May 2015
www.probeauty.co.za
Cruise control Salon management software
Enticing
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Dazzling display
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Hormonal havoc Menopausal skin
DMK enzyme treatments work with the skin where cosmetic facial treatments only act on the surface.
BEFORE TREATMENT What are Enzymes? Enzymes are living substances in the body that regulate all chemical activity in the body as well as the skin. Enzymes are directly involved in the body’s metabolism, which is the process by which food is broken down and converted into energy and other elements needed for cell growth.
What is DMK Enzyme Therapy? Enzyme therapy is a series of masques containing certain enzymes that are topically applied to the skin. Since most skin conditions, including ageing, are the result of a loss of function or imbalance in the skin, these masques are designed to restore the chemical balance, normalise natural processes and strengthen the underlying structure of the skin.
DURING TREATMENT
The Benefits and Uses of DMK Enzyme Therapy Enzyme Therapy delivers the best, long-term results out of all the skin revision treatments because the effects are both natural and more permanent. By natural we are not merely referring to the ingredients used, but also to the way the enzyme treatment interacts with the skin cells and emulates the natural processes of the skin. Enzyme Therapy effectively re-educates the skin to perform just as it did when it was young. It does this by restoring optimal cellular functions, causing the appearance of your skin to improve significantly with each treatment.
It works by strengthening the facial muscles, keeping skin tissue free of toxins and impurities, and stimulating healthy blood flow and nutrients to the skin, enabling skin cells to stay alive for longer.
Enzyme Therapy treats more than just the surface of the skin, including: • • • • •
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DMK, REBUILDING SKIN, REBUILDING LIVES
362860 37
56
In this issue... Regulars
Spa Focus
5 Industry news
24 Join the club
Local and international news
51 Hair news
What’s hot and happening in the hair industry
60 Product news
All the latest launches
62 SAAHSP
The latest news from SAAHSP
13 Insider Salon/Insider Spa
Tracking the industry with stats
15 Ask the experts
Urban Bliss Day Spa
Secrets to effective interaction How selling vouchers can increase business
Professional Beauty Cape Town Show Preview
37 The oestrogen has left the building!
56 Turning back the ‘hands’ of time
Hand rejuvenation
Nails
Computerising your business
44 Beauty gets technical
52 Furnished and equipped for success
How to treat menopausal skin
42 The click of a button
How to outfit your nail salon
Spa/salon management software
47 A diamond in the rough
All your questions answered
21 The voucher revolution
Medical Aesthetics
Microdermabrasion treatment review
48 Clean sweep
16 Let’s get social!
Features 31 Show and tell
28 The concept spa
Business
Viable revenue generator – spa memberships
48
31
Focus on cleansers
22 Compiling the product dossier
What to know when breaking into the EU market ca p e tow n
42 online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty May 2015
Welcome
‘B
ut wait …. there’s more!’ That’s the common phrase used in the seemingly endless infomercials that populate our TV screens. The infomercials may be annoying but the phrase is pertinent to the upcoming Professional Beauty Cape Town Show, which will, for the first time, include a Hair Competition hosted by the EOHCB (Employers Organisation for Hairdressing, Cosmetology & Beauty), as you can read in our scintillating show preview. Blame it on the hormones! Any woman who has experienced menopause will know that the associated hormonal activity escalates the ageing of the skin, as our collagen and elastin radically depletes. This issue reveals what products and treatments should be prescribed for menopausal clients. It’s apparent that there are still salons, particularly smaller salons and home salons, in South Africa that run their business administration manually, and have not yet migrated to management software. Our special feature showcases the latest software options available, and shows how much more efficient and convenient running a business can be if you’re computerised. So much has been said about marketing businesses through social media that it’s hard to come up with something new on the subject. But that’s exactly what Philippa Abbott does in her article about the everchanging dynamic of social media. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
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Printers House of Print
Professional Beauty May 2015
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industry news
5
News
All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.
MA Convention comes to Cape Town The Professional Beauty Cape Town Show will host a MA (Medical Aesthetics) Convention on 27 and 28 June at the CTICC.
“W
e are expecting about 40 or more delegates, a cross-section of medical aesthetics practitioners, skincare therapists and doctors,” says programme director Karen Ellithorne. “Delegates will be updated about the latest trends and legislation in the industry. For instance, Dr Alek Nikolic will present a lecture on suspension sutures, while health law and ethics consultant, Ulundi Behrtel, will address very pertinent issues with regards to marketing an aesthetics practice, and cover what is allowed and not allowed according to the HPCSA (Health Professions Council of South Africa).
DMK SA scoops international award
“Behrtel’s second lecture will highlight the roles of different staff members in an aesthetic practice and detail who is allowed to do what and who would ultimately be responsible if things go wrong. I think that this lecture is very important, as there are a lot of grey areas in the industry and it is important that therapists, doctors and nurses are made aware of the risks and what can happen if things go wrong.” Medical delegates who attend the ethics lectures on both days and complete the questionnaire during Sunday’s lunch will be awarded 5 ethics points. Other speakers at the convention
Mestre’s Anesi promotion
will include Dr Paul Brandt, who will present a paper on aesthetic and anti-ageing medicine, and Dr Johan Botha, who will hold a mesotherapy workshop. There will also be talks on acoustic wave therapy, IPLs and lasers, botulinum toxin and dermal fillers. RégimA will host a peeling workshop. For more information visit www.medicalaesthetics.co.za
News in pictures
DMK International recently hosted its annual Distributor Conference at the company’s headquarters in California, USA, culminating in an international awards ceremony. DMK South Africa scooped the 2014 Sales Growth Award. Pictured are joint DMK South Africa owners – Marieta Meyer, Najma Khan and Jopie Muller.
Yolandi Mestre has been promoted to Brand Manager: Anesi Skin and Body, at Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS). Says Mestre: “I have been part of Anesi for a total of five years now and with this new opportunity, I have the privilege to help and assist other sales professionals and sub-distributors to reach their dreams and targets.”
online at www.probeauty.co.za
San Diego-based Bodyography creative director, Lori Leib, visited Johannesburg and Cape Town in March to launch the Silk Cream Compact Foundation, together with distributor Prana.
Professional Beauty May 2015
industry news
6 Melanie Jenkins, Dave Neto, Rosalie Neto and Amorica Miller
DermaFix expands
C
osmeceutical skincare company DermaFix experienced such rapid growth in 2014 that it identified the need to position a new distribution centre in the Western Cape, in Somerset West. At the helm of the new centre are Dave and Rosalie Neto, who complement
DermaFix’s Cape Town team, namely Melanie Jenkins (who has been with DermaFix since 2006), educator and business consultant Eloise Stolz, and newest team member Amorica Miller. Meanwhile, DermaFix Johannesburg welcomes Victoria Jones to the team.
New appointment at Camdeboo Spa
News in brief
■ Eksteen’s decade: Radiant Healthcare congratulates Melissa Eksteen on her 10 years of employment and for being a real asset to the company. ■ New EyeSlices distributor: SDV Pharmaceuticals is proud to announce that it is now the official distributor for EyeSlices South Africa, excluding the Western Cape. ■ RégimA moves offices: RégimA has moved to its new head office and training facility at 50 Van Buuren Road, Bedfordview. The new contact number is 011 615 2869.
Lina Phetla has been appointed manager of Camdeboo Spa at Irene Country Lodge. Thirty-two-year-old Phetla has been in the beauty and spa business for 10 years and has been tasked with expanding Camdeboo Spa and refreshing its offering.
■ Kustie triumphs in China: The Kustie Flower Petals Shower & Bath Gel has won the 2015 Cosmetic Newspaper’s China Good Product Award in Mainland China.
MatsiMela opens new store MatsiMela Home Spa opened its 8th store on 7 March at the En Style Centre in Parys. Mandie Kleynhans is the franchisee. Commenting on why Parys was identified as a viable location, MatsiMela’s Emmy Stoltz says: “Parys is always abuzz with people visiting the town over weekends and has an incredible local community. The town is eclectic and has an amazing vibe, all of which fits MatsiMela’s consumer category.” The area of the new store is 24
■ Dermalogica’s 4th Concept Store opens: On 24 April Dermalogica launched its Woodlands Concept Store, located in the Woodlands Boulevard Shopping Centre in Pretoria.
square metres. Other MatsiMela stores are situated at Deco Park, Broadacres, Bedford Centre, Hazyview, White River, Mowana Indaba Hotel and Klerksdorp.
Professional Beauty May 2015
■ Bio-Therapeutic honoured: The BT-Cocktail has won the 2015 Dermascope Aestheticians’ Choice Award as the most forward-thinking, cutting-edge management product range for 2015.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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industry news
9
Farewell to Avril Professional Beauty is sad to report on the passing of Avril ZanderThal, a true pioneer of the South African spa industry. Zander-Thal passed away on 28 March in Johannesburg, following a long illness.
B
orn on 16 September 1941 in Vereeniging, Zander-Thal was a graphic designer before she studied health and beauty therapy. Her experience in the spa industry was accumulated over many years of training and studying in South Africa, the US and England. Zander-Thal is credited with introducing aromatherapy, reflexology, Moor therapy and kinesiology to South Africa, among other healthoriented concepts. While resident in the US, she
became involved in developing health spas at hotels. Once back in South Africa, Zander-Thal noticed a gap in the industry as there were no spas at hotels, only a few health hydros. She began to pioneer the spa industry, even designing hydrotherapy equipment, as there was none in the country at the time. Zander-Thal’s first contract was to build a standalone spa for the Fancourt Golf Estate. Sun International then asked her to create all their spas, including those
Time for a ‘Holiday’ The Holiday line of waxes, manufactured in Italy over the past 30 years, is now available in South Africa. Says Tracy Barkhan, who holds the sole distributorship for Holiday in South Africa: “Holiday has perfected its waxes to accommodate from the most sensitive of skins to the toughest of hair. Their waxes ensure complete removal of hair, with no sticky residue left behind. “We were looking
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for an excellent range of depilation products to complement the items sold by my company, Acu-Sol. After a lot of research we identified Holiday and approached them. We had Holiday products sampled by a local beautician and Camelot Cape Town, as well as by someone in Durban who was particularly interested in the sugar pastes. “Camelot has raved about our products and motivated for us to be their supplier with head office. This was approved last month and we have supplied their first order,” she notes. Barkhan believes that what makes Holiday so unique is its extensive range. “We have a product called Elastique, which comes in a tin and is more user-friendly than block wax. The Holiday strip wax sheets have had very positive reviews and are totally different to anything people have used here previously.”
at Table Bay Hotel, Royal Swazi Sun and Zimbali Forest Lodge. She also worked on Octavia’s Sensorium Spa and the Fordoun Spa & Hotel.
News in pictures
A&I Importers’ MD Ayesha Rajah, and Dermalogica’s senior training specialist, Unine van Rooyen, were the speakers at the recent Professional Beauty Network Breakfast held at Mike’s Kitchen Bryanston in Johannesburg. Over 50 people attended the event.
