www.probeauty.co.za
Creative urge Designing your dream spa
Growth factors
Showing off ! Professional Beauty Durban
Anti-ageing actives
All a-flutter Lash extensions
Chilled out
12
In this issue... Regulars
Business
5 Industry news
24 Business of Beauty Blog
Local and international news
35 Treatment review
26 How to get ahead in the beauty industry
The ‘Xtreme’ of lash-dom
36 Treatment review
An abundance of lashes
39 Treatment review
All ‘lash-ed’ out
58 Product news
All the latest launches
61 Hair news
What’s hot and happening in the hair industry
Tips to connect with your target market
Spa Focus 12 Hat trick for One&Only
Cape Town spa triumphs
World Spa & Wellness Awards
14 Beauty Bootcamp sets sail
Business conference on the waves
17 The designer touch
54
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Nails 46 Tip to toe grooming perfection
Natural nail care
14 Simply the best
60 SAAHSP The latest news from SAAHSP
29
The key to service excellence
Nuts and bolts of spa design
Features 29 Peeling back the layers
Chemical peeling
41 When the well runs dry
Combatting winter skin
Medical Aesthetics
52 A helping hand
54 On the ‘growth’ path
22 Durban’s big beauty bonanza
Growth factors in the spotlight
Treating your hands
Professional Beauty Durban
52 Professional Beauty May 2014
Welcome
T
his May magazine is our Professional Beauty Durban Show issue and includes a guide to many of the new and innovative products and technologies that will be highlighted at this premier industry event for the region. As suppliers get to ‘show off’, local salon and spa owners are strongly urged to visit the show, which runs from 18 to 19 May at the ICC, in order to stay ahead of their game in terms of the latest industry trends. And don’t forget about the Professional Beauty Network Breakfast on 19 May and the free Pro Beauty Seminars (18 and 19 May), which feature expert speakers presenting on current hot topics in the industry. In an exciting first for the magazine, we feature eyelash extensions in our Treatment Review section. Three Professional Beauty staffers each underwent a different lash enhancement treatment, with dazzling results all around. It’s tough not to find this time of year a bit of a downer – what with summer merely a fond memory and streets and gardens increasingly populated with dead leaves. Yes, the Big Freeze approaches and with it, the seriously dry air that can have catastrophic consequences on the moisture content of our skin. On the up side, there are many highly effective skincare treatments to help us combat the dreaded winter skin, as you’ll find in our special feature on the topic. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
May 2014
www.probeauty.co.za
Creative urge Designing your dream spa
Growth factors
Showing OFF ! Professional Beauty Durban
Subscribe 9 issues for R450 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970
Anti-ageing actives
All a-flutter Lash extensions
Chilled out
On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com
Winter skin solutions
Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/ or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com and www.dreamstime.com
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Printers House of Print
Professional Beauty May 2014
011 747 8750
online at www.probeauty.co.za
The success of this amazing body wrap is due to a combination of a Swiss formulation anti-cellulite body contouring firming gel and Neoprene bandages. The compression of the bandages and the active ingredients, strengthening, diuretic and stabilising properties of the gel targets the toxins in the adipose fatty tissue, breaks down the fatty tissue by means of absorption by the lymph duct, so that the unwanted fatty tissue finally passes out through the body. The combination of liposomes, strengthening and diuretic properties stabilise and maintain the contour of the body, helping to avoid a spongy appearance, strengthens the tissues and inner organs. LOSE For Men and Women • Home Care Kit available VOTED 2006 – 2010 BODY WRAP OF THE YEAR
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This bra offers everyday chic styling and an exceptional fit that hugs the breasts and accentuates the cleavage without adding any extra volume. Innovative 3 Dimensional breathable knit fabric creates a moulded bra that feels like a second skin and embodies a woman’s natural curves for absolute comfort. No seams or stitching in the nipple area. Available in chocolate, white, black and nude (fits up to a F cup). For more information contact: Patricia Clarke Johannesburg, South Africa • Symphony Health cc • Tel: +27 11 793 2321 • Tel: +27 11 792 2641 • Fax: +27 11 792 7461 • patricianewsum@yahoo.com • www.patricia-clarke.com • PO Box 1158, Fontainebleau, 2032
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industry news
5
News
All the news and views from the world of beauty, spa and nails.
Multifunctional products on the rise
B
eauty products that fuse technology, skincare, hair care and cosmetics so as to fulfil more than a single function will be a leading trend across all beauty and personal care categories during 2014. This is the finding of a recent study conducted by global market research company Mintel. The study reveals that while manufacturers have worked with multifunctionality
for a number of years, such as on products that combine skincare and make-up properties for example, they are now taking inspiration from completely different categories to create new products. Time efficiency is a key factor in the popularity in multifunctional products, as is cost reduction. Mintel predicts that in the future the industry will see targeted
skincare delivery systems, as well as further work on hybrids that bring together skincare, devices and diagnostics.
LTI awards winners
News in pictures
Francisco Garcia, Dr Kateryna Tsvietkova, Derek Terry, Jenny Kusel and Evelyn Urban at the Arabella Spa. Lilian Terry International (LTI) has announced its Top Therapist and Top Spa for 2013 – Jenny Kusel and the Spa at Zebula. This is Kusel’s second win in a row; she is from the Arabella Spa in the Western Cape. Runners-up were Tanuja Haripersad in second spot and Estelle Combrinck in third. Both Haripersad and Combrinck work at The Spa at Zebula.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Says LTI general manager Carli Argirova: “The Spa at Zebula, which is situated at the beautiful Zebula Golf Estate in the Limpopo province, clinched the award with its exceptional retail sales. Spa manageress Larika Niemand and her staff deserve this achievement for their hard work and dedication.”
The first ever Johannesburg meeting of the Professional Beauty Network took place on 17 March at Hugo’s Place in Kyalami. Guest speakers were Dr Robert Gobac of Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals and Dermalogica’s Communications Manager, Sonette Donker. See page 26.
Professional Beauty May 2014
industry news
6 News in brief ■ DMK footprint grows: The DMK Medi Pedi treatments are now available in 95 Sorbet Salons around South Africa.
■ Camelot triumphs: The Camelot Spa Group has won the Best Luxury Spa Group in Africa award at the 2014 World Luxury Spa Awards. ■ FlexyCups in demand: Two Soulstice Day Spas (Pretoria & Johannesburg), as well as Octavia’s Day Spa at the Peermont D’oreale Grande Hotel (Emperor’s Palace), have taken on LT FlexyCups, as well as LTI’s Homeopathic Aromatherapy complexes. ■ Honour for QMS: The QMS Medicosmetics Ion Skin Equalizer Treatment has won the Gala Spa Award in Baden-Baden, Germany. ■ Africology Concept Store: Spa and beauty therapy group Africology has opened a Concept Store on 4th Avenue, Parkhurst, Johannesburg, offering unique DelicatEssence bespoke beauty blending.
A ‘Radiant’ 10th anniversary
T
his year Radiant Healthcare, the distributor of products from Syneron, Cocoon, GSD and Ecleris, celebrates a decade of existence. Part of Radiant Healthcare’s longer-term strategy to be the best supplier of cosmetic and aesthetic equipment on the African continent was to move into new premises in October 2013. These include a workshop and stores, as well as training and demonstration facilities. Says Radiant Healthcare’s Jacques
Pretorius: “We will be taking on more staff during this year and adding exciting new products to our inventory. “Radiant Healthcare would like to thank all its loyal and valued clients and suppliers for their continued support. A special thank you to Professional Beauty for its contribution in helping to grow this exciting industry in our beautiful country,” concludes Pretorius. Special promotions on certain Radiant Healthcare product lines will be run during May.
■ Glosscar for Babor: The Doctor Babor Body Cellular Ultimate 3D Cellulite Lotion has won a Glosscar Award 2014 for Best New Body Treatment.
Tribute to John David Edwards
■ Environ’s new factory: Environ has opened its new manufacturing facility in Cape Town and is targeting MCC accreditation.
John David Edwards (17 April 1950 – 4 March 2014) contributed almost 30 years to the health and beauty industry. John’s wealth of knowledge stemmed from his experience in companies such as Yardley and Johnson & Johnson, as well as a company that distributed raw materials, food and cosmetic ingredients. His ability to put ingredients together made him a great cosmetic chemist. More than 20 years ago, Dr Des Fernandez and John started Environ. John was valued by dermatologists and people practising various therapies, as well as companies requiring formulations of pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. He founded Southern
■ optiphi wins award: The Classic range from optiphi has been awarded a Marie Claire 2014 Prix d’Excellence de la Beauté Award in the local category for its efficiency in skin rejuvenation through cellular optimisation.
Professional Beauty May 2014
Cosmetics, a manufacturing facility, 19 years ago and shortly thereafter the successful professional skincare range, SalonCare. He was loved dearly and will be sorely missed by the industry.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
industry news
8
Pregnancy brand spawns ‘skin fitness’
Melanie Frost, Meghan Less, Janine Janse van Rensburg and Angelique van der Linde
T
he creators of Mama Mio, the first premium body-care range for pregnancy, have launched Mio, a high-intensity bodycare range inspired by the concept of ‘fit skin’. In addition, the Mama Mio range has enjoyed a revamp, with the introduction of a new and improved pregnancy line. According to Janine Janse van Rensburg of Mama Mio/ Mio distributor Poise Brands, Mio products are packed with facialquality active ingredients.
“Mio is designed to go beyond skin-deep to provide straightforward skin fitness, nutrition and exercise advice to help increase product efficacy. Mio’s ‘No Nasties’ policy means that our formulas are free from parabens, petrolatum, synthetic fragrances and colorants, xenoestrogens, PEGs, phthalates and SLS,” she says. Angelique van der Linde, known in South African fitness circles as ‘the Angel of Fitness’, has been appointed as the Mio brand ambassador.
Negative effects of discounting
The percentage of women who say they will only buy beauty products when there’s a discount has increased from around a fifth in 2013 to over a quarter in 2014, according to this year’s Premium Market Report. The report, created by analyst Imogen Matthews Associates in association with YouTube, showed that those brands that resisted discounting are now in a much stronger position than those that didn’t. Significantly, the percentage of women who prefer purchasing beauty products in-store or in a salon rather than online has increased from 35% to 39%. Since 2013, the percentage of women who believe cheaper brands are just as effective as their more expensive counterparts has increased from 37% to 44%.
Bio Sculpture educators convene in UK
Britain, run under Rene Lipsitz. “It was wonderful to see such passion for the product and loyalty to the brand,” says Lipsitz, who organised the Educator’s Day together with her son Richard. “Among the participants were Andrew and Bradley Bergmann of Bio Sculpture Australia.” Bio Scultpture was created by
Elmien Scholtz in 1988. Following extensive research and development from her salon in Port Elizabeth, Bio Sculpture Clear Gel was launched as the world’s first soak-off gel. The brand now boasts over 150 gel shades alongside a spa range, nail art products and retail nail treatments, which are available in over 40 countries.
Professional Beauty May 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Over 30 Bio Sculpture Gel distributors and educators, led by company founder Elmien Scholtz and her son Eddie, travelled to the UK head office in Hertfordshire recently to learn the latest methods and techniques for gel application and sculpting for nailbiters. The event also marked the 15th anniversary of Bio Sculpture Great
spa news
12
Hat trick for One&Only For the third year running, One&Only Cape Town Spa was judged Hotel Spa of the Year – Africa at the recent World Spa & Wellness Awards in London.
