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In this issue... Welcome Regulars 4
Industry news Local and international news
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The Big Debate Do you need more than one salon?
27 Career Focus James Atkinson
28 Life through a lens Jacl Howard
Business 12 Do you really need a blog? Essential marketing advice
18 Employee or independent contractor? Great advice from EOHCB
Treatments 11 Colour Notes Getting it right
14 Cancer Caring for those affected
20 Step by step Colour treatment + video
Collections 16 Nouvelle Vague Mahogany Creative Team, french film art
24 Riot Girls Sarah Black and Adam Reed revisit punk
27 Unearthed Ken Hermes take on classic mens styles
Well, what a year it has been. Who would have thought, as we shuffled into 2021, that we would still be living under the shadow of the pandemic today. It has been a struggle, yet we have got through the lockdowns and the mutations and things will improve. I cannot urge you enough to promote vaccination to anyone who will listen and in this way help the country to move forward with its recovery. In this issue, we have some great fashion photos to inspire you. The regulars are also here, from Colour Notes to the BIG Debate. There is also some great advice on how to avoid burnout from taking on too much work at this time of year, recognising how important it is to take care of yourself and not to overdo it. In addition, we have an article to help you deal with clients suffering hair loss through cancer treatment, essential reading for all. Looking ahead to next year, we are organising a series of business conferences around the country. There will be the opportunity to hear experts share their knowledge on topics from social media to sales and staff management. Alongside these conferences will be a mini exhibition and an opportunity to engage with suppliers. Don’t miss out. We wish all our readers a happy and above all, safe, holiday season. See you next year!
Phil Special thanks to contributing editor Joanna Sterkowicz
Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg Tel: 011 781 5970
Cover photo Wella
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NEWS
NEWS Stylin’ Creative Conquerors campaign returns Hair care brand, Stylin’ Dredz, has brought back its Creative Conquerors campaign in South Africa, with a refreshed take on the movement. The campaign is aimed at identifying creative talent and amplifying their efforts on a border scale, staying true to the ‘Stylin’ Your Story’ ethos. In 2018, Stylin’ Dredz introduced a property that brought to life the brand pillars of living authentically and unconventionally through a campaign known as the Creative Conquerors. The six, hand-picked creative entrepreneurs showcased their various journeys as those who crafted careers defying the odds of convention and making a name for themselves in their industries. From art showcases to fashion and music, Creative Conquerors is all about creative expression and the opportunity to thrive in one’s authenticity. Having worked with names such as Lufuno Sathekge, Lady X, Oscar Ncube, Doowap, David Tshabalala and Leeroy Jason in 2018, as well as Karabo Poppy, Big Zulu, Nikiwe Dlova, Max Mogale, Boipelo Khunou, Enhle Gebashe and Charly Focalistic Makwanya in 2019, the collective has become a badge of honour in the creative fraternity. Leading the Creative Conquerors pack as a true creative and storyteller through music, fashion and lifestyle, is music sensation Focalistic. Affectionately known as Pitori Maradona, Focalistic is an accurate representation of Pitori (i.e. Preotria) flair – the capital city that is deemed by its residents as a flamboyant locale with its own personality and culture, which sets it apart from the rest of the country. Focalistic is known for his lyrical swag, style and brilliant creativity. “The crew of Conquerors are trailblazers in the space of creativity and digital creation, and we will be on the hunt to locate these new breed entrepreneurs,” says the Stylin’ Dredz team.
Ingredient found in broccoli and cauliflower may prevent hair loss In a new study, Korean scientists suggest that sulforaphane, an organic compound present in cauliflower and broccoli, could help prevent hair loss and even promote hair growth. Premium Beauty News reports that according to the study, sulforaphane could not only become an unmissable ingredient in hair care cosmetics, but even an alternative pharmacological treatment for androgenetic alopecia (i.e. hair loss and baldness). The study was conducted by a team of scientists from South Korean company Gragem Co. Ltd. in conjunction with the Department of Biotechnology at The University of Suwon. Published in the journal, Cosmetics, the results of the study showed that the organic compound present in broccoli and cauliflower induced an increase of nearly 7% in the number of hairs in participants suffering from androgenetic alopecia. Prior to embarking on the study, the scientists had previously gleaned that sulforaphane increased the expression of the enzyme that breaks down dihydrotestosterone (DHT), the hormone implicated in hair loss, thereby helping to inhibit hair loss in the animal model.
