September 2016
www.probeauty.co.za
Campaign against wrinkles Anti-ageing skincare
Marketing the unique you Differentiation strategies
Getting a grip Revenue management
ALL-STARS Building the dream team
Perfect match Spa mentorship goes global
46
In this issue... Regulars
69 Nails
7 Industry news
37 Building the dream team
76 Mantaining and retaining staff
Local and international news
84 Product news
All the latest launches
69 Crowning glory
What’s hot and happening in the hair industry
88 SAAHSP The latest news from SAAHSP
41 The differentiation strategy
Marketing your business’ unique features
How to keep staff happy
Features 52 That sun-kissed glow
Sunless tanning treatment review
Spa Focus
54 In pursuit of youth(ful) skin
46 Aiming for the pinnacle
62 ‘Hairy’ expressions
Business 18 Ask the Experts
Choosing the right personality types for your business
Achieving world class spa standards
50 Spa on your doorstep Spotlight on Wellness Mobile Hideaway
All your questions answered
Anti-ageing skincare
Hair removal using machines
71 Round-the-clock action
24-Hour creams
23 Insider
Tracking the industry with stats
24 Wellness mentoring programme inspires
Global Mentorship Programme
Medical Aesthetics 81 Filler facts
Choosing the right dermal filler for your practice
29 Making every cent count
How to get through tough economic times
32 Staying on top of your game
Revenue management
34 The art of employee engagement
Igniting passion in your staff
24
29
Welcome
H
ere it is – Professional Beauty’s annual ‘bumper edition’ – our showcase issue that coincides with the industry’s biggest event, the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, which traditionally runs at the end of August at the Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand. While we (as per usual) include loads of information in terms of industry news, beauty and skincare products and medical aesthetics trends, because Professional Beauty is positioned as a business magazine, you will find a wealth of articles that offer invaluable advice on the effective running of a salon or spa business. One such article deals with revenue management, which is an important analytical tool to identify where your business may be making, or losing, money. Our other business articles focus on how to make every cent count in these tough economic times; the art of employee engagement to ensure optimum performance; building the dream team; how to create a marketing strategy based on the unique qualities of your business; and how spas can achieve world class standards. To that end, we also include a report on a very important initiative, namely the Global Mentorship Programme (GMP), where top spa directors are paired up with promising spa managers for mentoring purposes. Feedback from the South African mentees indicates that this has been a highly effective exercise and that they have already been able to successfully implement some of the useful strategies suggested by their mentors. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
Publisher Mark Moloney
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Managing Director Yolanda Knott
083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za
mark@probeauty.co.za
Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970
phil@probeauty.co.za
Editor Joanna Sterkowicz
011 781 5970
joanna@probeauty.co.za
Art Director Alois Sajanga
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alois@fmexpo.org
September 2016
Subscribe 9 issues for R475 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970
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Campaign against wrinkles Anti-ageing skincare
Marketing the unique you Differentiation strategies
Getting a grip Revenue management
ALL-STARS Building the dream team
Perfect match
On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com
Spa mentorship goes global
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Professional Beauty September 2016
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industry news
7
News All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.
Matis turns 80
O
n 15 August, Twincare International held an event at its Johannesburg’s offices to mark the 80th birthday of premium French skincare brand, Matis. The event, which was attended by dozens of Matis stockists, coincided with the launch of a brand new Matis salon treatment – Densi-Age Expert – and the imminent release of two new retail products. Said Lisa Charlton, Twincare’s national education manager for Matis: “We are super-excited about Matis reaching this amazing milestone. The brand has had such a phenomenal journey over the decades and is now found in 70 countries and in 7,000 salons and points of sale around the world. This journey would not have been possible without you, the Matis stockists, so we extend our sincere thanks to you all for your support.”
Lisa Charlton, Kirsty Hendry and Gabriella Gillespie
Charlton noted that the DensiAge Expert Treatment is designed to soften all the signs of ageing on the face. “Although it is targeted at women aged 50 and over, it is also suitable for women in their 40s. “This treatment makes use of all Matis protocols and incorporates mixology – a technology that involves the mixing of two textures that result in a third texture. The facial comprises three stages – Phas’ Age, ElastaGen; and the fusion of these two stages. Like all new Matis treatments and products, Densi-Age Expert Treatment has been clinically tested
Claassens joins Hitech
under the auspices of a dermatologist and has achieved excellent results.” She went on to introduce the two new Matis retail products, Comfort Cleansing Oil (available in September) and OleaScience Oil Serum, which arrives in South Africa in October.
News in pictures
Marlet Claassens has been appointed as aesthetic product specialist at Hitech Lasers. Claassens is a TUT-qualified somatologist, who she started her career in the aesthetic industry in 2003 as salon supervisor at an aesthetic clinic in London, where she worked until 2012. “Marlet has a great understanding of the skin and is – with her international experience – well qualified to give expert advice to those who want to invest in aesthetic equipment,” says Hitech’s Naomi Olivier.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Helena van der Vyver (left) and Shantelle Booysen were the two speakers at the recent Professional Beauty Network Breakfast held at The River Club in Cape Town. Over 30 delegates attended the event and topics covered were how to interpret clients’ body language and the importance of employing life skills.
Professional Beauty September 2016
industry news
10
Harrod takes over SalonCare
News in brief ■ Milk Solutions secures EU certification: Following a period of rigorous testing and compliance procedures, South African mani/ pedi range, Milk Solutions, has been granted EU certification and will now export to the region.
A
manda Harrod is the new sole owner of SalonCare, an established, international professional skincare brand. “This April SalonCare celebrated its 21st birthday,” says Harrod. “The company currently has 11 distribution centres. We host training workshops and are the skincare house that many colleges, nationally and internationally, utilise in their training. “Our aim is to educate therapists and companies as much as possible, assist in growing therapists’ businesses and to keep our range cost-effective, user friendly and highly effective,” says Harrod. The SalonCare team comprises Natasha Clements (GM), Anita PIllay (client liaison officer) and team members, Danielle Campbell, Nincy Davids and Noori Alexander. At the time of going to print, the SalonCare website was being updated with the new company profile.
■ New appointment at Sorbet Salons UK:
Sorbet Salons has appointed Lindsay Walmsley as its UK general manager. Walmsley joins the South African beauty salon franchise at an exciting time, with two stores in the UK already (based in London) and a further two in the pipeline. ■ L’Oréal opens local R&I Centre: Cosmetics giant L’Oréal has inaugurated its new Research & Innovation (R&I) Centre in Johannesburg to study African hair and skin specificities, as well as the beauty routines and expectations of sub-Saharan consumers. ■ Skin quality a top priority: Fifty-six-percent of women rank skin quality as the number-one beauty priority and as equally important as body shape and figure, according to new research by Allergan in its The Changing Faces of Beauty: A Global Report 2016.
New moves for Van der Poll
■ New wellness initiative: The GWI (Global Wellness Institute) is launching a new Initiative, Wellness Architecture, designed to bring together leaders to raise awareness of how architecture and our surroundings impact humans. For more information log on to http://www.globalwellnessinstitute. org/wellness-architecture-initiative.
Lisa van der Poll has been appointed as national sales manager for the Spa & Salon Solutions brand. “I have been in the industry for the past 22 years and have accumulated a wealth of knowledge about beauty therapy, which I’m delighted to bring to Spa & Salon Solutions. The beauty industry is an important part of my life,” she says.
Professional Beauty September 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
LOOKING FOR TRAINERS & AGENTS COUNTRYWIDE.
industry news
15
A ‘legendary’ lash conference
O
ver 60 delegates attended the first ever LashMaster Legends Conference in Cape Town at the end of July. The event was hosted and coordinated by Luscious Lashes International. Says the company’s Cliff Altree: “The conference was a huge success. We are still receiving messages from delegates telling us how much they learned and that it has inspired them to keep learning and improving their skill. “This was the biggest lash conference to be held in the whole of the Southern hemisphere. It seems that the delegates are supermotivated following the conference. The international speakers who presented at the conference are not only highly qualified and experienced, but also very passionate about their work and this rubbed off on the delegates in a big way.”
International s p e a k e r s included: Eva Z a c h a r i a s (Saskatoon , Canada) – CEO and founder of MYLashBook; F ra n ce s c a Nappi (Italy) – Accademia Angel Lash & Brow Treiner International; Agne Vaiciute (Italy) – Lash & Blade Academy; Asa Holmberg (Stockholm, Sweden) – Perfect Eyes; Dorina Bivol (Toulouse, France) – co-founder of Le Beautyroom by BivoLASH; and Michelle Ryan (UK) – Master Lash Artist and Flirties head trainer.
Patricia Clarke launches new range Patricia Clarke, a brand known for its versatile, detoxifying contouring body wrap techniques, has launched the new Delfin Heat Maximising Neoprene range of garments, consisting of shorts, Capri knee pants, abdominal binder and arm bands. Says Patricia Clarke’s Christelle Newsum: “This collection, which can be used with the Patricia Clarke Contouring Gel, is comprised of a thin layer of neoprene embedded with bio ceramic material – a combination of more than 20 types of ceramics. “Bio-ceramics reflect thermal waves (heat) generated by the human body, which are called far infra rays (FIR). Additionally, bio ceramic material also generates FIR, increasing the heat waves penetrating one’s body. This absorbs any perspiration loss and your body's heat through the far-infrared thermal energy. Consequently, your circulation is improved and the body produces more heat to compensate for the original heat loss, resulting in the burning of fat.” Newsum points out that the additional benefits of these garments include helping to reduce water and toxins in the body, diminishing joint discomfort and keeping the muscles warm.
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Co-founder of Luscious Lashes International, Lesley Altree (second from left in top picture), herself a Lash Master, also presented at the conference.
News in pictures
South African cosmeceutical skincare brand, DermaFix, celebrated its 10th birthday on 19 July at Cafê Hemmingway’s in Kyalami, Johannesburg. Two new products, InTensorLift and Pumpkin Peptide Masque, were launched at the event. DermaFix MD, Ursula Hunt, is pictured above (centre) with stockists.
Professional Beauty September 2016
industry news
16
Bare turns one
T
he Foreshore (Cape Town) branch of Bare Laser Hair Removal Specialists celebrated its first birthday on 18 August. Since opening last year, Bare has moved to the Redefine building, specifically to be situated in the city centre and the busy end of Cape Town. Say’s Bare’s Marnie Greene: “This location is right where our clients need us to be. Because our treatments are quick, clients can even pop in during their lunchtimes.” Greene notes that a feature unique to all Bare branches (the others are at Century City and Claremont), is that prospective first time clients are offered a free consultation. “Clients want to feel the laser before they commit to a paid-for session,” continues Greene. “Ninetynine-percent of these first-timers will book further sessions. It’s interesting
to note that 15% of our clientele is male – hair removal is a big issue for men who care about their grooming. At Bare we use German Class 4 Diode lasers.”
Magic of the ‘Wink’ Tech of
with the inventor of the WinkMagic machine over the past 13 years. “The WinkMagic tool will be adapted for our market and clientele, based on localised research and innovation. Tech Ideas Emporium is representing the African market.”
Ideas Emporium is working on the prototype a machine – the WinkMagic – that applies instant, individual eyelashes within the space of 10 minutes. Says the company’s executive director, Laverne Dimitrov: “I am a technology scout in the science and engineering sector and have been conducting trade
Imbalie’s ‘Social Makeover’ candidates have been offered employment at Imbalie stores in the Western Cape. In addition, we’ve selected two candidates who will have entrepreneurial training to enable them to open a nail bar in the Langa informal settlement.” Imbalie Training Academy trained the women in manicures, pedicures, gel and acrylic. The students were also taught about hygiene, professional conduct, excellence in client care, verbal and non-verbal communication skills, how to retain clients and the importance of first impressions. Old Mutual provided training on wealth creation and how to budget and save.
South African franchise group, Imbalie Beauty, is involved in a social development project that is being run in Cape Town’s Mitchell’s Plain. Says Lisa Leibov, principal of the Imbalie Training Academy: “Twenty ladies aged between 18 and 25 from previously disadvantaged backgrounds were selected to undergo six to eight weeks of Imbalie training courses. The Western Cape government paid a stipend to these ladies. “This initiative, which we have called ‘the Social Makeover Project’, was the brainchild of social worker, Farhana Parker, who is active in the Mitchell’s Plain area. The successful
Professional Beauty September 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
18
Ask the experts Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
What are the main points to cover when training my manager in the salon’s finances?
I
n broad terms, the aim of any business is to create profit or a return on investment. Beauty salons are no different. To create a sustainable profit we need to look at two main drivers that influence how well we are able to run a business: how can we increase turnover, and how can we control expenses? Managing the company’s finances is critical for salon managers. They must look closely at which factors influence revenue creation (turnover) and which factors negatively impact expenses.
There are five key areas to focus on:
1
Turnover: salon managers need to understand how to grow top-line turnover by considering the following: • Exceptional service that will drive customer loyalty not just satisfaction; • Effective marketing and promotional campaigns; • Quality recruitment, training and placement of staff; • Managing an effective staff roster is crucial in optimising guest bookings.
2
Cost of sale: COS refers to what the stock/inventory costs are when making the sale or offering a service. Often it is the single biggest expense in a salon. Managers must understand how to successfully order the correct stock lines and limit stock wastage or
abuse. Over-stocked items that do not sell will tie up cash flow in the business. However, not having adequate retail or professional stock can be detrimental to the salon’s turnover.