T
o mark this hat trick at the World Spa & Wellness Awards, Professional Beauty asked Kim Milton, manager – Spa & Fitness, One&Only Cape Town, about the secret to the spa’s awards success. PB: How does it feel to have won three World Spa & Wellness Awards in a row? KM: Emotionally my team feels proud, happy, excited and enthusiastic. Awards boost business all-round, but, most importantly, they increase team spirit and morale and give a deep sense of pride in the work space. I find that awards bond team members too, in the knowledge that collectively each team member’s efforts create a winning guest experience. PB: What is the significance of these awards in the global industry? KM: The World Spa & Wellness Awards give recognition to the luxury spa industry and set benchmarks in quality, innovation and service for spas around the globe. PB: Why do you think your spa continually resonates with judges? KM: Firstly, I believe that any successful business is based on excellent staff. One&Only Spa consistently and continually conducts training on every level for all spa staff, which allows us to deliver a 5-star service.
Caroline Tjia (Kerzner Sales Office – UK) accepts the award on behalf of One&Only Cape Town Spa from David Zarb Jenkins of Spatec Europe, the award sponsor.
SPA AT A GLANCE 2 luxury couples suites with Jacuzzis & steam showers 5 face & body treatment rooms with private showers & restroom 3 private Pedi:Mani: Cure treatment rooms Hair salon with styling & colour stations Thermal suites (aromasteam room, sauna, vitality pool, ice fountain) Yoga & Thai Massage Pavilion
In addition we house two exceptional brands – the ESPA luxury face and body treatment experience and product range, and the Bastien Gonzalez Studio with luxury Pedi:Mani:Cure experience and Reverence de Bastien product range. These two exclusive brands have allowed One&Only Spa to wow the judges time and time again. Pb: you have the advantage of being located in a beautiful setting. Please comment. KM: The awards judging criteria are purely based upon service excellence; location is not taken into account. That being said, our spa is an oasis of serenity nestled on a private, lush island at the heart of the One&Only Cape Town resort.
Professional Beauty May 2014
PB: What is your signature treatment? KM: Our Essence of Earth and Ocean signature ritual (120 minutes) has been designed exclusively by ESPA for One&Only Cape Town Spa. It is advanced, truly indulgent and influenced by customs from around the world. Our treatment ritual is personalised to meet our clients’ needs, using ESPA products to deliver outstanding and long-lasting results.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
www.cal-mo.com 011 624 1101
spa news
14
Simply the best The winners of the World Spa & Wellness Awards 2014 were announced recently at a glittering black-tie dinner held at the spectacular Guildhall, located in the heart of London. The 11 worthy winners of the World Spa & Wellness Awards 2014 are: Hotel Spa of the Year – Asia & Australasia Sponsored by Professional Spa & Wellness magazine Winner: The Spa at Mandarin Oriental Singapore
Hotel Spa of the Year – North & South America Sponsored by Elly Lukas Beauty Therapy College Winner: The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Las Vegas, USA
Destination Spa of the Year – Asia & Australasia Sponsored by Thalgo Winner: Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary and Holistic Spa Resort, Thailand
Destination Spa of the Year – North & South America Sponsored by Elemis Winner: Lapinha Spa, Brazil
Hotel Spa of the Year – Eastern Europe Winner: Mandara Spa at Lotte Hotel Moscow, Russia
Hotel Spa of the Year – Western Europe & Scandinavia Sponsor: Carita Paris Winner: Espa at The Europe Hotel & Resort, Ireland
Destination Spa of the Year – Eastern Europe Winner: Spa Vilnius, Druskininkai, Lithuania
Destination Spa of the Year – Western Europe & Scandinavia Winner: Clinique La Prairie, Switzerland
Hotel Spa of the Year – Middle East Sponsored by Gharieni Winner: ShuiQi Spa & Fitness, Atlantis The Palm, Dubai, UAE
Destination Spa of the Year – Middle East & Africa Sponsored by Elemis Winner: Banyan Tree Spa Al Wadi, Ras Al Khaimah, UAE
The call for entries for the 2015 World Spa & Wellness Awards will go out in June. Log onto http://www. professionalspawellness.com for more information.
❇
Hotel Spa of the Year – Africa Sponsored by Spatec Europe Winner: One&Only Spa Cape Town, South Africa
Beauty Bootcamp sets sail The 2nd Beauty Bootcamp, hosted by The Spa Consultants, took place in early March on the cruise liner MSC Opera, which sailed to Maputo and Portuguese Island. Says Marisa Dimitriadis, MD of The Spa Consultants: “We had 42 delegates join us on the Beauty Bootcamp. This business-building conference was the perfect mix of learning and fun. “Speakers at the conference included Mariza Nuttall, business owner from Australia; Co van Doorn, life coach and leading KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) hairstylist; and Michelle Aarde, distributor for Six and Spalicious for KZN.” The conference content covered coaching skills; leading and managing staff according to their individual personality types; and increasing
revenue in your business. Also included was an intensive 12-month marketing planner and an analysis on the profitability and cost of goods for treatments and retail. Commenting on the Beauty Bootcamp, Lisa Rautenbach, owner of Sherbet Angel, said: “This was such a unique experience with so much learned, so much inspiration,
and so much to work towards. I am very excited to start implementing everything you have taught us.” Pravina Michael, owner of Renewed Confidence, added: “I am so impressed with the knowledge and motivation I received.” The dates and venue for the 2015 Beauty Business Bootcamp will be announced in June.
Professional Beauty May 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Demand Excellence Thalgo treatments are the result of years of research into efficient, safe and innovative marine formulations, for a unique and unrivalled Spa experience.
For more information contact: Thalgo 011 880 3440 or 011 8803851 sales@marinespadistributors.co.za • www.thalgo.co.za • Specialists in marine well-being • Skincare, Body & Spa, Mens & Sun care • Spa consultancy • Thalassonutrition • Full marketing, spa educational & retail support • Full brand commitment to sustainable development • High profit margins
spa focus
17
The designer touch Designing your dream spa is a fun and creative process, but, before you decide on your ideal layout, consider the financial costs and benefits, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.
T
here are two equally important elements to spa design – space allocation and flow, and, secondly, theme, colour and finishes. Always remember why clients visit spas – the need for relaxation, stress relief and skincare therapy. Certain design elements can play a large part in achieving this, but they will not ensure client retention or a profitable business. The idea is to balance the two elements and to provide the most comfortable and functional environment for both your clients and staff members.
Entrance This is the client’s first visual impression of your business and should be given careful and due consideration. It is essential to have a reception desk, the size of which depends on the number of clients it needs to service on the busiest days. It also depends on whether this desk will be used for check-in and check-out and reservations.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
The dream spa reception area would include a checkin desk, a check-out desk and a separate reservations department, which would be in a back office free from the busy front-desk activities and noise. Keep retail visible and preferably to the right side of the reception desk, as this is the side people tend to gravitate towards when entering a space. The entrance should allow clients to sit and see the retail offering while they are waiting. No spa business will be sustainably profitable without a major emphasis on retail sales. Retail must contribute a minimum of 40% of your total business turnover, and I prefer to work with a 50% retail contribution.
Flow Take the guesswork out of the spa journey that you offer clients. They should be able to see the reception area as soon as they arrive, and thereafter the journey to the change rooms should be as quick R
Professional Beauty May 2014
spa focus
18
Whatever your design make sure you can: and effortless as possible. Once the client has changed into your spa outfit make sure the treatment room can be easily found and that access to all the facilities is not too far away. Try to make sure that no public places have to be passed between the change rooms and the treatment rooms. Sometimes the shape of your space is not that easy to work with, but, unless you are trying to accommodate wheelchairs, try to avoid having reception or public areas exposed to guests in their spa attire. Make sure you design wider passages to allow clients to pass each other comfortably. Wide passages also make the spa feel more spacious. Don’t forget to create good flow for support functions in the spa, such as allowing technicians to get to equipment to service it, moving dirty linen to the laundry room, getting stock to treatment rooms and receiving orders from suppliers. Try to plan this as carefully as you can. When designing a spa I always try to walk the path of all the people involved in the spa, including the guest.
❦ Move clients around smoothly and efficiently ❦ Sell more retail ❦ Allow for a larger volume of clients ❦ Keep staff happy in their own space ❦ Grow your business I can’t stress enough how important this stage of your business development is. So show the plans to as many people as you can who have knowledge of this business, such as the therapists who will work at the spa, and, very importantly, an experienced spa/salon consultant.
Multifunctional rooms Designing rooms that allow for several different treatments, such as facials, waxing, massage and body treatments, is a good way to increase your productivity in the business and, in turn, to generate revenue. These rooms need additional storage space to hide
Professional Beauty May 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
19
equipment not being used for a particular treatment. The trick in designing the perfect multifunctional room is to ensure that it does not look like one. The client must walk in and think the room is specific to their treatment. Multifunctional rooms also allow groups to book in together for treatments. One very important tip is to tailor-make the room for your therapists to ensure they have everything they need in the room, while also keeping your clients’ needs in mind. There are some very innovative and practical vanity designs being used in spa/salon developments today. The ideal size of treatment room is nothing under 12m2. Try to stick to 16m2, so that your guest feels comfortable and relaxed.
Spa equipment The equipment you choose could be the most important decision you make for your business, so go for quality and comfort rather than price. Always try to find something different, new and innovative. Make sure the equipment can fit into the treatment rooms before purchasing it. There are some new beds on the market that have built-in heating, which eliminates the need for an electric blanket. They also have gorgeous thick mattresses which are very luxurious and comfortable. Call in a professional spa consultant who has access to the different styles and types of equipment to assist your decision-making process.
Steam, sauna, rasul or hammam? These facilities and offerings are almost a given in a spa, but be very careful when considering them. Always make your decision based on what percentage of the total floor space you allocate to R
Professional Beauty May 2014
spa focus
20 non-income generating space. For a standalone spa or one in a shopping complex with high rentals, I try to use the 30/70 principle, allocating only 30% of the space to non-income essential space and 70% to incomegenerating space. When it comes to hotel or destination spas, you will require more non-income facilities space, even as much as 50%. This space is generally shared by hotel and spa, thereby splitting maintenance costs.
Allow for expansion At the time of building or planning your spa you will no doubt think that you have plenty of treatment rooms. However, in five or 10 years your space will be too small and inadequate to accommodate changes in the marketplace. Please ensure you have space to grow, be it upwards or outwards. Planning for expansion at the inception of your business will save you a lot of money later on.
The equipment you choose could be the most important decision you make for your business. Staff space Your staff are the most important part of your business, so allocate a spacious area for them where they can sit, eat and re-energise. Be sure to use clever colours, finishes and scents in this area to give them a major boost of energy every time they enter this space. PB
Professional Beauty May 2014
Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@ thespaconsultants. co.za for more information.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty Durban
22
Durban’s big beauty bonanza The top brands in the professional skincare, body care, nails, non-surgical medical aesthetics and hair sectors will be showcased at Professional Beauty Durban, which takes place at the ICC on 18 and 19 May.
Face & body RegimA will introduce The RégimA Zone, which utilises advanced technology for maximum anti-ageing effect. Revolutionary skin lightening facial and max peels for hyperpigmentation will be showcased by Pharmaclinix, which offers treatments for Asian and darker skin types. Nature’s Essence specialises in treatments for pigmentation, acne, age defence, skin lightening and coloressence makeup. Anyone purchasing over R500 of hair removal products from Lycon Distribution will qualify for free Lycon training. All salons and spas that are interested in becoming Zehra Age Beautifully distributors will receive a Zehra starter pack at the show. SharTre Distributors will exhibit the Alexandria Professional Body Sugaring natural hair removal system. Visitors to the Lamprobe stand can witness the instant removal of many different types of skin lesions/ blemishes. These cosmetic treatments are performed by somatologists, nurses and doctors. Lilian Terry International will showcase its LT FlexyCups, homeopathic aromatherapy facial gels and toners and complexes.
