June 2015
www.probeauty.co.za
Peel appeal Peeling unpacked
Moisture madness
Combatting winter skin
Pitch perfect How to display retail
Nobody nose
Non-invasive rhinoplasty
BabyMama Pregnancy treatments
21
30
In this issue... Regulars
Spa Focus
5 Industry news
24 Safe house
Local and international news
52 Hair news
What’s hot and happening in the hair industry
62 Product news
All the latest launches
63 SAAHSP
The latest news from SAAHSP
Business 13 Insider Salon/Insider Spa
Tracking the industry with stats
14 Ask the experts
All your questions answered
18 The showcase
How to display retail to best advantage
21 The art of rebooking
Ensuring that next appointment
22 Cosmetic product labelling in the EU
What to include on labels
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Health and safety in the spa
28 New spa is all ‘a-glow’
Urban Glow Day Spa Randburg
59
Medical Aesthetics 59 The alternative nose job
Non-invasive rhinoplasty
Nails 55 Nail the sale
Retail tips
Features
43
30 The winter equation
Treating dehydrated skin
39 Hydrating facials
Treatment reviews
43 Bun in the oven
Pampering pregnant clients
44 Pregnant pause
Products designed for pregnancy
48 Face off!
The latest on peeling
51 Gently does it
Peeling after care
Professional Beauty June 2015
Welcome
T
his issue of Professional Beauty will also be distributed at the Professional Beauty Cape Town Show, which takes place at the CTICC on 28 and 29 June, guaranteeing an even wider distribution of the magazine than usual.
As you will read in the Industry News section, the Cape Town show will, for the first time, include an exciting nail workshop – dubbed the ‘Educationail Workshop’ – which, we believe, is an important event for local nail technicians to attend in order to learn about the latest trends and techniques and to network with each other. As any spa owner or salon owner will know, retail sales should ideally contribute a significant percentage to overall turnover. Therapists’ selling skills aside, it is vital that your wares are displayed in such a way as to attract clients’ attraction. Helena van der Vyver provides some valuable information on how to get the most from your retail display. An underserviced market in terms of salon treatments is that of pregnant women and it is probably not that surprising, considering that only specialised treatments are suitable for this demographic, as the safety of the unborn child is of paramount importance. In this issue we include a special feature on suitable treatments and products for pregnant and post-partum women. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
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Professional Beauty June 2015
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industry news
News
5
All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.
Kalahari breaks into US market South African skincare brand Kalahari is expanding into the American market, through representation on one of the nation’s largest Home Shopping Channels.
S
ays Kalahari’s Carina Franck: “Our partners in the US have expressed great excitement about working with an authentically South African brand, and are almost ready to launch Kalahari’s mediarich web portal. We look forward to extending our global footprint with them this year.” Kalahari is already sold in Norway, Finland, Sweden, Denmark, Estonia, Switzerland, Nigeria, Namibia and Kenya. Franck notes that there are stringent regulatory tests that products have
to undergo in order to be sold in the US. “Thankfully though, all Kalahari products are already EU-compliant, so we already have everything in place to meet FDA (Federal Drugs Administration) requirements. “Kalahari is a photo-effective product range formulated from African botanical extracts and oils that restore the skin to its natural beauty. Our iconic packaging sets Kalahari apart from other skincare products, and was one of the reasons that the US Shopping Channel fell in love with our brand.”
Top Dermalogica stockists go to Vegas Thirteen Dermalogica skincare centres in South Africa, four of which are Sorbet salons, will attend the 2015 Dermalogica Congress, which runs from 8 - 12 August in Las Vegas. Over 2 500 skin therapists from over 60 countries are expected to attend the Congress. Says Natasha Proksch, Dermalogica’s national marketing manager for South Africa: “As per this year’s incentive scheme, we judged our skincare centres on achieving growth on congress targets set, as well as driving education with their therapists and supporting Dermalogica with limited offers and new launches. “The owners of our top skincare centres are attending the congress but in many instances they are bringing their therapists on their own personal account. We will have a total of 80 delegates from South Africa attending the congress.”
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Dermalogica skincare centres packing their bags for Las Vegas are: Jennifer Eales Skin Care Clinic (KwaZulu-Natal); The Cure Nail & Skin Care (KwaZulu-Natal); Perfect 10 – Chatsworth (KwaZulu-Natal); The View Boutique Hotel and Spa (KwaZulu-Natal); Amara’s Health Spa (Zimbabwe); Urban Escape (Gauteng); Skinphd Hair And Beauty (Pretoria); Cosmoderm (Bloemfontein); M-Kem Skincare Clinic (Cape Town); Sorbet – Blairgowrie (Johannesburg); Sorbet – Douglasdale (Johannesburg); Sorbet – Kyalami (Johannesburg); and Sorbet – Paulshof (Johannesburg).
Carina Franck
News in pictures
Elemis won the Best New Everyday Skincare Product Prestige Award for its Pro Collagen Marine Cream Ultra-Rich Moisturiser at the recent CEW (Cosmetic Executive Women) Awards in London. Pictured are Noella Gabriel, Elemis’ director of product and treatment development and marketing director, Oriele Frank.
Professional Beauty June 2015
industry news
6 News in brief ■ Vita Liberata triumphs again: Tanning brand Vita Liberata has won its second Queen’s Award for Enterprise for its strength in international trade. It is the first beauty brand to win the award for two consecutive years.
Sorbet Drybar adds to its stable ■ Dermalogica Woodlands opens: The fifth of Dermalogica’s Concept Stores in South Africa, Dermalogica Woodlands, opened its doors on 24 April at the Woodlands Boulevard Shopping Centre in Pretoria.
The seventh salon in the Sorbet Drybar franchise opened in Killarney, Johannesburg, at the beginning of May.
E
ssentially a salon that offers hair wash / blow-dry, nail and makeup services, the Sorbet Drybar concept has really taken off since the pilot Drybar opened in Dunkeld West in August 2012. There are now Drybars in Bedford Centre, Forest Hill, Greenstone and Hurlingham. To date there is only one Drybar in Cape Town, namely Tygervalley. Sam McIntosh is the owner of Sorbet Drybar Killarney, which is located at Shop 81, Killarney Mall, Riviera Road. Says Sorbet marketing coordinator
Courtney Fuhr: “Sam also owns the Sorbet Salon at Killarney, which is one of the Sorbet Group’s most successful stores. It’s been such a fantastic store for Sam, with an ever-expanding guest base, so she identified the need for a Drybar next door to the salon to offer her guests a quick in-and-out convenient hair service. Sam also owns the Sorbet Salon at Melrose Arch, so she really understands the Sorbet guest profile.”
The ‘best’ appointment Best Lasers, sole distributor of Alma Lasers in sub-Saharan Africa, has appointed Nicola Steenkamp to handle sales in Cape Town.
Professional Beauty June 2015
■ New moves at SkinTECH: Christopher Fraser has been appointed sales representative at SkinTECH Dermatology Supplies. ■ World Spa & Wellness Awards: Entries for the World Spa & Wellness Awards close on 23 June. Winners will be announced at a black-tie gala dinner at The Brewery, in the City of London on 28 February next year. For more info visit www.professionalspawellness. com ■ Virgin Active Sold to SA company: South African investment company Brait has acquired an 80% share of spa and gym chain Virgin Active, with the remaining 20% retained by the Virgin Group. ■ Craik Speirs adds skincare brand: Two Craik Speirs Hair and Beauty stores in KZN (KwaZuluNatal) have taken on the Dermalogica brand.
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industry news
9
New SA brand launches May saw the launch of South African cosmeceutical brand, Dr. Dermal, developed by a dermatologist, a plastic surgeon and international award-winning chemists.
T
he range launched with three products – Total Rejuvenation Plasma, Total Rejuvenation Facial Mask, and Texture Correction Pads.
Buddy Reardon
National marketing manager Buddy Reardon notes that the Dr. Dermal team chose to focus on these three products initially because they work remarkably well in synergy, fit into most skincare routines, are multi-functional and affordable. “We have several products in development for launch later this year, with more planned for future development,” says Reardon. “Our unique selling point is that we are focused on niche products that can fit into any skincare routine. We also aim to bring affordable, highly effective products with the very latest anti-ageing ingredients to the South African market. “All age groups can use Dr. Dermal. The application thereof may differ depending on different skincare conditions and this is the main reason why we are not selling online, as it is our belief that clients need to be assessed by a qualified skincare professional.”
News in pictures
Professional Beauty, organiser of the International Spa Convention (30 & 31 August 2015, Gallagher Estate), held an industry brainstorming meeting on 14 May, hosted by conference director Marisa Dimitriadis.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
The Dr Dermal team conducted a 30-day clinical trial in Durban with a group of 18 people varying across different skin types and ages. “We used a complexion analysis device and observed the following averages post-trial: 42% pore reduction, 55% wrinkle reduction and 67% texture improvement,” concludes Reardon.
Poise announces new additions
Kristly McCarthy
Liza-Marie Prinsloo
Poise Brands recently appointed Kristly McCarthy as in-house marketing and PR coordinator, responsible for overseeing all marketing initiatives for Juliette Armand, Mio and Mama Mio Skincare. McCarthy has eight years of experience in marketing, communications and media, and has worked on several high-end beauty brands over the past few years. Thanks to substantial growth in KZN (KwaZulu-Natal), Poise Brands has announced the appointment of Liza-Marie Prinsloo as KZN product educator for Mio Skincare, Mama Mio and Juliette Armand. Prinsloo studied at Camelot International Durban, where she discovered her passion for teaching and training.
Professional Beauty June 2015
industry news
10
Bamboo Concept Store opens The first ever Bamboo Beauty Intelligence Concept Store opened on 1 May at Square@ Midstream in Olifantsfontein, Gauteng.
O
wners Tracey Steynberg and Leandra Schutte identified the Midstream area as a prime location for the store. Says Schutte: “The Midstream Group of residential estates, as well as the surrounding estates, is growing and we saw a need from residents to fulfil their beauty and grooming requirements. The Midstream Group comprises Midstream, Midfield, Midfield, Midstream Hill, Midstream Ridge and Retire @ Midstream. We also cater to residents in the surrounding areas.” Schutte has been involved in the beauty industry for 15 years, including the spa management arena. Steynberg has 11 years of experience, with her roots in the Berkeley Health Club and Spa.
The Bamboo Beauty Intelligence store is 126m2 in size and includes six treatment rooms, three manicure stations and two pedicure stations. Treatments include facials, waxing, tinting, eyelash extensions, massages, manicures and pedicures. Stephanie Naude is the store manager. Commenting on the brands on offer at the store, Steynberg says: “We chose Dermalogica because it’s a known, trusted and quality brand.