The British Hairdressing Awards 2021 Monday 29 November, HJ announced the British Hairdressing Awards sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional 2021 winners in London. Held in-person for the first time since 2019, the British Hairdressing Awards saw the industry’s biggest names back together again to celebrate those who excelled in the past year. Guests were treated to a performance by Tony Hadley and live shows from the British nominees showcasing incredible hair artistry on the night. For full details visit https://www.hji.co.uk/latest/british-hairdressing-awards-sponsored-byschwarzkopf-professional-2021-winners-announced/
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Business
The BIG debate
Do you need more than one salon to be
successful?
Do more salons equal more success? Two experts weigh in
No
Yes We had been open for about three years when we first thought about expanding the business. With the success of the first salon, our intention was to further our reach further afield. We found that a lot of clients were travelling to our salon and so by opening another “You can appeal venue we were able to appeal to a to a wider wider demographic. demographic” The new salon in Wimbledon was originally intended to be run as a completely separate entity, but it has become more like a sister to the original salon. Lots of clients will come to both salons when their desired stylist is there. We found giving the staff an opportunity “I’m to build a column in both sites was beneficial as they found that they could build a loyal clientele quicker. It's great to see the growth not only in the financial aspects but in your employees too. If someone is thinking of expanding, be sure that you are able to properly split yourself between the two businesses or have someone who can. Remember, one is an established business and one is new, so comparing them to each other isn’t always a good thing. New businesses need time to get established and need to be nurtured. Don’t dilute your product, add to it. The new site should be an enhancement of your successful business, if it is only going to bring stress it will only serve to disrupt the already successful product you have.
I’ve gone from having one salon to three, back to one again and I am more successful and less stressed with just one. I opened my first salon in the late 1990s, in a central location. The business grew quickly and I decided to open another shop on the other side of town, which I staffed using the team on a rotation basis. The business was doing well and when a unit became available in another town, I opened a third site. This is the point where I realised that I couldn’t be in three places at once. I couldn’t find the right people to work in this third site, so I staffed the salon with the Northampton team. I worked in each salon two days a week and every day presented further challenges. With every salon I more successful worked in, I would with one salon” build the team’s enthusiasm, iron out problems and would leave that location feeling I had cracked it, until I returned the following week to sort out the same issues again. I was then offered a unit that was larger than any of the sites I had at the same time as the leases on the three sites were coming up for renewal. I decided it would be easier to consolidate the three sites into one central location. It was the best move I could have made. I wouldn’t rule out opening another salon, but you need to ensure that you have the right team, training procedures and a manager who has an invested interest in the business.
ROBERT KIRBY, OWNER OF ROBERT KIRBY
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CHRISTIAN WILES, MATRIX ARTIST AMBASSADOR AND OWNER OF CHRISTIAN WILES,
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Don’t get burned out this Christmas Season With the Christmas period upon us, this month already seems to be crazy busy for many stylists who are squeezing in as many clients as they can, working longer hours and taking fewer breaks. But while the financial return may be great to see, your mental and physical health can take a battering. Matrix artist ambassador, Ria Kulik, believes it’s important to recognise the symptoms of burnout before it’s too late – both in yourself and your team. “I start to notice when the smallest of things are making a person really stressed, when you start clock watching to see how long it is until your next sleep, then sleeping but waking up just as exhausted, feeling like you have lost touch with friends and family, like you are on a relentless hamster wheel, wondering when you will enjoy your job again, finding that others are irritating you more,” she explains. “Even though you should say no, you just say yes to everything, and throw yourself into more work to try and regain the spark for the job. I’ve been there before myself when you feel like your brain is completely full, it feels like it’s about to burst, and it can’t cope with any more questions from people, problem-solving or decisions to make other than the task at hand at that particular moment in time.That’s the point I can tell when someone needs a little reassuring and possibly a hug that things will be OK. Ria says there are five steps to take to avoid feeling overwhelmed:
1. Self-care You are the priority. If you care for yourself first, then you will be able to care for your clients better. If you think you are burnt out, then today is the day you put yourself first. 2. Set professional boundaries Mainly the hours you work. Pick how many hours you are going to work and stick to them, you can’t be accommodating to everyone, and it will encourage clients to become more organised in the future which will help you feel organised in your dayto-day. Stay away from doing ‘favours’ by coming in early or staying late for people. Protect yourself and ask them to find another appointment that suits them. 3.Turn that phone off Another big one for people is being contacted by clients at any time of the day and night. With social media and email being a massive part of how clients contact you, only contact
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clients during your working hours. Or set aside time in a day to get back to those clients. A polite, automated message explaining this goes a long way; people understand and it takes a massive pressure off you. 4. Enjoy the little things in life Make sure you have booked some real downtime away from work. Whether it is seeing friends and family or going to your favourite spa for the day, put that phone in aeroplane mode and allow yourself to enjoy life. 5 Plan to invest in yourself and your skills. Taking a day away from the grind and educating yourself is a great way of boosting yourself up and is a great way to meet others in the same position. Don’t forget to look out for your staff too! Ria describes the symptoms to look out for in your team: 1. Exhaustion, no matter how much online@saloninternational
time you give yourself to relax, you don’t/can’t relax. 2. Feeling overwhelmed.The little things start becoming big problems for you to handle. 3. No balance between work and life. 4. Feeling very Stressed. 5. Sometimes can feel anxious and suffer more with controlling your mental health. 6. Becoming resentful of your job. Loss of enthusiasm
Trends Business TRENDS
Trends, trends, trends
Sophia Hilton
Trend#1 Avant Garde
Keep on top of the latest trends with these hot hair looks fresh from the live stages at Salon International
Hooker & Young
Was it just us or has the pandemic made everyone think bigger, better and more avant garde?
