Probeauty June 2016

June 2016

www.probeauty.co.za

Platform

power

Follicle

flurry

Social media marketing

Hair restoration treatments

Drought!

Relief for dehydrated skin

Striptease Peeling treatments

stockingup Managing stock levels

put back what

CITY LIFE

takes out

Too much noise, too much traffic, too many people, life going too fast. When you’re stressed, your skin gets irritated.

Environ combines the vitamin A your skin needs every day with other essential nutrients like antioxidants and peptides to help protect and nourish your skin, keeping it looking and feeling beautiful and resilient. This is your skin reborn beautiful.

www.environskincare.com

EnvironSkinCare

EnvironSkinCare

@Environ_Global

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24

47

In this issue...

Regulars

Salon Focus

5 Industry news

24 A story of evolution

Local and international news

55 Hair news

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

62 Product news

All the latest launches

Salon Aesthete in the spotlight

Spa Focus 27 Wellness in the spa

A holistic approach

12 Ask the experts

Nails

All your questions answered

15 Insider

Tracking the industry with stats

17 The do’s and don’ts of selling

How to sell your spa or salon

The Spa at Marion on Nicol

59 Fall into winter with the latest nail trends

Autumn/winter trends

Medical Aesthetics

18 Kick-start your marketing

56 Managing FPHL

Necessary strategies

58 Creating the illusion of hair

Scalp micropigmentation

23 Upfront expertise

Hydrating facials

36 Winter takes its toll

Treating dehydrated skin

42 Striking oil

Oils as found in massage and body treatments

47 The big peel reveal

Combining micro-needling with chemical peeling

48 What lies beneath

Latest peel technologies

52 Sensitive to the touch

Product focus on peeling after care

Hair restoration options

20 Taking stock How to manage your stock levels

33 Treatment reviews

30 A new beginning

Business

Features

The ‘don’t ask, tell’ philosophy

56 32

30

Welcome

A

t the time of going to press there was a definite chill in the air, signifying the onset of winter. This is a bumper time of year for salons and spas to offer hydrating facial and body treatments for clients affected by drab and dehydrated winter skin, as well as retailing super-moisturising products. As you will see in this issue, there is a huge range of high quality products to choose from in this regard.

Winter is of course also the perfect time for salons and medical aesthetics clinics to offer peels for clients. Peeling has become a hugely popular way of rejuvenating the skin and of treating acne scarring.

Our special feature includes an article about the newest trend in the peels domain – that of combining micro-needling and peeling in one treatment.

It seems like an impossible conundrum – how do salon and spa owners and/or managers accurately work out how much stock to order to cover all their treatments and to keep on their shelves for retail purposes? We provide some insightful answers in this issue.

We also include an ‘Ask the Experts’ article straight from an advertising agency’s mouth on how to know which of the many social media platforms in the cybersphere are best suited to marketing salons and spas.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Subscribe 9 issues for R475 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

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011 781 5970

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083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

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phil@probeauty.co.za

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

011 781 5970

joanna@probeauty.co.za

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ursula@probeauty.co.za

Marketing and Operations Debra Rheeders 011 781 5970 Sales Manager Alexandra Norvall

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Professional Beauty June 2016

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industry news

5

News All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

Calling all advanced skincare therapists!

The Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, which runs at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand, will host the Advanced Therapist & Medical Aesthetic Seminars Programme on 28 and 29 August.

D

elegates will have five, highly topical and informative seminar sessions to choose from over the two-day event, with each session lasting one and a half hours.

Says programme director, Karen Ellithorne: “Due to the fact that our industry has evolved so much over the years, we felt it necessary to offer booster sessions targeted specifically at therapists who want to expand their knowledge and broaden their horizons. By attending these sessions,

delegates will be able to keep abreast of new technologies and industry trends.”

Seminar topics include a panel discussion on the importance of skincare therapists and the role they play in a medical aesthetic practice, both from the doctor’s and therapist’s perspectives. This session will include a legal expert who will provide information on the legislation around therapists and doctors working together and on the issue of responsibility.

Laserderm launches flagship branch

Other topics include the role of accurate skin analysis in remedial skincare; skin analysis diagnostic tools; recognising skin lesions; Chinese facial diagnosis; anti-ageing medication; stress management, anti-ageing medication and ageing as a disease.

Delegates will also learn about peptides, probiotic skincare, cupping, the return of the electrologist, micropigmentation and tattoo removal.

For further information, visit www.probeauty.co.za

News in pictures

Laserderm’s Dr David Presbury, Dr Leane Louw and Dr Noori Moti-Joosub

On 17 April medical aesthetics clinic Lazerderm formally launched its flagship branch, in Illovo Johannesburg.

This new centralised branch is the amalgamation of three Lazerderm branches, namely Morningside, Inanda and Dunkeld. It boasts 17 treatment rooms as well as a team of experienced doctors and highly trained therapists.

Treatments offered at Laserderm

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Illovo include: Coolsculpting (fat freezing); Thermage CPT (skin tightening); Liposonix (fat reduction); anti-wrinkle injections and dermal fillers; laser hair removal (Alexandrite & Nd:YAG); Fraxel (skin resurfacing); CO2 skin resurfacing; Ulthera (nonsurgical skin lifting); Carboxy Therapy, Vampire (PRP) facials and chemical peels, among many others.

Symmetry World’s Mimmie Lancaster and Professional Beauty commercial director, Phil Woods, presented at the Professional Beauty Network Breakfast on 25 April in Johannesburg. Lancaster spoke about retaining staff, while Woods focused on the Allied Health Professional Council of South Africa’s moves to make ‘nontherapeutic’ massage, aromatherapy and reflexology part of its register.

Professional Beauty June 2016

industry news

6

Amani turns 10

News in brief

On April 6 the Amani Spas Group celebrated its 10th birthday.

A

mani founder Ronleigh Gordon, who owns 80% of the shares of the group, opened the first-ever Amani Spa at Ivory Tree Game Lodge in the Pilanesberg Game Reserve in 2006.

Today Amani Spas comprises 15 units – three city spas, five lodge spas, four airport lounge spas and three franchises – and employs over 100 individuals.

To mark its 10th anniversary the group ran a spa special for all guests during April. Each Amani team celebrated in its own manner and shared pics on social media.

Says Amani Spas chief operating officer, Francisco Garcia: “This milestone means so much to us, especially because it was achieved whilst trading in recessionary

times and a very tough economic environment.

“Amani has managed to grow its portfolio from one to 15 units in 10 years, due to its clear business direction and creating the perfect wellness solution to each of the properties’ needs.”

Garcia notes that Amani is very proud of its community development work, a core value in the company, especially due to the fact that, in several of the spa units, the group trades in ‘not so privileged’ environments.

Sales workshop at Spa Convention The International Spa Convention, which runs on 28 and 29 August at Gallagher Convention Centre alongside the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, will include a dedicated sales workshop run by Venetia Butler.

Known as one of the country’s best trainers in sales leadership and management, Butler is currently the director of training at SALESGURU. Her clients include Nashua, Old Mutual, Sasfin, VW, Toyota, Lexmark, Oracle, FNB, Liberty and Momentum

Butler’s sales workshop will cover the following topics: The power of a purpose bigger than your comfort zones; What you should never forget; What do winners do that most want; Who is your true competitor and why it matters; Leaving the cult of mediocrity; You don’t leave footprints in the sand by sitting down; Why sales is personal and so are your results; Don’t play the game, change it; The power of ‘say my name’; and Walking with giants – what this looks like for your business and yourself.

A new ‘Best’ appointment Best Lasers has appointed a new sales representative – Julia Broom.

“We are very proud of Julia’s hard work thus far,” says the company’s CEO, Andrew Best, “and we are looking forward to walking into a bright future together with her.”

Professional Beauty June 2016

■ New packaging for Esse: South Africa’s only certified organic skincare brand, Esse, has revamped its packaging in support of its growing export activities to ‘sit proudly on the shelves of the world’s finest outlets’.

■ Bodyography opens Concept Store: Professional make-up brand Bodyography Cosmetics launched its first Concept Store in South Africa in April, at the Cresta Shopping Centre in Johannesburg. Customers are able to have makeovers in a boutique environment with access to the full product range.

■ Sorbet SEW campaign latest: South African beauty group Sorbet brought out limited edition SEW Mom Bracelets for Mother’s Day (8 May). SEW is a Sorbet and Relate Enterprise Development initiative that raises funds in support of economic social responsibility campaigns across Africa.

■ DermaFix sponsors Mrs SA Pageant: DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care is sponsoring Amorica Miller, a DermaFix representative, who has made it into the top 100 contestants in the Mrs South Africa Pageant.

DermaFix is one of the Silver sponsors for the event.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

2016 Your chance to recognise and reward your favourite supplier The aim of these awards is for salon owners, spa managers and therapists to nominate their favourite suppliers.

We will then create a short list and you can then vote for your top supplier. The one who gives you the best service or products.

The Professional Beauty Industry Awards allow your suppliers to be rewarded by you, their very important clients. These awards will help suppliers get closer to their customers by receiving feedback on their service.

Nominate your favourite supplier: • Best Supplier – Skin Care • Best Supplier – Nails • Best Supplier – Equipment/Supplies • Best Marketing • Best Training • Best Sales Rep

NOMINATE YOUR FAVOURITE SUPPLIER NOW! Visit

www.probeauty.co.za and click on the ‘Awards’ tab.

The winners will be announced at the Professional Beauty Gala Dinner on 28 August 2016

industry news

9

New developments at Laser Beautique In addition to now offering the ClearLift non-surgical facelift, as well as the Electrolysis Reinvented treatment, at its Morningside branch, The Laser Beautique franchise has undergone a brand revamp with a new logo.

O

ther recent developments include the creation of a gift registry, targeted at expats who want to send their relatives and friends to The Laser Beautique for treatments. A loyalty programme – ‘Beauty Counts’ – has also been implemented.

In addition, The Laser Beautique has created a ‘Beautiquetionary’, which outlines the clinic’s beauty belief – that our skin is the largest organ on the body and it protects everything underneath.

Says The Laser Beautique owner, Tzvia Hermann: “The first Laser Beautique opened at the end of 2009 in Morningside, and this remains our flagship branch. We recently revamped our clinics at Bedfordview, Woodlands and Fairmount. The look of the clinics

is now more masculine as we wanted a unisex type of environment so as to attract more male clients.”

Another two franchises are to open shortly, in the Johannesburg and Centurion areas.

“We get franchise enquiries on a daily basis,” continues Hermann. “All of our current franchisees are exclients of ours,” comments Hermann.

Commenting on the ClearLift facial treatment from Alma Lasers, Hermann describes it as ‘Hollywood’s best kept secret’. “This is a non-ablative laser treatment so there is no downtime. It is also good for pigmentation.”

News in pictures

Claudeen Krause of Mesoestetic performed an Acnelan peel to launch this new treatment for acne prone and seborrhoeic skin, at an event held for salon owners at Johannesburg’s Michelangelo Hotel on 10 May. Acnelan contains Mesoestetic’s trademarked m.acne complex.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

As for the Electrolysis Reinvented treatment, Hermann says she uses the Apilus device from Canadian company Dectro.

“This speedy, pain-free and sophisticated device can treat individual hairs, as well as blonde and grey hairs. I’ve invested in this amazing technology so much that we are opening up a Dectro Academy this September to offer training,” concludes Hermann.

The Laser Beautique Group won the 2015 award for Aesthetic Clinic of the Year at the Professional Beauty Awards.

Cupping in action

Dr Katya Tsvyetkova of homeopathic aromatherapy brand, Lilian Terry International (LTI), recently provided training on cupping therapy and LTI products for salon and spa owners in the Western Cape and KwaZulu Natal.

Training took place at the Arabella Spa, the Zimbali Hotel and Spa Natal.

“The training sessions were a case of ‘full house’ – we could not accommodate any more guests,” says LTI MD, Derek Terry. “It seems that the demand for South African products is growing as the high cost of importing products from overseas is a big factor.”

Professional Beauty June 2016

industry news

10

Medinova in ‘Harmony’ Sandton-based aesthetician centre, Medinova, is believed to be the first brand in Africa to own the Harmony Pro XL from Alma Lasers.

Dr Milena Popovic

T

his treatment is used for permanent hair reduction and can successfully treat black skin without causing hyperpigmentation and other ailments.

Says Medinova founder and owner, Dr Milena Popovic: “I am always on the lookout for the latest technology which can be incorporated into our

various treatments. Over the years I’ve found that cutting edge technology in the beauty industry is always evolving and centres like Medinova have to stay abreast of these advancements. This particular laser is an ideal platform for Medinova to expand its product offering to discerning clients, whose skin is easily distressed by techniques

Vitaderm’s new micro-needling device Skincare brand Vitaderm recently launched its Collagen Induction Treatment, incorporating an automated microneedling pen system.