Having been exposed to the Comfort Zone brand abroad, we felt that its technology synergises luxury with results. “TheraNaka is a proudly South African brand and we love it. It has unique treatments that complement the luxurious retail range at reasonable prices. Our nail brands are Morgan Taylor, Gelish, Bio Sculpture Gel, MediHell and MediHand – all highly reputable and popular brands.”
Nail Workshop at Professional Beauty Cape Town Professional Beauty is organising its first ever Nail Workshop to be held at Professional Beauty Cape Town on Sunday 28 June at the CTICC. The workshop will be affiliated to ITEC (International Therapy Examination Council) and all delegates will receive a certificate of participation. Says workshop director Sonette van Rensburg: “Sessions at our ‘Educationail Workshop’ are designed to equip nail technicians with updated information about the industry as a whole, as well as the latest trends, techniques and products. A variety of industry experts and educators will present the sessions and we
Professional Beauty June 2015
encourage technicians of all levels to attend. “We will have live demonstrations on various nail art and enhancement application techniques. The workshop also presents a great opportunity to network.” The day will conclude with an open forum, where delegates are free to present their questions, thoughts and ideas to the panel of experts from the day’s presentations. Tickets for the workshop are available through the Professional Beauty website (www.probeauty. co.za) and are priced at R550 per person, including a light finger lunch.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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business trends
13
Insider
Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Cape Town, East London and Port Elizabeth to track business in April 2015.
36
The month in numbers
% BETTER
0
Insider Salon
% SAME
It seems as if the April holidays took a toll on some salons, with 13% of you reporting a decrease in treatment business. However, an amazing 73% of salons reported that treatment business had gone up, with most of you attributing this to the introduction of new products and treatments. Sixty-four-percent of respondents reported an increase in retail sales. Some of you said this is due to brand loyalty and customer satisfaction, while others said the April holidays affected retail sales, with 22% reporting a decrease in retail business. One respondent reported that they don’t sell retail at all. Many of you have introduced new AVERAGE skin and body treatments in the TREATMENT ROOM last two months, while 21% have OCCUPANCY launched new nail gel treatments. One salon has introduced organic spray tanning which they say is doing very well. Intimate area waxing treatments are the most popular waxing treatments for women, with facial and leg waxing following behind steadily.
57%
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN APRIL 2015 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2014?
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN APRIL 2015 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2014?
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN APRIL 2015 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2014?
73
% BETTER
13
64
% BETTER
14
% SAME
% SAME
14
22 % WORSE
% WORSE
online at www.probeauty.co.za
92
64
% BETTER
% WORSE
1
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN APRIL 2015 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2014?
% SAME
7
% WORSE
Insider Spa
An overwhelming number of you reported an increase in treatment business in April 2015 as compared to the same time last year, citing the large number of public holidays in the month as a boon for business. However, retail sales over April told a different story – with only 36% of you reporting an increase in sales. One respondent attributed her spa’s increase in retail to new therapists who were very retail focused, while another spa’s staff had recently undergone retail training, which resulted in increased retail sales. The most popular waxing treatment for women in spas polled is the intimate area (bikini waxes, Brazilian waxes, Hollywood waxes), with 54% of respondents attesting to this. Eyebrows and face are the next in popularity, with only 7% of you citing legs as the most popular waxing area. In terms of new treatments introduced – 36% of respondents have introduced a new treatment in the last six months. Two respondents reported AVERAGE TREATMENT taking on new brands, which ROOM automatically means new OCCUPANCY treatments. Examples of some of the new treatments introduced by spas include fat freezing and micro needling.
60%
Professional Beauty June 2015
business tips
14
Ask the experts Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
Building
relationships
Pic: http://argecom.e-monsite.com/
What is so special about Argan oil and how can I explain the benefits to my clients?
T
he Moroccans traditionally use unroasted Argan oil to treat skin diseases, such as dry skin, acne, eczema, wrinkles and skin inflammation. It was also used to prevent hair loss and dry hair. Argan oil restores, repairs and renews the skin and hair. It is extremely rich in essential nutrients, such as Vitamin E and unsaturated fatty acids, and contains 80% of essential fatty acids in its overall composition. These fatty acids have antioxidant and moisturising properties which are vital for repairing cell membranes. Together with the composition of prostaglandins, polyphenols, ferulic acid, carotenoids and sterols, Argan oil has the reputation of being anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antiageing, anti-allergic and antioxidant. In this way it helps to maintain healthy skin and hair and protects the hair against heat and harmful agents. The sterols within the Argan oil are immediately absorbed into the skin and hair, thus healing the skin and hair follicles from within.
Karen Botha is marketing & sales manager at Inoar Professional. She has a B.Com Marketing Management and 10 years of work experience on both national and international level.
How can PR benefit my spa or salon?
B
y definition, PR is public relations. In practice, it’s a method of communication. Sending out a traditional press release, holding an event, utilising social media, or even creating an experiential treatment for the purposes of product sampling are all forms of PR. These methods of PR should be designed to create awareness, engage with media and build a relationship with the influencer to whom you are talking. The end result is to generate coverage which reaches your potential target audience and leads to sales. Social media allows you to control your own communication channel, rather than relying on the media for coverage. Creating and managing a social media page means being responsible for curating meaningful content that builds a community of loyal followers who enjoy your content. PR is the world’s fastest-growing form of marketing. Why? Because it’s cost-effective, and, if done correctly, it offers your brand/spa the opportunity for broad-reaching coverage.
Daniel Calbacho is the founder and brand building director of communication agency RED Marketing. He was previously the Marketing Manager of Guess South Africa.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty June 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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business tips
18
The showcase
Your retail area reflects the professional image of your spa or salon and plays a vital role in delivering retail sales, writes Helena van der Vyver.
T
he retail area shouldn’t be treated as an afterthought, but as the vital component it is to your business. Keep it visible, inviting and accessible. If your customer can’t see or examine your retail, they will be less inclined to purchase. Stock should be neatly arranged, with displays clean and sufficiently stocked at all times. Designate one person for this task or rotate responsibility. Depending on your sales traffic, stock that sells well should be kept at a minimum of four to six units, with the remaining stock kept at a minimum of three or more. Being low on stock or sold out risks losing sales. If retail space is limited ensure that you have sufficient storage space.
Less is more Avoid clutter and create quiet and muted retail spaces. Shoppers are drawn to uncomplicated displays that tell a story.
Arrange items well. You can keep product lines together, for example sun products, hydrating products, anti-ageing products, etc. Alternatively, group cleansers, toners, serums, creams, etc. together. Arrange colour to promote sales. Neutral hues provide a blank canvas for creative merchandising. Prop to retail ratio should be 20% to 80%. Take advantage of collateral material and displays provided by your product suppliers. Change retail sections regularly to keep stock looking fresh and to secure customer attention at least twice per year, or with every change of season. It can change as frequently as four to six weeks. Following any sales, as products are removed, immediately fill empty spaces. Always sell from the front and replace stock from the back.
Hot spot Create a hot spot, for example at the check-out desk, to display your seasonal promotions, a new product
Professional Beauty June 2015
or impulse product. They will grab clients’ attention during check-out and clients will start looking out for the current ‘hot’ product. Fifteen to twenty percent of your spa space should be allocated to retail. Retail areas can also be situated in between treatment rooms, near relaxation areas and outside the bathroom, for clients to view when they linger or as they pass. Customers need to see something five times, from the time they enter the salon/spa, until they check out, in order to activate the impression in their minds, eg. window display, front desk, change room, mani/pedi station, etc. You can use tent cards, displays, empty boxes and ensure that you display the product name, benefit and price.
Eye level It is essential to keep products at eye level; avoid shelves that are too high or low as people tend to ignore these areas. Bottom shelves don’t sell well so display gift sets, travel packs, etc. here.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
19 With each collection have a product focus per month/week, depending on foot traffic. Introduce new products this way, including a frame with information next to the product. All products should be priced. Some people recommend shelf talkers to help customers to understand your products or to give recommendations. Others are of the opinion that 93% of spa/salon clients’ decisions to buy home care are based on the spa therapist’s recommendation. People buy from people not shelf talkers. However shelf talkers can work to promote specific products, eg. ’Get X when you buy Y through June 2015’. Graphics should match the spa/salon style and maintain branding. Don’t position retail too far from the entrance. This makes it difficult for clients who just want to stop by to replenish a product. It is said that the retail ‘sweet spot’ is the first 15 to 20 square metres of the spa/salon, which makes for the most productive part of the selling floor.
Keep retail areas open and avoid keeping them locked up behind glass or counters. Allow ‘play’ areas with samples, testers, pamphlets and DVDs to provide product information, etc.
Illuminating the display If your lighting is too dim your retail won’t be visible. People naturally move from darker to lighter areas. Guide them into retail areas with lighting cues. Products should be kept out of direct sunlight. Keep retail areas open and avoid keeping them locked up behind glass or counters. Allow ‘play’ areas with samples, testers, pamphlets and DVDs to provide product information, etc. In this manner a sensory connection is made with the product. Senses can further be stimulated with evocative spa/salon images, and aromas created with a fragrance burning among displays to draw the customers’ attention. Finally, add a personal touch – let all therapists pick a weekly favourite retail product. Place a little note (bottle tag/place setting card holder) next to it with the message ‘Mariska’s favourite’. This will catch the customer’s eye and provide reassurance that someone else is using the product and thinks it is good. If celebrities use any of the products they can also be marked with a notice. PB
Helena van der Vyver of 1ne s.p.a has more than 20 years of experience in the salon and spa industry. She became a spa coach in 2014 for home salons, salons and spas.
Professional Beauty June 2015
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business tips
21
The art of
rebooking
A
client is leaving your spa after a treatment. She has her purse in hand, as well as a product that she has bought, and she is paying. “Thank you,” she says. “That was amazing.” “Such a pleasure, Mrs Chakane. You look wonderful. Take care.” Mrs Chakane smiles and leaves.
Deja Vu Stop right there. Rewind. Replay. “Thank you so much,” she says. “That was amazing.” ‘Such a pleasure, Mrs Chakane. You look wonderful and I’m delighted at the way your skin has responded. I’d like to see you again in four weeks. Let’s find a date that suits you.”
Secure a booking And before you know it, you have the next booking. Pre-booking your client’s next treatment fills your booking sheets and it makes life easy for your clients. They will have a sense of confidence, knowing their skin is being taken care of on a ‘long term basis’, and they will love that they don’t have to hassle to secure a booking. And of course they will experience excellent results if they come to your spa or salon for repetitive treatments. This is where the initial client consultation and client card is key. It is up to the therapist, on ‘Day One’, to obtain the client’s information, skin and body concerns and to establish his or her treatment goals. The therapist has to take control of the client’s experience, results, home care and rebooking.
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Pre-booking your client’s next treatment is vital for driving revenue and ensuring client retention, writes Debbie Merdjan.
