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In this issue...

Regulars

Case Study

Features

5 Industry news

16 Building an authentic spa brand

23 Treatment review

Local and international news

37 Crowning glory

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

45 In the market

All the latest launches

News from the Professional Body

The ‘scan’ plan

30 Bold & Beautiful

Interview

Professional make-up imagery

18 Talking to…Kent Richards

31 Trending glam

48 SAAHSP

Dee’s African Spa

Corporate operations director of Six Senses chats to us

The latest make-up looks

32 Is blue-light damaging your skin?

Spa Focus

Business

24 Journey to the inner sanctuary

34 The fight against blue-light

11 Ask the Experts

All your questions answered

13 Insider

Tracking the industry with stats

15 Make KPIs work for you

How to track your business

Enviro Sanctuary Spa

28 Lighting in the spa space

Illuminating your spa

Aesthetic Medicine 43 The collagen conclusion

Collagen supplementation in skincare

The light that emanates from digital devices

Product focus

38 In search of an alluring silhouette

Body contouring devices

Nails 49 NailFile

Issue 29

38 online @ probeauty.co.za

Welcome

2

I

t’s hard to believe that it’s already that time of the year again, when we publish the last issue of Professional Beauty for 2019. As most industry stakeholders are likely to report, the country’s poor economy has negatively impacted the beauty business during this year, resulting in an ‘only the fittest will survive’ type of scenario. Resilient and innovative salons and spas have come up with ways to weather the storm, building a solid foundation for the future.

For our part, we are happy to report that our flagship event, Professional Beauty Johannesburg, which took place at the beginning of September, was a huge success and that the change in venue within Gallagher Convention Centre proved popular. Our satellite events that ran alongside the show, such as Salon International, World Spa & Wellness Africa Convention, Aesthetic Medicine Convention, Business Seminars and Nail Workshop, were well attended and generated positive feedback.

In this issue we include an interview with a senior spa executive, Kent Richards, from one of the biggest hotel and spa groups in the world, namely Six Senses. This is a fascinating read as not only does it track Richards’ personal journey from the fitness world in South Africa to the world of spa in the East, it also offers valuable insight into Six Senses operations.

One of our special features in this issue focuses on blue-light, the light that is emitted from the screens of digital devices, and how this impacts our skin. An expert from the University of Pretoria, Dr Danielle Twilley, sheds some light (pun intended) on this topic.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA

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BANISH THE BLUES SKINCARE THAT TARGETS BLUE-LIGHT

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5 News

News First ever Beauty Week boosts industry A number of salons participated in Professional Beauty’s first ever Beauty Week (7 – 14 October), a national marketing initiative to help salons and spas attract new business and increase profits.

Participating salons registered their business details on the Beauty Week Directory (www.beautyhub. org) and offered the public a ‘2 for 1 special offer’ (i.e. ‘Bring a friend and receive your own treatment free’) during Beauty Week. Professional Beauty actively marketed and promoted the event with online paid campaigns and public relations. It also provided free Beauty Week marketing material for salons.

Says Gabi Bellairs-Lombard from the Esse Concept Store at the Balito Lifestyle Centre: “Thanks to

Professional Beauty for contacting us and allowing us to be a part of this opportunity. In total we had seven Beauty Week special bookings (so we had 14 bookings) and most were new clients, which was great.

“We loved the response to this so we decided to extend the special offer by another week. I think Beauty Week is a straightforward, worthwhile promotion.”

Karmen Fieldgate of Make Me Beautiful in Johannesburg adds: “I had some Beauty Week bookings – clients that I would never otherwise have got in for treatments.”

Tanya Nell of Lash-Up thought Beauty Week was a great idea: “I also think that the more something like this is done, the more exposure and client awareness

will be created.”

Phil Woods, Professional Beauty’s commercial director, says: “Beauty Week was launched by Professional Beauty to help salons and spas boost their profile and increase their client base. Judging by the overall feedback received, we have achieved that.

“Professional Beauty will continue to work on this throughout the coming year and grow the number of participating salons for Beauty Week 2020. www. beautyhub.org will continue to run as an online directory and we hope to expand the site into a more proactive resource for both the consumer and professional alike.”

Camelot opens 35th spa in SA The South African Camelot Group has opened its 35th spa in the country, at the Hyatt Regency Johannesburg.

Says Camelot Group CEO, Debbie Merdjan: “Camelot Spa had successfully run the Hyatt Spa from 2005 to 2012. The Hyatt then brought in their own in-house spa brand called Phumula and stocked June Jacob products. Following that, Amani Spas took over and when their contract ended, Camelot was brought back in.”

Merdjan reveals that a major refurbishment of facilities took place at the existing spa, which is located on the 6th floor of the Hyatt Regency. She continues: ‘I would describe the look and feel of the refurbished facility as modern eclectic, with use of wood, marble and crystals. We opted for a colour scheme comprising soft hues of grey, yellow and white.

“The spa offers a curated selection of signature treatments and we have designed a special health menu to complement the spa experience.”

Along with a dedicated pedicure lounge and nail suite, the spa, positioned as an urban retreat, features heat and water facilities including an outdoor swimming pool and deck, vitality pool, steam room and sauna. There are four secluded treatment rooms.

In addition to the Thalgo and Cspa brands, Merdjan has introduced the LPG Endermologie Alliance Face and

Body treatments into the spa.

More Camelot Spas are set to open in the next 12 months – the Aurum Spa Bantry Bay in November, Phakelane Spa in Botswana, Mantis Cleo Lake, Rwanda and Styen City Spa. Of the existing 35 Camelot outlets in South Africa, 19 are Camelot Spas and 16 are CSpa Wellness branches.

online @ probeauty.co.za

News

6

inbrief // World Wellness Weekend was celebrated at 2,356 venues in 98 countries on 21 and 22 September.

This initiative was founded in 2017 by Jean-Guy de Gabriac to elevate wellness worldwide.

New look Professional Beauty Johannesburg a hit

// New research from ReportLinker reveals consumer preference for vegan products is on the rise, thus fueling the growth of the vegan cosmetics market. However, the stringent guidelines for obtaining vegan certification and formulation may hamper growth.

// The CEW Achiever Awards have recognised Oriele Frank , MD (UK) and founding director of luxury British spa brand, Elemis, for outstanding achievement in her field and for her contribution to the beauty industry.

// pHformula , founded by South African-born Petru van Zyl, has committed to walking Phase 2 of the Camino De Santiago in Spain in 2021 to raise awareness for Motor Neuron Disease (MND), having

completed Phase 1 this June.

// A placebo-controlled study has confirmed the efficacy of Bix’Activ® on oily African skin . This active ingredient, formulated by the German chemical company BASF, is 100% natural and based on seeds from the Bixa Orellana plant

online @ probeauty.co.za

A brand new venue, as well as the introduction of a Skincare Lounge, contributed to the success of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, held at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand in early September.

The thousands of industry professionals who visited the show were exposed to over 200 top brands in the beauty, skincare, nails, make-up, body care, hair care and aesthetic device sectors.

Running alongside Professional Beauty Johannesburg were Salon International (the hair industry’s biggest expo); the World Spa & Wellness Africa Convention; the Aesthetic Medicine Convention,

the Business Seminar Programme, the Annual Professional Beauty Nail Competition; and the Nail Workshop.

Says Phil Woods, Professional Beauty’s commercial director: “Both exhibitions were a fantastic success. We were delighted that the move to halls 4 and 5 at Gallagher Convention Centre were well received. The freshness that the transition created appeared to induce some meaningful business for all.

“Furthermore, the inclusion of the Skincare Lounge area was very well received, as was the overall increase in business in the retail area.”

From the exhibitor’s pen Amanda Harrod of Saloncare exhibited at the recent Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo. She writes: “We at Saloncare would love to congratulate the Professional Beauty South Africa team and Group CEO, Mark Maloney, on the execution of a show worth talking about for years to come.

Excellence in every aspect and the 100% support shown to the exhibitors was quite evident.

Thank you for allowing us to be a part of this platform of success, which represented exactly what our industry boasts, namely class, excitement; passion; development; opportunity and growth.

“There were so many relevant feet present, which is every exhibitor’s dream come true. We personally had the pleasure of engaging with visitors from all over Africa and have forged new relationships.

An additional plus was meeting so many students and having them assist on our stand, which gave them exposure and experience.

“Partnering with Professional Beauty South Africa will always be a consideration for our company as their contribution to the world of health and beauty is admiral and valuable.”

News

8

South African elected as CIDESCO president Well-known South African beauty professional, Sandy Fuhr, has been elected president of CIDESCO International, the World Standard for Beauty and Spa Therapy, Fuhr replaces Anna-Cari Gund, who served a seven-year term.

As president of CIDESCO International, Fuhr will work closely with the board and secretariat team in Switzerland to continue developing new educational programmes that fit the needs of the industry.

Says Fuhr: “I am thrilled to have been elected to the position as I feel that the qualifications CIDESCO offers continue to lead quality and standards in the beauty industry.

A CIDESCO qualification is the worldwide ticket to employment opportunities for so many students entering what is the largest growing industry globally.

“We plan to develop a closer relationship with our Regional

Offices which are our CIDESCO Sections, currently situated in 30 countries, including South Africa.

With CIDESCO courses available in over 40 countries currently, we aim to increase this reach with additional accredited colleges.”

Twincare awards stockists Twincare International recently held an event in Midrand to reward business owners and managers for their performance.

The winners were as follows: Matis Retailer of the Year Award -Laurien Lawrence (Matis Fourways) Matis Up & Coming Award – Johnine Schekierka (B-Spoilt Vanderbijlpark)

Matis Business Excellence Award – Elani Beckley (Matis Rosebank) Twincare Salon of The Year Award – Matis Rosebank Guinot Up & Coming Salon – Monica Mechanicos Haralambous (Sorbet Lonehill) Guintot Retailer of the Year - Carlin Loots (HealthiSkin) Guinot Business Excellence Award Debbie Kramer (Natural Expressions) Screaming Beauty Business

Excellence Award – Jayshika Sivenarain (Changing Faces) Artistic Nail Design Business Excellent Award – Nasreen Samodien (Will Stream @ Zimbali) Artistic Nail Design Up & Coming Award – Nadine Jenkins (Bliss Hair) IBD Nails Business Excellence Award – Tania Pheiffer (Pure Woodlands Spa) IBD Nails Up & Coming Award – Natalie Camara (N & E Beauty)

Ever Beauty SA on the up

Launched last year with a professional make-up range, Ever Beauty® SA has now added Full Magnetic Lashes to its inventory, as well as its own perfume called, ‘I’m Beautiful’.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Ever Beauty SA brand and product director, Terisa Hsu-Lee, reveals that the Full Magnetic Lashes are already being sold in 27 salons.

“These lashes comprise a magnetised strip lash as well as two mini-lashes with magnets that sandwich the natural lash,” says HsuLee. “The lashes can be used for up to 10 wears or even more, depending on how well you look after them.

They are glue-free and infection-free.

“Our magnetic lashes are made of synthetic fibres. At the moment we have two lash varieties available – No 1 and No 2, with No 3 arriving soon for a super natural look. We even

designed a set of tweezers for magnetic lash application.”

Hsu-Lee chose to launch Ever Beauty SA’s own perfume to differentiate the brand in the market.

“Originally, the ‘I’m Beautiful’ scent was meant to be a signature fragrance that was sprayed into the Ever Beauty SA packaging.

But then my sister, Angela In-Chyi Hsu, and I decided to sell it as a standalone perfume.

“This is our first locally produced product and we’re in the process of developing two more fragrances,” concludes Hsu-Lee.

PMU takes centre stage

Permanent make-up (PMU) techniques for ethnic skin was one of the focuses at this year’s International Permanent Make-up Conference, which was held in Pretoria recently and attracted over 80 delegates.

Two international speakers from Russia, Julia Scherbakova and Ekaterina Suvorova, presented live demos of ethnic full lips and ethnic ombre brows respectively.

South African speaker, Manuela Incendiario, also presented on best outcomes for working on ethnic skin.

Ukrainian Tatyana Polivanova did a live demo on full lips, while Will Anthony from the US performed two of his trademarked treatments, namely Smokey Lash Enhancement and Stretch Techniques.

“Our live demos were great as we had a sterile area set up

for all four of our international speakers, who did their demos while delegates asked questions,” says PCASA (Permanent Cosmetic Association of South Africa) president, Leandra Clifford-Spies. PCASA hosted and coordinated the event.

Local speakers included: Nikki Van Gend, Tamlin Joannides, Chantel Mulder, Mandi Bradshaw and Philippa Crighton.

One of the controversial industry issues raised at this year’s conference was that of ethics and standards in the permanent make-up sector in South Africa.

Clifford-Spies continues: “Joelette Theron from SAAHSP (Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry) highlighted that one of the biggest concerns in our industry is the fact that there are still

schools that do PMU training in two days. This makes it impossible to ensure that the students have a good knowledge of this very important industry. These schools also train microblading in two days to students who have no fundamental PMU training, or even a background in beauty.”

In terms of new PMU technologies showcased at the conference, Biotek launched its new Maistro PMU Device, while LI Pigments introduced Monika Ivanyi’s new Eyebrow pigment range.

Medi Numb won the award for best exhibitor and Will Anthony was voted best speaker.

“The conference was really amazing and the feedback has been phenomenal. We also had a Bohemian-themed after party, which gave delegates the chance to network with each other,” concludes Clifford-Spies.

Correction An article on hair removal devices on page 41 of the September issue of Professional Beauty stated the following: ‘Both Venus Versa and Venus Velocity can treat all skin tones and are also safe for tanned skin.’

