Salon International April 2022 by Professional Beauty SA

ro se ry

ue h

bei

p ri s

9/1

ic s el g te

capp

9/9

April 2022 | saloninternational.co.za

san

p ri s

8/9

ic b ig e g e

9/8

7/6

e hue

s of

d al m on

roa

p ri s

7/1

y vio let h

coo

pow

ic vi olet

p ri s at

9/1

8/6

7/1

6/0

ic p w de o

Business

online@saloninternational

Cover Image - Wella

A safe space Catering for autism in the salon

ro se ry

y re

ue h

capp

ic p w de o

ic s el g te

p ri s

9/1

san

9/9

ic b ig e g e

s of

al m on

8/9

p ri s

e hue

roa

7/6

9/8

p ri s

y vio let h

7/1

coo

pow

ic vi olet

p ri s at

9/1

8/6

7/1

6/0

bei

April 2022 | saloninternational.co.za

In this issue... 10257 KAD new shades SalonInt cover.indd 1

Regulars 4

Industry news Local and international news

The Big Debate In salon training?

18 Career Focus Product innovation

30 Life through a lens Anthony Grant

Business 8

Salon Design Be inspired

15 Green for good Sustainability is possible

14 Man cave Offer more in men’s grooming

Lead by example Giving your staff guidance

Treatments 10 Colour Notes Getting it right

25 The locks of love Looking after the clients wishes

25 Step by Step Bobble Balayage

Collections 28 After hours Kay Hickey, Alfa Italia art team

2022/03/30 12:49

Welcome

As I write this I am just about to return from the UK where I have been attending the Professional Beauty London Expo. It was great to be able to visit an event where there were no restrictions and feel that everything was getting back to normal. The UK vaccine numbers are much higher than ours and at the time of writing, masks were no longer compulsory, although many people still wear them. I look forward to a further relaxation in numbers as South Africa continues to return to a sense of normality. Until that time, please be assured that all events will be run according to the restrictions as they are at the time. With that in mind, we have our second event in the Big Buzz Business series of events in Cape Town and I urge all salon owners and managers to attend. Perhaps you are neither of those but have aspirations to be one of the two, then you should book your place too. Enjoy this issue of the magazine, we have some great colour tips, inspirational looks as well as some great business topics.

Phil

phil@tetradeevents.com

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg Tel: 011 781 5970

Special thanks to contributing editor Joanna Sterkowicz Cover photo Wella

online@saloninternational

News

NEWS

The hair brand founded by South African Thokozile Mangwiro, Nilotiqa Haircare, has been acquired by the Sunpac distribution company. Says Mangwiro: “Although I had another investment opportunity available, Sunpac was the type of partner that understands the business I am in. As a leading distributor of top international hair care brands, Sunpac aligns with the Nilotiqa ethos, which places a value on black female consumers and their financial restraints. “The Sunpac agreement now allows for key investments for growth. As part of the agreement, I can continue to maintain and manage the core of the Nilotiqa business and develop the range to include other personal care categories too. There is a lot to be done. All the processes for retail distribution are changing and we are upgrading our branding and labelling, but the process of formulation will not change. “I want to see Nilotiqa become a household brand and to define the luxury of what it is to be an African woman. There are competitors in this field, however my products are unique. I know what I have to offer – it is all about the customer and what they are looking for in a brand that is healthy for their hair. With Nilotiqa, each and every consumer is the influencer for this incredible brand, in each and every way.” Mangwiro’s development of the Nilotiqa organic hair treatment solution grew out of her frustrations with the hair care products on the retail shelves. She felt compelled to seek out her own organic solutions for

Salons reminded that Covid not yet defeated A press release recently published by the South African Government News Agency states: “Cabinet has reiterated that vaccination remains the best defence against the virus, and reduces the risk of serious illness, hospitalisation and death. “Although infections and deaths currently remain low in South Africa, we face a possible fifth wave in the coming weeks. The only defence we have is the scientific evidence showing the power of vaccines to save lives. Our country has already administered over 33 million doses of the COVID-19 vaccines.” Cabinet further welcomed the Code of Practice on the management of Covid-19 exposure in the workplace issued by the Department of Employment and Labour. This was developed following public consultation with the National Economic Development and Labour Council and will take effect when the National State of Disaster is lifted. The Code of Practice will guide employers and employees in conducting or updating a risk assessment plan to limit Covid-19 infections in the workplace. It lists measures such as vaccination, social distancing and personal hygiene to safeguard workspaces. (Source: SAnews.gov.za)

online@saloninternational

Thokozile Mangwiro

Sunpac acquires Nilotiqa Haircare brand

News

Lupita Nyong’o’s regal beehive slays Oscars red carpet A towering, intricately braided updo designed by Vernon Francois for Lupita Nyong’o was definitely one of the most talked about styles at the recent 94th Academy Awards (Oscars) held in Los Angeles. Francois wrote on his Instagram page (@ vernonfrancois): “Lupita’s delicate sisterlocks are

majestically swept up, handshaped and contoured with precision, for a soft yet striking final look that elongates her neckline. I used a blend of basket weaving, wefting and loc extension techniques to create an asymmetric playful structure that echoes the floral design of Lupita’s dress. The artistry creates the illusion of fluidity.” Vanessa Hudgens channeled Hollywood icon, Audrey Hepburn, with a twisted bun (and extensions) piled high on the top of her head. This is not the first time that Hudgens has opted for Hepburn-style glamour in the hair department and it suits her so well. An acknowledged red carpet style queen, ‘Dune’ and ‘Euphoria’ actress, Zendaya, wore a killer outfit as always, complemented this time by softly, swept up hair that did not hide her natural waves. (Report by Joanna Sterkowicz)

Best Hair at the Baftas Britain’s most prestigious film and television awards event, the Baftas, took place at London’s Royal Albert Hall on 13 March. Daisy Edgar Jones’ long brunette locks were styled into a gently waved half-updo, with shoulder length middle-parted bangs becomingly framing her face. The waves were particularly unstructured, for an ultra casual look. Millie Bobbie Brown had a striking if arguably unflattering do – the hair was tightly pulled back into a bun but with short curtain bangs strictly parted in the middle, so the fringe hung in two sections, on each side of her forehead. The multiple award-winning star of ‘West Side Story’, Ariana DeBose, sported an edgy look – her raven coloured hair was cut short with a single, long highlighted bang coming from an extreme side-parting and falling on one side of her face. Talking of short bangs, Jessie Buckley had an even shorter fringe, to match her ear-length 1920s type bob, modernised by messy waves. Lady Gaga’s long platinum hair was styled into Hollywood Golden Era waves that channeled Rita Hayworth. A similar look was seen on drag queen, Bimini Bon Boulash. Bond actress, Lashana Lynch, slayed the red carpet with a super short cut, comprised of little

corkscrew curls. Rebecca Hall rocked an utra-short and shaggy pixie cut. Also going the pixie route, but in a tidier version, was French actress and Bond girl, Lea Seydoux. A severe look was seen on Catriona Balfe, whose hair was slicked back into a bun with a deep sideparting. Others opting for the pulled back hair look were Daisy Ridley, Adwoa Aboah and Florence Pugh. Sienna Miller styled her hair in the iconic ‘Sienna Miller look’ that suits her Boho style so well, namely long, loose and almost un-kept looking blonde hair Lucy Boynton’s retro 1930s wavy platinum blonde bob was both ultra-glam and flattering. ‘Bridgerton’ actress, Simone Ashley, wore the ultimate in voluminous long waves. (Report by Joanna Sterkowicz)

online@saloninternational

Business

The BIG debate

Is in-salon training

more beneficial than

college education? What’s the best route to enter the profession? Two experts share their point of view