Results I’ve developed a Strategy that I call the Four Rules for Results: • Thorough Consultation • Exceptional Treatment • Retail and home advice • Rebook and Pre-book Rebooking, by the way, is one treatment booking date. Prebooking is several treatment booking dates. Pre-booking is always the ideal. Staff must understand that they are expected to rebook or prebook clients and it should be part of their employment contract. If your employees think you do not care about rebookings, they will not care either. It is important to tell them your expectations and to monitor their figures carefully. Training and role-playing come in handy here.
Adding up Let’s look at some figures: Average Client Treatment Spend – R400 Spa Client Base – 600 clients Annual Visits – 13 Per Client Treatment Value – R5200 per year x 600 Clients = R3120000 I won’t do all the maths, but if the clients were not rebooked and came for seven treatments instead of 13, the revenue loss would be close to R1500000. That’s a huge loss for any business! You need to build a culture around increasing the number of rebookings. Remember that it is easier and cheaper to retain an existing customer than the marketing and advertising costs for attracting a new customer. Go forth. Rebook and pre-book! PB Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin care training. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.
Professional Beauty June 2015
business tips
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Cosmetic product labelling in the EU Continuing our series on what to know when breaking into the EU cosmetic products market, Tadej Feregotto looks at what information to include on labels.
L
abelling is the first aspect of the product that the consumer sees, so this is obviously a very important part of the product when it comes to sales. However, the product label is also the first thing that an inspector would see on a product, so it is also vital from the regulatory point of view. The EU cosmetics legislation (regulation 1223/2009) contains some very specific labelling requirements, which are described in article 19 of the regulation. Labelling is also a part of the product information file and it has to be uploaded to the CPNP (Cosmetic Products Notification Portal) to complete the product notification. According to the regulation, the container and the outer packaging of cosmetic products have to bear the following information in indelible, easily legible and visible lettering: the name and address of the responsible person; the country of origin, if the product is imported from countries outside of the EU; nominal content of the product at the time of packaging, given by weight or volume; date
of minimum durability or period after opening; precautions for use; batch number of manufacture or the reference for identifying the cosmetic product; function of the cosmetic product, unless it is clear from its presentation; list of ingredients (which may be indicated on the outer packaging alone). Some of these elements may also be mentioned on an enclosed or attached leaflet, label, tape, tag or card if it’s impossible to list them on the labels. In that case an open book symbol should be placed on the label, which indicates that some information about the product can be found elsewhere. Certain information on the labels needs to be translated into different languages, depending on where you intend to sell your cosmetic products. The EU consists of 28 different countries, and it has 24 official languages. Some countries even have more than one official language (for example Belgium and Finland), which complicates things even further. The information that has to be translated on the labels is the following: product function,
Professional Beauty June 2015
precautions for use, nominal content of the product, and date of minimum durability if the symbol to indicate the date of minimum durability or period after opening isn’t used. As already mentioned in some previous articles, claims are also an important part of the product, and they mostly appear on cosmetic product labels. The EU has published a separate regulation that deals specifically with cosmetic product claims, but let’s just emphasise here once again that each claim made on the cosmetic product label (unless obvious or a clear exaggeration) should be substantiated, and that claims should be in line with the definition of the cosmetic product in the EU. PB
Tadej Feregotto is CEO of CE.way Regulatory Consultants Ltd., a company that specialises in EU regulatory consulting for cosmetic products.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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Safe house By law every spa must implement health and safety measures, which need to be managed by employees who have been trained in these measures, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.
T
he Occupational Health and Safety Act of South Africa aims to provide for the health and safety of persons at the workplace and for all those who come into contact with the workplace. First and foremost, no matter how boring and timeconsuming it may seem, each and every spa owner/ manager is responsible for ensuring that they become familiar with the Health and Safety Act. Make sure you have a printed copy of the Act in your staffroom that visible for all staff members to see. I would suggest that you raise, at your weekly meetings, one or two points that relate to the Act, to ensure all staff are on the same page when it comes to the health and safety of your clients and themselves. There are three sections of the Act I would like to quote directly, but, before doing so I must stress that there has to be a minimum of one staff member on site at all times who is fully trained in First Aid. You need to take this into account if your staff are working shifts. Remember that an up-to-date First Aid qualification is one that is not older than 12 months.
Professional Beauty June 2015
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spa focus
25 Important areas to look out for in the spa are: • Wax pots that are not adequately cleaned and unsterilised implements or tools. • Spa pools and showers must be regularly and properly sterilised to prevent the transmission of diseases. • Towels and gowns that are not washed and dried properly can spread skin rashes and infections. • A spa should be as clean and sterile as a hospital operating room.
Please also ensure that you have met with a fire consultant to ensure you are fully within regulations in terms of fire escapes, ensuring that the fire escape routes are kept clear at all times. Fire extinguishers must be in working condition and regularly serviced. Ensure that on-duty staff are able to operate the fire extinguishers. Have a fire exit route and have fire drills.
The Act I’ve highlighted three sections of the Occupational Health and Safety Act below:
General duties of employers to their employees Section 8 – Every employer shall provide and maintain, as far as is reasonably practicable, a working environment that is safe and without risk to the health of his employees, including: (a) the provision and maintenance of systems of work, plant and machinery that, as far as is reasonably practicable, are safe and without risks to health; (b) taking such steps as may be reasonably practicable to eliminate or mitigate any hazard or potential hazard to the safety or health of employees, before resorting to personal protective equipment; (c) making arrangements for ensuring, as far as is reasonably practicable, the safety and absence of risks to health in connection with the production, processing, use, handling, storage or transport of articles or substances; (d) establishing, as far as is reasonably practicable, what hazards to the health or safety of persons are attached to any work which is performed, any article or substance which is produced, processed, used, handled, stored or transported and any plant or machinery which is used in his business, and he shall, as far as is reasonably practicable, further establish what precautionary measures should be taken with respect to such work, article, substance, plant or machinery in order to protect the health and safety of persons, R
Professional Beauty June 2015
spa focus
26 There has to be a minimum of one staff member on site at all times who is fully trained in First Aid.
and he shall provide the necessary means to apply such precautionary measures; (e) providing such information, instructions, training and supervision as may be necessary to ensure, as far as is reasonably practicable, the health and safety at work of his employees; (f) as far as is reasonably practicable, not permitting any employee to do any work or to produce, process, use, handle, store or transport any article or substance or to operate any plant or machinery, unless the precautionary measures contemplated in paragraphs (b) and (d), or any other precautionary measures which may be prescribed, have been taken; (g) taking all necessary measures to ensure that entire requirements of this Act are complied with by every person in his employment or on premises under his control where plant or machinery is used; (h) enforcing such measures as may be necessary in the interest of health and safety; (i) ensuring that work is performed and that plant or machinery is used under the general supervision of a person trained to understand the hazards associated with it and who have the authority to ensure that
precautionary measures taken by the employer are implemented; and
Duty to inform Section 13 – Without derogating from any specific duty imposed on an employer by this Act, every employer shall: (a) as far as is reasonably practicable, cause every employee to be made conversant with the hazards to his health and safety attached to any work which he has to perform, any article or substance which he has to produce, process, use, handle, store or transport and any plant or machinery which he is required or permitted to use, as well as with the precautionary measures which should be taken and observed with respect to those hazards; (b) inform the health and safety representatives concerned beforehand of inspections, investigations or formal inquiries of which he has been notified by an inspector, and of any application for exemption made by him in terms of section 40; and (c) inform a health and safety representative as soon as reasonably practicable of the occurrence of an incident in the workplace or section of the workplace for which such
Professional Beauty June 2015
representative has been designated.
General duties of employees at work
Section 14 – Every employee shall at work: (a) take reasonable care for the health and safety of himself and of other persons who may be affected by his acts or omissions; (b) as regards any duty or requirement imposed on his employer or any other person by this Act, cooperate with such employer or person to enable that duty or requirement to be performed or complied with; (c) carry out any lawful order given to him, and obey the health and safety rules and procedures laid down by his employer or by anyone authorised thereto by his employer, in the interests of health or safety; (d) if any situation which is unsafe or unhealthy comes to his attention, as soon as practicable report such situation to his employer or to the health and safety representative for his workplace or section thereof, as the case may be, who shall report it to the employer; and (e) if he is involved in any incident which may affect his health or which has caused an injury to himself, report such incident to his employer or to anyone authorised thereto by the employer, or to his health and safety representative, as soon as practicable. Remember that it is your duty and responsibility to make sure your staff and clients are safe in your premises, so be prepared. PB
Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.
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spa focus
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New spa is all ‘a-glow’ Building on the success of the award-winning Urban Glow Day Spa in Boksburg, the new Randburg branch boasts some subtle differences, while remaining true to the brand’s core values ofexcellence, innovation and value for money writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
T
he winner of the 2014 Professional Beauty Day Spa of the Year Award, Urban Glow Day Spa Boksburg was opened in April of that year by Lizel van der Sandt. On 1 February this year, Van der Sandt opened the new branch in Randpark Ridge, Randburg. As of May this year, the new owner of Urban Glow Randburg is Olivia Ryder. She is also a 50/50 partner in Urban Glow Boksburg with sister, Leah Livanos-Henderson. “Urban Glow Randburg is two and a half times the size of the Boksburg spa, which is characterised by its vibrant
colour scheme,” explains Ryder. “I would describe the Randburg branch as a more tranquil environment, with natural tones. Sitting in the relaxation lounge and the pedicure lounge, you are surrounded by visuals of trees and you feel like you are in the Knysna forests. “There is LED lighting and a dedicated sound system in each room so that clients can choose what they would like to listen to.” Another differentiating factor between the two spas is that all 11 treatment rooms at Randburg have their own serenity garden, so that clients who book in for full-day or half-
Professional Beauty June 2015
day packages can really relax in their own personal space. Unusually for a spa, Urban Glow Randburg offers hair services, with eight hair stations. Ryder’s goal is to have a stylist for each bay. At the time of going to press, two hair stylists were on board.