All those interested in eyelash extension training should visit the Luscious Lashes International Eyelash Extensions stand.
DURBAN
Sold in over 20 countries, eyeSlices is an award winning re-usable eye treatment pad that targets puffiness, dark circles, tiredness, red eyes and anti-ageing in just five minutes.
Nails
Bio Sculpture Gel will be offering the Express Gel treatment, as well as launching the new Smoke & Mirrors Nail Collection. Supporting the gel products is the exclusive Bio Sculpture spa treatment range. In addition to introducing 27 new colours, nailsforu will offer massive discounts of their award winning product range. Nailworks will launch the first Glass Gels with Designer Foils in South Africa. The recently launched premier line of professional manicure and pedicure products from Milk Solutions will be showcased at the show. Ice Beauty Shellac Nails will introduce IBN one step gel, a revolutionary new soak off nail gel that does not require primer, base coat or wiping. Nail products that vary from Salon sets to Kitty sets will be launched by MoYou, who will demonstrate designs on clients for free. The OPI range will be showcased by Twincare Professional Outlet.
Professional Beauty May 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty Durban Hitech Lasers
23 and Member of the Cosmetic Scientists, GB, will introduce medicated facials and chemical peels for hyperpigmentation, acne and scarring, with tailored regimes and protocols to treat individual cases. Treatments and facials will be carried out on the stand. Gossain will be available for skincare advice and beauty tips. She has received many presitigious awards in the cosmetic-dermatology field.
Non-surgical devices Cost-effective and award winning Viora body sculpting and skin rejuvenation systems will be exhibited by Medilase.
Devices for dissolving fat, skin tightening, anti-cellulite, lymph drainage and IPL treatments will be on show by BTL Industries.
Medilase
The 2012 Lumenis Distributor of the Year, Hitech Lasers, will launch the new Lumenis Desire Diode hair removal laser.
The latest devices from Alma Lasers will be displayed by Best Lasers.
Hair Twincare Professional Outlet will exhibit the latest products from Moroccan Oil, TIGI, Paul Mitchell, Biosense, Sharplines, Parlux and Babybliss Pro on stand B9. The new Crystal Diamond Keratin solution will be launched on F9 by Hairgostraight who, along with Demar (KZN), is the sole supplier of Bhave from Australia.
International guests
Founder and MD of Pharmaclinix Ltd, UK, Shashi Gossain, will be in attendance on stand D5. She is the developer of the exclusive Pharmaclinix Skincare range, which specifically addresses the problems associated with Asian and darker skin types. Gossain, a Member of the Royal Pharmaceutical Society
Co-owner of Lilian Terry International, Dr Kateryna V Tsvietkova, will be on C23 to demonstrate the LT FlexyCups, as well as to give advice and recommendations. Dr Tsvietkova is the co-creator of the LT complexes along with the late Lilian Terry. In November 2010 Dr Tsvietkova won first prize at the homeopathic conference in Ukraine for the development of the theory of homeopathy. Dr Tsvietkova has over 25 years of experience in homeopathy and has completed over 30 publications in medical journals about pulmonology and homeopathy.
SAAHSP Seminar
The South African Association of Health & Skincare Professionals (SAAHSP) will host a seminar on Monday, 19 May at the ICC. Joelette Theron will present the SAAHSP Professional Body Update. SAAHSP has been awarded Professional Body Recognition from SAQA. Tracy Chambers will present a session on how to include light therapy in treatments. Janine Thomson, owner of The Skin & Body Clinic for over 20 years, will give a presentation on how vascular, sebaceous and keratinised lesions can be non-invasively and safely removed to create flawless skin. Thomson will reveal how these treatments are highly satisfying for both clients and therapists. She is the current distributor and trainer for Lamprobe Southern Africa. PB
Professional Beauty Network Run in conjunction with Professional Beauty, the Professional Beauty Network, which was launched in KwaZulu-Natal two years ago, will have a breakfast session on 19 May, also at the ICC. Focused on uplifting the spa and beauty industry, the Professional Beauty Network is a platform that provides beauty professionals, salon/spa owners, managers, therapists and suppliers with the chance to network, meet industry experts and keep updated with the latest information in the industry.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty May 2014
business tips
24
The Business of
Beauty Blog Quality and service dictates whether a spa or business will flourish and grow like a giant tree, or whether it will wither like a flower without water, writes Debbie Merdjan.
S
At your service… Give 100% all the time.
ervice excellence is a key differentiator for businesses today, especially with the boom of social media where clients can so freely communicate their experiences. The importance of providing a quality experience is absolutely essential and cutting corners in client service is not an option. Remember that you only get one chance to make a first impression and that this is the lasting impression. Do whatever it takes to achieve service excellence and client satisfaction. Give 100% all the time. Customer skills are critical for personal and organisational success. How you handle your clients can directly affect your individual goals, as well as your team’s and company’s performance. Before going ‘above and beyond,’ employees must be experts in the basics and understand the company’s policies, procedures and treatment protocols.
Crucial elements 1. Do you have a workplace etiquette policy or service culture plan and are you aware that every employee in your organisation is important to its success? 2. Can you differentiate between competent staff and passionate staff? (Competent staff do the job while passionate staff love the job). How do you inspire employees to bring their passion to work every day? 3. Do you hold yourself personally accountable and responsible for the success of your staff? 4. Do your staff know the core values, mission and vision of your business? 5. What are your service expectations and are your staff aware of them?
Personalise the client experience
Attention to detail is imperative in our industry. Take care of all of your clients’ needs – pay their parking, make lunch reservations for them, stay late, deliver products and do whatever else will help your client to relax and enjoy the service. Remember everything important about your client and write it down. This includes birthdays, holidays, family information and stressful life events. By recording this information on clients’ consultation cards you increase your personal connection with clients. Show every client that you care from the moment of arrival to departure. In summary, service excellence is the essence of spa excellence and a healthy spa culture is the most important contributor to a guest’s positive experience. Neglecting punctuality, hygiene, cleanliness and maintenance, not establishing service levels and not ensuring proper staff training will damage your spa’s business and negatively impact the guest experience. Pay attention to the essentials of service excellence and you create the culture necessary to thrive in today’s competitive and customer-focused marketplace. To quote Aristotle: ‘We are what we repeatedly do; excellence then is not an act but a habit’. PB Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin care training. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.
Professional Beauty May 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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business tips
26
How to get ahead
in the beauty industry Running a successful beauty company is not just about being product-savvy, but about finding canny ways to connect with your target market, as delegates at the recent Professional Beauty Network Breakfast in Johannesburg discovered.
T
he beauty client of today wants four things – instant gratification, value for money, information and convenience. So said Sonette Donker, Dermalogica’s communications manager, at the recent Professional Beauty Network Breakfast held in Kyalami, Johannesburg. Donker continued: “Clients want immediate results. They love aesthetic treatments because they can see the results instantly. That’s what we as beauty companies are competing against. Consumers want to choose results-driven products. “It’s not easy selecting the right products/brands for your salon so call in a consultant or tap into your client base for feedback. People don’t mind paying money for products as long as they work.” Value for money not only refers to a great treatment at a competitive rate, it also means loyalty programmes and GWP (Gift With Purchase). “Your GWP should compete with what consumer products are offering,” stated Donker.
convenient for your clients? Do you have online booking facilities? Is your salon located in a safe and pleasant environment? Is there free, safe parking for clients? “Availability also encompasses stockholding – it’s essential to ensure you have enough products in stock for all the treatments on your menu. Home-care products must also be available at your salon; they should be like a prescription for the customer,” she explained.
Info-hungry
Donker highlighted several apps that can be used for beauty businesses. “Quick Sale is an invoicing programme that is also great for inventory control. An app called Contacts allows you to capture full client details, including birthdays. “You can build templates for newsletters on Pages, while HootSuite manages your social media accounts such as Twitter and Facebook. Other useful apps are Ovatu (for bookings), Scan and DocuSign Ink,” she concluded. PB
‘Socialising’
“Never underestimate the value of PR, especially if it is a review of a facial or treatment, etc.”
She noted that consumers frequently google information about beauty products. “They should rather be speaking to us, the experts. You need to talk to consumers and find out what they want. I always advise doing a proper consultation prior to a treatment, with the consultation fee redeemable in the first treatment.” When running a salon, availability and convenience are key factors, according to Donker. “Are your operating hours
Donker emphasised the importance of communicating on social media. “Twitter, Facebook and YouTube are wonderful ways to talk about your business and cost nothing . Last week I met a makeup artist who was starting her own YouTube channel. LinkedIn is a great way to build communications with other brands. “Never underestimate the value of PR, especially if it is a review of a facial or treatment, etc. Showcase your PR on social media and websites.”
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Professional Beauty May 2014
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Non-Irritating
chemical peels
29
Peeling back
the layers
Working on the basic concept of ‘out with the old, in with the new’, chemical peels slough off the dead cells on the skin to expose the fresh, untainted skin below.
C
hemical peels have been around since ancient Egyptian times as a method of rejuvenating the skin. Says aesthetics therapist Christina Bowman: “Over the centuries the ingredient
online at www.probeauty.co.za
agent o f peels has changed, but, in my opinion, even with technologically advanced equipment like lasers, IPLs, and radio frequency entering the aesthetics industry, peeling is still one of the best and least expensive methods of skin renewal.” R
Professional Beauty May 2014
chemical peels
30
Dalize Havenga of Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS) defines chemical peeling as an in-salon procedure that involves the application of a chemical agent to the skin to induce controlled destruction, or exfoliation, of old skin. “This is followed by the growth of new skin. Peels treat sun-damaged skin, pigmentation, blotchiness, melasma and textural changes, age spots as well as reducing fine lines and wrinkles,” she explains. In the last 10 years, peels have gone from single ingredient peels, like glycolic acid or lactic acid on their Peels treat own, to blended peels. sun-damaged skin, “These will take anything from pigmentation, blotchiness, skin by increasing exfoliation,” she continues. “Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), the most two to five different ingredients – melasma and textural common of which is salicylic acid, are able combinations such as glycolic acid, changes, age spots as to penetrate the oils in the skin and clear the salicylic acid, lactic and growth well as reducing follicles of excess debris and skin cells. factors. You get more benefits from fine lines and “Poly hydroxy acids (PHAs) function in the these peels, as each ingredient has a wrinkles. same way as AHAs, but cause less irritation due different effect on the skin,” explains to their larger molecular size. Some common PHAs Bowman. are lactobionic acid, galactose and gluconic acid. She cites the benefits of “Two more peeling ingredients that are not part peeling as improving the of the fruit acid family are trichloroacetic acid (TCA), skin’s texture, increasing Peels improve the which is a layer-dependent ingredient, and not timethe cellular turnover and skin’s texture, increase dependent, and phenol, one of the strongest chemical improving the skin’s the cellular turnover solutions available and produces a deep skin peel.” ability to hold onto
1
2
and more moisture. Peeling also helps produce more collagen, resulting in reduced fine lines and wrinkles, unclogging of pores, smoother and softer skin.
improve the skin’s ability to hold onto more moisture.
