Professional Beauty SA - Oct 2020 by Professional Beauty SA

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

NAILFILE

BOOSTER EFFECT Tips to generate revenue

SPEAK WITH ZEAL

The power of positive language

October 2020 | probeauty.co.za

SAVING FACE

How to treat maskne

In this issue... Regulars

Interview

8 Industry news

22 Talking to…Cherie Ten Hope

Local and international news

36 Crowning glory What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

42 In the market

CEO of Dermalogica SA

Features 32 Behind the mask Dermatologist’s perspective on maskne

All the latest launches

Business

33 Facing up to maskne

14 Ask the Experts

38 How to achieve ROI on multiplatform devices

All your questions answered

18 Comparing Curves - COVID vs sustainability Dealing with PPE waste

20 How to increase your profit in six easy steps Revenue generating tips

What products to use

Investing in future profit

Aesthetic Medicine 40 Collagen banking

Subtle enhancements

26 The power of positive language in business

Nails

43 NailFile

How the words you use affect others

Issue 36

Spa Focus 29 Insights from overseas spas on reopening Top spa professionals share experiences

20 online @ probeauty.co.za

Welcome

very Spring, people talk about rebirth and reawakening and somehow everything suddenly seems more cheerful, as we enjoy the warmer weather and anticipate summer. Having emerged from one of the darkest, most difficult and depressing winters this country has ever known (courtesy of the COVID-19 pandemic), it’s wonderful to hear that many salons are experiencing an upswing in business (albeit small in some cases), as our lead news story reveals. Those courageous salons who survived the devastating effects of a national lockdown that dragged on for three agonising months, are to be congratulated for their perseverance and business acumen. Here’s wishing them a veritable boom in business over the summer months and beyond. When we sent out our editorial brief to skincare suppliers calling for submissions for our special feature on treating maskne (i.e. acne issues related to the wearing of face masks), we were literally flooded with emails. This is clearly an indication of how rampant a problem maskne is, and how universal. Even if you don’t have particularly sensitive skin, the constant necessity of having a cloth or synthetic covering over your skin and preventing it from breathing normally, will inevitably have a negative impact on the complexion. Luckily, as our feature reveals, there is a plethora of professional products available to treat this troublesome condition.

Joanna Sterkowicz: Editor

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

NAILFILE

BOOSTER EFFECT Tips to generate revenue

SPEAK WITH ZEAL

The power of positive language

SAVING FACE

Publisher Mark Moloney

011 781 5970

mark@probeauty.co.za

Managing Director Yolanda Knott

011 781 5970

yolanda@probeauty.co.za

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

phil@probeauty.co.za

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 011 781 5970

joanna@probeauty.co.za

Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970

stacey@tetradeevents.com

Operations Executive Obey Dube 011 781 5970

obey@probeauty.co.za

Cape Town Sales Executive Carla Hamman 084 894 6172 carla@probeauty.co.za Accountant Letitia Rabie

011 781 5970

accounts@tetradeevents.com

How to treat maskne

October 2020 | probeauty.co.za

Cover source: Photo by Marcelo Dias from Pexels Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com and www.pixabay.com

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Salons report seasonal upswing in business The Spring season has brought with it an encouraging increase in business for many salons, following a slow post lockdown recovery period. Says Jared Hines of Hines & Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge in Johannesburg: “I have definitely seen an upswing in treatments. As of September, we are at about 85% of our pre lockdown levels. I do think that during October we will get back to normal. “We have seen an increase in new clients, as well as more clients booking massages, facials and pedicures, much more so than before. So definitely the relaxation and pamper treatments are picking up. I think people are realising the benefits of these types of treatments more.” Corli Schoeman of Alchemy Skin & Body in Graaff Reinet concurs that business has definitely picked up since Spring. She continues: “We just closed off September month-end and had a 20% growth compared to 2019. While a lot of our business is still retail oriented, we’ve seen a wonderful, positive incline in therapy treatments and the forecast for October is already much better than that of September, as there’s more movement in town. “While we were previously negatively affected by the schools situation in that moms had to keep their children at home and so couldn’t come for beauty treatments, several moms have decided to send their kids back to school and are returning to the salon. I am positive about the final quarter of this unprecedented 2020.” Bev Courtney of Grace Skin and Wellness in Sandton, adds: “Business has actually been wonderful recently. But the boom has been rather strange in that it’s not been from existing clients, but rather from new clients.” An upmarket salon in online @ probeauty.co.za

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News

Johannesburg’s northern suburbs that does not wish to be named reports that every month since reopening is getting ‘a bit better’, with clients rebooking as per normal. Although retail sales and overall business are down from the same time last year, the salon has a positive outlook for the summer months.

Franchises Esna Colyn, CEO of the Imbalie Group (comprising Placecol Skin Care Clinics, Perfect 10 and Dream Nails), has definitely seen an uptick in trade. “Retail is still outperforming services. Our salons in the smaller towns are doing exceptionally well, like Lephalale and Emalahleni. We’re experiencing much higher trading volumes during weekdays, as a result of people working flexi-hours or from home,” she comments. The Sorbet Group is delighted with the upturn in its business. Says Sorbet CEO, Linda Sinclair: “Many of our guests have been eager to come back to our stores and indulge in some of their favourite treatments that they were unable to enjoy over the initial lockdown period. We attribute this positive trend to the

stringent hygiene protocols and safe social distancing measures that we have put in place, and the trust and loyalty that guests have for our brand.”

Record retail figures For the first time since 1980, The Beauty Clinic in East London has achieved retail sales that far outweigh treatment sales. Says Pieter Olivier, who co-owns the salon with Gwen Pietersma: “The reason for this is that our therapists were working only two or three days a week, so they had to retail a lot to make up their income. Our lead therapist generated massive sales figures with one of our skincare brands, which had just brought in a new serum priced at R3,000. “Regarding treatment services, we did notice a definite uptick at the end of August, but then business dropped a bit in September. At the moment our overall turnover is down 50% from the same time last year. It certainly hasn’t been easy to survive in this pandemic climate. We’ve managed to get by and now hope for the better.” Olivier and Pietersma have diversified by opening a shop inside the salon, selling small, affordable items which bear the Beauty Clinic branding.

Professional Beauty to host live event in November 2020 The Professional Beauty Buyers Forum & Conference will take place on 1 and 2 November 2020 at Gallagher Convention Centre, with all COVID-19 safety protocols and social distancing regulations in place. Not only will this exciting networking event be jam-packed with informative seminars presented by top speakers in all things beauty, nails, spa and medical aesthetics, there will also be a table top sales forum, where delegates will be able to interact with top brands. The event comprises the Medical Aesthetics Conference, which takes place on 1 November, while the Professional Beauty Conference will run on 2 November. Says Phil Woods, commercial director of Professional Beauty SA: ‘The COVID-19 pandemic lockdown prohibited us from holding our annual trade shows in Durban and Cape Town, as well as our flagship Johannesburg event in September. After months of hosting free online industry seminars, it’s now time for us to connect with industry stakeholders in person. “Obviously, safety is a primary concern, so all delegates, speakers and exhibitors will be required to wear a face mask. Social distancing is strictly controlled at Gallagher Convention Centre, which has 60 automatic hand sanitsers. We will register each and every single attendee. Visiting this event will be safer than visiting a shopping mall as all delegates details are recorded just as if visiting a salon or spa.” A nominal fee of R550 per day will be charged per delegate for access to the seminars and the Buyers Forum, as well for

lunch and refreshments. Due to social distancing regulations, numbers are limited. Avoid disappointment and book your seat by clicking here https://www.probeauty.co.za/ online-store

Environ wins international accolade The South Africanfounded skincare brand, Environ, has won the Top Medical Skin Care category in the Aesthetic Everything® Aesthetic and Cosmetic Medicine Awards 2020. Voting was held online, with all votes counted to obtain the list of winners. On capturing the winning votes for the Top Medical Skin Care category, Carol and Rob Trow of Environ’s exclusive USA distributor, DermaConcepts, said: “Environ is honored to have won this award. We, along with Environ founders, Dr Des Fernandes and Val Carstens, as well as our R&D department and our extraordinary USA team, are proud of the recognition as the most efficacious products for the appearance of more youthful, healthy-looking and beautiful skin.” In the same competition, DermaConcepts was also awarded Top Education and Training Team, Top Education Program, with Carol Trow recognised as Top Woman President. Environ has received over 100 other recognitions for outstanding products worldwide.

News

1,123 venues celebrated World Wellness Weekend The 4th annual World Wellness Weekend (WWW) took place on 19 and 20 September and saw 1,123 venues around the globe celebrate the event by offering free on-site or online activities to promote healthy lifestyles. Says WWW founder, JeanGuy de Gabriac of Tip Touch International: “Despite all the hardships and challenges resulting from the COVID-19 pandemic, my heart was overjoyed to see so many people and properties participate in WWW. I truly believe it’s a necessary endeavour to support the flame of our industry. The world needs wellness now more than ever. “From sunirise in Fiji (with Pure Fiji) until sunset in Hawaii (with the Hawaii Spa Association), in 543 cities (109 countries), ’social distancing’ was replaced by ‘social wellness’, making WWW the longest and largest event of the year that promotes healthy

A WWW welfie from The Spa at The Oyster Box living. “Local regulations were followed to keep everyone safe and active, smiling behind masks at a respectful 6-feet distance.” WWW South Africa ambassador and spa professional, Taryn Lilley, coordinated many activities hosted by local properties. These included Saxon Spa, Ellerman House Spa, NShape Pilates, Forever Strong

Studio, Tiger Athletic Fitness, Caopeira Valente and Babor, among others. To see the WWW 2020 video compilation click here https://www.facebook.com/ WorldWellnessWeekend/ videos/674958183431328 The 5th World Wellness Weekend will take place on 18-19 September 2021.

First doctor takes up residence at Beauté Pacifique Africa Institute Danish medical skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique, has announced the honourary membership of Dr Herman van Rooyen to the Beauté Pacifique Africa Institute for Aesthetic Science. Says Beauté Pacifique Africa’s Wayne La Grange: “Dr Van Rooyen is the first professional in Africa to be invited to take residence at the Institute, which will form part of the facilitation of aesthetics knowledge transfer internationally. He has extensive experience with

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sports injuries, burns, neuro-rehabilitation and aesthetic medicine. “Additionally, Dr Van Dr Herman van Rooyen (in white shirt) with Wayne La Rooyen is registered Grange and the Skinlogic team with the American Sports Medicine Association “Dr van Rooyen is an and General Medical Council. He internationally acclaimed aesthetic has worked for almost a decade practitioner and is often asked to as a senior maritime physician speak at aesthetic conventions, as for Carnival UK, managing well as conduct medical aesthetics medical, cosmetic dermatology training, while still practicing out and emergency care centres of his medical aesthetic centre in worldwide. George Western Cape – Skinlogic.”

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News

New moves at Derca

Derca Cosmetics has appointed Leana Robson as product educator and marketing manager. Says Robson: â&#x20AC;&#x153;I have a passion to train and educate people and am excited to further build the Derca brand, which has over 20 proudly South African products focusing on the body and skin. These centre on removing acne breakouts and pimples, increasing the healing and recovery process, while improving scarring and pigmentation and promoting healthy skin.â&#x20AC;? Derca founder, Lurinda Swanepoel, is now based in Canada.

Online searches for eczema and acne decrease during lockdown

Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels

Online searches for eczema, acne and redness decreased during coronavirus lockdown, as these skin conditions became less of a concern for consumers during this time. This is according to a report from digital health and beauty company, Revieve, which noted that from March to April, consumer searches for rosacea as a skin concern skyrocketed 111%, followed closely by conditions eczema (102%), redness (96%) and acne (87%). As per the report, in July, identifications of these conditions as top skincare issues dropped, showing that four months indoors away from environmental aggressors such as the sun, pollution and grime could have had a positive impact on clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skin. Searches for eczema decreased 37% in June, 22% in July and then another 20% in August, while interest in redness dropped 39% in June, 14% in July and a further 3% in August, the Revieve data discovered. But it is believed that spots and acne will once again shoot up again as a key concern as maskne (aka mask-induced acne) becomes more common.

