Salon International June 2021

Gen Z Colour What trends appeal to this generation

POPIA

Let’s Keep you out of trouble

A Radical Idea Change your opening hours

May 2021 | saloninternational.co.za

#loveilluminage

illuminage brazilian

expressive illuminated contrasts natural & luminous balayage

No compromise on lift Up to 97% less breakage*

9928

*when using BlondorPlex with Wellaplex N2, versus BlondorPlex alone

12

8

14

In this issue...

Regulars 4-6 Industry news Local and international news

8

Colourist Interview A top colour specialist shares their thoughts and ideas

9

Men’ Fashion Re-Exposure, art meets hair by Jason Hall

10 The Big Debate Two industry leaders debate a hot topic affecting the industry

31 The Hot List What new products are now on the market

Business 12 POPIA The EOHCB help explain your responsibilites

14 A Radical Idea Should you close on weekends, an intersting idea from the UK

Treatments 21 Generation Z and Colour What is it that inspires Gen Z?

Collections 32 People A reflection on how the world is feeling right now

32 Dispirit Hearts Iljan Davies Emrus, a timeless collection

Welcome We have received some great feedback from our first issue of Salon International magazine. We will endeavour to keep improving the content and ensure that we give the industry the kind of articles and inspiration that you would like.

As you know, Covid 19 cases are on the rise yet again and we are officially in the third wave. We hope that you all keep safe and adhere to the safe working practices and remain vigilant to the risks.

With this in mind, it may seem strange that we have announced the dates of the Salon International exhibition and the co-located Professional Beauty show. However, we hope that by the end of October we will have a much more positive situation concerning this dreadful virus and that we will be able to hold a successful event. As an industry, we are drawn to networking, exchanging ideas and being together.

Covid 19 has also brought us many challenges from a business front and we hope that the business articles included here, will help to improve your business and help improve your bottom line.

There are some great fashion shots included in this issue and we hope they will inspire and spark your own creative ideas. We would love to include more work from local hairdressers, so do please send in your images for us to consider.

Have a great month and keep safe.

Phil Special thanks to contributing editor Joanna Sterkowicz

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970

Cover photo Shutterstock

online @ saloninternational.co.za

3

INDUSTRY NEWS Research shows hair loss biomarker can determine COVID-19 disease severity in men Aesthetic Magazine UK reports that researchers have discovered a novel biomarker to identify male COVID-19 patients most at risk for ICU admission.

The findings suggest that men with genetic characteristics (phenotypes) sensitive to the male sex hormone, androgen, are more likely to experience severe COVID-19 disease.

Researchers were driven to study the association between the androgen receptor (AR) gene and COVID-19, after observing the disproportionate number of men hospitalised with COVID-19 presenting with androgenetic

alopecia, compared to the expected number in a similar age-matched population (79% vs 31-53%).

Dr Andy Goren, chief medical officer at Applied Biology in California, US, explained: “The identification of a biomarker connected with the androgen receptor is another piece of evidence highlighting the important role of androgens in COVID-19 disease severity.”

Applied Biology is a biotechnology company that specialises in hair science and developing drugs and medical devices to treat hair disorders.

The Salon International Exhibition 2021 dates are announced.

Professional Beauty JHB, returning to Gallagher Convention Centre on the 24th to the 25th October 2021, is a fantastic opportunity for trend spotting, inspiration, networking and learning, with your favourite brands and newcomers presenting their innovations and industry experts sharing their knowledge on the hottest industry topics.

Professional Beauty JHB welcomes beauty professionals, established salon owners, colleges as well as everyone looking to start a career in beauty.

Discover the newest trends to hit the industry! The experts

4

online @ saloninternational.co.za

behind your favourite brands will be showcasing their most recent innovations in skincare, aesthetic devices, nails, make-up and more.

Discover new skills whether it’s brushing up on advanced treatments improving your nail or makeup skills, there is something for everybody.

Registration will open soon, keep an eye on our website and social media platforms for more details!

Full Covid precautions will be adhered to as published at the time.

Phil Woods of Salon International said, “We will be ensuring that all Covid protocols are followed.

Entrance will be restricted to those who can prove they are working

within the trade and this will be strictly enforced. This will help to keep the number of visitors to acceptable levels and to improve the professionalism of the event.”