3
Different strokes
The same peel is not always suitable for each skin concern, skin type or colour. For that reason Bowman Peeling aids recommends an in-depth skin collagen production, analysis prior to any treatment. resulting in reduced “I advise prepping the skin for Perceptions fine lines and wrinkles, at least seven to 10 days before Not all peels are created equal, points out Jacqui unclogging of pores, the treatment, as every peel Faucitt of RégimA. “There is a perception that reacts differently on each skin. smoother and peeling will thin the skin and feel excruciating, and Cosmeceutical advanced peels that there will be an excessive downtime, but that softer skin. have a very low pH balance so your only applies to old technology. Peels no longer need client’s skin may have a reaction to this. to be a case of ‘no pain no gain’. I always give clients a product in advance “New generation peels stimulate collagen synthesis that lowers the pH to about 1.8, with a low percentage and re-elasticise like never before. The secret is within the of AHA. If they are having a deeper peel, like a TCA, I formulation. It must provide the finest natural acids, in high recommend a pre-treatment with Vitamin A,” advises concentrations, but combined with healing plants, with Bowman. essential anti-inflammatory and antioxidant action to take Sonette Donker of Dermalogica agrees that a skin peeling to a more therapeutic level, but with safety. detailed consultation is vital and adds: “The following Peels should not only strip the skin but heal it as well.” conditions are contra-indicated: cancer, diabetes, poor According to Karen Ellithorne of Spa & Salon Solutions, health and thin skin. some of the more common alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) “Fitzpatrick Skin Types 5 and 6 are contra-indicated found in peel formulations include glycolic acid; malic acid; for certain medium depth peels as well as any deep tartaric acid; mandelic acid; citric acid; and lactic acid. chemical peel.” R “AHAs are commonly used in skincare to brighten the
Professional Beauty May 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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chemical peels
32 Havenga explains that Anesi Beaute has two types of peels – chemical and mechanical. “In the chemical peel Anesi uses AHAs, mainly glycolic acid. AHAs and marine ingredients, which act as a rough exfoliator, are used in Anesi’s mechanical peels. “Anesi Beaute offers peeling treatments for anti-aging, skin resurfacing and for the treatment of acne,” she comments. Instead of using typical chemical substances, Juliette Armand’s Apocalypses Therapy uses plant extracts (phytopeeling) of spongilla, fragilis and ephydatia herbs with AHA acids in concentration up to 40% and a pH of 2.5. This combination is effective in the treatment of wrinkles, dyschromias, scars and spots. Potent soothing ingredients like Kelifluo and Panthenol reduce common undesired irritations of chemical peeling. This treatment can be done once every 28 days and is not recommended for the summer months.
Power to the peel
ammonium hydroxide.” says Faucitt. RégimA Zone Power Peels contain six natural acids including peach, raspberry and apple, plus healing, exfoliating and smoothing active ingredients. “Natural acids are more easily absorbed and provide enhanced and more rapid healing and less irritation. They also thicken and re-elasticise the skin. AHAs stimulate collagen production and keep moisture in the skin, while BHAs unblock oily skin problems,” explains Faucitt. 1/100th as strong as a peel at pH 1.5, irrespective of the percentage of the peel. Buffered peels mean the acid is partially neutralised to a higher pH, making it weaker and less effective. Excessive peeling with buffered acids are to be avoided because of the chemicals involved, for example
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
Factors
The DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care range recommends and makes use of safe and effective peeling mediums that, when applied correctly, may significantly improve on texture, tone and general appearance of the skin. Says Ursula Hunt of DermaFix: “An important point to remember when considering a chemical peel is that peeling may only be deemed successful if certain factors are controlled to the best of your ability. These factors include the correct use of home care both preas well as post-peel, controlling Common the melanocyte activity so as PHAs to minimise the risk of postare lactobionic inflammatory hyperpigmentation acid, galactose and avoiding the sun as much as and gluconic acid.
include glycolic acid, RégimA Zone Power Peels 30% malic acid, tartaric & 50% were recently launched in London and Cape Town. acid, mandelic acid, “These offer a combination of citric acid, and six powerful fruit acids, including lactic acid. peach, raspberry and apple, which have a lightening effect superior to hydroquinone with 100% safety. They provide multifunctional action Beta hydroxy and their rapid exfoliation translates to a shorter treatment time, with acids (BHAs), the most common of minimised downtime. which is salicylic acid, are “A peel at pH 3.5 will be only able to penetrate the oils in the skin and clear the follicles of excess debris and skin cells.
Professional Beauty May 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
chemical peels
33 Varying degrees of peels Superficial peels do not damage the
skin below the epidermis, which are the most superficial layers of the skin. These peels are usually AHAs with higher pH levels and lower percentages of the main active ingredients. You may experience very mind flacking instead of real peeling and there is no downtime.
Medium depth peels use stronger
chemical agents - this usually reaches the superficial layer of the dermis. As it creates a deeper wound, the healing process is between seven to 10 days.
Deep chemical peels affect the deeper layers of the dermis and are usually done by a medical practitioner. Downtime may be anything between three and six weeks. These peels are also done in combination with a LED soft laser to allow the chemical to penetrate deeper into the skin.
possible by making use of a suitable sun protection product. “Further points to factor in along with your chemical peel are the amount of potential downtime, or the time it will take for your skin to undergo the peeling phase. This down-time will differ from person to person, depending on how well the skin was prepared for the peel, the peeling medium used, the amount of chemical peels being done and the general health of the skin on the day of the peel.” The advanced AHA range of Priori peels contains the first-ever combination of LCA complex and MFAS (Multi-functional Anti-oxidant Sequence) and Idebenones, the first-ever antioxidant skin therapy system that targets aging at the cellular source. Ideal as a hydrating and anti-ageing remedy, the Priori Advanced AHA Professional Peeling is an intensive treatment that leaves the skin hydrated, revitalised and nourished with multi-functional vitamin antioxidants for protection and anti-ageing benefits. The added benefit is that skin requires no healing after the treatment and there is consequently no downtime Willa Krause Skincare has a 30% glycolic peel solution and neutraliser. A 0.5% buffer has been added to make the burning and tingling sensation more comfortable for the client. “We chose to use glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane, because its molecules are the smallest and can then penetrate the skin deeper than other AHAs,” states Francell Krause. PCA Skin offers two peels – the Ultra Peel I, which comprises 10% TCA, 20% Lactic Acid, Azelaic Acid and Kojic Acid, and Ultra Peel II (10% Retinol, L-Ascorbic Acid, Galactoarabinan, Soy Isoflavones, and DHAE). PB
Professional Beauty May 2014
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treatment review – eyelash extensions
35
The ‘Xtreme’
of lash-dom Unathi Diko recently ventured into the wonderful world of eyelash extensions.
W
ith my wedding coming up in October, I was really keen to see whether lash extensions were a look I would go for on the big day. Prior to my procedure, Penny Cheong of Xtreme Lashes South Africa had me complete an in-depth consultation form to provide details of my medical history. She stressed that Xtreme Lashes, an American company with a presence in 22 countries around the world, was very focused on safety. “The eyelash extension procedure is not a simple thing and requires proper training with hands-on experience,” explained Cheong. “We only sell Xtreme kits to stylists who have undergone our two-day training workshops. I won’t certify anyone unless they produce a portfolio of the work following the workshop. Girls must sit a practical exam after submitting their portfolios before we will endorse their work. I encourage stylists to hone their skills before charging customers.” Cheong noted that all her products are sourced directly from Xtreme Lashes to maintain the highest quality standards. “This is a top end product
online at www.probeauty.co.za
and I don’t source anything from the East,” she added. The Xtreme range comes in Before a variety of different lengths, curvatures and shades. Clients can choose either synthetic lashes or Faux Mink (the latter has finer tips) depending on the effect they want. After Cheong categorised my natural lashes as fine and curly and brownish-black in colour. Xtreme has spent years researching She then measured them carefully and developing its own exclusive and chose five different lengths of adhesive – FlexFusion – which is synthetic lashes to match the varying suitable and safe for all types of lengths of my natural lashes, as well eyes.” as their curvature. I had been a bit apprehensive “We never put on lashes that are about the procedure beforehand, more than 2mm longer than the but as Cheong pointed out, there natural lash as otherwise the lash is no chance of getting your eyes ends up being too heavy and will fall poked out if the procedure is done off quickly,” said Cheong. correctly. She then commenced the Once I saw the finished effect meticulous and lengthy procedure of I was absolutely delighted. The attaching the extensions to my own extensions really brought out my eyelashes, one lash at a time. eyes and I didn’t feel them at all. I “There is no damage to the natural am keen to maintain the extensions lashes if the procedure is done on a long term basis and plan to go properly,” she continued. “Adhesive for fills every two to three weeks.PB is a key factor in eyelash extensions as some of the ones available in Contact: Xtreme Lashes the market can burn the eyes and 011 453 3256 cause irritation. For this reason
Professional Beauty May 2014
treatment review – eyelash extensions
36
An abundance of lashes
Before
New to South Africa, the Volume eyelash extension technique involves bonding a fan of super-light lash extensions onto each natural lash, as Belinda Wewege discovers.
M
y lash extension treatment took place in Centurion, at the Luscious Lashes Pretoria Franchise. While lash stylist Ivone Ho-Tong performed the treatment, Charmaine Runkel, who holds the training franchise for the area, provided the information. “All the Luscious Lashes trainers and I recently received international certification from leading UK trainer, LASHacademy, on the Volume technique to ensure that we are up to date with the latest international techniques and trends,” explained Runkel. “Luscious Lashes is currently the only company in South Africa offering Classic and Volume training via all its franchise trainers. Whereas the Classic technique involves attaching a single lash extension to each natural lash, with Volume you can achieve a 2D, 3D, 4D or 6D effect, depending on personal preference. For example, to create 2D you attach a fan comprised of two lash extensions to each natural lash, while 3D is created with a fan of three extensions per natural lash, and so on. The Volume look is very big in Europe, specifically Russia for the 6D look.” Prior to applying the extensions, Ho-Tong tinted my natural eyelashes as this gets rid of any oil that may be on the lashes, while simultaneously enhancing the lower lid lashes.
After
Luscious Lashes is currently the only company in South Africa offering Classic and Volume training via all its franchise trainers.
“Obviously Volume is a far more time-consuming technique than Classic as you are attaching up to six times the number of lashes,” continued Runkel. “People always ask us why we don’t create the Volume fans prior to treatment in order to save time. We don’t do this because that would mean extra bonding liquid on each fan, which would then have to be bonded again to the natural lash, thus adding weight to the extension. The extra weight can lead to damage and premature lash loss. So we create the fans during treatment as we go along.” She emphasised that maintaining the health of the natural lash is of paramount importance to Luscious
Professional Beauty May 2014
Lashes. The lashes are made from Pro-fibre, a pourous synthetic material that enhances the bond with the natural lash and is softer than synthetic Mink and Silk lashes. Therapists have access to a range of bonding liquids, from pharmaceutical grade imported from the US to a high performance bonding liquid with a drying time of a few seconds, none of which contain formaldehyde. The Luscious Lashes motto is: Throw away your mascara forever. When I saw the finished effect, I could see what they meant. My eyes looked super enhanced and made-up, without any eye make-up at all! I love this look – it’s definitely a keeper. PB
Contact: Luscious Lashes 072 338 7000
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?
e t a D o e Up T
u q i n h c sh Te
a L r u o Is Y We have set the standard since 2005‌ and are now offering a new advanced master course in the multilash Volume technique through our national trainers.
