture perfect
Award-winning advice
54 Nailing it!
Navigating the Professional Beauty Nail Competition
Carchele Beauty Spa revamps
Medical Aesthetics 57 HIGH on skin…
Health Ingredients Generation Homeostasis in skincare
Features 32 State of play
Tertiary education standards
34 In short supply
Skills shortages identified
12 Ask the Experts
35 Qualifying principles
All your questions answered
15 Insider
Tracking the industry with stats
16 How effective is your business?
Key Performance Indicators
18 Is there still something called ‘the season’?
Changing consumer trends
19 10 Golden social media rules
Marketing your business
21 Optimising employee engagement
Accreditation of training providers
36 The student factor
Today’s beauty therapy students
37 Thorough therapy
Focus on scrubs and exfoliators
40 Complex conditions
Treating rosacea, eczema and psoriasis
47 Energetic technology
Latest laser, IPL and RF technologies
Mobilising your staff
22 One decade and counting…
Case study – RalphChenelle Skin and Body Clinic
32
welcome
2
W
hen I was writing this welcome note, it seemed as if the world had gone crazy. The catastrophic storm and fires in the Cape, the terrifying spike in gender-based violence, the deteriorating political situation in South Africa and the plunging economy are enough to make you run away screaming. Further afield, the horrific terrorist attacks in the UK coupled with the fall-out from an unsettling election, the escalating horrors of the Syrian war, the threatening mien of Russia and North Korea, and the on-going saga of the most bizarre soap opera in history, namely the Trump Presidency, make you want to pull your hair out. It’s a mad, mad, mad world out there, resulting in a whole lot of stress. However, is it possible that this state of extreme stress could result in a welcome influx of guests in our salons and spas? After all, what better way to alleviate stress than having a facial, or massage, or hydro treatment, or mani/pedi? Or, maybe all of this stress will result in an increase in medical aesthetics treatments. An intriguing article by Jenna Rosenstein in a recent issue of Harper’s Bazaar, noted a major spike in botox treatments in the US, ever since Donald Trump won the election. The article implies that Americans have been so traumatised by the election result that their frown lines have increased, hence the rush for botox treatments. Either way, this issue of Professional Beauty provides some interesting reads, on topics as varied as KPIs (Key Performance Indicators), to ‘the season’, to social media, to employee engagement, to tertiary education for the beauty industry, to the latest technologies in lasers, IPLs (Intense Pulsed Light) and radiofrequency (RF) devices. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
July 2017
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Academic pursuits
Teaching beauty
Source of energy Laser, IPL and RF
Ahead of the game
On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com
Nail competition prep
measuringup
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Professional Beauty July 2017
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news
5
News All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.
Sorbet still in acquisition talks
A
t the time of going to print, the Sorbet Group of franchised beauty salons and dry bars was still in the final throes of negotiating a deal with Long4Life, the new JSE-listed investment holding company run by Brian Joffe and Kevin Hedderwick. Professional Beauty contacted Sorbet founder, Ian Fuhr, for an update on the situation. He responded: “Unfortunately, I am not yet in a position to disclose any further information. I will be happy to do so, and to give you my reasons for selling, when the deal is signed and finalised, which will hopefully be before the end of July.” Fuhr confirmed that, contrary to rumours, he is not aware of a single Sorbet salon that is planning to close. “There are some salons where the owners wish to sell, but this does not have anything to do with the
acquisition. In a mature franchise system you will always find owners who sell their businesses to other franchisees for a variety of reasons. We are still receiving about eight new franchise applications per day.” He further noted that he has no plans to move to the UK, where he is about to open a fifth Sorbet store. “I currently visit there every two to three months to assist with the running of the business but, in fact, my time in London will probably reduce slightly if and when the Long4Life deal is completed. Should the deal go ahead, the entire Sorbet management team, including myself, will be committed to stay on and help build a large beauty conglomerate in South Africa under the Long4Life/Sorbet umbrella. We would all be signing service agreements with the new company to ensure the continuity of the business.” Ian Fuhr
Economic downturn affects industry The negative effects of the recent downgrading of South Africa’s sovereign credit rating to Junk Status by three international ratings agencies are beginning to trickle down into the beauty industry. Some salons and spas are finding that ever since the downgrade, clients have become really budget conscious and stretching their regular once-amonth treatment to once every six weeks. Clients are no longer keen to book for courses of treatments, with a reduction in group bookings as well. Says Steven Meyer, co-owner of Viso Bello in Sandton: “For small
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businesses like us, anything that adversely affects the economy is a problem, as we have fixed overheads that are increasing above the rate of inflation. The downgrade is beginning to take its toll as we’ve heard of a number of salons either closing down or wanting to be sold. Unfortunately I believe there will be more as time goes by.” Debbie Merdjan of the Camelot Group of Companies and Marine Spa Distributors has a more positive outlook. ‘My advice is – hang in there and don’t panic. The downgrading to Junk Status has affected my
businesses only minimally, specifically as they haven’t downgraded local bonds, which contribute 90% of foreign investments to bonds overall. “The Rand depreciation has been contained and the overall effect on business sentiment has been negative, however, maybe our economy is more resilient than we think. I believe we need to focus on what we are good at – increasing our income, protecting our jobs and honing in on our skills. After all, our clients still need to de-stress, maintain wellness and look after their skin.”
Professional Beauty July 2017
news
6
Grooma ‘mobilises’ therapists
T
herapists and salons are showing great interest in Grooma, a new grooming and beauty services app that brings the therapist to the customer, according to trend specialist and entrepreneur, John Sanei. “We already have 90 therapists who have signed onto Grooma,” says Sanei, who co-founded Grooma with Shantelle Booysen, brand owner of Elim Spa products. “Historically, mobile therapists listed on a website but today’s need for convenience is driving us to offer this service via an app. “Grooma brings the therapist and treatment to wherever you want it, be it the house, office, or hen party, for example, whenever you require. Consumers often don’t want to go to the bother of having to get into their car, drive through traffic, find safe parking, pay for parking, etc. just to have a beauty treatment.” Although Grooma is still in its beta phase and testing the market in Cape Town, it is signing therapists around
News in brief
South Africa, with the Grooma App currently available on Apple in 14 countries around the globe. Sanei stressed that Grooma is not only for mobile therapists. “Grooma provides the opportunity for every salon to offer a takeaway service. I believe it’s ideal for salons that are looking for a new revenue stream.” Consumers can download the Grooma app from the Apple App Store, with the Android App available on Google Play, and are encouraged to sign up via Facebook so that Grooma has a tracking record. Sanei’s team is currently building up its army of Grooma therapists. Any therapist wanting to sign up for Grooma must complete an online form and their qualifications and quality of work is then evaluated by a vetting team. Payment of Grooma therapists works on a sliding scale; Groomas pay between 10% and 18% commission, depending on how many treatments they do. The more treatments that a Grooma does, the less commission they pay.
Harrod nominated for SACBW award
■ BTL wins award: The BTL Vanquish ME has won the Elle Magazine 2017 Beauty Treat List Award for Most Effortless Fat Buster.
■ Maskscara expands: Indicating its rapid growth, Maskscara has opened depots in Port Elizabeth and Claremont, with plans to expand into Gauteng East Rand, West Rand and Pretoria later this year.
■ First Reboost in Africa: Prominenti Salon in the East Rand is the first on the African continent to own an Alma Beauty Reboost, a complete portable facial rejuvenation device for skin imperfections, pigmentation, stretch-marks, acne and deep skin hydration.
■ Epi-max triumphs: The Baby & Junior product range from South African emollient cream brand, Epi-max, was voted Product of the Year 2017 in the Baby Care Category in a survey of 5,000 people by Nielsen for product innovation.
SalonCare owner Amanda Harrod is a finalist in the SACBW (South African Council for Businesswomen) Business Woman of the Year Competition. All finalists are given three months to raise funds towards iDUC, a support group for rape survivors. The winner and runners up will be chosen at a gala event on 16 September in Centurion. “I believe the fact that I took over the SalonCare business on my own just over a year ago but have made such significant growth in employment creation and turnover, played a huge part in my being nominated. You must prove that you have the skills to run a business successfully, contribute towards the community and juggle your home life, which I do as a single mom,” explains Harrod.
Professional Beauty July 2017
■ AMS Enterprises change of ownership: Robin Reibstein has sold the business to her daughter, Sue Vermeer, and son in law, Pieter Vermeer, with effect from 8 May 2017. The company’s name has changed from AMS Enterprises to AMSCO (PTY) LTD Trading as AMS Enterprises.
■ Graftobian sponsors Miss Pretoria: Professional make-up brand Graftobian sponsored a R2,000 voucher for make-up, as well as a R3,500 cosmetic hamper for the Miss Pretoria winner. All finalists (including Miss Photogenic, Miss Personality and Miss Physique) received a 30% discount voucher for make-up, as well as a hamper of cosmetics to the value of R2,000.
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news
9
Twincare’s Knysna disaster relief drive
I
n conjunction with Twincare Professional Outlet (TPO) George, Twincare International has been donating products to the victims of the devastating fires in Knysna and Plettenberg Bay, and is involved in raising funds for the cause. Neal Ellis, who owns TPO George together with hairdresser Marius De Hart, describes the devastation as being like a war zone.
“Some of our clients have lost everything. We have been dropping off shampoos, conditioners and styling aids to disaster victims and have sent some of our affected clients hairdressing products, soaps, toilet paper, etc,” he says. TPO George donated a portion of all Paul Mitchell and Biosense sales in June to the disaster relief fund. In a video posted on Twincare
International’s Facebook page, CEO Stav Dimitriadis called for support for the victims. “I think it’s our responsibility – all of us – to try and help the area recover. We are inviting anyone in the area to help and drop off financial contributions or products at TPO George, who will take it to the official disaster relief drop off points,” he stated.
SA doctors create skincare range Dr Genevieve Marks and Dr Alistair Clark of the Sandton Aesthetic Institute (SAI) have developed their own cosmeceutical range, SAI Skin Care. Says Clark: “The range is already in Zambia and we are looking for aesthetic doctors, aestheticians and professional salons throughout South Africa, Namibia and Zimbabwe. Because the SAI products are highly active, we will distribute only through skin care experts. Our online shop conducts a skin assessment prior to sale to first time clients,” says Clark. SAI Skin Care was developed over 18 months, with additional input from a dermatologist, a plastic surgeon, a chemist, a pharmacist and a manufacturing expert. According to Clark, SAI clients were always asking for products
specific to their skin type and their needs. “We saw a gap in the market in that we could provide a better, top class formulation, using the best available ingredients, at a fraction of the retail prices out there. This is because we do not have exorbitant marketing costs, advertising expenses, or distributor mark-ups. We also saw a need for a results-driven range of top quality hydroxyl-acid cleansers specific to skin type,” he explains. SAI ingredients are sourced in America and Japan; a local laboratory and expert compounder then mix and bottle the products locally. Ingredients are tested at source on human volunteers only. All products are free of parabens and SLS (Sodium Laurel Sulphate).
Genevieve Marks and Alistair Clark
Radiant celebrates 13 years On 4 May, Radiant Healthcare, the distributor of medical aesthetics devices from brands such as Syneron, Cocoon, GSD and Ecleris, celebrated its 13th birthday. Says Radiant Healthcare’s Jacques Pretorius. “I believe that the fact that we have stayed in business for 13 years proves our commitment to the medical aesthetics industry. Radiant Healthcare has grown in strength, year after year, expanding from just two people and a single distributor agency
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to nine people and six distributor agencies. We strive to make a difference in our clients’ businesses and support them in any way possible.”
Jacques Pretorius at the birthday party
Professional Beauty July 2017
news
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SA Beauty Distributors expands
A
move to larger premises, the taking on of the Kinetics nail brand and the addition of two new staff members represents a significant expansion for SA Beauty Distributors, now located at Unit S4 in Spearhead Business Park in Cape Town’s Montague Drive. “We are also in the process of taking on the distribution of a facial brand and looking for a brand ambassador for the Durban area,”
says Helena Rodrigues, Training & Marketing director at SA Beauty Distributors. The new office is 380 square metres in size and boasts more extensive training facilities, boardroom, warehouse and spacious showroom.
Nature Republic comes to SA The best-selling 92% Aloe Vera Soothing and Moisturizing Gel from Nature Republic is now available in South Africa exclusively from Lights Up Group, the sole distributor for the brand in South Africa and several Sub Saharan countries. Says Lights Up Group CEO, Marius Lotz: “We make use of a team of specialists that study upcoming brands that cannot be found in our country. Their research indicated
that the 92% Aloe Vera Moisturizing & Soothing Gel is a leading product and one of the fastest selling single products in the world. Nature Republic sells one pot of the product every second globally and has sold 80 million units in the last four years.” Lotz notes that as a company, Nature Republic has a great deal of development scope that boasts more than 2000 SKUs (Stock Keeping Units) in the complete range, as can be found
in more than their 2,000 boutiques in prominent retail positions. He continues: “We are currently investigating possibilities to work with a central distributor/retailer that will deliver not only to the retail sector, but also distribute to independent salons, spas or medical aesthetics practices.” Lights Up Group anticipates rolling out more products in the Nature Republic range as from September 2017. (See page 61)
TheraVine appoints new NZ distributor South African brand TheraVine Skin and Body Care will now be distributed in New Zealand by Ilse Vermeulen of Youth Beauty. “TheraVine was previously distributed in New Zealand by Thera Spa Pacific, but due the owner’s growing family commitments, she decided to give up the distribution,” explains
Professional Beauty July 2017
Hilde-Mari Kohrs, sales and marketing coordinator/brand representative of L.S Enterprises, owner of TheraVine. She adds: “With an extensive network of contacts and relationships worldwide, Ilse Vermeulen is always on the lookout for the latest and most advanced beauty solutions to introduce to her stockists in New Zealand. We
soon realised after discussions that our mission and vision aligned, as both companies are inspired by finding new solutions to problems our stockists experience in their businesses. To achieve this vision we believe in building partnerships with our stockists that reach far deeper than just the delivery of equipment and products.”