Yes

I always prefer to take on Throughout my career I have apprentices straight from delivered and received both school with no previous college and salon-based salon experience. Teaching education. For the last 13 years apprentices from scratch gives me the I have worked in colleges of further opportunity to teach how we work in the education and for a private training salon. Taking on apprentices from school provider. Personally, I see the benefits of means that they haven’t picked up any all training. bad habits. It’s a All institutions have something to offer great opportunity and it depends on the expectations and Methods and to teach them my requirements of the student. There is no techniques are ethics, how we like taking away from the valuable first-hand always changing, and the salon to run, experience that being in a salon can point of contact, bring, but in an education environment, in the salon we can meet and greet learning can be more focused and keep on top of these and then the structured. Learning within a college or and bring them in to technical side of independent training provider ensures things. Methods that all elements of the curriculum are our training and techniques covered and allows the time to work on are always changing, and in the salon fundamental skills. While some will flourish we can keep on top of these and bring within the salon environment, others may them in to our training. It’s also hugely find it overwhelming at 16. rewarding for me, as a salon owner, Colleges and training providers also to be able to train young people who have access to Learning within funds which can are new to the industry and help them succeed in their career. a college or support students Training them in a salon allows me independent training with additional to offer a more personal experience. needs and they provider ensures have the budget We can work to their strengths or weaknesses. If they are struggling with that all elements of to bring in external something, we have the flexibility to be representatives the curriculum are able to spend more time on this area to enrich the covered allowing for curriculum. Many until they feel confident. We can take the training at a pace which suits both any skills gaps colleges and the apprentice and the salon. I’ve had training providers stylists that have started with me as are now working closely with experts a Saturday assistant but being in the from the industry like ABLE, to ensure their salon environment allows them to build students receive an all-round view and up relationships with not only the salon are fully prepared for the industry. team, but also our clients and they then become an integral part of our team. SARAHSEAMAN,GENERALMANAGERATABLE

(ANDREW BARTON LONDON EDUCATION) AND ACADEMY PRINCIPAL AT WESTROW

BROOKE EVANS, BE IRONBRIDGE

online@saloninternational

Business

The perfect salon

EXPERIENCE H O W T O C R E A T E T H E U L T I M A T E V I P S PAC E In the second of our experiential design series in partnership with Takara Belmont, we look at how designing a VIP space in your salon can create a heavenly hair haven

he Daniel Galvin ethos has always had luxury at its heart, making every client feel like they are cared for within classic, contemporary and timeless spaces. Step forward its Selfridges outpost, which opened in spring 2015 and is one of four salons under the brand umbrella. No stranger to style, its design-led interior boasts a neutral colour palette with clean lines and marble finishes, while a VIP area caters for clients looking for privacy. “Our client base at Selfridges differs from our other salons in that there is a high percentage of Middle Eastern clients, which was a key consideration for us when designing the salon space, as we knew privacy, was key," says Daniel Galvin operations director,

online@saloninternational

Stephen Nurse. “We also look after celebrities and high profile clients who require confidentiality, so the space offers us a dual purpose, and really came into its own during the last two years when many clients preferred to socially distance from others.” Stephen has project managed and overseen each Daniel Galvin salon space alongside Daniel himself, and believes that creating great salon design is all about putting your clients first: “we always consider client comfort and movement. Distance between workstations is so important, for example, and everything needs to have a comfortable flow. Alongside this, it’s important to think about the longevity of your design and invest accordingly.” When it comes to colour palettes, the cool, classic and

Business

OUR CLIENT BASE AT SELFRIDGES DIFFERS FROM OUR OTHER SALONS IN THAT THERE IS A HIGH PERCENTAGE OF MIDDLE EASTERN CLIENTS, WHICH WAS A KEY CONSIDERATION FOR US WHEN DESIGNING THE SALON SPACE, AS WE KNEW PRIVACY WAS KEY

DON’T MISS… …our monthly The Perfect Salon Experience features. Each issue we look at a different aspect of salon design, from adding a spa element to your space to creating the ultimate backwash area

contemporary spaces the brand has become known for allows clients to shine brightly instead: “The colour in our salon truly comes from our clientele,” says Stephen. So why Takara Belmont? “In our opinion, it’s the best. It also represents a fantastic investment, long term, because its pieces really stand the test of time.” If you’re thinking of creating a VIP space in your salon, Stephen says it’s all about the planning: “you need to deliver on your promise of what this space offers. Is it just a separate, private room or a VIP space? If it’s the latter then focus on creating a luxury, private environment that has a point of difference from the rest of the salon.” Get it right and every client will enjoy VIP services as soon as they step into the space.

Recreate the look The Cadilla styling chair comes in three models to suit any service scenario, from styling to backwash. Based on a classic American car seat design, it boasts comfort, durability and timeless style with a gender neutral appeal. Meanwhile elevate the backwash experience with the RS Axis, which raises the bar for exemplary shampoo services; its streamlined frame creates a delicate aesthetic without compromising on comfort. In addition, its lumbar support design and deep-cushioned seat (as well as a reclining backrest and gel-filled neck rest) means every VIP client can sit back and relax in serious style. Find out more at takarahairdressing.co.uk

online@saloninternational

Inspiration

Colour NOTES Travel

Dan Spiller from Marc Antoni chats about the cyclical nature of colour trends and shares three key pieces of advice on how to find success What do you love most about being a colourist?

Art

There is nothing better than unveiling the final result to a client or model knowing you’ve brought the hair vision to life. I love the ever-evolving trends, the development of new products and being able to experiment daily.

Where do you go for colour inspiration?

Pantone

I travel regularly for education as part of the JOICO team and the Marc Antoni group which gives me the chance to embrace different places, cultures and colour palettes from the world. I also take a lot of inspiration from the fashion houses of the world, as they often push the boundaries with the patterns and colour palettes.

What are your favourite colouring techniques at the moment?

Experimentation

I love freehand work – it’s such a great way to work as a colourist. When applying freehand colour, it is so nice to be in full control of the application and the hair really is your canvas. Whether it’s freehand balayage or painted on patterns, the creativity is endless.

Are there any colouring trends you’d like to bring back? All trends come back around with new modernised versions uncovered. I’d love to see the ‘contrasting’ trend make a comeback, where we contrast lights and darks. This is already making waves in the industry and I expect it to be popular again very soon. Fashion houses

What are the challenges facing colourists right now? At the moment, the biggest challenge I would say is the ‘Instagram influence’,

online@saloninternational

where a client comes in with an image from Instagram as their reference, and it is a colour which is absolutely unachievable in one appointment. It’s our job to educate the clients, put a bespoke plan in place and help them achieve their hair goal as quickly as possible, whilst ensuring the health of the hair is kept in the best possible condition.

What do you enjoy most about your job? I love everything – from my clients, salon team and the wider JOICO team to shoots, shows and so much more. Hairdressing has provided endless opportunities and I am very fortunate to have had the chance to meet so many different people from different walks of life, share experiences with them and learn from them. Our industry is like a big family.