Says Vitaderm’s Belinda Wesson: “The advantage of the pen over the roller is that the treatment depth can be altered according to the area worked on. Hard to reach areas such as below the eyes, as well as the upper lip area, are also easily treated with the pen.

“Another benefit is the hygiene aspect, since fully disposable needle cartridges are used for each and every treatment.”

According to Wesson, the Vitaderm pen is surprisingly affordable due to direct importation.

New ‘Fast and Furious’ moves

“Complimentary practical and theoretical training is available, she says, “as are supporting professional products such as the Hyaluronic Acid Gliding Gel. Individual needle cartridges are also well priced.

“Outstanding results are achieved with a cumulative effect being seen after three months.”

Professional Beauty June 2016

that invade the skin by needle, tube or scope.

“I had experienced the Alma Lasers technology during a trip to Holland last fall and the results were not only instant but long lasting for my sensitive skin. As a result, I decided it was something that I had to offer to my loyal client base.”

Marlien Fourie has joined Fast and Furious Waxing Academy.

During April Fourie spent time at the company’s Northcliff branch to complete her Fast and Furious training. As from May, Fourie has been working between the Pretoria and Johannesburg’s branches.

Meanwhile, Fast and Furious owner, Adele Mans, has been spending time in Cape Town to plan for the opening of a new branch in that city, as well as a training academy.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

ask the experts

12

Ask the experts Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

What are the most suitable social media platforms for promoting my salon and how do they differ from each other?

T

he most popular platforms in South Africa are Facebook, YouTube, Twitter, Instagram and LinkedIn, with Snapchat being used by early adopters.

There are two platforms I would recommend when I scroll my eye past the word ‘beauty’ – Facebook and Instagram. Both thrive on visual content – videos, GIFs, and photos – but have very different attributes.

Let’s start off with the king of them all – Facebook. This is the most obvious and biggest platform in South Africa, with 13 million subscribers (10 million of which are logging on via mobile devices).

Facebook has evolved through the years from a small student portal into a major social media platform that individuals and businesses have capitalised on.

Mark Zuckerberg soon saw an opportunity here, too: just as in TV and radio, advertisers have to pay for space on Facebook, so he started decreasing organic reach (unpaid distribution) of brand pages in an effort to ensure that money is put behind the content to be seen by its target market.

Of the 50% of females that are on Facebook in South Africa, the majority that are interested in beauty are age 18-34 (72%), followed by age 35-64 (24%). The biggest female age group currently active on the platform is 25-34. This tells us that, with a bit of advertising budget, and some innovative copywriters, you can break through the crowd and catch your target market’s attention. With R1000, you should be able to grow your fan size by at least 500 fans.

Quick tips: Humour, short videos, GIFs, and beautiful imagery do really well on Facebook. There is no need for hashtags but I would suggest a strong call to action. Posting every second day has also become best practice for brands. Facebook is great if you are looking to build a strong community.

Now for the fastest-growing platform in South Africa – Instagram.

With over 3.2 million followers, and a growth of over 65% year on year, Instagram is the perfect platform to showcase not only your own rich, visual and authentic content, but also that of your customers.

Instagram is the kind of platform where you snap a pic, choose a breath-

Professional Beauty June 2016

taking filter and upload there and then.

Instagram allows you to reach out to anyone, and influencers and content are endless. Advertising on Instagram in South Africa is very cost-efficient.

(The current cost per engagement is around R0.23 - R0.30), and you’re able to link people straight to your website, blog or Facebook page.

Quick tips: The use of hashtags really helps your content go further, as anyone with that same interest is likely to see your content and double tap it. Post daily to keep your fans in the know, otherwise your fan base may decline.

Beauty salons can keeping their customers up to date with a gallery of their work, as well as the latest deals. Ensure that you keep it fresh, innovative and enticing and you’ll have a successful profile in no time!

Britt Adami is an online and digital expert based in Cape Town, South Africa. Her passion lies with social media and growing a brand’s online presence.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

ask the experts

13

How do I go about performing massage treatments on clients who are suffering from cancer?

T

hree categories accurately represent the definition of an oncology client: the client is either in active cancer treatment or recent recovery, or is in long-term survivorship, or is in a place where cure is not the objective, but quality of life the goal.

Specialised treatment protocols for clients with cancer or cancer treatment histories can include protocols for lymphedema or risk thereof, nausea, and fatigue.

Oncology clients will also welcome symptomatic relief from alopecia and neuropathy, a type of nerve damage.

Skincare treatments can calm and sooth, hydrate and replenish, repair and strengthen the skin. All this (and it feels good too) which, at a time when touch is frequently a painful or uncomfortable experience, can be very nurturing for the recipient.

Although skincare treatment and massage modifications are clearly required for the person in active cancer treatment and recent recovery, it is the longterm side effects of treatment that are most often overlooked and underestimated. These are often more acutely felt than the effects of cancer itself, and frequently it is the side effects of cancer treatments that create more treatment guidelines and working boundaries

for the therapist, both in the shortand long-term, than the actual effects of the disease. Long-term medications, bone integrity, vital organ involvement, effects on skin and tissue from surgery or radiation, and considerations pertaining to lymph nodes affected during cancer treatment should always be at the forefront of the therapist’s mind.

In particular, many oncology clients have had lymph nodes compromised during diagnostic procedures, surgery or radiation.

The client with, or at risk of, lymphedema, will forever require therapist modifications, during facial and massage treatments.

Therapists should look for accredited training through reputable organisations such as ISOE (International Society for Oncology Estheticians) and S4OM (Society for Oncology Massage).

At the very least, foundation training for skincare and massage therapists working with oncology clients should include an understanding of how cancer starts and spreads, primary clinical considerations and their required modifications, cancer treatments and their side effects, and product considerations.

Additionally, supervised experience working with oncology clients and/or an internship for extended

hands-on experience is highly recommended.

Oncology massage skincare is an advanced field of study and therapists need working experience with a non-medically sensitive client population, and post-graduate oncology-specific training to prepare them to understand, and work safely with, the unique and changing needs of oncology clients. PB Johnnette du Rand, a cofounder of Greet The Day, is an oncology massage and skincare therapist and educator in hospital, hospice and spa settings. She is a board member for the International Society of Oncology Estheticians, and charter member for the Society of Oncology Massage. Email jdurand@greettheday.org

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty June 2016

business trends

15

Insider

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in April 2016.

The month in numbers Insider Spa

Spas fared very well in terms of treatment business during April 2016, with one destination spa reporting an influx of foreign guests, while other spas successfully upsold and upgraded their treatments. Although some spas had less guests than last April, there was a higher average spend per guest this time round.

Retail sales were also up, with spa guests more willing to spend on themselves. Several spas emphasised the importance of training from brand houses, which boosts the confidence of therapists in recommending products to guests.

As for added value, one spa group has a signature welcome touch and farewell ritual for all its treatments. Other spas add touches during treatments, such as hot bean bags and booties, or applying a refreshing gel to the back after a massage on tension areas.

We asked spas what colleges need to do to better prepare students for work and the general consensus was to equip them with home care recommendation skills.

AVERAGE TREATMENT Other suggestions were time ROOM management training and teaching OCCUPANCY students the reality of the beauty industry – that it requires very hard work and long hours. A useful suggestion was work-integrated learning with actual spa experience, and strict monitoring by schools of experiential hours. PB

59%

80

% BETTER

3

% SAME

17

% WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN APRIL 2016 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2015?

77

% BETTER

5

% SAME

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN APRIL 2016 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2015?

online at www.probeauty.co.za

18

% WORSE

Insider Salon

Salons did not have a great AVERAGE April as the majority reported TREATMENT a drop in business as ROOM compared to the same time OCCUPANCY last year. School holidays coupled with public holidays played a big part in the downward trend. Retail sales told much the same story, with one salon owner saying that she’d found the last few months ‘extremely tough’.

Other salons noted a definite trend among clients to cut back on spend, due to the recession and cited the rising price of products as a big problem.

In terms of added value strategies, one salon adds value wherever possible – foot massage, manicures, pedicures and specialised masks. Other salons offer specials on a monthly basis, or might add a massage to treatments on special occasions like Mother’s Day. Most salon owners believe that students should be taught retail skills. Other issues are that students leaving college are not taught to handle difficult clients and that there is not enough mentoring for students from specialised skin clinics. PB

60%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN APRIL 2016 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2015?

33

% BETTER

0

% SAME

67

% WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN APRIL 2016 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2015?

31

% BETTER

3

% SAME

66

% WORSE

Professional Beauty June 2016

CIDESCO Ireland would like to invite you to the World Congress in Dublin to celebrate

70 years of CIDESCO Thursday 22nd of September 2016 to the 26th of September 2016 The list of speakers include doctors, entrepreneurs, a plastic surgeon, skin care manufacturers and so much more.

Well-known names such as Ian Fuhr and Des Fernandez are included in this superb line-up of speakers.

Please visit the website at www.cidescoireland2016.com for more information.

CIDESCO Ireland has also organised a series of social events that will be a great addition to your visit, including a gala dinner and a night out at a traditional Irish pub, singing and dancing and good times.

Email cidescoireland2016@advantagepco.ie

website: www.cidescoireland2016.com

business tips

17

The do’s and don’ts of selling You’ve made the decision to sell your spa or salon…. that’s the easy part. Now, you have to put in the hard work as you want to sell with integrity, have a satisfied buyer, and you want to make money, writes Debbie Merdjan.

T

he first rule is to plan ahead and think the sale through. It could take months to prepare figures, reports and analysis. Any smart buyer will carefully examine a business for sale, and, unless they see the likelihood of an excellent return on their investment, they will not buy.

Prepare your spa for the sale by enhancing it to the best of your ability and you will achieve your price. But be realistic; we know you love your business, but buyers are not interested in your feelings.

They only want success. So, divorce yourself from your emotions, and objectively consider the buyers’ point of view. Know what your business is worth and make your price realistic.

Identify assets Physical assets include your equipment and treatment plinths, as well as stock on hand. Your fixed assets (written down) depreciate from the date of purchase. Identifying both types of assets gives you a realistic value of both at the time of sale. Bear in mind that some assets have to be revalued above their depreciated values.

Look at your intangible assets. This is not easy as it includes your client list, key personnel, logo, trademarks and good will. What is good will? It’s

online at www.probeauty.co.za

your reputation, your brand and the relationship you’ve built up with your clients. Request the interested buyer to sign a non-disclosure document to secure confidentiality.

Financial reports A serious buyer will want to see three to five years’ worth of financial reports.

You need to be able to present your financials honestly and openly. Work with an accountant and get your paperwork in order and your financials up to date.

Setting a price will depend on how profitable your business is and the value of your assets. The profitability of the business is measured by the PE (Price Earnings) ratio, which varies from industry to industry and may be higher (to your advantage) at the time of sale if it can be shown that the prospects of the business are bright.

You’ll need copies of all documentation – leases, capital equipment, accounts receivable and payable, stock on hand, tax returns and more. You will also need a written description of the business with a current marketing plan and projections for the future.

A seller’s document is an excellent tool. It tells the story of your business, current and prospective clients, marketing, and financial highlights, prospects for growth and information on competition. Keep it short, neatly typed, grammatically correct and enticing. Content and quality must be good.

Maintain your employees’ loyalty and respect by involving them and sharing your plans.

Selling is a complex process and there are no short cuts. It is important to enlist professional help where needed, in the form of a broker, accountant and/or attorney.

Obtaining help and doing it professionally is the winning formula for a successful sale. PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

Professional Beauty June 2016

business tips

18

Kick-start your marketing Just the thought of starting to market your salon is daunting.

You know it’s important, as the market is very competitive, and you know that it is a necessity to grow your business, but the question is how? Ayesha Rajah provides some insight.

T

he first step in marketing your salon is to set aside some time. This is easier said than done. I’m sure the phrase - ‘there are never enough hours in a day’ – sounds familiar. But if you want to attract new clients and increase turnover, then marketing is key; it therefore makes sense to give it the importance it deserves. So choose a quiet day, like a Monday, and dedicate two hours a week to focus on getting your name out there.

The brutal truth Self-evaluation is never easy; however, it is absolutely necessary if your marketing is to be successful.

How good are you? It’s great if your marketing is working and you are getting 30 new clients in a month, but if only two of these are retained, then what a waste of time and money!

A mystery guest can give constructive feedback on how to make changes to your salon before you embark on a huge campaign.

Marketing calendar Winter is always the best time to start planning your marketing strategy as you will have less time when the busier summer months approach.

Draw up a calendar for the next six months, not just for monthly specials but be target-specific. How about running a Facebook competition for Women’s Day, or inviting a blogger to your salon in September, or dedicating October to revamping your website?

