Pro Beauty May 2017

May 2017

www.probeauty.co.za

Kaleidoscope Colour therapy

EPIC ERUPTIONS Teenage acne

Positively preggers Treating pregnant clients

ACT OF DIPLOMACY

Dealing with tricky customers

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In this issue...

Regulars 5 Industry news

Local and international news

52 Crowning glory

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

32 New Zapier integration rolls out

40 Marvellous massage for Mom-to-Be

33 Cape Town salon increases online capability

59 Product news

All the latest launches

Connected software

Boosting online engagement

34 Staying power

Case study – The Beauty Clinic

64 SAAHSP

The latest news from SAAHSP

Business 14 Ask the experts

All your questions answered

Spa Focus 26 Shine on

Silver Forest Spa

Treatment review

42 When with child

Pregnancy-safe treatments

46 At face value

Acne Q&A

48 Spot on

Acne treatments

56 Treating the extremities

Hand and foot treatments

28 Healing with colour

Chromatherapy in the spa

17 Insider

Tracking the industry with stats

18 Trending into the future

Combining aesthetic medicine with relaxation and beauty

20 A fresh pair of eyes

How not to overthink

21 Measuring up

Dealing with difficult clients

30 It’s what you do with your technology

57 The vital vitamin

Vitamin D’s effect on the skin

Nails 53 Up to scratch

Filing tools and techniques

Setting goals for staff

22 Tricky customer

Medical Aesthetics

Salon software

Features 36 Ready, get set…Show!

Professional Beauty Durban Show Preview

40

welcome

2

A

s this issue was being finalised, our operations team had just returned from the Professional Beauty Cape Town Expo, held at its spectacular new venue, The Lookout at the V&A Waterfront. Feedback indicated that exhibitors and visitors loved this new setting for the show. Similarly, the Professional Beauty Durban Show (21 and 22 May) will also be held at an exciting new venue, the Greyville Convention Centre, and will feature the same revamped format that made the Cape Town show such a success. We include in this issue a preview of just some of the exciting products and technologies that will be on show.

With an estimated 80% of all teenagers affected by some form of acne, it’s no surprise that skincare brands put so much effort and R&D into developing products to treat this unsightly and often emotionally traumatising condition. In this issue we put the focus on the latest and most effective in salon treatments and retail products for acne-ridden teenage clients.

It is said that there is no better time to pamper a woman than when she is pregnant. And yet, this is quite a neglected segment of the beauty market, two of the reasons being the safety aspect and the specialised nature of treatments involved. However, those spas and salons that have put the effort into researching pregnancy-safe brands and ingredients and have undertaken training in the techniques for performing beauty treatments on pregnant clients, will surely reap the rewards in terms of increased revenue.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

May 2017

www.probeauty.co.za

Kaleidoscope Colour therapy

EPIC ERUPTIONS Teenage acne

Positively preggers Treating pregnant clients

ACT OF DIPLOMACY

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Dealing with tricky customers

Publisher Mark Moloney

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Managing Director Yolanda Knott

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Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

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Marketing Coordinator Dee Miloa 011 781 5970 Sales Manager Alexandra Norvall

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Professional Beauty May 2017

online at www.probeauty.co.za

industry news

5

News All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

Top Sans Soucis execs visit SA

L

N Marketing, official distributor of Sans Soucis skincare products in South Africa, recently hosted a visit from Sans Soucis’ international sales director, Christian Braunbeck, and Marianne Schwarberg, head of R&D. Speaking at an event held in Johannesburg to mark LN Marketing’s 21-year-long distributorship of Sans Soucis, Braunbeck noted that the German brand was proud to have such a reliable customer base in South Africa.

“Sans Soucis is headquartered in Baden-Baden, one of the oldest spa cities in the world. Each year we open new

Christian Braunbeck, Natalie Grigst and Maranne Schwarberg

chapters in the company’s history as well as launch new products. Sans Soucis wants to be a protagonist for the future.

“All products are formulated, manufactured and packaged within our headquarters, so every stage of the process is handled by us. This is a big factor in our favour and one that many skincare companies don’t share.

Our dedication has always been much more on the product side than the marketing side. This is what gives the Sans Soucis brand such strength,” commented Braunbeck.

Miss SA finalists ‘Sprout’ Sprout Aesthetics in Sandton performed Green Peel beauty2go treatments on all 12 Miss South Africa 2017 finalists in February, as part of the clinic’s sponsorship activities for the competition.

Said Sprout MD Gunther Dippenaar: “We have been taking care of all the aesthetic needs of the reigning Miss South Africa for the past three years, by treating all of her specific skin concerns with noninvasive treatments like micro needling and peels.

With her many social commitments as well as hectic travel schedule, Miss South Africa has to look Gunther Dippenaar with Demi-Leigh Nel-Peters, incredible at all times.” who was subsequently crowned Miss SA 2017

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Schwarberg, who first visited South Africa on behalf of Sans Soucis some 30 years ago, added that the company’s philosophy is never to sacrifice quality.

She continued: “R&D is everything. The whole process starts in small beaker glasses in our laboratory, where we mix our formulations and test them. Our testing protocol is rigorous as we have to test efficacy for anti-wrinkle properties, moisturising properties, etc. as all our product claims must be justified.”

Braunbeck revealed that new brand imaging and packing design will be rolled out this year.

News in pictures

In collaboration with Disney South Africa, Sparkle Cosmetics held previews in Johannesburg and Cape Town of Disney’s Beauty and the Beast, to coincide with the launch of the Gelish/Morgan Taylor collection of the same name. Pictured are Sparkle’s Nicole Hoffman, Romy Pfaff, Debbie Kayle and Lucia Oosthuizen.

Professional Beauty May 2017

industry news

6

New moves at Poise

News in brief

I

n addition to launching its brand new website on 1 April this year, Poise Brands, distributor of Mama Mio, Mio, Juliette Armand and Mii Cosmetics, has announced new job specs for Elmi Smit and Liza-Marie Prinsloo.

Prinsloo has been appointed as the training coordinator for Poise Brands, while Smit is now product educator and business development consultant for Sub-Saharan Africa.

Says Prinsloo: “I love every single product that Poise has to offer and thoroughly enjoy sharing my knowledge and passion with industry leaders.”

Smit adds: “I cannot wait to see what the future holds and where I can make a difference next”.

Regarding the company’s new website (www.poisebrands.co.za), Fleurette du Rand, Poise marketing & PR coordinator, says: “We have added a Geo-Location functionally where consumers can search for a stockist based on their current location. This function has also been split to enable them to search for a stockist that stocks the specific brand they are looking for.”

■ GMP launches online platform: The Global Mentorship Programme (GMP), created to address the staffing crisis in the spa industry, has launched on online platform which allows mentors and mentees to connect within 10 minutes. (http://www. mentorshipevidence.com) ■ Sam Dhatt visits SA: CEO and lead chemist of American cosmeceutical brand, Dermaquest, Sam Dhatt, visited distributor Evolution Cosmetic in Johannesburg in March. Dhatt introduced the local market to the Retinaldehyde Renewal Cream and the Stem Cell 3D Mask.

Elmi Smit

■ Binnelanders chooses Bodyography: Popular South African soapie, Binnelanders, has selected Bodyography Natural Finish Liquid Foundation as its foundation of choice.

The soapie’s make-up artist, Elzette van der Schyff, chose the product because it provides full coverage while nourishing actresses’ skins.

Liza-Marie Prinsloo

Skin iD relocates

■ SkinCeuticals punts ‘prejuvenation’: Cosmeceutical brand, SkinCeuticals, has launched MetaCell Renewal B3, with niacinamide (Vitamin B3) to target the stage before skin requires rejuvenation.

Previously situated at the Sandton Medi-Clinic, Skin iD, the peeling clinic founded by Sonette Donker, has moved to Manor Medical Centre on Kelvin Drive in Morningside.

Says Donker: “The new location is much easier for my clients to access as there is far less traffic in this area. In addition, we have free, safe parking. This beautiful new space is bigger than my previous premises and allows me to have a reception/consultation area, as well as a treatment room.”

Donker, who performs all treatments herself, offers Dermaceutic chemical peels, Rejuvapen micro-needling and pHformula Skin Resurfacing The new reception area treatments.

Professional Beauty May 2017

■ Acne’s effect on adolescents: The British Skin Foundation reports that three out of five adolescent acne sufferers in the UK say it affects their selfconfidence. Sixty-two-percent reported being verbally abused, with a further 46% bullied regularly because of their skin condition.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

industry news

9

New spa opens in Limpopo

A

loe Day Spa, located at the entrance of Lephalale town and on the same property as the Palm Park Hotel, opened for business on 1 March this year.

Owner and businesswoman, Arona Rossouw, comments on her motivation for opening the spa: “I love visiting spas and enjoy the peace and serenity that a spa treatment brings to one. In addition, I also enjoy technology in beauty treatments that produces visible results. This is something that I feel our area needs more of.”

Some 376m2 in size, Aloe Day Spa includes three double treatment rooms, a manicure & pedicure lounge, relaxation area, rasul chamber, steam room, steam shower, sensation shower, outdoor heated spa pool, built in colour therapy and Jacuzzi.

“We only use professionally recognised brands that are not available in a retail environment and are proud stockists of SIX Sensational Skincare, Spalicious for hands, feet and body, Aloe Unique Skin & Body care, and ibd for gel polish,” says Rossouw.

She notes that the name of the spa was inspired by the fact that the aloe plant is referred to as ‘the plant of immortality’, due to its many uses since ancient times.

Lamprobe SA sponsors bursary

Dr Nicole Brooks and Monique Le Roux

The top 2016 student in the Cape Peninsula University of Technology’s (CPUT’s) Advanced Lesion Course on The Recognition & Removal Of Minor Skin Lesions has received a R5,000 bursary sponsored by Lamprobe SA. “We would like to congratulate Monique Le Roux on this achievement

online at www.probeauty.co.za

and are extremely proud of her,” comments Lamprobe’s Janine Thomson. “The course forms part of CPUT’s BTECH 4th year syllabus every year.”

The certificate and bursary was recently presented by Dr Nicole Brooks from CPUT’s Somatology Department.

News in pictures

Professional Beauty held its first Cape Town Network Breakfast event for 2017 on 20 February at River Club.

Pictured are the speakers – Jacoline Wentzel from The Spa Warehouse; Professional Beauty’s commercial director, Phil Woods, and Lauren Gibson from Dermalogica. Topics included motivating and retaining staff, social media marketing and insurance for salons and spas.

Professional Beauty May 2017

industry news

10

Dectro Academy gets underway

T

he newly launched Dectro Academy in South Africa recently held its first ever training course, at the Madge Wallace Beauty School in Parktown North, Johannesburg.

Students completed an internationally recognised course in Thermocoagulation.

Dectro Academy is a partnership between Beautique Distributors and Dectro International and also offers internationally recognised courses in Electrology. Online theory courses as well as practical training are offered

Graduates of the first course

at Beautique’s head office in Waverly, Johannesburg.

Beautique has invested in seven

Electrolysis and Thermocoagulation devices that will be on loan to beauty schools.

New provinces for Xtreme Training facilities for Xtreme Lashes have just opened in the Western Cape and Free State, in Brackenfell and Bloemfontein respectively.

“This adds to our existing training facilities in Johannesburg and Potchefstroom,” comments Xtreme owner and director, Elizma Smith.

“Our Free State facility will also cover Northern Cape Province.

“The demand for training has increased over the last couple of months and we found that it was costly for stylists from other provinces to do the training at head office in

Bertha Leonard

Anra Faber

Johannesburg. Future plans are to create two more training facilities, in KwaZulu-Natal and Eastern Cape.”

Smith has appointed Bertha

Leonard, owner of the Capri Training Academy, as the trainer in Brackenfell, while Anra Faber from Qualitas Career Academy is the trainer in Bloemfontein.

Standalone spa for Gondwana

The Gondwana Game Reserve in the Cape’s picturesque Garden Route, recently launched a new, standalone spa to replace its original spa, which was situated at the Kwena Lodge, the tourism safari lodge situated on the reserve.

Says spa manager Gerda Muller: “The new spa is a tented structure with a folding glass-door front, for the real

Professional Beauty May 2017

safari feel with a view. Guests love the natural bush vibe and open vistas of the outdoors.

“This spa facility is bigger than the original one as it offers two treatment rooms with two therapists, as well as an indoor and outdoor waiting/reception area. We also have a beautiful open shower.”

She notes that the spa utilises the Africology brand. “It is an all-natural African inspired range that is well aligned to the Gondwana brand. One of our most popular treatments is The Happy Hippo Mud Wrap; this is a fun way to get a full body exfoliation and detoxification followed by a relaxing massage. Also popular is The Sundowner Anti-Ageing Facial.”

online at www.probeauty.co.za

industry news

13

New LCN concepts introduced

L

ooking Good LCN, the sole LCN distributor in South Africa and neighbouring countries, has launched new LCN concepts, namely Micro Needling, Microblading, LCN Facial Care Range and Studio Skin Expert.

“We had the privilege of hosting Daniela Bauer-Schwed, international trainer from Wilde Cosmetics, in March.