What advice would you give to a trainee colourist? Enjoy, experiment and educate! Being part of the colour world is so fun and it is such an enjoyable part of our industry which provides many opportunities and the chance to explore your own creativity. The hair is your canvas and you can create the most incredible work for clients and brands. It’s important to remember that the colour industry is ever-evolving. There are always new products, new techniques and new trends, and it is important to continually educate yourself so your skills are on point and services are the most up to date and revolutionary. And the last piece of advice – use your downtime to experiment! Try new techniques and embrace your own creative vision. Why not practise on doll heads until you feel super confident?

Product feature

NEW COLLECTION

Koleston

PERFECT LIGHTS

Explore Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect Lights, a new collection brought to hairdressers and salons in South Africa by Modern Hair and Beauty. The collection is designed with Wella Global Ambassadors and delivers highly visible, high definition colour, with ultraprecise, blended multi-tonal reflections. It’s perfect for grey coverage and for adding dimension to blonde. Discover two new techniques Koleston Perfect Lights glowing services that are sweeping the industry, Mirror Lights and Shadow Lights. The new services help upgrade classic grey coverage, root touch-up, and highlighting techniques and create beautiful results for your clients. Think comfortable beige, smooth vanilla, earthy cinnamon, and spiced copper tones that flatter all hair textures and skin tones... MIRROR LIGHTS GLOWING SERVICE Due to their loyalty, grey coverage clients are often referred to as the “bread and butter” of the salon colour business,

which is why a reliable colour range is imperative. Join hairdressers from all over the world in choosing easy-touse Koleston Perfect ME+ for reliability and dependability. With up to 100% grey coverage, it also allows for longer periods in between grey touch ups.

online@saloninternational

Product feature Your grey coverage clients will love the natural-looking softness of Mirror Lights. It combines grey root coverage with a darker background shade and a lighter foreground shade to create full coverage while producing a softer, blurred regrowth for easier maintenance. Lights are added to the hair through both sections for a soft transition. SHADOW LIGHTS GLOWING SERVICE

More than 50% of salon services are lightening services and each client has individual hair needs. The Shadow Lights glowing service recognises that natural colour is not one dimensional and that contrasting tones vary throughout the hair, and differently for each person. Shadow Lights upgrades classic highlights by weaving in lights in different multi tones. It achieves customised colour by working on the simple principle of weaving contrasting shades throughout the hair for a high precision, multi tonal finish with a beautiful blend. WHY KOLESTON PERFECT LIGHTS? Our dramatically different world has driven change in consumer needs and habits. Grey coverage is still the #1 salon service, but the trend is declining as more clients embrace their grey. The result is a bigger-thanever demand for highlight and

online@saloninternational

root shadow services and Koleston Perfect Lights is a direct response to this growing need. One tube of Koleston Perfect is sold every second around the world so it should come as no surprise that it is the main tool of choice for the Koleston Perfect Lights collection. Ultra-precision technology in Koleston Perfect ensures perfect results and beautiful hair that is rich and healthy-looking.

Call 0860 104 109. to find out more.

Colour

The

of LOCKS

LOVE Take your client on a hair journey It’s all about the preparation for Zoe Rees, owner of Bliss Hair Therapy, educator and digital ambassador for Eleven Australia UK: “I put a plan in place from day one. Some brides may be looking to get professional colour for the first time, and you may also have to work with previously box dyed hair,” she explains. “Take swatches of your client’s hair during the first consultation and ask them to bring photos of how they would like their hair colour to look on the big day. This allows you to manage their hair expectations.” However, when it comes to making drastic colour changes Revlon Professional global ambassador, Mark Leeson is always hesitant. “We advise all our clients not to deviate too much away from their regular colour or style. Major changes are a no-go unless it is planned well in advance.”

Manage expectations According to the team at Manic

Panic, as the expert you need to point out if the colour is plausible for the individual. “Most clients come armed with images - nine times out of ten they will need to make some sort of compromise. Be sure to have alternatives at hand when going into a consultation and discuss carefully so the bride has a full understanding.” By giving alternative options, the client is much more prepared for the final outcome. Charlotte Rowley, Redken Advocate and owner of Fusion Hair & Beauty, says the key is transparency and education – believing it's often better to under promise and over deliver. “If the client understands the limitations and what goes into the colour process then they are aware of what can be achieved during the appointment,” says Charlotte. “For example, if time isn’t on your side, I would advise a subtle addition to their existing colour to maintain the condition and achieve something they will be happy with.” Although it is positive to have

online@saloninternational

With wedding season soon upon us - after nearly two years of covid postponements - salons look set to experience the busiest pre-nuptial preparation ever. Colour is often a key focus for members of a wedding party, but how can you manage client’s expectation and achieve pictureperfect results? HJ We spoke to top colour specialists for their tips

WORDS: LAUREN EZEKIEL

Guy Kremer

visuals, Victoria Panting, Salon Success educator, says it’s worth being mindful it may not be the hair colour, but the finished photo that appeals.“A little tip I use is to ask my brides to place their thumb over the face on the photo and make sure it’s the colour they love and not the overall image - as it’s easy to get drawn into enjoying the overall look.”

Work the colour with the styling Try not to treat the hair colour as a single entity, instead ask the bride or guest about how they envisage the final look.“We consider the outfit, the head dress and veil and then build a picture of the client’s individual style,” says Mark.“We take this all into account when deciding on the colour to use as we want to ensure we create their ultimate look.” Talking through the finished look can also have an effect on the colour techniques you chose to use. “If the bride or member of the bridal party is planning a hair up, then a balayage technique is ideal as

Colour REDKEN

you’ll get to see pockets of depth coming through making the style more defined,” says Michael Convey, OSMO global ambassador. "A solid colour works well for half up/half down styles when definition is not key. A chignon works well with highlights so the detail really pops.”

piece at the front - really pops in a photograph.” For Adam Reed, L’Oréal Professionnel Paris editorial ambassador it’s all about the French Balayage, “This technique blends colour naturally from roots to ends - it can be dialled up or down so its personalised depending on the desired finish. The Parisians are known for graceful, easy-looking style and this technique reflects that as it offers luminous, healthy-looking and completely effortless looking results. Yet it takes a huge skill to blend the colour this seamlessly, something only achievable in salon with a professional.”

Ensure the hair health is optimum Getting the timing right is so important, “We always try to embark on a treatment journey six weeks before the big day as this really helps in promoting beautiful healthy hair,” says Mark. This allows you to apply any necessary treatments to the hair before applying colour and make any tweaks requested before the big day. It also gives time if the client has any old box colour that may need working through. “You need to work together, and the bride should be treating their hair at home to deep conditioning treatments like the OSMO Chromoplex regime that it strengthens and restores the hair with its Fibre Bond Technology,” says Michael Convey, OSMO global ambassador. “Regular use also further improves the condition of the hair, whilst helping to prevent future damage, so is an ideal treatment for brides with old box dye.” To ensure colour looks its best on the day encourage your client to have a salon appointment the day before. “Book a refresh toner and blow-dry the day before the wedding,” recommends Zoe. “This means colour is glossy and healthy – without looking faded or brassy. Plus, by adding this toner and blow-dry service the day before means their hair is perfectly prepped with the right foundation ready for you to style in the morning.”