Clean up Take out all your current marketing materials – from business cards to monthly promotions to brochures to price lists. Check for consistency in colours, fonts and imagery.

Make sure that your social media sites have the same look and feel and that you have your address on your Facebook site and Google map location, as well as co-ordinates on your website.

Social media If this is not your forté, rather hand it over to one of your tech-savvy

Professional Beauty June 2016

team members. However, I suggest you write up a few guidelines on how you want to be represented.

Better still – approve every post prior to it going live to ensure there is consistency in the message and branding.

Don’t let it overwhelm you! Being on every platform is not a necessity.

My personal opinion is that Facebook and Twitter work well for our industry. If you do great makeup, nails, or have effective resultsbased treatments, than remember that ‘a picture speaks a thousand words’, so Pinterest or Instagram might be more effective.

Take your marketing strategy one step at a time so that you don’t strain your time and cash flow resources. PB Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and Skin Doctors.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

20

Taking

stock

stocking your t u o ab o g u yo o d wner, how As a salon or spa o auren Gibson.

L s te ri w , d e at lic p n’t com shelves? It really is

T

here is a vicious circle associated with stock on retail shelves and in professional treatment rooms.

How many units of each product should you stock and when is it a cost to your business?

To a business owner, stock is cash sitting on a shelf not moving and not generating income for the company. But to a consumer, not having the correct stock levels on shelves could indicate that there is a cashflow problem in the business, or that stock is old, or that consumers are not purchasing from you. Whatever the reason it could sway consumers to go elsewhere.

Think of when you go grocery shopping – would you buy that last banana sitting on its own in a massive crate? Or would you rather go and pick up bananas from a full crate that is bright and yellow?

Incorrect stock levels in the professional treatment room could indicate that you are skimping on the treatment and the results

expected by clients. These days consumers want added value and the best results, so stock is not an area you ever want to skimp on. Always ensure you have the full professional stockholding to offer customisable results for the treatments on your menu.

The following basic tips with regards to stock management should be shared with your entire team (therapists and managers) to ensure that everyone works to the same policy.

Tracking trends in your business An important analysis tool that a lot of business owners forget to do (or choose not to do) is tracking which units sell and which don’t.

By understanding the trends in your clients’ purchasing patterns, you will be able to know straightaway which products you should stock more of, and which should be kept to single units.

While it is great to focus on what you are purchasing from your suppliers, you also need to measure sell out (i.e. what you are selling

Professional Beauty June 2016

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business tips

21 to your consumers), as this allows a deeper understanding of the trends in your business.

Furthermore, be aware of events you may be holding at your salon/spa, seasonal changes and industry focuses, as this could alter purchasing patterns, the amount of stock on shelf and orders. Keeping a record of this will be important for your company’s history and year-on-year comparisons.

Stock minimums and buffer stock By working with minimum stock levels (based on trends), you will be able to watch your cashflow and budget for your orders.

There are many different methods of doing this – you can build a simple Excel spreadsheet that acts like a replenishment report and tells you when you need to order and how many units of each product are required.

Or, you can have markers on your shelf. Once the marker becomes visible – it’s time to top up those shelves!

that it matches your stock on hand, the receiving of stock and the sale of stock. Accurate records make your reporting much easier and you can understand the ebb and flow of your business.

Maintain a FIFO (first in, first out) When stock arrives in your business ensure that new stock is placed at the back of the line and older stock in the front. This is critical, especially with products that expire, and will help you mitigate losing money by throwing expired products away, which is an unnecessary cost.

Put a therapist in charge of running this aspect of the business and rely on your brand representatives to check expiry dates for you.

Where’s the money, honey?

If you understand which products make the best margins and generate the best revenue, you need to ensure these items are a focus in your display area and that they are fully stocked. Otherwise you will lose those sales to another business.

Work with suppliers

These are critical, so don’t be lazy. Understanding the amount of stock you have on hand will help you to plan cashflow and orders.

Ideally, stocktakes should be done every week (most businesses do this on a Monday morning) and then orders can be placed off that stocktake.

If you work with a system ensure

Your suppliers are there to help you. Ensure you are aware of your supplier lead times, delivery charges and promotions. If a supplier takes four days to deliver stock then ensure you have enough stock on the shelves to last until then.

Should your supplier give you a number of free deliveries in the month, ensure you work to those deliveries so that this doesn’t become an extra cost to your business. And embrace the promotions – if you were going to order anyway you may as well get a few extra units to benefit from the freebies and offer this value to your consumers.

Understanding stock doesn’t have to be difficult. Yes, it may take some time to put in place and require a bit of admin every week or month, but it could help you save rands and cents and allow you to work more effectively.

If you are still feeling uncertain, chat to an expert in the industry, or your brand representative, so they can offer you some assistance. PB

Lauren Gibson has worked for Dermalogica for nearly four years. She has been an educator, sales brand consultant, and, more recently, the regional manager for Cape Town. Her passion lies in upskilling people, seeing the potential in businesses and unlocking that potential and constantly learning to reignite her love for the industry.

E-mail: laureng@dermalogica.co.za

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Photo: Tim Gerge s

Stock counts

Professional Beauty June 2016

22

A DATE FOR YOUR AUGUST DIARY Exclusively for your beauty, hair and spa business The must attend event for your profession

JOHANNESBURG

28 & 29 AUGUST 2016

Register now for your free ticket: www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

23

Upfront expertise Perhaps it’s time we started telling, rather than asking, our clients which treatments and products they need, suggests Hellen Ward.

T

he late Steve Jobs famously said that people don’t know what they want until you give it to them. As the man who pioneered a revolution in technology, the Apple co-founder learned from his early focus groups with gadgets such as the iPod that people’s perception of a concept (one dial, no separate controls) can change the minute they see it for real.

This got me thinking about the possibility of creating a new, more strategic approach to our prescriptive and bespoke beauty services.

Sometimes, as therapists and experts, we pussyfoot around in the consultation, waiting for the client to raise their (obvious) concerns before we do, for fear of causing offence. Is this how other experts would behave?

Would a brain surgeon look at a scan and ask the patient to point out a tumour before they did? A client recently told me that she’d be very happy for a therapist to cut the ‘fluff’ and tell her what was wrong with

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her skin, rather than fishing around asking delicate questions. A direct, authoritative approach is sometimes just what people need.

Be specific I for one follow this school of thought.

I’d far rather be told that someone can do something about my dark circles, fine lines and split ends than spend 40 minutes with them asking probing questions to get me to list the issues. We have a saying in the salon – ‘act like the expert you are’.

Our salon manager and spa director continually encourage their teams to advise, prescribe and diagnose without prompting, and to ensure the client knows we have solutions to their concerns.

This ‘don’t ask, tell’ philosophy needs a subtle approach, of course, so as not to offend clients’ sensibilities. But this approach does pay dividends in increasing our professionalism and expertise and we know now, more than ever, that customers will pay for the expertise.

Going back to the surgeon analogy, nobody is just a surgeon. They might be an orthopaedic surgeon or a brain surgeon, but they’re never just a surgeon, and, if they were, who on earth would want to see them? This approach to diagnosis takes that ethos of expertise to another level, but we need to keep differentiating, because the beauty industry is a different animal these days. The customer, and the way they use our services, has changed. The price they pay us for certain services has been severely impacted too.

Changing customer perception with upfront expertise and diagnoses might just be the way forward for all of us. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.

Professional Beauty June 2016

salon focus

24

From left: Jeanette Maseko, Lerato Shilaloke, Monique Denovan and Mavis Mashathini

A story of evolution Situated in Illovo, Johannesburg, Salon Aesthete has a history that dates back to the early 1990s. Since those days much has changed, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

W

hen Salon Aesthete originally opened over 20 years ago, it was in Oxford Manor in Illovo. A few years later the salon moved to the adjacent Thrupps Centre on Oxford Road.

Monique Denovan, a somatologist with 23 years of experience, began managing the salon in 1997 and took ownership in 2000.

“Salon Aesthete started off as a traditional beauty salon, which offered mainly manicures, pedicures, waxing, facials and massages,” says Denovan. “In the last eight years we felt the need to expand our menu to offer more specialised treatments, as we found that clients were asking for better results and we didn’t want to lose them to aesthetic clinics.

“We started by bringing in RégimA to improve pigmentation, scarring and

open pores and have been ecstatic with the range. The Lamprobe machine, together with the Skin Lite and Cryoprobe, were other pieces of equipment that we bought in order

Professional Beauty June 2016

for us to treat skin irregularities that a dermatologist would normally treat, but which medical aid schemes would categorise as a cosmetic procedure. We are able to treat

online at www.probeauty.co.za

salon focus

25 Salon at a glance Owner/manager: Monique Denovan Size: 100 square metres Number of treatment rooms: 5 rooms and dedicated nail area Number of full-time therapists: 4

Denovan tries to instil a sense of professionalism, customer care and friendliness in her team

fibromas, skin tags and capillaries, and can differentiate between a skin lesion being cancerous or just a sun spot.”

Salon Aesthete also offers microneedling to stimulate collagen synthesis, which is vital for anti-ageing.

Investment Denovan notes that she is fortunate to have an investor who placed the Cryo Fat freezing machine in Salon Aesthete three years ago, and, since then, the Laser and Cavitation machines.

She says: “To generate more business for these procedures we advertise on Groupon and have gained clients from elsewhere that we would normally not have had.

“We are also trying to increase our young clientele, so we have a special section on our menu devoted to

online at www.probeauty.co.za

teens and tweens as we would like to encourage them to start looking after their skin and bodies from a young age.”

Denovan notes that to thrive in such tough economic times, Salon Aesthete offers specials on a monthly basis.

Brands One of the skincare brands stocked

by Salon Aesthete is Dermalogica.

“We have many devoted customers who have been using this brand for years. Their head office is within walking distance and their training is awesome.

“RégimA and Environ are products that we can proudly call South African and are very popular amongst our clients.

Brands: Black Pearl, RégimA, Environ, Dermalogica, Gelish, Morgan Taylor, Patricia Clarke and Nuskin

“Black Pearl was the latest addition to our range of products and it has a unique facial routine that involves using a Gravity black mud masque, which is removed with a magnet. The facial and décolleté massage is done using rose quartz stones. It is one of our most luxurious facials and the Black Pearl Collagen Facial is loved by our more mature clients,” comments Denovan.

Salon Aesthete’s nail services include manicures and pedicures, artificial nails and Gelish.

In terms of the salon’s ethos, Denovan tries to instil a sense of professionalism, customer care and friendliness in her team, so as to create a memorable experience for clients. PB

Professional Beauty June 2016

On: 28 & 29 August 2016 at: Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand

2016

SUNDAY 28 AUgUSt 2016

MONDAY 29 AUgUSt 2016

8h30

Registration

9h00

Registration

9h30

Welcome by Mark Moloney

9h30

SALES tRAiNiNg WORKShOP - WALKiNg With giANtS

10h00 KEYNOtE SPEAKER

Venetia Butler

Andrew Gibson

Director of training at SALESGURU (Africa’s leading sales and sales management training company)

VP Spa and Wellness Fairmont Raffles Hotels and Resorts

11h30

11h00

Tea

11h30 – 13h00 Workshop continued

Tea / coffee

13h00 – 14h30 Lunch and exhibition

12h00 StAFF

14h30 CUStOMER SERviCE

Staff Retention programmes

First contact with your business

How to recruit the right team

Customer narrative

Invest in training your team

Attention to detail of the customer treatment

13h00 – 15h00 Lunch and exhibition

Customer feedback: the lost art of connection

15h00 MARKEtiNg

15h30 REvENUE MANAgEMENt

How to put together an advert

Understanding cost of goods and how it impacts your bottom line

Power of copywriting Social Media: How impactful is it and how does it affect your turnover?

Effective booking of treatments and upselling Improve your bottom line or your business will go bottoms up!

Mobile marketing

16h30 Close

16h00 ECO SUStAiNABiLitY Renewal sources

Let’s talk about it...

Carbon neutral ideas

17h30

Tea and Close

BOOK EARLY FOR YOUR 2016 DELEGATE PASS Check the website for online bookings and benefits: www.probeauty.co.za

more info: www.probeauty.co.za

spa focus

27

Wellness in the spa Tapping into the concept of wellness seems to be a global spa and tourism trend these days, but was does ‘wellness’ actually mean?

Marisa Dimitriadis provides some insightful answers.

T

here are many definitions of wellness but my favourite is by dictionary.com, which says that wellness is ‘the quality or state of being healthy in body and mind, especially as the result of deliberate effort’.

Another definition from the same source defines wellness as ‘an approach to healthcare that emphasises preventing illness and prolonging life, as opposed to emphasising treating diseases’.