3
Operational expenses: these can be divided into two categories, fixed and variable costs. Fixed costs cannot be changed and include rental, insurance and basic salaries. Salon managers will need to scrutinise variable expenses, such as telephone, refreshments and consumables, which they can be more in control of on a monthly basis.
4
Staff costs: well trained and skilled staff are essential in running a prosperous business. The salon manager’s role from a financial perspective is to ensure that staff rostering is optimally utilised, in order for each individual therapist to be as productive as possible.
Brent Fuhr is the chief operations officer (COO) of the Sorbet Group. He obtained his B.Comm Entrepreneurship degree in 2007 from UJ and obtained a BA Honours in brand leadership from Vega in 2008. Fuhr joined the Sorbet Group in 2009 and has helped the business grow to 160+ salons to date, including two in London.
5
Operational profit: salon managers who are able to increase turnover and effectively manage variable expenses will create more sustainable operational profit.PB
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS?
Professional Beauty September 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
19 What are ‘inbound marketing strategies’ and how can I use them to market my salon?
I
nbound marketing is the combination of strategies involving technology, marketing and the internet. They are content-driven strategies – meaning that content (blog, article, posts, images and video) forms the basis of any inbound strategy. Without content you cannot create an inbound marketing success. The concept behind inbound strategies is that they are the exact opposite of traditional, interruptive marketing strategies. Think of how pop-ups interrupt you from visiting your chosen website, or how TV commercials interrupt your viewing pleasure. Inbound strategies do not interrupt at all. The content created should be actively sought out by your target audience, as is the case when searching Google. Therefore the only goal of your content is to add value to the reader. Such content should not be solely focused on your product. You simply want to connect a potential customer to your brand. The bonus is that not only has your content educated, created a giggle or inspired, it has also done so on the platform of the user’s choice. Inbound marketing tip: spread your content throughout the digital space – Facebook, Twitter, blogs, YouTube, Instagram. You want to reach potential customers where they are searching, when they are searching. However, there is no point in pushing all this content without a
plan. The complete process of inbound marketing covers: • Attraction • Conversion • Closing • Creating ambassadors. Attraction is the process of content creation. So, customers are on your site? Now what? Convert of course! Convert means to engage, by either having visitors sign up for a newsletter, download a white paper after creating a profile, or simply allowing you to contact them in the future. You must encourage them to complete a form, follow a callto-action, or similar. The key is to get details for sales in the future.
Close – this is the process of converting visitors into customers. We know that you have a qualified lead that found you via content; they engaged and gave you permission to market to them so give them more of the same. Make the effort worthwhile with a sales offer. Please note: this does not mean a barrage of e-mail and product specials. Think sending relevant blogs and videos that keep customers engaged, with offers included in the copy. Creating ambassadors is a specific category I added for salons or clinics. Once a customer does purchase your offer, you MUST absolutely blow them away with your product or service. Give them a reason to tell all their friends about the decision they made to visit you. You have now turned your inbound marketing strategy into a referral network. PB Colin Campbell is the owner of the Instar Group, a digital and social media agency. He serves as an advisor to numerous companies and clients within the plastic surgery and aesthetic market. He has travelled the globe lecturing on topics that involve marketing in the digital space.
Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty September 2016
business trends
23
Insider Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in July 2016.
Insider Spa
Treatment business at South African spas did not exactly boom during July, as only 50% of you reported an increase as compared to the same time last year. Of those spas that posted a decrease in treatment business, one hotel spa was currently under renovations and operating out of three hotel rooms, thus greatly reducing its number of treatment beds, while other spas were short of therapists. Conversely, one spa reported July as being the busiest month in 2016, while another spa found, to its surprise, that these winter months were much busier than previous years. Warmer weather was said to play an important role in encouraging people to venture out and visit spas. Half of you reported a decrease in retail sales though. The few spas that did experience an increase in retail business noted that their therapists were more confident after training on customer service. Another spa reported that its average spend per guest in July was higher and therefore they bought more retail. In terms of taking on new staff, AVERAGE most of the spas polled have TREATMENT taken on new staff at some ROOM point in 2016. OCCUPANCY Popular retail items in July were lip repair balms, bath products, body butter and homeopathic aromatherapy oils.
50%
Insider Salon
Treatment business at salons continues to be affected adversely by a AVERAGE challenging economy as only 32% TREATMENT of you reported an increase as ROOM compared to the same time last OCCUPANCY year. Some salons that reported an increase have been running specials at reduced rates. Retail sales were dismal during July as clients are still cutting back on sales. One salon noted that, while its clientele fall into the ‘fairly wealthy’ bracket, they have been affected by hikes in school fees and are reducing their salon spend. Unlike spas, the overwhelming majority of salons polled have not taken on a new staff member for at least a year. PB
61%
The month in numbers
50
% BETTER
2
% SAME
48 % WORSE HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JULY 2016 COMPARE WITH JULY 2015?
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HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JULY 2016 COMPARE WITH JULY 2015?
33
% BETTER
17
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JULY 2016 COMPARE WITH JULY 2015?
32
% BETTER
35
% SAME
% SAME
50
33 % WORSE
% WORSE
10
% BETTER
3
% SAME
87
% WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JULY 2016 COMPARE WITH JULY 2015?
Professional Beauty September 2016
business tips
24
Wellness mentoring programme inspires Various South African spa owners and managers were matched up in January as part of the local roll-out of the Global Mentorship Programme, writes Helena Raats.
T
he Global Mentorship Pilot Programme (GMP) was introduced in 2014 by a committee of spa professionals at the Global Spa and Wellness Summit in Marrakesh in Morocco. According to Emmy Stoltz, the GMP regional supervisor for Africa, Mauritius and Seychelles, the exciting part was that the programme was the first-ever international programme aimed at seasoned spa directors giving their time and sharing expertise as mentors to inspire spa members with potential.
The GMP is based on the International Spa Association’s list of core competencies for spa management professionals. A dedicated website was launched in May 2015 to gain information on possible participants, all of whom registered on the website voluntarily. MentorshipEvidence.com gathers useful information from trusted sources, for spa, hospitality and beauty professionals. The GMP pilot programme, originally sponsored by Biologique Recherche, was such a success that 2016 has 40 mentors and 80 mentees in total taking part. The first session ran from January to June, and the second will run from July to December, with mentors and mentees connecting once a month via the telephone, video platforms, or even face-to-face. A Mentors and Mentees Handbook has been created, which clearly defines the code of conduct that enables an ethical and efficient
Professional Beauty September 2016
mentorship and resources to help the mentees and mentors grow personally and professionally. A social network platform has been initiated to gather like-minded spa directors and managers around the world, so they can share online resources, best practices and pearls of wisdom (see Facebook, LinkedIn, Twitter and YouTube).
Matching strengths to weaknesses “The future of our spa industry depends on the current spa managers and we need to grow and strengthen their abilities to ensure a stronger industry,” says Stoltz. She explains that the spa industry globally shows impressive growth statistics, but quotes the 2014 ISPA State of the Industry Survey, which showed that 24% of respondents stated that staff skills and recruitment are their main challenge. “These revealing statistics tell a story which certainly catalysed
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
25
GMP Background
Emmy Stoltz
Taryn Lilley
the formation of the GMP,” she says. “We want to help high-potential spa managers become real spa leaders.” The local group, supervised by Stoltz, saw spa owners and directors from South Africa to Tunisia paired up, ensuring a mixed bag of skills and experience that the participants could draw from. Feedback from the first six-month programme is that the spa professionals not only gained some deeper insights into the day-today running of the businesses they manage, but also got to exchange ideas. Five mentors have been paired with mentees for the next leg of the programme.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Nicolette Henderson
John Lambrou from the Spas of Distinction Group, a collection of fivestar day spas in South Africa, says that he heard about the GMP in Marrakesh, applied and was paired as a mentor this year. “In my experience the better the mentees prepare before each session, the more they will benefit from the programme.” He agrees that ideally the benefits of the GMP should go both ways. “There is a need for more innovative spa managers to lift the industry standard,” he explains. “Offshore pairings can go a long way in addressing that issue and allowing for some innovation in our industry.” The feedback from the mentees
The GMP is one of three programmes within the Global Career Development Initiative launched by the Global Wellness Institute. The GMP is accompanied by the Global Careership Programme, led by CG Funk, former vice-president of industry relations and product development of Massage Envy, and the Global Internship Programme led by Leslie Lyon, president, Spas2b Inc.
The value of the global spa industry is estimated at $94bn, with nearly 105 600 spas around the world employing 1.9 million people, according to the 2013 Global Spa and Wellness Economy Monitor prepared for the Global Wellness Summit by SRII International. www.globalwellnesssummit.com
R
Professional Beauty September 2016
business tips
26
has been overwhelmingly positive (each mentee has to complete a report, called a Précis, after their session concludes). “We try to make these [Précis] as tangible as possible and have had wonderful feedback where managers have grown their retail sales by 70% because of the programme and their connection with their mentor,” says Stoltz. “We then take all the Précis from across the world and combine them in a booklet, Mentorship Reflections, which clearly shows that this programme truly does work.”
When opportunity knocks Nicolette Henderson is the owner of Tranquillity Health and Beauty Spa in Westville, Durban, and signed up as a mentee. “I have an ambitious vision for my spa, but know that without professional help I won’t get very far,” she says. “I leapt at the opportunity to be part of the programme.” Henderson explains that her mentor, Izak du Bruyn from Skin Renewal Medical Spa, was helpful and the experience incredibly enlightening. As a result, both her business management skills and morale have improved over the last six months. “The GMP programme challenged my thinking and improved my ideas,”
Professional Beauty September 2016
she says. “My retail sales increased so drastically that one product house asked my spa to be the retail head in the province! “With the restructuring of my website due to advice given by my mentor, traffic to the site increased and my bounce rate decreased substantially,” she enthuses. Cape Grace Hotel spa manager Taryn Lilley also participated in the GMP and was teamed up with Dr Chase Webber, area director of Constance Hotels and Resorts. Lilley’s experience was positive and she believes that all spa managers need to step out of their comfort zones and get involved in the GMP to uplift the industry in general. “I had an amazing experience with this programme,” she explains. “Not only was I able to take valuable information and techniques into the operations of my business, but it also served as an affirmation to the existing protocols that I have in place.” Lilley says that the programme serves as a platform for information sharing in a non-threatening environment that helps to initiate conversations about the industry and general practices. “Planning is the key to success of this programme,” Lilley says. “Booking the connection sessions in advance and planning the topics that will be covered at each session is vital. "I would also love to have another opportunity and be paired with international mentors as well – an international perspective would be fabulous!” It seems that the GMP has taken these suggestions into consideration. Stoltz reports that, from January next year, a new platform will be put in place where mentors and mentees are able to apply and select their match globally. “I am extremely excited for the next phase, as mentees will be able to learn from mentors that represent much bigger and older spas than here in South Africa,” says Stoltz. Mentees and mentors now represent over 30 countries, including Australia, Canada, Germany, Hong Kong, Ireland, Jordan, Kuwait, Maldives, Mexico, Nicaragua, Pakistan, Poland, Qatar, Romania, Russia,
GMP feedback Snapshot questionnaires conducted by the GMP revealed: • 98% of mentors and mentees believe it was “very successful” or “successful.” • 100% of mentors and mentees believe the GMP benefits the spa industry. • 86% of mentees felt “absolutely” more motivated at work after being mentored. • 79% of mentees felt “absolutely” more productive at work after being mentored. • 97% of the mentees believe they are now better leaders. • The mentees also gave their mentors a boost of energy and motivation. • Top areas focused on reflected by the mentors were: leadership and management, strategic and business planning, human resources and priority management.
Singapore, South Africa, Sweden, Thailand, UAE, UK, and the USA.
Where to sign up? To participate in the programme, please visit www.mentorshipevidence. com. There you will find information on how to join the programme, additional resources for getting the most out of your mentorship, and soon an online platform to connect with mentors and mentees around the world. “The criteria are clear and the process is easy,” says Stoltz. “I would recommend that interested parties apply from September, when the new platform is live.” She concludes by emphasising that the GMP is the only formal mentorship programme of its kind serving the global spa and wellness industry. PB Helena Raats is the former editor of Professional Beauty and several other business-to-business magazines. She has 20 years’ experience in publishing and owns a community newspaper in Limpopo.
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the
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business tips
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Making every cent count Mimmie Lancaster shares some strategies that are designed to impact positively on your revenue stream.
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e all know that the economy is down and times are tough. It is particularly apparent when you walk through your favourite mall and you see how many shops have closed their doors. I have successfully introduced the following practical steps at some of the salons and spas that I consult to, so implementing them should ensure that you get through these hard times. Carefully consider what drives your revenue and make sure you do more of what works for you. Firstly, draw up a report on all treatments done over the past eight months. Mark the treatments from the most popular to the least. Now look at the cost of each of the most popular treatments. Not just product cost, but the time it takes to
do each treatment, the ‘smalls & towel’ costs and therapist’s commission (if it applies). Are your prices on these treatments market-related and is your profit at least 300-400% on each treatment? Now increase the price of each one of your most popular treatments by between 15 and 20%. By keeping all other prices the same and only increasing the prices of the most sold treatments, clients will not feel the increase as much.