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Business Tips

ask Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

What questions should I ask when interviewing a new team member for my salon? The purpose of an interview is to exchange information between the employer and potential employee who will fit into the company’s culture – or perhaps even bring about a welcome change of framework. Salient points for any interview process are to establish the ideal employee’s skills, personality and if they will be an asset to your salon (or new business). Start with a detailed job description to determine your expectations and requirements of the vacancy you wish to fill, enabling applicants who meet the desired criteria to apply for your consideration. You must do a practical assessment of the interviewee’s skills and abilities, but also a behaviour-based interview is suggested focused on experiences, behaviour, skills and abilities, giving a prediction of the candidate’s abilities, behaviour and performance in the future. Here are five behaviour-based interview questions 1. Are you a team player? Can you give an example of your past achievements in a team? online @ probeauty.co.za

When onboarding a new person into an existing team, the above questions will assess how the interviewee will get along with others, their confidence working with colleagues, and their dynamics within a salon environment. Will they get along and how will that impact their day to day service delivery?

2. What is your ultimate career goal and where do you see yourself in the next five years? The interviewee’s feedback offers insight into their intentions and forecasting of their (and ultimately your salon) goals. Is your salon just a stepping-stone or short term solution for their own goal, or would you benefit from their drive and future plans long-term? 3. What training will you require to perform as a top-performing therapist? Acknowledging their weaknesses or flaws offers you the insight into how much training would possibly be required to enable them to perform confidently and professionally. Training and development would incur costs for

the salon. Does this fit into your salon’s budget forecast?

4. Describe a time when you went above and beyond of what was expected of you? The interviewee is given the opportunity to prove if they are an average worker or potentially a top performer. This indicates their ability to learn from praise and influence.

5. Please describe a time when you had to deal with a client complaint. How did you handle the situation what was the outcome? Client satisfaction is an integral part of the salon environment. An interviewee’s ability to manage conflict and offer solutions is key. Take note of their body language when describing an incident, the manner in which they speak, and their solution offered. Miranda Forrester is the founder and executive recruiter of MF Spa & Beauty Placements offering niche recruitment, HR-related assistance, training & consultancy to salons and spas across Africa and abroad. Email recruitment@mfsbp.co.za

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Business Tips

What are synbiotics and what role do they play in the health of the skin and body? The microbes in our gut and in the rest of our body produce signaling molecules that help our immune system respond appropriately to food, pathogens and toxins. We provide food and shelter for them and these little critters return the favour. They give us access to nutrients that they produce. One example would be when we eat blueberries or cranberries, which contain polyphenols with molecules too big to go through the intestinal lining. Our commensal bacteria or healthy bacteria feed on them and use them as a growth medium. The good bacteria grab the fibre in the berries and turn them into short chain fatty acids (SCFA) like butyrate, acetate, propionate etc. Our intestinal cells then use these fats for energy. The biggest source of energy in the intestinal lining comes from these fats. SCFAs have a massive antiinflammatory effect. If we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t eat these plant fibres then our commensal bacteria cannot produce energy and we walk around with gut permeability/ leaky gut. We might end up with skin inflammation and conditions such as acne or atopic dermatitis. Furthermore, SCFAs enhance our immune system by interacting with our DNA. This leads to an

increase in T cell production, reduction of inflammation and improvements in detoxification. For instance, Bacillus and Lactobacilli strains appear to play a critical role in the following: breaking down nutrients; helping to improve cognitive function (memory); fighting anxiety and helping in weight loss management. Butyric acid supports regularity and reduces the sign of both IBS (Irritable Bowel Syndrome) and IBD (Inflammatory Bowel Disease). Some of the most common prebiotic fibers include galactooligosaccharides (GOS) and fructo-oligosaccharides (FOS). GOS are preferentially consumed by Bifidobacteria and Lactobacilli. When these bacteria ferment GOS, they create fermentation endproducts that result in altering the gut pH, which brings improvement of immunomodulating ability. Synbiotic skincare products are based on these sugars or plant oils that are able to provide nutrition for bacteria on the skin surface in the form of sprays or creams. In skincare formulation, a synergestic blend of synbiotics mediate skin inflammation, treat atopic dermatitis and prevent allergic contact dermatitis. Probiotics are shown to decolonise and treat skin pathogens (e.g., P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, A. Vulgaris, etc.).

We should aim to eat a balanced diet loaded with probiotic foods, prebiotic foods, gut-healing spices and microbiome-balancing herbs. The synbiotic, put together by the prebiotic fibers from carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, radishes, onions, garlic and fruit, such as berries, will help us keep our gut microbiome assorted, rich and more ideal. One idea would be stir-fry made with asparagus for a gut-healthy meal that packs both probiotics and prebiotics. A side note on supplementation - we do need more comprehensive research on synbiotics for both skincare and supplementation. There is a lack of regulation in terms of guaranteeing that a product we buy is actually synbiotic and effective. Make sure you do your homework well when it comes to buying supplements. Consider sticking to a Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium probiotic supplement such as Florafood, and eat probiotic-rich foods in addition to prebiotic foods.

Researcher, lecturer and founder of Health & Hope Nutrition Centre, Madaleine Helm is dedicated and passionate about improving the health and wellbeing of individuals. Email info2healthandhope@gmail.com

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Business Trends

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Business Trends

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Business Tips

Comparing curves –

COVID vs

Sustainability Sustainability expert, Charne le Roux of GreenSpa.Africa, provides valuable tips on how to reduce PPE waste in your salon or spa Our initial perception that the strict COVID-19 lockdown measures allowed nature to sigh with relief was well placed. Bird and insect life returned to previously uninhabited areas, while the smog clouds over the big cities lifted and then disappeared altogether. Living nature seemed invigorated, seemingly as a result of less human impact due to lockdown. The specific environmental improvements brought about by the forced economic shutdown could be found in: • Better air quality with the reduction both of factory

emissions and air and road travel • Cleaner beaches • Less noise • Cleaner waterways in areas where boat traffic decreased (especially in cities like Venice and Stockholm) But, as the the graph below shows, this initial declining impact on the environment suddenly reversed its course and started ascending rapidly, to the extent that it has now overtaken the COVID infection curve. WHY? A substantial increase in PPE (Personal Protection Equipment) waste PLUS

A substantial increase in domestic waste PLUS A reduction in waste recycling 500% This is one of the alarming statistics associated with PPE

Stated quantitatively, 89 million masks and 76 million pairs of gloves are used and discarded globally each month, according to an estimate from the World Health Organisation. waste (which includes spent hand sanitisers and cleaning products) following the implementation of COVID health measures. Stated quantitatively, 89 million masks and 76 million pairs of gloves are used and discarded globally each month, according Photo by Karolina Grabowska from Pexels

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Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels

Business Tips

to an estimate from the World Health Organisation. And many have already landed on remote beaches, in rivers and on landfills. The increase in domestic waste is directly attributable to a rising demand for online shopping and take-away foods, which require additional, instantly obsolete packaging. Certain FMCG retailers and coffee shops which pre-COVID accepted plastic bags and coffee cups from customers for refill (towards conservation efforts) stopped doing so subsequent to the lockdown announcement. The fact that the recycling industry, including the important work of informal waste reclaimers, ground to a halt during lockdown, is the last leg in this eco triple whammy.

Collateral damage That is not where it ends however. Collateral environmental damage caused by lockdown includes an increase in deforestation to make provision for the rising demand for packaging, together with an increase in illegal poaching in many marginal settings as a reaction to economic hardship occasioned by stagnant trade. Do we need further reminding of the contamination to soil, rivers and the ocean caused by plastic breakdown, or marine species negatively affected by discarded plastics? Despite a fourth increase in the plastic bag levy since 2003, no

Do we need further reminding of the contamination to soil, rivers and the ocean caused by plastic breakdown, or marine species negatively affected by discarded plastics? discernible behavioural change has yet taken place.

Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels

What to do As providers of wellbeing products and services and being conscious of their important role in giving effect to an ethical business ethos, spas and salons are increasingly asking how they can minimise their PPE waste impact. • Use re-usable PPE. They are just as safe as disposables if proper sanitising practices are followed. • Purchase eco-friendly sanitisers free of nano-plastics. These tiny

plastic particles are often found in hygiene and sanitation products and are what give these products their gel-like texture. Plastic has been found everywhere on earth – in the deepest parts of oceans, in the tissues of small organisms that form the basis of our food supply chain, in the fish that we eat and now with nano-plastics, even in the air that we breathe. • Use refillable containers for hand sanitisers. • Use bio-degradable containers for hand sanitisers. • Buy sanitising chemicals in bulk and in returnable containers. • Dispose of used and contaminated PPE safely, as you would with any other hazardous waste.

Charne le Roux is a leading sustainability expert in the wellness industry and the founder of GreenSpa. Africa. She was a senior partner in the law firm Adams & Adams, heading the firm’s sustainability initiative as an accredited professional of the Green Building Council. Le Roux developed the first dedicated organic spa in South Africa, is the author of the Green Spa Guide and developed a sustainability audit tool for spas and salons, the Green Spa Calculator

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Business Tips

How to

increase your pro

in six e

Beauty business expert, Liz McKeon, provides valuable tips on how to maximise your revenue generation Profit is a very important concept for any beauty business, being the financial return or reward that salon and spa owners / entrepreneurs aim to achieve to reflect the risk that they take. Given that most entrepreneurs invest in order to make a return, the profit earned by a business can be used to measure the success of that investment. Profit is also an important signal to other service providers of finance to a business. For example, banks, suppliers, leasing companies and other lenders are more likely to provide finance to a business that can demonstrate that it makes a profit (or is very likely to do so in the near future)

and that it can pay debts if they fall due. Furthermore, profit is also an important source of finance for a business. Profits earned that are kept in the business are known as retained profit. Therefore, retained profits are an important source of finance for any business, especially for a start-up or small business. The moment the product or service is sold for more than its cost of product, then profit is earned and can be reinvested.

Formula Profit can be measured and calculated using the following formula: PROFIT = TOTAL SALES

â&#x20AC;&#x201C; TOTAL COSTS. Remember the phrase, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Turnover is sanity, profit is vanity!â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Step 1

Precise and correct pricing attracts the right buyers who are willing to pay for quality. Use the best resources. You cannot afford waste with a small company and this rule applies to both resources and employees. Before buying equipment or supplies, consider the direct and

easy steps

process of determining what a company will receive in exchange for its product or service. The following should be factored into your pricing – manufacturing cost, market place, competition, and market conditions, as well as the brand and quality of product. An efficient price list should: (a) Achieve the financial goals of the business (profitability) (b) Fit the realities of your market – will the clients buy at that

sales = salon failure. Stay focused on your sales objectives, ensuring that every team member understands that being a financial asset to the salon business is the number one priority.

Step 6 Common pitfalls to avoid on your road to profitability:

Stay focused on your sales objectives, ensuring that every team member understands that being a financial asset to the salon business is the number one priority.

Image by Steve Buissinne from Pixabay

price? (c) Support the product’s market position Evaluate your pricing strategies to enhance profits and make your business more profitable. Never undersell your services. Precise and correct pricing attracts the right buyers who are willing to pay for quality.

Step 4

indirect impact the investment has on your bottom line. Do not employ anybody without knowing the potential return on investment for the salon.

Step 2 The key to maximising profit potential in a small business is to always look for efficiency gains. This means closely examining every aspect of the business. You will be amazed at what savings can be made. Look for ways to save on costs. For example, you could reduce banking fees, or switch to light efficiency bulbs, or bring laundry in-house.

Step 3 Pricing strategy: pricing is the

Increase revenue. The basic principle to optimising your profits lies in your ability to increase your revenue at a higher ratio than your costs. In the short term, you need to generate the maximum value from each client and upsell them additional services and products to gain more business. By focusing on your customer experience, it will lead to word of mouth referrals and repeat business. It’s much cheaper to keep a loyal client that to secure a new one.

Step 5 Use monthly, weekly, daily and hourly sales goals. The hard facts of salon business life are that sales affect every waking moment of your day. Basically, high sales = salon success, and low

Image by Michal Jarmoluk from Pixabay

• Failing to invest in an effective sales training programme for your team – teach your team and the sky is the limit. • Not asking for the sale – if a client doesn’t ask to buy – then you need to ask for the sale. • Failing to adapt selling style to the style of the buyer – remember that people buy from people. • Trying to oversell to the client – there is no need to do this, as clients don’t want to be sold to, but they do want to buy. • Failing to prepare to achieve daily sales targets. Being prepared will give you the knowledge and confidence to tackle each sale in a more professional and detailed manner. Fail to prepare and prepare to fail.

