Professional Beauty SA June 2021

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

NAILFILE

EXPECT MORE FROM YOUR SKIN CARE

In this issue...

CHEMICAL PEELING SPA NUTRITION QIGONG EXPLAINED

June 2021 | probeauty.co.za

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CONTENTS

IN THIS ISSUE Regulars 9

39

Industry news

42

Crowning glory

Local and international news

In the market

New products

All the latest launches

Business 15

18

Ask the Experts

28

The skinny on gluten

All your questions answered

Unpacking the hype and confusion

16

22

Regulation of aesthetic equipment in SA

Tapping into the body’s energy centre Qigong explained

Talking to…

Dr Debbie Norval

What you need to know

AAMSSA president

Spa Focus 30

To increase or not to increase?

The subtle art of increasing prices

Features

32

Treating skin on different areas of the body with chemical peels

34

What lies beneath Peeling treatments

An expert view

Aesthetic Medicine 40

Don’t sweat it!

How to treat hyperhidrosis

online @ probeauty.co.za

Nails 43

NailFile Issue 42

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WELCOME

Cover source: Beauté Pacifique

A few days before this magazine was published, President Cyril Ramaphosa announced that due to rising COVID-19 infections and fears of a third wave of the pandemic, the country was being moved from Level 1 to Level 2 lockdown. While this is obviously an alarming development, salons, spas and medical aesthetics clinics are mercifully still allowed to operate.

And, the country’s vaccination programme is now well underway and will hopefully soon start to have an impact in terms of reducing the number of infections.

As winter is peeling season, we have included in this issue, a special feature on the wide range of professional chemical peels that are available in South Africa, as well as an article about body peeling.

The face and neck are the areas that are traditionally most peeled, but it is perfectly possible to successfully peel other parts of the body as well.

We have also included some other interesting articles for you to read, such as an illuminating interview with the current president of the Aesthetic and Anti-Aging Medicine Society of South Africa about the state of the industry and the legislation that governs this sector, as well as a fascinating article on nutrition that investigates the hype around the term, ‘gluten-free’. There is also an article about qigong, an ancient Chinese movement, breathing and healing technique that is being incorporated into wellness packages at a Johannesburg healthcare retreat.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

@probeautyexpo

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Publisher Mark Moloney 011 781 5970 mark@probeauty.co.za Managing Director Yolanda Knott 011 781 5970 yolanda@probeauty.co.za Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970 phil@probeauty.co.za Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 011 781 5970 joanna@probeauty.co.za Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970 stacey@tetradeevents.com Operations Executive Obey Dube 011 781 5970 obey@probeauty.co.za Design Phil Woods and Saveer Sugreem

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970

@PROBEAUTYSA

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com and www.pixabay.com

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Masculinity partners with Mr World SA and Mr Gay World SA Beauté Pacifique has appointed the Top 5 contestants in both the Mr World South Africa and Mr Gay World South Africa competitions as brand ambassadors for its medical-grade skincare range, Masculinity.

In the following Q&A, the winners of each competition, Sean van Noordwyk and Louw Breytenbach respectively, reveal their goals for their year, what it means to be a man, and their attitude to skincare.

What are you aiming to bring to South Africa over the next 12 months?

Sean van Noordwyk (Mr World South Africa): I want to focus on spreading the message of kindness. To quote Robin Sharma’s The Secret Letters of the Monk Who Sold His Ferrari: “With every person we engage, in everything we do, we must be kinder than expected, more generous than anticipated, more positive than we thought possible. Every moment in front of another human being is an opportunity to express our highest values and to influence someone with our humanity.” I also want to focus on mental health awareness, especially with the men and the boys of South Africa.

Louw Breytenbach (Mr Gay World South Africa): The honour of being crowned Mr Gay World SA 2021 carries with it an enormous responsibility to the LGBTIQA+ community in terms of uniting it and driving change and inclusivity. I am already very involved in driving mental health awareness as I have personally experienced these challenges, plus the LGBTIQ+ youth are the demographic most likely to commit suicide. We are involved in movements centered on body positivity and awareness campaigns against the recent spate of homophobic hate crimes.

What do you, as a South African man, stand for?

Sean van Noordwyk: In response, I would like to quote Lewis Howes from The Mask of Masculinity: “He is the one joining forces, searching for the win-win. He is the one who is lifting others up, inspiring others through his journey and his own process (in which he is finding ways to create value along the way). He is the hero of his own journey.”

Louw Breytenbach: I stand for inclusivity and equality, regardless of sexual orientation or preference. Furthermore, I stand for integrity, unity and a purpose-driven life to help people reach the most authentic versions of themselves.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Louw Breytenbach and Sean van Noordwyk

How important is skincare to you?

Sean van Noordwyk: Taking care of your skin shows that you are taking care of yourself, that you respect yourself and are kind towards yourself.

Louw Breytenbach: The way we look after ourselves mentally and physically reflects who we are and what we strive to become.

What is your daily skincare routine?

Sean van Noordwyk: I sometimes struggle with dry skin, so I try to moisturise in the morning and before bed. I regularly use a face scrub and also a cleanser.

Louw Breytenbach: My routine varies, from using a natural scrub to exfoliate the skin, to cleansing with a natural, light facewash. A decent moisturiser and sunscreen is a must, and for those exhausting days, a moisturiser that can plump and lift the bags under my eyes is useful. In the evenings I make use of a toner and a night cream.

What appeals to you about Beauté Pacifique’s Masculinity range?

Sean van Noordwyk: I’m really excited to walk a journey with Masculinity this coming year. And I’ll definitely be sharing my experience on my social media platforms.

Louw Breytenbach: I am so excited to work with Masculinity this year, especially when I see what the brand stands for, the quality of the marketing, branding and packaging.

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BUSINESS TIPS

www.beaute-pacifique.com

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online @ probeauty.co.za

Masculinity Purifying Foam Cleanser This Foam Cleanser is a 'One Step' facial cleanser & shaving foam, designed for all skin types to provide a fast, yet gentle cleansing. Clears clogged pores without irritating or drying out the skin. Leaves the skin smooth and fresh.

Masculinity Double Action Facial Scrub A biodegradable, biological exfoliating crème, with cellulose beads to exfoliate dead skin cells and dissolve skin tags. Leaves the skin with a smooth, healthy glow.

Contains Propolis and Rooibos to fight problematic skin.

Increases the moisture level in the skin and Stimulates blood circulation. Opens clogged pores and works against inflammation in problematic skin.

Masculinity Anti-Age Creme A powerful Vitamin A creme that effectively prevents and repairs ageing and sun damages. Two medical-grade forms of Vitamin A, in a Squalane delivery system penetrate so deeply that the skin’s own cells regenerate the lost collagen / elastin structure in full depth - now appearing as a younger skin. Prevents thin and saggy skin.

Masculinity Moisturizing Day Crème A perfect moisturiser providing long lasting moisture.

Contains Squalane that absorbs and softens instantly with Hyaluronic Acid to maintain a high level of moisture throughout the day. Adds Niacinamide and Sodium PCA to bind extra moisture. Instant moisture - without a greasy residue.

Masculinity Hair & Shower Gel A 2 in 1 shower gel cleanses and refreshes both skin and hair. Suits all skin and hair types with a Masculine fragrance.

www.beaute-pacifique.com

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online @ probeauty.co.za

INDUSTRY NEWS

SA spas experience good business over first quarter Several South African spas report that business for the first part of the year has been encouraging, taking into account the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic and the poor state of the economy.

Michelle Hillestad, owner/ manager of the two Simbiosis destination spas in Ballito, reports that February and May were some of the busiest months she has had in over three years. “In fact,” she continues, “we actually had a few record-breaking days! On average, our guests and rooms are at around 70% occupancy and sometimes we even have to turn away clients.

“Since the pandemic, clients are far more interested in self-care, especially regarding their skin. There’s been a large increase in our facial treatments, as well as in our collagen induction treatments. We did, however, have a facial promotion running recently which could have kick-started initial interest and enabled us to gain new clients. Demand for massage treatments has also increased.

“Most clients have become weekly visitors to the spa, referring friends and loved ones. It seems that more than ever, clients are craving a de-stress spa trip, or a getaway for a quick spa day. Even amid fears of a third wave of the pandemic, clients are still attending their appointments and COVID is not being used as a cancellation reason.”

Because clients are now more reluctant to spend large amounts of money on product, Hillestad has sourced a local, more affordable skincare option.

“Clients are exceptionally happy that they are now able to purchase skincare that is domestic, cost-effective and constantly in-stock,” she says.

Great feat

From January to April this year, Jiva Spa at TAJ Cape Town reached 60% of the turnover achieved in 2019/2020.

“This is a great feat in itself if you consider that we are a hotel spa and that our hotel is trading at an average 15% occupancy, compared to 85% average in 2018/19/20,” says Jiva Spa manager, Francisco Garcia. “While business in January was not good at all, February, March and April were great months considering the state of the hospitality business.

“I’ve noticed that guests are wanting massive value for money and great special packages, while also looking to regain a bit of normality within the abnormal situation in which we are living. Retail sales have definitely been slower than in previous years.”

online @ probeauty.co.za

Image by Social Butterfly from Pixabay

Erratic patterns

Ayesha Rajah of Urban Bliss Wellness Day Spa in Johannesburg has found business very busy at times, and really slow at others. “Weekends, though, are generally busy. We saw a good spike on Valentine’s Day, with lots of couples’ massages booked. Business was also great on Mother’s Day.” Rajah is already noticing that ‘the fear factor’ regarding a third wave of the pandemic has set in among clients.

Retail sales have dropped, with clients using products sparingly.

Steady growth

Nicola Kuhn, manager of Heavenly Spa by Westin in Cape Town, experienced a growth in the number of treatments performed from January to March, with a very slight drop in April.

“Retail, on the other hand, is definitely lower than previous years, as clients are now buying three products for the same amount of money they used to spend on a single product,” states Kuhn.

Multi-tasking

Lina Phetla, spa manager at Valley Lodge & Spa in the Magaliesberg, reports that since re-opening on 9 October last year, business has been really good.

“It’s almost as if people were waiting for us to re-open,” she states. “During weekends we are operating at 70% capacity in terms of staff, but because it’s much lower during the week, we are developing staff to multi-task. I noticed a decline in business in May, apart from Mother’s Day, due to the cold weather and clients fearing a third wave.”

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INDUSTRY NEWS

Professional Beauty gears up for physical event in July Boosting your business, advanced treatments & skincare, and nail techniques & treatments are the three conference streams at the Professional Beauty event on 4 and 5 July 2021, at Johannesburg’s Bryanston Country Club.

Delegates will also be able to see a number of exhibition stands manned by top professional brands that will be set up in each of the three conference rooms.

Says Professional Beauty’s commercial director, Phil Woods: “We are really excited about holding this event in July. It is a great opportunity for salon and spa owners, managers, therapists and nail techs to learn, exchange ideas and benefit from the speakers and topics we are putting together.

“Our three conference streams are repeated on both days. Therefore, if you attend the business stream on the Sunday (4 July) but wish to also hear about the advanced treatments too, then you can book that stream for the

Monday (5 July). This event is a great learning opportunity for those working in the industry.”

A day ticket gives you access to one of the three conference streams, although delegates will be allowed to visit the other two rooms during breaks to see what exhibitors there are showcasing. (This is as long as each room does not exceed its maximum capacity.)

Topics in the Boosting your business stream are: business management; staff management/ building a team; marketing initiatives; social media – what can it truly deliver; and innovation & new ideas.

In the Advanced Treatments & Skincare talks, the following topics will be covered: new treatment systems; how best to tackle teenage acne; active ingredients – what they do; and how skincare claims are investigated.

The perfect C curve, cuticle do’s and don’ts, myth busting on mixing product, and perfect nail art every time will be discussed in the Nail Treatments & Techniques conference stream.

To book your place go to https://www.probeauty.co.za/ online-store

Artificial blue light has negligible effect on skin, finds study New research from German multinational personal care company, Beiersdorf, maintains that concerns about the artificial blue light of laptops, tablets and smartphones are unfounded.