Both of these definitions relate back directly to the spa and what we should be offering our guests.

Let’s look at a few ideas on how to incorporate wellness in your business and ensure you are meeting the needs of the consumer from a broader holistic approach.

Wellness in destination spa holiday packages Most people who go on holiday do so to relax and spend time with their families, as holiday time is used to de-stress and unwind. So, ensure to offer spa packages that use the words ‘unwind’ and ‘de-stress’

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and phrases like ‘wellness on your holiday’, ‘holiday health and wellness’, etc.

Work with the hotel’s rooms division to offer exclusive leisure guest wellness packages, where treatments and perhaps nature walks, yoga, cycling and even specific wellness meals are offered. Most destination and hotel spas will say they have this available already, however is this package being marketed and offered at reservation level and is the leisure guest met on arrival at the hotel and offered a five-minute unwind welcome neck massage whilst checking in?

The success of wellness in holiday spa packages depends on the point at which they are introduced into the guest’s interaction with the hotel. They need to be incorporated and introduced at booking level and every step of the guest journey and the hotel needs to incorporate wellness ideas.

For example, an idea here is to have an in room bath menu where perhaps two or three different bath oils are offered with therapeutic benefit for specific wellness needs. The guest then orders the R

Professional Beauty June 2016

spa focus

28 bath as if they were ordering some in room dining.

Try, where possible, to take wellness into the guest room by offering yoga or meditation DVDs for the guest to view and use. The turndown bedroom service could incorporate a wellness sleeping tip and perhaps a herbal tea to enhance quality of sleep.

Partner with wellness events Find out about wellness events taking place in your area, such as walking clubs, running clubs, cycling clubs, nutrition talks, golf days, etc. and ensure to add value to the consumers attending and find ways to get them back into your spa. This does not mean giving out freebies, it means looking for ways to engage with the consumer and ensure they return to your spa.

Some ideas here could be applying sunblock to golfers before they start their game, or applying a soothing muscle gel to golfers after their game.

Perhaps in the walking or running clubs, offer each member a free value added treatment with any muscle easing massage booked.

Wellness tip of the month Make it your mission to find one wellness tip every month that you carry through your business. An example for the month of June could be to boost your body for winter with natural immune boosters added to your diet.

Research what those immune boosters are and give every single client a little write-up with this wellness tip of the month.

Then connect the wellness tip with a treatment that also boosts your body in winter, such as a full body exfoliation with a super-hydrating body mask and a destress full body muscle easing massage.

Carry the theme through all marketing channels, such as e-mail banners, website banner, social media posts and ensure all your staff are educating their customers on the tip of the month.

Scholar wellness Don’t forget the scholars, more specifically the teenagers and students who are experiencing stress levels like never before. Have you thought

Have an in room bath menu where perhaps two or three different bath oils are offered with therapeutic benefit for specific wellness needs.

about creating a package for their specific needs, like an exam brain clearing massage, or neck soothing massage which caters towards combatting the stress they feel during exam times.

These treatments need to be marketed to the parents and your team should show them how these massages can improve their scholars’ mind set and physical wellbeing.

Corporate wellness More than ever before is the wording ‘prevention is better than cure’ resonating in the corporate world. Employers are looking for ways to reduce absenteeism due to stress and illness and this is exactly where your spa comes in with the perfect solution.

However, the corporates are not going to run to your doorstep begging you for the answer. You have to approach them and create the need and prove that your spa and services can prevent and maintain healthy minds and bodies.

Wellness for moms Whether pregnant or not, mothers’ minds and bodies take huge strain so find ways to capture their attention with treatment and packages suited to their specific needs. This could be a light leg circulation boosting treatment for pregnant ladies or a time out massage for new moms, or a top to

Professional Beauty June 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

spa focus

29

Wellness add-on menu Create a wellness add-on menu for treatments offered in the spa. This is simple and easy. Every single one of your customers is looking for ways to de-stress and feel better so offer them simple, small add-on items on the treatment menu to enhance the wellness, experience.

Examples of wellness add-ons: ■ 10-minute

stretching added on to massage treatment

■ Specialised

massage oils with therapeutic benefit instead of plain carrier oil

■ Specialised

wax candles or specialised balms for massage

■ Wellness

drinks menu

■ Specific

de-stress music matched to massage

■ De-stress

exfoliation and mask added to back massage

■ Heated ■ Herbal

neck pillow eye pillows

toe ‘just for mom’ type of package, where she is groomed from head to toe and leaves the spa feeling like new.

The ideas are endless and wellness is a reality and very much a part of everyone’s lives in some way or another. Ensure you align your business with helping to improve the quality of your customers’ lives.PB

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@thespaconsultants. co.za for more information.

Professional Beauty June 2016

spa focus

30

A new beginning The spa at the stylish Sandton boutique hotel, The Marion on Nicol, recently underwent a change of ownership and management, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

S

heila Otieno-Osanya is the new sole owner of the recently revamped The Spa at Marion on Nicol, which opened its doors on 1 February this year.

The spa was previously Spa de la Veille. Commenting on what prompted her to take over the spa, Otieno-Osanya says: “I own a spa consulting company, The Spa People, which has been in operation since January 2009. There are quite a few spa consulting companies in South Africa, some of which have created training programmes for spa staff. Others have developed their own skincare and body product ranges. “I decided that my point of difference would be that I would be the only spa consultant who actually owns and operates their own successful spa. This

Professional Beauty June 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

spa focus

31 Spa at a glance Opened: 1 February 2016 Owner: Sheila Otieno-Osanya Size: 134 square metres Number of treatment rooms: 2 couples’ treatment rooms; 1 gazebo suite; manicure & pedicure lounge Hydro facilities: sauna, steam room, hydrotherapy room Number of therapists: spa manager/back up therapist; 3 multi-skilled therapists; 1 nail tech assisted by 3 freelance multi-skilled therapists Brands: QMS Medicosmetics, Babor, OPI, ItalWax, Harnn

would give clients peace of mind when choosing my company for their spa consulting services.

Owning a spa will also help me keep abreast of industry trends. In addition, I will have the opportunity to train and develop spa staff, which is a passion of mine.”

Otieno-Osanya, who has a background in hospitality management, has done a lot of marketing of the spa within The Marion on Nicol Hotel, as well as on the various spa booking websites. She is in the process of approaching corporates based in Sandton and Rosebank, and is quite active on social media as well.

Fresh look She notes that several décor changes were made to the existing spa before it re-opened and that her new team of therapists is experienced and passionate.

“The quality of treatments offered is at a very high standard. We have the know-how to ensure that our guests enjoy a bespoke experience that will melt away the tension from their bodies, rejuvenate their tired and over-worked minds, and restore their spirit,” states Otieno-Osanya.

Results-focused products and treatments that cater to the specific needs of guests were carefully selected.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

According to Otieno-Osanya, the QMS Medicosmetics skincare collection has been designed to effectively treat damaged and ageing skin on the face and body, returning it to a more youthful and healthy state.

“We also offer the Babor range, which is developed using pure, natural plant oils and extracts, resulting in innovative and highly effective skincare products designed to meet a broad range of needs,” she comments.

At the moment the spa offers the standard massages that are found at most spas.

“However, we plan to introduce new specialty massage treatments as we go along. The idea was to start off small and grow as time goes on.

“Currently our main business comes from massages, pedicures, manicures and nail treatments,” concludes Otieno-Osanya. PB

Professional Beauty June 2016

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treatment review – hydrating facial

33

The big skin renewal Cleanse

Plagued by dehydrated, ‘wintery’ skin, Debra Rheeders opts for the Elemis Biotec Radiance Renewal Treatment to rectify the situation.

Ultrasound

W

hen I arrived at the offices of Elemis distributor, The Prestige Cosmetics Group, in Hyde Park, Johannesburg, I was excited to learn that my treatment would include two bio-electrical modalities, namely ultrasound and galvanic.

These are two of the five technologies incorporated into Elemis’ Biotec machine, which can be found in a number of spas in South Africa.

Elemis’ National Training and Development Manager, Samantha Van Hasselt, noted that the best way to treat dehydrated skin is to combine hyaluronic acid and galvanic.

She commenced the treatment by cleansing my eyes with the White Flowers Eye & Lip Make-up Remover, a bi-phasic cleanser that can remove waterproof make-up. She then applied the Pro Collagen Cleansing Balm, a very luxurious cleanser which contains rose and mimosa waxes and nine different essential oils, including lavender.

Van Hasselt went on to explain that in this particular facial, the Biotec machine’s ultrasound modality replaces the exfoliation stage. “The ultrasound applicator has four ceramic plates that vibrate and generate 27000 vibrations

online at www.probeauty.co.za

per second, which cause impurities to dislodge, plus it is also mildly resurfacing. We will set the device to 15% for your face and then reduce it to 5% for around the eyes.”

She applied Soothing Apricot Toner to provide glide for the ultrasound.

After about eight minutes, the ultrasound was turned off and Van Hasselt applied the Lavender Skin Bliss capsules, which she described as a “detox for the face”.

“The capsules contain Moringa Oil, which is very rich in anti-oxidants. I'm also going to use Japanese Camellia Oil on the neck and décolleté. This pro plant collagen source is a great for skin elasticity,” said Van Hasselt.

Following a relaxing neck, shoulders and facial massage came the application of the Radiance Activator, a product comprised of concentrated essential oils containing antioxidants and peptides.

Now it was time for the galvanic phase, which is combined with the application of hyaluronic acid in the form of the Hydro-Active Soothing Gel Mask.

“The Biotec’s galvanic modality is essentially a form of iontophoresis.

So, we will first apply negative current

Galvanic

Amino Active Mask

to propel the active ingredients into the skin, followed by positive current to seal in the ingredients,” she said.

This phase felt amazing, as I could feel the hyaluronic acid from the Hydro-Active Soothing Gel Mask penetrate deeply into my skin.

Next was the Amino Active Mask, with some Pro Collagen Advanced Eye cream applied to the eyes. Van Hasselt performed a head massage during this phase.

To end off the treatment, Van Hasselt applied Pro Collagen Eye Renewal, followed by Pro Radiance Flash Balm, which is used as a serum, and Pro Collagen Marine Cream.

This was a really hydrating facial.

My skin had felt so dry beforehand and it now felt absolutely amazing.PB Contact Elemis: 021 442 7700

Professional Beauty June 2016

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treatment review – hydrating facial

35

A power-filled facial Marina Kopp tries Dermalogica’s brand new IonActive Power Treatment, which launches to the professional market in June.

Pre-cleanse

Face mapping

M

y treatment took place at Dermalogica’s head offices in Illovo, Johannesburg, where training specialist, Ilze Erasmus, explained that the IonActive Power Treatment can be customised for each particular skin condition.

“There are five IonActive treatments – Anti-ageing, Acne, Pigmentation, Hydration and Sensitised Skin,” said Erasmus. “In your case we will focus on the anti-ageing Retinol (1%) treatment.”

She commenced the treatment, noting that Dermalogica always does a double cleanse, starting with Precleanse, an oil-based water soluble cleanser, followed by the Age Smart Skin Resurfacing Cleanser.

“This cleanser contains some lactic acid and not only begins the exfoliation process, but is also quite hydrating,” said Erasmus.

Once my face was clean, Erasmus performed Dermalogica’s renowned Face Mapping skin analysis, where the face is divided up into 14 zones and scrutinised. She noted that my skin was a little dehydrated on my cheeks

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Ion retinol electrical modality

and that I had some signs of pigmentation on my face.

Erasmus then moved onto the Exothermal Gelloid applied with spatula exfoliation phase of the treatment and applied Colloidal Masque Base around the lips and eyes for minute massage, to push any excess hydration. retinol into the skin.

“I’m going to use the Age Smart Next came the Exothermal Gelloid, Multivitamin Power Exfoliation, which applied over the retinol, and left on is an advanced level of exfoliation as for 15 minutes. In the first half of this it contains both retinol and lactic phase, the therapist has to do some acid,” stated Erasmus. sort of heat treatment, like a hot It was left on for three minutes stone massage. In my case Erasmus and I felt a mild tingling sensation performed a European style massage, on my face. To remove the exfoliator, with a friction and kneading action Erasmus used the Precleanse and that generates heat.

Special Cleansing Gel. To complete my treatment, Erasmus My skin was now ready for removed the Exothermal Gelloid the Retinol IonActive phase. Said with hot mitts and spritzed my skin Erasmus: “We recommend that with the Antioxidant Hydramist. She therapists use electrical modalities then applied an eye treatment – the with this phase, to ensure optimum Multivitamin Power Film – followed penetration of the retinol. I’m by the Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50 going to use the bt-micro from Biomoisturiser.