‘Outdated’ During your next staff meeting discuss the treatments on your menu that have not sold over the past eight months. If the general consensus is that these treatments are ‘outdated’, or that clients are simply not requesting them any more, remove them from your treatment menu. This will impact not only your professional stock holding as you no longer have to order and keep the products needed to do these treatments, but also the retail product supporting these treatments. Should
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Are your treatment prices market-related and is your profit at least 300-400% on each treatment?
you still have quite a bit of stock left of the treatments you are taking off the menu, see how you can include these products into other treatments until they are finished. You can offer specials where you include these products, like a peeling on the hands with a manicure, or an eye treatment with an anti-ageing facial, or a back exfoliation with a body massage. The product left over will have to guide you as to what once-off specials to offer.
Research Do a bit of research in your area and compare the prices of your most popular treatments with what other spas or salons are charging. R
Professional Beauty September 2016
business tips
30 If you have a plasma screen, then advertise your best-selling treatments on there. Remember that each visual should be repeated a few times to make an impact. So slot them in, space them out, change them slightly, but repeat them for impact. It is a good idea to advertise your vouchers on the ‘big screen’ as well.
Consider your skills, product used and environment carefully and market yourself accordingly. The public knows that cheap is not necessarily the best. You will always get ‘bargain-hunters’ who shop around for the best price, but they don’t usually take your professional advice or buy any retail to support their treatments. And, in all honesty, is this the kind of clientele you want? People still pay for quality and good service, even in these times. Do the same exercise with your retail products. See which products have sold easily over the last eight months and which have not. Only keep that which sells easily and regularly. Products that sit on the shelf month after month affect your cash flow negatively. Should a client want a product that you do not have on the shelf, ask for a deposit or full payment and order the product. Make sure you call the client the moment the product arrives.
Kitchen-wise Another area where significant amounts can be saved is the kitchen. Take a look at your wash cycles and see if you can save water and electricity by selecting shorter cycles for lesser-soiled towels and linen. One of our spas saves around R3000 per month by simply shortening and changing the temperatures of its wash cycles! If you use plunge pots to serve coffee, use smaller pots for a single serving and the same with the teapots, as a smaller pot needs only one bag. The wastage of coffee, tea and milk all adds up.
Reception Take a critical look at your reception area and front desk. Are key products on display and within easy reach of paying clients? Placing a few of the most popular nail colours, a hand cream and cuticle oil or lip balm and mask close to where clients pay often incentivises the client to purchase. Do, however, ensure that you change these products from time to time and according to special days in the month. Gift vouchers are also key sellers, so always have vouchers on display near or at the front desk.
Extras
Only keep products which sell easily and regularly. Products that sit on the shelf month after month affect your cash flow negatively.
Fresh flowers are synonymous with the spa and salon environment and I cannot imagine any spa or salon without at least one bunch placed where all clients can see and enjoy their beauty. This cost, however, does add up, sometimes to significant amounts. Consider less expensive options, or a single stem in an interesting vase. Pot plants, especially orchids, not only look beautiful, but last longer than a bunch of fresh flowers. Electric blankets are welcoming and wonderful but costly, especially if you have quite a few treatment beds. A plush, covered hot water bottle works just as well and it looks appealing, especially if it matches your colour scheme. The client also feels especially cared for when the therapist hands her the warm water bottle, saying: “This has been specially prepared for you ….” PB
Mimmie Lancaster has been involved in the health, skincare and spa industry for more than 28 years and consults to various salons and spas in South Africa. E-mail: mimmielancaster @gmail.com
Professional Beauty September 2016
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匀吀䄀刀䐀唀匀吀
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Staying on top of your game
Debbie Merdjan unpacks two words that are vitally important for any successful spa, namely ‘revenue management’.
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hen you’re in business you’ll hear about revenue management all the time. But revenue management is not a single defining thing; it’s all the past, the present and the future. It’s about being on top of everything. Revenue management means analysing current sales trends and forecasting future results. It means keeping records of all past transactions to see what has, and has not, worked. It means monitoring your revenue, being able to predict consumer behaviour and working on this behaviour to maximise growth in your spa.
Professional Beauty September 2016
Many owners think that if they build a beautiful spa, clients will automatically follow. But there is a lot of competition out there. You have to create an environment where customers want to come, shop, spend and return, and where you will ultimately profit.
demand periods. Be aware of your downtimes and offer ‘packages’ over these times.
Structure Work on structure first. Simply put, this means have plans and ensure that you and all your staff are aware of these plans. Structure your analysis, prices, systems and strategies. Have weekly meetings. Discuss what is bringing in the most money and what is bringing in the least. Discuss what your clientele seem to enjoy the most and what is perhaps not working. Remember – when working on strategy and revenue, make decisions that are based on knowledge and not on emotions. Make decisions based on profit or what will become profit. Then, engineer your spa menu in the most optimal way. You want to sell the treatments that generate the most income. Base your pricing on the level of demand. Be aware of your busy times. Offer those treatments that generate the most income over peak
Discounting We’ve touched on discounting before, but a reminder – be very careful about discounting and discounting too often. You are, after all, not ‘that kind of spa or salon’. Make sure you exude the right impression, depending on the kind of customer you have or want to attract.
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If you are discounting or offering special deals, don’t ever let your client think that a price difference is unfair. If they’re paying peak price, make sure they know why (e.g. busy time, best product, most experienced therapist, etc.). Always keep sight of the client. Spas are busy over the weekends, especially between mid-morning and late afternoon. If manicures don't generate big income, rather offer manicure specials for earlier or later. During the peak hours, offer indulgent treatments or massages that are high in profitability. Work on advance bookings and sales. Offer early bird massages or express massages and always encourage pre-bookings. Manage these bookings well. We all know that some people don't turn up for appointments. How do you get around this? Should you ask for a deposit? You can, as it is absolutely within your right. Do it in such a way that the client feels they are getting something extra with the deposit
- perhaps a complimentary use of facilities, an added value treatment, or a manicure or voucher after every six appointments. Have a fabulous waiting area or relaxation room where people can wait. Offer tea, music and cosy chairs. Make clients feel like they’re not waiting, even if they are.
Staff Most importantly, manage your staff well. They are your number one asset. Have less staff in quiet times and more in busy times. Maybe always have a therapist ‘on call’ in case you suddenly get busy. Incentivise your staff. Ensure they know you are looking out for them too, as well as looking out for your spa. Don’t forget to look at your competitors to see what they are doing. Anticipate their pricing strategies. Book and go for a treatment to see how they handle you and your spa experience. And, be flexible. You need to adapt
different prices to different types of clients and to different times of the day. You can do ‘Happy Hours’ which may appeal, for example, to tourists. A ‘Happy Hour’ would, of course, be when you are not busy. A bit like a ‘Happy Hour’ in a bar. And never turn down a client. If you can’t fit them in, offer them an alternative. For example: ‘We can’t do a massage immediately, so sorry, but we could do a manicure now and then perhaps a massage at 5pm?’ Ensure your staff know to never turn anyone away. And then, research. If you have treatments or products that are not selling, stop selling them. Treatment menus should be looked at every few months, changed and adapted. Sell what your clients want to buy. Be on top of everything. Manage your revenue. Manage it well. Watch everything fall into place. PB
Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982, started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty September 2016
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The art of employee engagement When you have a highly engaged team in your salon or spa, there is less staff turnover, less absenteeism and a closer connection between management and employees, writes Lauren Gibson.
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here is an element of excitement when September arrives. We all suddenly have the mindset of spring cleaning, thinking of new ideas or changing our businesses. However, change is always occurring and a prime example of that is our industry itself. Our industry doesn’t wait for Spring; it launches new products, new treatments, new types of businesses and training schools all year around. Staff, however, usually start to feel flat, demotivated and unloved around this time of year. Their engagement in the business starts to dwindle. Employee engagement is the extent to which employees feel passionate about their jobs, are committed to the organisation, and put effort into their
work without being asked to do so. This is not the same thing as happy staff.
Proactive influence A great idea is to have quarterly sessions with your team to brainstorm ideas that you can put into practice in your business. Quarterly feedback on your management or leadership style is vital. Yes, it is not easy to receive feedback from your staff about yourself, but it does allow their voices to be heard and for you to have a discussion on elements that may be affecting their work performance, as one of these elements could be you. As South African internet entrepreneur Vinny Lingham once said: “A strong company culture and DNA is probably the most valuable asset overlooked by traditional accounting methods. It pays dividends that are incalculable and sets the tone for any organisation.� Your culture, rhythms and rituals in your business is critical. There needs to be an underlying DNA employees can plug into to keep them engaged. Everything you do as a business should speak to your culture and DNA. PB
An engaged employee is one who positively and proactively influences business operations. They are innovative and assist with problemsolving or solutions to concerns without having to be asked. Having an engaged team not only boosts morale but it boosts productivity and profits in your business as well. In a study done in South Africa late last year by a company called PDT, it found that 85% of respondents said they want more frequent, direct and open engagement with the companies they work for. And 73% of employees said they wanted their managers to lead and communicate better with them.
Leader driven Unfortunately for owners, employee engagement is leaderand/or manager-driven and is not a one size fits all approach. You need to understand your team, what gets them excited, how to unlock their creativity and harness it in your business.
Lauren Gibson has worked for Dermalogica for nearly four years. She has been an educator, sales brand consultant, and, more recently, the regional manager for Cape Town. Her passion lies in up-skilling people, seeing the potential in businesses and unlocking that potential and constantly learning to reignite her love for the industry. E-mail laureng@dermalogica.co.za
Professional Beauty September 2016
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Building the dream team One of the most demanding aspects of managing a salon or spa is your human capital, and, if you don’t get it right, you could end up with major problems, writes Ayesha Rajah.
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hink about it – your workspace is constantly overlapping with two or three therapists having to share the same room, and there is no reprieve of a closed office if you are having a bad day. Consistent client demands, labour-intensive job, pressure of achieving new targets every month, sharing equipment, and, in some cases, therapists having to do the same treatments day in and day out for years in the same environment. So, it’s important to get it right from the start. I know you are thinking: ‘Easier said than done’. But the cold hard fact is if you don’t crack it at the hiring stage, you can have a small issue develop into a nightmare down the line. Yes, it only takes one negative personality to affect your entire team. Often this person is perceived to be a roadblock and can affect productivity and positive change. In other words, this person’s way of thinking, or approach to work, is radically different to the culture and general team view. There are two key ingredients to
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Miss Thundercloud I have touched on this a little above as the negative personality and this personality, either consciously or unconsciously, spreads heaviness around her. Your red flags are: someone who hardly smiles in the interview; has predominantly negative things to say about her previous employers; knows it all; and finds it hard to define her short- and long-term career goals. R
consider when hiring – personality and attitude. If both these attributes align with your overall business culture, than skills can be refined and trained. Having said that, just relying on a bubbly personality is taking a one-dimensional approach. We all have different personality traits, so applying a ‘blanket management’ style is simply not going to work if you aiming to build your dream team. Here are some insights to different personality types in our industry and what to look out for.
Professional Beauty September 2016
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38 If this type of personality is currently in your employment, you need to cut your losses and have her out before she rubs off on the rest of your team.
The Driver This kind of therapist is probably your highest retailer and has the loudest, most bubbly, personality in your team. You need at least one driver in your team. They tend to have a large client following, can build strong client relationships, activate conversions, drive sales, are great at events and promotions, and also create an energetic work environment. Their over-the-top personality can be offputting to some clients, but I would suggest that you book 50% of new clients with them for the above reasons.
What to look out for in the interview: this personality is bubbly, warm and engaging. She is a true people's person and loves talking about her connections with others and accomplishments. This personality will motivate other staff members, but be cautious when it comes to her big ego. You
might need to rein it in occasionally so she does not step on other staff members’ toes. Although this personality drives sales and motivation, they sometimes lack attention to detail. Hence administrative, laborious desk work is not their strong suit.
Calmly conscientious To have a well-balanced team you definitely need this personality.
get comfortable with her and then she ups and leaves. Most frustrating, I know. But to take a more favourable viewpoint, all this personality wants to achieve is career advancement in the shortest timeframe possible. Career advancement is what drives her. If you are a larger business you can work with this, but if you are unable to map out a clear career path, you are going to struggle. This personality thirsts for knowledge and will take every opportunity to be up-skilled, hence becoming an all-rounder in your business. She is not a ‘sitting on the fence’ type and will be willing to assist in all business aspects, from marketing to operations. She is also brilliant at both absorbing and performing new training protocols. As long as you can offer career progression, she will stay. Hopefully this information will assist you when hiring, as all personalities contribute greatly to your business. PB
Clients who prefer a quieter, calmer, softer personality will love her. She will be more approachable to clients who are reserved and shy, or clients who come just to unwind. She will have a large client request ratio, but struggles with sales conversions, so have front desk assist with closing sales for her. She will come across as reserved but confident in her interview, with a softer tone in her voice and demeanour. Be mindful that she will need encouragement. Book some one-on-one time with her, to support her and give her the opportunity to vocalise issues she can’t always do in large staff meetings.
The Job-hopper
The cold hard fact is if you don’t crack it at the hiring stage, you can have a small issue develop into a nightmare down the line.
