Salon International August 2021 by Professional Beauty SA

Testimonials Make the most of them

Exit Strategy

Do you have one?

May 2021 | saloninternational.co.za

Hair Loss Support your clients

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In this issue...

TIPS FOR TESTIMONIALS

Here are my three pieces of invaluable advice on getting great testimonials to use in your marketing

Regulars

Welcome

really proud of the Essentially it’s an Change how you automated prompt react to ‘thank yous’. work you’ve done, after a customer’s When someone says newsyou’re pleased with 4-6 Industry how happy they appointment to ask “thank you” for a job and international are, and news would they them to leave a review. well doneLocal – I don’t mind writing a quick mean for a fringe trim, testimonial for you? I but 8 something like a Interview Run a promotion. Colourist guarantee it works! colour correction or I needed to get a top colour specialist shares their thoughts and wedding A hair – instead bunch of testimonials of saying “You’re quickly for some Get a system for ideas welcome!” I want you marketing I was putting collecting customer to say something like: “I together, so I emailed reviews. really If your reception system my current customers 10 appreciate The Bigyour Debate thanks, but actually and promised them a is computerised, talk Two industry leaders a hot topic affecting I was wondering if free bottle of shampoo to yourdebate supplier. Some you couldthe doindustry me a for every review they systems have review favour?” Then stop sent me by email. collection built-in. talking! I guarantee I got some great ones, Others work with a 33 The Hot List the customer will say some less useful, but partner to provide “yes” without even importantly I got a LOT something similar – I’ve What new products are now on the market hesitating. When they of testimonials quickly. had brilliant success do, tell them you are with SalonSpy.co.uk.

n spite of all the troubles and trials that South Africa has been going through recently, we hope 3 that you are keeping motivated, inspired, healthy 2 and happy. It has been quite a year and there are plenty of memes’ on social media about how the year has gone. Sadly for us at Salon International, we have yet again been forced to postpone our exhibition at Gallagher Convention Centre. There is just too much uncertainty at the moment about a 4th wave and planning an Business event in these circumstances is just too difficult for all play, but you want a really targeted • They say: “Yes of course” 11 if Testimonials testimonial (see what I mean below) In my experience one of two things concerned. We hope you will bear with us and we hope building you can’t goEssential far wrongtoby writing your brand happens – they either approve the the testimonial for them. It sounds testimonial as it is, which is great to welcome you to an exciting hairdressing event in cheeky, it works like this: because it hits all the points you want 18butEmbrace Change • Ask your customer for a testimonial covered. Or, occasionally, they’ll2022. crisis into an opportunity about, say,Turn hair aextensions edit or rewrite the testimonial and • They say: “Yes of course”, make it even more glowing and In this issue we have some great business topics for (hopefully!) fantastic. I’ve never had a testimonial 30 Exit Strategy you to enjoy and hopefully use in your own working • You say: “I know you’re busy, and I “downgraded”. Do you plans for selling your business? want to make it as have easy as possible life. In addition the fashion pages are packed with for you. Can I write a paragraph Turn the page to find out what to for you and send it to you for you Treatments do with your testimonials… great inspirational images. to approve?” 70 / hji.co.uk

16 Hair Loss Helping your clients with this challenging problem

Fashion/Inspiration 20 A story of her 24 La Femme Fatal 28 Softly Softly 36 Punk Propaganda

Have a great month and do please send us any feedback on our articles or any topic you would like us to cover in the future,

Phil

To advertise in this publication please call Phil on 084 759 2024 phil@tetradeevents.com Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970

Special thanks to contributing editor Joanna Sterkowicz and Hairdressers Journal Cover photo Shutterstock

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NEWS

INDUSTRY NEWS Salon International JHB Expo postponed due to COVID uncertainty The Professional Beauty flagship Johannesburg Expo, which was scheduled to take place at Gallagher Convention Centre on 24 and 25 October this year, has been postponed to March 2022. Says Professional Beauty commercial director, Phil Woods: “It is so frustrating as an event organiser to try and plan ahead whilst the pandemic continues to pose such a threat to the country. Misinformation, general uncertainty and a government that is not always clear or consistent in its approach to this have unfortunately made the decision to postpone inevitable. “The health of our visitors and exhibitors is paramount and will always be at the top of our minds and therefore in light of all I have mentioned, we have no choice but to move the event to next year. At the moment we are looking at late March 2022 as a possible date.” Woods notes that in the meantime, Professional Beauty is planning to host a conference & mini-expo (comprising table top stands) this October at Bryanston Country Club in Johannesburg. The event will cover beauty, nails, business,

spa and aesthetic medicine. “This will be like the Aesthetic Medicine conference & mini-expo that we ran in April this year, which had a limited number of exhibitors and delegates allowed,” explains Woods. “The April event was very well received by everyone who took part. It was certainly evident that people were delighted to be participating in a physical event and enjoyed networking, in a safe, socially distanced manner, with their peers in the industry.” More details about the conference & mini-expo will be

The world’s first toxicology testing strategy without animal testing has been approved by the OECD (Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development). Developed and validated in a joint effort by BASF and Givaudan, the testing strategy consists of three so-called alternative methods. These can be used to predict whether a substance causes allergic reactions in the skin. Unlike in the past, animal testing will no longer be necessary for this. Before a new product is approved by the authorities and placed on the market, numerous tests must be carried out. This includes testing whether the product sensitises the skin. Until now, this has always required animal testing. “To replace animal testing, one alternative method is not enough when it comes to skin sensitisation. To assess skin sensitisation, which is caused by a complex process in the

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Photo by Julia Koblitz on Unsplash

World’s first nonanimal toxicology testing strategy developed

organism, we need a combination of three methods,” Landsiedel explains. With the results from these three tests, scientists can predict whether a substance will cause an allergic reaction in humans.” In addition to the testing strategy, another new alternative method has received OECD approval. With the so-called Kinetic Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay, researchers can predict how intense an allergic reaction is. This alternative testing method is a further achievement of the joint effort between Givaudan and BASF and can complement the now approved testing strategy.