“INSTEAD OF DOING GENERIC HIGHLIGHTS OR BALAYAGE, COMBINE BOTH TO ADD DEFINITION. SOFT BABY LIGHTS THROUGH THE BACK WITH MORE OF A MONEY PIECE AT THE FRONT - REALLY POPS IN A PHOTOGRAPH”

Dealing with old box colour “When working with any hair that has been previously coloured and you don't know the history, it is imperative to do a strand test before doing any further colouring,” says Brendan Palmer, NAK Educator UK. “This will allow you to assess what is possible and formulate a colour process that

will have successful results. John Spanton, Goldwell master colourist and creative director at Angelo Seminara Hair Salon agrees but also stresses the pitfalls of athome applications, “A home colour isn’t likely to be applied as evenly as a professional one, therefore ensure you strand test from various areas of the hair - it’s good to understand what you are dealing with before you jump in! By taking multiple strands and showing the client how the colour looks on the different areas can make it easier when choosing the options available.”

Mix up the techniques “Considering how the colour is going to look on camera is key,” says ASP ambassador Sheree Thompson. “For me, it's all about reflection and the correct colour placement. I particularly love the foilayage technique, with a soft root shadow and face framing to create a beautiful balance of tones, while keeping the hair looking healthy.” When it comes to placement Brooke Evan, at BE Ironbridge and Alfaparf ambassador, suggests using a combination of techniques. “Instead of doing generic highlights or balayage, combine both to add definition. Soft baby lights through the back with more of a money

online@saloninternational

Focus on the front

“Creating colour that looks good in photos, means creating colour that looks good to the naked eye too,” explains Dan Spiller, JOICO colour ambassador for Europe, UK and Ireland. “All over colour can appear dull when photographed, adding in different tones helps it pop. Add caramel slices through brunette shades or work with fine highlights to create depth on blondes.” This is why money pieces have also become a popular trend, “I am seeing many different variations of the money piece as it suits everyone,” explains Lisa Carter, The Crowning Stylist for Yellow by Alfaparf.“It's perfect for brides who want to add a pop of light around their face to flatter their updo, but don't want the upkeep or don't have the budget for full highlights.”

Tips for the bridal party Often when it comes the bridal party there may not be the same level of planning as a bride. This can often lead to a one-off appointment before the big day. Victoria recommends subtle face framing in these scenarios. “If you're on a tight schedule, add some brightness to the face and you have the option to tone it afterwards to achieve the ideal colour palette. Remember with face framing you can leave roots, allowing the eye to be drawn to the lighter areas on the face.” With wedding hair it's all about flattering and bespoke placement and making the guest feel like a VIP.

Business

Green for good

Belfast-based L'Oréal Professionnel Paris salon owner, Andrew Mulvenna made it his aim to become as sustainable as possible  Why was becoming sustainable so important to you? In a nutshell, we were passionate about reducing our carbon footprint on the planet and supporting our local community. It was important for us, as a salon, to align the beliefs and values of our clients with our own, so collectively we can make a positive impact.

on the environment and community displays to our team and clients that we care, which creates a positive cultural change. While there are initial costs involved, there are also long-term financial gains to be had in being sustainable.

 Do you have any future salon initiatives set in motion?

Our next salon initiative is to further reduce our use of plastic bottles. At present, we are outsourcing salon branded aluminium water salon owners off moving to a bottles for our team members, who can then refill sustainable business? I feel that some these bottles in the Reducing the negative impact businesses may see salon. We are also the challenge as too partnering with LOréal our business has on the big, and not realise Professional Products environment and community that small changes Division, and we have displays to our team and clients introduced Kerastase made can have a huge impact. We refillables that use 82% that we care, which creates a have introduced less plastic. Our longpositive cultural change refillable cleaning term goal is to build bottles, which are upon the successful filled weekly with eco-friendly, concentrated initiatives we have implemented, always striving products. This small change is due to reduce our to be as sustainable as we can be. plastic bottle waste by approximately 612 bottles  What would you say to a salon per year! Another great initiative is to monitor wastage within the salon – partnering up with owner that does not know where a wastage company that shares the same to start? Carrying out an assessment of your business, values as you is a great way to start to looking at product usage and wastage, can impact change. enable you to identify where you can make a  How can becoming sustainable sustainable difference. Remember change, however small, when carried out consistently can benefit your business? Reducing the negative impact our business has have a massive effect!

 What do you think puts other

online@saloninternational

Business

Cancer Care

online@saloninternational online@saloninternational

Business

Lead by Polly Rose of Grace Salon Leadership believes it takes humility, courage, kindness, human decency and openness to build a great team and salon culture I have often been intrigued by the different to get results and often under immense pressure, leadership styles that I have seen in salons. There the team delivers. However, this way of leadership is a big disparity between the styles I’ve observed leads to stress and burnout. This way of leadership and the results that they achieve. is not sustainable for the team or their leader. You have those who consider themselves There are leaders who really care for those managers, rather than leaders and do absolutely they lead. They take it upon themselves to offer that; ’manage people’. They often regard opportunities for growth and development. They themselves as being smarter than everyone can see potential in everyone. They encourage else. It’s their way or the highway! They focus on and guide all to tap into their skills. They are totally themselves and pay no attention to the team or selfless and want everyone working with them their opinions. They need to control every situation to feel fulfilled. There are many rewards when or decision. People work for leaders openly share details of They admit to feeling them, not with them. This is an the business with their team. outdated form of leadership They ask “What do you think? fearful, permitting and usually means a very high How do you see it?” before their people to feel employee turnover. they make a decision. They The opposite to this, is those vulnerable at times, too. lead with courage and an who are not comfortable in This behaviour builds open heart. They admit to a position of leadership. They feeling fearful, permitting their trust and promotes a care for their people, but people to feel vulnerable healthy salon culture at times, too. This behaviour avoid conflict. They bury their head when action needs to builds trust and promotes be taken. They are at first regarded as really nice a healthy salon culture. They offer thanks and people to work for, but resentment soon builds, rewards for good work resulting in a team who when team members see them ignoring bad feel valued. Creativity and productivity grows. behaviour, and respect is lost. Those who put their people first and connect You have those who have a good relationship and support them on all levels are the most with their people. As leaders, they meet their admired and respected. These leaders have objectives and are happy to settle for that. They the edge, creating harmony and strong team have no desire to reach for the next level or relationships. The most revered leaders are those encourage those they lead to explore their full who recognise that their behaviour can have a potential. This leads to team members never huge impact on the lives of the people they feeling fulfilled, eager to leave when a lead and on the lives of their families. better career opportunity to flourish and Our role as a leader will never be grow comes along. finished; it will constantly evolve. It is not I have come across leaders who are a destination but a journey. Take time to so driven that they never take the foot consider how you can advance your off the pedal. They set goals and aim leadership style and become the very for perfection. They push their team best you can be.

Polly Rose has been in the hairdressing industry for 35 years and now runs Grace Salon Leadership.

online@saloninternational

Careers

adventures of a

Product ALCHEMIST With his ‘no stone left unturned’ approach, Paul Windle remains at the innovative forefront of haircare products and styling

What has been your career journey so far? I started my career over 35 years ago as a barber, then became a teacher and principal at the Vidal Sassoon schools. In 1988, I established my own salon, Windle London Salon, and after building two brands in the UK, I created my own lab in the Lake District where the Windle London Salon Hairdressers and Development Chemist work together to research, formulate and make all the Windle Lab products.