Professional Beauty September 2016
The lack of staying power in this personality's CV will scream right out at you. This can be viewed both negatively and positively. I know this sounds strange but just bear with me. Negatively for obvious reasons as you up-skill her, clients are going to just
Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and SkinDoctors.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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Q&A with Dr Des World renowned aesthetic surgeon and founder of Environ Professional Skin Care, Dr Des Fernandes, answers your questions about micro-needling. QUESTION: What exactly is micro-needling? DR DES: Some people use the word micro-needling when they talk about 3mm needling of skin, whereas others use it for 1mm needling of skin. I personally believe that microneedling is the proper term for cosmetic needling of skin to enhance penetration of product.
QUESTION: What are the benefits of micro-needling? DR DES: Needles that are 0.1mm – 0.5mm in length result in enhanced penetration. This is a technique to try and bypass the outer skin barrier, which is 0.01mm – 0.02mm thick. The stratum corneum is the only barrier to penetration through skin of properly applied product. 1mm needles penetrate into the very superficial arterioles of the upper dermis, cause bleeding into the surrounding tissues and platelets are automatically released. The platelets tend to burst when they are outside the bloodstream and release growth factors as well as clotting factors. The growth factors result in the thickening of the epidermis, more deposition of natural collagen in a lattice framework, as well as vertically oriented elastin fibres. Other growth factors cause regeneration of tissue, so that scars become replaced by virtually normal tissue. Simultaneously, certain factors are released which promote lightening of pigmented areas. As a result of 1mm needling, the skin takes on a healthier normal radiant appearance. The skin is tightened and if sufficient treatments are done, one may even see lifting
of the facial skin. Acne scars and burn scars become less evident. Stretchmarks respond wonderfully and become less visible with healthier, tighter skin. Lax skin becomes tighter. 3mm needling is at times also called micro-needling and the effects are exactly the same as 1mm needling, but more intense.
QUESTION: How would cosmetic needling improve the production of collagen?
QUESTION: What was the inspiration behind the Environ Roll CIT?
DR DES: It would only improve collagen production if one uses a topical product that improves collagen production and contains ingredients such as either vitamin A, vitamin C, or peptides that induce collagen, etc.
DR DES: When I started needling I used a mechanical device, very similar to the pen type of devices used by many people today, but realised that I needed the needles to go deeper. I also believed that the holes should not be as close together as they are with mechanical needling. While I never experienced the problem of scarification, because I was trained by a tattoo artist, I realised that for the untrained person mechanical needling does pose the risk of scarification. A rolling device would allow us to cover larger areas safely. At that stage I didn’t know that Dr Pistor had designed a rolling device in the 1950s. His instrument is a far more cruel-looking device.
QUESTION: What would you recommend from Environ for collagen stimulation? DR DES: All of our vitamin A products; all of the products containing vitamin C (like C-Boost); all of the products containing Matrixyl and peptides, including Apres-Cit to be used after 1mm (medical) needling, SonoPeptide Serum, Avance and the C-Quence Range. PB
Dr Des Fernandes is a world renowned aesthetic surgeon and founder of Environ Professional Skin Care which is found in more than 70 countries worldwide. He was a pioneer in the use of vitamin A in skin care formulations. If you would like to pose a question to Dr Des Fernandes, please email the editor on joanna@probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty September 2016
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The differentiation strategy
In the second part of a series of articles, Rina McKellar unlocks ‘The magic of marketing’.
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hat makes me 'SO' special? This is a really simple question…. and the answer should be just as simple. It should roll off the tongue. It should be second nature. It should be easy. But often it is a question that causes most of us to stop dead in our tracks. It makes many squirm on both a personal and professional level. On an individual level, this type of conversation is reserved mainly for interviews at boardroom tables, or perhaps flirted with on a first date. But more than that, I doubt it gets much airtime. In the business world it should be a much more comfortable topic. Surprisingly it often isn’t. For many a business owner this question only leads to ‘ums’ and ‘ahs’ or perhaps a spout of clichéd slogans like: ‘Because we are fantastic’ or ‘We deliver the best service’. But is this really enough? Is this kind of answer enough to set your business apart from the many other salons and spas out there?
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The deeper question is: What makes you unique? What makes you different to your competitor? What puts you in your own league? What sets you apart? And how would your answer differ from that of everyone else?
Price One of the most common differentiation strategies used in the retail industry is price. An easy example to illustrate this is our home furnishing or décor industry. In years gone by, this segment was earmarked only for the rich. Cheaper furniture brands existed, but certainly not with the same design flair as for the upper echelons of society. Enter companies like Mr Price Home in the late 1990s and suddenly this sector saw an explosion and a big-bang boom. Interior design was no longer just for the opulent. Beautiful, contemporary products were made affordable through a strong differentiation strategy: price. Suddenly everyone had access to a previously elite offering at affordable prices. Other brands evolved and
today there is no shortage of pretty linens, funky desks and quirky prints at any price level. Pricing formed a part of their marketing ethos and is an integral part of their brand. Mr Price is so unashamedly proud of this differentiation pillar that it is gloriously displayed in its name. Very Clever.
Pros and cons As with any strategy, there are pros and cons. For example, lower pricing is almost always associated with inferior quality, so brands have had to factor in how to turn this to their advantage. So R
The deeper question is: What makes you unique? What makes you different to your competitor? What puts you in your own league?
Professional Beauty September 2016
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words like ‘low cost’ creep in instead of ‘cheap’, to make it more palatable and marketable and less crass; think low-cost housing, low-cost airlines etc. There is now an entire category of ‘low-cost’ anythings. And yet, while everyone is always looking for a good deal, if something is too cheap, a great deal of scepticism usually lurks not far behind. The old adage of ‘you get what you pay for’ has been doing the rounds for decades and will continue long into the future. There is still a deep ingrained belief that marries ‘expensive’ with supreme quality, service and delivery. Another downside is that cheaper pricing is also not always defendable. There will always be a competitor willing to do it for less. Lower pricing is therefore not the only differentiation pillar on which to build an entire strategy. It can indeed form part of a formula, but it cannot be the sole distinction factor. It is too easily attacked and a good strategy should be able to stand through many a storm.
Clear distinction While a pricing strategy may not be completely common to the spa industry in this country, it does highlight the clear distinction between retailers operating in the same area.
Professional Beauty September 2016
Individuality
There will always be a competitor willing to do it for less. Lower pricing is therefore not the only differentiation pillar on which to build an entire strategy.
So….what makes you different? For many business owners (and not just those involved with wellness) their answer quite simply lies in their own individual creativity and uniqueness and personality. But here is the conundrum: How does that creativity get translated into solid business practices and marketing activities? How does it become a business pillar or ethos? R
And perhaps this clarity of a separate industry can be applied. Saying that, however, it is also very clear that with brands like Massage Envy in the US, there is room for everyone at the table and their differentiation through price is neatly and appetisingly defined as affordable. They are defining their difference and owning their space and expanding into the spa arena. The truth is, if you asked the custodians of brands like Mr Price or Massage Envy about what makes them special or different, they will know, without a doubt. They operate this ethos throughout their branches and divisions. It is core to their brand. It’s what sets them apart. It’s what makes them special and different. They will not ‘um’ and ‘ah’. They know their answer.
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BABOR South Africa Telephone: 011 467 0110 • Email: babor.sa@babor.co.za • Website: www.babor.co.za
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For the above-mentioned brands the differentiation chosen is not merely to be different, it is how they operate. It becomes ingrained in business practice. It is how they market themselves and how they communicate their offering. It forms part of advertising campaigns. It forms part of their day to day lives. The real challenge is to build your business on more than just the differentiation of only your creativity uniqueness. As with pricing, we saw it is not the only thing. So what else can you do that sets you apart and that gives you a guaranteed place at the table for the long run? Perhaps take some time to jot down a few ideas that make you different. Think about the things that make your brand/your spa stand out
owners the answers are in their heads. They know intrinsically but aren’t able to articulate it succinctly. Once you’ve grappled with a few ideas and come to some acceptable solutions ask yourself the following questions: 1. How does your differentiation form part of your business and marketing strategy? 2. How does it help you get new clients or retain your old ones? 3. How does it help to grow your business? 4. How do you use your difference to get ahead of your competitor? It is one thing to know your difference and your uniqueness, but another to use it to propel your business to the next level. Looking at all of these things in isolation can be daunting, but think about it like puzzle pieces; nice big puzzle pieces or building blocks that come together to form a picture. In this series on marketing we will look at those different pieces and how putting them together can help formulate your marketing strategy so that you can set objectives, achieve your goals and be what you dreamt of being when you first started out. Here’s to unlocking the magic of marketing! PB
and what makes it successful. But then answer the following questions: 1. Is it defendable? (Can it be easily copied, such as a new service offering?) 2. Is it dependable? (Are you reliant on ONE thing or ONE person?) 3. Is it sustainable? (Is it a winning formula that can still be around in 20 years?) It may not all fall into place at the right time, but for the majority of business
The real challenge is to build your business on more than just the differentiation of only your creativity uniqueness.
Rina McKellar has over 18 years of experience across varied industries ranging from pharmaceutical to financial. She has worked with large corporate brands like Standard Bank, Vital and Pfizer. Now as a director of Blue IQ, McKellar seeks to bring about transformation and growth on all levels.
Professional Beauty September 2016
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spa focus
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Aiming for the pinnacle With the world a global village and South Africa a prime tourist destination, local spas wanting to attract overseas guests must aim to achieve world-class standards, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.
I
n order to achieve world-class standards let’s first clearly understand what a standard is. The definition of the word standard is: ‘a level of quality or attainment’. Why is this important for your spa or salon business? Quite simply because the business that offers the highest level of quality and memorable service is the one that will get the repeat clients and loyalty. With the marketplace currently in a challenging situation, where there are spas and salons closing down on a monthly basis, your responsibility as owners and managers, as well as therapists working in the business, is to take a step back and look at the detail of the service. Look at the quality of what you are offering, from products to the dialogue used when speaking to clients, as well as the post-treatment service that you deliver.
Professional Beauty September 2016
Let me take you through a few simple steps you can follow to implement and achieve world-class standards in your spa and salon.
Setting a standard for each aspect of your business starts with you as owner, together with the manager.
First things first Setting a standard for each aspect of your business starts with you as owner, together with the manager. For instance, you and your manager need to decide exactly how you would like a client greeted. One good way is for front desk staff to stand and acknowledge the client’s entrance by saying: “Good morning Mrs Smith, welcome back to (salon name). How are you today?” Wait for the response and then confirm the treatment booked and who the therapist is that will perform the treatment. Offer the client a drink and so on….. How do you know if your standard is world-class? Quite simply, you either have to experience treatments
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everywhere you travel to have an awareness of international standards, or you have to call in a professional who has experienced treatments all around the world and understands exactly the level where the service delivery needs to be.
In writing Documenting the standard is a very important step and cannot be vague under any circumstances. Basically, you provide an official document with a step by step guide on the service standard, with a script for any dialogue if necessary. See below a detailed service delivery document:
Every business tells a story. ESP brings you the tools and the team to write your own.
SPA NAME POLICIES AND PROCEDURES Subject: Addressing a client
Code:
Division: All staff members Standard: • Greet all clients clearly and by their name. Make eye contact and smile • Always give your client clear instructions on what to do and where to wait. • Call the relevant staff member to notify them that the client is waiting for them. • Be friendly, polite and of service at all times. Policy: Client must be made to feel welcome at all times. Client is to feel like they are the most important person there and their time is special and will be memorable. Procedure: • Clients have to be acknowledged immediately, even if the receptionist cannot help them right away. Good morning Mr/Mrs …… or first name if you are very familiar with the client. I will be with you in a moment (if you are busy). • Welcome to (spa name). So nice to have you back or so nice to meet you for first time. • To confirm you are having a 60-minute facial with (therapist name). Wait for answer. Can we offer you a pedicure at the same time, or perhaps a lash and brow tint, or even a special heating mask on your skin? None of these treatments will take any extra time and there is a small charge for them. • Client is to be offered a beverage while waiting for the staff member. • Never discuss personal/work-related problems with a client. • Try to keep the conversation in reception limited to enable the client to feel at ease. So, for example, ask how are you and the family doing? Or, how is work? Or, are you having a great day so far? Short to the point questions to engage conversation and make the guest feel important
R
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You will need to document your standards as above for every single aspect of your business, meaning that you could have hundreds of these documents. Ensure that you give each one a code or a number for ease of reference.
Training The area in which I feel that most spas/salons are lacking is in the training of these standards. They are documenting their standards but not following through with thorough training. A new staff member should be trained as follows: • One full day theory training of standards; • Ten full days of performing/ practising each treatment according to standard; • Two full days of working at reception answering phones, checking guests in and out and back of house responsibilities;
• One full day of evaluation with three mystery guests; • One full day of feedback and further training if necessary. How many of you put your new employees on 15 full days of training before you put them on the floor for business? You are probably thinking that having a therapist in training for 15 days is a lot of revenue lost, but actually rather think about how much revenue you will lose if you don’t train your staff properly. Most important is to do regular checks and adjustments to these standards. This means at least one mystery guest evaluation per therapist every two to three months with written feedback from the guest about every aspect of her visit and rating all staff with whom that person was in contact. Trying to run a business today without this is like driving directionless to a destination; you will get there, but it will take you five times longer, with many expensive mistakes along the way. PB
Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.
