AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS
incorporating
ON GUARD PPE EQUIPMENT
SNACKS FOR THE SKIN
NUTRITIONAL SUPPLEMENTS
June 2020 | probeauty.co.za
VIRUS CHECK
IS YOUR SALON COVID SECURE?
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24
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In this issue... Regulars
Features
6 Industry news
20 Creating a safe haven PPE Equipment
Local and international news
Business 11 Ask the Experts All your questions answered
12 Product compliance in the EU Tests that products need to undergo
14 Instilling confidence in clients post COVID-19 Luring clients back through your doors
16 How emotionally agile are you? Tips for self-development and growth
17 The COVID-19 Business Abnormal Checklist Business ‘musts’ for the new era
22 Talking to…Linda Sinclair Sorbet CEO designate has her say
Spa Focus 24 Safety first Restarting spas post lockdown
26 Is de-stressing the answer to healthy skin? A stress-free state of mind
27 The next frontier Latest anti-ageing actives
30 Feeding the skin from the inside Nutritional supplements
Aesthetic Medicine 32 Million dollar exfoliation Dermaplaning unpacked
34 Smooth sailing Hair removal devices
Hair News 38 A cut above Wyatt Hairdressing & Barbering
Nails 41 NailFile Issue 33
34 online @ probeauty.co.za
Welcome
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O
n the 19th of June, the South African beauty industry must have emitted the biggest of sigh of relief in its history. The Government finally published the protocols for salons, strict adherence to which, allows them to become fully operational again. At last! The gazetting of the protocols followed nearly three months in which salons were shut down due to the national COVID-19 lockdown, only being able to sell products as from 1 May, with treatment services prohibited until now. There were numerous petitions, court cases and interactions between Government, the industry bodies and others to try and effect a more timeous reopening of the industry. Hopes were high and then dashed on a number of occasions as the industry expected the go-ahead from Government much earlier than it actually happened. The casualty count in terms of the number of jobs lost, as well as the numbers of salons that may never be able to open again, will become apparent in the near future. There’s no doubt that the COVID-19 crisis and the lockdown have been catastrophic for the industry. But it’s now time to rebuild again. May the industry emerge from this unprecedented nightmare stronger and more resilient than ever before. In this issue we provide vital information relating to the Government protocols and regulations that salons must comply with in order to reopen. Failure to do so could mean that salons are shut down again. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS
incorporating
ON GUARD PPE EQUIPMENT
SNACKS FOR THE SKIN
NUTRITIONAL SUPPLEMENTS
June 2020 | probeauty.co.za
VIRUS CHECK
IS YOUR SALON COVID SECURE?
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Everything you need for your cosmetic EU and UK compliance! • EU responsible person
• Stability and compatibility testing
• UK responsible person
• Challenge tests
• Product information file preparation
• Claim substantiation tests
• Safety assessments (CPSR)
• CPNP notifications
www.ceway.eu
—
info@ceway.eu.
6 News
News Personal care services free to operate, under strict conditions The Minister of Small Business Development, Khumbudzo Ntshavheni, has given the green light for formal and informal salons to open under strict conditions. Salons were shut down on 27 March due to the COVID-19 lockdown. Ntshavheni gazetted guidelines on 19 March, following President Cyril Ramaphosa’s announcement that many industries would now reopen under Level 3. The Government Gazette listing all the protocols and regulations can be accessed on https://www. probeauty.co.za/back-to-work Services deemed safe to resume operations include hairdressing, barbering, nail and toe treatment, facial treatment and make-up, body massage, tattooing and body piercing. Said the Minister: “All personal care businesses, which are allowed to operate, will adhere to the following basic principles applicable to all salons: hand washing, social distancing between customers and staff wherever possible, the use of cloth masks at all times, and more protective masks for close facial contact, and cleaning and disinfecting of touch areas and equipment.”
Ntshavheni also encouraged contactless payment where possible. Meanwhile, employees should be equipped with personal protective equipment (PPE), including visors, while stylists should wear facemasks at all times. PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) must be cleaned after serving each customer. She continued: “No customer will be served without wearing a mask. Aprons must be changed after serving each customer and reuse can only be done after the apron has been washed with water and soap. Where gloves are required for treatments, they should be changed after each client and should not be shared under any conditions.”
Ntshavheni urged businesses to work by appointment to avoid long queues, while queuing customers must maintain social distancing. Any owner, worker or customer, who has flu-like symptoms, should be barred from the premises. A register must be kept of customers and persons who enter the salon on each day for traceability. Meanwhile, the provision of all snacks and drinks is prohibited, as beverage and food amenities for customers is suspended. All bottled products must be wiped down with a 70% alcohol solution after serving each customer, and fresh and clean towels must be used for each customer.
‘Back to work’ toolkit launched Professional Beauty has launched the ‘Back to work’ toolkit for all salons and spas reopening their business. The toolkit includes vital information relating to the mandated compliance of Government’s recently announced hygiene and safety protocols for the personal care services sector. Accessible on https://www. probeauty.co.za/back-to-work, the toolkit provides information on the following: how to create a
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return to work risk management plan (and an example of such a plan); a declaration for a business permitted to operate at Level 3 lockdown; and the appointment of a compliance offer and the duties that fall under this position. It is also advised that salon owners look at all the steps a client and staff take in their premises to see where cross contamination of the virus can take place, and put in procedures to reduce or remove that risk.
Within the Professional Beauty toolkit, salon and spa owners will find all the compliance downloads necessary to reopen their businesses, including the Government Gazette with the new protocols; the owner declaration; the risk assessment template; the daily health screening questionnaire for staff; and an essential checklist. Downloads for COVID-19 posters and signage are also available.
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The Professional Beauty Group is excited to announce a brand new, worldwide virtual exhibition that brings together and unites the industry as never before, running from 8 to 10 September 2020. Professionalbeauty.world will feature exhibitors from South Africa, the UK, France, Spain, Italy, India, Dubai and Australia, to name just some of the countries that will be participating. You will be able to view the exhibitors’ products, talk to
representatives and arrange appointments to meet ‘virtually’. There will also be a large educational programme with six simultaneous streams, including the World Spa & Wellness Convention, Aesthetic Medicine Live and The Salon Business Forum, as well as technical & creative workshops. For those who are brand owners, the International Manufacturers Forum maybe of interest, and for those looking at creating their own product, then the CIPCI
News
Exciting brand new online event
(Cosmetics, Ingredients, Packaging International) programme is essential for you to attend. Says Phil Woods of Professional Beauty South Africa: “We are delighted to be announcing this event, which we hope will become the largest event of its kind. The potential to see so many brands, products and ideas in one space is fantastic and the education will be really valuable to the sector.” For more information visit professionalbeauty.world
SWAA opens SA Chapter President of SWAA (Spa & Wellness Association of Africa), Elaine Okeke-Martin, has announced the opening of a SWAA Chapter in South Africa, with Jacoline Wentzel appointed executive committee chair. The SWAA entity was established in 2010 and has chapters in Mauritius, Kenya, Morocco, Ethiopia and Nigeria. It has a pipeline into many other African countries, such as Tunisia, Angola, Namibia and Zimbabwe, among several others, and hopes to establish chapters there within the decade. As to why she chose to open a chapter in South Africa, OkekeMartin says: “South Africa is an important country and we actually could not postpone it any longer, to be honest. People have asked me over the years why SWAA wasn’t yet in South Africa? The reason was that SWAA needed to grow organically and seeing that South Africa already had its own
national associations, it wasn’t as urgent compared to other African countries. “However, South Africa´s presence in the SWAA coalition is now vital, coming on board at a crucial time too, as the association celebrates 10 years this July. I believe the SA SWAA Chapter will be able to collaborate with the existing local national organisations, while developing industry standards and education further. We also hope to gain from the SA Chapter through its sharing of information and protocols of what has worked for the domestic industry.” Commenting on Jacoline Wentzel’s appointment, OkekeMartin says: “I was officially introduced to Jacoline by Celeste Peters, who is a board advisor to SWAA’s board of directors on communication. Jacoline was identified as the strongest candidate to bring SA on board. She started her own spa distribution and consulting company in Cape Town,
called The Spa Warehouse, which has grown into one of the leading distribution companies in South Africa, with exclusive rights to various up market spa ranges. Jacoline is extremely passionate about the spa and wellness industry.” SWAA has made its memberships free for the whole of 2020 to celebrate its 10th anniversary. online @ probeauty.co.za
News
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Wellness celebrated in GWD’s 24-hour livestream Global Wellness Day (GWD), a non-profit initiative dedicated to the concept of living well, was celebrated throughout the world on 13 June and streamed live on YouTube, Facebook and Twitter. Over a period of 24 hours, the ninth annual GWD presented nonstop talks and classes on a variety of wellness topics, such as health, meditation, spiritual, mental and emotional wellbeing, physical fitness, nutrition, plant-based cooking, yoga, energy healing, skin science and lifestyle, as well as Thai traditional medicine. Speakers and presenters, all experts in their respective fields, were drawn from across the globe. In a particularly exciting session, Turkish wingsuit base jump world record holder, Cengiz Kocak, performed a live wingsuit base jump in honour of GWD, with cameras following his spectacular flight. South Africa’s GWD ambassador, Celeste Peters, served as one of the presenters on the day, introducing several sessions, among them a yoga class hosted by fellow South African, Kirsty Mawhinney Hodgskin. Said Mawhinney Hodgskin: “What a fabulous day. The insights and inspirational speakers and presenters were mind-blowing.” GWD was initiated in 2012 by Turkish spa professional, Belgin Aksoy. For almost a decade, GWD has been reminding people around the world the value of taking care of their physical and mental health. Never before has its message been more meaningful than now during a global pandemic.
Zambia ambassador Just prior to the actual event, GWD announced its first ever ambassador for Zambia, Leandre Fuhri Shaw, spa manager at the aha David Livingstone Safari Lodge.
Says Fuhri Shaw: “As the GWD Ambassador for Zambia, my duties are to share and spread the notion of well-being to everyone everywhere, and to encourage and excite the whole of Zambia to join this initiative by letting them know that one day can make a difference in their lives. “I believe in starting this campaign at home, and by that I don’t mean the town of Livingstone, but rather the spa and beauty industry of Zambia, including the hospitality industry.”
Pandemic causes shifts in personal care market As a result of the COVID-19 crisis, many personal care suppliers are streamlining operations and attempting to control costs as volumes drop. So says Sarah Bradley, MD at Kerfoot Group, a supplier of natural and organic oils, essential oils and waxes. “Many brands are temporarily condensing their product portfolios to focus on their core offering. In our part online @ probeauty.co.za
of the ingredients supply chain, we are seeing consolidation of base products and oils to ensure consistent supply in a volatile and often challenging market. “There has been a great deal of change across the personal care sector in a very short space of time, quite unlike anything we’ve seen before. However, this could turn out to be a benefit to the industry. The increasing
need to diversify, as well as a rise in personalisation, has seen a growing challenge of SKU (StockKeeping Unit) proliferation, with resources and brand identity alike being spread thin. The revised product cycles that we’re seeing impact the personal care market could actually be just what many businesses need, to refocus on what makes them stand out in a busy and competitive market.”
News
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Spa Professionals Guild launches Founded by Marisa Dimitriadis and Shanee Parsley, the newly launched Spa Professionals Guild has established offices in South Africa and the USA, in keeping with the global accessibility of the network. The Guild is positioned as a platform that combines business coaching with business management training, mentor programmes (group and individual), weekly blogs and business tips, membership networks and access to critical industry resources. Says Dimiitriadis, who initiated the concept: “Over two decades of industry feedback have highlighted the need for a virtual community, where members can attend critical business management training in their own time, and access resources, such as SOPs (Standard Operating Procedures) for all aspects of running their spa and salon businesses. Formal industry education falls short in daily operational business training and, as such, there is a massive gap, and thus need, for this type of career development.” She notes that spa professionals who are Guild members can benefit by advancing their careers through critical skills training. They will have the ability to grow their businesses by accessing ‘business in a box’ guidance in terms of resources and SOPs. In addition, they can expand their network and reach by connecting with like-minded individuals internationally. “We are extremely proud to be guiding wellness business into the future, where borders are erased and leaders join forces to improve upon one of the world’s largest industries. The Guild started supporting the beauty, nail and hair industry in the first week of the COVID-19 lockdown in many countries,” concludes Dimitriadis. Follow the Spa Professionals Guild on Facebook and Instagram to keep up to date with latest courses.
What the COVID-19 crisis has taught small businesses The most important learnings for small businesses during the COVID-19 pandemic are building up liquid cash savings, reducing debt and trimming non-essential spending. This is according to 93% of respondents who participated in the National Small Business Survey, conducted by the NSBC (National Small Business Chamber). Says Mike Anderson, NSBC Founder & CEO: “The short-term outlook for small businesses varies greatly by industry. It’s important to consider what recovery mode will look like
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once the economy begins to return to state of normalcy, or has established a new normal. “The pandemic has also taught us how important it is to be able to adapt and keep businesses fluid to weather storms in the future. The more outside-the-box thinking to prepare for a worst-case scenario, the better. Having a Plan B can help improve every business’s odds of surviving and eventually thriving again during tough financial times.” Anderson notes that the COVID-19 Small Business Relief and Recovery Centre is
a national initiative designed to help small businesses by taking their pain away during the COVID-19 pandemic. This initiative is powered by the NSBC, in partnership with Health Squared, Telkom, Liberty, Cisco, Absa, Mastercard, Discovery, Vodacom, Google, MTN, Netstar, Xero, Nashua, Incredible Connection, Tarsus and Visa. For more information about the Small Business Relief and Recovery Centre go to https:// www.nsbc.africa/COVID-19 or alternatively e-mail: covid19@ nsbc.africa
11 Business Tips
ask
the EXPERTS
Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
How can I create a positive mindset in the midst of the current COVID-19 crisis? With all the craziness going on in the world, now more than ever we require a positive mindset. Out of every crisis, opportunities are born. However, when we are anxious, stressed or in fear, our minds cannot think creatively and productively. So we need to revamp our mindpower, because it is the most powerful tool we have. Tip 1: Upgrade your thoughts Our thoughts are real forces and impact our lives. You become what you think about. So much of what is happening in the world right now is out of our control, but the one thing we can control are our thoughts. Become aware of what you are thinking about and what you say when you talk to yourself. No one talks to you more than yourself! Change negative self-talk into positive self-talk. Even if you don’t believe what you are saying, your subconscious cannot tell the difference between what you are feeding it and reality. Your thoughts create your beliefs, which create your feelings, which impact your actions and then your results. Challenge: aim to not complain for 24 hours, and then for the next 24 hours and so on.