Wilde Cosmetics is a German company and the founders and manufacturers of the LCN brand.

“During her visit, Daniela not only trained our own LCN trainers but also conducted the first Micro Blading seminar for clients,” says Lea Castro, MD of Looking Good LCN.

LTI appoints Limpopo sales rep

Modish-I launches

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Lilian Terry International (LTI) has appointed Polokwane-based Lebo Ramorapeli as sales representative for the Limpopo province.

Says LTI’s Derek Terry: “Lebo has been in the beauty industry for almost 15 years and been an LTI stockist for five years, giving her the perfect background to represent not only our own brand, but also AHR (Advanced Hair Research) and

Adorn Skin Care, both of which LTI distributes.

“We know that Lebo will offer spas and salons in the Limpopo area great customer service and we're excited to have her on board. Limpopo spas and salons can contact her at ltilimpopo@ gmail.com or 076 411 8404, or alternatively the LTI head office at 012 361 2606.”

Created by Boitumelo Mphahlele, new South African body treatment range, Modish-I, is formulated using esoteric recipes, combined with modern innovation.

Says Mphahlele: “The Modish-I product range was inspired by the women of Africa and their early establishment of organic beauty rituals. It is a combination of high-tech natural and organic formulations designed to keep skin in optimum health. We’ve sourced the ingredients from African botanicals, using a cocktail of rich emollients blended with indigenous herbs, vitamins, antioxidants, probiotics, minerals, fruit and vegetable pulp, coupled with botanical active ingredients.”

She reveals that Modish-I began as

a passion project, which started due to her own battle with dermatitis.

“Treating my dry, cracked skin was a constant struggle. It was after listening to an exchange between the older women in my family about their traditional beauty methods that I began researching tried and tested botanical derivatives and formulated my own skin products.”

The range includes: Body Gello (body serum); Body Crumble (exfoliating scrub); Body Pudding (nourishing body cream); Body Smoothie (shower gel); Body Milk (cream wash); and Body Nougat (soap).

Modish-I is not tested on animals and is vegetarian friendly, free of sulphates, PEGS, parabens, colourants and other harsh chemicals.

Professional Beauty May 2017

business tips

14

Ask the experts Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

What are some top sales tips that I can pass onto my spa staff?

A

healthy sales pipeline is the lifeline of any business. Selling is an art, a science and should you master it, the opportunities for wealth and growth are endless.

Some key points: • Create strong relationships with your clients: acknowledge each of them as individuals and foster open communication to ensure honest feedback at all times.

• Referrals: never be afraid to ask for referrals. It is vital that you have already offered world class service before you ask for a referral. Positive word of mouth has a great impact and one person can tell a dozen people about your services.

• Be an MVP (Most Valuable &

Profitable) staff member: With your sales, always suggest add-ons (e.g. a client comes in for a manicure and pedicure, suggest a head and neck massage to go with it). Be reliable and consistent; say no to mediocrity and always strive to improve on your previous service and results.

• Set huge targets and hit them: ‘Aim for the sky and you will land on the clouds. If you only aim for the clouds, you will land on the ground.’ Without belief it is impossible to achieve.

• Seek to know your competition: who is the number 1 of all the spas in your area? It is key that you know what they do differently in order for you to improve yourself. You can’t chase what you don’t know.

Thulani Thabethe is the founder and owner of 2larnie Solutions Pty Ltd. He is a sales and marketing guru, motivational speaker and in-store announcer.

What are the benefits of gold-infused skincare products?

U

sing gold for skincare has become increasingly relevant recently, with more and more spas and salons taking cognisance of its role in healing and anti-ageing.

However, the use of gold in skin treatments was well established by the Japanese, the Romans and the Egyptians from early times.

Gold’s potential to effect significant changes to the skin has been harnessed in conjunction with nanotechnology to enable ready absorption. This results in an antiinflammatory action and reduces acne and hyperpigmentation.

In addition, gold appears to slow down collagen depletion and the breakdown of elastin to prevent sagging skin. Gold also stimulates micro-circulation and assists skin rejuvenation, allowing the skin to clear impurities, while increased blood flow increases delivery of oxygen to the skin.

Professional Beauty May 2017

Furthermore, gold contains ions to help stimulate the cells, nerves and veins. This leads to improved blood circulation and will increase skin cell metabolism, which will in turn treat dryness of the skin.

Gold is anti-bacterial and an anti-oxidant that protects against free radicals and environmental damage, while enhancing the skin’s natural luminosity.

Lastly, gold reflects light and gives the skin a flawless tone.

Dr Michelle Roberts is CEO of Black Pearl South Africa and Black Pearl International Spa Director. She is passionate about quality and about working with clients to reach their business potential.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

15 Should I recommend a nutritional supplement to female clients suffering from hair loss?

A

lopecia, the medical term for hair loss, is common in females and can have severe psychological implications. Women are more susceptible to hair loss as a result of hormonal imbalances during pregnancy and menopause. Thyroid dysfunction, stress, iron deficiency, high DHT levels, and chemical damage are among others causes.

Many forms of hair loss can now be reversed with multi-nutrient supplementation.

Classified as complementary medicines, nutritional supplements can be a potent link to optimal hair condition.

Nutritional hair care supplements are designed to correct the underlying causes of hair loss and subsequently to improve follicle health and activity.

Therefore, recommend a high quality

multi-nutrient hair supplement that fulfils these functions to individuals experiencing hair loss. Nutritional supplements should be an essential treatment in your salon range to prevent hair fall and stimulate regrowth.

Most clients cannot independently identify the cause of their hair fall. It is therefore best to use a comprehensive hair supplement that caters to correct all the primary causes of hair loss.

The supplement must contain regenerating ingredients that revitalise and restore the structure of the hair follicle, to stimulate regrowth and improve the condition of new hair.

Rasheed A Patel is the founder of luxury nutritional company, Fusion Laboratories.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

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business tips

17

Insider

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in February 2016.

Insider Spa

Insider Salon

Due to the country’s unstable economic Spas polled reported that, while status, the vast majority of salons in treatment business was very poor in South Africa reported that clients have February 2017 as compared to the been taking rain checks on treatments same time last year (with 60% reporting and retail purchases. An unhealthy 77% a decline), retail business soared. A of salons polled experienced a decrease staggering 87% of spas reported an in treatment business as compared to the increase in retail business, even if some same time last year, while retail business increases were very slight. Reasons cited fared even worse, with only 15% of you were more focus on retailing training reporting an increase in retail business and guests opting to spend money on compared to February 2016. products rather than other items.

One salon noted that a lot of clients The woeful treatment business were unable to avail themselves for situation was generally attributed to the treatments as they were too busy preparing their kids for varsity, with the varsity poor economy. Of the spas that reported year starting much later in 2017 than last year. Another salon owner attributed the an increase, one noted that Valentine’s retail business nosedive to suppliers who now sell products to consumers directly.

Day falling on a weekday had a positive Clients’ major concerns vary from facial hair removal and waxing to antieffect on business, while another spa ageing. One salon reported that, as most of its clientele is mature, they do a lot of experienced a surge in new clientele. electrolysis treatments for elderly ladies with course facial hair.

The biggest concerns among clients Among social media platforms such as Instagram, Twitter appear to be stress relief, ageing and Pinterest, several salons polled take advantage skin, sun damage and weight of Facebook to promote their work and AVERAGE AVERAGE issues.

TREATMENT TREATMENT communicate with existing and potential In terms of marketing, ROOM ROOM customers. Only a few of you use more than most spas use Facebook, OCCUPANCY OCCUPANCY one social media platform. Surprisingly, with some also using one salon revealed that it primarily uses Instagram and one spa WhatsApp, while another does not use using both of these as any social media platforms to market or well as Trip Advisor and communicate with clients. PB Twitter.

45%

60%

The month in numbers

30

% BETTER

10

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2017 COMPARE WITH FEBRUARY 2016?

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2017 COMPARE WITH FEBRUARY 2016?

60

87

% BETTER

3

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2017 COMPARE WITH FEBRUARY 2016?

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0

% SAME

% SAME

% WORSE

15

% BETTER

% SAME

10

% WORSE

15

% BETTER

85

% WORSE

8

% SAME

77

% WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2017 COMPARE WITH FEBRUARY 2016?

Professional Beauty May 2017

business tips

18

Trending into the future To get your share of the market you need to keep up with trends and today’s trend is to combine aesthetic medicine with relaxation and beauty, writes Debbie Merdjan.

T

he figures that are spent on beauty are staggering; the beauty and anti-ageing market is currently sitting at $999 billion. These figures are almost unthinkable, making the beauty business one the fastest growing and most important industries today.

Ten years ago we could not have predicted the changes, or the growth, in the beauty industry. There was a general leaning towards using cutting edge technology, but anyone who thought this leaning would be ‘slow’ was wrong.

A few years ago we spoke about ‘facials’ or ‘treatments.’ We used face masks and steamers. We used our hands and hot stones.

But as the demand for anti-ageing gets bigger and bigger, so does our language. Today, we speak about cyrotherapy, ultrasound, factional radio frequency, laser treatment, body contouring and oxygen jet peels. This has led to the growth of medi-spas. Treatments at a medi-spa are offered under the supervision of a doctor, a dermatologist or a plastic surgeon.

Combination offering The lovely thing about a medi-spa is that you can combine a traditional spa experience with a traditional doctor’s visit. Clients can have the

Professional Beauty May 2017

relaxation, the fluffy robe, the slippers, soft music, herbal tea and gentle soothing voice of a therapist, together with the knowledge of a doctor.

Treatments at an ‘ordinary’ spa are gentle and non-invasive. They are what most of us know – resultbound but not in the way of aesthetic surgery. Your therapist will do the best for your skin type or your body, make your skin look and feel gorgeous and certainly make you look and feel younger, or thinner, over a period of time.

Treatments at a medi-spa are a lot more invasive, intensive and permanent. They’re not quite surgery but they do need the knowledge of specialists. And this is where one must be careful.

When a client visits a medi-spa or an aesthetics centre, they are often under the impression that treatments are done under the guidance of a specialist. Sometimes they are. But other times the specialist has just ‘lent his name’ to a procedure, or given advice in advance, or perhaps offered some training to staff.

So, clients must do their homework.

Find out who is doing your procedure, what experience they have, and who is overseeing everything.

Understand what is being done to you and if there are any risks

involved. Ask questions.

And, as the owner of a medispa, know that you can make good money out of these new cutting edge treatments, but acknowledge that you need to do them properly. It’s a beautiful business and a competitive one; it is rewarding and wonderful, but it can be complicated and there is definitely specialist knowledge needed.

Are medi-spas the future? Talk to them – you can always team up! PB Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982, started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

20

A fresh pair of eyes If you find yourself overthinking potential changes to your business, maybe you need an ally who sees things more simply, suggests Hellen Ward.

Y

ou may have heard a lot in the media about practising the techniques of mindfulness.

Even in my son’s prep school they’re encouraging the children to stop, breathe and listen.

Whether or not you buy into the whole concept of taking time out just to ‘be’ and still yourself, there are some parts of the philosophy that it’s hard to ignore. The principle that resonates with me most is our tendency to overthink. While ruminating on things is, for some, the key to a balanced thought process, research suggests that for others, thinking about things too deeply can lead to anxiety, stress, insomnia and depression.

One book I read recently went further, suggesting that the curse of overthinking was a biological change and that as we age, we lose our curious child-like brains and their ability to cut through the fog of past experience, mixed with concrete knowledge and factual evidence.

Fresh thinking It can be the same with our businesses.

When salons ask me for help, it’s not

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always my business acumen and industry experience that enables me to cut to the chase. Sometimes it’s the mere fact that mine are a fresh pair of eyes, seeing things with an unburdened head that lets me get straight to the points that need focus.

Most salon owners I know are working with a partner of some sort.

Some will be in business with an excolleague or a friend. Sometimes it will be a family member. Or, worst case scenario (joke!) a husband or wife. As someone who has worked with her husband for over 25 years, I can attest that it’s not easy. Marriage and nine-to-five (at best) do not great bed-fellows make. What allows us to be in business together without getting divorced is an ability to be a yin and yang. I’m often asked how we are able to work together, and it’s only because we do things so differently.

For every over-thinker, there has to be a counter balance; a childlike, black-and-white approach. So, if you’re the one who is exploring all the options and weighing up every decision, you need someone else

to see things quickly and without complication.

Keep moving Our businesses sometimes need some fresh, instantaneous thinking to get them moving in a different direction. One thing’s for sure, the inability to make decisions is crippling. Embracing the discomfort of uncertainty is what fresh thinking is all about. Trying something out because it feels right is liberating.

Being prepared to fail if it doesn’t work is equally so. Rarely is a decision so final that it can’t be over turned.

So perhaps you’re contemplating an adventurous new approach – launching a treatment, taking on an extra therapist, stocking a different range or re-thinking some element of your business such as pricing, branding or design. Don’t be afraid to try it. PB Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.

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Measuring up Setting goals for your staff not only motivates them but also helps you to track their performance, writes Lauren Gibson.

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hy is measuring goals so important?