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Upfront Distribution’s gutted warehouse

Looting takes heavy toll on Salon industry Several salons and beauty businesses in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) and Gauteng were directly affected by the nine-daylong spree of looting that unfolded in July, resulting from political riots protesting the incarceration of former president, Jacob Zuma. Diana and Nick Coleman of long established Durbanbased supplier, Upfront Distribution, awoke on the morning of 12th July to hear that their Cornubia Warehouse had been totally burnt to the ground. Says Nick Coleman: “The entire warehouse was gutted by fire and the stock holding of approximately R5 million destroyed. We are saddened by these unnecessary events but have committed to rebuild and to support our clients and staff. “During the looting, many of our clients and staff lived in fear in Durban and Johannesburg. Images of looting and arson were slowly replaced by images of communities standing together with brooms and garbage bags to clean up stores and streets. We believe that the industry needs to unite and rebuild our lives and businesses so that we can grow the economy.”

in Watercrest Mall was totally ransacked. “This salon was so badly destroyed that the owner doesn’t know if she will ever be able to reopen,” said Frost. “Some of our members in KZN had to temporarily suspend their operations during the looting, with mall landlords requesting they close. These salons were shut for a week, which from an employer-employee perspective meant – no business, no pay. This has had a massive negative impact on the industry.” Regarding EOHCB members in Gauteng, divisional manager, Choert Maartens, commented: “Luckily, the majority of our member salons in Gauteng were not too badly affected, other than having to close early to give staff a chance to get home safely. In some instances though, staff weren’t able to get to work for a day or two because of the rioting. “I think it was the salons in Soweto malls like Maponya Mall and Jabulani Mall that were most affected. An EOHCB member salon in Maponya Mall had to shut down completely during the rioting, but has since reopened.”

Feedback from franchises

President of industry body, SAAHSP, Ansa Bronkhorst, reported that SAAHSP was in contact with its members throughout the looting, especially the ones in the affected areas. “Some of these businesses had to close down for the period of the riots. As I spoke to the owners, they were hiding in houses, hearing gunshots all around while their men had to protect the outside areas. I don’t think we realise the fear and anxiety that they had to go through. “Many salons took strain as there was a lot of cancellations due to people being too scared to venture out. I am sure that there are others that we don’t know of, that were also affected, and we can only pray that these businesses survive.”

All stores within the Sorbet Group in KZN closed during the looting, as well as selected stores in Gauteng. Said Sorbet Group CEO, Linda Sinclair: “We closely monitored the situation with franchise partners and the relevant authorities throughout the event and only reopened salons when safe. “The Group recently donated bread, milk, tinned food, nappies and formula to our franchise partners and citizens [staff] in KZN as part of our efforts to assist those affected.”

Suspension of operations According to Dane Frost, divisional manager of the KZN branch of the EOHCB (Employers Organisation for Hairdressing, Cosmetology and Beauty), a member salon

Fear and anxiety

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Photo by Tom Fisk, Pexelbay

A more sustainable future Wella Professionals shifts to a more sustainable, ecoresponsible future The world’s leading salon professional colour brand, Wella Professionals reveals changes in its colour line towards more sustainable packaging, including colour tubes, now made of 100% recyclable aluminium.1 As part of its ongoing journey towards becoming a more sustainable brand, Wella Professionals: • Has shifted production of colour tubes to 100% recycled aluminum, avoiding using over 700 tons of virgin aluminium per year. • Has moved to 96-100% Post-Consumer Recycled (PCR2) plastic caps2, saving over 180 tons of virgin plastic per year. • Uses 85% recycled cardboard packaging, supporting responsible management of the world’s forests. The change embraces all Wella Professionals’ colour lines including its flagship #1 professional colour brand Koleston Perfect ME+3 and its premium colour brand Illumina Color. The announcement is part of a series of steps towards a more sustainable and responsible approach to business. The effort is in line with the brand’s sustainability production efforts and comes on top of its European manufacturing facility4 moving to zero waste to landfill, using 100% renewable electricity supply, 100%

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green electricity and 100% carbon-neutral gas consumption. Colour tubes constitute over 90% of overall packaging of professional colour products, typically made out of aluminum, and which normally end up in the trash bins of salons. The shift to aluminum tubes from 100% recycled aluminum, helps the brand to responsibly support a circular economy. “We are thrilled to continue our own efforts, linked to packaging and manufacturing, but also including our salon and retail partners in this journey towards a cleaner and greener planet,” says Ariadne Oliveira, Global Vice-President of Wella Professionals. “From company commitments to salon behavior, with the #WellaFamily, small changes add up. Whether it’s one small tube, cap or box, we are enabling hairdressers to make the choice towards a more eco-responsible future, leading to one big impact!” Wella Professionals is committed to becoming more environmentally conscious with its One Small Change For One Big Change campaign which aims to drive education within the hair industry, inviting hair professionals and consumers to take a positive step in the right direction. #MakeChange

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COLOURIST INTERVIEW

tions a s r e v n Co

R U O COL with…

Corey Taylor, co-founder NOCO Hair, shares the shades she can’t get enough of and the hues she’d like to see the back of

Corey Taylor

What do you love most about being a colourist?

I love that colour gives me the ability to enhance each of my guest’s individual beauty. Understanding the logistics behind what really works for someone, whether it’s to create the illusion of thickness, bring out the colour of their eyes or give their skin that healthy glow – I just love the impact that colour has. I’m also a bit of a geek so I LOVE the science and processes behind a great colour! Where do you go for your colour inspiration?

fighting warmth; bring back the coppers and rich golden blondes I say! What are the biggest challenges facing professional colourists at the moment?