Facilities Urban Glow Randburg was created out of a pre-existing spa – Serenity Day Spa – which came with a Rasul chamber and a flotation tank. “These were big selling points for me, as it vital to have these types of facilities in order to have a full service
online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
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Spa at a glance Owner: Olivia Ryder Opened: 1 February 2015 Location: Trinity Village, Shop 101, c/o Beyers Naude & Eastwood, Randpark Ridge Facilities: Rasul chamber, flotation tank, relaxation area, serenity gardens Number of treatment rooms: 11, including 3 couples’ rooms Number of full-time therapists: 7 Brands: Six, Nimue, Dermalogica, OPI gel, acrylic and polish, Koebana spray tan, Spalicious, Paul Mitchell
offering as a 5-star spa these days,” comments Ryder. She notes that the spa currently has seven full-time therapists – a number Ryder is looking to increase by five. She also employs three parttime therapists. Although there has been a steady flow of business since Valentine’s Day, Ryder and her team are working really hard to step it up as the spa is still new and the winter season is traditionally slow for spas. “But we are very excited and confident that we are just going to grow from strength to strength,” she states. “I believe we combine the convenience and speed of a beauty salon with the tranquillity of destination of a spa. We have a fully loaded treatment menu and product offering and follow international trends, to ensure that even the most discerning spa-goer is given everything they want and need.” PB
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty June 2015
dehydrated skin
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The winter equation Winter = dry air = dehydrated skin = unhappy client. Apart from the discomfort of dry, cracked skin, low moisture levels in the skin can also contribute to the skin’s ageing process, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
C
arina Franck of Kalahari Professional Products recommends the brand’s Facial Massage Butter to treat dehydrated skin. She describes it as a nourishing treatment that also offers the ideal slip for facial massage. “The phyto-effective blend of botanical extracts includes Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter and Kalahari Melon Seed Oil; all these offer excellent hydration while protecting the skin against transepidermal moisture loss,” says Franck. She goes on to explain that the Honey
Bush Soufflé Mask deeply nourishes dry or dehydrated skin. “A blend of Kalahari Melon Seed Oil, Shea Butter and Grape Seed Oil maximises hydration of the epidermis, enhances the suppleness of the skin and stimulates collagen production. Antioxidant rich botanical extracts protect against free radical damage while smoothing and refining fine lines. “You can lock in moisture with our phyto-effective Facial Mist. We blend natural spring water with seven superior botanical extracts, including Aloe Leaf, Rooibos and Cucumber extracts. These
Professional Beauty June 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
dehydrated skin
31 provide natural protection against trans-epidermal water loss, while refreshing and cooling the skin,” says Franck.
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In the buff The Mio Double Buff Dual Action Enzyme Exfoliator is a dual action body scrub, to be used before moisturising to instantly transform rough, dull skin thanks to various fruit extracts, organic sweet almond oil and bamboo stem extract among others. Mio’s Future Proof Firming Body Butter seals the deal by providing resilience and fighting free radicals to keep the skin strong and supple with a healthy 24-hour glow. For best results, therapists should use deep, upward strokes toward the heart.
Hyaluronic acid The experts at optiphi believe that a very important ingredient to look out for in the winter months is hyaluronic acid. They say: “This compound is a major natural component of the skin and plays an important role in tissue repair and maintaining skin firmness and structure. You can reinstate intense and lasting skin moisture with optiphi’s Hyaluronic Acid Active-Complex Masque. This masque has active benefits such as skin plumping, reinstating and rebalancing cellular metabolism and providing peak hydration for your skin.” To ensure that the skin’s moisture balance is at optimal levels, optiphi’s new moisturiser nourishes with vitamins and minerals, limits skin dehydration and provides the skin with long-lasting, intense hydration. Active benefits include skin-plumping, reinstating and rebalancing cellular metabolism and peak skin moisture content. R
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Professional Beauty June 2015
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and feeling dehydrated. Moisturiser Rx helps in cases of xerotic eczema and xerotic dermatitis conditions, which are significantly relieved on application,” comments Hunt. “The occlusive ingredients have been shown to reduce water loss by 98%, proving to be an effective humectant, whereas oils only manage 20-30% in water loss reduction.”
What to avoid If skin is dehydrated one must avoid products containing ethanol/alcohol as this will exacerbate the dehydration problem and highly fragranced products can cause irritation, redness and itchiness, again compounding the dehydrated condition. So says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt, who explains that humectants attract moisture to the stratum corneum. “However, if the climate is very dry, then the moisture is actually drawn out of the skin, so be careful during dry winters. Look for emollients such as plant oils, and peptides which are now playing a significant role in maintaining a healthier, more youthful skin and. With long-term use these ingredients are seen to reverse skin damage and are a simple, effective non-invasive method of delivery into the skin.” The new RégimA Zone Age Reversal Night Complex is a deeply moisturising night treatment designed to reduce signs of ageing, revive and rejuvenate the skin whilst you sleep. Its overnight action stimulates repair to stressed and environmentally damaged skin, while imparting essential moisturisation and rejuvenation activity to smooth the skin and reduce the appearance of
Collagen power fine lines and wrinkles. For very dehydrated skins, Faucitt believes a perfect combination would include RêgimA’s Scar Repair Forte Super Strength Serum, used over the Zone Reversal Night Complex. “Hyaluronic acid is nicknamed the ‘key to the fountain of youth’ as it is the most important moisture capturing and holding substance in the body. Injectable fillers used to plump out wrinkles contain hyaluronic acid. For topical use, hyaluronic acid is now available in penetrating microspheres. The new RégimA Zone Super Smoother is the ultimate anti-ageing moisture boosting gel, designed to smooth the skin’s surface, providing unparalleled, immediate and long-term ultimate dermal and epidermal moisturisation, with instant tightening, smoothing and plumping without greasiness,” states Faucitt.
Success story DermaFix Moisturiser Rx has been a phenomenal success since its 2012 launch, according to DermaFix MD Ursula Hunt. “The sheer power of the unusual ingredients reverses the skin looking
Professional Beauty June 2015
From Elemis, the Pro-Collagen Marine Cream and the Pro-Collagen Lifting Neck & Bust Treatment help with moisture and anti-ageing on the face, neck and chest area. Pro Collagen Marine Cream was clinically proven to reduce the depth of wrinkles by up to 78% and increase hydration levels by 45% in 15 days. Says Celest Els, Elemis national training manager for South Africa: “In clinical trials Pro Collagen Lifting Neck and Bust was proven to reduce the skin’s crêpiness by 33%, increase skin firmness by 17% and increase elasticity by 14% in just 28 days.” She adds that Elemis’ Exotic Coconut Rub and Milk Ritual Wrap drenches the skin with moisture for immediate softness. “This nourishing treatment will improve the skin’s colour, texture, and clarity. The body is gently exfoliated with the exotic coconut rub that contains a traditional Balinese recipe of coconut, mung bean, spices and lavender to polish the skin. Warmed Skin Nourishing Milk Bath is then drizzled over the entire body before cocooning in a comforting wrap.” For home care, Els recommends the Frangipani Monoi oil to help R
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prevent dehydrated and dry skin. This treatment oil will provide moisture, free radical protection and will leave the skin feeling soft and smooth. The oil contains frangipani and coconut oil that solidifies at cooler temperature. This oil may be used as a body moisturiser, or as an intensely moisturising treatment on hands and feet, or as a hair treatment.
From the oceans The Thalgo Source Marine range is designed to infuse the skin with water and light using only the finest marinebased ingredients. The first of these ingredients is Sève Bleue Des Océans, which provides intense hydration and remineralisation. Thalgo’s ‘A Well of Vital Water’ ingredient ensures deep 24-hour hydration. Thirdly, Lumisource is an active ingredient that boosts the skin’s radiance and luminosity through cellular detoxification. Thalgo has created a hydrating facial named ‘Heart of the Ocean Ritual’. This professional treatment concentrates the vital force and benefits of the oceans to help restore perfect skin quality, delivering intense and lasting hydration. The ritual features professional new product formulas that are rich in remineralising powers, along with a new signature Thalgo massage inspired by the rhythmic movements of the sea. In this way the skin is replenished, deeply hydrated, smooth and radiant. Retail products from the Thalgo Source Marine range include Absolute Hydra-Marine Concentrate (an intensive seven-day treatment designed to be the perfect winter ‘shooter’ for the skin). It contains a
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high concentration of hyaluronic acid. There is also Hydra-Marine Serum, an ‘SOS’ radiance rescue formula and the perfect companion to the Absolute Hydra-Marine Concentrate. Its crystalline gel targets all causes of loss of radiance at the source to help restore the complexion’s original glow and luminosity. Ultra Hydra-Marine Mask is a fiveminute express skin-re-plumping radiance booster that instantly quenches the skin’s thirst, along with Sève Bleue Des Oceans, which relaunches the natural hydration process.
a nourishing cream for mature, dry and stressed skin that is especially recommended as a night-time moisturiser during winter months. Also from QMS, Cellular Marine is an intensive anti-ageing cream based on the revolutionary technology that harnesses the power of stem cells from the Sea Fennel plant. R
Round the clock QMS Medicosmetics’ 24H. Cream is a comforting cream for dry and dehydrated skin conditions. This 24hour moisturising and protective cream contains SPF6. The QMS Moisturising Balance is
Professional Beauty June 2015
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Highly effective during the day or night, Cellular Marine enhances the stimulation of new skin cells and improves metabolism to leave skin radiant. With every application, the life span of the skin stem cells will be significantly extended and skin ageing decelerated. The QMS Pearltouch Duo is a deeply moisturising skin identical cream without emulsifiers, stabilisers and other chemical additives. The water-free formulation ensures the most effective penetration of the ingredients, even in extreme temperatures. The exclusive concept of active ingredients is based on natural substances from pure silk protein and precious pearl extracts from Japan, all of which replenish precious moisture deposits.
Mud scrub The Baobab tree is fondly called the ‘Tree of Life’. Its kernels, contained within the Baobab fruit pod, yield a rich, golden scented oil traditionally used by African women to protect their beautiful skin against the harsh African savannah environment. The oil has strong natural moisturising properties and is commonly used to both prevent and cure dry skin conditions of the face and body. MatsiMela’s Baobab Seed Exfoliating Mud Scrub is a product with a difference as the effect it has on the skin is exfoliating – thanks to the natural silica. Its small particle size results in a smooth and polished exfoliation. Excellent for repairing and maintaining dry skin, MatsiMela’s Baobab Seed Tissue oil contains natural Vitamin E oil, which aids in better absorption. In addition the product contains 10% baobab oil, renowned for its excellent moisturising properties. Wheat germ oil, which is naturally high in Vitamin E, is also included in the formulation. The combination of these oils moisturises the skin and keeps it soft and beautiful.
For the eyes The sensitive thin layer of skin around the eye presents a complex problem in lasting hydration without clogging and blocking the pores, particularly in winter, says Kerryne Neufeldt of iSlices. “In answer to this challenge, we have developed the eyeSlices therapeutic eye treatment pads that provide an instant hydration effect of 12 times to the skin to improve the appearance of signs of ageing, tiredness and redness, as well as puffiness and dark circles. “eyeSlices combine Cryogel Technology, Saccharide Isomerate and Aloe Ferox. Saccharide Isomerate is derived from the D-glucose of wheat and is similar to that of the carbohydrate complex found in human skin. Natural-lasting skin hydration proceeds from the inside out, with the underlying layers of the skin supplying sufficient moisture upwards. Saccharide Isomerate mimics this. It not only binds moisture to the cells like a water magnet, ensuring that moisture is retained by the cells, but continues to regulate moisture in the skin by acting as a barrier, locking in moisture for longer from the inside out, even under conditions of low humidity,” explains Neufeldt. She goes on to say that Aloe Ferox from the Cape Aloe, when used in gel form, demonstrates remarkable healing properties,
Professional Beauty June 2015
including anti-inflammatory and immune modulating activities as well as antibacterial and antiviral properties. “Another game-changer comes in the form of Cryogel Technology,” comments Neufeldt. “This is a dermal delivery system that helps to transport these ingredients and moisture effectively into the skin. “By understanding the natural process of hydration and closely replicating it in product form, hydrated beautiful skin is fast becoming a dream come true.” PB
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treatment review - hydrating facial
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Thirsty skin finds relief The Anesi Aqua Vital Hydro Nutrition facial proves to be just the thing for dehydrated skin, as Belinda Wewege discovers.