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business tips
12
Ask the experts
Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
How can I prevent follicilitis (inflamed follicles) from occurring after waxing?
F
olliculitis is a skin condition in which hair follicles become inflamed by bacterial or fungal infection. A follicle is the part of the skin that grows hair by packing cells together. Attached to the follicle is a sebaceous gland that may cause problems when a therapist uses the wrong type of wax (i.e. strip wax on sensitive areas), or doesn't prepare the skin with a pre base (antiseptic cleaner) and remove residue with a proper post epilation lotion (to soothe and protect). On sensitive areas a hot wax or film wax must be used. After hair removal with the appropriate product and procedure, a client prone to folliculitis must be advised to use a hair inhibitor with plant extracts like papaya, milfoil, arnica, ivy, marigold, or common nettle extract. Such an inhibitor is decongestive and soothing and should be used immediately after waxing and for a week afterwards on clean skin when the pores are open. After an in salon treatment a high frequency current can be used as a bactericide on the waxed area. A perfect product for salons to offer for retail is one containing acetylsalicylic acid, which works as a keratolitic and helps the hair to reach the skin surface, while neutrilising bacteria that might cause infection. It is antinflammatory and regenerating. At all times during a wax process, the therapist's hands must be sanitised and the equipment hygienically cleaned with a citric cleaner. For uncomplicated superficial folliculitis, use of anti-bacterial soaps and good handwashing techniques may be all that is required. For more severe problems, an antibiotic or antifungal medication might be prescribed. Adri Maritz is area manager and trainer at Smart Buy/ Depilève. She has 20 years of experience in the industry. E-mail her on adri.maritz3@gmail.com.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty July 2017
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business tips
13 How can I manage the stress levels of my staff?
M
anage your own stress as owner or manager first, then ensure a thriving environment in the salon by adhering to the following tips. Firstly, know your team. Find out what motivates them, whether it be money, time off, products, treatments, vouchers for certain shops, etc. and connect this to growth incentives. Secondly, create an environment in which your staff can flourish, with lockers for belongings and an area where they can eat their lunch and relax. Be fair and maintain a disciplined, yet fun working environment. Find out their ‘love language’, be it words of affirmation or receiving gifts, etc. so as to customise your communications with each staff member. Staff will be energised by doing what is important to them. Determine where their interests lie and where the business is going so that you can create opportunities for growth for both business and employee. It is important to set goals for your staff and for you to check where your employees are in terms of performance.
Fun factor We need to balance hard work and commitment with fun and creativity in order to be sustainable. An outing, or fun activity, needs to be done every two or three months. The more intense the pace at your spa/ salon, the more frequently these are suggested, so pre-book dates out for the year. It can be done during work or afterwards. Do a cooking class together, go to a comedy show together or go ten pin bowling. Write down your core values and make them alive. For example: Unity, Respect, Passion, Excellence, Accountability, Integrity, Curiosity, Transparency, Sense of Humour, etc. Each salon/spa must know their culture and thoroughly brief
possible new employees to start aligning to this culture as it is part of the signature of the business. Only once the team is balanced and in the groove, a more flowing and less stressful environment can be fostered.
Flexibility It works well to have a ‘give-and-take’ way of working with your team. Today they may agree to work overtime for an important client and next week you may allow them to leave early to get to the bank or watch their child’s sport game. This flexibility, when managed well, enhances both life and work.
Healthy attitude Reward your team with a gym membership close-by and go together over lunch or before or after work, three to five times per week. Do a night run/walk after work on a nearby park. Encourage your staff to eat healthily and drink enough water daily. Studies have linked Vitamin B with good mental health, while omega-3 may help reduce symptoms of depression and anxiety. Wholegrain carbs help regulate levels of serotonin, the ‘feel good’ neurotransmitter that helps us remain calm. In short, eating right ranks high on the list of stress-busting activities. Separate work and home. Teach your team to leave home at home when at work, and work at work when at home. Do, however, have an open door policy for those times they just need a ‘mother’ to unburden to, or some words of wisdom.
Equip therapists to manage their column This refers to the therapist’s column in the reservation book or software
system for each eight-hour shift of work. Therapists need to see this as their own business. If one therapist’s column in a salon/spa is not profitable it can affect the profitability of the business. Micromanaging under-performers causes them, as well as you, stress. Therefore, have tools in place and a coach (or training) to assist your team to have sufficient business skills to manage their own column and have a good salary at the end of the month. They’d have to look at their re-bookings month to month; retail ratio; planning per day, week and month to reach targets; manage their targets daily and weekly to stay on track; use tools given to get new clients; upgrade and add treatments on to the original docket; referrals; etc. PB Helena Van Der Vyver of 1ne s.p.a has been a business coach for salons and spas for the past three years. She has 24 years of experience in the industry, ranging from therapist to operations manager for over eight spas. E-mail her on info@1nespa.co.za
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za
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Professional Beauty July 2017
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business tips
15
Insider
Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in April 2017.
Insider Spa
Surprisingly, treatment business overall at spas during April 2017 was down as compared to the same time last year, despite the fact that some of you reported that April is usually the busiest month in terms of return guests, and that the public holidays and school holidays helped to draw in guests. One spa group attributed its drop in treatment business to the bad economy. The average treatment room occupancy of those spas polled was 65%, but it’s worth noting that several spas reported extremely high occupancy during weekends, offset by low occupancy during the week. Retail sales took a bit of a knock as compared to April 2016, despite the fact that some spas did not even have a price increase this year. It seems that clients are wanting to economise when it comes to purchases. As to how spas go about recruiting new staff, some of you advertise internally through the HR department, others use recruitment agencies and your own websites, as well as Gumtree and social media. Regarding the employment of students, one spa only employs students in their final year of study, others employ AVERAGE TREATMENT students over busy periods so that ROOM they can work the practical hours OCCUPANCY required for qualifications. One spa has stopped this practice as it has found that students are not interested in learning about spa operations.
65
%
Insider Salon
April 2017 was not a good month for most salons as South Africa’s current Junk Status continues to adversely affect the economy. Only 33% of salons said treatment business had increased as compared to the same time last year. Average room treatment business in April was polled to an above average 62%, which increased compared to March this year. Retail business was extremely low, with 96% of you said reporting a decrease. We asked how you go about recruiting new staff and interestingly, some of you rely on word of mouth to find new employees. Other salons use AVERAGE TREATMENT social media platforms such ROOM as Facebook to advertise OCCUPANCY vacancies. We also asked whether or not you employ students for limited periods of time and half of the salons polled do. PB
62%
The month in numbers
40
% BETTER
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN APRIL 2017 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2016?
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN APRIL 2017 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2016?
0
60
31
% BETTER
10
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN APRIL 2017 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2016?
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2
% SAME
% SAME
% WORSE
2
% BETTER
% SAME
59
% WORSE
33
% BETTER
96
% WORSE
17
% SAME
50
% WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN APRIL 2017 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2016?
Professional Beauty July 2017
business tips
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How effective is your business? No business should be operating without KPIs (Key Performance Indicators) as the absence thereof could result in failure to identify and correct erratic behaviours in their operations, writes Francisco Garcia.
W
hat gets measured gets done, or so they say, and what gets measured gets analysed. However, when it comes to actually defining KPIs, you could drive yourself crazy because there are so many of them. You need to be very clever in selecting those that will speak directly to your business needs and the information you want to obtain. And, t h e y need The last thing t o
you want to do is overcomplicate things and have ‘analysis paralysis’, where you over analyse every bit of information to the point that it obstructs you.
Professional Beauty July 2017
relate directly to the type of analysis you want to extract from them – be it a measurement of the overall performance of the business (which your manager should be responsible for), or therapists, or front desk etc. The last thing you want to do is overcomplicate things and have ‘analysis paralysis’, where you over analyse every bit of information to the point that it obstructs you. Once your KPIs are in place, you have to monitor them, analyse them and measure them daily so as to apply the ideal corrective measures to that aspect of your business that your KPI is indicating is not performing at an optimal level.
Simple but powerful From a spa business perspective, I suggest implementing these simple yet very powerful KPIs:
• Budget – no business should be without a budget. • Forecast report – a very helpful indicator if the forecast exercise is done accurately. • Budget vs forecast vs actuals. • Average spend per client on services and on retail combined so that you can push for these figures to improve and to give exact figures to your teams as specific and measurable targets. • Retail % to retail turnover – one of the most important KPIs in a spa business. • Therapist occupancy % ratio. • Treatment room occupancy % ratio. • Number of guests checked in at the spa and the ratio between new clients and returning clients. • Number of units sold per month. • Treatment sales mix. • Running costs per minute.
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business tips
17 • Cost of sales for spa treatments set at a certain %. • P&L (Profit & Loss). • Overall guest feedback. In my opinion these KPIs should be monitored by the spa manager, or the person responsible for the overall spa operation, as these are the only people who can manage them daily, weekly and monthly to interpret the results and apply corrective measures to rectify any shortcomings.
KPIs for therapists I would establish basic KPIs for your therapists that you can monitor easily, such as the following: • Retail and services turnover target vs. actual: you can give therapists a monthly retail and services turnover target but monitor it on a daily basis. This is done by breaking the target down into a smaller daily figure so as to evaluate the performance and relation between their target figure vs their daily actual figure. These targets should speak directly to the total turnover to be achieved as per your budget and in relation to the number of therapists employed in the business. • Retail % to total turnover: this indicates how much money they make on retail sales in relation to the total turnover that they bring in. Once you have set your business minimum retail % to total turnover in your budget, you can then measure your therapists individually on their performance against your budget. • Number of clients seen for the month split between regular and new clients. • Number and type of services performed per therapist per month. • Number and type of retail items
sold per therapist per month. • Number of re-bookings for the month. • Number of upsells for the month. • Positive/Negative Feedback received. • Number of hours and type of training attended for the month.
Front desk KPIs With regards to the front desk KPIs I would suggest the following: • Number of promotions sold.
• Number of upsells and add-ons. • Number of re-bookings. • Number of phone calls turned into bookings so you can get a proper conversion rate. • Number of treatment hours unsold/ sold. • Maximising of turnover vs space available. Your KPIs should be displayed in easy to read reporting structures. With a dashboard approach you can actually have a proper understanding of how your business is doing and what areas you need to focus on that need improvement. Remember that it is never too late to establish KPIs and put them in place. PB Francisco Garcia is an independent spa operations consultant who was formerly chief operating officer for Amani Spas Group. During his career Garcia has managed the AP Grace Country House & Spa and AP Arabella Hotel & Spa, where he won numerous accolades. Email him on francaceres@hotmail.com
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Professional Beauty July 2017
business tips
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Is there still something called ‘the season’?
W
Lauren Gibson looks at consumer trends and how they are changing.
e have all started working on the next few months with one mindset – ‘the season’. I’m not really sure what that even means. And to be honest, it’s a rather dangerous mindset to have; a mindset where you openly give up, or find an excuse for your business to perform averagely instead of phenomenally. The strange thing is, this ‘season’ that everyone
speaks of seems to happen every year, yet I am horrified to see how business owners fail to plan around it and instead choose to plan to fail by blaming bad business results on ‘the season’. Yes, one can say that the number of feet walking into new businesses has started to slow down, and perhaps that consumer spend is down versus previous months. But is that really due to ‘the season’, or due to constraints such as the economy, limited disposable income and a decrease in allowances from husbands or parents? Interestingly enough, we had a generally impressive wage and/ or salary growth across the board in a variety of industries in South Africa this year and we will soon see families and consumers spending more than normal and saving where they can, which sounds like a bit of an oxymoron. Ironically in 2016’s ‘quieter season’, the economic trend worldwide showed a 6.6% growth in the health and beauty sector.
Clever planning What we should be doing is planning for these tough times when we do our business plans in August of the previous year. How can you leverage the brands in your business to support you in tough times? How can you excite your guests or consumers to want to come into your business and choose to spend with you
Professional Beauty July 2017
over this quieter period? And more importantly – how can you stop this trend of ‘the season’? Understanding consumer behaviour and what excites your consumers is a key question when planning a promotion or activation. You need to look at who you are targeting, which channels encourage engagement and how you can build even stronger relationships. Consumer control is a factor. If you hint to consumers that you suffer negative effects from a ‘season’, they won’t engage in your business. A brilliant example would be for a salon to offer a promotion for a body scrub and massage (typically considered a summer treatment) during the winter ‘season’. Do you know that a business that tried this was fully booked for four weeks? And it attracted 28% new clientele in the clients that booked. So, my challenge to you all is – change your mindset. Change your staff’s mindset. A ‘season’ doesn’t determine your business success and consumer offerings. Your business needs to innovate to keep up with the consumer demand – that’s the fun part! PB Lauren Gibson has worked for Dermalogica for four years, as an educator, sales brand consultant, and, more recently, the regional manager for Cape Town. Her passion lies in up-skilling people, seeing the potential in businesses and unlocking that potential. E-mail laureng@dermalogica.co.za
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
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10
Golden social media rules
If you are not using social media to market your business you are losing out on a huge market share, writes Ayesha Rajah.