Definitely managing expectations. In 2021 no one got the ‘New Year, New Me’ hair that they usually get, and after lockdowns people were looking for a drastic change in one visit which was not always possible. Sometimes, we had to pop those platinum blonde bubbles! Lockdown also led to a lot of people becoming home hairdressers which has led to a whole lot of corrective work. Even now, when we’ve been open several months, we are still working on corrections.

Instagram is my go-to place for colour and in the last year I’ve also used it for education. I follow a lot of amazing hair colourists from all over the world, so I like to check in to see what they are up to. Celebrity trends always seem to filter down to the consumer market so I keep an eye out for COREY'S MOODBOARD the latest ‘it looks’. Jennifer Lopez is a perfect example, if she’s got a bob then bobs are in, if she’s got chunky highlights then they’re back too. What are your favourite colouring techniques?

I adore all things balayage, especially creating that seamless blend. To create the perfect blend, we lift the hair first with highlights and use our signature soft blend technique using a combination of toners for a flawless melt from root to tip. Post-lockdown locks needed a little more love and often a reverse balayage was required to bring a mane of hair back to its former glory. By deepening the roots then adding ribbons of depth we are able to add tone and dimension back into the hair with no need to lighten. What colour trends are you pleased to see out of fashion?

The 1990s chunky face frame! I love a face frame when it’s soft, natural and sun-kissed but something about the Geri Halliwell stripe just doesn't do it for me. Also I don’t love silver – is it just me or is it every colourists worst nightmare? Especially on those dark bases! Are there any colouring techniques you’d like to bring back?

I feel like colouring techniques are always evolving and going in the right direction looking at more innovative ways to create beautiful looks. I wish people would stop

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What’s been your most memorable colour consultation?

Whilst working at my old salon, I was struggling to explain to a guest why their inspiration picture was not achievable. After 30 minutes I asked a colleague for back up and she simply said, “Look, we’re not Harry Potter!” I still laugh about it now – luckily the guest saw the funny side too… What colour creation makes you most proud?

I get satisfaction from creating a flawless blend which is seamless from root to tip. I love hair that is beautiful, elegant and technically well executed. What do you enjoy most about your day to day job?

I love looking after people, seeing their face light up when they see their new look, the twinkle in their eye and the spring in their step as they leave the salon feeling fabulous. I also love educating my team, sharing my knowledge and offering my guidance so that they can look after their guests and create beautiful colours. Seeing them flourish makes me immensely proud. What advice would you give to a trainee colourist?

Assist and shadow other colourists as much as possible; there is so much you can learn from watching others and being around their creativity. Listen to their consultation, watch their placement and technique and make sure you see what the end result looks like. Don’t be afraid to ask questions, remember that no question is a stupid one. The more you ask the more you learn.

Up to 8 weeks colour protection* Stronger hair from root to tip** Reduces the formation of free radicals*** *when using Structure+ Mask **when using Structure+ Mask vs. no treatment ***valid for Microlight, Pure Balance technologies & ColorMotion+

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BUSINESS

The Debate

Afro or textured hair: Which is more appropriate? What terminology should the hairdressing industry use? We asked two experts to weigh in…

“I use the term Afro hair but also very curly and textured when it seems appropriate” “In short, I generally use the term Afro hair but also say ‘very curly’ and ‘textured’ when it seems appropriate. There are three distinct hair categories based on people’s heritage: Caucasian, Asian and African. Personally I feel the term ‘textured hair’ is more generic. I can put texture in my (Caucasian) hair while I’m cutting or styling it, but I wouldn’t say that means I have curly hair. Everybody is born with a specific hair texture and it may even change over a lifetime. The amount of curls and waves we have is dependent on the number of disulfide bonds between hair proteins in the hair shaft; the greater the number of links, the curlier the hair. Let’s get technical – hair is primarily composed of keratin, a protein which grows from the follicle. Keratin is formulated in the cells of the hair follicle. All of the proteins become part of the hair shaft and contain sulphur atoms. When two atoms bond, they form a disulfide bond. If the two atoms in the same protein are at a distance, and join to form the disulfide bond, the protein will bend. This is how curls are created. According to the Andre Walker Hair Typing System there are four hair types and each contains subdivisions A,B and C. Types 4B & C are very curly hair, including Afro hair, but people of different ethnicities can have these hair types too. This is a very simplified explanation, of course. The chances are you will find more than one type of curl pattern on one head. Personally, I choose to focus on the most predominant pattern. I’ll continue to use the term Afro as it is accepted and used by my clients.”

“The use of terminology is extremely important when it comes to Afro and textured hair. Ask around and you’ll receive a number of different opinions and thoughts. For me when I think about Afro hair, I see it in many different forms from curls with a defined ‘s’ shape to them, all the way to a super tight coil. For example, if you were to look at a curl chart for curly hair types, Afro hair starts at the 3s all the way through to 4Cs, which I perceive to be completely different. The way you handle the hair and the products you apply on each different curl type will definitely vary, hence why I believe using the word textured over Afro makes sense. In addition, as we are now seeing more and more people in interracial relationships, the texture of hair is even more apparent as different genetics are mixing and coming into play. For example, my heritage is a mixture of Jamaican, Cuban and Italian and White British. As a result of this, my hair was a much looser 3C when I was younger and actually changed into more of a 4A/4B as I got older; now my hair is definitely a variety of many textures. When working with clients with textured hair I know that giving a thorough consultation and looking through their hair is so important. I may be working with a variety of textures and knowing that there may be many different types of hair on one head is so important. Knowing and understanding this means I can work with the client’s hair texture and ensure that I get the best outcome possible for the client – and I always find out how they like to style their hair. This is why I prefer to use the terminology textured over Afro.”

