Pro beauty Sept 2015

September 2015

www.probeauty.co.za

‘Hairy’ situation Hair removal treatments

Marketing

mix

Promoting your business

Decisive action Choosing brands for your salon

Tan-tastic!

Sunless tanning

keeping up

appearances

Is beauty therapy a young woman’s game?

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In this issue...

Regulars 7 Industry news

Local and international news

70 Hair news

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

82 Product news

All the latest launches

84 SAAHSP

The latest news from SAAHSP

42 Excuse me sir – hands off!

Dealing with inappropriate behaviour from male clients

46 The right stuff

Standards and procedures in the salon

Spa Focus 48 The Recruitment Council

Staff recruiting tips

50 A touch of class

Business

17 Insider Salon/Insider Spa

Medical Aesthetics

Tracking the industry with stats

18 Ask the Experts

All your questions answered

20 The importance of giving back

Dermalogica FITE’s Natalie Byrne on CSI

Camelot Spa at The Regent

77 Boosting the skin

Key active ingredients

81 A vitalising facial

Treatment review

Nails 72 Education – the key to success

Effective training for nail techs

Features 52 The power of natural pharmacology

Leeches vs skin-replicating amino acids

56 A laser-sharp beam of light

Latest laser technologies

61 Hair removal

Treatment reviews

66 Shine on

Indoor tanning products and accelerators

69 On the side lines

Salon accessories

24

24 Salon goes the eco route

Case study – Midori Salon

27 Keeping current

On-going education of staff

28 The choices you make

Brand selection

67

32 Is beauty therapy a young woman’s job?

What the future holds for therapists

37 How do you successfully market your business?

Marketing strategies for all platforms

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty September 2015

Welcome

T

he September issue of Professional Beauty is traditionally our biggest issue of the year and the one that has the honour of being distributed at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show, which is visited by over 18 000 visitors each year. So it’s no wonder that this issue is absolutely jam-packed with informative and fascinating goodies for you to read.

An important issue that we cover is age – in that whenever you go into a spa or salon, they seem to be entirely populated by young therapists. Helena Raats provides an in-depth look into this perplexing dynamic.

A possibly taboo subject is how therapists should react when male clients don’t behave as they should in the salon or spa. Philippa Abbott’s article, while undeniably amusing, offers some invaluable advice on how to effectively deal with these undesirable situations.

Staff issues feature quite prominently in this issue – after all, what is a spa or salon (or any other business for that matter) without its staff? There are articles on the importance of educating staff on a regular basis, as well as on implementing standards and procedures to ensure optimum performance. We also provide useful tips on how to recruit staff.

Enjoy the read!

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Subscribe 9 issues for R475 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

Publisher Mark Moloney

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Managing Director Yolanda Knott

083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

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Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

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Art Director Ursula Wong

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Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/ or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

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Printers ABC Press

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business tips

7

News All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

Thalgo enters cosmeceutical domain In a departure from its traditional facial ranges, premium French skincare brand Thalgo has launched a cosmeceutical brand, M-Ceutic.

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halgo’s international director, Arnaud Diaz, visited South Africa in July to introduce M-Ceutic to the local market, together with distributor MSD. “It means a lot to me to be able to create a Thalgo community with our stockists and distributors around the world,” said Diaz, at an MSD event held in Johannesburg in July. “Thalgo is enjoying very

good growth in South Africa. We are extremely loyal in terms of distribution channels in that we are only available at spas and salons. The core identity of Thalgo belongs to the therapist.”

Diaz noted that M-Ceutic was some 34 months in development.

“The M-Ceutic brand is made from very complex formulations and includes our patented ingredient,

SA presenter at global PMU event Cape Town-based Yvette Zacharowitz is the first South African ever to be invited to present at the Permanent Make-up (PMU) World Conference, which takes place in Amsterdam on 8 and 9 November.

Zacharowitz will present on the unique optical illusion technique she has created for areola reconstruction.

“I am delighted to be recognised as a leader in this field and for my advanced dermapigmentation skills,” says Zacharowitz.

“Over 500 delegates from all over the world have booked for the PMU World Conference.”

Zacharowitz has been involved in the intradermal cosmetics for 20 years. “In 1999 I was working with leading surgeons who found that nipple grafts are not always successful and not all patients are good candidates for it, thus the need for an optical illusion technique.

“I have done pretty much every training course available locally and internationally to master and enrich my skills. Now, as the owner of the Nouveau Contour Distributorship and training academy, I find myself in the unique position to share this skill set with others and to teach my life-changing techniques.”

online at www.probeauty.co.za

MSD’s Alison Yammin and Arnaud Diaz (Thalgo)

Marine Mésolift. M-Ceutic mimics the effect of mesotherapy.

“We have customised M-Ceutic for your clients. The cosmeceutical market is a new field for us.

Cosmeceuticals are stronger than cosmetic products; they work deeper and are results-oriented.

At the moment M-Ceutic consists of just a few products but that will soon change.”

News in pictures

Prantha Radhakissoon (second from left) of Soma Aura Health & Beauty won a trip for two to Phuket as part of an Environ Distribution SA Intensive Revival Masque launch. She is pictured with Precious Buthelezi, Zakira Hoosen and Environ’s Ashleigh Coetzee and Wayne La Grange.

Professional Beauty September 2015

industry news

8 News in brief ■ Soil Association campaigns for clarity: As part of Organic Beauty Week (September 1421), the Soil Association will run a campaign called Campaign for Clarity, asking brands to be truthful in their claims relating to organic content.

■ Sorbet’s ‘Glow’bal Warming Initiative’: Sorbet salons across the country coaxed clients to join their pledge to provide as many underprivileged schoolchildren as possible with warm, woollen scarfs during winter.

Chique expands offering Winner of the 2014 Professional Beauty Award for Best Salon (4 Rooms or More), Chique Skin Technology in Kempton Park now offers hair services.

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ays Chique owner Rita Shaw: “To add a hair salon was something I always wanted to do, as this would really make Chique a one-stop shop. It has proved to be quite a process though, as every time I commenced interviews with hairdressers, I realised that they are a different species to beauty therapists.”

Shaw reveals that she tested her clients’ feelings about having a hair salon at Chique. “They were all very keen for me to have a classy hair salon

with top products at competitive prices.”

The hair salon was created entirely from scratch, with Shaw aiming for a far more relaxed and luxurious feel than the average hair salon. Hair @ Chique is situated at the other end of the Chique salon and has its own entrance.

Clients having hair tints can have nail services simultaneously. Other treatments include Chique’s ultra-mist hair treatments.

‘Hairy’ survey results A Babtac survey of just over 2 000 women found that the average woman removes hair from her legs twice per month, her armpits three times per week and her bikini line once every three weeks.

When respondents were asked how they felt about being hairy, the majority (51%) said they ‘don’t care’.

Thirty-nine-percent said that they hate it, while the remaining 10% said they like having body hair.

Professional Beauty September 2015

■ Murad founder honoured: Dermatologist Howard Murad, founder of Murad Skincare, has been named the 2016 Legacy Honouree by the Beauty Changes Lives Foundation.

■ GWS set to break records: The Global Wellness Summit (GWS) 2015 has attracted a record number of sponsors (35) and looks set to welcome more delegates than ever before.

GWS takes place from 13 to 15 November at St Regis Mexico City.

■ Clients willing to pay for ‘the best’: Seventy-two-percent of respondents in a study commissioned by Find a Future said they were willing to pay more for professionals of the highest calibre in the industry, specifically ‘the best of the best’, who have won awards or have glowing endorsements from other clients.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

industry news

11

World first for Esse The Probiotic Serum from South Africa’s certified organic skincare brand, Esse, is the first in the world to incorporate live probiotic microbes.

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ays Esse founder Trevor Steyn: “This is one of the products in our newly launched premium line, Esse Plus. In developing the range we closely followed the findings of the Human Microbiome Project. Our Esse Plus line is based on the concept that if you have a good layer of microbes on the skin it prevents the docking of pathogens and thus has an anti-

wrinkle and anti-ageing effect. The Probiotic Serum has 50 million live probiotic microbes per drop.”

Steyn notes that Esse has improved its website to the extent that it can now facilitate online sales in Europe.

“We’re very excited about the fact

that we’ve now appointed a strong distributor in Finland (salon and spa only). Esse is already very strong in Sweden and has a strong presence in Germany. We recently commenced sales in Australia and are doing well in the US,” adds Steyn.

CIDESCO campaigns against plastic microbeads

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www.ottawariverkeeper.ca

lobal standardisation body for beauty and spa therapy, CIDESCO, is asking its beauty business members to replace the skincare products they use containing plastic microbeads with alternatives that are less harmful to the planet.

Says CIDESCO president Anna-Cari Gund: “Plastic pollution has become

News in pictures

At the beginning of July Africology opened its new spa, at Dainfern Square in Johannesburg North, where it has paired with Spiral Aloe Wellness to offer clients a mix of medi-spa treatments.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

a manmade global catastrophe.

As a worldwide organisation, we know that together our members can make a difference in helping to prevent this situation getting worse. We have, therefore, issued an appeal to all our members to review the products they are using, and, where necessary, swap the products containing microbeads with safe alternatives.”

It is only relatively recently that the environmental dangers of plastic microbeads, which are used in many products to exfoliate the skin, have come to light. Fish often end up consuming the beads once they wash back into the sea after going down plugholes.

Some parts of the world are going so far as to ban the use of the microbeads across the board. The State Assembly of California passed a bill banning plastic microbeads in personal care products after it was revealed that approximately 471 million plastic beads are released into San Francisco Bay every day.

Other US states are in the process of doing the same, and The Netherlands has banned the use of microbeads across the country.

Professional Beauty September 2015

industry news

12

SA-developed facial at Italian spa The team at Black Pearl South Africa has developed a facial treatment protocol that has been selected by hotel giant, Four Seasons, for the spa at its hotel in Florence.

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nown as the Lux Perfection Treatment, the facial revolves around Black Pearl’s newly launched 24k Gold Cleopatra Mask.

“This is the first time in history that a South African treatment protocol has been adopted by the Firenze Spa,” says Michelle Roberts, managing partner of Black Pearl South Africa.

“We wanted to create a skincare treatment unlike any other, that would captivate the market. Our aim was to introduce Lux Perfection at a beauty spa that encompasses the same values our line holds close – a focus on luxury, quality and most of all, on creating extraordinary experiences.

“We decided the best suited venue would be the Firenze Spa – a personal

oasis and the only hotel spa in the heart of Florence, Italy. We arranged to meet with spa manager Lucia Papalini and jetted off to Italy. After lengthy and successful discussions, Black Pearl South Africa began working on a signature treatment that will only be available to guests visiting Firenze

Mobile apps can boost business Research conducted by Appsme reveals that having a mobile app not only boosts bookings, but can make your salon appear more professional and increase loyalty.

Three-quarters (75%) of the more than 800 UK salons and spas that have a mobile app and which were surveyed in the study said they find it beneficial to the image of the business, as it helps them to ‘look good’ in the eyes of clients.

Eighty-one percent of users in the

sector also said that having an app has had a positive effect on net earnings, with 35% adding this has been aided by in-app click-to-call features.

Professional Beauty September 2015

Spa. And so the Lux Perfection Treatment was born.”

Roberts emphasises that the treatment utilises the powers of one of the softest and most precious metals in the world – gold.

She continues: “The antiageing benefits of gold can be traced back to Cleopatra, who, by sleeping in a gold face mask every night, enhanced the suppleness of her complexion and preserved its natural luminosity.

“In addition to antioxidant and antimicrobial powers, gold is praised for its purported ability to ward off UV damage, tighten lax skin and reduce the appearance of discolouration resulting in skin with a radiant lustre. It is now also widely believed to slow the breakdown of elastin, keep skin firm and taut, increase circulation and eliminate toxins from the body.”

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business trends

17

Insider

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Cape Town, East London and Port Elizabeth to track business in July 2015.

The month in numbers Insider Salon

Treatment business for many salons really picked up following the winter and school holidays, as 50% of you said business was up on the same time last year. Some of you attributed this to more targeted advertising and company expansion.

On the other hand, the state of the economy is still having quite an impact on some salons as 50% of you said that treatment business has gone down.

Fifty-six-percent of respondents reported an increase in retail business. Most of you said this is due to new and popular beauty treatments being introduced into you salons, while some of you said AVERAGE this is the result of your staff being TREATMENT trained on certain products. Eleven ROOM percent of you said business was OCCUPANCY the same.

We asked if you ever hire therapists on a freelance basis – 20% of you said you do and 80% of you said no.

We also asked if your salon offers permanent make-up services and/or normal make up. Ninetypercent of you said you offer normal make-up services, while 10% of you said you offer permanent make-up.

51%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JULY 2015 COMPARE WITH JULY 2014?

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JULY 2015 COMPARE WITH JULY 2014?

Insider Spa

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

An overwhelming percentage (86%) of you reported an increase in treatment business during July, as opposed to the same time last year, the main reason cited being the winter holidays, which seemed to drive clientele to spas.

Retail business in July 2015 told a different story, with only 43% of respondents reporting that sales were better than in July 2014. Some attributed the relatively poor sales to a traditional seasonal dip.

Fifty-seven percent of you hire freelance therapists, usually to accommodate the anticipated increased business on long weekends and during holidays.

When asked if you offer either permanent makeup services and/or normal make-up services, none currently offer permanent make-up, while 56% of you offer make-up services. Of the spas that do, one offers a mobile make-up service, where they send out their therapists to do bridal make-up, while another brings in a make-up consultant when clients request it.