“F
ifty-two-percent of marketers say Facebook is the most important social network they use to grow and market their business.” (V3B Blog) “In 2015 Facebook influenced 52% of consumers’ online and offline purchases.” (The Drum). Social media can really amplify the voice of your business message, so here’s how to get it working for you:
# 1 Emotional connection
Our industry is a feeltouch industry and this needs to be translated into your social media posts. Evoke emotion through the words and images that you select. Use real time images of your team and clients in therapy, or relaxing in your environment to get your fans to experience moments with you.
# 2 Engaging posts
It’s not just about the number of ‘likes’ you have on your social media pages anymore but, more importantly, the client connection you have through engagement. Are your posts talking to your audience? Are you using the right language, tone and approach for your audience? To engage your audience ask them what they want – a joke a week, tip of the day, competitions or polls, etc.
# 3 Happy faces
When posting images of events or your team ensure that you have smiling, happy faces. Take impromptu photos of people having fun.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
# 4 Limited hashtags
The overuse of hashtags can deter the message of your post, so limit hashtags to between three and five per post.
# 5 Call to action
Think about what you want to achieve with each post. You may want some posts to specifically target brand awareness, or you may want to evoke emotion by being funny, or give tips for your audience, but ultimately you want to encourage traffic into your business. Ensure that you have relevant website links in 50% of your posts.
# 6 Consistency
This is one of the key elements of building a strong and loyal online community. We would all like to be posting two to three times a day but it's mostly not possible. So rather consider the bare minimum you can commit to and stick with that, but you do need to post a minimum of three times a week to be effective on Facebook.
# 7 Original content
If the content is original it will ensure a better reach of your posts. Try to come up with your own quotes, jokes, pictures and captions.
# 8 High quality visuals
Take your original images in your environment. Be mindful of focus, lighting and surrounding details. Or, purchase stock images from sites like Shutterstock, Gettysburg etc.
# 9 Insights
Without data you have no idea which posts are working and which are not. Insights also show the level of engagement of each post, as well which time of posting is getting the better reach.
# 10 the process Streamline
Scheduling tools such as Hootsuite have been designed to save time and assist in streamlining the process for social media posting. PB Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and SkinDoctors. Email: ayesharajah@ai-importers.co.za
Professional Beauty July 2017
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Optimising employee engagement Any business is as good as its staff so it is therefore up to you, the owner of your spa, to train your staff perfectly, writes Debbie Merdjan.
I
f a customer walks through the door and is greeted by somebody who is warm, professional and friendly, then half the battle has been won. And if a staff member is really good at what they do, then the other half has been won too. By giving the best training, and keeping it regular and updated, you are going to get the best out of your staff. Incentivise your staff, motivate and inspire them. Be respectful, be polite, be nice to work for and more than anything, be a good example. If you talk to your staff and ensure they understand the core culture and vision of your spa, you will get the best out of them. Be clear about your mission statement. And then, to optimise results, always do the following:
Be clear If you want a successful operation, you need to be crystal clear about your expectations. There is nothing wrong with transparency. The more transparent you are, the better. Again, you do not have to be bossy, just communicative. Create a culture of trust within your team.
Be a good listener Being a good boss does not mean you have to be bossy. It means you need to talk but most importantly, listen. Encourage debate and discussion. Ask other people’s opinions. Ensure your staff feel comfortable talking to you. Respect the way they feel. And never rush into judgement.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Inspire You are the perfect mentor. Work hard and be enthusiastic. Inspire. Never keep your staff members down – if you see someone working hard, give them the opportunity to grow with you.
Be understanding
Be smart Talk to your staff. Communicate about what is expected of them and find out what their expectations are. Lead well and inspire. If they see you are enthusiastic, they too will be enthusiastic.
your staff members will be kind back. Say ‘please’, ‘thank you’, never instruct harshly, and frequently use phrases like ‘I appreciate…”
Incentivise People are working not for the love of work but for a salary. Make it worth their while. Reward staff members for great work. Share the profits if you can. Give days off if possible. Treat people well and reward them. They, in turn, will always reward you.
Respect Understand that a staff member may have a sick child or an ill mother. Learn about their lives; it helps to understand them. When you are kind,
If a staff member makes a mistake, explain to them where they went wrong. Create an atmosphere where your employee will willingly tell you about their mistakes too. Don’t punish! Understand, sort things out and move forward. And more than anything, ask them to deliver the best possible service. Encourage the ‘Wow!’ factor. Keep inspiring. Be enthusiastic. Remember that you went into business to make money and also to have fun. Don't lose sight of your goals. PB Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982, started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.
Professional Beauty July 2017
case study
22
One decade and counting… Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to RalphChenelle Skin and Body Clinic owner, Rozanne Pelser, about how she has managed to maintain ’10 beautiful years’ of her salon in a tough economic climate.
T
he unusually named skin and body clinic, RalphChenelle, situated within the NHC Health Centre Bryanston in Johannesburg, celebrated its 10 birthday on 28 April this year. Says RalphChenelle owner, Rozanne Pelser: “A lot of people come into this industry thinking that it’s easy. I started my business with a lot of passion and love for my clients and what we do, but had to quickly learn how to run a business and then adapt to the changes in both the industry and the economy over the last 10 years.” Pelser believes that the salon’s secret to success is that she and her team never lose focus of their clients. “We strive to give them our 5-star level of service every time, while still managing to have fun. Success is a mindset that combines business with our passion, as well as the joy of seeing the results for our clients and their skin.” That this strategy has clearly worked is reflected by the fact that many of
RalphChenelle’s clients have been with them since day one. Pelser continues: “These clients will only ever come to us. We even have clients who have moved overseas and still come back to us whenever they are home. One of the hardest things is having to say good bye to one of our wonderful clients when they move overseas.” To celebrate its 10th birthday, RalphChenelle held an event that was sponsored by Dermalogica offering face fit mini facials on the night. Pelser and her team celebrated with 80 of their VIP clients and gave away over R20,000 worth of prizes.
Consistency in service All new staff are personally trained by Pelser, herself an internationally qualified somatologist, to a standard called, ‘The RalphChenelle Way’. “Once they are at this level I can then feel confident that they are able to work with clients. But training is a continuous process for all therapists, even me. We are determined to provide
Rozanne Pelser and her team only the best in service excellence and innovation for our clients and all feedback is greatly appreciated and goes straight back into the therapists’ ongoing training,” explains Pelser.
Then and now The RalphChenelle of 10 years ago is very different to the business it is today. Pelser has always felt that it’s important to keep up with changes in the business and the industry, as treatments and trends come and go. “From our original small salon with an African spa theme, we got to the stage where we outgrew it. So we designed and built a new clinic with more rooms to accommodate the
Professional Beauty July 2017
online at www.probeauty.co.za
case study
23
growing team, while maximising the tranquil view over the gardens and water features outside, but kept our original brand to give continuity. “However, this year we took the opportunity of our 10 year celebrations to launch fresh new branding which is more modern, smart, clean and tranquil. We are a far more professional business than we were 10 years ago and our image needed to reflect that,” comments Pelser. The salon’s design was something that Pelser developed over time, from visiting spas both in Africa and around the world. She then worked with an interior design company to create a space that was welcoming, clean and modern. Treatment rooms are more reminiscent of a modern hotel than the ‘typical cluttered salon look’. RalphChenelle boasts four garden facing treatment rooms, as well as a deluxe couples’ suite. Pelser also had deluxe pedicure pods custom-made for the salon. “These give clients a cocoon, pod-like experience. While having your pedicure, the pod massages your back, your pedicure water changes colour and you have a coffee cup/ champagne holder and an iPad stand. It’s a glorius pedicure experience,” she says. Pelser employs three full-time therapists and she herself performs facials and peels for the salon’s celebrity clients on request. PB
Professional Beauty July 2017
JOHANNESBURG 3 & 4 SEPTEMBER 2017 GALLAGHER CONVENTION CENTRE Times are tough, salons are suffering. Professional Beauty we aim to give you the tools to keep going and build your business not just survive. In visiting the exhibition you will not only find over two hundred exhibitors with products and ideas to keep you ahead, we also have created our own fantastic initiative to help you progress even more. Attend our seminars you will be able to gain new skills and ideas to help you and your business survive the current climate.
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The spa convention will feature: The Sales Workshop A sales workshop to help you and your staff maximise every opportunity, from upselling to retail, sales will make the difference to your bottom line.
Focus on detail The client experience needs to be at its best, from booking the appointment, the welcome through to when they leave. Soft Skills are essential tools for all in your team to have in order to retain clients and give them the experience they deserve.
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3-4 September 2017 At Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand It’s all about the business……
spa focus
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Cool strategies for the cold months
Marisa Dimitriadis suggests some innovative strategies to lure clients into the spa during the chilly weather.
“T
he winter months are my worst months for business, turnover decreases and the staff sometimes seem demotivated.” “I am especially stressed for this winter due to the economic situation in the world. Will I survive and how do I keep my staff motivated and turnover up?” “Treatment bookings are down, product houses prices are increasing and I’m really not sure how I am going to keep my business open, never mind show any growth.”
Professional Beauty July 2017
Are you feeling like any of the above salon/spa owners? If yes, keep reading and make a determined effort to make a change in your business. First of all you need to begin by accepting the fact that there should be NO decrease in turnover in your spa/salon in the winter months. As soon as you accept and acknowledge this fact, you will be more open to ideas and proven methods that work in keeping your turnover constant (sometimes even increased) and ensuring your staff are motivated. I have prepared a very basic checklist for your review and analysis.
Why not start by applying three or four of the items listed below and see what happens to your business?
Winter business boosters
1
Prepare winter specials There is no doubt that the consumer has reduced their treatment spend so be careful not to try to promote the treatments you are trying to move, but rather promote the treatments clients need and cannot really do without. For example, we all need a manicure, pedicure, facial treatment and body
online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
27 during winter so put together a specific winter facial and, if you have peels in your range, now is the time to do a course of peels on your client’s skin. Again partner with your product house to offer some special buy in deal for professional product and perhaps a gift with purchase on aftercare products. Perhaps also add a back/neck and shoulder massage free with every specialised facial booked. There are so many ideas to exploit so just get creative, involve your staff and ensure your product suppliers come to the party. Sell winter contracts This is not rocket science – just follow this simple process and see the results. Don’t expect miracles and every single client to buy in, but remember that practice makes perfect. Start the winter contracts process now and see in a few years’ time how this simple idea can change your business. First off, consult with your staff and identify your top 10 clients if you are a small salon, top 30 Facial treatments
2
clients for a medium size salon, or top 50 clients for a larger salon/spa. Look back at their history and see what treatments they have done over the last three months. Add up the total spend on treatments and then call them in for an appointment, or offer them their specialised tailor made winter contract that is exclusive to them at their next treatment. Work on the same treatments they have done, offer them a 10 - 20% discount R
are a MUST during winter so put together a specific winter facial and, if you have peels in your range, now is the time to do a course of peels on your client’s skin.
exfoliation during the winter months but the reality is that pedicures take a back seat as no one can see your feet and body exfoliation can be done at home. So, ask your product supplier if they could offer you something free with each mani and pedi booked, or give your discount for professional product bought for this promotion. Then, don’t encourage clients to book just a manicure at special price, but offer a manicure and pedicure together for a special price, or with a free gift, or added value service. Facial treatments are a MUST
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty July 2017
spa focus
28 or giving them a target for winter special bookings and they get incentivised on meeting this target, find some way where your staff can earn more money. Do you have an optimised website? If yes, is it updated and able to sell online vouchers and products? If not, well then this winter you can set it up. Face it, technology is moving forward and it’s best you keep up or you will wither away. You don’t need a very complicated website but you do need one and to ensure the basics are covered in your website. WHO are you? WHERE can you be found? WHAT do you do? HOW much does it cost? WHEN are you open for trading? HOW can you be contacted? WHAT does your place look like? Take small steps but once your website is up and running, then start working on a monthly newsletter which is sent out by email and also links readers onto your website.