Anne Veck, director of Anne Veck Oxford

Cimone Cheveux, freelance hairdresser and bridal expert

SHUTTERSTOCK

“Afro hair comes in many forms, so I prefer to use textured”

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TESTIMONIALS

RATE, REVIEW, REPEAT Business consultant Phil Jackson from Build Your Salon, looks at how to best use testimonials for your salon

The growth of sites like TripAdvisor shows that reviews carry a lot of marketing clout. I know that whenever I am going to spend more than a few pounds on Amazon, the reviews can make or break my purchase. Testimonials and reviews can be a vital marketing pillar in the salon business too. It’s lovely to hear from clients that they enjoyed their services, but testimonials can be much more than a confirmation of a job well done. Current customer reviews can also play a large part in building trust with new customers, who are still deciding if they can trust us with their hard-earned cash, their bodies and their hair. Actively solicit testimonials

Many salons have a bank of user reviews on their Facebook and Google My Business pages, but rely on the customer feeling the need to share their thoughts. The problem is, customers will only leave the vaguest of comments – and that is a missed opportunity. Hoping for users to submit reviews is a very passive, reactive way of gathering feedback. Being more proactive about gathering testimonials gives you the chance to steer the comments towards marketing gold! I’m not going to patronise you by telling you to “do a great job” – I’m sure you already do. You just need people to put it in writing! Make it really easy

The automated systems are child’s

TIPS FOR TESTIMONIALS

Here are my three pieces of invaluable advice on getting great testimonials to use in your marketing

Change how you react to ‘thank yous’. When someone says “thank you” for a job well done – I don’t mean for a fringe trim, but something like a colour correction or wedding hair – instead of saying “You’re welcome!” I want you to say something like: “I really appreciate your thanks, but actually I was wondering if you could do me a favour?” Then stop talking! I guarantee the customer will say “yes” without even hesitating. When they do, tell them you are

really proud of the work you’ve done, you’re pleased with how happy they are, and would they mind writing a quick testimonial for you? I guarantee it works!

Get a system for collecting customer reviews. If your reception system is computerised, talk to your supplier. Some systems have review collection built-in. Others work with a partner to provide something similar – I’ve had brilliant success with SalonSpy.co.uk.

play, but if you want a really targeted testimonial (see what I mean below) you can’t go far wrong by writing the testimonial for them. It sounds cheeky, but it works like this: • Ask your customer for a testimonial about, say, hair extensions • They say: “Yes of course”, (hopefully!) • You say: “I know you’re busy, and I want to make it as easy as possible for you. Can I write a paragraph for you and send it to you for you to approve?”

Essentially it’s an automated prompt after a customer’s appointment to ask them to leave a review.

Run a promotion. I needed to get a bunch of testimonials quickly for some marketing I was putting together, so I emailed my current customers and promised them a free bottle of shampoo for every review they sent me by email. I got some great ones, some less useful, but importantly I got a LOT of testimonials quickly.

• They say: “Yes of course” In my experience one of two things happens – they either approve the testimonial as it is, which is great because it hits all the points you want covered. Or, occasionally, they’ll edit or rewrite the testimonial and make it even more glowing and fantastic. I’ve never had a testimonial “downgraded”. Turn the page to find out what to do with your testimonials…

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TESTIMONIALS

HOW TO MAKE YOUR 5* REVIEWS WORK HARDER When you have your reviews, date and file them, and add one to every piece of marketing you send out, put one in the footer of emails and share them like mad on social media! I even have this one on my business card:

“The highest quality of cutting and treatments is matched by the excellence of personal attention and service … This salon is without parallel locally!” Rod King

Can you imagine me writing that as an advert? You’d never pay the least attention to it, but as a testimonial it packs a real punch. Here’s how the pros use testimonials

This is taking your marketing to the next level. It’s more work, but works.

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First, survey a mixture of your ideal clients and the people matching your target audience. Ask them for, say, five things that are important to them in the choice of salon. Your results might look something like this: 1. Great technical skills 2. Friendly service 3. Great consultation 4. Late night opening 5. Ease of parking Then, you collect testimonials from your customers specifically addressing the issues you’ve discovered. One saying what amazing skills you have in service, a different one saying how friendly your whole team is, and so on. I would make sure those five testimonials have pride of place on your homepage and you use them in rotation on your marketing materials. If you have a third party telling your prospects how great you are at the things that matter most to them, you can bet they’ll read the rest of your marketing message. By pairing up testimonials with customer objections, we position the salon as the natural choice to solve their problems. Make the most of your current customer reviews to make it rain!

Business

THE CORRECT MINDSET TOWARDS EMPLOYMENT CONTRACTS

g ns and findin o ti s e u q g n ri t impact our bout answe a a th is s e rk g o n w e ll r a u ts, o us ch As consultan e of the vario c fa e th llenges that a in h , c s e n la m p o s n o re ere a suitable acti s to o find that th d e w r, e lly with regard v ia e c w e o p s H e . ; rs s e e b mselv mem ng upon the ri b rs e n w o s busines t Contracts. Employmen

o give you an idea, a member has a nail technician that just is not molding well with the team. The nail technician is frequently late and does not really have a nice personality. The member wants to know if he can tell the employee to go? The member says that he has not given the Employee a contract, so the Employee is not really employed yet!

received a suggested sanction of dismissal from a chairperson after holding a disciplinary hearing (Contact your EOHCB representative for more information about progressive disciplinary processes); secondly, the presences of a Contract of Employment does not constitute whether an Employment Relationship exists or not.