Trend#2 Fringe Festival
Trend#1
From micro to maxi, fringes were all over the HJ stage
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TONI&GUY
Paul Stafford
hob academy
Trend#3 Natural Texutre
It’s a joy to see natural texture being celebrated and emphasised
Phil Smith England
Adam Reed
HAIR RAISERS The HJ Stage didn’t disappoint when it came to must-have styles
Larry King and Dylan Bradshaw Michelle Thompson
hji.co.uk online@saloninternational
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Business Trends
TRENDS
COLOUR EXTRAVAGANZA The hues, shades and techniques from the first-ever Colour Stage were seriously inspiring
Trend#2 Colour pops From cheeky fringe accents to vivid applications, the hues were popping
Trend#1 70s luxe
High glamour and Farrah Fawcett vibes
Palmer Fisher London
Jordanna Cobella
Trend#3 Game of two halves
Why choose one colour look for your clients when you can incorporate two?
Clayde Baumann
Jaymz Marsters
5 FELLOWSHIP FAVOURITES
Ben Russell Becky Sutherland, Pink Lemon Hair
The looks we loved on the Fellowship for British Hairdressing Stage
Brooks & Brooks
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Hairdotcom Art Team
James Earnshaw
Russell Eaton Artistic Team
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Tom Connell
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Business Trends
TRENDS
GROOMING GOALS Looks from the Modern Barber Stage encompassed traditional and modern barbering styles
Trend#1 Intricate Patterns
It wouldn’t be a barbering stage without some clever clipper work…
JJ Savani and Samuel Francis
Lions Barber Collective
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Trend#2 Mullet Madness
Hayden Cassidy
The influence of the mullet is here to stay in men’s grooming
Trend#3 Retro
From the 50s to the 90s, past decades are dictating current trends
Off-Cut Barbers
Cresswell Barber Co
Manifesto Kevin Luchmun Frank Rimer
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Business
Love CONQUERS all A salon defined by love is far stronger than a salon defined by fear, writes Grace Salon Leadership founder Polly Rose
I accidentally fell into the hairdressing industry over 35 years ago, an industry I loved from day one and an industry I am still very proud to be a part of. However, all those years ago, I was struck by the hard-hearted and often unsympathetic practices of many salon owners/managers. Because of this behaviour, staff turnover was high and salon leaders lived with the threat of people leaving. Growing up, my parents taught me that for people to give their best you had to be kind, empathetic and show respect. So I found the behaviour by salon owners/managers confusing. When I was 20, my then boyfriend (now my husband) bought his first salon and we were thrown into salon leadership. It was not in either of our natures to be anything other than kind and to encourage. On occasions, we did doubt our leadership style; we were in the minority and were often told by other salon owners: “You’re too softyou need to get tougher”. But we could see this ruthless behaviour towards staff didn’t work and it was easy to see why! Another aspect of salon owners/managers behaviour that we failed to comprehend was the dislike and contempt they held for other salon owners, particularly in their own neighbourhood. They saw them as a threat and treated them so. To us, this seemed bizarre because being openly disrespectful to other salons didn’t reflect badly on
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the other salons, but on them. They were doing far more harm to their own business, in turn, making the other salon look holier than thou! So, we continued in the way that felt right to us. We have had to make some tough team decisions and to do this we had to grow a backbone: a backbone that demonstrated to our team that our kindness was not to be manipulated or exploited. Leading with kindness is still seen as a weakness by some, but by others it is now being recognised as a great leadership strength. It is a big part of what Mary Portas calls ‘the kindness economy’. She explains, “It’s going to be about care, respect, and understanding the implications of what we are doing.” Thankfully, there are now many shining examples of salon leaders who are lifting others as they climb, who lead with empathy, truth, authenticity, respect and empower those around them to achieve their dreams. They have built strong salon cultures which is imperative to their salon’s success, where nobody wants to leave. They are a fine example of great salon leadership. But all too often, we still hear stories of individuals, not just assistants but stylists too, being treated unfairly. As an industry, we cannot and should not ignore it. We must continue to discuss, inform and educate. Let’s collectively make #kindnessinhairdressing a hot topic.