4 (depending on their spend, smaller spend 10%, medium spenders 15% and large spenders 20%) on the same treatments, which will be valid for the next three months and throw in one treatment they are not doing that you would like to introduce them to. They can either pay by credit card on three months budget or they can pay upfront. I suggest you offer terms that you feel comfortable with. Now this can either work like a bomb, or blow up like a bomb in your face, so be careful how you do this. Ensure that each client is given a personalised letter and package offer with their name on it, either from their therapist if they have an excellent relationship with their therapist, or from the spa owner or manager. Let the client know that this has been done only for the top 10 clients of the business and the reason you are doing it is to thank them for their loyalty and business. I would also once again get my product supplier involved to give them a small gift once they have signed the contract. What will happen after this is simple; the consumer will have spare money to purchase more homecare, or book additional treatments, as her next three months spend on treatments has been covered and paid for. Ensure to make the client sign the contract and understand that after three months these treatments expire so they HAVE TO BOOK them
Professional Beauty July 2017
within the specified time otherwise there is no point. Offer higher commission for achieving winter target/s Let’s face it, money makes everyone tick and any opportunity given to earn any extra money will not be turned down by staff and if it is, get rid of them. If you want your winter months to make more revenue, or even the same as the summer months, motivate your staff to work harder to get clients in. So, whether it be by giving them a fixed amount per contract sold,
3
Upgrade your treatment menu. Are you upgrading and changing your treatment menu every year? This is a must to ensure you are evolving with the industry and offering the treatments and services consumers read about in the glossy magazines. Your clients will go to another salon in search of a treatment or service should you not
5
online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
29 offer it and this really opens the door for them to become loyal customers of your competition. Try new layouts with your treatment menu, try and upgrade your wording, add new treatments and remove what is stale and not selling. Again, get your staff involved and don’t take their input for granted as they are the ones who spend time with the clients. Promote your machine treatments Winter is the ideal time for machine treatments especially IPL (Intense Pulsed Light), microdermabrasion, non-surgical face lift or tightening, as consumers don’t tend to spend too much time in the sun in winter. So, take advantage and put these machine treatments on promotion. If you don’t have any machine treatments then you seriously need to look at your business and decide which machine you can invest in this winter season. The machine trend is definitely here, so whether you will be a business
6
that takes advantage and cashes in on the trend, or have the attitude that ‘machines are too expensive’ will decide whether you make good profits or just plod along. We can prove to you how much additional money your business can make with
the simple investment in one piece of equipment. Now more than ever is the time to offer added value to keep clients. I am sure you are already feeling that your clients are cutting back a little. They are still coming for treatments but maybe not as often and not spending on retail as much. Whilst this economic downturn is only temporary we still have to survive and clients will now be looking around for better pricing and added value. I don’t really like discounting and rather prefer to always add a free treatment as this exposes your client to other treatments. Make sure though that you are giving free treatments that appeal to your clients; don’t give a treatment that is very seldom booked for free as this will not motivate your client at all. Last but not least, change your mindset. PB Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za
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Picture perfect The independently run Carchele Beauty Spa, situated at The Marine, a 5-Star seafront hotel in Hermanus, recently completed a revamp that took place over several years. Joanna Sterkowicz finds out more.
T
he Marine, situated in Walker Bay on the spectacularly beautiful south coast of the Western Cape, has a long history that dates back to 1902. Carchele Beauty Spa is a far more recent venture, having opened 16 years ago. Says spa owner, Serene Klue: “At that time the spa occupied two hotel rooms before moving to its current position three years later. I bought the spa 10 years ago. Every year we would embark on some changes to improve the spa and then eventually did a major revamp over the last two years to keep up with the latest trends in the industry. The hotel also did some revamping of its own. “Prior to the revamp, Carchele had a more clinical, upmarket salon feel. Now it has an opulent, luxurious, warm and relaxing spa atmosphere and look.”
Professional Beauty July 2017
Klue, who has been in the industry for over 26 years, working in and managing spas all over the world, believes that in addition to being situated in a beautiful environment, Carchele differentiates itself in the Cape spa sector by offering amazing service and treatments. “We always try to accommodate our guests no matter what,” she continues. “Our guests receive the ultimate in luxury and results orientated therapy. Carchele’s skilled therapists understand the essence
of wellbeing and guide guests in the selection of therapies most suited to reinstate balance and a sense of tranquility. In addition to hotel guests we have a strong base of regular clients from the local community.”
Massage magic Carchele’s signature spa massage therapy treatment is the 5 Star Massage. Says Klue: “Over the years we have found that clients often don’t know which massage to choose. So we decided to design a treatment
Spa at a glance
• Owner: Serene Klue • Spa manager: Elana Schreuder • Size: 115 square metres • Number of treatment rooms: 4 • Number of full time therapists: 6 • Hydro facilities: Steam room, DermaLife Spa Capsule
online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
31 that combines several different massages and the clients absolutely love it. This treatment comprises the best movements from our Swedish, aroma, hot stone, cupping and rungu massages to give guests that 5 star experience.” Still on the subject of body treatments, all of Carchele’s body wraps are done in the DermaLife Spa Capsule. “The Capsule has 10 different pre-set programmes that include colour therapy, steam, infrared, aromatherapy, mist treatments, water foot massage, Kneipp treatment and Vichy shower,” explains Klue. “Benefits of the Capsule include increased circulation, relaxation, detox, pain relief and it aids product penetration as well. We even have clients who suffer from claustrophobia who enjoy the treatment. The client’s neck and face are outside the capsule and not in contact with the steam and they are never left alone in the room as the therapist gives a nice relaxing scalp massage while the programme is running.”
Premium skincare Carchele’s brands of choice are Black Pearl and Decléor. “Black Pearl is a luxurious and innovative range of skincare products developed over the past 40 years. It is rich in minerals and nourishing oils, combined with cutting edge science. Products are infused with Tahitian black pearl, which is rich in organicmatrix calcium carbonate. Black Pearl has its entry level range, as well as the 24kt Gold, Pure Collagen (enriched with seaweed) and Hyaluronic ranges. “Decléor is a beautiful product based on aromatherapy and plant extracts. Because it is so natural we don’t get any reaction with this range. It is a well-established and huge range that has something for every guest’s skin needs,” concludes Klue. PB
training
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State of play With the next generation of beauty therapists and somatologists waiting in the wings, Joanna Sterkowicz looks into the standard of tertiary education in the beauty industry.
I
nternational examining body, ITEC, reports that in the last academic year, South African students enrolled on 24 different beauty courses ranging from Level 1 to Level 3, encompassing a wide range of skills and specialisms. “We saw pass rates that are comparative to those in other countries, with a number of students attaining distinctions,” says Jo-Rene Van Zyl, administration manager for ITEC SA. “In particular, South African students achieved high pass rates in the more niche and scientific aspects of beauty therapy, such as facial electrical treatments, microdermabrasion and laser treatments.” She notes that as holders of an internationally recognised qualification, South African ITEC beauty graduates are presented with vast employment opportunities, both within South Africa itself and worldwide. “ITEC Qualifications guarantee that beauty graduates in South Africa meet the same standards as other ITEC beauty graduates across the globe,” says Van Zyl. Debbie Merdjan of Camelot International adds: “Feedback from our overseas associates confirms that
Professional Beauty July 2017
South African therapists are in high demand, due to our excellent standards of education and the fact that our therapists are trained in a number of disciplines.” Isabel Roos of Isa Carstens Academy concurs that regular feedback from alumni working abroad, as well as international employers of South African therapists, confirm that the standard of training offered in SouthAfrica is excellent when compared internationally. “South-Africa is also the only country where three-year somatology qualifications are offered. International qualifications are normally a one-year course, or shorter, which does not lead to intensive coaching while studying,” she explains. Director of the Beauty Therapy Institute (BTI), Sandy Fuhr believes that South African therapists are regarded as the best trained globally. “To validate this
statement personally, I have observed the quality by examining candidates in South Africa and on behalf of CIDESCO International globally, from east to west. We are also undergoing an employment process in London, UK on behalf of the Sorbet Group in their salons. Our standard is vastly different. I believe part of this is due to the length of our training courses in South Africa as compared to the rest of the world.” PB
online at www.probeauty.co.za
training
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“Feedback from our overseas associates confirms that South African therapists are in high demand, due to our excellent standards of education and the fact that our therapists are trained in a number of disciplines.�
Pics courtesy of Camelot International
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty July 2017
training
Pic courtesy of Isa Carstens Academy
34
In short supply Professional Beauty asked leading educators to identify specific skills shortages within the beauty industry.
T
he two skills sets most often cited as lacking in South African spas and salons are business management and the ability to retail home care products to clients. Says Isabel Roos of Isa Carstens Academy: “This situation has been the same since I started in the industry 40 years ago. As providers, we train therapists and not business people and our focus remains therapy, not business.” Sandy Fuhr of the Beauty Therapy Institute (BTI) Fuhr adds: “It’s true that business management and retailing are two very important aspects required of a therapist, however these are often not the primary interests of someone undertaking this type of work.” Debbie Merdjan of Camelot International concurs that the lack of business and retail skills in the industry is problematic. “In addition, I would say professionalism, ethics, efficiency, punctuality, commitment and dedication are also lacking.” Fuhr has identified nail technology and massage therapy as particular skills shortages. “These markets have simply exploded, with so
Professional Beauty July 2017
many nail salons and spas opening,” she continues. “To find skilled and qualified massage therapists and experienced nail technicians has been a struggle for many years.”
Work ethic Salon and spa owners and managers often complain to Professional Beauty that it’s difficult to find graduates with a passion for the industry and who are willing to work hard. As to how to foster the correct work ethic in students, Merdjan says: “At Camelot International, it is our aim to prepare students to become therapist entrepreneurs in an
“Weekend and evening work is often required in the beauty industry, which is hard on the therapists with families.”
industry that demands respect, ethics and professionalism. Without these qualities, they will not succeed. Students are made aware of what is expected of them and what the requirements are in order to maintain high standards. Our students undergo work experience at Camelot Spas, where one learns that without a solid work ethic, one cannot work at the highest level.” Fuhr points out that at colleges, educators emphasise the need to work long and hard, with a clear clientoriented and hygiene focus. “Weekend and evening work is often required in the beauty industry, which is hard on the therapists with families. This is a strong motivator for moms to change their field of work to avoid absences from home. The Labour Act has been a strong force for therapists, ensuring they are working correctly and avoiding long additional hours.” In conclusion, Roos emphasises the importance of training throughout the therapist’s career. “With the growth of the medical aesthetic industry, focused training in this field has been identified as a huge demand. Therapists should continue with their own upskilling after qualifying, as in any other profession.” PB
online at www.probeauty.co.za
training
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Qualifying principles Beauty training facilities should be accredited with Services SETA (Sector Education & Training Authority) or CHE (Council of Higher Education) and registered with DHET (Department of Higher Education & Training), writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
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y law, come January 2018, all colleges, regardless of status, will need to be accredited and registered, according to Sandy Fuhr of the Beauty Therapy Institute (BTI). She continues: “An on-going issue in the industry has been the number of health & skincare colleges that are not legally registered and continue to offer an inferior education. This lowers the standards of our industry and gives us a bad reputation.” Isabel Roos of Isa Carstens Academy stresses that all qualifications should be registerd by SAQA (South African Qualifications Authority). “It is therefore important to have an understanding of the NQF (National Qualifications Framework) when deciding on a qualification,” says Roos. “This is a comprehensive system, approved by the Minister of Higher Education and Training, for the classification, registration and publication of articulated and quality-assured national qualifications and part-qualifications.” She explains that the NQF is organised as a series of levels of learning achievement, arranged in ascending order from one to 10 and a single integrated system which comprises of three coordinated qualifications SubFrameworks. These are: • General and Further Education and Training SubFramework (GFETQSF), NQF levels 1 - 4 • The Higher Education Qualifications Sub-Framework (HEQSF), NQF levels 5 - 10 • The Occupational Qualifications Sub-Framework (OQSF), NQF levels 1 – 6 (South African Qualifications Authority, 2017) Debbie Merdjan of Camelot International points out that government bodies like DHET, CHE and SAQA support the beauty industry by setting high educational standards and forcing educational institutions to look at their teaching methodology, curriculum and evaluation processes. “They act in the best interests of our students,” she states. Roos believes these government bodies have been supportive to registered private providers of higher education in guiding them to uphold the standard of training offered, to be in line with the training offered at any of the public universities. “Compliance to these standards gives the student and parents the assurance that the quality of training is of the highest standard and good practice.” However, in Fuhr’s opinion, the Services SETA, DHET and CHE could be doing more to actively support the industry. “They have informed us of what is required in
Professional Beauty July 2017
terms of the process to become registered and accredited, but I don’t think that they quite understand the difference in our teaching requirements to map them with diplomas/ certificates/ degrees. The full picture remains blurred. “Becoming accredited and registered within the realms of the governmental requirements is an issue as they are laborious and somewhat antiquated. Colleges that offer short courses are also required to become registered, which is time consuming and costly. Recruitment for courses and pricing of the courses are continual issues as products and equipment are highly priced.” PB
36
Pic courtesy of BTI
training
The student factor From millennials to staying power, Professional Beauty looks at the characteristics of today’s beauty therapy students.
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ebbie Merdjan of Camelot International has observed that the quality of students entering beauty training institutions has changed over the years. “We’ve found that millennials have a different approach towards education. It’s clear that social media plays a huge role in students’ lives and their attitude, commitment and ethics are not the same as the therapists of the past,” she says. Isabel Roos of Isa Carstens Academy agrees that working with millennials is challenging: “They have different ideas about life and work. The work place needs to understand them to create a conducive environment for all. From the first day of training, our students are reminded that they are somatologists in training and not ‘students’, as they are required to work long hours to prepare them for what is waiting for them in industry. “Regular work integrated learning sessions, where the students are placed in the industry to work for certain periods
of time, prepares them for what lies ahead. Unfortunately, some training providers opt for less hours of training, or short courses, which does not allow enough time for work experience training.” Sandy Fuhr of Beauty Therapy Institute (BTI) believes that it is the demographic of students and not the quality which has changed. “These days many students are undergoing modular training courses where they learn only certain aspects of the industry, for example only nails, only massage, or only skincare. This also attracts a different type of student base.”