We were the pioneers of the Layering and Framework technique in SA, a technique that has been replicated by many other companies.
Our reputation has been built by providing World Class training and products to more than 1800 therapists
We are confident enough in our products and training to promote our therapists via our Accredited Salons listing and we will only supply our Luscious Lashes products to therapists that have been trained by us. We do this to maintain a standard that clients may rely upon and to support those therapists that have helped us build the brand over the years.
AFTER
We supply a comprehensive range of world class products including our Red Cap hypo-allergenic pharmaceutical grade bonding liquid sourced in the USA and is included in our kits.
BEFORE
All Luscious Lashes trainers have recently received international training and certification in the Volume technique from the LashAcademy UK who are approved by the Guild of Professional Beauty Therapists. These courses are now available to experienced therapists via our national network of trainers.
in the Classic eyelash extension technique over the past 9 years.
Second and third hand training programs just aren't good enough for our therapists that is why we insist that all our trainers have certification from leading companies in the USA and/or the UK.
...and if that is not enough to convince you to join our next course... We have an exclusive special offer on our Classic Training course including the Kit for Professional Beauty readers during May and June 2014 @ R5000* CONTACT US Head Office: 021 557 5279 or 072 338 7000 e-mail: info@luscious.co.za www.eyelashextensions.co.za Franchise Trainers: Cape Town, Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Garden Route, Bloemfontein, Kimberley, Mpumalanga *No hidden costs or taxes, that’s all it costs!
treatment review – eyelash extensions
39
All ‘lash-ed’ out Keen to abandon her mascara, Yolanda Knott turned to eyelash enhancements from The Lash Collection to add thickness and curl to her natural lashes.
Before
After
After
T
he lash enhancement treatment took place at Sorbet Rivonia Village, where owner Devon Murphy explained that The Lash Collection is the Sorbet Group’s lash extension supplier and trainer of choice. Said Murphy: “The Lash Collection is a very professional company. They were also extremely supportive during the training period when my lash stylists did their course at the Sorbet head office in Johannesburg.” While Carla Ortlepp, The Lash Collection’s Training & Product Development Manager, performed my treatment, she told me that the company’s comprehensive training programme incorporates every aspect of theory, practical application, hygiene and safety. The Lash Collection offers lash extensions in a choice of four different curls; three different densities – from really fine lashes to thicker lashes; and lengths that range from 8mm to 16mm. “With such a wide range of lashes you can create exactly what the customer is looking for,” continued Ortlepp. “Our extensions are made from a porous fibre which allows for maximum adhesion to the natural eyelash. The extensions are soft and curved with a flat base and a fine tip, just like natural eyelashes. Our fast-drying, formaldehyde-free adhesive is medically graded and contains a black pigment that blends in with the natural eyelashes.” My natural lashes are very long and straight so I wanted them to look thicker and have more of a curl in order to open up my eyes. Another reason for wanting extensions was that I dislike wearing mascara on my top lashes as it always seems to smudge.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
After cleansing and priming my lashes, Ortlepp placed an open jar of The Lash Collection Anti Allergy Gel near my face to reduce the level of fumes in the work area. She then covered my lower lid lashes with gel pads to protect them during the treatment. To enhance the curl Ortlepp chose the B-Curl curvature and used a thicker lash (0.20mm thickness) to add volume. She attached the extensions as close to the base of each of my natural lashes as possible and created a fan effect by using a variety of lengths – 9mm, 10mm, 11mm and 12mm. As Ortlepp concluded the treatment she stressed the importance of only using water-based products around the eyes, such as The Lash Collection eye make-up remover and coating sealant. She also recommended the Chrissanthie Eyelid Cleanser, which not only sanitises the lashes but also treats Blepharitis, a condition that leaves eyes dry, scratchy and red. When I saw the finished result I was absolutely delighted. My lashes looked really thick and curled beautifully away from my eyes. And, there was absolutely no need for any mascara. PB
Contact: The Lash Collection 021 555 1517
Professional Beauty May 2014
winter skin
41
When the well
runs dry
As if adding insult to injury, the onset of winter not only brings nasty weather, but considerably drier air. The colder the air, the less moisture it contains, which is why winter skin runs the risk of resembling a dried prune, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
T
alk to experts about winter skin and they’ll be quick to point out the difference between dry skin (a skin type that you’re born with) and dehydrated skin (a skin condition that results due to changes in weather, environment, lifestyle, diet and health). Says Meghan Less, training manager at Poise Brands: “Dry skin generally refers to skin that is lacking in oil, whereas dehydrated skin is characterised by lack of water in the stratum corneum. The epidermal and dermal cells lose water in two ways: trans-epidermally and through insensible water loss.” Even if you have a skin like an oil slick, it can still become dehydrated, as Lisa Leibov of Nature’s Secrets SA explains. “Dehydration can occur in any skin type and is caused by systemic conditions and external conditions. Many cosmetics R
Professional Beauty May 2014
winter skin
42
Premature ageing sets in faster and cell turnover becomes much slower in dehydrated skin. on the market for oily skins are very dehydrating as well as drying. “Soap is often used as a cleanser by oily skin sufferers but this severely dries out the skin, disrupts the skin’s acid mantle and causes intense dehydration, making the skin even oilier as it tries to compensate. Medication for oily skin dries out the skin from within, not differentiating between oil and water and therefore severely dehydrating the skin.” Less warns that premature ageing sets in faster and cell turnover becomes much slower in dehydrated skin. “This leads to a dull, polluted and tight-feeling skin. It has a rougher feel and can even result in flaking. Fine lines will start to become more apparent and ultimately, sensitivity can set in.” Both Less and Leibov advocate the use of serums in winter. “Serums generally have higher dosages of active ingredients, and their molecular structure is small enough to penetrate deep into the skin,” comments Leibov. R
Options
To combat winter skin the experts at Nimue recommend the company’s Super Hydrating Serum, a booster treatment for additional hydration and anti-ageing support in all skin types and conditions. This light fresh gel cream is based on a high hydration profile of ingredients that deliver immediate moisture to saturate and refresh the skin for long-term hydration. The ingredients are captured in a nanotechnology delivery system to enhance results. Also recommended is Nimue’s Super Hydrating Mask, a moisture-rich cream mask to supplement, soothe and hydrate dry and dehydrated skin conditions. Key active ingredients include hydrating bio-complex; natural moisturising factor complex; hyaluronic acid; pentavitin plant extract; ubiquinone; and citrus reticulata. Scinderm offers three types of moisturising ingredients: Hygroscopic includes ingredients such as urea, sodium PCA and hyaluronic acid. Barrier Repair refers to ingredients that supplement the natural oils – cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides in certain ratios. Occlusive ingredients, such as vaseline and dimethiconol, form a physical barrier on top of the stratum corneum. opthiphi’s Moisture Control Ultra boosts the production of extracellular matrix collagen and elastin, providing optimal cellular hydration and rejuvenating the skin. Nature’s Secrets products contain high doses of organic virgin coconut oil and sodium hyalorinate, which plumps up the skin and restores hydration. The Nature’s Secrets Aloe Gel 94% is one of the purest forms of aloe vera worldwide. Other hydrating products include the Platinum Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream and the Wrinkle Reduction Formula.
Professional Beauty May 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
SCINDERM MEDICAL
Mama mio is unique,
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K o j i D e r m C A B T M S y s t e m S e r u m / P a d s / T o u c h S t i c k
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Every product is a personal fitness trainer for your skin. Strong is the new skinny!
Safe and effective homecare and spa treatments helping you cope with the nine-month-stretch.
w/SKIN LIGHTENING ADDITIVE High Potency Skin Brightening System
•
Contains enzyme-activated Arbutin for enhanced skin lightening and brightening
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Contains penetration-enhancing Salicylic acid
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Fortified with Kojic and Ascorbic acids for chelating and anti-oxidant benefits Light weight fragrance—and preservative-free solution vehicle Available in three different applications - Serum, pads and touch stick for face, hands, body and spot areas of hyperpigmentation
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winter skin
44 “Dry skin generally refers to skin that is lacking in oil, whereas dehydrated skin is characterised by lack of water in the stratum corneum.” Meghan Less
Humectants The term humectant is often used for ingredients that combat dehydration. “It essentially means that the ingredient is able to bond with, and potentially retain, moisture,” continues Leibov. “Many ingredients combat dehydration directly as well as indirectly, such as organic virgin coconut oil, which increases the moisture content of the skin and helps to combat dehydration even though it is in ‘oil’ form and not ‘water’ form. It seals in the moisture and helps to retain the fluid balance of the skin. Aloe vera is incredibly hydrating and helps to combat dehydration and sensitivity.” Less adds that hyaluronic acid, which has the ability to hold onto 1000 times its weight in water, is a natural substance of the skin and ensures good hydration of the cells and plumps the skin. “Due to the natural factor, the skin can easily recognise this ingredient in products.” Commenting on humectants, Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA says: “While a humectant such as glycerin can add moisture, in dry climates glycerin actually draws moisture out of the skin so it is not an ingredient of choice during dry winters.” Dr Robert Gobac of Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals points out that many products will try to restore the content of water in superficial layers of the skin. “It is very important that the product will, at the same time, prevent trans-epidermal water loss and improve the physiology of the skin.” PB
Options DermaFix ACC Hyaluronic Gel not only provides the skin with vital moisture but also binds and locks water into the skin, thereby reducing trans-epidermal water loss. Also from DermaFix is Bio-Effective Cream, an essential fatty acid blend for ageing skin as well as a regenerative skin treatment for lipiddeficient skin. The occlusive ingredients in Moisturiser Rx have been shown to reduce water loss by 98%, proving to be a more effective humectant, whereas oils only manage 20-30% in water production. Faucitt notes that the new RégimA Zone Super Smoother offers dual hyaluronic action. “It quickly plumps both the epidermis and the dermis, with a cumulative effect. In addition this product enhances the action of injectable fillers. “RégimA also has the Zone Techno-5 Resurfacer, an ideal product choice for a dry skin. Zone Age Reversal Night Complex Zone is also highly recommended for dry or dehydrated skins.” Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals uses bio-identical lipids to prevent water loss, while using intelligent molecules that can keep up to 1000 times more water than their weight, to bring the water into the tissue from the outside. Says Dr Gobac: “Various peptides in our products will regulate and modify the health of the skin and in that way also promote hydration and water preservation within skin tissue. The use of our gentle wash will not only preserve, but also recover, the lipid bi-layer of the skin, and in that way prevent dehydration. Our Vitamin A Serum is specifically formulated to remobilise the skin’s own healing mechanism.” Dr Gobac Day Balance Cream is a complex formulation carefully balanced to rehabilitate the skin, deep down, while Night Lift is formulated to increase metabolism and hydration levels. Juliette Armand has a choice of serums that address hydration, such as Hyaluronic Filler; Hyaluronic Acid Serum and Collagen and Elastin Serum from the Elements range; and The Chronos Hydra Antitox Serum from the Skin Boosters range.