POLLY’S #KINDNESSINHAIRDRESSING TOP TIPS It takes a strong and thoughtful person to lead consciously. Instead of trying to ‘get’ the best from your employees, inspire employees to ‘give’ their best.
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The emotional health and happiness of your individual team members is paramount. It leads to increased loyalty, engagement and service, resulting in bigger growth for the salon.
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Polly Rose has been in the industry for 35 years and has always led with kindess, she now runs Grace Salon Leadership.
Inspiration
Colour NOTES 70s burnt orange and mustard tones
The group colour educator of Bad Apple, Rita Benedetto, shares her love of the 70s and finds 00s Lindsey Lohan inspiring What do you love most about being a colourist? Colour is so intrinsic to style — it can communicate so many things about an individual. It conveys mood, personality, emotion, identity and self-expression. I find it a joy to turn a vision into a reality!
70s fashion
Where do you go for your colour inspiration?
Double
trouble
!
I try to get my inspiration from traditional media — sometimes social media can become an echo chamber of the same looks, because they use algorithms to show you content you already like. Instead, I look to music, cinema and interior design to see where the trends begin. I truly believe innovation starts with our more traditional mediums before our Instagram Explore page. Over the past five years, trends in TV, decor and cinema have been all about the 70s. Currently this is all shifting towards the 90s and 00s with things like neon lights, wicker furniture, hundreds of houseplants and even a remake of The Matrix on the horizon.
What are your favourite colouring techniques? Wicker furniture
I love precise placements – from a perfectly painted money piece to a whole under panel of lilac to pop against glossy dark hair!
Are there any colouring trends you’d like to bring back? Bold and defined highlights! They're reminiscent of celebrities like Nicole Ritchie, JoJo and Lindsay Lohan in the 00s. If you want to try a bolder Y2K look I suggest grounding and shadowing the roots to keep a seamless blend while still creating an intense colour effect.
What are the challenges facing colourists right now? Now more than ever clients are interested in aftercare, the impact of the service
on their hair’s health, and impact on the environment, while also expecting a flawless customer service experience. It’s important to stay knowledgeable of the entire aspect of the service, from knowing what active ingredients set your colour apart to why you chose a semi-permanent colour over a permanent colour.
What’s been your most memorable consultation? A regular client broke down and confessed she had just been diagnosed with cancer and was preparing to begin her chemotherapy treatments. She had always dreamt of trying the ‘unicorn hair’ trend but never felt brave enough. We lifted and tinted her hair all shades of lilac purple, blue lavender, pastel pink and mint green before we inevitably went short for her chemo sessions. It was a super emotional time for both of us, because it made me realise how important our hair is on our psyche. Years later, I’m happy to say she is in now in remission.
What colour creation makes you most proud? The colour creation I’m most proud of is a double petal pink melt (pictured left). One of my favourite clients are twins who love coming in together for their hair. Everyone knows how hard it is to formulate pastel fashions colours… but to replicate that on another head of hair exactly the same is even more difficult— but super fun!
What advice would you give to a trainee colourist? Don’t get stuck into the social media recycle. Reach deep and look at classic techniques, you need to know the rules to break them and classic techniques will give you a strong foundation. This industry surprises me and humbles me on a regular basis. Nobody can know everything and techniques evolve and change so often you will never be bored.