I
was fascinated to discover that my facial would be preceded by an in-depth skin analysis using Anesi’s SkinView diagnostic device, launched at last year’s Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show. Said Yolandi Mestre, Anesi Brand Manager: Anesi Skin and Body, at Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS): “SkinView has generated a lot of interest in the industry, and we have already sold several units to Anesi stockists in South Africa, as well as to a client in Zimbabwe.” The SkinView is the size of a cellphone and has an incredibly powerful camera that allows the therapist to accurately analyse your skin in terms of hydration and elasticity, oiliness, pore size, melanin levels, wrinkles and broken capillaries. My SkinView analysis revealed a very dehydrated skin with low elasticity, as well as large pore size. “The Aqua Vital Hydro Nutrition facial was specifically developed to address dehydrated skin,” noted Mestre. “Anesi’s Aqua Vital range is based on nanotechnology and incorporates two of our flagship ingredients – 3D Hydra Acqua
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Polarsome (APS) and Celldetox. The former comprises polarised water which penetrates into the deepest layers of the skin, while Celldetox is a natural active ingredient with detoxifying properties. It boosts the cellular metabolic waste system and improves the skin’s texture and appearance.” To commence the facial, Mestre used the Fluide Démaquillant Yeux to remove my make-up. She then cleansed my skin using the Aqua Vital Dêmaquillant (a milk cleanser) and a pair of mitts. The cleansing process was completed with Anesi’s toner, the Aqua Vital Lotion. For the exfoliation process, Mestre mixed 10 grams of Anesi’s Peeling Enzymatique with 30ml of Aqua Vital Lotion. “Peeling Enzymatique contains Pineapple Stem Extract, one of the best enzymes for stimulating rejuvenation,” stated Mestre. After five minutes, she added a bit of water to emulsify the peel for easy removal with mitts. Aqua Vital Lotion was applied to balance the skin’s pH level. Next, Mestre massaged into my skin the Huile Soie Confort, a rich and extremely nourishing serum. Once
my skin had absorbed the serum, the Masque Vidalys was applied. This felt cool and soothing and was left on for 15 minutes, during which time Mestre massaged my neck and face. My skin absorbed most of the masque, clearly indicating exactly how dehydrated it had been. The last two stages of the treatment were the application of Aqua Vital Serum, which contains Anesi’s highest percentage of active ingredients, and the Aqua Vital Crême Confort, a hydrating cream. A post treatment SkinView analysis showed that my hydration had increased dramatically, from 7% to 37%. Elasticity went from 5% to 30%; pore size reduced from 80% to 46%; and the lines around my eyes had reduced from 53% to 35%. The results speak for themselves! PB Contact: 0861 12 63 74
Professional Beauty June 2015
treatment review - hydrating facial
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A bumper facial The Six Sensational Facial treatment comprises a whole lot more than a traditional facial, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
O
n the treatment menu at Adamant Beauty in Boskruin, Johannesburg, The Six Sensational Facial is described as ‘the ultimate in relaxation and pampering experiences’ and that’s exactly what it is. I was delighted to learn from therapist Francis Houston that this 90-minute revitalising and hydrating facial would include a hot oil back massage and herbal compress treatment, as well as a double exfoliation hand treatment and a foot massage. Before starting the first phase of the treatment – the back massage – Houston performed the opening ritual with the calming sounds of a rain stick. She then applied the wax from the Six
Massage Candle (Pomegranate Passion) onto my back and utilised a pair of herbal infused dumplings in the first part of massage, which felt really soothing. Next came the use of hot stones to further relax the muscles. In the last part of the massage, Houston used the rain stick to smooth out knots in my shoulder muscles. The first stage of the facial was a pre-cleanse, using the Flawless Facial Cleansing Oil to remove my makeup. Following this, Houston cleansed my face with the Gentle Foaming Cleanser, and used a hot compress to rinse off my face. “I’m now going to perform a double exfoliation – first with the Cranberry Exfoliating Cream followed by the Brightening Enzyme Peel,” explained Houston. “While very gentle, this exfoliation process really smooths out the skin’s surface.” Once the Brightening Enzyme Peel had been applied, Houston turned on the steamer to open my pores. She then also applied the peel to my hands, which were put into a pair of warm mittens. This felt wonderfully comforting and relaxing. After about five minutes, Houston turned off the steamer and performed an extraction on my forehead, nose and chin. Thereafter
Professional Beauty June 2015
she applied wax from the Six Massage Candle (Pomegranate Passion) to massage my face and neck. At one stage she used cold marble stones, which felt really refreshing, to soothe the skin. Next came the Brightening Peel Off Mask, which covered the entire face, including my eyelids. This is an alginate mask and I could instantly feel its revitalising and rejuvenating effects. The mask was left on for 10 minutes, during which time Houston performed the hand and foot massages. Once she peeled off the mask, Houston applied some O2 Serum, following by the Anti-Ageing Moisturiser, which is specifically for dry and dehydrated skin. The last stage was the Maginificent Eye Gel, which was applied with the aid of the cold marble stones. This was a wonderfully pampering treatment and my skin felt really hydrated when I left the salon. PB Contact: 011 312 7840
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pregnancy
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Bun in the oven There is no time in a woman’s life when she deserves to be more pampered than when pregnant, writes Kristly McCarthy.
P
regnancy treatments can today be performed throughout pregnancy, providing many benefits. These include increasing skin elasticity, calming irritated and stressed skin, easing heavy legs and itchy skin, and releasing physical tension and discomfort in the back and shoulders. There is also the release of psychological and physiological tension through head massage. Benefits from pregnancy treatments go beyond the surface, in that they help to develop sensory and movement awareness, reduce the risk of pregnancy complications, contribute to nurturing maternal behaviour, and reduce the incidence of post-partum depression. Did you know that every seven seconds a woman falls pregnant, and approximately 80% of pregnant women suffer from back pain? Internationally, maternity spas are viewed as a necessity and prove popular among salons and spas as it makes business sense – it’s not seasonal and it’s an untapped, substantial and sustainable market. In India and Japan, massage is regarded as an essential part of a midwife’s skills. Women are traditionally given a regular massage during pregnancy and, then for 40 days after birth, new mothers and their babies receive a daily massage to help them recover from the physical and emotional strain of childbirth. In some ways you might say that
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a pregnancy spa treatment and massage therapy client is ‘twice’ as special, and, as such, requires the well-deserved care and handling suited to looking after an expectant mom.
Safety first While massaging a pregnant client is safe, effective prenatal techniques and pregnancy-safe, quality, products must be used. Also be sure to read through the client’s medical history before undertaking treatments. For ease and safety, prone and supine positions are not recommended. Avoid heat application or treatment anywhere on the body that potentially elevates the maternal core temperature. While there are circumstances under which massage can’t be performed, there are a variety of face and body treatments for pregnant and post-pregnant clientele, ranging from leg treatments to facials and pregnancy massage. The use of quality products that are rich in essential fatty acids, such as Omega 3 and 6, helps to nourish the lipid layer of the skin, maintaining suppleness and elasticity. Research has clinically proven that omegas help skin elasticity and
improve the very integrity of skin cells – helping skin to stretch and recover. So, just how do we embrace this market? By making your pregnant and post-partum clients welcome and ensuring that treatments are fun, glamorous and exciting. Offer variety, add-on treatments and make sure that they feel comfortable. Here is a tip from the founders of the award-winning pregnancy skincare range, Mama Mio: expecting mums should incorporate a nutritious diet and an exercise plan into their daily regime for optimum benefits. PB
Professional Beauty June 2015
pregnancy
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Pregnant pause Professional Beauty looks at treatments and products ideally suited to pregnant and post-partum women.
C
ertain chemicals can pose a serious threat to the unborn child, so therapists must be extra attentive to ensure they are using toxic-free products. “A recent toxics coalition report has identified that chemicals in certain beauty products can disrupt women’s development and hormonal systems. As a precaution, chemicals such as retinoids, which are found in many anti-ageing moisturisers, and salicylic acid, used to cleanse and treat certain skin disorders, should ideally be avoided. “Pregnant women also have to be careful with essential oils. Some oils are very stimulating and can accelerate your heart rhythm. As a consequence, the baby’s heart rate increases and this can sometimes lead to a miscarriage. It is important to be aware that, like black pepper and sage, only some essential oils have this effect,” says
Perrine Gallant, Décleor International Trainer, who notes that Decléor’s Aroma Sculpt range provides safe and effective stretch-mark treatment.
Speciality pregnancy range The Gorgeous Glow Pregnancy Facial from Mama Mio helps with hormonal breakouts. Deep cleansing and exfoliation is followed by a mind-melting facial massage and Mama Mio’s brightening serum, the Oxygenating Moisture Mask, to clarify and even out skin tone, helping with excess pigmentation. For home use, Mama Mio recommends the Gorgeous Glow
Professional Beauty June 2015
Balancing Facial Wash, which is perfect for fighting blemishes with safe, gentle exfoliants and tea tree extract. It also balances with probiotics and moisturises with organic omegas. The Mama Mio Pregnancy Massage is a completely relaxing full body massage using Mama Mio’s safe but effective prenatal techniques and its awardwinning Omega-rich oils to relax lower back muscles. This treatment includes a neck and head massage and the unique Yummy Tummy elasticising mask. Also from Mama Mio is the Lucky Legs Lighten Up treatment – a mineral-rich foot soak, exfoliation and massage for lower legs and feet to help with poor circulation, water retention and the tiring effects of pregnancy.
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pregnancy
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Massage techniques Elemis uses tried and tested massage techniques that are combined and adapted to each stage of pregnancy. Japanese Camellia oil is the massage medium and ensures ultimate hydration of the skin and helps prevent stretch marks. It is also ideal as a home-care body moisturiser and can be applied over the bust, tummy, buttocks and thighs. Japanese Camellia body oil contains sweet almond oil, also making it perfect for baby massage. The Elemis treatment includes massage on the back, legs, hand and arms, followed by a foot massage and the application of instant refreshing gel. A facial massage is performed with Elemis’ Cellular Recovery Skin Bliss Capsules. The treat is finished off with a scalp massage with the option of a skin-nourishing milk bath to treat the dry scalp to help hydrate and nourish the skin.