Therapeutc, a low level ultrasound I just loved how my skin looked after and micro-current device, on its the treatment – it was plumped up, ‘Serum’ setting. Therapists could also more hydrated and literally glowed. I use iontophoresis for this phase.” thought it a stunning facial. PB The procedure lasted for three Contact Dermalogica: 011 268 0018 minutes and was followed by a five-

Professional Beauty June 2016

dehydrated skin

36

Winter

takes its toll

Along with the onset of winter comes the battle to keep our skin sufficiently moisturised, as the dry air compromises the skin’s barrier and the use of heaters compounds the situation. Joanna Sterkowicz looks at the many solutions for this uncomfortable skin condition.

B

abor’s Lipid Intense Cream, part of the SkinovagePX Vita Balance range, contains intensively moisturising active ingredients and selected lipids to treat dry, flaky skin that feels unpleasantly tight.

Hyaluronic acid in two molecular weights stores moisture in the skin, while pomegranate extract stimulates the growth of very fine transcellular water channels (so-called aquaporins), thus

Professional Beauty June 2016

improving the distribution of water in the skin. All this is combined with pure, natural oils, alpine stem cells and the active catalyst, Osmo Tec, to keep your skin smooth, soft and supple.

Sea relief Thalgo recently launched its latest innovation to combat dry and sensitive skin for both the face and body. Comprised of microalgae, marine wax and Sève Bleue des Océans, Thalgo Cold Cream Marine efficiently

online at www.probeauty.co.za

cold crEa m marinE Exclusive in novation Dry and sensit ive skin replenishes, soothes and repairs the skin.

A pioneer in marine cosmetics, the Thalgo Laboratory R e p lediscovered has a n is h e s Soo p hy a n kto n m i c ro thto e sp l• R e p a ir s algae oil with a unique F A C Eto-‘bio-accumulate’ ability B O DY lipids. This oil contains a high concentration (up to 30%) of EPA-type Omega-3 fatty acids, the rarest and most complex essential fatty acids for our bodies to synthesise.

The marine-origin EPAs havedemonstrated exceptional affinity with the skin structures, as well as unparalleled bio-assimilation potential.

In addition, soothing marine wax in Cold Cream Marine contains a high concentration of Laminaria Ochroleuca brown macro-algae extract, which helps to reinforce the skin’s natural defences. Sève Bleue des Océans is a remineralising ‘beauty water’ that contains 14 times more Silicium, 12 times more Manganese and eight times more Zinc than traditional sea water.

dehydrated skin

37

“Designed for mature skin, these HA-based formulas from Black Pearl are fortified with LipigenineTM, a rich, innovative moisturising agent that maintains the skin’s natural lipid balance and protects against dryness for a smoother skin effect.”

The anti-ageing action of ChronogenTM is designed to optimise the skin’s natural regenerative cycles for an enhanced anti-ageing effect that supports the skin’s repair mechanisms and reduces signs of ageing.

“A boost of Resveratrol, bursting with natural plant antioxidants that help to fight free radicals, works together with soothing plant oils, vitamins A, E and pro-vitamin B5, pure minerals, and hydrarich squalane, extracted from organic olives, for improved skin flexibility, enhanced moisture balance and naturally youthful luminosity,” says Roberts.

Potent kit Based on the restorative power of hyaluronic acid (HA), Black Pearl’s innovative skincare kit, comprising Hyaluronic Youth Renewal Eye Cream, Hyaluronic Nutritive Facial Serum, and Hyaluronic Restorative Night Cream, offers an effective approach to skin renewal, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for a revived look and silky, smooth feel.

“HA is a vital component of younger looking, beautiful skin,” says Black Pearl South Africa’s Michelle Roberts. “It preserves moisture, enhances skin repair, boosts collagen and elastin, and protects the skin with a natural, supportive barrier against the elements.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Therapeutic care According to Belinda Wesson of Wesson Therapeutics, the Resurfacing Balm and the Squalane Complex are invaluable for protecting dehydrated skin against transepidermal water loss.

“The Wesson Therapeutics Resurfacing Balm is the preferred option for day-time use, since the plant waxes in the formulation offer an invisible shield against the elements,” she continues. “Used at night over the chosen night cream, the Squalane Complex contains a plant-based extract that mimics the skin’s own sebum and increases the skin’s resilience by restoring the equilibrium of moisture and lipids.”

Also from Wesson Therapeutics, the Repair Serum, with hyaluronic acid and aloe vera, offers active hydration while soothing sensitive skin. The Recovery Cream, with its high concentration of aloe and ceramide II, is an ideal moisturiser for sensitive, allergyprone skin. R

Professional Beauty June 2016

dehydrated skin

38 Subtle action Dehydrated skin often revolts against the use of rich treatment creams. Vitaderm believes that the secret to addressing dehydration is to use a light, effective moisturiser with a miniscule amount of Vitaderm’s Enviro-Shield applied over the moisturiser, to prevent loss of moisture.

The brand’s Aromatic Complexes are ideally suited to application over the night cream, whereas the Enviro-Shield is preferable for use during the day, since the plant waxes in the formulation offer unbeatable protection against trans-epidermal water loss.

Revival To revive dry skin Ursula Hunt of DermaFix recommends the multi-functional Vitamin Therapy Masque.

She says: “This is a light, nutrient-rich masque, which can be left on and offers superior hydration by drawing in moisture, while assisting to calm skin sensitivity often associated with a winter skin. The silk-like feel is derived by the inclusion of smart technology Vitamin A, Allantoin, Chamomile, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol and other superior ingredients to give the sensorial feel of lightness, while offering intensive moisturisation.”

Hunt notes that DermaFix Argan Oil is a 100% pure, Ecocert and Natrue certified source of essential fatty acids, a deficiency of which leads to skin dryness.

“Our Argan Oil quickly absorbs into the skin and supplies it with Vitamin A and Vitamin E, both well documented for barrier protective and anti-oxidant properties that neutralise free radicals. This pure oil with the high proportion of Omega-6 Fatty acids promotes the passage of oxygen through cell membranes, which has a regenerative effect on the skin. DermaFix Argan Oil may be used as a moisturiser or alongside an existing moisturiser for an additional moisture boost.”

In an instant The I.N.S.T.A.N.T. mask from pHformula leaves skin noticeably radiant and glowing by gently resurfacing and leaving it smoother, brighter, and softer.

While providing tighter skin texture and tighter pores, the I.N.S.T.A.N.T. mask results in a more youthful appearance and absorbs impurities without removing natural oils. The antioxidant effects of Ferulic Acid

instantly revitalise the skin, as well as lighten and brighten discoloured skin. It also aids the skin’s ability to heal, repair, and protect itself from free radical assault.

Maximum mask Dermalogica’s Skin Hydrating Masque is a refreshing, moisturising masque to remedy dry, stressed skin.

Cross-linked hyaluronic acid traps moisture to deliver time-released hydration for lasting suppleness.

The product helps stimulate the skin’s natural moisturising factor, while lycopene-rich tomato seed lipids help restore skin’s protective barrier, enhancing moisture levels for healthier, smoother skin. It is formulated without artificial fragrances and colours.

The Ultracalming Serum Concentrate from Dermalogica helps calm, restore and defend sensitised skin. Dermalogica’s exclusive UltraCalmingTM Complex contains oat and botanical actives that work below the surface to interrupt inflammatory triggers that lead to sensitisation, while helping to minimise discomfort, burning and itching. It restores the skin’s natural lipid barrier and helps defend against future assaults with Oil of Evening Primrose, Sunflower Seed and Avocado extracts.

Dynamic duo Phytomer’s advanced research has revealed a way to reinforce the skin’s water reservoir with an original duo of marine ingredients – weaving algae to combat dehydration and glasswort oil with its thirst quenching effect.

Hydra Original is a deliciously velvety light R

Professional Beauty June 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

#oftencopiednevermatched

AMPOULE CONCENTRATES FP babor.co.za

BABOR South Africa Telephone: 011 467 0110 • Email: babor.sa@babor.co.za • Website: www.babor.co.za

dehydrated skin

40

textured cream that delivers intense and lasting hydration for comfortable, visibly plumped, and radiant skin.

The Rosee Soin Radiance Replenishing Oil from Phytomer comprises an unprecedented cocktail of beneficial oils such as D-Tox Microalgae Oil (brightening), rose oil (soothing), gorse oil (rehydrating) and jojoba oil (nourishing).

dead skin cells, leaving the skin healthy and radiant. It contains Lemon Extract which stimu­lates collagen synthesis. The Enriched Toner – Dry Skin is an alcohol-free toner formulated with Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder to soothe and heal.

In addition, the Enriched Moisturizing Crème – All Skin Types renews softness of the skin and contains Lanolin.

Also from Beauté Pacifique, the Instant Hydrating Mask recovers lost moisture and contains Retinyl Palmiate, a very stable form of Vitamin A.

Water clinic A true water reservoir, the Hydra Clinic Aquafix Serum MPC30 from Ericson Laboratoire instantly compensates for the skin’s water deficiencies. Its hydrogel formula maintains a maximum level of hydration by binding water in the tissues. The skin is hydratedcontinuously and the tissues are plumped up from within.

This serum leaves the skin feeling fresh and velvety.

Ericson Laboratoire’s Aquajet Fluid AQP-3 bathes the skin in freshness and beneficial hydration. Its fine and dissolvable texture is easily absorbed and quenches the skin in-depth.

Enriching products Danish brand Beauté Pacifique battles dry skin with the Enriched Cleansing Milk, which gently loosens

The plus factor The Super Moisturiser +, part of Environ’s Intensive range which offers targeted skin rescue solutions, is a creamy, soothing moisturiser containing ingredients that rehydrate dry skin, leaving it looking healthy and beautiful.

It is easily absorbed, leaving the skin feeling comfortable hydrated and smooth. This product restores the natural balance of the skin and helps to prevent a tight, dried out feeling, giving the skin a luxurious, silky after feel.

Super Moisturiser + contains a special blend of scientifically researched ingredients such as Revidrate, Pentavitin and pro-vitamin B5, which

Professional Beauty June 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

dehydrated skin

41

have been proven to enhance natural moisturising factors, as well as protect and retain the skin’s moisture levels.

The Focus Hydrating Serum is a highly concentrated hydrating serum containing hyaluronic acid that helps boost hydration levels and creates the appearance of a smoother looking and plumper skin.

Also from Environ, Derma-Lac Lotion is a light, easy to apply lotion that energises dull and tired looking skin as it contains several essential ingredients known for their effective moisturising properties. Skin is left feeling soft and smooth and looking beautifully healthy.

Lipid replacement Lamelle Research Laboratories has developed the Serra Range, an innovative lipid replacement therapy that exactly mimics the structure and function of the natural lipid bi-layer, which is critical in terms of maintaining a healthy epidermis or top-most skin layer.

Says Dr Bradley Wagemaker, medical director, Lamelle Research Laboratories, “Where regular moisturisers create a layer of moisture on the surface of your skin, Serra actually recreates the human skin barrier, essentially replacing what is missing and eliminating the root cause of dry skin.

“Serra causes a permanent change in your skin’s behaviour and is not simply a temporary ‘band aid’ to a dry skin problem that still remains after you have washed off your regular moisturiser.” PB

Professional Beauty June 2016

oils

42

Striking

oil

Oils, whether they be massage oils or ingredients found in professional products used for nourishing and moisturising body treatments, are an integral part of the spa and/or salon offering, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

T

he Mio Fit Skin for Life and Mama Mio Pregnancy Expert products are high in omega oils from the purest sources, such as almond oil, argan oil, safflower seed oil, jojoba and calendula oil.

“Omega oils are known for their regenerating and healing properties when applied to the skin. They are essential fatty acids and needed to feed and nourish the skin for optimal function. They also have anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing and nourishing properties,” say the experts at Mio, noting that their products are free from parabens, petrolatum, mineral oil, synthetic fragrances, artificial colorants, sodium laureth, lauryl sulphate or glycols.

Mio has its own trademark blend of essential oils known as V-Tonic (a stimulating blend of essential oils that have an affinity for tired muscles) and Gravida (a blend of 10 pregnancy specific essential oils).

.Holistic combinationThe Homeopathic Aromatherapy range from Lilian Terry International (LTI) combines homeopathic remedies, essential oils and carrier oils that are pre-blended, resulting in pure energy healing complexes which, when used through massage or reflexology, enable almost immediate penetration through the skin and mucous membranes to activate the cell receptors.

“Our Homeopathic Aromatherapy

complexes ensure powerful results through high levels of cellular detoxification, improved blood circulation and lymph drainage and the supply of oxygen to the tissue. In addition, the LTI complexes have no emotional or physical burn-out, as it is a self-regulating therapy whereby the energy level of the client and the therapist remains the same, while the homeopathic ingredients decrease the possibility of an allergic reaction to essential oils,” comments Lilian Terry International’s general manager, Carli Argirova.