A Beiersdorf statement reads: “We are already well aware of the effects of the blue light from the sun, which is why there is suspicion that the artificial screen variant might also damage the skin – often on the basis of insufficient evidence. Beiersdorf research proves that the amount of artificial blue light emitted during conventional use of electronic devices is nowhere near enough to trigger harmful skin effects. If you were to spend an entire week in front of a monitor uninterrupted, at a distance of 30cm from the screen, this would be the same as just one minute

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Image by Gerd Altmann on Pixabay

outside on a sunny summer day in Hamburg at midday.

“Compared to the emissions of the sun’s natural blue light, those of artificial blue light are virtually undetectable.

Even if you were to sit close up to the screen, this would have little impact on the results. A 10-hour phone call on a smartphone, for example, would be equivalent to a minute in the sunlight.”

online @ probeauty.co.za

SKIN SERENITY, overnight science

Introducing New Focus Care Youth+® Seriénce™ Night Serum This advanced overnight booster targets the damaging effects of stress to reveal serene, luminous and youthful-looking skin.

Seriénce™ Night Serum is formulated with an intelligent Malachite-Neuropeptide Complex scientifically proven to protect, reset, relax and reconnect the skin from within, cell by cell, night after night.

Available in selected Environ salons from 6 July 2021.

Contact Environ Distribution South Africa on 011 262 0264 to place your order today.

INDUSTRY NEWS White Paper: The Future of Spa and Wellness launches to help spa businesses thrive

PJ Powers

Beauté Pacifique appoints SA brand ambassadors Danish medical-grade skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique, has appointed music icon, PJ Powers, and fitness professional, Katy Allderman, as its South African ambassadors.

Says Wayne La Grange of Beauté Pacifique Africa: “We are absolutely delighted to announce that the ever sassy and eternal flame, PJ Powers, will officially represent the Pacifique Paradoxe Line. PJ is 60 years old and still going beautifully strong.

“The magnificent Katy Allderman will be representing Beauté Pacifique and RapidLash. A biokineticist who runs her own practice, Katy is also a fitness model and recently featured on the front cover of Fitness SA magazine.”

La Grange notes that his team has spent several weeks in the Cape shooting the new ambassadors’ lifestyle movies.

Katy Allderman

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Professional Beauty Group has released a first-of-its-kind white paper, sharing insight from global spa executives on how to navigate a spa business through Covid-19.

During the early months of 2021, the group brought together 48 spa executives from around the world in 24 meetings, culminating in one interactive online event. This resulting white paper report outlines the best practical solutions shared by spa leaders from multinationals including Accor, Hilton and Six Senses, as well as boutique and destination spas.

The Professional Beauty and World Spa & Wellness White Paper on The Future of Spa & Wellness, supported by World Wellness Weekend, covers key topics including how to care for and motivate spa teams; bringing guests back safely and happily; and driving engagement from online to onsite, helping you take your spa to the next level.

Thirteen spa and wellness trends are covered in depth, with real-life examples of how to develop these for spa business growth. The trends are • Mental wellbeing for a productive and welcoming team • Fitness as a route to motivation and leadership • Sharpening processes and learning new skills • Diversity and transparency in communication • Using your team’s skills to embrace change • Wellness trends to entice new guests • Adapting practices to meet new challenges • Marketing personalised experiences • Understanding and targeting new guests • Navigating discounts to maintain your spa’s value • Constructing unique social media content • Focus on retail and vouchers to maintain cash flow • Streamlining online processes You can download a free copy of White Pape from World Spa & Wellness White Paper (worldspawellness.com)

online @ probeauty.co.za

Give a little extra love & care to under your eyes with RefectoCil’s Eye Care Pads, Silicone Pads or Eye Protection Papers.

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BUSINESS TIPS

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

Photo by freestocks.org from Pexels

How do I go about waxing a pregnant client?

Pregnancy is a very exciting time in any woman’s life, but growing thicker hair in unwanted places is just plain embarrassing. And, although pregnancy hormones and an increase in the oestrogen levels may lead to georgous skin, nails and hair, a hairy upper lip, belly or armpit is definitely unwanted.

Waxing during pregnancy provides a long-term solution and is perfectly safe. A client should always only go to an experienced esthetician, who will be aware of the best position to place the client in when waxing her. She will also know the correct waxing protocol and be aware of bacterial infections caused by re-using spatulas and strips.

The therapist will assist her client getting onto the bed, making sure that she is comfortable by elevating the back section of the bed. An experienced therapist will know how to reach all the areas without having her client turn around constantly. Lifting the legs to reach the butt and back of the legs is advisable. The therapist will know to be gentle and cautious as the skin might be super sensitive, especially in the pelvic area due to the increased blood flow to the skin during pregnancy. In turn, the client must communicate with her therapist regarding the position she feels most comfortable in.

It’s important that the therapist assist her client in getting up and off the bed after the procedure and ensure she doesn’t feel dizzy.

Protocol

Hot wax or film wax can be used on the sensitive areas, like the face, underarm and bikini area, and strip wax on the legs and full arms.

Waxing protocol must be followed at all times.

online @ probeauty.co.za

• Prepare the skin with an appropriate cleanser.

• Test the temperature before application.

• Use clean spatulas and strips with every application.

• Use a soothing antiseptic lotion afterwards to decrease irritation, lessen redness and help prevent infection.

• Always use a good quality, professional wax.

• Avoid areas with scar tissue, rashes, warts, open cuts, sunburnt skin and varicose veins.

Waxing is perfectly safe during pregnancy due to the fact that wax is not absorbed into the body. As such, it cannot affect the baby, providing the therapist avoids areas affected by melasma and linea nigra. This is only temporary and will in most cases disappear in six months.

The client must always check with her doctor for reasons why he/ she wouldn’t recommend waxing.

However, waxing is still the preferred method of hair removal and should be the client’s first option instead of shaving, tweezing, hair removal creams, bleaching and laser.

Getting waxed for the first time right before giving birth is not recommended.

Adri Maritz worked as trainer and area manager for Smart Buy Depilève for 23 years and now as area manager for Emsa Distributors for one year. She has built the Depilève brand in her area over the years and values her relationship with loyal customers immensely.

Email adri.martiz3@gmail.com

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BUSINESS TIPS

• Pressotherapy (air pressure machine) • High-intensity focused electromagnetic field (HIFEM) Only a few of the above technologies don’t have any regulatory requirements. Unregulated technologies include microneedling, colon therapy, microdermabrasion and pressotherapy.

For all of the other equipment on the list above, some form of regulation exists. This may be a required import licence or it may be a licence to use the machine, as in the case of high-power lasers.

These machines are regulated by the South African Health Products Regulating Authority (SAHPRA – https:// sahpra.org.za/).

Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels

Regulation of

aesthetic equipment in South Africa Most owners of aesthetic devices don’t realise that many of their machines are regulated by law.

Some people think that only lasers are regulated but that is not the case, writes Raymond Schoeman he aesthetic industry has become high-tech in the last decade and even the smallest home-based salon now has a handful of machines. Currently, many technologies are seen in South Africa, such as the following.

• Laser, IPL and LED • High-intensity focused ultrasound (HIFU), and unfocused ultrasound • Micro-needling • Cryolipolysis / cryotherapy • Microcurrent; • Microdermabrasion • Colon therapy

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Mandated by law

Few people in the aesthetic industry know about SAHPRA. Most assume that if they are registered with ITEC or CEDESCO or have a qualification from one of these, that they fulfil all regulations. This is not the true at all. Both ITEC and CEDESCO are leading, quality-mark authorities in the beauty industry, but they have no regulatory authority.

SAHPRA is part of government and is mandated by the laws of the country.

Most of the technologies from our list have a licensing obligation for the importer. Some, like class 3 and class 4 lasers, need both an import and user licence. If you don’t use a laser in your salon, but have a HIFU machine, you may think that you don’t have to worry about the importer’s licence. That is not true.

Although you are exempt from having to register and license your machine, you still insure it. Insurance companies are not obligated to pay claims related to illegal equipment. And, should you ever be involved in a malpractice dispute, you are by default at fault if you have been treating a client with an illegal machine.

It is of paramount importance that you ask the distributor for his SAHPRA licence before you buy. If you’re not sure about it, you can verify the licence with SAHPRA.

MOST PEOPLE ASSUME that if they are REGISTERED with ITEC or CEDESCO or HAVE A QUALIFICATION from one of these, that THEY FULFIL ALL REGULATIONS. This is not THE TRUTH at all.

Licences for lasers

Certain class 3 and all class 4 lasers need both importer and user licences. You cannot get a license as a user if the equipment doesn’t have a valid importer’s licence.

How do you know if you’re using a class 4 laser? If it can remove or peel, it is a class 4 laser. Hair removal, vein removal, pigmentation removal, tattoo removal (including permanent make-up), skin peels (including fractional treatments) and carbon peels require class 4 lasers.

What are the risks of buying and using lasers without a licence? You risk confiscation of the equipment and the accompanying fees for the safe destruction and recycling

online @ probeauty.co.za

BUSINESS TIPS

It is of PARAMOUNT IMPORTANCE that you ask THE DISTRIBUTOR for his SAHPRA licence BEFORE YOU BUY. If you’re NOT SURE ABOUT IT, you can VERIFY THE LICENCE with SAHPRA. of the machine. You are also responsible for any malpractice claims that may arise from a treatment with the machine. And again, if anything happens to the machine, your insurance company may decline to reimburse you. If you have bought the equipment with bank financing, you remain responsible for the repayment even though the equipment has been confiscated and recycled.

What can you do if you’re in a situation where you have imported your own equipment without a licence? Anyone can apply for an import licence and import equipment for themselves. SAHPRA allows for the retrospective applications of a licence if all criteria are met.

In reality, it is very seldom that equipment imported from China fulfils the requirements to get an importer’s licence.

South Africa requires an EC Directive 93/42/EEC certificate from the manufacturer. Since this is an expensive certificate for the manufacturer to get and maintain, most entry-level equipment manufactures don’t bother with it.

It still is your democratic right to have free choice regarding who you buy your equipment from. But, with all rights come a responsibility. If you choose to turn a blind eye, you will not see the unnecessary risks in which you put your business.

Resources: https://sahpra.org.za/; Summery of regulation specific to aesthetic lasers: https://www.lasercollege.org/ regulations-for-south-africa/

Raymond Schoeman is the founder and Head Course Coordinator of LaserCollege, a leading au-thority in aesthetic laser training. Schoeman started his career in the industry when he opened his first laser clinic in Pretoria in 2000. He is the author of two books: Textbook for Aesthetic La-ser Therapy and Aesthetic Laser Treatments – Insider Secrets.

NUTRITION

The skinny

on gluten

Photo by hermaion from Pexels

With spa food menus now often including a gluten-free option for guests, registered dietician nutritionist, Tabitha Hume, unpacks the hype and confusion around this controversial topic ou will not go to any supermarket or restaurant without encountering the words, ‘gluten-free’ and wonder if a gluten-free product is healthier than its original counterpart. Well, it’s not!

In fact, cutting through the confusing hysteria of a multi-million rand gluten-free industry (as well as completely unscientific garbage on social media) leads to a very different story.

Some people have a disorder called coeliac sprue, which is a very serious allergy/ immune response to the protein gluten, resulting in extreme pain, diarrhoea and malabsorption – problems that usually lead to hospital visits and long-term secondary complications due to a severely damaged GIT (Gastrointestinal Tract) lining.

However, this disorder is very rare. More commonly discussed is a non-coeliac gluten sensitivity, where ingestion of large amounts of gluten-containing wheat leads to wind, bloating and discomfort, which can feel like IBS (Irritable Bowel Syndrome).

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ACCORDING to several DOUBLE-BLIND STUDIES, it was FOUND THAT it is NOT actually THE GLUTEN causing the problems, but THE WHEAT. Wheat

According to several double-blind studies, it was found that it is NOT actually the gluten causing the problems, but the wheat. In fact, further studies showed that patients presenting with a gluten sensitivity did not react at all to glutencontaining foods, but reacted to wholewheat products.

Another study then showed that patients put on an IBS diet showed huge improvements, even when including disguised wheat products.

This led to the conclusion that gluten sensitivity is a completely off-the-mark problem, where it is actually IBS, whose symptoms of bloating, windiness and distention are improved not by removing wheat or gluten, but by adjusting the types of fibre intake for IBS. Interestingly, however, some people that follow a glutenfree diet have reported a slight improvement in mood, which has not been proven or disproven by research, so the jury is out!

online @ probeauty.co.za

In an unstable and changing world, it is sometimes difficult to stick to ones promises and commitments. Guinot is committed to the Professional Industry and has been for over 50 years.