Fall out As to the fall out rate of beauty therapy students, in Merdjan’s experience it is not high. “The average fall-out across our group is about 20% from 1st to 2nd Year, and approximately 25 to 30% from 2nd to 3rd year. This fallout rate is mainly due to students changing career paths and finance also plays a big role in their decision. Despite the bad economy, enrolments have stayed constant over the past few years.” Fuhr agrees that the fall out rate is not very large. “We find that the price of the course attracts truly interested learners. If enrolling a group of 20 learners into a full time programme, perhaps only 10 to 15% would fall out along the way. “However, since 2009, the numbers have decreased in most training centres globally. This is due to the economic climate in all developing and developed countries. The total number of learners entering our national and international examinations are markedly lower due to financial constraints with lower enrolments. We’ve observed minor increases in enrollment numbers at some colleges, but are finding that many have closed due to small intakes, or have adapted their methods of teaching to accommodate the changes.” Roos points out that while the completion rate is high when compared to national statistics, her academy has found that more students are unsure of their career choice and thus do not complete with their studies. “Consequently, the fall out rate has increased, as we normally had a 5% fall out rate and this has increased to between 10-15%. “Immediately after implementing the three-year Somatology programme, our intake rate dropped tremendously, but has once again grown to meet our target numbers. The increase in demand for somatologists working in the medical aesthetic industry and the possibility of acquiring higher level qualifications in our industry has led to more students seeing this as a career option.” PB
Professional Beauty July 2017
product focus
37 Polynesia calling Inspired by Maohi traditions, the Exotic Island Body Scrub from Thalgo with Bora Bora sand, sea salt and coconut shell gently exfoliates the body. It contains Monoi and jojoba oils to leave skin feeling soft and velvety. The scrub is enriched with Tahitian vanilla extracts, which transport the client to the very heart of the Polynesian islands.
011 880 3851/0
Thorough therapy Most professional facial and body treatments involve some form of exfoliation so as to unclog, smooth and rejuvenate the skin, making scrubs and exfoliators among the most essential items in any salon or spa.
Energetic enzymes
Force of gravity Sea of Spa has created the Black Pearl Gravity Black Mud Mask, a black mud mask inspired by the force of gravity. Active ingredients including vitamins, pure oils and plant extracts accelerate cellular dynamics and effectively exfoliate dead cells. The mask purifies and cleanses the skin without drying, and prepares it for maximum absorption of moisture.
The Sknlogic Exfoliate Enzymatic is formulated with protease enzymes to break down and detach dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. They mimic the role of your own body’s natural protease enzymes and promote decay of the protein and dissolution of dead skin cells, stimulating cell renewal.
021 552 6999
082 560 0262
Daily dose Dermalogica’s Daily Resurfacer is a leave-on exfoliating treatment to brighten and tone all skin conditions. It is to be used daily between professional skincare treatments. Each precisely-measured, leave-on dose contains one application of alpha and beta hydroxy acids and enzymes to smooth the skin, helping to reduce the signs of premature ageing.
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011 268 0018 online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty July 2017
product focus
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Magic mud The Exfoliating Mud Scrub from MatsiMela Home Spa is positioned as a product with a difference as the effect it has on the skin is both exfoliating as well as moisturising. It contains natural silica, which results in a gentle exfoliating action. The scrub’s small particle size gives a smooth and polished exfoliation to the skin.
011 704 7251
Detox Biopure Detox Gum provides an essential cleansing ritual with a combined exfoliating and clarifying action, due to its rich kaolin content. Ingredients include phytovityl, purisoft, oxygeskin, kaolin, sage extract, horse chestnut extract, horsetail extract, hawthorn extract, and menthol.
011 783 9817
In the ‘Zone’ RégimA’s SpaZone Luxury Body Enhancer Anti-Ageing Biomimetic Peel + Polisher is a luxurious body peeling option. A plethora of actives burst with benefits, providing all important natural enzymatic exfoliation from tropical fruits, plus a highly concentrated, purified lactic acid, produced by fermentation of sugar.
011 615 2869
Fruity cocktail The Cspa Invigorating Body Scrub is a combination of uplifting orange and ginger essential oil. This leaves the skin feeling smooth, soft and alive. It contains a double exfoliating mechanism, using two different sized polyethylene micro spheres.
011 880 3851/0 Professional Beauty July 2017
online at www.probeauty.co.za
product focus
39 Mild peel
Ultra powerful
Babor Mild Peeling is a gentle, mechanical face exfoliator suitable for all skin types and conditions barring sensitive skin. It gently removes superficial hard skin and dead superficial skin cells, leaving the skin smooth and supple. Active ingredients include exfoliating grains made from finely ground, round peach kernels, allantoin and sesame oil.
For resistant body skin concerns, DermaFix Ultra XFoliant maybe added into any DermaFix cleanser or body wash. DermaFix Ultra XFoliant is a natural crystal that offers controllable exfoliation to safely remove redundant skin cells, leaving the skin brighter, lighter, luxuriously softer and revitalised.
0861 28 23 23
011 467 0110
Phytopeeling Juliette Armand’s Elements Phytopeeling Mask is a powdered exfoliating mask for sebum and oil control. It is a mechanical form of facial exfoliation for oily, combination and acne-prone skin. The main actives are 20% Phytopeel and 5% Zinc Oxide, which is antibacterial and antiseptic.
011 033 0500
Cactus powder Wesson Therapeutics’ very popular Micro Exfoliant contains super-fine dissolving cactus saccharide powder. The oilbased formula removes surface dead skin cells effortlessly, without a single granule left on the skin at the conclusion of the application. This product is available as part of the brand’s professional and retail ranges.
021 801 4823 online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty July 2017
hair news skin diseases
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Complex conditions While severe cases of worrisome skin conditions like rosacea, psoriasis and eczema should be referred to medical doctors, there are a variety of topical products and some in-salon treatments available to help treat mild cases, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
Pic courtesy of Wesson Therapeutics
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herie Cochrane, skincare expert and owner of Dermology Skin and Laser Clinic in Morningside, Johannesburg, defines rosacea as a chronic, inflammatory skin condition that most often affects the face. “Rosacea worsens with time if left untreated,“ continues Cochrane. “It is a common skin disease but can be a very bothersome and embarrassing condition. Rosacea often begins with a tendency to blush or flush more easily than other people. It generally affects the central “While rosacea acne, and has third of the face, periodic ups cannot be cured, especially the and downs, nose, forehead medical treatments i.e. flares and and chin. At are available that can remissions); Dermology we small red control or eliminate always advise pimples and on prompt and its various signs and fine red veins proper treatment.” symptoms.” (telangiectasia) Some of the on the facial skin; common symptoms rhinophyma (an of rosacea are: redness enlarged, bulbous red of the face/ flushing nose); eye problems (e.g. (rosacea may be mistaken for swollen, red eyelids, conjunctivitis); rosy cheeks, sunburn, or quite often, and rosacea keratitis. Cochrane explains that rosacea can cause more than redness. “There are so many signs and symptoms that rosacea has four subtypes: erythematotelangiectatic rosacea, which causes redness, flushing and visible blood vessels. The second subtype is papulopustular rosacea (redness, swelling, and acne-like breakouts). Then there is phymatous rosacea, where the skin thickens and has a bumpy texture. Lastly there is ocular rosacea; in this instance the patient has red and irritated eyes.
Professional Beauty July 2017
The eyelids can be swollen, and the person may have what looks like a sty.” She notes that a much higher percentage of people with fair skin develop rosacea compared with other people. “The exact cause of rosacea is unknown; it’s possible a combination of factors may be responsible for the condition, although there isn't enough evidence to say this for certain.” Some of the main factors that have been suggested are: blood vessel abnormalities; microscopic mites (these are called demodex folliculorum which usually live harmlessly on human skin, but people with rosacea have particularly large numbers, which may play a role in the condition. It is currently uncertain whether the mite is a cause or an effect of rosacea, although some researchers have suggested the symptoms may be caused by the skin reacting to bacteria in the mites' faeces); helicobacter pylori bacteria (these bacteria are found in the digestive system); and genetics.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
skin diseases
41 “While rosacea cannot be cured, medical treatments are available that can control or eliminate its various signs and symptoms,“ comments Cochrane. “For patients with bumps and pimples, oral medication is often prescribed, and to reduce redness and flushing, BBL TM light therapy is now used. “In terms of skincare ingredients, the biggest culprits are astringents/toners, soap, exfoliating agents, certain makeup, perfume/cologne and hairsprays . For men, flare-ups had been caused by shaving lotion; soap; perfume/cologne. The most irritating ingredient for both men and women is alcohol, followed by witch hazel, menthol, peppermint and eucalyptus.“
Eczema and psoriasis
Pic courtesy of Wesson Therapeutics
Dermology’s specialist dermatologst, Dr Lushen Pillay, points out that eczema and psoriasis are often confused. “It's important to distinguish between the two as the treatments often differ, as does the prognosis. Atopic eczema usually starts off in kids and affects flexural areas, while psoriasis normally occurs in adulthood and affects extensor areas like elbows and knees etc. Psoriasis can be associated with joint pain and can then lead to psoriatic arthritis, which is a debilitating condition. Both eczema and psoriasis lead to significant impairment in quality of life. Atopic eczema can improve as children reach puberty, whereas psoriasis is more chronic.“ According to Pillay, treatments depend on severity, age and medical conditions such as hypertension, diabetes etc. “Treatments range from topical treatments like steroids, tar based products, emollients, to oral medication such as immuno-modulation treatment. Each patient needs an individualised programme to suit his or her needs.“ Hanlie Burger, distributor of Xzema Skin Lotion, adds that eczema literally means ‘inflammation of the skin’. “It occurs when the skin is abnormally sensitive to allergens, causing the skin to become red, flaky R
Professional Beauty July 2017
skin diseases
42 and itchy. This disease is chronic and recurrent. While there currently is no cure for eczema, symptoms can be managed with a variety of treatments. “Approximately 10% to 20% of the world’s population develops eczema. An estimated 65% develop eczema during their first year of life, and 90% develop the condition before age 5. While eczema resolves in many children by age 2, 50% continue to experience signs and symptoms into adulthood. Eczema occurs in all races and skin types. Studies show no strong racial differences.“ Burger notes that most cases of eczema can be controlled with proper treatment. “The goals of treatment are to hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, decrease the risk of infection, and alleviate the itchy rash. Effective treatment often requires a multifaceted treatment plan that includes medication, proper skin care, trigger avoidance, and coping mechanisms. While doing all of this may seem cumbersome, adhering to a treatment plan can help to feel better and stop the eczema from getting worse.“
Barrier stability Ursula Hunt of DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care points out that eczema, psoriasis and rosacea are chronic inflammatory conditions that affect the barrier stability of the
Professional Beauty July 2017
skin and are auto-immune in nature. Says Hunt: “DermaFix has a range of products that promote skin health by restoring barrier integrity, while reducing inflammatory responses within the skin. This assists in reducing itching, redness and skin dryness often associated with these concerns.” DermaFix Hydra-Silk Cleanser is a lightweight emollient cleanser that gently removes surface residues without stripping the skin of vital moisture. It furthermore works to restore skin hydration levels whilst effectively soothing the skin. The DermaFix Vitamin B Cream is a highly effective, moisturising cream recommended for all skin types. “One may want to consider the inclusion of DermaFix Ceramide Complex, rich in the ceramide content essential for a healthy skin barrier. It provides the skin with lipid repair and protection to help combat skin dryness and irritation. DermaFix Skin ResQ may further be incorporated for eczema and psoriasis concerns affecting the body. This nourishing emollient blend utilises murumuru
seed butter, a superior butter with anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties, and CoQ10 for boosted anti-oxidant protection and repair,” suggests Hunt. Use of the DermaFix Organic Colloidal Oat Masque may be considered as it assists to soothe inflammation, suppress redness and itching, while promoting barrier integrity and correcting the pH of the skin to reduce irritation. In-clinic treatment options may include the DermaFix Sensitised/Rosacea Facial working to soothe sensitivity, along with the inclusion of the DermaFix LED Masque, promoting skin healing benefits through photomodulation, reducing inflammation while encouraging the formation of collagen and elastin.
Calming cream The experts at Babor note that extrasensitive skin is dry, itchy and tends to over-react. They say: “The most extreme forms of this skin condition are atopic dermatitis – also known as neurodermatitis – and psoriasis. In cooperation with leading scientists
online at www.probeauty.co.za
skin diseases
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online at www.probeauty.co.za
“Clinical tests convincingly demonstrate the antibacterial effectiveness of the extremely pure, elementary microsilver used by Babor. A special surface structure releases the silver ions on the surface of the skin with long-lasting effect and thus creates a depot effect. Babor uses gamma-linolenic acid obtained from evening primrose oil to repair the skin’s hydrolipid mantle, which has been damaged due to a lack of essential fatty acids. Gammalinolenic acid stimulates the skin’s natural production of ceramides, which settle in the gaps between the cells and thus restore the lipid mantle. In addition, lactate and dexpanthenol supply intensive moisture and thus keep the acid mantle intact. The skin’s suppleness is thus optimally restored.”