Lindsay Lohan online@saloninternational
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Business
Do you really need a blog? Business consultant Phil Jackson from Build Your Salon, weighs up whether a blog is an asset to your business Do you have a salon blog? If you do, have you First, a blog is a great tool for positioning you as thought hard about why you have one? Blogging a professional in a particular field. I've said for a can be hard work and there is nothing more long time that salons that offer a bit of everything depressing than a blog that hasn't been updated are severely restricting their growth - it’s been said for a long time. Keeping on top of regular content a lot that ‘there are riches in the niches' - and is a discipline. To be honest, I’m not always having a targeted blog can help you cement convinced it's a necessary part of your position as the expert. your salon’s ongoing marketing Second, it gives you It’s been said a lot strategy either. Hear me out… something to talk about on that ‘there are riches Ultimately it depends how you social media! You can send in the niches' - and people to your blog (called get your new customers (which means you should probably having very targeted ‘driving traffic’) from social figure out exactly how you get media platforms by sharing your blog information new customers - there may be blog link and getting in front of can really help you people who might be interested some surprises there!) If you only ever get new clients through cement your position either on your page, in groups word of mouth or through you or through paid-for ads. And as the expert. social media, spending a lot of because of the way social time writing a blog is probably media platforms choose how a not wise. But if your website is a source of clients post is shown, you can share the same blog with and appearing high in Google searches is a new snippet throughout the year (as long as the important, a blog can be a great boost to your content is 'evergreen' eg. it doesn’t date). marketing – because Google loves high quality, Third (and for pros only), you can retarget relevant and up-to-date content. It gives search blog readers with ads on YouTube, Facebook engines something to index so that you appear or Instagram. Basically, when someone reads higher in relevant searches. a blog on your website on a particular topic, You can, of course, blog just for the pleasure you can have them pick up a piece of tracking of it – and it’s rare that a blog is actually harmful. code which then means they see an ad for your There are a few more good reasons for blogging relevant services on that topic next time they go which some salon owners miss, though. to social media. Clever, huh?
3 REASONS TO GET A BLOG ON YOUR WEBSITE
1 2 3
Shows your expertise in a particular field
Gives you something to talk about on social media
Allows you to retarget blog readers with ads
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3 REASONS NOT TO GET A BLOG
1 2 3
It can be time consuming You get clients through word of mouth referalls If you don't have content, a sparse blog looks worse than no blog at all!
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Phil Jackson is an international business coach with 20 years experience in the industry.He strives to offer a unique perspective on salon ownership.
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Cancer Care
CARING
FOR CLIENTS WITH CANCER In light of the recent Breast Cancer Awareness Month, the experts share how to support clients and their hair during cancer
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What causes hair loss during cancer treatment? “Hair loss is a secondary effect of chemotherapy, targeted therapy, radiation therapy, or a stem cell (bone marrow) transplant,” says Nioxin trichologist Mark Blake. “However, hair loss is different for everyone, and they might only lose sections of it.” Depending on the treatment, clients can experience differing changes to their hair. • Chemotherapy “Not all chemotherapy causes hair loss, but some chemotherapy drugs are more likely to cause hair loss or thinning,” says Mark. • Radiation therapy Radiation therapy only affects the hair where the radiation is aimed. “Hair loss with this type of treatment depends on the strength of the dose and the method of radiation therapy,” says Mark. “When very high doses of radiation therapy are used, the hair may never grow back.” • Targeted therapy “Cancer medications called targeted therapy do not cause
complete hair loss. But some targeted therapies may cause hair to become thinner, curlier, or drier than usual,” explains Mark. • Hormonal therapy “Hormonal therapy doesn’t always cause complete hair loss,” says Mark. “Sometimes it may cause a patient’s hair just to get thinner over a period of months to years after starting treatment.”
When can hair loss be expected? “Hair loss usually begins 10 to 14 days after the first treatment and it is common for the scalp to feel sore and tender around the time of initial hair loss,” says Jasmin Julia Gupta, founder of the charity service Cancer Hair Care. Cutting hair short can alleviate discomfort and some clients may prefer to cut their hair shorter as their treatment commences. “Advise on a shorter hairstyle as any hair loss will look less dramatic, also when the hair starts to regrow it will take less time to get the client’s hairstyle back,” advises Mark. “If your client wants their hair shaved when their hair starts to
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Cancer Care fall out, offer to do this as I don’t think their partner should do this as it’s just too emotional for a loved one,” he adds. It can also be beneficial if the client can have scalp cooling during their treatment, which can help keep around 50% of their hair, says
“Remember hair loss from cancer treatment can be a very emotional time that affects the client’s quality of life and self-image,” Mark. “Scalp cooling is not always appropriate so the client’s oncologist will advise on its suitability. However, it isn’t always offered even when it can be used,” he says.
How long does it take for hair to grow back? “On average, hair begins to grow back post-chemotherapy treatment between 0-3 months,” says Jasmin. “A lot of people notice that their new hair grows back curly – or in 'chemo curls'. This is thought to be because the hair follicle can slightly collapse during hair loss so, when it reforms, the hair follicle can take on
a new shape, becoming a different hair texture,” she says. “With external beam radiotherapy to the scalp area, it can take up to three times as long for the hair follicle to recover, so clients are looking at between 0-9 month for new hair growth and there could be permanent hair loss.” Hair can also grow back drier, thinner, coarser, curlier, or even a different colour and texture.