Professional Beauty September 2016
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Spaon your doorstep An innovative new concept brings mobile spa services to guests at holiday destinations in the Cape, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
T
he first Wellness Mobile Hideaway spa service in South Africa has just launched and is stationed at Old Mac Daddy in the picturesque Elgin Valley, to the southeast of Cape Town. “Our service is not just a therapist who works out of her car boot, but one who has a proper treatment room, complete with shower and all the equipment needed for all kinds of spa treatments, such as facials, body wraps, manicures, pedicures, waxing, tinting, massage, and exfoliation,” says Wellness Mobile Hideaway co-founder, Marc Sanders. He notes that the service is ideal for (safari) lodges and hotels that want to offer a spa service to their clients but don’t want to invest in costly infrastructure. “It is also suitable for people who want to have a bridal shower or a baby shower,” continues Sanders. “We work together with Perfect Hideaways, a company that rents beautiful houses in remote areas for a weekend or midweek. “Although the Wellness Mobile Hideaway concept is brand-new, people are most certainly intrigued by it. We are attracting foreigners and up-market, discerning individuals who have no desire to leave their holiday destination to enjoy spa services.”
Professional Beauty September 2016
Sanders has been in the spa industry since 1984 and used to own three large spas in the Netherlands. “One of my co-founders in Wellness Mobile Hideaway is my Marc Sanders brother-in-law, Bart Nollen, an ‘out-of-the-box’ thinker who comes from a legal background and is involved in sustainable energy. The other co-founder is Jennifer Lalley, who has a long history in lodge management and development in ecotourism. It was her idea to donate a
He notes that the second Wellness Mobile Hideaway spa is in the pipeline and will travel around the Western Cape to begin with. Long-term plans are to expand into Botswana and Namibia.
Conception The concept for Wellness Mobile Hideaway came about when Sanders, who was born in the Netherlands and had spent his entire life there, moved to South Africa with his family in 2014. “We used to travel frequently but South Africa always felt like coming home. I would spend time in game lodges and always dreamed of having a spa in these remote locations,” he comments.
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spa focus
51 percentage of our turnover to nature conservation projects.” The spa product brand of choice for Wellness Mobile Hideaway is Healing Earth, an African range created by Elisabeth Brandt. Depilève is used for waxing services.
Getaway experience According to Sanders, wellness is the next "We are attracting industrial revolution. “With foreigners and up-market, life as it is today and with technology being so discerning individuals who advanced, it is difficult have no desire to leave to switch off and relax. your overall Our mobile spa service wellbeing. their holiday destination to provides a getaway About three enjoy spa services." experience in a private d e c a d e s - Marc Sanders location to unwind and relax. ago, people The fact that we are able to would select a visit you in these locations allows destination if it had a you the freedom of the environment swimming pool attached and the mental escape too. to it, now they choose their “We believe that every rand spent destinations to harness the enjoyment of on wellness experiences saves R10 on a spa experience.” any healthcare needed down the line. Mobile Wellness Hideaway Karmen_Instant_half Page.pdf 1 2016/07/25 2:20 PM So, therefore, by investing in your ‘time- currently has eight therapists – two out’ experience, you are enhancing massage therapists and four beauty
therapists, with two students from Isa Carstens in Stellenbosch, who help out when necessary. “Our therapists are all referrals and we provide a referral/incentive fee to those bringing suitable individuals in. We enjoy working as a friendly team. “In addition, we try to draw from the local community, where applicable and possible, providing work for them, as well as training. To keep our staff on their toes, we periodically do training and have mystery guests to ensure that proper standards are being adhered to,” concludes Sanders. PB
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That sun-kissed glow With Spring around the corner, Joanna Sterkowicz opts for a Spraytan treatment to transform her ghostly pallor into a healthy golden hue.
B
eing a sunless tanning virgin (so to speak), I was greatly encouraged to hear from Spraytan distributor and educator, Teresa Barber that my treatment would neither turn my skin orange, nor result in a streaky appearance. Barber pointed out that Spraytan contains Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), an FDA-approved colourless chemical that interacts with the dead cells located in the stratum corneum of the epidermis.
Professional Beauty September 2016
She continued: “The DHA causes a chemical reaction with the amino acids on the outermost layer of the skin, temporarily darkening it and simulating a tan. A Spraytan treatment typically lasts from between five to eight days from date of application. “Another advantage of the Spraytan system is that it is a water-based product so it dries quickly and there is no odour. In addition it is free from alcohol and aloe vera and can be used on the face.” According to Barber, unlike Spraytan, some sunless tanning systems on the market contain a chemical called Erythrulose. “It’s important to note that Erythrulose has not been approved by the FDA.” My Spraytan treatment took place at the deluxe Sandton salon, Viso Bello, in the Grayston Centre. Somatologist Anina Connoway, who is as paleskinned as myself, commented that she herself uses Spraytan. “I love the product because it gives the skin a natural-looking glow. It’s a very popular treatment at Viso Bello in summer. We even have some clients who come in during winter for Spraytan if they have to travel to sunny destinations.” To commence the treatment, Connoway dry brushed my body to prepare it for exfoliation. Viso Bello uses Kalahari exfoliators and following the scrub, I was asked to shower. I then
stepped into the tanning cubicle. Connoway loaded Spraytan Tanning Solution Number 8 into the Spraytan Mini Mist, a small HVLP (high volume low pressure) machine that emits a very fine spray. She then proceeded to spray the solution slowly and evenly over my whole body. The entire process took about 10 minutes. Once Connoway had finished, I was absolutely amazed and delighted to see that my formerly bleak, white skin was now an attractive light golden hue. I would definitely have this treatment again, no question about it. In terms of post treatment after care, you are advised not to bath or swim for at least eight hours and to wear loose, dark clothing for the same amount of time. Connoway noted that using a good quality body lotion, like the Spraytan Moisturising Body Lotion, helps to prolong the treatment results. Spraytan also offers a Tan Extender Lotion that can be applied from Day 3 onwards and will make the tan last longer. PB Contact Spraytan Tel: 021 557 5279 / 012 661 4033
online at www.probeauty.co.za
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty September 2016
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In pursuit of youth(ful skin)
Anti-ageing products and treatments arguably form the biggest sector of the skincare industry. In fact, the anti-ageing face cream segment is expected to reach US$ 6.11bn by 2021*.
D
r Kateryna Tsvyetkova (MD, PhD, Homeopath), co-founder of h o m e o p a t h i c aromatherapy range, Lilian Terry International (LTI), states that high levels of sun radiation and increased stress in daily lifestyle result in the premature ageing of the skin. “Scientific research has shown that premature ageing will be more pronounced in the next decade due to environmental factors such as global warming, increased sun radiation, an increased level of xenobiotics and higher levels of daily stress,” she says. The eternal quest to prevent and/or reduce wrinkles, expression lines, pigmentation and other environmentally related conditions of ageing skin continuously prompts professional skincare brands to push the envelope in terms of technological advances. A case in point is Thalgo, whose Hyaluronic Range was created to smooth and fill pronounced wrinkles. This compact treatment and home care range features marine hyaluronic acid molecules for optimal absorption of active ingredients and immediate results.
Professional Beauty September 2016
products, treat all signs of ageing skin, namely wrinkles, lack of tone, pigmentation, unrefined skin texture and lack of radiance.” The three main ingredients throughout the Lab Institute Cellular3 range are: Malt Secret (a very effective anti-oxidant to prevent cellular damage); 3GF Cellular Booster (three growth factors encapsulated in liposomes for deeper penetration and which stimulate regeneration of cells to reduce the degradation caused by glycation); and Progeline (an amino acid peptide that reduces signs of ageing such as sagging and wrinkles, by improving firmness, elasticity and shaping the facial oval).
With a particular focus on ages 35 to 45, the Thalgo Hyaluronic Range makes skin look up to four years younger, as it firms the skin, with expression lines less noticeable.
From the ‘Lab’ The latest addition to Anesi’s antiageing range is Lab Institute Cellular3, based on cellular stimulation through carefully selected biotechnological active ingredients to address the three main scientifically proven causes of skin ageing – oxidative stress, glycation and DNA damage. Says Yolandi Mestre, Exclusive Beauty Solutions brand manager, Skin Division: “The Lab Institute Cellular3 treatment, as well as the home care
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anti-ageing
55 Pure gold
Neck-and-neck
Black Pearl’s 24kt Precious Day Cream is uniquely infused with 24 carat gold, which results in a deeply nourishing and moisturising product that improves circulation. Says Michelle Roberts of Black Pearl South Africa: “The 24kt Precious Day Cream acts as a powerful anti-oxidant and is anti-inflammatory, thus it aids the natural healing process. It energises the skin, prevents lines and wrinkles and protects against premature ageing.” The 24kt Gold Precious Day Cream is formulated with Tahitian Black Pearl, hyaluronic acid, resveratrol, collagen and Duniella, a powerful anti-oxidant.
From pHformula, N.E.C.K. recovery is a specially formulated neck cream that contains unique biotechnological blends that work cohesively to create a smoother, firmer, younger-looking neck and décolleté. N.E.C.K recovery tightens skin, helps restore elasticity and tone, smooths fine lines and wrinkles, boosts collagen production. In addition, it is an excellent moisturiser that protects against environmental damage.
this product comes with a moisturising Buffer Cream to help skin acclimate to this highly-active form of retinol,” say the experts at Dermalogica. For best results, they suggest mixing one part Overnight Retinol Repair with up to three parts Buffer Cream, to be applied to cleansed skin at night when cell renewal is at its prime. Once the skin is acclimated, the client may use Overnight Retinol Repair alone, prior to or mixed with their prescribed R Dermalogica moisturiser.
Repairing cream Dermalogica’s Overnight Retinol Repair cream accelerates skin renewal and reduces the appearance of skin ageing overnight. “Active microencapsulated pure retinol helps increase collagen production and cell turnover. Powerful peptides and anti-oxidant vitamin C help fight signs of ageing, including uneven skin tone and discoloration. “Formulated with a clinicallyproven bio-energised copper amino acid complex shown to reduce visible wrinkles and improve skin firmness,
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anti-ageing
57 Nutritious oil From Elemis, the Superfood Facial Oil combines the pure power of concentrated superfoods with the science and expertise behind every one of Elemis’ formulas.
Says Noella Gabriel, Elemis cofounder and MD: “What is good for the body is good for the skin and nothing packs a more powerfully nutritional punch than superfoods. That is why Elemis has developed a facial oil that harnesses their potent natural and nutritional elements, allowing the skin to benefit directly. Rich in anti-oxidants and minerals, the Superfood Facial Oil acts like a personal trainer for the skin, keeping it supple, strong and most of all, healthy – the key to a smooth, glowing and radiant complexion. “Broccoli seed oil leads the mineral charge in addressing hydration and softening the skin, while flax seed oil boasts soaring levels of Omega-3, which soothe and seal in moisture. Daikon radish helps everything absorb for increased levels of nourishment.”
Stem cells Pevonia describes its Stem Cells PhytoElite as ‘a breakthrough in phytobiology’, as it contains two forms of the most advanced plant stem cells, namely argan and comfrey. “In addition, Stem Cells Phyto Elite contains supercharged de-agers such as retinol, collagen, elastin and vitamin C,” says Sandra Hunter of Pevonia distributor, Brisan. “The symphytum (comfrey) stem cells stimulate epidermal stem cells and form a thicker and more compact epidermis with an increased hyaluronic acid content and an increased smoothness and renewal time.
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“Argan stem cells stimulate dermal stem cells and protect and normalise human dermal stem cells. They reduce wrinkle depth, improve firmness and improve the extra cellular matrix structure. This tightening of the dermal tissue leads to a much smoother dermal/hypodermal junction after 56 days. An eight week clinical test also showed the reorganising of the irregular dermis/hypodermis caused by adipose tissue protruding in the lower dermis, resulting in a much smoother skin surface.” Also available from Brisan, the BDR Beauty Re-lax3 is a multi-level serum that stimulates the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid. Highly active ingredients include Syn-ake, Coenzyme 10 and hyaluronic acid.
Telomeres According to Ursula Hunt of DermaFix, Telomere science is now considered ‘the holy grail’ of cellular ageing and longevity. “Telomeres are the caps at the end of each DNA strand and are damaged
by oxidative stress and glycation,” explains Hunt. “The epidermis is one of the most rapidly self-regenerating tissues in the body, replacing itself every four weeks in humans. To achieve regeneration in the dermis, a pool of active and healthy stem cells, together with well-maintained telomeres, must be present in the skin. Science has formulated Telosense, a bio-functional peptide shown to protect the telomere. “DermaFix makes use of a healthy dose of Telosense within our MD Prescriptives DNA Protection product. This thereby delays cellular senescence, whilst improving cell longevity in the fight against ageing. MD Prescriptives DNA Protection is applied to the skin before makeup, or alternatively prior to the application of sunscreen.” Hunt points out that MD Prescriptives Vitamin A Propionate supplies the skin with a beneficial application of vitamin A, helping with vitalisation of the skin and improving the appearance of wrinkles and dark spots. Unlike Vitamin A Palmitate, Vitamin A Propionate penetrates the epidermis, which is converted into vitamin A acid, the skin’s natural vitamin. Vitamin A acid is transported R
Professional Beauty September 2016
anti-ageing
58 Peptide reduces fine lines and wrinkles caused by dry skin and ensures a smoother appearance by reducing transepidermal water loss and lastly. Lastly, Relaxo Peptide, which has a ‘Botox-like’ effect, reduces expression lines by reducing muscle contractions,” say the experts at Babor.