We are approaching the end of a quarter so reflecting back on our performance and looking forward to tweaking some plans is critical at this time of year.

So let’s think a bit further back for a minute. I want to urge you to think back to school when you had to write a maths test, or back to college when you had to write an anatomy exam.

How did you feel? If it was a general test or exam, how much work went into preparing for it? If you thought it didn’t count for much, then I can guarantee that you probably studied five minutes before the exam. Sound familiar?

However, think back to your matric final maths exam, or your final CIDESCO or SAAHSP exam at college – did you feel different? Did you prepare differently? Well yes, I am sure that 99% of you did. I am sure you studied for hours, did study groups and ensured you worked hard to meet the required objectives of passing the year.

As human beings we have an incredible way of only applying extra

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“Measures of success when it comes to goals allow employees to be involved in the evaluation process and equips them with the correct tools to ensure positive outcomes that match your goal objectives.” effort when we know that there is a measurement involved, or that it will count for something – like passing matric or getting a great job. While this might not be the best mentality to have, we have to acknowledge that it does exist, especially among the millennials that we are now employing into our businesses.

Working plan So, how do measurement goals relate to your work and business? If you are setting goals for your business and expect your teams to implement them for you, then it is important that you

explain what the goal is and how you are going to measure it.

For example, say you want to increase the number of full body massages you do in a month. How will you measure that? And, how will you incentivise the staff who book and perform the most full body massages?

If you run a campaign about full body massages on a social media platform like Facebook, as well as on your website and through emailers, then you could look at how many massages are booked between that time period, what digital strategy was the most effective for your business, and what you would change the next time.

Measures of success when it comes to goals allow employees to be involved in the evaluation process and equips them with the correct tools to ensure positive outcomes that match your goal objectives. So measure the impact of actions and create change in your business. PB Lauren Gibson has worked for Dermalogica for four years. She has been an educator, sales brand consultant, and, more recently, the regional manager for Cape Town.

Her passion lies in up-skilling people, seeing the potential in businesses and unlocking that potential and constantly learning to reignite her love for the industry.

E-mail laureng@ dermalogica.co.za

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Tricky customer Drawing from years of experience of working on cruise liners, as well as at a top London spa and in the northern suburbs of Johannesburg, Philippa Abbott reveals how to deal with challenging clients.

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have done my fair share of working with clients in the spa industry over the past 16 years and have hence dealt with many people that I would categorise as difficult.

When I started out working as a therapist on cruise ships, I thought New Yorkers were a seriously difficult bunch, and I dreaded encountering them on cruises. But after some time, I realised that by actually dealing with their complaints, no matter how bizarre, that I could handle them.

I then moved to London, where I was blessed to work in one of the most high-end spas in the world. We treated the stars on a daily basis, as well as sheiks and their wives and ‘the who’s who’ of the social and business circles.

My on-board New Yorkers seemed like puppy dogs in comparison. When you are spending more than £200 an hour at a day spa, you expect nothing but the best, and, if any of us faltered in any way, we knew all about it.

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It was tough in the beginning to field complaints from difficult clients, especially because I was new and a little unsure of my surroundings. But as I grew more at home in the spa, my confidence grew and I was able to manage the demands of Oscarwinning actresses’ mothers, or the exwives of the most famous rock stars.

Home turf On returning home to South Africa two and a half years later, I thought I was 100% prepared, willing and able to take on ANYONE and their complaints.

Little did I know what the Northern ‘Johannesburgers’ had in store for me.

“On returning home to South Africa two and a half years later, I thought I was 100% prepared, willing and able to take on ANYONE and their complaints. ”

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23 I can openly admit that more than one irate ‘suburban princess’ got very deep under my skin. I felt like I was right back to square one and my patience wore almost too thin on a daily basis.

But, I had previously learnt the ability to step back, assess the damage and figure out how I was going to fix the situation and this is what stood me in good stead. I always remembered that the client is king (or queen) in such matters. I was able to apologise for my being unsure about unfamiliar things, while at the same time being confident about the knowledge I had gained from years of experience in the spa industry.

I was definitively able to uphold the spa’s terms and conditions and explain to the guests why these policies were in place. I did this in a way that did not anger or upset the guest but instead gave solutions to problems and reasons as to why we did things the way we did.

This meant I had guests who trusted me and were always at ease when they were in my spa, or even just speaking to me on the phone, before they even had their spa treatments.

So now you know the short version of ‘My Life in a Spa’ although I am sure I could fill a book with my stories. I thought it would be easier to understand this article from a more human perspective; one of experience and shared understanding of complex but very serious situations.

Stand firm I need to stress how important it is that you welcome these challenging situations. If you find yourself in the midst of one – be sure to address it yourself. Do not run away and find someone more senior to do it for you, because you will never learn that way. Take that bully client by the horns and show her that you know your stuff! You will not be sorry.

Yes, these situations are hard to deal with, especially if you have not had years of practice and it is indeed an art form that must be mastered if you are going to survive

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in this industry, regardless of what position you fill in the spa. If you are a spa leader or manager, remember that EVERYONE in the spa must be given an understanding of how to field and deal with complaints.

This mentality will ensure that complaints are dealt with ASAP. There is nothing worse than not being able to handle an irate person on the spot. If you don’t, the client will go home and simmer and the situation will escalate beyond comprehension. Alternately (and even worse), the guest will become aloof and indifferent, never to return. With spas and salons on every corner these days we just simply cannot afford for this to happen.

Key points What is a difficult person? Someone whose behaviour causes difficulties and conflict for yourself and others.

Thus, dealing with difficult people is dealing with difficult behaviour.

How to do this? Firstly, stay calm.

Secondly, always remain diplomatic and polite, as getting angry will only make the upset guest even angrier.

Always show willingness to resolve the problem or conflict.

Try to think like the guest.

Remember that their problems and concerns are the most important.

Always say: “I understand you are upset, how can I assist you in

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correcting this situation?” Speak slowly and calmly; but do not sound patronising. Be firm with your answers, but understanding.

Arm yourself with as much knowledge as possible, about all areas of the spa and the operations thereof.

If you know everything about your job you will be able to handle any situation with ease and from an informed perspective.

Remember that we cannot control other people’s behaviour, but we can control our response to their behaviour.

We don’t know what else has happened in someone else’s day or week or year; so we cannot determine how anyone will react in any given situation that presents itself.

By controlling our own behaviour

we will be able to set right anything that has gone a little pear-shaped.

I can say with the utmost conviction that if you are able to turn a situation around and fix a client complaint, she or he will be a client for life, because they will know you are willing to go to the ends of the earth to resolve a dispute or mishap and ensure that it never (hopefully) happens again. PB Philippa Abbott is the owner of Spa Sense Consultants. A qualified somatologist and advanced make-up artist, Abbott has worked for two of the UK’s leading spa brands and spent five and a half years with the Spas of Distinction Group in South Africa as part of the management team. Email Philippa@spasense.co.za

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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SHINE ON

Nestled at the foot of the picturesque Helderberg Mountain in Somerset West, the recently launched spa at Silver Forest Boutique Lodge was conceived to provide a 5-star experience, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

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ears ago, husband and wife team, Penny Rodenhurst and Keith Barnett, had planned to open a spa at their hotel in the UK but ended up selling the hotel in 2008 just before the recession.

“Having gone through all that learning about spas was of great interest to us as Keith and I love to go to great spas,” explains Rodenhurst.

“We find the hydro therapy part of a spa, along with treatments and time out, to be an incredibly rejuvenating experience. In this modern day everyone needs relaxation time in a wonderful environment to maintain balance in their lives.”

Rodenhurst is an entrepreneurial business woman with no background in beauty. “I believe this is why Silver Forest Spa is getting so much attention, as it was designed by myself from a client comfort point of view and not by anyone with experience in the industry.

“Silver Forest is a single beautiful property with eight luxury suites, four self-catering cottages and our wonderful spa in the middle. We also

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have our bar lounge restaurant area so people can get yummy food and drinks too. At Silver Forest we are not about forcing people to eat light meals and detox, rather we offer a place where clients can relax and really enjoy their time away from the norm.”

Tranquility Rodenhurst’s spa design was inspired by the beautiful trees that surround the Lodge.

“Our spa provides a tranquil setting, with a modern, nature-inspired interior featuring calm tones of greys and greens,” she continues. “The treatment rooms are named after the four seasons. Each room has a different colour theme: green for Spring, gold for Summer, bronze for Autumn, and black, white and silver for Winter. The rooms all have a lightbox on the ceiling above the beds, with a beautiful view of a tree canopy.”

The hand and nail area is situated in the luxurious relaxation lounge and is designed for total comfort and relaxation, with sumptuous wingback chairs and built in sinks for soaking the

feet. These convert into foot stools for total comfort during manicures.

Thermal suite Adjacent to the relaxation lounge is Silver Forest Spa’s thermal suite, consisting of two large Jacuzzis, a cool hydro jet pool with very powerful massage jets, a rasul and steam room, a sauna, a cold bucket shower, and an outdoor pool and relaxation patio.

Guests who use the rasul are given specific exfoliators and muds that they self-apply. Once that is showered off, they then apply a mud (either for detoxifying, nourishing, firming or deep moisturizing) and relax, while the steam in the rasul generates for 20 minutes.

“The mud works wonders on your body, and at the end of the 20-minute steam cycle, the rain showers from the roof to wash off the muds in an invigorating rain forest style.

“I believe our thermal suite differentiates us as compared to other spas in the Western Cape as, while there are several that offer similar facilities, there are none in in Somerset

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Spa at a glance West and the Winelands. Our thermal suite facilities are offered free to any guests who book in for any full body treatment.

“We also have a colour therapy room for total relaxation, to be used either before or after treatments, with a colour changing LED light wash. Colour has many benefits and lying in this room for 20 minutes leaves you totally relaxed,” comments Rodenhurst.

In the detail She believes that Silver Forrest Spa’s attention to detail and the encouragement given to guests to linger and totally relax sets it apart.

“Essentially we are interested in looking after the wellbeing of our clients. We also offer the daily and monthly essentials such as manicures, pedicures, waxing and results driven facials alongside our fabulous body pampering treatments and massages.

Because we have dining at Silver Forest, guests can sit and enjoy a lovely local wine, or a bottle of fizz, with some sumptuous food as part of their day.

“When I ask guests what they like about Silver Forest, they say it is a combination of things – the music with the birds, rainforest vibes, décor, lightboxes, therapist

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• Opened: November 2016 • Owners: Penny Rodenhurst and Keith Barnett • Size: 350 square metres • Number of treatment rooms: four – two couples, two singles • Number of full-time therapists: four • Brands: QMS, SIX, optiphi, Spalicious, OPI, Elim and Cerepil uniforms, comfortable beds, and duvets as opposed to towels – along with the beautiful tranquil setting, highly qualified staff and friendly atmosphere.”

Silver Forest Spa’s treatment menu is purposely in-depth and descriptive.

“Our menu really takes the client on a journey before they even book their treatment; this way they know what to expect and can really choose the correct treatments to meet their needs.

“We want clients to arrive excited for their treatments and try to encourage them to use all their senses, from reading the menu, to smelling the fragrances of the products, to looking at the beautiful environment they are in, to listening to the music and birds, to tasting the complimentary waters and fruits, and feeling the therapist’s touch.

All these elements are so important for their journey here at Silver Forest,” concludes Rodenhurst. PB

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5

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Couples treatment room with skylight

2 Pedicure station 3 Relaxation room 4 Rasul 5 Chromatherapy room

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Healing with colour Chromatherapy is the science of using colours to adjust body vibrations to frequencies that result in health and harmony. Marisa Dimitriadis provides some ‘colourful’ insight.

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ight is composed of colours and comprises chemical and emotional components, as it releases heat, electricity and magnetism. Together with its ‘ingredients’ of colours, light can be used for healing the mind, body and spirit. This is the holistic healing concept behind chromatherapy or colour therapy.

“Chromatherapy, when used for healing the body, utilises colours based on their electrical and heating properties. ”

Each colour possesses frequencies of a specific vibration, and each vibration is related to different physical symptoms. Our bodies need the sun’s light to live, so, when used correctly, this most ancient healing therapy can help channel the energy of the sunlight to boost the natural healing abilities of the body.

Different colours have different effects on the mind and body. The power and calibre of every object are determined by the colour of that object.

Emotional response Modern colour therapy is known to stimulate emotions and feelings such as: 1. Joy and creativity (Yellow) 2. Vitality and passion (Red)

3. Optimism and expansion (Orange) 4. Healing and growth (Green)

Hot and cold Chromatherapy, when used for healing the body, utilises colours based on their electrical and heating properties. Some colours actually cool and soothe the nerves (e.g. dark-violet, indigo etc.), while some can excite or heat the blood (e.g. red-orange or dark red etc).