Skin traumas Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA points out that more than one out of every two pregnant women can expect to develop acne within the first trimester, particularly if they suffered from acne in their youth. Says Faucitt: “RégimA peels have proven to be most effective and safe during pregnancy to help treat and prevent potential skin ‘horrors’, not only for the face but areas where the skin may be showing signs of stretching. “The Zone Derma Zest Cleansing & Toning Gel can have an impact on oily, blocked pores, while Zone Pigment Perfector contains the very latest high technology actives, safely controlling any hyperpigmentation. Scar Repair Forté Super Strength Serum is multifunctional and can be a ‘life saver’ for any inflammation and acne flare-ups, as well as preventing and treating stretch marks.”
Restoring elasticity Elim BodyScience is a brand perfectly suited to pregnancy and post-pregnancy to shape, tighten and improve the body’s elasticity due to its oil-protecting and elasticity-restoring properties. The Elim Exfoliating Body Polish contains wax beads instead of soap and salt, which extract moisture, while Elim’s Restorative Body Cream contains collagen, Shea, honey, urea and lanolin to firm and nourish areas of the R
Professional Beauty June 2015
pregnancy
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body. Elim Argan Body Gloss has all the benefits of all pure body oils in one oil and is safe to use on the face.
After the baby Janine Thomson of Lamprobe SA notes that to get post-pregnancy bodies back to normal, micro-needling offers brilliant results when coupled with the appropriate ingredients. Thomson continues: “Post pregnancy, women also acquire additional lesions due to the hormonal changes and increased growth factors. Skin tags tend to form in those areas susceptible to friction. An increased number of acrochordons are found under and between the breasts, in the neck and under the arms. The easiest and least invasive removal method would be with a single Lamprobe treatment.” Diffuse redness is most successfully treated with IPL (Intense Pulsed Light), according to Thomson. “Dilated capillaries are very common post-pregnancy and these can be easily removed with a number of different modalities on the market depending on the site of the lesion, approximately three months after delivery. A single treatment with the Lamprobe will remove dilated capillaries above the waist, where the site of the lesion is within the papillary dermis. For unsightly dilated capillaries present in the reticular dermis, laser treatments are the best modality and sclerotherapy is advised especially on the legs to flush out the capillaries.”
Cherry Angiomas, also known as Campbell de Morgan Spots or Ruby spots, are the bright red papules often found on the abdomen post pregnancy, due to the hormonal changes. Common treatments are laser, Lamprobe and IPL. These are effectively thermo-coagulated in one treatment, forming a scab instantaneously.
Flab and stretch marks Say Naomi Olivier of Medilase/Hitech Lasers: “Post-baby excess fat can be effectively trimmed down by a noninvasive body-contouring procedure with Viora’s Reaction RF system or the V30 Platform with the skin-tightening handpiece. Both the Reaction and V30 platform utilise Viora’s proprietary CORE technology with three individual RF channels and a fourth channel incorporating all three modes for greater depth penetration and control. The skin-tightening procedures are non-invasive and include body and facial contouring, cellulite reduction, stretch-mark reduction and tightening.” Viora systems’ technology applies an advanced combination of RF and vacuum therapy to offer highly effective treatments. CORE technology (Channelling
Professional Beauty June 2015
Optimized RF Energy) features three distinct RF frequency channels (0.8MHz, 1.7MHz and 2.45MHz) and an additional fourth multi-channel mode, combining all three RF frequencies. The major benefits of these multiple RF frequencies include superior treatment control, precision targeting, a broader dermal effect, and higher energy absorption for optimal clinical results. The device used for treating stretch marks is a non-ablative fractional 1565nm laser (Lumenis ResurFX). At each impact, the laser generates an array of focused microspots with a density adjustable by the operator and varying from 50 to 500 beams/ cm². The practitioner can choose any of the six different shapes (hexagon, circle, doughnut, square, rectangle, or line), and scan sizes ranging from 5 to 18mm, with energy of up to 70 mJ/ spot. The Lumenis Photofractional treatment is a highly effective method for improving the appearance of stretch-marks on different areas of your body. The technology combines two solutions, IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) and ResurFX non-ablative skin resurfacing, so that both skin tone and texture can be treated simultaneously. PB
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peeling
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Face off! The winter months present the ideal time to perform peels on clients to treat a variety of skin concerns.
M
ost peels are made up of a combination of active ingredients such as Retinol, antioxidants and acids. “These types of formulations have many target sites versus a single acid targeting one specific concern,” says Sonette Donker of Sandtonbased clinic, Skin iD. “The addition of antioxidants makes it a more pleasant experience for the client and reduces the downtime from a few days to nothing at all. “People have very little time and want instant results, so short, very active peeling treatments are popular. The trend of combining the peels with active pre and post peel home care is gaining traction. “In my clinic I mainly deal with adult acne. Hyperpigmentation due to hormonal imbalances is also a big
“Safe, effective peels should contain natural acids with known therapeutic action, combined with high percentages of antiinflammatories, crucial for treating conditions such as active acne.” Jacqui Faucitt
concern, predominantly in my female clients, as well as photo-ageing due to an excess of sun exposure. This is typical of very active, outdoor sports people like runners and cyclists. Interestingly, I treat a lot of photo-ageing not only on the face and neck, but on the chest, arms and hands.” Donker notes that Glycolic acid, Phytic acid, Azelic acid, Salicylic acid, Mandelic acid, Lactic acid, Ferulic acid, Kojic acid and Trichloracetic acid (TCA) are still the most popular acids in formulations. “My favourite acid is TCA due to the fact you leave it on the skin and it treats severe damage. I get amazing results with it and it is very affordable,” she states.
The depths Karen Ellithorne of Spa & Salon Solutions points out that peeling also treats skin laxity and loss of volume, fine lines and wrinkles, open pores and coarse texture, congested and sluggish skin and rosacea. “There are three levels of peels,” continues Ellithorne. “Superficial peels are generally achieved when working with mild AHAs and BHAs, which act on the skin’s surface (Stratum Corneum) by gently breaking down the adhesion of the keratinocytes and dissolving the protein bond which binds them together. This will bring about a gentle exfoliation. “Medium depth peels can
Professional Beauty June 2015
Glycolic acid, Phytic acid, Azelic acid, Salicylic acid, Mandelic acid, Lactic acid, Ferulic acid, Kojic acid and Trichloracetic acid (TCA) are still the most popular acids in formulations. Sonette Donker
be achieved when working with AHAs and BHAs but at a stronger concentration to work at mid epidermal level (Stratum Granulosum). The exfoliation effect will move up through the layers of the skin towards the surface, resulting in flaking of the epidermis and a thinning effect on the Stratum Corneum. Clients may experience a rosy frost on the skin which indicates partial de-epithelialisation.” According to Ellithorne, in deep chemical peels a higher concentrate of peeling agents causes a detachment of the keratinocytes and consequent epidermolysis, whereby the entire epidermis will sheath away from the dermis to be renewed and regenerated. “The skin will frost completely white and this will indicate that the peel has reached the papillary dermis. Deep chemical peels should only performed by doctors and an occlusive dressing must be applied to the skin during the healing period.”
All year round Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA believes that it is possible to have chemical
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peeling
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peeling treatments all year round with natural, un-buffered peels being key. “Buffered peels strip the skin, causing extreme irritation and inflammation yet providing little if no therapeutic action. Skin would be prone to post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). “Safe, effective peels should contain natural acids with known therapeutic action, combined with high percentages of antiinflammatories, crucial for treating conditions such as active acne. Because of the use of buffered peels causing problems it has cast doubt over all peels regarding the safety during the summer months. Extensive research and trialling by RégimA over many years has proven
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that this does not have to be the case. It is better for one to have a course of peels which gradually improve a condition, such as melasma, rather than a short sharp shock, as inevitably the pigmentation returns.” Faucitt describes RégimA’s Zone Power Peel (available in 30% and 50%) as a totally new generation ‘turbo peel’. They contain six natural acids including Peach, Raspberry, Apple, Malic, Lactic, Citric, plus healing, repairing, smoothing active ingredients. The Power Peels boast a rapid exfoliating action, short treatment time, all with minimised downtime. Says Faucitt: “They prompt a flash
effect in terms of rapid increased skin radiance and glow and prompt collagen and elastin biosynthesis. There is an instant smoothing effect on fine lines and wrinkles. “The peels are safe for all skins and ethnicities and can be used during pregnancy. They are a safe alternative to deep peels such as TCA and phenol peels, as well as laser and IPL treatments.” Faucitt also references RégimA’s Omega High Impact Night Complex, a technologically advanced product R
Professional Beauty June 2015
peeling
50 that has high impact on the outer horny layer of ski. It combines three natural fruit acids, Lactic, Malic and Citric, with reparative elastin stimulating peptides which promote healthy collagen synthesis, blackcurrant seed oil rich in omega 3 and 6.
Controlled wound “The art of peeling is having the experience to correctly apply a suitable peeling medium in order to produce a controlled wound at the required depth of the skin, without scarring or causing hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation,” says Ursula Hunt of DermaFix. “Chemical peels are divided according to the depth required and the strength and characteristics of the peeling medium used. Standardising
peeling procedures helps eliminate variables and produce excellence in this highly specialised field of skincare. “The DermaFix Progressive 3– or 4– Stage Peel is newer, safer and more predictable than most peels on the market, while the DermaFix DermaBright Mandelic AHA from bitter almonds has been successfully on the market since 2006 for less invasive skin resurfacing results,” adds Hunt.
Recent launch The Professional Beauty Durban 2015 Show saw the launch of the latest
product offerings by General Topics Italy, including the Enerpeel chemical peels. Says Naaheed Raboobee of SkinTECH, the Enerpeel distributor in South Africa: “Demos were conducted on several enthusiastic volunteers at the show and proved very successful. The captive audience was responsive and keen to try the peels. “Enerpeel chemical peels are prepacked with five or 15 plastic vials, application brushes and preparatory and neutraliser wipes, for before and after the procedure. No mixing is required and two to three peels may be performed from one vial. “The peel process is simple and easy to perform. One is required to prepare the skin with the Enerpeel preparatory wipe and then apply the chemoexfoliant solution, using the special applicator brush which attaches to the vial. The solution must be left on for between two and 10 minutes, following by an application of the Enerpeel Neutraliser wipe.”
Double action Juliette Armand’s Apocalypsis Therapy is both a medium chemical
Professional Beauty June 2015
peeling therapy and a rapid skin cell rejuvenation therapy. It is based on the combined exfoliationrejuvenation effects of Spongilla Lacustris, Spongilla Fragilis (Leidy), Ephydatia Fluviatilis, herbs with AHAs in concentrations up to 40% and a pH of 2.5. This combination works on wrinkles, dyschromias, scars and spots. The potent soothing action of Kelifluo, Panthenol and the MS derivative of salicylic acid reduce the common undesired irritations of chemical peels.