.Eyes shutSparitual Close Your Eyes Body Oil Egyptian Geranium contains several certified organic oils, including Egyptian geranium essential oil, safflower seed oil, olive fruit oil and jojoba seed oil.

This combination of oils helps to ease stress, anxiety and tension and has conditioning, moisturising and hydrating properties. It gently penetrates skin to relieve tightness and discomfort.

.WatermelonThe Rooibos & Honey Hand & Body Balm from the Milk Solutions Garden Range contains grape seed oil and watermelon seed oil. Tests have confirmed that this product is safe for use on sensitive skins.

“Watermelon seed oil has emollient properties, making it a wonderful moisturiser for both oily and dry skin,” says Milk Solutions founder,

Professional Beauty June 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

oils

43 Karen Ellithorne. “Furthermore it has superb antioxidant capacity as it does not go rancid, even after years. This demonstrates its superb antioxidant capacity. “The application of this oil on the skin generates an anti-ageing action by providing direct nutrition to skin and protecting it from free radicals. It is also detoxifying and anti-inflammatory.�

.Energetic productBabor Spa Energising Lime Mandarin Invigorating Massage & Bath Oil arouses all the senses and includes stem cell extracts from the champagne pear to protect the skin against the stresses of the environment and from seasonal changes.

This massage and bath oil in one cares for the skin with almond, sunflower, macadamia nut and rice germ oils, leaving the skin nourished, supple and soft as it is instantly absorbed.

.Seductive oilThe Goddess Dry Oil from Purles is a nourishing product designed for both body and face. It comprises a synergy of three oils (jojoba, apricot kernel and sweet almond) to ensure amazing results immediately after application. Skin is left radiant, nourished and smoothed.

Caviar extract, rich in vitamins, microelements and amino acids, delays the ageing process. The product is absorbed quickly, leaving no oily film on the skin. PB

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peeling

47

The big peel reveal It has become very popular in the medical setting to combine micro-needling with a chemical peel in one treatment, writes Sonette Donker.

T

he combination of microneedling and chemical peeling in a single treatment is called the ‘Pixel-Peel’ and was created by Barcelona-based Dr Philippe Deprez, founder of Skin Tech and my ultimate hero.

Dr Deprez cleansed the skin, needled it and immediately applied a TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid) peel to the freshly needled skin. His formula contained a 15% TCA with Lidocaine used as a numbing agent so that the patient would not feel a thing. Dr Deprez applied two layers of the peel.

Since Dr Deprez’s demonstration, the combination of micro-needling followed by a TCA application has become very popular. I personally like to do this combination in my clinic on the arms, chest or legs.

The skin here is thicker and often has been damaged by excessive sun exposure. I get really great results after four to six treatments. However, I have not yet tried this on the face, and do recommend a course of treatments, alternating the chemical peeling with micro-needling.

I would normally recommend this

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intensive course of treatments for acne scars, severe photo-ageing and hyperpigmentation.

TCA is a common peeling agent that comes in a variety of strengths, from 5% to 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% etc. It has many benefits, being non-toxic, stable, easy to use and with the ability to create a variety of results.

TCA penetrates the papillary dermis, or the upper reticular dermis, when a full frost is achieved. The frost is the result of the chemical TCA coagulating the protein in the skin (like frying an egg). TCA is easy to use and provides a predictable medium-depth peel.

It is mostly used in the medical setting, but there are a few salon brands that provide the therapist with TCA solutions.

Beyond the face

Chemical peels are no longer just focused to treat the face. In the medical setting we include the neck, chest, back, arms, hands, feet, legs and even the eye areas. Any area of skin that has damage which the patient wants treated. In my experience I have found that TCA

works best on the chest, hands, feet, arms, legs and the eyes.

According to Dr Deprez, the delicate eye lids respond best to TCA peels and less well to Glycolic Acid.

He says for some reason this skin just doesn’t respond well to Glycolic Acid. I have done a few TCA eye peels with great results, especially if the eye area is very wrinkled, with dull skin.

The principles that are to be taken into consideration before peeling the skin are: the skin condition, skin type (Fitzpatrick photo types), the ageing factor, and the client’s general health. This helps the therapist in selecting the proper candidates for peel treatments, as well as the appropriate solution or product for optimum results. PB Sonette Donker is the owner of Skin iD and an internationally qualified professional skincare therapist. She has 20 years of experience, having worked for Dermalogica, Nimue Skin International, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies and pHformula.

Professional Beauty June 2016

peeling

Pic: Environ Cool Peel

48

What lies beneath Peels are proving to be a very popular service at salons and aesthetics clinics as they can improve the quality, texture and tone of skin. But they are only to be performed with extreme care by certified skincare professionals so as to avoid any side-effects, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

T

he chemical peel is one of the most honest skincare treatments around in that it does not hide behind a fancy name, says Dr Bradley Wagemaker, medical director of Lamelle Research Laboratories.

“Chemical peeling is exactly what it says – a chemical solution that harnesses your body’s natural processes of renewal, which can largely be summed up as discarding old skin cells to make space for new ones. In other words, it causes the skin to peel so that new skin can grow in its place.

“The idea of peeling away small amounts of skin might sound scary initially, but chemical peels are one of the most common treatments for correcting skin and achieving visible results – especially in winter, when skin needs a bit of a lift – simply because they have proven so very

effective in rectifying damage and renewing skin.

“Different chemical types have their own properties, but generally, chemical peel acids penetrate the skin and break the bonds between the layers of skin, so the top layers will start peeling off. The type of peel, its concentration, and the exact chemical composition will determine how deep it penetrates (and thus how deep the peel is),” explains Wagemaker.

He notes that glycolic acid peels are one of the mildest and most popular peel types, largely because glycolic acid is a natural substance found in sugar cane that is part of the fruit acid family – also called AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid).

“Lactic acid, an AHA, is not exactly a peel per se: it’s actually a powerful chemical exfoliator, while salicylic acid is a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) peel and is a bit stronger and

Professional Beauty June 2016

penetrates a little deeper into the skin for more dramatic results.

“Retinoic acid is very closely related chemically to Vitamin A, and is widely used in medicine to regulate cell growth. It is a slightly deeper peel than BHA peels, but has the added benefit of really boosting new tissue growth and is often used in conjunction with BHA peels.

TCA (trichloroacetic acid) peels are stronger and give much deeper penetration, with more noticeable results,” comments Wagemaker.

Marine intelligence MCEUTIC from Thalgo, a brand known for its pioneering marine intelligence, provides the first professional cosmeceutical products inspired by the medical world with the patented ingredients, Marine Mesolift and Neo-Skin.

The range, Renovation Radicale, is the first MCEUTIC corrective

online at www.probeauty.co.za

peeling

Pic: MCeutic

49

solution which targets the causes of blemishes and irregularities that are resistant to conventional cosmetics, to restore the skin’s health and smoothness.

Marine Mesolift’s bio-regenerative infusion boosts cell metabolism and preserves the skin’s youthfulness by mimicking an ‘injection’ type effect.

Alongside this, Neo-Skin combines Buchu Leaf, Brown Macroalgae and Green Microalgae to extract and correct severe blemishes and deep irregularities to restore perfect skin balance and optimal skin quality.

Dermatologist examinations of Renovation Radicale have confirmed the following results: reduction in surface irregularities; clearer and brighter complexion; reduction in marks and scars; tighter pores; and finer skin texture.

The benefits of an MCeutic facial include little to no downtime, which allows for the perfect lunchtime peel solution. There are three strengths of peel to choose from, depending on the severity of the skin condition.

Ten plus ten Doctor Babor’s Refine Cellular AHA 10+10 Peeling Gel is positioned as the next generation of fruit acid peels.

The ultimate Efolimax formula combines 10% precisely coordinated fruit acids with 10% of the most effective antioxidants.

This synergistic combination of intensive exfoliation and

online at www.probeauty.co.za

effective protection allows new skin to emerge faster, and protects it against premature aging. Clients can look more radiant and revitalised after just one application.

Below the surface

The BioSurface Peel is a powerful skin resurfacing system from Dermalogica that helps reduce acne, pigmentation and signs of premature ageing to reveal smoother, brighter and softer skin. It is designed to work with the skin’s chemistry, not against it, and removes the dull outer layers of skin and helps the skin underneath to regenerate.

In general, the BioSurface Peel can be tailored to address skin roughness; signs of photodamage; fine lines and wrinkles; acne breakouts; skin congestion; and some forms of hyperpigmentation and unbalanced skin tone.

A really ‘cool’ peel Developed by the world renowned plastic surgeon, Dr Desmond Fernandes, the Cool Peel system is bound to assist to reveal a radiant skin, says Environ education manager, Qanita Jacobs.

“The Environ Cool Peel system is unique in its formulation because as the water molecules evaporate, it will leave the skin feeling cool, unlike conventional peels,” continues Jacobs. “This system is easy and safe to use and may be tailored to suit different skins and photo types, with no downtime. It is preferable to offer milder peels more frequently and a series of light peels minimises the destruction of the epidermis.”

She notes that a course of peels could assist with improving the texture of the skin and combatting the visible signs of ageing and sun damage, as well as the appearance of blemish-prone skin. Consequently, the skin may appear more refined and radiant.

“When preparing the skin for an Environ Cool Peel treatment, the client should start with using Environ Vitamin A moisturisers for a minimum of three weeks prior to the treatment. Please consult with a qualified Environ skincare therapist to assist you with the best recommendation while following Environ’s unique step-up system.

“Extra precaution should be taken post peel. For example, avoid sun exposure for the following seven days, and ensure that you use Environ sunscreen RAD SPF 15 for added protection. In addition, avoid exercise and swimming for 24 hours as the chemicals could irritate the skin. Do not rub or irritate the skin or use AHAs on the skin for at least 24 hours,” states Jacobs.

Environ recommends that Cool Peel clients add the following to their regime: Original Range Moisturising Gel; Original Range Balancing Masque; Intensive Range Super Moisturiser +; Intensive Range Colostrum Gel; and Sun Care Range RAD SPF 15.

Progressive process Ursula Hunt of DermaFix explains that progressive skin peeling refers to increasing the intensity of chemical peels over time.

“A series of six peels is typically R

Professional Beauty June 2016

peeling

performed where the depth of resurfacing is progressively increased. This is done through the use of very superficial peels in the beginning, which penetrate the stratum corneum and possibly the upper layers of the stratum spinosum in the epidermis. Superficial peels penetrate the entire epidermis and possibly the papillary dermis. The effect on the skin is desquamation and acceleration of the epidermal renewal process,” says Hunt.

She points out that Fitzpatrick skin types (IV –V1) usually require more gentle peels than the lighter Fitzpatrick skin types (1-111), due to the greater risk of pigmentary changes such as PIH (Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation).

“Mandelic acid, an AHA, is found in our DermaFix DermaBright, which offers a superficial mini-peel noted for its superior results in the improvement of hyperpigmentation and acne.

“The BHA, salicylic acid, is commonly used in peeling formulations. It has a mild anaesthetic effect on the skin, highly effective for the improvement of acne and it assists to refine problematic breakouts. TCA (trichloracetic acid) peels range from superficial to deep, depending on the acid concentration required for anti-ageing and photodamaged skin. We never use a concentration higher than 15%.

“A vitamin A propionate peel can be used as a standalone, but more often it is used as a ‘booster’ and layered over the other abovementioned superficial peels.

The DermaFix Progressive 3 or 4 stage peel makes use of AHA, BHA, TCA, and Vitamin A Propionate as, used in combination, it will benefit most skin problems with a single peel,” comments Hunt.

She concludes by saying that the goal of peeling the skin is to continue increasing the intensity of each subsequent peeling protocol, based on the skin reactivity and tolerance to each procedure, thus offering superior results.

Pic: Sothys

50

Resurfacing The Sothys Resurfacing Peeling Treatment is an effective double exfoliation that combines detoxifying manual microdermabrasion with a 20% glycolic and bonded salicylic acid peel to intensely renew the skin. Complemented by an oxygenating mask, it unveils a smoother, softer and brighter complexion.

“After only one treatment the skin is visibly clear, smoother and refined. All skin types can benefit from this treatment unless your skin is extremely sensitive. It’s ideal for oily, dull and dry skin, fine lines and wrinkles or hyperpigmentation,” say the experts at Sothys.

Turbo-powered peel RégimA has combined the renowned action of malic, lactic and citric acids with advanced peel technology, creating a new generation 6 Natural Acid Turbo Peel.

Says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt: “With the addition of healing ingredients such as Centella Asiatica

Professional Beauty June 2016

and D-Panthenol, this peel provides so much more rejuvenating activity.