60%

86 % BETTER 0

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JULY 2015 COMPARE WITH JULY 2014?

% SAME

50

% BETTER

0

% SAME

50

% WORSE

online at www.probeauty.co.za

56

% BETTER

14

% WORSE

42

11

% SAME

33

% WORSE

43

% BETTER

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JULY 2015 COMPARE WITH JULY 2014?

% SAME

15

% WORSE

Professional Beauty September 2015

business tips

18

Ask the experts Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

I am a professional make-up artist and interested in airbrush make-up.

What are the benefits of this type of make-up technique and what areas of the face can it be used on?

T

he airbrush technique was first used in 1959 on actors in the movie Ben-Hur. A major benefit of airbrush makeup is that it is made of a special thin formula and enables you to disperse the make-up gradually with minimal product and maximum coverage, leaving the skin looking flawless.

It is durable without fading and also great for oily skins, as well as skins that are active, and tend to ‘eat up’ make-up. Airbrush makeup is excellent for fashion shows, photography, film and bridal makeup, whereas traditional make-up may leave traces of lines from brushes and sponges. These can be visible when your client’s face is shown in high resolution digital photographs.

Airbrush make-up can be used for most areas of the face eg. foundation, highlighting, shading, contouring, eyebrows, eye-shadow, eye-liner, lips and blush.

It is less time-consuming to apply than traditional make-up and more hygienic as there is no contact with the skin.

How it works The airbrush gun is a small, air-operated tool that disperses various mediums. It is attached to a pipe and connected to a compressor and to a source of air. Once the air passes the small opening at the gun tip, it creates a vacuum and draws the make-up into the air stream.

Make-up is mixed in a cup situated on the airbrush gun, where a small amount of air passes through it, thereby mixing the pigments. This technique is known as back-bubbling. When applying foundation with the airgun, the makeup artist will either use a circular or forward-back motion. The air and makeup is dispersed and connects with the skin as millions of droplets of formula and is layered with several passes with a minimal amount of product. Six to 12 drops are enough to cover the entire face and create a flawless, even and long-lasting coverage. It mimics the skin’s texture so as to leave no obvious sign of make-up, thereby producing a very natural, non-heavy look, unlike traditional make-up which is applied with sponges, brushes and fingers.

Airbrush make-up comes in various

Professional Beauty September 2015

mediums such as silicon, water and alcohol based. Silicon based is used for beauty, bridal and mature skin. It is water resistant but not waterproof.

Water based is great for clown makeup (ie. for short term artistic or skin friendly make-ups), while alcohol based is used for creating fake tattoos.

Airbrush make-up has recently been re-popularised by the advent of high definition TV, video and digital photography.

Traditional makeup products tend to settle into the pores and wrinkles and with today’s technology, the camera sees more detail than ever before. PB

Michelle Girling is a renowned international make-up designer with 30 years of experience in the make-up and beauty industry. She was chief make-up designer for the 1998 Alberta Ferretti Fashion Show and is an ex fashion and beauty editor for Blush and Talk magazines SA.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

19

What does it mean when a skincare product has been ‘clinically tested’ and how can I verify this claim?

T

he terms ‘clinically tested’ and/ or ‘dermatologically tested’ or ‘approved by a dermatologist’ have been used as a way to attract buyers. Regulatory bodies such as the FDA and CTFA are looking into these claims, as often such claims are not at all reliable.

There are testing clinics in France, Thailand and South Africa, where real testing is done methodically and with ethical approval. These tests are done on volunteer humans for between 10 days to eight weeks and generally the test may result in a ‘white paper’ validating the claims that the product is non-irritant, etc. At Environ we have a protocol for any new product. Once I have tested the product and feel it is safe, a panel of trialists at the factory will then test the product. After several weeks I commence research of the visible effects on voluntary trialists, who are fully informed of the nature of the product and what it is expected to do. The research lasts for up to two years.

Recently a product in Japan was reported to be clinically tested, but the test period was short, and, only after the product had been used by hundreds of thousands of people, did it emerge that it caused pigmentation problems. Thus it had to be withdrawn.

One may not make any claims about cosmetics other than they are non-irritating and make the skin appear to be smoother, lighter etc.

Prominent plastic surgeon Dr Des Fernandes was the first person to introduce Vitamin A in high effective doses, leading to the establishment of the Environ skincare range.

What sort of additional business will eyelash extensions generate in my salon, and how many therapists should I train?

E

very woman who uses mascara as part of her daily make-up regime is a prospective client for eyelash extensions. While it is a service that can be applied for once-off special occasions, it is also something that can be worn indefinitely, with regular fills every two to three weeks, so it can become a regular, ongoing money earner.

The profit margins for eyelash extensions are very good for the salon-owner. Aftercare and cosmetic products that are specifically designed to be compatible with lash extensions can also be a money-spinner when added to your retail range.

Successful eyelash extension application requires proper training and professional grade products, so do your homework when selecting the company who will train your staff. Choose a therapist from your salon who has patience and good vision, who has dexterity with both hands and who is very attentive to fine detail.

A therapist who is still building up a clientele and who has time to spend applying lashes is definitely a better choice than a well-established therapist, who is already fully booked most days. Lash extensions come in varying lengths, curvatures, thicknesses and colours, so your therapist should ideally show natural flair and creativity. I would suggest sending one therapist initially, with a second to follow once the service has been well received.

Penny Cheong is the owner of Xtreme Lashes, an educator and salon owner. She is an internationally trained, advanced master lash stylist with nine years’ experience, as well as a qualified hairdresser.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty September 2015

business

20 Natalie Byrne

The importance of giving back Los Angeles-based Natalie Byrne, director of Global Impact for Dermalogica and FITE, visited South Africa in July. Joanna Sterkowicz caught up with her to discuss corporate social investment.

New chapter

Jane Chapman (MD of Seeds of Africa), Natalie Byrne and Cherie Keating (CEO Dermalogica South Africa)

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ince 2010, Dermalogica FITE (Financial Independence Through Entrepreneurship) has helped to fund 60 000 loans for females across 73 countries, in partnership with Kiva, a microfinance website.

Dermalogica FITE ambassador Natalie Byrne’s first-ever visit to South Africa was timed to coincide with Mandela Day celebrations.

“South Africa is a very important region for us as a company, and through FITE we wanted to invest in girls growing up in impoverished areas. So we partnered with These Numbers Have Faces, a local NGO. “The beauty industry puts more women into the workplace than any other industry, so it’s fitting that FITE empowers women. In fact, FITE personifies the social impact values of the Dermalogica brand. To date we’ve funded 50 000 loans in Africa alone,” explained Byrne.

She described Kiva as FITE’s finance capital partner.

“Kiva works with people on the ground and connects people through loans to alleviate poverty. We have a FITE bank at Kiva, and, once a student has paid back her loan, it goes back into the FITE bank.

“Dermalogica has expanded FITE to include education, vocational training and entrepreneurships. Through Kiva we’ve reached women in Guatemala, India and Vietnam.”

Byrne revealed that FITE recently implemented an exciting new programme, FITE Future Entrepreneurs.

“This programme is aimed at women on the street,” she continued. “We just launched the first programme in New York, and have similar programmes unfolding in Cambodia and India. Some of the beneficiaries were formerly victims of sex trafficking. FITE looks to help women in countries where females face the biggest challenges.”

She revealed that Dermalogica is hoping to launch FITE Future Entrepreneurs in South Africa in 2016.

Mandela Day Byrne stressed ‘how incredible’ the South African Dermalogica tribe is. “They’ve inspired Dermalogica around the world to participate in Mandela Day. On 17 July, FITE will join forces with These Numbers Have Faces in Cape Town and I will get to meet Busiswe Mutlaka and Jaime’Lee Jacobs, two students who received scholarships through FITE and These Numbers Have Faces.

“In addition, we will do two hours of volunteer work at the Saartjie Baartman Centre, a safe house for women.”

Unilever acquisition In response to a question about how Dermalogica’s recent acquisition by Unilever is likely to affect FITE, Byrne responded: “We’re really excited about the Unilever acquisition as social impact is at the forefront of both companies. It was important for Dermalogica that Unilever come on board with FITE.” In conclusion, Byrne noted that she was on route to launch a FITE programme in Rwanda with These Numbers Have Faces. It will have the form of an entrepreneurship academy.

“I’ve also been invited to present a workshop at the Global Entrepreneurs Summit in Nairobi, Kenya, an event to be attended by US President Barack Obama. It’s really exciting for a beauty company to participate in such an event,” she stated. PB

Professional Beauty September 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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business case study

24

Salon goes the eco route Midori Salon in Sandton, Johannesburg, is currently awaiting official certification from Ecocert, the international inspection and certification body, which will give it eco salon status, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

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wner and founder of Midori Salon, Anisha Patel, was inspired to open an eco-friendly beauty salon in July 2012, following a bout of severe illness.

“I had taken ill with endometriosis, which later turned into the first stage of cancer, so I decided to turn my life around completely, by incorporating an organic lifestyle. The starting point was to throw out everything that was artificial and synthetic in my household. Foods and clothing that

incorporated natural and organic products really helped my health.

“This is how the idea of Midori Eco Salon was conceived. The word ‘midori’ means green in Japanese.

We are situated in an eco-friendly building that was specifically designed with LED lighting and recycled flooring, plus we use gas to heat water. Our taps are made of natural products and our chandeliers from recycled glass,” explains Patel.

She notes that the Ecocert certification process is lengthy, as the body has to certify that each of

Midori’s suppliers and their products comply with its strict criteria.

“To prepare to meet Ecocert standards took a lot of research on our part and included the screening of organic products, but I believe we are finally on target with all aspects of being an eco salon.

“We offer various beauty, nail and hair services at Midori, performed in the traditional manner by experienced therapists using natural products. Our brands include Kevin Murphy, Davines, Comfort Zone, Vita Liberata spray tans, TanOrganic, Moroccan Oil and Konjac Sponges,” says Patel.

Set-up Patel is herself an interior decorator of 20 years standing. “We have created a green environment inside the salon in terms of using iPads and a mirror projector for advertising instead of paper. In addition we use coconut shells and tiles.”

The salon is 200 square metres and currently comprises four massage rooms, six manicure and pedicure stations and 16 hair stations. Midori’s hair offering caters for all ethnicities.

Patel employs six nail therapists, five hair stylists and two massage therapists. PB

Professional Beauty September 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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business tips

27

Keeping current Strengthening your skills and knowledge on a regular basis ensures that you will always be marketable and in demand, writes Debbie Merdjan.

I

as well as feel secure in your job in a n the same way that it can be difficult economy. hard to find a great job, it can Consider which skills you would also be pretty difficult to source like to develop. Talk to your manager good staff. It’s hugely rewarding or other staff members and tell them when your staff are hard-working, about your goals. Find out about passionate and dedicated. And it is conferences and workshops and equally rewarding for the staff when be proactive in attending them. If their spa is inspiring, forward-thinking you’re interested in and loyal too. management, ask your In reality this A good spa will own manager to guide shouldn’t be difficult always invest time you. to achieve on either in educating its Do some online side. A career in beauty, courses.

Take a health and wellness staff, including computer course. Study is rewarding for both regular training accounting. Do a PR management and staff. and workshops, course. Learn about A spa is a beautiful and but a good leadership. Study in the peaceful workspace. evenings or whenever Job satisfaction is therapist will you have time. It can easy – it feels good to constantly educate be hard but it will be make people feel good herself anyway. worthwhile. about themselves. It’s It’s a good idea to a nice way to meet find a mentor, too. If there is someone new people, and there are many you admire, ask her what inspired her opportunities for growth and learning. and don’t be shy to ask for advice.

But the beauty industry is a Work with her and learn from her. Your competitive one. In the same way that mentor will be flattered. the spa needs to stay on top of its game, There are big problems in our it is also really important for beauty industry in finding well-trained spa therapists to keep current, and to learn managers and therapists who love constantly about new techniques, what they do and are prepared to go treatments and products. the extra mile.

A good spa will always invest time As an industry we also need to in educating its staff, including regular re-enchant the lives of our staff, who training and workshops, but a good might become exhausted, frustrated, therapist will constantly educate herself and sometimes disheartened. We anyway. No-one wants to stay stagnant need to inspire! in a career. The more you know, the Invest in your staff and remember higher your salary and the better the that people are not your greatest chances of promotion. You will be ready asset, the right people are. PB for new opportunities should they arise,

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty September 2015

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e k a m u o y s e ic o h c e Th It’s important to do your homework and think long-term when deciding on ranges for your salon or spa, writes Helena van der Vyver.

T

he body and skincare products used in your salon or spa are almost like the makeup of your business’s face. They are there to enhance, attract and let your business stand out.

Below are 15 guidelines to assist you in choosing the perfect fit for your salon/spa:

MARKET' Who is your market? Into what price class do they fall (ie.what can they afford? Look at businesses in the area and ask your clients or

potential clients what they would pay for specific products. If you have existing clients, do an online survey or give specific clients some samples of the range(s) to try and comment within a certain period. Also, what are their product expectations?

LEVELS' Should you only stock one level of products, or should you consider a lower- or higher-end range, too?

Thus, two levels. Sometimes a client can’t afford the higher-end range any more so she can use the lowerend range in part or in full. At other times, she may want something more

Professional Beauty September 2015

active or specific, which the higherend range could offer. Stocking only one level could limit your appeal to potential clients, whereas two levels would provide your clients with a wider choice.