NEWS Go to www.saloninternational.co.za and sign up for our newsletter updates

JOICO award winners were announced at a prestigious ceremony held in Cape Town Held at the Westin Hotel Cape Town on the 25th May 2021. The Joico Awards Evening was the place to be seen for all those involved with this successful brand. This exciting event was held to honour all the top performing Joico salons, and also served as the official farewell to Joico’s owners Heather Miller and Pam Morrison after the sale of Joico to Twincare. Congratulations for your amazing performance and results!

Which hairdos rocked the MTV Movie Awards red carpet?

The stars were out in full force on 16 and 17 May in Hollywood at the MTV Movie Awards, with ‘Grown-ish’ star, Yara Shahidi, sporting one of the most intriguing styles of the night.

Shahidi, an acknowledged style icon, wore two very high and long fishtail braids that skimmed her waist, with two small twists of hair running across the top of her forehead like a crown, connecting the braids. To complete the look, there were a few subtle loose wavy strands cascading behind each ear.

Mandy Moore sported quite

Yara Shahidi (https://www.instagram.com/yarashahidi/)

an unusually severe look for her – a tightly pulled back chignon, which sat in the nape of her neck, coming off a centre parting and covering most of her ears, with absolutely no loose tendrils to soften the look.

Lara Condor sported an ultra sleek, ultra high ponytail, while ‘Riley Keough (Elvis Pressley’s granddaughter) also had her hair pulled off her face, into a braided ponytail.

Taylour Paige opted for a blunt cut bob swept over to one side, with the other side (at a much shorter length) tucked behind the ear.

Ashley Olsen had a slightly

disheveled but glam look, with curtain bangs and a non-too-tidy top knot.

How many women can pull off a buzz cut? Well, Cush Jumbo positively rocked one on the red carpet. Jurnee Smollett’s wavy and very voluminous bob was in stark contast.

TikTok phenomenon, Addison Rae, opted for beachy blonde waves that were all shades of golden.

Kathryn Hahn stunned with her long mahogany locks in loose, messy waves emanating from a deep side parting. (Report by Joanna Sterkowicz)

online @ saloninternational.co.za

5

NEWS

online @ saloninternational.co.za

011 305 1600/info@twincare.co.za or visit www.twincare.co.za

BETTER YOUR HAIR Get a lift.

Thicken your thin.

Boost your bounce.

Make it smooth.

Everything you’ve ever needed to achieve ever-lusting looks.

by KEVIN.MURPHY

COLOURIST INTERVIEW

tions a s r e v n Co

on

R U O COL with…

Jack and the Wolfe salon’s co-founder Lydia Wolfe shares her view on colour service pricing and why she loves nothing more than a shine line

Lydia Wolfe

LYDIA'S MOODBOARD What do you love most about being a colourist?

Being a colourist is so much fun and the opportunities are endless. The world of colour is so vibrant and you can really push the creative boundaries and experiment as much as you want. From beautiful and subtle blends such as honey blondes and rich brunettes to the crazy colours of fuchsia and forest green – no colour day is ever the same and every single colour you create is truly unique. It’s a joy to be part of the industry.

Where do you go for your colour inspiration?

I’m a firm believer in embracing the inspiration that surrounds you and I do just that. From flowers to artwork, buildings to individuals, there is colour everywhere and it’s up to you to choose how to use that within your creative vision. I also look towards the fashion week runways as they give such incredible ideas and it pushes the boundaries and helps us experiment with patterns, textures and colour.

What are your favourite colouring techniques at the moment?

I could do back-to-back high impact foilage all day at the moment. Post-lockdown transformations are really satisfying and everyone seems to want a big change which is so much fun! I’m also obsessed with the reflective tones of Goldwell’s Elumenated shades for when the sun hits my clients’ hair.

What colour trends are you pleased to see out of fashion?

I’m never glad to see the back of trends because I know I will love them when they come back again and they always do. I’m pleased more clients are requesting warmth and golds instead of ash as it doesn’t suit everyone’s skin tone and it can be so flat.

Are there any trends or techniques you’d like to bring back?