This sentence should have read: “Both systems can treat all skin tones; the Venus Velocity is also safe for tanned skin.”

online @ probeauty.co.za

News

9

JOIN US IN 2020

The UK’s largest show for beauty & spa professionals REGISTER YOUR INTEREST: www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/london #PBLondon

@pro_beauty

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Professional Beauty London is open only to trade and professional visitors over the age of 14.

Under no circumstances will babies, prams, pushchairs or buggies be permitted.

Your entrance badge will be emailed to you 2-3 weeks before the show. Please print it and bring it with you for entry.

Business Tips

11

ask

the EXPERTS

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

What should good quality professional semi-permanent lash extensions be made of?

Recently I came across a controversial article about whether one was wearing dead animals on your eyes if you had semi-permanent eyelash extensions applied. I felt that such an inane statement needed to be clarified and the correct information shared.

Real Mink fur is seldom used in lash extensions. Considered a luxury service, they’re not offered by many lash artists these days.

They cost much more than synthetic lashes and they don’t retain their curl. Furthermore, most companies don’t use them due to regulations against the use of animal products and testing. So the likelihood that you might be wearing dead animals on your lashes is rather slim.

Many years ago lashes were made of acrylic resin, which is cheap, easy to manufacture and takes colour well. Some of the lashes available on the market are still made of this material. But if exposed to moisture, acrylic lashes have a dull, matt and rigid appearance. In addition, they don’t retain their shape and can bend easily if slept on.

Today, most lash extensions are either Silk or Faux Mink; both are made of a synthetic polymer called PBT (Polybutylene Terephthalate). PBT is a high performance-engineering polymer, which is more expensive and trickier to colour and manufacture than acrylic lashes.

However, lashes made from this material are softer, stronger and have a natural glossy sheen.

They also retain their curl and appearance better and don’t get bent out of shape so easily.

So there’s no need for special pillows, masks or sleeping flat on your back.

The difference between Silk and Faux Mink lashes is not their material but rather the shape, finish and weight of the lashes.

Silk lashes have a shorter taper; the body of the lash has a thicker, longer base and a semi-gloss finish. They work best in very dramatic lash sets.

Faux Mink lashes have a natural appearance with a semi-matte finish, resembling the look of natural lashes. They are also

exceptionally lightweight – up to 30% lighter than a Silk lash – and the thinnest type of synthetic lash available. Most of the extension body of the lash is tapered, making it very versatile for practically any type of lash application and look.

Faux Mink is ideal for clients with very fine natural lashes and who want a natural looking set. It is also suited to a more traditional or dramatic Volume set.

Knowing the difference between lash types, lengths and thicknesses and which lash extension will be best for your clients, is vitally important in ensuring you provide them with the best possible lash application service suited to their needs, without causing any damage or harm to their natural lashes. PB

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands.

She is the official distributor for The Eyelash Emporium in South Africa. sonette@eyelashemporium.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

At the heart of the professional beauty industry...

Events 2020 Your one stop shop for education, business opportunities, networking, purchasing and growing your business • Johannesburg Professional Beauty Awards Gala Dinner 23rd February 2020 Business Conference 24th February 2020 Salon International Awards and Gala Dinner 24th February 2020 • Cape Town Professional Beauty Conference and Exhibition 6th April 2020 • Durban Professional Beauty and Aesthetics Conference Durban 7th June 2020 • Johannesburg Professional Beauty Johannesburg 30-31 August 2020 Salon International Africa Johannesburg 30-31 August 2020

www.probeauty.co.za

Business Trends

13

Insider Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled beauty salons and spas in South Africa to track business in August 2019.

Insider Spa

Spa business did not exactly boom during August 2019, with only 58% of spas polled reporting an increase in business, as compared to the same time last year. Hotel spas in Cape Town reported that tourism was definitely down and that spa business may well have been adversely affected by the lingering drought recovery. The country’s poor economy was also a factor. One Gauteng spa that did particularly well in August 2019 had big companies that booked several groups in for spa days for Women’s Day events.

Retail business, surprisingly, was up, if only by a small margin in some cases.

Corporate groups at some spas bought gift packs for their delegates. Other spas noted that while treatments were down, guests had a higher spend and were keen on purchasing home care to continue their results.

We asked you what important considerations you take into account when re-branding your business and most of you replied consistency of service and follow-through of core values at every guest interaction. Others put a strong emphasis on maintaining the physical property and the use of original images of your property to ensure that guests are not disappointed when they see the spa for the first time.

Insider Salon

South African salons continue to struggle with the negative impact of the economy on consumers. The vast majority of salons polled reported a decrease in both treatment and retail business. On the upside, salons are looking forward to the summer months and the traditional increase in business that this time of year sees in South Africa.

As to what the most important factor that salons take into account when rebranding their business – most of you said consistent brand message. PB

The month in numbers

SALON 38

SPA 64 AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

%

%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2019 COMPARE WITH AUGUST 2018?

58% 8% 34% BETTER

SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2019 COMPARE WITH AUGUST 2018?

70% BETTER

0% SAME

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2019 COMPARE WITH AUGUST 2018?

22% 11% 67% BETTER

SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2019 COMPARE WITH AUGUST 2018?

30%

19%

WORSE

BETTER

3%

78% WORSE

SAME

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Business Tips

15

make

KPIs work for you

I

Tracking the performance of your business and your team relies on five key performance indicators. HELLEN WARD explains why.

recently met a woman who worked for a software company in New Zealand who said that in their territory, they often refer to salon owners as ‘accidental business people’.

This really struck a chord with me.

We all know that the most successful, busiest therapist, nail tech or hairdresser is often the one who goes it alone and branches out to open their own salon. But running a business requires a totally different skill set to that required to grow and maintain a fabulous column.

Very often, the fledgling owners spend years thinking that running their clientele is their ‘real job’, while time spent off the floor in the office ‘isn’t really working’.

It’s a mindset I come up against time and again, hence my famous question: ‘Are you a therapist or a businessperson?’ Because you simply can’t be both – one has to supersede the other.

Managing time One salon owner once told me her team accused her of ‘dossing in the office and taking it easy’

whenever she spent time out of the treatment room, so she started doing her office job after hours, and was hence fed up, tired and demotivated.

Nobody will thrive if they don’t have the correct worklife balance, and getting it right is essential for our well-being, as well as our performance.

Running a business needs time and attention. It’s simply not something we can fit into a column between clients.

Many salon owners I meet impress me with their knowledge. But some merely cite the reports their software systems churn out. The key is to keep it simple. We only need to track five performance indicators (KPIs) where our teams are concerned to get a tangible indicator of how they are performing: 1. Treatment turnover 2. Retail turnover 3. Occupancy rate 4. Client request rate 5. Average bill What’s vitally important

is not only the consistent monitoring of this data, it’s learning how to interpret the figures to get an accurate overall performance indication.

After all, if we look solely at percentage request, the operator might have done one client each day but if every one of them asked for her or him by name, they’d be running at 100%, even though their column was practically empty.

None of the KPIs can be looked at in isolation. They must all come together to be accurately interpreted.

Teaching salon owners what the figures mean is far more important than telling them how to get them. Analysing the data is the critical bit, because in this challenging economy, none of us can afford to be accidental business people anymore. PB Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk

online @ probeauty.co.za

Case Study

16

building an

authentic spa brand

After many years of working as a successful somatologist and spa manager, DINEO MOLEFE founded what is today a thriving spa business that comprises three outlets and a mobile spa. JOANNA STERKOWICZ finds out how Dee’s African Spa became a sustainable venture.

T

he original Dee’s African Spa opened in 2009 at Protea Hotel by Marriott Kruger Gate, at the Kruger National Park.

Dee’s African Spa @ Perry’s Bridge in Hazyview was established three years later, with Dee’s Green Pepper Spa in Nelspruit following in 2017.

“We also have a mobile spa that services hotels and lodges within a 55km radius of Hazyview in Mpumalanga, including a lodge at the Kruger National Park’s ‘Elephant Point’,” says Dee’s African Spa founder and owner, Dineo Molefe.

She continues: “Dee’s Mobile Spa is flexible and services the lodges in areas that do not have in-house spas. We offer a wide range of relaxing and rejuvenating massage

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Business plan

I particularly wanted to make a difference in the lives of previously disadvantaged women from poor communities. modalities for guests to enjoy in the comfort and safely of their own preferred venue. In addition we do pamper parties, bridal showers, kiddies’ parties, corporate wellness days and golf days.”

Dee’s Mobile Spa’s client list includes SANParks – Kruger National Park, Old Mutual, Avis Fleet Services, Elephant Point, Kruger Park Lodge Hazyview, and Tanamera Lodge.

Molefe notes that when starting out on the Dee’s African Spa journey, it was very difficult to get a business loan and funding for the business. Plus, she needed to pay a huge amount of money to get a professionally sound business plan drawn up to submit to banks and financial institutions.

“I started the business using my own savings and I had to get a personal loan from a bank as well, as my savings could not cover all expenses. It was a big risk as there was no guarantee that I would make it. But I thought that if I worked twice as hard as I had worked for my previous employers, then I would make it. As it turned out, I paid off my loan in three years instead of the stipulated five-year payment plan,” she explains.

17

Hamish Niven Photography

Case Study

At the moment, Protea Hotel

by Marriott Kruger Gate is in the process of completely rebuilding the existing Dee’s African Spa. Once finished, it will have two single rooms, a couple’s room, a manicure & pedicure lounge, steam room, relaxation area and reception.

It is due for completion by June 2020.

In developing the Dee’s African Spa outlets, Molefe wanted to leave behind a legacy that she would be proud of. “Women, especially black women, in South Africa have so long been deprived of the opportunity to be leaders, or to hold managerial positions. I particularly wanted to make a difference in the lives of previously disadvantaged women from poor communities.”

To date, Molefe has offered training to many young women in the villages near the Kruger National Park, including Huntington, Belfast, Acronhoek and Mkhuhlu.

Eight of these women are now working in upmarket lodges. She has also helped out therapists who had gone to colleges but who were not registered and had not trained properly.

In 2017, Molefe won the ABM Business Woman of the Year in Nelspruit Award.

“This was an overwhelming experience as I did not know that there were people out there who acknowledged my hard work and dedication,” she comments. “I felt favoured

by God and it made me want to do more work to uplift

previously disadvantaged people, especially in the villages.

Winning the award also helped to market my spas, as I received so much support from the community and hotels around the area that needed a mobile spa or reliable in-house spa.”

Therapists

Hamish Niven Photography

Hamish Niven Photography

Legacy

Ten therapists are employed at each Dee’s African Spa (this number includes the mobile spa therapists). Operating hours in the hotels are between 8am and 7pm, with each therapist working an eight-hour shift.

Molefe believes that therapists should be involved in lodge duties, such as hosting guests and being at reception.

“For the smooth running of the spa, therapists need to develop a good working relationship with the hotel’s front of house staff,” she states.

“A strong communication channel is needed to achieve service excellence. I believe that therapists should be at the forefront when guests check in.

Guests will never forget the first person who welcomed them.

“Furthermore, it’s so easy to market the spa to the guests at check-in. Therapists can easily entice guests to visit the spa if they constantly engage with them during breakfast or dinner time. From my years of working at game reserves, I discovered that guests are open to conversation with therapists and then that feedback is communicated back to the spa. I feel that therapists grow in terms of service delivery

when they are more involved in hotel duties and that they improve guest relations.”

Authentic feel Creating an authentic atmosphere is important to achieve pure relaxation at Molefe’s spas. She explains that it’s important that body and biology are treated in harmony whilst enjoying a truly authentic African offering. In terms of décor, she has used rich, calming colours and textures that blend with the natural surroundings.

Dee’s African Spas make use of recognisable and traceable local product brands, namely Healing Earth and Matsimela.

The treatment offering is inspired by Africa’s vibrant heritage, with the signature massage being the Xigiya Tribal Massage (Knobkerri Massage). PB

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Talking to...

Kent Richards Corporate operations director of Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas, KENT RICHARDS, talks to JOANNA STERKOWICZ about his journey from the South Africa fitness industry to a senior position at one of the world’s biggest spa groups.

What prompted your move from fitness into spa?

Throughout my career I have believed that what is meant to be will be, so staying open to new opportunities and freefalling into new challenges has been part of my philosophy. I’m often surprised when interviewing candidates and hearing how they want answers to every detail before they make a move, as I have always relied on gut instinct and if the opportunity sounds exciting, go for it. Now when I look back, I can honestly say that every stage of my career to date

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When I either visit or review the South African industry, I see there are several places keeping up with the global development pace, but the majority have become stuck in some of the phases of the past.

happened for very good reason, with each step connecting to the previous steps.

After managing health clubs in South Africa for many years, I was invited to interview for a position with a growing fitness company in Hong Kong. I jumped at this and without much thought landed in this exciting city full of enthusiasm and good old South African trust. It just felt right and it certainly did not disappoint – I ended up working for several years in the Asia fitness industry.

My employer had several management contracts to operate premier spas in a variety of 5-star hotels and that was my first taste of spas. It was in Hong Kong where I experienced my first facial, in my late thirties, as South African men just did not do this at home. There was no going back and my interest in the spa industry grew.

The turning point came when I realised the spa industry was evolving much along the lines of the gym industry many years before. This excited me and although I had worked with many leading hotel spas, it was always only on a strategic level and I was yet to spend one full day working in a spa. Google came to the rescue and within minutes I found an advertisement for the new bliss spa (small b according to brand specification) opening at the W Hong Kong. Again, a perfect fit. A non-traditional luxury hotel with what was known as a rebel spa brand opting for chocolate brownies as refreshments and cool jazz sounds piped into treatment rooms made far more sense to me than carrot sticks and the sound of whales. In 2006 I joined bliss spa as the ‘Director of bliss’, working for Starwood Hotels as their spa director. Training was done at their headquarters in New York and two years later,

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we opened successfully, being named Best Urban Spa by the prestigious AsiaSpa Awards.