How you can offer compassionate support “Remember hair loss from cancer treatment can be a very emotional time that affects the client’s quality of life and self-image,” says Mark. Upskilling by taking a dedicated course can help you to feel more confident. Cancer Hair Care has launched its Independent Hairdressing Practitioner Course. “We've combined our charity's expertise with these innate hairdressing skills to compassionately upskill attendees to become confidently caring to clients during their cancer treatment,” says Jasmin. Keep communication open and try to be flexible of when and where you see your client, says Zoë Irwin, ghd brand ambassador. “They may not feel comfortable coming into the salon when it’s very busy, so think about using a private space or providing special appointments out of hours,” she says.
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STYLING TIPS
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RECOMMEND ACCESSORIES “Accessories are also a great way to dress up hair as it grows out, and they’re really on-trend. There are lots of fantastic hairbands available and I love silk scarves which are extremely gentle on the hair and very stylish,” says Zoë.
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REDUCE HEAT “When it comes to styling, turn the heat of the hairdryer down to medium,” recommends Zoë. “Warm the hair gently to style, then use the cold shot to set it. If you’re using a brush, make sure it’s a gentle bristle brush,” she says.
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STYLE WITH CONDITIONER Your client may find serums or oils too heavy. “Conditioner can be used as a styling product and a little bit of product can create texture and calm unruly hair – even if it is very short,” says Jasmin. “A lightweight conditioner is a good option for new hair and especially for curls, dry and Afro hair. It provides a great extra protective layer for new hair as well as gentle moisture.”
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Fashion
NOUVELLE VAGUE Inspired by the French film art movement Nouvelle Vague, this collection is stylish and chic 16
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HAIR: MAHOGANY HAIRDRESSING CREATIVE TEAM, MAKE-UP: ROSE REDRUB, JEWELLERY: @DIRTYFRENCHGIRL PHOTOGRAPHY: JOEL O’NEIL
Fashion
“The Nouvelle Vague movement was characterised by its rejection of traditional filmmaking in favour of experimental, visual style.” Colin Greaney, Mahogany international creative director
The Mahogany Creative Team presented their Nouvelle Vague collection live at Salon International, demonstrating the paramount classic cutting and colouring techniques fused with an exploratory blend of invisible disconnection, internal texturising and colour saturation where tones clash, yet still mutually correlate.
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Business Business
Employee or Independent ConTRACTOR
The contract of employment The protection provided by our employment law legislation extends to ‘employees’. There are exceptions to this as will be discussed below. A distinction is drawn between employees and so-called independent contractors (known in our industry as legal owners/rent-a-chairs). In general terms the independent contractor is paid to render a particular result; is not subject to the control or direction of the client; may get someone else to do some of the work and is not part of the client’s organisation. In essence, the independent contractor is doing the work as part of his or her own business. The contract of employment is usually the starting point in the employment relationship. However, judgments indicate that the focus in determining whether a person is an employee or not, is more on the nature of the relationship rather than the wording of a contract. The written contract is one of the factors to consider and has more significance for those who earn
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is usually the starting point in the employment relationship.
above the threshold as set out in section 6 of the Basic Conditions of Employment Act (BCEA) 75 of 1997 (2021 threshold – R211 596.30 per annum). Job applicants who believe they have been subjected to unfair discrimination by their prospective employers, have the same rights as employees under the prohibition of unfair discrimination provisions of the Employment Equity Act 55 of 1998. The National Minimum, Wage Act, 2018, defines a “worker” to be “Any person who works for another and who receives, or is entitled to receive, any payment for that work whether in money or in kind” (excludes a volunteer).
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Business These workers (and employees who earn below the BCEA threshold) are entitled to be paid a wage that is no less than the national minimum wage and to a daily wage payment whereby if they work for less than four hours a day on any day, they must be paid for four hours work on that day.