Importantly, this peel is safe to use all year round and during pregnancy.

“Our new acid complex of peach leaves, raspberry fruit and apple fruit extracts does have AHA and BHA action. They are in different forms and concentrations, however, they also perform other very important activities on the skin, more than the other concentrated acids. These extracts are organic and there are no side effects.

“The concentrated malic, lactic and citric acids that we use within the peels are the acids specifically extracted (without extra elements) and used at maximum strength from the full plant material, which can include the fruit, leaves, stems, roots. There are different aspects to extracting from specific parts of the plants.”

Expert application From Anesi, the Aqua Vital Dermo Peel Expert is an intensive exfoliating treatment that resurfaces the skin for a refreshing, radiant complexion.

Formulated with an enzymatic peel of pineapple stem and marine plankton, the peel also includes

online at www.probeauty.co.za

peeling

51

“

Chemical peeling is exactly what it says – a chemical solution that harnesses your body’s natural processes of renewal, which can largely be summed up as discarding old skin cells to make space for new ones.

Dr Bradley Wagemaker

”

allantion and horsetail extract to regenerate and improve elasticity.

The skin is rejuvenated from a cutaneous level and the peeling effect lasts between three and four days. It is safe for all skin types and will assist with reducing fine lines and wrinkles, enlarged pores. In addition, it refines skin texture and lightens pigmentation.

Anesi’s Infini Jeunesse Silglycol eliminates and removes the surface layers of ageing skin. It deeply renovates the skin for a younger, luminous and softer complexion and boosts the production of new collagen fibres, thus guaranteeing the stabilisation of its synthesis. This is thanks to the chemical combination of 10% glycolic acid and organic silicon. The Silglycol maintains the skin’s optimum hydration level and fades wrinkles, age spots and scars.

It reduces pigmentation marks and evens the skin tone. The product can be used in conjunction with any Anesi facial for optimum results as there is no downtime, redness, or uncomfortable sensation on the skin.

Advances The Priori Advanced AHA Professional Peeling system is a highly hydrating and anti-ageing remedy. This intensive treatment leaves the skin hydrated, revitalised and nourished with multi-functional vitamin antioxidants for protection

and anti-ageing benefits. The added benefit is that skin requires no healing after the treatment and there is consequently no downtime.

Ideally this treatment can be performed as a course of six treatments, once per week for six weeks.

Multi-faceted Sknlogic is launching its Multipeel June. This AHA and BHA peel works for wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, dehydration and acne.

Multi-purpose and timedependent, this superficial peeling agent provides a safe, controlled and predictable procedure that gradually removes surface skin cells, resulting in an improvement of skin texture.

The Sknlogic Multipeel utilises both alpha and beta hydroxy acids with other active ingredients to treat the skin. As a result, skin looks fresher with less visible damage such as fine lines and dark spots.

Along with the Multipeel, Sknlogic will launch a Neautraliser.

Alternative solutions Apocalypsis Therapy from Juliette Armand regenerates the skin by deeply exfoliating and promoting a more youthful appearance. It is recommended for biological and photo ageing, pigmentation and acne skin. This treatment is based on the combined exfoliationrejuvenation effects of spongilla, fragilis and ephydatia herbs with Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs).

Juliette Armand also offers alternative peeling solutions for clients that are sensitive to acid peeling.

These peels include

online at www.probeauty.co.za

phytopeeling combined with Zinc Oxide to form a powdered mask for acne and oil control.

Original herbal peel In contrast to chemical peels, the Green Peel from Dr. med. Christine Schrammek derma.cosmetics comprises a special mixture of various herbs and algae that are rich in minerals, enzymes and vitamins, to help skin regain a new and fresh appearance.

“This mixture is massaged into the client’s skin using a special technique by a Green Peel certified aesthetician,” says Victoria Wagner of distributor, Evolution Cosmetic. The upper layers of the skin are removed by the microparticles of the herbs.

This increases the skin’s receptiveness and stimulates cell renewal.

“Because there are no harmful chemicals or synthetic abrasives in the formula, the level of tolerability is very high. There are three classes of Green Peel – Classic (skin renewal); Energy (stimulating the skin); and Fresh Up (illuminating the skin).” PB

Professional Beauty June 2016

product focus – peeling after care

52

Sensitive to the touch Skin that has undergone a peel is in its most vulnerable state, requiring extra special care. An effective sunscreen is a priority, as is just the right amount of moisturisation and soothing ingredients to avoid irritating the exposed, immature skin cells.

Full force

Serious serum

For post-peel care DermaFix recommends ACC Hyaluronic Gel; DermaFix ACC Copper (copper peptides assist in accelerating the skin’s wound-healing); DermaFix Vitamin C Serum (with antiinflammatory properties); and DermaShield SPF 50 High Protection UVA/ UVB Sunscreen (SANS 1557:2013 and ISO24444, ISO4443 approved).

DNA Repair Serum from Juliette Armand is a powerful regenerating and healing serum that protects the skin’s natural defence function. The serum identifies and repairs damage to the DNA in our cells. It should be used in conjunction with the DNA Repair 24-Hour Cream.

011 033 0500

0861 28 23 23

The growth factor From the Doctor Babor Derma Cellular range, the Ultimate Protecting Balm SPF 50 is a professional sun protection balm for sensitive skin. The balm does not contain any perfumes or colourants, and has an extra-sensitive formula. It therefore gently moisturises any skin type as well as protects.

Ideal for restoring dermal balance after any peel, Anesi’s Cell Reveil EGF contains epidermal growth factors at their maximum concentration to stimulate cell regeneration.

This serum reconstructs damaged cells and promotes skin rejuvenation, resulting in increased skin thickness and elasticity. It has nutritional and softening properties.

011 467 0110

011 791 4027

Ultimate protection

Professional Beauty June 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

product focus – peeling after care

53 Barrier buffer Priori Barrier Repair Complex strengthens and repairs skin barrier function, and consequently soothes and heals dry, red skin postpeel. Key ingredients include ceramides, cholesterol and essential fatty acids, all combined in a silky emulsion designed to enhance optimum skin moisturisation by providing essential skin nutrients.

011Â 486 4904

Soothing protection Dr Schrammek Derma.Cosmetics Skin Care created Blemish Balm to soothe stressed skin and conceal redness after a Green Peel treatment. Blemish Balm boasts an anti-inflammatory and calming effect and assists with a variety of other skin problems, while providing coverage and protection.

011 325 5849

InSpIrIng toDay’S HaIrDrESSEr Date: 28 & 29 August 2016 Venue: Gallagher Convention Centre Opening Times: Sunday 10h00 – 18h00 Monday 10h00 – 17h00

Increase your knowledge • Stage Demos • Hair Competition • Exhibitor Demos ✪ Introducing Sensational Seminar Sessions Whether you are looking for personal or business growth, these attractions are not to be missed.

Come along and gain invaluable advice from the top industry professionals on how you can make your efforts and creativity translate in a successful business.

the time for cHAnge is here!

the event for your professional hair business Register now for your fRee ticket and save the R250 entry fee.

www.salonafrica.co.za Salon Africa was previously known as Professional Hair

hair news

55

Crowning

glory

Shaping the Futures Thirty young, aspiring hairdressers from previously disadvantaged backgrounds graduated from the Schwarzkopf Professional Shaping the Futures training programme in Johannesburg on 13 April.

Co-ordinated by the Sharpeville Foundation, Shaping the Futures comprises a free, six-week training course.

011 203 0700

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

To the rescue!

Paul Mitchell Ultimate Color Repair Triple Rescue is a dual-phase spray that protects against excessive heat that can damage colour-treated hair and lead to dull, faded strands. Triple Rescue’s conditions hair with Quinoa Color Repair complex, so hair looks healthy, shiny and vibrant.

011 305 1600

Shine bright Moroccanoil Glimmer Shine is a finishing spray that attracts and reflects light to give hair a gorgeous gloss. Infused with Argan oil, vitamins and antioxidants, this spray creates an invisible veil of pure, luminous shine which helps protect hair against harmful environmental elements.

011 305 1600

Curly top Inoar Divine Curls consists of a ‘low poo’ shampoo, conditioner, finishing gel and mask for curly hair. The range is free of harmful chemicals that cause build-up on hair. It cleans hair and hydrates it without weighing the hair down, thanks to an ingredient extracted from golden flax.

012 346 1721

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty June 2016

medical aesthetics

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Managing FPHL Fewer than 45% of women go through life with a full head of hair. Female Pattern Hair Loss (FPHL) is the most common cause of hair loss and prevalence increases with age, writes Dr Catherine Davies.

Some causes

of hair loss Telogen Effluvium-

A widespread yet gradual diffuse shedding or thinning of the hair, rather than in clumps or patches.

Females who present with diffuse hair loss should always have a general examination and possibly blood tests. Diffuse hair loss is often triggered by underlying disorders such as thyroid, iron or hormonal imbalances. If the onset of hair loss is sudden, one must question the state of the patient three months prior to onset.

Stresses such as illness, surgery and crash dieting can trigger this form of hair loss.

Traction alopeciaHair loss along the front of the hair due to braiding, twisted dreadlocks or hair styles that continuously pull tight. The effect can be worsened by concomitant use of chemical relaxers.

Alopecia areataCoin-sized bald patches appear on the scalp due to auto immune condition.

Scarring alopeciaAlso known as cicatricial alopecia, usually caused by complications from another condition (and consequently, hair won’t grow back).

Anagen effluviumCommonly a side effect of chemotherapy and other cancer treatments.

TrichotillomaniaSelf-inflicted hair loss caused by obsessively pulling out one’s own hair.

F

emale Pattern Hair Loss (FPHL) has a particular ‘pattern’ as opposed to other forms of hair loss, which may be more diffuse (all over) or have distinctive patterns themselves.

The condition is characterised by a reduction in hair density over the crown and frontal scalp, with retention of the frontal hairline. In 1977, Ludwig clearly described the distinctive features of FPHL and classified it into three grades of severity – Ludwig grades I, II, and III.

the tremendous psychological effect that the condition may have on the patient. One needs to be empathetic, give the patient hope, but also be realistic about expectations, and about the length of time it takes to see improvement on treatment.

Early diagnosis and initiation of treatment is desirable as most treatments are more effective at arresting progression of hair loss than stimulating regrowth. It is also important to let the patient know that any treatment will take time to show results. Response to treatment is usually measured at six months and 12 months after initiating treatment.

Forms of treatment The first thing to remember when managing the hair loss patient is

Professional Beauty June 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

medical aesthetics

57

Pharmaceutical Minoxidil 2% is the only topical FDA approved medication for hair loss. 1 ml of Minoxidil should be applied to a clean dry scalp twice daily. It works partly by causing vasodilation, thus increasing blood flow to the hair follicles.

It has minimal side effects, but can cause an irritation to the scalp, usually due to the propylene glycol. With FPHL, therapy must be continued indefintely.

Neutracuticals

Grade I

Grade II

Grade III

Certain vitamins and minerals are vital to maintain healthy hair, and contribute to hair loss if absent, in particular biotin, folic acid, silica and iron.

A new promising deep sea marine complex seems to halt progression of FPHL by stimulating proteoglycans – the molecules that control the proliferation of hair follicles.

Ludwig Classification System: Female Pattern Hair Loss

Mesotherapy

Platelet Rich Plasma

In-clinic treatments, such as mesotherapy, are gaining popularity.

If you increase the nutrients, vitamins, trace elements and amino acids that the hair requires for growth, it stands to reason that the bulb will grow thicker.

Results depend on the ‘cocktail’ of substances in the mesotherapy treatment, and are also enhanced by the needling action, which stimulates the hair follicle.

Different manufacturers will use different preparations, but an example cocktail might include: • Vitamins – dexpanthenol (B5), biotin (vitamin H), L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), vitamins A, E, B1, B2, B6, B complex, and D • Trace elements – cobalt, copper, ginkgo biloba, lithium, magnesium, manganese, phosphorous, selenium, sulphur, zinc • Nutritional drugs – Centella asiatica, silicon • Hormone – calcitonin • Anaesthetic – procaine This type of therapy can elicit

PRP involves drawing the patient’s own blood and centrifuging it to isolate the rich platelets, know as the buffy coat. The rich platelets are then activated and re-injected into the patient’s scalp, at the exact depth of the follicle. The body’s own inherent ‘healing pathway’ then gets to work on invigorating the follicle.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

good results in the treatment of acute diffuse hair loss, such as telogen effluvium, stress alopecia, androgenetic hair loss and alopecia areata. Patients typically undergo one treatment every two weeks over 10 weeks (i.e. five treatments in total).