Professional Beauty May 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
It’s a miracle! “Your tissue oil is FANTASTIC! I love the way it doesn’t leave an oily feel after application and it works like magic. Just thought I would write in and tell you, your product is super!” Gemma • Helps improve the appearance of stretch marks, scars & blemishes • For sunburn – alleviates the itching, reduces redness & prevents peeling • Nourishes dry hair & dry scalp • Lightens pigmentation • Moisturises dry flaky skin/eczema • Reduces the appearance of fine lines & wrinkles
Treatment from Head -to-Toe
Tel: +27 (0) 11 493-2007 | Fax: 011 616 0578 E-mail: info@lays-beauty.com Website: www.lays-beauty.com
nails
46
Tip to toe grooming From businesswomen to home executives, teenagers and even gents, everyone is now more aware that having their tips and toes perfectly groomed is not just a pampering treat but a necessity, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
W
hether nails are short and polished with a knockout colour or beautifully natural, anyone with well cared for hands and feet looks fully dressed and feels more confident. Believe it or not, people have been manicuring their nails for more than 4000 years. However, the nail industry has evolved incredibly in terms of technology and product innovation since then, when nails were almond shaped, short and slightly pointed, tinted with scented red oil and buffed with a chamois cloth. Today, nail stylists have a huge responsibility towards their clients and must ensure they stay up to date with the latest developments in technology, techniques and services. Customers look for efficiency, a superior quality professional service, and nail stylists who have a sound understanding of their profession.
Back to the basics A good understanding of the natural nail and surrounding skin is essential. Natural nail care can improve and maintain nail and skin health and be very beneficial when performed professionally. Treatments and services can
help provide nourishment, hydration and moisture, which helps to keep nails tough and durable and the skin supple and smooth. Although the natural nail plate is non-living and non-breathing (being made of keratin), many things can still affect it. The nail plate cannot be repaired by anything, nor can it repair itself as your skin does. The only way to get rid of a damaged nail is to grow it out, as the new nail grows to replace the damaged nail plate. It is therefore important to practice safe procedures when performing nail care services, to prevent any damage or trauma to the nail plate. The nail bed is situated below the nail plate, which plays a very important role in maintaining the health of the natural nail. The nail bed is filled with tiny blood vessels that have an important function in that they have a rich supply of nutrients as well as nerve endings. It is attached to the nail plate with living skin tissue, which is situated beneath the free edge known as the hyponychium. This acts as a protection in the same way as the living skin tissue found around the top of the nail plate. What affects the nail bed? Cleaning under the free edge with sharp edge tools; over cleaning and breaking the
Professional Beauty May 2014
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nails
47
perfection What’s on offer DermaFix Argan Oil makes for an easy-to-use nail and cuticle treatment. Argan Oil works to soften the cuticle, minimise hangnails and nourish the nail bed for healthy nail growth. Massage well into the nail and surrounding cuticle nightly for best results. Lilian Terry International’s nourishing nail care complexes are 100% natural and free of added colourants and preservatives. Nail Care Complex Restore protects and nourishes post fungal nail conditions and treats and prevents fungal infections and yellow, crumbly nails. Nail Care Complex Regeneration enhances nail regeneration and is perfect for slow growing nails. Nail Care Complex Hydration hydrates dry and/or brittle nails.
hyponychium can lead to separation of the nail plate known as onycholysis. This not a contagious condition but can lead to worse conditions.
Cuticle and living skin
Sparituals offers progressive concepts designed to treat hands, feet and nails. Dedicated to the environment, the range offers a vegan and paraben free system of products for hand and foot rituals. It also consists of a collection of sophisticated elixirs to nourish cuticles, build strong nails and establish a flawless environment for colour application. Milk Solutions has an extended line of results-driven and luxuriously pampering manicure and pedicure products for professional and athome use. Fragrances range from deliciously aromatic fruity scents to a totally new range of products designed for the green conscious individual. The faithful classic, Milk and Honey, is a remedy of hydrating and healing ingredients that dates back to ancient times, while Heel Peel creates smooth heels.
The surrounding soft tissue around the nail plate known as the eponychium is very much alive, yet manicurists still continue to cut the living skin tissue, which they believe to be the cuticle. Damaging the eponychium or hyponychium can lead to all kinds of conditions therefore avoid practising harsh manicuring techniques or cutting the living skin. Effective, safe nail and cuticle care can be performed by using the correct products and techniques, to remove only the non-living tissue from the nail plate, R
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty May 2014
nails
48 preserving and nurturing the cuticles No matter how beautifully you and surrounding living skin tissue. may be dressed or how pretty You can ensure proper professional your hair looks, you cannot get nail care services by consulting around the fact that if your with your clients, analysing their nails are not done, you’re not nails and skin properly so as to done. When my hands and recommend the appropriate service. feet are well groomed I feel Always perform your services with sexy, chic and stylish. PB utmost care and safety. It’s imperative to carry out proper sanitation steps and procedures at all times. Meet your client’s expectations The client and nail technician can be exposed as to the treatment you to certain blood diseases if the skin is suggest and recommend the accidently cut, especially if implements are appropriate home care for not thoroughly sanitised and sterilised. maintenance. Pathogens can enter the skin through tiny Using a good quality cuts and abrasions, leading to serious professional brand designed bacterial infections. specifically to treat, hands, Cutting can lead to the surrounding tissue nails and feet goes hand thickening as the skin has a natural selfin hand with good quality defence mechanism and will produce scar professional services. It is the tissue. The more you cut, the thicker the skin nail professional’s duty and will become. responsibility to nurture and Permanent nail plate damage can result if the preserve the integrity of the matrix is exposed and injured in any way. natural nail and surrounding skin.
Negative effects of cutting the living skin
7 ways in which the nail plate can be affected and damaged 1. Using harsh chemicals without protecting the nail plate. 2. Hands and nails being placed in water excessively. 3. Harsh manicuring techniques such as: • Scraping the nail plate when pushing back the cuticles. • Using harsh files to file away layers of the nail plate. • Using implements and files that have not been properly sanitised. 4. Using your nails as tools. 5. Biting or picking. 6. Skin conditions and diseases. 7. Ill health and poor nutrition.
For more information contact: Tel: +27 (0) 11 880 3850/1 Fax: +27(0) 86 532 1265 sales@marinespadistributors.co.za 2014 Mar/Apr_PB Advert.indd 1
2014/03/28 12:57 PM
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promotional feature
51
On the pulse of aesthetic technology AFT (Advanced Florescence Technology) delivers pulsed light in a unique and proprietary way, thus providing an alternative to other light-based devices on the aesthetics market.
W
ith 11 different modules, the Harmony Lite platform from Alma Lasers can be used for multiple applications – ranging from pain-free hair removal to treating psoriasis and vitiligo to skin tightening to treating toenail fungi, among many others. Andrew Best of Best Lasers, the exclusive Sub-Saharan distributor for Alma Lasers, describes the Harmony Lite as a versatile and expandable platform for aesthetic laser and light treatments. “Developed by Alma Lasers, AFT is an improved technology for delivering intense pulsed light to areas of the body or face that need treatment. It increases emission and penetration for safer and more effective treatments, while delivering what Alma Lasers terms ‘Equally Distributed Fluence’. In other words, every pulse has a uniform energy density across the entire output area. This differs from many other pulsed light technologies, which peak and trough during pulse delivery. “AFT yields a more efficient system for aesthetic improvements and results in far less discomfort for the patient. With AFT, the chances of burning the skin are greatly reduced. The system’s efficacy and safety have been tested and approved by the FDA,” explains Best. Many of the Harmony Lite modules, which come in the form of hand pieces, include integrated contact cooling technology. Best points out that as the Harmony Lite is a modular system, clients can purchase each hand piece as and when they require it. “Imbalie Beauty/Placecol has standardised on the Harmony Lite. We’ve also sold units to six African countries including Kenya, Uganda and Botswana.
Before
After
Before
“Harmony Lite is a fabulous device for beauty salons and aesthetic clinics because you really get beautiful results and it’s very safe. Start-up companies who purchase this piece of equipment usually break even in the second month of offering these treatments,” comments Best.
He notes that one of the big advantages of the Harmony Lite in terms of hair removal is that it can treat all skin types on the Fitzpatrick Scale, effectively and safely whereas some light based machines can only treat lighter skins up to Fitpatrick Skin Type IV. Other Harmony Lite applications include treating vascular lesions (such as port wine stains), acne, scar revision and relieving muscle and joint pain relief. According to Best, Alma Lasers is always bringing out new and innovative After technologies. “Soon to be introduced to the South African market is SweatX, a ground breaking, non-invasive treatment for excessive sweating and strong body odour,” concludes Best. PB
ABOVE: SSR Pro
ABOVE: Dye-VL
Photos courtesy: Fernando Stengel, MD
Photos courtesy: Clinical department of Alma Lasers Ltd.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Contact Best Lasers 012 998 9844
Professional Beauty May 2014
product focus - hand creams
52
A helping hand The hands – the workhorses of the body – require extra special care to counteract the inevitable and frequent exposure to wear and tear, sunlight, chemicals and extreme temperatures.
Bye-bye age spots
Creamy radiance
Nimue Active Hand Repair has been specially formulated to help improve and control the problem of age spots on the hands. Used regularly, Active Hand Repair helps maintain healthy and beautiful hands by improving skin texture and exfoliating dead or damaged skin. Key active ingredients include triple alpha-hydroxy-acid complex; kigelia africana; vitamin A ester; vitamin C ester; geranium oil and lavender oil.
The sp@home Pro-Radiance Hand and Nail Cream from Elemis has been specially formulated with a combination of lipid-rich oils including Omega 7, avellana seed oil, macademia seed oil, virgin plum oil and camellia seed oil, delivered in a unique siliconfree balm textured cream.
021 442 7700
086 006 4683
Enriching treatment A nourishing cream with a lovely fragrance, SalonCare Enriched Hand Treatment contains low-level sun protection (UVA and UVB). This product is targeted at hands that are frequently exposed to sun, water or chemicals.
Handy hydration Lycon Spa Essentials Hand and Body Lotions provide instant hydration from head to toe. These lotions comprise extra effective, non-greasy formulas, with pro-vitamin B5, jojoba oil and vitamin E, for their antiagain properties, soothing benefits and long-term protection. They are ideal for manicures.
021 919 2480
021 552 0216
Professional Beauty May 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
product focus - hand creams
53 The lighter side Lightenex Hand & Foot Intense, with SPF 40 and urea 10%, lightens pigmented skin, protects against UVA and UVB rays and intensely moisturises hands and feet. In addition it exfoliates dry and thickened skin, bleaches post-eczema and psoriasis skin and lightens elbows and knees.
031 829 3847
Pigment Restoration Acne Clearance Superficial Vascular Lesions Vascular & Pigmented Lesions
• Laser/RF Sales • Training • Education • Repairs • Maintenance • Installations V The Ultra Platform for Facial Contouring
Skin Rejuvenation Various Skin Conditions
‘Milky’ balm A nourishing balm with added extracts of rooibos and Kigelia Africana to hydrate and feed the skin with antiageing properties, Milk Solutions’ Rooibos and Honey Nourishing Hand & Body Moisturiser forms part of the company’s recently launched natural paraben-free range of manicure and pedicure products, specifically targeting customers looking for a more natural alternative.
Super Hair Removal Skin Tightening
Leg Veins Wrinkles & Acne Scars Tattoo Removal & Fractional Non-ablative Skin Resurfacing Fractional Ablative Skin Resurfacing Hair Removal & Pigmented Lesions
011 784 0376
Tree power MatsiMela Baobab Seed Intensive Hand & Nail Repair is ideal for dry hands that need extra quenching, or hands that suffer from broken or brittle nails. To make this product baobab oil is extracted from the seed of the baobab tree, adansonia digitata, which contains fat-soluble vitamins A, D. E & F, as well as essential fatty acids important for skin health.