CORE' What is the core of your business offering and vision? Is it organic, spa, medical, basic, wellness, or something else entirely? Your product range(s) should be aligned to this and thus be either organic, offer spa products such as bath additives and indulgent products, be at the peak of medical technology,

online at www.probeauty.co.za

offer the foundational basics, or encourage wellness with internal support products.

MATHS' You need to know up front what you are in for when you start ordering product from a brand. What is the opening order for your chosen brand/s and is this within your budget? Is there flexibility within the opening order should some lines in the range not move within the first few months?

Mark-up is the percentage added from the cost price to the recommended selling price (RSP).

Margin is the percentage if you work it backwards from the RSP to the cost price.

Profit margin is key, and should be at 40% for a healthy business. Most brands offer 30-33%, while some offer 40-45%. Others base your margin on your orders, with a higher margin for larger orders.

PAYMENT TERMS' Confirm whether payment terms are pre-payment, cash on delivery (COD), or 30 days. Try to negotiate the best possible terms. If you get a ‘no’ then enquire if better terms could be considered with consistent larger orders.

DELIVERY FEES' Consider where the range is distributed from, as this could affect your delivery fees. See if you can negotiate no fees or lower fees over a certain order total. Consider a range that is distributed from an area close to you, to save on delivery fees and delivery time. This will also allow you to order at short notice.

Before the treatment Wrinkle formation/loss of elasticity

After the third treatment Regeneration of tissue

The original HERBAL PEELING 3 ways to more beautiful and healthy skin.

r a highly SEARCHING fo tor! ssional distribu profe

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Visit us at stand

MARKETING SUPPORT' What does the brand’s marketing support involve and what is included at no cost? In addition, what R

The power of natural beauty. www.greenpeel.com

international@schrammek.de

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marketing costs are involved and does this relate to order levels?

Enquire about the marketing of the brand to the end-user via social media, magazines, newspapers, and the like. How active is the brand on these forums? What events can they host at your salon/spa and what gifting can they offer in terms of goodie bags and/or prize hampers?

Will they be present at events and will they do teaser treatments and manage consultations? Do they offer a listing of salons on their website; should someone in your area look for a stockist close by?

Do they design promotions for you specifically, or design specific promotions where your details are added? Do they offer something unique at events?

Lastly, do they have brand ambassadors to build the brand?

money or other to drive retail sales of their range in your salon/ spa; perhaps even sending top stockists on a trip overseas.

• Partnered sponsorship of your salon/spa ambassador(s) with respect to their product allocation.

• Special pricing for staff orders.

'SYNERGY' Do you and the brand think alike, have visions that align and seem to just ‘click’? It is essential that you have a rapport with the people in the company and their way of doing things, and not only the product.

LOCAL VS INTERNATIONAL' RED TAPE'

What do your competitors in the area offer? Should you offer something similar or different? What is your strategy regarding this?

Often a salon/spa gets frustrated by delays in getting feedback from suppliers on issues due to red tape.

Often, when the answer is received, the momentum has already been lost. It would be more beneficial to align with a brand that provides quick responses to allow for sustained momentum.

SCOPE'

EDUCATION'

What is the scope within the range – do they only offer face products or also body products? Do they have some organic options or internal supplements? Do they cater for the male market too? Do they offer higher-end and more active products? Do they continually strive to be at the forefront of technology and trends and are they innovative?

What does the brand bring to the party? Consider the following: • Product training: In-house or not, or both? How frequent? How professional? Any cost?

• Industry training: Do they offer training on retail skills and more detailed skin/body education?

• Are network sessions with other o w n e r s /m a n a g e r s / t h e r a p i s t s offered?

• Are workshops hosted with outside speakers to allow stockists to stay inspired and be leaders in the industry?

COMPETITION'

HISTORY & REFERENCES' What is the history of the brand? Are they new and still finding their feet, with you being part of the learning process? Or have they been around for a while, with streamlined systems, extensive support and can they solve challenges easily?

Speak to a few current stockists of the brand and get references from them.

'INVEST' How much will the brand invest in your team? Do you have to meet any requirements in order for this to happen? This would involve: • Incentives in terms of products or

Professional Beauty September 2015

South Africa offers a large variety of quality product ranges. You have the choice to support ‘Proudly South-African’ and go local. The plus side is that prices should stay pretty constant with realistic annual increases. Product pricing could also be better, with no import duties and fewer middle men. If foreigners and tourists are part of your market a local African brand could be key.

International brands, especially ones from Europe, are sometimes more highly regarded by clients.

As the rand-dollar and rand-euro exchange rates fluctuate, it can result in more than one increase per year or larger increases than local brands. Can you or your clients absorb this without it affecting your business negatively?

Lastly, listen to your ‘gut’ – it always prevails. PB

Helena van der Vyver of 1ne s.p.a has more than 20 years of experience in the salon and spa industry.

She became a spa coach in 2014 for home salons, salons and spas. E-mail her on info@1nespa.co.za

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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Is beauty therapy a young woman’s job?

A well-groomed skincare therapist plays an important part in projecting the image of your beauty business, and glowing, youthful staff are a walking testimony to your service offering. Helena Raats investigates what the future holds for therapists as they age.

W

omen in their early twenties not only offer the allure of youthful skin, but are often affordable employees due to their limited experience.

Generally, therapists over 35 years of age are not a common sight in salons, spas and nail bars. Research shows that once a woman reaches her 30s, she moves onto the next stage of her life – marriage, children and financial stability become important.

According to www.payscale.com, a website that surveys salaries, a study (updated on 1 July 2015) of 94 beauty therapists, revealed that most people

move on to other jobs and industries after 20 years’ experience – which would put them at around 40 years of age. The average salary (across South Africa including small towns) for a beauty therapist varies from R2 900 ­­- R12 000 per month, with the national average being about R5 800 (for individuals with one to four years’ working experience). Only 14% of the 94 people that participated in the survey had more than 10 years’ experience. More than 90% received a basic salary and commission, but no benefits such as medical aid, pension or provident funds.

Interestingly, 35 nail technicians were also surveyed – results showed

Professional Beauty September 2015

that the average monthly salary (including commission) is about R4 400. With proper training and good product, the barrier to entry is low and it’s relatively easy to become a mobile therapist and start a business.

“Unless beauty is a real passion, many therapists leave the industry for more lucrative job opportunities elsewhere,” says Solette Bell (37), owner of Carmen de Beauté Salon in Mokopane, Limpopo. “Beauty treatments are hard work, and have you standing on your feet often performing back-to-back treatments on a daily basis.

“You need to be a people’s person and must be able to put your clients at

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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“Unless beauty is a real passion, many therapists leave the industry for more lucrative job opportunities elsewhere.”

Solette Bell

ease and have the ability to make them feel better, as you often offer more than just beauty therapy,” she explains. “You need to have stamina, focus and compassion, or else you will simply find yourself mentally drained as well.”

Bell started working as a skincare therapist after completing her studies in somatology. At the tender age of 22, she secured a business loan and bought the salon where she was working when the owner decided to retire. “We were about 30 somatology students starting out. Seventeen years later, I know of only about six that have remained in the beauty industry and now own their own businesses.”

Specific skills set Probably one of the most inspirational individuals in the beauty profession is Helene Bramwell, owner of The Mask Skin and Body Clinic in Parkview, Johannesburg. Bramwell has worked as a professional skincare therapist since 1966 and opened her clinic in 1971. She is also a CIDESCO Gold Medallist and Honorary President and the recipient of various awards.

Bramwell, who still works as a skincare therapist herself, agrees that salary plays a major part in peoples’ decisions to leave the industry. However, the skincare therapists working in her clinic have between five and 28 years of service.

“I believe that being a skincare professional is more than a labour of love, it is backed by sound knowledge and expertise and is often under-valued by the profession itself and by allied disciplines,” she explains. “As with any profession, it is up to the practitioner to keep updated. If we acknowledge and nurture our important role, our jobs will never become tedious, repetitive and monotonous.”

She believes that skincare therapists are not always given the professional status they deserve.

“Many skincare therapists are looking for status and recognition,” she says, “some feel elevated assisting in the aesthetics field, while others find satisfaction by getting involved with industry organisations, research and marketing. R

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“We often give our clients a sense of value and purpose – something we need to do for ourselves. Everyone in the field of medical aesthetics needs to acknowledge our value and ensure the value comes in the pay package.”

for the lodges I worked for in setting-up spas and salons, but no longer actively work as a skincare therapist,” she explains.

Age is just a number

Investing in staff According to South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals (SAAHSP) education chairperson, Tracy Chambers, many businesses do not want to invest in training for their staff. “Often they prefer to self-train, because obviously they want the highest return on investment possible.”

Chambers believes that because there are so many skincare therapists available, it is easy to simply replace staff members. “It’s not that they don’t value training, but often they’re just not willing to invest financially until the therapists have proven themselves.”

However, she maintains that there are salon-owners that pay well and offer fair commission packages. “If you work hard, it is more than possible to build up a client base and earn a decent income working as a skincare therapist for many years.

“Many of my students admit that their parents will help them start their own businesses after they complete their studies,” says Tracy. “This means therapists in their early twenties work for a few years to gain the necessary experience so that they can open their own businesses.”

Others branch out and go work for product houses as educators or sales representatives, while others choose to continue their education and gain skills to work in related fields, such as medical aesthetics.

Physical strain For Mia Kruger (32), who finished her somatology studies at the Cape Peninsular University of Technology, working as a massage therapist on

“If you work hard, it is more than possible to build up a client base and earn a decent income working as a skincare therapist for many years.”

Tracy Chambers

the Harding luxury cruise liners and spending six years in various spas at luxury lodges doing massages and other treatments took its toll on her wrists.

“Years of doing deep tissue massages on a daily basis resulted in the development of repetitive strain injury (RSI) on my wrists and palms,” she says, adding that eventually she moved away from doing massages and concentrated on other treatments.

“I love working as a therapist and helping clients relax, but physically I just couldn’t continue doing several massages a day.”

In her late twenties, Kruger left the spa industry and, along with her husband, moved into a management role within the tourism realm.

“Financially, it made sense to move into a different industry, but my first love remains the spa industry.

“I have done some consulting work

Professional Beauty September 2015

Gail Barnard, principal of the Sandy Roy Beauty Therapy Institute, agrees that many therapists tend to start their own business, either as mobile therapists or salonowners, once they get older.

“Salary plays a major part and many try to capitalise on their skills by branching out on their own,” she says.

“Many work from home as it is convenient and can be a lucrative option if you have a solid client base.”

Barnard has also seen an interesting trend emerge in which more mature women are taking parttime courses. “Many older students, in their thirties and even forties, decide to take our modular courses. These are often women who have always had an interest in the beauty industry, but never had the opportunity to enter the field of study. They like the flexibility of the part-time courses which often allows them to study while raising a family or continue working. Some even launch a brandnew career or business, while others do it simply because they have a passion for the subject matter.”

It seems that there is no age limit for entry into the beauty industry, and, while mature applicants might come with a higher price tag, they often offer a stable personal set-up, which could be advantageous to employers. PB

Helena Raats is the former editor of Professional Beauty and several other business-to-business magazines. She has 20 years’ experience in publishing and owns a community newspaper in Limpopo.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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How do you successfully market your business?

Marketing any business takes careful planning and thought.

Getting yourself out there does not happen overnight, you need to consistently invest adequate time and money to achieve the best results, writes Sally Harvey.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

T

he two most important questions you should be asking yourself are: what do you do to market your business; and what should you be doing in order to take your business to the next level and achieve greater profitability? Let’s take a closer look at the following key factors:

Set a marketing budget If we look at the beauty industry specifically, we tend to invest most of our money in elements such as dĂŠcor, staffing, equipment and stock, but when it comes to focusing on ways to attract clientele, we are, in most instances, lost.

We cannot afford to rely solely on our existing client R

Professional Beauty September 2015

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base – even though they remain an important part of our business and need to be taken care of on a regular basis. The truth is that we should always be scouting for new business.

Top marketing gurus will tell you that you should be spending at least 3-6% of your turnover on marketing – and this is just to maintain your current revenue levels. In fact, in order to grow your business, you should be spending even more.

Hence the saying: ‘Marketing drives turnover – you need to spend more to grow more’.

Branding First and foremost, you need to create an identity – define who you are and what your business has to offer.

This then must be communicated clearly, and with some creativity and originality, through the following platforms: your logo, slogan, website and business cards. Thereafter your message needs to remain constant.

When it comes to creating a slogan or writing content for your website, decide beforehand what you want your business to be and what message you want to get across. For example: if you are a niche slimming salon, what are you going to say to differentiate yourself from your competitors, and is this message going to be enticing and remain memorable?

Website Turn your website into something that sells. There are far too many sites out there that exist among a fish bowl of competitors. Focus on how you are going to make your website interactive and successful for your business. Here are some important points to consider:

• How do you increase your lead generation?

• Search Engine Optimisation (SEO) – you need to get a professional to audit your website from the perspective of the user, and in this way work towards reaching the top five on Google Search. If you are sitting on page 20, no one is going to notice you.

• Online advertising – get noticed quickly by advertising online and increase your following and interest.

• Call-to-action functionality – you need to develop a call-to-action page on your website where those who are interested in your product or service can leave their contact details.

• Do you have testimonials/case studies?

• People believe in what other people say – make sure you have clients that have good things to say about your business and promote this on your website.

• Do you have a responsive layout that is user-friendly on all devices – mobile, desktop and tablet?

• Is the design simple and clean?

• It needs to be visual – visual content is 80% more responsive.

• Can visitors to your site share content on social media platforms?

• Do you have a blog connected to your site?