How did you adapt to the spa environment?

Launching bliss at W Hong Kong was a great experience as we were surrounded by traditional five star luxury hotel spas. We were clearly not only the newest spa on the block but provided guests with something totally different. This made entering a new industry so much easier for me as the concept was

pioneering in the sector and provided me the opportunity to do it my way. Candidates would arrive for their first interview carrying CV’s and piles of certificates but instead we would spend the time getting to know their personality. Did they like to sing and dance? What are their happy thoughts? Once we knew that their characteristics and lifestyles matched our company vision and values, they progressed to the second round when those CVs would be needed. This process meant we >

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hired very few people from traditional 5-star spas and instead developed a team of people-focused employees.

From getting the spa ready for opening to leading bliss through its first two years of operation was a wonderfully happy time.

Buckets of creativity were needed from the team, making my step into the spa world so much easier as we created that environment each day.

Please describe your upward career trajectory in the spa industry.

As I entered the spa industry, my expectations of it evolving in a similar pattern to the gym sector proved to be accurate.

The two industries became more and more similar and whilst I was never interested in giving treatments, I knew how to help guests identify their needs and train our teams to give them memorable quality experiences. My climb up the career ladder was rapid, mainly due to my ambition and the legendary spa leaders I met

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along the way. After bliss spa at W Hong Kong, I jumped between gym and spa management in South Africa, Malaysia and Turkey, before discovering Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas.

This was another twist of fate which has me believing your life path is mapped out by a higher power. Whilst perfectly happy living in Istanbul, my employer asked me to investigate the new wellness trend. This was at the same time as Six Senses had been purchased by a private equity company, so they were all over the internet talking wellness and hence our paths crossed. Everything their team said made sense and I knew this was the company I needed to join. After a short period in the Maldives looking after three Six Senses spas, I had the opportunity to move to the Global Home Office in Bangkok, Thailand, reporting directly to Anna Bjurstam – then VP of spa and wellness at Six Senses. As a pioneer in the wellness world, Anna’s leadership and guidance saw Six Senses continue to

thrive rapidly, expanding across the globe and growing my responsibilities further.

As corporate operations director at Six Senses, how do you go about overseeing 30+ spas?

As the saying goes, ‘You are only as good as those surrounding you’. Together with our area spa directors and very experienced and skilled Home Office support teams, we lead the day-to-day operations of Six Senses Spas.

This includes everything from guest service, recruitment and maintaining our brand standards, to all key performance indicators, relationships with owners and financial results.

We refer to our team as hosts as they service each guest as if they were welcoming them into their own home. Each area spa director has one home spa and a maximum of five away spas, with their responsibility being to lead their spa directors and hosts effectively to reach their full potential. The area spa directors then report to me so

I can oversee how we, as a team, are performing and provide tools as needed for our continued success.

The spa industry in South Africa is relatively young – is that the case overseas?

The spa industry has developed rapidly and continues to evolve so it really depends on the definition of the industry.

I believe it has been around for many years, most definitely throughout my lifetime, both in my home country, South Africa, and internationally.

What used to be a female domain providing facials and nail care soon merged with traditional massage houses adding men to the client base, then into health, nutrition and fitness forming the multiple wellness services we offer today. The main difference between South Africa and the international spa market is the speed at which the industry develops. This could be due to market segment identification, the value of the currency and the size of the spa and wellness market. But overall the spa industry is alive and growing across the globe.

Wellness seems to have become a pervading global trend. Please comment.

Six Senses was started over 20 years ago and has always seen itself as a wellness hospitality company, providing luxury vacations in beautiful international locations. At the heart of Six Senses are our two central pillars of wellness and sustainability. We have always taken wellness seriously but wanted our guests to enjoy their journey without being forced to drop the things they find makes life fun. Years ago, the Six Senses CEO, Neil Jacobs, and Anna Bjurstam, wanted to provide the Six Senses guest with a journey through wellness; so much more than either a massage or facial.

This led to Six Senses working with several leading international experts, including NASA and the Harvard Medical School, to ensure we had credibility when talking

wellness. Today Six Senses is respected for having wellness at the centre of all hotels, resorts and spas. We encourage each guest to start their journey with a wellness screening, which is then used to structure a personalised programme based on their needs.

Is Six Senses ever likely to open a property in South Africa?

Yes – Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas have a full time development team planning our growth worldwide. In the next year Six Senses will open in New York, Ibiza, across India, Austria, Switzerland, Costa Rica and more. South Africa has great natural beauty and its people are famous for their special warmth and great hospitality. Add this to our delicious foods and wines, making a perfect location for Six Senses guests. PB

I believe that each Six Senses Spa property is unique – please elaborate.

We stay away from the cookiecutter approach. Our locations are selected to bring guests closer to the Six Senses vision of reconnecting with ourselves, those around us and the world.

This can only be done by adding value to each environment, so whether it is having famous designer, Anouska Hempel, rejuvenating 19th century heritage trading houses in Singapore, or creating a luxury hideout in the Omani Desert using mostly local materials as done at Six Senses Zighy Bay, Six Senses properties complement their environment.

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23 Treatment Review

The

‘scan’ plan JOANNA STERKOWICZ experiences the second in a series of rejuvenating facial treatments from Danish medical skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique, involving the use of the 4th generation DermaScan skin scanning device, as well as infrared technology.

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y first ever Beauté Pacifique facial took place three and a half months ago, when my untreated skin was scanned with the brand’s DermaScan device, which can see through the epidermis and dermis into the subcutaneous layer of the skin.

“The older skin gets, the thinner it becomes. Ageing is inevitably associated with a decrease in collagen turnover, due to a reduction in fibroblasts and their collagen synthesis. Elastin also decreases and it has a higher degree of calcification in aged skin, with an associated degradation of elastin fibres. So we have to stimulate elastin and collagen production through our Density Repair facials,’ explained Beauté Pacifique South Africa master trainer, Erna Keevy, who was on hand at For Beautiful Life Medical Aesthetics in Dunkeld, Johannesburg to perform the treatment.

She scanned my skin with the DermaScan and compared the image to that of my first scan (taken before I was put onto the Beauté Pacifique home care regime).

It was evident from the before & after images that there was a definite improvement in my skin’s epidermis and dermis. After futher analysing my skin, Keevy noted that it had improved in terms of elasticity and hydration. In addition, my skin had not felt dry at all through the winter months.

Keevy explained that this particular Beauté Pacifique Density Repair facial incorporates the use of Soprano ICE Infrared technology, which is painless and non-invasive.

To commence the treatment, Keevy used Waterproof Eye Make-up Remover, followed by a thorough cleanse with One Step, as well as Cleansing Foam. Next came the exfoliation phase using the Gentle Facial Exfoliator, which was removed under steam.

Keevy then applied the Deep Pore Cleansing Mask on my oily T-zone, with Instant Hydrating Mask and Xtra Dry Skin Fix on the rest of my face. She massaged this in for about 15 minutes before removing the excess product.

The next stage of the treatment was to have infrared technology applied to my face, using the Instant Hydrating Mask as the gliding medium. Tasneem Valley, the beauty aesthetician at For Beautiful Life Meical Aesthetics, applied the Soprano ICE infrared applicator on my face, spending 10 minutes on each section. She explained that the heat from the device boosts collagen production, while tightening, firming and sculpting the skin.

The Soprano ICE heated the temperature of my skin up to 39 degrees centigrade and the heat was very bearable.

To finish off the treatment, Keevy applied the following

Beauté Pacifique products: Line Combat Fluid around eye area and forehead; Defy Damage Skin Repair Serum; Crème Paradoxe Eye Cream; Crème Paradoxe Face Cream; and finally, Stay Beautiful SPF 30.

I was delighted with how my skin looked following this facial – plumped up and glowing with radiance. PB Contact Blue Sky International on erna@blueskyinternational.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za

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Winner of the 2018 Professional Beauty Award for Game Reserve Spa of the Year, Enviro Sanctuary Spa embodies a number of unique concepts in its philosophy and design. JOANNA STERKOWICZ speaks to owner and founder, MARIA VILJOEN, to find out more.

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he 4-Star Thaba Tshwene Game Lodge, within which the Enviro Sanctuary Spa is situated, is a 326ha property in North West that was purchased in 2005

by Maria and Marius Viljoen with the intent of it being their private home.

Says Maria Viljoen: “However, one evening, while overlooking the magnificent view, the idea was born to share this with others and turn it into a game lodge. Construction started in 2006 and Thaba Tshwene was officially opened on 11 January 2007.

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When the idea of the spa was conceived, it led to more and more research into self-healing and understanding how the body and sub-conscious are connected.

“Two years later, we decided to add a spa to the lodge and for three weeks I literally did nothing else other than plan and design the task that lay ahead.

The foundation for the spa was built in 2010 and so our dream began. It took a while though for the foundation to settle into the surroundings against the ‘koppie’ (i.e. small hill). In 2014 the floors were filled in and the construction started.”

Enviro Sanctuary Spa opened in March 2017.

Holistic approach It’s unusual for a spa to encourage people to take ownership for their own well-being, as for most spas, guests are regarded as passive recipients of their services.

However, it has always been

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Spa at a glance Owner/ Operator: Maria Viljoen Brands: Pevonia Number of treatment rooms: 8 Number of full-time therapists: 2 Facilities: meditation room, swimming pool, bistro, infra-red sauna, steam room, spa gardens, gazebos for al-fresco treatments

an interest of Viljoen’s to empower herself and others with knowledge.

She continues: “When the idea of the spa was conceived, it led to more and more research into self-healing and understanding how the body and sub-conscious are connected. It really all boils down to my love of teaching and wanting to help others to be the best that they can be. However, I can sense when guests just want to receive the physical treatments only.

“Over the years I have built up a wealth of spiritual and natural healing knowledge, stemming from my childhood

in an orphanage, where natural ingredients were used for children’s health, for example, Epsom salts. Because of this, I used every opportunity to avoid modern medicine to source a healthier and more natural option. This is the type of information that I want to share with the people that visit our spa,” comments Viljoen.

Five levels Uniquely, the spa building is laid out on five levels, as Viljoen didn’t want to spoil the natural landscape of the ‘koppie’.

“So, I decided to immerse the building into the backdrop > online @ probeauty.co.za

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Signature concepts

and incorporate indooroutdoor living. The idea behind the design of the five levels is to curve the spa into the surroundings and create space for enough energy flow.

“I feel that the large windows and ‘stacking doors’ throughout the spa lend themselves to the aesthetic. To tie all of the aspects together, there is a strong focus on hues of colour, textures and Feng Shui,” notes Viljoen.

Eco aspects She explains that the whole idea of a self-aware, natural healing spa would only work if ‘certain tainted luxuries’ were removed.

To this end, Viljoen initiated a digital detox zone, to encourage guests not to have any digital items in the spa.

In addition, there is no artificial ventilation. Although only low energy light bulbs are used, natural light emanating from the large windows, stacking doors and numerous mirrors, is always preferred. Solar geysers were installed in the bathrooms, as well as low flow shower heads and toilets.

During the building of the spa, the natural stone was used to clad the rustic walls and pillars. Gum poles were used and most of what was cleared was incorporated back into the building itself.

Back story For the first 23 years of her career, Viljoen was a Grade 1 music and remedial teacher, who won a Sanlam award for teaching people to read.

“During this time I also worked alongside my husband, Marius, at our family-owned gym, which offered aerobics, body building and various slimming techniques.

We opened a 5-room guest house with a venue named ‘Villa Maria’ in 2001, which was soon bursting at the seams with businessmen/ women. This prompted the building of seven extra rooms.

“It was at this stage that my teaching career gave way to the hospitality industry, as I spent my days cooking, cleaning and serving guests. With the success of the guest house, more staff were added and again the need arose for more rooms. We now have 24 rooms, three function venues, a magical chapel, a 58-seater dining room and an executive boardroom.

Due to the majestic and serene setting of Thaba Tshwene Game Lodge, I decided to add to the destination feel by adding the extra experience of a spa.”

Spiritual odyssey Viljoen has recently taken the spa into what she describes as ‘a more spiritual direction’.

“Although this is a large aspect of the spa, it is displayed very subtly throughout, from the music that is played, to the colours that have been used, to the layout. It works on the idea that all matter is vibrating at specific frequencies, and sickness, disease, depression and stress cause human beings to vibrate at a lower frequency. Therefore the music that is played in the spa has been selected for its positive frequencies, which is absorbed by the cells in the body, resulting in the uplifting of a guest’s individual vibrations.

“Everything that I have created in the spa has a subconscious effect on the mind, human body and spirit.”

Enviro Sanctuary Spa does not have a signature treatment as such, however it has incorporated the Reflexology Sensory Path, Labyrinth and Grounding Route as the spa’s signature.

“Each of these concepts ties in with self-healing and taking ownership to promote your own well-being and the connection of all your senses.

However, our massage selection is our most popular treatment, and this includes reflexology,” states Viljoen.

She notes that the Reflexology Sensory Path is a footpath created to stimulate the acupressure points on the soles of your feet, which represent different parts of the body, with various textures (e.g. tiger’s eye for bone density).

Along this pathway Viljoen has planted various herbs and plants that accentuate the experience.

There are benches where guests can stop, rest and take it all in, as well as essential oils for guests to massage certain pressure points that are aggravated, as each pressure point in the foot is connected to a part of the body.

“The object of this exercise is to focus while you are walking and to listen to what your body is telling you,” she emphasises.

In terms of the Grounding Route, Viljoen maintains that ground-to-foot vibrations are an important energising power that help to calibrate and serve the body’s life forces. “Taking a barefoot walk releases the negative ions that have built up in your body from everyday life pressures and electro-magnetic fields. Doing this regularly keeps you revived, energised and maintains your immune system.”