Not all employees are the same. For example, an employment relationship may be on a casual, temporary or permanent basis. These terms mean nothing when it comes to determining whether a person is an employee for the purposes of labour legislation, but rather illustrate that employment comes in many different forms. A fixed-term contract employee is someone who is employed for a fixed time period or for a specific task only – once that task is completed, the employment relationship ends. Such contracts must be in writing and are subject to certain conditions as per section 198B of the Labour Relations Act (LRA) 66 of 1995. A part-time employee is an employee who is remunerated wholly or partly by reference to the time that the employee works and who works fewer hours than a comparable full-time employee. It is important to observe the definition of a part-time employee as
Not all employees are the same. For example, an employment relationship may be on a casual, temporary or permanent basis. prescribed and contained in the Main Collective Agreement of the National Bargaining Council for Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Skincare, and Beauty Industry. A full-time permanent employee is someone who is employed with the intention of there being an ongoing employment relationship, or in other words, for an indefinite period. This permanent, ongoing relationship may be full-time or part-time. Some full-time employees do not work the same amount of hours as their colleagues (e.g. half-day contracts) and are remunerated wholly or partly by reference to the hours that they work. Section 200A of the LRA (and section 83A of the BCEA) includes a rebuttable presumption relating to the existence of an employment relationship for employees earning below the BCEA threshold. The LRA, as amended, states
until the contrary is proved, for the purposes of this Act, any employment law and section 98A of the Insolvency Act, 1936 (Act No. 24 of 1936), a person who works for, or renders services to, any other person is presumed, regardless of the form of the contract, to be an employee, if any one or more of the following factors are present: • The manner in which the person works is subject to the control or direction of another person; • The person’s hours of work are subject to the control or direction of another person; • In the case of a person who works for an organisation, the person forms part of that organisation; • The person has worked for that other person for an average of at least 40 hours per month over the last three months; • The person is economically dependent on the other person for whom he or she renders services; • The person is provided with tools of trade or work equipment by the other person; or • The person only works for or renders services to one person. It is important to remember that the presence of the above-mentioned criteria means that employment is presumed, unless the contrary is proved. The obligation to prove that the relationship was not one of employment then falls on the employer. Persons earning above the threshold will need to prove that there is an employment relationship. Regardless of who has to prove whether there is or is not an employment relationship, it will be done with reference to the criteria set out in the presumption or any other relevant factors. The courts have recently indicated that the most important factors are: • Whether the person forms part of the organisation where he or she renders services: that would be indicated by things such as whether the person has an office or uses the organisation’s resources or is a member of the pension or provident fund or wears the organisation’s uniform, etc.
• Whether the person is economically dependent on the other person that would be indicated by the extent to which the person does work for other people or is allowed to do work for other people, etc. • Whether the person is subject to the direction and control of the other person: that would be indicated by the other person having the right (whether they actually do so or not) to dictate to the person how, when, where and for how long to work.
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Inspiration
HJ FASHION
STEP BY STEP ROSE GOLD STANDARD Sarah Black shows us how to recreate this gorgeous pink-hued tone, courtesy of Pulp Riot
Before
THE COLOUR STEP BY STEP
1
Take sections to isolate the top of the head from the undercut. This technique will keep depth through the underneath and root area with a lighter veil of colour through the surface.
2
3
4
Place Pulp Riot Liquid Demi on the underneath sections roots to ends. Formula: 40gms -44 liquid demi mixed 1:1 with Liquid demi developer 6.7 Vol. What’s great is that the Pulp Riot liquid demi has a dripless consistency, perfect for modern techniques like this.
After
100
Apply Liquid Demi to the roots 20gms 7-4 mixed with liquid demi developer for 20 mins mixed 1:1 with Liquid demi developer 6.7 Vol.
20
Use the same mixture as above (20gms 7-4 mixed processed for 20 mins mixed 1:1 with Liquid demi developer 6.7 Vol) and firstly apply to the root area. Then place Rose Gold High Speed Toner on to the mid lengths and ends to create an ombre effect. (20gms of rose gold high speed toner + 6 vol 1:2). Process for 30 minutes.
"I LOVE THIS SHADE BECAUSE ALTHOUGH IT IS A VIVID COLOUR, IT HAS A SOFTNESS TO IT AND IT'S REALLY WEARABLE FOR MOST CLIENTS."
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SARAH BLACK, ADAM REED LONDON
SMARTPRO'S FAR-UVC LIGHT SHEDDING NEW LIGHT ON BEATING AIRBORNE DISEASES!
Business
Create a COVID-19 ‘safe zone’ in your office and workplace. Does not penetrate the skin or the eyes Filtered FAR UVC ( 222nm) does not penetrate the skin or eyes making it safe to use in occupied spaces. Far-UVC light kills all dangerousPB pathogens, not just covid 19, but all viruses, bacteria, and mould.
Far-UVC Light is an autonomous and continuous sanitation system that is safe for humans and animals – using 222nanometer wavelength, and is also maintenance free. Together with the two primary methods for minimizing exposure to airborne diseases (including COVID-19) – wearing a mask and social distancing, Far-UVC has been proven to effectively sanitize the indoor air around us. Far-UVC can be widely applied to safeguard populated spaces such as shopping centres, restaurants, salons, hospitals, schools, offices, public transport systems and gyms. Tested by CSIR against SARS-COV-2 and proven effective in destroying the virus. info@smartpros.co.za www.smartpros.co.za online@saloninternational
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Professional Beauty is BACK in 2022
Colour Correction
Register now for the BIG buzz business Expo and Conference at Gallagher Convention Centre 27-28 March 2022
Strictly for the trade professional, salon owners, managers and industry professionals.