In colour therapy, red is used to stimulate and increase the action of arterial blood. Hence drugs which are red, such as capsicum, cloves, musk etc. are used for stimulating oxygen in the blood. Red glass or red paint in rooms can be used for exciting and cheering up patients. In fact, red coloured baths and red light therapy have actually helped patients recover from a complete paralytic state. Red also activates collagen cells, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Yellow can be used to help a person feel spiritually grounded while maintaining a positive outlook. It helps people feel light-hearted, optimistic and creative. Yellow drugs are mainly emetics (they can induce nausea and vomiting). Indian hemp (cannabis), blood root (North American plant of the poppy family), and senna etc. are a few laxatives that are yellow or yellowred in colour. Yellow sunlight can be enhanced through yellow glass to help treat patients suffering from chronic bronchial irritation and colds etc.

Feeling blue Blue and violet colours have cooling and electrical properties. Drugs like

Professional Beauty May 2017

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belladonna, blue rocket, foxglove, etc. are used to treat diarrhoea, delirium and diuresis, that are a result of overheating of the body. Green tea is actually a mix of blue and yellow and is known for its antioxidant and astringent properties that help boost immunity. Blue light colour therapy cools down inflammation, relieves migraines, lowers fevers, helps high blood pressure, stops bleeding and calms strong emotions like anger and hysteria. It is effective in reducing acne because the blue light kills bacteria. It is an effective antiseptic.

Green colours are used to induce calm; they affect blood pressure and all conditions of the heart. Green is a nature and earth colour representing healing and growth.

Orange tones increase energy levels and improve the mood; this colour is used stimulate mental activity while inducing happy emotions.

White is the perfect colour of balance and harmony.

Known as ‘the Divine Light’, white light is one of the fastest ways to bring about healing Colours can heal, but they can also have disastrous effects. For example, when the nerves are over-excited or irritable, or when a person is suffering from palpitations, high fever, inflammation and neuralgia etc., yellow or orange reddish tones must not be used. Similarly, blue and violet must be avoided in cases of paralysis, gout, rheumatism or colds etc. as these colours are extremely cooling in nature.

Chromatherapy in the spa The most obvious use of chromatherapy in the spa is the colour palette chosen for different areas of the spa. Use colours carefully as they will either enhance or destroy the treatment by the way they make the guest feel.

Baths, showers, Jacuzzi or hydrotherapy use LED technology to create a colour, either one that changes in a specific sequence to match the treatment effects, or a colour that stays constant for a specific treatment.

Sauna, Rasul and steam rooms can make effective use of LED technology to enhance the treatments and in some cases have tremendous healing effects, like an infra-red sauna. PB Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.

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It’s what you do with your technology…

Chris Parker makes the case for using technology in the salon and/or spa.

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hy do you have a car?

Presumably to get you from A to B quickly and safely at a time that suits you. Why do you have a beautiful brushed steel designer toaster? Presumably to make beautifully browned toast.

Why do you have a 50-inch flat screen smart TV? Presumably to watch programmes, movies and maybe You Tube videos.

“A salon or spa that acquires technology potentially has a competitive advantage over one that does not. ”

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Using the car example above, one may argue that I don’t need a car to get from A to B, I can use either a bus, train or Uber. The focus therefore is not on the mechanism itself but rather on the outcome of transport from A to B. Similarly, you might have other ways of making toast or watching your favourite shows, the point is that the focus is not on the items themselves but what they allow you to achieve or experience.

Again using the example of transport, we are way past the question of whether transport is a luxury or not. If I don’t have transport then in most cases I can’t get to work, in which case I will not be able to earn

and therefore not be able to provide for the basic needs of myself and my family.

What do you want?

Where am I going with all of this when this article is meant to be about salon and spa software? Well, before I get to that I want to ask why you own a salon or spa? What do you want out of it? What does the world look like when you achieve your goals? Do you have a plan as to how you will go about achieving them?

Do you want wealth and fame? Do you want to build up your business and sell it? Do you want to expand and have branches all over the country?

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31 Do you want a business that looks after itself so that you have time to spend with your family and provides you with a stable second source of income?

How you answer these questions determines how you go about achieving what you want. If you have not yet clearly answered these questions for yourself then the default assumption is that (like any business) you need to make more money than you spend because this is the minimum requirement to stay in business.

How do you get what you want?

Why do you use technology in your salon or spa? Is it because you have to? Borrowing from the transport example again, if a candidate for a job does not have transport to get to work then they will most likely lose the job opportunity to someone who does have the competitive advantage of transport.

In the same way, a salon or spa that acquires technology potentially has a competitive advantage over one that does not. Therefore, at a very base level, there may be a need to ‘keep up with the Joneses’.

But, what if two salons use the same technology? Is the playing field

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level? The answer is yes and no. Both salons have the same potential, but it’s how each goes about using their technology that sets them apart. I am always surprised by how our many ESP users go about using their technology differently – the same technology is squeezed in different ways to gain a competitive advantage.

So, what’s the difference? Very simply put, technology alone does not sufficiently accelerate your capabilities if everyone has the same capabilities, but rather how you use it does. Read what Amanda Cromhout from Truth Consulting says on how having the same loyalty scheme as someone else does not mean you will achieve the same success. She refers to the Iceberg Effect: “Above the waterline represents the customer-facing loyalty programme value proposition. This can be easily accessed by the public and copied or tweaked by competitors for their own programme.

“Below the waterline is where the magic happens by capturing customers’ behavioural data. In a retail environment, for example, loyalty programmes normally require customers to swipe their loyalty card – every swipe captures point of sale data. How this data is used is where the real power and competitive edge lies,” says Cromhout.

So it is with technology and management software. The real power lies not only in what it can do, but in what you do with it.

How do you get the most out of your technology?

Well, it depends on who you are and what you want to achieve in your business. Once you have answered this question then you simply put the technology you have at your disposal to work.

The clearer your vision and the better you are at leveraging your technology will determine to a great extent how successful you are.

The most important thing I would like you to take away from this article is that you need to approach everything you do with an attitude of intelligence. This attitude shift will put your technology in its rightful place as a tool in your artillery to help you achieve your goals.

A lack of intelligence would be to acquire technology and then behave as if you have none. PB Chris Parker is currently MD at ESP Salon & Spa Software, where is has worked for the past 20 years.

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New Zapier integration rolls out Connected software solutions are key to helping manage and organise any modern salon or spa in terms of marketing, sales, CRM (Customer Relationship Management) and accounting.

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hoosing a spa and salon software platform that can integrate with the above applications can make management of a spa or salon easier and more automated. A case in point is ChiDesk’s recently introduced Zapier integration, which allows ChiDesk to easily integrate with over 850 other online platforms.

Says SpaGuru’s Gary Halberstadt: “Essentially, Zapier acts as the middleman between our software and other third-parties and allows our clients to put together sophisticated automations without any coding required.

“For instance, many clients use the MailChimp platform for their email marketing requirements. The benefits of using something like MailChimp are that you get full tracking information and engagement statistics based on the campaigns you send.”

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With the Zapier integration, ChiDesk clients can setup automations to ensure that, as they add clients to ChiDesk, they are automatically added to a list of their choice in MailChimp. This means there is no more manual importing of lists or other tedious tasks to attend to when they want to send out email campaigns.

Halberstadt continues: “For clients using a sales or CRM platform like SalesForce, Pipedrive or Highrise, you can achieve a similar automated workflow for new leads, won deals and other contact related information.

“Along with Zapier integration we’re also rolling out a new SageOne accounting integration in the next month.

SageOne is the latest online accounting platform from Sage and is the preferred replacement for their older Pastel desktop solutions. Our new integration helps automate your accounting process by importing journal entries directly into SageOne at the end of each cash up.

The system takes into account your sales, voucher, course and loyalty liabilities, along with all your normal receipt transactions for the cash up period. Your accountant can easily review all transactions from the accountant’s area in SageOne to ensure the postings are as expected.

This helps save them the time spent processing these entries manually.”

He notes that there are many exciting software solutions available to business owners to help them automate tedious tasks and create customised workflows to support the way they want to run their business.

“Your spa or salon software of choice should not limit your ability to make use of these platforms. At SpaGuru, we are actively investing our time in ensuring ChiDesk clients can take full advantage of these various solutions,” concludes Halberstadt. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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Cape Town salon increases online capability Despite a sizeable social media following, BellaMia Nail Specialist in Cape Town was experiencing problems with online engagement.

Owner Elana Jooste sought a software solution that could help yield new sales and grow her active client base.

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rior to approaching SalonBridge, Elana Jooste of BellaMia Nail Specialist would accept appointments via phone or WhatsApp. Says SalonBridge founder and MD, Mark Raa: “This meant that if Elana was busy with a client, she could only respond to appointment requests after hours, or when she had a few minutes to spare. We helped her in five distinct ways, firstly by designing a custom web page for BellaMia, to provide an overview

of the business, location and services.

Information can be updated from within the SalonBridge system and their web page updates automatically.”

The next step was to enable online bookings by incorporating SalonBridge’s standard ‘Book now’ button onto the web page.

Raa continues: “Thereafter we set up an automated system that allows Elana to send out custom SMS and email reminders 24 hours before appointments, to reduce customer no shows. Elana can now also

send out marketing SMS for her monthly specials, as well as birthday messages. If she wants to create an email campaign, her client database can be exported from SalonBridge and imported into MailChimp for the most effective email strategy.”

The SalonBridge app allows Jooste to view her appointment calendar from anywhere, anytime.

Jooste comments: “I love that my clients can be notified of their appointments and my clients are delighted that they can plan their own bookings online.” PB

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STAYING POWER

Established way back in 1980, East London beauty salon, The Beauty Clinic, is still going strong and boasts an unusually large number of brands, reports Joanna Sterkowicz.

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hen Gwen Pietersma first opened her beauty practice in one room in her Southernwood home in East London a year after graduating from Jo Stephen’s College in 1979, the beauty industry was relatively new in South Africa.

“At that time, therapists, in addition to performing treatments, had the difficult task of educating the public about skincare,” explains Pietersma.

“This was particularly true in East London, where there were no beauty schools. As my business was expanding

and I needed staff, I decided to open the first beauty school in East London, which I ran for 10 years.”

While training aspiring therapists, it became evident to Pietersma that larger premises were required for The Beauty Clinic, so she relocated it to St Luke’s Road in Southernwood, where it remained until 2000.

“Since those early days, women have become more beauty conscious and consequently, the East London industry has mushroomed and evolved and the city now boasts numerous thriving modern salons,” states Pietersma.

Gertie Nel, Julie Blue, Gwen Pietersma and Cheryleen Webber

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Passionate involvement She believes that it is her passion for the industry and personal approach to the business that has ensured the salon’s longevity. “My husband, Peter, has now inherited this mantle as I no longer perform treatments on clients, preferring to teach new therapists The Beauty Clinic treatment methods.

Peter manages the salon and strives for clients’ satisfaction and happiness through our treatments and our products. He had retired before we were married and so was ideal for the job. However, I am still the ‘paymaster’ and keep my finger on the pulse of salon, doing admin. This allows me time to source new products and trends in the global industry.”

She believes that The Beauty Clinic is the leader in terms of bringing new beauty products to East London. “This fact also enthuses our staff and gives clients a wide choice of products, while making them aware of the benefits that modern technologies have brought to the beauty profession.”

To this end, The Beauty Clinic stocks a wide range of products: Matis, RégimA, Nimue, San Soucis, optiphi, Environ, Kalahari, Aloe Ferox, Rooibos, Hannon, D’orleac, IBD, GAIA and Derma Cell, as well as many other beauty aids such as Studex, Fabulous

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Aire and The Beauty Clinic branded foot files and body exfoliating sponges. While overheads are very high, Pietersma insists on keeping the cupboards well stocked at all times.

Expansion Parking facilities became problematic in Southernwood, so The Beauty Clinic relocated to the more central Berea suburb in 2000, where it remains today, with parking facilities for 20 vehicles. At the time of the move, building extensions were undertaken to incorporate 10 treatment rooms (staffed by 10 full-time therapists), a tanning room, as well as a nail and hairdressing salon.

Of special interest at The Beauty Clinic is the size of the treatment rooms, which measure 3.5 metres x 4 meters; they each house a plinth, facial bed, hand basin, air conditioner, ceiling fan and piped music. Therapists are encouraged to display their diplomas, as well as their achievements on their training of the various product ranges.

“The ambience throughout the salon is calm and relaxing, modern with a touch of old world charm,” comments Pietersma. “As we still adhere to old systems, we have three incoming lines and this assists in giving clients instant attention when they are wanting to book appointments. We have clients who have been coming

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“As my business was expanding and I needed staff, I decided to open the first beauty school in East London, which I ran for 10 years.”

to The Beauty Clinic for 37 years and now we have their daughters and granddaughters as clients.

“Although we purposely keep our prices low, our motto is: ‘We give more value’. This keeps our large staff busy and the retail sales on which we have loyalty programmes gives us our cash

flow and our staff commission.

“The Beauty Clinic currently has a staff of 19, who are very important to Peter and myself. We want clients to know our employees are part of The Beauty Clinic family. Our head therapist, Julie Blue, has worked at The Beauty Clinic for 18 years, having twice gone to Paris for extra Matis training. She is our Matis queen.”