Professional Beauty May 2015
industry news
10
South African recruited for Saudi spa
S
unette van der Merwe, formerly manageress of the Equinox Spa at the Cape Royale Hotel, has been appointed spa manager at the Luthan Hotel & Spa in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. Luthan is owned by Saudi royals. Van der Merwe has worked in the hospitality and spa industry for more than 15 years. “I have acquired international experience in management, operations and training at luxury villas, resort spas and 5-star establishments in France, Maldives and Cape Town. “My appointment at Luthan Spa
Luthan Hotel & Spa
is yet another adventure to bless my career with such a phenomenal and professional holistic environment.” Van der Merwe’s interest in wanting to work in the Middle East was sparked by a friend, Liezel Els, who is currently in Qatar. She was alerted to the Luthan vacancy by
Sunette van der Merwe
Janet Bradford of recruitment agency, Active Connection. Prior to the Equinox Spa, Van der Merwe worked at the Sorbet Spa in Constantia Cape Town, and as training manager at the Duniye Spa in Maldives.
A ‘Radiant’ workshop
Black Pearl gains traction
Radiant Healthcare and AAMSSA (Aesthetic & AntiAgeing Medicine Society of South Africa) held a twoday advanced body contouring training workshop in Midrand, at the Accolades Boutique venue. Guest speakers were Dr Gys du Plessis, Dr Deon Weyers, Hamish McNair, clinical training manager from Syneron, Dr Adri Hofmeister and André Burger. Technologies under discussion were Syneron elos, radio frequency technology, ultrasound lipolysis for lipo-sculpture, cryotherapy and pressotechnology.
Luxury skincare brand Black Pearl, introduced to the South African professional market last year, can now be found at 14 different stockists in South Africa, ranging from a highend pharmacy through to an aesthetics doctor to salons and spas. The spas at the Marina Hotel in Hermanus and Delaire Graff in Stellenbosch, as well as Crystal Clear, Zuri Wellness and Salon Aesthete in Johannesburg, have taken on Black Pearl. Theresa Altshuler of Black Pearl (Pty) Ltd stresses that range’s unique feature is its complex, which includes black pearl powder composed of 18 amino acids, zinc, selenium, titanium and protein. “The powder is used for skin nourishment, regeneration and softening,” explains Altshuler. “It also aids in detoxification and with removal of spots and gives the skin an instant
Professional Beauty May 2015
shine. Other minerals found in the range are magnesium, calcium, bromide, iron, sulphur and strontium.” Black Pearl’s Michelle Roberts adds: “Theresa and I are all about being creative and developing bespoke treatments for our clients. At Crystal Clear, for example, we’ve created a collagen facial designed by myself in consultation with Candice Lavoie and Verity Smart.” Black Pearl will exhibit at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show at the end of August.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
For more information contact: Marine Spa Distributors • 011 880 3440 / 3851 • sales@marinespadistributors.co.za
business trends
13
Insider
Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Cape Town, East London and Port Elizabeth to track business in March 2015.
Insider Spa
The month in numbers Insider Salon The good news is that most of you had a successful March, although retail sales PERCENTAGE weren’t as successful as treatment OF CLIENTS business during the month. WHO REBOOKED We asked if any of you have plans to increase staff numbers in 2015 and the majority (81%) answered in the negative. Sixty percent of salons polled update their social media pages (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, etc) frequently – as in weekly, if not daily – while 27% update every few months. AVERAGE TREATMENT Thirteen percent of you said that ROOM although you would really like to OCCUPANCY utilise social media for marketing,
69%
you just don’t have the time. In terms of client demographics 27% said their salons are attracting younger clients – from high school kids to 23, while 46% of you are expecting more growth in the over 30 age group.
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2015 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2014?
75
% BETTER
6
74%
34%
78 11
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MARCH 2015 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2014?
56
% BETTER
6
% SAME
19
38 % WORSE
online at www.probeauty.co.za
PERCENTAGE OF CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2015 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2014?
% BETTER
% SAME
% WORSE
March panned out well for the spa industry with 78% of respondents reporting an increase in treatment business over the same time last year. The percentage of spas reporting a drop in retail business was relatively high though, at 44%. It appears that spas are more active in terms of updating their social media regularly than salons, with one spa reporting that it has a dedicated marketing team devoted to social media. Sixty-seven percent of you update either daily or several times a week, 22% update weekly and 11% update monthly. Only 11% of you said that you planned to increase your staff complement in 2015, which bodes ill for graduates seeking work. Twenty-two percent of respondents expect to see an increase in male clientele in the future, while several spas are expecting to see a growth in corporate and middle aged clients.
% SAME
55
11
% BETTER
% WORSE
1
% SAME
44
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
% WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MARCH 2015 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2014?
61%
Professional Beauty May 2015
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business tips
15
Ask the experts Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
What are the benefits of halotherapy (salt therapy) and what sort of halotherapy facilities are found in spas?
Do I need both synthetic and natural hair make-up brushes in my kit?
W
e always suggest that make-up artists keep both synthetic and natural brushes in their kit. While natural hair brushes hold and transfer pigments like eyeshadow better than synthetic brushes, we often use synthetic brushes for applying concealer. Large brushes, like powder and blusher brushes, in natural hair may also be too expensive for make-up artists who are just starting out, and, in order to have these brushes available (they are a requirement), there is no problem with having them made of synthetic hair. In the case of people who are concerned about cruelty to animals, it needs to be noted that they should check whether the natural brushes they have are made from animals that are shorn for their hair.
Leigh Richardson has been working for Kryolan for 25 years and has experience in the make-up field, from beauty to special effects. Her speciality is camouflage make-up.
S
alt therapy or halotherapy chambers are slowly but surely finding their way into South African spas. Wearing a robe and booties, one comfortably sinks into a chair in the chamber to relax and breathe in the salt air. The walls and ceilings are salt-coated, and salt grains are scattered a few inches deep on the floor. The smell of the salt in the room reminds one of being close to the ocean, and, after a while, you can even taste the salt on your lips. Salt rooms or chambers are designed to provide a relaxing and unusual experience. Children are allowed to sit on the salt floor and play, like in a sandpit. Some chambers have cave-like decor, complete with salt-coated stalactites It is believed that spending time in a salt room can assist in improving skin conditions, such as psoriasis and eczema. Because salt helps to draw water into airways, thus thinning mucus and improving the function of cilia (the small hairs that help move mucus out of the lungs), it is said to greatly improve a range of respiratory ailments, such as colds, asthma, allergies and bronchitis.
Mimmie Lancaster has been involved in the health, skincare and spa industry for more than 28 years. She consults to and provides training for top spas around the country.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty May 2015
business tips
16
Let’s get social! The social media arena is a fast-changing space that requires active interaction and constant development in order to be an effective marketing tool for spas and salons, writes Philippa Abbott.
W
hen asked to write an article on social media I went back to various blogs and articles I wrote a few years ago to get some inspiration. I subsequently realised just how much more dynamic you have to be nowadays to partake in, and perform well on, social media. In two short years the degree of participation has changed so much and the importance of this participation is above and beyond anything anyone could have ever imagined. For several years now ‘social media’ has been the buzz word term in the marketing world. Before the many complexities came into the mix it was always said that social media was free and everyone can use it. But the truth is that it’s not really free and not any old person can use it effectively. You need the right staff member to run it and a whole lot of inspiration. It will cost you time and constant effort to maintain. Monthly internet and design costs, as well as the devices you require, have to be thought of before you embark on this exciting journey. So yes, Facebook and Twitter may not send you an account at the end of every month, but without – and let me emphasise this – a
dedicated staff member, a solid strategy and a good deal of well-managed time you might as well not even bother. But this is a space in which you HAVE to be playing if you want to keep up with the crowd.
Starting point So where do you start, and how do you ensure that you make your mark? Firstly, define your business objectives and what you want social media to do for you. Is it: • Customer acquisition? • Brand awareness? • Customer retention and community building? • Increased sales? Remember to have clear, measureable objectives. Secondly, decide who your target audience is. There aren’t many people who are not using social media any more. A couple years ago our parents – the 60-somethings – were all, ‘What’s this Facebook nonsense?’ Now the majority of the posts on my newsfeed are my folk’s selfies as they trot the globe. The older generation has become more tech-savvy R
Professional Beauty May 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
17
business tips
18 When creating content for your campaigns you need to remember this recipe: • Create • Engage • Analyse • Optimise
and these are some of our key customers. Choose the correct channels for your audience – never more than three social media platforms to begin with. Outline what you are going to use each one for and stick to it. Do not veer off course because you will lose direction. Thirdly, you need to set goals/ targets. Make sure these are achievable and not cast in stone. You need to be able to gauge if your tactics are working and, if not, change them and try something else. Goals could be anything like: • 10% more customers through the spa per month • More shares / retweets in a month • More likes on my page / followers on Twitter in a certain timeframe • Increase in sales in an allocated period of time. Next you need to plan how you are going to achieve these goals. Allocate specific times and timeframes for when you will be posting and sharing etc. Never lose sight of your goals and remember that a spa cannot be run on social media alone.
Schedule Now that you have clear objectives, your target market is identified and you have goals, you need to plan and create a content schedule. The first mistake companies make with social media is they just start willy-nilly posting
and sharing irrelevant content all over the show with no clear goal in mind. They jump onto a plethora of sites and create profiles on ALL of them. We are bombarded with masses of posts from many platforms asking for likes, shares and retweets, but then, nothing….. Create campaigns for each month and make sure that you carry the campaign message through everything that you post. Pretty pictures with a monthly promotion are no longer good enough to get you through. With 100s of millions of users on Facebook at any given time you have to make sure that you are engaging constantly so that your post is seen by your followers. When creating content for your campaigns you need to remember this recipe: Create – Engage – Analyse – Optimise Create meaningful content that is relevant and valuable. Engage with your identified customers; ensure that you appeal to them and that you encourage them to participate with you and your conversations. Do not use social media as a platform for hard sell and nothing else – you will not get the desired outcome you are looking for. Analyse every campaign against your goals and targets. Have you achieved what you set out to do? If not, change what you are doing and try another tactic until you arrive at the desired outcome. Optimise all the time, never stay stagnant and do not keep doing the same old thing.
Professional Beauty May 2015
Content I cannot emphasise the importance of quality content. The staff member who is responsible for your social media must be informed and knowledgeable. They must engage with companies and key people in the industry so that they create content customers want to hear about. No one will listen to an uninformed person babbling on about nonsense. Give them the tools and the time to create a solid and interesting plan. If you do not have the right staff member or the time to do this yourself; do not despair. There are great companies out there that can really assist you in this journey and will not cost you an arm and leg. PB
Philippa Abbott is the owner of Spa Sense Consultants. A qualified somatologist and advanced make-up artist, Abbott has worked for two of the UK’s leading spa brands and spent five and a half years with the Spas of Distinction Group in South Africa as part of the management team.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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Your time to
shine
This is the most prestigious and established awards ceremony for the beauty, spa and nail industry in South Africa, acknowledging those who have made a real difference to the industry.
Enter today! You have what it takes to WIN! What are you waiting for?
• Therapist of the Year • Salon of the Year (3 rooms or less) • Salon of the Year (4 rooms or more) • Day Spa of the Year • Nail Salon of the Year • Spa/Salon Manager of the Year • Hotel/Resort Spa of the Year • Aesthetic Clinic of the Year
The deadline for all entries is 24 April 2015 EntEr onlinE by simply visiting
www.probeauty.co.za and clicking on the ‘Awards’ tab.
Calgel
The winners will be announced at the Professional Beauty Gala Dinner on 30 August 2015.