Why do you think Windle Lab is so unique? We are unique because we fuse cutting-edge technology from the laboratory with over 200 years of combined experience from our Hairdressers at Windle London Salon under one roof. All products are tried and tested in the salon, on real customers - we are a team of hairdressers with our own laboratory, The Hairdressers Laboratory.

What do you love about creating products? I love the control of knowing exactly what is going into the products and what those carefully selected ingredients will do to the hair and scalp. We combine plant extracts and tea blends with science backed formulations to ensure our products feed, not coat, the hair and improve the quality of scalp health. The idea of bringing great hairdressers into a lab and saying what they want is exciting.

What makes a pro haircare line 'cult'? I have always been confused by the term “cult haircare line”. I think there are good products created by passion and products that have been created for commercial reasons. For me, commercial success should come from passion and creating something of value – maybe that's what a cult haircare brand is.

What's next for Paul Windle? So much in business is down to luck. I hope I carry on being lucky and being surrounded by amazing people. When asked for my exit plan by a potential venture capital investor, I said 'a coffin!' I ended up self financing our operation – skin in the game! That's the future.

online@saloninternational

1980

Paul began learning hairdressing

1985

Started as principal of Vidal Sassoon school

1988

Opens Windle London Salon

2022 Windle Lab launches

Colour

GOOD FOUNDATIONS for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, agrees. “I have always been aware of the impact metals in water can have on hair. Metals found in the hair fibre can interact with the oxydant in colour causing breakage and a less reliable colour result.” Therefore, to guarantee reliable colour and prevent breakage, you have to neutralise the metals before you start a chemical service. Thanks to the latest innovations, it is becoming easier to understand the damage to the hair base and how to counteract it, allowing stylists to create optimum results.

JOICO

Understanding metal levels “Coppers can be found in almost all waters. Even the cleanest, purest water from a tap will contain metals caused by pipe erosion,” explains Adam.“With every wash, copper can build up on the hair fibres. You can identify copper levels by the way it shows on your hair – blonde hair may present a green hue and darker hair can look dull in colour and lifeless.” Understanding the levels in your local salon will allow you to assess the level of effect it will have on the colour. "The levels of metal vary in hair dramatically and it total can depend on the area where you live. Every shower, swim or hair wash could be adding metals to your hair without There is no doubt when it comes absorbed, or grab unevenly.“This you realising," adds Niamh Hayden, to beautiful colour a clean base can lead to flat, dark colour patches Matrix artist ambassador.“Colourists is key to achieving successful (not true to tone), possibly quicker need to constantly be aware of the results. However, in reality this is colour fade and an uneven end type of water their salon rarely the case. Box dye, result,” explains uses and of any possible styling damage and Charlotte contaminants to prevent environmental factors Harding at any adverse outcomes such as water quality and Pulp Riot. during the colouring pollution can all impact “Whilst process,” explains Carolyn hair quality and results. breakage is the Newman, Insight UK Considering the overall worst outcome, ambassador. quality of the hair during a metals can also REVLON The harshness of water consultation is important cause uneven PROFESSIONAL REDKEN differs in every area of for every colourist, as and unreliable the UK, which is why the innovation damaged and sensitised hair can colour results,” explains Andrew Jose, behind L’Oréal Professionnel Style My result in colour penetrating too easily Revlon Professional ambassador. Hair Pro app is a fantastic tool.  into the shaft and then become overAdam Reed, editorial ambassador

When it comes to creating optimum colour, a healthy base is key. Thanks to the latest technology and understanding of how hair reacts to external factors, colourists are able to take back control like never before… By Lauren Ezekiel

online@saloninternational

Colour

It can tell you the copper know about the client’s In-salon treatments levels in your local area, hair health, this can be One of the latest in-salon treatments which then allows you to carried out by analysing is the L’Oréal Professionnel evaluate which pre-colour the client’s scalp. The Metal Detox.“This treatment is a treatments will work best. Schwarzkopf Professional gamechanger in giving the power But it is not just the Smart Lab Analyzer back to the colourist and being able salon water that can enables us to have to predict how hair will react,” says cause issues, it can be advanced technology at Adam.“The pre-treatment spray is at home too.“It is worth our fingertips which allows used to neutralise excess copper ELEVEN having a conversation us to analyse the client’s before colour is applied. Once the with your clients about copper inner hair health, including the hair hair has been coloured the Metal piping,” says Jordana Cobella for health score, colour analysis, bespoke Detox Shampoo is used to gently Wella Professionals.“As it could be treatment plans and aftercare, which remove the excess copper and worth investing in a shower head means we can create a hair journey colour. Clients can then continue to filter to minimise the risk. Secondly, plan for the client in order treat hair at home with an element called EDDF or EDTA is to achieve the most the shampoo and Metal designed to encapsulate the metals healthy results.” Detox Mask to cleanse on the hair to reduce any adverse and protect hair.” effects when colouring in the Wella Pre-colour Adam believes Professionals range. This technology prevention is key, and treatments is also present in System Colour Save If you’re aware of when used in combination Shampoo and Invigo Brilliance – so high levels of metal, or with at-home products it these are retail options for clients suspect pollution and has been found to reduce ALFAPARF living in an area with copper piping.” other environmental the damage caused by It is worth considering that it is factors could be impacting the 87 per cent.“Encouraging clients to not just the water that can have colour application it may be worth combine masks, oils and treatments an effect, according to Charlotte, mentioning a pre-appointment into their routine is the first step, “The level of metals care regime to clients. I recommend using the L’Oréal present in the hair vary “Working on a healthy, Professionnel Metal Detox Masque dependant on age and clean base is vital to and Serie Expert Absolut Repair sex of the client. The hair colour longevity,” says 10-in-1 Oil to keep hair nourished, of a younger woman Simon Tuckwell, Balmain protected and healthy in between tends to have more metal Hair UK ambassador and salon appointments.” present than more mature creative influencer.“Using woman. And men tend treatments before the Post colour procedure to have less metals within colour service means you It can be challenging to keep VISH their natural hair colour.” can work on healthy hair track of everything once you She continues,“Natural colour, such rather than trying to treat it after.” have completed such a thorough as red heads, also can contain This can be completed in the consultation, as well as pre and higher levels of metal.” salon and at home.“I find the post treatments. That’s when best way to counteract metals is management services like Vish are to use a detoxifying or Consider overall hair health beneficial to the smooth clarifying shampoo such According to Ashleigh Hodges, running of appointments. as FFØR’s Purify:ACV colourist at Davines the key is hair Vish enables you to Cleanse consistently for mapping during the consultation, record each visit without one week prior to fresh “I check the porosity, elasticity and relying on written note colour application,” says condition of hair throughout the keeping once you put Dylan McConnachie, head from the nape to the hairline, a colour plan in place. creative director D.G.M as well as through the lengths, roots, “It also ensures any Collective & FFØR brand mid lengths and ends. That way you formulations are correct, MANIC PANIC ambassador.“This is so know what formulas needs to be removing the need to important in areas with hard water applied where.” think about quantities or ratios; it or old copper pipes which can If you’ve identified it’s the porous, does all the maths for you,” explains contaminate the water.” sensitised hair shaft that could cause Timothy Howard, chief innovation Simon also stressed the the negative colour officer at Vish Colour Management. importance of closing the response you should also “So even if it’s a new client, hair cuticles the end of consider the scalp.“In my technology gives you a head start the colour service,“This salon we pride ourselves on creating beautiful colour.” It can helps to bring the pH levels on being healthy hair also help colourists understand when back down,” he explains. and scalp enthusiasts,” something goes wrong.“ And lastly, “The Balmain Hair Leave In says Stacey Whyte for if the service doesn’t go as planned, Conditioning Spray has a Schwarzkopf Professional. referencing the formula captured on pH 3.8 so is perfect to help “To create a healthy Vish could shine a light and provide SCHWARZKOPF seal in that colour.” clean base, we must a teachable moment.” PROFESSIONAL