Liz McKeon is an author, business coach, trainer & mentor, specialising in salon turnaround. Email liz@lizmckeon.com

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Business Tips

e ofit

Interview

Talking toâ&#x20AC;Ś Cherie Ten Hope Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to CHERIE TEN HOPE about resuming her former position as CEO of Dermalogica SA after an absence of three years and what the future holds for the company.

Why did you decide to return to Dermalogica SA as CEO?

How is Dermalogica SA managing to weather the COVID-19 storm?

I had been out of the business for three years as the chairperson and given all the challenges with regards to the COVID-19 pandemic, we took the decision that it was the right time for me to return.

Firstly, we have an amazing team of people who are willing to weather the storm with us. This is both our global and our local team. Secondly, we have focused

What is your vision for the company going forward?

Our vision remains to be the number one professional skin care brand and to lead with regards to the new normal.

Our vision remains to be the number one professional skin care brand and to lead with regards to the new normal, but to continue growing the impact skin therapists can have on communities through what they do. As we become higher tech, we need more high touch. Evolving and expanding the brand and staying relevant to the changing consumer is vital in making that vision a reality.

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on a strong ecommerce pivot, with additional investment in this regard. Furthermore, we have conducted in-depth reviews of

the business, restructured teams and reduced all unnecessary costs, double-hatting and working smarter wherever possible. We have amplified our affiliate partnership programme, which provides a commission to our stockists for all sales generated by sharing their affiliate link. In addition, we pivoted all training to online so we could continue to do what we do regardless of lockdown. Wherever possible we have provided payment plans and support to our clients to help them pay off debt, manage cash flow and trade out of the circumstances. We have invested more in value deals to ensure consumer engagement is as consistent as possible, and we have made marketing spend available for value deals to our clients. Also, we have fully leveraged our strong principle

relationships with regards to our agreements and terms etc. to help manage our cash flow.

How has Dermalogica SA made use of online platforms during the pandemic, such as the ‘mirror me’ virtual consultations for instance?

Yes, we lead the way for these. We started offering webinars presented by our global teams from the start of lockdown, which were open to the industry regardless of whether they were stocking our brand or not. For us this was about an adaption our industry needs to make and a change we will be seeing as part of our future going forward.

Are you still planning to only review prices next year?

Yes, unless any further devaluation of the rand takes place.

Dermalogica launched the first online clean touch certification during lockdown and made it available to the industry – have any non-Dermalogica industry stakeholders taken it up? Yes they have, in South Africa and across the globe. It created a level of confidence for consumers wanting to seek out professional skin advice.

How is business at the Dermalogica Concept Stores post lockdown?

Our treatments are picking up, in fact there is much demand, but we have managed this very carefully in order to minimise risk. The reality of stores being closed and staff quarantined when a positive case transpired is a big factor in wanting to avoid that as much as we can. We have encouraged the virtual treatments strongly until now. Now that the country is at Level 1 of the lockdown, we think we will see more treatments being booked. Our face mapping consultations have definitely picked up this last month, with consumers feeling more confident and safer.

I believe you have a 25 year history with Dermalogica SA? Yes, I joined at age 19 after qualifying as a professional skin therapist and aromatherapist/ reflexologist at Camelot international. I worked in a salon in Village Walk that was frequented by Lee Hardie, the previous owner of Dermalogica SA, and was contacted about a ‘sales position’ for her late husband, Andy Hardie, who owned Sporting House and distributed products to pharmacies. At the time, I was completely wet behind the ears and had no idea of what was about to unfold, or that this would land up being a journey that equates to half my life. I was the skivvy doing everything from pulling orders, to deliveries, collecting post office items etc.

Dermal Institute with the post graduate education was the big stand out. Before Dermalogica was even developed we were a training company globally for this industry, started by Jane Wurwand, a skin therapist herself. I loved that. I will never forget that day I met Lee Obrien (then Hardie) and Caroline Parker (then Stewart). They were so dynamic, they had amazing skin, they were so forward thinking and just overall impressive compared to everyone else we had exposure to at college. I knew they were a different tribe and something deep inside must have subconsciously resonated. They remain very close friends of mine to this day, as do many who have worked with us and our clients over the years. These connections are real and they are what keep

Before Dermalogica was even developed we were a training company globally for this industry, started by Jane Wurwand, a skin therapist herself. To begin with, I was the rep for Sporting House but then moved over to Dermalogica. As a start up, you have to double hat, so my role was sales, education and the deliveries / orders. I was involved in marketing launches etc. too. My passion for training grew and I headed up the growing team of educators for several years. I was made GM at 27 and then in 2017, became the CEO and a partner in the business when CAVI brands bought the business from Lee.

What attracted you to the Dermalogica brand at that time?

I was instantly drawn in by the training. It was just a different company to all the other brands we trained in and the International

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Interview

Interveiw

24 me here today.

Please comment on the concept of ‘The Dermalogica Tribe’.

the expected two- to threeyear contractual run-out type of arrangement, I have been so incredibly happy to see her role as our visionary and industry leader grow, not dissipate. Jane is incredibly active in her FITE (Financial Independence Through Education) ambassador role and does much to contribute via presentations and storytelling

We are all connected through what we do, our common passion for skin care, for caring for our clients and making a meaningful contribution through this. Connection is a basic human need, and we create this by default of what we do. We care about who is in the skin, not just the wrinkle or pigmentation on the skin. We create communities, not just businesses and this is why we are a tribe. We feel emotionally connected to what we do and to each other, no matter what language you hear Dermalogica in any part of the world. Skin care is like teaching, it’s a calling, not just a job or means to an end.

Connection is a basic human need, and we create this by default of what we do. We care about who is in the skin, not just the wrinkle or pigmentation on the skin.

Funnily enough, I was on a call with her last week and actually commented on how involved she remains. Despite selling the brand to Unilever in 2015, with

with regards to the Dermalogica journey to businesses and learning organisations the world over. A few years ago, she was recognised in person by President Barack Obama for the contribution Dermalogica has made to entrepreneurship in America. I think that says a lot. She seems to

Dermalogica founder, Jane Wurwand, has long been regarded as a visionary in the industry – how involved is she in the company at this stage?

have stepped into her best place in the current set up. I admire her so much and I am just always so blown away by her knowledge, her savviness and presence. She is an incredible person and a super fabulous mom and wife too. After every engagement with Jane, I always left feeling I wanted to be a better version of myself. That’s leadership.

What are the advantages of being part of a huge multinational like Unilever? At first, we were unsure of so much given we had been privately owned and run since inception. There were naturally concerns about how this affect the company and brand, but Unilever is a very well-run organisation. They have strong resources, as well as effective teams of very talented and bright people. Unilever has huge and audacious goals with regards to the environment and the planet, with strong leaders who have powerful commercial ability but with a big vision. Their understanding of consumer trends is exceptionally strong in that they have two centres called Pitch in New York and London, which are dedicated to consumer research.

Sonette Donker, Jane Wurwand, Cherie Ten Hope and Ilana Gush (circa 1998)

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Business Tips

The power of

positive

language in business

Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels

Marisa Dimitriadis of The Spa Professionals Guild reveals how the words you and your staff use when interacting with clients can either build the business or break it. If I said that you could increase your revenue by at least 30% going forward by focusing on using positive language in your business, how does sound? Would you welcome a 30% revenue boost? Well, it is very possible. Positive language is real and it works. Of course, a 30% revenue boost doesn’t just come with no effort. Just as learning to speak a new language has its challenges, so does this ‘new’ language of positivity. But the difference is that you will see the results in your revenue and staff morale. The words you use are powerful; they have the ability to make someone feel confident and happy, or make someone feel

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afraid and inadequate. Now, how is this relevant to your business? It’s very simple – the words that every single staff member uses when interacting with clients and each other have the ability to build or break the business.

Classic examples Let’s look at some classic examples and do a quick mind calculation if you have ever heard yourself, or a staff member, speak to a client in the following way.

someone else can help you.” 3. Client: “How are you keeping?” Therapist/ manager/ receptionist: “We are surviving thanks and how are you?” 4. Client: “Do you stock xxxxxx (specific name) brand?” Receptionist/ manager/ therapist: “No, we unfortunately

1. Client: “Can you fix a broken nail please?’” Therapist or receptionist: “Unfortunately, we don’t offer nail services in our spa.”

Just as learning to speak a new language has its challenges, so does this ‘new’ language of positivity

2. Client: “Would it be possible to please get a quick wax with my facial today? I forgot to book and I am desperate.” Therapist: “Unfortunately, I am fully booked, but let me see if

don’t.” 5. Client: “Why are you charging a COVID surcharge?” Therapist/ manager/ receptionist: “Unfortunately, we have to

6. Client: “I would like to change this product as it’s not working for me?” Therapist: “Oh no, what a pity. What would you like to exchange it for?” These are just six examples that I hear on a regular basis. But before we look at how to use ‘positive language’ with the same examples listed above, let’s first quickly think about how the words make someone feel. As per Psychcentral’s blog about how words change your brain, the words ‘unfortunately’, ‘don’t’, ‘no’, ‘can’t’ and ‘surviving’ (all used above) can increase the activity in our amygdala (i.e. the fear centre of the brain). As a result, dozens of stress-producing hormones and neurotransmitters are released which, in turn, interrupt the functioning of our brain. This is especially with regard to logic, reason and language. Basically the above words instantly put off any potential sale, or any possibility of building loyalty or rapport with the client.

Reworked responses So let’s now quickly look at the positive language alternatives in the exact same examples and take note of how you feel when you read the positive responses. 1. Client: “Can you fix a broken nail please?” NEGATIVE: “Unfortunately, we don’t offer nail services in our spa.” POSITIVE: “We will do our best to assist you. Whilst our spa doesn’t offer nail services, we do keep some nail glue for emergencies and will definitely find a temporary solution for you. Would you like us to do a quick buff and paint on all your nails and perhaps a lovely exfoliation on your hands?” 2. Client: “Would it be possible

Business Tips

try and recover some of the PPE expenses and we can’t put our prices up either.”

Image by Luisella Planeta from Pixabay

to please get a quick wax with my facial today, I forgot to book and I am desperate?” NEGATIVE: “Unfortunately, I am fully booked, but let me see if someone else can help you.” POSITIVE: “Of course yes. I am fortunately fully booked back to back, can I check which of my brilliant colleagues can help you?”

As per Psychcentral’s blog about how words change your brain, the words ‘unfortunately’, ‘don’t’, ‘no’, ‘can’t’ and ‘surviving’ can increase the activity in our amygdala (i.e. the fear centre of the brain).

3. Client: “How are you keeping?” NEGATIVE: “We are surviving thanks and how are you?” POSITIVE: “We are blessed with health and so happy to be working. How are you doing?” 4. Client: “Do you stock xxxxxx (specific name) brand?” NEGATIVE: “No, we unfortunately don’t.” POSITIVE: “We have a brand I

know you will love, please allow me to introduce you to technology that will blow you away.” 5. Client: “Why are you charging a COVID surcharge?” NEGATIVE: “Unfortunately we have to try and recover some of the PPE expenses and we can’t put our prices up either.” POSITIVE: “Instead of increasing our prices like some other service providers have done in order to absorb these essential PPE costs, we decided to rather ask for help from our lovely clients with an ‘optional’ COVID care surcharge.” 6. Client: “I would like to change this product as it’s not working for me?” NEGATIVE: “Oh no, what a pity. What would you like to exchange it for?” POSITIVE: “Wow, you are the first person to say that. I would love the opportunity to find out what is not working for you please. And of course we will happily exchange it for you.” In a nutshell, the positive language used in all these scenarios will lead to guaranteed revenue. There is no doubt of that at all.

Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder of The Spa Consultants and co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild, a training network for the industry. marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

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Interview

Insights

from overseas spas on reopening

Spa Focus

Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels

The Professional Beauty Group recently hosted the online World Spa & Wellness Convention, which featured a number of senior executives from leading spa and hotel brands sharing their experiences in the coronavirus pandemic climate Four Seasons is currently working on an approved list of virtual / low-touch treatments for all of its spas in the post COVID-19 lockdown environment. Said Sandie Johannessen, Four Seasons senior director of Spa, Asia Pacific: “This will include bio meditation, chakra balancing, reiki and treatments with the Hyperice Percussion Massage Tool. We may see more use of salt meditation pods, sound and light therapy, no-touch massage chairs and beds. “Four Seasons is looking at partnering with virtual group programmes delivering educational wellness online. These classes can be supplemented with in-room de-

livery of things like resistance bands, essential oils and crystal sets that are sanitised after each use. This way guests don’t physically have to come down into the gym if they’re uncomfortable. “I think that online classes for yoga and exercise, as well as wellness routines where people can access personal trainers, dietitians and doctor’s consultations, are here to stay.” Johannessen noted that the Four Seasons customer journey going forward will be centered on wellness. “For example, our Bangkok property focuses on the concept of balancing mind, body and work. Guests are invited to embark on a

unique journey of self-discovery, personal growth and self-awareness. “Using pathways of spirituality to access and open the mind, bespoke beauty treatments, massages to nurture the body and work in the form of functional fitness, we will connect the three streams together to bring positivity and new energy into each client’s life, and to introduce them to a new, better way of living.”