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The voucher revolution For a salon or spa, selling vouchers is an easy way to increase your client base and sales, writes Debbie Merdjan.
T
here is nothing more special than receiving a magnificent bunch of flowers for a gift, especially if they’re peonies. But a very close second (or maybe even better and definitely longer-lasting) is receiving a gift card or voucher for a beauty experience, from a beautiful spa, in beautiful packaging. Vouchers are an effortless way to grow your top line and to increase the client’s rand value spend. I know that when I am given a voucher, I can’t wait to go and treat myself. I almost always spend more than the card value, and very often spend more than I would have ever thought about spending in the first place. Selling vouchers is a no brainer. Look at the following statistics (I know that I am always writing about the importance of statistics but it’s because they tell their own story): • 41% of customers trying a new business do so because they received a gift card. • More than half of these customers - 55% - become repeat customers. • 7 out of 10 gift-card redeemers spend more than what is on the card. Research also shows that giving gifts of an ‘experience’ compared to a ‘material gift’ leads to more happiness. This is important information for us and we should capitalise on it. A happy customer generates positive brand value and in turn
will generate awareness and attract prospective customers.* Create a gift voucher or card that does not limit the options and has different price ranges. Make it simple and easy to use, don’t overwhelm the customer, and have contacts / instructions that are easy to follow. Mostly, make the experience irresistible. Maximise on life events without getting too cheesy. Voucher sales will
always increase over special events - Christmas, Birthdays, Mother’s Day. Your sales can increase hugely if you reward or incentivise your staff. Teach them to ask that all important question: ‘Would you like to buy a gift card today?’ Part of the fun too, of receiving a special gift, is the unwrapping of it. What could be inside, you wonder, as you gently (or not so gently) open the paper or envelope? So make the wrapping gorgeous, exciting, and if possible, personal. Personalised gifts always make the receiver feel special. Market your gift vouchers / cards well and discreetly, but not too discreetly. You want people to know about them. Position the vouchers close to the till-point at reception or in the change-room or relaxation room. Keep it classy. And always add a voucher sales brochure with the card - you may well gain a life-long client. So, see you next time. I am off to claim my own gift card and have a magnificent treatment! PB * Research by Caprariello and Reis
business tips
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Compiling the product dossier Continuing our series on what to know when breaking into the EU cosmetic market, Tadej Feregotto explains the product information file that has to be compiled for each cosmetic product.
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he contents of the product information file are described in article 11, annexe I of the EU regulations. As per the regulations, the product information file has to contain the following information and data: a description of the cosmetic product; cosmetic product safety report (CPSR), the contents of which are described in annexe I; a description of the method of manufacturing and a statement on compliance with good manufacturing practice (standard ISO 22716); where justified a proof of the effect claimed for the cosmetic product; and any data on animal testing. The product information file should also contain product labelling. The cosmetic product safety report is certainly the most important part of the product information file, as this is the part that contains information about the product itself. The cosmetic product safety report is further divided into two parts: part A – cosmetic product safety information, and part B – cosmetic product safety report. Part A contains the specifications of the raw materials, finished product and packaging of the product, while part B provides the assessment of these specifications and tests. The safety assessment concludes whether the product is safe and in conformity with the regulations or not and provides reasoning that led to such a conclusion. It may list any precautions for use that have to appear on the label, and it includes the assessor’s credentials and their approval. Not everyone can perform the cosmetic product safety assessment. That person should, of course, be
knowledgeable about the EU cosmetics regulations, but the regulations also pose some additional requirements. It says that the safety assessment has to be carried out by a person in possession of a diploma or other evidence of formal qualifications awarded on completion of a university course of theoretical and practical study in pharmacy, toxicology, medicine or a similar discipline, from the EU, or a course recognised as equivalent in the EU. The product information file has to be kept by the responsible person at one single address within the EU (at the address specified on the label) and readily accessible in electronic or other format to the competent authority of the EU member state where the responsible person is established. The product information file has to be available in a language that the local competent authority understands (usually the local language of the country where the responsible person is established and English), and it has to be kept for 10 years after the last batch of the product has been placed on the market.PB
Tadej Feregotto is CEO of CE.way Regulatory Consultants Ltd., a company that specialises in EU regulatory consulting for cosmetic products.
Professional Beauty May 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
24
Join the club Offering a membership scheme in your spa is a great revenue opportunity that, if executed properly, is bound to reap benefits, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.
M
y salon/spa business is too small to offer memberships! Memberships are just a lot of admin! Memberships don’t work! Sound familiar? Actually, memberships can produce the highest turnover in your business, and can secure loyalty from your clients, as well as bring new clients, if you follow a few simple guidelines. Start by sitting down for a coffee meeting with your top 10 or 20 customers and ask them to be a part of the planning of this new drive in your business. Ask them what they would want out of a membership and what would drive them to join a membership. Remember that, with a membership, the member needs to pay a fee, be it annual or monthly, and in return they need to get something back. The next step is to spend lots of time on the planning and execution of your membership. Plan every step of the way, including how to recruit members. For example, use your front desk staff to tell existing clients about the membership programme and book
an appointment to hear more about it, or use your therapists to plant the seed to their client about the excellent benefits of becoming a member. You need to plan who is going to physically run the membership division, as it is a full-time position within the business. Furthermore, you need to outline this person’s tasks – from speaking to clients and selling the memberships, to compiling and sending out newsletters, to the collection of fees, to the social media driving of this programme.
Launching the programme Plan how you will launch your member programme, right down to the details of the actual membership form and electronic communication. Give the member programme a name with meaning. Most people use their spa or salon name in the name of their programme, but remember that a name which has meaning to the person to whom it is targeted has much more power. Ensure that you come up with a proper name and logo for your programme.
Professional Beauty May 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
25 Don’t forget that a member benefit is to have priority over the regular client, so don’t restrict members to specific times and days, rather give them priority as they are paying you for this privilege.
over 60% of the gym
Perception The success of your membership programme is based on the perception the consumer has of the value they are getting. Let’s quickly refer to a membership we all know too well – the gym membership. How it works is really simple – you pay a monthly fee to use the gym facilities, which everyone should be using to be healthy and increase their longevity. In reality,
memberships sold are not used, meaning that there is not enough value to drive the person to make use of the gym. I feel that for salon/spa membership programmes to be successful there has to be huge perceived value in the eyes of the client. Don’t forget that
salon or spa memberships are not really common, and if any consumers have been exposed to memberships they will quickly tell you that their experience of these memberships has not been fantastic.
What’s in it? Memberships are all about what’s in it for the member and not what’s in it for my business. If you are going to launch a membership thinking that you will make huge money because your R
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spa focus
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Special treatment • Always ensure that members have preferential booking times. A member always comes first. • If you can, offer members a pick-up and dropoff service, so they don’t even need to drive themselves to your salon/spa. • Have a specific member check-in and check-out area. Make them feel special. • Offer members different gowns and slippers that make them stand out – more luxurious gowns with ‘member’ embroidered on it. • Offer members the option of having retail products delivered to their door if they don’t buy on site. • Offer gift vouchers as gifting ideas delivered to the recipient. • Issue member newsletters where you encourage feedback and testimonials and run specific member competitions. • Host member-only talks and wellness days. I have a very close friend who is a Porsche owner and I absolutely love their member programme. They get together and go for beautiful scenic drives and then stop for lunches. Hold two, special memberonly events every year where you allow members to bring a friend. Drive memberships at these events, always remembering that the member takes priority. • Plan and start a social media campaign immediately and ensure that interaction happens on these platforms. You have to drive this – there is no automatic option for social media. The more you put in, the more you will get out.
clients won’t use their membership in full and you will score, then you are in it for the wrong reasons. Be careful of your intentions, as only true and honourable intentions will deliver longterm sustainable results and an excellent reputation. Don’t forget that a member benefit is to have priority over the regular client, so don’t restrict members to specific times and days, rather give them priority as they are paying you for this privilege. The best part of what is in the membership for the client is de-stressing in a very different environment to a gym. De-stressing is all about relaxation and releasing tons of endorphins – this alone is priceless. In today’s rushed and very fast environment, relaxation is almost a luxury. It need not be, and it is certainly not, with a spa or salon membership. Offering your clients a priority pass to the de-stress zone of your business is almost a given when planning your member benefits. Calmness and serenity are quite scarce these days. Think about what we are exposed to every single day from the second we wake: noise, music, pollution, traffic, people, talking and so the list goes on. A spa/salon membership offers calmness and serenity instantly the second you walk through the doors.
Membership options I suggest three options of memberships. Remember that not everyone can afford the same prices, but most people like to belong and that is what a membership is about, a sense of belonging with rewards. So work out three different levels of membership and be clear on what the benefits of each are. Have an upgrade option for those who buy into a smaller membership and love it so much and want to upgrade. Have a payment plan for your memberships. Payment upfront today is rare. Don’t forget what you want to get out of a membership programme at the end of the day. You want happy returning clients who talk about your business to everyone they meet. That should be your ultimate goal. PB
Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.
Professional Beauty May 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
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The concept spa
W
ith a name like Urban Bliss, it is no surprise to find that the spa’s décor is decidedly city-like, featuring a variety of textures such as I-beams, red brick walls, cemcrete flooring and beige
colour tones. Owner Ayesha Rajah specifically wanted to create an urban-loft, city feel in the spa. “In the midst of this urban-esque setting we simultaneously wanted to provide a tranquil and relaxing environment for our guests,” she says. “We’ve designed the spa’s treatment rooms to emulate well-known cities of the world, and have incorporated music representing each city. Clients are in control of which genre they choose to listen to.” Unusual décor aside, uppermost in Rajah’s mind was to create a spa concept that goes beyond the traditional approach, offering a truly bespoke and integrated wellness experience She continues: “Traditional day spas are changing globally. In order for spas to thrive they need to differentiate themselves, state their unique selling points and have a clear concept. Spas can no longer take the cookie cutter approach that worked in the early 2000s, as consumer
Photography: Ursula Wong
Situated at 85 Barry Hertzog Avenue in Emmarentia, Johannesburg, the recently opened Urban Bliss Day Spa offers clients a unique refuge from the stresses of daily life, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
Professional Beauty May 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
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demands have changed. Consumers are savvy, more educated and looking for individualistic experiences, rather than stand-alone treatments or generic services. Spas need to bear in mind that consumers now demand to know ‘what’s in it for them’. “Therefore we have taken the urban lifestyle into consideration and have created a sanctuary that offers integrated services, such as spa services and facilities, combining wellness treatments, a hair salon, Pilates and yoga sessions, laser hair removal and aesthetics treatments.” Rajah stresses that Urban Bliss strives to be at the forefront of integrating technology into a spa by using innovative systems, thus eliminating its carbon footprint. “As such we have gone paperless by using a tablet-based system for all consultation cards, treatment menus, marketing and retail recommendation and point of sale,” she adds.