Guinot is loyal to the Professional Industry, always has been…always will be. To secure your professional future, call on us.

011 305 1600/info@twincare.co.za or visit www.twincare.co.za

NUTRITION Glyphosate

Another reason why wheat products can cause boating and pain is due to the presence on the external fibrous part of the wholegrain wheat of Glyphosate (RoundUp), which is a herbicide used extensively in the farming of wheat. This has been linked to a decreased activity of probiotics found in the human gastrointestinal tract.

These ‘good’ bacteria found in the GI tract are responsive not only for overseeing the correct digestive response to foods and fibre ingested, but also the inflammatory and immune processes in the blood.

In a nutshell, it appears that it may be the glyphosate rather than the wheat/ gluten that is causing the problem in the gut. What can one do about this? I would suggest that you only buy organic wheat products, or avoid the wholegrain wheat products, as with an IBS diet. And take heavy doses of probiotics.

Improvement in gut function What is also VERY IMPORTANT to note here is that MANY GLUTEN-FREE PRODUCTS available now are even MORE UNHEALTHY in many other ways than GLUTENCONTAINING FOODS, so no longer is the ‘gluten-free’ option better, even for GLUTEN-INTOLERANT patients.

Other studies that showed an improvement in gut function when eliminating wheat also showed a marked increase in the consumption of fruits, vegetables and starchy root veg, than the diets people were eating before. These diets included predominantly bread, fatty and high protein foods, coupled with a low fruit and veg consumption. This diet profile has been associated with an overgrowth of bad bacteria in the gut, which would contribute to very poor digestion and an increased propensity to fermentation and windproduction.

Keeping the wheat in the diet and merely increasing the fruit and vegetable content, as well as increasing good probiotics had a much higher incidence of symptoms reduction than elimination of wheat or gluten.

What is also very important to note here is that many gluten-free products available now are even more unhealthy in many other ways than gluten-containing foods, so no longer is the ‘gluten-free’ option better, even for gluten-intolerant patients.

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High GI

Many gluten-free products are showing to be high GI (Glycemic Index), leading to blood sugar level and pancreatic stress.

So, unless you have been diagnosed with coeliac sprue, having gluten-free products can actually worsen many other problems in your body, especially for those suffering from diabetes or hypoglycaemia.

Many people are ill-informed by well-meaning doctors to eliminate gluten for thyroid disorders, such as Hashimotos.

This elimination is only necessary if there is a clear presence of full coeliac sprue, as the autoimmune response also harms the thyroid. However, with a mere gluten sensitivity, there is no link to thyroiditis at all.

Diagnostic tests

In terms of diagnostic tests, it is important to know what is what. Increasingly popular are the extremely expensive IgG blood tests, which I do not recommend. These tests show if the body has ever reacted to a foodstuff, and will show up many different foods for elimination, which is totally unnecessary, as many of these no longer induce an inflammatory response.

The best is to send the patient for a transglutaminase IgA test for coeliac sprue. If this eliminates that diagnose, then improving the nutritional content of the diet (still including gluten, but also including a probiotic load) is the next step.

If symptoms don’t improve, then elimination of gluten can occur, but with a view to reintroduce it again once symptoms are completely gone (i.e. the inflammation has healed).

To conclude – while gluten sensitivity is certainly a hot topic, its proven existence is as yet unclear according to the research.

It is important to evaluate and improve the diet and eliminate all other pathologies before considering a gluten-free diet, as it is more associated with other health problems, such as weight gain, poor quality of food flavours and increased cost, to name but a few.

For the rest of us? Gluten is a fantastic, cheap and versatile plant-based protein used to make many delicious foods.

Tabitha Hume is a Registered Dietician Nutritionist, BSc (MED) (HONS) Nutrition & Dietetics U.C.T. She is the author of five best-selling books and is a regular contributor to the media. Hume currently works in Fourways, Johannesburg, at The Sports Injury Clinic, specialising in endocrinological and metabolic disorders, as well as anorexia and bulimia nervosa. Email tabitha@tabithahume.com

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INTERVIEW

Talking to…

Dr Debbie Norval Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to Dr Debbie Norval, current president of the Aesthetic and Anti-Aging Medicine Society of South Africa (AAMSSA), about the state of the industry in South Africa

Prior to the advent of the pandemic last year, how was the aesthetics sector faring in South Africa?

The medical aesthetic industry was growing rapidly worldwide as well as locally.

As the majority of patients who have medical or surgical cosmetic treatments fall within in a higher income demographic, they have not been significantly affected by the COVID-19 economy.

What sort of feedback have you had from AAMSSA members regarding how business has been since lockdown ended, particularly in 2021?

Interestingly, the demand for aesthetic procedures has actually increased during the pandemic. While there was a restriction on purely aesthetic procedures

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INTERVIEW

during Level 5 lockdown, because aesthetic practitioners are general practitioners they were able to continue seeing patients who needed urgent or chronic care. Since Level 4 lockdown, demand for aesthetic procedures continued to rise steadily. Aesthetic doctors are seeing a lot of stress-related skin and body conditions, such as weight gain, mask related acne breakouts and tension headaches. People are working virtually

AESTHETIC TREATMENTS are known to ENHANCE MOOD, SELF-ESTEEM AND MORALE, all desperately needed in these challenging times. MOST OF ALL, PEOPLE have treatments simply to FEEL MORE IN CONTROL in a world turned upside down.

should be practiced from a primary medical facility and not from the local hairdressing salon or spa.

Does AAMSSA have regulatory powers?

The Health Professions Council of South Africa (HPCSA) is the regulatory authority for doctors and has statutory powers. AAMSSA is not a regulatory body but a society representing doctors working in the aesthetics and anti-aging industry. Our primary function is to maintain high standards of care and medical ethics, establish safety protocols and best practice guidelines. AAMSSA is involved with training, education, research and publication.

If news of an unethical aesthetics practice or practitioner comes to the attention of AAMSSA, what action do you take?

As mentioned above, AAMSSA is not a regulatory body. Its role is to guide and assist, and not to police its members.

We do have many practical guidelines that are useful to

from home, so are more flexible with their visits to the aesthetic doctor. It’s also easier to hide any downtime or possible bruises behind a mask or computer screen. Aesthetic treatments are known to enhance mood, self-esteem and morale, all desperately needed in these challenging times.

Most of all, people have treatments simply to feel more in control in a world turned upside down.

What action did AAMSSA take when COVID-19 happened?

AAMSSA was proactive in publishing COVID guidelines for every level of lockdown. These are detailed documents based on international recommendations with information on how to manage a practice safely during the pandemic, including sanitisation and sterilisation protocols.

These guidelines also include determining risk levels of the different treatments and the appropriate PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) to be used per risk level.

What are the biggest challenges facing the aesthetics industry in South Africa?

One of the biggest challenges is maintaining high standards of care. Thankfully, in South Africa standards are generally high in that only qualified medical doctors may inject botulinum toxin and dermal fillers. But with more and more doctors deciding to try their hand at aesthetics, we seem to find an aesthetic centre around every corner!

Many of these doctors have not had formal post graduate training in aesthetic medicine and are not registered with AAMSSA. Another challenge is that of aesthetic doctors working from salons and spas. Aesthetic medicine

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Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

educate a doctor who may be overstepping the line. For example, a guideline on the correct use of social media.

These guidelines are based on the HPCSA clinical and ethical rules. Often the doctor is not even aware that they are infringing on a medico-legal law and simply needs to be alerted to the fact. However, if a doctor is acting in a way that could endanger a patient, the matter is escalated to the HPCSA. If it involves unsafe or illegal use of medicines or devices, it would be reported to the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA). If an individual is acting illegally (e.g. a non-medical person impersonating a doctor), the police may have to be involved.

What is AAMSSA’s definition of aesthetic & anti-ageing medicine?

Aesthetic medicine is, by definition, non-surgical cosmetic medicine that involves non-invasive and minimally invasive procedures. So the majority of our work is medical, which means that it does not involve a scalpel. Surgical cosmetic procedures should be performed by a plastic and reconstructive surgeon and not by an aesthetic GP.

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INTERVIEW

AAMSSA also works closely with the South African Society for Dermatologic Surgery (SASDS). These specialist dermatologists treat more serious skin conditions, such as malignant melanoma. That said, aesthetic practitioners are GPs and so we often perform minor surgical interventions, such as removing benign skin lesions like moles and warts.

What have been the most popular aesthetic & anti-aging treatments over the past year?

All the common aesthetic procedures have remained popular, such as botulinum toxin, dermal fillers, chemical peels and thread-lifting. Collagen induction therapies, including laser and fractional ablative procedures, remain popular. Integrative or functional medicine has taken on a new level of importance and priority during the pandemic.

Patients are now able to have more invasive and ablative treatments that have several days downtime as they are working virtually, are much more flexible and can hide behind a mask! Treatments and products that are sensitive

With more and MORE DOCTORS DECIDING TO TRY their hand at AESTHETICS, we seem to find an AESTHETIC CENTRE around every corner! Many of these doctors have not had formal POST GRADUATE TRAINING in AESTHETIC MEDICINE and are not registered with AAMSSA. to ‘COVID budgets’ are appreciated.

How many members do you have?

AMSSA has 300 members, including all graduates from the FPD Advanced Diploma of Aesthetic Medicine and the AAAM (American Academy of Aesthetic Medicine). It is not an automatic process to become an AAMSSA member, as doctors need a certain level and quality of training and experience before being accepted as a full member. We estimate that about a third of doctors working in aesthetics in South Africa are members of the society. We would obviously like this number to be much higher. It would help if the public insisted that their aesthetic doctor was an accredited member of AAMSSA. Then a lot more doctors would apply for registration and this will help raise standards in South Africa.

What are the advantages of being a member of AAMSSA?

Being a member assures the public that the doctor is a safe, ethical, well trained and accredited aesthetic practitioner. AAMSSA supports its members in career development, added exposure, education and skills development. Members have access to the AAMSSA guidelines and recommendations to safe practice, to journal clubs, conferences, seminars, webinars and workshops. Furthermore, AAMSSA members have access to expert opinion and assistance in managing any

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challenging cases and complications.

How does AAMSSA go about uplifting standards in the industry?

AAMSSA falls under the umbrella organisation, the International Union of Aesthetic Medicine (UIME). Collaboration with international societies enables us to ensure we are keeping the standard of aesthetic medicine at the highest possible level, as well as keeping up with this rapidly advancing field of medicine. Locally, AAMSSA endorses the FPD two year Advanced Diploma in Aesthetic Medicine, and endorses and makes up the scientific committee of the annual Aesthetic Medicine Congress of South Africa (AMCSA). The society is involved in several other educational initiatives as well as research, writing and development in the field.

What legislation relates to therapists working with aesthetic doctors?

In order to work with patients, a doctor may only employ medical personnel who are registered with one of the medical statutory bodies, e.g.

HPCSA, AHPCSA (Allied Health Professions Council of South Africa) or SANC (South African Nursing Council). Beauty therapists and somatologists are not registered as medical professionals and work with ‘clients’, not with patients. So for a therapist to work in the same practice as a doctor, they should not be employed by the doctor but by a separate non-medical company. Doctors cannot be in partnership with a therapist, or be employed by a therapist.

Photo by Atikah Akhtar on Unsplash

Does legislation exist for the marketing of aesthetic services?

HPCSA has very strict rules regarding canvassing, touting and unprofessional advertising. A beauty salon may not advertise on behalf of a doctor, or mention scheduled medicine trade names, or Class D Medical Devices (this includes all injectables, such as botulinum toxin, fat dissolving injections or dermal fillers). A doctor is not allowed to mention trade names, prices, post price lists, specials or discounts in their advertising or on social media. However, it is legal for therapists to advertise their non-medical treatments, e.g. massage or microdermabrasion.

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INTERVIEW THERE HAVE BEEN some recent reports of DOCTORS illegally importing UNREGISTERED PRODUCTS and medicines. This is a SERIOUS SAFETY CONCERN because, if MEDICATIONS aren’t stored properly, they may not WORK AS PROMISED. Are there rules pertaining to aesthetic medical procedures being performed in a salon or spa?