Tip 2: Reduce negative input The amount of negativity that we consume on a daily basis through news channels and social media is a complete negative overload, so limit how much you absorb. Robin Banks from MindPower calls the NEWS – ‘Negative Energy With Suffering’. Also, avoid people who continually moan and groan. Change your channel from NEWS to PEWS – ‘Positive Energy With Satisfaction’. Challenge: monitor how much positive input vs negative input you are consuming and aim to increase this ratio. Tip 3: Practice gratitude Our brain has a natural tendency to process more negative than positive. Practicing gratitude trains our brain to start looking for more positive information and generates serotonin, a happiness chemical. Start a daily Gratitude journal. There is always something to be grateful for so focus on that – where focus goes, energy flows. Challenge: create an Attitude of Gratitude by keeping a daily written Gratitude journal.
Tip 4: Create a success vibration When times are tough, we forget how amazing we actually are. Write your own Success List of all your amazing qualities and accomplishments to remind yourself of your awesomeness. Ask people who know you well (and who tend to be positive) to contribute to your list. Don’t be humble. Challenge: Write a Success List of at least 20 qualities / accomplishments. Having the right positive mindset with what you have now will put you in good stead to achieve more in your life and attract good opportunities. You are the master of your own destiny, make it an awesome one! PB
Bev Mileham is a keynote speaker, organisation culture consultant and Gallup Certified Strengths Coach. She recently returned to South Africa after living in Dubai for 25 years, where she has helped organisations in the Middle East achieve results through people performance, team performance and building an engaging and invigorating culture. bev@mileham.vip
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Business Tips
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Product compliance in the EU TJAĹ A GRUM of CE.way outlines which tests cosmetic products sold in the EU have to undergo to be compliant.
T
he testing of cosmetic products is one of the most important parts of the registration process in the EU because it ensures the quality and safety of the products. It is also the bottleneck of the compliance procedure as it can take several months to have all the testing done. Therefore, it is crucial to be aware of all the testing requirements and to plan ahead in order to facilitate the registration process of your cosmetic products as best you can.
What is mandatory? There are three main types of testing required for cosmetic products in the EU as defined under the EU Cosmetics online @ probeauty.co.za
Regulation (EC) 1223/2009. All cosmetics placed on the EU market have to undergo batch testing, which includes physical, chemical and microbiological specifications. They also require challenge testing, also known as preservative efficacy testing or PET, as well as stability and compatibility testing. Before we dive into each individual test, it is important to emphasise the importance of the testing report. This report has to include all the necessary information about testing; there has to be a clear conclusion, and it has to bear the signature of the person responsible for the testing. It is also necessary to add that tests have to be performed using the testing methods that are accepted by the EU authorities (e.g. ISO standards).
Physical, chemical and microbiological testing All cosmetic products circulating in the EU have to comply with good manufacturing practice (GMP), more specifically with EN ISO 22716 standard, which provides guidance for the production, control, storage and shipment of cosmetic products. According to GMP, every batch of cosmetic products has to be tested for physical, chemical and microbiological properties in order to ensure the safety and quality of each batch. Microbiological specifications of the finished cosmetic product have to include the total count of aerobic mesophilic microorganisms (bacteria plus yeast and mould) and results for the most common pathogens. For products which are specifically intended for children under three years of age, the eye area or the mucous membranes, the total aerobic mesophilic microorganisms should not exceed 100 CFU per g or ml. For other cosmetics, the limit is set a bit higher – 1,000 CFU per g or ml. In addition to the total count of bacteria as well as yeast
and mould, products have to be tested for four most common pathogens, which are Escherichia Coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Candida albicans. The absence of these four pathogens in 1 g or 1 ml has to be proven. Physical and chemical parameters are defined based on the type of product formulation. Some of the most commonly investigated parameters are viscosity, density, pH, phase separation, physical state and organoleptic properties (odour, colour).
Challenge testing According to the EU cosmetics regulation, the cosmetic product safety report has to also include results of a preservation challenge test. This test is required for all products, which under normal storage and conditions for use, may deteriorate or form a risk to consumers. The purpose of challenge testing is to test whether microorganisms introduced during normal and reasonably foreseeable use will not negatively affect the quality or safety of the product. Preservation of a cosmetic product is important in order to ensure microbial safety and to maintain the quality and safety of the products throughout their shelf life. By using preservatives, we, therefore, prevent the spoilage of the product and protect the consumers from any possible health risks. Challenge testing includes artificial contamination of the finished product, followed by a subsequent evaluation of the decrease in contamination. In order for the product to pass the testing, its preservation system has to be sufficiently effective to decrease the level of microorganisms to the allowed, predefined microbial limits. Microorganisms used in challenge testing are usually the following: Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aeruginosa, Candida albicans and Aspergillus brasiliensis.
Business Tips
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A challenge test usually takes four weeks, and it has to be performed again only in certain cases, such as product reformulation.
Microbiologically low-risk products Some products represent a very low risk of microbiological contamination and microbial growth due to their characteristics. These include the product formulation, production conditions, packaging or a combination of these factors, which create a hostile environment for microbial survival and growth. Products that are produced according to the GMP and have characteristics that do not support microbial growth, do not require challenge testing. However, every exemption from challenge testing has to be properly substantiated.
Stability and compatibility testing Every cosmetic product sold in the EU has to be tested for stability in order to ensure that it meets the intended physical, chemical and microbiological standards when stored under normal and reasonably foreseeable conditions. By exposing the product to various conditions such as various temperatures, humidity, UV light and mechanical stress, we can predict conditions which a product may be subjected to during its shelf life and see if these conditions have a negative impact on the product’s quality and safety. By performing a stability test, we also determine the minimum durability of the product and its period after opening (PAO). Product packaging can also affect the finished product stability, e.g. leaching of substances of the packaging into the product formulation. Therefore, in addition to the
physical stability of the product formulation, compatibility between the formulation and the primary packaging is also checked during stability testing. This category of testing should be performed in inert packaging (e.g. glass container) as well as in the final product packaging in which the product will be sold. In case you use different packaging types, it is advisable to test the product in every type of packaging. There are two types of stability tests – real-time and accelerated test. Real-time stability testing monitors the product throughout its shelf life, so for example, if you want to claim a one-year shelf life, you have to monitor the product for one year. On the other hand, accelerated testing is done under accelerated conditions, such as elevated temperatures. Consequently, the testing period is shortened, and such tests usually take three months. In any case, stability testing is usually the most time-consuming part of the product registration process. In certain cases, such as product reformulation, changes of the primary packaging material, any significant changes in the manufacturing process or equipment used, etc., the stability and compatibility testing have to be performed again. PB Tjaša Grum has a Bachelor’s degree in Cosmetic Science and a Master’s degree in Biochemistry from the University of Ljubljana, Slovenia. She is a Regulatory Consultant at CE.way Regulatory Consultants Ltd, which offers regulatory and testing services for cosmetic products. tjasa@ceway.eu
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Business Tips
14
Instilling confidence in clients
post COVID-19
Beauty business expert, LIZ MCKEON, sheds valuable insight on how salon owners can boost customers’ confidence once they reopen.
T
he definition of confidence is: the feeling or belief that one can have faith in, or rely on, someone or something. Clearly your clients were very confident in you, your team and your salon business previously, and there is no reason for this not to continue post COVID-19. In fact, why not see this as an opportunity to wow them even more?
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Health and safety are now a top priority for salon owners following the pandemic crisis. Let’s deal with this first so you can then get on with the job of running your amazing business. With both staff and members of the public likely to be anxious about their health for some time to come, it’s vital now more than ever to ensure that you prioritise health and safety and employee wellbeing in your salon.
Risk assessment Employers have a general duty to ensure the health, safety and welfare of their employees, clients, visitors and others who may be affected by their business activities. From a legal point of view, this means carrying out a risk assessment and preparing a safety statement that reflects any risks present in your premises.
Before the crisis, salon owners already their hands full making sure they complied with health & safety regulations. There are numerous areas that a salon business needs to bear in mind from a risk assessment point of view. While the following is not an exhaustive list, the law requires you to assess risks around adequate ventilation, appropriate workplace temperatures, proper lighting, removal of waste, sanitary washing facilities, workstation and seating setup, access routes and fire safety. Your risk assessment also needs to include a review of any risks that are specific to your particular premises.
New criteria As we prepare to reopen salons in the wake of the crisis, there is a whole new set of risks to take into account. How will social distancing affect treatment of clients? How do I protect vulnerable staff? What PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) will be required? What disinfecting measures do I need to take? Your employees are also likely to need more reassurance that they are working in a safe environment. The crisis does not remove your obligation to provide training to staff on how to minimise health & safety risks, or the obligation to keep accident records. For all these reasons, health & safety is going to inform all business decisions as we emerge from the crisis.
Business Tips
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Comeback The next step is to focus on your comeback and getting ready to wow your clients. Shift your marketing now to show interest and support in your clients. Stay on their radar so that when you announce you are reopening, they haven’t forgotten about you. People are going to crave connection after the lockdown, so you must be their first choice when they are finally able to go out and buy services again. Be helpful and people will always want to buy from you. Factor your suppliers into your reopening and business recovery plans. They may be very willing to assist with brand events and promotional days.
Team morale Your team morale will likely be down due to market and job uncertainty, so you must communicate with your team members regularly. You need them on board with both your shortterm and long-term salon goals. Everybody in the business has to believe that their livelihood is based on the quality of the services they deliver and the products you are selling. Celebrate the wins and hard work. This will rebuild morale, keeping everyone motivated and the days exciting.
Minefield
Customer experience
All of this could become overwhelming so accept that this is not your area of expertise. Health & safety can be a minefield that’s too difficult to navigate alone. If you can, invest in expert professional support so that you have confidence that you and your business are meeting all the criteria required.
Review your customer service standards. Standing out from the crowd is important because the customer experience will be an even more competitive battleground than previously, and your clients have a lot of choice. It is necessary that you send out a very clear message that your salon is here to stay and you are great at what you do. Learn
to positively differentiate your business from your competitors – providing outstanding customer service is the key to this.
Planning Set priorities, timelines and recovery operations. Start thinking about your salon’s financial potential in relation to occupancy and productivity. Allocate time to review salon reports and identify where your business could have been doing better, and plan to accomplish this on reopening. Have long-term recovery plans ready, as you will have an influx of clients once your door opens, but make sure all those clients are so impressed that they are in for the long haul with you, thereby guaranteeing you a steady financial recovery path. 2020 is a different world now – you need to accept this and steer your boat accordingly. 21st century entrepreneurs not only come up with great ideas, they act on them and take the lead. Seize the day – this will be about the survival of the fittest. Clients don’t need more negativity. Instead, they will naturally gravitate to the people, salons and brands who are positive about what is happening…….be that positive person. You are the engine and the driving force behind your business. Get ready for your ‘rise again’ moment. PB
Liz McKeon is an author, business coach, trainer & mentor, specialising in salon turnaround. liz@lizmckeon.com
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Tips
16
How
emotionally agile are you?
Comments such as, ‘we in this together’ and ‘be positive’ are being thrown around social media during the COVID-19 pandemic. But what does being ok look like? LAUREN GIBSON provides the answers.
A
s human beings we decide to put on a brave face (usually because our upbringing informed us that expressing your feelings was not ok) and be happy. However, encouraging yourself to ignore feelings of self-defeat and rather focusing on fake happiness often means we negate all emotions, including the negative ones, and this doesn’t allow for an increase in self-awareness, self-development and growth. The founder of Spanx, Sara Blakely, speaks fondly about her father and how he used to ask the family every evening at the dinner table: “So, tell me how you failed today?” Now most parents and people would be horrified by that question. How is that encouraging your children or partner? It all depends on your emotional agility and how you view the question. In Susan David’s book, ‘Emotional Agility’, she writes about ‘The Seesaw Principle’, which is the ability to be thrown off balance and quickly correct. Some people would call that resilience, but that’s another story altogether.
Delicate balance Emotional agility is the ability to find the balance between competence and challenge, without the anxiety of being perfect. online @ probeauty.co.za
The question quoted above by Sara Blakely’s father speaks to the ability to feel encouraged to stumble but learn from the downfall and correct your next steps with care and growth. Emotional agility is about growth and stability, but it is also about new difficulties and learning how to embrace them, springboard off them and be where you are right now. This could be a good, positive and strong day, or it could be a ‘hide under the duvet day’. And both are perfectly acceptable – as long as the hiding days don’t outweigh the positive days, otherwise it may be a good idea to seek a professional’s help. The COVID-19 pandemic has ignited self-critical evaluation of oneself. Some of us made a list of activities to action in lockdown and we have either done most of them, or hardly touched them. Don’t beat yourself up if you haven’t done anything – the body responds to trauma in a unique way (yes COVID-19 is a trauma) as it is stress trapped within the body. So every day will be different for you and for the next person.