Motivation
massage that doesn’t leave the client feeling sore the next day,” comments Rajah. “We combine massage with the use of sound therapy – specifically the sound of rain using rain sticks – to allow the client to connect with nature.” Commenting on the spa’s brand offerings, Rajah says: “In keeping with our aim to achieve holistic wellness, we wanted to incorporate the healing powers of the ocean into the spa’s treatments. Phytomer was our first choice; its Sea Water Massage and Self Heating Mud have proven results to reduce stress. “We required a diverse offering of brands in order to cater to clients’ individual needs. In addition we also required result-driven brands that are cost-effective; hence we opted for Skin Doctors and Priori.” Urban Bliss Day Spa commenced operations in December last year, with the official launch held on 27 March. PB
Urban Bliss Day Spa at a glance Owner: Ayesha Rajah Size: 170 square metres Number of full-time therapists: 4 Number of treatment rooms: 4 (including a couple’s room) Hydro facilities: Steam room, swimming pool and multiple jet body shower Brands: Phytomer, Guinot, Skin Doctors, Priori, Little Berry, IBD, Kuene
Ever since she stepped away from her Hyde Park beauty salon after 15 years of operation, Rajah has been under pressure from ex-clients to accommodate them in some way “I also found that the demands on professionals, especially women, are extremely high in business and they are seeking an escape. There is a huge shift for holistic wellness in the corporate world,” she comments. This trend was the inspiration for the spa’s signature treatment – the Casablanca Massage. “This is a relaxing, de-spasm
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty May 2015
CA P E TOW N
Professional Beauty Cape Town
31
Show and tell
cape town
It’s time for the Cape beauty industry to put on their glad rags and make their way to the CTICC on 28 and 29 June for the 2015 Professional Beauty Cape Town Expo.
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his year’s show promises to be bigger and better than ever before. Here is a tantalising sneak peek at what to expect. APS will demonstrate to salonowners how offering a Studex ear piercing service can increase both income and foot traffic into their business. Studex systems are very easy to use, extremely hygienic and can be used for belly and nose piercing, as well as for ear piercing. A full Studex starter kit will be available at the show for R1200. There will also be an additional 5% discount for all orders placed by existing customers at the show. Discover Babor’s latest salon concept for your professional beauty business. Find out why over 150 partners have already opened a Babor Beauty Spa and what makes them so profitable. Beauty Tech's aim is to offer beauty therapists the best in equipment, services and support. The company supplies the following: Diamond + Microdermabrasion, Skin scrubber,
Lasers, Combo machines, G5, Skin scanners etc. Bio Sculpture Gel, inventor of the world’s first soak-off gel and first colour gel, continues to create new colour ranges and exclusive manicure, pedicure and spa products, combined with innovative accessories. Caribbean Tan, the first and still the most popular professional spray
tanning brand in South Africa, will showcase the new spray tan machines and portable tent. New on the South African market is Italy’s top brand of depilation waxes and facial products, Holiday. Dermacare Distributors also offers hygiene solutions and beauty salon consumables. Visit their stand for a 15% discount off salon prices. Ebony Braids & Hair Pieces is a supplier of premium quality hair. They supply Brazilian Extensions in straight, wavy and curly, as well as Human Hair Wigs. 10% off on any purchase made at the show. Elemis will reveal a new generation of facials – seven highly effective, super-charged facial treatments that target specific skin needs for uncompromising results and client experience. The Elemis team will conduct demonstrations on the stand. R
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty May 2015
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ESP Salon & Spa cape town Software offers affordable software and support for everyone from a home salon to the most sophisticated spa or group. ESP Software gives you the opportunity to create a professional as well as personal environment for your clients. With ESP’s modular philosophy you can grow your software as you grow your business, from sales to balance sheet and everything in between. Show specials: 15% discount on Evolve Xpress; 25% discount on Evolve Professional or 10% discount on any additional module(s) purchased. A discount cannot be used in conjunction with any other ESP Discount. The offer is not transferable and cannot be used for any ESP Services. Graftobian will offer a 25% off special at the show. Its products include theatre, airbrush, Moulage, special effects and much more. Makeup cases for only R650 and an 18-piece PRO brush set for only R399. Lash.Lash/ Eléni South Africa will be launching Eléni Skincare SA and Lash.Lash. Eléni contains liposomal technology, while Lash.Lash specialises in new flat lashes, 2D, 3D and 5D lashes and training. Every year, 200 million Himalaya products enter the homes of consumers around the world. With a range of over 300 healthcare and personal care products, including brands like Liv.52, Cystone, Bonnisan and Neem. Himalaya touches the lives of millions of customers worldwide, giving them products that help them lead healthier, enriched lives.
The iKhokha card reader is the ideal solution for salonand spa-owners who are tired of paying high fees for card facilities and of chasing EFTs. Visitors to the iKhokha stand can take advantage of the special show offer. R100 off each order at the show. Lilian Terry International – creators of homeopathic aromatherapy – will offer a 10% off show special. They will also be showcasing their LT FlexyCups, and visitors to the stand can experience their facial gels and toners, as well as their massage oil complexes. Luscious Lashes International – invites show visitors to celebrate its 10th anniversary by gaining access to discounted eyelash extension courses and products. The company’s goal is to produce the most successful, highly skilled, and safety-orientated eyelash technicians in the industry. Training centres are situated in Cape Town, Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Garden Route and Mpumalanga. All trainers have international certification in Classic and/or Volume extensions. Book a Luscious Lashes International training course at the show and receive the Anniversary Kit that includes two types of adhesive and eight different lash lengths and curls, as well
Professional Beauty May 2015
as training, for only R4500. Qualified therapists can get up to 25% off selected products purchased at the Expo. Make-Up Designory (MUD) proudly introduces its quality line of products created with the insight and expertise of professional make-up artists. All of the make-up and tools go through a rigorous testing process in challenging, real-world situations, from the harsh conditions of a remote film location to the bright lights of Broadway. Get 25% of on all MUD products at the show. Nailsforu will be offering massive discounts off its full range of awardwinning products. Radiant Healthcare, established in 2004, is committed to becoming the country’s leading aesthetic and medical equipment distributor of choice, providing the latest medical equipment and accessories in the quickest, simplest and most convenient way to their valued clients. Service is an attitude that extends throughout the company, which is a distributor of Syneron, Cocoon medical, GSD and Ecleris. Receive 10% discount on all equipment purchased at the show. R
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty Cape Town
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ca p e tow n Salon Care The Zone, a new cuttingwill re-launch the edge skin treatment range from Advanced range RégimA, utilises combinations of (25% discount). They world-first, advanced technology will also demonstrate for maximum anti-ageing. RégimA's the Anti-Oxidant Alginate Peel-off Power Peels create perfect equilibrium Masque. Visitors to the stand will get by combining six natural acids plus 10% off all other products in the range. much more. 10% Discount on orders Anyone who spends over R1000 placed at the show. on Salon Care products will receive RevitaLash/UC Wrap is proud to a complimentary Marilyn Monroe introduce ReGenesis, part of the shopper. RevitaLash family of products. For
the first time, the company will have an entire system devoted to targeting fine and thinning hair.
The Spa Warehouse will showcase its custom-made spa massage beds and trolleys, its new spa brand,
Cashmere & Co, Ambience Solutions spa music and the Melinda wax range and wax equipment. Spraytan is an importer and distributor of world-class professional sunless tanning equipment and solutions. The company is passionate about the healthy way to tan and about training salon staff in the correct spray tanning method. Training is included in the price of all spray tanning systems. The professional tanning solution and full Spraytan kits will be available at the show price of only R6600. PB
Hair competition For the first time, the EOHCB (Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing, Cosmetology and Beauty) will host a hairdressing championship alongside the Professional Beauty Cape Town Show.
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he Western Cape Hairdressing Championship runs on Sunday, 28 June in Hall 1 at the Cape Town International Convention Centre. Categories are:
• 1st Year Students – No Trade Test – Ladies Consumer Fashion Day Style – Blow Dry (40 minutes) • Senior Stylists – Ladies Fashionable Cut, Colour and Style (35 minutes) • Junior Stylists – Gents Cut, Colour & Style (Under 25 with no Trade Test) (30 minutes) • Senior Stylists – Gents Cut, Colour & Style (25 minutes) • Junior Stylists – Ladies Fashionable Cut, Colour & Style (Stylists under age 25 – without Trade Test) (35 min) • Afro Fashionable Cut & Style (30 minutes) • Open Bridal – Anyone may enter – Caucasian & Afro (30 minutes) • Open Gents High Fashion – Total Look (5 minutes) • Ladies Total Look – Open to everyone – Total Look (Street Fashion Female Afro or Caucasian Model only. Each competitor and their model/s must register for Professional Beauty. To pre-register log onto www.probeauty.co.za.
Professional Beauty May 2015
For more information email les.maree@yahoo.com or log on to www.eohcb.co.za
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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menopause maze
37
The
oestrogen
has left the building!
Technically speaking, anyone over the age of 25 has ageing skin, as that is when cell regeneration begins to decelerate. But, once a women reaches menopause, ageing skin takes on a whole new dimension, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
D
uring menopause, the hormonal cascade starts, leaving the skin and body in various states of inflammation, according to Danné Montague-King, founder of the DMK paramedical
skincare range. “A loss of oestrogen and an increase of testosterone leaves skin more aged, thinner and with some secondary male characteristics,” he continues. “Skin can also appear coarser and, in some cases, redder. “At DMK we don’t not believe in anti-ageing, because nothing will stop the ageing process. Rather, we believe in age management. If someone aged between 25 and 30 starts skin revision then the hormonal cascade effects are slowed down. And, if they alter their lifestyle, diet and exercise programmes, they will not suffer the effects of menopause as much as those who don’t.” Montague-King notes that EFAs (Essential Fatty Acid) have prostaglandins that minimise the hormonal flux very well and keep the matrix of the skin bouncy and turgid.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Oil spill The International Dermal Institute (Dermalogica) adds that menopause can result in oily skin. “During menopause, as oestrogen levels decrease, testosterone, which is produced by the adrenal glands, is no longer masked in the woman’s body. Testosterone reveals itself by stimulating sebaceous glands to secrete thicker sebum, giving the appearance of oily skin and the tendency toward adult acne in some women,” say experts at the International Dermal Institute. They note that during menopause, the lowered oestrogen levels result in less production and repair of collagen and elastin in the dermis of the skin. This lack of repair is particularly pronounced if the skin is exposed to ultraviolet (UV) rays. In addition, the growth and maintenance of blood capillaries in the dermis are partially under the control of oestrogens. Thus, blood flow through the dermal capillaries is reduced during menopause, and less nutrients and oxygen are available to the Stratum Germinativum R
Professional Beauty May 2015
menopause maze
38 Menopause is a natural biological process and is defined as occurring 12 months after your last menstrual period and marks the end of menstrual cycles. Menopause can happen in your 40s or 50s. http://www.mayoclinic.org
or Basal Cell layers of the epidermis. This contributes to the thinning of the epidermis and a slower cell turnover rate, which is accompanied by a reduction in the barrier function of the epidermis, leading to increased transepidermal water loss and dry skin. Dr Robert Gobac of Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals points out that some small amounts of oestrogen are produced by fat tissue and this is the reason why menopausal ageing is slightly more visible in underweight women. Gobac continues: “Several imbalances occur during menopause, including elastosis, sagging skin and wrinkles, increased facial hair, thinning of epidermis, increased sun damage and increased pigmentation.” He explains that elastosis, the reduced repair of collagen and elastin as fibroblastic activity (cells that produce collagen and elastin), is directly influenced by reduced oestrogen levels. “Unrepaired collagen and elastin will make skin appear thinner, nonelastic, and, at the same time, will allow deep crease formation. Fat from supportive layers of the skin will also shrink.