When aesthetic medical procedures are performed in a salon or spa, it is on premises that are non-clinical and unregulated. Although it is not illegal to have a doctor working in a salon or spa, it is not encouraged by AAMSSA. It is quite a complicated business for it to be done correctly and make sure you’re prepared for a visit from the health inspector!

Regarded as an ‘undesirable practice’ by the HPCSA, doctors who choose to work in a salon or spa have to strictly comply with all HPCSA laws, rules and guidelines in order to safely practice medicine in a non-clinical setting.

Some examples of these HPCSA rules are that a doctor may not share rooms with a person who is not a doctor and registered in terms of the Health Professions Act. The doctor’s consulting room must have a separate entrance, reception and seating area, where patients are separated from the public. The consulting room must be a separate walled-off room for the privacy of patients, the preservation of confidentiality, and the safe keeping of records. Medical hygiene must be strictly adhered to with a washing station, personal protective equipment, (such as gloves and gowns), a medical waste and sharps disposal protocol and adequate sterilisation equipment.

There needs to be a blood-borne pathogen and exposure control plan, incidents and needle stick injury protocol, as well as resuscitation equipment, such as emergency drugs, oxygen and a defibrillator.

The doctor may not pay or receive any commission or share any income with the salon/ spa and must manage their own appointments and invoicing, using their own separate payment system. Furthermore, the doctor may not order medical grade cosmeceutical products for the salon/ spa.

Please talk about your work as a member of the Ethics & Professionalism Committee.

AAMSSA and SAAHSP – The Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry jointly formed the Professionalism and Ethics Committee in 2018 in order to develop scope of practice guidelines for the different levels of therapist working in the aesthetics industry, from beauty therapist and somatologist through to the advanced diploma in

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Dermal Aesthetics. The committee focuses on safe practices, helping therapists to understand what treatments they are permitted to perform with or without the supervision of a medical doctor.

Are there any other issues are affecting the industry?

There have been some recent reports of doctors illegally importing unregistered products and medicines. This is a serious safety concern

Photo by Sam Moqadam on

AAMSSA’S COLLABORATION with international societies ENABLES US TO ENSURE we are MAINTAINING THE STANDARD of AESTHETIC MEDICINE at the highest possible level, as well as keeping up with this rapidly ADVANCING FIELD of medicine. because, if medications aren’t stored properly, they may not work as promised. Exposure to light, humidity and different temperatures can break down the active ingredient of the drug, making it less effective and – in rare cases – even toxic. If a doctor is offering neurotoxin injections or dermal fillers at a price that is ‘too good to be true’, then it is probably acquired illegally and is not safe. In South Africa, it is a requirement to be a registered medical doctor to inject fillers, botulinum toxin and mesotherapy.

The rise in popularity of IV therapy with intravenous cocktails such as energy boosters and immune boosters is a concern if performed in a non-clinical setting, without a doctor’s assessment, blood tests, prescription or supervision. .A nurse administering IV therapy should only be working under medical supervision. If there is no doctor prescribing your IV drip, then it is not only dangerous but unlawful.

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WELLNESS

Wendy Newstadt demonstrates qigong

Tapping into the body’s energy centre Joanna Sterkowicz is invited by the Oxford Healthcare Retreat to experience a qigong class, an ancient Chinese movement, breathing and healing technique

ever having heard of qigong before, I was very interested to learn about this exercise form and also to find out why it has been incorporated into packages offered by the Oxford Healthcare Retreat in Melrose, Johannesburg.

Said Retreat manager, Karen Turis: “As a boutique wellness guesthouse and specialist healthcare and stress detox facility, we offer several packages and whenever a guest books in with us, we add

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qigong to their daily schedule. We find that qigong has great benefits for people in terms of quieting the mind, as it’s very calming and relaxing. Somehow, the body just feels alive and relaxed after a session. We also encourage as many staff members who can to join the classes.

“Another big advantage of qigong is that it is one of those exercise styles that almost anyone can do. It’s not like yoga, where some people can do it, while others can’t as it’s a little bit more challenging to perform. The qigong classes seem to be beneficial for most people, so this is why we really do love it at the Oxford Healthcare Retreat. Our classes are also open to non-guests.”

Connecting to nature

Qigong classes at the Retreat are presented by Wendy Newstadt, a South African former dance teacher who studied qigong with Grandmaster Nan Lu in New York, while studying and graduating as a shiatsu therapist from Ohashi Institute of Shiatsu in New York in 1997.

My class was held, barefoot, on the grass in the beautiful gardens of the Retreat as, according to Newstadt, an important element of the qigong technique involves being connected to nature.

Said Newstadt: “Because you do qigong outside, it

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WELLNESS ‘The 8 Brocades’

While there is a plethora of different movements in qigong, the most famous is a set of moves known as ‘The 8 Brocades’, several of which we did in the class. Newstadt described this as: ‘eight silken movements that are designed to make the body and its energy move smoothly, like a piece of silk’.

One of the moves pertains to the earth’s energy and scooping this up in your arms. Then there is an arm stretch, to connect the earth and sky. Another exercise involves holding an imaginary ball, where you think of the central point as being the middle of the palms of the hands, and you connect the hands by holding the imaginary ball and turning it around on its axis.

In demonstrating another of the moves – ‘drawing the

TO ME, the downfall of the modern WORLD EXERCISE is that it IS MECHANICAL only – there is no connection to the MIND, BODY OR SPIRIT. I refer to qigong as ‘MEDITATION IN MOTION’, because it’s slow and grounding. reminds you of the elements of nature.

Qigong is connected to the five elements – earth, air, fire, water and space. In Chinese medicine, every organ in the body is connected to the elements.”

Relation to martial arts

Newstadt pointed out that while qigong itself is not actually categorised as a martial art, it is comprised of the introductory exercises one would do in a martial arts class, such as tai chi, for example.

“You cannot be proficient in martial arts if your qi or energy (i.e. life force) is not strong,”

I THINK people need to STOP PUSHING and START CONNECTING with THEIR BODIES in a gentle manner to get HEALING AND ENERGY. explained Newstadt. “The ‘gong’ part of qigong means ‘to cultivate’. So by doing qigong, you cultivate your energy. Any good marital artist would be very strong in the qigong technique.”

Traditionally, music is not used in qigong but because of Newstadt’s extensive dance background, she does use soothing music at some points in the class and incorporates dance moves, particularly in the warm-up.

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bow’ – Newstadt noted that when COVID-19 broke out in China, the government encouraged its citizens to do this particular movement as it strengthens the lung energy.

In another move – ‘separating heaven and earth’ – your two hands hold up heaven. There is also a movement called, ‘wise owl gazing backwards’.

Slow exercise form

Newstadt believes that as the world gets more chaotic, qigong becomes more a practice in its own right, connecting you to your body and energy. “People in my classes have responded to qigong very well; they like it because it is so gentle,” she commented. “Not only are you strengthening your own energy through qigong, you are also simultaneously building up your strength.

“To me, the downfall of the modern world exercise is that it is mechanical only – there is no connection to the mind, body or spirit. I refer to qigong as ‘meditation in motion’, because it’s slow and grounding. Furthermore, because you are working with breath, it is calming. Working with the various positions helps open up the meridians in the body and you are working on your posture at the same time.

Everything is done slowly. Apart from yoga, I can’t think of any other exercise form that is slow.”

She explained that qigong works with the dan tien (i.e. energy centre) – the key focus is the centre of energy flow, which is the important for this meditation and exercise technique. In qigong, your body is seen as an energy field, an energy centre in various ways. Your feet root you and your crown connects you to the sky.

“Qigong gives you the chance to move around but not in a push-push way. I think people need to stop pushing and start connecting with their bodies in a gentle manner to get healing and energy. “ Newstadt presents qigong classes at the Retreat for non-guests at 9am on a Saturday and at 4pm on Wednesday.

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BUSINESS TIPS

To increase or not to increase?

Photo by Christiann Koepke on

Spa consultant Marisa Dimitriadis delves into the subtle art of increasing your prices was asked the following question a few days ago by a business owner in our industry: “How do we increase our prices gently so that we don’t lose clients?”

This is a strange question to me because I don’t see this issue how most of you probably see it, in that you don’t really want to increase prices and you are afraid to lose clients over it. Let’s take a step back and first look at all the reasons when a price increase needs to be considered. Then I will give you some ideas on the ‘how to’ part.

When should you consider putting up your prices?

1. If you are fully booked and need to find a way to manage demand.

2. When you want to change the services demand to higher spend services.

3. If you are introducing more advanced therapies or services that require a higher level of certification or qualification from the practitioner.

4. If you are in an inflationary market and don’t increase your prices, your margins will reduce.

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5. When your suppliers pass on a price increase.

6. You don’t have enough cash to drive growth and scale.

Below are various ways to increase prices.

Competitor analysis

Firstly, do a thorough competitor analysis as better decisions are made with more information. I recommend you include the following information in your competitor analysis.

TREATMENT

BRAND

TX COST

SELLING PRICE

YOUR SPA PRICE

MARK UP

SALON/ SPA A

SALON/ SPA B

SALON/ SPA C

0

0

0

#DIV/0!

0

0

0

0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0

#DIV/0! #DIV/0! #DIV/0! #DIV/0!

0

0

0

0 0 0

0 0 0

0 0 0

Use at least three different salons/ spas for comparison, two of which are considered as your direct competition (i.e. meaning of similar size and nature to your business), and one that is a similar business in another area (i.e. not in close proximity to you).

Before you even compare pricing with another

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BUSINESS TIPS

business you need to ensure you have all of your own information ready, like cost and selling price, which then calculates your mark up.

Without this, your price comparison exercise will be a waste of time. If you are looking at increasing a price, for example where your margin is so low on that service that the type of increase needed is far too high for your clients to bear in one go, then you may need to either remove that item from the treatment menu, or repackage it completely.

Use the need to increase prices to also evaluate your services and profit on them, because you may want to restructure your menu all together. But you can only do this with accurate costs.

BEFORE you even COMPARE PRICING with ANOTHER BUSINESS you need to ENSURE YOU HAVE all of your own INFORMATION READY, like COST AND SELLING PRICE, which then CALCULATES your mark up.

Ample notice

You need to give ample notice of a price increase – even as much as 60 days – and allow clients to buy in for two or three months. Sooner or later they will be paying higher prices and this can give you a little cash flow boost while you test the higher pricing model. Honesty is the best policy so be open with clients and communicate long in advance.

Keep reminding clients of the pending increase and offer packages of vouchers so they choose whether they want to buy forward, or pay higher prices. Be clear on the exact amount you are going to increase, so give a percentage as well as give an example of the actual rand value increase on a service. Tell clients the reasons why you are increasing the price and list those reasons.

Separate pricing

Have separate pricing for loyal clients so that you boost client retention and reward them for loyalty. This is because loyalty programmes are going to become key to client retention. If you don’t have some form of loyalty prograamme already, then best you start thinking about introducing one and implementing it, because sooner or later some other salon or spa’s programme is going to attract attention and your clients will move to where they feel more valued.

If your clients PERCEIVE THE VALUE they get to be HIGHER THAN the PRICE THEY PAY, then they will have NO OBJECTIONS to a PRICE INCREASE. Value and worth

Maximise value and be clear about your worth.

If your clients perceive the value they get to be higher than the price they pay, then they will have no objections to a price increase. To give an example, if your massages are premium price, then outline all the reasons why they are premium. These could include personalised high quality massage oils, hot steam towel infusions on the feet, and the choice of one tool to enhance the massage. These are just examples but if you want to charge a premium rate for massages, then you better have a good reason to charge premium and ensure that the value proposition is clear.

Therapist levels

You may also want to introduce different pricing for different levels of therapists, depending on qualifications and experience. This works so well in the hairdressing model and there is no reason why it won’t work in the beauty/ wellness/ aesthetic space.

High demand times

Charging higher prices for high demand times is not a new concept in the pricing model world, but it does seem to be taking our industry longer to implement it and I’m not sure why. If a client wants a treatment at peak times, then they must pay peak prices, it’s that simple. So offer the price points and let the client choose.

This is a great strategy to use to fill up your quieter spots by offering reduced prices or special packages.

Hopefully the above pointers provide some direction and a starting point for implementing a price increase or treatment menu revamp.

Remember that, as mentioned previously, a competitor analysis with your costs and mark up clearly indicated is a must to start this process.