online@saloninternational

Events

The BIG Buzz Business Conference

A must attend conference, packed full of information that can help you to grow your business, whether a beauty salon, hair salon or spa. Great speakers, great topics, a great opportunity

How big brands work in marketing and promotion Meara has worked extensively in the Middle East helping big brands to promote their products in the beauty sector. She will be showing you how you can adapt these big ideas to the promotion of your business. 10.00 Social media – get the lowdown on this ever changing marketing medium – Kelli Clifton Understanding how social media works, the pitfalls in social media marketing, and how to use an influencer. This session will offer practical advice that will help dispel some of the myths regarding social media. 10.45 Staff – how to manage, retain and recruit your team – Francisco Garcia Staff are key to any successful business and Miranda will be giving you awesome practical advice on the do’s and don’ts of managing staff. 11.45 Stay ahead of trends and create a niche experience for clients – Speaker TBC An informative session aimed at keeping you and your business at the

online@saloninternational

Monday 25th April, BLagoon Beach Hotel, Cape Town

forefront of your clients’ minds. 12.15 Lunch and meet with the exhibitors 13.30 Get motivated and get your business going – Kim Gardner Running a business can be a lonely journey; this session will help all those with their own business, or wanting to start out on their own, to get going and grow a successful business. 14.00 Keeping it green – Charne Le Roux We should all be caring more about the planet and its sustainability. There are many ways that we can all help within the beauty sector and Charne is a passionate advocate for this cause. 15.00 The 7 habits of highly effective salon and spa operators – Marisa Dimitriadis Based on the book by Steven Covey, Marisa adapts the principles of the 7 habits to reflect our industry. These habits could help you get the most out of your personal growth and that of your business.

Business

Drunkenness and Drug-induced conduct on duty Intoxication is the state in which a person’s normal capacity to act or reason is inhibited by alcohol or drugs. Generally, an intoxicated person is incapable of acting as an ordinary prudent and cautious person would act under similar conditions. The regulations issued under the Occupational Health and Safety Act, No. 85 of 1993 (OHSA) provide that an employer may not allow any person to enter or remain at the workplace if they appear to be under the influence of alcohol or drugs, or to be in possession of or partake or offer other persons intoxicating alcohol or drugs. A professional driver or an operator of machinery may not have a

concentration of alcohol in the blood of greater than 0.02 grams per 100ml (0.02%). It is recommended that employers should have clear guidelines on the issue of intoxication or drinking / taking drugs while on duty and that such guidelines (or disciplinary code) be shared with employees. Reasonable proof that an employee is drunk or likely to be under the influence of drugs can be established from eyewitness’ accounts of the employees’ behaviour and the way s/he looks and smells (bloodshot eyes, slurring words, unsteady on feet etc.) as well as from breathalyser or blood tests. While an employer cannot force an employee to take a breathalyser or blood test, should there be reasonable grounds to believe that the employee is in some way intoxicated, a refusal by

online@saloninternational

Business the employee to be tested for such may lead to a negative inference being drawn against him or her. A policy must provide for the testing for alcohol and or drugs. The employee may consent to the conducting of breathalyser or blood test in his / her contract of employment. Although a breathalyser test cannot establish precisely how much alcohol an employee has consumed, it is a reliable indicator that there is alcohol present in the employee’s system. An employer should distinguish between misconduct and incapacity. Misconduct relates to blameworthy intoxication at work which is a disciplinary matter. Regular intoxication or absence from work linked to this may be a sign of drug and/or alcohol dependency which may be treated as a form of incapacity. Intoxication whilst at work involves two types of misconduct (subject to the understanding that each workplace is different and may have different requirements): • Working whilst under the influence of alcohol or drugs; and/or • Consuming alcohol or drugs during working hours, without authorisation. Working whilst under the influence of alcohol or drugs: This offence must take place during working hours, but not necessarily on the premises. If an employee consumes alcohol/ drugs off the premises, but while on call or standby, the offence may have been committed. Consuming alcohol or drugs during working hours, without authorisation: The authority to consume alcohol/drugs during working hours can be explicit or implied. Employees who are invited by their employer to a drinks party in the mid-afternoon or if consuming alcohol during working hours is common place and no disciplinary action is taken, then employees can assume that this is allowed. “Authorised use” may also mean that an employee is taking medication containing alcohol or drugs on the advice of a doctor. However, an employee should discuss this with his or her employer and rather consider taking sick leave if the medication

online@saloninternational

has affected his/her ability to do the work. Determining the appropriate course of disciplinary action: The facts of the case and the nature of the problem influence the way in which it should be managed. An employer is also required to consider any applicable legislation, workplace code / guidelines / collective agreement that regulates conduct and incapacity matters at the workplace. It is necessary to distinguish between whether the employee is able/unable to perform his/her tasks, the nature and responsibility of the employee’s job, as well as the dangers and risk of the employee’s working environment. The degree to which the employer encourages misuse of alcohol/ drugs is an important factor in determining an appropriate sanction for alcohol or drug abuse and rehabilitation must always be considered. In situations of gross misconduct which makes the continued employment relationship intolerable, it may be appropriate to consider dismissal, provided a fair procedure has been followed. This includes allowing the employee to be represented by a co-employee or shop steward and to have a fair opportunity to respond to the allegations made against him or her. After the hearing, the employer should inform the employee of the decision. If the employee is not satisfied with the outcome of the hearing, the employer should also inform the employee of his/her right refer the matter to the National Bargaining Council for Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Skincare, and Beauty Industry.

Sustainablility

2022'S SUSTAINABLE HAIR HEROES

WORDS: REBECCA BARNES

We investigate the steps brands, stylists and salons are making to address the planet’s most pressing sustainability issues

he hairdressing industry has had plenty to think about over the past two years, thanks to a global health crisis and the complex task of ensuring business survival during lockdowns. The subject of sustainability has been bubbling away in the background, and in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic, many hair professionals are now focused on upping their game. Thanks to PPE, we’ve wised up to the impact of non-recyclable plastics, and many consumers have

adjusted their shopping habits, opting to stay local when possible over travelling further afield. One of our greatest commodities is water, and with a world shortage, this is arguably one of the most pressing issues for salons. So how exactly is the industry working towards a greener future? We spoke to three case studies (two salon owners, and one freelancer to prove that it’s not just business owners who can make a difference). And, we questioned some of the industry’s leading brands on their sustainability pledges. 