Buzzing bees
The newly launched Beetox from Skin Doctors works to control facial muscles for cumulative tightening, lifting, plumping and firming of the skin. to the nucleus of the skin cell by retinoic acid receptors (RAR). In the nucleus, the vitamin A acid accelerates cell proliferation, prevents the rise of collagenase (the enzyme that breaks down collagen) and increases the amount of new collagen formed.
Homeopathic aromatherapy LTI’s Dr Kateryna Tsvyetkova notes that a big trend in skincare is to use nontoxic, non-irritating and hypoallergenic products that can prevent or delay the process of ageing.
“LTI’s homeopathic aromatherapy facial range includes seven facial products, namely Oxiderma, Hydraderma, Elastoderma, Derma Day, Derma Night, Aftersun and Coupederma. They have been formulated mainly for normal to dry skin exhibiting premature ageing signs like wrinkles, irritation, itchiness, hyperkeratosis, hyperpigmentation and slow regeneration, and can be easily used either at home or in a spa environment. “To prove the effectiveness of these complexes, I carried out a comprehensive research of skin biopsies together with Professor
Professional Beauty September 2016
Tamara Zadorozna of the Academy of Medical Science in Kiev, Ukraine. The study proved that LTI’s facial complexes – applied externally on a daily basis – stimulate a remarkable improvement in the metabolic and hormonal activity of the skin, resulting in a marked improvement in the aesthetic appearance of skin.”
Big lift Babor’s HSR Lifting Extra Firming Cream incorporates a highperformance anti-wrinkle precision formula that is effective against all kinds of lines and wrinkles. “Precisely harmonised, the active ingredients noticeably reduce expression lines (crow‘s feet, glabellar lines, forehead wrinkles, lip lines), gravitational lines (nasolabial folds, oral commissures and neck wrinkles) and wrinkles caused by dry skin. “Our anti-wrinkle precision formula contains multitendyn plus to reduce wrinkles, strengthen tissue and smooth the surface of the skin, while lupine extracts improve the elasticity of the skin and redefine facial contours, and carnosin reduces the formation of wrinkles caused by glycation (saccharification). Neuro-Receptor
“Bee venom fights the signs of ageing when used cosmetically, as it 'fools' the skin into thinking it has been lightly stung with the compound melittin, thus stimulating the production of the collagen and elastin,” says Ayesha Rajah of distributor, A&I Importers. She continues: “Trylagen targets the appearance of collagen in both young and mature skin, while manuka honey ensures that your skin is properly nourished, renewed and revitalised. Beetox is clinically proven to triple the formation of collagen in 15 days, and increase cell renewal by 80%, leaving the skin looking brighter, firmer and visibly younger.” Also from A&I Importers, the Priori Idebenone Moisturizing Facial Cream assists in skin rejuvenation while nourishing and hydrating devitalised complexion. It targets ageing at the cellular source – the mitochondria where the cream helps to revitalise the skin’s cells by elimiinating excess free radical formation that results from the way cells make energy. Rajah continues: “We also distribute Phytomer and its Structuriste cream has a 360-degree biotechnical formula with unprecedented properties that restructure the skin’s architecture.
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anti-ageing
59 This ultra-rich formula tackles the visible signs of skin slackening, loss of elasticity, lack of density and sagging facial contours.”
From the vine TheraVine’s UltraVine Advance Range is an array of advanced products based on extensive research and clinical testing, using the latest technological claim ingredients, resulting in antioxidants with optimal anti-ageing benefits.
Says Lisa Smit of TheraVine: “UltraVine Advance Range contains a tetrapeptide called Preventhelia, which prevents the damage caused directly or indirectly by UV radiation to DNA and proteins. This minimises photo-ageing but also promotes the skin’s DNA repair system capacity. Together with the powerful antioxidant, Lipochroman-6 and hylasome, an active blend of medicinal botanicals intensely hydrate, strengthen, support, revitalise and improve the texture of the skin.” The UltraVine Advance Range comprises five cutting edge products – RCS Day Cream; ROS Night Cream; RNS Concentrate; Rejuvenating Gold Collagen Film; and Contouring Retinol Eye Pads.
Melatogenine slows down keritinisation and this results in the epidermal cells being protected and ideally hydrated. The cells remain exceptionally soft and give the skin a youthful appearance. Says Helena Bezuidenhout, national training manager for Gatineau at Orleans Distributors: “Recently developed technology has enabled the use of probiotics in a topical application. An imbalance of microflora in our skin results in irritation and the stimulation of free radicals. These free radicals promote ageing and a collagen-digesting enzyme. Applying probiotics prevents this from occurring, and strengthens the skin’s barrier function by restoring the cutaneous balance.”
Generation X From Ericson Laboratoire, the new Genxskin Treatment utilises all the energy potential of a powerful and innovative agent, capable of stimulating vital cutaneous functions with the aim of restoring the ‘triangle of beauty’.
Probiotic power Gatineau’s patented Melatogenine AOX Probiotics range combines powerful anti-oxidants with natural probiotics – protecting the skin by creating an antiageing shield.
The main active ingredient is Matrigenics14 G, which is extracted
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from a brown macro-alga, Undaria pinnatifida that is rich in ester of wakame (sulfated galactofucan). Genxskin comprises a wide range of products, including Nutrigen (Rejuvenating Cleansing Milk); Perfect Surfacer (Resurfacing Peel); Lift Serum G14 (Face Restructuring Serum); Whitex Serum (Clarifying Anti-Age Serum) and Micro-Filler (Instant AntiAgeing Filler).
Earth-bound The new High Performance range from African spa brand, Healing Earth gently dissolves the intercellular glue between dead skin, allowing the penetration of unique anti-ageing active ingredients and the reconditioning of the skin, without compromising its barrier function. Says Healing Earth founder, Elizabeth Brandt. “With the use of modern technology and our expert world class scientists, Healing Earth has devised a way to enable valuable collagen producing ingredients to penetrate the skin, ensuring an effective anti-ageing benefit.” The Healing Earth High Performance range includes active ingredients such as pentapeptide4 (matrixyl) and v a c c i n i u m macrocarpon (cranberry), to name a few. PB
*Source: Research and Markets (www.researchandmarkets.com/research/ xh3c5x/skin_care)
Professional Beauty September 2016
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Preparing your skin for changing seasons By Dr Des Fernandes
We normally emerge from winter with lower levels of vitamin D in our skin and our body (unless we have been taking adequate supplements such as Vitamin A&D from the Environ Pharma range). Vitamin A levels in our blood drop in winter time, making the skin poorer in vitamin A because we can only normally get vitamin A into the skin by supplying it through the blood.
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ur natural ceramides are also lower; we even have different ceramides from those that normally help us to hydrate our skin in summer. Therefore the skin is much drier in winter, a condition that persists into early spring. By the end of winter our skin is generally much more sensitive to light because it is always lighter at the end of winter. Therefore we have to do as much as we naturally can to build up the protective power of the skin to prepare for the harsh effects of summer. We advise the continued use of Environ vitamin A moisturisers, and protection with Environ RAD sunscreen. Our skin normally depends very largely on four important vitamins to protect it – vitamins A, C, E and D. As we go into spring, the serum levels of vitamin A start to rise and they will become maximal by summer. With the beginning of spring, we see more UV-A light that generates more free radicals in our skin. Therefore we need more vitamin E and C, which are
Vitamin E topically also has the advantage of making the skin feel more moisturised.
major antioxidants for the skin, which we may support with the addition of Environ Pharma Complete AntiOxidant supplements. Vitamin D also protects us from UV-A damage but unfortunately gets destroyed in the process, so we need good amounts of vitamin D to replace the vitamin D that is destroyed by UV-A light. Experts suggest that we can safely boost the levels of these important vitamins by consuming them and applying them to our skin. Raising the levels of the cellular stores of vitamin A in the skin early in springtime ensures the skin will be more resistant to sun damage. Research workers in Geneva showed that the storage form of vitamin A (retinyl palmitate) is a powerful sunscreen. In the stronger vitamin A creams e.g. Original Ultra / Ionzyme C-Quence Serums available from trained Environ doctors and therapists, we can have the equivalent of SPF 20 protection, despite there being no sunscreen in those creams. High vitamin A stores in skin cells are also known to be associated with a reduced risk of pigment problems, while moisturising factors (hyaluronic acid and ceramides) are improved.
What can we do to optimise our skin and body for spring? Eat vitamin A rich foods (not possible for vegans); also have tomato soup often to build up the natural compounds that protect the skin from UV light. One needs to slowly ‘climb the vitamin A ladder’ with the Original / Ionzyme moisturisers, in order to get to high levels. For sensitive skin I suggest the Vitamin A & D supplement as well as the Basic Antioxidant and/ or the Complete Antioxidant. I also recommend these supplements to everyone to keep their skin as safe as we know how. By additionally drinking green tea you will also make your skin safer. Optimal protection comes from drinking Rooibos or Honeybush tea to ensure absorption of an optimum amount of polyphenols that have been shown to be powerful antioxidants and protectors of your telomeres. With this knowledge of what is happening to your skin you become more empowered to look after your precious asset and tone it up for the rigorous challenges of summer. PB
Dr Des Fernandes is a world renowned aesthetic surgeon and founder of Environ Professional Skin Care which is found in more than 70 countries worldwide. He was a pioneer in the use of vitamin A in skin care formulations. If you would like to pose a question to Dr Des Fernandes, please email the editor on joanna@probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty September 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
hair removal - machines
62
‘Hairy’ expressions The era of permanent hair reduction is well and truly here, with a variety of salons and medical aesthetic clinics now offering hair removal treatments using aesthetic devices.
A
s an integrated solution, the Soprano ICE Platinum clearly demonstrates ‘the power of three’ with its trio of combined laser wavelengths that cover the optimal treatment spectrum (e.g. Nd:YAG, Diode and Alexandrite). Says Nicola Steenkamp of Soprano distributor, Best Lasers: “The Soprano ICE Platinum, a limited edition platform from Alma Lasers, achieves excellent results by combining three laser wavelengths into a single handpiece
Professional Beauty September 2016
“Soprano ICE won the award for Best Hair Removal Platform for 2015 in The Aesthetic Guide’s industry awards,” she comments. “These awards honour those companies which have developed pioneering products and technologies in medical aesthetics. Winners were
to simultaneously target different tissue depths, as well as anatomical structures within the hair follicle. “The absorption and penetration levels of these wavelengths, along with the treatment coverage, comfort and low maintenance of the diode laser, allow the Soprano ICE Platinum to achieve the safest and most comprehensive hair removal treatment available today.” Steenkamp points out that the treatment is virtually painless, has a proven safety record and is suitable for all skin types, even tanned skin.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
hair removal - machines
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Soprano ICE Platinum
chosen by an esteemed panel of judges. Soprano ICE is used by advanced clinics and leading physicians around the world.”
IPL power BTL Exilite offers progressive IPL technology for hair removal. It is positioned as a safe, easy, painless and quick solution to unwanted hair. Says BTL’s Branislav Sucansky: “Exilite can be successfully used on the body or the face. Our latest BTL technology guarantees even energy distribution, thus minimising the risk of skin damage. R
Professional Beauty September 2016
hair removal - machines
64 of skin types,” says Olivier. “The system features two gold-standard wavelengths for laser hair removal, 805nm for all skin types, and 1060nm, the optimal solution for tanned and dark skin types all year round. The advantages of the 805nm wavelength are clinically validated for speed, comfort, safety and efficacy. “Treatment with the LightSheer Infinity is more than 75% faster than the market average. The increased penetration of the 1060nm Nd:YAG laser is the treatment of choice for dark skins, because this wavelength is least absorbed by the melanin pigment in the epidermis.” The portable LightSheer Desire incorporates the ‘Gold standard’ 805nm diode laser which, says Olivier, has been validated in numerous clinical studies and peer-reviewed articles. The system has three handpieces with various spot sizes and features two advanced technologies, namely Vacuum Assisted High-Speed Integrated Technology (HIT) and ChillTip Technology, which provides superior epidermal protection through ChillTip contact cooling. By continuously cooling the skin, pain and discomfort are significantly reduced. As the LightSheer Desire is an upgradeable system, capabilities can be added as the practice grows.
BTL Exilite
“The treatment is effective and time-efficient. Exilite emits pulses of bright light, which are absorbed and converted into heat in the hair follicles, destroying those in the active phase of growth. Multiple treatments are required.” Sucansky notes that the Exilite can be safely used on all skin types (VI to VI).