Marisa Dimitriadis if the founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. Email marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za

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PEELING

Treating skin on different areas of the body with chemical peels

Typically in a salon environment, the most common areas for peeling treatments are the client’s face, neck and décolleté. However, it is perfectly viable to peel other parts of the body, as Skin iD Skin Studio owner, Sonette Donker, explains Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

reating skin on the body with chemical peels can be very effective. We mostly treat photo-damage (uneven pigment, rough texture and wrinkles), but chemical peels are very effective in the treatment of acne, scars and hyperpigmentation on body areas. Skin thickness and Fitzpatrick photo-types are the two major considerations that determine treatment protocol.

Stratum Corneum µm

Cellular Epidermis µm

Total Epidermis µm

Pigmentation (%)

Blood Content (%)

Forearm Dorsal

18.3 (4.9)

56.6 (11.5)

74.9 (12.7)

35.2 (6.0)

22.4 (6.9)

Shoulder

11.0 (2.2)

70.3 (13.6)

81.3 (13.5)

25.5 (5.7)

31.1 (9.4)

Buttock

14.9 (3.4)

81.5 (15.7)

96.5 (16.1)

16.4 (4.2)

29.6 (5.7)

All Body Sites

14.8 (4.8)

68.9 (17.0)

83.7 (16.6)

26.2 (9.3)

27.6 (8.4)

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Prepare the skin

Preparation is key to prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and to ensure optimum results.

Prepare the body skin 3 to 4 weeks prior to the peel with home care products and a light hydroxy acid peel.

The best ingredients to prepare the body skin are as follows: 1% Retinol Pigment inhibitors such as; • Kojic Acid • Arbutin • Niacinamide • Phytic Acid • Licorice Extract • Mandelic Acid

Course of treatments

When treating body skin you would normally perform a course of treatments consisting of 4 treatments every 2 to 4 weeks, depending on how long the client takes to complete the peeling process. After a course of treatments have been completed, rest the skin for at least 1 month before doing

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PEELING

another course if needed. As maintenance, the client can have a peel on that area every 6 to 8 weeks and use the prescribed homecare on that area.

During the course of treatments the client needs to use pigment inhibitors, post-peel cream and sun protection, as recommended by the professional.

Treating the different areas

PREPARATION IS KEY to prevent post-inflammatory HYPERPIGMENTATION (PIH) and to ensure OPTIMUM RESULTS.

The most popular peeling acid used on the body is TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid), as it helps to remove the damaged skin cells. TCA peels are also available in a variety of strengths and more than one layer can be applied to make it even stronger.

Chest/ Décolleté • TCA 15%+ strength • 2-3 layers • Use gauze to apply to create more friction and increase the effectiveness • Downtime: 10-14 days (actual skin peeling) Hands and arms • TCA 18% or 20% strength (only Fitzpatrick 1-3) • 2 layers applied with gauze • 1 layer spot treatment applied to liver spots with a cotton tip • Downtime: 10 -14 days Feet and legs • TCA 18% or 20% strength (Fitzpatrick 1-3) • 2 layers applied with gauze • 1 layer spot treatment on age spots with cotton tip • Downtime: 10 -14 days

When the SKIN IS THIN, you need to BE CAREFUL that your peel doesn’t PENETRATE DEEPER than your TARGET SKIN layer.

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

The general health of a client is vital as this will affect the results and healing times. A smoker, for example, will take twice as long to heal as a non-smoker.

It’s important to note that some medications thin the epidermis, such as Cortisone, Retin-A creams/gels or Roaccutane. When the skin is thin, you need to be careful that your peel doesn’t penetrate deeper than your target skin layer. Most professionals wait 3-6 months for the skin to return to its normal thickness before they will do a peel.

The impact of a client’s lifestyle due to downtime is important as many clients don’t want to be seen with a peeling skin. So plan around any special events the client needs to attend.

It is always vital to follow a product manufacturer’s specifications. Ensure you get in-depth training on the product and treatment protocol before you perform a peel on your client.

Considerations

Fitzpatrick photo-type 1-3 is easy to treat as you can use a strong solution, however 4-6 are too high risk for PIH, so limit the strength to 15%. The minute you get grey/ white frosting on a darker skin, you know you have penetrated the dermis and could cause PIH. Rather do milder treatments and more in a course on darker skin, i.e. 15% TCA for 6 treatments every 3 weeks.

Sonette Donker is a qualified professional skincare therapist who has worked in the professional skincare industry for 20 years, for companies such as Dermalogica, Nimue Skin International, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies and pHformula. She has travelled the world presenting at congresses, press events and medical conferences and is regarded as an expert in her field. Email sonette@skinid.co.za

*Epidermal Thickness at Different Body Sites: Relationship to Age, Gender, Pigmentation, Blood Content, Skin Type and Smoking Habits JANE SANDBY-MØLLER1, THOMAS POULSEN2 and HANS CHRISTIAN WULF1 1 Department of Dermatology, Bispebjerg Hospital, University of Copenhagen, Copenhagen and 2Department of Pathology, Sønderborg Sygehus, Sønderborg, Denmark

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33

PEELING

What lies beneath Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels

In salon terms, winter is peeling season, as this is an ideal time to perform chemical peels on clients for skin rejuvenation purposes, as well as to treat acne and pigmentation

Cool Peel

The beauty in the Environ Cool Peel technology is that it is formulated by a world renowned plastic surgeon who understands what the skin needs. As such, Dr Des Fernandes (‘Dr Des’) has created intelligent formulations for skincare professionals to work with.

Says Dr Des: “Through consultation, your skincare professional will select the appropriate Environ Cool Peel for your skin.

The intelligence in this technology lies in that it only removes the skin cells on the stratum corneum, which no longer have a function, therefore assisting with the skin’s natural desquamation process. And, through cell communication, the Cool Peel will assist with stimulating growth factors in the basal layer

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of the skin. Furthermore, through cell turnover, the skin will be radiant and smooth, with a cooling effect during the treatment.

“The skincare professional will be able to select between our gel or cream peels to

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PEELING

achieve the desired results. We do recommend a course of peels with the home use of Environ vitamin A moisturisers, as we believe that vitamin A is like oxygen for the skin, and this is in fact where the skin journey begins.”

Environ Cool Peel technology is able to make use of TCA (Trichloroacetic) and lactic acid in its peel formulations. The texture of Cool Peels allows skincare professionals control and ease of application, which instills confidence with each application.

“Through our research and trials, we have found that our formulations work beautifully to reveal, and bring to life, a radiant skin. It is important to remember that home care will always go hand in hand with all professional treatments, and the commitment to the skin journey is not only happening in the skincare professional’s room, but the magic also happens at home with Environ vitamin A moisturisers. In addition, protection from our sunscreens is also advised.

“We can confidently share that Environ Cool Peels are suitable for all skin types, conditions and ages, as well as all phototypes. Which makes them ideal for all skins,” concludes Dr Des.

Night-Reveal 10

From Matis, Night-Reveal 10 is an overnight corrective peel positioned as a non-invasive alternative to cosmetic surgery that helps to speed up cell renewal and fight the visible signs of ageing.

Says Lisa Charlton, national education manager for Matis: “The ultra-effective ingredient – glycolic acid – is combined with hyaluronic acid (HA) to re-plump the skin and reduce wrinkles. Post use, the complexion is even and the wrinkles less visible. The client can see visible results from the very first morning.”

Charlton explains that HA is a glycosaminoglycan naturally present in the skin, which provides a filling and hydration role by attracting water. The HA present in

Night-Reveal 10 is a high molecular weight for surface smoothing.

Well known for its exfoliating, moisturising and even skin tone effects, glycolic acid is the smallest of the -hydroxy acids (AHAs).

Powerful in eliminating dead cells, it stimulates skin renewal, improves the texture and appearance of the skin, and reduces wrinkles and pigmentation spots.

Metamorphose

The Beauté Pacifique Medical Institute has introduced Metamorphose, a clinical re-programming of the skin, positioned as a ‘no downtime’ peel system alternative.

This clinical dermal programme includes medical actives for use by medical and advanced aestheticians only.

Epidermal integrity is perfectly preserved during the clinical exfoliation phase, hence no downtime. A high performance purification occurs during the clinical exfoliation, preparing the skin for the absorption of clinical actives.

Says Wayne La Grange of Beauté Pacifique Africa: “Metamorphose is the safe, medical-grade removal of dull looking and dead superficial cells, for instantly smoother, more even, younger skin with a beautiful rosy appearance. There is immediate, deep penetration of medicalgrade active ingredients, traced via free analysis with Beauté Pacifique’s DermaScan Ultrasound device.”

He notes that Metamorphose results in 25% more dense collagen fibres (as in much younger, firmer skin), as well as a 59% increase in the resting hydration level of the skin. It also repairs sun damage and oedema, makes uneven pigmentation more uniform (with Tyrostase Brown Pigment Equaliser), reduces and stabilises excessive sebum production, and reduces water loss in the skin by 17%.

By increasing blood flow, Metamorphose helps nourish skin cells and keep them vital.

Blood carries oxygen and nutrients to working cells, as well as moving away waste products, including free radicals.

Specialised clinical facial and retail products include: Clinical Super3 Booster; Clinical Super3 Exfoliator; and La Forte Collagen Booster Nutriceuticals.

Progressive Stage Peels online @ probeauty.co.za

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PEELING

DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care offers superficial to medium depth peels, working to resurface the skin whilst encouraging cellular renewal. Combining a variety of peeling agents including AHAs, BHAs, TCA and Vitamin A Propionate, DermaFix peels target various concerns including ageing, acne, hyperpigmentation, scarring and stretch marks.

The scientific DermaFix 4 Stage Progressive Peel incorporates Stage 1 application of DermaPeel with Salicylic Acid, a naturally occurring substance found in the bark of the willow tree, helping to prepare the skin for the application of the other peeling agents, whilst facilitating the loosening of corneocyte cells and aiding skin desquamation. This is followed by the Stage 2 and 3 application of Trichloroacetic TCA at different percentages, providing deeper peeling benefits. The peel is then rounded off with the application of Vitamin A Propionate in Stage 4. This peel aims to progressively work towards the required skin depth level on Fitzpatrick Skin Types I to VI. DermaPeel may also be used as a stand-alone peel across all skin types, and has an excellent safety profile as a therapeutic agent to treat hyperkeratotic epidermal lesions with substantial efficacy and minimal down time. It has also shown to enhance the penetration of Trichloroacetic acid TCA, according to the P.E. Grimes Division of Dermatology, Department of Medicine, David Geffen School of Medicine, University of California, Los Angeles.

Other peels offered in the DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care range include the DermaFix Beta Gel Peel, a Salicylic BHA and Lactic AHA combination peel facilitating deep cleansing of the skin, and the DermaFix DermaBright, a mini-peel incorporating Mandelic AHA for both at-home and in-clinic use.

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Skin resurfacing

The professionals at pHformula do not perform chemical peels, but rather skin resurfacing. Instead of high concentrations of single acids, they use a combination of acids at lower concentrations and therefore do not have to buffer nor neutralise the solutions, powerclays™ and / or complexes.

The resurfacing products are layer-andleave-on formulations.

Says pHformula South Africa master educator, Sunette Steenkamp: “We do not look at the pH level of the acids, but rather at their pKₐ level, in other words, how strong is the acid? Or, what is the acid’s ability to release hydrogen ions? Acids are basically just carriers of hydrogen-ions (protons) which, when released into the skin, will induce cytokines (chemical messengers) to stimulate the release of growth factors that will rejuvenate the skin.

“Due to pHformula’s unique delivery complex, PH-DVC™, the combination of acids are delivered at the desired moment and skin depth. The acids remain at maximum strength as they do not lie on the skin surface struggling to penetrate the skin, and are therefore not exposed to oxygen to decrease the concentration of the acids.

Less surface trauma equates to more client comfort.”

The combination of acids in the pHformula resurfacing products (solutions, powerclays™ and complexes) are not buffered with salt, so no neutralisation is required. This means that the protons (hydrogen-ions) remain active in the skin, where needed, to induce cytokines and as a result, growth factors. The growth factors restructure, regenerate and support skin functions. As pHformula uses a combination of acids and other actives, the client / patient receives a more comprehensive treatment that targets a variety of skin concerns at any given treatment.