Nutritional levels Belinda Wesson of Wesson Therapeutics believes that when treating conditions such as eczema and psoriasis, it is important to ensure that nutritional levels are optimal, since stress often affects these skin
Pic courtesy of Dermology
and dermatologists, we have developed a blend of active, neurocosmetic ingredients that break through this itch-scratch cycle and combat all these symptoms. Doctor Babor Neuro Sensitive Cellular has an anti-irritant effect, soothes itching and feelings of tightness and restores the hydrolipid mantle that protects the skin. At the same time, the extremely gentle skincare formula does not contain any ingredients that could upset the balance of the skin – preservatives such as parabens, mineral oil, fragrance and artificial colorants – and can even be used during symptom-free periods in the case of neurodermatitis and psoriasis.” The active ingredient neuroxyl restores the natural balance to this stimulus-response chain by increasing the number of receptor molecules. Neuroxyl thus desensitises the skin and instantly soothes irritations, redness and itching, with longlasting results. At the same time, microsilver protects the skin’s surface from intruding bacteria and foreign substances.
conditions adversely. “Psoriasis has always been notoriously difficult to treat and the products available have been limited, especially since the banning of coal tar as an active ingredient in 2015, due to concerns over carcinogenic properties. The Wesson range contains plant-based ingredients and particular care is taken to avoid the inclusion of ingredients that might result in irritation of the skin. “Unfortunately, psoriasis simply cannot be treated topically with long-term results. Many professionals believe that the origin of psoriasis lies in the malabsorption of essential fatty acids in the villi of the small intestine. We have found that by introducing essential fatty acids into the diet along with highly effective topical applications, results become evident within less than three weeks.“ For eczema and psoriasis, the two main Wesson Therapeutics items are Multi-Purpose Cream and Resurfacing Balm. The latter provides an antiinflammatory effect and promotes the healing of any compromised skin condition. Extremely costefficient, the Multi-Purpose Cream helps to spread the Resurfacing Balm over larger areas. The inclusion of ingredients such as aloe vera, jojoba extract as well as hyaluronic acid, ensure optimal hydration and a significant reduction in irritation. Where secondary infection has set in through scratching, Wesson recommends activated oxygen as an R
Professional Beauty July 2017
skin diseases
44 active ingredient. The Wesson Ozone Balm is highly efficacious as an antimicrobial agent. “We believe in the inclusion of skin friendly ingredients and therefore exclude the following: petroleumbased mineral oil, BHT (butylated hydroxy toluene), paraben preservatives, cyclomethicone and cylcopentasiloxane (volatile silicones), as well as artificial fragrances and colourants. Besides avoiding paraben preservatives, we also avoid diazolidinyl urea and imidazolidinyl urea, since these preservatives are both formaldehyde donors, releasing formaldehyde to provide their germicidal effect. Both are considered to be prime skin irritants. Propylene glycol, a common skincare ingredient, is also avoided since it has been labelled an eye and skin irritant by the CTFA (Cosmetic Toiletry Fragrance Association),“ explains Wesson.
Conservative care Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA believes rosacea without acne should be
Professional Beauty July 2017
handled conservatively, avoiding steaming in-salon. “There are lasers available to help ‘zap’ veins but test patch laser should be done initially to ensure success as this treatment may be expensive. RégimA Scar Repair Forté, as well as Quantum Elastin-Collagen Revival, have been seen clinically to greatly improve all degrees of rosacea, including inflammatory or acne rosacea, calming skin redness and helping telangiectasia become less visible by thickening and re-elastisizing skin. This is achieved with anti-inflammatory and healing plants such as centella asiatica, and unique micro-molecular elastin peptide, plant and protein complexes. The rosacea sufferer must use a day product with 15 to 25 SPF over the top of the Scar Repair Forte,“ explains Faucitt. For an in salon/spa treatment, Faucitt recommends the RégimA SpaZone O2-Radiance Luminosity Masque. “This is a must have antiageing masque which has been seen to also calm the distressing symptoms of rosacea.“ Faucitt maintains that RégimA Power Peels performed in-salon are a must to treat acne rosacea, whcih requires a more aggressive approach in order to try and minimise the grossly enlarged pores, the active acne, acne scarring and rhinophyma. She continues: “The RégimA peel successfully reduces the pores, controls oil secretion without exacerbating telangiectasia. With acne or inflammatory rosacea, the peel has an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial effect helping treat and prevent congestion and acne, often associated with rosacea. “Continuity with powerful home care is essential. Omega High Impact Night Complex is powerful enough to dramatically reduce the enlarged features, as well as the scarring associated with acne rosacea. If the skin has many telangiectasia/couperose/ broken capillaries, then one should apply the Omega Night over the top of Scar Repair Forte Serum, which is aiming to rapidly reduce inflammation. Alternating Power Peels with laser treatments, even as often as every two weeks, can have a dramatic effect on acne rosacea.“
Soothing effect The Derma-Calm Neuro-Sensitive Couperose Serum from Ericson Laboratoire is positioned as a true emergency serum for skin that is going through flare-ups. It soothes feelings of discomfort and irritation, reduces redness, restructures and optimises the potential of the skin’s natural defence system. Skinasensyl reduces the release of pro-inflammatory neuromodulators, while Ôcalin inhibits neurogenic inflammation and Phytotonine acts as a vasoconstrictor and anti-ecchymotic venous tonic. Sepicalm fights against the propagation of inflammation and stimulates the production of beta-endorphins. Peony cryo-buds soften, restructure and have mineral replenishing properties. The antiinflammatory effect comes from boswellia extract. PB
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Inspiring today’s hairdresser The time for change is here! Date:
3 & 4 September 2017
Venue: Gallagher Convention Centre Opening Times: Sunday: 10h00 – 18h00 Monday: 10h00 – 17h00
Increase your knowledge ✪ Stage Demos ✪ Hair Competition ✪ Exhibitor Demos Whether you are looking for personal or business growth, these attractions are not to be missed. Come along and gain invaluable advice from the top industry professionals on how you can make your efforts and creativity translate in a successful business.
The event for your professional hair business Register now for your free ticket and save the R250 entry fee.
www.salonafrica.co.za *Salon Africa was previously known as Professional Hair
hair news
46
Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.
Celebrity range Rapple shows off Rapple Salon Supplies has opened its Centurion Showroom in Corporate Park on Nellmapius Drive, and has become the exclusive distributor for the awardwinning Jean Paul Myne range of hair care products and DOC color.
081 015 7669
Oribe Hair Care is now available in South Africa. Pronounced Or-bay, Oribe is a renowned celebrity hairstylist whose hair care ranges blend natural extracts with top level treatment technology. Products are crueltyfree and contain no parabens or sodium chloride. All Oribe ranges feature the brand’s signature Cote d’Azur fragrance, as well as beautiful packaging.
082 771 3173
Perfect preparation PK Prep is a luxury styling range that is scientifically formulated to build the foundations of perfect hair. Created by experts, the innovative collection delivers effortless control, manageability and shine, and is enriched with super-conditioning and protective ingredients. The trio of products are Perfecting Spray, Plumping Cream and Polishing Balm.
083 268 3217
Blonde-and-bond The much-loved Blondme range from Schwarzkopf Professional now has a revolutionary bonding technology built in, to actively transform damaged, broken and washed out hair by reconnecting and rebuilding the di-sulphide bonds within the hair’s inner structure. This helps hairdressers to blonde-and-bond their clients’ hair in one easy stem.
0800 138 181
Professional Beauty July 2017
online at www.probeauty.co.za
lasers, ipls and rf
47
Energetic technology Many beauty salons (and even some spas) are today offering treatments involving the use of energy based devices such as lasers, IPL and radiofrequency for a variety of applications, including facial rejuvenation, skin tightening, body contouring and hair removal.
F
or any salon, spa or medical aesthetic clinics looking to invest in devices that use an energy source to change the skin, research is essential to know the differences between them. Whereas laser (Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation) technology uses only one wavelength on the treatment area, IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) has a range of light wavelengths. Therefore it follows that lasers are more specific for a single target, whereas IPL has a range of targets. Radiofrequency (RF), on the other hand, uses electricity as its energy source. An energy is produced that
sensitive area in a woman’s body. Factors such as lack of exercise, stress, drastic diets, pregnancy and age all contribute to the appearance of that much dreaded ‘flabby belly’. Often, even rigorous exercise isn’t effective when it comes to restoring skin flexibility. Accent Prime gets rid of excess belly fat and produces firm, flexible skin, and is also very effective in providing firmness to the skin on the shoulders, arms and back.”
Clever combo
has a positive and negative pole and the heat generated is due to the resistance of the skin as the energy travels through it.
Available from Radiant Healthcare, the eLase Diode Laser + RF is powered by elos technology, a patented technology from Syneron. R
Prime device
Accent Prime
online at www.probeauty.co.za
The Alma Accent Prime is the latest addition to the Alma Lasers portfolio, available from Best Lasers. This system enables clinics and salons to offer body contouring, skin tightening, cellulite reduction and skin resurfacing treatments. Ideal for the face and neck, Accent Prime works on a mesh of collagen fibres, mobilising them into action so that skin regains its elasticity and form. It also has the ability to significantly reduce fat. Says Andrew Best of Best Lasers: “Accent Prime is positioned as a great solution for dealing with fatty tissue and willowy skin on the inside of the thighs and the knees to get rid of cellulite. Combining ultrasound and radio wave technologies, it acts quickly and effectively, stimulating collagen fibres to achieve a slim and lifted effect. “The stomach is arguably the most
eLase
Professional Beauty July 2017
lasers, ipls and rf
48 Says Radiant Healthcare’s Danelle Wheatley: “Dr Shimon Eckhouse, who invented the first IPL device, invented elos technology in the year 2000. Elos, which stands for electro optical synergy, is a combination of laser and RF. The latter is chromophore independent and therefore not dependent on the melanin in the skin, which means all skin types, as well as blonde hair, can be treated. eLase is a Diode laser and the 810 nm-gold standard for hair reduction. “Hair removal works with a principle called selective photothermolysis. The light that penetrates the skin is absorbed by the melanin and changed into heat, thus only destroying the target, which would be the hair follicle.” Wheatley stresses that these high frequency, low energy treatments are virtually pain free and have minimal downtime. eLase features Active Dermal Monitoring to monitor skin impedance. “We believe that this device has the largest treatment spot size in the industry. Also available from Radiant Healthcare and featuring Elos technology is the eSyle, an IPL device that is clinically proven to get the best results for a broad range of skin types and hair colours.
Safyre
Professional Beauty July 2017
Lumenis M22 “eStyle is a multi-application platform allowing you to offer a wide range of aesthetic treatments in one compact system. It is upgradeable with four different applicators for a wide range of clinical indications.” The Safyre from Cocoon Medical has been designed to offer integral solutions with regard to body contouring and facial rejuvenation. Says Wheatley: “The purpose of RF is to improve the quality of the skin and stimulate collagenisis by heating the adipose tissue, as well as the tissue at subcutaneous level through heat diffusion. Collagenisis takes place through the formation of HSP molecules (Heat Shock Proteins), which synthesise in the presence of certain stimuli and promote the start of tissue repair. This effect produces an immediate tightening effect on the skin with short-medium term results.” In terms of body contouring, reduction of cellulite and improvement of body toning are offered by Satyre from the first sessions. Safyre activates the elastin fibres and collagen, which help to regenerate the damaged skin and reduce the adipose tissue. The effects are a smoother and firmer skin and a viable reduction of the adipose tissue.
with which all IPL indications (including skin treatments, vascular lesions, pigmented lesions, active acne and hair removal) can be treated.” The spectrum of the Universal IPL is 400- 1200nm with the following filters: 515, 560, 590, 615, 640, 695, 755nm and a new Acne filter (400-600 & 800-1200nm) plus a new Vascular filter (530-650& 900-1200nm). Olivier continues: “The Acne Special notch filter is especially designed for inflammatory acne stages. It offers a solution for patients who do not want, or are not compatible with, topical or oral medication. For telangiectasia treatments, the Vascular Notch is especially designed for precise tailoring.” She notes that the three Lightguide sizes are: 6mm (for very fine tuning); 8mmx15mm and 15x35mm. “The Lumenis OPT controls pulse shape by equalising energy distribution over the entire pulse or sequential pulses and offers gentler, more comfortable, patient-friendly procedures, with lower effective fluences. A new innovation is that Advanced OPT will also allow the operator to determine the specific fluence per sub-pulse when using multiple-sequential pulsing, for finetuned treatment settings.”