083 407 8280
Professional Beauty May 2014
The Comfortable Way to Eliminate Unwanted Body Hair
The Comfortable Way to Tone and Tighten your Skin
Contact: Andy Best Tel: +27 (0) 12 998 9844 Fax: +27 (0) 86 219 1942 Cell: +27 (0) 72 574 3159 Website: www.bestlasers.co.za Email: info@bestlasers.co.za
Laser Skin Resurfacing & Rejuvenation
medical aesthetics
54
On the
‘growth’ path Over the last decade growth factors have become commonplace in most anti-ageing skincare ranges, claiming miraculous, rejuvenating results. Karen Ellithorne reveals why products containing these actives have become so popular in aesthetic and laser clinics.
G
rowth factors are secreted by all the cell types of the epidermis, including the keratinocytes, fibroblasts and melanocytes. They are naturally occurring proteins that are necessary for cellular activity, such as cellular growth and proliferation, and play an important role in maintaining skin health and function. Growth factors can orchestrate a number of cellular processes within the body, including DNA repair, protein synthesis and the cell-to-cell communication that assists the mechanism of all wound healing. As we age our bodies start to produce lower levels of naturally occurring growth factors, which results in the breakdown of the collagen and elastin fibres. Growth factors are able to repair the damage that is caused on a daily basis during the natural ageing process. Those growth factors used as active ingredients in skincare formulations generally come from a variety of
different origins; they can be plant based, animal based or derived from cell cultures in a laboratory. “One of the market leaders in the growth factor industry is an American brand called SkinMedica who harvest their TNS (Tissue Nutrient Solution) active based on the science of wound healing research. TNS is the only growth factor solution on the market which is physiologically balanced, contains over 110 growth factors (a very high concentration) and has uncompromised clinical studies conducted on the final product,” says Helene Schoonees, trainer for SkinMedica in South Africa. She notes that the harvesting of TNS is based on how skin grafts are grown for medical purposes. Human fibroblasts are seeded onto a 3D scaffold, which is put into a solution to keep the cells moist during the time of cell division and growth. While the
Professional Beauty May 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
medical aesthetics
55 cells multiply and grow into a full ECM (Extra Cellular Matrix) and epidermis, they secrete growth factors through the cell membranes, which are essential to get the 3D structured growth factor, into the fluid. “After the process is finished, the skin graft is used for medical purposes. SkinMedica uses the solution (containing the secreted growth factors), stabilises it and then concentrates it to produce TNS. SkinMedica is proud to say that 93.6% of TNS Recovery Complex contains pure TNS,” says Schoonees.
Natural decline
The perfect system for professional eyelash and eyebrow tinting
By using products that include growth factors, it is possible to slow the process of ageing down.
The result of the natural decline in naturally occurring growth factors is skin damage and visible signs of ageing. By using products that include growth factors, it is possible to slow the process of ageing down and, in some instances, even reverse damage that has occurred on the skin. EGF (Epidermal Growth Factors) is the most common growth factor included in cosmetic preparation. This growth factor is used for its anti-ageing properties as it is useful for the stimulation and regeneration of the skin, including collagen production. “The Dermaheal range from Lamelle includes EGF to stimulate tissue regeneration and collagen production by re-energising cellular DNA synthesis and triggering the skin’s natural ability to heal, making growth factors invaluable against premature ageing,” says Dr Bradley Wagemaker, the medical director of Lamelle research laboratories and a respected aesthetic doctor.
Growth factors in aesthetic treatments
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“SkinMedica’s growth factor serum, TNS Recovery Complex, can easily be incorporated into non-ablative skin treatment protocols like microdermabrasion, needling and skin peels. TNS Recovery Complex would be applied directly after the machine treatment, followed by a moisturiser and sun protection,” says Schoonees. R
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• • • • • • • •
medical aesthetics
56 She continues to say that SkinMedica also offers a skin treatment incorporating their TNS Hydrating Mask. This potent, professional only mask contains SkinMedica’s patented TNS growth factor blends, as well as other anti-ageing and hydrating ingredients. A 45-minute facial treatment, it incorporates the following steps: cleansing; exfoliation; serum application; mask application; massage with TNS Ceramide Treatment Cream; and home care application. “The Laserderm Aesthetic Centres recently introduced the Dermafrac Anti-Aging Facial,” says Dr Natasha Chapman. “This treatment uses micro needling to infuse high concentrations of naturally derived growth factors into the skin, which stimulates collagen production, leading to an improvement in the quality of aging skin and a reduction in fine lines and crepiness. The hand piece creates a gentle suction on the skin, bringing it into contact with thousands of micro needles that create small channels. These penetrate down to the dermal layer of the skin just below the epidermal-dermal junction – the optimum placement for the infusion of growth factors into the skin as this is where collagen producing cells, called fibroblasts, are situated. The depth is very precise, and just above the capillary and nerve ending layer in the skin. The result is a painless yet highly effective treatment with absolutely no downtime,” describes Chapman. She continues to say that Fraxel laser treatments are considered by many to be the gold standard in anti-aging treatments. “Fraxel is FDAapproved for the treatment of sun damage, texture, enlarged pores, acne scarring, pigmentation, and fine lines and wrinkles. “During a treatment, a small hand piece is passed over the face, emitting hundreds of minute laser beams
nutrient
serum
containing
high
Growth factors are concentrations of growth factors and peptides,” comments Chapman. naturally occurring proteins that are necessary Combining treatments for cellular activity, such Dr Susan Swanepoel, an aesthetic practitioner from My Face Skin as cellular growth and Aesthetics in Pretoria East, says she has found very pleasing aesthetic proliferation, and play results when she combines chemical resurfacing treatments with the use an important role in of a Dermapen incorporating growth maintaining skin health factor serum and hyaluronic acid for an in office treatment. and function. into the skin which cause precise, regular micro-injuries. This stimulates the skin to heal itself – fibroblasts are stimulated to produce more collagen, leading to a plumping of fine lines and a reduction in wrinkles and crepiness of the skin. “The benefits from Fraxel arise primarily from the healing of the micro injuries caused by the laser. After a treatment, there is a very small window period where the thousands of tiny channels, stretching deep into the tissue, are still open. Applying serums containing natural growth factors and peptides at this stage will ensure maximal penetration of these ingredients to layers, which are impossible to reach by applying a product to the skin alone. At Laserderm Sandton, we use a skin rejuvenating solution or a tissue
Professional Beauty May 2014
“This will actively provoke an accelerated form of cell regeneration,” says Swanepoel. “Growth factors together with the dermaroller create a powerhouse of anti-aging and repair. They act as natural messengers that allow communication between cells in our body. Growth factors are the control mechanism for all wound healing and cellular repair. “Topical skin care treatments that include EGF stimulate tissue regeneration and collagen production by re-energising waning cellular DNA synthesis and triggering our skin’s natural ability to heal, making it invaluable against premature aging,” concludes Wagemaker. PB
With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years.Email: karen@ spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Non-invasive Radio Frequency Technology with immediate results on minor skin lesions Indications: Vascular Lesions: Broken capillaries, Ruby points, Spider Naevi & Raised Angiomas Keratinised Lesions: Fibromas, Solar Keratosis, Skin Tags with & without stalks, Seborrheic Keratosis, Dermatosis Papulosa Nigra Sebaceous Lesions: Cholesterol Deposits, Milia, Clogged Pores, Cysts, Pimples
After
Before
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No down-time No scarring No hyper-pigmentation RUSTENBURG CAMPUS Treatments are painless TEL: 079 508 Treatments are3162 quick EMAIL: rustenburg@heliadinternational.co.za Safe on all skin types ADDRESS: 122 Kock Street, Rustenburg, 0299
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RANDBURG CAMPUS ( H/O)
To view video clips on these procedure TEL: 082 887 1503 Janine Thomson INTERNATIONAL & before andHELIA-D after pictures go to: 071 875 5348 EMAIL: clarens@heliadinternational.co.za www.lamprobe.co.za janine@lamprobe.co.za HEALTH & BEAUTY TRAINING COLLEGE
HEALTH & BEAUTY TRAINING COLLEGE
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EMAIL: randburg@heliadinternational.co.za
ADDRESS: 702 Church Street, Clarens, Orange Free HELIA-D INTERNATIONAL www.lamprobe.co.za CAMPUSES
ADDRESS: 186 Barkston drive, Blairgowrie, Randburg , 2194
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HEALTH & BEAUTY TRAINING COLLEGE BASSONIA CAMPUS
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RUSTENBURG CAMPUS
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ADDRESS: 122 Kock Street, Rustenburg, 0299 EMAIL: rustenburg@heliadinternational.co.za
ADDRESS: 2 Patrys Street, Bassonia, Johannesburg South RUSTENBURG CAMPUS
ADDRESS: 122 Kock Street, Rustenburg, 0299 TEL: 079 508 3162
HELIA-D Enrol at a Helia-D campusINTERNATIONAL for Manicures, Pedicures,2031 Waxing, Skincare and Eye treatments, Holistic Therapies that TEL: 082 887 1503 rustenburg@heliadinternational.co.za TEL: 011 789-8140 / 011 787 EMAIL: HEALTH & BEAUTY COLLEGE CAMPUSES includeTRAINING Aromatherapy, Reflexology, Hot stone, Indian Head, Thai foot massage and Lomi lomi Massage. EMAIL: clarens@heliadinternational.co. EMAIL: randburg@heliadinternational.co.za ADDRESS: 122 Kock Street, Rustenburg, 0299 RANDBURG CAMPUS ( H/O)
RANDBURG CAMPUS ( H/O)
TO BE THE BEST STUDY WITH THE BEST
RANDBURG CAMPUS (H/O) ADDRESS: 186 Barkston drive, Blairgowrie, TEL: 011 789-8140TEL: / 011 2031 / 011 787 011787 789-8140 2031, 2194 Randburg EMAIL: randburg@heliadinternational.co.za EMAIL: randburg@heliadinternational.co.za ADDRESS: 186 Barkston drive, Blairgowrie, Randburg, 2194 RANDBURG CAMPUS ( H/O) RUSTENBURG CAMPUS ADDRESS: 186TEL: Barkston drive, Blairgowrie, 011 789-8140 / 011 787 2031 TEL: 079 508 3162 Randburg , 2194 EMAIL: rustenburg@heliadinternational.co.za
EMAIL: randburg@heliadinternational.co.za
ADDRESS: 122 Kock Street, Rustenburg, 0299
BASSONIA CAMPUS
CLARENS CAMPUS
CLARENS CAMPUS
ADDRESS: 702 Church Street, Clarens, Orang TEL: 082 887 1503 state, 9707
EMAIL: clarens@heliadinternational CLARENS CAMPUS
ADDRESS: 702 Church Clarens, TEL:Street, 082 887 1503 Or state, 9707 EMAIL: bassonia@heliadinternational.co.za TEL: 011 4324675
EMAIL: clarens@heliadinternation
ADDRESS: 2 Patrys Street, Bassonia, Johannesburg South
ADDRESS: 702 Church Street, Clarens, ADDRESS: 186 Barkston drive, Blairgowrie, CLARENS CAMPUS BASSONIA CAMPUS state, 9707 Randburg , 2194 TEL: 082 887at 1503 Enrol a Helia-D campus for Manicures, Pedicures, Waxing, Skincare and Eye treatments, Holistic Therapies that EMAIL: clarens@heliadinternational.co.za TEL: Reflexology, 011 4324675 Aromatherapy, Hot stone, Indian Head, Thai foot massage and Lomi lomi Massage. ADDRESS: 702 Church Street, Clarens, Orangeinclude Free state, 9707 BASSONIA CAMPUS EMAIL: bassonia@heliadinternational.co.za TO BE THE BEST STUDY WITH THE BEST BASSONIA CAMPUS TEL: 011 4324675 TEL: 011 4324675 ADDRESS: 2 Patrys Street, Bassonia, Johannesburg South EMAIL: bassonia@heliadinternational.co.za ADDRESS: 2 Patrys Street, Bassonia, Johannesburg SouthEMAIL: bassonia@heliadinternational.co.za
ADDRESS: 2 Patrys Street, Bassonia, Johannesburg South TO BE THE BESTfor STUDY WITH THE BEST Enrol at a Helia-D campus Manicures, Pedicures, Waxing, Skincare and Eye treatments, Holistic Therapies that include Hot stone, Indian Head, Thai foot massage and Lomi lomi Massage. EnrolAromatherapy, at a Helia-D campusReflexology, for
Pedicures,for Waxing, Skincare Pedicures, Waxing, Skincare and Eye treatments, Holistic Therapies that Enrol at aManicures, Helia-D campus Manicures, and Eye treatments, HolisticTO Therapies BE THE BEST STUDY WITH THE BEST include Aromatherapy, Reflexology, Hot stone, Indian Head, Thai foot massage and Lomi lomi Massage that include Aromatherapy, Reflexology, Hot stone, Indian Head, Thai foot massage and Lomi lomi Massage.