I know it’s all about beach waves and fluffy texture at the moment but bring back the shine line. It’s a gorgeous

8

online @ saloninternational.co.za

and timeless way to enhance a haircut. I’ve seen a few beautiful versions created with vivid colours recently and I’d love to see more in the salon.

What are the biggest challenges facing professional colourists at the moment?

There’s a lot of challenges when it comes to pricing.

Within the UK there is a wider community who focus on the discount market and are actively seeking cheaper appointments wherever possible. As professional colourists, it’s important that we do not underestimate our skills and prices. We have trained for an exceptional amount of time, we use the best professional brands, we are skilled in colour application and take our time to achieve our client’s vision. It’s important we educate the wider community and allow them to understand this.

What’s been your most memorable colour consultation?

When I was newly qualified I had a consultation with a girl with waist length virgin brown hair who wanted a rainbow vivid colour before vivids took off in salons.

There wasn’t any education on how to manage client expectations. I told the client it would take a whole day of my time and lots of product and treatments and how much that would cost. I was so nervous to tell her because it felt so expensive. She was happy with the quote and kept the colour with regular maintenance appointments.

It was the first time I charged my worth and had the client on board with the complexity of the process.

What colour creation makes you most proud?

It’s between my 2017 and 2018 winning Goldwell Color Zoom creations. If I had to choose it would be the latter because my model had years and years of black box dye to start with which took a few months to work through ahead of shooting the look which was very pale pastel greys, blues and pinks. The transformation was absolutely incredible. SI

O SSS U U RRR EEE O U RRR EEE --- EEE XXX PPP O ART MEETS HAIR

MEN’ FASHION

“Inspired by the portraits of David Bailey CBE, whose legacy of photographic art included a 1984 image of Jack Nicholson. Nicholson’s silhouette illuminates within the work. Applying this concept to my new collection you’ll quickly note the true texture in each look, which was crafted by hand.

Jason Hall

Hair: Jason Hall, Make-up: Kelly Cripps and Jo Sugar, Photography: Desmond Murray

online @ saloninternational.co.za

9

BUSINESS

The Debate

How important is a social media following for a successful hair business?

For many, social media has become integral to many salon in their marketing, but is it essential? Two experts share their experiences

“Social media is a modern-day portfolio of your work”

“We must remember that not all clients use social media” “My salon is 20 years old and has a broad mix of female and male clients with a range of ages from infants to senior citizens. We’re based in the busy town of Bothwell in Glasgow and I’d say 75% of our guests have a colour service alongside a cut. We regularly review our client database and our current client base is approximately 5,000.

Communicating with clients is always a priority – lockdown taught us how important it is to be in touch with them. We use emails and texts to communicate marketing initiatives via Phorest software and it’s really successful. We have quite a good following on social media with 1,500 on Facebook and 500 followers on Instagram – but we don’t use it a lot.

I wouldn’t say we consciously decided not to jump aboard the social media train, but social media is a relatively new way of building a clientele. Over the past five to 10 years it has exploded, but we must remember not all clients use social media. After 20 years of building a regular clientele based on reputation, we’ve probably been less assertive in this area than we should be. Some of that is because of lack of expertise and knowledge, but to make your content relevant and professional requires a great deal of time.

I’d much rather my team spend their time effectively communicating with our seated guests. However, it hasn’t affected our business and we are attracting new clients. I’m a great believer that word-of-mouth is still as strong today as any social media platform.

Ultimately your guest’s in-salon experience is more important than a few hundred likes on an edited photograph. You can’t edit their experience and that is what matters when trying to build a successful business.”

Simon Townley, Matrix artist and Hair Socials founder

David Corbett, David Corbett Hairdressing, Bothwell, Glasgow

SHUTTERSTOCK

“Social media has two uses for salons and hairdressers.

Firstly, it is a modern-day portfolio of work and secondly, it’s the way clients are comfortable communicating with us. Some clients feel self-conscious walking into a new salon, but using social media can almost make them feel like they have already been to your salon because they have seen everything within it.

I used to work above a store and social media was my window for showing off my work alongside word-of-mouth. I was fully booked even though I had no shop window and very little walk-ins. Now, five years later, we use social media to advertise our work. It’s attracted footballers and influencers to get their hair cut with me and the reactions it gets helps me to attract these types of clients. We use social media to advertise availability, last minute cancellations, promote new products and appeal to those looking for something new.