Expert Filters
Sleek treatment
The supplier of aesthetic systems distributed by the Hitech Group, Lumins recently added two new ExpertFilters and a third Lightguide to the Universal IPL with OPT (Optimal Pulse Technology) on the M22 platform. “Lumenis M22 offers the widest range of wavelengths (range of filters) for the largest treatment offering and optimised treatment results,” says Hitech’s Naomi Olivier. “With one applicator or hand piece, there is a choice of nine filters and three Lightguides, changeable in seconds,
Launched in the second quarter of 2017, the Lumenis SlimMe Body Contouring and Body Shaping system is a high-end therapeutic device that incorporates ultrasound, RF, cooling and vacuum in a single hand piece. It is intended for cosmetic and aesthetic contouring and/or body shaping. The combination R
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lasers, ipls and rf
50 of the two applicators – Hexagonal and Rectangular – enable personal sculpting. Fat cell destruction is achieved by volumetric heating. SlimMe technologies incorporated into one hand piece include: Multipolar R (enhances skin laxity and tension for better short term results); Pulsating Vacuum (increases lymphatic drainage for better short term results; Protective Cooling ensures no damage to epidermis and dermis and pain is also minimised; Uniform Ultrasound (ensures homogeneous coverage for a better outcome). While the SlimME procedure is intended for improvement in cosmetic and aesthetic appearance in body shaping, it is not a weight loss programme and cannot replace a healthy lifestyle. The device can be used for contouring visible fat bulge and post pregnancy fat. The results of a SlimMe treatment are circumferential and weight changes.
BTL Vanguish
Variety
BTL Exilite
Body Contouring Cellulite Body Contouring Cellulite
Pigmented & Vascular Lesions Pigmented & Vascular Lesions
Wrinkles, Acne & Stretch Marks Wrinkles, Acne & Stretch Marks
LightSheer PAIN-FREE Laser Hair Removal LightSheer PAIN-FREE Laser Hair Removal
Vaginal Rejuvenation Vaginal Rejuvenation
Available from BTL Aesthetics South Africa, the BTL Exilis Elite combines RF and ultrasound to safely and uniformly heat the deeper layers of the skin for increased collagen synthesis, skin tightness, elasticity, tissue volume and tone. Says BTL’s Branislav Sucansky: “This advanced technology not only reduces wrinkles and remodels the face, but also assists with volume reduction and recontouring of problem body areas. Studies have shown that the uniform delivery of heat deep into the targeted layers of fat achieves effective lipolysis (breakdown of fat) and controlled cell death, providing a marked improvement in skin laxity and a 30-40% reduction of fat. Areas that can be treated include: face, neck, eyes, stomach, love handles, buttocks, arms, inner and outer thighs, knees breasts and back. It is also great to effectively target double chins.” The BTL Vanquish ME has been FDA cleared for nonsurgical circumferential reduction of the abdominal area. “Scientific studies published in peer-reviewed journals validated that the Vanquish patented technology induces death of fat cells via apoptosis, safely and effectively,” comments Succansky. “This next-generation fat reducing device employs a first-of-its-kind technology using a contactless panel array that creates a high-frequency
BTL Exilis Elite
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Contact TheHitech Hitech Group Group for on on Contact The forinformation information our comprehensive product portfolio. our comprehensive product portfolio. 012 349 1250 T T 012 349 1250 E hitech@hitechlasers.co.za E Whitech@hitechlasers.co.za www.hitechlasers.co.za WFBwww.hitechlasers.co.za hitechgroupsa FB hitechgroupsa
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Professional Beauty July 2017
by
World leadin P World leading Pain Free Hair Rem lasers, ipls and rf
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Selective RF energy field to treat broad areas of the midsection, providing natural-looking results across the entire abdominal and core area in four to six short treatment sessions.” BTL Exilite is an advanced IPL system that treats skin ageing, acne, pigmentation and vascular lesions. It also offers effective hair removal of all skin types. The uniform distribution of light achieves faster, more effective results, while the multi-pulse mode and advanced cooling system enable gentle delivery of energy into the skin, decreasing the risk of unwanted reactions, such as redness.
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Pain Free Hair Removal
Pain Free HairFree Removal Pain Ha Pain Free
Fast application times According to Tzvia Hermann, director of Beautique Distribution, it is the 27 MHz radio frequency (as found in Dectro devices) that has been established as the reference in the permanent hair removal market. “The main advantage of this frequency is the ultra fast change of polarity, from positive to negative, represented by its 27 million cycles (Hertz) per second,” continues Hermann. “This ultra fast polarity coagulates tissues two times faster than conventional hair removal devices at 13,56 MHz, and five times faster than those at 5 MHz. Such speed allows extremely fast application times, making the treatment much more comfortable. “Moreover, extensive researches show that at 27 MHz, the destruction zone is concentrated closer to the probe, where germ cells are located. Since the neighboring tissues are not affected by heat, the comfort is unparalleled. At 5 MHz, a larger model of heat is produced and Powered bycauses the heat to spread deeper into the dermis, causing more irritation and discomfort.” She adds that the 27.12 MHz frequency can be used for thermocoagulation treatments, for the removal of superficial skin imperfections quickly and comfortably. “Thanks to its 27 MHz ultrafast radiofrequency and exclusive application techniques, the treatment is performed so quickly that the sensation is barely noticeable by the patient. Mere thousandths of a second are enough to eliminate the unwanted imperfection,” notes Hermann. PB
World leading
Pain Free Hair Removal
Professional Beauty July 2017
nails
52
Top competition tips In the run-up to the Annual Professional Beauty Nail Competition, which takes place at the Gallagher Convention Centre in Joburg on the 3rd of September, we asked winner of NAILS Next Top Nail Artist Season 4, Tracey Lee, to reveal her winning secrets. French category Consistency is the key! The smile lines may not be exceptionally deep, however if all 10 smile lines are exactly the same the score will be higher than inconsistent, deep smile lines. Consistency comes with practise. Use your application technique and filing technique in the salon too, not just for competition training. In this way it becomes a habit and will help you increase your speed. Repetition creates muscle memory! Familiarise yourself with your product in different conditions. The competition floor is so different to the security of the salon where you practise. You have no idea what the temperature will be like, no idea if there is a draught, so ensure that during your practising, you familiarise yourself with how your product behaves in various conditions to ensure you can handle any condition on the competition floor without getting flustered. Practise regularly. As often as possible try to practise on a model, however in the absence of models it is also possible to practice on c-curve sticks with forms on them. This is not the same as working on a model but allows you to still perform the same movements as when applying product to a model. You can practise your product application, your product control in different conditions (as the c-curve stick does not generate the warmth a nailbed does), product clarity etc.
Nail Art/Mixed Media category Work with rhinestones and embellishments in a creative way. Rhinestones and embellishments
Professional Beauty July 2017
online at www.probeauty.co.za
nails
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should not only be used to fill up empty spaces. When applying rhinestones and other embellishments to your nail art, attempt to use them to add value to your creation. For example, metal bullions in the bottom of a glass create the look of bubbles instead of just being metal bullions. Use a crystal rhinestone on the leaf of a flower to create a dew drop. Experiment with your products. Take some time to play around with the systems you work with and find out what else you can create with them. Gel polish can be applied to the back of a form paper, cured and then cut into pieces to create the most delicate ribbon. Create an effect or movement in your piece. By adding an additional element to your creation, one adds an element of surprise, for example, a drawer that opens, a lamp with a real light in it, a chair that turns around. Surprise the judges by giving them that something extra.
Photographic category Nails are the focal point. You have all the time in the world to create the image, unlike the other competition categories, so ensure that the nails you create are perfect. If one has a dull spot, apply more top coat before the photographic shoot. If one nail is skew, redo it! Take your time to create the best set you can.
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Research the theme. If the competition has a particular theme, or if you choose your own theme, ensure that you research it thoroughly. By just looking at your image, the judges should be able to determine what your theme is. If the competition has a particular theme, ensure that your entry really stands out; that means your research should lead you to create an image that is within the theme, but different to the rest of the entries. For example, if the competition theme is Spring, in general, images will be of pretty models with spring flowers in their hair. Instead of that, try creating a set of nails with 3D flowers coming out of a watering can or pot. Start thinking out of the box. Throughout the creative process remember to create an image that you absolutely love. Sometimes one takes a calculated risk by positioning the hands slightly differently, or by using more background than was initially required, which makes the nails less of the focus than they should be. As long as you realise what the risk is that you are taking and you believe that it improves your image
as a whole, do it! Take risks and love what you create! Creativity begins at the end of your comfort zone. Look at yourself in the mirror‌ that is your competition. Don’t be threatened by other competitors that may be competing in your category. Focus on your nails and your competition and ensure that you improve each and every time you compete. That makes you a winner, everything else is an added bonus. PB South African-born, Netherlands-based nail artist and educator, Tracey Lee, is a multiple nail competition winner, both in South Africa and abroad. Lee is a past winner of the Professional Beauty Nail Competition as well as the Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition.
Professional Beauty July 2017
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Nailing it! Winning a competiton can be very benefical for your career as a nail technician, however you really need to have the right attitude before even attempting to compete, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
N
o matter how confident or good you are, nobody can say competing is easy. This is regardless of whether you’re a first time competitor with little experience, or a veteran tech with years of experience who has entered many competitions. Competing is either something you will, or won’t, enjoy – you will never know until you try. Some of our very own home grown top nail professionals have persevered and competed time after time, winning titles and competitions both locally and internationally, turning them into the amazing mentors they are today. This illustrious list includes Katja Da Silva, Tracey Owgan, Evelyn Janse van Vuuren, Tracey Lee and many others. The one thing I would really like to reiterate is, if you are going to compete then compete for the right reasons. If you are competing only to win, then you should think twice before competiting. It’s not about proving you are better than someone else, as everyone has their special something that makes them who they are. A true competitor and professional is not only someone who has amazing skills and expertise, but someone who is willing to learn, not only from the experience, but also from their mistakes. Someone who is humble, a team player and willing to share their experiences with others.
Stressful conditions A competitive environment is very different to that in which you work in, as you are under a lot more pressure to perform, with time constraints as well as very specific instructions, rules and regulations to adhere to. This is not meant to scare you but rather to let you know what to expect. Competing can be extremely rewarding and a great opportunity to put your skills to the test, but remember one important key fact, and that is to compete against yourself and to take your capabilities to the limit. It takes determination to succeed in anything that you do. If you don’t win or get placed, don’t look at it as a poor reflection of your work but as a challenge to try and perfect your skills for the next time.
Professional Beauty July 2017
online at www.probeauty.co.za
nails
55 Not only will you come out richer for the experience, but the skills that you have practised will enhance your work and in turn, improve the treatments you give clients. You will also develop a newfound respect and admiration from your clients for competing, which will motivate you to enter other competitions.
Sound advice We could go into a lot of detail on exactly how to compete and exactly what the judges are looking for in each and every category, but it would take up pages and pages in this magazine. The best advice I can give is to: • Be well prepared • Read the rules and regulations thoroughly • Be confident, professional and humble • Practise, practise, practise • Attend competition preparation classes The absolute best preparation is to practise; knowing what you are doing and whether you are doing it correctly will give you absolute confidence. Attending a competition preparation class before a nail competition can also be very beneficial. Over the next couple of weeks and leading up to the Annual Professional Beauty Nail Competition taking place on the 3rd of September, there will be very specific hands on competition preparation classes taking place for you to attend. Knowing exactly what the criteria are, what is expected from you and what the judges are looking for, will definitely give you the edge and a better chance at achieving a winning set of nails. The preparation classes will encompass absolutely everything you need to know such as; • Why compete? • Rules & Regulations • Competition preparation – professionalism; dress code & conduct; time management; choosing a model; packing list of products and equipment • Competition set up – what to expect on the day of the competition; competition area set up; what the judges are looking for (judging criteria) • The rewards
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• Skill perfecting techniques – this will be hands on, giving you the opportunity to identify your strengths and weakneses and improve on them • Top Competition Tips from the experts A final thought and one that we hope will always keep you motivated is to remember that nothing is ever perfect, if it was then you would never be able to learn and achieve more. Always strive for perfection to be the very best you can be. Competing should be a good, positive learning experience and bring our industry together, so let’s all work together as professionals to make that happen at the Annual Professional Beauty Nail Competition. For more information about the Professional Beauty and Nail File competitions and competition preparation classes please contact Sonette van Rensburg at Elements Nail & Beauty Concepts; Tel: 076 585 4191 or email: sonette@ elementsnailandbeauty.co.za or sonettevr@gmail.com
Nail File Showcase Competition Categories – (Final submission date 31 July) • Photographic Nail Art – ‘Beauty and the Beast’ (Disney’s new release) • Tip Box Nail Art – ‘Pirates of The Carribean: Dead Men Tell No Tales’ Annual Professional Beauty Nail Competition Categories • • • • o o • o o • o o •
Mixed Media Nail Art – ‘Guardians of the Galaxy’ Gel Polish Manicure Gel Polish Creations – Pantone 2017 Trends Tip Overlay Liquid & Powder Novice Intermediate Tip Overlay Gel Competition Novice Intermediate Sculpting Liquid & Powder Intermediate Gel Intermediate Masters Sculpting Challenge
Professional Beauty July 2017
SHOWCASE YOUR ARTISTIC SKILLS SHOWCASE NAIL ART
COMPETITION 2017
CATEGORIES Photographic Showcase Nail Art Competition - Capture
Tip Box Nail Art Competition – Explore your creativity and
your artistic nail skills in the form of a photograph from
design nail art beyond your wildest imagination from the
Disney’s 2017 remake of the beautiful love story, Beauty &
exciting new movie release, Pirates of the Caribbean – Dead
The Beast, which allows for complete artistic freedom. The
Men Tell No Tales, into Tip Box Nail Art. This phenomenal movie
nail stylist must create a full set of nail enhancements using
should inspire you to create the most incredible display of nail
any combination and type of nail enhancement system
art. The nail stylist’s entry and artwork is to be designed and
and nail art and present it in a professional photograph
created on nail tips and placed in a transparent box frame or
depicting this beautiful theme throughout.
display case, which allows the competitor’s work to be seen.