Senior therapist, Cheryleen Webber, was recently recognised by Nimue as one of its top 45 therapists worldwide. PB

Professional Beauty May 2017

DURBAN 21 & 22 MAY 2017 GREYVILLE CONVENTION CENTRE This year Professional Beauty is changing, bringing you not only the leading brands from South Africa but also a new and exciting range of seminars and workshops, providing education, innovation and inspiration.

This is your exclusive invitation to join us at Professional Beauty Durban. Giving you the opportunity to see the latest in beauty innovation.

Compare the differences in products, from price to quality, engaging all your senses and bringing all the suppliers together under one roof, saving you time and money.

• Gain expert knowledge • Great show specials that save you money • Network, attend seminars and conferences • See top brands • Experience new trends and techniques • Exposure to 100’s of products and a wide variety of exhibitors • The best in new product innovation and ideas If you work in beauty, hair or spa and wellness, you can’t afford to miss it. If you still need to register for your free ticket, or if you want to register your colleagues, simply visit www.probeauty.co.za

Engage all your senses, register now!

New Venue

New Concept

Visit www.probeauty.co.za to get the full details on this must attend event and book your place for these superb seminars.

Education Innovation Inspiration Our Seminars This year Professional Beauty is changing, bringing you not only the leading brands from South Africa but also a new and exciting range of seminars and workshops to give you education, innovation, and inspiration.

There will be four seminar rooms giving you the opportunity to give your knowledge base a massive boost.

BUSINESS SKILLS & KNOWLEDGE

ADVANCED TREATMENTS & MEDICAL AESTHETICS

SAAHSP – INDUSTRY ESSENTIALS

NAIL TECHNOLOGY & TECHNIQUES

• Salon Tips and Mentorship • How to increase business & maximise opportunities • Managing Money and increasing profits • Staff & Soft Skills, motivation & retention • Social Media & Innovative Marketing

• Medical Facials - The best kept anti-ageing secret • Beauty and Wellness • All in the correct diagnosis • The Power of Thermocoagulation • Redermalisation and PRP • Males Under Pressure • Selecting Aesthetic Devices

• Non Invasive Cellulite and Fat Reduction • Going back to the basics • Labour Law and its challenges • Understanding Social Media for your business

• Tiny Added Touches • Polished Perfection • Creative Expressions • Performance through Consistency • Up to Scratch

Reg

w for o n r e t s i

your

T E K C I REE T .co.za

F

@

auty

robe www.p

* Seminar programme subject to change.

professional beauty durban

38

Ready, get set…Show!

It’s all happening in Durban from 21 and 22 May at the Greyville Convention Centre – the new home for KZN’s biggest beauty event, Professional Beauty Durban.

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ollowing on from the success of a revamped Professional Beauty Cape Town Show held earlier this year, the Professional Beauty Durban Show looks set to re-energise and inspire the KZN beauty community with its new venue and format.

Not only will the very latest in skincare, nails, body care, medical

aesthetics devices, hair care and salon/ spa equipment be on display, but there will be four informative seminar programmes – Advanced Therapist & Medical Aesthetics; Business Skills; Nails; and Skincare & Equipment Innovation. All seminars will have an entry fee of only R75 in advance and booking details are on the Professional Beauty website (www.probeauty.co.za).

Show preview AnonaMiss Beauty Emporium will introduce the new Manic Panic Creamtones Perfect Pastels hair colour range. Show visitors are urged to come to the stand and get their colour on by trying out temporary hair colour gels and the new glitter lips trend.

Best Lasers Best Lasers will be launching the FIRST Alma Beauty Reboost™ in Africa. This portable device is a musthave for complete facial rejuvenation treatments. Launch special prices will be offered to any trade visiting the Best Lasers stand.

Bio Sculpture Gel Bio Sculpture Gel is proud to announce the launch of the Chaotic Wonderland, the Spring/Summer Collection 2017 at Professional Beauty Durban. This bold and daring collection focuses on rebellious beauty and offers a fun look for Spring/Summer 2017 with an edge.

engineering technologies, designed to promote therapeutic skin health on the Biomedical Emporium stand. Discover which products and professional treatment protocols can be prescribed without a prescription to clients for all skin types and conditions.

Calgel Leading professional nail brand Calgel is a soft-gel nail product that gently promotes healthy growth, leaving no damage to natural nails.

Biomedical Emporium Experience the biotechnology skincare range based on tissue

Creative Glamour Creative Glamour will be launching their new blending sponge. Receive up to 20% discount on all products and receive a free lash glue to the value of R90 when purchasing over the value of R500.

www.biomedicalemporium.com

Professional Beauty May 2017

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professional beauty durban

39 DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care, a leader in quality Skin Care products, is launching the DermaFix LED Masque, a versatile treatment tool which helps target skin care concerns through the power of photomodulation/phototherapy.

ESP Salon & Spa Solutions South Africa’s foremost Salon & Spa Management Software, ESP, was established in 1994 and has always focused exclusively on the salon and spa industry to create the most comprehensive management system in the world. A system proudly developed in South Africa with their own hands, ESP prides itself in offering affordable software, support and training for everyone. iKhokha.com iKhokha is the most cost effective way to accept card payments.

Simply plug the iKhokha card machine into your smartphone or tablet and take a card payment anywhere. Additional functionality includes the ability to track sales, sell airtime and even take a cash advance.

Suitable for any size operation, iKhokha is the ultimate payment system for your business. Get paid anytime anywhere by simply plugging iKhokha into your smartphone. It’s a card machine in your pocket.

Kalahari Spa Promotions for professionals will be available for new and existing clients.

Lamprobe Blemish Removal Lamprobe is not limited to just removing skin tags, dilated capillaries and sebaceous lesions – it offers electrolysis effective on all hair types, on all skin types and on any colour of hair. The Lamprobe is effective for surgeons who can now treat patients without unnecessary anaesthesia. An all-in-one device for all aesthetic practices.

Metamorphosis Distributors t/a MC MUD Airbrush demonstrations will be conducted to showcase MUD’s high performance units and Airbrush liquids.

Visitors to the stand will exposed to the launch of all new MUD products.

All MUD products will be on a 25% discount at the show.

Milk Solutions Milk Solutions comprises four ranges of professional, purpose-made mani-pedi beauty products. The brand combines traditional and nontraditional beauty ingredients with advanced scientific technologies and processes to deliver effective, visible results. All four ranges of parabenfree specialist manicure and pedicure products – Milk & Honey, Fruit, Garden, and Professional – cover the full scope of targeted in-salon and at-home beauty products treatments needed to keep hands and feet looking sensational.

Moyou Africa Moyou now has new categories for its nail art designs which allow each client to choose their own style depending on their likes. The style categories include: Urban, Trendy, Casual, Ethnic, Vintage, Bridal, Special Events and Glam.

Nail Therapy SA

Visit the Nail Therapy stand for free demonstrations on its latest nail art products, course specials and the launch of Winter Gel polish colours. nailsforu A wonderful new, easy to remove LED/UV cured Gel Top Coat applied over your favourite brand of basecoat and polish will be launched at the show.

It promotes a smooth gel like effect, improves performance and longevity, and provides a protective, hard-wearing, durable polish overlay, with a magnificent high gloss surface shine. It is toluene, formaldehyde and DBP Free.

SAAHSP The South African Association of Health & Skincare Professionals – the Professional Body representing the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry in South Africa.

STUDEX APS will be demonstrating to salon owners how offering a STUDEX® ear piercing service can increase both income and foot traffic into their businesses.

The systems are very easy to use, extremely hygienic and can be used for belly and nose piercing, as well as for ear piercing. STUDEX looks forward to meeting both new and existing customers. PB

PREREGISTER TO AVOID THE ENTRANCE FEE SIMPLY VISIT www.probeauty.co.za online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty May 2017

treatment review

40

Marvellous massage for Mom-to-Be

Now in her third trimester, Bailey Schneider heads to the Spa at the Twelve Apostles Hotel in Cape Town for some serious pampering in the form of the Mama Mio Pregnancy Massage treatment.

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rior to the treatment, therapist Zama Mollie conducted a detailed consultation with me and emphasised that Mama Mio has a strict ‘no nasties’ policy, which is the brand’s assurance that every product is the most potent, most effective and cleanest.

“Mama Mio is the leading pregnancy skincare brand in the world,” continued Mollie. “In addition, Mama Mio has a relaxing, pregnancy-safe massage protocol. For instance, we don’t perform any deep tissue massage movements, nor do we do hacking, cupping or vibrations.”

She explained that any form of heat, such as electric blanket and warmed mitts, is completely contra-indicated in pregnancy treatments.

Mollie then positioned me in a lateral lying position on my right side, with my left leg bent at a 90’ angle and supported by a pillow. My right leg lay straight.

“For the massage, I’m going to use the Mama Mio Omega Massage Oil. This massage medium contains Vitamin E to support the structural network of the skin, something that is very important in pregnancy. It is also infused with Mama M i o ’ s

signature fragrance, Gravida, which means ‘pregnancy’ in Latin and is a blend of 10 pregnancy specific essential oils that provide physical and psychological benefits to the client,” said Mollie.

She commenced the treatment by massaging the lower calf muscle of my right leg, purposely excluding the ankles and feet to avoid acupuncture pressure points. Mollie then performed a gluteal stretch to relieve the tension in my hips.

“What is unique to Mama Mio protocol is that we ‘walk’ the Omega Massage Oil onto each area by putting one hand over the other,” commented Mollie.

She then started to work on my lower back, on one side of the spine and performed a movement called ‘Figure of Eight’ to provide relief to the sciatic nerve, which compresses during pregnancy. This was followed by a neck and shoulder stretch.

For the arm massage, Mollie stood in front me and worked all the way from the wrist to the shoulder. She also did drainage movements around the wrists for water retention. The entire massage procedure was then repeated on my other side.

Once the massage was finished, Mollie put me into the upright Fowler’s Positon and performed a scalp massage, using the Mama Mio Tender Touch Facial Oil, which contains Borage and Rosehip Seed Oil. She then applied two of Mama Mio’s hero products – Tummy Rub Oil and Tummy Rub Butter – very lightly, in feather-like movements onto the abdomen, while recommending these products for home care, as well as Pregnancy Boob Tube, which she applied over my décolleté area.

This massage was an absolute treat and I felt super-relaxed afterwards. I would like to repeat it in each month of my pregnancy.

Contact Poise Brands: 011 033 0500

Professional Beauty May 2017

online at www.probeauty.co.za

pregnancy treatments

42

When with child

It is said that there is no better time to pamper a woman then when she is pregnant. Fortunately, there are some in-salon beauty treatments that are considered pregnancy safe when performed under the correct conditions and using specific products, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

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outh African success story, aromatherapy oils are allowed to be the Mommy Wellness Day Spa used on a pregnant client and even franchise, is testament to the while they are breast feeding. fact that there is a definite “Contra-indicated treatments for market for in-salon treatments pregnancy are hot stone massage and for pregnant clients. reflexology. We do not induce labour Says founder Izelle Louw: “Mommy through reflexology. Rather we work Wellness is a brand concept focused closely with a clinical reflexologist on providing women, particularly who can induce labour if a client expectant mothers, with a cosy requests it.” haven to receive treatments that are According to Louw, for clients both mom and baby friendly. Our who’ve just given birth, Mommy services include pre-natal and postWellness offers a Time Out Massage. If natal treatments and baby massage the client has had a caesarian section, courses.” she can only have the massage after Established in 2012, Mommy her six-week check-up. Those who’ve Wellness now has five spas in South had natural labour can come straight Africa, a branch in Windhoek, Namibia after for the massage. and one in Bahrain. The latter is a Speciality brand master franchise that plans to open The professional spa another 10 branches in the whole of treatments and retail the GCC (Gulf Cooperation Council) products from British region. brand, Mama Mio, Louw confirms that there is a big have been designed to need for pregnancy massage and that improve the tone and the Mommy Wellness growth has been elasticity of the skin rapid over the last five years. “We and protect it during train our therapists to be confident the nine-month stretch in knowing what they can provide and after. and do for a client. If the therapist is Says Janine Janse unsure, then the client will not feel van Rensburg of comfortable and safe. So the process distributor, Poise starts with the training of the therapist Brands: “Mama Mio and then educating our clients.” prides itself on Mommy Wellness therapists being ‘the are trained in all aspects pregnancy skin experts’ of pregnancy massage and is the number and baby massage. one pregnancy “We massage “We massage skincare brand in pregnant clients pregnant clients the world. With up to 40 weeks its strict ‘No and, in fact, up to 40 weeks and, nasties’ policy, you can also in fact, you can also Mama Mio was massage them massage them while created to make while they are the client look in labour,” states they are in labour.” and feel gorgeous Louw. while keeping her She explains and her baby safe that it’s essential and sound.” to know which

Professional Beauty May 2017

Mama Mio Pregnancy Spa Treatments include: Gorgeous Glow Pregnancy Facial; Mama Mio Pregnancy Massage (see page 40); Lucky Legs Lighten Up (a mineral-rich foot soak, exfoliation and massage for lower legs and feet to help with poor circulation, water retention and the tiring effects of carrying an extra load); and Gorgeous Glow Top to Toe (a complete top to toe spa experience).