“Vish Colour Management technology has cut colour waste for hundreds of salons. We have begun expanding our partnerships to other sustainable brands and colour houses to help salons access the tools they need to reduce waste and attain their sustainability goals.” online@saloninternational

Sustainablility

“One of Justice Professional’s strongest core values is sustainability, which is why in 2022 we are taking a step forward and focusing on recycling salon waste, such as bottles and tools, as well as the hair we cut. Furthermore, our holiday packs will be made of recyclable water bottles.” CASE STUDY 1 REBECCA SEAL, OWNER, REBECCA CLAIRE SALON, WORCESTER “Our job as hairdressers involves caring for others but over time I noticed we weren’t caring for the planet. The way we deal with salon waste needs to change. The pandemic was the first time I have had more than a week off in years. Because of this, I had time to examine my business and plan how I wanted to grow and make changes. One key direction was sustainability, and I started by looking at what product brands and colour houses were offering. I came across FFØR, a British company offering cruelty free, vegan products that smell divine. It ticks all the boxes for me – cool packaging which is 100% PCR (post-consumer recycled) and luxurious but not fussy. At the backwash, I use biodegradable disposable towels from a company called Scrummi – they are affordable and so soft, and create a beautiful experience for guests. As a salon owner I avoid wasting water washing them daily or having to replace them when they are covered in bleach stains. I have also swapped my backwash heads to eco heads which saves money on water and energy, and improves water pressure. I send hair and metal waste to the Green Salon Collective for recycling – the hair is used to make hair booms which help clean oil spills from rivers and oceans. It feels great to know that they are using waste for something so good when otherwise it would go to landfill. I set

up a hydration station for guests’ water bottles and glasses, and instead of constantly buying and recycling magazines, we now have books. One major step I took a few years ago was to go paperless. I use the Fresha online booking system to send confirmations and reminders to clients; as well as saving time, it has replaced paper diaries and appointment cards. Looking ahead, I am excited to have more people joining me while continuing to make small sustainability improvements.” 

“AVEDA WAS BORN CRUELTY-FREE, NEVER TESTED ON ANIMALS. ALL PRODUCTS HAVE BEEN 100% VEGAN SINCE 2019, BUT THIS YEAR WE HAVE REFORMULATED OUR PRO COLOUR RANGE WITH SUSTAINABLY SOURCED, COLDPRESSED ORGANIC INGREDIENTS AND A 100% RECYCLED ALUMINIUM TUBE." “Sustainability is a complex subject. As brands we have to make tough but informed decisions and be honest and transparent. At KeraStraight and INNOluxe, we reduce plastic as much as possible; our bottles are 100% recycled or bioplastic. We make everything recyclable and continually review and improve.” “At Authentic Beauty Concept we’re rolling out refill bars, encouraging retail refills which helps salons work to a more circular economy. For 2022, Schwarzkopf Professional is relaunching the Bonacure range as Bonacure Clean Performance – it will be 100% vegan and with packaging made of up to 97% recycled plastic.”

"KAO SALON DIVISION IS COMMITTED TO THE CONTINUOUS IMPROVEMENT OF ITS ECOLOGICAL FOOTPRINT – BOTH AS A COMPANY AND AT SALON LEVEL. DEDICATED TO RESPONSIBLE INNOVATION, LOW IMPACT PRODUCT FORMULATIONS, SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING AND MANUFACTURING, WE ARE COMMITTED TO MEANINGFUL PARTNERSHIPS WITH SALONS, SUPPORTING THEM WITH

online@saloninternational

Sustainablility “By 2023, 30% of the Revlon portfolio will be sustainable. Our American Crew Care range is vegan, formulated with +80% naturally derived ingredients and a minimum of 80% post consumer recycled plastic. Revlons' ‘Always Connect’ initiative encourages salons to utilise a discounted service with Salon Sustainability, a company designed to help recycle wastage.”

“DAVINES, CERTIFIED B CORP SINCE 2016, EXTENDS ITS COMMITMENT TO REGENERATION BY RENEWING ITS PARTNERSHIP WITH PLASTIC BANK. THIS YEAR, FOR EVERY PRODUCT SOLD, AN EQUAL AMOUNT OF OCEAN-BOUND PLASTIC WILL BE COLLECTED.” “Paul Mitchell Clean Beauty takes a new approach to haircare, blending clean, vegan, farm-tobottle botanicals and lab-optimised ingredients that are gentle on the hair, scalp and environment.”

CASE STUDY 2 EMMA ELEY, PEOPLE MANAGER, BLUE TIT SALONS “People don’t realise that hairdressing salons are classed as having a high environmental impact due to the waste output. At Blue Tit, we are committed to creating a positive impact for our employees, clients, community and the environment. Since 2019, Blue Tit has offset 110 per cent of its yearly carbon emissions by using non-toxic Oway products contained in recyclable amber glass bottles. This has reduced over 8000 plastic bottles a year from landfills and nearly 2000 bottles from retail. The salons have also installed Oway refill stations in all salons for customers to refill their purchases to minimise waste further. Blue Tit has also reduced 1,350,000 litres of water wastage a year by using EcoHeads, biodegradable hair towels and by recycling over 95 per cent of its waste products. In our salons, we also tend

“We/Do has appointed Phoebe Dynevor as our Advocate for Positive Change. We are thrilled to welcome Phoebe to the family – she’s an authentic advocate for change who’s using her influence for good. We will invite more people to join the journey towards more responsible beauty routines and driving change.”

“YELLOW ALFAPARF PROFESSIONAL COLOUR TUBES ARE MADE WITH 100% RECYCLED POST INDUSTRIAL ALUMINIUM TO REDUCE CARBON EMISSIONS. TO LIMIT PAPER CONSUMPTION, THE BOXES ARE MADE WITH 90% RECYCLED PAPER AND THE INFORMATION LEAFLET HAS BEEN REPLACED WITH A QR CODE.”

online@saloninternational

to use recycled or upcycled materials and furnishing wherever possible. It’s small changes that add up in terms of sustainability, every little bit helps! We’ve also made an effort to partner with other B Corp or sustainable brands in our salons to offer our clients an exclusive experience. Our sustainability commitments extend through to our partners as well. For example, we have an ongoing partnership with Sapling vodka, a climate positive vodka, and serve seasonal cocktails in-store to our customers. We love highlighting and supporting other sustainable brands as we believe in supporting one another. There are loads of other partnerships and plans we’ve got in the pipeline that surround sustainability and B Corp. It is a constant work in progress, but we will never stop improving where we can.” 

“Sustainability has been at the heart of FFØR since day one and is engrained in everything we do. We are constantly looking at more effective ways to be sustainable, including working with suppliers to explore ways of increasing the percentage of PCR in packaging. One day we will only use recycled materials.”