I set up a Facebook group called Hair Socials for like-minded people who want to share their knowledge.

We have over 14,000 members who come to support, learn and share their different skillsets. It’s a great way for those who work solo to feel connected and part of a community.

If you’re new to social media, I’d recommend knowing your brand and what it is you love to do. What do you love to create? This will attract the right type of client.

Use the location options to tag your town or business.

This will help locals see your posts on the discovery or recommendation pages. You can also use the grid as a diary of your work during your consultations.

In my experience clients feel their hair is special if you post it on social media! It might take time but the effects on your business and your profile are tenfold.”

Bed Head has relaunched and it's the come-back we have all been waiting for.

online @ probeauty.co.za

011 305 1600/info@twincare.co.za or visit www.twincare.co.za

11

Business

PROTECTION OF PERSONAL INFORMATION

PROTECTION OF PERSONAL INFORMATION ACT 4 OF 2013 (‘POPIA’) It’s been a long time coming, and the Protection of Personal Information Act 4 of 2013 (“POPIA”) finally come into full force on the 1st of July 2021.

The Protection of Personal Information Act (or POPI Act) is South Africa’s equivalent of the European Union General Data Protection Regulation. It sets some conditions for responsible parties (called controllers in other jurisdictions) to lawfully process the personal information of data subjects (both natural and juristic persons).

The Protection of Personal Information Act was enacted to promote the protection of personal information processed by public and private bodies and to provide for the minimum conditions for the lawful processing of personal information, to establish an obligation on Information Officers of public and private bodies to designate and delegate any power or duty to Deputy

12

online @ saloninternational.co.za

Information Officers; and to outline the compulsory requirements for registration of Information Officers with the Information Regulator.

Essentially, the purpose of the Protection of Personal Information Act (POPIA) is to protect people from harm by protecting their personal information. To stop their money from being stolen, to stop their identity from being stolen, and generally to protect their privacy, which is a fundamental human right. To achieve this, the Protection of Personal Information Act sets conditions for when it is lawful for someone to process someone else’s personal information.

The POPI Act is important because it protects data subjects from harm, like theft and discrimination. The risks of noncompliance include reputational damage, fines and imprisonment, and paying out damages claims to data subjects.

The Protection of Personal Information Act (POPIA) involves three parties (who can be natural or juristic persons): The data subject: the person to whom the information relates.

The responsible party: the person who determines why and how to process. For example, profit companies, non-profit companies, governments, state agencies and people. Called controllers in other

jurisdictions.

The operator: a person who processes personal information on behalf of the responsible party.

For example, an IT vendor. Called processors in other jurisdictions.

The Protection of Personal Information Act places various obligations on the responsible party, which is the body ultimately responsible for the lawful processing of personal information. Responsible parties should only use operators that can meet the requirements of lawful personal information processing prescribed by the Protection of Personal Information Act. “Personal information” means – information relating to an identifiable, living, natural person, and where it is applicable and identifiable, existing juristic person, including, but not limited to; information relating to the race, gender, sex, pregnancy, marital status, national, ethnic or social origin, colour, sexual orientation, age, physical or mental health, well-being, disability, religion, conscience, belief, culture, language and birth of the person; information relating to the education or the medical, financial, criminal or employment history of the person; any identifying number, symbol, e-mail address, physical

Business

address, telephone number, location information, online identifier or other particular assignments to the person; the biometric information of the person; the personal opinions, views or preferences of the person; correspondence sent by the person that is implicitly or explicitly of a private or confidential nature or further correspondence that would reveal the contents of the original correspondence; the views or opinions of another individual about the person; and the name of the person if it appears with other personal information relating to the person or if the disclosure of the name itself would reveal information about the person.

This registration of an Information Officer is compulsory and must be done by the latest 30 JUNE 2021!

The Information Officer is required, in terms of Section 55(2) of the POPIA, to take up his/her duties only after being registered with the Regulator.