Standardising peeling procedures helps eliminate variables and produce excellence in this highly specialised field of skincare. Ursula Hunt
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product focus – peeling aftercare
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LEFT: The Professional Beauty Durban 2015 Show saw the launch of the Enerpeel chemical peels.
Juliette Armand’s BHA’s Peeling is a chemical peeling gel with salicylic and glycolic acid. The combination provides instant, deep exfoliation and minimises difficulties encountered with other types of chemical peeling. It is recommended for instant, deep peeling of all skin types. The Juliette Armand AHA Therapy consists of four gels containing fruit acids enriched with lactic acid and glycolic acid in amounts of 10%, 20%, 30% and 40%, as well as a neutralising lotion. Juliette Armand’s Elements 6% AHA Fluid is a multi-action cream with a fluid texture. It exfoliates, moisturises, firms and whitens skin while boosting its natural regeneration process.
Thick skin Maria Galland’s Système Dermatologiques D2-3 Intense Peeling is indicated for thick skin that is not sensitive but is prone to blemishes and has marked wrinkles. D2-D Intense Peeling provides a keratolytic action and combines fruit acid and glycolic acid. It has a pH level of 3.5. Other active ingredients are B-GHFx complex and enzymes.
Non-aggressive Rather than being aggressive, optiphi’s Skin Rejuvenation Peel is a progressive peel. Suitable for all skin types and colours, this peel does not inflict unwanted inflammation in the skin which could trigger unwanted skin ageing and skin pigmentation. It also stimulates the fibroblasts in the dermal layer to produce more collagen and elastin, improving skin firmness and plumpness. PB
Gently does it Peels leave the skin in a state of sensitivity, so the utmost care must be taken following a peeling procedure. All inclusive The new Post-Peel Travel Pack from optiphi consists of the Facial Cleanser, Moisture Control Light, Ageless Activegel and Dermintense Activegel. Ageless Activegel acts as a sebo-suppressor and maintains the skin’s barrier function at pH 5.5, while Dermintense Activegel acts as a collagen and elastin therapy. 012 667 6244/3
Serum strength If peels are performed on an acneform skin or telangiectasia (couperose), then RégimA Scar Repair Forté Super Strength Serum is an important addition to the home care regime as it contains high percentages of antiinflammatories. It acts rapidly, calms erythema and is very healing. 011 615 2869
Copper peptide MD Prescriptives’ Intensive Scar Repair is a rich emollient, combining copper peptide with clinically proven active dermaceutical ingredients that boost the skin’s natural production of both collagen and elastin, thus balancing the dermal matrix to significantly reduce post-peel sensitivity and inflammation. 0861 28 23 23
Advanced range Priori’s Advanced AHA Range is the ideal product range for use on skin after a peeling treatment to encourage regeneration and enhance and prolong the results. This range leaves the skin hydrated, revitalised and nourished with multi-functional vitamin antioxidants for protection and anti-ageing benefits. 011 486 4904
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty June 2015
hair news
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Crowning
glory
Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.
Royal colour With Igora Royal Absolutes and Igora Royal Absolutes Age Blend by Schwarzkopf Professional, hairdressers can integrate two bespoke services for the steadily growing target group of women aged 40+ in their salon portfolio and offer a colour service that is specifically tailored to their needs. 011 203 0700
Stylin’ Dredz dreadlock anthem Intent on building a ‘dreadlock tribe’, Stylin’ Dredz Hair Care collaborated with some of South Africa’s finest music artists to create a love story anthem for the dreadlock journey. Music was conceptualised by Acid & Alkaline and composed, produced and arranged by Adam Howard of Howard Audio, with vocals by Brandon October and Mpumi Ramasimong, and guitar by Aldert Du Toit. The Stylin’ Dredz anthem can be downloaded at https:// soundcloud.com/search?q=stylin%20dredz or scan the QR code.
Powerful hair spray Inoar Hair Spray Extra Forte hydrates and shapes the hair naturally, without damaging or drying out the hair. The active formulation, which contains Argan oil, is enriched with moisturising and revitalising properties. 012 686 7067
Paddle brush The teeth in Tangle Teezers’ blow-styling paddle hairbrush allow for free-flow tension, so there’s no pulling and tugging. Excess moisture is removed from the hair shaft to guarantee a quicker blow-dry. The style is left voluminous and shiny with reduced frizz. 021 448 8847
Professional Beauty June 2015
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nails
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Nail that sale Salons today are not only offering professional services but also high-end quality products backed by solid recommendations and home care advice, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty June 2015
nails
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M
ost well-known professional product brands offer everything a salon and nail technician requires, from a full complement of professional and retail product lines, to high quality services, as well as the necessary education and marketing support. There is no doubt that any woman would like the opportunity to try the products they are interested in before buying them. Having professional services performed using these products offers the ideal opportunity. It also gives clients the necessary know how on how to maintain the longevity of their service. Every nail client will benefit from at least two of the ‘must have’ products –
like cuticle oil and hand cream. These are items that should be selling like hot cakes, yet I have come across so many women who don’t have, or make use, of these items. Woman regularly ask me for advice on what to use on their skin and nails and many of them visit nail salons, so why are they not getting advice and purchasing from you, the therapist?
Initiating a sale So where does it all begin and where does it all end? The answer is – you! Initiating a sale can develop into an ongoing cycle that should continue over a long period of time, or it can so easily end just like that. It’s all about creating a need for an item and the reason for purchasing it. The selling process begins from the minute the client walks through
Professional Beauty June 2015
your doors and you greet them, gradually building your relationship throughout the entire service. Some people may need a little more convincing to purchase retail, while others will buy anything at the drop of a hat. However, if you have passion and believe in what you are selling, half the battle is won and closing the sale becomes effortless. The most important thing a client needs to have is trust – in the person selling to them and in the advice they are given. Selling an item to someone that you know will not benefit them will only result in mistrust and no repeat sales.
Key pointers By following some of the steps below during the service you can set yourself up for a successful sale. ■ Consultation is probably the best way to initiate a sale as it assists the nail stylist in assessing the client’s nails and to prescribe the
online at www.probeauty.co.za
nails
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nail salon with the recommended products. correct service and product combination. You can make the home care recommendations while you are performing the treatment. ■ Communicate with your clients as to their needs and exactly what it is that they would like to achieve from their treatment. Make sure that during the service you educate them as to a special home care programme on how to maintain their service and get the most from the retail products she purchases. ■ Communication must be two-way. Use different types of questions to establish information about your client’s needs and requirements. ■ Observation and analysis – make sure that you observe and analyse the client’s, hands, feet or nails, by assessing their condition. If a client has weak nails, dry, torn cuticles, calluses or dehydrated skin, they will be ready to take your advice regarding after care solutions ■ Educating your client will encourage the correct and proper use of professional retail products and create loyal clientele. ■ Create growth through word of mouth – if your client is receiving a good professional service, which meets her needs, and she is purchasing high-end quality products which assist in maintain the longevity of her service, she will most definitely talk about it. ■ Don’t just talk about a product, try it on your client. There is nothing more convincing than using a
online at www.probeauty.co.za
After care essentials
product on a client and them being able to smell it, feel it and most importantly, see the results. However, do not recommend products that you don’t have available for retail or that you are not able to try on them. ■ Meeting a client’s expectations – if you are not providing them with the appropriate products and correct information as a nail professional, they will simply go to the next salon that does. Don’t just provide your client with a recommendation card, be sure to guide them to the reception area with the products they are interested in and confirm that they are happy with what you have advised. ■ Link selling – this can also be very beneficial to you and help to generate extra revenue, income and commission. Recommend complementary products to the ones they are already interested in buying. Offer alternatives if you are out of stock. ■ Attitude and approach – be sincere and show your clients that you care and are interested in them and assisting them to achieve their goals. Finally reassure them that if they are not sure of something they are welcome to call and ask for further advice. Be careful not to overpromise anything, rather under promise and over deliver. Closing the sale means following through, from the beginning right up until the absolute very end, making sure the client walks out of your
According to Yvette Nel, head educator at LCN, every client should use the following at home: Booster or moisturiser for natural nails: water, acetone and the majority of artificial products have a dehydrating effect on the natural nail, especially the free edge. The application of these products should be underneath the natural nail free edge and around the cuticle area. Cuticle care: a healthy cuticle means a healthy nail. Consumers are moving away from the mind-set that if they wear artificial nails, the health of their natural nails isn’t important. Nail file: I know that as nail techs we prefer our clients not to file their own nails but the fact is that if you do not sell them a nail file, they will buy one form the retail shop down the street. Hand care: this can be a scrub, mask, serum or whatever suits the need of the client’s hands. Try recommending something different to just a hand cream. Sealing base and top coat: the client loves her nails looking perfect from fill to fill. By applying a sealing base and top coat she can have that. Have testers handy to do quick demonstrations so the clients can see and feel results instantly. In conclusion, be the professional you strive to be and recommend with confidence and belief the products you stock. Then ask them the question – how many would you like? Close the sale and double your turnover this year. PB
Sonette van Rensberg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 25 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191
Professional Beauty June 2015
C O N V E N T I O N 20 1 5 SATURDAY 27 JUNE AND SUNDAY 28 JUNE
Whether a Novice or a Seasoned Pro, join us for the
ART OF AESTHETICS
TOTAL POINT POSSIBILITY:
7 CPD and 5 ETHICS
Book online at www.medicalaesthetics.co.za, OR contact: bookings@tetradeevents.com
SATURDAY 27 JUNE 2015
One day passes available from only R725 per person
REGISTRATION: 9H30 10h00 – 10h45:
10h45 – 11h30:
Introduction into Aesthetic and Anti-Aging Medicine
Dr Paul Brandt
SUNDAY 28 JUNE 2015
Botulinum Toxin & Dermal Filler
REGISTRATION: 9h00
Dr Paul Brandt 11h30 – 12h00: TEA 12h00 – 12h30:
Demo: Botulinum toxin & Dermal Fillers
12h30 – 13h30: LUNCH 13h30 – 14h30:
Mesotherapy Workshop
Dr Johan Botha 14h30 – 15h30:
Panel Discussion – How to get the best results from aesthetic treatments
Dr Lionel Jedeikin (plastic and reconstructive surgeon), Dr Zak Schabort (aesthetic practitioner), Claudeen Krause (aesthetic therapist), Amy Bowie (aesthetic therapist). 15h30 – 15h45: TEA 15h45 – 16h45:
The does and don’ts of marketing an aesthetic practice (2 Ethics points) Ulundi Behrtel
In today’s competitive environment it is tempting to get caught up in the trap of various marketing strategies. This lecture focuses on the ethical rules applicable to running and marketing an aesthetic practice. CLOSE
9h30 – 10h30
Suspension Sutures Dr Alek Nikolic
The latest innovation in minimally invasive procedures introduced into the aesthetic industry late last year. The patient can benefit from immediate contouring and lifting results that last. This treatment is specifically indicated for treating a sagging jawline. DEMO video included. 10h30 – 10h45: TEA 10h45 – 11h45:
Who’s allowed to do what in an aesthetic practice and who carries the responsibility? (2 Ethics points) Ulundi Behrtel
This lecture outlines the different roles of the staff of an aesthetic practice and outlines the responsibilities if procedures go wrong. After this session during the lunch break you have the opportunity to fill in a questionnaire related to the talk in order to receive 1 ADDITIONAL ETHICS point. PLEASE NOTE in order to qualify for the full 5 points you must attend both Saturday and Sundays ethics lectures.