E-mail marketing Sending newsletters through bulk mailing platforms enables you to measure interest in your business

Professional Beauty September 2015

and to develop a database of potential/existing clients. It also provides you with a platform to share information, specials and new happenings at your facility – clients get to know more about you and it creates greater interest.

You need to create a subs form on your website to ensure you capture addresses and you need to drive subscriptions to the newsletter through a number of mediums. Think about strategically placing a QR, which clients can scan using their mobile devices and immediately subscribe to your newsletter.

Google adwords This is rated as one of the most effective means of driving traffic to your website – it instantly reaches thousands of people with outstanding results for business.

Although social media platforms are great to promote your brand to the market, they are not the core communicator – this will always remain your website. It is therefore imperative to draw people to your site, and then focus on social media to keep the conversation going. R

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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business tips

40 Let’s get social Where do your customers hang out?

You need to really focus on the main social media platforms where your potential or existing clients would be. It is better to choose only two platforms than to have too many.

Don’t try to be something to everyone as this is where you will fall short, marketing- and business-wise – find your niche and stick to it.

The next step is to look at what ideas you have to share – keep it social, personal, human. Don’t bore your audience with irrelevant information that is not directly related to your business and your service.

Also, clearly define your business and your personal self, and establish two separate platforms accordingly.

For example, you do not want to be discussing your Friday night drinking escapades with a client when they are booked in for a facial the next morning.

Be careful what you say on social media – it can have a negative effect long-term. Look at the backlash some celebrities still face from what was posted eight years ago, even though they are very different people today.

Fair Lady recently published a story on a number of people, such as Justine Sacco, who have lost their jobs, and worse, been publicly ostracised by society, due to the tweets they have sent.

The same applies to your business – keep it professional at all times. You have an image to uphold and maintain

– lose that and you lose your clients.

If you are not familiar with social media, I strongly advise that you rather commission a professional person in this field to do it for you. The reason: there are specific strategies in place to get optimal results, such as days to post, times, and type of content. What’s more, these are forever changing, so you really need the time to research and evaluate what is best to increase your following and interest.

Build a content plan When it comes to content for social media, try not to be too formal, rather have a conversation. Also, try to find your point of difference and communicate it in such a way as it grabs attention, connects with your

mobile media facts • 80% of consumers search for a product/service before purchasing it • 70% read online reviews before making purchasing decisions • 68% of consumers begin their decision-making while searching for a keyword

• In 2014 mobile internet usage exceeded desktop usage • Mobile adspend hit $11.8bn in 2014 • 100 hours of video are uploaded to YouTube every minute. 2/3 of the world’s data will be video by 2017.

*Source for statistics: www.collectingbooks.net

Professional Beauty September 2015

audience and is something they will want to share – this is where a blog works so well. Find articles that will be of interest to your followers and share – share interesting stories and facts but stay clear of posting your specials too much (keep this rather for your newsletter and website).

Focus on digital marketing As we all know there are various ways to market your business – some of which have been discussed already – others include newspaper, magazine and online advertising, billboards, street pole promotions, pamphlets and so on. Although it is always good to have a holistic approach to marketing, and, as such, to focus on a variety of options, social media has really come to the fore in terms of instant, more measurable results.

If we look at digital marketing specifically, I have a three-tier approach which works wonders: actively post on social media, develop a blog on your site – stats have shown that you can receive 54% more traffic to your website by doing so – and advertise your business online. PB Sally Harvey, owner of the Edge Communications, has over 15 years of experience in publishing, working on both consumer and trade titles. She has developed skills in writing, public relations, and marketing, and built strong relationships with the media, as well as key players from a variety of industries.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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Excuse me sir – hands off!

A little-talked-about but highly sensitive topic is that of how therapists should behave when their male clients behave inappropriately. Spa consultant Philippa Abbott offers this advice.

I

have decided to approach this subject from a light-hearted point of view as I feel that this is the only way with which one can deal with it. As a therapist you are more than likely going to have to deal with at least one ‘perve’ in your working career, but, instead of falling to pieces and turning the situation into a big drama, it is best just to deal with it in the most nonchalant way possible.

For some reason we all seem to have to deal with ‘those clients’ at the beginning of our careers and I do find that it is more prevalent when the therapist is young, and, yes, slightly more attractive.

I think the opportunistic predator often feels he will be more successful with a younger, less experienced

conquest. But even if you are still inexperienced, by handling this problem from a place of maturity, you will always come out the winner. That it will happen to you is pretty much a given, so just take it in your stride and regard it as something you will look back on with a mixture of humour and pity, as opposed to sheer terror.

Misconception It is always a touchy subject (excuse the pun) but one that comes up (oh goodness, the innuendos continue!) often, and, no matter how much therapists try to get away from it, there is always the connotation in the mind of those few, seedy male clients between the services

Professional Beauty September 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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Skin has many faces®

Competence in care and problem solving. r a highly SEARCHING fo tor! ssional distribu profe

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offered at a spa/salon and those performed at more obscure establishments. I can only put this connotation down to the fact that we therapists use touch, and this is somehow misconstrued as being linked with the service offering of our more sensual counterparts. When you combine the expectations of a male client who has little experience within the spa environment and of the actual service we offer, lines (in his mind at any rate) can become blurred.

We then find ourselves slap bang in the middle of one of these uncomfortable situations.

‘Family jewels’ In saying that, ‘these situations’ are, however, not isolated to massage treatments. I remember my R

Professional Beauty September 2015

The power of medical beauty. www.schrammek.com

international@schrammek.de

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Three prevention steps It’s not like you need a massive arsenal of heavy machinery to be prepared. You just need to do the following:

❶ Firstly, the advances from these types of clients are completely unacceptable, so just shut it down as it happens. You do not have to get rude, in fact, please DON’T! This will amplify the situation, as ‘Creepy Joe’ is now embarrassed that his advances have been rejected. Just be firm and tell him in the most efficient way possible that you are a professional therapist and that your treatment is purely therapeutic.

❷ Secondly, if he persists, then give him a cooling-off period. Inform him that you are going to leave the room for him to compose himself and that you will be back in five minutes to resume his treatment.

❸ Thirdly, if he continues regardless, you need to advise him that he has now gone

first encounter with an inappropriate client. I was working on a cruise ship and the client came in for a slimming treatment – an electrical one. I explained the treatment and left the room while he changed. When I re-entered, he was perched on the chair with the ‘family jewels’ placed outside of the paper underwear.

Being the timid 21-year-old that I was, I did not expect to handle it like I did, but I soldiered on. Even when he stood in front of me so I could take the ‘before’ fat measurements and his manhood was in my direct eye line, I just stayed calm and composed and continued the treatment.

He managed to get hold of my arm when the ‘electrocution’ phase of the treatment was in full force and give it a little tickle. Needless to say I pulled my arm away immediately, gave him a stern look, turned up the machine, excused myself and went to scrub my arm with a metal brush.

So the point I’m making is, no matter how clear you are on your website regarding the definition of your service offering, or even in your

too far and that unfortunately you cannot continue with the treatment. You can advise him to get dressed and settle up at reception. I would recommend allowing a more senior staff member to handle the situation from that point onwards; otherwise it could turn into a ‘he said, she said’ situation. But, nine times out of 10, the ‘gentlemen’ will just pay, leave, and not kick up a fuss, to avoid further embarrassment.

I do not think that any amount of advice can really prepare you for an experience like this because each is so different from the other. As with any sexual advance – every man’s approach is different – all I can stress is composure, just breathe in and behave as maturely as you can.

pre-treatment consultation, there is ALWAYS someone who will overstep the line – a pervert with a suggestive mind who lands on your treatment couch. It always makes you feel uncomfortable and blush 50 shades of pink when you have to deal with the situation that has arisen right before your very eyes, so best be prepared.

Small percentage I must stress too that you must not let this article deter you from wanting to treat men, as not all of them are like this. Only a small percentage of males still subscribe to the old school

Professional Beauty September 2015

mentality that we are running a risqué business and not an up-market spa or salon. The spa-goer of today has matured in general, and we encounter less and less the male clients who think that we are just undercover ‘ladies of the night’.

If you are the owner of a spa or salon please be sure to have a set protocol in place to deal with these situations.

Your staff must feel supported by you above all when they are confronted with an inappropriate client. It gives them the confidence to deal with the client in the right way and deters them from blowing anything out of proportion. PB Philippa Abbott is the owner of Spa Sense Consultants. A qualified somatologist and advanced make-up artist, Abbott has worked for two of the UK’s leading spa brands and spent five and a half years with the Spas of Distinction Group in South Africa as part of the management team.

Email: Philippa@spasense.co.za

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business tips

46

The right stuff Effective implementation of standards and procedures in the salon not only translates into a low staff turnover, but can also affect your bottom line, writes Neale Roberts.

A

common frustration felt by most businessowners is that staff do not fulfil their roles to the standards that the owner, themselves, have set and demand. The recurring mistake lies in wishing to find staff with your passion and work ethic, as opposed to implementing systems within your business that will drive the very performance levels you seek.

Always start on a good footing, with a job description for new employees, listing the duties which are expected of them. It is never too late to start, so implementing one for each of your current employees will help define roles and responsibilities. This will ultimately drive work ethic. By listing the daily and monthly tasks each employee is expected to perform, you will easily find (and fill) the gaps in your systems and procedures, ensuring the service levels demanded by yourself and the brand you have built.

Staff development A simple system to ensure high performance within your business environment is to hold Staff Development Meetings. This weekly meeting keeps roles and responsibilities in check, and employees accountable for the same. Key to the success of this initiative is consistency.

If consistent, this scheduled weekly meeting need never be longer

Always start on a good footing, with a job description for new employees, listing the duties which are expected of them.

than 30 minutes.

The agenda should have clear direction, with a specific outcome in mind. By understanding the needs of both your staff and your business, the meeting will not only maintain focus on the vision and goals of your business, but also present a valuable platform for training and skills development.

Induction meeting New employees should attend an induction meeting, outlining the process of their induction into the business and their training.

This effectively ensures that, from the outset, your employee clearly understands the vision of the company, their role within the company, as well as what is required of them, and at what level. A handover or shadowing period is a very positive initiative and well worth the time, if possible.

This induction period should also include evaluations and feedback, identifying growth areas and positively reinforcing strengths. Constructive feedback is the single most motivating

Professional Beauty September 2015

factor in a new job.

Appraisals are simple to construct and very important for a number of reasons.

They enable owners to keep track of both staff and company performance by maintaining a scorecard of how staff match the requirements of the company’s objectives and strategy. Value lies in an appraisal’s record of performance management issues. These records prove invaluable, should you be faced with disciplinary issues, when the required performance may not match the expected performance. However, appraisals should never be used for negative non-performance purposes or purely for salary reviews. PB Neale Roberts, entrepreneur and co-founder of Coach in the Corner, is a qualified assessor and moderator, who has taught strategy and leadership at various international business schools.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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spa focus

48

The Recruitment Council The lifeline of your spa is without a doubt your staff and sourcing the right team is the difference between a business that plods along and a soaring success, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.

T

here are two areas I would like to focus on when recruiting staff – personality types and references. I feel that if more time and energy are spent on these two areas you will end up making the correct decision in terms of who you choose to join your team.

Most salons and spas land up hiring a staff member based on how they like the person when they meet them, or based on how good the person represents themselves at interview level. Big mistake!

First let’s get an understanding of what the different personality types are and then of what the perfect team in a salon business needs to be in order for it to flourish.

Research shows that behavioural characteristics are grouped together in four main personality types known as DISC. D – The Driver I – The Influencer S – The Steady Specialist C – The Competent or Compliant

Perfect mix The perfect team in a salon/ spa business need the following: a ‘D’ personality to lead, be the

problem solver and self-starter; an ‘I’ personality to be talkative, enthusiastic, fun and emotional; an ‘S’ to be a good listener and team player and to be predictable and understanding; and a ‘C’ to be analytical, precise, systematic and maintain the highest standards and be systematic.

The ‘D’ should ideally be the owner and manager of the salon, as well as head therapist. Don’t employ too many ‘D’ personalities or you will have too many clashes. ‘D’ personality therapists don’t like to be told what to do and are not the best team players.

An ‘I’ is an excellent person to have at the front desk. This is also the ‘must-have’ personality for all therapists and nail technicians and they excel at sales. ‘I’ therapists are excellent team players and very creative, so get them involved in your marketing and events.

The ‘S’ personality trait is essential for any therapist as this is the caring, gentle listener type of personality that is really necessary for the treatment room. Their booking rate is phenomenal but they are not the best at sales.

A ‘C’ is perfect for dealing with

Professional Beauty September 2015

money, bookings and organising specific details for functions and the running of the business.

If you are recruiting new staff, make sure you are filling the personality gaps in your team. As much as you might love a person you meet, if they don’t fit the personality profile you require for the team, than keep searching.

References The second area I want to emphasise is the importance of calling and following up on candidates’ references. Don’t phone the references listed on the CV but rather phone the previous employers who are not listed as references but are listed as previous employment. And phone at least three references.

Take your time and ensure that you perform a thorough recruitment process. Rather that than being stuck with the wrong personalities and a business that is stumbles along and does not grow. PB Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants.

E-mail her on marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.

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spa focus

50

Luis and Sabrina Rodrigues

A touch of class A finalist in the 2014 Professional Beauty Awards, The Camelot Spa at The Regent recently introduced a new skincare brand and added some exciting design elements to its décor, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

S

ituated within the prestigious Regent Apartment Hotel in the heart of the Sandton CBD, the luxurious Camelot Spa opened its doors at the beginning of November 2013.