The Information Officer referred to in section 55(1) of the POPIA is the same Information Officer referred to in sections 1 or 14 and 51 of the Promotion of Access to Information Act (PAIA). The Information Officer of public or private bodies performs his/her duties and responsibilities in terms of both PAIA and POPIA. Appoint an Information Officer (IO) and register with the Information Regulator The Protection of Personal Information Act requires that every business within South Africa register a Protection of Personal Information Officer (IO) who is either employed by the business (managerial position) and accepts the responsibilities and duties of an Information Officer, or the business owner(s) (responsible party) need

to register by default as the Information Officer.

An information officer’s responsibilities include; the encouragement of compliance by the body, with the conditions for the lawful processing of personal information; dealing with requests made to the body pursuant to the POPI Act; working with the Information Regulator in relation to investigations conducted in relation to the body; otherwise ensuring compliance by the body with the provisions of the Act; and as may be prescribed.

An information officer must also ensure that a compliance framework is developed, implemented, monitored and maintained, a personal information impact assessment is done to ensure that adequate measures and standards exist in order to comply with the conditions for the lawful processing of personal information, and that a manual is developed, monitored, maintained and made available as prescribed in section 51 of the Promotion of Access to Information Act, 2000 (Act No. 2 of 2000); internal measures are developed together with adequate systems to process requests for information or access thereto; and internal awareness sessions are conducted regarding the provisions of the POPI Act, regulations made in terms of the Act, codes of conduct, or information obtained from the Regulator.

The information officer shall upon request by any person, provide copies of the manual to that person upon the payment of a fee to be determined by the Regulator from time to time.

the Information Regulator website https://justice.gov.za/inforeg/ portal.html. You have until 30 June 2021 to register your IO but we recommend that you do so asap.

How to register as or an information officer?

The Information Officer (IO) registration portal is now live on

Should you require assistance with POPIA compliance, feel free to contact the EOHCB Information Officer at popi-io@eohcb.com.

The registration of an Information Officer is the first step to being POPI compliant. Every business within South Africa needs to meet all 6 steps in order to be compliant, and evidence of this compliance must be presented upon inspection or request by the Regulator.

Step 1: Information Officer and Deputy Officer Registration, Step 2: Map and Analyse all Personal information, Step 3: Risk Assessment Conduct audit on measures to protect personal information, Step 4: Draft POPI Privacy Policy, and include in contracts of employment and third-party contracts, Step 5: Training – Provide training to employees and other stakeholders to ensure compliance operationally, Step 6: Information Regulator & South African Human Rights Commission – Update Industrial Relations with regularly updated audits.

What are the Penalties for Noncompliance?

There are essentially two legal penalties or consequences for the responsible party: A fine or imprisonment of between R1 million and R10 million or one to ten years in jail, and paying compensation to data subjects for the damage they have suffered.

Other penalties include; Reputation damage, losing customers/clients, and failing to attract new customers/clients.

online @ saloninternational.co.za

13

BUSINESS

A new idea has taken shape at a salon in the UK as a result of the ‘new normal’.

Salon owner David Downer explains why other salons should consider doing the same.

Why are you changing your opening hours later this month?

From Monday 28 June my salon, Kings and Queens Hairdressing in Northamptonshire, will be open from Monday to Friday only. I made this decision after taking a close look at the business during lockdown and realising Saturdays were not the busy days they used to be. A long time ago Saturday was the mega day of the week that was packed out and the only day that many clients were available for an appointment.

Even before the pandemic we noticed there were far less walk-ins on Saturdays. The working from home trend started before 2019 but I believe it’s now here to stay. This gives clients the option to visit the salon when they would otherwise be travelling to and from the office or during their lunchbreak. Similarly it means our clients have much more flexible schedules during the working day and might choose to start or finish earlier or later than usual to fit in a hair appointment.

Plus, the change means all of our clients will benefit from the fact they have to get their hair appointment ticked off during the week, which will give them extra time at the weekend to spend with friends and family.

14

online @ saloninternational.co.za

The 2020 lockdown highlighted the importance of mental wellbeing for all of us. I was at home for eight months out of 12, for example, and realised the amount of time I’d missed with my children and family due to working in the salon at weekends. I’ve got a child who will be starting football in a few weeks-time so if I was working every weekend, I wouldn’t get to see him play.

doing this for them.

They are really excited, especially as we’re one of the first salons to do this and they do understand it means having to work longer hours during the week to accommodate all of our clients.