The brand’s retail products include: Tummy Rub Butter; Pregnancy Boob Tube; Lucky Legs; and Keep Calm Nipple Balm.

Specific treatments South African spa range, Spalicious, has three specific in salon treatments – Lomi Lomi Preggy Massage; Preggie Pedi; and Preggie Belly Bump Wrap.

“In the Lomi Lomi Preggy Massage, we use massage movements specific to a pregnant lady, which are adapted according to how far into her pregnancy she is. We use one of three flavours of Spalicious’ three purpose oils, either Jasmine, Hawaiian Coconut or Marula oil. All are beautifully safe during pregnancy. We also apply muscle relief gel to the back and legs once massage has been done to speed up blood circulation and give the feeling of light legs,” says Spalicious founder, Marisa Dimitriadis.

For the Preggie Belly Bump Wrap, the therapist exfoliates, massages and masks the body but in different sections and areas.

Dimitriadis continues: “We

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pregnancy treatments

43 work our way from the back to the belly. When we finally get to the belly we use a divine pink grapefruit, spirulina and ginkgo biloba powder that gelifies and then sets like icing, making the removal super easy and fast. The pregnant mom will feel light and energised post treatment.”

Caring cream Thalgo’s Defi Fermete Stretch Mark Cream helps to correct and prevent the appearance of stretch marks.

Its combination of Marine Glycoprotein and Anethum Graveolens works to restore the quality of the skin’s structure, while innovative Fibrelax technology targets hyper-contracted cells, a characteristic of stretch marks, to help restore the skin’s capacity to withstand stretching.

Feeling supple and protected, the skin is more resistant to tension and the reduction of developing stretch marks is visibly improved.

Dealing with hyperpigmentation Pregnant women will often develop hyperpigmentation.

DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care Ferulic + C + E provides the skin with a concentrated dose of Vitamin C + E, which is a proven science.

Says DermaFix MD, Ursula Hunt: “This formulation targets hyperpigmentation and the addition of Ferulic Acid furthermore boosts anti-oxidant functionality, providing essential protection against freeradical attack that leads to skin ageing.

“DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care Skin ResQ is the next generation of a weightless nourishing emollient blend with Murumuru Seed Butter and CoQ10.

“This superior formulation offers anti-oxidant protection keeping the skin moisturised, hydrated and supple for the prevention of stretch mark formation on the body,” explains Hunt.

“Formulated for universal use, it rapidly penetrates into the skin for all day protection, without the sensation of a heavy greasy film.”

Post-pregnancy weight One of the most radical contouring result treatments for excess curves, cellulite and centimetre loss is Phytomer’s Sculptzone Wrap, which targets the abdomen, buttocks and thigh areas.

Says Ayesha Rajah of distributor, A&I Importers: “Sculptzone promotes contouring and triggers a lypolytic effect, while prompting detoxifaction and promoting drainage and R

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Professional Beauty May 2017

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reducing the appearance of cellulite.

“Included in Sculptzone is the Thermo Sculpting Wrap, which contains Pepper Slim Active, an ingredient that is eight times more effective than caffeine with regards to weight-loss. Sculptzone’s Phytomer Contouring Massage Concentrate promotes drainage and reduces the orange peel effect. Lastlly, CelluliAttack is a drastic treatment for cellulite and visible dimpling.”

Aesthetic treatments To combat stretch marks, Hitech Lasers offers the Lumenis Photofractional bespoke solution.

Say Hitech’s Naomi Olivier: “The Lumenis Photofractional’s unique technology combines two solutions, IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) and ResurFX

Professional Beauty May 2017

non-ablative laser skin resurfacing, so that both skin tone and texture can be treated simultaneously. Lumenis’ IPL technology on the M22 platform removes unwanted pigment from the skin. IPL’s selective pulse light energy is precisely absorbed by the targeted areas without damaging healthy skin.”

She notes that the patches of darker skin that appear during pregnancy, called melasma or mask of pregnancy, can also be effectively treated with intense pulse light on the Lumenis M22 Multi-application platform. “The light energy heats the melanin in the lesion and causes it to fragment while the surrounding cells are not affected. The melanin fragments are then absorbed by the body and eliminated.”

Regarding the treatment of stretchmarks, the ResurFX fractional laser, over a sequence of treatments, stimulates the production of new collagen and elastin fibres in the deeper layers of the skin.

Also for stretch marks is the V30 Multi-technology platform with V-RF hand piece from Medilase, which incorporates two technologies: fractional CORE (Channelled Optimal Radiofrequency Energy) and Viora’s proprietary SVC (Switching, Vacuum and Cooling) technology. CORE bipolar RF contracts tissue fibres for immediate smoothing and tightening results. Fractional RF treatments are clinically proven to be highly effective in the treatment of stretch marks.

For post pregnancy body fat changes, Medilase offers the Viora V30 Multitechnology platform.

The V-Form hand piece on the Viora V30 multi-technology platform is used for a complete non-invasive and painless body contouring, cellulite, skin tightening and unsightly sagging skin treatment. V-From works on all skin types and colours and features integrated CORE technology with complete heating depth control for the highest level of safety and comfort. The Dynamic RF system of V-Form constantly monitors all treatment parameters and adjusts settings in real time.

CORE technology features three individual RF frequency channels of different frequency depths and a 4th channel incorporating all three RF frequencies for greater depth penetration and control in one pulse.

V-Form also incorporates vacuum for the most comfortable, effective skin treatments available. PB

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teenage acne

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At face value

Professional Beauty conducts a Q&A with somatologist Claudeen Krause about the causes, manifestations and treatments for teenage acne.

Professional Beauty (PB): Why do some teenagers get acne and others not?

Claudeen Krause (CK): We know that the increased levels of androgens during puberty in both boys and girls plays a role. However, not everyone is affected equally by these increased hormone levels. In some cases the sebaceous gland activity is affected more severely than in others.

PB: What are the most common manifestations of teenage acne?

CK: The manifestations of acne include textural changes (enlarged pores and hyperkeratinisation), open and closed comedones, papules, pustules, nodules, cysts, pitted and/or hypertrophic scarring, as well as post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

In some instances the skin is highly inflamed as well.

PB: What are the different types of acne?

CK: Acne can be graded according to the types of lesions present: Grade 0 (onset) = follicular hyperkeratosis;

Professional Beauty May 2017

Grade 1 (mild) = open and closed comedones as well as papules; Grade 2 (moderate) = papules and pustules; Grade 3 (severe) = pustules and nodules; Grade 4 (very severe) = nodules and cysts as well as scars.

You also get inflammatory and noninflammatory acne, depending on the immune response.

PB: Does the treatment protocol for teenage acne differ to that of adult acne?

CK: One may treat an ageing skin with acne slightly differently and possibly

“We know that the increased levels of androgens during puberty in both boys and girls plays a role.�

Acne formation

more aggressively. More aggressive treatments such as peels reaching medium depth are not advised for teenagers. These treatments may alter skin physiology in a very young skin and might even increase the rate of ageing by stimulating increased levels of fibrous tissue and flattening the rete pecs (epithelial extensions that project into the underlying connective tissue in skin). These are the typical negative long term effects of over peeling and too frequent peeling, especially to the level of the dermis.

However, this might be justifiable in an older skin also presenting with

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teenage acne

47 photo-ageing. Another consideration is outdoor activity and photo sensitisation. To prevent sun damage, we want to limit photo-sensitising treatments and products, especially in kids participating in outdoor activities.

So more frequent superficial peels, which will accelerate cell turnover and keep the pilo sebaceous canals clear, can work well. Superficial salicylic acid peels are a favorite and work well in Grade 0, Grade 2, and even some Grade 3 acne cases. Salicylic acid is oil soluble and anti-inflammatory, which is exactly what is needed.

Superficial peels should be repeated every second week, until the skin begins to remain clear.

Slowly increase the intervals between treatments thereafter. Skin needling is also very useful in normalising keratinisation and improving scarring, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and texture. This can be introduced as soon as the inflammation and infection have been reduced. Low needle depth (0,25 - 0,5mm) is enough every five to eight weeks. Once again in an aged skin one may increase the needle depth slightly.

For more severe acne up to Grade 3, treatments may be combined with an appropriate anti-biotic prescribed by a doctor. But it’s important to consider increased photo-sensitivity as a result of some antibiotics. Your client has to remain patient as it may take three to four months before significant improvement becomes evident. Appropriate home care is essential as well. Topical treatments will not be effective for cystic acne.

This will require medical intervention.

PB: Have there been any exciting new developments in the treating of teenage acne in the last five years?

CK: Treatments with plasma generating devices are entering the market and can also be applied to acne and scarring due to their lesion removal capacity, antibacterial and regenerating effect on skin. There are devices available for medical doctors’ use as well as salon use.

PB: What active ingredients do you specifically look for in teenage acne products and treatments?

CK: The formulation as a whole ideally has to treat all the manifestations of acne. You need a daily exfoliant that is gentle enough for a young skin.

A retinoid is preferred to retinol, which is very photo-sensitising. A low concentration of salicylic and/

or mandelic acid is also good. Skin brighteners are good, such as Vitamin C, which has also proven effective in acne treatment. Anti-inflammatory ingredients that will also assist with skin repair and regeneration should be included, such as centella asciatica and chamomile. Antibacterial ingredients such as azelaic acid are also popular.

PB: What ingredients should be avoided?

CK: Stay away from high concentrations of acids for daily use, strong retinols, benzoyl peroxide and neat tea tree oil. These are photo-sensitising. Harsh surfactants in cleansers will disturb the barrier function and contribute to inflammation. Comedogenic sunblocks and make-up foundations are a big culprit.

PB: What non-topical treatments would you recommend for severe teenage acne?

CK: This will fall under a medical practitioner’s scope of practice. The doctor may choose an antibiotic, hormone treatment, cortisone or isotretinoin treatment, or a combination of more than one of these. PB Claudeen Krause is a somatologist who was previously national trainer and product specialist for Leenyx Technologies. She created SKINGEN Concepts to offer treatments to consumers and to source suitable products for distribution to professionals.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty May 2017

acne treatments

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Spoton Professional Beauty puts the focus on some high quality acne treatments available for salons.

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een acne is usually triggered by an increase in hormone levels, which sends oil production into overdrive, according to Dr. med Erich Schulte, founder of QMS Medicosmetics.

“To help prevent any long-term damage, teens should focus on a regular routine of effective deep pore cleansing, as a build-up of oil and dead skin cells create the perfect environment for acne and clogged pores to flourish. They should avoid using skin-aggravating ingredients that weaken the skin’s protective barrier function and include a nonabrasive exfoliation system that both clarifies clogged pores and stimulates cell production.

Professional Beauty May 2017

“I formulated our highly effective exfoliating fluid, Dermabrasive Gel, for highly sensitive skin, which is ideal for teenage skin as its anti-inflammatory complex relieves irritations and soothes the skin, while simultaneously purifying and balancing the skin. It is important to remember skin has a memory, so how you handle acne in your teens can have a lasting effect.”

Pure mask and simply, using extracts of horsetail and pansy to effectively combat blemishes and prevent them from recurring. The result is visibly clean, soft skin.

When skin is prone to blemishes and has an uneven appearance, the Babor Skinovage Pure Intense Purifying Mask combats impurities in the skin and refines the complexion with a mask that will reduce blemishes caused by late-onset acne (acne tarda).

This intensive mask contains salicylic acid to remove hardened, dead skin cells.

Horsetail and farnesol free the skin from impurities, while clay absorbs excess sebum.

Used once or twice a week, the mask refines the skin’s structure and clarifies the skin deep down.

Gel & Tonic 2in1 is a refreshing, oilfree cleansing gel and face tonic with the Babor-exclusive, detoxifying extract of Agrimonia eupatoria. It deep cleanses oily and blemished skin quickly

Cool peel Environ founder, Dr Des Fernandes, has long been an advocate for the benefits of treating problematic skin with serial light peels. The Environ Cool Peeling System is formulated to be slow developing so that the use of physiological stresses to cells assists in releasing growth factors. This methodology supports the natural processes of exfoliation, revealing healthier, smoother and more radiant skin.

For optimum results, the client’s skin must be treated with Environ’s topical Vitamin Step-Up system moisturisers for at least three weeks prior to a peel. Vitamin A assists in safer peeling and a speedy recovery. A full Environ consultation must be completed so as to identify if the client is contra-indicated for a peeling treatment course.

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acne treatments

49 peel maintenance kit, as well as the use of Sebuwash, Sebugel A and sun care retail products.

Laser treatment

In preparation for a peel, the client’s skin should be thoroughly cleansed and then treated with Environ Alpha Toner Forte to lower the skin’s acidity.

The peel should be thoroughly removed with Neutralising Cleanser and water and then immediately followed by the application of an Environ moisturiser and either RAD SPF 15 or Alpha Day Lotion.

To further support your young client’s journey to healthier skin, it is recommended that the professional peels be supported with a home

Alma ClearSkin, distributed

by Best Lasers, is the first technology to combine non-ablative laser with simultaneous contact cooling and vacuum technology to treat acne vulgaris safely and effectively.