“There will be less and less melanocytes (pigment cells) in the epidermis, so the skin complexion will become pale, while remaining melanocyte activity will become uncontrolled, giving rise to age spots,” concludes Gobac
Vitamins Meghan Less, training manager of Poise Brands, suggests Juliette Armand’s Retin C Cream as a repairing anti-oxidant cream with a high content of Retinol A and Vitamin C. “This product is ideal for menopausal skin because of the active ingredient Glycine Soya. Furthermore, the combination of Retinol A and Vitamin C smoothes out wrinkles and restores lost radiance. It reduces pigment discolouration of the skin and restores the natural direction of collagen and elastin fibres,” explains Less. She notes that the cream also boosts the anti-oxidising, defensive mechanism of the skin and prevents the oxidative damage of cells and of skin collagen and elastin fibres. “I would also recommend Juliette Armand’s Chonos Cream, which acts immediately by reducing wrinkles,
Professional Beauty May 2015
while visibly erasing the marks of time. It boosts the production of collagen for a firmer, more radiant skin and restores cellular damage. This product is rich in the active ingredient Soya Isoflavones – which aids in the challenges encountered by menopausal skin,” adds Less.
45 years+ The Thalgo Silicium range is a uniquely formulated anti-age range for women aged 45 years and older. Thalgo’s Silicium Extracts comprises a caffeine and Marine Silicium Complex, to resculpt the facial contour area and neck. Used as a 28-day course, the extremely high concentration of lifting and defining active ingredients will ensure a visibly lifted skin. Thalgo Hyaluronic Filler contains a high concentration of Marine Hyaluronic Acid for high-precision filling action. It is applied at the very heart of the most pronounced wrinkles for an instant smoothing effect. Wrinkles are effectively filled and the visible signs of ageing diminished.
Stem cells QMS Medicosmetics Cellular Marine is an intensive anti-ageing cream based
online at www.probeauty.co.za
menopause maze
39 QMS Ion Skin Equalizer is a highperformance anti-ageing system where active ingredient molecules are transported into the deeper layers of the skin with the help of a micro-current technology. Specially designed for evening use, Ion Skin Equalizer comes with a separate Night Serum and Cream which act in conjunction to stimulate the skin’s own collagen.
Firm up on the revolutionary technology that harnesses the power of stem cells from the Sea Fennel plant. Highly effective during the day or night, Cellular Marine enhances the stimulation of new skin cells and improves metabolism to leave skin radiant. Also from QMS, Co-lectine 3’s innovative combination of active ingredients re-firms the skin by stimulating the production of Collagen-3 fibres and boosts the creation of new cells. Ingredients are embedded in a Hyaluronic Acid gel.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
If the client is already in menopause, all the DMK age management treatments build the skin back up to youthful activity and thicken the matrix. DMK’s Nite Firming Crème is a specialised cream suitable for mature skin showing the signs of aging, such as wrinkles, loose saggy skin, or weakened capillaries. It protects the mitochondria (the skin’s cellular power plant) to fight the cellular degeneration that causes ageing. It restores structural integrity to stimulate collagen production and strengthen the capillaries. Key ingredients include Carthamus
“A loss of oestrogen and an increase of testosterone leaves skin more aged, thinner and with some secondary male characteristics.” Danné Montague-King
Tinctorius Seed Oil (Safflower Oil, which acts as a protective barrier to prevent water from leaving your skin); Squalane; Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract; Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate – Vitamin C; Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract; Tocopherol Acetate and Palmitoyl Oligopetide.
Three actions Independent clinical trials and extensive laboratory research fully R
Professional Beauty May 2015
menopause maze
40 authenticate the dramatic results and proven benefits of the Elemis AntiAgeing System developed by Noella Gabriel. This system identifies three distinct actions needed for effective anti-ageing – the first being AntiPollution Detox. Formulations contain powerful antioxidants and revolutionary micro-encapsulated vitamins that sweep-clean and rejuvenate the cellular matrix. The second action identified by Elemis is Active Cellular Delivery. Products, including those found in Elemis’ Pro Collagen range, mimic the skin’s own function to boost collagen production, hydrate and speed up skin renewal. Lastly, Elemis’ Extra-Cellular Restructuring action involves collagen-supporting and cell plumping actives to instantly provide a smoother, firmer, more youthful appearance, with lasting results.
Stimulating complex DermaFix Collagen Conformer contains the purest peptides and tetrapeptides in a complex of active ingredients to accelerate the restructuring of the dermis, and has a lifting effect on the skin around the eyes, the neck and neckline. Says Ursula Hunt, MD of DermaFix: “In vitro and in vivo tests on menopausal skin over a period of four months resulted in a substantial increase in the thickening and firming of the facial contours. The tests showed immediate tightening of under-eye bags and festoons (malar bags). Use of Collagen Conformer resulted in a substantial increase in the production of collagen-1 and lumican.” Hunt notes that DermaFix DeCeLerate, with its well-documented ingredients, Matrixyl and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, is superb for lifting the facial contours for a more youthful appearance in just 28 days.
“Some small amounts of oestrogen are produced by fat tissue and this is the reason why menopausal ageing is slightly more visible in underweight women.” Dr Robert Gobac Hyaluronic acid Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA notes that not only are hormones depleted with menopause, but essential hyaluronic acid, which keeps collagen and elastin hydrated and youthful and plumps wrinkles. “RégimA Zone Techno-5 Resurfacer utilises enzymatic extracts from Pineapple and Papaya to smooth and resurface the skin without harsh action. It also helps reduce acne rosacea. The product boasts a worldfirst in peptide technology, namely Biomimetic (imitating nature), to balance the desquamation process for a smoothing effect and skin rejuvenation through enhanced cell renewal,” explains Faucitt. Hyaluronic acid is combined in two unique forms in the RégimA Zone Super Smoother: low molecular weight hyaluronic acid feeds the
Professional Beauty May 2015
dermis, while high molecular weight plumps the epidermis. There are a number of star ingredients in RégimA Zone Age Reversal Night Complex to provide depleted skin with essentials for reparation and rejuvenation during sleep. Euglena Gracilis Extrac firms the skin, while toning, repairing and stimulating healthy cell metabolism. Biopeptide improves skin density by stimulating collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis, while Dermaxyl Oligopeptide stimulates cell communication and repairs age related skin damage.
Smart ageing Dermalogica AgeSmart Overnight Repair Serum is perfect for menopausal skin, as it synchronises with night-time circadian rhythms to enhance skin nourishment, recovery, cell renewal and hydration levels. Key ingredients include Argan oil, rose hip seed oil, rose oil, carrot seed oil and Jasmine oil. Also from Dermalogica, the MultiVitamin Power Serum has microencapsulated Vitamins A, C and E penetrate deep into skin, helping to decrease fine lines and hyperpigmentation (age spots), while stimulating collagen formation to decrease suninduced ageing in skin. Elasticity levels are boosted with a skin-strengthening protein peptide that overrides biochemical triggers that lead to skin ageing.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
menopause maze
41 Rejuvenating ingredients To fight the effects of ageing on the skin and to bring back a glow to the complexion, Anesi Infini Jeunesse has developed Crème Jovialisse. Specifically for mature skin, this cream contains Iris Florentina and Red Clover phyto-hormones, as well as nine anti-ageing active ingredients which compensate for imbalances in estrogenic activity. Crème Jovialisse redensifies the skin, rebuilds support fibres and reduces water loss. Wrinkles are smoothed, the face is redefined and toned, while the complexion regains its luminosity and beauty.
Marine calcium Phytomer’s Ogénage Excellence Radiance Replenishing Cream contains marine calcium (Corallina officinalis) to stimulate the skin for better cell respiration and cohesion. It improves skin firmness and restores radiance. The cream also contains Flaxseed oil, which is rich in Omega-3 and restores suppleness and elasticity to the skin. Phytomer’s star ingredient, Oligomer, delivers an ideal supply of all trace elements, strengthening the skin and preventing cellular fatigue.
Delicate balance Dr Gobac Day Balance Cream is a complex formulation carefully balanced to rehabilitate the skin deep down. It contains clusters of botanical extracts and polypeptides to protect and repair damage caused by free radicals, while nourishing the skin and combating the visible signs of ageing.
Peptide power The Coverderm Peptumax range is a total anti-wrinkle treatment system that effectively treats the three major causes of lines and wrinkles – ageing, overstimulation of facial muscles due to repeated facial expressions, and environmental factors, especially exposure to UV radiation (photoageing). Peptumax treatment products contain state-of-the-art biomimicking peptides and strong immune and anti-inflammatory protection actives. PB
Professional Beauty May 2015
business tips software
42
The click of a
button
These days beauty salons should not be faced with the question of whether to computerise their business processes or not, but rather which system and company to partner with in order to do so, writes Chris Parker.
S
uccessfully computerising your business processes does not usually happen overnight, so you need to see it as an ongoing process – you’re not buying a TV that you turn on and off. A lot has changed since my company, ESP Salon and Spa Software, first started providing software and salon management services to the beauty industry in 1997, most noticeably platforms. In the early nineties we provided predominantly DOS-based software, and the big revolution at that time was changing from DOS to Windows-based. This afforded various opportunities for further developing the software with the more graphical interface, making it easier to manage things like booking schedules and touch screens. The next evolution of platforms was from Windows to the Cloud – and then back again with apps that are installed on mobile devices. A lot of the core business features that existed when we started servicing the beauty industry still remain. For example, a sales invoice, a cash-up and a stocktake were around then. However, it’s the ability to leverage your data that has developed the most, such as having access to your data from anywhere and on any device. Today salons are able to communicate with their clients more effectively
and have the ability to integrate with third parties more easily and cross-pollinate to stimulate business.
Survival of the fittest We always suspected that the beauty/wellness bubble would burst at some stage, and, when it did, that the strongest salons would come out on top. To a degree this is what happened in the 2008/9 credit crunch era. Prior to that time we had amazing numbers of new salons opening and it was a little bit of a gold rush. However, the credit crunch eliminated any salons that were planted in soil that was only fertile because of the market conditions, and not necessarily because they were strong businesses in terms of how they were run. Now we are seeing that the strongest have remained, and these types of businesses know the importance of computerised systems and so we are seeing good numbers of new clients, but for different reasons.
Making it work A client of ours recently commented to me that systems don’t drive business, rather business drives business. Systems are tools, people make them work. ESP sits in the fortunate position of being able to observe salons across the industry and see how successful they are at managing their operations. Some seem to always be on top and moving forward, while others never seem to get out of first gear – operationally speaking – and these are salons and spas using the same systems. So, we always need to look at our own product and services to ensure that we are playing our part, but I’ve come to realise that salon- and spa-owners need to have a very clear understanding of their own business processes and requirements upfront. They need to allocate time and resources to getting their systems to work and they need the right people in place to achieve all of this. Another very important thing to realise about a salon management system is that you need to partner with your software provider and see yourself as being on the same team, working towards a clearly defined goal.
Professional Beauty May 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
43
Strange requests We’ve had our fair share of unusual requirements from beauty clients over the years but one of the strangest was back in our DOS days, when a client was ready to throw out her system because she did not like the black and white colour scheme standard to most DOS environments. She was adamant that we needed to add some bright colours. So we ended up doing a horrendous purple and yellow combination that almost gave you a bit of a headache if you looked at it for too long. This request added no value to the operational functionality of the software, but was a make or break scenario.