Top tips Below are the most important tips to maintain your emotional agility in times of a pandemic. • Do what you can. • Rework a routine (if routine works for you). • Try to accept difficult emotions without beating yourself up. This could be anger, disappointment, fear and more. • Be aware of your internal conversation. This is the ‘voice inside your head’. Try to stimulate the five senses when you wake up every morning as a centring practice. Take three deep breaths and then look for five things around you, touch four things close to you, listen to the sounds of three things, try to smell two things, and taste one thing. PB Lauren Gibson has over 15 years of experience in the professional skincare industry. Having been in strategy and management for the last six years with Dermalogica, she is passionate about coaching, self-care and forward thinking in businesses. Gibson has completed her PG Diploma in Management Practice with UCT GSB and looks forward to a new career internationally. laurenleigh.gibson@gmail.com
17 Business Tips
The
COVID-19 Business Abnormal Checklist As South Africa begin a slow opening of the beauty and wellness sectors other countries remain in lockdown, there are a few business ‘musts’ that all owners and managers should focus on, writes MARISA DIMITRIADIS.
M
y first bit of advice is to stay in touch with your clients. I cannot emphasise how important this is and that the messages you convey be appropriate and show you truly care. In strict lockdown, the communication should be of a caring and ‘how can I help you?’ nature. A fun, short video clip with messages from all your staff to your clients will go a long way to maintaining and solidifying the relationship. You can also engage with clients in communications that ask for feedback to make them feel a part of your business and to give their input regarding how they feel about your business. Now you can do treatments, your communication to clients should be very personalised and targeted to help them with their specific skin and body goals. > online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Tips
18
Once all initial grooming needs have been sorted out after lockdown is lifted is where the real challenge of keeping your beauty business alive will arise. If you are communicating regularly with your client, this challenge will be much easier because you know exactly what they need and want, and can tailormake the service to suit them specifically. Personalisation is the only way forward; one size fits all treatments are a thing of the past.
SOPs Adjust your SOPs (Standard Operating Procedures) to conform to the highest possible hygiene & sanitation practices. SOPs are the bible of any business. If you don’t have any SOPs in place, it’s time to get serious about your business and get an SOP manual implemented. The Spa Professionals Guild has a template with over 50 different SOPs to use as a template to build your own procedures manual. Again, there is no one size fits all here but the fact that you have to start somewhere is real and necessary.
online @ probeauty.co.za
COVID-19 prevention SOPs are not negotiable and the sooner you implement and train your team the better. If you are still in strict lockdown, use this time now to train your staff and ensure to book time with them in the salon (lockdown regulations permitting) before you open to clients, to train and check that they are following procedure. The Spa Professionals Guild has a COVID-19 Sanitation & Hygiene Guide that is vital to ensuring
that you are prepared to start performing treatments in a safe and controlled manner. This guide has signage templates and all SOP templates for COVID-19 prevention, from taking bookings to performing a treatment on a client to the post treatment follow-up. Please do not leave implementing these SOPs to the day or two before you open up as it will be too late. The adjusted way of doing things has not yet become habit so all staff and clients are going to find it a little uncomfortable at first. Therefore, the better prepared and trained your staff are, the easier things will flow.
VIP list Have you started a VIP list yet? It was chatting to my father’s barber in Spain after they were allowed to reopen that gave birth to this idea, because he was traumatised and said he didn’t know what was worse – going into lockdown or coming out of it. He described what he was experiencing as chaotic. He couldn’t keep up with the demand for bookings and wished he had a system in place to avoid the trauma of not being able to help clients when they wanted a booking.
Drawing up a VIP list is pretty simple. If you are still in lockdown, or if you are about to reopen, you start a list without dates or times of what services clients want to book for when you are allowed to open. Your first communication is simple – you inform clients that you are going to start a VIP list and when you are ready to reopen, you will be in contact and book clients from the top of the list first. Once they have responded and let you know what treatments they wish to have, then you upsell them to include another one or two treatments, as the idea is to keep the client in the salon for as long as possible, doing numerous treatments to keep the added sanitation expenses under control. There is power in this VIP list as it will indicate to you what services your clients are desperate for and also what state of mind they are in. This VIP list will also help you in creating a post lockdown treatment menu to fill the lag that will happen after the initial rush of bookings. Yes, you are going to very busy when you reopen but that will not last, as once clients have that initial void filled, there will be a dip and how big and long that dip is depends on how carefully you structure your post lockdown treatment menu.
Strengthen your online presence Online sales globally have seen an increase in over 200% over the same period last year and this is to be expected as people have been restricted to shopping online. If
Now is the time to optimise your website; add features such as virtual online consultations with your skin somatologist, add a shopping feature, update blogs and get short video clips loaded to engage with your clients and attract new people to your business. this is not incentive enough for you to get your online presence optimised, then there will never be one. Now is the time to optimise your website; add features such as virtual online consultations with your skin somatologist, add a shopping feature, update blogs and get short video clips loaded to engage with your clients and attract new people to your business. Are you selling gift vouchers online? Are you taking bookings online? Get your social media platforms upgraded and post meaningful comment to engage with the audience. Now is the time to ensure that you are prepared for the future of online.
Restructure your business Use this time to look at everything in your business, starting with your expenses. Analyse every
Business Tips
19
single line item and decide whether it is crucial and necessary, or if you can put it on hold for a few months. With regards to the absolutely necessary expenses, go and negotiate them with every single supplier and service provider. Cut your expenses down to the bone in order to boost profit, as there is no other way to do this right now. Work on a strategy to increase retail sales and implement a strong and efficient virtual online consultation programme with your team. Speak to your brand partners and negotiate better margins and stronger staff incentives to assist you to boost profit.
Grouped roster system You will need to look at creative ways to remunerate your staff as this too will need to change to accommodate the COVID-19 market place, where you have to cut the number of clients you allow in your space, as well as ensure you have a grouped roster system in place. A grouped roster system is necessary in the event that one person in one group becomes infected, the second group can continue to work whilst the first group isolates. If you do not group your staff and rotate them, you run the risk of being completely closed again for a period of between 14 to 21 days if one person becomes infected. Last but not least, I will leave you with this thought – become obsessed about succeeding in your business. PB Marisa Dimitriadis if the founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za
online @ probeauty.co.za
Product Focus - PPE
20
safe haven Creating a
As salons and spas prepare to operate post COVID-19 lockdown, there is a host of PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) on the market to meet the needs of the enhanced safety & hygiene protocols necessary to curb the spread of coronavirus.
Clean Screen Blue Sky Distribution has come up with an architectural solution for salon PPE called Clean Screen. This is an almost invisible shield between client and therapist to ensure that no viruses are transmitted between the two during manicure treatments. Blue Sky has joined forces with a leading architectural joinery based in Sandton, Johannesburg to offer a 600mm Clean Screen for manicure stations.
073 053 8830
Disposable linen You can pamper your clients with safety by using the Milk Solutions Professional range of disposable, biodegradable luxurious spa linen. This hygienic solution was designed to keep clients warm during treatments, without compromising on quality or safety. Milk Solutions’s range of sheets, body, hand and face towels will give you and your customers peace of mind during these challenging times.
011 454 8119
Vapoural San Manufactured in Italy and used extensively during the pandemic in Europe, Decomedical Vapoural San sanitisers have a double action. The main action is the vaporisation of hydrogen peroxide. The Vapor-Phase Hydrogen Peroxide (VPHP) is registered by the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) as a sterilising agent and recognised as a disinfectant product by the major guidelines of pharmaceutical world. Available from Radiant Healthcare, the Decomedical sanitisers’ action/benefit is enhanced by the UV-C lamp activation for ozone production with an additional germicidal effect.
011 794 8251/3
online @ probeauty.co.za
Product Focus - PPE
21 Fogger Looking Good LCN has introduced a new Fogging Machine to sanitise the salon work environment. It weighs 1.9kg and has a hose length of 1.5m. The fogging liquid is non-toxic and deemed safe for topical use and ingestion. It has been coronavirus tested by Analytical Lab Group, Eagen, MN, USA (preliminary report dated 30 April 2020), is 100 x more powerful than bleach, and contains no salt or bleach. The liquid kills germs on contact by destroying their cell walls. Medically registered, the liquid can also be applied in a humidifier and any type of glass or thick type of plastic spray bottle.
010 593 3293
3 in 1 In response to the concerns of the community in light of COVID-19, The Laser Beautique and Beautique Brands are distributing a 3 in 1 Disinfectant, Temperature and Metal Detector. This machine is perfect for ensuring safety in all businesses and is available for rent or purchase. It comes with an APP functionality, where people can scan a QR code as well as a system that records their information, ultimately creating a database. The machine also includes API capability. It features infrared thermography with an automatic fever alarm, and a disinfection system in the form of an induction spray.
0861 850 851
Sneeze Guard & Face Mask Bio Sculpture has launched two COVID-19 PPE products, the first being a Perspex Sneeze Guard that can be used as a partition between manicure stations, as well as between nail technician and client during treatment services. The second product is a 3-layer cotton cloth mask with a wire nose piece for technicians. Proceeds of the sale of the mask will go to the Bio Sculpture International Foundation.
051Â 943 0377
online @ probeauty.co.za
Interview
22
Talking to‌
Linda Sinclair
JOANNA STERKOWICZ spoke to LINDA SINCLAIR, CEO designate of the Sorbet Group of beauty and nails salons and drybars, in early June about the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic and plans for the future. The COVID-19 national lockdown has been catastrophic for the beauty industry. How has it affected the Sorbet business? While we are all feeling the effects of the lockdown, we are able to assist our franchisees and citizens with vouchers and partial waivers of fees. How has the Sorbet head office kept busy during the lockdown and what sort of support have you offered to franchisees? Sorbet Group has provided R7 million during May and June to approximately 3,500 employees of its franchisees in the form
of food vouchers. Employees received vouchers to the value of R1,000 a month for two months and we will re-assess the situation after June, depending on the status of the lockdown. We have been working hard to design additional hygiene and social distancing measures for when we reopen. Additionally, we have responsibly added our voice to engagements with Government regarding the reopening of the industry. Sorbet head office is in daily contact with our franchise owners who share with us the experiences of hardship and
fear from employees, who have significantly reduced income. The response from employees to the relief measures has motivated to us to continue engaging Government about a responsible reopening of the industry. This is much more than just us going for manicures and hair treatments. This is about the thousands of women and men who have been really hard-hit because they cannot earn a living. How has the Sorbet Group kept the brand in the mind of the consumer? We have bee providing online tutorials and information to our clients to continue their selfcare and at-home treatments. In addition, we are also talking to our online community on a daily basis and providing them with tips on how to cope through lockdown and with product information and industry updates. What post-lockdown COVID-19 hygiene & sanitisation measures have you put in place? There is nothing more important to us than the health and wellbeing of our guests and staff. Before COVID-19,
online @ probeauty.co.za
Sorbet’s stringent hygiene protocols formed the bedrock of operating a salon. However, we are implementing a list of in excess of 20 additional hygiene and social distancing protocols. Firstly, before opening, a small team will be sent in to deep clean each store. All employees will be trained on hygiene protocols prior to re-opening and on the impact of COVID-19 in the workplace. Training will take place online and employees will need to pass an examination prior to being ready to trade. Each store will have a ‘hygiene ambassador’ to ensure that all hygiene protocols are strictly adhered to daily. Protective Perspex screen dividers will be placed between customers, nail technicians, beauty therapists, hair stylists, barbers, at the wash basins and front desk. The number of employees per store at any given time will be limited by introducing a shift system to limit the potential spread of infection and reduce the number of employees travelling to work each day. Employees will wear face masks, protective visors and gloves with every treatment. Employees will sanitise their hands regularly and in between treatments and all workstations will be thoroughly sanitised at the start of the day, and in between each treatment and/or customer. The number of customers in the salon will be limited by staggering all bookings to allow for enough spacing between workstations in line with the social distancing guidelines of 1.5m to 2m (i.e. one workstation to remain open while another is in use).
Interview
23
How many stores are still owned by Sorbet? We have three companyowned stores – Morningside, Hartbeespoort and Tygervalley. The vast majority of Sorbet stores are owner-managed by individual women who are empowered and supported as entrepreneurs and who provide employment for people who would not normally have these opportunities. Why do you think the Sorbet brand has proved so enduringly successful in the market? The Soul of Sorbet is the spine of our business. This is what we are built on and around. We love what we do and we love who we are: world-class beauty professionals that care.