Clients are encouraged to read the notes along the path, as well as touch, smell and experience the different herbs and learn about their properties to empower themselves.

“At Enviro we firmly believe that the entrance to ‘The Sanctuary’ is inside you,” concludes Viljoen. PB

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Lighting in the spa space

Research and various studies have shown that lighting can improve mood and energy levels, affect concentration and appetite, as well as contribute to depression and anxiety. MARISA DIMITRIADIS delves deeper into this illuminating topic.

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ince we are focusing on wellness and services that enhance wellbeing, lighting in the spaces that we offer these services is so important and needs to be given much thought and planning.

Before I suggest some ideas on different lighting to use in the various areas of your spa, let’s take a quick look at several types of lighting and what they are used for, and then apply that to our industry.

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What you don’t want in a reception area is lighting that causes a glare, which is the enemy when it comes to lighting.

Practical lighting This type of lighting is needed for cleaning, as well as to see clearly. For example, the reception area of a spa requires

a combination of practical lighting, mood lighting and feature lighting. A steam room requires an effective combination of practical lighting and mood lighting. If only mood lighting is used, then when it comes time for cleaning, the room is not clearly visible enough to clean properly. On the other hand, if only practical lighting is used in a steam room, it destroys the mood as it is too bright to relax.

A good idea for a reception area would be practical lighting comprising cool, white LED

eliminate any glare whatsoever, be it from natural or artificial light sources. Don’t fall into the trap of having direction spotlights above the reception desk as that will definitely cause glare.

Mood lighting This is lighting that is used to set a specific mood and is exciting in a spa space as there are various areas where you want to set different moods. For example, in a relaxation area you could have simple down facing lights that are dimmed and then install a floor level LED strip light behind the chairs to create a calming and inviting space. If, for instance, you had a central water pond in the area, you could use uplighters in it to highlight a feature hanging from the ceiling over the pond.

Feature lighting This type of lighting is used to make something stand out. Feature lighting has the potential to be the most expensive of all lighting, but can also be the ‘wow’ factor in your spa and a talking point.

When investing in feature lighting, make sure the light feature can be photographed well, as you want consumers to take pictures and post them to as many social media sites possible.

Horizontal illumination lighting, which allows functions like reception work and cleaning to take place. You could use vertical illumination against a back wall in a warmer tone light to enhance the mood and give the space a warm, welcoming feeling.

What you don’t want in a reception area is lighting that causes a glare, which is the enemy when it comes to lighting. Glare induces a state of confusion and should be avoided at all costs. When planning your lighting, it is vital that you

Horizontal illumination is lighting from above that directly hits the floor or any other horizontal surface, like a countertop. A nail table light is an example of horizontal illumination.

Another example of horizontal illumination is a ceiling light fitting as the light hits directly down on the surfaces below. A side lamp is considered both horizontal and vertical because it hits the surface below, as well as the walls.

Vertical illumination This is lighting that hits the walls.

Vertical illumination can be the cause of glare so take care when planning where you are going to make use of this type of lighting.

When used correctly, vertical illumination in the spa can create spectacular mood. For instance, it can enhance any wall finish in a spa wet area.

Colour intensity By definition, colour intensity is the difference between white and yellow/ reddish light, or warm vs cool lighting. Ensure that you think about every area of the spa with a mood or feeling in mind and work backwards by then deciding on warm or cool lighting tones. Warm tones always calm and relax, while cool tones give more energy and vitality.

As examples, you could use a shower head with cool tone lighting for a feeling of vitality and upliftment, and perhaps use warm colour lighting in a halotherapy chamber (salt rooms), making use of colour to enhance the therapy.

Water Finally, let’s look briefly into the most important aspect of lighting in a spa – the safety factor of combining water and lighting (requiring electricity) as, after all, a spa is all about water. It is easy and beautiful to combine water and lighting, provided all safety measures have been considered.

If you are in the planning phase of your spa or already in construction phase, or you already have a spa and want the lighting re-looked at, my best advice to you is to have a 3D render of the space done, with the exact light fittings you plan to use to get the closest possible to real effect. PB Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder of The Spa Consultants, an award-winning and leading spa development consultancy business. marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

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Professional Make-up

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Bold Beautiful

&

This striking gallery of images is courtesy of Kryolan South Africa, with photography by Anthony Horak.

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glam

31 Professional Make-up

TRENDING

We asked professional make-up artist and author, RYNO MULDER, to outline the predominant make-up techniques that are currently on trend globally.

Fluffy brows Brows have evolved from ‘fleeky’ (big, black and angular) to softer, less defined and more obviously fluffy. So swap out the gel liner and pencils for matte brow powder that is a touch lighter than your client’s natural hair colour, and run that through the brows with an angle brush.

Top it off with a lick of clear brow gel but brush the brow hair upwards as to allow the individual brow hair to show for a more textured and far less defined brow than before.

‘Glowy’ not ‘hoe-y’ The cheek highlighter trend seen on Tinman from ‘The Wizard of Oz’ with virtual mirror reflection is passé. Highlighter was always intended to impart skin with a healthful sheen – not as space age war paint that emphasises texture like pores, spots and lines.

Use a slightly lighter foundation on areas you want to highlight, like the inner corners of the eyes, Cupid’s bow or cheekbones. And for a truly sophisticated glow, tap on the tiniest quantity of any clear balm on the cheekbones using only your ring finger.

Lash out False lashes aren’t going anywhere. But take care with semi-permanent extensions worn for weeks at a time, which can be damaging if you’re allergic to the adhesive. I prefer strip lashes as

these are affordable, require no commitment with maintenance and you can switch up your lash style daily. The way that celebs are getting ultra glamourous lash looks on the red carpet is not necessarily by using strip lashes, but their make-up artists would build differing lengths of individual or cluster lashes to get a more realistic effect.

‘Cant-our’ Contouring is a highly stylised make-up technique that was developed during Hollywood’s Golden Era, when black and white cinematography required dramatic face shaping. Although it still is a standard way to balance facial features for the purposes of a photo shoot, it is a skill that only comes with huge amounts of practice. Subtle use of highlighter and blush will yield beautiful results that don’t look bizarre, so skip the contours unless you’re a make-up master.

Shadow play The beauty industry needs to mesmerise consumers with a constant cycle of newness but the truth is that certain colours are timeless and always flattering.

Warm, toned, brown eyeshadow shades work well on the lightest to darkest complexions and suit every eye colour. It is better to invest in versatile, matte neutral colours than to break the bank and fill your drawers with sparkly ‘fashion brights’ that you’ll end up using twice.

Ryno Mulder is known for his powerful make-up transformations on women of any age and complexion. Mulder started his career as a beauty editor working on many of South Africa’s top glossy magazines. As a freelancer, Mulder has worked with celebrities and models, taking him to international destinations.

He wrote a bestselling beauty book called ‘Maklik Mooi’, which sold 10 000 copies. Mulder is now bringing his Hollywood inspired make-up artistry to everyday women with his sell-out make-up masterclasses in cities all over South Africa.

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Skincare

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Is

blue-light damaging your skin?

Postdoctoral researcher at the University of Pretoria, DR DANIELLE TWILLEY, gives the low-down on blue-light.

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here are many environmental factors that influence the health of your skin. Ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun have a significant effect on skin and eye health and are able to cause considerable damage. UV radiation is not only a major contributor of premature skin ageing but also one of the primary causes of skin cancer.

High-energy visible (HEV) light, more commonly referred to as blue-light, has been identified as a new potential threat to the well-being of your skin and eyes.

Blue-light is naturally emitted from the sun, which can elevate your mood and boost alertness, however artificial sources which include devices such as your computer, smartphone and tablet screens, or any devices that use fluorescent or LED lighting can cause negative effects.

The use of smartphones and laptops at night has led to an increase in exposure to artificial blue-light, which can cause various detrimental effects to your sleep pattern (circadian rhythm) and your eyes. online @ probeauty.co.za

The use of smartphones and laptops at night has led to an increase in exposure to artificial blue-light, which can cause various detrimental effects to your sleep pattern (circadian rhythm) and your eyes.

Frowning and squinting when looking at your smartphone can also have a substantial effect on your skin.

Ongoing debates There are ongoing debates on whether blue-light has damaging effects on your

skin and contributes towards premature skin ageing. A study conducted in 2010 published in the journal Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, reported that short term exposure to blue-light did not cause early photo-ageing or damage to DNA, however a short term increase in melanogenesis was observed.

A 2014 study in Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research, confirmed the stimulation of hyperpigmentation by blue-light. A more recent study published in August this year in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, showed that when human epidermal keratinocytes cells (which make up the outer layer of the skin) were directly exposed to a source of blue-light, such as a tablet, the cells became sensitised, which could potentially lead to impaired regenerative cellular functions.

Additionally, keratinocytes that were exposed to blue-light showed

the potential to absorb UV and have antioxidant properties which help to scavenge reactive oxygen species generated through exposure to UV light.

Reactive oxygen species have the potential to cause damage to various components in the skin, which can lead to premature skin ageing and the development of skin cancer.

South African plants provide a good source for additive ingredients into sunscreens as photo-protective agents. Over 10% of the floral species in South Africa have traditionally been used as medicines. A patent on an indigenous South African plant, Helichrysum odoratissimum, has been shown to increase the

98% of UV rays, whereas an SPF 15 blocks out 93%, there needs to be a regular application of the sunscreen throughout the day to be effective. Additionally, the stability, safety and efficacy of the natural products needs to be determined before incorporation into a sunscreen.

Another important aspect to take into consideration, is the movement towards reef-friendly ingredients in sunscreens, as various sunscreen ingredients have been linked to an increase in coral bleaching, thereby causing major harmful effects to the ocean’s ecosystem.

SPF of a sunscreen from 15 to 32.4, due to the high antioxidant activity of the plant extract. This extract has also shown activity against skin cancer cells in vitro.

Numerous examples

an increased production of reactive oxygen species, inflammatory mediators and DNA damage, when compared to keratinocytes which were kept in the dark.

There is numerous evidence published on the harmful effects of blue-light on your eyes, however more research needs to be conducted in order to determine the degree of damage caused to skin and whether artificial blue-light can cause long-term side effects.

Protection from UV radiation, by daily use of a sunscreen, remains one of the most essential ways to prevent against premature skin ageing and photo-damage.

Plants Natural resources, such as plants, are becoming sought after alternatives as additives into sunscreen products, due to the phenolic and flavonoid type compounds. These natural products/ compounds have

There are numerous other examples of natural products and whole plant extracts that have been tested for their photoprotective properties. A review published in 2015 in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, has summarised reports of plants as potential photo-protectants.

Commonly known plant sources have been tested for their ability to protect against UV radiation, such as turmeric, bilberry, grape seeds, green tea, as well as epigallocatechin-gallate found within tea and numerous other plant based sources.

An article published in Biogerontology entitled “Plant extracts and natural compounds used against UVB-induced photoaging”, provides a comprehensive review on natural products found within plants and their ability to protect against UVB induced photo-ageing through various mechanisms.

It is important to note that although sunscreens are able to block out the majority of UV rays, for instance an SPF 50 blocks out approximately

Even though the effect of blue-light on skin is not yet fully understood, sunscreens which contain natural products and plant extracts rich in antioxidant content, provide the best defence against damage caused by exposure to harmful and potentially harmful light sources.

Another trend to take note of is anti-pollutant skincare products, which also incorporate antioxidant actives to protect against skin damage caused by pollution. PB Dr Danielle Twilley, completed her PhD degree in Medicinal Plant Science in 2018.

Her main research focus is on the use of South African plants and their potential to be used against skin cancer. During 2018, she received the L’OrealUNESCO for Women in Science International Rising Talents award for her research regarding the significant activity of a South African plant against melanoma. She is currently a postdoctoral researcher at the University of Pretoria, continuing her research in the potential of medicinal plants for the treatment of cancer. berrington.danielle@gmail.com

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Skincare

33

Skincare

34

fight THE

against

blue-light We take a look at skincare products that help to combat blue-light, that form of light that emanates insidiously from the screens of our laptops, mobile phones, tablets and TVs. It is also emitted by the sun.

A

ccording to the experts at TheraVine, blue-light that originates from digital devices causes oxidative stress and accelerated ageing, while increasing the risk of photo-ageing and delaying the skin’s barrier recovery.

They continue: “This form of light penetrates deeper into the skin than both UVA and UVB light can and carries a greater potential for skin damage. The only reason why we are now more aware of blue-light than ever, is due to the fact that this now originates not only from the sun but also from every possible digital device you can think of: smartphone screens, computers and televisions, as well as LED lamps. They all emit a high amount of blue-light wavelengths.”

The TheraVine expoerts point out that apart from the damage to the skin, blue-light further disrupts the sleep cycle as it inhibits melatonin, the hormone that affects the circadian rhythm and regulates the body’s natural clock. The overuse of screen devices especially before it’s time to go to bed therefore doesn’t only just affect the skin, but also wreaks havoc with one’s beauty sleep.

Lutein

Lilac

To protect against bluelight, Environ recommends C-Quence Crème, which is formulated with lutein, an antioxidant that significantly reduces free radical activity. A carotenoid that combats the energy of blue-light, it is a derivative of the marigold flower.

“Any free radical damage caused by blue light will be mopped up by our brigade of antioxidants that are cocktailed into our formulations, which can be found in our Essential and Specialist ranges,” say the Environ team.

In a time when digital devices with screens are exposing the skin to even greater levels of blue-light, which has a similar oxidative effect as UV light, Your Daily High Protection Sun Cream from Team Dr Joseph’s has highly innovative UVA and UVB filters to help prevent pigmentation and skin ageing.

The product is formulated with a photoprotector for maximum protection.

A central functional ingredient in this product is obtained from the flowers of the summer lilac.

This not only provides the skin with optimal protection against natural light, but also against artificial light.