PHformula’s skin resurfacing is not categorised into superficial, medium, and deep, but rather LEVEL 1, 2 and 3, according to the number of protons that is released at each level, i.e. a LEVEL 3, medical

online @ probeauty.co.za

PEELING

while the Pause Intro peel is for the teenager who cannot afford downtime due to their outdoor activity, or a client who is hesitant about peels, or one that does not have major skin concerns but wants to keep their skin in optimal health.

Azelaic Acid

Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels

professional only, resurfacing product will not penetrate deeper into the skin but will release 90% protons compared to the 30% of a LEVEL 1, and the 60% of a LEVEL 2 resurfacer.

The Professional M.E.L.A. Resurfacing Treatment (1,2 & 3 powerclay™) is a powerful blend of active ingredients (4-Butylresorcinol, Mandelic acid, Lactobionic acid, Salicylic acid, Lactic acid, Phytic acid, Retinol and PH-DVC™) that is uniquely formulated in a clay base to assist in the rapid and even penetration of the actives.

Surface To Cell

The SkinPhD Surface To Cell peels, formulated by renowned cosmetic scientist, Professor Aubrey Parsons, harness the positive components from various acids, but add a unique twist in the active ingredients left at a cellular level. This combination approach ensures that the modernday skin has the support it needs to heal and improve optimally. The Surface To Cell concept offers that immediate wow factor expected from a peel, whilst adding a daily, continuous skin changing effect.

Several options exist within the range, including the Pause Breakout, Pause Age and Pause Pigment Mild peels. The Pause Multi Boost peel can be incorporated into any mild peel, to boost results in a multi-concern skin without enhancing downtime,

online @ probeauty.co.za

The Azelaic Acid Peel 25% from SIX Aesthetix is a superficial depth chemical peel used to treat acne and pigmentation, especially in adults and darker skin types. Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in grains such as barley, rye and wheat.

Categorised as being in a class of medications called dicarboxylic acid, azelaic acid works to treat rosacea by decreasing the redness and swelling of the skin. It works to treat acne by killing the bacteria that infect pores and by decreasing production of keratin, a natural substance that can lead to the formation of acne. It also prevents what is known as melanin synthesis, the ability of your skin to produce pigments that can vary your skin’s tone.

Peel de Monaco

The RégimA Medic Peel de Monaco is an exclusive, very powerful treatment for doctors and highly skilled skincare professionals. Therapists are required to undergo special training for which they will be certificated when successful.

A combination of amazing new actives, some from the beautiful shores of Monaco, all possessing a proven action, focusing on anti-ageing and changing lives, have been carefully chosen to work in synergy.

Biobased Natural L-Lactic acid, produced by fermentation from carbohydrates, stimulates exfoliation and cell renewal, as well as providing moisturisation. It provides anti-ageing benefits, helping to obtain smoother, younger and brighter looking skin.

Some of the other exciting ingredients within RégimA Medic Peel are a natural alternative to retinol, Bakuchiol, offering several substantial advantages over retinol, such as a good safety profile, without causing unwanted side effects and excellent photostability, producing a significant decrease in wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, reduction in roughness, dryness, fine lines and wrinkles.

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Your way to ‘BETA’ Skin The DermaFix Clarifying Beta Booster facial is the ideal introductory protocol for those who are seeking the benefits of skin resurfacing without the potential downtime often associated with deeper chemical peeling.

Working to encourage removal of redundant skin cells whilst whisking away skin impurities, the skin is left looking radiant with a smoother, more refined skin texture.

ombining the resurfacing benefits of DermaFix Beta Gel Peel, formulated with Salicylic BHA and Lactic AHA, along with the oil control properties of Kaolin and Bentonite Clays found within the DermaFix Clari-Fine Clay Masque, this protocol is aimed towards oilier skin types as well as for ‘maskne’ and breakout-prone sufferers. It is especially popular amongst teenagers as a way to target stress- and hormone-related breakouts without interfering with school activities and social engagements.

On commencement of the facial, the skin is thoroughly cleansed using the appropriate DermaFix Cleanser and DermaFix Toner. Additional degreasing of the skin with medical grade 70% or 90% alcohol may be included should the client present with a particularly problematic or oilier skin.

Using an AHA-brush, a blend of DermaFix Beta Gel Peel and Clari-Fine Clay Masque is then applied in a thin layer to the skin and left on for 5-10 minutes as determined by the DermaFix Skin Care Professional. Remove thoroughly by cleansing the skin with DermaFix Gentle Cleansing Gel or DermaFix Calming MicroFoam Cleanser. Once removed,

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any larger pustular lesions may be spot targeted with DermaFix DermaBright or DermaFix 7.5% TCA Peel, applied directly to the lesion using a cotton bud.

The protocol ends with the application of DermaFix Vitamin C Serum or DermaFix Ferulic + C + E, providing boosted antioxidant protection alongside DermaFix DermaShield SPF 40 broad-spectrum UVA/UVB/HEV-Light sunscreen.

For additional home-care support, DermaFix Mattifying Pore Minimiser, DermaFix DermaBright or DermaFix Brightening Wipes may be considered to target persistent acne lesions and enlarged pores, as well to help brighten and even out skin tone. Daily protection against the harmful effects of UVA/UVB/HEV-light is always recommended.

For more information on the DermaFix Clarifying Beta Booster facial and the DermaFix Advanced Resurfacing protocols, contact the DermaFix Head Office directly on 0861282323.

online @ probeauty.co.za

HAIR NEWS

True to form

Fight against plastic pollution

Indola’s recently launched Act Now! range is partnering with Plastic Bank to prevent 1.5 million plastic bottles from entering the environment this year. For every Act Now! product sold, two plastic bottles are saved from ending up in the environment. The packaging for Act Now! products is made with up to 97% recycled and fully recyclable plastic.

011 617 2467

Holistic vegan brand, Authentic Beauty Concept, has introduced three brand new, co-created styling heroes. Nude Powder Spray adds instant lived-in volume and movement to dry hair, while Airy Texture Spray Gives crafted hair texture and pliable volume.

Nymph Salt Spray is a non-overburdening salt spray that creates effortless beach waves.

011 617 2467

Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front

A real tonic

The Bluebeards Revenge Classic Blend Hair Tonic helps to condition and moisturise the hair while stimulating circulation.

Locks look sleek and healthy, with repaired split ends and less dandruff. The light hold created by the tonic also makes hair easier to work with for professionals. This tonic has a sweet, modern barbershop fragrance.

021 448 8847

online @ probeauty.co.za

Curly top

The label.m Curl Define Collection tames and defines curly hair. This styling range is all about embracing the beauty of curly hair in all its types, whether it’s a loose wave or a tight, dense curl. The high performance formulations with naturally derived active ingredients include lotus flower extract, baobab oil and baobab seed oil extract and buriti oil.

061 855 8847

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AESTHETIC MEDICINE

Don’t sweat it!

Dr Ronel Du Toit explains what aesthetic treatment can be used to address the problem of severe sweating in patients

yperhidrosis, or excessive perspiration, involves the sweating of the body in excess to regulate a person’s body temperature.

Social anxiety and embarrassment can be normal causes for anybody to experience excessive sweating, which is clearly not a health-related issue.

As aesthetic physicians, we must evaluate clearly what the signs and symptoms are if a patient has complaints about excessive sweating.

Sweat glands are activated by the nerves in especially the feet, palms, face and underarm areas, on a frequent basis.

While it is NOT A LIFETHREATENING disease, it CAUSES EMBARRASSMENT and an UNCOMFORTABLE LIFESTYLE. Primary hyperhidrosis

It is important to take a highly specialised history of the onset of the hyperhidrosis because stress or anxiety can also cause this condition. While it sounds like a normal inclination, hyperhydrosis could be inherited from certain genes in a family history.

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Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

Secondary hyperhidrosis

The causes of secondary hyperhidrosis can be numerous, including heart diseases, diabetes, hyperthyroidism and infections. These infections, like HIV or malaria, can be very prominent in causing the sweating. We are all aware of the viral infection COVID-19, which became so prominent globally last year and even in patients diagnosed with COVID-19, sweating and high temperatures have been a severe symptom.

Diagnosis

The diagnosis can be quite complicated and the pattern of sweating plays the most important role. People who do not have hyperhidrosis will not sweat excessively in the palms of their hands, but a patient with hyperhidrosis will experience extreme sweating of the hands.

The treatment of this disease can be complicated if the correct diagnosis is not made. It is thus very important that patients with excessive sweating are seen and treated by the correct medical doctors, such as dermatologists or qualified aesthetic doctors.

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AESTHETIC MEDICINE

An aesthetic doctor normally treats these patients with Botulinum Toxin Type A injections, to block the nerves in the hands, feet and underarm pits that trigger the sweat glands.

THE TREATMENT of this disease can BE COMPLICATED if the CORRECT DIAGNOSIS is not made. It is thus VERY IMPORTANT that patients WITH EXCESSIVE SWEATING are seen and treated by the CORRECT MEDICAL DOCTORS, such as DERMATOLOGISTS or qualified aesthetic doctors.

Pre-treatment evaluation

This evaluation will be done by the medical doctor and involves the decision of either (1) a surgical treatment, or (2) a non-surgical treatment.

Injection techniques

Botulinum Toxin Type A is a safe, effective and durable method to treat patients with hyperhidrosis in the non -surgical category. It is not given to patients with an underlying disease.

The hair bearing area is used to define the injection area to inject the toxin (50 units used per axilla, about 8mm apart).

Palmar and plantar treatment

This procedure is also done without anaesthesia and can cause severe pain. A very effective, low risk and convenient way of treating this area prior to the injections is called cryo-analgesia. It entails placing ice-packs on the area for 15 minutes prior to injection to cool it. Topical 2,5% Lidocream can also be applied. The injection field is a grid on the palm and sole and 100 units of toxin is used per area.

Post treatment care

Photo by Ketut Subiyanto from Pexels

Complications of the disease

If the excessive sweating is not treated, it can lead to complications such as nail infections, warts and heat rash, as well as psychological impacts (i.e. losing jobs, conflicts and loss of self-confidence).

It is thus very important to inform people that excellent treatment for sweating severely is available.

The average time frame for hyperhidrosis patients to respond to the acceptance of their disease is about nine years! While it is not a life-threatening disease, it causes embarrassment and an uncomfortable lifestyle.

Muscle weakness is the most published adverse complication, but fortunately only for a short period (three days).

Patients are informed about this possible after-effect and encouraged to report any adverse event to their medical doctor.

Follow up consultations are recommended about two weeks after the treatment.

Patient satisfaction

The decrease in occupational, emotional as well as the difficult social situations are a significant claim that Botulinum Toxin Type A injections, done by qualified medical doctors, improve the patient’s quality of life.

Summary

Symptomatic hyperhidrosis in the axillary, palmar and plantar regions can be effectively treated with Botulinum Toxin Type A in a safe, relatively durable and effective way at a reasonable cost, and with no down time for the patient.

Treatment

Botulinum Toxin Type A is the best treatment for focal hyperhidrosis. The most useful area for this specific treatment is for the axillary (underarm) area.

Botulinum Toxin type A is also highly effective in treating the palmar and plantar (sole of the foot) areas. This treatment is normally highly effective for about nine months per year, with high satisfaction rate amongst patients.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Dr Ronel Du Toit M.B.Ch.B (Stellenbosch) has been an aesthetic practitioner since 2002 in the Northcliff and Illovo Johannesburg area. She is an accredited aesthetic doctor with unique credentials and attends on average between four to five congresses, workshops and talks per year to stay academically well informed about world trends and developments.

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PRODUCT NEWS

Overnight booster

Environ’s Focus Care Youth+® Seriénce™ Night Serum is the first of its kind advanced overnight booster developed to target the negative long-term effects of stress, so as to reveal serene, luminous and youthful-looking skin. It is formulated with an intelligent Malachite-Neuropeptide Complex scientifically proven to protect, reset, relax and reconnect the skin from within, cell by cell, night after night. Key ingredient efficacy has been individually scientifically proven through independent studies.

011 262 0264

In the market

Our round-up of new products and treatments Powerful probiotic

Evexia Pharma recently launched Probitec in South Africa, the first available in the country to utilise DuoCap capsules. This technology is designed to dissolve at different pH levels and therefore release the probiotic only once it has passed through the harmful environment of the stomach into the lower intestine.