Skin care, nails, lashes and brows, aesthetic equipment, salon equipment and furniture, waxing products. So much to see and do, a fully packed conference programme to include business, spa, aesthetics and innovation, R150 per half day, more details to be announced soon.
Register now Put the dates in your diary Watch this space for more information
22
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Careers
adventures of a
Hair YouTuber 2005 We spoke to the new JOICO European Colour Design Team member James Atkinson about his diverse career history, which includes YouTube, golf and education
What was your journey into the industry? Following a career as an international golfer, I fell into hairdressing and knew I had found a true passion. After my training, I worked with one of the largest UK salon groups, honing my skills and developing my knowledge. I quickly rose through the ranks, started working on shows and presenting educational seminars, which was incredible.
How did a background in international golf shape your hairdressing career? It proved hard work pays off, gave me a strong work ethic and made me realise if you fully dedicate yourself to something you can succeed.
What drew you to creating a YouTube account centered on hair? I started my YouTube channel because Instagram reduced the length of videos you could share to one minute and I was filming longer tutorials, which I personally believe is of much higher value. Short clips of brief tips and tricks definitely have an audience and they can be very successful on platforms such as TikTok and Instagram, but for me it was about giving a deeper understanding through in-depth educational videos.
What advice would you give to those starting a hair channel on YouTube? Start on your mobile phone, buy yourself a lavalier microphone and tripod – then just do it! There is no time like now to get started and the rewards can be enormous.
What does being part of the JOICO European Colour Design Team mean to you? It allows me to work with people who see, appreciate and share my vision for digital content creation. I hope to help create the best digital artists on the planet. There are so many people and brands trying to find their feet in this relatively new space, and by collaborating with JOICO I think we could be at the forefront of this new era.
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Moved to London and began working with leading hairdressers in the industry
2006
Worked with the RUSH Artistic Team, forming bonds with Andy Heasman and Chris Williams
2008
Began working as an educator under the wing of mentor Adam Browne and others
2017 Started his YouTube channel ‘The Life Of Hair’, which James cites as his proudest achievement to date.
23
Fashion
Riot girls Punk attitude, redesigned for 2021
24
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Fashion
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25
Fashion
‘I want to give clients beautiful, wearable hair. Take the Pulp Riot Liquid Demi copper and High Speed Toner rose gold look I created for this collection: it is a vivid colour but it’s still so wearable, with a softness. It proves you can blend the creative and the wearable.’
HAIR: SARAH BLACK AT ADAM REED LONDON, MAKE-UP: WILMA STIGSON , PHOTOGRAPHY: STELLA MORAIS
Sarah Black, Adam Reed London
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HAIR: KEN HERMES, MAKE-UP: JOSEPH HILL, CREATIVE DIRECTOR: VERITY CLARKE, PHOTOGRAPHY: SAMM SMITÅH
Fashion
U N E A R T H E D
Classic styles given a new lease of life
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Inspiration
Life LENS THROUGH A Jack Howard
From editorial for Vogue to commercial collections for huge brands, balayage expert Jack Howard selects some of his favourite shots from his career
Blondes of the world!
2
This blonde campaign for Schwarzkopf Professional is one of my all-time favourite shoots. Thankfully the industry is moving in the right direction for blondes and Afro hair.
Collaboration time
5
My first collaboration as a colourist! I asked Zoë Irwin to style the hair; at that time collaborations were rare because of brand conflicts but I think we helped change that perception. Zoe’s cool girl vibe brought a whole new look to a heavy paint.
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Balayage and bobs
1
This was for an education video that I financed with my own money. My main aim was to show the diversity of balayage.
Golden glow
3
My first-ever shoot in the UK! I had zero money for it and did a street casting. The clothing budget was zero, so we focused on the hair. I'm proud to say British Vogue used this image!
6
Blonde ambition
I don’t think you’d associate this image with me, as it’s a little more editorial. I brought in a brunette as well as a blonde (out of shot) for some classic balayage. I think it's so pretty.
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14 pieces
4
The idea for '14 pieces' had come to me in the salon and I launched it as a technique; to this day people still talk about how it changed the way they paint.
7
Look of love
My first Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks campaign and my first year as the global blondme ambassador. This was a commercial look that resonated with stylists globally.
Business Business
We hope that you have enjoyed this edition of Salon International Magazine
We would welcome your
feedback. info@saloninternational.co.za
Plus, we would love to recieve contributions for articles to include in future issues.
If you have a collection of work that you would
like us to include, please do send that through for us to use.
Let’s show off the huge pool of talent that is
here in South Africa and show the world how inspirational we can be. info@saloninternational.co.za online@saloninternational
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