We don’t have customers – we have guests. People come first at Sorbet, our guests are valued by us and our service excellence is an industry benchmark. We currently have in excess of 600,000 loyalty members, a number which is steadily growing. The Sorbet business model was also specifically developed with franchising in mind. We work hard to put our franchisees at the centre of our focus and purpose, cultivating a sincere and supportive franchisorfranchisee relationship. Importantly, Sorbet provides employment and skills to thousands of women and men who come from underresourced communities and who may not have had the opportunities to become beauty professionals. PB
How many Sorbet salons are there currently? Launched in 2005 with our full salon format, we have since grown to over 220 salons countrywide (and are still growing) with five different formats, namely Full Sorbet Salons, Sorbet Nail Bars, Sorbet Drybars, Sorbet Man and Candi & Co.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Spa Focus
24
R
egarding safety and hygiene in the spa post lockdown, Rocco Bova, GM of Chable Resort, noted that a few days before reopening, a certified company will come onto his property to fully sanitise and fumigate the entire resort to ensure it is free of any bacteria or viruses. Bova continued: “We will be sending a detailed questionnaire to all our guests that have a booking, to inform us if they have been in contact with people who have been infected with the virus, or if they themselves have had the virus. This will act as a kind of self-certification to ensure our guests are healthy. It will also provide peace of mind to us, as well as the local authorities, that all travellers coming to the resort are healthy.” He noted that team members will be provided with PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) while working and that the resort will continue with training on taking the necessary steps to avoid contamination. Eduardo Finci, president of Asociacion Americana de Spa (Argentina) has set up the following hygiene rules for the spa guest’s appointment day. 1.Allocate a space where the guest can: • Sanitise their skin with a chlorinated solution.
online @ probeauty.co.za
The Professional Beauty Group’s recent online WORLD SPA & WELLNESS (WSW) CONFERENCE shared insights from experts around the world relating to restarting spas post COVID-19 lockdown. • Sanitise their hands with alcohol in gel or wash with water and soap. • Sanitise their belongings with 70% liquid alcohol. • Store their belongings securely. 2. Disinfect between clients, including everything that the client might have touched. 3. Intensify cleanliness in general (i. e. floor cleaning and laundry). 4. Intensify disinfection of all work materials.
To glove, or not to glove The issue of whether therapists should wear gloves during treatments was
discussed during the WSW online conference. Spiros Gaitanidis, spa director of Sani Hotel and Ikos Resorts in Greece, reminded everyone that, according to the US’ CDC (Centres for Disease Control and Prevention), because COVID-19 is a respiratory disease, there’s no evidence that the virus can be spread by perspiration. He continued: “As per the current knowledge and information from the WHO (World Health Organisation), the coronavirus spreads primarily from person to person through small
droplets from the nose or mouth, which are expelled when a person with COVID-19 coughs, sneezes, or speaks. These droplets are relatively heavy, do not travel far and quickly sink to the ground. People can catch COVID-19 if they breathe in these droplets from a person infected with the virus. These droplets can land on objects and surfaces around the person such as tables, doorknobs and handrails. People can become infected by touching these objects or surfaces, then touching their eyes, nose or mouth. Therefore it is important to wash hands regularly with soap and water, or clean with alcohol-based hand rub. It is, however, worth mentioning that therapists wearing gloves can make guests feel more secure and relaxed during a treatment.” George Tavelis, owner Sanctum Fitness & Spa and president of the Cyprus Spa Association, said his therapists have been trained
to follow the proper steps for medical hand hygiene, both before and after each treatment. “This will ensure risk-free body massages without the use of gloves. As an additional precaution, our therapists have been instructed to change their uniform regularly within the same day.” Julien Patty, founder & CEO of Deep Nature in France, agreed that washing hands is sufficient. “Nonetheless, we will provide gloves to our staff and leave it to them or the guests to decide.” Bova added: “From all my readings on the subject, there is no proof or evidence that taking a massage with gloves will reduce or eliminate the risk of getting infected. Logically it does not make sense if respiratory droplets cause the virus transmission. However, our therapists will wear masks and offer the use of gloves if guests feel more comfortable.”
Testing and temperature readings There has been lots of talk in the spa community about regular testing of staff to ensure they are virus-free. Bova does not think that this would be either effective or realistic. “Even if I provide tests for all staff members on a particular day, they may become infected the next day. So in reality we should be testing everyone every day but I’m not sure that this is the way to go. “What we do though is to take staff temperature readings on arrival and ensure we identify anyone with symptoms and advise them to stay home in case they feel sick or display any of the COVID-19 symptoms as indicated by the WHO.” PB
Spa Focus
25
The WSW online conference sessions were moderated by Tip Touch International’s Jean-Guy de Gabriac, founder of World Wellness Weekend, and Professional Beauty Group CEO, Mark Moloney.
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Skincare
26
Is
de-stressing the answer to
healthy skin? The skin and the brain develop from the same layer of cells in the human embryo and are intimately linked throughout life. Healthy skin is, therefore, a product of a skincare routine and a stress-free state of mind, writes DR ERNST EISELEN, MBCHB, FRACGP.
C
onscious and subconscious parts of the brain are both involved in the production of stress. As a consequence of the brain activity, it is scientifically shown that the endocrine systems become involved at all levels and that hormones can have profound, direct and indirect effects on the skin.
How does stress affect the skin? It is shown that blood flow through the skin of a stressed person is not at its optimal, and can thus disrupt the oxygen and nutrient supply to the skin. Persistent stress can automate the nerve impulse pathways, as our brains learn the patterns that are most often repeated. Increased stress hormones can reprogramme the skin into ‘survival mode’ and skin cells focused on survival are not attuned to thrive and function optimally. Skin can become stressdamaged over prolonged periods. online @ probeauty.co.za
Can these effects be corrected? Fortunately, the answer is yes on two different levels. Firstly, there is a need to recognise the elements of stress in one’s life and find a means of managing them in a positive manner. Sometimes, this may be small and simple lifestyle changes, but at other times it may require life-altering moves to get rid of the excessive stress. For most people cultivating a simple habit of regular exercise and improved periods of rest and reflection will help to de-stress and balance the hormones responsible for the negative changes. Specific exercises where attention is focused on breathing, stretching and toning go a long way to defuse stress-hormone storms. When it comes to skin itself, the aim is to ensure that it is rich in the crucially important nutrients, like vitamins A, C and E, to help improve the skin’s ability to withstand the onslaught of stress hormones and the altered patterns of stimulation brought about by the stress.
The only possible counterapproach to this phrenetic pace we live within, is to understand the importance of relaxation and spontaneous, quiet contemplation for the body and mind. Skin should also be allowed to rest from the stress and physical environmental challenges, and we should be providing real nutrition to skin cells based on sound scientific principles. It is therefore important to see the skin as an integral part of a total system which needs destressing on a total body level. In this new age, the mind-body balance and macro and micro nutrition will be key to optimal function of all body parts into a healthy old age. Not least of all, will be the need to do this for healthy skin. PB Dr Ernst Eiselen, MBChB, FRACGP, a South African who has lived in Australia for many years, acts in the capacity of medical advisor for Environ. Together with Environ founder, Dr Des Fernandes, Ernst has co-written many books and articles with on the topic of Vitamin A.
Anti-ageing actives
27
THE NEXT
frontier
While aesthetic treatments such as toxins and dermal fillers continue to gain in popularity in the anti-ageing skincare sector, there is no substitute for topical products formulated with specialised ingredients designed to give skin an age-defying boost.
A trio of peptides Environ’s Focus Care™ Youth+ Range contains various combinations of scientifically researched ingredients that may assist in delivering youthenhancing benefits. By adding the Youth+ Range to Environ’s daily Vitamin Step-Up System™ regime, you can help your client’s skin to look visibly younger and smoother for longer. The peptide combinations found in the Youth+ Avance Moisturiser are unique to Environ. This luxurious, multifunctional cream contains a trilogy of peptide complexes – Matrixyl® 3000, Trylagen® and Matrixyl® Synthe 6®,
with additional moisturisers and vitamin E. Matrixyl® 3000 is known for restoring the skin’s metabolism of youth, and its anti-ageing and antiwrinkle efficacy is very well known. It is the first anti-ageing ingredient based on the matrikine peptide technology, plus its efficiency has been demonstrated as illustrated in the following study: a clinical study using female panellists demonstrated that after just two months of treatment with Matrixyl® 3000, the surface occupied by deep wrinkles was reduced by 45%, and the skin’s tonicity increased by nearly 20%. Trylagen® stimulates the synthesis of collagen I, II and I, and controls the dimensions of the fibres, while inhibiting enzymatic degradation. Matrixyl® Synthé 6® stimulates six major constituents of the skin matrix and the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), ensuring an optimal
architecture of the skin tissue. In vivo studies demonstrated that, after two months, the forehead and crow’s feet wrinkles are visibly smoothed from the inside of the skin. What is the secret behind the success of peptides? Wrinkles and dry skin and all their consequences are the ‘wounds’ that time inflicts on our skin; the sun and the environment only accelerate the process. So wound healing became the focus of tissue research, and the skin is a wonderful model to study wound healing. Matrikines, or extracellular matrix-derived peptides, are exact replicas of natural skin matrikines. Peptides act like cell messengers able to regulate the sequence of events required for skin matrix repair (hence the name) and many other specialised functions. >
online @ probeauty.co.za
Anti-ageing actives
28 Lifting serum
NeoStrata’s Skin Active range targets all visible signs of ageing and is ideal for a variety of skin types. This specialised collection features choices for repair and firming needs. Products are designed to help diminish the appearance of visible expression lines and wrinkles, and improve loss of firmness and sagging skin. Each is formulated with potent, high quality performance-driven ingredients proven to work, including retinol, Aminofil® and NeoGlucosamine®. The Skin Active Tri-Therapy Lifting Serum is a silky serum formulated with a proprietary triple anti-ageing complex to help volumise sagging skin, renew skin tone and smooth rough texture, while improving overall signs of photo-damage. For the best results, it should be used in combination with other products in the Skin Active range. It is not suitable for sensitive or rosacea skins. NeoStrata’s Skin Active Intensive Eye Therapy is a richly formulated, deeply hydrating eye cream that targets puffiness and crow’s feet, helping to smooth fine lines and wrinkles around the delicate eye area. It is recommended for mature, sun-damaged skin but also for those with early signs of ageing in the eye area.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Retinol While retinol has long been touted as a superior skincare active in the fight against ageing, as an ingredient it is often associated with skin dryness and irritation, especially noted with regular use and at higher concentrations. DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care offers all the benefits of retinol, without the high risk of side effects, within the DermaFix ACC Retinol +, incorporating new science with the addition of the ingredient, Cylasphere® Retinol. Cylasphere® is of plant origin, obtained with a technology of encapsulation of retinol in microcapsules. This allows for a slow release into the skin for improved bioavailability, efficacy, and a gentler use. DermaFix ACC Retinol +
stimulates the fibroblast, helping to thicken the dermis for a visibly firmer and younger-looking skin. This revolutionary serum offers superior skin revitalisation with the inclusion of vitamin C (ascorbyltetra-2hexyldecanoate), hemp seed oil and rambutan lychee leaf extract. The latter helps mature skin to rejuvenate through biological pathways similar to those of retinol, while studies have shown both an improvement in skin elasticity and a reduction in wrinkles.
Marine algae Thalgo La Beauté Marine has launched the first marine peel, rich in acids from fermented MMA (Micronised Marine Algae), the cornerstone and original patent of Thalgo. This fermented MMA is titrated into lactic acid, which progressively renews skin quality, for a ‘new skin’ effect that’s visible from the first treatment. Age, the environment (repeated exposure to sun
and pollution) and lifestyle (smoking, alcohol) lead to slower epidermal skin renewal. Skin quality gradually deteriorates, encouraging the appearance of the visible signs of ageing, namely wrinkles, enlarged pores, dull skin tone, and lack of plumpness and firmness. Thalgo’s marine peel is a progressive and customised method – ranging from a one-off treatment shot, to a three week course for a more intense treatment. With a signature marine scent, this range denotes both the sea and the technical sophistication of the formula.
Inspired range The inspiration for the Nimue Age Intelligent range is based on the ‘OMICS Science of Ageing studies’, which revealed that in addition to your age, factors such as lifestyle, the environment and your genetics have an impact on the visible signs of ageing. Nimue now brings you a high performance range of skincare products with a smart and futuristic treatment approach to improve ageing and influence skin health positively. The range is backed by superior ingredients and Nimue’s unique hybrid delivery system, which allows for penetration within the deeper layers of the skin to deliver clinically proven results. Key ingredients are chicory root extract (repairs and moisturises); hydrolised myrtle leaf extract (restores a functional barrier); calendula flower extract (assists with
softening wrinkles); shitake muchroom extract (reduces appearance of wrinkles); and collagen booster peptides (increases collagen and elastin). The Age Intelligent range includes Cleansing Cream, Eye Serum, Face Serum, Neck & Decollete Cream, Day Cream and Night Cream.
Integrative approach Fontis Organic Skinfood believes in the sophistication of nature’s laboratory. It offers whole ingredients with actives that are supported by other natural components and together they offer a more integrative approach to the skin. Anxiety and fear not only robs us from rational thinking, it releases toxins into our bodies that ages us prematurely. A 2013 study revealed that natural botanical fragrances like chamomile and lavender have shown to help bring about calmness. Fragrances pass through receptors in the nose to the limbic system, where emotions are centered. When combining the power of smell in a skincare formula you have a skincare product that is not only functional, but also therapeutic. Nature’s laboratory brings a host of benefits to the table, so while you apply it for one function, it brings other functionalities to the skin, as seen in anti-ageing plant polyphenols and the lesser-known antioxidant, centella Asiatica.
Plant polyphenol benefits include keeping the skin firm. In addition, it helps to reduce the physical signs of ageing and boosts the immune system, while activating anti-ageing genes. Centella Asiatica, as found in the Fontis Tranquility Hydration Mist, has been used for centuries in the East and it is also native to South Africa. It offers multiple benefits such as the improvement of photoaged skin, scleroderma, psoriatic arthritis and scabies. This active is also known to help with collagen synthesis.
Botanical products Beaucience Botanicals has been formulated to offer a cost effective essential skincare regime providing the fundamental key elements needed in a successful antiageing range. This is a user friendly range that offers nature’s fuss-free solutions to healthy, radiant and beautiful skin, whilst also minimising and delaying the effects of skin ageing. Botanicals includes Beaucience’s unique ingredient Proteasyl PW and natural ingredients such as organic extracts, pure essential oils and natural vegetable oils carefully selected for their particular properties and benefits to the skin. No harmful petrochemicals or artificial ingredients have been used. PB
online @ probeauty.co.za
Anti-ageing actives
29
Supplements
30
Feeding
skin the
from the inside
Not only a useful addition to a salon’s retail offering, nutritional supplements offer benefits for maintaining and enhancing a healthy complexion.