Alternate venues Jumeirah group spa director, Julanda Marais, reported that the company decided not to reopen its spas in Dubai yet due to restrictions,

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Spa Focus

rather opting for alternate venues that function as a spa. “We are using rooms at our Hotel Villas to recreate a spa treatment room for single and double treatments, and also using hotel rooms in some of our properties for the same purpose,” says Marais, a South African who was previously spa manager at Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff in Johannesburg. She continues: “For now, we are only accepting hotel guests so as to keep things more safe. Overall, we have had great feedback from guests in the sense that they feel safer, knowing that we are conscious of controlling the guest volume by only treating hotel guests in these operations. Also, guests feel comfortable and private, since the treatment room feels like a private suite with the added benefit of having full bathroom and changing facilities.” Jumeirah has introduced the ‘Gift of Time’ to make guests feel special by adding a complimentary 30-minute enhancement of choice onto any 60-minute treatment booked.

Changes to SOPs As to what procedures changed

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significantly post COVID-19 lockdown, Rocco Bova, GM of Chablé in Mexico, stated that it is principally the frequency of cleaning. He said: ‘Hotels have always followed strict procedures in their cleaning practices, but of course we now use more gloves and face masks. In

I think that online classes for yoga and exercise, as well as wellness routines where people can access personal trainers, dietitians and doctor’s consultations, are here to stay. terms of actual cleanliness, it’s only the frequency that’s changed just to ensure guests feel safe and comfortable.” Tara Moore, head of spa operations at Galgorm Spa & Golf Resort

added: “We’re currently working month to month and adjusting to the new world. What we have learned is that we need to be more agile than ever.” She has implemented high-tech cleaning products and equipment in her spa, including the Zoono™ Z-71 Microbe Shield Surface Sanitiser & Protectant that’s used on all high touch points, and Aerofog Generators containing Everbrite™Ultra Disinfectant to sanitise all other areas thoroughly. During hours of closure, the spa uses an Ozone™ OC1500 Air Purifier for further deep sanitation of all areas. Reena Sheeth, spa director of Jiva Spa, The Taj Mahal Mumbai, has appointed COVID Marshalls in her spa. “Their job is to maintain a checklist and ensure that it is adhered to.” A number of overseas spas have implemented a QR Code to download all spa menus, to avoid guests having to touch printed menus. Zoe Wall, group spa director for Asia at Anantara / MSpa has introduced a ‘Stay with peace of mind’ programme. She explained: “We

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created a Health & Safety committee, comprising of senior leadership and industry experts, to oversee the development and rollout of this new programme, which builds on existing health and safety regimens and focuses on reassuring guests. “While clients seem open to returning to spas, the biggest challenge we face is spending power. Clients are far more cautious when it comes to spending money on non-essentials, given the current economic situation and global pandemic of not only COVID-19, but the aftermath of redundancies, reduced salaries etc,” said Wall. Prior to reopening, Moore launched the ‘Your Safe Haven’ marketing campaign which proved very successful. “It demonstrates our Hygiene

I think that online classes for yoga and exercise, as well as wellness routines where people can access personal trainers, dietitians and doctor’s consultations, are here to stay. Commitment and we filmed the new guest journey that covers all aspects of the guest experience, from checkin, to housekeeping procedures, to social distancing measures in the spa and the measures introduced in our dining outlets.” Bova noted that prior to COVID-19, Chablé’s market share of Mexico (his domestic market) was about 50% and now it is 99%. “We are definitely marketing to our Mexican guests. The effort of contacting all of our local partners, organising webinars to explain what measures we have taken to ensure health & safety and inviting travel agents to visit us, is paying back. We are seeing many repeat guests from Mexico and have received a few requests for wellness retreats.”

Profitability ratios Commenting on how she is managing profitability ratios, Wall said: “Unfortunately, like most companies, it has meant redundancies and running operations on very lean manpower and offering limited low cost services in order to control costs. By no means is this ideal, but it is the only way our spa business will survive.” Emma McGrady, director of Crown Spas Crown Hotels Australia, manages spa staffing in all areas based on demand. “We are working this way until we eventually reopen seven days a week.” Group spa & wellness manager, Lux* Me, Lux* Le Morne, Mauritius, Kerensa Langitan, has put constraints on offerings and is creating offerings using what products are available. “At the moment, we have put a freeze on new orders of products and are doing flash sales of obsolete items. We are limiting the number of days and hours that the spa is open and have implemented optimum scheduling.” Managing costs is obviously a necessity for spas, particularly now with reduced clients due to social distancing and hygiene & cleansing protocols, according to Bova. He continued: “We have reduced the working hours of staff and have negotiated with suppliers to review charges and fees since April. Some 25% of our staff also work from home. Our spa menu remains the same but we have closed one section of the spa and made it into a mixed area. We also use a limited number of cabins to reduce energy costs. “As to looking ahead to the festive season, we’re living in a strange time so forecasting is basically impossible. Each day we have reservations coming in for the next day and sometimes for the same day. We expect to have mainly Mexican guests coming to ‘celebrate quietly’ during this year’s festive season. In terms of 2021, I’m not even trying yet to think long term but rather focusing on our national market for now.” Marais is finding it challenging to maintain healthy profitability ratios in the midst of a pandemic but is keep-

ing staff reduced at the moment, as well as operating conservatively with other expenses. “We know that while our spa services to hotel guests is an added amenity for now, or as some would say, ‘a non-essential luxury’, return bookings will grow and there will be an overall pick up in business. For any spas about to reopen, prepare for the fact that during the initial period after opening, profit will not be shown right away. It really is like a new opening and will take time to ramp up again,” explained Marais. She noted that her spa menus have been reduced by about 40%, as pre-COVID menus were too big and complex for the current circumstances. The Professional Beauty Group’s recent online World Spa & Wellness Convention was moderated by Jean-Guy de Gabriac of Tip Touch International.

Business Spa Trends Focus

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32 Maskne

over-cleanse your face as it can lead to more oil production, so a micellar water is a good option. 2. Avoid heavy makeup It’s best to avoid wearing heavy make-up, such as foundations and concealers, underneath the mask as this can lead to pores becoming blocked, which in turn causes acne. Keep your make-up light and use non-comedogenic products that won’t clog pores.

Behind the

Mask

With maskne now a universal problem in today’s pandemic era, we asked Dr Tarryn Jacobs of NoviSkin to provide the dermatologist perspective on how to approach this troublesome skin condition Since the outbreak of COVID-19, facial masks are now part of our daily wardrobe for the foreseeable future. As essential as they are to help slow the spread of the coronavirus, masks may also cause a host of potential skin problems. Masks can worsen skin conditions that already exist, or cause new ones. As a dermatologist, I am seeing an uptick in exacerbations of acne, rosacea and eczema.

What is maskne? Maskne is the latest term that refers not only to breakouts under the mask, but also the irritancy

and chafing that can happen due to the occlusion caused by a mask. Wearing a face mask, particularly for prolonged periods, creates humidity as your breathing is being trapped. This moist, hot environment is one in which bacteria can thrive and colonise the skin. In addition to this, masks trap oil, dirt and sweat close to the skin. Furthermore, the physical pressure and occlusion from the mask on the skin can lead to pores becoming blocked, which can also result in acne. This is a special type of acne called acne mechanica.

How to avoid it 1. Keep your skin clean After removing your mask for the day, I like to recommend using a micellar water to cleanse the built-up sweat, dirt and bacteria from your face. You don’t want to

3. Wash your mask This may seem obvious but if you are using a fabric mask, you need to keep it clean and remove bacteria, sweat and make-up that can potentially lead to acne. Ideally, you want to wash your mask daily, as you would your underwear.

Skin ingredients to look for Benzoyl peroxide: this is helpful to reduce inflammation, kill acnecausing bacteria and keep pores clear. It can be used either as a spot treatment or as a face wash. Salicylic acid: this is a beta hydroxy acid and dissolves the excess dirt, sebum and dead skin cells, all of which can build up in pores and lead to breakouts. Retinol: if you are experiencing more comedonal acne (i.e. blackheads and whiteheads), then using a topical retinol is the way to go as it increases cell turnover and decreases dead skin cell accumulation. I generally recommend starting retinol two to three times weekly by applying a pea-sized amount to the entire face and then titrating that as tolerated.

Dr Tarryn Jacobs is a Pretoria-based specialist dermatologist at NoviSkin. She completed her post-graduate degrees through the University of Pretoria, obtaining the Fellowship of the College of Dermatology as well as her Masters in Dermatology with Cum Laude. She was awarded the prestigious Peter Gordon-Smith medal for academic excellence in dermatology.

Facing up to maskne We asked some leading brands to reveal what they recommend for clients who are suffering from maskne, defined as acne related issues and skin irritation resulting from the mandatory wearing of facial masks. Environ True to Environ’s philosophy is that it’s essential to normalise the skin with vitamin A, as this improves the skin’s natural immunity and resilience. For a more ‘instant’ calming effect and for the relief of sensitivity, Environ suggests salon clients incorporate Colostrum Gel in their evening routine. This serum contains a high concentration of bovine colostrum and is enriched with vitamins and a variety of antioxidants, including green tea, vitamin C and vitamin E. For active breakouts, Environ recommends using Sebu-Wash as it cleans the skin without disturbing the barrier further. The Sebu-Clear Masque is ideal to incorporate two to three times per week to combat infected spots.

Babor Famous for its pioneering range of ampoules, Babor believes the Beauty Rescue Ampoule is ideal for treating maskne as it works on the skin’s own immunity, barrier function and moisture retention. “By spring-cleaning these three vital functions, inflammation will be reduced, the skin will be less sensitive, and the quality of the skin will be improved,” say

the Babor experts. “The result is that you will be less prone to breakout activity underneath the mask. “Another helpful tip is to avoid wearing your foundation on areas that are not exposed to fresh air while wearing your mask.”

Beauté Pacifique Beauté Pacifique board-certified dermatologists advocate the use of Beauté Pacifique Gentle Cleansing Foam, which is designed for all skin types. They say: “This is an excellent oilfree cleansing product that doesn’t irritate or dry out the skin. It clears clogged pores and leaves a smooth and radiant skin.” The dermatologists go on to recommend the Beauté Pacifique Oil Free Moisturiser, which is ideal for oily and combination skin due to its light texture that provides a matte surface. It is formulated with tocopheryl acetate (a type of vitamin E that plays an important role by protecting both the skin and protects against harmful free radicals), as well as aloe vera leaf juice powder, which acts as a natural humectant and is known for its soothing and healing properties. The moisturiser also contains hydrolysed collagen and hyaluronic acid to build an invisible shield of a moisturebinding barrier on the surface of the

skin. Finally, the X-TRA Dry Skin Fix is a super effective medical grade cream that helps to maintain a high level of moisture continuously throughout the day. It contains a potent concentration of natural squalene, leaving a deposit of cream inside the skin’s surface. When reactivated by contact with water, it locks in moisture to maintain constant hydration.

Dermalogica Dermalogica advises salons to educate and guide their clients to help them understand why maskne breakouts are persistent, to allow them to make better skincare choices. Say the Dermalogica team: “This form of acne is known as acne mechanica – caused by constant friction or pressure. This something we often see in athletes, gym or sports fanatics and chefs, as constantly rubbing of clothing, in addition to heat and increased sweating, all create an environment in the skin that leads to breakouts. The hot, humid environment and the friction of the mask leads to irritation and increased sebum production on the skin. It also changes the microclimate of the skin and in turn, the microbiome. “When you take mask breaks, use a Dermalogica toner to

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Maskne

34 refresh the skin all over, rebalance, hydrate and soothe. Instead of make-up, choose a mineral-based primer or tinted moisturiser, such as Dermalogica’s Skin Perfect Primer SPF 30. It has antioxidants and natural mineral oxides to provide a natural light cover, and it will not clog your pores.” Dermalogica also recommends the use of Active Clearing Serum (an acne-fighting serum that kills harmful bacteria and strengthens your skin’s own defences without damaging the good bacteria on your skin), as well as Age Bright Spot Fader, and Daily Microfoliant.