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35 Antioxidant protection is imperative to counteract skin damage that comes with exposure to UV and Visible Light, according to Ursula Volbrecht of DermaFix. She continues: “DermaFix Ferulic + C + E is a high potency vitamin C blend working to boost antioxidant protection for up to 72 hours after application. Vitamin C is also vital for the formation of healthy collagen and elastin, assisting in the fight against cellular ageing and damage, as well as providing skin brightening benefits for a hyperpigmented skin. The inclusion of Ferulic Acid works to enhance antioxidant protection, while vitamin E offers further barrier restoration support.

Skincare

Vitamin C “In addition to antioxidant protection, using a suitable sunscreen is an absolute essential in the fight against both UV and Visible Light damage. Mineral sunscreen ingredients including zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are especially beneficial to help block out visible light.

These can be found in the DermaFix DermaShield SPF 50 High UVA/UVB Sunscreen.”

DNA-repair complex QMS Cellular Sun Protection SPF50 is a balanced UVA/ UVB protection formulated with an innovative DNArepair complex that protects against premature skin ageing. The encapsulated liposomes with the DNARepair Enzyme supports the skin’s DNA repair mechanism.

Once a DNA repair enzyme reaches a photo-aged skin, it activates the skin cell’s repair mechanism and counteracts developing skin damage and also strengthens the immune system of the skin and supports the natural skin pigmentation. >

Skincare

36 Sunflower oil

Highly active

All of the products in the Placecol Excellence range contain sunflower oil, an antioxidant that is rich in vitamin E to calm reactive skin and control signs of premature ageing.

Rice peptides provide a nutritional supplement to the skin that actively improves barrier function and acts as a defence mechanism against stress.

“In addition, three of the products in the Excellence range (Gravity Lift, Brighten and Pure Solution) contain tropaeolum majus flower, an anti-oxidant which offers skin protection against blue-light rays from cell phones and screens, bringing Placecol clients the latest in skincare technology,” says Placecol Group CEO, Esna Colyn.

Crème Paradoxe from Beauté Pacifique is a highly effective anti-ageing day cream with completely new and nearly medical properties. The cream is based on a high content of the two highly active ingredients, procyanidin and resveratrol, that both delay the ageing process, repair sun damage, fight and prevent causes of blushing, and rebuild a healthy and robust skin.

The cream provides the skin with two forms of vitamin A esters, added at an optimised amount that, when combined with the Beauté Pacifique Vitamin A night creams, improves the inner structure of the skin. Crème Paradoxe also contains ingredients that are vascular constrictors.

IR According to the experts at TheraVine, studies have revealed the negative effects of another culprit not visible to the human eye, but rather felt as heat. Infrared (IR), and especially near IR, generates the production of IRinduced free radicals in the dermis and depletes the skin’s antioxidant capacity. It can further penetrate the dermis, which directly results in age-related skin concerns.

online @ probeauty.co.za

IR is mainly absorbed by the mitochondria known as the ‘powerhouse’ of our cells, where it disrupts the production of energy that is essential for the proper functioning of our cells and tissues.

TheraVine’s Anti-Pollution Infra Shield not only protects from urban pollution, but also from the effects of digital pollution.

This multi-tasking triple action new generation lotion is light in texture and contains the powerful active InfraGuard™, designed to fend off and counteract the effect of pollution on the skin, while also protecting against both infrared and blue light. With twice daily use, the skin will be strengthened and shielded from the impact of digital ageing.

More mature, dry or dehydrated skin types can apply the Infra Shield over a day or night cream to add its protective properties additionally to the benefits of that of day and/ or night cream. The product’s thinner lotion texture allows more oily skin types to apply this product on its own, over a face oil or suitable serum. PB

37 Hair news

Crowning GLORY

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front

Eric Way Lovemore scoops Wahl Photographic Competition

O

Overall winner of the 2019 Wahl Photographic Competition was judged to be Eric Way Lovemore.

Winners were announced at an awards ceremony held on 2 September at Salon International, the leading trade show for the hair industry, held at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand.

Wahl’s Suzette Coetzee and Jason Knight were on hand to hand out prizes, along with head judge Dennis Randall.

Way Lovemore also won two other categories, namely Female Fashion Cut & Colour and Male Fashion Cut & Colour. In addition, he placed third in the Best of Barbering category.

Toufique Behardien won Best of Barbering, with Lizelle Olivier

triumphing in the Avant Garde Category.

Here is the full list of results Female Fashion Cut & Colour

Said Randall: “The work has been incredible and the competition absolutely phenomenal. I’ve just got back from judging in Russia and believe me, we are on top in South Africa. Wahl has taken barbering to the next level and we’ve experienced that now with the judging of this competition.

The clipper work has been unbelievable.

1st – Eric Way Lovemore

“We had such a hard task as judges to find our Top 3 in every category. Each criteria was judged under the elements of design, line, form, texture and of course colour, where necessary. Every competitor was a winner.

2nd – Jesse Gallan

2nd – Lizelle Olivier 3rd – Kyle Van Wyk Male Fashion Cut & Colour 1st – Eric Way Lovemore 2nd – Adel Zid 3rd – Dumisani Lukhozi Best of Barbering 1st – Toufique Behardien 3rd – Eric Way Lovemore Avant Garde 1st – Lizelle Olivier 2nd – Marlie Van Der Merwe 3rd – Joycelen Bowkers

“I’m so impressed to see that the number of entries tripled this year.

Let’s go for it again next year and keep up the good work!”

online @ probeauty.co.za

Devices

38

alluring silhouette In search of an

The global body contouring market is predicted to reach $1.1 billion by 2022, growing at a CAGR (Compound Annual Growth Rate) of 7.9%, according to MediPoint: Body Contouring - Global Analysis and Market Forecasts.

I

n recent years, non-surgical body contouring procedures have gained popularity as consumers look for less painful, cost-effective and safer alternatives to get the desired body shape.

So says Hitech Lasers’ Naomi Olivier, referencing Goldstein Research. “Non-invasive and minimallyinvasive body contouring is the largest segment in the body contouring market and is expected to occupy more than 75% of the overall market share by 2024. This is due to many state-of-the-art body contouring machines that can provide an effective treatment without the expense or risks involved with similar surgical treatments.”

She notes that the growing number of men seeking aesthetic procedures, as well as a rise in obesity and lack of exercise, are fueling the growth, as well as the desire to avoid riskier and costly surgery.

Research conducted by Syneron Candela reveals that 95% of women have cellulite; 70% of women say they worry about developing a tummy bulge; and one in three women say they have considered more than just dieting and exercise to get rid of their fat.

Venus LegacyTM

Non-invasive and minimally-invasive body contouring is the largest segment in the body contouring market and is expected to occupy more than 75% of the overall market share by 2024.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Venus Concept offers three devices in this market, namely Venus Freeze PlusTM , Venus VersaTM and Venus LegacyTM .

“Each device is suited to various entry points, depending on space usage, degree of specialisation, budget and the future vision of our customers,” explains Thyrza Price, marketing manager for Venus Concept Africa. “Treatments are comfortable with no downtime and are safe for all skin types.

Our unique proprietary (MP)2 body shaping technology is a

combination of Multi-Polar Radio Frequency and Pulsed Electro Magnetic Fields (PEMF).”

She notes that Multi-Polar RF uses a complex algorithm to deliver homogeneous energy and volumetric heating to multiple tissue depths, allowing for quick and safe build-up of heat, and easy maintenance of therapeutic temperature throughout the treatment. Through synergistic (MP)2, RF thermal energy causes collagen contraction, while PEMF is

Devices

39

known to promote angiogenesis and induce fibroblast proliferation through release of the growth factor, FGF-2, resulting in increased collagen synthesis.

Price continues: “Our flagship body contouring device, the Venus LegacyTM , features cutting-edge VariPulseTM technology in the 4D Body Applicator.

The array of electrodes with up to 7.5cm distance between them provide a large spot size for faster treatments and deliver significant depth of penetration (up to 4.5cm) for greater effect on deeper tissue. >

online @ probeauty.co.za

Devices

40 “The innovative dual multipolar electrode crown design features the outer crown which controls electro-thermal volumetric heating, while the inner deep tetra-polar crown provides adjustable, pulsed suction that facilitates effective lipolysis and deeper energy penetration. It targets subcutaneous fat deposits and cellulite, increases blood circulation, stimulates lymphatic drainage, and enhances the lipolysis effect of RF energy.”

Trim & TiteTM with Venus LegacyTM promotes the combination of a skin tightening solution after completing a fat reduction treatment, or during a weight loss programme.

Price comments: “Incorporating this device enables you to provide a complete body shaping package.

The ability to offer body shaping services is an often overlooked and ignored potential revenue stream. Businesses who find their revenue stream or client base stagnating, should consider this powerful addition to their service menu.”

Vsmooth is specifically for cellulite treatments, while the Vcontour includes three different types of disposable heads namely small, medium and large.

Small is for treating double chin areas, medium is specifically for skin tightening (body) and circumferential reduction, while large is for localised fatty pockets.’

Eksteen recommends three treatments for body contouring (i.e. one treatment every two weeks). Cellulite patients will need four treatments, also one treatment every two weeks.

“In terms of body contouring, you can even take it a step further and offer a VelaOnce treatment, where the patient will only need a single, long treatment,” she states.

LPG Endermologie

Cooltech

Manufactured in France, LPG Endermologie is positioned as the natural and non-invasive alternative to slimming and toning.

Says Alison Yammin of Marine Spa Distributors: “With over 30 years of experience, LPG Endermologie has proven that a healthy and respected skin is the key to a beautiful figure and radiant, youthful skin, by offering a 100% natural technique.

“This technique uses mechanical stimulation to naturally awaken dormant cellular activity within the skin to fight all localised resistant fat, cellulite, the orange peel effect, and more.”

LPG Endermologie is based on the synergy of two science-approved technologies that allow the device to reactivate fat elimination, while improving skin quality at the same time. It is a single, tailor-made treatment for simultaneous slimming and anti-ageing results.

Velashape III Distributed by Radiant Healthcare, the Velashape III uses four different types of technologies combined in one platform – infrared; radio frequency; vacuum and rollers.

Says Radiant’s Melissa Eksteen: “The Velashape III is indicated for cellulite reduction, body contouring, skin tightening, body after baby, pre and post liposuction and localised fatty pockets.

“This device consists of two different applicators, namely the Vsmooth and the Vcontour applicators.

online @ probeauty.co.za

The Cooltech:Fat Feeze System is a non-invasive device for full body contouring – arms, legs, stomach, love handles, chin and knees.

Says Eksteen: “Cooltech removes up to 20% fat in just one treatment, and it has two handles, treating two areas simultaneously.

This is a CE medically approved device which operates at a treatment temperature of -8 degrees Celsius. We recommend that between one and four areas are treated per year, with one to three sessions per treatment area.”

Exilis

Onda

According to Branislav Sučanský of BTL Medical SA, the Exilis system is a popular radio frequency (RF) dynamic monopolar device that combines simultaneous delivery of focused monopolar RF and ultrasound.

“There are a number of built-in safety features, including Peltier cooling. Exilis delivers energy through two different hand applicators, one designed for the face and one designed for the body.

“The goal of treatment is to raise the surface temperature to 40-42°C. When this temperature is reached, the patient feels a comfortably warm sensation. The Peltier cooling can be adjusted up or down to allow targeting of skin or subcutaneous tissue. For example, to drive heating more deeply, the skin is cooled and protected, allowing heat to reach into the subcutaneous fat. Alternatively, to get maximum effect on skin laxity, cooling is turned off and heating of the skin occurs quickly, with minimal effect on subcutaneous fat.”

Sučanský points out that with the body applicator, the skin temperature is monitored and continuously displayed by an on-board infrared temperature sensor. When the device senses spikes in RF delivery, these spikes are automatically reduced. Constant monitoring of energy flow through tissue (impedance) detects tip contact with skin.

The device is equipped with an energy flow control system, which automatically shuts off the device when the tip contact and/or energy flow is disrupted, thus virtually eliminating the risks of burns. All the safety features allow use of high power (watts), which then leads to faster treatment times while ensuring the greatest level of safety and comfort.

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With microwaves trademarked as Coolwaves™, Deka’s Onda is a non-invasive, multitasking system.

Says Naomi Ollivier of Hitech Lasers: “It is the only body contouring system that delivers three actions in one, namely reduction by the removal of localised fat, remodeling through the treatment of cellulite, and regeneration courtesy of skin tightening.”

She explains that Onda selectively targets fat cells to accelerate the metabolism of localised fat cells and stimulate the production of new collagen by delivering Coolwaves™ through two smart hand pieces: one for shallow areas of fat and another for deeper areas of fat.

The hand pieces emit Coolwaves™ in a controlled manner (at a specific frequency – 2.45GHz – that is preferentially absorbed by fat molecules), emitting energy only where it is needed. An integrated cooling system acts as a barrier between the Coolwaves™ >

Devices

41

Devices

42

delivery source and the skin, eliminating the risk of hot spots. Since the skin contains mostly water but no fat, the Coolwaves™ pass through it harmlessly and targets the underlying fat layer.

After the tissue is heated with microwaves, there is an oxygen reaction in the membrane and fat cells are destroyed in the membrane.

The contents of the fat cells are released into the lymphatic system where they are then safely cleared by the body’s natural metabolic processes.

Olivier comments: “The delivery of Coolwaves™ together with the integrated cooling systems helps to reduce the damage and discomfort to the skin from heat, resulting in a safer and more comfortable treatment. There is neither bruising to surrounding tissue nor damage to nerves or blood vessels.

“Coolwaves™ also targets the connective tissue, shrinking and stimulating collagen fibres in the treated area for a skintightening effect. The device effectively acts on connective tissue surrounding adipose

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lobules in more advanced cellulite stages. Collagen fibres in the lower layers of skin immediately contract and collagen production is boosted, which tightens and smooths the tissue, firming up saggy skin.”