Interestingly, owner Sabrina Rodrigues does not have a background in beauty.

“I am a clinical psychologist by trade, but love a challenge, and whatever I set my mind to, I tend to achieve, as I am dedicated and very determined to succeed. Thanks to my spa, I’ve now developed knowledge of the beauty industry,” she says.

When asked why she opted for the Camelot Spa brand, Rodriques responds: “My husband Luis and I chose this brand as it’s very regal. In business I believe in quality and not quantity, and the Camelot brand offers that to its customers.

“As to how we ended up at The Regent, the property owners approached the Camelot Group because they wanted something

drink and our new display gives them an excellent idea of the quality of products we use,” she comments.

Brand wise

5-Star and that’s exactly what we offer our clients.”

She describes the style of the spa as elegant and classic. “I prefer light colours, which is what I incorporated into the design as they bring with them tranquillity and calmness. Our rooms are cosy, with exquisite finishes.”

Rodrigues recently added decorative paintings of nail lacquer on the walls, as well as new shelving for retail nail polishes for clients to view and access better, making the area neat and vibrant.

“It’s easier for clients to select a polish while drinking their welcome

Professional Beauty September 2015

The DermaFix Advanced Cosmeceutical range has now been added to the spa’s offering.

“I believe that everyone needs to be able to afford a facial together with its specific homecare products and DermaFix is not only a quality product, but it’s also cost-effective for the client who can’t afford to spend thousands of rands,” says Rodrigues.

As with all Camelot Spas, the house brand for The Regent Spa is premium French brand Thalgo, which caters for any skin type.

The spa also offers face and body treatments for pregnant women with the Mama Mio brand.

Clientele The Regent Apartment Hotel has a vast variety of clientele, both longand short-term guests, some of whom are spa-goers.

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“Approximately 75% of our clientele is external, with the remainder coming from The Regent itself.

One of our favourite clients is Graça Machel, former First Lady of Mozambique and wife of the late Nelson Mandela, who comes in every two weeks for a facial.”

Rodrigues herself Spa at a glance manages the spa and Owner: Sabrina Rodrigues employs a receptionist Size: 140m2 to handle calls and Hydro facilities: Steam bookings. room, sauna and heated “I believe the indoor pool individual attention we Number of treatment give each client, and rooms: 4 the fact that we can Number of manicure & always accommodate pedicure stations: 2 of and change treatments each according to the client’s Number of full-time needs, differentiates us therapists: 3 from other spas.

Brands: Thalgo, DermaFix “Another unusual aspect of our spa is that we do our buddy scrubs in the steam room to maximise moisture and glow to the skin,” says Rodrigues.

She notes that the Camelot Universal Massage, in which candle wax is used, is the spa’s signature treatment, and makes clients feel as if they are in Bali. PB

• User-friendly booking and scheduling management • Client history and relationship management • Advanced employee scheduling and tracking • Comprehensive stock control and supplier history • Complete voucher management • E-mail and SMS marketing with mail merge • Track sales and cash and manage purchasing • Real-time reservation and retail ordering engine

Professional Beauty September 2015

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52

The power of natural pharmacology Danné Montague-King compares the medical effects of the humble leech to that of skin-replicating amino acids.

F

rom the Ancient Egyptian era, circa 1500 BC, through to the period of the Bubonic Plague in the 14th century, leeches were used in medical practices to manipulate the skin. Even Nostradamus used leeches in this way.

Many centuries later, in 2004, the FDA (Food & Drug Administration) cleared the first application for leeches to be used in modern medicine as medical devices. What makes this amazing is that man, with his vast array of science, still relies on an organism made by Mother Nature to perform a very basic but life-saving task – sucking blood.

Leeches are amazing organisms because of their natural ability to attach to the skin and extract blood, whilst secreting biological agents that inhibit pain. Plastic and cosmetic surgeons use leeches in special rescue cases. when blood flow is critical to

the survival of a small limb or severed fingers, ears or detached scalp. This is achieved by reconnecting major arteries and veins, whereby the leeches prevent fresh, oxygenated blood from entering the affected area, clotting and causing cellular death.

The leeches are applied to the tissue and they actively remove blood and secrete numerous compounds that have a vasodilator, anticoagulant, and clot-dissolving properties. This prevents the tissue from dying off and allows the body to re-establish safe blood flow to the reattached part.

Enzymes I have found by creating the right compositions of topical enzymes and activating them to stimulate the skin, we can trigger a unique anti-ageing effect in the skin. This is similar to the ‘leech effect’, because activated enzymes are oxygenating and increase microcirculation. Additionally, they

remove toxins, increase nutrient supply and accelerate the fitness of the skin all in one, in the space of 45 minutes.

Amino acids move deep into the skin through an occlusive barrier that increases heat and metabolic activity.

Like leeches, there is a vasodilatation effect that results in a ‘plasmatic effect’, which can actually be seen in the skin. The difference is that it is all over in under an hour, and you don’t have to succumb to any bloodthirsty leeches.

We are then able to use further topical ingredients to stimulate collagen and elastin activity in the skin as well as inhibit and remove oxidative processes, also known as reactive oxygen species, through prescriptive home care.

I have seen enzymes produce amazing results for horrific conditions and scars, which would normally take months or even years to repair.

With my network of doctors, specialists and therapists, I feel we have helped thousands of patients and made a real difference to the longevity of their skin. PB Danné Montague-King, founder of the DMK skincare empire, has won international recognition and endorsement by the medical profession for pioneering a skin rejuvenation system that recognises the importance of offering skin cells a chemistry they recognise.

Professional Beauty September 2015

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This exciting skin care range is based on the principle of natural pharmacology. The cells of the skin respond positively to the chemistry they recognise.

DMK Skin Revision Protocols can offer you: • New clientele with high levels of client retention and satisfaction • A competitive advantage in an ever-changing market • Pre and Post Operative Treatment Protocols for medical procedures • Alignment with medical practices • The benefits of high retail margins • International education and marketing support

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lasers

56

A laser-sharp beam of light As non-invasive face and body therapies and treatments steadily rise in popularity globally, Joanna Sterkowicz looks at some of the latest laser technologies on the market.

M

edilase has introduced two lasers into the local market that target unusual trends in laser applications, namely vaginal treatments and nail fungus.

Says Wicus Olivier Junior of Medilase: “Both systems have been on the European market for some time and are therefore tried and tested. The Gynelase system, manufactured

by INTERmedic, presents a laser

solution for the comprehensive wellbeing of the female genital area. It is indicated for atrophy of the vaginal mucosa, vaginal relaxation syndrome, female urinary incontinence and vaginal rejuvenation, among other indications.”

Olivier explains that Gynelase is a fractional CO2 laser that combines photo-thermal power with the delicacy of treatment necessary in an area that is as sensitive as the interior of the vagina. “This laser offers a minimally invasive laser option for intimate rejuvenation and tightening of the vaginal canal. It is an outpatient, anaesthesia-free procedure with no downtime. All procedures are effective, safe, comfortable, risk- and complication-free solutions.”

The Gynelase technology works with software designed for the different applications and delivers the energy fractionally. For maximum safety this laser has precise control of depth, percentage of area treated, energy and density delivered per point.

Onychomycosis

Gynelase

According to Olivier, nail fungus (onychomycosis) in toes and fingers was, until recently, a health complication with few treatment options.

“Topical or oral anti-fungal have limited results and undesired side effects,” he says. “INTERmedic has designed a new laser, the S30PODYLAS, for treating onychomycosis in a

Professional Beauty September 2015

fast and quick way. This laser is also indicated for small podiatric surgery, foot and ankle telangiectasias, plantar warts and hellomas.

“S30PODYLAS is a solid-state laser of 1064 wavelength and high peak power. This is long-lasting technology with no maintenance cost at a very affordable price.”

The laser produces a thermal effect that effectively eliminates nail fungus infections. High laser pulses penetrate into the tissue through the nail, heating the targeted area and reaching the deepest infection to reach the fungus without damaging the surrounding tissues.

Treatments are safe, comfortable and very fast – all 10 toes are treated in 15 minutes.

Selective photothermolysis The Elysion from Cocoon Medical is a 1000W Diode laser for hair removal that works by using the selective photothermolysis principle, reaching high temperatures which destroy the follicle without affecting adjacent tissue.

Says Danelle Landman, clinical trainer at distributor Radiant Healthcare: “The Elysion has a peak power of up to 10J in 20 milliseconds and is designed to work on all areas and all skin types.

“Cocoon Medical has developed and patented ‘crystal freeze’ – a cooling system for the tip of the handpiece based on the TRT (thermal relaxation R

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lasers

58 Elysion from Cocoon Medical

time). This is the time necessary to reduce the temperature generated by the light emission on the tissue or structures on which it is working.”

Landman adds that, thanks to its accuracy and high shot repetition, Elysion can work on all areas of the body, greatly reducing session time and achieving the best results.

after just three to five treatment sessions.”

Olivier describes the ResurFX as a 1565nm fibre laser system for fractional non-ablative skin resurfacing. Typical applications are pigmentation problems, age spots, acne scars, fine lines and wrinkles. It is also suitable for rejuvenating the skin and brightening skin tone. ResurFX uses innovative patent-pending technology that allows for results to be seen after only one pass of the laser.

Photofractional

‘Beauty’-full range

Lumenis has introduced a treatment regime which is a combination of its ResurFX laser and an IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) treatment – the Photofractional Treatment.

Says Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers: “This rejuvenation technology from Lumenis combines two solutions, IPL and ResurFX non-ablative skin resurfacing, so that both skin tone and texture can be treated simultaneously.

Consequently, multiple skin concerns are addressed in a single procedure.

“Clients desiring enhanced rejuvenation can benefit from a Photofractional treatment, which treats signs of ageing, including sun damage, acne scars, wrinkles, uneven texture and unwanted pigmentation.

Lumenis IPL technology removes both unwanted pigmentation and blood vessels from the skin, while the ResurFX fractional laser stimulates the production of new collagen and elastic fibres in the deeper layers of the skin. ” Olivier points out that since both ResurFX and IPL are FDA-approved, a Photofractional treatment is a safe and effective way to restore a more youthful aesthetic. “This innovative Photofractional technology is clinically validated to gradually achieve noticeable results, with minimum downtime. Clients will notice results

Alma Beauty’s recently launched range of lasers include Alma Beauty Remove (for hair removal); Alma Beauty Rejuve (skin rejuvenation and improving skin tone and texture); and Alma Beauty Reform (for ageing skin).

Says distributor Andrew Best of Best Lasers: “Alma Beauty Remove offers the safest and most effective hair removal solution available today, leading the way with technology, versatility and convenience.

Aestheticians are now able to treat all skin tones and the widest range of hair types, 365 days a year.

“Alma Beauty Remove features the patented SHR, which has earned global recognition and is used in top level clinics worldwide. It works

Alma Beauty Remove

Professional Beauty September 2015

by gradually heating the dermis to a temperature that effectively damages the hair follicles, preventing them from growing back, while protecting the surrounding skin. The hair follicles are not exposed to a single pulse of high energy, which can injure the skin, but rather receive multiple, short, low energy pulses until enough heat energy is generated to damage the hair follicle.”

The trademarked In-motion technique used with SHR involves moving the applicator repeatedly over the treatment area, applying energy over a large grid – not just the area of the hair follicle. Best points out that Alma Beauty Rejuve provides a wide range of treatments for face and body. “Treatments are suitable for all skin types (I-VI) and are completely safe for thin and delicate areas, including the neck and décolleté, as well as hands, arms and stretch marks. Results include an improvement in the appearance of vascular and pigmented lesions, pore size reduction, and improved tone and texture for smooth, silky and shiny skin.”

The laser’s Dye-PL technology (Dye Pulsed Light) harnesses light energy from a very precise narrow band spectrum, for accurate treatments. It uses a narrow band filter to limit the wavelength range for optimal absorption by the melanin, haemoglobin and oxyhaemoglobin.

Alma Beauty Reform offers innovative technologies to successfully meet the challenges of age-related facial skin imperfections, including wrinkles, fine lines, skin tone and laxity. For body, Reform provides solutions for body contouring, skin tightening, and cellulite. All treatments are safe, effective and suitable for all skin types (I-VI) as well as for thin and delicate areas.

“Reform’s patented UniPolar technology uses dielectric heating – focused and powerful heating – which transmits high radiofrequency energy directly to the targeted tissue via a single electrode. Delivering this focused energy up to 20mm deep creates a rapid rotation of water molecules within the skin, causing friction and generating deep, effective and safe dermal heating without discomfort.” says Best. PB

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treatment review – hair removal

61

Seeing the ‘light’ Reinette Chaane turns to the Lumenis Lightsheer Infinity Diode laser for her hair removal issues.

I

have had a problem with unwanted body and facial hair since I was 16. My friends and I often talked about the drawbacks of having hair removal treatments on our dark African skin, as they were said to be painful, with bad results. I became hesitant about trying laser treatment as someone said that it could cause dark pigmentation scars.

When I met with the team from Hitech Lasers, I learnt that there is now a pain-free treatment option for darkskinned people that really works. In addition I discovered that there is no such thing as permanent hair removal – only permanent hair reduction.

Hitech Lasers offered me a treatment session to alleviate my fears and promised to prove that laser hair removal on black skin could be successful with the new Lumenis Lightsheer Infinity Diode laser.

Wicus Olivier Junior from Hitech explained the difference between the Lumenis Lightsheer Infinity and other laser systems on the market. Once I understood the Infinity’s efficacy and safety, I was willing to give it a go.