RégimA Two home care products from RégimA help prevent and treat maskne. Super Smoother Dual Hyaluronic Action is an anti-ageing light, cooling gel serum formulation that ideally adds a perfect balance of moisture required to feed the dermis and epidermis, but without any oily feel. It is particularly beneficial for all acne sufferers as it provides essential moisture, but without any greasiness. Formulated with red algae extract, tara tree extract and watermelon & lentil fruit complex, this product boasts a dual hyaluronic action, for advanced penetration into the skin. It is perfect for congested or problematic skin as it dries to a film, and is nonirritating under the mask. The abundance of plant ingredients found in RégimA’s Acne Attack Rescue Serum help control oil production, visibly reducing pore size and minimising the appearance of blackheads and spots for a more refined

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appearance. It helps attack the problems associated with an acne prone skin and dries quickly, leaving a smoother matte finish. Meadowsweet extract acts as a 5 alpha-reductase inhibitor. One of the main causes of acne is androgens, which are male hormones present in both men and women. By inhibiting this enzyme, one can reduce testosterone levels within the skin, importantly without affecting the hormones within the body.

DermaFix Cleansing of the skin is imperative to skin health, and should be done twice daily especially after removing your mask, helping to rid the skin of any debris, dirt, make-up and excess oils. So says Ursula Volbrecht of DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care. “If you are prone to acne breakouts, incorporate the MD Prescriptives Mandelic Cleanser for an anti-bacterial and skin clearing benefits. For more sensitive and barrier impaired skin types, DermaFix HydraSilk Cleanser may be used to help soothe inflammation, and calm skin irritation. “Allow all products to thoroughly settle and absorb into the skin before putting on your face mask and heading out. This will help minimise additional humidity whilst wearing your mask. DermaFix BB Primer, offering anti-bacterial, antiseptic, and anti-inflammatory properties whilst controlling the skins oil balance, is the perfect ally in protecting the skin as well as allowing for longevity from your make-up application.” For persistent breakouts, DermaFix Mattifying Pore Minimizer may be used as a spot treatment, while incorporating DermaFix Vitamin B Cream into your routine as your daily moisturiser will help balance oil production to clear

breakouts and strengthen skin resistance for an improved skin barrier. MD Prescriptives Acne Solutions may be considered as an alternative for severe acne concerns.

QMS Medicosmetics Wear a mask made from tightly woven cotton instead of synthetic fabric, advise the experts at QMS Medicosmetics, as such masks are more breathable and softer on the skin. “Then, apply a barrier cream or ointment to protect the skin. We recommend our QMS Redness Relief Complex, an advanced serum designed to help reduce redness, relieve skin irritation and restore the skin to its natural complexion. This product provides the specialised care needed to calm, strengthen and restore a natural even radiance to the skin. “We also suggest the use of our QMS EpiGen Pollution Rescue Mask, a luxurious overnight foam mask that can help restore and protect the skin’s appearance from pollution damage, promoting a revitalised look. It is formulated with epigenetic technologies and advanced active ingredients that protect the skin’s appearance from free radicals,” say the experts. To minimise the amount of make-up you client wears under her mask, a good option is the QMS Active Glow SPF 15 lightly tinted day moisturiser.

Viropure Hypochlorous acid (HOCL) is the key ingredient in two Viropure products – the HOCL Maskspray and the HOCL Antimicrobial Sanitiser. Both are safe and non-toxic for use to prevent and treat conditions, including maskne. HOCL is a substance naturally created by our white blood cells that acts as the body’s first line

of defence against bacteria, irritation and injury. It is essential to regulating the body’s inflammation process, is the key element for wound healing and is FDA approved. It can be left to dry on skin and surfaces and has the advantage of not leaving any toxic residues. Says Stephanie Teale, cofounder of Viropure (along with Leon Van Der Linde): “HOCL is becoming commonly used as a disinfectant/ antimicrobial of choice, because of its truly powerful action against bacteria, fungi and viruses and is one of the only cleaning agents available that’s non-toxic to humans, while still being lethal to most dangerous bacteria and viruses that threaten our health. “The antimicrobial effects of the HOCL in the Viropure products make them effective for fighting acne and skin infections. It is also anti-inflammatory, soothing, repairs damaged skin, speeds up wound healing and removes biofilm. Viropure is a great non-toxic option for acne sufferers, as well as those dealing with chronic inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema, rosacea and psoriasis.”

Thoclor Thoclor GF2 Skin Rejuvenation spray is a natural substance with a powerful antibacterial and antiinflammatory action. It contains hypochlorous acid (HOCL), which is the body’s own immune molecule used by the body to fight infection and heal wounds. It has powerful disinfectant properties that have been proven to be 80-100 times more effective against viruses than the bleach chlorine found in hand sanitisers. Recent laboratory studies have shown that GF2 completely eradicates the human coronavirus in less than two minutes. GF is successfully being used by doctors, health-care workers and patients.

In addition, the GF2 Rejuvenation spray has shown amazing results when used on acne-prone skin, as it destroys germs such as P.acne bacteria that causes acne. It reboots the skin’s normal function, normalising oil secretion and reducing the thickness of the dead cell layer on the skin’s surface that causes the blockage of the oil glands. This also calms down inflammation, redness and pain.

SIX SIX Skincare has put together two options for ‘Mascne’ Kits – one for teenagers and the other for adults, because skins differ. For adults, SIX recommends: Glycolic Acid

salicylic acid, azeloglycine, tea tree oil, glycerrhetinic acid and zinc that is delivered into the skin with the exclusive PH-DVC™ system. Also from pHformula, the C.C. cream SPF30+ provides broadspectrum sun protection, waterresistance (perfect for those hot flushes) and contains retinol and rice bran oil to regulate cell differentiation, stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis and provide antioxidant protection.

Fontis

8% Face Wash with chamomile and vitamin E to heal and relieve inflammation; 02 Serum with propolis extract to stimulate cell renewal and restore skin barrier function; and Self Heating Face Mask with detoxifying volcanic ash to draw out impurities, and myrrh to activate cellular functions. Then, for teenagers, SIX recommends: Salicylic Acid Teen Face Wash; O2 Serum; and Essential Everyday Moisturiser to cleanse, oxygenate and moisturise the skin on a daily basis.

Fontis Organic Skinfood’s oil to water Glow Oil Cleanser contains hydration and soothing ingredients that can be less irritating than conventional cleansers. Plus, it won’t leave the skin greasy and heavy. The brand’s skin calming, chamomile rich, Tranquility Nectar for Oily Skin contains antiinflammatory Kalahari melon, which is gentle to the skin as it helps to nourish and repair damage to cells. The rosehip oil in the formulation is known for cell regeneration and the treatment of blemishes. Fontis’ Revitalise Facial Treatment and Activator can do wonders for spot treatment as it contains mineral rich kaolin clay that draws out impurities and helps to prevent breakouts before they occur.

pHformula The A.C. recovery from pHformula, is a potent morning and evening treatment that contains a combination of multi-functional ingredients that works in synergy to speed-up skin recovery and maintaining the overall health of the skin. It contains niacinamide,

online @ probeauty.co.za

Maskne

Business Hair Trends News

Colour correction post lockdown At the recent Professional Beauty World online event, South African salon owner and stylist, Candice McKay, presented an in-depth tutorial on how to treat regrowth on post lockdown hair. Candice McKay, who is the founder/ owner of Wyatt Hairdressing & Barbering in Milpark, Johannesburg, said: “We all have similar kinds of clients now who have come in after lockdown with masses of regrowth and they want to change their hair. I’m going to explain how I worked on a client who had very typically grown

out roots from a full bleach, and turned the hair colour into a more natural look. “So, how do we phase our clients from a full bleach with massive regrowth into something that looks more natural? I first started by doing a global application of Davines Century of Light, Tolerance and Progress, mixed together with a 20 balm. After doing a virgin application, I did the roots. Everything was timed for a full 25 minutes. “From there, I did a really specific kind of toning technique, as the universal bleach leaves you with a very warm result and I wanted to tone it down to make the colour more natural. I divided up the hair into sections. First the hair line – about one to two fingers of space through the sides just to the tip of the ear on either side. And from the top point of the recession line, I did zig-zag sections through the back. The highest point of the zig-zags is online @ probeauty.co.za

what will give the colour depth. ” McKay used a mix of Davines Demi-Permanent colours in order to get a cool result, working at an 8-base to achieve ‘that beautiful German or Nordic looking blonde that is in between ash and natural’. She used 20 grams of 732, 20 grams of a 721 and 40 grams of developer. “I painted this mixture onto the hair in broad sections as the product distributes very evenly and easily,” she said. “What I love about this technique is that it allows me to do what looks like a far more complicated service in a very short amount of time, because while it is processing, I can do the balayage (i.e. free hand painting) through the top. So it limits the amount of time you have to spend with the client and also reduces the amount of time of potential exposure to the coronavirus. Some clients are still a little more hesitant to come into the salon, so this way they will feel far more comfortable. It is also great at this time to have a quick service that we can offer our clients with maximum efficiency. “We’ve all been under lockdown for quite a while so we need to come up with really smart, innovative ways to create interesting colours that aren’t going to take up a lot of time. I’ve noticed that some clients have been retrenched due to the pandemic, while others now have reduced incomes. So this technique is a great way to create a really beautiful colour effect that is

affordable.” To apply the Davines DemiPermanent colours, McKay moved the brush backwards and forwards over the sectioned strands of hair to get really good saturation, and also massaged it in with her fingers. To do the balayage treatment, she used Davines Liberty, which is a hand painting clay.

“While the toner will turn the hair into a natural ash, the balayage sections at the top with tone into a slightly warmer colour. The contrast between the two makes the whole head of hair incredibly natural looking,” noted McKay. To view Candice McKay’s full colour correction after lockdown tutorial go to https://www.youtube. com/watch?v=oGmfNi7Xc4o

Vitamin-based skincare

online @ probeauty.co.za

How to achieve on multiplatform devices

ROI With the demand for machine-based aesthetic treatments on the rise, more and more salons are looking into purchasing such equipment to meet the varied needs of their clients. When a beauty salon or aesthetic clinic purchases a multiplatform device, they are drastically increasing their treatment portfolio and revenue capability. A multiplatform unit allows a beauty business or aesthetic practice to offer a variety of different treatments, thus opening up multiple different revenue streams. In addition, a multiplatform device optimises space in the salon/ clinic. So says Melissa Eksteen, sales manager at Radiant Healthcare, distributor of the Nordlys by Candela. “In addition, you don’t need to take the unit fully loaded from the get go. You can start off with the most in demand treatment request/s first, and gradually add on more applicators. “By offering different treatments, your clinic will be one step ahead of your competition. Plus you will be a ‘one stop shop’ to clients, so they won’t need to go elsewhere. “I believe you should sell treatments in packages and make it worthwhile for the clients to book and pay upfront for treatments. If they are willing to pay upfront, you know they are committed to the journey.” Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers and Medilase adds: “Normally, a single technology device has a small variety of applicators, that usually treat a narrow range of online @ probeauty.co.za

indications. There are several instances where it would be a better choice to start with a more flexible platform. These include a small or new practice, limited office space, a practice that is seeking to grow or wanting to expand its treatment offering, or one that is still building a reputation. “Working with a multitechnology device gives the operators more experience in treating different skin conditions. By now the industry accepts the fact that combinations in treatments give better results. A multitechnology platform is the ideal investment to offer the operators the opportunity to give their clients the best possible treatment outcomes.”

Research The salon/ clinic owner should do thorough homework before purchasing a device. Eksteen continues: “The key is to ensure that the device is CE Medically Registered. It is also important to look at the history of the company and after sales service, as well as technical backup. Very important is to look at the running cost of the machines, the service cost and the replacement cost of pulses. “Remember that ROI on a multiplatform device is related to the entire running of the business, and not just to the investment part of the equipment, so salon owners as well as the therapists need to do their part. Owners must ensure they have a proper website, do continuous professional marketing on all social media platforms, and send out a monthly newsletter.