W
hen looking to improve your skin, it’s important to remember that it is an organ and a reflection of your inner health. So says Louise Pitot of holistic Johannesburg practice, Body Orchestra. She continues: “There
are many factors that can affect how you look. Poor food and lifestyle choices, pollution and stress can impact the skin and increase ageing. There’s no quick fix. Nothing can replace a good lifestyle and sooner or later, the effects show in the skin. “For your skin to look radiant and feel smooth and toned, it needs to be nourished by the very best
nutrients. Luminous skin also needs oxygen, sunshine, exercise and detoxification. Supplements can certainly support your skin by offering some key nutrients and antioxidants. They can alleviate the daily burden of toxins from your environment. Skin-nurturing supplements may just be the next step for your skin’s health.”
Hydrolysed collagen
other proteins that help structure the skin, including elastin and fibrillin. Glow From Within is also beneficial in preventing and treating acne (hormonal and nonhormonal), eczema and other skin conditions. Collagen is a major component of your skin and plays a role in strengthening skin. As part of the ageing process, the body produces less collagen, leading to dry skin and the formation of wrinkles. In order to prevent ageing in skin, it is imperative to supplement the collagen found in the dermis of the skin from within. The Motherkind Glow range is 96.7% pure collagen.
Marine collagen
From Motherkind Paris, Glow From Within comprises pure hydrolysed collagen peptides. By supplementing your skincare with this product, natural collagen production is stimulated and regenerated, reversing the ageing process and treating dryness. In addition, taking collagen supplements may promote the production of online @ probeauty.co.za
Thalgo Collagène 5000 is positioned as the first wrinkle correction food supplement that is highly concentrated in marine collagen (5,000 mg). Exceptionally active and quick-absorbing, this
supplement is rich in essential antifree radical nutrients to prevent ‘inflammageing’ (i.e. the chronic inflammatory process generated by oxidation which causes ageing). Collagen peptides are small molecules, 90% of which are digested by the body. One third of these peptides are found in the skin to restore the infrastructure of the dermis, stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin fibres and hyaluronic acid to smooth wrinkles. The Age Protect Complex in Collagène 5000 has 100% RDA (Recommended Dietary Allowance) in vitamin C (which neutralises free radicals) and 91% RDA in selenium (which destroys free radicals and protects cell membranes).
Sun smart Heliocare ® 360° Capsules are recommended to complement topical photo-protection (sunscreen) during the months when the sun is at its highest intensity and longest solar exposure. These capsules are especially beneficial in helping to protect those who are at high risk of skin cancer, pigmentation and skin ageing. They should not be used in place of a high factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen but to provide an extra layer of protection. Key ingredients include Fernblock+, a potent antioxidant from a tropical fern (polypodium leucotomos) native to Central America, which is rich in ferulic and caffeic acids. This unique and potent complex is able to provide efficient photo-immuneprotection, neutralise free radicals and repair damaged DNA in the cells with its unique repairing properties in the form of roxisomes. The added combination of vitamins C and E strengthens its photoprotective action. It also includes Bioshield System, a biomimetic melanin that mimics melanocytes and doubles the
strength of your own melanin. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) helps to protect against environmental aggressors. It also contains prebiotics, fibruline and bioecolians.
Vital addition The Vitality Skin Supplement from Fontis Organic Skinfood helps fight premature ageing and loss of elasticity. This plant-based superfood skin supplement contains a blend of botanicals that are powerful antioxidants and is polyphenol rich. Antioxidants fight free radicals that lead to premature ageing and dull skin, while polyphenols help to keep skin firm. Both are natural energy boosters. Nourishing skin form the inside with the Vitality Skin Supplement also has health benefits. This product is free from colourants, preservatives, flavourings and allergens.
derivative – is highly bioavailable for easy absorption. In fact, it’s 400% more bioavailable than other types of silica, and available in South Africa exclusively through Alexia Rich. Silica is derived from silicon, a key nutrient that assists one’s body to trigger the production of collagen, the glue that keeps us together. It is vegan friendly, not tested on animals, and contains no sweeteners or artificial flavours and colours. Taken orally, Alexia Rich’s boost in creation of collagen has numerous benefits for one’s body as it helps regenerate various essential connective tissues.
Brightening effect
Liquid silica Alexia Rich is a premium, natural collagen-boosting liquid supplement containing Orgono® Silica – a specific brand of silica that is clinically proven to be the only form of silica with almost 400% higher bioavailability than other silica supplements. Orgono® Silica – a quartz
Opalesce premium capsules contain powerful natural ingredients that have been shown to have significant positive effects on skin tone and appearance, including reducing dark marks and melasma. This is a 100% natural, non-toxic product containing no GMO or animal-derived ingredients. It is considered safe for all patients and can transform how they see themselves and how other see them. Opalesce is suitable for patients of all skin tones. It works as a natural sunscreen and melanin inhibitor, and can help prevent DNA damage. By providing enhanced sun protection, it can prevent the development of melasma and other skin-darkening conditions. These supplements are available from dermatologists without the need for consultation or prescription. PB online @ probeauty.co.za
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Aesthetic Medicine
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MILLION DOLLAR
exfoliation KAREN ELLITHORNE gives the lowdown on dermaplaning, a facial treatment that involves using a blade to exfoliate dead skin cells from the face.
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hen I first heard about dermaplaning, I was horrified at the fact that women were actually shaving their faces with blades. Did this not increase the amount of facial hair, I wondered? However, in reality, after I had my first treatment, I was pleasantly surprised with the result and how healthy and bright my skin looked. Dermaplaning is actually a very effective dermatologist backed treatment that effectively treats most of the daily issues we regularly see on our clients’ skins, namely dullness, wrinkles and breakouts. The reason that it is so effective is because it removes the superficial dead layers of the epidermis that naturally build up on the skin. The best thing about this treatment is that there is no recovery or downtime, which makes it really convenient to have. There are also no low pH acids administered during the treatment, so it is great for people who have sensitive or irritated skin.
What is dermaplaning? Also called blading or microplanning, dermaplaning uses a blade to exfoliate dead skin cells from the face, with the aim of making the surface of epidermis smooth, youthful and radiant. Some of the claims of the treatment include being able to remove deep scarring from acne and uneven pockmarks. While it is doing this, it also removes the fine superficial vellus hairs on the face. The tool that is used to perform the treatment is a sterile blade and the concept is very much like shaving. Aimed at a 45 degree angle, the blade is slowly dragged across the skin. The blade removes dead skin cells, scar tissue and other debris (like make-up) that have built up on the epidermis over a period of time. During the procedure itself, which takes around 30 minutes, your client will not experience any pain. Once the treatment is complete, it is popular practice to apply topical
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sodium hyaluronate, so that it can penetrate deep into the epidermis due to the fact that the superficial layers of skin have been removed. Dermaplanning, with the addition of sodium hyaluronate, be it in mask or serum form, is what is often referred to as ‘a million dollar facial’ on social media. If the client’s skin is sensitised, you can apply aloe to soothe it immediately after the dermaplaning is complete. It is also possible to apply a chemical peel or laser treatment on the skin immediately after the procedure. This will make the peel or laser treatment more effective as it will absorb more deeply into the layers of the skin. Dermaplaning itself is considered a low risk treatment that should only be administered by a dermatologist or a qualified medical aesthetician. Side-effects post treatment may include a slight redness on the face, which will dissipate an
hour or two after the treatment. The skin will be baby soft because of the removal of the facial hair and the client will notice that their foundation application is much smoother.
Can dermaplaning cause breakouts? Due to the fact that a build-up of dead skin can clog your pores and hair follicles, the client will actually experience the opposite result after a treatment. However, if the client has an active breakout, this treatment is not suggested. Dermaplaning is recommended for acne scarring, dull and dry skin, sun damaged skin and fine lines and wrinkles.
Will facial hair grow back thicker? This treatment will not make your facial hair grow back darker or thicker. Once the hair grows back, it may initially feel different and this is due to the fact that it has been cut straight across with a
blade. However, the actual the texture and growth will be the same as before once it has grown out. As with any exfoliating treatment, the skin will obviously be more sensitive to the sun so it is important to remind your clients about using an effective SPF. In conclusion, as long as your client’s skin is not sensitive or they are not experiencing active breakouts, dermaplaning is a low risk way to exfoliate the skin and remove facial hair whilst preparing it for further treatment. I loved the result on my skin and will certainly be having another treatment soon. PB
A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
Aesthetic Medicine
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34 Hair Removal
Smooth
sailing
The COVID-19 lockdown resulted in several weeks in which consumers could not seek professional machine-based hair removal services for their runaway body hair. Now that the sector is up and running again, PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY looks at some of the top hair removal devices on the market. Primelase Excellence According to distributor, Radiant Healthcare, the Primelase Excellence is the most powerful diode laser in the world. Says Radiant Healthcare’s Melissa Eksteen: “With a maximum power output guaranteed at 4800 Watt, this device provides the best performance and highest profitability on the market. The high power of the Primelase makes it possible to work with the Exclusive Ultra Short Pulse technology. Starting from 3ms, it allows the device to reach the optimal temperature that destroys the hair follicle without damaging the skin. “The Primelase is also safe for all skin types and treatments can be performed throughout the year. Treatments are painless, safe and effective. “Depending on the clientele, clinics can choose between four different applicators, namely
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the 755nm, the 810nm, the Nd: Yag and the Blend applicator, which is a 3-wavelength applicator in one, consisting of the 810nm, the 955nm and the 1060. The applicator is also guaranteed for 40 million pulses. There are four different spot sizes to choose from.”
Motus AY Suitable for hair removal treatments on all skin types, the Motus AY platform from DEKA, Italy, combines advanced high frequency Alexandrite 755nm with Nd:YAG 1064nm laser sources. Says Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers: “The Alexandrite 755nm wavelength is universally recognised as the most effective hair removal, especially for light and/ or fine hair. Motus AY is equipped with the Moveo handpiece, which was developed by DEKA to overcome limitations and difficulties of the traditional Alexandrite
Nordlys for hair removal, while retaining all the advantages. Thanks to its exclusive technology, the Moveo handpiece doubles the laser energy transmission to the skin” She notes that Moveo has a contact cooling sapphire tip that drastically reduces the amount of energy reflected by the skin. “Furthermore, the Moveo technology uses simple, even movements over specific areas, removing unwanted hair. The repeated passes over small areas cause gradual heating of the vital parts of the hair, leading to its destruction in a way that is totally painless for the patient and without sideeffects such as burning or discolouring.” The Nd:YAG source at 1,064 nm completes the system by adding a wavelength which penetrates deep inside the skin.
Distributed by Radiant Healthcare, Nordlys, featuring Ellipse technology by Candela, uses exclusive selective wavelength technology with dual filters to deliver narrowband IPL to the target tissue, filtering out any potential unnecessary wavelengths. The narrowband also enables the operator to use less energy than many other IPL systems, allowing for maximum comfort to the patient, whilst enabling the highest efficacy for the treatment performed. The system carefully controls the amount of >
Hair Removal
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Hair Removal
36 energy, as well as access to sub millisecond pulse durations, and delivers the desired energy in the optimal waveband for the treatment. Using this Selective Waveband Technology, Ellipse has also ensured safety for all skin types, offering IPL not only for lighter phototypes using the HR 600 applicator, but also a safer and more specialised applicator HRD 645 for Fitzpatrick IV, V and VI.
and total control of both fluence and pulse duration for superior efficacy ensures that you can provide optimal settings for patients’ individual needs via a user-friendly, intuitive interface. The IPL hair removal applicators available on the Venus Versa are safe and indicated for all skin tones.”
Elysion Pro
Venus Versa
Not only will an investment in the Venus Versa mean a topto-toe face and body service with other technologies on the same platform, but the IPL hair removal technology, combined with trademark design features by Venus Concept, makes it highly efficient in this crowded market. Says Thyrza Price of Venus Concept Africa: “Hair removal with the Venus Versa has been a top selling treatment for our clients across the country and the world, with excellent results and a consistent patient satisfaction rate over 90%. Superior cooling and applicators with either 3cm2 or 6 cm2 lenses for convenient access to all treatment areas make this a desirable choice for any business. “Real time cooling for exceptional patient comfort
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With a peak power of 2000W, a high fluence and ultra-short pulse, the Elysion Pro from Cocoon Medical is one of the most effective diode hair removal devices on the market. It has a choice of three different applicators and is suitable for all skin types. These treatments can be performed throughout the whole year. This powerhouse system achieves the elimination of cells that generate hair growth, while laser energy is delivered in ultra-short pulses without heating the epidermis, thereby protecting the skin. The Elysion Pro has a repetition rate between 3Hz – 15Hz, allowing for a speedy treatment.
Exilite From BTL, the Exilite™ is an exclusive intense pulsed light (IPL) system which provides excellent results through fast and comfortable
treatments. It uses one IPL handpiece only, which makes the capital expense less intensive for the buyer. Inserting a treatment specific filter into the handpiece determines which wavelengths will touch the skin and what type of treatments can be performed. The Exilite™ device can be adjusted according to specific skin types and skin conditions through its Intelligent Multipulse Mode allowing the device parameters, i.e. intensity, flash length and pause between multiple flashes, to be customised according to specific needs. Treatments are thus fast, effective and, ultimately due to the cooling of the sapphire spot, tolerable for the patients, which also implies minimal downtime. The BTL Exilite™ emits up to three pulses per second and is thus deemed to be one of the fastest IPL devices on the market. It employs a scientifically proven technology principle of yellow LED modular light, which is used to treat the skin area after the IPL procedure.