There are so many red flags in this question; firstly, lateness and ‘personality’ are not suitable reasons for a dismissal – Unless you have proven history of progressive disciplinary action and have

1. Formal establishment of the Employment Relationship Yes, this establishes the nature of the employment relationship and the terms and conditions thereof, however, there is space within

The contract of employment has 3 major areas of significance:

Labour Law that allows this relationship to be established, despite the absence of a formal contract. For example, if an Employee is illiterate, and is dismissed, the only proof needed to prove the existence of the employment relationship would be that the Employee did indeed work, and that they received payment for said work. This then establishes that the Employer is duty-bound to validate why this relationship has since been terminated. Failure to do this, will result in the Employer losing this dispute 2. Establish the Employee’s

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prevent as many risks as possible, while also adding value to your business. The Main Collective Agreement of the Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Skincare, and Beauty Industry in clause 7.5.1 states that an Employer shall furnish each Employee employed with a letter of appointment and Contract of Employment, which shall include the following: in table 1. An Employer, operating under the scope of the National Bargaining Council for Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Skincare, and Beauty Industry who fails to adhere to clause 7.5.1 and sub-clauses is in contravention of the Main Collective Agreement and should seek immediate assistance through the EOHCB to rectify. Same applies to Employers operating outside the scope of the National Bargaining Council for Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Skincare, and Beauty Industry, section 29 of the Basic Conditions of Employment Act provides for certain written particulars of employment to be provided as minimum, and every Employer is legally obligated to provide all Employees with these minimum particulars in writing not later than that the first day of employment.

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Table 1 7.5.1.1 the Employee’s full names, address, ID number and occupation of the Employee; 7.5.1.2 date of commencement of service; 7.5.1.3 the title of the Employee’s occupation; 7.5.1.4 the remuneration or basic salary and/or commission and/or wages for that occupation; 7.5.1.5 the days and hours of work; 7.5.1.6 the place of work, and an indication whether the Employee may render services at other Establishments of the same Employer, if applicable; 7.5.1.7 the salary rate and method of calculation as well as frequency of payment; 7.5.1.8 the rate of pay for overtime worked; 7.5.1.9 details of deductions to be made from the Employee’s salary; 7.5.1.10 all leave entitlements; and 7.5.1.11 the period of notice required.

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HAIR LOSS

Helping with

HAIR LOSS You won’t have failed to notice that hair loss has been in the spotlight since the start of the pandemic. Here, the experts share how you can support your clients in the chair Hair loss can occur for a number of reasons, and while it should be diagnosed and treated as a medical condition by a GP or trichologist, hairdressers are often the first port of call when clients notice changes. “It’s key that hairdressers take into consideration the concerns of their client, but that they know their limitations,” says Glenn Lyons, senior trichologist and clinical director at Philip Kingsley. Although hair loss is a medical condition, there are some holistic ways that hairdressers can offer support from how often to brush, to what styles will help disguise thinning.

Image credit: Nioxin

CONSULT SENSITIVELY

FIND THE RIGHT CUT AND COLOUR

When it comes to broaching the subject with clients, sensitivity is key, says Amber Letham, a Crazy Color ambassador. “I try to be as sensitive as possible and let clients know that what they are experiencing is completely normal. Hair loss can happen to anyone and for a multitude of reasons,” she adds. “I will always recommend they see a trichologist, as they have a lifetime of knowledge about the hair and scalp and can effectively determine the problem,” she says. The topic can be easier to raise with regular clients, however, for new clients it’s important to ask the right questions, says Matrix ambassador, Carol Ritchie. “That is why a consultation is key. Why not ask: ‘Is there anything you would like to change about your hair – if there is, what would it be?’, ‘Have you noticed any changes in your hair?’ and ‘Have you changed anything about your diet and lifestyle?’.” This will provide an overall picture of how they feel about their hair.

Suggest a haircut which would help hide the thinning areas, advises Carol. “A shorter haircut will put less stress on the hair or suggest something to make their hair appear thicker like a classic square blunt bob or soft layers with wispy bangs,” she says. As long as the hair is not compromised, colour placement can create the illusion of fullness. “Balayage, babylights and face-framing techniques are options, as is all over block colour to help give the hair depth and shine,”says Carol. Lastly, don’t be scared to brush. “Any hair that comes out whilst brushing would have come out over the next 10 days anyway,” says Mark Blake, trichologist for Nioxin. “Normal hair in its growing phase cannot be pulled out even if you try to do it. But be careful of brushing hair aggressively even when in good health, as it is easily damaged by harsh brushing.”

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HAIR LOSS

IMAGE: NIOXIN

CONNECT WITH GPS AND TRICHOLOGISTS

HOW TO ASSESS HAIR LOSS IN THE SALON

Hairdressers can work effectively alongside medical professionals with wig services. “We offer services within our salon for hair loss that’s due to illness such as cancer or alopecia,” says Schwarzkopf ambassador, Tim Scott-Wright. “One of our senior stylists went on a training course to learn about wig cutting for hair loss and conducting sensitive consultations,” he says. “When we have a hair loss consultation, it’s a private service held in a separate room to the rest of the salon and will be just between the specialised stylist and client,” he adds. While it’s not openly advertised, it’s proving popular. “Our local GP practice and nurses at the nearby hospital know what we offer and will refer patients to us when they are at that stage. It’s done very subtly, but is successful for us,” says Tim.

If a client comes in who is concerned, Glenn recommends shampooing the hair. “Ask the junior if they can check the hair when they are washing it,” he says, to observe the shedding. “On someone with long hair, 50 hairs will look more than 50 hairs from shorter hair,” Glenn adds, so take this into consideration. You should also ask the client how often they wash their hair. “The longer that it is left between washes, the more the hair will shed,” he adds. “It doesn’t shed more, but it accumulates. So the longer they leave between washes the more it becomes a noticeable problem.” He recommends waiting four to five weeks to see if the issue selfcorrects, and then referring to a trichologist.

ASK THE RIGHT QUESTIONS While hair loss needs to be examined medically, what about clients who are desperately seeking advice during their appointment? “Establishing a timeline is very important; when did they start to notice the hair loss?, how much hair do they feel they are losing? Talk in percentages to make this easy,” advises Skyler McDonald at Skyler London for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. “Ask if anything has dramatically changed in their life, such as stress and diet,” she adds. Andy Smith, founder of Hairslydz, also recommends swapping hair elastics for silk schrunchies.