Diode The Hitech Group has a portfolio of four Diode lasers for laser hair removal, as well as multi-technology platforms from two manufacturers that incorporate IPL and Nd:YAG technology. Says Hitech’s Naomi Olivier: “The demographics of South Africa echo the global trend which shows a greater demand for aesthetic treatment on dark ethnic skin types. As laser hair removal remains the third-most-
Professional Beauty September 2016
LightSheer Infinity
requested aesthetic treatment, the shift in the aesthetic market is towards systems that can treat dark skin types safely, effectively and pain-free. “Laser hair removal was previously contraindicated in patients with dark skin (skin types 4 – 6), however, with advances in the technology of high-end lasers, it is now recognised as a safe and effective method of permanent hair reduction on all clients. Longer wavelengths, conservative fluences, longer pulse durations and appropriate cooling methods are necessary to minimise side effects and maximise efficacy.” According to Olivier, Lumenis has two systems that are both equipped with pain-free Vacuumassist HIT technology. “LightSheer Infinity is the most advanced solution for laser hair removal and treats the broadest range
Lumenis M22 IPL applicator
Also from Lumenis, the M22 multitechnology platform has an IPL handpiece equipped with Optimal Pulse Technology (OPT). The handpiece has seven interchangeable cut-off filters which range from 515nm to 750nm. “With a wavelength spectrum between 515nm and 1200nm, this is R
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hair removal - machines
66 results, with less overall energy than other systems. Treatments are safer and more comfortable – allowing clients to immediately return to their normal daily activities after treatment. It is CE-marked and FDA-approved.” Another IPL, the GSD Ultralite, adopts square pulse and constant current charring technology, which emits constant energy to realise optimum clinical results. “The easy and customised interface makes the Ultralite flexible for individual clinical Ultralite procedure,” continues Landman. “Patented RVC (Real Value Calibration) ensures accurate energy to meet the user's needs. Ultralite makes comfort the first priority as well as delivering maximum treatment efficiency.”
Contact cooling ensures comfortable treatments. The V-Nd:YAG hand piece utilises Viora’s proprietary PCR technology, with single and multiple pulse configurations so that the therapist can tailor each individual patient’s treatment for the most effective and safest results.
Viora Trios
the most advanced IPL system on the market,” comments Olivier. “From the IPL handpiece, a broad spectrum of light is transmitted through a small, smooth, transparent handpiece, which is gently placed over the skin. “Cut-off filters in the handpiece change the wavelength range, allowing it to be optimised for different applications and skin types.”
PCR technology The Viora V-Series is available from Hitech subsidiary Medilase. Viora’s Nd:YAG handpiece with a 1064nm wavelength offers safe and effective treatments for dark skin hair removal. Four different spot sizes (2.4mm, 3.5mm, 5.5mm and 9.5mm) enable a wide variety of options, so the operator can customise treatments for each individual client.
Viora V30
Professional Beauty September 2016
Viora’s Trios portable IPL has a choice of three wavelengths: HR: 5301200nm; SR: 570-1200nm; and AC: 400-1200nm. The system has a large spot size area (7.5cm²), which results in reduced treatment time, increased accuracy and efficacy and less pulses required per treatment. Olivier continues: “The most important advantages of the portable Trios IPL are actual 22J/cm2 of power at skin level for effective treatments and maximum results, and highly accurate programme settings that enable the operator to tailor the best treatment for clients. This is a highly reliable device with an advanced computerised management control to ensure system performance and riskfree treatments.”
Wide choice
sPTF+
Radiant Healthcare offers three IPL devices ideal for hair removal, the first being the eStyle with Motif. Says Radiant Healthcare clinical trainer, Danelle Landman: “This system features today’s most i n - d e m a n d applications, bundled into a single system. eStyle is clinically proven to eStyle-Motif get the best results for a broad range of skin types and hair colours. It features elos Technology, delivering better
Still on the subject of IPLs, Landman says that the sPTF+ system generates a long pulse which enables heat energy to penetrate deeper into the skin to ensure clinical efficacy. “The sPTF+ system is able to achieve excellent results with relative low energy and long heat duration on the skin by a patented Smoothing Monopulse. This is the latest PTF equipment for hair removal. The sPTF+ also brings with it automatic intelligent lamp type recognition, digitised lamps shots management, plus one button for ‘standby’ and ‘ready working’ modes gives the operator a brandnew operating interface.” Lasers suited to hair removal offered by Radiant Healthcare include the Elysion, a 1000W Diode laser
online at www.probeauty.co.za
hair removal - machines
67 that works by using the selective photothermolysis principle, reaching high temperatures which destroy the hair follicle without affecting adjacent tissue. “It has a peak power of up to 10J in 20 milliseconds – designed to work on all areas and all skin types. Cocoon medical has developed and patented ‘crystal freeze’. This is a cooling system for the tip of the handpiece based on the TRT (thermal relaxation time), which is the time necessary to reduce the temperature generated by the light emission on the tissue or structures on which it is working,” comments Landman. She notes that the Elase Diode Laser and RF offer high-frequency, lowenergy treatments that are virtually pain-free, with a shorter treatment time than competitive devices. There is minimal downtime so patients can quickly resume their normal activities. In addition, contact cooling promotes patient comfort, while the Active Dermal Monitoring feature monitors skin impedance.
“The Elase has the largest treatment spot size in the industry, which is ideal for treating large areas,” states Landman.
Electrolysis comeback Tzvia Hermann of The Laser Beautique recently launched the ‘Electrolysis Reinvented’ treatment, which she describes as virtually pain-free, permanent hair removal for all hair and skin types. Says Hermann: “Electrolysis is the only permanent hair removal solution approved by the American FDA to be 100% effective. Many beauty therapists and aesthetic practitioners associate electrolysis with being an archaic and outdated treatment that is painful and leaves many with the orange peel effect. However, with the Apilus machine, the technology has been completely reinvented to be at the forefront of permanent hair removal. Previous electrolysis machines worked with a non-insulated probe that resulted in the current not being isolated to the targeted follicle, which made it
quite painful and left clients with the orange peel effect. However, with the advanced technology of the Apilus, the insulated probe delivers energy directly to each individual follicle and hair, resulting in virtually pain-free permanent hair removal.” Hermann points out that Apilus is suitable for all skin colours, as well as all hair colours, whether pigmented or not, and is ideal for stubborn hair. “Because the Apilus is able to offer precision permanent hair removal, you can even offer permanent brow shaping.”
Apilus electrolysis
The Laser Beautique is the exclusive distributor of the Apilus Machine in South Africa. PB
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hair news
69
Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.
Doctor’s orders
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The South African developed and trademarked Afri-Oil from My Abby Range is made with 100% natural ingredients and Abyssinian oil, renowned for high amounts of naturally-occurring essential fatty acids. Afri-Oil prevents the breakage, damage and irritation commonly experienced when using braids, weaves and relaxers.
Nilotiqa Detangling Hair Cream uses Panthenol, which is a naturallyoccurring material that has a smooth film that provides excellent slip between adjacent strands of hair. The deep moisturising and detangling properties make it easy to get knots out while minimising breakage and restoring hair volume.
The Doctor range from Inoar Professional is a treatment system that hydrates, nourishes and reconstructs hair that has been damaged by straighteners, harmful agents, colouring and chemical treatments. Suitable for all hair types, it comprises a multifunctional shampoo and nutrition mask that heals, protects and puts the nutrition back in hair.
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Professional Beauty September 2016
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product focus
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Round-the-clock action An alternative to using separate creams for day and for night, the 24-hour cream can be used in the morning and/or in the evening, and remains effective throughout the day/night cycle, due to slow-release active ingredients.
Techno combo
With triphase homogenised technology, Pevonia’s Marine Collagen Cream uniquely combines extracts from marine collagen, hyaluronic acid, Vitamin E and jonquil oil to immediately smooth fine lines and hydrate ageing skin, while providing a filmogenic effect, perfect as a primer prior to make-up applications. 011 238 7080
Balancing act
Babor’s Vita Balance Argan Nourishing Cream contains hyaluronic acid in two molecular weights to store moisture in the skin, while pomegranate extract stimulates the growth of very fine transcellular water channels (so-called aquaporins), thus improving distribution of water in the skin. 011 467 0110
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At the source
Thalgo’s Source Marine range (including 24H Gel Cream and 24H Cream) is the ultimate hydrating skincare range for all ages and skin types. Infused with lumisource, hyaluronic acid and Sève Bleue des Oceans, the range draws from dermal water and creates a well of vital water for up to 24 hours for total hydration and radiance. 011 880 3851/0
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Professional Beauty September 2016
product focus
72 Thirst quencher
The Hydra Original Thirst Relief Melting Cream from Phytomer is a 24-hour cream that delivers intense and lasting hydration for visibly plumped, and radiant skin. Enriched with weaving algae to combat dehydration, and glasswort oil with its thirst-quenching effect, it reinforces the skin's water reservoir. 011 486 4904
Vital solution
Fresh cream
Anesi’s Crème Aqua Vital is a cosmeceutical cream that provides intensive hydration in three dimensions, satiating the skin’s thirst from the skin cells within to the surface layers. Its formula includes 3D Hydra APS and Celldetox complex that strengthen the cellular detoxification process for a radiant glow.
Nuxe Crème Fraiche de Beauté is a luxurious, dry skin moisturiser day cream with plant milks and white blossom that hydrates the skin for 24 hours. It restores the skin's natural water reserves. In addition, it soothes and reduces discomfort, leaving skin fresh, supple and plumped. 021 701 2900
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nails
76
Maintaining and retaining staff
With staff turnover a big issue faced by many nail salons today, Sonette van Rensburg looks at the different areas you need to focus on to make sure you retain your staff and keep them happy.
I
t just seems all too easy for staff to up and leave a salon and move on to the next one. This is a very frustrating problem as you then need to go through the entire process of employing someone all over again. It can also sometimes be a bad reflection on the salon, which can really harm your business.
Happy staff are focused, positive, dedicated, loyal and work hard. If your staff are happy they will automatically create a positive environment.
Professional Beauty September 2016
sure you assess the skill level of each of your staff to know and understand what they are capable of and then up skill them where necessary. If they know what they are doing they will perform their services and work with more confidence and diligence. Have regular training workshops or training days to teach your staff about new products and innovations. Encourage buddy training by pairing your staff up with one another – a more experienced nail tech with a less experienced or new nail tech. Being responsible and guiding someone will give a staff member self-worth if they know that you are entrusting them to act as a mentor. Staff can also learn from one another.
Staff leave salons for various different reasons and it can’t always be helped. However, remember that happy staff are focused, positive, dedicated, loyal and work hard. If your staff are happy they will automatically create a positive environment, one that will attract clients and will make them happy too. Why are salons experiencing a high staff turnover and what can you as a salon owner do to prevent this?
Training You can’t expect your staff to perform if they don’t know what to do or what is expected of them. Therefore training is imperative, not only to learn the set protocols, policies and procedures of your salon (as each salon will have its own specific ones) but also to learn new and more advanced skills. Make
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Salary
Other incentives
Pay your staff what they are worth as fair pay = fair play. Your staff should be paid according to their level of skill and expertise; if they feel they are not receiving what they are worth, they will not perform the way you expect them to. Over and above this offer them a commission and an incentive and rewards programme to work towards achieving their goals. Offering them growth, benefits, incentives and rewards will go a long way. Your staff will be more motivated and will strive to want to do better for their career, especially if they feel there is an opportunity to grow, earn some additional money and that they will be rewarded for their efforts. Assist them to set goals, and then help them plan how they can achieve these goals in a set time frame, making sure they are realistic and achievable.
These could be in the form of product, cash, vouchers, or even an outing. You could offer your salon team retail stock at a discount or lower price than what your clients would pay, or you could also offer them a free product if they sell a certain amount of retail. However, change the incentives and rewards on a regular basis to keep staff motivated. Find out what it is they would like to achieve and work towards. It’s no use offering them incentives that are of no use to them. Also, make sure they receive their rewards, don’t make promises you can’t keep as this will only make them disheartened and not want to make the effort.
Teamwork Sharing is caring they say! Have regular meetings with your staff to share not only the bad but the good too. Make sure you have an agenda and that the content of your
Have regular meetings with your staff to share not only the bad but the good too.
meetings consists of various different topics; discussing issues which may have occurred with clients or between staff. Ensure the discussions are dealt with in a positive manner and that any issues between staff are mediated to solve staff conflicts. Let everyone get involved in discussing their experiences. Have brainstorming sessions, share thoughts and ideas about promotions, events and ways to attract business and clients. Reward and acknowledge staff that have achieved something as this will encourage others to do the same. Go on a team outing and make sure everyone can attend, let them have fun and participate in team building exercises. This helps to build relationships and to get to know one another.
Looking great Keep your staff looking great – this is important for the clients’ perception of the salon because they are an example of your business and should portray that on every level, not only in the treatments they perform but in the way they look and present themselves. No one wants to have their nails done by someone with uncared for nails, hands and feet or that looks untidy. We can tell someone constantly that they need to make sure they are neat, tidy, clean, smell good, wear makeup, wear clean well ironed uniforms etc. but some may not know how to achieve this. Part of looking good is to feel good too, so have a pamper day or style session with your staff and invite a make-up artist, hairdresser or stylist to show them how. Let them have services and treatments done at no charge, let them do services on one another on that day, that way they also get to practise their skills. Collaborate with a spa and take them on a spa day, or offer this as an incentive for outstanding achievement. The bottom line is to keep your team feeling positive, motivated, valued and looking good. This will result in staff that are happy and dedicated to working for you. Maintain them and you will retain them. PB
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 27 years. She trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. Email: sonettevr@gmail.com
Professional Beauty September 2016
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treatment review - labia remodelling
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Rejuvenation down under
Vivienne van der Spuy experiences the non-invasive BTL Intima labia remodelling treatment from BTL Aesthetics.