Soprano ICE Titanium Alma Lasers, distributed in SubSaharan Africa by Best Lasers, has
on investment will be achieved in a shorter period than expected as you are now receiving R1,700 every 15 minutes, compared to R1,700 every 35 to 45 minutes.” Alma has also launched a new Smart Clinic application that connects to any android or Apple devices. Smart Clinic allows the practice/ salon owner to know which treatment protocols are used the most, which practitioner is the most effective and which are the most popular applicators used on the system.
Electrolysis positioned the Soprano ICE Titanium laser as ‘hair removal reinvented’. The machine uses three different hair removal wavelengths simultaneously, meaning that with one pulse, the laser is targeting the skin at three different depths. “This, together with the patented In-Motion™ technology and groundbreaking -4*C contact cooling, makes results far more superior than on any other competitors’ device,” says Best Lasers’ Nicola Steenkamp. “In addition, the Titanium boasts unbeatable hair removal treatment times – between five to eight minutes for a full back treatment area. This means that your return
According to Janine Thomson of Lamprobe SA, electrolysis hair removal is the only permanent hair removal system that removes all hair, whatever its colour or strength. “Aesthetic practices, salons or spas that have an IPL or laser and an electrolysis device can most certainly offer their clients a comprehensive outcome. IPL or laser can be used on the larger areas, where the hair colour creates the perfect chromophore for that device. Electrolysis can be used for areas where hair still exists post laser or IPL, or smaller surface areas, or where hair is sparse. “The reason hairs may still exist post IPL or laser would be either because the hair has lost its pigment (grey), or some fairer hairs always existed amongst the darker more obvious hairs. Another reason is that the hair below the surface of the skin is light or fair, even though the hair extending from the skin may be dark. If you observe this and explain this to your clients, they will not have unrealistic expectations, and they will value your insight and knowledge. Electrolysis will remove all hairs despite the challenges. However,
electrolysis has received a bad name through the ages because the operators have not been executing the treatment effectively.” Thomson notes that there are three very important aspects to executing the treatment to obtain results every time: the direction of insertion of the probe into the follicle; the depth of insertion; and the intensity of the current.
Training Tanya Parsons, principal of Aesthetic Laser Academy, highlights the necessity for the proper training of therapists when using laser and light equipment. Says Parsons: “Very few beauty schools offer training in laser because it’s such an advanced discipline and because it would require them to invest in expensive equipment. For instance, the machine that we use in Aesthetic Laser Academy costs over R100,000. In terms of hair removal, you need a machine that can perform this treatment safely on all skin types. Some schools may say they offer training in laser and light equipment but it’s usually just a demonstration – so someone from one of the laser supply companies would come out and perform a demonstration, but the students don’t get to handle the equipment. “Our industry is not regulated, which means anyone can buy a laser online. I believe that therapists who do not understand how a laser works, and why it works, cannot administer treatments safely and effectively. Most therapists learn about using the laser equipment inhouse from another therapist, who may not be educated or qualified to provide training.” Parsons notes that the Aesthetic Laser Academy hair removal course is two days – one day theory and one day practical. Her team is also a service provider to Beauty Academy in Durban. PB
online @ probeauty.co.za
Hair Removal
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Salon Focus
38
cut ABOVE A
JOANNA STERKOWICZ talks to internationally acclaimed stylist, Candice McKay, about what makes her eco-conscious Johannesburg salon, Wyatt Hairdressing & Barbering, stand out in the market.
I
t was Candice McKay’s desire to work in a space that appealed to her personal aesthetic and which would, in turn, attract like-minded people, that prompted her to open her own salon. Wyatt Hairdressing & Barbering first opened in 2007, at the
perennially hip 44 Stanley precinct in Milpark. Today, the salon’s clientele comprises of what McKay describes as ‘the intellectuals of Johannesburg’, namely the thinkers, innovators, professors, artists, designers, lawyers and architects. She continues: “Our original location within 44 Stanley was a small loft, some 70 square metres in size, but after six years the salon had grown so much that my calm space felt overly cluttered and tight. So, we moved to a much larger space measuring 300 square metres, which was big enough to house our growing clientele and host a training academy as well. The building is actually an old factory from the 1940s, so there is tons of natural light and space, with very high ceilings.”
I believe that salons are not in competition with one another and that once you truly understand yourself as a brand and your brand values, you attract clients with the same aesthetic and values. online @ probeauty.co.za
McKay was initially attracted to 44 Stanley as a location when she first moved from Cape Town to Johannesburg. “At the time, I was freelancing for film and magazines and was doing a shoot at the apartments linked to 44 Stanley. During the lunch break, I saw that there were apartments for sale. By the following afternoon, I had purchased a loft. It was a natural progression for me to open a salon at 44 Stanley, because I try to follow a lifestyle that makes the least impact on the environment as possible and can walk to work. Also, 44 Stanley resonates with the clientele that I enjoy most.” When asked what makes Wyatt differentiate itself in a market jampacked with hair salons, McKay responds: “I believe that salons are not in competition with one another and that once you truly understand yourself as a brand and your brand values, you attract clients with the same aesthetic and values. As a salon, we always strive for excellence through advanced on-going education. I would say that the barbering side of Wyatt
accounts for approximately half of the salon’s business, and we also offer and are well trained in, ethnic hair services.”
Environmentally friendly Wyatt is positioned as an ecoconscious hair salon. Says McKay: “For us, being environmentally friendly is at the core of our values. Our space is very green. We only have LED lighting and are connected to solar power. Recycling is key to our operations; our leftover tint does not go down the drain but into the bin. We use products that last, such as stainless steel coffee mugs and glasses. Furthermore, we don’t use a coffee machine that draws a huge amount of electricity, but rather an AeroPress coffee maker. “All of the products we use professionally and for cleaning are environmentally friendly with a low component of chemicals. We have a paperless payment system and offer a paper carrier bag to clients for their purchases. In addition, we educate our clients on the small changes they can make in terms being more green.” It’s no coincidence that there are plants all over the salon, as McKay likes to bring the outdoors inside. She has created an entire green wall, which purifies the air and offers an oxygen rich environment in which to work. In terms of the salon’s décor, McKay tries to only source locally
Salon Focus
39 “For us, being environmentally friendly is at the core of our values. Our space is very green.” made furnishings. She has opted for very neutral tones that create an open and calm feeling in the salon, as she finds that her staff and clients are ‘colourful enough’. “I wanted an interior that would not date quickly and would stand up to our very strict cleaning routines. My taste tends to be very minimalistic and graphic. Our space has actually really grown over the years.”
The Academy In terms of the Wyatt Academy, McKay mostly teaches the classes herself and on average, during a single year, would train between 1,600 and 2,000 students, both locally and abroad, but mostly abroad. She travels to teach about once every six weeks and there are usually 30 students per class, with anything from 100 to 5,000 in a show. “For this year, however, because of the COVID-19 crisis, I won’t be teaching locally but rather focusing on building my staff and salon clientele,” comments McKay. “It has been a tough time for us all and I feel I need to spend time with the colleagues that I care so much for.”
McKay is a member of the Davines International Artistic Team and uses the brand in her salon. She was attracted to Davines as they were the first environmentally conscious brand that she came across that could perform in the salon. “Their values are intrinsically aligned with mine. The first time I attended a Davines world conference, I realised I had found my tribe. I had always felt very different to other hairdressers who I have met, always like an outsider. But being amongst the Davines hairdressers, I realised how like-minded we were and I felt like I had come home,” concludes McKay. PB
Niches With 23 years of experience as a hair professional, McKay notes that she likes variety in terms of the services that she performs. “I find that as I grow, my niche changes. For instance, I used to do a lot of precision cutting and now that’s become my norm and my new niche is curly hair and organic cutting. I also find colour an intuitive process and like to come up with my own techniques.” online @ probeauty.co.za
Issue 33
June 2020
HANDLE WITH CARE
FLAIR FROM FRANCE
Treating oncology clients
The perfect French manicure
Mythbusters Hygiene facts & fiction
Nail Design Competition Welcome
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J
ust as this issue of NailFile was about to be published, we heard the long-awaited news that nail salons could finally open and offer Issue 33 June 2020 treatment services again. While this is wonderful news obviously, it means a whole lot of work has to be completed to meet Government’s requirements for compliance. In addition, salon owners, managers and staff will have to get used to a new way of offering treatments – with enhanced and very strict hygiene and safety protocols. In this issue of NailFile you will find an excellent article that separates the fact from fiction in terms of sanitisation, cleansing and disinfection – all three of which are necessary in the new normal that salons find themselves in. HANDLE WITH We received a buffet of fabulous entries for the NailFile Foodie Fantasies CARE Treating oncolog y clients Photographic Nail Design Challenge. The nail tips looked good enough to eat, literally. It’s clear that nail techs really indulged in their food fantasies for this particular competition! Hygiene facts & fi ction There are some useful articles to read in this issue, like how to create the perfect French manicure, and how to go about taking the perfect nailfie of your work.
FLAIR FROM FRANCE
Mythbuste rs
The pe French ma rfect nicure
Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
WHAT’S INSIDE
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Industry News
COVID-19
Techniques
Stay in the know
45 Ask the Experts
How do I create the perfect nailfie?
46 Specialised disciplines
Catering for oncology clients online @ probeauty.co.za
Defining the facts about hygiene & safety in the salon
52 Photographic Nail Design Challenge Graffiti street art
53 Style Savvy
The deep mid-winter
Going French
56 Step by Step
Ice cream cone with drip
58 Top Tech Talk Ané Snyman
43 News
NEWS
Information at your fingertips
Andrea Smith wins Foodie Fantasies nail competition The winner of NailFile’s Foodie Fantasies Photographic Nail Design Challenge is Andrea Smith, for her exquisite set of nails and superb step by step presentation. Sponsored by Bio Sculpture, the Foodie Fantasies competition attracted a slew of delightful entries. Judges placed Ané Snyman second, with third place a tie between Zelmari van Aswegen and Chantelle Ayres. Said the judges: “What an amazing assortment of delectable foods and treats presented by everyone! It was evident that lots of fun was had by all and that plenty of effort went into creating an array of different foods for the Foodie Fantasies theme, and interpreting the foods they love into their nail designs. “The winner, Andrea Smith, incorporated an amazing variety of very clever techniques and mediums to create her designs with in her interpretation of the theme, ‘A Taste of Europe’. Her love for sweet treats and international cuisine was her inspiration and is quite obvious and visible in each and every nail that she created. She had a very clear vision of her interpretation and the representation of each of the unusual treats from various parts of Europe that she created. They were absolutely spot on, with regards to colour and shape. The designs and different elements which were added, were technically brilliantly done, making each piece of food look like the real thing and completely edible. Andrea also created a fantastic presentation explaining exactly how each design was created, clearly outlining the different treats, as in where they originated from and what made them different.”
2nd place Commenting on Ané Snyman’s second placed entry, the judges stated: “Ane’s entry was brilliantly done and she represented her interpretation of the Foodie
Fantasies theme beautifully. Each piece was immaculately and perfectly created throughout. Her foods were depicted with absolute precision.” online @ probeauty.co.za
Nail Design Business Competition Trends News
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3rd place tie The judges had a tough time deciding on third place, as they were torn between two stunning entries, namely those of Zelmari van Aswegen and Chantelle Ayres. “Both designs offered something unique and different so we decided to tie both of them in third place,” explained the judges.
Special mention Nadia Stroh was given a special mention by the judges for her innovative interpretation of the Foodie Fantasies theme (i.e. the food fantasies of the biggest foodies in the cartoon word) and for her unusual use of a bubble technique. Proudly sponsored by:
KKR prevails in Coty deal American global investment firm KKR came out the winner in the deal reached for Coty Professional Beauty, including the OPI professional nail care brand. KKR’s Private Equity platform invests in and partners with industry-leading franchises and companies poised for significant improvement or growth. The strategic partnership involves the sale of a 60% majority stake in Coty’s Professional Beauty and Retail Hair Business, at a contemplated enterprise value of $4.3 billion. Coty will retain the remaining 40% interest in the business. Global research company, Kline, expects that the OPI brand will now seek greater retail and online sellthrough, as nail salon businesses have suffered some of the greatest closure casualties in the professional beauty market due to the COVID-19 pandemic and lockdown. online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Tips
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ask
the EXPERTS
QUESTION:
How do I create the perfect nailfie?
EMMA ROBYN Taking nail selfies that don’t look amateur is the Holy Grail for nail techs. Creating beautiful nail photos for social media, known as nailfies, can be difficult if you don’t know about the elements that make a good picture. Capturing the beautiful manicure you’ve created needs the right lighting, props and hand positioning to ensure it showcases your skills. 1. Prep and prime. Taking a good nailfie starts with the essentials – make sure your cuticle work is flawless, trim any hangnails and ensure you have a good base to start the manicure on. At the end of treatment, rehydrate the client’s skin with hand cream and don’t leave any excess product around the nails. For example, apply cuticle oil but dry wipe it with a clean lint-free pad, especially around the nail folds, as the oil tends to blur everything in photos. 2. Lighting is everything. Decent lighting will make all the difference to your pictures. As a mobile nail tech myself,
good lighting can be one of the biggest obstacles because I never know what environment I’m going into, so I always carry a daylight lamp or ring light in my kit. Failing that, natural light can really brighten up pictures so try to take snaps near a window. 3. Fine tune your nailfie with an app. Photo editing can enhance your snaps but don’t overdo it so the pictures look fake as you want clients to have realistic expectations of what you’re capable of. I edit my pictures using the Adobe Lightroom app, which is available on mobile, desktop and iPad. It’s great for reducing the redness in pictures so clients’ hands have an even skin tone and to pick out certain colours on the manicure and make them pop, especially if they’re not translating well on screen. 4. Bespoke your branding. All the big nail tech accounts on Instagram have their own vibe, so finding a style that’s distinctively you will make you
stand out on clients’ feed or get new customers to recognise your presence on the platform. Remember, a clean and simple background works wonders for pictures as it makes sure your audience isn’t distracted from the nails you’ve created. 5. Invest in props. This is something I don’t do often but should really do more of. I know a lot of talented and popular nail techs who have props on hand for photos, be it flowers, fur or even a branded crystal. I like to include props when they’re relevant to the manicure I’ve just done, such as using a flower when the client has had flower print nail art.