Before & 9 Months After Suitable for all skin types, 4 ClearSkin Treatments Alma ClearSkin diminishes the appearance of acne scars. As pores swell from an acne-causing infection, the follicle wall can break down. A shallow break can usually heal quickly.

However, a deep break can allow the infection to spread and ultimately cause a lesion that leads to a lasting scar on the face. The severity of scarring can vary dramatically from one patient to another. Alma’s solutions give therapists and aestheticians the ability to handle both minimal and severe cases with efficiency and proven efficacy.

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acne treatment

50 Alma’s innovations combine the known effectiveness of an ablative approach with a level of patient comfort and convenience that approaches a non-ablative procedure. The solutions deliver precise, therapeutic light to the proper structure of the skin stimulating the body’s natural healing processes. This means a more comfortable treatment with maximum results and a minimal risk of adverse side effects.

Anti-seborrheic Anaclinical has two products specific to the treatment of acne and its various stages, the first being md:complexSkinClear Purifying & Antiseborrheic Solution.

Its keratolytic ingredients promote gentle skin desquamation to unclog blocked sebaceous follicles and prevent their obstruction, while antiseborrheic ingredients regulate sebum production. Antimicrobial, bactericidal, fungicidal and antiinflammatory active ingredients limit the proliferation of the bacteria responsible for acne appearance (Propionibacterium. Acnes).

Bionic:skinClear Acne & Scar Eraser counteracts all acne factors and promotes a clear complexion, helping prevent future breakouts. It clears congested pores, neutralises bacteria and reduces redness and inflammation, dramatically minimising scar texture and restoring normal skin colour.

Big fix The DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care MD Prescriptives Range includes MD Prescriptives Mandelic Cleanser and MD Prescriptives Mandelic Toner, containing Mandelic Acid,

Professional Beauty May 2017

which has been noted for its 3-in1 superior benefits helping to improve acne, hyperpigmentation and ageing skincare concerns.

Ursula Hunt of DermaFix explains: “MD Prescriptives Acne Solutions is indicated for acne, oily and breakout-prone skin. It is essential for your daily regime to keep skin clear from the lower grades of acne, offering anti-bacterial properties and preventing comedogenic build-up.

The key ingredient, Niacinamide (also known as Vitamin B3 or nicotinamide), helps to target the treatment of acne by acting as an anti-inflammatory. This assists to reduce redness, irritation and dryness. Niacinamide has a keratolytic action and supresses the amount of oil or sebum that the glands secrete, thereby reducing the formation of blackheads, whiteheads and clogged pores. It furthermore inhibits the transfer of melanin-containing melansomes to the outer layers of skin, helping prevent the formation of hyperpigmentation.”

MD Prescriptives Acne Solutions also contains raspberry and blackcurrent leaf extract.

The combination of the organic press juice from the leaves of the blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum) and raspberry (Rubus idaeus) bushes fight against sebum oxidation. Rich in polyphenols, these molecules well-known for their antioxidising, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.

The DermaFix ClariFine Clay Masque is a deep cleansing formulation that whisks away excessive oil while providing anti-bacterial benefits. In addition one can incorporate the DermaFix Mattifying Pore Minimizer

as a spot treatment on breakout prone areas, offering nourishing benefits while keeping the ‘shine in line’ by controlling excessive sebum secretion.

Super selection To treat acne, TheraVine offers the Sebu-Clear Skin Care Selection, comprising the Gentle Foaming Cleanser, Balancing Toner, SebuVine Reguating Lotion and AcniVine Mattefying Gel. The selection encourages the regular shedding of dead skin cells, prevents clogged pores and minimises enlarged pores. Oil secretion is regulated, bacteria destroyed, the complexion is refined and purified, resulting in a more comfortable and hydrated skin.

Gentle approach A non-aggressive approach to acne treatment is critical to prevent scarring, particularly in younger skins, bearing in mind that females between the ages of 10 to 20 years are more prone to keloid scarring, according to Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA. “Exfoliation is essential but should not be in the form of scrubbing or harsh chemicals, but rather by natural enzymatic action with papaya and amino acids or with natural alpha and beta hydroxy acid,” she says. “RégimA recently

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acne treatment

51 launched Acne Attack Rescue Serum, which is proving to be of major benefit for the teenage acne sufferer.”

RégimA also has a rapid acting, in-salon treatment called Acne Attack Pro Masque, which can transform inflamed, pustular skins in 10 minutes.

Lots of clarity From Juliette Armand, Clarifying Foaming Wash contains a key ingredient, Canadian Willowherb extract, that inhibits P. acnes growth, contributing to a better acne control and antimicrobial effect. The plant is a free radical scavenger that reduces damage induced by oxidative stress. It also works on the cells that line hair follicles by changing the way they mature and proliferate, which

decreases follicular ‘plugging’ and helps prevent ingrown hairs, blackheads, whiteheads and inflamed acne lesions.

Also from Juliette Armand, the Clarifying Lotion has a specific antiacne therapeutic action. The key ingredient, azelaic acid, is found in wheat, barley and rye and is effective in treating several skincare conditions such as acne, oiliness, inflammation and hyperpigmentation.

Non-invasive The non-invasive CACI Synergy Acne treatment is a combination of blue and red LED light therapy that is renowned for its anti-bacterial and antiinflammatory healing properties.

Blue light helps to eliminate the bacteria found in the oil glands in the skin and allows skin to breathe to regain its natural appearance, while red light increases blood and oxygen flow, and reduces redness, speeds acne clearing and reduces scarring.

Also available with the Synergy system is the CACI Blemish Fix treatment; a gentle Orbital Microdermabrasion skin exfoliation that combines therapeutic

LED light therapy and microcurrent that helps to heal blemishes and even out pigmentation in a targeted area of concern. PB

hair news

52

Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

It’s a tease!

Bald spot One in four women suffer from hair loss and by the time they reach 50, roughly half of all women will be dealing with some degree of pattern hair loss (androgenic alopecia). The clinically proven product, Pelo Baum from Lamelle, encourages hair growth, reduces hair loss and stimulates the skin’s ability to create new hair follicles.

011 465 2264

Tangle Teezer has introduced the Markus Lupfer compact styling hairbrush in a glittery lip print.

Lupfer is known as one of the quirkiest designers in London's fashion pack. A handbag-friendly design, the Tangle Teezer Compact Styler features a unique two-tiered system technology – the long teeth detangle, while the short teeth smooth the hair cuticle.

021 448 8847/8740

Oil wells

BC Fibre Force from Schwarzkopf Professional is the first strengthening care regime with patented Bond Connector Technology for superior hair quality. The regime begins with exclusive in-salon service using the following products: BC Fibre Force Bonding Cream, BC Fibre Force Bond Connector Infusion and the BC Fibre Force Fortifying Shampoo.

African hair specialist, ORS South Africa (formerly Organic Root Stimulator), has launched its first ever collection of Hair and Scalp Wellness Oils, made with 100 percent natural oils blended with Vitamin E and dedicated to keeping the hair and scalp healthy from root to tip. The line includes Virgin Olive Oil, Shea Butter Oil, Castor Oil, and Coconut Oil.

011 203 0700

011 312 8389

Forceful product

Professional Beauty May 2017

online at www.probeauty.co.za

nails

53

Up to scratch Your product application skills may be on point, but if your filing skills are not up to scratch, it could ruin your client’s natural nails or a perfect set of nail enhancements, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

L

and removing liquid and powder earning how to use your nail nail enhancements. files, buffers and electric • 180 grit – this is one of the most files effectively and safely to commonly used grits, for filing prepare the natural nail and and shaping nail enhancements achieve the correct shape, as and blending of tips. It is also used well as finish off your enhancements, for form finishing and to smooth will not only ensure flawless end the surface of enhancements. results, but will also assist in Not recommended for filing and preventing service breakdown and shaping natural nails. damage to your client’s nails.

• 240 grit – this is also While performing your a commonly used grit hand, foot and nail and my preferred services there will “Hygiene and safety grit for shaping be various stages natural nails and that will require are crucial when using finishing off the use of an nail files, buffers or enhancements. abrasive. electric filing systems.

There are hundreds of Always make sure different types files are kept clean and of files, buffers sanitised after each and abrasives available. Files vary and every use. ” in grit, shape, rigidity, colour and quality, which will also determine the price. As nail professionals we know that buying cheap products, tools and implements is not always the best idea and can affect your work and your clients. Therefore choosing the correct tools is what will make all the difference to your work, efficiency and services.

• Replaceable grit files – these are files where the grits can be removed and replaced onto reusable handles.

The biggest advantage is that grits can be replaced for each client, making it a very safe and hygienic option.

• Glass and metal files – these are usually made of a much softer grit and are very effective for filing natural nails and also flexible premade nail coatings and appliqués, as they seal in the free edges of the natural nail.

• Electric files – professional electric files are specifically made for use on nail enhancements and the natural

The grit The grit is what determines the roughness of a file or buffer and varies from 100 grit (the roughest) to 600 grit (the softest). Files with a higher grit than this start to become a shiner. The grit size is determined by the size and quantity of the particles of abrasive in a given area.

Don’t be fooled by the grit of a file though, even the softest file in the wrong hands can cause damage.

• 100 grit – this is a very heavy grit file, one I prefer not to use but some nail techs will use it for filing

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• Block buffers – some block buffers and shiners will have different grits on each side to assist with refining the surface of enhancements. They are very flexible and useful for finishing.

• 600 grit and finer – these assist with surface refinement and preparing for shining the natural nails or enhancements to a high gloss shine. Anything finer will begin the process of shining up the nails.

nail, so don’t pop down to the hardware store to buy a cheap drill as it will only cause untold damage and cost you your reputation. A nail professional MUST receive proper training and practise continuously before attempting to use an e-file.

Shape and rigidity Straight files with rounded edges are great for shaping the nails or blending tips, while banana or boomerang R

Professional Beauty May 2017

nails

54

shaped files are very useful for form finishing of enhancements. Block buffers are perfect for smoothing off the rough edges of the natural nails and for form finishing of enhancements.

The rigidity of the file is determined by what is in the centre of the file to support it. Some are very rigid and will break easily, so be careful when using them as they also place a lot of pressure on the surface area that you are filing. Most professional files have

a fairly flexible centre and last longer, allowing a little more movement and flexibility when buffing and filing.

Buffing blocks and shiners are very soft inside and made of a sponge like material; these conform to the shape and curves of the nails, to achieve a perfect finish and high gloss shine.

Colour The colour of the file is due to the type of abrasive particles that are used, so a grey file is usually softer

than a black file. Block buffers are now available in a variety of different colours; these will also vary according to their grit and how hard or soft they are, and what they are used for.

Hygiene and safety Hygiene and safety are crucial when using nail files, buffers or electric filing systems. Always make sure files are kept clean and sanitised after each and every use, as dust particles can carry bacteria and fungal spores which can spread rapidly in a salon environment.

Preferably recommend custom abrasives for each of your clients so that those files are only used on them.

After santising the files, store them in a medi pack for your client until the next time. Should your clients not want to invest in their own files, you can use the replaceable grit files, which could be a costly exercise but factor this into your cost. Otherwise, make 100% sure you brush and clean files, buffers and also your electric filing bits with a surface disinfectant.

My top filing tips You should be holding your file so lightly in your hands that it can be removed easily even while you are filing. This helps prevent heavy filing which will cause flat spots. It also

Professional Beauty May 2017

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nails

55 saves your files and make them last longer. Heavy filing can cause deep scratches in the surface of your enhancement product, making it difficult to file out and achieve a high gloss shine.

When preparing and buffing the natural nail plate, always be sure to use the buffer in the direction of the nail growth, buffing gently from the cuticle area in a rounded movement working down towards the free edge.

Do not apply too much pressure as this could also damage the nail.

To file the natural nail, be sure to use a grit not lower than a 240, as anything harder will tear the ends of the nails, which could lead to peeling and splitting. When filing the toenails use a 180 grit file.

Never saw the natural nail file back and forth. Hold the file at a 45-degree angle, using long stroking feather touch movements. To perfect the shape use a gentle rocking motion, working from the sides in towards the centre.

After filing and shaping be sure to follow up with a softer file or block buffer and shiner to smooth off any rough edges and to seal the free edge of the nail. Use rounded, feather touch movements on the surface of the entire nail when refining and finishing. This will make sure you conform to the compound curves of the nail to achieve a perfectly well balanced and finished nail enhancement.

Shaping nail enhancements properly and evenly is a very important part of the service. No matter which shape your client chooses, the shaping will be done on the front free edge. Do not file into the sidewalls as this will lead to the nail weakening, which will eventually crack and break. Use long, even stroking movements to even out and perfect the shape. Make sure sharp edges on your files are gently softened so as not to cut your client’s skin. Graduate your files from a lower grit, working to a higher grit to remove surface scratches.

Always sit straight and upright in front of your client and at the correct height to make sure that all the nails are even in length and shape. Remember to look at the nail from every angle, taking into

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consideration all the structural points, such as the c curve, the apex, and the lower and upper arch. And don’t forget to look down the barrel of the nail from the front and back to check whether the surface is even and well balanced. Use light, feather touch circular movements to achieve a perfectly conformed and wellfinished enhancement surface.