083 480 7442

Clever technology

Youthful complexion

Greek medical skincare brand, Youth Lab has launched in South Africa. Founded in Athens in 2011 by Dr Konstantinos Kafkas, Youth Lab. focuses on the efficient functioning of skin metabolism and has established performance ingredients to increase the skin’s metabolism.

011 325 5849

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The Classic Eye Effect from optiphi has been reformulated with the addition of the Smart Skin Technology. A visible improvement in expression lines, wrinkles and hydration is delivered by the Ultra Filling Spheres™, while the Acetyl Hexapeptide-30 + Arginine focuses on superior synthesis of collagen and elastin to prevent and improve expression lines.

012 667 6244

online @ probeauty.co.za

NAIL FILE ISSUE 42

JUNE

FADE IN TO COLOUR PERFECTING OMBRE NAILS

THE WOW! FACTOR

ALLERGIC REACTION

SENSITIVITY CAUSED BY PRODUCTS AND UNDER-CURING

MAKE YOUR SALON EXPERIENCE UNFORGETTABLE professionalbeauty.co.uk

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WELCOME

NAIL FILE

s a nail professional, your primary objective, apart from obviously performing an excellent service, should be the health of your client’s natural nails. Therefore, it is vital to know what allergic reactions the chemicals in nail products could potentially cause. Furthermore, a client’s nails can also have an allergic reaction to the under-curing of product. We have included an in-depth, must-read article on this subject in this issue of NailFile.

Every salon owner dreams of creating an unforgettable experience for the client – something so memorable that the client wouldn’t even think of going elsewhere. We asked the owner of an award-winning salon to give her take on this all-important topic. Two of the things she focuses on are communication and post treatment support. She also makes the point that it’s the little things that make a real difference in how the client perceives the salon.

Ombre nail art seems to be a perennial favourite among clients. This is hardly surprising as it is such a pretty and soft look. We asked a top nail tech to provide the low-down on exactly how to achieve and perfect this style, one that requires lots of technique and practice.

ISSUE 42

JUNE

FADE IN TO COLOUR PERFECTING OMBRE NAILS

THE WOW! FACTOR

ALLEGIC REACTION

SENSITIVITY CAUSED BY PRODUCTS AND UNDER-CURING

MAKE YOUR SALON EXPERIENCE

UNFORGETTABLE

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

What’s INSIDE 45

Industry News Stay in the know

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Ask the Experts

How to create an unforgettable salon experience

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Product Hub Latest releases

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Techniques

The ombre effect

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Nail Health

Allergies to products

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Top Tech Talk Marlize Coetzee

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online @ probeauty.co.za

NAIL NEWS

Photos by Henry Sep

Award-winning nail artist creates bags with tips South African-born international nail artist, educator and winner of Nails Magazine’s Next Top Nail Artist Season 4, Tracey Lee, used the extended lockdown period in Netherlands, where she is based, to create a set of unique handbags fashioned with nail tips.

Says Lee: “I believe it is Marian Newman who described nails as ‘the ultimate fashion accessory’. Well, during lockdown, I decided to take ‘accessorising’ to the next level.

Out came the sewing machine and out came the nail tips

Addison Rae’s nails

(image from Instagram @thuybnguyen)

Hot nail looks at the MTV Movie Awards Celebrity nail stylist, Thuy Nguyen, was responsible for the nail designs of three stars on the red carpet at the recent MTV Movie Awards in Hollywood.

Nguyen created a simple yet striking look for social media star, Addison Rae. Plain, jet black nails were each embellished with a silver chain that lined the cuticle. Said Nguyen: “Addison’s nails for the night needed to be something versatile because she would be wearing two dresses and didn’t have her full glam team with her due to COVID. So I needed a look that would hit both dresses right. After conversations between hair, make-up and styling, I decided to do something to the beat of ‘glam+edgy’.”

For Lara Condor’s nails, Nguyen created a dazzling, sparkly look that perfectly matched her black, sequinembellished dress, while for Elizabeth Olsen, also wearing black, Nguyen did a shimmery sheer pink look.

online @ probeauty.co.za

– this time for a completely different reason. I created a set of bespoke bags from scratch, using feather leather for a durable finish and a rich satin lining on the inside.

“The bags also have an amazing ASMR (autonomous sensory meridian response) or brain massage function, as you can rub your hands over the tips, rearrange them while you wait for an appointment, or simply enjoy the relaxing sound as you tap your gorgeous nail enhancements over them.”

BUSINESS TIPS

How can I make the salon experience unforgettable for the client?

Photo by Rodnae Productions from Pexels

ith competition in the nail industry fiercer than ever, you need to go the extra mile in ensuring that the client has the very best time in your salon and that she is completely happy with the service you have provided.

You need to find a way in which to make your salon stand out and, by doing so, grab the attention of potential new clients.

Whenever I present training, one of the tips that I always give technicians is that a client should never wonder what it would be like to visit another salon, or have the desire to go to another technician. So, ask yourself – how am I different to every other nail technician in the market?

Here are just a few of the very many ways in which you can make your client’s experience with you unforgettable, ticking all the blocks of expectations.

Communication and post treatment support

First things first! Did the client enjoy her appointment with you? Did you ensure that you explained each step of the service and the after care? Often technicians concentrate so hard on the actual treatment that they don’t consider what happens when the client leaves the salon. Have you taught your client the appropriate home care to ensure that the benefits of the treatment last longer?

Forget about the drama

We are all busy. Time is precious. A client wants to enjoy the time being pampered. The last thing she should be worrying about is gossip or any negative topics in the salon.

It’s the little things that matter

Although we would like to make sure the client feels spoiled to the max at each and every appointment, acknowledge special occasions in her life such as getting married, her birthday, child’s birthday etc. Make her feel completely cared for, pampered and spoiled at specific appointments such as these. A welcome board with a special note, a glass of champagne, a card with a special note, or snacks are just a few small gestures. A small chocolate waiting for her on the nail table on her birthday can go a long way.

Meet the client’s expectations to the best of your ability

Always talk your client through the process. Explain to her the benefits of the treatment. In order for you to do this and be on top of your game, you need to stay updated. When last did you attend a refresher course or even an online workshop? Doing so will allow you to offer the latest trends and techniques. The more training you attend, the better the nail tech you will be, and your social media posts will remain on point.

Listen

When a client comes to you for the first time she has more than likely been to another nail tech/ salon before.

Why did she leave that salon? What was she unhappy about? Listen to what she has to say and make mental notes. This a basic guideline on how you can improve your customer service.

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Tania Biddle is the owner of Plush Nails & Beauty in Roodepoort and the head of education for Bio Sculpture.

Email education@biosculpture.com

online @ probeauty.co.za

IN THE MARKET

Product Hub

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails

On trend shades

Speedy enhancements

Made with a unique, soft jelly-material that gives ultimate flexibility and durability, the Gelish Soft Gel Tips are lighter than air and designed to cover from the cuticle to free edge. The tips move with the contour of the natural nail for a perfect fitting, with a stronger and more break-resistant design.

Available in seven ready-to-wear styles and 11 sizes, tips are adhered to the nail using an LED curable Gel Tip Adhesive.

011 447 0659

Wintery colours

Bellucy, the South African professional gel polish brand created by Dalize Havenga, has introduced its winter collection, Urban Gypsy. The six evocative shades are: Rosella, Wanderlust, Behemia, Esmerelda, Freedom and Gypsy Soul.

011 791 4027

online @ probeauty.co.za

LCN’s latest trend, Elements, takes us back to the roots of our being, to the simple but elementary things that make our life worth living. This collection of six new colours is a declaration of love to our living space, to our world and all it offers to us. Nail polishes are 100% vegan and animal friendly, with the colours also available in soft gel and hard gel systems.

010 593 3293

TECHNIQUES

The ombre effect A French word meaning colour that is shaded or graduated in tone, ombre is one of the most popular styles of nail art to be requested by clients. We asked nail tech and business owner, Riana Botha, to give the low down on how to create this look

Another name for ombre is faded French, and a few years ago in the nail industry, many nail techs all over the world were baffled at how this look could be achieved so seamlessly. Soon after that, nail techs started fading and blending different colours into one another and the designs that were posted online created quite a frenzy.

However, if you are new to ombre, then a lot of practice is involved to master this style, as is product control when using the various tools that are required.

There are also many examples of ombre designs, the most popular being the ombre French.

Red and black ombre nail designs are also a favourite. Then there are the clients who love ‘artsy’ nails and like to ombre three colours from the darkest hue to the lightest.

The above-mentioned styles are great as a base for a design to do stamping or free hand art on, and can bring any design on the nail to life.

But before one starts with an ombre (or a nail design using this technique), you need to understand the fundamentals.

When ombre became popular, colour wheels were taken out of storage and the fun began.

What exactly is it?

Ombre is the blending of one colour seamlessly into the next, or without any lines visible.

Normally, you go from darker hues to lighter, or from one colour to the next. Here we can go back to our kindergarten years and remember what colours can be mixed together to create a third colour, and work out which colours do not work together. All these rules apply when doing an ombre design.

For example, a pink and yellow ombre gives the illusion that you used three colours instead of two.

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online @ probeauty.co.za

TECHNIQUES

Step by step Before starting with your steps to create the perfect ombre French, make sure your cuticle work has been done, as well as your base and upper arch correction.

Start with one layer of French pink or nude as your base and cure.

Put down your first layer of nude/ French pink halfway onto the nail and on the other half of the nail, put your bright white.

Once you are happy that the ombre is seamless, you can top coat.

Do your second layer of French pink/ nude and cure.

Use your ombre brush and mix your French pink/ nude with your bright white until a third colour appears in the middle. Start from the cuticle and blend your French pink/ nude and white until the blend is seamless.

Cure.

Riana Botha is an experienced nail artist and the owner of The Make Up Monsters.

Email rianabotha1984@gmail.com Wipe your sticky layer.

online @ probeauty.co.za

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NAIL HEALTH

Allergic and adverse reactions caused by nail products Following on from the very well received misinformation article in the April issue of NailFile, Sonette van Rensburg has been providing readers with more in depth information on the various different issues raised. This time she focuses on allergic and adverse reactions, a topic just as important as all the others

s nail techs, we work with nail products on a daily basis and are constantly being exposed to various different chemical ingredients, dust and vapours, which contain allergens and irritants that could potentially cause allergies and adverse reactions, as well as more serious health conditions. But for some reason, many of the issues around this topic are at times not taken all that seriously and are just being ignored, or incorrect advice is given, which is definitely a major cause for concern.

Are your clients leaving your salon with beautiful nails but a few hours later calling you to say they think they have an allergy to your products? One thing you need to know is that allergies don’t just occur overnight, so

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Photos supplied by Gorge Nails NL

online @ probeauty.co.za

NAIL HEALTH

you will need to establish whether it is just an irritation to something, or an actual allergy to an ingredient.

It’s not just clients who are experiencing these issues; I see many nail techs posting on social media saying that they have suddenly developed an allergy to the products they work with and they don’t know what to do about it. The scary thing is that most of the time the product or brand is blamed, with nail techs thinking the solution is to just change brands or systems, but this is not a long-term solution at all. Most importantly, you need to be able to identify the issue and establish what the actual cause is, as it could be a number of reasons, ranging from misuse of products, mixing brands, or even just a sensitivity to certain ingredients. If you don’t identify the cause, you could end up developing occupationinduced allergic dermatitis, which could be a problem for life and possibly the end of your career as a nail tech.

ALLERGIES don’t just OCCUR OVERNIGHT, so you will need to ESTABLISH WHETHER it is just an IRRITATION TO SOMETHING, or an actual allergy TO AN INGREDIENT. This is why a sound knowledge about everything to do with our industry is vitally important, along with an understanding of how to use and work with all nail products safely. When things go wrong, it’s usually due to a lack of not knowing the correct information or following misinformation, leading to all sorts of problems. Fortunately, this can all be avoided and you can prevent these types of issues affecting you and your clients by understanding how and why these reactions occur.

Many don’t even know the difference between an irritation and an allergic reaction, or why they occur. There are many different things that can cause these reactions and various ways in which they can affect one. That’s why it is so important to be vigilant about being able to recognise the symptoms and to identify them when they do occur. Respond promptly with the correct advice and a solution to eliminate the cause.

Photo by Rodnae Productions from Pexels

overexposure, or constant exposure over time. It can happen to anyone should an irritant come into direct contact with the skin. Irritations also appear quite quickly, within minutes or a few hours of a treatment, presenting itself as itching or burning in the exposed area. An irritation also calms down quickly when the area is cleaned and free from what is causing the irritation.