Emma Robyn is a mobile nail tech and spray tan specialist working in London. Check out her work on Instagram @ emmarobynnails.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Specialised Business Disciplines Trends
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Catering for oncology clients NailFile speaks to international educator and expert on the anatomy and pathology of the natural nail, TRACY ANNE SHELVERTON, about oncological hand and foot treatments. Tracy, tell us a bit about yourself. I am based in Elst in the Netherlands and my passion focuses on the nail itself and on maintaining and improving its integrity, whatever we build on top of it. Not all problems in the nail plate can be fixed by simply buying more nail products, and some nail problems can even by created by technicians who don’t know any better. If we don’t understand how the nail unit works, then we can throw cream cheese at it and still not solve the problem. online @ probeauty.co.za
When did you first become interested in hand treatments for oncology patients? It was the internationally recognised scientist, author and educator, Doug Schoon, who first got me interested in the natural nail and I love the man with a passion. The problem was that in our hand industry, the natural nail and its care wasn’t sexy. I decided to keep studying despite the fact that no-one paid attention to the natural nail, just to artificial nail products.
In pedicure land – the training is so different that cruising into the medical side of things wasn’t difficult. A few years ago, I heard Professor Mario Lacouture speak at an Oncology Foot Care Convention organised by Mischa Nagel. While I was thrilled to be exposed to all that knowledge and information about the feet of chemotherapy patients, I was also disappointed that there was nothing relating to the hands. In the meantime, I made Mischa’s acquaintance and the
story really starts there. In 2013, he discovered that while there were extensive protocols for foot care for diabetes and arthritis patients, there were none for cancer patients. What do the terms OHV and OVV stand for? OHV refers to an oncological hand care provider who is aware of the implications of cancer and its treatments, which enables him/her to start a safe and effective hand care protocol that complies with the treatment and has been approved by the treating oncologist, or the oncology nurse-specialist. OVV stands for Oncology Foot Care Provider. Do hand treatments for oncology patients include any kind of nail treatments? Some oncology treatment programmes take a long time so women, especially, will feel the need to have nail treatments. The hand care provider must be aware of the dos and don’ts in this regard. He/she must communicate with the oncology
In pedicure land – the training is so different that cruising into the medical side of things wasn’t difficult.
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team to get approval for the nail intervention. On the other hand, the nail technician might be the first to spot changes in the nail as a consequence of the cancer treatment. He/she must be able to communicate with the client and be able to refer him/her to the oncology team. The recognition of nail changes is one of the most important topics of that part of the course presented by an oncology-dermatologist, Dr Annemie Galimont. Are there any instances in which an oncology patient should not have any form of hand treatment at all? Yes, especially during chemotherapy when there are certain timeframes in which you are not allowed to do anything. This to minimise and prevent infection. Patients under chemotherapy treatment will undergo a period of lesser immunity, called neutropenic fase. It is advised during this period to avoid any treatment that might transfer micro-organisms, which can cause infection.
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Was it your initiative to create this kind of specialised training in Holland? There was no protocol for cancer patients, who as a result of side-effects from their treatments, suffered from severe foot problems. Mischa Nagel developed an educational programme for foot therapists, which gained international attention. He is currently working with authorities like Professor Mario Lacouture from the Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center in New York, which is the most advanced cancer clinic in the world. They have lectured together and written two scientific articles. Mischa developed the foot care curriculum further, because >
Specialised Disciplines
48 side-effects that affect the feet can also manifest to the hands and adversely affect the patient’s quality of life. He approached me to introduce this curriculum into the world of hand care, in which I have a central place in the Netherlands. We added my expertise to the curriculum with my specialist knowledge of the nails of the hands. Working with an expert team has made this possible. How long is the training programme and what topics do you cover? The training programme runs for 12 days. Included in the programme are two days of internship on an oncological ward in a hospital, and one day of exams. Our curriculum consists of the following themes: • What is cancer • The most common treatments • General side effects • Effects seen on the hands and the nails corresponding to the treatment, Neuropathy (which also affects the hands) • Oncology-psychology, as in which appropriate communication is right for which situation with patients • Onco-psychology to give care provider the necessary ‘tools” to protect him/her for the various intense situations • Disease-impact, quality of life, oncological hand massage and axillary lymph node dissection (ALND) • Case studies, professional communication, sharing the hospital experience with an oncology nurse specialist • The patient speaks: one or more cancer patients will share their experience • Safe manicure techniques and the importance of regular manicures Qualified OHV and OVV are obliged to re-study and update their knowledge every year. We also offer a programme for that.
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Have you found that the demand for this kind of training is increasing? Yes, we already have 31 qualified OHV oncology hand care providers and 353 OVV oncology foot care providers. By the way, OVV and OHV are protected titles that are registered by the Dutch comprehensive cancer center, IKNL. Do most of your oncology patients come to your salon? Mostly patients come on referral of their oncological team. All qualified OVV/OHV are registered in the digital national oncological referral guide. If need be, we can treat the patients in the hospital or care home.
It’s a new world we are working in, but an essential world, so we are thrilled that the Dutch cancer organisations recognise the need for it and how it improves the quality of life for the cancer patient. This is the first time in the world that this has happened, so we hope it’s the start of something great. Believe me, this is an amazing specialism in which to work.
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Defining the facts about hygiene & safety in the salon
The current threat of COVID-19 has made everyone far more aware and vigilant about their personal safety and that of others, especially in the salon. SONETTE VAN RENSBURG provides vital information about the correct infection control practices to prevent cross contamination.
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t’s all good and well having hygiene & safety protocols in place, however the key terms and steps for proper practices are often misused and incorrectly defined. Understanding and practicing proper infection control means carrying out appropriate procedures for the sanitisation and disinfection of every surface and item that comes into contact with you and your client, prior to and after each and every use. This is fundamental in creating a safe haven and space to work in. In this article we define and separate the facts from those that are not, and explain some of the terminologies.
The best is to have source capture ventilation in your salon to reduce and control dust, as viruses and bacteria can attach themselves to dust particles, which can then be inhaled. Soap was first invented centuries ago. Soap was in fact first invented in Babylonian days. It wasn’t until the 1800s that a doctor realised
that patients were far less likely to get infections if doctors diligently and thoroughly washed their hands prior to operating or treating their patients. Florence Nightingale also promoted the washing of hands. However, the Centre for Disease Control and Prevention only issued the first endorsed hygiene guidelines in the 1980s. Soap is considered more than just a means of personal protection as it protects everyone. Hand washing is the most effective way to reduce harmful organisms. Many nail techs believe that the washing of hands prior to a nail enhancement service will affect the application, > online @ probeauty.co.za
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causing the enhancements to lift. On the contrary, it will help prevent many problems that could occur and is the best hygiene practice you could enforce in the nail salon. During the course of the day, you and your client touch many objects you come into contact with, picking up all sorts of different micro-organisms from each other and quickly passing them from one surface to another. This is known as cross contamination. Washing and cleansing your hands thoroughly for 20 to 30 seconds with soap and water is a mechanical process and one of the most effective means to remove, or greatly reduce, disease-causing pathogens and microbes. Soap is our best defence against microbes and Covid-19. At a molecular level, soap is our best defence against COVID-19 and will break down and destroy most undetectable pathogens. Soap is made of unique hybrid molecules, which are both hydrophylic (water loving) and hydrophobic (oil loving), meaning they bond with water, as well as with oils. When they are suspended in water, they interact with other molecules, creating little bubbles or soapsuds called micelles. Most bacteria and viruses are encased in a membrane of oily lipid molecules, covered with proteins, which penetrate and infect healthy cells. The micelles created by soap surround the microorganisms, breaking through online @ probeauty.co.za
the lipid barriers and thereby disrupting the microbes and rendering them useless. Micelles also encase and trap dirt and debris, which along with any microorganisms, are then washed away when you rinse your hands, or an implement, or a surface. Anti-bacterial soap is more effective than any other hand wash. Anti-bacterial soaps are not essentially more effective than any other hand soap and usually contain other ingredients like triclosan, which is meant to kill or break down bacteria. However, not only do they destroy bad bacteria, they also destroy the good bacteria on your skin necessary for survival. So in actual fact, washing your hands with any soap and water is effective, and the more bubbles it makes the better. Sanitising is the same as washing and cleansing. Sanitising or cleansing is the very first step towards preventing cross contamination and has always been referred to as the process of washing and cleansing. Using soap and water breaks down and removes dirt and debris from an item or surface, including your hands, thereby reducing the number of pathogens on a surface. Hand sanitisers work just as well as washing your hands. Hand Sanitisers should NOT replace the washing of hands; they do work but are not as reliable as soap, neither are they as effective for infection control.
Sanitisers with at least 60 – 70% alcohol perform a similar function, by overcoming microbes and destabilising their lipid membranes. But they DO NOT remove all microorganisms from the skin, including certain disease causing viruses. They are an extraadded protection, additional to washing hands and a good backup at times when soap and water are not easily accessible. Spraying and wiping a surface with disinfectant gets rid of microorganisms. Absolutely NOT, as merely wiping a surface down with disinfectant or sanitiser is not effective enough; it only moves the microorganisms around and does not get rid of them. All nonporous, hard surfaces and items must first be washed with soap and water, prior to spraying with a disinfectant. The difference is sanitisers reduce the number of pathogens on a surface and disinfectants destroy most of them. Disinfection is considered as the standard for safety in the nail and beauty industry. This is a fact, however not everything can be disinfected. Disinfectants should be EPA registered and state whether they are bactericidal, virucidal and fungicidal. Disinfection can only take place once a surface has been properly cleansed to remove all dirt and debris. For disinfectants to be effective, they must remain on a surface or be submerged for the required amount of contact time, which is at least 10 minutes and then wiped with a clean paper towel. Disinfectants used to soak implements in must be changed on a daily basis. Porous items used in the salon can’t be disinfected and must be discarded. Should we disinfect our hands or body? Most definitely NOT. Disinfectants are chemicals specifically designed to destroy ‘germs’ in the salon and are meant for use on hard non-porous surfaces ONLY; they are not made for use on the skin or to be ingested. Your body is porous, so
do not spray or fumigate yourself or your clients with disinfectants, as this is extremely dangerous. Nail files can’t be disinfected so they should be discarded, alternatively replaceable grit nail files and foot files could be used, or individual custom abrasive packs can be made up and purchesed by clients for their use only. Bleach can be used as a disinfectant. Bleach is not designed for disinfection and is not made from the same chemicals as disinfectants. It is also highly corrosive, so using it on implements is not advisable, as it will damage them. Keep bleach for cleaning the floors, kitchen surfaces and bathrooms. A UV cabinet will sterilise your equipment. A UV cabinet does NOT sterilise your equipment, it is a place to keep already sanitised, cleansed and disinfected equipment from becoming contaminated. An autoclave is the only means by which to achieve complete sterilisation. Will gloves protect me while doing a treatment on a client? Gloves can give you a false sense of security, making you less careful about hand hygiene. According to recent studies, we touch our face up to 20 times in an hour, sub-consciously touching your eyes, nose and mouth, thus giving potentially dangerous microbes the opportunity to enter our body. Gloves will only act as a protection when you put them on once in your work area, and use implements and surfaces that are disinfected, and after you have washed your hands. Be diligent and DO NOT touch any other surface while using gloves on a client and immediately discard them after use. The use of nitrile or vinyl gloves are recommended, as latex can cause allergies, and some petroleum-based gloves can perforate when using petroleum based products, rendering them useless. A mask will protect me. A face mask prevents an infected
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person from passing on the virus, but does not protect the wearer from getting infected. A mask is definitely advisable when working in close proximity to your client. Dispose of masks regularly if they are disposable, or wash a cloth mask after taking it off and replace it with a fresh clean one. Avoid touching the mask while you work. As a nail technician, you work with small powder particles and should be wearing a mask anyway, to prevent you from breathing them in. A protective screen will completely protect my client and I.A sneeze screen is not enough to ensure the safety of you and your client. They are effective only to a point, and other safety practices, like wearing a mask, should not be disregarded. These screens are dust magnets and need to be cleaned regularly, especially in a nail salon. In fact,
the best is to have source capture ventilation in your salon to reduce and control dust, as viruses and bacteria can attach themselves to dust particles, which can then be inhaled. So keep your work station, environment and air clean. Barbicide is known as a leader in infection control for the professional beauty industry, and they offer free online training and certification on infection control. I would highly recommend them to anyone working in the industry.
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years, and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands.
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Nail Design Business Challenge Trends
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Graffiti is colourful, expressive and creative. This theme gives nail techs complete artistic freedom to express their thoughts, feelings and creativity in the form of a vibrant and ingenious set of Graffiti Street Art Nails.