The Top 10 entries in each category will be featured in Nail File. Thereafter, the Top 10 in each category will be exhibited at the annual Professional Beauty National Nail Competition, held in conjunction with the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo at Gallagher Convention Centre in September. The Top 3 finalists and the winner will be announced at the show during the Nail Competition awards ceremony and featured in the post-show issue of Nail File.
For Rules & Regulations and further information to enter, please log onto the Professional Beauty website:
www.probeauty.co.za or contact the Competition Director, Sonette van Rensburg, on email - sonettevr@gmail.com.
medical aesthetics
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HIGH on skin‌ Dr Judey Pretorius defines Health Ingredients Generation Homeostasis (HIGH) and how it impacts on our skin.
T
he skin is the most seen and public organ but the least understood. It never lies; consider that sensory, nerves, temperature measurement, blood flow, perspiration and pore dilation activities are all assessed during lie detection tests. Additionally, infrared cameras are used by security personnel at airports to detect a fever in a crowd. We have to understand who we are and what our cells are made of as we recognise ourselves by our skin. A magnificent array of chemical reactions takes place on a molecular and cellular level within the skin.
Health Human skin is a complex living material but in biomechanical tests it reveals its homogeneous nature. The skin reacts immediately and directly to the outside environment. Human skin can be stretched to several times its original size and still maintain its original phenotypic properties. Such impressive expansion is possible because the skin is a highly specialised mechanical structure, responding through a network of interconnected cascades of chemical reactions, Healthy skin with the participation of extracellular, cytoplasmic refers to the optimum and nuclear membranes. level of functional and Healthy skin refers metabolic efficiency to the optimum level of functional and of a living organism. metabolic efficiency of a living organism. In human skin, this means the ability to adapt and self-manage when facing physical, mental,
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Professional Beauty July 2017
medical aesthetics
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psychological and social changes. Our skin’s health is a complex biological process influenced by a combination of intrinsic (genetics, cellular metabolism, hormone and metabolic processes) and extrinsic (chronic light exposure, pollution, ionising radiation, chemicals, toxins) factors.
Ingredients Particular compounds and molecules need to be applied to skin in order to assist and supplement a homeostatic balance at all times, even when the skin is exposed to social and environmental stressors. A product with measurable quality, safety and efficacy standards should be considered. Stereo chemical properties of the active and inactive ingredients applied to the skin is explicitly important, i.e. the chemical
Professional Beauty July 2017
skin through their small molecular weight. The water-soluble, heatlabile (susceptible to alteration or destruction) local L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) in concentrations between 5 and 15% was proven to have a skin anti-ageing effect by inducing the production of Collagen-I, and Collagen-III, as well as enzymes important for the production of collagen, and inhibitors of matrixmetalloproteinase (MMP) I (collagenase I). Vitamin E (a-tocopherol) used as a component of skin products has antiinflammatory and anti-proliferative effects in concentrations between 2 and 20%. It acts by smoothing the skin and increasing the ability of the stratum corneum to maintain its humidity, to accelerate the epithelialisation, and contribute to photoprotection of the skin. Vitamin A (retinol) also has antioxidant effects. Retinol is, at the moment, the substance that is most often used as an anti-ageing compound, due to its positive effects not only on extrinsic but also on intrinsic skin health and strong positive effect on collagen metabolism. Vitamins C, B3, It has been and E are the most shown to be important antioxidants able to reduce the signs of because of their ability U V- i n d u ce d to penetrate the skin early skin ill characteristics through their small health, such as of a compound wrinkles, loss should be molecular weight. of skin elasticity understood in and pigmentation. order to ensure Polypeptides that a therapeutic or oligopeptides are and biological benefit is composed of amino acids obtained on a cellular level. and can imitate a peptide sequence Two main groups of agents of molecules such as collagen or can be used as skin health topical elastin. Through topical application, components: antioxidants and cell polypeptides have the ability to regulators. Antioxidants, such as stimulate collagen synthesis and vitamins, polyphenols and flavonoids, activate dermal metabolism. reduce collagen degradation by Chemical peels are methods to reducing the concentration of free cause a chemical exfoliation of defined radicals in the tissues. The cell skin layers to induce an even and tight regulators, such as retinols, peptides skin as a result of the regeneration and growth factors (GF), have direct and repair mechanisms after the effects on collagen metabolism and inflammation of the epidermis and influence collagen production. dermis. They are classified into Vitamins C, B3, and E are the most three categories. superficial peels important antioxidants because [alpha + beta, lipo-hydroxy acids of their ability to penetrate the
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medical aesthetics
59 (HA), trichloroacetic acid (TCA) 10–30%] exfoliate epidermal layers without going beyond the basal layer; medium-depth peels (TCA above 30 to 50%) reach the upper reticular dermis; deep peels (TCA > 50%, phenol) penetrate the lower reticular dermis. The depth of peeling depends not on the substance used only, but on its concentration, pH of the solution and time of application. A number of skin modifications have been reported after several weeks: epidermal architecture returns to normal, melanocytes are present and distributed uniformly, basal cells contain small melanin grains distributed homogeneously, the thickness of the basal membrane is homogeneous, in the dermis, a new sub epidermal band of collagen appears, elastic fibres form a new network, often parallel to those of collagen. If superficial peelings target the corneosomes, cause desquamation, increase epidermal activity of enzymes, lead to epidermolysis and exfoliation,
then medium-depth peels cause coagulation of membrane proteins, destroy living cells of the epidermis and, depending on the concentration, the dermis. Deep peels coagulate proteins and produce complete epidermolysis, restructure of the basal layer and restoration of the dermal architecture.
medical aesthetics
60 Generation A healthy and functioning skin barrier is an important protector against dehydration, penetration of various microorganisms, allergens, irritants, reactive oxygen species and radiation. The skin barrier may be specifically adjusted to allow penetration. For this reason, daily skincare may increase skin regeneration, elasticity, smoothness, and thus temporarily change the skin’s condition. Mechanical activation of the skin initiates the signalling pathways, which in turn activate the transcription of factors stimulating gene expression that causes a cascade of events, which results in an increased mitotic activity and collagen synthesis. Changes in the skin tissue occurring during dermatological treatments initiate these paths that also increase the mitotic activity and the synthesis of collagen. However, if external stimuli such as mechanical stress reach sufficiently large values, they may cause irreversible deformation and damage to the skin, resulting in a loss of its mechanical properties. In order to achieve cellular longevity and amplified cellular e n e r g y,
the cell metabolic activity should function at an optimal state. The main source of cellular energy is the mitochondrion. A skin cell, such as a fibroblast or a keratinocyte, can typically contain anything between 100 – 2000 mitochondria that produce a molecule Adenosine triphosphate (ATP), which provides energy for a cell during mitotic activity and enhances cell turnover time.
Homeostasis The body's temperature is tuned to approximately 37 degrees Celsius, which allows the body's biological enzymes to function at optimum level. Skin functions in homeostasis include protection, regulation of body temperature, sensory reception, water balance, synthesis of vitamins and hormones, and absorption of materials. The skin's primary functions are to serve as a barrier to the entry of microbes and viruses, and to prevent water and extracellular fluid loss. Acidic secretions from skin glands also retard the growth of fungi. Melanocytes form a second barrier: protection from the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation. When a microbe penetrates the skin (or when the skin is breached by a cut), the inflammatory response occurs. Heat
and cold receptors are located in the skin. When the body temperature rises, the hypothalamus sends a nerve signal to the sweat-producing skin glands, causing them to release about one to two litres of water per hour, cooling the body. The hypothalamus also causes dilation of the blood vessels of the skin, allowing more blood to flow into those areas, causing heat to be transferred away from the skin surface. When body temperature falls, the sweat glands constrict and sweat production decreases. Water loss occurs in the skin by means of evaporation and seating. In hot weather up to four litres per hour can be lost by these mechanisms. Skin damaged by burns is less effective at preventing fluid loss, often resulting in a possibly life threatening problem if not treated. Collagen fibres should make up to 90% of the dermis, of which the composition of Collagen –I is 8590% and Collagen-III is 8-11%. The overall collagen content per unit area of the skin surface is known to decline approximately 1% per year. Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are among the primary dermal skin matrix constituents assisting in binding water. In photo-aged skin, GAGs may be associated with abnormal elastotic material and thus be unable to function effectively. The total hyaluronic acid (HA) level in the dermis of skin that age intrinsically remains stable; however, epidermal HA diminishes markedly. PB Dr Judey Pretorius is a biochemical scientist and product development specialist, experienced in the disciplines of acute, chronic and post-surgical wound healing, regenerative medicine, and cell therapy. She is the co-founder of biotechnology company, Biomedical Emporium.
Professional Beauty July 2017
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product news
61 Lashing out Ultimate Lash is a keratin based lash lift that brings out the beauty in any client’s natural lashes. There are no fake lash extensions, perms or curls involved; the product simply lifts, boosts, repairs and restores the natural lashes and nourishes them with keratin solutions. Once colour is added, the client gets their ‘Utimate Lashes’.
082 925 0590
In the market Our round-up of new products and treatments.
From nature
Lift off
The 92% Aloe Vera Soothing and Moisturizing Gel from Nature Republic, which contains California CCOF Certified Organic Aloe Vera, features Fresh Drying Technology, and is antiinflammatory anti-viral, anti-bacterial, antifungal and anti-septic. This 92% Aloe Vera gel extract contains vitamins E, C and other minerals, which absorb quickly into the skin.
Dermalogica’s Stress Positive Eye Lift visibly reduces the appearance of puffiness and dark circles, instantly brightens and lifts the eye area, helping restore the skin barrier. A cooling massage applicator energises skin and can be used with dermalogica’s 3-step Eye Lift DIY to intensify results. Ingredients include wild indigo seed, seawater extract and Arctic algae.
012 809 1281
011 268 0018
R
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Professional Beauty July 2017
product news
62 Bright eyes Available from 1 August, Exuviance’s DePuffing Eye Serum has a stainless steel roller ball that gently massages the delicate eye area, while promoting circulation and drainage. US patented NeoGlucosamine picks up the slack, providing a supportive cushion for collagen and elastin, firming and toning both eyelid and under-eye droopiness over time.
011 545 9300
To the rescue! SOS Rescue Oil from pHformula is a dual-phase product that is a unique combination of oil blends and natural sourced actives, infusing the skin with a healthy glow and youthfulness. Collagen production improves and softens the look of fine lines and wrinkles, while visibly firming the skin. It provides natural skin barrier protection.
082 338 2368
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Professional Beauty July 2017
saahsp
64 South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals
Cidesco Section South Africa
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
‘Total Guest Experience’ guidelines launched CIDESCO, The World Standard of Beauty & Spa Therapy, has introduced guidelines on how to deliver the ‘Total Guest Experience’.
T
he ‘Total Guest Experience’ guidelines form part of CIDESCO’s recent introduction of a series of special months and awareness days to encourage its members to continually educate and improve their own careers, staff and businesses. Says CIDESCO president, AnnaCari Gund: “Our guest’s experience should be at the forefront of our mind at all times. Even when you continually perform treatments to a high standard and maintain a positive reputation, it is important to keep evaluating your service to make sure it’s the best possible, improving not only your ‘Total Guest Experience’ but also raising the bar and standards in our ever developing industry.”
Here are CIDESCO’S Ten Top Tips to implement each day: Remember to keep the quality of your mind-set front of mind throughout the day. For instance, ask yourself the following questions: How am I feeling? Do I have lots of positive energy? With any problem remember that you have only two options: (i) to improve your perspective; and (ii) to remove yourself from the problem. Try to focus on the present. When you’re totally in the moment, delivering a treatment, both you and your guests have the most rewarding experience. First impressions really do count so ensure that your appearance and the attitude you project is presenting yourself in the best way – a way that you wish to be remembered and recognised.
Professional Beauty July 2017
Remembering details about your guest’s last visit can help them to feel more relaxed and cared for – even the smallest detail about a conversation can help. Go one step beyond what is expected, which will not be the same with every guest but will be noted by each. Support your team in front of your guest or refer to the services of a peer, which will remind your guest that there is an entire team dedicated to their experience. Taking sufficient breaks isn’t just important for the physical quality of the treatment and your concentration but also for your energy and social efforts. A genuine compliment should always be shared – you can help your guests to feel good in many ways. Your final words can have a lasting effect, especially after delivering a treatment on a guest. Be sure to make them count.
Joining SAAHSP as a Professional Member or Corporate Member is as easy as 1-2-3. Contact us today to get your Membership Application Forms or download them from the website: www.saahsp.com
Cidesco Section South Africa
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