Photo by Ali Pazani from Pexels

Lasers and IPLs

Marketing plays a vital role in how quickly one can pay off a system. “One must also make sure that you have the right staff operating the device, therefore invest in good, qualified therapists who love

The key is to ensure that the device is CE Medically Registered. It is also important to look at the history of the company and after sales service, as well as technical backup. working with equipment.” Reputable suppliers will assist with open days to educate the clients about the new treatments on offer. When purchasing a device, ensure that proper training is provided by the supplier and that your salon/ clinic gets regular updated, clinical

refresher training, advises Eksteen. Olivier believes you should ask the following questions before purchasing a device: What is your goal when investing in a device? Do you want to focus on a specific treatment field? What is your budget for the equipment and how quickly are you looking for a payoff on your investment? How big is the demand for the services you plan to offer? How big is the demand for the services you plan to offer? What are the demographics of your practice?

Financing Previously, when it came to financing equipment, the two options were either paying cash or financing at the bank. Today, there are several finance houses available that offer rent-tobuy options without requiring a deposit, unlike banks that generally demand up to 20% deposit. Many reputable suppliers are affiliated with these institutions and can provide referrals. Tax advantages are also available.

procedures. States Eksteen: “The running cost of the Nordlys is extremely low and there are no hidden ownership costs. With the purchase of the Nordlys, the salon/ clinic will receive a 12-month licence and unlimited shots for that time at no cost. This will help the salon/ clinic to run very good specials in the first 12 months at no extra expense and to build up a good clientele. After the 12 months, they can purchase new credits. These prices are worked into the prices that they charge the clients. “The Nordlys is also supported by one of the best warrantee packages in the industry, as no applicators need to be replaced. When each applicator reaches a

treatment, age spot reduction, vascular and leg vein treatments, non-ablative skin treatments and more.

Viora V30

Nordlys Radiant Healthcare is the proud distributor of the Nordlys by Candela. Says Eksteen: “A fast ROI with the Nordlys is ensured not only by the wide range of treatments, but higher client turnover is also made possible by faster, more comfortable treatments from the applicators, with larger spot sizes.” The Nordlys system features three foundational technologies, namely IPL, Frax 1550 and the Nd:YAG 1064. With the SWT applicators (IPL), you can offer treatments for hair removal, telangiectasia, port wine stains, benign pigmented lesions, rosacea, poikiloderma of civatte, benign epidermal pigmented lesions and inflammatory acne vulgaris. Nd:YAG laser treats vessels, vascular lesions, venous lakes, port wine stains, onychomycosis and warts, while the FRAX 1550 technology is for coagulation of soft tissue and skin resurfacing

Lasers Business and Trends IPLs

certain amount of pulses, it is sent overseas for refurbishment, which is free of charge and brings the running cost to a minimum.”

Luxea Distributed by Hitech Lasers, Luxea by Deka, is an excellent choice, says Olivier, as a first device for a new practice. Luxea boasts various technologies on the 11 specially designed hand pieces that broaden the range of its capabilities. The device is indicated for a large variety of indications including skin rejuvenation, permanent hair reduction, acne

Available from Medilase, Viora’s V30 multitechnology platform represents a highly flexible solution for customers, providing the treatment of multiple applications within one device, as well as benefiting from Viora’s unique combination protocols. V30 includes the following: V-Laser Nd: YAG hand piece with long pulse 1064nm Nd: YAG for vascular lesions, nail fungi, skin rejuvenation; V-IPL handpiece for IPL hair removal, skin rejuvenation, pigmentation lesions, vascular lesions and acne clearance (the V-IPL hand piece has five interchangeable filters, ensuring complete treatment coverage for all skin types and conditions); V-ST hand piece for skin tightening; V-FR hand piece for fractional radio frequency resurfacing with SVC (Switching-Vacuum-Cooling), skin rejuvenation and acne scar clearance; and V-FORM hand piece for non-invasive body contouring and skin tightening of all body parts. online @ probeauty.co.za

Aesthetic Medicine

Collagen banking Aesthetic treatments come and go, with scientific, medical and technological advancements improving progress on a daily basis, writes Karen Ellithorne

o many consumers who have never actually experienced an aesthetic treatment, even mentioning the possibility that the results could be natural looking might seem like a complete contradiction. Images of overdone looking celebrities with trout pout lips and puffy skins immediately come to mind. There is much truth to be said about ageing gracefully. However, ultimately in reality we can only look like a good version of our age, or a bad version. This is no-matter how much aesthetic intervention we have engaged in. What most consumers are currently seeking is enhancement and not alteration. We would like our friends to still recognise us when they see us after a long period of time.

Injectables Consumers are all well aware of the wrinkle-reducing properties of injectables like botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid fillers. While this treatment has its place and instantaneously makes our wrinkles and fine lines disappear, it does not have any benefit on our underlying skin condition and health. However, it is important to mention that some of the newer fillers on the market have

online @ probeauty.co.za

evolved tremendously and do have additional collagen building ingredients. Botulinum toxin has many positives and certainly a place in aesthetics in that it can prevent hereditary expression lines from forming. There is, however, the risk that if your practitioner is not highly skilled and does not understand the facial muscles well, that you could possibly develop lines in other areas that would not normally form, or that you could end up looking expressionless.

Devices and treatments In my opinion, when it comes to skin rejuvenation, the natural look is far better achieved through the use of aesthetic devices and regular, high-quality aesthetic skin treatments.

What most consumers are currently seeking is enhancement and not alteration. These types of treatments help to keep the skin functioning adequately, boosting everything from collagen production to improving skin brightness. All while still having the ability to

Image by May Wesley from Pixabay

reduce pigmentation, red veins and inflammation. Below we take a look at just some of the available treatments and how they improve the functioning of the epidermis. Although I only have space to mention a few, there are many other products and devices in the South African market that can assist in keeping the skin’s ‘collagen bank’ full and prevent any reverse ageing.

Cosmelan and Dermamelan This treatment from Mesoestetic is an effective hyper-pigmentation management programme, consisting of both professional treatment and home care. The protocol will be tailored to your client’s skin condition by a professional skincare aesthetician or aesthetic doctor. Cosmelan and Dermamelan is used to treat hyperpigmentation, a very common skin disorder

41 especially with our outdoor lifestyles in South Africa. Hyperpigmentation presents itself in brown patches, often found on the hands and face, leaving the skin blotchy and uneven. It is caused by a genetic predisposition, hormonal influences (such as pregnancy, menopause and oral contraceptives) and exposure to the sun. The beauty of this treatment is that not only does it treat hyperpigmentation, but also has a wonderful rejuvenating effect on the entire application area. It is also beneficial in the following ways: compatible with all skin photo types; ideal for acne scaring; can be applied onto the face, décolleté, hands and body; and is minimally invasive. Cosmelan and Dermamelan contain the same active ingredients to treat hyperpigmentation, however Dermamelan is slightly stronger. Mesoestetic has also recently launched Dermamelan Intimate. The depigmented action is complemented with an anti-ageing function, making it a unique, all in one treatment for intimate rejuvenation. It is important to note that the maintenance period of a Cosmelan and Dermamelan treatment for a client to get the ultimate result is 12 months.

Elaine Brennan Peel This particular peel was formulated by an ex South African, Elaine Brennan, who ran a very successful clinic in Rosebank for many years. The company is currently being run by her daughter, who resides in the USA. The Elaine Brennan Peel is based on resorcinol and salicylic acid and helps to treat and lessen deep seated wrinkles, scarring, unseen blemished skin, acne, hyper pigmentation and many other skin conditions. This treatment can also be applied right under the eye and onto the

Image by Engin Akyurt from Pixabay

eyelids. Downtime is seven days, but it is perfectly safe to treat all photo types with no risk of rebound pigmentation. I have noticed that this particular treatment is very useful to offer to more mature clients, who are not necessarily interested in injectables, but just want to do something for themselves by rejuvenating their skin and feeling more confident.

BBL SkinTyte A BBL Photo facial is a corrective phototherapy treatment that uses broadband light (BBL) to target signs of ageing, sun damage and other skin conditions. This process will restore your skin to its natural beauty, making it clearer, smoother and more vibrant. SkinTyte BBL light therapy firms skin and can remove wrinkles and fine lines over time, rebuilding skin from the inside out for smoother, younger-looking skin. It can also be used to treat wrinkles, fine lines and sagging skin with no recovery or downtime.

Pre-treatment prep As aestheticians, we are all well aware of the importance and

advantages of preparing the skin prior to treatment. The better you prepare the skin in the six weeks leading up to the treatment, the lower the risk of inflammation and discomfort for the client. Prepare the client’s skin well with vitamin C and low level AHAs (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids) or retinol. These ingredients are to be used by the client as part of their homecare treatment. Then, most importantly, the application of an effective SPF before and after the treatment. More and more skin savvy patients have begun to recognise the benefits of investing in their skin’s ‘collagen bank’ for better quality, more natural looking skin. Non-invasive treatments such as those mentioned above enable the skin to remain naturally lifted and defined, with a much more natural looking jawline and brow.

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

Product News

In the market

Our round-up of new products and treatments Dazzling Duo DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care has launched two new products. The DermaFix HydroGel Collagen Masque, with collagen and damask rose flower, reinforces collagen and elastin, while DermaFix CBD Oil combines organically grown Swiss cannabis cannabidiol and hemp seed oil to provide gentle protection against free radical damage.

086 128 2323

Beautifully clean The Laser Beautique is proud to launch its very own BeauCleanse device. This multifunctional face cleansing machine is especially handy during a time when everyone is wearing face masks and experiencing different skin issues. The device gives the skin a deep cleanse.

076 895 2068

online @ probeauty.co.za

Back to life Created for sensitive and sensitised skin, the Esse Resurrect Serum harnesses the power of probiotics and biotechnology to provide highlevel hydration and anti-wrinkle effects. It takes its name from the Namibian Resurrection Plant, which has the unique ability to come back to life in a matter of hours, after it has been dried out.

033 212 3506

Exceeding expectations

Radiant Healthcare is proud to introduce the first dual-indicated, FDA and CE cleared, medical microneedling system â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Exceed by Candela. This standalone power unit for maximum efficiency was designed to prevent overheating of the hand piece. The power is persistent with up to 150-needle penetration per second.

011 794 8253

Issue 36

October 2020

SHORTCUT TO TROUBLE Dangers of cheat nail enhancements

CRINKLE CUT How to treat nail ridges Image by alexander-krivitskiy from pexels

AT FIRST HAND

Focus on hand creams

Issue 36

SHORTCU TO TROU T BLE Dangers of cheat nail enha ncements

CRINKLE C UT

How to tre nail ridge at s

AT FIRST HA ND ha

Focus on

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

nd cream

r-krivitsk iy from p

exels

October 202

alexande

n this issue of NailFile we run an article about a worrying trend – that of some nail techs offering enhancement services but not performing actual enhancements, opting rather to stick press on nails or full tips onto their clients’ nails instead. Not only will these nails not last as long as enhancements and cause possible damage to the natural nail, it’s also cheating the client. If a client is paying for enhancements, that is exactly what she should get. These sorts of shortcuts are ill advised and can ruin the reputation of both nail tech and salon. We also run in this issue an informative article about how to treat ridges on your client’s nails, a common condition. The article stresses the importance of understanding how and why ridges form on nails. The NailFile team greatly enjoyed being transported into the stellar and planetary world of the galaxies, through the dazzling entries we received for our Space Age Photographic Nail Design Challenge. Look out for the results on our news pages.