Case study Ian Fuhr, founder of the Sorbet beauty salon franchise, first approached ESP in 2004, but we weren’t the right system for Sorbet at the time. However, at the end of 2010 I called Ian to discuss working together, as I believed we had made advancements in some of the
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key areas that the Sorbet group required. We then spent the next nine months further developing our product in preparation for going live with Sorbet in September 2011. The process of getting ready for this included spending a lot of time at the Sorbet head office with all of the key individuals in the operations team, helping them to fully understand the requirements. We were very fortunate in that they had very well-thought-out processes that could be clearly mapped and developed from our side. I believe their clarity of vision and the fact that they keep everything as simple as possible has contributed to their success. Because our system comprises an in-salon element as well as an enterprise element with multibranch data centralisation, we were able to move Sorbet from three or four different systems between branches and head office into one system, namely ESP. The net result was that a number
of manual processes like loyalty and SMS communications could be automated and streamlined in order to free people to focus on the growth of the branch. At the time Sorbet had 37 branches. A little over three years later it has 120 branches. We built Clicks Club Card integration as part of our initial rollout, so, when Sorbet went live with us in September 2011, it also had Clicks integration included with their loyalty points. We had our work cut out for us, but again this is where the operations team can make or break the project, and their operations team persevered through the initial turbulence and then just continued to climb to new heights. PB
Chris Parker is the managing director of ESP Salon and Spa Software. Email him on Chris@ esponline.co.za
Professional Beauty May 2015
software
44
Beautygets technical With a choice of flexible, state-of-the-art software and platforms at their disposal, salon- and spa-owners can manage every facet of their business on their laptops or mobile devices.
A
ccording to Gary Halberstadt of software development company SpaGuru CC, the rise of cloud computing and mobile web applications means that purchasing a software system for your salon is no longer a daunting task that requires a large upfront investment. “Pricing models are often on a month-to-month basis, putting the consumer back in control,” continues Halberstadt. “If the software vendor offers poor support, or if the product does not live up to client expectations, it’s easier to switch solutions.
“As an online solution you also aren’t locked into a particular operating system or expensive hardware options. Whether you are using a Mac, PC, iPad or Galaxy Tab, your chosen software solution should be able to support all of these devices. “Another useful feature of mobile web applications is that they are designed to operate on different size screens seamlessly. This design concept is called responsive design. If you open the application on a large 27” iMac, or browse it using your tablet, the screen will adjust subtly to cater for the different size screens.” Halberstadt points out that many people believe that an online web application to manage their salon is risky, as in if their internet is not working they will have no access to their information. This issue is largely mitigated if you have a tablet with 3G internet access available. Even during load-shedding your tablet and 3G internet access will still be working. “The ability to access your real-time data from anywhere in the world is a major reason to choose a mobile web application. Whether you are at home, or travelling abroad, you can keep a close eye on your business,” explains Halberstadt. He notes that some software providers also offer hybrid solutions.
Professional Beauty May 2015
“A hybrid solution still requires you to install the software on your own server, but it then copies any data changes onto a hosted web server. You can then access the data online using a web browser. Hybrid solutions have their uses, however you lose out on some of the main advantages of an online system, as you still need to purchase, maintain and backup your own server computer. In addition, the data has to be synced, which means that what you are viewing online is not necessarily completely up to date.”
Virtual receptionist The My Appointment online platform allows clients to book appointments from any computer or mobile smart device anywhere and at any time, with instant confirmation. Says My Appointment sales director Shani Leon: “My Appointment ensures that salons still maintain complete control over their calendars, while increasing their bookings and exposure, with no additional administration required. Not only does the platform offer end-to-end appointment management, including automatic reminders, notifications and reporting, it comes with optional cash-up, stock-keeping and salon management components.” Leon maintains that some salons
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software
45 about themselves, their business and their services offered, and list their contact details and operating hours. In addition, they are able to post specials and images on their page.
Micro community
“The ability to access your real-time data from anywhere in the world is a major reason to choose a mobile web application. Whether you are at home, or travelling abroad, you can keep a close eye on your business,”
MY Appointment
Online real time bookings for salons & spas Increase your revenue by allowing clients to book at their convenience 24/7 Includes online advertising and marketing to targeted audience Additional Salon Management modules available to run your business Contact: Shani 082 494 0893 info@myappointment.co.za
Gary Halberstadt
www.myappointment.co.za
remain resistant to online booking due to a lack of understanding as to how the product works. “They believe that it will mean losing control of their own diary to their clients. This is not the case at all. My Appointment uses advanced programming to tailor your online calendar to your needs, so that you maintain complete control of your own bookings, while making it easier for new and existing clients to make an appointment with you. “Some salon-owners are also very wary of the technology. They are afraid of having a technical problem or of losing all of their appointments. My Appointment uses the latest technology to ensure that, even in the unlikely event of a technical error, all of your data is kept safe and can be restored within minutes.” My Appointment offers each salon their own page for advertising, where they can write
Virtually Clear’s beauty consultation management system boosts productivity and improves consultation procedures by optimising the process through progress monitoring. Various measurements can be recorded and progress can be viewed across different treatments. “By implementing this userfriendly system, beauty salon-owners and therapists can view all customer history online and schedule multiple consultations for regular customers. At Virtually Clear we create a micro community of all the roleplayers, clients, suppliers and therapists,” says company director Emerald Veldtman. PB
Visibly Better!
Powered by
treatment review
47
A diamond in the rough Yolanda Knott experiences a mechanical facial exfoliation with the Ecleris Minivac S Diamond Tip Microdermabrasion device.
W
hile prepping me for my treatment, clinical trainer at Radiant Healthcare, Danelle Landman, described the Minivac S Diamond Tip Microdermabrasion treatment as a non-invasive alternative to chemical peels. “Microdermabrasion works at a deeper level than an exfoliation and is not at all painful,” continued Landman. “Typical applications are photo-ageing, hyperkerastosis, acne scars, melasma, fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, blackheads and the reduction of open pores. Microdermabrasion ensures extremely deep penetration of products post treatment. “The Diamond Tip can be used as a standalone treatment or incorporated into a facial. A lot of medical clinics now offer what is termed ‘the medical facial’, which is microdermabrasion followed by a superficial peel and a laser treatment.” Landman referred to the Diamond Tip as ‘a lunchtime treatment’ as there is no downtime or after affects. “There are three levels of microdermabrasion with the Diamond Tip – the superficial level affects only the epidermis (corneum stratum), while the intermediate level touches the dermis. Finally there is the deep level which goes down to the papillary dermis,” explained Landman. Contra-indications are skin diseases or disorders like eczema, herpes simplex, acne lesions, diabetes, localised bruising and open wounds or cuts. Clients on Retin A topical creams and blood thinners are also contra-indicated, as are pregnant women. The first stage of the treatment is to thoroughly cleanse the skin. Landman noted that the Diamond Tip can be used with any good quality, professional skincare brand. “Three factors affect the intensity of the treatment, the first being the tip size,” she explained. “This is divided up into microns, with the tips ranging in size from 50 to 200 microns. The second factor is the degree of power of the Diamond Tip vacuum, while the last factor is the number of times the tip is passed over the skin.” Advantages of the Diamond Tip are that it doesn’t irritate the skin (as tips are made from diamond dust) and therapists can judge the exact level of exfoliation. To commence the treatment Landman first used the orange tip (100 microns). My skin responded very well to the treatment and erythema was almost immediate. The Diamond Tip felt like the very fine granules one uses in an exfoliation. I could also feel the vacuum power as all the dead skin cells were sucked into the device. Landman did vertical movements with the device followed by horizontal moves. This criss-cross action ensures complete coverage of the treatment area.
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For the neck and eye areas, Landman used a finer tip – the yellow tip (75 microns). Post treatment my skin felt incredibly clean and there was no excessive burning at all, just a slight tingle. My skin looked and felt as smooth and soft as a baby’s bottom. PB
Contact: Radiant Healthcare 011 794 8252/3
Professional Beauty May 2015
product focus - cleansers
48
Clean sweep It’s no secret that the starting point for creating an effective skincare regime is the twice-daily use of a high quality, effective cleanser.
Pure touch
Velvet smooth
Thalgo’s Pure Freshness Cleansing Milk, part of the Purity Cleansers range, is a white, light and milky lotion to invigorate, tone and hydrate combination skin with grapefruit Extract to further enhance its toning properties.
011 880 3851/0
Suitable for dry and dehydrated skin, the Six Velvety Soft Cleanser contains niacinamide to regulate sebum production, stimulate collagen production and inhibit the transfer of melanosomes. Other ingredients are sweet almond oil, Shorea butter and pomegranate.
011 312 7840
Bitter almonds MD Prescriptives’ Mandelic Cleanser a relatively new alpha hydroxyl acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds. Unlike other AHAs, it targets several prevalent skincare issues, as it rejuvenates photo-aged skin, actively suppresses pigmentation, and treats acne and ageing skin.
0861 28 23 23
Professional Beauty May 2015
For fig’s sake! SKNcleanse cream is a rich, creamy cleanser that gently lifts impurities from the skin while fig extracts hydrate the skin, leaving it feeling conditioned and nourished. Suitable for dry or mature skin, the cleanser is free from parabens, sulphates and synthetic fragrance.
021 552 6999
online at www.probeauty.co.za
product focus - cleansers
49 Complex active Juliette Armand elements 03 Foaming Face Cleanser contains the trademarked active ingredient, Cleansing Complex, as well as seaweed. Appropriate for all skin types, it cleanses the skin deeply and removes excess oiliness, without drying the skin. It also tones and firms the skin.
011 033 0500
Luxurious gel The Hydrating Cleansing Gel from Beaucience is a luxurious soap-free, cleansing gel, designed to loosen and lift pore debris, dead skin cells and excess skin secretions. It cleanses without compromising the natural pH mantle of the skin or stripping the protective lipid barrier.
021 709 0362
Up, up and away Cspa’s Uplifting Foaming Cleanser is a light and gentle cleanser suitable for all skin types. The Vitamin C and antioxidant properties will assist in restoring skin elasticity. This cleanser is infused with grapefruit, neroli and pomegranate seed essential oil.
011 880 3851/0
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Balance out The Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel is a concentrated, soap-free, foaming gel designed to remove impurities thoroughly without disturbing the skin’s natural moisture balance.
011 268 0018
Professional Beauty May 2015
Book now!
2015 30 & 31 August 2015 Gallagher Convention Centre
How high can your Spa business fly? Covering an array of topics The International Spa Convention will get to the heart of business, practical solutions on profitability, effective operation and marketing For more information: www.probeauty.co.za
KEYNOTE SPEAKER: Jeff Butterworth, chief spa and wellness officer for LUX Island resorts, is in charge of the spas at eight resorts based in Mauritius, Maldives and Reunion Island. Previously Jeff oversaw development and implementation of the Jumeirah spa brand, Talise.
hair news
Crowning glory
51
Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.
R&D Lab opens Henkel Beauty Care – the company behind Schwarzkopf Smooth ‘N Shine and Ladine Professional – has opened a Research & Development (R&D) Laboratory at its new location in Midrand. The company says it represents a significant step forward for ethnic hair care products and confirms Henkel’s commitment to its customers.