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ccording to the Britannica.com definition – graffiti is a form of visual communication, usually illegal,
involving the unauthorised marking of public space by an individual or group. Although the common image of graffiti is a stylistic symbol or phrase spray-painted on a wall by a member of a street gang, some
graffiti is not gang-related. Graffiti can be understood as anti-social behaviour performed in order to gain attention, or as form of thrill seeking, but it can also be understood as an expressive art form. The deadline for entry is 6 July.
Rules & Regulations Due to COVID-19 and social distancing regulations – all designs may be created on nail tips and presented as an open tip box display (as long as the tips are attached to some type of platform to showcase the work.) For any tips or advice please contact or What’sApp Sonette on 076 585 4191. • Rhinestones and embellishments may be used but must not dominate the design work. • Nail stylists have complete artistic freedom to create their designs in any style or combination of techniques, using flat, embossed, encapsulated 2D or 3D design work. • Designs can be created on tips and presented as a Tip Box display or attached to some form of background to display the work. • Nails must be properly and neatly shaped, with the same shape and length consistent throughout. Any length and shape may be achieved to suit the design work and theme. • A combination of products and nail systems may be used, as long as it pertains to and complements the theme and look being achieved. • All ten nails must have a design and creation on them, each design on each nail must be different but must complement one another, be consistent in design and flow throughout all ten nails. • Judges will be looking at and judging on the following criteria: Theme following throughout the design on all ten nails. Originality and own interpretation of theme. Consistency and continuity of design throughout. Neatness & Presentation. Design and technical quality. Use of Nail products. Presentation & Step by Step • Please provide a step by step of your work, which must include: An explanation of your interpretation and inspiration of the given theme behind your designs, Photos of your steps for each nail and how you achieved the design. Presentation should be themed according to the given set theme and can be presented as a word document, PDF or PowerPoint. • Designs must be the Nail stylist own original work and not copied. • Photos must be emailed to nailfile@probeauty.co.za and clearly indicated and labeled with the name of the Nail Technician whose work it is. • Please make sure you email your full details, salon name and contact details along with your photograph. • Winners and placements will be announced on social media and the following issue of Professional Beauty & NailFile magazine.
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53 Business StyleTrends Savvy
THE DEEP
mid-winter There’s no doubt that client demands for nail shades tend to follow the seasons. Now that we find ourselves in the coldest months of the year, the preference is for the darker, frostier and more sombre shades.
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ust like in summer when we tend to wear either bright, vivid colours that suggest the sun, sea and tropical gardens, or pretty pastels reminiscent of ice creams and cupcakes, in winter our fashion choices tend to veer to the darker side of the colour spectrum. There are a myriad of wintery shades for nail techs to choose from, such as grey, ginger, brown, maroon, berry, purple, airforce blue, midnight blue, navy blue, jade green, forest green, olive green and black, as well as snowy white and icy silver. According to Pantone Colour Institute experts, shades dictated by Autumn/Winter 2020/2021 New York Fashion Week reflect our interest in desirable seasonal classics imbued with personality. Colors whose timelessness and versatility convey a level of functionality, and at the same time lend themselves to unique colour statements that stand out. “Offering a rich narrative, the colour palette for Autumn/Winter 2020/2021 highlights our desire for versatile, timeless colour. Reflecting a ‘less is more’ mindset that is becoming increasingly important to consumers prioritising value and functionality, our color palette is stripped of excess,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Colour Institute.
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Techniques
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GOING
french The French manicure is regarded as an elegant, sophisticated and timeless look that makes a statement. TANIA BIDDLE of Plush Nails & Beauty – Professional Beauty’s 2020 Nail Salon of the Year – reveals how to create this style to perfection.
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lthough fashion and trends may change with time, French nails have remained popular through the decades. At times it may seem that French applications are not as popular anymore, but somehow this look always makes its way back, more beautiful than ever. A French application is one that highlights and puts emphasis on the free edge. This can be done using any colour, however the most popular is a classic pink and white French. French applications are a sought after treatment in nail salons and can be done with nail polish, gel or acrylic systems. The white product is applied to the free edge as a square smile line with slightly curved corners, or as a regular smile line, or as a
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deep smile line. Deciding which of these applications to apply will be determined by analysing the client’s natural nail body shape, as well as the shape of the cuticle outline, the shape of the free edge, the length of the free edge and the client’s preferred end result.
Time and practice French is a work of art that takes time and practice to perfect. Many nail technicians will say that it has taken years for them to perfect this, and still they continue to learn and improve on their skill and
technique. Because of this, many salons charge more for a French application than for a regular colour. There are different types of French applications and this may also result in different pricing structures. Examples are a regular French and a French ombre or French fade, commonly referred to as baby boomer nails. Many technicians will shy away from doing a French application when a client requests it, attempting to get the client to choose something else as the
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technician doesn’t feel confident in delivering a perfect French. There are many different types of French application methods available on the market, allowing the technician control of product during application, enabling them to apply a more perfect French smile line that is consistent on all 10 nails. Product control is of the upmost importance when doing a French application. The desired end result should be a thin, neat and smooth application. Due to the complexity of the application, French can often appear thick and bulky with a noticeable ridge at the smile line.
Applications The most popular applications are a regular French smile line or a French ombre. Alternative applications include a v- French, a colour French, a glitter French, or glitter fade French etc. A question that the technician should always ask the client is what type of end result they want – a dramatic bright white French, or a more natural, softer looking French. Another option to discuss with the client is whether they want a clear application on the nail body, thus the regrowth of the application will be clear, or would the client prefer a soft pink or a nude colour to go with the white French? More often than not the client will choose a soft pink or nude. If the client chooses a softer, more natural looking French, the technician will apply the pink colour first and then apply the white French smile line. Alternatively, the white French smile line can be applied first and then the soft pink can cover the entire nail, including the white smile line, resulting in a much softer look. Some clients will also prefer a soft white smile line instead of the bright white.
ensure that the French smile line corners are symmetrical and sharp. Also, the white French smile line must be dense with no cloudiness, and must have an even colour intensity throughout. A thin and detailed application of product to the side walls and lower curves will prevent the product from lifting or chipping. The product should cap the free edge to achieve a neater end result and prevent the product from chipping at the free edge. It’s important that the product be evenly and neatly applied at the free edge to avoid a thicker, bulky and unattractive free edge, with barrel sides and side walls. An upper arch layer with correct and precise apex placement will allow for a perfectly smooth and even surface. This will also apply sufficient strength to the nail and will support the stress area. The ridge of the French smile line should not be felt or seen.
Smile line
Consistency
To achieve a perfect French smile line, you can use a few simple checkpoints to evaluate your work. This will guide you in the right direction and show you where improvement is needed. The first checkpoint would be to
It is important that the application be consistent on all 10 nails. If you struggle to apply a perfect French smile line, you could make use of a stencil guide which will ensure that your application is perfect and the same on all 10 nails.
Sealing with a reputable gloss layer will finish up the perfect French application, which can last for weeks when a gel or acrylic system is used. A French application can be done free hand using a brush. There are many different techniques on how to achieve a perfect French ombre, however always keep in mind that this style should fade from lightest to darkest colour intensity Always take into consideration the correct ratio when applying a French smile line. It is suggested that the white French smile line not be longer than half of the nail body. The correct ratio of white to pink application will result in a perfectly applied French.
Tania Biddle is the owner of Plush Nails & Beauty in Roodepoort and the head of education for Bio Sculpture Gel.
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Step StylebySavvy Step
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CREAM CONE WITH DRIP
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Start off by painting your nail a solid pale orange colour and cure.
Mix your base colour with the reddish brown used and a little bit of white to create a highlight and shadow colour. Use these two mixed colours, one on the top and one on the bottom half of each diamond created with your cross-atch pattern, and cure. Apply a matte top coat and cure.
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This deliciously delectable nail art design was created by MATTHEW GREEN, ambassador for Zsa Zsa Nails for Professionals.
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Create a cross-hatch pattern with a reddish brown and cure.
Choose two colours – think ice cream colours. Try and choose colours that are either next to each other on the colour wheel, or one colour apart. Paint a few drips on the one side of your nail with one of the colours, and a few more on the other side with the other colour.
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Add more drips lower down on the nail but only one or two and don’t overdo it. Apply a second layer on the drips to make them stand out more. Cure between each layer.
Fill in the area above the drips with each colour, connecting them in the centre of the nail. Mix your two chosen colours together, and apply on the dividing line between the colours. Work a thin liner brush, up and down, from left to right to ombré the two colours. Mixing the two colours and applying this on the dividing line makes the ombré effect much easier to achieve. Repeat this for a second layer. Cure between each layer.
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Add the shadows, with black, to the drips on the right side, with the fastest part of the shadow being near the tip of the drip, i.e. where the drip is the tallest and would cast the biggest shadow if it were real. Add the highlights to the inner right hand side of each drip. Use the shadow and highlight to create a drip in the ombréd part of the nail. Cure the nail.
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Apply a finishing matte top coat and cure. Products used Gel polishes: L008 (Pale Orange), L035 (Reddish Brown), L009 (Light Blue), L016 (Pastel Purple), L001 (White), L003 (Black) Top coat: Matte No Wipe Top Coat Brush: 15mm thin liner brush
For as long as he can remember, Matthew Green has been passionate about having nice long natural nails (aka not cutting his nails). In 2019 he attended Capri Nail & Beauty and obtained his Nail Technician’s qualification, while simultaneously completing an advanced Nail Art Course with Zsa Zsa Nails. Green did his apprenticeship under Nadz Hope Nails and is now with Tease Hair & Beauty in Green Point, Cape Town.
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Business Product Step by Trends News Step
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Business Trends Q&A
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Top Tech Talk NailFile speaks to award-winning nail artist and educator, Ané Snyman about competitions and where nail art is headed in the future. When you submitted your ‘Superheroes’ entry, you said that the competition had been a blessing in disguise, especially during the lockdown.
You recently won the NailFile ‘Superheroes’ Photographic Nail Design Competition – was this the first time that you’d entered a competition? This was my first time entering any form of nail art competition.
What did winning the competition mean to you? It meant a lot to be honest. My confidence is at an all-time high. I’ve always looked at the participants and winners of previous competitions and been amazed at their work. To be able to produce the same quality of work meant so much to me.
With these competitions there is always a time limit. Couple this with normal life, such as your career, family and friends, and it is very hard to stick to competition deadlines. The lockdown provided the perfect opportunity to have more time, and this assisted in me being able to re-think, adjust and perfect my designs. The lockdown was the perfect blessing to free up my time.
As someone who has been an educator for the past nine years, do you encourage your students to enter nail competitions to hone their skills? Absolutely, there are so many benefits to this. In my personal capacity, it was self-confidence that I gained. Competing makes you think outside of the normal
trends. For students, it unlocks a whole new skillset for them. At the end of the day, it broadens the student’s scope of their work and their clients will reap the benefits thereof eventually.
Your stunning ‘Superheroes’ entry shows that you are clearly an accomplished nail artist. Is there a particular style of nail art that you most enjoy doing?
My enjoyment comes from sculpting. I appreciate all forms of nail art, but 3D nail art is where I’m at my most comfortable and strongest. To be able to shape, manipulate and form all the different components with the various products is what I enjoy the most. My second favourite style is abstract nail art. Creating different patterns and themes provides endless opportunities to indulge in.
Did you do art at school? I have no formal training in any form of art. I’m barely able to draw a stick figure!
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Trends change, like the seasons. Speaking of seasons, we do get your typical seasonal requests for summer themed nails, which are bright, upbeat and colourful. Winter brings a more conservative look in nail art. A lot of the time our clients will request their own ideas. Everyone’s taste differs and that keeps us on our toes with nail art designs.
Where do you think nail art is headed in the future? It is almost impossible to predict the future. With so many new products entering the market it makes the possibilities of what can be achieved endless. So many factors influence nail art, such as pop culture, society, nostalgia, mood etc. One thing is for certain, with a wide range of products and technology, the sky’s the limit for what could be achieved in the future.
When did you first become interested in nails? I started at Bio Sculpture Centurion as a receptionist 13 years ago. I became interested in nails when I noticed our clients enjoying the training experience. So I took the first step to train as a nail technician. Because I enjoyed the training so much, it motivated me to undergo further training to qualify as an educator. I’m employed at Bio Sculpture Centurion as the branch manager and educator.
Business Trends Q&A
Do most of your clients request nail art? If so, have you noticed any nail art trends that have proved popular over the past year?
industry are undeniable and this motivates me to be the best I can be. When it comes to passion, look no further than Tania Biddle, head of educating at Bio Sculpture. Her passion for educating and the product is unmatched. I also look up to colleagues like Andrea Smith, whose nail art is second to none.
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Competing makes you think outside of the normal trends. For students, it unlocks a whole new skillset for them.
As an educator yourself, you obviously value the importance of training. Please comment. Most definitely. We constantly train to service our clients in the most proactive and productive way. Training is very important for us, but so is the health of our client’s nails. Our training and products will always align for the betterment of healthy nails.
Do you think a lot of nail techs learn the basics and then rely on YouTube videos to ‘learn’ other nail techniques? What are the dangers of doing this? YouTube is the best of both worlds. One can learn good techniques but the pitfall is that you can also learn bad techniques. We are all unique and everyone differs. It’s good to learn the basics and set off to expand into nail art, but at the end of the day there are more conventional and formal ways to train. Why do you want to create nail art that has been created before? Use your own individuality to create amazing pieces of nail art. The dangers of using YouTube may create bad habits, unoriginal art work and result in a poor work ethic, where you rely on someone else’s creation.
Do you have any mentors in the industry? I believe everyone should have mentors. I look up to people like Elmien Scholtz, owner and founder of Bio Sculpture Gel. All her accomplishments in the nail
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