Image by

Welcome

What’s inside

46 45 Industry News

Stay in the know

47 50

Enhancements No shortcuts to nail enhancements

Step by Step

Ask the Experts

Treatments

How to treat nail ridges

Product Hub Latest releases

online @ probeauty.co.za

Lending a hand

Fruit & flowers

55 Top tech talk

Matthew Green

45 News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips

Instagram Stories central to marketing Stories had very significantly impacted how they approach brand activations. Top ways brands are leveraging Instagram Stories include sharing more Instagram Stories content on their owned channels, and encouraging influencers to share unsponsored Instagram Stories content

about their brand. For more information about this report go to https://www. tribedynamics.com/insights

Image by Kaufdex from Pixabay

Instagram Stories has become increasingly central to marketing strategies and influencer content over the past few years, according to a new report by tracking service, Tribe Dynamics. The report reveals that 78% of brands said Instagram Stories had very significantly impacted influencer content about their brand. Eighty-eight-percent of influencers regularly use Instagram Stories, and 63% of influencers have used Instagram Stories ‘much more frequently’ within the past year. Sixty-fivepercent of brands said Instagram

New SA gel polish launches Dalize Havenga of Exclusive Beauty Solutions has launched her very own range of gel polish, called Bellucy. As the official distributor for CND Shellac, Havenga told NailFile that she created Bellucy because the current South African economic climate requires products in different price ranges. “Bellucy is well priced and is a professional, quality brand that offers excellent wearability. CND, on the other hand, is an exclusive niche brand, being a hybrid polish and not a gel polish, which no other nail brand can compare to. “In addition, when I was thinking about the legacy of Exclusive Beauty Solutions, I had a vision to do something on my own and to give back to an industry that made me who I am today.” Havenga believes Bellucy stands out in the market as, compared to other quality

brands, it captures its audience on pricing. Other unique selling points are that Bellucy is not tested on animal products, does not contain animal products and is free from the following: formaldehyde, formaldehyde resin, dibutyl phthalate, toluene, camphor, xylene, ethyl tosylamide, parabens, acetone and triphenyl phosphate. She continues: “Bellucy is a South African brand, conceptualised and trademarked in this country. We have opted to have the range formulated and manufactured with a partner abroad, due to their experience in research and development of 11 years, supplying mainly to the European and American markets.” Bellucy has been in development for three years. “We have tested several product lines over the last few years in our local market, manufactured by both local and international companies, before finally deciding on the look, the feel, and the quality for my brand. The brand launches with 40 highly pigmented shades, with plans to

Dalize Havenga release three to four collections a year”, States Havenga. Commenting on the name, Bellucy, Havenga reveals that it was inspired by her daughter, who she refers to as Chanel Belle, and Lucy, her first born granddaughter. The Bellucy shades have been named after Exclusive Beauty Solutions staff members. Says Havenga: “Most of my staff have been with me for many years, I wanted to include my staff in this project to give them a sense of belonging and being part of the Exclusive Beauty Solutions family.” online @ probeauty.co.za

News

NEWS Cindy Visagie wins Space Age nail competition NailFile was delighted to receive so many ‘out of this world’ entries for its Space Age themed photographic nail design challenge, sponsored by Cherry Blossom Nails & Beauty. Cindy Visagie’s stunning entry was declared the winner by the judges, with Chantelle Ayres in second place and Ané Snyman coming third. Said the judges: “The work and effort that Cindy Visagie put into her set of nails and the way she incorporated so many different techniques is phenomenal. It’s a really fantastic set. Her presentation of the completed set of nails was great, as was her detailed step by step. Each nail was superb.” The judges also admired the effort that Chantelle Ayres put into her nails and step by step presentation. “Chantelle had a unique inspiration – she referenced a drawing by Yajia Art of an astronaut sitting on the moon, drinking a beer and looking at Earth. The way she designed the whole picture to amalgamate from each nail into the next to create an entire scene is just so beautifully and neatly done. There was layer

1st Pace - Cindy Visagie upon layer of work and so much technique in the background.” Ané Snyman’s entry was described by the judges as ‘vibrant and fun, with lots of clearly defined 3D elements’. They continued: “All of Ané’s nails are very neat and perfectly executed. The nails are full of character, with something different on every nail. Among other 3D elements, she had the sun, the planets, a rocket, NASA, a telescope and even an alien.”

2nd Place Chantelle Ayres

Thanks to our sponsor

3rd Place - Ané Snyman online @ probeauty.co.za

Ask the expert

ask

the experts QUESTION:

What causes ridges on my client’s nails and how do I treat them?

ANDREA SMITH This is a common concern and understanding the cause behind the ridges will help you give your client the best treatment and advice. Ridged nails is classified as a disorder, which means that we can recognise something is wrong with our client’s nail based on the change of the natural nail shape and condition. In this instance, we will notice the ridges visibly and sometimes they can be felt to the touch. These nails are normally thick and brittle. Ridges may appear on one to two nails, or even on all 10. They normally appear as lines going vertically or horizontally across the nail plate. Ridges appear either on top of or under the nail plate. If they appear on top of the nail plate, it means that the nails have thickened into creating the ridges, whereas ridges that appear under the nail plate are folds, which have been created by the nail bed or matrix. Possible causes of ridges can be trauma or health related causes, such as age-related changes, illness,

eczema, rheumatoid arthritis, thyroid problems and diabetes. Sometimes a perfectly healthy nail can have slight ridges, it don’t always mean there is a problem. So, what can we do in the salon for nail ridges? Any treatment can be performed, including overlays and lengthening treatments, which can be used to create a smooth look and feel. However, be careful when prepping ridged nails, as it is important to use a fine grit buff to gently buff over the nail. Do not use a very coarse buff or hard pressure because this could cause the nail to split open, exposing the nail bed underneath. Never file the ridges away to try and achieve a smooth finish, as this will cause damage and weakness to the nails. While applying product to the client’s nails, ensure you create a good upper arch; this will allow the nails to still look and feel smooth, regardless of what the nails look and feel like underneath the product. Advise your client to keep their nails nourished with cuticle oil and nail treatments, to wear gloves when doing housework so as to avoid harsh

online @ probeauty.co.za

chemicals, and to ensure correct product removal as pulling product off or incorrect product removal may cause further damage. Bear in mind that while we are not doctors, we are still able to identify when something is wrong with a client’s nails. However, we cannot diagnose a client with any specific illness, vitamin deficiency, or disease. It is always recommended that we advise our clients to seek medical advice for an accurate diagnosis.

Andrea Smith is an award-winning nail artist, salon owner of Forever Lavish Nails & Beauty in Krugersdorp, Bio Sculpture Educator and Professional Beauty’s Nail Technician of the Year 2020.

Nail Design Challenge

To coincide with the onset of Spring/Summer, we have created the Tropical Paradise theme. Nail techs should transport themselves into the hot, sunny and colourful world of the tropics, with its lush vegetation, exotic bird life and palm tree-lined white beaches, flanked by an aqua-blue ocean that is inhabited by all manner of decorative fish in a multitude of hues. The NailFile Tropical Paradise Photographic Nail Design Challenge is sponsored by Nail Couture. The deadline for entries is 20 November 2020 Rules & Regulations For any tips or advice please contact or What’sApp Sonette on 076 585 4191. • Designs must be created according to the theme – Tropical Paradise. • Rhinestones and embellishments may be used but must not dominate the design work. • Nail stylists have complete artistic freedom to create their designs in any style or combination of techniques, using flat, embossed, encapsulated 2D or 3D design work. • Designs can be created on tips and presented as a Tip Box display or attached to some form of background to display the work. • Photographs must be of a high quality and clarity to be able to see and judge the work that has been created. • Nails must be properly and neatly shaped, with the same shape and length consistent throughout. Any length and shape may be achieved to suit the design work and theme. • A combination of products and nail systems may be used, as long as it pertains to and complements the theme and look being achieved. • All 10 nails must have a design and creation on them, each design on each nail must be different but must complement one another, be consistent in design and flow throughout all 10 nails. • Judges will be looking at and judging on the following criteria: Theme following throughout the design on all 10 nails; Originality and own interpretation of theme; Consistency and continuity of design throughout; Neatness & Presentation; Design and technical quality and use of nail products.

Presentation & Step by Step

• Please provide a step by step of your work, which must include: An explanation of your interpretation and inspiration of the given theme behind your designs, Photos of your steps for each nail and how you achieved the design. Presentation should be themed according to the given set theme and can be presented as a word document, PDF or Power Point. • Designs must be the nail stylist’s own original work and not copied. • Photos must be emailed to nailfile@probeauty.co.za and clearly indicated and labeled with the name of the Nail Technician whose work it is. • Please make sure you submit good quality photos to be able to judge your work properly. • Please make sure you email your full details, salon name and contact details along with your photograph. • Winners and placements will be announced on social media and the November issue of Professional Beauty & NailFile magazine. • Please note that a panel of four judges will conduct the adjudication. The judges’ decision is final. online @ probeauty.co.za

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails

Classic route Looking back at its 30-year history, Bio Sculpture has determined its most popular colours and is now including them in the EVO range. The first six colours in the EVO Classic collection are: Esther (120), Stella (121), Naomi (122), Tracey (123), Karin (124) and Punam (125).

086 124 6435

Defence against dust The YN Dust Collector from Young Nails will keep your work space neat and dust-free. Its compact design is versatile for any size of work surface, with a whisper-quiet motor and powerful vacuum suction. The YN Dust Collector is easy to maintain with an acetone-resistant body and reusable filter.

011 393 2791

Chilled feet LCN’s Cooling Foot Spray provides feet with a pleasant kick of freshness, as well as nourishment, during the hot summer days. This cooling, tingling, crackling foam settles on the skin with a soothing effect and without a sticky residue. Glycerin provides extra moisture with a very pleasant and exotic fragrance.

010 593 3293

Platinum power The Nail Couture Platinum Gel Polish Collection consists of six highly pigmented and truly rich metallic shades infused with fine platinum flakes for that ‘wow’ look. The gel polish can be applied as a glamorous colour over any type of enhancement, or it can be used to add glitz accents in nail designs.

012 991 2146

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In the market

No shortcuts to success Sonette van Rensburg outlines why taking shortcuts when applying nail enhancements isn’t always the best idea Nowadays clients are far more clued up as to what the differences are between what is perceived as a professional nail enhancement application and an actual one, so don’t think you can bamboozle them. A client doesn’t mind paying a good price for a professional service and results, but then you need to make sure they are getting exactly what they are paying for and nothing less. They should feel that the money they have spent is worthwhile and far exceeds the amount of time they spend in the salon for a professional service. During the COVID-19 lockdown, nail techs started creating pre-designed press on nail sets for their clients, offering them beautifully designed tips, presented in gorgeous little boxes along with instructions on how to apply them. At the time, it was a really resourceful idea to get clients through the lockdown period and for nail techs to still make a living until the industry was allowed to open up again. However, the press on nails

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Enhancements

trend seems to have continued, and I am surprised to see that some nail techs are now inclined towards applying full tips on their clients, with no product overlay whatsoever and gel polish straight on top. We used to call these nails ‘weekenders’. Although this kind of application has its place and is great for a quick fix or event, it is most definitely not a long lasting professional enhancement application. Is the skill in being able to create a beautiful set of nail enhancements being forgotten and pushed aside for the sake of time and money? For years product companies have focused on and worked hard at innovating nail enhancement technology to ensure that products, application

techniques and methods are far safer and more sustainable than ever before. In addition, enhancement education has become more advanced and extensive, teaching nail techs everything they need to know and how to perfect their skills and techniques.

Damage factor I came across some consumer articles lately, saying press on nails and full tips are better and less damaging for your nails than enhancements, but are they really? The answer is NO. It may seem to be quicker and easier but there are a whole lot of reasons why it’s not. When applying a full tip, the tip does not always conform and fit to

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the client’s natural nail shape, resulting in air bubbles between the nail plate and tip. The air bubbles then get bigger and the nail eventually pops off and could take some of the natural nail with it. A client will then want to stick it back on, without cleaning the nail first, trapping dirt, debris or moisture between it with the glue, which could result in a bacterial infection. Although these are all problems that could also occur with the application of nail enhancements, the chances are minimal with a professional application that follows all the correct procedures.

Protocols When applying a set of nail enhancements professionally, nail techs are taught to perform certain procedures that have to be followed and here’s why. • Preparing the natural nail plate and surrounding skin This is one of the most important steps prior to applying nail enhancements; it ensures that the nail plate is completely clean and free of any contaminants, or anything that could interfere with the adhesion of enhancements. Preparation and adhesion products have advanced significantly over the years, so there is no longer the need to roughen up the nail plate to make sure the product adheres. Proper preparation also ensures longer lasting, problem free enhancements and minimises service breakdown and the risk of nail infections. • Product adhesion When nail enhancement products are correctly and professionally applied, they will adhere fully to the natural nail plate and surface without the help of glue. The product is applied to conform to the compound curves of the natural nail; prevents them from just popping or lifting off, gives them strength and durability,

ensuring service longevity. • Overall finishing Professionally applied nail enhancements are properly shaped and form-finished to seamlessly suit the client’s natural nail shape and hands, resulting in them being a continuation of the client’s own natural nails. This gives them a more natural and enhanced overall look, with thin, neat, and perfectly refined edges. Resulting in a beautiful, flawless finish that a full tip application can hardly compare with.