Allergies

An allergy doesn’t just happen or occur after the first time a person is exposed; it only happens with recurrent overexposure to a specific ingredient, or allergen, and develops over time and in phases known as sensitisation.

The skin recognises this allergen as a foreign substance and then becomes abnormally sensitive, compromising the skin’s natural defence and allowing these allergens to be carried through your body. This causes the immune system to respond and release chemicals that cause symptoms like redness, swelling, a rash, bumps, blisters or dry scaly sores, which are related with skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis or eczema. These symptoms can range from mild to more serious, affecting not only the skin but also the nail bed, resulting in onycholysis (separation of the nail plate and nail bed).

Liquid & powder

The liquid & powder system often seems to be a big culprit for allergies, due to the allergens found in the monomer liquid. However, this does not mean that everyone will be prone to allergies from it. As an educator, I have come across nail techs who have adopted some really questionable habits when using not only monomer, but most of their nail products. In fact, it’s the misuse of products that leads to most of the issues so no wonder there are more and more people experiencing adverse reactions and allergies to nail products.

It’s not only monomers that can cause allergies but also nail polishes, gel polishes, gel enhancement coatings and even preparation products like cuticle remover, primers and bonding agents. My rule with these products is to ‘use them sparingly like a poor man’. Less is definitely more when it comes to these products, don’t flood the cuticles or paint them all over the skin.

Irritations

An irritation is exactly that – something which irritates the skin after short but considerable

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NAIL HEALTH

Acetone

Acetone is another substance that often gets blamed for causing allergies. However, it’s not the acetone that is to blame as nobody really becomes allergic to it, but rather the type of acetone. Use only acetone that is meant for cosmetic purposes, as other types could contain contaminants, which could irritate the skin.

The other major problem is when uncured product is removed and released by acetone, it could then cause skin reactions.

If a client reacts to acetone, this is usually a sure sign that the product is not cured properly. That’s why making sure you follow the correct mix ratio when working with a liquid & powder system, and also using the correct UV or LED lamp with the gel system and brand it’s made to work with, is crucial to making sure you achieve a full and proper cure.

how much dust they can create when doing nail enhancements, whether you are fling with a normal file or an electric file, which is absolutely not necessary. Minimise filing by making sure you apply your products properly and correctly, create beautiful, well constructed nail enhancements that require minimal filing. Not only will you need to file less, but you will also save a lot of time.

Remember – sculpt with your brush, not the file!

Even if you work carefully and safely with your products to prevent exposure, it is still advisable to wear safety and protective equipment like; masks to prevent breathing in dust and fumes, any mask is better than no mask, but an N95 mask provides the best protection. Gloves will also help protect your hands from exposure to chemicals, nitrile gloves are best as some people are allergic to latex. Also ensure you have proper ventilation and extraction to remove dust and fumes. Dust not only causes skin reactions but can lead to other serious health risks and conditions, and is often also the major cause for service breakdown, especially when it gets into your other products and contaminates them. Besides which, dust looks unsightly, unhygienic and unprofessional.

Mixing brands and systems

Mixing products from different brands and systems is also another major cause of allergies. I will discuss product chemistry in depth in our next issue of NailFile and why mixing brands is such a significant problem for our industry.

Safety tips

Image by Gundula Vogel from Pixabay

A SOUND KNOWLEDGE about EVERYTHING TO DO with our industry is vitally IMPORTANT, along with an UNDERSTANDING OF how to use and work with all NAIL PRODUCTS SAFELY. Dust

More serious adverse reactions and even other major health issues can occur from breathing in the fumes and dust released by them, particularly dust which contains uncured product. Not only can dust contain uncured product, but also other product particles, skin, bacteria and even fungal spores.

Dust is one of the most silent types of irritants you can get. Marian Newman from Nail Knowledge calls dust ‘the invisible assassin’. Many nail techs don’t realise just

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Get educated on how to use nail products properly and safely.

Minimise exposure to products, chemicals and dust.

Follow manufacturers’ instructions and protocols.

Don’t mix product brands and systems.

Follow good hygiene & safety protocols.

Follow good housekeeping practices.

Make sure you have appropriate ventilation and extraction in your work area.

Don’t just dismiss an allergy or reaction because you think it will never happen to you or a client; be aware and watch out for the signs and symptoms and do something to nip it in the bud immediately. It is your responsibility to protect yourself and your clients from potential harm and to assist with creating a safe and sustainable industry.

People with low immune systems seem to be more predisposed to allergies, which have become more common since COVID-19. The use of sanitisers and soaps also appear to be adding to these issues.

For further information on this, go to www.nailknowledge. org. I would also just like to say congratulations to the Nail Knowledge team for recently being endorsed by HABIA (Hairdressing and Beauty Industry Authority).

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands.

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An antifungal kills a fungus, if there is a fungus. This is only part of the re-growing process.

An antiseptic stops the growth of micro-organisms.

The conditions under a detached or ‘loose’ nail are usually warm and damp, ideal for a nail fungal infection and often the forerunner of it.

Not all loose or damaged nails are fungal infected and therefore treatment with a short term antifungal, alone, serves little purpose!

These conditions can only be restored by regrowth of the nails. This can take from two months to two years, depending on the size of the nail, the degree of damage and the tempo at which the person’s nails grow.

There is no ‘Quick Fix’. If not treated correctly the cavity under the loose or damaged nail can easily become re-infected. It is therefore essential to secure and maintain antiseptic conditions for as long as it takes for the nail/s to re-grow.

Such long term antiseptic treatment cannot be done with a short term antifungal; what is required is a fungal antiseptic that can be used continuously until the nail has fully regrown.

The nail bed’s condition is another important factor to consider.

Professor Richard K. Scher (Clinical Professor of Dermatology) wrote in Nails Magazine: (1 December 1997): “In a loose nail, the nail bed may begin to form a granular layer of abnormal cells on its surface. After six months of detachment, this layer is likely to prevent the adhesion of any new nail tissue, possibly leading to permanent deformity.”

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Q&A

Top Tech Talk

NailFile speaks to Marlize Coetzee about opening a homebased salon during lockdown last year and surviving

What made you want to open a home-based salon? hen did you open Foxy Nails?

I launched Foxy Nails in March 2020 in Centurion, just after I completed my novice training with Nelé. Obviously the industry was closed during hard lockdown, which gave me a chance to practice on nail sticks and do all the other courses Nelé offered when training centres reopened.

People often ask me about the salon’s name, Foxy Nails. Well, I wanted something that would sound and look different, that would catch people’s attention.

When I STARTED MY BUSINESS last year DURING LOCKDOWN, it was just a better option to WORK FROM HOME and not carry any other expenses like RENTING A CHAIR or shop space.

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When I started my business last year during lockdown, it was just a better option to work from home and not carry any other expenses like renting a chair or shop space. I used that money to build up stock and to invest in good quality tools.

What were some of the challenges you faced in opening the salon?

Sticking to business hours. It just seemed so easy to squeeze in another client because I was working from home. At first I didn’t know how to get clients to make a booking. But after a few advertisements and referrals, business picked up amazingly well.

Other challenges were that I had no idea what a nail salon could earn each month, what the expenses would be and how many clients a day I could book. Naturally I was beset with worries, uncertainty and doubt as to whether I was making the right choice in starting the business. During this time I had amazing support from my partner and friends, who kept telling me not to give up and to trust that the time would come when things would pick up. I found that hard work does actually pay off.

How long did it take for your business to gain traction?

Some people thought I was crazy to start a nail business during lockdown and admittedly I even thought at one

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Q&A

stage that the salon was not going to succeed. Especially taking into consideration that the beauty industry was closed for several months. Once the beauty sector re-opened, it took about two months for things to really boom. I am truly blessed beyond words for the clients that have stepped into my studio.

All of my clients were obviously new and I did get the feeling that some people were afraid to enter a salon environment and preferred mobile services, which I offered for a while. After the December 2020 holidays, I had a few cancellations because people became ill with COVID-19, or didn’t want to take a chance during the second wave.

There was definitely a drop in bookings after that but it recovered in about three weeks.

Proper and ADVANCED TRAINING is a must and I FEEL THAT IN SOUTH AFRICA it should BE MANDATORY to have a licence to WORK IN THE NAIL INDUSTRY.

How have you found business this year?

It is going well and bookings are coming in.

February was a quiet month but in March, business picked up again.

What nail services do you offer?

Because I specialise exclusively in Nelé, I only offer the following services: Sculpting Gel Overlay on natural nails, on tips and sculptures; Rubberbase overlays; and quick pedicures where I only paint toenails. Nail art is hand painted and there is quite a variety available, like watercolours, marble effects, dainty flowers and leaves etc.

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Which services would you say are the most popular with your clients?

The Sculpting Gel Overlay is the most popular because it is strong and durable. Some of the clients that I see on a regular basis were looking specifically for Nelé. Nail art is quite big at Foxy Nails as well; most of the sets I do have some sort of hand painted art on them.

Do you work alone at the salon or do you employ any staff?

At the moment I work alone. I would like to expand and hopefully have an excellent nail tech join me.

What advice would you give to someone wanting to open a home-based nail salon?

I would definitely suggest a nice, semi-private working space in your home. Make it comfortable, warm and welcoming. Decide on your working hours and stick to them, otherwise people will take advantage of you. Look and be professional and neat at all times, as working from home is not an excuse to be in your slippers. Don’t take it personally if a home salon is not for some clients as there will always be those who prefer one of the nail salon chains.

Quality of service and excellent work will have clients coming back for more.

For how long have you been in the industry?

I have been in the nail industry for little over a year. Prior to nails I came from an administrative background, having worked in the corporate environment for almost 13 years.

When did the nail bug first bite you and what inspired your interest?

I love colour and art. When I was looking for a career change, a friend suggested starting a nail business. She thought that my skills in art will make me extremely good at doing nails. I can only say that never in my wildest dreams did I ever think that I would enjoy doing nails as much as I do. To create something beautiful is what I love to do.

My future goals are to perfect my skills through nail

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Q&A

courses and perhaps enter a few competitions. I am working towards becoming an educator. Looking ahead, I would like to expand the studio by hiring a few extra nail technicians, as well as add a few more services like lashes and brows.

What are some of the biggest challenges facing the industry?

It seems like everyone can do nails these days by means of watching YouTube videos instead of attending a professional nail training centre. Proper and advanced training is a must and I feel that in South Africa it should be mandatory to have a licence to work in the nail industry. I have seen and heard horror stories of damaged nails and clients contracting nail fungi and diseases because of a lack of proper education on the part of the nail tech. Some clients are scared of the electric file because nail techs who were not trained to remove products with an electric file hurt them badly.

THE JOY and AMAZEMENT a CLIENT SHOWS when she sees the finished work GIVES ME ABSOLUTE PLEASURE. How you feel about nail art?

I love to create something unique and beautiful. The joy and amazement a client shows when she sees the finished work gives me absolute pleasure. Art will always be in my blood and to finally do something artistic every day is so satisfying. The artist’s canvas turned into a nail bed full of possibilities.

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Do most of your clients request nail art?

Eighty-percent of my clients always do some sort of nail art.

This ranges from intricate designs that push me further and to better myself, to just a dot and a line. Some clients like a plain, full colour nail and that is just as beautiful. Certain clients come just for the art, the nail enhancement is a bonus.

What kind of nail art do you most enjoy doing?

That is a difficult question to be honest, but if I were to go down a list I would say watercolour art, as not one nail will come out the same, every set will be unique in its own way.

It’s soft and femine, just so beautiful to have. I’ve done a few flowers on nails with normal nail polish and liners and they are always a winner. Abstract lines and shapes also grab my attention.

Do you follow any overseas nail artists?

Of course I do, and a few nail artists in South Africa as well. I follow quite a few Russian artists on Instagram and love the videos of Naio Nails UK.

What would you say are some of this year’s most on trend nail art looks?

Just looking at what my clients are requesting, it’s between dark and warm winter colours, soft pinks and nudes. I think the French Ombre will be popular for quite some time, as well as a traditional French in soft pastel colours instead of white. Abstract looking leaves and lines seem to be big at the moment, as is combining a dark colour with a nude colour. Painting flowers on a nude colour to make them pop is popular at the moment.

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