011 203 0700 At the launch event - Ladine educations Jeremia Shongwe and Lindiwe Radebe with hair models
Stabilising shampoo Philip Martin’s Hydrating Cream Wash is a moisturising creamy texture shampoo, which cleanses deeply, moisturises and protects the hair without being aggressive. It is composed of a mixture of moisturising vegetable ingredients, conditioning oils and essential oils.
Bald patch
Resulté is prescribed for both male and female pattern baldness arising from poor circulation, everyday stress or chemotherapy. The almost all-natural formula stimulates the hair follicles and scalp circulation and promotes thicker, stronger hair.
071 674 3196
072 621 7535
Curvy technology A new range of innovative styling tools to create long-lasting curls and waves, ghd curve incorporates patented tri-zone technology. Six quick-thinking sensors heat up to, and maintain, a consistent temperature of 185°C – the optimal temperature for styling hair without damage.
011 463 8601
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty May 2015
nails
52
Furnished & equipped for For anyone who dreams of opening up their own nail salon, there are many exciting equipment and furnishing options available, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
I
t’s important to understand that it’s not just a matter of outfitting your salon to look fabulous and appealing; there are various important factors that need to be taken into consideration, or you may end up with a salon that looks stunning but is very impractical. A key factor is the planning and layout of the salon. Once you have a definite idea of the size of your salon, you can plan the work station areas, services and the various other elements that will be incorporated into your offering. Conduct extensive research into exactly what your salon requires to ensure that you create a conducive, safe, hygienic and comfortable environment for clients.
Pop-up The latest trend to hit the nail industry is the store-in-a-store, popup shop. These have advantages and disadvantages, the biggest advantage being that it is quick and easy to set up. A pop-up shop takes very little space and can be set up just about anywhere. You also have the advantage of benefitting from the store or other stores with which you collaborate and which are in close vicinity to you. A disadvantage is that you have very little space to work with and to fit the services you would like to offer your clients. Careful planning has to be imperative with this type of set up.
Furniture & equipment Careful thought must be given to how you furnish and decorate your salon,
Professional Beauty May 2015
as this can become quite a costly exercise if you don’t get it right the first time. The image of your salon will say a lot about you. Clients will be attracted to a salon that is beautiful to look at and has a professional appearance, but at the same time is comfortable with a warm, welcoming feel. Choosing furniture and equipment for a nail salon is not just about the look and the design and having a comfortable nail station, it needs to serve its purpose to ensure that the nail stylist is well prepared and has everything ready and at hand.
Ergonomics When a piece of furniture or equipment is ergonomically designed, it means that it is designed specifically R
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nails
53 Top tips from LCN educator Yvette Mynhardt Nail station Nail table - your nail table or manicure station should be placed in an area that is easily accessible for both the nail stylist and the client. The correct height and width for a nail table will depend on the individual person, and is usually approximately 760mm in height and 535mm wide. Nail stylist’s chair - choose a high quality professional swivel chair, with a seat that is at least one inch wider on each side than your hips and is well padded, so that it doesn’t cause pressure behind the knees. The backrest should also provide enough support for your lower back. The correct height for the chair should be personalised according to the height of the person sitting on it – though the important part of adjusting your chair is to ensure your back is in the most upright position and has support.
success
Client chair – this does not have to be the same as the nail stylist’s chair, it could be a wider, lounge-type chair with arm rests, as long as it is not too low or too hard to sit on. The most important thing is that the client is comfortable throughout the treatment or service. Also, make sure the chair is not too heavy and is easy to move around if need be.
Pedicure station A pedicure area can be professional and luxurious without spending a fortune. Pedicure chair – investing in a whirlpool pedicure chair can be very expensive but a real treat if you have a fairly large budget. If you do invest in a whirlpool unit, make sure your water inlet and outlets are sufficient and that it has a cleaning mechanism to keep it clean and to get rid of any pathogens and microorganisms. Recliner – a comfortable reclining chair and a beautiful pedicure basin made from copper or ceramic filled with flowers and pebbles can be just as enticing and enjoyable as a whirlpool unit. Nail stylist chair – this should be lower than that of the client. There is nothing more uncomfortable than when a client has their leg lifted so high in the air that they feel they need to hold on to it. Leg support - use a leg support cushion or even an ottoman to support the client’s legs and feet to reduce pressure while working.
Conduct extensive research into exactly what your salon requires to ensure that you create a conducive, safe, hygienic and comfortable environment for clients.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty May 2015
A hydrating & moisturising body mask enriched with milk and honey.
www.milksolutions.co.za
nails
55 Safety precautions
to accommodate the body’s shape and posture. This creates a more comfortable and efficient working environment. Most importantly the furniture and equipment you choose must serve your needs and the purpose it is meant for, being not only comfortable but also practical. Always think of how it can benefit both the nail stylist and the client. With ergonomically designed furniture and equipment, there is no need for nail stylists to be subjected to painful working disorders and for clients to have to endure an uncomfortable environment.
Work stations Most of the services and treatments in a nail salon are performed at the nail station or pedi station, so these must be well thought out areas. Having a comfortable workstation with all the necessary furniture and equipment not only looks professional but can a turn a basic treatment into a more luxurious, memorable experience for your clients. Choosing the correct table and chairs can make a big difference and will not only affect your posture and image, but will also ensure that both nail stylist and client are comfortable and not subjected to sitting in an awkward position.
Reception area Your reception area should be welcoming, easy to approach and not block off entry into your salon. Choose furniture that complements the overall look of your salon and is not too bulky. Remember that first impressions are lasting impressions. The retail display area should be
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one of your most important areas. It’s no use having the latest, most innovative retail products where nobody can see them. Make sure your retail display is appealing, visible, well lit up, easily accessible and in an area where your staff can see what is going on at all times.
Careful thought must be given to how you furnish and decorate your salon, as this can become quite a costly exercise if you don’t get it right the first time. Extraction systems An extraction system is one of the most effective means of removing contaminants and dust from the air. As nail salons use chemicals and volatile solvents, it is important to have an extraction system. Even odorless products contain vapours so don’t be fooled into thinking you are not being exposed. Extraction systems can be separate individual units or built into the salon or nail station table.
■ Always make sure any equipment that generates heat and requires an electrical source is placed in the appropriate areas and out of the way. Make sure all wiring is insulated and placed out of the way and away from water. ■ Make sure all treatment equipment such as UV lamps, lamps and paraffin units are placed in their own cabinets and protected from damage or from causing damage. ■ Place a sign on or near any equipment that generates heat such as heating lamps and hot towel cabinets with a suitable warning such as: ‘VERY HOT – DO NOT TOUCH’. ■ Make sure you carry out regular risk assessments and have the proper signage warning clients of areas that could be of risk.
Safety One thing so many people forget about and which is a priority that should always be incorporated into the planning of a nail salon is safety. Observing and considering all the necessary safety rules and regulations required during the planning of your layout is going to be vitally important. If you don’t and someone gets hurt, it could mean a lawsuit and cost you your business. As the good old saying goes, ‘If you fail to plan, you plan to fail!’ PB
Hygiene & sanitation area This is vital to have in your salon to ensure that proper hygiene measures are carried out. Allocate a dedicated area for this, one that should be separate to your washing up area. An autoclave is the most effective way of ensuring that implements are completely and properly sterilised, as it uses very high temperatures.
Professional Beauty May 2015
hand rejuvenation
56
Turning back the ‘hands’ Next to your face, your hands are the most exposed area of your body. They can give away your age and make you appear much older than you physically are, writes Karen Ellithorne.
T
he skin on the hands is considerably thinner than the rest of the body, and the normal loss of subcutaneous fat due to ageing can result in the tendons, bones and veins becoming far more visible. According to Cape Town-based aesthetic doctor Nardus le Grange, ageing on the hands can be divided up into extrinsic signs (ie those affecting the epi- and dermal layers following environmental exposure such as sun, chemicals, etc.) and intrinsic signs, where ageing alters the deeper soft tissue planes, decreasing skin elasticity, soft tissue volume and dermal vascularity. Le Grange continues: “Signs of extrinsic ageing include actinic keratosis, solar lentigenes, punctuated hypopigmentation and solar purpura. Intrinsic ageing includes wrinkles, translucent, lax and thinner skin, prominent veins, joints and tendons, etc.” He notes that most often patients have both intrinsic and extrinsic ageing and therefore hand rejuvenation should be regarded as a multitreatment modality.
Professional Beauty May 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
hand rejuvenation
57
of time
Below are some of the latest innovations that address all facets of ageing on the hands.
Peeling and pigmentation For the more resistant hyperpigmented areas, a course of chemical peels or laser treatments is highly advised. Some of the new combination peels on the market can help you achieve brilliant results due to the combination of acids working together to treat the different ageing issues on the hands. The molecular structure of the various acids also allows for different levels of penetration into the epidermis, and helps to enable the pigment-inhibiting ingredients to reach the melanocytes, which are responsible for the darker pigmented spots. “RégimA Power Peels provide ideal hand rejuvenation,” says Jacqui Faucitt, CEO of RégimA. “Our peel is not a short, sharp, shock, approach but more gradual, which is the ideal and safest method of treating hands that, with ageing and sun damage, become fragile, thinned and bruise and bleed easily. Age spots and solar keratoses are gradually removed, bringing back a youthful smoother texture, plumping
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of the tissues and more even colour.” The RégimA Power Peel boasts a combination of six powerful natural acids, which have a lightening effect superior to hydroquinone with 100% safety, and the addition of healing plants, renowned for essential antiinflammatory and antioxidant action. “Anti-ageing hand peels may be performed every two to four weeks, depending on the initial condition of the skin. They can be coupled with the RégimA Omega High Impact Night Complex (containing, citric, malic and lactic acids, elastin stimulating peptides, and powerful antiinflammatories), to provide continuity at home with the peeling system,” says Faucitt. She also suggests the daily use of RégimA Scar Repair Forté Super Strength Serum to assist in thickening the skin and keeping the skin on the hands supple.
Specific concentrations The optiphi education team reports that its stockists offer clients Skin Rejuvenation Hand Peels to remove dead skin cells whilst stimulating collagen and elastin production. “We use a very specific concentration of a pure form of glycolic acid, in combination with the regenerating properties of retinol. Therefore, by removing the unwanted dead skin cells and cells filled with pigment, the peel also improves skin quality and skin firmness,” says the optiphi team.
They suggest that clients who seek optimum results have one Skin Rejuvenation Hand Peel per week in a course of six treatments. Results will be dependent on the client and the severity of the problem. Skin quality should start to improve after the third treatment and the client will begin to experience soft, hydrated and glowing skin. On the home care front optiphi enthuses about the benefits of the active ingredient retinol and its ability to physically improve sun-damaged skin. They strongly suggest the use of the optiphi Renew Hand Therapy, formulated with an SPF20. “This dual hand moisturiser and sun protecting factor will protect the skin against further damage, while treating the loss of elasticity and firmness. Ideally, the client should combine the use of our Renew Hand Therapy with regular Skin Rejuvenation Hand Peels,” conclude the ophtiphi experts. R
Professional Beauty May 2015
hand rejuvenation
58 Progressive approach Ursula Hunt, MD of DermaFix, suggests the DermaFix Progressive Peel with Vitamin A, a scientific approach that offers excellent results on all skin concerns, including ageing and actinic keratosis. “DermaFix Progressive Peel further encourages cellular regeneration, assisting with collagen and elastin production to revitalise the skin,” explains Hunt. “Treatment would be repeated on a monthly basis until the desired results are achieved, with the individual results largely dependent on the depth at which the damage lies, the extent of the concern and the proper use of recommended home care. “Vitamin A Propionate within the MD Prescriptives range by DermaFix works by retexturing the skin and encouraging cell renewal and vitalisation in 48 weeks,” concludes Hunt.