The Onda treatment is a walk-in-walk out, 60 to 90 minute, non-surgical, noninvasive, office-based procedure that requires no anaesthesia, sedation, incisions or needles.

It is a pain-free, comfortable and convenient fat treatment with no downtime and no marks whatsoever. The client will continue to feel warmth on the treated area for a few minutes after the session, assuring them that Onda was doing its fatmelting work.

“This body sculpting treatment is not a weight loss therapy, but is designed for adults with excess stubborn areas of fat, with loose skin or with resistant cellulite. Onda launched in 2018 and has already received two prestigious industry awards – the Anti-Aging & Beauty Trophy 2018-2019 for Best Non-Invasive Boy Shaping Technology, as well as The Aesthetic Industry Awards Aesthetic Winner 2018,” concludes Olivier.

Accent Prime™ Distributed by Best Lasers, the Accent Prime from Alma Lasers is its top-of-the-line workstation for body contouring, skin tightening and aesthetic enhancement.

States Best Lasers’ Nicola Steenkamp: “The platform combines the latest innovations in ultrasound and radio

frequency (RF) technologies to deliver effective, highly customised treatments with natural, long lasting results.

“Backed by years of proven clinical success as a staple in the field of body contouring, Alma’s Accent Prime platform offers its latest generation, which simultaneously targets adipocytes and tightens collagen, achieving optimal results using multiple technologies.”

Hands-free, stationary applicators designed for body contouring and skin tightening and incorporating resonant FR heating are exclusively used with Alma’s Accent Prime platform.

Utilising 40.68 MHz, AlmaWave Accentuate tightens and shapes large areas of the body safely and effectively by delivering energy within the skin. Offering independent left and rightside parameters, Accentuate also enables real-time patient temperature monitoring, adding increased control and freedom for practitioners and patients alike.

Accentuate provides optimal results when used in a combined protocol following use with the UltraSpeed ultrasound hand piece. This synergetic combination of RF and ultrasound technologies enables enhanced effectiveness and significantly improved results.

“Alma Lasers is a solid, globally recognised medical aesthetic technology brand.

It holds a leading position with proven clinical achievements and an impeccable safety record, receiving FDA approval for its Accent family of body contouring systems since 2007. With Accent Prime, both your patients and your clinic are in good hands,” comments Steenkamp. PB

43 Aesthetic Medicine

The

collagen conclusion Collagen supplementation in skincare clinics, be it in liquid or powder form, has become fairly commonplace today. KAREN ELLITHORNE looks into the claims and myths surrounding ingestible collagen supplements.

I

n recent years, skincare centres have not only evolved in their treatment offerings but their retail offerings too. As more scientific clinical studies are done, it is becoming quite obvious that there is a connection between health and outer beauty.

With claims being made that collagen supplementation can even have a more superior result on the skin than an average anti-wrinkle cream, it is no wonder that most up-market skincare centres are pairing the supplement up with their home care

retail prescriptions to clients.

However, just because we are told something works, it does not necessarily mean it is true.

As humans we tend to accept things we hear as fact without investigating deeper and actually getting into the scientific evidence to back it up. There are some myths regarding how collagen actually works, but first let’s take a look at what collagen is before we look at the controversy.

What is collagen?

Collagen is a key component to the basic structures of the human body and connective tissue. It accounts for 25% - 35% of the protein mass in mammals. It is widely distributed throughout the body, so you will find collagen in the bones, tendons, cartilage, ligaments, skin, blood vessels, hair, nails and teeth.

Due to the tensile strength of collagen, it accommodates numerous important structural functions within the body. This ranges from keeping the skin firm, toned and resilient, to providing the bones with enough rigidity and integrity to remain strong and healthy.

Collagen consists of 28 different protein types. >

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Aesthetic Medicine

44 Type I collagen is the most abundant type of collagen found in the body; it forms more than 90% of the bone mass in the human body and accounts for 80% of human skin. The balance of the skin’s collagen is made up with type III collagen.

What is collagen hydrolysate or hydrolysed collagen?

This is one of the leading forms of ingestible collagen and is produced through the process of enzymatic hydrolysis of the collagen protein. The process of hydrolysis involves breaking down the molecular bonds between each collagen strand, using a combination of enzymes.

This process does not use chemicals, acids or heat, rather the chemicals are dissolved in water. The hydrolysis process results in reducing the collagen proteins into small peptides with low molecular weight. This enables more rapid absorption from intake.

Hydrolised collagen’s peptides contain three times higher amounts of proline glycine and hydroxyproline amino acids. These amino acids are essential for the synthesis of new collagen.

In addition to collagen, these supplements may or may not contain additional supplements, minerals and vitamins, namely: Vitamin C: this is a vitamin that is often added into collagen supplements due to its strong anti-oxidant properties and its ability to reduce cardiovascular disease and strokes. Vitamin C is also a well-known immune booster. In terms of its skincare

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properties, this vitamin is used for its ability to assist in producing healthy collagen and brightening the skin.

Hyaluronic acid: well known for its skin moisturising function, hyaluronic acid enables firmer, more supple skin. From a bone and joint perspective, hyaluronic acid keeps joints well lubricated, assisting with joint pain and bone strength.

Magnesium: this mineral helps to assist with tiredness, fatigue and the normal functioning of the nervous system. It also plays a role in the maintenance of normal healthy bones and teeth.

Vitamin B1, B2, B5 and B6: the B vitamin group is responsible for the general wellness and functioning of our body, especially the nervous system and hormonal activity.

Myths around collagen supplementation Myth 1: We do not need to take collagen as supplementation as our bodies produce enough collagen on their own.

The production of collagen and its degradation are in dynamic balance in the body, where the old collagen is replaced by the new collagen in a continuous cycle.

However, as we age, our bodies tend to produce less collagen. It is said to decline at about a rate of 1.5% per year from the age of 25 onwards. As a result of the collagen decline, we lose density in our bones, our joints become more rigid, our hair thins, skin loses elasticity and muscles weaken.

Because fibroblast activity decreases, collagen production decreases, causing the collagen matrix that supports the skin’s structure to break down. As a result, the skin becomes thinner, dehydrated and wrinkled; fine lines and deeper furrows appear.

Collagen degradation, however, does become more intensive with the multiple exposure to environmental factors including

stress, UV radiation, smoking and unhealthy lifestyle habits.

It has been approved that administering collagen in the form of gelatine or collagen hydrolysate helps to dramatically slow down the reduction of collagen in the body.

Multiple studies have been carried out to conclude that the ingestion of gelatine or collagen hydrolysate dramatically increases endogenous production of collagen by providing free amino acids as building blocks for the formation of new collagen.

Myth 2: Collagen supplements don’t work because the body cannot absorb them.

The assumption here is that the collagen protein is destroyed in the intestines before reaching the rest of the body. Therefore the body cannot benefit.

This is, in theory, correct, however when the collagen is hydrolysed and a low molecular weight, the smaller particles ensure that the collagen remains intact following absorption from the intestine, providing the body with the building blocks required to synthesise collagen.

Conclusion There seems to be enough conclusive evidence to prove that if you are wanting to manage your health and skincare more effectively, you certainly cannot go wrong with a daily routine of supplementing collagen.

However, as with any supplement, if you are not leading a healthy lifestyle and if you are expecting complete miracles, you will be disappointed as the body will always support its vital functioning before it nourishes and revitalises the skin. PB *Please note: the above article is the opinion of the writer and does not necessarily reflect the views of Professional Beauty.

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

Product News

45

market IN THE

Our round-up of new products and treatments

Balanced moisturiser The pHformula Spot On Moisture Balance is a fast absorbing moisturiser specially formulated to provide lightweight hydration, while giving a mattified finish. Key ingredients include lentil seed extract, which is rich in oligosaccharides to diminish the appearance of dilated pores, and NMF for skin health and hydration.

082 338 2368

Pearls galore!

Sans Soucis has launched its new anti-age and radiance range, Illuminating Pearl. As the name suggests, the key ingredient is pearl protein (hydrolysed conchiolin protein), which is extracted from pearls cultivated in Japan. This ingredient promotes radiance, diminishes lines, preserves elasticity, prevents pigmentation and gives the skin a glow.

011 327 3440

Get your ‘glow’ on The Even Skin Glow system from LCN is gently worked into the skin using Nano Needling attachments. This method does not cause any side-effects such as redness or swelling. An improvement of the complexion is already visible after just one treatment. The complexion is refined, the skin appears smoother and balanced.

010 593 3293

online @ probeauty.co.za

Product News

46

Perfect prep

Energetic skin

DermaFix DermaPrep Pre-Cleanse is a deep cleansing water- and oilsoluble preparation for the effective emulsification of eye make-up and foundation.

Suitable for all skin types, the product effectively removes surface impurities leaving no residue on the skin. It contains hemp seed oil for calming, soothing, nourishing and moisturising benefits.

The new Detox Energie™ range from Sothys boosts the skin’s resistance to the environment. It is based on a unique and exclusive trio of active ingredients, including an organic elderberry extract, a new generation of organic energising Siberian ginseng root extract, and detoxifying biomimetic peptides. Skin becomes more luminous

086 128 2323

and oxygenated.

021 701 2900

Gel oil Suitable for normal to dry skin, Thalgo’s MakeUp Removing Cleansing Gel Oil is inspired by Asian beauty rituals.

Naturally coloured with Buriti oil, it is proven to be 100% effective against all types of waterproof make-up and impurities. The warmth of the fingertips turns this gel into an oil upon contact with the face, and when emulsified with water, it becomes a milk.

011 880 3850

Tasty lotion Epi-max® Oatmeal is a light, ultra-caring lotion that restores the compromised skin barrier, soothes and protects dry, sensitive skin and absorbs quickly without feeling greasy. It is free of fragrances, colourants and paraffin. The key ingredients are colloidal oatmeal, oat oil and shea butter.

011 545 9300

Double power From TheraVine, the Silhouette Perfection Oil and Silhouette Contouring Emulsion are positioned as a powerful duo taking body contouring to a new level. Featuring the revolutionary new actives actigym™ and ShapePerfection, both products actively work towards a more defined, slimmer silhouette, while helping to improve body tone.

021 886 6623

Men only Red Dane’s Hydrating Matte Oil is a daily anti-ageing, moisturising oil that hydrates, protects and soothes skin.

Made with over 10 powerful plant oils and extracts, vitamins, antioxidants and hyaluronic acid, it refines, conditions and revitalises skin, leaving it smooth and soft with a healthy glow yet matte appearance.

084 744 2906 online @ probeauty.co.za

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Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

CIDESCO World Congress report back The 67th CIDESCO (World Standard for Beauty & Spa Therapy) World Congress was held from 19 to 23 September in Chicago, USA. This year’s CIDESCO World Congress kicked off with the Examiners Meeting attended

by CIDESCO International Examiners from all around the world. Examiners were kept up to date with educational changes, thus equipping them to offer the best possible examinations to candidates.

Jeannie Sim from Singapore shared her knowledge on examining the Beauty and Spa Management Diploma, followed

by Beverley Crowther from Qatar regarding Media Make-up and Catwalk Fashion Makeup. Vicky Harper, CIDESCO Education Board Member, encouraged a feedback culture amongst Examiners and CIDESCO Training Providers during her session. Guest speakers Erin Anderson demonstrated the Dermapen microneedling device, while Julie Bach spoke on the role therapists can play in the lives of clients touched by cancer in terms of massaging, through the Wellness for Cancer initiative.

A welcome evening was held for all delegates after the meeting.

Schools’ Meeting The Schools’ Meeting, attended by over 40 CIDESCO Schools and over 130 delegates, included a live demonstration of a Facial Examination performed by students and examined by two CIDESCO Examiners, followed by Exam procedural discussions. Babor then shared its sponsorship programme with CIDESCO International for students to study Beauty Therapy. online @ probeauty.co.za

This Social Responsibility programme assists underprivileged learners, the first of which will be sponsored in South Africa in 2020.

Delegates were treated to a Chicago River Boat Cruise and enjoyed a cultural dinner.

General Assembly At the CIDESCO World Congress General Assembly, held on the following day in Chicago, Sandy Fuhr made the South African beauty industry proud when she was elected as the new President of CIDESCO International. Vicky Harper was re-elected onto the CIDESCO Board as Education Quality Assurance Director, Laura Grazioli from Italy was coopted onto the Board for one year in the Sales and Marketing position, and Gerard Gordon was voted in as the Executive Director on the board.

Anna-Cari Gund stepped down as President after serving the organisation for 15 years, with seven years as President.

She was awarded the Highest

Award for Service to CIDESCO International as Honorary President.

SAAHSP – CIDESCO Section South Africa was represented at the General Assembly by Elna Hagen (President) and Joanne Cohen (Education Director). The evening culminated in an elegant gala dinner in Chicago’s tallest building, the Willis Tower.

The Congress CIDESCO Section USA hosted the opening ceremony and invited a line-up of excellent international speakers to address delegates over the next two days on the latest technologies and trend-setting topics.

The closing ceremony of the congress on the second day of lectures included the handing over of the Flag to the next host country, Bali, Indonesia, where the 2020 event will take place.

Lydia Sarfati hosted the 2019 congress with the CIDESCO Section USA team and it was a truly memorable event. PB

Issue 29

Oct/Nov 2019

Bare facts

Nail anatomy recap

COMPETITIVE EDGE All our winners

THE ART OF TACT Dealing with know-it-all clients

Nail Design Competition Welcome

50

T

Tel: 011 675

6518, Fax:

086 588 0973

, Postal addr ess: Postnet

Suite 236,

Private Bag X1,

Cresta

he news section of this issue of NailFile is almost entirely devoted to the results of competitions – the Annual NailFile Showcase Nail Competition (Tip Box & Photographic); the 2019 Live Professional Beauty Competition; and the NailFile Photographic ‘Mardi Gras’ Nail Design Challenge. What better way to for nail techs to hone and improve their skills than by competing, however nerve-racking it may be? We received lots of entries for each of the above competitions, which is really encouraging, as the more techs that take part, the better for the industry as a whole.