Two days before the initial treatment, the therapist did a test patch to ensure that I had no adverse reaction. Due to the delayed response time in skin of colour, test patches should be done about 48 to 72 hours before the actual treatment to assess the outcome. After the successful outcome of the test patch, I opted to start with a leg treatment, and I am very pleased with the results.

Olivier explained that the Lightsheer Infinity is a dual wavelength laser

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platform; the 805nm and 1060nm wavelengths enable the treatment of lighter as well as darker skin types and tanned skin, all year round. The increased penetration of the 1060nm Nd: YAG laser was the treatment of choice for my dark skin because this wavelength is least absorbed by the melanin pigment in the epidermis, but it often still sees the melanin in the hair shaft.

Once the large (22 x 35mm) treatment head was placed on my leg, the vacuum gently drew my skin into the handpiece, stretching it thin and pulling the targeted hair shaft closer to the energy source. I felt only a slight suction sensation and no pain at all. The Infinity’s vacuum-assisted HighSpeed Integrated Technology (HIT) and low fluency was the reason

I enjoyed the fastest and most comfortable treatment I could have imagined. The therapist explained that the laser pulse targets the existing hair, creating a direction of energy into the hair follicles that prevents future growth.

After my treatment there was some initial redness around the hair follicles, which, according to the therapist, pointed to a positive result, indicating that the follicles had responded to the treatment.

I absolutely loved my treatment – it was truly amazing and beyond all expectations. I can’t wait for the next session. PB Contact: Hitech Lasers 012 349 1250

Professional Beauty September 2015

treatment review – hair removal

62

In search of hair-free days Armed with a set of really hairy legs and underarms, Ryan Rudman decides to try the new Cerazyme Rejuvenation DNA Mask Wax from Depilève.

W

hen I arrived at the offices of Depilève distributor Smart Buy, area manager Adri Maritz explained that the Cerazyme Rejuvenation DNA Mask Wax is a cosmetic wax, in that it has a beneficial effect on the skin.

The Mask Wax contains Jojoba, Urea and Lactic Acid, and is a resin-free mineral wax for sensitive skin.

“In addition to its highly effective and practically painless hair removal function, Cerazyme rejuvenates sagging skin,” said Maritz. “It is the first wax ever to mix water-soluble ingredients in an oil-soluble base, making it possible to apply a cosmetic care treatment simultaneously while waxing.”

She went on to explain that the Cerazyme DNA Serum and Creams comprise a patented formula of active ingredients that includes Q10 Coenzyme, which slows down wrinkle formation and improves skin elasticity, while stimulating skin regeneration. Other key ingredients are Marine DNA Filaments to revitalise the skin, and NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor) to protect the skin from dehydration. Cerazyme DNA Serum also includes Poppy Seed Oil as it is exceptionally rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, as well as Andiroba Oil.

Maritz continued: “Cerazyme is suitable for facial, intimate and body epilation and really tones sagging skin in all areas. It also has a derma-planing effect as it removes dead skin cells at the surface of the skin and aids in pore reduction.

“Because the wax is a microcrystalline formulation, it allows for a thinner application.”

Maritz cleansed my armpits with the Depilève Dermo Balance, followed by the Cerazyme DNA Serum. She then applied the wax, which is a deep purple in colour, in a thin film application.

“The wax changes colour to indicate when it is ready to be removed,” said Maritz.

Sure enough, the wax changed to a lilac shade once dry, whereupon Maritz removed it. I’ve had strip wax treatments before and Cerazyme is far less painful – in fact, I barely felt the removal.

Professional Beauty September 2015

Once the area had been waxed, Maritz again applied the Cerazyme DNA Serum, followed by the Cerazyme Body Balm. She repeated the treatment on my calves. Both legs and armpits were completely smooth and hairless posttreatment.

As Maritz was keen to demonstrate Cerazyme on the upper lip area, I asked my colleague, Joanna Sterkowicz, to stand in. Joanna was a bit concerned about the after-effects of the wax, as she has a very sensitive skin, but once it had been removed we were amazed to see that the area was not in the least bit red.

Salon clients will automatically be given DNA Serum to take home as part of the treatment, and the therapist would also recommend either DNA Time Rejuvenation Cream SPF15 (for face) or DNA Body Balm SPF15 for home care. PB Contact Smart Buy: 011 888 9044

online at www.probeauty.co.za

treatment review – hair removal

65

Champagne and strawberries in the salon Wanting to ‘de-hair’ her legs, Joanna Sterkowicz opts for a Beauty Image wax.

M

y treatment took place at the delightful R.U.B Salon at Coachman’s Crossing Shopping Centre in Bryanston, Johannesburg.

Therapist Nazreen Obaray informed me that she would be using the Champagne & Strawberry Beauty Image Wax to perform my half leg wax.

“Because waxing is not a hugely pleasurable experience, Beauty Image decided to incorporate champagne and strawberry extracts into their wax. This not only has a lovely fragrance, but, very importantly, these ingredients soften and moisturise the skin, while the hair is removed. Strawberry extract in particular is full of anti-oxidants, while grape extract has a soothing effect.

“In addition, the wax looks good.

You will see when I apply the wax that it is translucent with a golden shimmer.

All this helps to give the treatment a luxurious feel,” explained Obaray.

She noted that this particular wax is suitable for very short hair, which was ideal in my case as even after 10 days of cultivating my leg hair, it had not grown very long.

As I have a tendency towards broken capillaries, I’ve not been an avid leg-waxer in the past. I expressed this concern to Obaray, who said that it wasn’t a problem as this was warm wax (as opposed to hot wax) and thus suited to sensitive skin.

“I’m going to use strip wax because legs are a large treatment area. If I were going to do a smaller area, like underarms or bikini area, then I would use hot wax, which is more gentle,”

online at www.probeauty.co.za

commented Obaray.

To commence the treatment, she applied Beauty Image PreDepilation Tonic to my calves, to disinfect the treatment area and get rid of any excess oils on the skin.

Obaray then applied the wax onto my calves, using Beauty Image’s handy roll-on applicator. The wax did indeed look as she had described and the lovely fragrance of the wax was soon permeating the treatment room.

I was interested to see that once the wax was removed with the strip, it turned strawberry pink in colour.

“The Beauty Image wax is a highquality product that cares for the skin while removing hair. So it nourishes while it depilates,” commented Obaray.

Once the wax was removed I was amazed to find that there was no

sticky residue at all on my legs. Obaray tweezed the one or two stray hairs that had escaped the wax, saying: “We don’t want to over-sensitize the skin or cause skin-lifting by going over it with wax again.”

To finish off, Obaray applied the Beauty Image Post Depilation Wipes – this has oil in it to nourish the treated skin.

Post treatment my legs looked and felt silky smooth and soft. PB Contact: Beauty Image 043 726 0585

Professional Beauty September 2015

tanning

66

Shine on

With the promise of spring comes the inevitable desire for golden, tanned skin, and the perfect opportunity for therapists to suggest indoor tanning treatments or tanning accelerator products to clients, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

S

unless tanning solutions have evolved significantly over the past 10 years, with new-generation solutions capable of producing a very natural-looking tan when applied by a skilled therapist.

So says Cliff Altree, who notes that Spraytan provides a range of sunless tanning products that produce a ‘just off the beach’ bronze look.

“Salons and spas have found that Spraytan’s sunless tanning products provide them with a strategic, competitive advantage due to our solution’s unique properties,” continues Altree. “Apart from the skill of the technician, the main difference between a successful spray-tanning business and one that is not is advertising and exposure. We pride ourselves on the amount of exposure we offer our clients, predominantly via the Spraytan website. Although the publication of regional lists of Spraytan therapists does open our client base up to attack from competitors, we know that our products stand up to this and it provides valuable marketing exposure for our clients.”

According to Altree, the biggest

cost factor in sunless tanning is the initial system cost. “Cheaper imports from the East are always very attractive due to their price, but we at Spraytan have selected tried and tested Apollo systems from the US due to their reliability, back-up service and availability of spares. Therapists should use caution when purchasing cheaper spray-tanning equipment as DHA (Dihydroxyacetone) eats away at the plastic and non-stainless metal components.”

Spraytan is the exclusive distributor of the US-manufactured Mini-Mist, Whisper Mist and Mobile Mist systems in Southern Africa.

“Superbly engineered, these Mini-Mist

Professional Beauty September 2015

Tanning Systems and Spray Applicators put perfect control into the technician’s hands,” explains Altree. “Our Mist Applicators have all stainless steel fluid parts, to atomise the solution into tiny perfect particles in a precision-controlled spray fan, which maximises DHA adhesion to the skin for an absolutely flawless end result.”

Local offering Proudly South African, The Tan Lab’s products are competitively priced and match the quality of topend international brands, says the company’s Shannon Mathie.

“Extensive research at The Tan Lab has resulted in an innovative twophase tanning system with a unique combination of DHA and Erythrulose.

This produces a tan for any skin tone that is unmatched by solutions containing DHA alone.

“These active tanning ingredients develop in synergy with one another, but at different rates on the surface of the skin. After our professional tan has been applied, the salon client can expect their tan to develop over the normal six- to eight-hour period.

Even after showering, the second R

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Treatment from head to toe

It’s a Miracle!

AN OUTSTANDING PRODUCT FOR:

Stretch Marks • Scars and Blemishes Dry Skin/Eczema • Dry Hair and Dry Scalp Cracked Heels • Uneven Skin Tone “I used to kneel down all the time when I was cleaning. The skin on my knees were black and I was so shy to wear miniskirts. I bought Lays Tissue Oil and applied it day and night for just one week.

Now I am proud of my knees and can show them to the world.”

Melta Mgona Pretoria

“Just a little note to say thank you for creating the best tissue oil that I’ve ever used. The Lay’s product has really helped in keeping my eczema skin moisturised and hydrated. It’s an outstanding product.

I use it on a daily basis and can’t live without it.”

HC, Durban

“I would like to state that I have been using your tissue oil in the spray bottle and the nonallergic lanolin & olive oil lotion for the past 3 weeks, and the results have been marvelous.

I am a woman of over 70 years and although I have a good skin, the wrinkles are inevitable, but they have been reduced to the point that I have many people asking what I have done.

It is a truly lovely product and I would certainly recommend it.”

Avryl Fuchs

Tel: +27 (0) 11 493-2007 | Fax: 011 616 0578 Website: www.lays-beauty.com | E-mail: info@lays-beauty.com

tanning

68 phase continues to gradually develop.

The full development period of the Erythrulose is 24 hours,” states Mathie.

The Tan Lab’s professional solutions come in three shades – Fair, Medium and Dark.

Tanning by towelette Clients can exfoliate, tan and moisturise all-in-one by applying the patented TanTowel Plus towelettes.

Each towelette is infused with a unique

and clear liquid formula that produces a natural sunless tan.

DHA works with the proteins and amino acids in the skin to produce a self-tan. With the same convenience as the TanTowel Classic formula, TanTowel Plus contains Erythrulose, a colour-enhancing additive for a deeper, darker sunless tan.

Advantages for salons are that these high-quality fibre towelettes are pre-measured with tanning solution and that no dyes or stains are used in the formula.

which allows your natural pigmentation process to tan as fast as nature allows.

Says David Friedman of Australian Gold: “Our exclusive Biosine Complex formula carries nutrients, moisturisers and protectants to keep your client’s skin hydrated and conditioned to allow maximum UVstimulated melanin (tanning) production.

“We believe that Australian Gold is the most recognised and widely sold lotion in the tanning industry.

The product supplies important nutrients to the skin for deep, dark colour and includes the Classic Australian Gold CocoaDreams fragrance.”

Hardcore Black is Australian Gold’s ‘ruthlessly dark bronzing lotion’ with

an ultra-dark bronzing brew of natural bronzers, skin-nourishing vitamins and essential oils for deep, lasting colour.

Australian Gold’s Forever After Lotion features a triple action, anti-wrinkle, firming and slimming complex and Hemp Seed Extract for unparalleled results and a warm, creamy vanilla fragrance.

New molecule Derma Sun from Ericson Laboratoire combines a powerful tanning accelerator and an anti-ageing, heat-activated molecule ensuring adaptable protection from the harmful rays of the sun.

The company’s researchers have extracted a new molecule from Thermus Thermophilus, a microorganism from the depths of the ocean, which lives near underwater volcanoes and is able to resist temperatures over 70°C. Integrated into all formulae of the Derma Sun range, this molecule optimises the skin’s self-defence system during exposure to the sun. PB

Beneficial machine Caribbean Tan is launching a spraytan machine which offers many benefits to clients. In addition to being characterised by low fume emission, the spray-tan machine offers therapists a wide variety of settings.

In addition, the machine is lightweight and includes an extra solution cup. A key factor is that less solution is needed per tan with the new machine, making treatments more cost-effective for the salon.

Pure gold With native Australian oils and Vitamins A and E, the Australian Gold Accelerator Lotion is an exotic blend that results in a superb tanning formula,

Caribbean Tan

Professional Beauty September 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

product focus

On the sidelines

69

Salons and spas are big users of products other than just skin and body care brands and nail products – towels being among them.

Biodegradeable rules!

In response to demand from the beauty, leisure and hospitality industry, EcoTowels has launched its Southern African operation, with offices and distribution in Cape Town.

Already established in the UK, Europe and the Middle East, Eco Towels’ biodegradable and disposable towels are widely used throughout the spa and salon industry, and comply with the South African Association of Health & Skincare Professionals’ guideline of ‘one towel per client’.