Laser route Laser technology is also a very effective option for treating darker pigmented areas as it works in a very precise and controlled way directly on pigmented spots. The Energist Ultra Plus from Decade Marketing works with VPL technology (Variable Pulsed Light) and can be used very effectively in skin rejuvenation treatments on the hands. With an energy output of 51J/cm2, the Ultra Plus is designed so that each light pulse consists of a sequence of rapid shorter pulses. These variable pulses ensure controlled absorption of light by the pigment melanin in the pigmented region. The absorbed heat breaks down particles of melanin into smaller particles. These are then recognised by the body as waste. They rise to the skin’s surface and are naturally exfoliated, leaving the skin smooth and clear. The yellow light simultaneously stimulates the fibroblasts to produce healthy collagen and elastin, which will help to firm and plump the hands.
Case Study: Multi-treatment approach
T
his case study is courtesy of Dr Nardus le Grange. A 64-year-old lady with extensive solar damage (Gr 4 ageing) was handled as a multi-treatment approach. The solar keratosis was treated by applying a 30% mesoestetic TCA (Trichloracetic Acid) peel to the lesions. The patient was then put on home treatment with Dermamelan by mesoestetic. Dermamelan reduces and eliminates acquired skin blemishes of melanic origin, increasing skin luminosity and equalising skin tone. After six weeks another 30% mesoestetic TCA peel was done. The patient also received 4ml per hand of Hyacorp 500, using a linear threading technique to address the signs of intrinsic ageing.
Severe solar damage and intrinsic ageing in 64-year-old lady
Volumising and plumping Dr Le Grange says the only method to hide intrinsic ageing is to give volume in the appropriate areas, either to hide tendons and veins, or to volumise the dorsum of the hand with the resultant removal of wrinkles and signs of atrophy. He suggests the use of products such as calcium hydroxyapatite, hyaluronic acid-based fillers or autologous fat transfers for volumisation. “Good hand rejuvenation can be achieved successfully without the overhead of expensive machines,” says Le Grange. “Most patients seeking hand rejuvenation will have significant improvement using chemical peeling and/or injectable fillers. Hyaluronic acid-based fillers not only provide volume, but also act as a humectant and pre-cursor to collagen formation in the skin.” PB
After eight weeks of home and medical treatments
Professional Beauty May 2015
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product news
60
In the market Our round-up of newly launched products and devices.
Ultimate control r Age-defying concept
r
Dermalogica’s Breakout Control is an invisible treatment that clears, controls and prevents breakouts. This fast-absorbing gel contains natural antibacterial agents, including Lactobacillus Ferment, to help to clear and prevent breakouts without the drying effects of Benzoyl Peroxide.
The major plant ingredient in the Platox Skin Treatments Day Cream is Griffonia Lysate, which has a skin-tightening effect and restores wrinkled and sagging skin within two days. Platox Night Cream contains 17 different ingredients, including a plant placenta extract that has natural antiwrinkle properties.
011 268 0018
011 442 7502 / 082 789 1277
Refreshing products
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The Refresh Body Scrub contains salt to exfoliate and re-mineralise the skin, giving it a healthy glow, while Sunflower seed and sweet almond oil nourish it. To create a lovely fragrance in the salon, Refresh Room and Linen Spray uses real lavender oil for its stress relieving properties.
011 807 77951
r
Beach-ready thighs
BTL Industries introduces its Vanquish Flex applicator for use on the thighs and saddlebags. Harnessing first-of-its-kind Vanquish RF technology, the non-surgical Flex hovers over the upper legs to deliver selective RF (Radio Frequency) energy to heat the deep tissue layer. 076 232 8058
Professional Beauty May 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
product news
61
Natural & organic supplies
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South Africa’s first natural and organic salon supplies range, Gwenya, includes 100% massage mediums, masks, scrubs, a base cream and a salon wash. Ingredients include Kalahari Melon Oil from Namibia, Marula Oil from Zimbabwe and Baobab Fruit Extract from Mozambique, Malawi and South Africa.
033 212 3506
Perfect coverage
Colorescience, a medical grade mineral make-up line, includes a variety of specialised face primers to improve skin texture, enhance tone, help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and offer protection. Foundations are formulated to provide customisable coverage and colour.
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Packing a punch
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RégimA’s Post-Op Pack includes Scar Repair Forté Super Strength Serum and comprises a host of newgeneration wound-healing and anti-inflammatory actives, designed to deliver potent care for new operative or trauma scars, hypertrophic scars, damaged skin and stretch marks.
011 467 4145
011 615 2869
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Scintillating shadows
MUD’s eight new eye colours range from stable shades in grey like Statue, to the distinctive Deco blue. Other colours include Pavement (matte dark grey), Flight (matte medium powder blue), Velvetine (demi-matte eggplant shade), Canvas (matte off-white) and Deco (matte turquoise hue), among others.
084 956 5285
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty May 2015
saahsp
62
Cidesco Section South Africa
Experts from around the globe converge on CIDESCO SA South Africa is very proud to host this year’s CIDESCO Congress at the Sandton Convention Centre from 23 to 25 May.
24 May – Sunday
25 May – Monday
08:00 Registration
08:00 Registration
09:00 Laser and IPL
09:15 Cavitation – Does It Work?
Philippa Crichton, somatologist (South Africa)
Dr Adri Hofemeister, aesthetic practitioner (South Africa)
09:35 Radiofrequency and Ultrasound
10:00 The Key to Making your Spa/ Salon a Repeat Destination
10:15 Tea/coffee (including demo sugaring)
Debbie Merdjan, somatologist and spa/salon CEO (South Africa)
Local and international beauty professionals and doctors will speak on a variety of topics related to treating the skin. There will also be business-related and studentfocused forums to educate and uplift delegates.
11:15 Business Management and Entrepreneurial Advice
11:15 Hair Loss Clinic Report
Ian Fuhr, entrepreneur (South Africa)
12:00 Vampire Facial
12:00 Skin Response to Chemical Peeling
Dr Minoka Nadesan, aesthetic practitioner (South Africa) 12:30 Lunch
Dr Bradley Wagemaker, specialised medical practitioner (South Africa)
PUBLIC SESSION – public, delegates and students
23 May – Saturday 08:00 Registration 09:00 Opening ceremony 11:00 Tea/coffee 11:30 Microneedling versus Mesotherapy
Dr Des Fernandes, plastic surgeon (South Africa) 12:15 Skin Grafting Success Story
Dr Ridwan Mia, plastic surgeon (South Africa) 13:00 Lunch (including demo) 14:00 Periosteal Microplastic Surgery
Professor Dong Ping (China) 15:15 Tea/coffee (including demo) 15:45 Scalp Micropigmentation
Anouska Cassano, micropigmentation specialist (UK) 16:30 Touch Therapy and Its Effect
Dr Catherine Davies, medical practitioner (South Africa)
12:30 2015 Scientifically Based Active Ingredients
Professor Kirschner (Germany) 13:15 Lunch (including demo – waxing professionally) 14:00 A Lesson on Skin Lesions and Irregularities
Janine Thomson, somatologist (South Africa) 14:30 Advanced Vein Care
Dr Riaz Motara, medical practitioner, Wits University (South Africa) 15:15 Tea/Coffee
(including demo – threading) 15:40 Massage on Cancer Patients
Johnette du Randt, lymphedema/massage therapist; aesthetician (USA) 16:30 Panel Discussion – Where Skin Therapy and Medical Aesthetics Meet
to be announced
Dr A. Bovero, Professor of Cosmetology and
17:15 Exhibition demonstration
Communication of Beauty and Wellness (Italy) – including demonstrations
18:00 Exhibition closes
17:15 Exhibition demonstration 18:30 Exhibition closes Breakaway Room includes the following topics: Sports Massage; Effective Extraction; African Seed Oil for Cosmetics; Anti-Ageing Naturally; Reading the Feet and Nails; Treating Diabetic Clients; and Medical and Aesthetic Stratifying.
Breakaway Room includes the following topics: Biochemical Plastic Surgery for the Skin; Acid versus Alkalinity; Trends in the Beauty Industry; Putting Yourself Out There – Social Media etc; Consultation + Prescription = Sale; Understanding the Fundamentals of Business; Treatment of Pigmentation by Laser; Hair Loss Clinic Report; Nutrition for Different Body and Skin Types; Treating Ethnic Skin Concerns.
Professional Beauty May 2015
Yvonne De Boer, hair loss expert (Holland)
13:15 CHOC (Children’s Cancer Foundation) Introduction – Professor
Janet Poole, paediatric oncologist (South Africa) 13:30 Look Good Feel Better –
Margaret Hewson, programme director (South Africa) 14:00 Micro-Needling in Practice
demonstration 14:30 Tea/coffee 15:00 Panel Discussion – plastic surgeons, aesthetic doctors, somatologists – Q&A on Procedures 16:00 Make-up Competition Parade – African Fauna & Flora theme CLOSING CEREMONY & HANDING OVER OF CIDESCO FLAG Breakaway Room – student-focused programme includes the following topics: Beauty Therapy – Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow, A Passionate Profession, Air-Brush Make-Up, Career Path, Protection Against the Sun is Key, Individual Wellness, Money Matters, Sense and Effect Of Smell, Your Body – Your Responsibility. *programme is subject to change For more information please go to www.cidescocongress2015.com. To register for the CIDESCO Global Congress and Exhibition 2015 click on the following link: https://www. quicket.co.za/events/6983-skin-isalive/
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
64 Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Brenda Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: classifieds@probeauty.co.za
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spa, salon, services, products, education & business opportunities in Professional Beauty Call Brenda on 011 781 5970
To advertise your PRODUCTS, SERVICES AND SUPPLIES in this space, call Brenda on 011 781 5970 Professional Beauty May 2015
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A moisturiser like no other...
The new Environ Super Moisturiser+ is a luxurious moisturising cream scientifically formulated to be easily absorbed, and to enhance the retention of moisture naturally found in the skin, leaving it looking smoother and feeling refreshed and softer to the touch. Super Moisturiser+ is a unique Environ “cocktail” of scientifically researched ingredients, such as Revidrate™, Pentavitin® and Pro-Vitamin B5, which have been proven to enhance natural moisturising factors, as well as protect and retain skin moisture. Apart from providing skin with intensive and lasting hydration, our unique “cocktail” also contains
effective antioxidants and vitamins C and E which shield and protect the skin from the damaging effects of the modern environment, thereby enhancing the skin’s brightness and radiance. Super Moisturiser+ is suitable for all skin types, especially dry and sensitive skin that reacts to environmental extremes. It is also ideal for those who are exposed daily to dry air, or frequently travel by plane. It can be used together with other Environ creams containing vitamin A or as an alternative moisturiser if experiencing dryness or transient sensitivity to the Environ vitamin A products.
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