THE ROLE OF DIET

IN-SALON SCALP SERVICES The Nioxin Dermabrasion treatment is an in-salon service that is essentially an exfoliating facial for the scalp, helping to maintain good scalp and hair health. “Hair health is directly linked to scalp health,” explains Mark. “We treat our faces but stop at our hairline and totally ignore the delicate skin on our scalp,” he says. “But dermabrasion will help create the best possible environment for your hair to grow,” he adds.

Encourage your client to eat regularly, says Glenn. “After the gut, hair cells have the highest proliferation, but they are not essential,” he says. So if you’re not eating enough, energy will be prioritised to major organs over the hair. This makes breakfast particularly important. “If someone is not eating lunch until 1pm, that’s a lot of hours without food,” says Glenn. “It’s fine overnight, but in the morning you are expending energy.” While protein is important, Glenn recommends eating complex carbohydrates (including potatoes, cereals, rice and bread) at least once per day, as they are essential to give the hair energy. Vitamins B12 and vitamin D are important for healthy hair. “Around 50% of people in the UK are vitamin D deficient,” explains Glenn. “If we find inflammation on the scalp and below the surface, we do a vitamin D test,” he says. Minerals, iron and zinc are also crucial. Pheratin – which is the amount of iron stored in the body – is often low in menstruating women. “We often get women coming in with temporary hair loss, but their hair loss is purely due to low levels of pheratin,” adds Glenn.

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Crisis creates

Opportunity As we all adjust to the new normal, it’s hard to know which changes in client behaviour will be permanent, so it’s time to embrace change and seek feedback, advises Hellen Ward Without getting too spiritual, one can’t really ignore the rules of the universe. The 12 universal laws are: 1. Divine oneness (everything is connected) 2. Vibration (everything has a vibrational frequency) 3. Attraction (what is like unto itself is drawn) 4. Correspondence (as above, so below) 5. Action (manifestation requires aligned action) 6. Cause and effect (every action has a consequence) 7. Compensation (we are rewarded for right action) 8. Perpetual energy (everything is always moving and changing) 9. Relativity (it’s all relative) 10. Polarity (there are two sides to everything) 11. Rhythm (nothing is permanent) 12. Gender (manifestation requires a balance of energies)

As you get older (and potentially wiser!) you realise just how indisputable these laws are. So, how can we apply these wise, ancient learnings to our businesses? A very successful investor friend recently told me how he’d completely reworked some of his business models through the crisis and his mindset seemed to echo the 12 universal laws. “Never waste a crisis,” he said. “Don’t worry about what you can’t directly effect.” Common sense to some but “how do you apply that commercially?” I asked. “It’s about agility, pragmatism, flexibility and passion. One thing is certain, it will never again be business as usual,” came

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the reply. His message is clear – businesses that will not just survive but flourish will have to embrace these principles, to accept the universal laws. We can’t change COVID-19 or how the world has become as a result, but every problem creates an opportunity and a smart business never wastes the opportunity to look at the result of a crisis. Over the past 18 months we have realised just how relevant the old motto of ‘adapt or die’ has become. Salons have to adapt, clients have to adapt, staff have to adapt, landlords have to adapt, and now what is clear is that the way our sector is treated has to adapt. I think it’s fair to say that the whole personal care sector feels like it has been thrown under a bus. It seems to be either feast or famine. We open our salons to stampedes and then once everyone has been ‘done’, the tumbleweed starts blowing again. Maybe it’s time to start looking at our offerings and realise that the way things used to be simply don’t apply anymore. The effect of working from home, coupled with COVID-19 angst, has seen lots of previously loyal customers resolutely stay away from close contact services. Whether this is a permanent shift remains to be seen. But even if 10% to 30% of your customers are reacting in this way, the financial implications could be catastrophic. Ask your clients what they want from you in the postcoronavirus era and adapt your offering and services to suit – that’s the key. There is, however, the Steve Jobs attitude of ‘people don’t know what they want until you give it to them’, but if you temper this with a genuine desire to find out how habits, mindset and demands are different, it’s a good place to start.

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London and a beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF).

Business Trends

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FASHION

A Story of Her A retrospective on female strength, beauty, vulnerability and harmony 20

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INDUSTRY

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FASHION

Hair: Sheridan Ward Photography: Ssam Kim

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FASHION

“The collection is a celebration of what it is to be a woman, inspired by the iconic imagery of the 90s supermodels. It shows how hair, the crowning glory of a person, is inextricably linked to our souls and who we are.” Sheridan Ward

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FASHION

Le Femme Fatal A thought-provoking fashion story that challenges identity, who we are attracted to and embraces acceptance

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FASHION

“Now more than ever we must rise together to support the Black LGBTQIA+ community to thrive instead of survive, and allow the next generation to live in a world free of racism and judgement.” Anne Veck Hair: Anne Veck for Anne Veck Oxford, Assisted by: Sylvain Gagliardi, Make-up: Morgan Defre, Photography and styling: Magic Owen

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CAREERS

Artist

This month we caught up with Rosie Briscoe, whose passion for fashion and textiles has evolved into a career that merges the worlds of hair and art What’s your current role in hair?

I’ve recently made the decision to move from being behind the chair, to to creating content for Matrix’s online education team.

North Western Hairdresser of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards with my work colleague Brent Barlow. I love photographic work and the creativity of it.

How did you get to where you are today?

What is the greatest challenge you have faced in your career?

One of the first ever hair competitions I entered was Matrix Destination Fame and I knew then that I’d like to be an artist for the brand. Having recently gone freelance too, it means I can use my time how I wish to – so I split my time between clients and creative work. It took me years to get loyal clientele and to be able to charge what I do now. I’ve got to the point where I don’t have to be behind the chair every day. I now prioritise doing other types of creative work too.