The all-natural Eco Towels products are 100% biodegradable and offer a costeffective and environmentally friendly alternative to cotton towels.

Marketing manager of Eco Towels Southern Africa, Tamsin Jansen Van Rensburg, believes the product is essential for the Southern African leisure and beauty market: “Over 30% of the beauty and leisure market in the UK are already using our product, so when you look at how

the region is enforcing one-time-use-only towels, and introducing a wide-range of green initiatives, now is a great time for us to launch EcoTowels in the market,” she says.

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www.indulgencespaproducts.co.za Tel: +27 11 705 1028 Mobile: 082 780 6500 E-mail: info@indulgencespaproducts.co.za

Robes – Spa Wraps – Soy Candles – Exfoliation Products – Room Fragrance

business tips

70

Crowning

glory

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

Absolute solution Inoar Absolut DayMoist CLR Shampoo is ideal for chemically treated hair. The synergy between the cornflour and the beet extract present in the exclusive DayMoist CLR formula protects the alpha helix responsible for maintaining keratin in hair, and increases elasticity, colour and shine.

Daring dreadlocks The natural hair care range from Jabu Stone, ‘the Godfather of dreadlocks’, includes the moulding cream, the braid spray and the ever-popular beeswax, to name a few of the products. After 23 years in business, Jabu Stone remains one of the most successful and admired individuals in the natural ethnic hair care industry.

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012 686 7067

Blonde ambition

Get ‘GO’-ing The FHI Heat Mini GO multi-styling iron features an advanced heater with auto sense control that reaches a maximum temperature of 410°F. Built with tourmaline ceramic plate technology, the Mini GO comes in a cooltouch, heat-resistant casing. It is available in Pink, Silver and Teal.

021 448 8847

Professional Beauty September 2015

Label.m’s Brightening Blonde range for healthy-looking, instantly glistening blonde hair is a three-step brightening care collection for strong, smooth and healthy-looking hair with maximum shine and no brassiness. It includes a shampoo, conditioner and styling balm.

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nails

72

Education - the key to success The South African nail industry is in a transition phase and has come a really long way over the years, but not enough importance is placed on education, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

T

he nail industry and education are things I am exceptionally passionate about and have been involved in for the past 26 years. During this time I have learnt so much as a nail professional and educator, and after all these years I am still learning from other professionals, even from those less experienced than myself. All of which goes to prove that we are most definitely never too wise or too old to learn something new, as long as we are open to it.

There are some really good, professional and well known international nail brands available for us to pick and choose from nowadays, supported by training programmes and courses.

Becoming a nail technician might seem easy – just how difficult can it be to do a manicure or apply a set of nail enhancements? Surely it’s not rocket science and anyone can do it? Well, think again!

Responsibility Being a professional manicurist or nail technician encompasses a whole lot

more than just being able to perform a hand, foot or nail service. Nail technicians have a huge responsibility towards their clients, as well as themselves, and they need to acquire many different skills.

Therefore proper and professional training and education in everything which pertains to their role as a nail professional, is important.

Basic topics for education include: customer care and communication, hygiene, sanitation and safety, nail anatomy, diseases and disorders, product chemistry, after care advice, product knowledge and selling skills.

Then there are the techniques

Professional Beauty September 2015

and skills required to perform from the most basic of services (such as manicures and pedicures), to applying various different nail coatings and nail systems, and the procedures involved to create beautiful natural looking enhancements that last and do minimal damage to the client’s natural nails.

The truth is that there is no magic formula to becoming an excellent, proficiently skilled technician overnight. A successful nail professional needs to be well equipped, well informed and kept up to date with the latest products, trends and techniques at all times.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

nails

73 Basic steps So where do you begin, even just as a manicurist especially if you have absolutely no skills, experience or qualification in the industry and the last time you painted nails it looked as if your baby sister did them? If you wanted to study to be a doctor, you wouldn’t go onto YouTube or to your doctor friend to learn how, would you?

Attending a nail technology course or training programe with a proper professional or even an accredited training provider that offers everything you need to know, is probably the most important first step.

How do you know whether the company you are choosing to do your nail technology or nail enhancement training programme is a reputable or accredited education provider?

I believe that any proper professional nail technology course or programme should not be one that promises that you will become an expert with unbelievable skills overnight and hands you a certificate after 12 hours

or less of training. It takes time to learn and become adept with all the necessary skills and knowledge you require to become a true professional and to understand what it entails to perform certain practices in the salon environment.

Although product training is very important and forms a large part of a training programe it should not only be about the products but about providing the nail professional with key elements to be able to conduct hand, foot and nail services and treatments with efficiency and professionalism.

Product knowledge and chemistry is very relevant – how the chemicals work, how to use them properly and safely, and understanding that they are designed and developed to work together with one another to achieve certain results.

Accreditation Nail training courses and programmes that offer certified and accredited training with a well-known

international training body are always the best ones to look at. They might cost you more, but they will be well worth your while.

However, remember that once you’ve completed your training course, it doesn’t mean that you know exactly what to do in any given situation and that you are ready to take on the world of nails. Now is when experience is going to be your best teacher and it has only just begun.

As a newly qualified nail tech you should follow up on the training you’ve had and use the necessary resources available to you, to assist and guide you. Ideally you should have a mentor, one that can provide you with the necessary guidance to continuously uplift your skills. To this day I still turn to many of my mentors for guidance.

One person who has guided me and provided me with so much knowledge about this industry, and who is never too busy to share information, is internationally renowned product chemist, Doug Schoon. R

nails

74

Ongoing training Nothing ever stays the same so don’t think that what you learnt and started doing even two years ago is up to date. We often get complacent and develop bad habits. As a serious nail professional it is imperative to stay up to date with ever changing trends, technology and product innovation. As science changes so does information.

Today’s customer is not only looking for efficiency but also for a superior quality professional service and someone who has a good sound knowledge with regards to their profession. Ongoing training also assists you in revisiting your skills and abilities.

I truly believe that if nail professionals were to stand together for the same goal and purpose to support and implement proper professional and formalised education in nail technology, it would uplift the standards within the South African nail industry.

Lack of interest Debbie Kayle of Sparkle Cosmetics & Academy believes there is a culture throughout the industry of a lack of interest in furthering one’s knowledge or improving one’s skills.

“In the summer months a common response from our industry is that they cannot afford to take time off

of work for training,” says Kayle.

“But then in the winter months the same people say that they don’t have enough money to be able to attend training. It really can become a vicious cycle, however it is most often just an excuse.

“What therapists and nail techs need to appreciate is that by improving their techniques and skills they will improve their business. Clients will appreciate the fact that you are trying to improve your skill and technique to better the quality of their nail treatments.

It also pleases the customer to know that their nails will be in better care, resulting in healthier nails.

“So keep growing and learning and developing your skills to perfect your treatments in this wonderful profession.”

Enough is never enough Yvette Nel has years of experience in the industry as a nail technician and educator and is now the marketing manager for LCN. Says Nel: “If you have ever had the thought, ‘I had enough training’, think again! One can never get enough training. There are so many opportunities to enrich yourself in this industry – if you fall behind it is noone’s fault but yours.

“One needs to stay updated with the latest trends and techniques –

Professional Beauty September 2015

you surely do not want your client to walk into your salon and have to tell, or even show, you what’s hip and happening in the area you are supposed to be an ‘expert’ in.

“Learning new techniques and skills is good for you – as technology reaches new avenues, suppliers can update you on the ‘easy’, correct ways of doing things.”

Nel points out that if you decide to take on a new brand, or even a new product selection within the current brand, you are using – you have to be taught the correct techniques with that particular product/s to be able to reach the optimal potential in the application, as well to ensure a lasting result.

“I suggest that nail techs adjust their ‘know it all’ mindset and learn something new regularly,” concludes Nel. PB

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 26 years.

She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty tehnology, basic salon skilss, client relations and perfeting technical skills. Email: Sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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High shine

medical aesthetics – boosters

77

Boosting the skin Applying a variety of different actives on the skin can act as a boosting agent to maintain its functioning, writes Karen Ellithorne.

I

n today’s cosmetic world of moisturisers and professional skin preparations we are inundated with a plethora of products and ingredients. The cosmetic market is flooded with very well-executed formulations in beautiful, yet stable packaging, filled with state-of-the-art active ingredients.

Each year there is a new active ingredient that is supposedly more beneficial for the skin than the previous year. Every new ingredient launched into our industry and marketplace comes with comprehensive case studies and evidence of its superiority.

This is all just marketing and does not necessarily make one ingredient better than another. As qualified aestheticians and aesthetic doctors, it is important to remember that the new ingredients constantly available are just possible new tools to enhance the treatments and home care results of our customers.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Here are some key actives: AHAs and BHAs. These two active ingredients are still very popular in most cosmetic formulations, especially skin peels and home care products that have the function of smoothing the skin.

AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are great to treat most skin types as they speed up the turnover of the skin and help to refine the complexion.

Whether you prefer glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid or lactic acid for your client’s skin condition, you will find the correct acid for them.

These acids can be used in a variety of different blends with varying concentrates and pH balances to ensure they work optimally. There is also a great deal of research that shows that using a well-formulated AHA product can also help to stimulate collagen production in the

skin and have a firming action.

BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) – salicylic acid being a prime example – are very useful when addressing patients with oily and combination skins, as they assist in dissolving the blockages in the pores.

TCA. Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) is an analogue of acetic acid, which is generally used to treat moderate photo-ageing, wrinkles, pigmentation acne scarring. It is very useful in the recovery of skin texture and general skin tone.

This ingredient is only found in professional peeling formulations.

Retinol.

Retinol is an ingredient that no medical aesthetic centre can do without. When this ingredient is applied to the skin, it dramatically R

Professional Beauty September 2015

medical aesthetics – boosters

78

Industry experts reveal their top ingredients Sonette Donker (Skin iD) – TCA I enjoy working with this ingredient as you actually experience positive changes in the skin. I am getting amazing results with TCA on acne, hyperpigmentation, sun damage and ageing skin. Besides the wonderful results, I also like the diversity this ingredient allows in terms of its levels of strength and layers. I also find TCA’s mechanism of action intriguing, whereby it coagulates the protein in the skin.

Ursula Hunt (DermaFix) – Niacinamide Also known as Vitamin B3 or nicotinamide, niacinamide helps to target the treatment of acne by acting as an anti-inflammatory.

This action assists to reduce redness, irritation and dryness, while reducing the incidence of hyperpigmentation formation.

Furthermore, Niacinamide has a keratolytic action and suppresses the amount of oil or sebum that the glands secrete, thereby reducing the formation of blackheads, whiteheads and clogged pores.

Hayley Kirton (Skincare Specialist at The Centre of Wellness) Hyaluronic Acid I love how hyaluronic acid secures moisture and promotes a plumping effect. It’s particularly important to skin appearance because about 50 percent of the body’s supply is located in the skin tissues, where the viscous, jelly-like substance helps keep it plump, soft and supple. Our ability to produce hyaluronic acid declines with age, which can lead to increased dryness, fine lines, wrinkles and sagging.

Amy Bowie (Pulse Dermatology and Laser) Retinol Retinol creams are made up of retinoids, a retinoid is a tropical form of Vitamin A. Vitamin A is the number one anti-wrinkle ingredient recommended by dermatologists. The purpose of retinol is to promote cell turnover. It eliminates the old, bad cells and produces new, plump and healthy cells.

Nothing works more effectively at eliminating the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines than retinol. It’s the best anti-aging ingredient. There is no argument to it. Piles of research prove that the vitamin A derivative can really undo wrinkles and even discoloration caused by sun damage.

Claudeen Krause (Mesoestetic) – Alpha Lipoic acid One of the most powerful antioxidants, Alpha Lipoic acid is 400 times stronger than Vitamins E and C. A very special characteristic is the fact that it is both water- and fat-soluble.

This makes it very ‘formulafriendly’ but also means it has the ability to impact and benefit the entire skin cell. It can be easily absorbed through the lipid layers of the skin to position itself as a free radical fighter in the cell membrane, but it performs equally well inside the watery cytoplasm. Alpha Lipoic acid has strong anti-inflammatory properties, which just adds to its therapeutic benefits. A good Alpha Lipoic acid cream will have the potential to visibly soften fine lines and smooth the skin, as well as render it a very special glow.

Professional Beauty September 2015

improves the support structure of the skin and creates healthier epidermal cells.

Regular use of retinol can increase the collagen production and the glycosaminoglycan content, resulting in firmer, more hydrated skin. In skincare products you will find Vitamin A in the form of retinol, retinyl palmitate and retinylaldehyde. On prescription only, it comes in the form of retinoic acid.

Vitamin C. The benefits of applying Vitamin C topically onto the skin are a subject that has been very well researched. Vitamin C is essential for collagen production in the skin and the addition of this active can dramatically decrease wrinkles, unify and even out skin tone, reduce inflammation through its anti-oxidant action and assist skin to better withstand exposure to sunlight.

Vitamin C as an active is available in a variety of forms, with Ascorbic acid and L- Ascorbic acid being the more popular choice in cosmetics.

Vitamin E. This is a popular active that is often used in anti-oxidant formulations. Vitamin E or Tocopherol has the ability to protect the cell membrane from anti-oxidative damage and prevent the destruction of collagen. This ingredient works very well in combination with Vitamin C.

Niacinamide .

This ingredient is one that is top of the list as a great skincare ingredient, being the active part of Vitamin B3. When used on the epidermis, Niacinamide helps to assist in maintaining the hydro-lipidic balance of the skin, and therefore prevents water loss. It is also often used in products that address hyperpigmentation and acne.