It’s all down to the application and proper product placement,

making sure you engineer your nail enhancements with all the structural points in the correct place.

Remember that the more perfect your application, the less filing you will need to do. PB Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 28 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology..

Professional Beauty May 2017

hair newsfocus product

56 Caring cream From Juliette Armand, the Hand and Nail Care Cream locks in moisture and treats and prevents age spots on hands. It has an SPF 6 to offer protection from the sun, aloe vera to hydrate and nourish the skin and Vitamin E to elasticise and strengthen the skin, thereby delaying the signs of ageing. It is suited to all skin types and conditions.

011 033 0500

Treating the extremities

Skin Doctors’ Younger Hands treats the back of the hands where damage and ageing are most noticeable. The skin is visibly plumper with thickness and texture, while fine lines and wrinkles are reduced. This product contains UVA/UVB SPF 15 sun protection to protect against further ageing and sun damage.

Professional Beauty May 2017

Step up

Hands free

Youthful look

011 486 4904

Topical therapy for the hands and feet are not the sole (pun intended) domain of manicure and pedicure treatments, but can also be a useful generator of income on the salon’s retail shelves.

A highly regenerating formula, the Youthful Hand Cream from Thalgo protects the skin from external assaults and helps reduce the appearance of the visible signs of ageing. This product is ideal for all those with dry, dehydrated hands that are showing a tendency towards crepiness and brown spots.

011 880 3851/0

LCN’s Warming Foot Cream contains horse chestnut to improve blood circulation and bees wax to soothe skin irritation and create a barrier against cold on the skin. Red algae helps to maintain moisture in the skin, while chilli extract creates a warm effect on a cold winter’s day.

010 593 3293

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medical aesthetics

57

The vital vitamin

V

itamin D deficiency is very common and hence we are seeing an increase in chronic health conditions, heart ailments, cancer, skin related issues and various autoimmune diseases.

Believe it or not, the frantic need to apply sunscreen regularly can actually cause a deficiency as sunshine is one of the best sources of this vitamin. In fact, Vitamin D plays so many crucial roles in one’s health that I cannot do it justice in such a short review.

Patients often tell me that it sounds

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Clinical pharmacist David Arthur, R. Ph FAARFM (USA), looks at how Vitamin D can improve your skin and act as an anti-ageing supplement. too supernatural that one vitamin can Effect on skin rejuvenation play so many vital roles in anti-ageing With knowing just a few of the benefits and preventing age-related diseases. of Vitamin D, one can now realise the Some general facts that we should importance of this vitamin on one of all know about Vitamin D: the biggest organs in the body – the • Deficiencies are most common skin. The ‘Catch 22’ when referring to in women, breast-fed infants, the skin is – we know that sunlight is coloured people, elderly and obese so vital for vitamin D production and individuals. at the same time such a risk factor for • Whereas all vitamins are obtained skin related issues such as wrinkling, from a dietary source, Vitamin D premature ageing, sunburns is produced by the body and skin cancer. underneath the skin.

Some quick • Vitamin D can be “Believe it science here – supplemented Vitamin D is or not, the frantic through your diet. a fat-soluble need to apply sunscreen vitamin and • Due to sunlight and smog, various regularly can actually can easily pass areas can be through all the cause a deficiency as compromised with cell membranes sunshine is one of the D levels in the and reach its R environment. the best sources of • If your diet is this vitamin.” not rich in minerals, the body will draw its Vitamin D from your bones, leading to weak bones, muscles and an increase in abdominal fat and insulin resistance.

• Always have your Vitamin D levels monitored by a healthcare practitioner.

• Optimum thyroid function is reliant on the correct Vitamin D blood levels, amongst others.

Professional Beauty May 2017

medical aesthetics

58 nucleus where it can turn on cell multiplication and improve the skin’s immune system. Because of the constant loss of skin cells due to the skin’s fast turnover, it is important to refurbish the skin with Vitamin D. Skin science requires Vitamin D and keratinocytes to work together to build the structure of the skin. Low levels of Vitamin D can cause this framework to be thin and crack, causing wrinkles, sagging and skin dryness, as it will not be able to retain moisture.

“Vitamin D plays an important role in rejuvenating and restoring the skin cells.

It destroys the oxidants (free radicals) produced due to stress, pollution and improper diet.”

Important facts Vitamin D plays an important role in rejuvenating and restoring the skin cells. It destroys the oxidants (free radicals) produced due to stress, pollution and improper diet. (Free raidcals cause premature ageing.)

Over the age of 29, your body’s capacity to produce Vitamin D reduces significantly by almost 75%. Age, gender, race and the area where you live are major factors affecting the Vitamin D production under the skin.

Hence, along with sunshine, dietary intake of Vitamin D, topical applications of creams and lotions rich in calcitriol (active Vitamin D) exert a protective and rejuvenating effect on your skin.

One third of the population is deficient of Vitamin D and hence supplementation with the sufficient dose of daily Vitamin D will help in defending one against skin related acne, eczema, wrinkles sagging skin, premature ageing, dark spots and cancer.

Vitamin D helps to improve skin elasticity by stimulating collagen proeuction which makes one’s skin look radiant and beautiful.

Vitamin dosage Recent studies from the Skin Cancer Foundation agree that an optimal dose of 600iu of Vitamin D per day is suitable for patients between the ages of one and 70, and 800iu for those above 70 years of age.

My personal belief is to strive to get the blood levels to between 5580 for optimum Vitamin D levels.

Be safe and always have your Vitamin D levels monitored by a healthcare practitioner. PB David Arthur is a clinical pharmacist – B.Pharm (Wits), MPS, ABAAHP Diplomate, Board Certified (American Board of Anti-Aging Health Practitioners), Faculty MMI/SA, A4M. He practices at the Integrative Medical Centre, where his main focus is cutting edge world trends in functional and regenerative medicine.

References: 1. Cannell JJ. Autism and vitamin D. Med Hypotheses. 2008;70:750-759.

2. Cannell JJ, Vieth R, Umhau JC, Holick MF, Grant WB, Madronich S, Garland CF, Giovannucci E. Epidemic influenza and vitamin D. Epidemiol Infect. 2006;134:1129-1140.

3. Hedley AA, Ogden CL, Johnson CL, Carroll MD, Curtin LR, Flegal KM. Prevalence of overweight and obesity among US children, adolescents, and adults,

Professional Beauty May 2017

1999-2002. JAMA. 2004;291:2847- 2850.

4. Holick M. Vitamin D: importance in the prevention of cancers, type 1 diabetes, heart disease, and osteoporosis. Am J Clin Nutr.

2004;79:362-371.

5. Al Faraj S, Al Mutairi K. Vitamin D deficiency and chronic low back pain in Saudi Arabia. Spine (Phila Pa 1976).

2003;28:177-179.

6. Pfeifer M, Begerow B, Minne HW, Nachtigall D, Hansen C. Effects of a

short-term vitamin D(3) and calcium supplementation on blood pressure and parathyroid hormone levels in elderly women. J Clin Endocrinol Metab.

2001;86:1633-1637.

7. Borissova AM, Tankova T, Kirilov G, Dakovska L, Kovacheva R. The effect of vitamin D3 on insulin secretion and peripheral insulin sensitivity in type 2 diabetic patients. Int J Clin Pract.

2003;57:258-261.

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product news

59 Vitamin power A concentrated serum for the healthy maintenance of the skin, Vita C Concentrated Corrective Serum from pHformula derives its strength from different forms of vitamin C. Its unique cell to cell communication action enhances skin brightening to a superior level, while improving tone and texture of the skin, as well as elasticity.

082 338 2368

In the market Our round-up of new products and treatments.

Depths of moisture A ‘Super’ product

Skinny cream

Dermalogica’s new Daily Superfoliant is a highly active powder resurfacer that leaves skin ultra-smooth, while combatting the environmental triggers known to cause brown spots, fine lines and uneven skin tone. It is gentle enough for daily use but powerful enough to give immediate results.

Phytomer’s ResurfaSlim Peel & Slim Cream is for those who don’t have time to both exfoliate and apply a slimming product. The more ResurfaSlim exfoliates, the more effective its formula – a slimmer silhouette, smother skin texture and less blurred stretch marks.

011 268 0018

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011 486 4904

The Exuviance Deep Hydration Treatment is a lightweight, intensely moisturising overnight serum with a water-gel texture to fight back daily oxidative stress, as well as dryness and dehydration. The key ingredient is Prodew®, which restores natural skin moisture known as NMF.

011 545 9300

Professional Beauty May 2017

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product news

60

Smooth strokes MUD (Make-up Designory) has launched two new brushes, which can blend and buff correctors, as well as eye colours, cream highlighters and shadows. With dense and soft synthetic bristles, these 100% vegan brushes leave the skin with a flawless, smooth finish.

011 656 0120

For the lids Chrissanthie’s eye cleanse™ Foam Eyelid Cleanser with tea tree was designed by an ophthalmologist to gently cleanse the eyelids of all impurities – pre and post lash extensions – and also to effectively remove make-up. It is ideal for sensitive skin and contact lens wearers, leaving eyes feeling cool and relieved without any oily residue.

011 5933243

Add-on Dermaheal Eye Regeneration PLUS from Lamelle Research Laboratories helps improve eye area brightness, reduces irritation, plumps the skin and restores lipid balance - and in so doing smooths out even the tiniest lines and imperfections. It also has the ability to powerfully rebuild new collagen, elastin and the extracellular matrix.

011 465 2264

Professional Beauty May 2017

Lips with ‘Mattitude’ Lipsticks in Mii Cosmetics’ Passion Mattes range are available in four shades – Bare; Adoration; Sassy; and Obsession. These long-lasting lipsticks smooth on for a suede-soft finish. Richly pigmented, the lipsticks are an enriching blend of oils and waxes.

011 033 0500

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product news

61

‘Artistic’ denim The Urban Distressed Spring Collection from Artistic Nail Design is designed to rock your denim with six shades available in Colour Gloss and Colour Revolution. The colours are: Under the Overalls; Glammed Up Grunge; Denimist; Vogue Vogue; Work Boots; and Acid Washed Angel.

011 305 1600

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product news

62

Speciality collection A reflection of the runway, ibd’s Chrome Squad Chrome Effect Powders take the brand’s Just Gel Polish in a new dimension of colour texture and mirror like shine.

Colours are: Steel My Thunder; Emerald Entity; Holo-Femme Bot; Galactic Gold; Celestial Copper and Light My Sapphire.

011 305 1600

Terrific tint RefectoCil Lash & Brow Bar is positioned as the new and handy tinting solution. It is small, light and has an integrated handle that allows easy carrying between work stations. The Lash & Brow Bar also includes holders for cotton swabs, brushes and accessories to make lash and brow styling easier than ever before.

082 575 6567

Special offer on multiple bookings Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: alex@probeauty.co.za

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saahsp

64 South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals

Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

Professional Body SAAHSP is the Professional Body representing the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry in South Africa.

T

he SAAHSP mission is to foster the advancement of education and professionalism in the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry.

In addition, the SAAHSP vision is to advance co-operation with all participants in the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry to ensure the maintenance of the Highest Standard of Ethical Conduct.

As the Registered Professional Body, SAAHSP is governed by the National Qualifications Framework Act 67 of 2008, Policies and Criteria for Recognising a Professional Body and Registering a Professional Designation.

Registration no AHSP - 849.

Somatologist A

Somatologist (SomHS) is a practising professional who studies the science of the human body including physics, chemistry, biology, botany under the general heading of physicalism as a branch of anthropology. This requires three years of training.

Continual Professional Development (CPD) The Professional Body regulates CPD (Continual Professional Development). CPD can be defined

PROFESSIONAL DESIGNATIONS Nail Technologist

as the systematic maintenance, improvement and broadening of skills, and the development of personal qualities necessary for the execution of professional and technical duties throughout a person’s career.

Scheduled SAAHSP CPD Activities: • Professional Development; • Personal Development; • Education and Training; and • Reading and Publishing.

As part of the Professional Body Regulations and Criteria, SAAHSP has to ensure to offer Designated Members various training and workshops in order to obtain their CPD points. Corporate Members and Registered Training Providers apply to the Professional Body to offer CPD activity programmes through the organisation.

A Nail Technologist (NtHS) is a practising professional who applies artificial nails and provides nail and nail care therapy on the hands and feet. NtHS often specialise in one or more types of nail enhancements such as Gel, Silk, Fibre, Acrylic and Nail Art, depending on product specific training.

Joining SAAHSP as a Professional Member or Corporate Member is as easy as 1-2-3.

Beauty Technologist A Beauty Technologist (BtHS) is a practising professional who applies basic skincare, hand and foot treatments with nail treatments, hair removal, make-up applications and a basic back and neck massage and back treatment.

Contact us today to get your Membership Application Forms or download them from the website: www.saahsp.com

Beauty Therapist A Beauty Therapist (BHS) is a practising professional who applies complete skincare and body treatments including massage. This requires two years of training.

Professional Beauty May 2017

Cidesco Section South Africa

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