11h45 – 14h00:
Lunch/ Exhibition; Ethics questionnaire
14h00 – 15h00:
A Peeling workshop Susan Lockie
15h00 – 15h30:
Acoustic Wave Therapy Branislav Sučanský
15h30 – 16h00: TEA
For more information, visit www.medicalaesthetics.co.za Medical Aesthetic Convention is part of Professional Beauty
16h00 – 17h00:
Info tutorial on aesthetic equipment Jacques Pretorius
CLOSE
non-invasive rhinoplasty
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The alternative
nose job
Non-Invasive Rhinoplasty (NIR) is a viable method of correcting nasal imperfections, writes Dr Lionel Jedeikin.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
R
hinoplasty is the most challenging of all cosmetic surgery procedures. The nose, being the central focus of the face, is obviously very important from an aesthetic point of view. Any defect, asymmetry or anatomical abnormality of the nose can be improved or corrected by meticulous, well-planned surgical intervention. This is known as rhinoplasty and is often performed simultaneously with corrective surgery of any breathing problems, known as septoplasty.
The combination is therefore referred to as septo-rhinoplasty. When considering any correction of nasal imperfections, both the patient and the surgeon need to consider various parameters that will determine whether the surgical approach or the use of non-invasive (NIR) materials would improve the aesthetics of the nose. Factors to be considered include the degree of correction required, the cost of surgery, surgical downtime (recovery period), the general health of patient (is the patient an anaesthetic R
Professional Beauty June 2015
non-invasive rhinoplasty
60 risk?) and, will the solution be long-term or will continued treatments be required? Once all of the above factors have been well considered by both surgeon and patient, a decision is made as to which line of treatment will be undertaken. It must be understood that, in certain situations, NIR may not be a possible alternative at all.
What exactly is NIR? NIR employs the use of injectables to facilitate the improvement in nasal aesthetics. These injectables are characteristically the hyaluronic acid fillers known as Restylane/Perlane, Juvederm and Teosyl. (There are approximately 40 filler products currently on the market.) All of these are prepared in varied viscosities and the ‘thicker and more viscous’ the injectable, the longer it will last. Another aspect of nasal aesthetics is the appearance of the nasal skin; the most common request is the removal of small spider-like veins known as telangiectasia. This is quite easily done using the IPL laser or a vascular laser. It is not painful and healing is rapid.
Indications for NIR As mentioned earlier, certain factors need be taken into account to determine whether an invasive or non-invasive path is taken. Basically there are two categories – Primary and Secondary. The Primary category of patient typically presents with minimal aesthetic defects, which would not necessitate a surgical intervention. Injectables can correct small ‘dents’, improve nasal tip projection and correct slight asymmetries. Dr Lionel Jedeikin In the Secondary category, the patient has undergone a primary surgical rhinoplasty with less than satisfactory results, requiring revisionary treatment. Secondary can also include patients who have sustained a trauma to the nose, leaving them with small, Disadvantages unacceptable aesthetic defects which would respond favourably to injectables. If these are ✘ Short-lived minor, then fillers can be used, If not, further ✘ Costly (9-monthly filler injections secondary rhinoplasty needs to be considered.
I suggest that all patients ensure that whoever they consult with in respect to NIR has a very good understanding of facial aesthetics, as well as facial anatomy.
Advantages and disadvantages of nir Advantages ✔ Quick procedure ✔ Limited downtime ✔ Immediate results
required and 3-4-monthly botulinum injections required)
✘ Pain ✘ Bruising ✘ Aesthetic dissatisfaction (NIR is operator-dependent)
Professional Beauty June 2015
How is NIR performed? The most important consideration is the doctor/ surgeon as the results of NIR are totally operatordependent. As such, the surgeon must be able to determine exactly where and what the defect is. It’s imperative that this be done with the patient in front of a mirror, whilst the surgeon clearly
online at www.probeauty.co.za
non-invasive rhinoplasty
61 marks the areas with a surgical marker. This will ensure that both surgeon and patient are on the same page. Good clinical photographs must be taken before and after the injection and the procedure must be done under sterile conditions. Local anaesthetic blocks should be given or EMLA anaesthetic cream applied at least 30 minutes prior to injection. Oral or intravenous sedation can be used depending on the patient’s pain threshold and anxiety levels. Application of ice packs to the injected area is recommended for 24 hours post-injection. The normal post-injection sequelae must be explained to the patient, and massage techniques can be suggested to obviate small lumps and bumps.
Botulinum Toxin in NIR Botulinum Toxin, such as Botox and Dysport, is a very powerful tool to modulate facial aesthetics. There are several muscles around the nose which are responsible for nasal movements, most of which have specific functions. There is one muscle in particular which pulls the tip of the nose down, particularly while smiling. This muscle is known as the Depressor Septi Muscle and there is one on either side at the lower point of the nose tip. Very small amounts of Botulinum Toxin injected into this area will relax the muscle and prevent it from pulling the nose tip down.
Extreme care should be taken to inject the toxin accurately into the specific anatomical location to prevent irregularities in the smile or problems with patient speech. It should, therefore, be performed by a doctor or rhinoplasty specialist who understands this anatomical region.
Conclusion From the above information, it can be ascertained that there is definitely a place for NIR. As I specialise in rhinoplasty, I suggest that all patients ensure that whoever they consult with in respect to NIR has a very good understanding of facial aesthetics, as well as facial anatomy. As simple as filler injections/Botulinum Toxin may seem to be, there are disadvantages which must be explained in full to all patients. Before and after photographs should be provided, as well as the option of contacting previous patients. For further information regarding NIR, please contact The Association of Plastic Surgeons South Africa (APRSSA) or the author. PB Dr Lionel Jedeikin is a plastic and reconstructive surgeon based in Cape Town. Email him on lioneljed58@gmail.com
product news
62
In the market Our round-up of newly launched products and devices.
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Kalahari’s Phyto Compounding Concept consists of African clays and muds that are compounded with phyto-effective botanical extracts for focused treatment results. This concept affords therapists the opportunity to tailor specific treatments from superior ingredients for their clients’ individual skincare needs.
Heliocare 360 Oil-free SPF 50 is a light, oil-free gel with a comfortable ‘dry touch’ feel, which is designed for people with normal/oily skin and people with acne probe skin. It protects against UVA, UVB, IR-A and visible light, neutralises free radical activity via antioxidants and provides full coverage with Smart Galenic immunoprotection. 011 545 9300
Professional Beauty June 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
saahsp
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Cidesco Section South Africa
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
Eyeing the ‘Skills World Cup’ in Brazil
C
reative and gifted young South African artisantrainees showcased their vocational excellence to more than 10 000 visitors at the inaugural WorldSkills South Africa (WSSA) National Skills Show that took place at the Cape Town International Convention Centre from 28 - 31 January. This event, the first of its kind in South Africa, was organised in partnership with the Department of Higher Education & Training (DHET) and CTEX, a well-known events company. The show featured not only the skills competition, but also a variety of ‘Try-a-Skill’ activities, where visitors could try their hand at a selection of the skills on show, a capacity-building workshop, and a career exhibition that showcased the different careers and opportunities available in different sectors of the economy. Exhibitors included public TVET Colleges and universities, private
training institutions, employers and various Sector Education & Training Authorities (SETAs). The aim of this national skills showcase is to promote artisanship among young South Africans and to position the country as an internationally competitive player. A total of 76 national competitors competed in 19 skill areas, which included Beauty Therapy and Hairdressing. This competition forms part of WorldSkills International (WSI), the
largest vocational skills competition in the world. The next competition is scheduled to take place in São Paulo, Brazil, in August. The finalists in each skills area were announced at the closing ceremony on 31 January. The final winner in each skills area will be announced at an official event scheduled to take place shortly. These final winners will form part of Team South Africa to compete in São Paulo this year. On the Beauty Therapy front, congratulations to: Courtney Kerr of Beauty Therapy Institute, Roeléne Groenewald of ISA Carstens Academy and Michelle Samuels of Northlink TVET College. The finalists in the skill area of Hairdressing are: India Choo of DNA Salon Bedford Centre; Mia Ctous of Northlink TVET College and Megan Valentine of Paul James Hairdressing.
Potchefstroom Academy goes to school
O
n 25 February, the Potchefstroom Academy had the privilege of giving a Hygiene and Grooming presentation to 20 scholars from Ikalafeng School in Potchefstroom. The academy presented a PowerPoint presentation explaining the importance of personal hygiene, grooming of your nails, ageappropriate dressing and how to apply make-up properly. After the presentation, the students each received a hand and nail cream, varnish and a hand massage. The academy’s students had a nail painting and make-up corner where they could attend to each scholar. Product samples were provided by Mooi Cosmetics.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
“This experience was so rewarding and it only took a small part of our day to give back something to the community,”
says Anine Wallace, Head of Department: Course Information and Registrations, Potchefstroom Academy.
Professional Beauty June 2015
Business Tips
64 Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Brenda Mzila Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: classifieds@probeauty.co.za
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Hot Hair Pieces has been supplying the hair industry for the past 8 years with a variety of Hair braids and Hair Extensions including: • 100% PREBONDED REMY HAIR • HUMAN HAIR WEAVES • SYNTHETIC HAIR WEAVES • BULKS • CLIP IN HAIR EXTENSIONS • SOFT DREDS • HUMAN HAIR OPRAH CURL • BUNS and so much more.
PMU Conference
28 & 29 Aug
Start your OWN Nail Guru Franchise in 2015!
Hot Hair Pieces is your hair salons best kept secret. We have more than 21 years of experience in the making of hair extensions. We supply country wide and export as well. Contact us for your next order. We look forward to hearing from you soon.
Includes Salon, Training Centre & Supply Shop
Area specific Contact Chantelle Prince for more info chantelle@thenailguru.co.za
031 564 2933 info@thenailguru.co.za 27e54fe4 The Nail Guru
Permanent Cosmetics Association of South Africa info@pcasa.org.za www.pcasa.org.za
www.thenailguru.co.za
To advertise your PRODUCTS, SERVICES AND SUPPLIES in this space, call Brenda Mzila on 011 781 5970
Professional Beauty June 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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