Resveratrol.

This is a potent ingredient that we are currently seeing in many skincare formulations. It is found mostly in grapes, nuts, fruits and red wine. The ingredient acts as an anti-oxidant, and, when applied topically, it can protect the skin from sun damage and stimulate collagen synthesis.

This ingredient is very stable and well worth trying out.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

medical aesthetics – boosters

79

Curcuminoid.

This ingredient is derived from the spice turmeric, which is a major part of curry powder. It has powerful anti-inflammatory properties and is capable of destroying cancer cells.

Curcuminoid may also be found in products for hyperpigmentation, as it has the ability to suppress the production of melanin.

In general this is a great anti-aging ingredient due to its multiple benefits of addressing inflammation, irritation and sun damage in the epidermis.

Alpha Lipoic acid.

This is an enzyme that acts as an antioxidant when applied onto the skin. An anti-oxidant that is both water- and fat-soluble, it is claimed to have the ability to regenerate other anti-oxidants, namely Vitamins C and E. It is also believed to have an anti-inflammatory effect.

Hyaluronic acid.

Hyaluronic acid is a natural structural component of the dermis and is responsible for the plumpness and youthfulness of the skin. This ingredient has the capacity to moisturise the skin, whilst assisting in repairing the skin’s barrier function. Hyaluronic acid also has antioxidant properties and reduces inflammation.

Peptides.

Our skin’s support structure is made up mostly of collagen, a protein that is made up of long chains of amino acids strung together, like chains of linked building blocks. When the chains are broken down, short segments of three to five amino acids are formed, which are called peptides. These are, therefore, the building blocks of the skin and are very popular as main active ingredients in formulations that are used to treat ageing skin.

Growth factors.

Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) can be found in plasma, sweat, urine, saliva and semen. Growth factors have been used very successfully in the treatment of burns. The skin is capable of regenerating, healing and growing cells.

Growth factors play an integral role in the skin’s natural ability to repair damage and are key anti-aging actives in skin rejuvenation.PB With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years. Email: karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

Professional Beauty September 2015

treatment review – boosting facial

81

A vitalising facial Intent on giving her skin a well-needed boost, Heleen Wiese experiences the DermaFix ‘A’ Boost facial with Vitamin A Propionate.

A

ccording to D e r m a F i x educator, Rozlyn Williams, the MD Prescriptives Vitamin A Propionate in the DermaFix range of skincare products is the latest innovation in facial treatments and peeling.

Said Willliams: “Vitamin A Propionate is an effective alternative to the various retinoid forms available. Most retinoids are poorly tolerated on the skin and often associated with retinoid dermatitis, while our Vitamin A Propionate protects the integrity of the skin and encourages healthy skin cell growth.

“Regular use of Vitamin A Propionate alleviates Skin after Vitamin A Propionate application skin wrinkling and lightens hyperpigmentation and scar tissue. Intrinsic ageing is improved Williams. “This is a skin boost and may within a year of use.” tingle on application. This sensation To commence the treatment may be eased off with use of a handWilliams performed a double cleanse held fan. on my face with MD Prescriptives “Vitamin A Propionate provides Mandelic Cleanser. This is a foaming your skin with a healthy dose of cleanser that deeply, yet gently, Vitamin A to revitalise it and improve cleanses the skin. the appearance of wrinkles and dark On analysis of my skin, Williams spots. This formula is ideal for all skin noted that it had a red undertone. At types and promotes skin firmness and this point I expressed my main skin elasticity. It will result in a brighter concerns, namely oiliness, large pore complexion over time. The end result size and deep lines. is the rapid regeneration and the Williams then applied Mandelic desired boost is achieved.”

Toner, with a light, ‘fluffing’ action to Next Williams applied Vitamin facilitate circulation on the surface of Therapy Masque, a nourishing mask the skin. containing avocado oil and a multiThe next stage of the treatment vitamin complex. This thick and creamy was the DermaPolish Enzymatic mask felt lovely and comforting and Exfoliation, incorporating steam to stayed on for 15 minutes. loosen redundant skin cells.

When the mask was removed, “I’m now going to apply the Vitamin Williams applied Vitamin C Serum, A Propionate in three layers, with five an excellent anti-inflammatory. Next minutes gap between each layer,” said came the application of PowerDerm,

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a moisturiser formulated with Plant Stem Cells. The treatment ended with the application of the DermaShield SPF45 high protection UVA/UVB sunscreen.

Post-treatment I was amazed to find that my skin wasn’t red at all, instead it looked healthy and radiant.

For homecare, Williams prescribed Mandelic Cleanser, DermaPolish, Vitamin C Serum, PowerDerm and DermaShield SPF45.

“I would recommend that you incorporate the Vitamin A Propionate into your evening routine for rapid skin regeneration, while MD Prescriptives DNA Protection with ‘Telosense’ is further recommended to protect the DNA telomere against environmental stress and damage,” concluded Williams. PB Contact: Dermafix 0861 28 23 23

Professional Beauty September 2015

products

82

In the market Our round-up of newly launched products.

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Powerful trilogy

Faultless application

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An innovation from Environ – the Intensive Avance DFP 312™ Cream – combines a scientific formulation of three peptide complexes, namely Matrixyl 3000, Trylagen and Matrixyl Synthé 6. This multi-functional moisturiser leaves the skin hydrated and looking smoother and firmer.

Dr Dermal Texture Correction Pads are used post-cleansing in the evening and are simply wiped gently over the face. The hyaluronic acid-infused pads also contain anti-oxidants as well as the optimal strength and pH of glycolic acid. They result in a refined skin with improved texture as well enhanced rejuvenation.

011 262 0264

Pure gold Super serum

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The Hyaluronhy+ Performance Serum from Dr. med. Christine Schrammek has a multiple hyaluronic effect which aids moisture and regeneration. The silky texture blends with the skin, leaving it highly moisturised and preventing the breakdown of hyaluronic acid and collagen.

Wrinkles appear filled, while the skin looks firm and full.

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079 106 2863

The anti-ageing benefits of gold were renowned even in the time of Cleopatra.

The Black Pearl 24k Gold Cleopatra Mask is infused with gold, which energises the skin, reduces the appearance of rosacea, wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, and blemishes, and rebuilds collagen. It is suitable for all skin types.

082 560 0262

+00 49 201 68952

Professional Beauty September 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za

products

83

RégimA Zone has introduced four multifunctional day products – Sensorial Daily Protector (all skins); Daily Radiant Boost (combination skins); Daily Ultra Defence (dry/dehydrated skins); and Daily Intelligent Sebum-Solver (problem skins). All products contain a Beta-Endorphin Stimulator, advanced sun protection and an antioxidant.

011 615 2869

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Three-way action

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‘Zone’-ed out

Priori’s Triple Action Protector (TAP) SPF 50 has been clinically proven to reduce the effects of sun damage associated with skin cancer and non-melanoma skin cancer. TAP 50’s skin protection technology makes this product an essential daily step for all skin types.

011 486 4904

BLAVA final option 2.pdf 2 3/13/2015 6:37:10 AM

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Email Phone

info@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za 011 784 0376 www.spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

saahsp

84

Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

First SAAHSP clinic with designated members Cosmoderm Aesthetics & Laser Clinic in Bloemfontein has become the first SAAHSP clinic with officially designated members.

T

his means that all Cosmoderm staff members need to partake in CPD (Continuing Professional Development) programmes through SAAHSP, which enables them not only to continuously upskill themselves, but also provides the salon with a higher standard of professionalism and service.

“At Cosmoderm we feel it is of utmost importance to meet the

specific requirements and standards according to SAAHSP,” says owner Helani Meyer. “This allows us to benchmark ourselves against industry standards and requirements. If all salons and clinics followed suit, I believe we could improve the standard of our industry, and perhaps help create an alliance with the medical industry.

“Having internationally qualified

Cornerstones to successful business practices SAAHSP provides advice on how salons can maintain a standard of excellence and become a salon of choice.

M

ake sure you communicate your services and price list correctly, and that what you have to offer is professional. A website enables you to let people know what your business is about and what you have to offer. If you invest in marketing and branding, this usually assures the consumer that you take your business seriously and that it is run professionally.

Verify the quality of your services and expertise of professionals – provide enough answers. Make sure you only use and retail professional products and that your therapists’ qualifications are displayed. The

employees need to go for regular training and attend congresses and workshops in order to provide the best service to your clients.

Your salon should be properly stocked with professional brands on display in the reception area, which should be open and welcoming.

First impressions count – if the signage outside is not appealing and professional-looking, potential clients will just walk away.

Your salon or spa should also be properly equipped with the necessary beauty equipment and the facilities cleanly maintained and hygienic.

Sanitation and sterilisation procedures

Professional Beauty September 2015

Natasha du Plessis, Rosi Chaka, Jasmine Stockton, Connie Hildebrand, Maryke Malan, Chantelle Spamer, Doret Stark, Lisette du Plessis and Jean-Marie van den Berg.

therapists in our clinic also definitely sets us apart from other clinics, as it ensures therapy of a superior standard.”

need to be adhered to at all times.

Therapists must be impeccably groomed and dressed.

The cost of treatments can sometimes steer your clients away, especially if you over- or under-charge – check what your competitors are charging and the affordability of the people living in your area of business.

SAAHSP is currently offering salon membership at the following reduced rates: Normal membership with one individual – R1030 – now R750.

A R750 salon and one person membership includes: Salon inspection; Salon recognition certificate; Decal sticker; 1 membership card; Membership certificate (can apply for designation).

Other members working at the salon – normal rate R530, now only R265. This includes membership card and membership certificate (can apply for designation). The SAAHSP badge can be purchased for R74.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

INSTANT RESULTS!

Before

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Courses to increase knowledge & skills & set you apart in the industry Advanced Skin course

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Micro Needling Course

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Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Brenda Mzila Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: classifieds@probeauty.co.za

EDUCATION & TRAINING

EDUCATION & TRAINING

face to face beauty & make-up design school HEAD OFFICE www.facetoface.co.za • info@facetoface.co.za 011726 8144 / 8166 / 2644 Facebook @ FACETOFACESAHEADOFFICEOFFICIALPAGE Twitter @ FacetoFace_SA

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TRAINING & DISTRIBUTION Telephone: 051 436 0494 • Mobile: 076 073 5137 info@cherryinkgroup.co.za • www.cherryinkgroup.co.za

The Beauty Industry needs you!

Permanent Cosmetics Association of South Africa info@pcasa.org.za www.pcasa.org.za

Professional Beauty September 2015

Recruit your staff with Professional Beauty To find out more call 011 781-5970

online at www.probeauty.co.za

classifieds

87 EDUCATION & TRAINING

PRODUCTS & SERVICES THE NATURAL LIFTING EFFECT

Lift 6速 The Lift 6 produces a dynamic yet pleasant stretching of the tissue.

Each movement of its mobile flaps causes an intense tridimensional (vertical, tangetial and transversal) cutaneous stimulation.

A unique and patented process that produces a real, natural lifting effect. 速

For more info call Pam on 082 460 5028

RECRUITMENT DISTRIBUTORS OF: www.tanningproducts.co.za 082 600 8093 011 803 2002

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Tel: 083 321 9038

Queen New York Beauty

Broad-acres Shopping Centre, Shop 22 Cedar Rd, Broadacres, Fourways Tel: 011 051 9857 | Tel: 011 467 3687 Email: broadacres@qny.co.za

Get connected!

Be inspired!

Network your business!

The latest news and information about Professional Beauty is only a click away!

Gem Care Manufactures, Imports & Supplies a wide range of products & equipment to the Beauty and Medical Industry.

127 Old North Coast Road, Victoria Park, Unit 108 Tel: 031 811 9601/ 811 9606 Email: gemport@iafrica.com Web: www.gem-care.co.za

THIS VALUABLE SPACE IS AVAILABLE for advertising your products and services.

To find out more call BRENDA MZILA on 011 781-5970

BEAUTY ONLINE: Sign up via www.probeauty.co.za

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Professional Beauty September 2015

classifieds

88 HAIR

PRODUCTS & SERVICES

HOT HAIR PIECES®

www.hothairpieces.com MANUFACTURERS OF ALL TYPES OF HAIR BRAIDS & HAIR EXTENSIONS TEL: 031 465 2128 CELL: 084 588 88800 • BBM 2AFC68A0

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Hot Hair Pieces is your hair salons best kept secret. We have more than 21 years of experience in the making of hair extensions.

We supply country wide and export as well. Contact us for your next order. We look forward to hearing from you soon.

MEDICAL AESTHETICS

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FEATURE YOUR PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

info@larashe.co.za Contact - Ashley: 084 708 5701 www.larashe.co.za Place Orders - 078084 498708 7765 Contact - Ashley: 5701 Call Ashley Munetsi: 078 498 7765 Email -Orders info@larashe.co.za Place - 078 498 7765

Lasers and Devices for Medical and Aesthetic Applications

Email - info@larashe.co.za La_Rashe La Rashe La_Rashe La Rashe

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Contact - Ashley: 084 708 5701 Place Orders - 078 498 7765 Email - info@larashe.co.za

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Regulars: Industry news, Spa news, Business tips, Medical Aesthetics, Beauty product focus, Latest products, Treatment reviews, Nail updates, Spa and Salon reviews.

Features: Lasers & IPLs, Body Shaping, Male grooming, Permanent Make up, Anti-Ageing, Software, Hair removal, Pigmentation, Show previews, Sun protection, Slimming wraps, Microneedling, Fragrances and candles, Ingredients... and more.

Professional Beauty September 2015

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