I think lockdown has been the hardest thing to deal with so far. I had just gone freelance so unfortunately I didn’t get any government help. Instead, I used the time to upskill in hair and art making sure that, when places did open, I’d be ready. But I definitely found not being able to work in the salon a challenge, especially not having the clients to chat with. What advice would you give to people who want to get into the hair

Which do you enjoy most - working with hair or with visual art?

What is your signature hair look?

I do a lot of balayage– I love hand painted techniques! What’s your favourite Instagram account?

@alainawaller is great for fusing hair and art. @drawingcabaretcouture does fashion life drawing and amazing visual art and wigs.

I will continue to bring together the worlds of hair and art. At a recent live event with HJ and Matrix I created bespoke hair illustrations and I’d love to do more of this. Long term, who knows? I love taking my career in new directions so I will keep doing that and see where it takes me.

What would you say is your biggest achievement in your career?

It’s still got to be winning

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I think having an artistic background can really elevate you. I went to art school and it made me understand colour and form really well. I also think it’s a great direction for creatives who like being around people. I would tell anyone to train in hair and for the creative types to get into the photographic side of the industry. Competitions are a really great way to start.

What’s next for you and your career?!

I couldn’t possibly choose – one inspires the other. I love doing visual art as it’s a new chapter for me, but it’s all inspired by hair and haircare. I love colour and texture because it’s all connected – hair and fabric have very similar properties.

industry after artistic training?

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TIGI REAWAKENING

ARE YOU PART OF IT?

SOFTLY, SOFTLY

FASHION

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FASHION

My.Organics debut collection features looks that are laidback, relaxed but still totally luxurious

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FASHION

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FASHION

“With great organic powers, great responsibilities arise. The MY.ORGANICS collection strips everything right back and encourages the awakening of raw, primordial, natural beauty.” Moon Studio

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31 online @ saloninternational.co.za

Business

Do you have an

exit strategy? Every salon owner needs an exit strategy, because at some point, for whatever reason, it will be time to move on from your business, writes beauty business expert Liz McKeon. Image by OpenClipart-Vectors from Pixabay

hether you are an investor or a salon business owner, it is always crucial to think ahead. This also includes considering your exit strategy, which is a planned approach to relinquishing ownership or terminating a situation that will either maximise benefit or minimise damage. For entrepreneurs, an exit strategy refers to a strategic plan on how to sell ownership. Business owners can actually make a substantial profit if they generate a successful exit strategy. Start by assessing your personal and business goals to identify which exit strategy aligns with your future goals.

Benefits of having a strategy in place √ Planned exits are a lot more favourable than unforeseen ones. √ The longer you withhold investments, the less you’re able to contribute to retirement.

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The longer you withhold investments, the less you’re able to contribute to retirement. √ You are free to attend to any unexpected health problems without having to stress about what could happen to the salon in your absence. √ You are prepared for unexpected offers. √ If you want to move to a new business, you can sell quickly if your exit strategy is good to go. √ If you find yourself in a situation where you need to raise money quickly, an exit strategy can help. √ There will come a time when personal time takes precedence, and this will help you be prepared for that.

Business

Fundamental questions

When thinking about and planning your exit strategy, ask yourself the following two questions. 1. How am I going to get my money out of the business? 2. How much money will I get? It is advisable to plan your preferred exit strategy well in advance, as it can be a lengthy process.

Liquidation

This is the ‘close up shop and sell all the assets’ (typically at a lower cost) exit strategy. For a very small salon, especially those that are dependent on the performance of a

Sell at the right time, for the right reasons – otherwise a buyer will use your circumstances to leverage against you. single individual, liquidation is sometimes the only option, as there’s really nothing else to sell. Not to be seen as a bad option, this is a recommended strategy when the time has come to simply move on. If you choose this route, just remember that you might need to use cash to eliminate debts. It might be advisable to restructure the salon so it can be operated by somebody else – turning it into a salon for sale.

Keeping your business in the family

This is the dream of many salon owners, as keeping your business in the family ensures that your legacy lives on and provides a living for your heirs. The advantage to this is that you may be able to keep a hand in the business in an advisory capacity. However, you need to know that the family members have the required skill, interest and commitment to take over. You can mould successors over time, which will assist in seamless execution of your exit strategy.

Sell your business to manager/ employees

This is ideal, as the employee gets an established business that they are familiar with and enthusiastic about. It’s possible to arrange a long-term buyout, which can increase loyalty and greatly motivate staff to work hard to make the business succeed. Again, this arrangement may allow for you to stay on in an advisory capacity. Handled carefully, this option should have very little impact on clients.

The lifestyle company exit prioritises the profit of the owner without a clear plan for future expansion. By keeping the business expenses at a minimum, you can retain a majority of the profits rather than putting much into helping the business grow. This works best for a small business, allowing you to dissolve the company when it’s no longer turning a profit. Keep in mind that this generally only works if you have a good revenue stream.

Sell your business on the open market

This is the most popular exit strategy option for salon businesses. The business owner puts the salon up for sale for a certain price – and hopefully walks away with the amount of money they want to get for it. A profitable, well run salon should be attractive to buyers and sell quickly. Assets, database, salon name and goodwill can be incorporated when valuing the business for sale, maximising the return to the owner. However, salon businesses can be difficult to value and the selling price may be much lower than expected. If this is your preferred exit strategy, spend time grooming your salon for sale, making it as attractive as possible to potential buyers.

How to get the best price for your salon

Sell at the right time, for the right reasons – otherwise a buyer will use your circumstances to leverage against you. √ Determine what your salon is actually worth – invest in a professional valuation, while accepting that your salon is worth as much as it will fetch in the market place. √ Make sure your house is in order – people want to by a thriving salon business, not a neglected one. √ Keep all business records up to date. √ Make sure the premises is well maintained and attractive to potential buyers. Whichever exit strategy you choose, planning in advance gives you time to do it right and maximise your return on investment.