And nothing beats the thrill of actually placing in a competition.

We have a very informative article in this issue that focuses on new facts that have emerged about nail anatomy. The facts have kindly been provided by internationally renowned scientific researcher, author and educator, Doug Schoon.

Issue 29

Oct/Nov 201 9

Bare facts Nail anato my

recap

COMPETI

All our wi TIVE EDGE nners

THE ART OF

TACT Dealing wi know-it-al th l clients

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

WHAT’S INSIDE

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Stay in the know

When nails prevail

Salon Focus

Environment

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Ask the Experts

Health

Product Hub

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Style Savvy

Top Tech Talk

News

Dealing with know-it-all clients

55 Step by Step

Water colour effect with gel online @ probeauty.co.za

Exposé: new nail anatomy facts

Baubles, bangles & beads

Green practices in the salon

The latest launches

Joeleini Nel

51 News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips Kruger and Brill triumph in Showcase competition

NailFile’s Annual Showcase Nail Design Competition generated a wonderful batch of entries, with Leandre Kruger triumphing in the ‘Aquaman’ Tip Box Category, and Maureen Brill winning the ‘Mary Poppins Returns’ Photographic Category.

Tip Box Leandre Kruger’s tip box entry was a superbly crafted, amazingly detailed and intricate creation that really delved into the many facets of the ‘Aquaman’ adventure. One of the elements was an aquarium of fish suspended in gel.

Says Kruger: “Watching ‘Aquaman’ multiple times led to my theme, ‘Journey to the Trident’. I based my nails around creating the journey that Arthur Curry follows in his search for the original Trident of Atlan, so that he can become the human-born heir to the underwater Kingdom of Atlantis. My design focused on a few of the scenes that Arthur

traveled through – such as the lighthouse in Main, the Aquarium and the uncharted sea.”

In second place was Carol Leonard, whose impressive entry revolved around a striking, orange octopus.

Tess Tullues came third, with a wonderful depiction of the sea dragon in the movie, scales and all.

Photographic Winner of the Photographic category, Maureen Brill’s beautiful set of nails showed many elements from ‘Mary Poppins Returns’, including a 3D Big Ben Clock.

Brill comments: “I was so inspired by this amazing theme.

While watching the movie, I got excited to the core. So many amazing ideas came to me, almost too many. After countless nights of dreaming about this set, I felt obliged by a higher power to enter the competition. Glory to God for sending me creativity.”

Melissa De Wet came second with her striking set of extremely long stiletto nails, which included a 3D depiction of the magical

vase that transports Mary and the Banks children on a magical journey.

Third place was awarded to Deveraux-May Combrink, who created lovely paintings of Mary, Jack the lamp lighter, and the children on the bicycle.

The NailFile Showcase Competition was sponsored by: online @ probeauty.co.za

News

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Simply the best...

The Annual PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY NAIL COMPETITION, held on 1 September at Gallagher Convention Centre, saw droves of top nail techs from around the country ply their considerable skills against each other.

Competitors pulled out all the stops to produce a high standard of work.

Here are the results in each category: Multi Media Fantasy – ‘Lion King’ (sponsored by ITEC; Gelous/ Envy Me) 1st – Andrea Smith 2nd – Cindy Visagie 3rd – Nadia Erasmus

Tip Overlay Student/ Novice Combined Tip Overlay (sponsored by ITEC; Slowianka) 1st – Hans von Francois Praeg 2nd Lorraine Nozithelo Siwela 3rd – Mercy Mkandla

Custom Colour Enhancements – ‘Magical Mosaics’ (sponsored

by ITEC; Light Elegance) 1st – Avianca Jansen Van Vuuren

Liquid & Powder Tip Overlay (sponsored by ITEC; Crystal Nails) 1st – Portia Nokukhanya

Gel Polish Creations – Pantone 2019 ‘Living Coral’ (sponsored

by ITEC; Indigo) 1st Place – Juanita Bester 2nd Place – Nadia Fraser 3rd Place – Nadia Erasmus

Gel Tip Overlay (sponsored

by ITEC; Calgel) 1st – Amanda Stonehouse 2nd – Richelle De Waal 3rd – Almarie Visser

Classic Gel Polish – French & Red (sponsored by ITEC; Jessica GELeration) 1st – Joeleini Nel 2nd – Candice Abbot 3rd – Nonhlanhla Regina Biggins

Sculpting Liquid & Powder (sponsored by ITEC; Image Cartel) 1st Joeleini Nel 2nd – Louise Heyns

The Official Judges were: Evelyn Janse Van Vuuren (Competition Director); Sonette Van Rensburg; Tracey Owgan; Yvette Nel; Melanie Kromer; Dmiele Steyl; Tania Oliver; and Jo-D Stroh.

Floor marshalls were: Larna van Rooyen and Karin Bower. online @ probeauty.co.za

Sculpting Gel (sponsored

by ITEC; Bio Sculpture) 1st – Franzelle de Villiers 2nd – Marijke de Meyer 3rd – Sarie Puth Masters Extreme Structures, Shapes & Lengths Sculpting Challenge (sponsored by ITEC; Tracey Lee; Professional Beauty) 1st Place – Ilse Visser 2nd Place – Maureen Brill 3rd Place – Mariaan Cripps Professional Beauty thanks its main competition sponsors as well as all the prize sponsors.

light elegance® W E ’ V E G O T G R E AT C H E M I S T R Y

Polish nail brand comes to SA Launched at the recent Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, Slowianka Nail Trends was ‘fantastically well received’, according to distributor Mike Labuschagne.

“Slowianka in Polish means training and products, which underscores the brand’s emphasis

on training. Our head trainer is the founder of the brand, the multiple award-winning nail stylist, Natalia Larina.

“Being a European based product, Slowianka meets the stringent EU regulatory requirements. As we all know, the Russians and Polish are market

leaders in nail design and art.

The Slowianka brand is used widely within Poland and eight European countries.”

As of January 2020, Slowianka South Africa will launch its Nail Academy, with all courses to be hosted by international trainers and award-winning nail stylists.

Andrea Smith wins ‘Mardi Gras’ competition

The NailFile Photographic ‘Mardi Gras’ Nail Design Challenge generated a large and very creative response, with Andrea Smith scoring top marks.

Desiree Todd placed second, with Melanie Kromer third.

Says competition director, Sonette van Rensburg, who initiated the NailFile Photographic Nail Design Challenges to encourage nail techs to continually tap into their creativity: “We awarded Andrea Smith first place for her beautifully presented entry, which included an incredibly detailed step by step describing the creative process and inspiration for each and every nail. Andrea’s set of nails incorporated a

fantastic variety and combination of different techniques and elements, set on magnificently crafted enhancements.

“Desiree Todd came second for her extremely unique and inclusive interpretation, which clearly showed that she had done lots of research into all elements of the New Orleans Mardi Gras. She had several diverse components of this event represented on her nails.

“In third place, Melanie Kromer created a beautiful set of nails that really reflected the theme. Her step by step was very detailed.”

Sponsor

online @ probeauty.co.za

News

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Business Tips

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ask

the EXPERTS

QUESTION: How do you handle ‘know-it-all’ clients who are always instructing you what to do?

LEE CASTRO We are living in an information age where our clients have access to videos and articles that will cause them to raise questions about treatments that come from a well-informed place. Clients are researching on the internet and social media all the time before they come to us for treatments.

So, how do we handle clients that tell us what to do?

1. First things first; as industry professionals it is imperative that we stay up to date with the latest trends and new product launches to ensure we are one step ahead of our clients.

2. Prepare your staff and set up training sessions to practise dealing with difficult clients.

3. Have the right mental attitude with each and every client that walks into your salon.

4. Pick your battles and decide if it’s worth it.

5. Your body language should show customers that you are open to what they have to say, so be careful with the non-verbal cues that you give off. online @ probeauty.co.za

6. Hear the customer out and make them feel that they are taken seriously. Listen to what they have to say. For example, if you have a difficult nail client then give her the file to get the perfect shape for herself. Even though it is skew it is straight in her eyes.

7. Keep your sense of humour.

8. Being tactful and discreet is crucial when dealing with difficult customers.

Remember, other people are watching, and some may even whip out their smart phones to record the conflict. The last thing you want is for the incident to hit social media.

9. Present your ideas in a nonthreatening way and without being arrogant.

10. When put in this situation, the outcome is totally dependent on your confidence level. If you come across as insecure in any way the client will always have the upper hand.

11. If you are really unfamiliar with what she is talking about, then confidently reassure her that you will find out. Be clear on what you can and can’t do.

12. Act quickly and resolve the matter swiftly to avoid further confrontation.

If you are confident in who you are and what you are doing, when put in a situation like this it will not cause you to be insecure but to rise in success.

At the end of the day, the client is paying you for a service and must be happy when she leaves.

We need to remain professional at all times.

Lea Castro is the CEO of Looking Good LCN and operates from LCN head office situated in Pretoria East, Gauteng.

Water colour EFFECT WITH GEL

This pretty nail design was created by LILIAN LEE. To create this look, Lilian Lee used the following products from the Zsa Zsa Nails (for Professionals) brand. GEL POLISH: L001 (White), L015 (Dark purple), L012 (Green). 2D PAINTING GEL: A002 (White).

TOP GEL: Matte Top Gel (MTN01), No Wipe Top Gel (TN01) and Titanium Top Gel (Very thick Wipe Top Gel). BRUSH: 12mm Art Brush

STEP

1 3 5 7

Load some purple and clear top gel on a palette. Mix them together to form a translucent, light purple colour gel.

Outline the flower centre with the purple gel (not mixed with clear), then blend to background.

Cure for 1 minute.

Use a dark purple gel to enhance the definitions of petal veins, then cure.

Apply matte top gel and cure.

2 4 6 8

Use an art brush to draw five petals by using the light translucent purple gel on the white colour background.

Then cure for 1 minute.

Further enhance the petals with the purple gel.

Use a dark green gel to draw the flower stem, then use white colour gel to outline the flower petals.

Cure for 1 minute.

Make small water drops by using very thick top gel, then cure. Then wipe off the tacky layer to finish.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Step by Step

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Business SalonTrends Focus

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nails WHEN

P R E VA I L

JOANNA STERKOWICZ speaks to WILMA RYAN about creating a thriving nail business in the middle of her aesthetics clinic in the East Rand.

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he Needleless To Say brand is synonymous with aesthetic treatments.

Wilma Ryan opened her first Needleless to Say clinic in Pretoria in 2014, followed by another branch in Edenvale in January last year.

“We are an aesthetic clinic that specialises in all different types of skin and body concerns, but we also cater for the day-to-day standard beauty treatments,” explains Ryan. “These include waxing, massages, facials and then, of course, nails that are out of this world.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Nail art is very popular at the clinic.

Even the clients who never liked nail art will now do some minimal nail art. We love creating something special and unique that suits each client’s style and personality.

Needleless To Say has a diversity of clients, each with their own love for art, but generally speaking, I would say that at the moment, ombre and 3D are quite popular with our clients

“In addition, we have a clinic sister who does health and weight loss injections, as well as a doctor that administers anti-ageing botulinum toxins and dermal fillers. Thus, we are a one-stop-shop for all beauty and aesthetic treatments. We have also recently launched N2S Nutrition, where we are selling all the latest health and wellness products.”

Nails generate about 40% of the business in terms of the amount of treatments performed. Ryan notes that she has a particular passion for the nail industry and has always loved a set of nails that is extraordinary.

In terms of building up a new client base at the Edenvale branch when she first opened, Ryan offered a 50% discount for the first visit, as she was confident of clients returning.

“We knew that with what we have to offer on both the aesthetic and nails side, that it

would only take one visit to make clients want to return to us,” she adds. “Some of our clients come in for nail services only, as they are more focused on their hands and feet than their skin.”

“Nail art is very popular at the clinic. Even the clients who never liked nail art will now do some minimal nail art. We love creating something special and unique that suits each client’s style and personality. Needleless To Say has a diversity of clients, each with their own love for art, but generally speaking, I would say that at the moment, ombre and 3D are quite popular with our clients,” she explains.

Something for everyone In terms of décor and design, Ryan opted for a clinical look that is predominantly white in colour to reflect the aesthetic side. “However, we wanted it to be welcoming and creative, so we added a touch of red.

We love celebrating clients’ special occasions in life, such as birthdays and supporting them in tough times.

“We offer all nail services – sculpturing, tips, gel polish, gel, acrylic, etc. I would say our most popular treatment is acrylic sculptures and tips. The clinic has two nail stations and two pedicure recliner chairs.

Business SalonTrends Focus

57

Meiring (nail artist and skin specialist), each of whom have 10 years of experience, have been working with these brands for years and we believe in using high end quality products for our clients. Desiree is phenomenal and one of a kind.

She has an absolute passion for nails and for her clients. She loves a good challenge when it comes to nail art. Desiree has competed in the Professional Beauty Nail Competitions,” she comments.

Extra mile Ryan believes in going the extra mile for all of her clients.

This extends from the time they are making the appointment, to the reminder of their appointment, to a warm welcome with a coffee and biscuit on arrival, to the follow up and sharing of their special time with the clinic afterwards.

“We love celebrating clients’ special occasions in life, such as birthdays and supporting them in tough times. Our clients are more like family to us than clients,” concludes Ryan.

In terms of brands used in salon and offered for retail, Ryan opted for Bio Sculplture and B Unique for hand treatments, with Bio Sculpture and Medi Heel for foot treatments.