TO BE THE BEST STUDY WITH THE BEST
product news
58
In the market Triple action r
Vitaskin employs three widely recognised techniques that create a complete working system for deep facial cleansing, reactivation of cells and anti-aging of skin. In addition to its lifting and toning programmes, an ultrasonic spatula enables tissue restoration treatments, muscle stimulation and the topical delivery of active principles into the skin. Vitaskin takes advantage of blue and red chromotherapy.
Sea smart
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Our round-up of newly launched products, equipment and innovations.
Phytomer’s Hydrasea Ultramoisturizing Polarized Water Serum is an ultra-light subtly emulsifying gel with a soft finish. This ultramoisturising radiance-boosting gel creates a sensation of freshness and lightness from the first application. This serum utilises the power of weaving algae to restructure the skin’s water reservoir.
011 486 4904
058 303 0003
Time sensitive
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Not an illusion 7 Day Lip Magic is a clear lip gloss which, after touching the skin, turns to a beautiful rosy colour that lasts the whole day. It stains the lips without transforming them. After seven days of use, the formula lightens lip discolouration while preventing further darkening. The lip gloss provides instant relief from dryness, chapping and flaking.
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011 791 4027
The Ultimate Time Solution Eyes and Lips from Thalgo comprises an age reverse complex and active molecules with lifting, anti-puffiness and anti-dark circle properties. Crow’s feet are smoothed, eyelids are lifted, puffiness and dark circles diminished. The lip contour is redefined and plumped up. A fine texture and the fragrance-free formula offers perfect safety for sensitive eyes and contact lens wearers.
011 880 3850
Professional Beauty May 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
product news
Skin tight
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Designed to revise firmness and elasticity within the skin, DMK nite firming crème is an antioxidant rich crème recommended for those whose skin is showing the effects of ageing and environmental damage. It contains proanthacyanides – super antioxidants which are 50 times more powerful than vitamin E.
011 262-6120
Repairing wrinkles R Genop Healthcare has launched Exuviance Targeted Wrinkle Repair, a revolutionary treatment that helps to smooth lines, nasolabial folds and other visible signs of ageing. Its triple boost formula combines patented CitraFill, NeoGlucosamine and Matrixyl Peptides. Together, these ingredients work to help stimulate skin’s own natural collagen and strengthen its surrounding support structure directly beneath deep lines.
011 545 9300
Professional Beauty May 2014
saahsp
60 Cidesco Section South Africa
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
SAAHSP’s first designated members The SAAHSP Designation Committee had its inaugural meeting in February 2014 where the first designations where awarded. Somatologists: Tracy Chambers; Menna Kleine; Jennifer Maclean; Elna Hagen Beauty Therapist: Audrey Coetzee
The next SAAHSP Designation Committee meeting will be held in May when the next batch of applications will be approved. Anyone wanting to apply for their designation should email proffbody@ saahsp.co.za or visit the SAAHSP website (www.saahsp.co.za).
Schools news Dr Wilkinson performing botox
Emma performing microdermabrasion
Focus on homeopathy & biopuncture Sixty people attended the SAAHSP Cape Committee’s Advanced Topic Evening on homeopathy and biopuncture on 12 March at the Encore Conference Centre, Northlink College in Panorama. It was a very informative evening where Dr Robert Durrheim shared his knowledge on these subjects. He focused on homoeopathy as a safe and therapeutic system of medicine, in which potentised and diluted medicinal substances are administered to patients in a holistic manner. He also explained that homoeopathy aims not to suppress the symptoms of the patient, but to address any underlying issues which are causing the symptoms in order to bring about cure. Biopuncture was explained as a process whereby homoeopathic medicines are injected into certain points of the body.
International Academy: Post graduate students are currently learning the challenging task of mastering the intricate skill of eyelash extensions. They also had the privilege of seeing how botox and dermal fillers are administered by the famous Dr Wilkinson.
Central University of Technology, Free State: The Faculty of Health and Environmental Sciences: Department of Health Sciences - Somatology held a team building event for first, second and third year students as part of their 2014 welcome. Students were expected to create a rickshaw from cardboard boxes, decked out with some Bollywood Bling. The challenge concluded with a race.
Isa Carstens Academy: Each year students participate in the National Annual Penguin Awareness day, which fell on 12 October 2103. The Academy donated towels and funds in support of SANCCOB and saving our natural heritage. The relationship between ISA Carstens Academy and SANCCOB is the pride and joy of each student.
Professional Beauty May 2014
Isa Carstens Academy
online at www.probeauty.co.za
hair news
61
Crowning
glory
Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.
ghd SA’s 10 years of pink Annually, ghd South Africa launches its coveted pink stylers in October as a CSI initiative to spread awareness and assist with funding for CANSA (Cancer Association of South Africa). For every pink ghd styler sold, R100 is donated to CANSA. Globally, more than R100-million has already been raised in aid of
breast cancer charities through sales of ghd pink stylers. Now in its tenth year, 2013 saw sales from ghd’s pink diamond limited edition styler adding to the figure. R147 200 in proceeds was donated by ghd for research into Breast Cancer prevention. Says Landi le Roux, marketing manager for ghd South Africa: “We
ghd SA’s Landi Le Roux and David Le Roux (right) with Richard Beer (CANSA)
have witnessed how CANSA works tirelessly to ensure cancer victims and their families are taken care of and receive the counseling they require. ghd South Africa is very privileged to contribute in some way and we thank consumers for their support.”
031 766 0320
Follicle power Hannon Hair Growth Follicle Booster is a spray-on hair growth treatment that penetrates the scalp to provide the ultimate energy food for lazy hair follicles. It helps to promote new hair growth, faster hair growth and prevents hair loss. It blocks the damaging DHT hormone which is the cause of hereditary hair loss in both men and women. 011 608 4065
Back to the ‘root’ Inoar’s Gengibre Fresh Ginger Shampoo, Conditioner and Leave-in are perfect for those who struggle with oily hair. The formula, based on the deep astringent action of ginger, contains a delicious aroma with a refreshing touch that prolongs the sensation of lightness for much longer, protecting, treating, and hydrating the hair. This dynamic trio will tame excessive oil while providing an invigorating burst of freshness, ensuring a beautiful head of hair that feels and smells extraordinarily clean.
012 686 7067
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Low maintenance styling Protective Styles are styles that require low manipulation of the hair. Lace Closure is an oblong or circle shaped hairpiece usually made of lace that is attached to a cornrow base and then secured around the perimeter to give the appearance of hair growing from your head.
011 326 4296
Professional Beauty May 2014
Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Knowledge Tenza Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: knowledge@probeauty.co.za
Colour changing candles Soy Massage, LED Candles, Floating T-lights/candles
Lea Kassner 082 810 5929 info@simpleacandles.co.za
www.simpleacandles.co.za
Sunbed Spares & Services
A simple, effective daily skin care range
Sole Importer of
A 'deeper than skin-deep' cosmeceutical product range in combination with state of the art micro needling technology, and safe superficial chemical peels Normalise the skin functions by balancing the layers in the skin Stimulates the skin to produce naturally its own collagen
www.luvite.co / info@luvite.co / 073 379 0147
MATSIMELA HOME SPA BRINGS YOU THE FINEST PRODUCTS THAT ARE A FEAST FOR THE SENSES!
www.matsimela.co.za
and
Sunbeds
Repairs to all makes of sunbeds SupplierS of: CAlTAN Tanning lotions
Tel: 083 321 9038
Skin lightening gel by SB A PROVEN SYSTEM FOR THE TREATMENT OF: • Uneven skin colour • Sun damage • Pimple marks • Hyper pigmentation • General skin brightening and lightening • Skin damage from abrasive chemicals suitable for underarm, bikini areas, elbow, knees and lips
No hydroquinone, chemicals or mercury
www.lighterskin.co.za
tel: 082 925 3772
Take advantage of this sales opportunity Feature your products and services in this space
Professional Beauty May 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Become an Internationally Certified Image Consultant Join the experts to train you in the fastest growing industry in the world.
Come to the sea -
Free accommodation and airport transfers.
CONTACT: admin@imageconsultant.co.za Office Land Line: 032 586 0286 SMS: 072 043 6528 www.imageconsultant.co.za
Monthly Short Courses & Supplies 031 564 2933 info@thenailguru.co.za www.thenailguru.co.za
online at www.probeauty.co.za
GEM-PL Crystal 512 for sale Use for permanent hair removal, removal of pigmentation/freckles, spider veins and excellent for skin rejuvenation. Price R105 000-00 neg. Training can be arranged. Contact Coleen 084 511 5091
BEAUTY ONLINE VISIT: www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty May 2014
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HOT HAIR PIECES®
The latest news and information about Professional Beauty is only a click away!
MANUFACTURERS OF ALL TYPES OF HAIR BRAIDS & HAIR EXTENSIONS TEL: 031 465 2128 CELL: 084 588 8880 • www.hothairpieces.com
Hot Hair Pieces has been supplying the hair industry for the past 8 years with a variety of Hair braids and Hair Extensions including: • 100% PREBONDED REMY HAIR • HUMAN HAIR WEAVES • SYNTHETIC HAIR WEAVES • BULKS • CLIP IN HAIR EXTENSIONS • SOFT DREDS • HUMAN HAIR OPRAH CURL • BUNS and so much more.
Simple, fast funding for small businesses. 011 217 2880 | www.merchantcapital.co.za
Hot Hair Pieces is your hair salons best kept secret. We have more than 21 years of experience in the making of hair extensions. We supply country wide and export as well. Contact us for your next order. We look forward to hearing from you soon.
BEAUTY ONLINE VISIT: www.probeauty.co.za For more information, email: sonette@probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Original Permanent Nail
Colour
Get R700 DISCOUNT on excellence training & kit if you book before the end of July Remember to take this advertisement with you when booking your training.
Bio Sculpture 速Gel, the original everlasting chip free salon treatment that cures to a strong yet flexible, glossy finish and lasts up to three weeks. The Bio Sculpture 速Gel System can be used to support and extend the nail and is available in over 165 colours.
The Autumn/Winter 2014 Nail Colour Collection
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