Liz McKeon is an author, business coach, trainer and mentor, specialising in salon turnaround. Email liz@lizmckeon.com

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THE CHOICES WE MAKE

PACKAGING IS 100% RECYCLABLE/ BIODEGRADABLE

Treat the hair Inoar’s revolutionary B-Perfect Treatment, developed with wheat germ oil, argan oil, shea butter, hydrolysed keratin and grape extract, strengthens the hair while adding moisture and nutrition to it at the same time. In addition, it promotes hair growth and leaves the hair shiny, frizz-free and healthy. 012 346 1721

New look Redken has relaunched its haircare range across shampoos, conditioners and treatments into new, Cradle To Cradle-certified packaging that’s recyclable and comprises at least 93% recycled plastic. 011 286 0700

All in One Leave in Conditioner Powerful repair technology The brand new Fibre Clinix range offers Schwarzkopf Professional’s most advanced and powerful repair technology; fully customisable from in the salon to the daily routine at home. Due to its powerful repair performance and fully customisable options, Fibre 021 448 8847

Silk Detangler If you have long hair, chances are you have experienced the pain and frustration of trying to comb it out. silk detangler is magic, it can smooth away your cares with the creamy texture that you can then distribute through to mid to ends that will instantly detangle the hair and blow dry afterwards. Hydrates without weighing down the hair and protects from UV rays. Suitable for all hair types. 011 305 1600

For all hair types Moroccanoil All in One Leave-in Conditioner instantly detangles and preps hair for effortless styling. This lightweight, milky formula deeply hydrates and conditions for silky, replenished hair while protecting against breakage and thermal damage. Improves manageability while nourishing and softening the hair for up to 72 hours.* 011 305 1600

Wake up to dream hair! NEW JOICO Defy Damage™ Sleepover Overnight Nourishing Treatment Rise and shine with Defy Damage Sleepover, our bedtime bond-strengthener that nourishes hair while you sleep. With a brilliant formula that fortifies bonds through the night, this no-rinse treatment delivers softer, shinier, visibly healthier hair by morning. A unique, comforting fragrance encourages relaxation, and just a few pumps before bed and come morning you’re ready to wake up and glow! 011 305 1600

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FASHION

PU NK

PROPAGANDA Based on the 80’s underground club scene, meet four individuals and their after hours’ identities

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FASHION

“I drew inspiration from the punk movement and was inspired by the identity of each of the models’ tribes – this collection is all about embracing individuality. The cuts are geometric in shape and can be worn with texture and bold colour placements.” Akin Konizi, international creative director, HOB 79 / hji.co.uk online @ saloninternational.co.za

FASHION

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FASHION

Hair: HOB Creative Team, Make-up: Komal Patel, Styling: HOB Academy, Photographs: HOB Academy

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FASHION

muse

MODERN

November Collective worked with clients, as well as models, to bring their vision of natural beauty to life

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FASHION

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FASHION Hair: Christopher Laird, Make-up: Emma Cantwell, Styling: Christopher Laird and Emma Cantwell, Photography: Vivienne Edge

“By shooting with women that we know and love, we were able to share a diverse vision of modern beauty that epitomises our brand: gorgeous, wearable hair and natural make-up that allows the individual to look and feel like the very best version of themselves.” Christopher Laird and Emma Cantwell

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INSPIRATION

Life Through a Lens

l l i G c M e i z u S

The multi-award winning hairdresser, Rainbow Room International artistic director and British Hairdressing Awards Hall of Fame member shares her seven all-time favourite images

 Mull-et over

"A mullet-inspired look with length at the back and added texture on top for lots of movement. I love that this style looks slightly ‘wet’ in appearance which gives it character. A texturising spray such as a salt spray is key to finish this kind of style."

 Black and blue

"These shades are a match made in heaven for me as they provide the ultimate mirror-like shine. With this hair look we wanted to enhance the colouring with a super sleek and short bob but we kept the hair longer at the back to create a unique, graphic shape. It really was all about the lines with this cut. We used the colour and styling to enhance the cut, but also the styling and cut really enhances the colour too. Everything works together."

 Sunshine shades

 The power pixie

 Party at the back

"It doesn’t get much better than this – a killer short crop paired with vibrant pieces of colour. We wanted the blue to stand out as much as possible on this crop and therefore teamed it with a beautiful icy grey tone and some texture."

"Taking inspiration from the firefly/wedge cut but with a more contemporary finish, this style is iconic and speaks volumes. It’s all about precision with this look to create a stunning and stand-out shape."

 Bobbing along

 Powerful pink

"It’s all about the colour with this look. Featuring beautiful pastel pink and subtle copper tones, the seamless blend gives this hair colour a rose gold and opulent finish that’s simply mesmerising. We teamed this with a statement side parting and styled with mega volume to really show off the two colours together."

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“I became a finalist for HJ’s Colour Technician of the Year category, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, for the first time with this image in 2020. I absolutely love the mix of tones, and I was planning to do something completely different, but I followed my gut and changed it to this on the day. It just proves you should always follow your instincts."

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"This textured bob is such a beautiful look that will come back in style time and time again due to its versatility. The key to this look was creating texture into the cut through layers and different lengths and enhancing this with matte styling products such as pomades to provide a matte yet messy style."

We hope that you have enjoyed this first edition of Salon International Magazine

Business Trends

We would welcome your

feedback. info@saloninternational.co.za

Plus, we would love to recieve contributions for articles to include in future issues.

If you have a collection of work that you would

like us to include, please do send that through for us to use.

Let’s show off the huge pool of talent that is

here in South Africa and show the world how inspirational we can be. info@saloninternational.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za