“My nail artists, Desiree Todd (head nail artist) and Anja

online @ probeauty.co.za

Health

58

Exposé: new nail anatomy facts

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG reports on new information and facts about nail anatomy that were recently released by DOUG SCHOON, the internationally known scientist, researcher, author and educator.

D

oug Schoon provides factbased information based on his many years of research.

Delegates at the recent Professional Beauty Nail Workshop in Johannesburg were exposed to his latest facts regarding nail anatomy, in a video presentation.

As times change, so to do nail products, techniques and even information. You’re probably wondering how much could possibly change about nail anatomy, as surely it is what it is and the same as we have already learnt. Surprise, surprise! Doug Schoon proves that there’s more to learn. His illuminating article follows below.

Doug Schoon writes…

The internet is filled with confusing and competing misinformation about nail anatomy. I’ve been on a multiyear, challenging quest to determine all the facts. Many doctors and scientists are also confused by the various ‘schools of thought’. I’ve worked with many world-class medical experts and internationally known nail educators, in addition to reviewing dozens of scientific reports.

It is agreed that the proximal nail fold (PNF) is the entire flap of skin covering the matrix, extending from the edge of the

online @ probeauty.co.za

visible nail plate to the first joint of the finger. However, there is continuing disagreement about the eponychium. I’ve researched all sides of this debate to clear up confusion.

Eponychium literally means ‘upon the nail’. The eponychium is the underside portion of the proximal nail fold that covers the new growth of nail plate and creates the cuticle.

Strangely, in some medical literature, another type of tissue is also identified as eponychium, which creates confusion.

The eponychium is a thin section of tissue found on the bottom side of the proximal nail fold. It is surprisingly thin – approximately 0.1-0.15 mm thick (0.004-006 inches – and consists of only one layer of the stem cells. It extends from the nail matrix to the front edge of the proximal nail fold. The nail matrix also contains stem cells, which make the nail plate.

Cuticle tissue There is only one type of cuticle tissue – the thin, colorless layer of dead tissue that adheres to the nail plate.

This tissue comes from the eponychium. The cuticle becomes strongly adhered to the nail plate while it is still located underneath the proximal nail fold. The cuticle then pulls away and continues to ride on the upper surface of the nail plate as it grows outward. Researchers believe this thin layer contains specialised stem cells, which are factory-like cells designed to work 24/7, continually creating cuticle tissue. The cuticle tissue comes from the underside of the proximal nail fold (see diagram – ‘Stem Cells in the Eponychium Layer’).

Another interesting part of the proximal nail fold is the area where this living tissue meets the nail plate (see diagram).

Unfortunately, many still confuse this area with the cuticle. It is NOT. The outer layer of the proximal nail fold is covered with tissue called stratum corneum; the area where this skin meets the nail plate has a different appearance because its surface has become keratinised. In other words, just the outer layers located at, or near the surface, undergo a process that causes the ‘surface cells’ to produce more keratin.

This keratinisation process hardens the PNF (proximal nail fold) surface and gives it a slightly different appearance.

This hardening surface layer creates a protective shield that can resist attack by infectious organisms or potentially harmful chemicals. The keratinized PNF remains a relatively thin surface layer, until the PNF is chemically attacked, physically abraded/ cut or injured. Then the surface layer becomes thicker and harder to build up

greater protection against any further abuse or injury. The PNF hardened surface skin is NOT the cuticle tissue.

The cuticle is softer and much stickier, having superior nail plate adhesion. The cuticle and the keratinised PNF surface layer are made by different types of tissues that are found in different locations. These tissues serve different functions: the cuticle forms an important seal between the PNF and nail plate, while the keratinised proximal nail fold surface layer helps provide extra protection to the ‘front edge’ of the PNF. In short, the eponychium is a thin layer containing stem cells that lines the bottom of the proximal nail fold. And, proximal nail fold is the correct name for the flap of skin that covers both the nail matrix and nail plate.

The cuticle tissue is created by the stem cells located within the eponychium (underside of the PNF). Also note, the nail plate sits on top of the nail bed, so it is an error to say that nail polish is applied to the nail bed, instead it is applied to the plate.

Important barrier The cuticle tissue is an important barrier (seal) between the PNF and nail plate, which helps keep bacteria out of the nail matrix area. An infection in the matrix area could lead to permanently damaged nail plates and/or bone infections, which could lead to the loss of a finger or toe. Carefully removing a loose tag of dead skin is acceptable, as long as the living skin is not torn or damaged further by the removal process. Nail technicians should not intentionally abrade or cut intact skin from around the nail plate. Some believe that since its ‘keratinised’, it must be dead and not harmful to cut but that is incorrect! Whether living or dead isn’t the issue.

Cutting or abrading can cause skin infections or allergies.

The underlying tissue contains microscopic capillaries which are often broken when the PNF tissue is cut, or when abraded by an e-file. Infectious organisms can now gain access, entering the skin though this damaged tissues. Also, allergic reactions to artificial nail products are much more likely when repeatedly exposed to damaged, cut or abraded skin.

Want to learn more?

You can get much more information from my three-part book series, ‘Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon’, Vol. 1-3, available on Amazon, iTunes, Kobo and Nook.

Doug Schoon is a leading scientific researcher specialising in the Science of Keratin; including Nails, Hair and Eye Lashes.

You can learn more about him at www.SchoonScientific. com. Follow him on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/ doug.schoon Instagram: doug_schoon online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Trends Health

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Style Savvy

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Baubles, bangles

&beads Even the most nail art-shy of clients might be tempted to indulge during the Festive Season and opt for pretty and fun Christmas-themed nail designs to highlight their fingertips.

T

here is a vast array of Christmas symbols for nail techs to draw from, such as Father Christmas hats and jackets, snowflakes, snowmen, reindeers, sleighs, mistletoe, gift-wrapped boxes, Christmas trees and ornaments, string Christmas lights, ‘Merry Christmas’ logos, striped candy canes, bells, bows, gimmicky Christmas sweaters (think Mark Darcy in ‘Bridget Jones Diary’)…the list goes on.

These can be incorporated into all manner of nail designs, such as French, alternative French, ombre, lattice work, glitter, etc.

In addition to the traditional Christmas hues of white, red and green, there are also always the stand-by gold and silver shades, as well a treasure trove of sparkly embellishments to add some glitz and festive cheer to nails during the holidays.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Product Environment Trends News

61

Green practices in the salon More and more clients are starting to seek treatments that are safer, healthier and more environmentally friendly, writes TANIA BIDDLE.

T

echnicians should take the time to properly research their brand of choice to ensure that the product is in fact safer, healthier and environmentally friendly.

Below are a few simple steps one could take when trying to select the right products: • Firstly, check the ingredients label. Make sure the products do not contain any harsh additives.

• Make use of products that are animal cruelty free. Many product lines offer vegan based products, meaning the product does not contain any animal ingredients or animal-derived ingredients, nor is it tested on animals. This does not only apply to the product itself, but also to equipment used, such as product application brushes.

Do your part by ensuring that you purchase synthetic tipped brushes.

• Make recycling part of your daily activities. Select products that are smartly packaged in biodegradable or environmentally friendly containers such as glass or selected plastics. This information can also be found on the product label.

• Energy saving: ensure your salon lighting, as well as equipment that contains globes such as nails lamps, are equipped with energy saving bulbs. When purchasing new equipment, you can also select products based on their energy ratings. Another way to improve on this is to make use of as much natural lighting as possible.

• Repurpose old or empty product containers. Most beauty products are packaged in opulent packaging which is a pity to throw away. Upcycle old or empty containers by storing things in them such as cut-up nail wipes, or even nail art samples.

• Fresh air! Use dust extractor fans or air purifiers in your salon to ensure the environment is dust free and hygienically clean.

If possible, allow in as much natural air as you can by opening doors and windows in the work place.

• Ergonomics…wait what? By definition, ergonomics is the process of designing or arranging a work place, space, products and systems to make the environment safer. There are two parts to this step:

the first part is to focus on the environment itself, making sure all electrical cords, walkways, chairs, tables, products etc. are smartly positioned to ensure a streamlined work flow and to limit the risk of potential injury around these items.

The second part to this step is to focus on the people. A well ergonomically designed piece of furniture such as a chair will assist with things like better posture, ultimately leading to more comfort both in the short and long term.

• Lastly, preach what you practice.

Create awareness by putting up signs, posters and email banner adds which promote environmentally friendly practices. The signs do not have to be big or overbearing, just subtle hints.

Tania Biddle is the owner of Plush Nails & Beauty in Roodepoort and the head of international education for Bio Sculpture.

online @ probeauty.co.za

62 Business In the Market Trends

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails

All-in-one LCN’s Anti Aging Fiber NailTech combines bonding and sculpting in a single product for youthful looking nails. The product stabilies natural nails, with slight sculpting. Key ingredients include vitamin A-complex, hyaluronic acid, collagen and fiberglass particles.

010 593 3293

Paint your masterpiece Artistic Nail Design’s Paint My Passion Summer 2019 collection features vibrant spring tones and pops of bright crème for the season. Shades include: Guy Meets Gal-lery (royal purple crème); Don’t Hate, Create! (bright turquoise crème); Picas-So Pink (hot pink crème); A Muse Of My Own (light coral crème); and Abstract Beauty (iridescent overlay glitter).

011 305 1600

All about that base From Bio Sculpture, Ethos OxyCoat is a nourishing base coat with antioxidant properties. It protects natural healthy nails and may assist with regeneration of nails cells, while botanicals revitalise the nails to keep them healthy. For moist nails, use OxyCoat as a base coat and a top coat, to achieve a ‘breathable’ overlay.

0861 246 435 online @ probeauty.co.za

Sky’s the limit From Gelish and Morgan Taylor, the Rocketman Collection features seven iconic shades, from ultra-bright pinks to rich purples and teals. The bright summer shades are complemented by Bedazzle Me, a luxe glitter overlay.

Rocketman is available in matching Morgan Taylor Lacquer, Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish and Gelish Dip formulas.

011 447 0659/3

Top Tech Talk NailFile talks to 17-year-old nail tech, Joeleini Nel, about winning competitions and establishing herself in a very competitive industry at such a young age.

How did you cope with competition nerves?

To be completely honest, I can control my nerves well and tend to do my best work when under pressure.

Why do you think that it’s important for nail techs to take part in competitions?

You won both the Classic Gel Polish and Sculpting Liquid & Powder categories at the recent Annual Professional Beauty Nail Competition.

How did it feel to have won?

It felt so rewarding. I’d been working hard on my time management and skills to be able to win this competition. So, when they called my name, it felt like butterflies in my stomach; it felt as though everything I worked for finally paid off. Winning a competition gives you such a boost in confidence, and the faith that you can excel in the nail industry. This was my first ever competition and I enjoyed every moment.

As nail technicians in South Africa we are part of a very fast-growing industry. For this reason, there are salons on every corner. But of course this does not mean that they are all at the same standard.

As a newly qualified nail tech, you have so many challenges that you face when it comes to building clientele, figuring out appropriate pricing, setting up a salon, etc. But you need to make each aspect work. I personally have been in

the industry for over three and a half years and believe I have worked hard to be get to where I am now and to have come so far in such a short space of time. By competing in these competitions, you not only make this fact obvious to your existing and potential clients, but you also make a stand in the industry itself.

You attract the attention of other nail technicians, brand owners, previous competition winners, etc. and become known. In a very polite way, you now become a potential threat to them. But it’s good to create competition within your industry. How else do you grow? I’ve learnt that our industry is much more than what one could ever imagine and that it holds so much opportunity. >

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Trends Q&A

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Business Trends Q&A

64 What is your customer service policy?

My customer service policy consists mainly of exceeding my clients’ expectations, as well as making an impact on women’s lives in a positive way, making them feel special and better than they did when they first walked into my salon.

What professional nail brand do you use in your salon?

Astonishing Nails, distributed

by The Image Cartel.

I believe that you were the youngest qualified nail tech at Magnetic Nail Academy?

I qualified when I was 13 years old with a pass rate in the high 90s in each category of testing. Today I own a thriving salon based in Boksburg called Nail Legacy.

What first sparked your interest in nails?

It all started with my gran, who was a hairdresser for over 40 years. She was my best friend and when she passed, it really was a devastating moment in my life. I knew early on that I wanted to follow in her footsteps, not necessarily in hair though as I was more on the artistic side, having done nails as a hobby since age 10. When my gran passed, it triggered my interest in nails even more, as I felt it was a way for me to make her proud and connect with her indirectly. So, studying nail technology became a huge interest at age 12.

There is lots of lovely nail art on your Facebook page – do most of your clients request nail art?

Yes, most want nail art of some sort as I do encourage nails that are different from your average sets.

The majority of my clients leave it up to me to be creative with their nails.

Very few come in with specific nail art references, but if they do, I give it my best shot.

Is there a particular style of nail art that you most enjoy doing?

My favourite style of nails is extending by sculpting. I love doing stilettos or Russian almond extensions. My most requested art is 3D bows or flowers.

What is the most challenging nail art that you’ve ever done?

It was definitely 3D roses and mastering this challenging technique.

Are you the only nail tech in your salon?

Do many your clients request nail art on toes?

Currently yes, as I specialise in nails. I do have another therapist specialising in other categories of beauty who assists me.

A lot of people are self-conscious about their toes, so I’d say about 50% of my clients ask for nail art on their toes.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Given that you have already achieved so much in your career, what are you ambitions for the future?

That’s a difficult question to answer as I have so many goals and ambitions.

However, my next short-term goal is to finish my educators’ qualifications within the next month.

Once that is completed, hopefully I’ll be able to travel and get more and more involved in the nail industry. I want to teach and compete more as well, as hopefully one day I will be able to establish my own nail brand.