B
eing in my early forties and having given birth to three children, I felt I was a prime candidate for the BTL labia remodelling
treatment. BTL Medical SA’s sales director, Nicolette Wepener, who performed my treatment, explained that the Intima works on monopolar RF (radiofrequency) technology, which has long been known as an effective means of tightening facial skin nonsurgically. “Labia remodelling is a relatively new application for monopolar RF,” explained Wepener. “In terms of the BTL Intima, we conducted a study with 22 subjects who had mild to moderate hypertrophy of the labia minora. The subjects received four treatments, at one-week intervals. All study patients showed improvement in appearance of labia minor and majora, with skin laxity in the area significantly improved. In addition, the Intima treatment can result in improved self-confidence and sexual satisfaction.” Prior to my first treatment, Wepener took a ‘before’ photo, which I could compare with the post treatment photo that would be taken after my session. As she powered up the BTL Intima, Wepener told me that the device can
reach a temperature on the skin’s surface of around 40 to 42 degrees centigrade. Once the treatment was in progress I felt a warming sensation in the area. Wepener pointed out that the BTL Intima has an embedded safety system to prevent burns, sparking and arcing. It uses the proprietary Energy Flow Control Safety System, which includes visual contact confirmation should the applicator lose contact with the skin. The Intima’s Impedance Intelligence system guarantees energy uniformity. Said Wepener: “The hand piece delivers thermal energy to the tissue without causing any pain or irritation. This focused thermal energy disrupts collagen fibres and the natural healing process evokes fibroblasts to produce new collagen fibres. As a result, Intima assists with improving collagen composition, elasticity, blood supply, physiological secretions and sensitivity in the area.” My treatment was short – only 12 minutes in total, with six minutes per side. Even after a single treatment I could see a vast improvement in skin laxity and the shape of the vulva. I can honestly say that I was very impressed with this treatment and look forward to even better results after my second and third treatments. PB
Professional Beauty September 2016
The focused thermal energy disrupts collagen fibres and the natural healing process evokes fibroblasts to produce new collagen fibres.
Contact BTL Aesthetics SA Tel: 071 609 0322
online at www.probeauty.co.za
medical aesthetics
81
s t c a f r e l Fil Karen Ellithorne asks some of South Africa’s well-known medical aesthetic practitioners how they go about selecting the right dermal filler product for their practice.
T
here is a superabundance of fillers currently available in South Africa, and each product claims superior long-lasting results, but with varying price tags. One has to question how a doctor selects the best product for his/her clientele and if there are specific criteria which the product needs to fulfil with regards to safety and efficacy.
Dr Melanie Lambrechts – The Centre of Wellness No clinical aesthetic practice can function on one filler type alone. Each dermal filler has its own c h a ra c t e r i s t i c s and strengths. Having said this, I believe in gaining experience with many types of fillers to see what gives you the best result. Then, find your favourite and use it
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prolifically. I always keep a small range of other fillers for patients with slightly more specific needs. I use both hyaluronic acid dermal fillers, as well as collagen bio-stimulators. On a purely sensory level, fillers have different degrees of hardness and softness, which can affect where you decide to use them. For example, I will use only the softest, most malleable filler under and around the eye area, which leaves no ‘Tindell effect’ (puckering). For forehead filling with a cannula, I would need something just as pliable, but with more volumising potential to get the effect I need. When it comes to midface volumising, the finesse required to choose a filler based on a required outcome takes on a whole new meaning, as so many options abound. There is an interesting new category of fillers that are also collagen bio-stimulators. They work on the principle of initially volumising with a cellulose gel that reabsorbs relatively fast, but the actual effect
comes from collagen-stimulating biospheres that cause collagen to grow over time. These fillers require training and a new understanding on how to best use them, but promise to have long-lasting and natural results if used appropriately.
Dr Natalie Cordeiro – Laserderm I do not believe a practitioner can choose a single particular filler to suit one’s practice. When I choose a product (filler), I decide based upon the suitability to the patient and, more specifically, the area and indication of the treatment. An example of this would be using a volumising product in the mid-cheek region: I would use different products on 35-year-old and 60-year-old patients. R
Professional Beauty September 2016
medical aesthetics
82 Dr Alek Nikolic – Aesthetic Facial Enhancement
When choosing the best product for a particular treatment I look at both the clinical evidence and practicality aspects of the filler. • Clinical studies/evidence of safety and effectiveness, specifically how long the filler has been used, known complications and areas of indication. • Characteristics will include the percentage of hyaluronic acid, and if it is cross-linked or not. • In practise, I consider ease of injecting, for example 2ml syringes vs 1ml, and whether it contains lidocaine and mould ability. • Side effects: some products are more volatile and known to cause more swelling than others. • Tissue integration. • Longevity. With these characteristics in mind I believe one will easily be able to use one’s best clinical judgement as to the best product for the indication.
The biggest priority for me is patient safety, so when I select or use a dermal filler on a patient, I always consider the following: • FDA approval. • Is the filler reversible? This is a number one priority for me because if a complication develops, the treatment for the complication is simplified if it can be removed without surgical intervention. • Quality of syringe, as this caters for treatment comfort for the injector and, ultimately, for the patient. • The addition of lidocaine to the filler as this improves patient comfort. • The longevity of the company that manufactures the product; a long history implies greater support and feedback with filler training, use, side effects and complications. • The research and development that has gone into the filler and the number of studies done with the dermal filler. This gives insight into the filler’s application, indications and side effect profile. • Complication and side effect profile of the filler; this allows an insight into what to expect in your own practice. • Price of the product (cheap is usually not a good sign). • Duration of effect – this allows one to give accurate information to one’s patients.
Professional Beauty September 2016
• Number of independent studies performed; it is important to get an ‘unbiased view’ of the efficacy, duration, side effect profile and effectiveness of the filler. • Training associated with the filler’s use (improves treatment results). • Who are the trainers used? Look at their CVs; a trainer who is well respected internationally as opposed to someone who trains for multiple companies. • Who else uses the filler in their own clinical practice?
Dr Cobus van Niekerk – Wellness Aesthetics If we look at the different types of fillers in the South African market there are quite a few similarities between many of the products a v a i l a b l e . However, each one has a ‘patented’ cross-linking technology, which is their trade secret and what the manufacturers hope will differentiate their filler from any another. My advice when selecting a brand of filler for your practice would be to consider the following: • Affordability (not only for you, but also for your patients); • Safe (low risk of side-effects and complications); • Painless to inject (lidocaine), topical anaesthesia, blocks etc.; • Hypoallergenic;
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medical aesthetics
83 • Long-lasting (most fillers now have longevity of more than nine months); • Consistent and predictable results; • Natural ‘feel’ under the skin; • Takes little time to inject; • Be ready-to-use; • Result in no/little downtime for the patient; • Reversibility (hyaluronic fillers can be reversed by injecting hyaluronidase (Hyalase); • Good, continuous training and anti-septic techniques used by the doctors injecting.
Dr Gerhard van Niekerk – Eternal Youth Medical Aesthetic Clinic Paramount importance for me is patient safety, proper training and knowledge of the product and injection technique/s, as well as the understanding of facial dimensions and vectors. When one considers doing contouring, profiling and lifting, I will definitely consider a biostimulator as first choice, or a high viscous hyaluronic acid product as second choice. For volumising, wrinkle reduction and depressions, hyaluronic acid fillers are my product of choice. When selecting a product, I always look at cohesivity, elasticity and viscosity. The ultimate product will have a good filling effect, smooth tissue
integration (without destroying normal tissue infrastructure) and a long-lasting result. This ensures patient satisfaction and loyalty. Furthermore, the physical comfort of the syringe in your hand as well as needle fitment not only make injection easier, but smooth, aesthetic and pleasing results are achieved without the patient ‘looking filled’. It is important to select internationally approved products with either FDA and/or CE certification from renowned companies, as these products will have scientific proof of safety and efficacy.
Dr Debbie Norval As an aesthetic p r a c t i t i o n e r, I need to be k n ow l e d g e a b l e about the different dermal fillers on the market and offer a good selection to my patients. Every patient has unique needs, so there is no ‘one-sizefits-all’ filler that suits all patients. I decide on the best dermal filler for the individual patient based on the patient’s concerns and preferences, their genetic features and ageing process.
There are three categories of dermal fillers: volumising fillers consist of hyaluronic acid are the most well-known. These are temporary fillers and simply replace lost volume in the tissues. Then there are the biostimulating fillers, which replace lost volume as well as stimulate the production of collagen. Biostimulators last longer than HA fillers. Lastly, there are the permanent fillers, of which the only one I use is autologous microfat grafting. Small amounts of a patient’s own fat are transplanted from one area, such as the stomach area, and injected into the areas needing volume. I always decide, together with the patient, on the most appropriate dermal filler for the specific indication. A thorough knowledge of anatomy and facial danger zones is essential, as well as an understanding of the correct techniques and depth of injection for each type of filler used. I use both sharp needles and blunt cannulas interchangeably, depending on the area I am treating. I respect my patients’ Godgiven features and simply aim to refresh, rejuvenate and restore. PB
With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Convention for the past eight years. E-mail: Karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
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Professional Beauty September 2016
product news
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In the market Our round-up of newly launched products. Full lips
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QMS Medicosmetics has relaunched Pearltouch with a brand new look and new airless dispensers, which provide the optimal protection for Pearltouch’s deeply moisturising ingredients. Pearltouch is highly effective in many QMS facial treatments and Pearltouch Duo is now be available in the combined set of 30ml and 10ml sizes. 0860 01 80 22
Pevonia’s LipRenew is a lipofiller that works instantly, increasing the amount of triglycerides stored in your adipocytes, creating lip volume and smoothing lips, while visibly reducing wrinkles and lines. Featuring natural lipofillers, LipRenew contains a power-pout blend of marine collagen, hyaluronic acid, sesame seed extract. 011 238 7080
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Summer loving
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Touch of pearl
John van G has released new summer colours for its range of professional make-up. The ‘Romantic Summer’ eyeshadow collection includes Soft Rose, Antique White, Taupe Light Summer Blue and Pastel Green. Peachrose Blusher will provide that perfect summer glow, while lipsticks come in colour variations ranging from Rose to Coral Red. 011 238 7080
Professional Beauty September 2016
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LIMITED PROMOTIONS AVAILABLE visit us at stand
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In
product news
Fourth dimension
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86 Re-set 4D is a cell-regenerating peptide eye and lip complex balm with a 4-dimensional effect. This product combats puffiness and dark circles. The addition of active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, leave the skin hydrated, smooth and supple. 011 238 7080
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The Italian job
Cipria Milano is a professional cosmetics brand made in Italy, which features a range of high quality creations such as make-up, hair treatments, skincare and fragrances. Products include Eyeshadow Solo, Keratin Reconstruction Vials, Lipstick and Mascara. Hundreds of colours and textures are available, for infinite combinations and nuances. 011 326 7719
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Immediate action
Instant Effects is a stylish yet scientific brand with effectiveness at its core. It consists of Instant Lip, Instant Eye Lift and Instant Lash. These three products have been formulated using ingredients with proven technology that deliver truly significant visible results within minutes. 082 495 1481
Professional Beauty September 2016
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business tips
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Special offer on multiple bookings Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: alex@probeauty.co.za
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Professional Beauty September 2016
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SAAHSP Cape Committee and CHOC Charity Auction Dinner
J
oanne Cohen, Chairlady of SAAHSP Cape and her committee, were delighted with the outcome of the Auction Dinner held in benefit of the Childhood Cancer Foundation South Africa (CHOC) at the African Pride Crystal Towers Hotel and Spa on 27 July. The Master of Cermonies for this formal event was chef and food stylist, Clement Pedro, from the Afternoon Expresso Show. All the sponsored auction items were auctioned off by Stef Olivier from Stef Olivier Charity Auctions. The charity of choice, CHOC, was established in 1979 as a support group for parents of children with cancer, by parents of children with cancer. Having experienced the immense emotional and financial toll that cancer takes, they recognised that there is more
Elna Hagen (SAAHSP Vice President) and Joanne Cohen (Cape Chairlady) with guests at the CHOC event.
emotional and practical support. A total of R22,700 was donated toward this worthy cause and the committee is looking forward to making a difference next year again.
than one victim in the family of the child with cancer. Their aim is to ease the burden on parents facing the same journey by providing access to relevant and accurate information, as well as
Kleine selected as Chief Expert for Abu Dhabi Worldskills Competition Joining SAAHSP as a Professional Member or Corporate Member is as easy as 1-2-3.
SAAHSP President, Menna Kleine, is the Worldskills South African National Expert for Beauty Therapy. Kleine was recently informed that the Beauty Therapy Experts – from 28 participating countries – have selected her to be the Chief Expert at the Abu Dhabi Worldskills Competition, which will be take place in October 2017. For more information about the Worldskills Competition please log on to https://www.worldskills.org/about/ members/south-africa/
Professional Beauty September 2016
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