The long haul You may think that taking shortcuts in the salon will save you time, allowing you more time to do more services and treatments. On the contrary, it could cost you in the long run with your services not lasting as long as they should, resulting in unhappy clients having to return soon after their nails have been done. This would inevitably be a waste of time for the nail tech, who then has to fix the nails and will not do their reputation any good. You need to decide what’s important – making a quick buck or staying in this industry for the long haul and maintaining a good reputation that precedes you. Being proud of your work

and being able to create and engineer the perfect set of nail enhancements, while making sure you care about the health, integrity and condition of your client’s natural nails, is the ultimate goal. Nothing could be more satisfying or more rewarding, and you feel such a sense of achievement, especially when your client walks out as happy as can be, compliments you on your work all the way, and returns to you time after time. None of the big names in the industry made it to the top by doing things the quick and easy way; it takes hard work, passion and determination to become a true nail professional. So why not stick to doing things the proper and professional way, keeping the skill and art in creating beautiful nail enhancements alive? What we need to remember is that in this industry, there are no shortcuts to success.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years, and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands.

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Aesthetic Medicine

Treatments

Lending a

hand The COVID-19 pandemic has seen the enforced sanitisation of hands on entry into any public space – leaving the skin on the hands dry, cracked and in desperate need of moisture. A simple trip to the mall could see one’s hands sanitised multiple times within the space of an hour, depending on the number of shops one goes into. As per the WHO (World Health Organisation), sanitisers are meant to have an alcohol component of at least 70% to be effective against the coronavirus. Alcohol is known to have a dehydrating effect on the skin. In addition, prior to removing your face mask, you are meant to wash your hands in soap and water thoroughly for at least 20 minutes, and then again wash your hands in the same way once your mask is off. The constant sanitising and washing of hands, particularly in South Africa’s winter months (that have thankfully recently passed), has taken a serious toll on the skin on our hands. If ever the skin on your client’s hands needed some serious TLC, it’s now. Luckily there is a wide range of moisturising hand and

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cuticle products and treatments available from professional brands that can restore the hands.

Silken approach Spalicious’ Silky Soft Hand Therapy is a rejuvenating and replenishing non-oily formula rich in Omega 3, 6, 9 and Aqualance. This, combined with RevitElix, restores the moisture to the skin and helps retain the moisture. For an intensive treatment, a medium layer of the cream

can be applied to the hands and covered with cotton gloves overnight.

Sea fennel The LCN AntiAge Hand Cream is formulated with a lifting concentrate comprised of stem cells from sea fennel to regenerate skin and improve the much desired moisture depot. Jojoba oil protects the skin sustainably and reliably against water loss, as well as increasing the skin’s elasticity. Not only hydrating and moisturising, glycerine forms

a barrier that protects the skin against the excessive use of sanitiser. Lea Castro of Looking Good LCN recommends an in-salon treatment where glycolic peel is used to remove dead skin cells from the hands. She continues: “Our facial range enzyme peel is very effective and can certainly be used on the hands. This serum is applied and forced into the deep layer on the skin, using our Studio Skin Expert machine. This is followed by the Anti-Age Hand Cream, which is worked in with a luxurious relaxing massage.”

Soft and smooth Screaming Beauty, Twincare International’s very own brand, recently launched a retail size

Cuticle Cream with disinfectant nourishes and moisturises. Being antiseptic, it treats cuts, wounds and skin infections, while softening the cuticle. The cream

Blissful blend Nelé’s Hydrating Lotion is a lightweight, quick absorbing product that hydrates and nourishes the skin without leaving a greasy residue. There are no mineral oil derivatives in the formulation, but rather a blend of grape seed oil and shea butter, among other natural ingredients, as their molecules are smaller in size and have better penetration properties. Manufactured in South Africa, the lotion is lightly scented in either Apricot & Honey or Avocado & Cucumber.

version of its Rub Me lotion, part of the mani/ pedi range. Containing both honey and vanilla, this rich moisturising cream improves the condition of the skin and gives it a soft and smooth appearance.

All in one Calgel offers two products to treat dry hands, the first being the All In One Hand Cream, which is soothing, antiageing, nourishing and protecting. Everything you need in a hand cream. The All In One Cuticle Cream is intensely nourishing without a greasy feel, and contains cacao butter and vitamin E oil.

Milk & honey Milk Solutions combines paraben-free traditional and nontraditional beauty ingredients with advanced scientific technologies and processes to deliver effective, visible results. The Milk & Honey Hand & Elbow Balm is a moisture-rich, penetrative balm that hydrates and softens areas of dry, rough skin. Ingredients include glycerin, ricinus communis seed oil, sorbitan stearate and polysorbate 60.

Antiseptic treatment From Zsa Zsa Nails, the 3in1

is rich in vitamin E and thus protects against free radicals and other environmental damaging effects. As it also has a high water content, the cream provides anti-ageing benefits to keep the skin hydrated and more resistant to wrinkles caused by freeradical damage, the sun and daily pollution.

Multi-tasking Part of OPI’s Pro Spa range, the Protective Hand, Nail & Cuticle Cream is a multi-tasking high performance cream which moisturises, brightens and protects skin and cuticles, while nourishing nails. Cupuaçu helps nourish and moisturise the skin, while peptides helps to plump it. Protein-rich pro sina helps strengthens the natural nails. Daisy flower extract brightens and evens skin tone.

Marine benefits Thalgo’s Cold Cream Marine Hand Cream is a nourishing, lipidreplenishing treatment cream that is ideal for treating dry and very dry skin. It is thus perfect for hands that have been oversanitised. With four retail products in the range, the skin will be comforted, replenished and nourished, leaving it feeling soft and velvety. The exclusive Thalgo recipe consists of active ingredients from the oceans, namely algae wax and seve blue, to repair even the driest, cracked and painful hands.

Treatments

Step by Step

Fruit

flowers 1 2 4 5 Paint the nail black as your base (LCN NA8Black).

Accentuate the apple colour with light green and a darker green for depth (LCN Greenery & Anonymous).

1 3

Paint the nails with your base colour (LCN Raspberry whipped cream).

Create a Spider gel effect (LCN Nail art UV-Gel Black).

Paint a white base for the apple (LCN Nail Art UV-Gel white).

Add final touches with dark brown, black and light green (LCN Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re Meant to Be, NA8Black, Greenery).

2 4

3 6

Decorate the nail with spider gel effects (LCN Nail Art UV-Gel white). Seal the nail (LCN Ultra Shine +UV protector).

Paint a leaf design onto the nail with a fine line brush (LCN Velvet Petrol).

With rotational movements, create a floral design with white and dark pink colours (LCN Extra White, Pink Pepper) and add dots. Seal the nail (LCN Ultra Shine +UV protector).

Sarie Puth is from Pretoriabased salon, Pasion Nails, a specialist in nail design as well as hand and nail care.

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Apply green and yellow shades (LCN Greenery & Banana Beach).

NailFile talks to Cape Town-based nail technician / artist, Matthew Green, about being one of the few men in a very female-dominated industry. on themselves. I think that a lot of straight men will still have a fear of becoming nail technicians. It’s possible that there will be a gradual steady increase of male technicians, especially with the amount of male technicians making it big in the international scene. We can only hope that they will inspire other men to become nail techs.

err Tyra P y b p u Make-

Are there any overseas nail technicians / artists that inspire you or whose careers you follow?

It’s intimidating but I do enjoy it as I much prefer working around females. I thought many clients would be sceptical about having their nails done by a man, but that hasn’t been the case at all. The fact that I myself wear nail extensions really helps, I think.

Yes, my personal nail idol is actually a male tech who is named the ‘Tech to the Stars’ and known on social media as Chaun Legend. He is based in Los Angeles. I truly aspire to be him, not just with his A-list clientele, but with his insane artistic ability which, in my opinion, is rivalled by no-one. I am also inspired by Greg and Habib Salo of Young Nails, and their incredible refinement of nail techniques. And naturally, Kirsty Meakin, because she’s the reason I am doing nails today.

Possibly, but I personally don’t think there will be a massive increase in male techs within the next two to three years. This is simply because the concept of men wearing nail polish is only just now becoming a thing that men are actually willing to do. However, they still have an innate distaste against having nail extensions

I used to have a few male clients but I have since moved to a different suburb. When I was doing their nails, we started out with only one colour across all 10 nails. This gradually grew and by the 10th set, we were doing tie-dye designs, hippy vans, peace symbols, glow in the dark and a bunch more creative, yet

In South Africa most nail professionals are women. How does it feel to be one of the only male nail technicians in the country?

Do you think the number of male nail techs is likely to grow in South Africa?

‘masculine’, designs, and they loved it. I do see a lot more men stepping into the nail art side of things, but I don’t think it’s really hot in South Africa, because, the only men I’ve seen locally with nail polish, or manicured nails are male members of the LGBTQIA+ community.

Do most of your female customers request nail art? Yes, luckily I have steered my business towards being on the artistic side, so when I get new customers, they tend to have been referred to me or drawn in by my nail art and nail designs. But they normally start out doing plain, standard nail art. As they become more comfortable with me and the art, they start requesting

Do you have any male clients who request nail art?

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Business Trends Q&A

Top Tech Talk

Business Trends Q&A

56 more advanced and dynamic nail designs. I am strongly committed to the concept of bespoke nails, as every client is unique and an individual. Therefore, I believe that no two people should walk around with the exact same set of nails.

Is there a particular style or type of nail art that you really like doing? I’ve always loved doing marbles and gemstone designs. But recently I have really gotten into, and developed a passion for, character drawing on nails, not

film school. Do you use your filmmaking skills to showcase your nails on social media? Yes I do. Ranging from content creation on my YouTube channel, in conjunction with Zsa Zsa Nails, ‘Zsa Zsa by Matthew’ is where I upload tutorials. I also create short videos for Instagram, Facebook and TikTok. I am currently working with a film school friend of mine to create cinematic product videos of Zsa Zsa’s incredible range.

and only using nail varnish. In film school I used to get a lot of comments, but honestly, 90% of them were incredibly positive.

How did you first become aware of Zsa Zsa Nails? On the first day that I went to the academy for training, I met Nadia Erasmus, of Nadz Hope Nails, who introduced me to the wonderful world of nail art. She told me about Zsa Zsa’s advanced art course, which I immediately knew was something I wanted to do. I also did an apprenticeship with Nadia and it was a phenomenal experience. I learned how to attend to each and every client, as well as how to sculpt and file incredibly long nails, all forms of nail art, etc. I was also her model at the 2019 Professional Beauty Nail Competition, in which she sculpted the longest nails I have ever seen in my life.

I believe you worked for some time at a salon called Tease Hair & Beauty in Cape Town? Yes, I approached them when they posted a job opportunity online. They interviewed me, I did the bosses’ nails, and I got the job. It was truly a phenomenal experience. I worked with some necessarily real life characters, but rather cartoon characters. I actually find that men really enjoy the character sets.

What is your favourite design that you have created?

It was only five nails inspired by the hugely successful Rick and Morty franchise. I basically did a mural / Marvel movie poster layout of three characters from the show on each nail, with specific groupings on each nail, with the iconic portal gun portal as the background in glow-in-thedark green. The groupings were ‘The Meeseeks’, ‘The Total-Rickall Parasites’, ‘The Smith Family’, ‘The Pocket Mortys/Alternate Universe Mortys’ and ‘The Council of Ricks’.

Before you moved into nails, you studied at online @ probeauty.co.za

How did your friends and family react when you told them you were going to become a nail tech? Well, already being a homosexual and having always painted my nails since literally the day after high school, they weren’t surprised. My Granny was actually the one who said that she would pay for me to study nails. The Christmas prior to that I had bought my first nail lamp and some gels, so I was already practising extensions and doing my Mom’s nails as well as her friends.

When you were at film school, did people comment on your nails?

Yes, I’ve always been able to grow my nails up to a maximum of 2cm from the edge of the finger,

Q&A

absolutely amazing people and made incredible friends. The clients were also wonderful and the environment was magical and joyful. It was truly like a family, even our boss was more of a colleague than a boss, but of course still the boss when she needed to be. I miss working in a salon, but at the same time, I think I prefer working for myself. But I would never trade my life-long friends made in the salon.

What are your future ambitions?

I am currently working on becoming a fully-ledged distributor and sales agent for Zsa Zsa Nails and hope to become an educator for them. My ultimate goal is to own some retail space within a mall like Century City, not just for my products and for Zsa Zsaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, but also for any small, local brand that dreams of having some retail space.

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