Sustainablility “CLOUD NINE have announced a partnership with CleanHub, meaning we are now plastic responsible, protecting oceans from plastic waste. We have committed to collecting 1,000kg of plastic in 2022, working with female self-help groups in Southern India, the gateway for more than 80% of plastic in our oceans.” CASE STUDY 3 ASHLEIGH HODGES, FREELANCE STYLIST AND COLOURIST AND DAVINES AMBASSADOR “Sustainability is one of the key pillars of my business and for me personally in day to day life. There isn’t a decision I make that I don’t think about the impact it will have on our planet. Due to that thought process, I have made many changes over the years. Although as my business is freelance, this can sometimes make it both easier and harder. The spaces I work out of – The Social and Hunter Collective – align with my sustainable values and work closely with Green Salon Collective to ensure we work as zero waste as possible. I have also aligned myself with the brand Davines as their global colour ambassador for sustainability reasons; being a B Corp they put the planet first in all decisions they make. The key thing I focus on is for my business to be a circular eco system. I consider everything I buy,

including where it is from, whether it is independent, locally sourced and how much electricity and water is consumed in production. I then consider if it is reusable, to what extent I can reuse it, and finally how I can dispose of it sustainably. As I regularly work from home on Zoom classes and meetings, I have a fully renewable energy provider, Ecotricity, which is 100% vegan too. We even have a zero waste system at home – despite the fact we live in a London flat, we compost on our balcony. It is so important for us to be making these fundamental changes right now, as we have run out of time to look after the earth – now we need to save it. Our industry produces so much waste and emissions, but we really can all make changes and do our bit. “

"L’ORÉAL IS COMMITTED TO TRANSFORMING ITS ACTIVITIES TO RESPECT THE PLANET, AND WE ARE TAKING EFFORTS FURTHER THROUGH A PROGRAM CALLED “L’ORÉAL FOR THE FUTURE.” OUR COMMITMENT IS TO ENSURE THAT OUR ACTIVITIES ARE RESPECTFUL OF THE SO-CALLED “PLANETARY BOUNDARIES”, MEANING WHAT EARTH CAN WITHSTAND, AS DEFINED BY ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCE."

online@saloninternational

“At Amika, our goal in 2022 is to become cleaner and greener by producing up to 90% PCR packaging and achieving B Corp certification. We will continue to use the sustainable, fairtrade and responsibly grown superfruit sea buckthorn.”

“AT ELEVEN AUSTRALIA WE’VE MADE STEPS TO REDUCE OUR CARBON FOOTPRINT. IN 2022 WE ARE LAUNCHING PACKAGING INNOVATIONS SUCH AS OUR GENTLE CLEANSE SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER BARS WHICH ARE WRAPPED IN 100% BIODEGRADABLE PACKAGING." “With recyclable plastics, FSC certified paper packaging and solar power production with a closed water circulation system (saving four million litres of clean drinking water per year!), Balmain Hair Couture are aiming for a fully sustainable collection with ecologically responsible processes.”

“In 2022, L’Anza launched waterless haircare line T.R.U.E. Clean Shampoo, it contains 70% less water, comes in powder form, uses ocean -bound waste packaging and supports the Surfrider Foundation fighting plastic pollution.”

Fashion

AFTER

HOURS The Italian-inspired collection showcases glamourous, yet attainable looks

online@saloninternational

Fashion

HAIR: ALFA ITALIA ART TEAM (CLAIRE SEVERN, LORRAINE MATIC, SARAH DICKENSON, MICHELE BJELAN AND KAY HICKEY, PHOTOGRAPHY: GARY DIDSBURY

“With this collection we were inspired to create beautiful, everyday hair with that little something extra to give that ‘second glance wow-factor’. Whether it’s soft waves, tight bouncy curls or a glam updo – the possibilities are endless.” Kay Hickey, Alfa Italia art team

online@saloninternational

Step by Step

STEP BY STEP

BOBBLE BALAYAGE

Follow this step by step with Michael Convey, OSMO global ambassador for a speedy balayage technique

Before

After

online@saloninternational

Step by Step

THE MORE BOBBLES YOU USE THE MORE BALAYAGE YOU'LL SEE... THIS LOOK IS FOR A REFRESH, SO I'VE ADJUSTED THE AMOUNT OF BOBBLES ACCORDINGLY

Section into four quadrants plus section out the money piece area at the front.

Now apply your colour to each bobble section. I applied Blonde Elevation Premium Violet Bleach with 30 Vol and the Blue Colour Additive. If you’re not looking to saturate the hair, just paint the outside of the hair bobble area each time. Leave to process for 50 minutes.

Start by applying your foils to the money piece section at the front using three fine slices back-to-back. Apply OSMO IKON Blonde Elevation Premium Violet Bleach with 10 Vol along with a few drops of the OSMO IKON Blue Colour Additive, which will help to neutralise unwanted orange tones.

Tap on colour throughout the root areas on the four quadrant sections (where natural regrowth is) with OSMO IKON 6 Choc with 5 Vol for a demi effect.

Rinse off all the colour and give hair a light cleanse with OSMO Deep Moisture Shampoo to replenish lost moisture without adding excess weight.

Next, apply your toner. Use 3 parts of OSMO IKON 9.003 (Very Light Chocolate Blonde) with 1 part OSMO IKON 9.1 (Very Light Ash Blonde) and incorporated OSMO CHROMOPLEX™ Bond Builder #1 into the toner. Leave for 20 minutes, then lightly shampoo. After rinsing, apply a bond sealer, then rinse again.

online@saloninternational

Taking a vertical zig zag in each quadrant all the way up, tie your new sections with a bobble to keep the area tidy. Note, the more bobbles you use, the more balayage you’ll see in the finished look. This look is for refresh, so I’ve adjusted the number of bobbles accordingly.

Spritz hair with the new nourishing OSMO X.POSED Leave-In Treatment and style using the new OSMO X.POSED Blow Dry Balm to deliver body, volume, shine and hold for perfectly smooth blow dry results every time.

Fashion

Sunny side up A message of happiness,

reconnecting and letting go

online@saloninternational

Fashion

online@saloninternational

Inspiration

Life LENS THROUGH A

Luke Benson

The Alfaparf Milano creative ambassador is all about perfectly imperfect hair, here he shares his favourite images from his editorial and commercial projects

London calling

This is my favourite image from my winning London Hairdresser of The Year collection so it means so much to me. I used sepia tone, instead of black and white images.

Bossing it

Braidy bunch

I wanted to show neat, intricate braiding, and I worked with my photographer to create a desaturated tone. This was from my Afro Hairdresser of The Year collection,

Nailed it

I've shot the last six Nails Inc campaigns. It's great to work with a brand consistently as it allows me to get more involved – I now have a say in the models, the hair and the photography.

This was the main image for the Boss United advertising global campaign. To shoot with an iconic brand and to the see the images all over the world was a pinch me moment.

French affair

This was a hair story for French fashion magazine L’Officiel. The yellow background against the model's copper hair works so well. When shooting editorials you can be bolder.

online@saloninternational

Glossy posse

I was able to pull the whole team together for this campaign. I wanted a contrast between the light clothes and dark hair – it really accentuates the hair's health and shine.

Girl on film

I love this image as it reminds me of the fashion film that went alongside it. The model cut her own hair off in the film and we changed it from long and dark to a bleached bob.

Inspiration

We hope that you have enjoyed this edition of Salon International Magazine

We would welcome your

feedback. info@saloninternational.co.za

Plus, we would love to recieve contributions for articles to include in future issues.

If you have a collection of work that you would

like us to include, please do send that through for us to use.

Let’s show off the huge pool of talent that is

here in South Africa and show the world how inspirational we can be. info@saloninternational.co.za online@saloninternational

Salon International April 2022

Articles inside

Bobble Balayage