Light therapy Low Level Light (LLL) therapy, or photobiostimulation, has been shown to be useful as an adjunct, or add-on, when treating FPHL. The action of LLL upon the skin is antiradical and anti-inflammatory, and increases collagen synthesis, which seems to yield a more effective management of androgenic alopecia.

Hair transplant surgery This is based around a principle known as ‘donor dominance’. That means the donor hair is dominant in its characteristics.

So, you take hair from a donor area – usually the back and sides of

the head – and the hair will retain the characteristic from that area regardless of where you put it.

Hair transplant surgery produces ‘excellent’ results in the treatment of androgenic alopecia, provided that the donor hair is in good condition.

Hair transplant is not indicated for diffuse hair loss, to thicken ‘fine hair’ or for alopecia areata.

There are two methods of removing the donor hair: follicular unit transplantation (FUT) and follicular unit extraction (FUE). The former involves taking a strip of skin from the back of the head, usually around 1- 2cm wide, with the length dependent on both how much hair you need and the density of the donor hair. The skin is then stitched up, which can leave a linear scar, which can usually be covered by hair.

The latter, known as FUE, avoids taking the whole piece of skin and stitching it up. Each hair is removed individually using a device that makes tiny punches of around 0.8 to 1mm. The hairs or units are then transplanted to areas of hair loss. It can take up to 12 months to see the full results of a hair transplant. PB

Dr Catherine Davies runs a medical practice in Illovo, Sandton, and has a special interest in hair restoration, skin rejuvenation and body shaping.

Professional Beauty June 2016

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medical aesthetics

58

Creating the illusion of hair Tricopigmentation is a technique that involves a microscopic injection of pigment into the most superficial layer of the dermis, allowing an optical reconstruction of an area characterised by hair thinning, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

A

lso known as scalp micropigmentation, tricopigmentation treatments are now offered at Revitalab, Figure & Vigour, a medical aesthetics clinic in Brooklyn, Pretoria.

Tricopigmentation, which was developed by Milena Lardì of Italian company Beauty Medical, is akin to a non-permanent tattoo on the scalp, applied with a device that applies brown pigment onto the scalp, dot by dot, with a 0.5mm needle. There are three applications – the density effect, scar camouflage and the shaved effect or buzz cut.

“After a slow start, mostly because this special treatment is still so new to the public, we are now beginning

to pick up steady bookings,” says Martelie Giezing of Revitalab. “Our advertising has been very successful and the demand for a willing ear to listen to people’s hair loss problems is in huge demand.”

She notes that the biggest request thus far has been for the density effect.

“However, this application doesn’t suit every person. I find that the best

outcome will be clients that go for the shaved effect, but male clients are still unaware of how effective this can be for them.”

Tricopigmentation is bioabsorbed by the immune defence system through phagocytosis in a span of two years maximum, making annual restoration sessions necessary. PB

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nails

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/hd5CYXTYTM0/maxresdefault.jpg

59

Fall into winter with the latest nail trends As we start piling on the layers in the pursuit of staying warm, don’t let your clients get caught without those layers on their fingers and toes. Make sure their nail looks are on trend, not only in the latest colours, but in the newest shapes and designs to hit this season’s nail scene, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

M

uch influence in terms of nail trends comes from the New York, Milan and Paris Fashion Week runway shows which take place annually.

Designers and stylists have always brought us more than just the latest on trend clothes, shoes, handbags, accessories, hairstyles and make-up. They have channelled their love for fashion and colour into nail couture, creating a canvas of the most fabulous and stunning shades for nails, which are sure to heat up the chilly Autumn/Winter season for 2016.

This season is bound to take the nail world by storm, following on from the soothing and feminine shades of Serenity and Rose Quartz, which were presented for the warmer seasons. The Autumn/Winter shades are leaning towards more muted, but sophisticated tones.

Square nails, although a favourite, have been replaced by shorter, more rounded nails, which were evident at New York Fashion Week, with this shape and form looking more urbane chic, feminine and stylishly refined.

Nail art has not always been considered as a hugely ‘in’ R

Professional Beauty June 2016

nails

www.fashionisers.com

www.popsugar.com (Image source: courtesy Deborah Lippmann)

60

Shutterstock

thing, but has lately taken on a whole new approach. No longer new takes on this forever-classic colour. are nails polished to perfection However, this is a red with a difference, in only a single colour – they an eye-catching, gorgeously charming are now coated in artistically and tasteful shade, just perfect for this designed manicures, making an season. A vibrant but subdued hue that inimitable fashion statement. certainly changes things up a bit from Along with top international your usual reds, making it a little more brands, up and coming new noteworthy and remarkably irresistible. I brands are certainly not guess it would have to be as it was Lady being left behind, proudly Gaga’s colour of choice for her Superbowl trendsetting the most performance of The Star Spangled Banner interesting collections and as well as for Rihanna’s Anti album. colours for all seasons, to stay up to date with global, nail Warm it Taupe trends. Lets take a look at www.popsugar.com (Image source : Carissa Lancaster ) Every season the sheer nudes and girlie the latest trends, colours and pinks are ever present, but there needs collections, which are making their debut this season. to be more to these shades than just playing it safe.

Fashionable, stylish, classy, chic, dashing – the stunningly Singing the blues sophisticated shade of taupe says it all and is sure to be Wearing blue nail polish has always been considered a a hit this winter. Exuding total elegance with its warm bit risky, however no need to be cautious as blue has embracing hue, like piping hot cocoa and available in rich taken on a whole new and exciting dimension. This top creamy opaque and super shiny finishes, taupe is ready to of the trends colour is so versatile and available in a complement just about any look. variety of alterable shades.

With Serenity being one of the two Pantone Colours for 2016, this soft hue has shifted from a soft summery palette, transforming from a calm airy blue, to a deeper riverside or constellation blue, and even darker navy blue, in pearlised and metallic versions, which are lighting up the way with their distinctive shimmering effects.

Dusty Cedar

50 Shades of grey

A subtle, spellbinding but beautifully vibrant hue, with tints in lighter emeralds, to darker timberland hues and shimmering shades, green resonates with a feeling of freedom and independence and puts you at one with nature. This is a colour which radiates a touch of class.

Feel gorgeous, not grey, in this colour, especially with the exciting variety of different shades that have made their breakthrough and are totally modern and moody.

Available in cool and warm undertones to suit just about anyone, grey is another hue that is predicted to be hot this season, making an explicit and intriguing fashion statement that is dependable and on trend.

Aurora in Red With red being a perennially popular colour, no matter what the season, brands have released an array of

With rose undertones inspired by one of Pantone’s colours of the year, Earth’s semi-precious stone, rose quartz, has been adapted into a warmer, dusky pink bronze tone, just perfect for warming up the winter season.

Gorgeous in Green

Spice it up with Mustard This shade is like nothing you have ever seen before – it’s hot and not worn by just anyone, because it’s borderline daring and sure to spice things up.

Mustard has not featured much or been ranked as one of the top most worn shades in previous seasons,

Professional Beauty June 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

nails

61 colors to play with. What’s more, glitter is an easy way of sprucing up and prolonging the life of your manicure.

Shuttersto ck

www.popsugar.com (Image source: Imaxtree)

Negative space This is a look which I think we all thought had its time. However, at New York Fashion Week, plenty of nails were done in adaptions of blue, with the models having their nails painted in funkier styles. This look was showcased at the Marissa Webb show, where the matt negative space electric nail look was created using OPI’s Light My Sapphire.

Potter’s Clay A rich earthy mix of orange and brickred make up this complex but sincere shade, which is perfectly balanced and grounded in slightly varied shades with shimmery gold and bronze undertones that warm the heart. Best worn in a glossy finish, this colour is ultra chic and flamboyant.

Shutterstock

however you will be surprised at just how tasteful it can look and will undoubtedly turn some heads.

@monkeyar

t

Artistic splatter Whoever thought that those artistic splatters you messed around with and created when you were younger would ever be considered as awesome artistic looks by using nails as the canvas?

Each creation has its own uniqueness that can’t ever be repeated. So have fun with a myriad of different designs and colours in yellow, blue, green, red and orange, combining lines and dots and splashed looks, inventing it as you go along.

Sunset Tones

Play with a splash of colour that will wow, in combinations and shades from a softer, creamy understated lilac, to brighter, more fuchsia pink, to deeper orchid pinky red and juicy grape. This is a beautifully bold and bright addition to the season’s colour collection.

One can’t help but appreciate a captivating and exquisitely beautiful sunset at the end of the day, as colours intertwine and flow into one another, reflecting a fusion of shades and layers.

Instead of the sky as the canvas, this look is interpreted on the nails using a variety of different colours combined with reflective metallic bronze, golds and silvers, to create a diverse but interesting nail art look.

Shimmering silver

Dark and daring

Bodacious and bold

Celebs have been rocking silver for a while now and this colour is available in a variety of options and textures, from matt silvers, to metallic silver (like liquid metal on your fingertips) and even holographic shades with a three-dimensional effect, and a spellbinding array of colours, reflecting iridescent glitzy undertones of pinks, golds, silvers, greens and blues.

Own the night and be individual in black, a colour seldom worn, for fear of coming across as Goth or punk. Wear it on its own in a choice of matt or glossy, or combine it for a more distinctive look by adding a touch of glitter to the tips or lunula in any glittery shade, from gold or silver to copper or rainbow mix for a touch of sparkle. PB

Glitter in the mix Mixed media nail glitter suspended in the top coat is an ideal and effortless way to keep nails fun and funky, in the finest of fairy glitter, to chunkier, more textured versions.

You can create glitzy glamorous nails in an instant, without spending hours on creating perfect nail art.

There are a number of glitter top coats that have made their appearance in different sizes, shapes, textures and

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 26 years. She trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills.

Email: sonettevr@gmail.com

Professional Beauty June 2016

business tips

62

In the market

Our round-up of newly launched products and devices.

r

Burning bright

‘Accent’-uated device

Rainbow Bath & Beauty recently added 25ml and 75ml tins to its existing range of 100% natural soy massage candles, which includes the 200ml in a glass.

Non-toxic, non-carcinogenic and paraffin-free, the candles are rich with Vitamin E. Combinations of Shea butter, avocado oil and various essential oils make the candle wax ideal for dry skins.

r

Best Lasers is proud to announce the launch of the Accent Prime. This device does facial and body contouring, cellulite reduction, centimetre reduction and stretch marks, as well as hyperhidrosis and osmidrosis, all in a single system. This results in significantly reduced treatment times.

012 998 9844

At the epi-centre

r

074 379 9452

From Lamelle Research Laboratories, the Nourish Range is believed to be the first anti-ageing skincare programme developed to directly correct skin ageing from the very control centre of skin – the DNA. Innovative DNA enzymes are capable of entering the damaged skin cells and directly repair DNA injury so that the cell can function normally.

Vital vitamin

r

011 465 2264

NeoStrata’s Exuviance Vitamin C+ Antiaging Booster is a high potency, 100% active power formula with patented Aceta-C that smooths wrinkles, diminishes dark spots and increases firmness. Vitamin C helps strengthen the skin’s matrix, while the super antioxidant Aceta-C enhances the natural anti-ageing effects of Vitamin C. 011 545 9300

Professional Beauty June 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

63

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Professional Beauty June 2016

saahsp

64 South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals

Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

Help SAAHSP to give you a voice SAAHSP Professional Body may not be a statutory body, however we do have statutory legislation which, amongst others, gives us the statutory function to police/safeguard and protect the public and our profession as a whole.

This is as per “Government Notice 585 in Government Gazette 35547 of 27 July 2012, in terms of Section 13(1)(i)(i) of the National Qualifications Framework Act, 67 of 2008, rules for Professional Bodies."

What this means is that our industry has now become self-regulatory and through the CPD (Continuing Professional Development) process will elevate the standards that we pride ourselves on.

Briefly stated, here are the statutory functions as a Professional Body according to ”Act 67”:

• Encourage international leading practice and raising of esteem for professions in South Africa.

• Promote public understanding of, and trust in professions, through the establishment of a nationally regulated system for the recognition of professional bodies and for registration of professional designations.

• Facilitate access to, and analysis of, data related to professions, including traditional trades and occupations.

• Encourage social responsibility and accountability in professions relating to professional services for communities and individuals.

• Encourage development and implementation of continuing professional development

• Promote pride in association for all professions, including traditional trades and occupations.

• • • •

• Promote protection of the public by professional bodies from malpractice by registered professionals.

• Support development of a national career advice system.

SAAHSP Designation Ownership Nail Technologist Beauty Technologist Beauty Therapist Somatologist

Please visit http://pbdesig.saqa.org.za/ for a detailed listing.

How can you get involved to help SAAHSP self-regulate the industry? By becoming a SAAHSP member.

Go to http://www.saahsp.com/#!membership/v7zsn to help us to help you.

Professional Beauty June 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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