I believe the change in hours will be really positive from a recruitment perspective as it will give us a unique point of difference from other salons in the area.

How will your new opening hours affect your profits?

I don’t believe the change in opening hours will hit us financially. I do believe that giving our team free weekends will boost their mental health and wellbeing.

We don’t get walk-ins anymore as everyone books via appointment.

Plus, most of our clients can see us later in the evening during the week or on a Monday when most salons are closed.

How have your clients reacted to the news so far?

We’ve had a brilliant response from our clients. One client did ask what should she do if she needs a blowdry or style for a Saturday night out.

Over the years however, there has been a decline in the Friday, Saturday night party hair for us. This isn’t a crucial part of our business.

Most of our clients who usually visit on a Saturday can book an appointment during the week instead. We realise we might lose a few clients but we will gain others from salons who are usually closed on Mondays.

How has the hairdressing industry reacted to your plans?

I shared my plans on hairdressing Facebook groups and I’ve already had so many positive messages from fellow hairdressers. Some told me they were considering it, while others said they might try to phase out weekends slowly.

I’m going cold turkey with it and will also be closed on bank holidays. On a bank holiday week, for example, we will be open Tuesday to Friday.

What impact will this change have on your staff?

The team are really happy with our plan and appreciate that we are

What’s your advice to salons who are tempted to do something similar?

From the response I’ve had from the team and clients so far as well as the hairdressing community – I’d say just go for it! The first client I told was excited for me and said congratulations on opening Monday to Friday. Any big change is scary at first and if you’re worried about it you could start with every other Saturday to give you and your team a better work/life balance.

SHUTTERSTOCK

A RADICAL IDEA

online @ probeauty.co.za

011 305 1600/info@twincare.co.za or visit www.twincare.co.za

COLOUR COLOUR

COLOUR

GEN Z

TRENDS IN

COLOUR There are a number of factors that influence Generation Z – those born from the mid 1990s onwards “A lot

of influence is found online or via influencers who are more unapologetic about the way in which they present themselves,” says Becky Sutherland, owner of Pink Lemon Hair and Crazy Color sponsored stylist. “This is seen particularly in pop culture and it creates new social norms. Billie Eilish, for example, wore a bright green root for a long period of time, and Halsey is frequently modelling different hair colours on social media,” she says.

Gen Z are often associated with the TikTok app, where hair transformations are proving to be popular in the form of snappy video content with instant results. “Gen Z are fast becoming some of the most demanding clients and I love it,” says Gareth Williams, Revlon Professional ambassador and consumer colour educator at Salon 64. “#glowup challenges and transformative reels

16

online @ saloninternational.co.za

have made this set of social media gurus push their looks further. This generation are here to slay and they are happy to put their money where their mouth is,” he says.

You may also find your Gen Z

Tap into TikTok colour trends and learn how to accommodate your Gen Z clients in the salon

clients questioning the types of products you use in the salon. Not only are they on the hunt for services that will make them look and feel great, but they also want to use brands that are aligned with their 35 / hji.co.uk

JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS

values. “I’m always being asked if I use products that are natural and vegan, sulphate-free and not tested on animals,” says Dylan McConnachie, FFØR brand ambassador. “Hair brands are constantly evolving with new and natural technologies which allows clients to use a whole range of products that will leave the hair in immaculate condition,” he says.

Lockdown in particular paved the way for at-home experimentation with some unsuccessful DIY colour.

Many are now seeking professional guidance however, says Lucy Trevorrow, Celeb Luxury brand ambassador. “The first problem most young people faced was the overwhelming choice of what colour to choose and why,” she says. “With that there were many failed attempts due to the user not understanding what some semi-permanent hair colours should or shouldn’t do.”

HJ asks the experts to share how to accommodate Gen Z clients in your salon, as well as the key trends to watch in the coming months...

The Money Piece “There has been a resurgence of clients asking for more striking money pieces at the front,” says Simon Tuckwell, ambassador for Balmain Paris Hair Couture. “Panels of colour placed along the front hairline that are getting heavier and more daring with splashes of colour to add a real pop.” It’s a trend that can work with many hair colours. “This could be creating a more prominent contrasting chunky money piece on a natural balayage to a more random abstract panel placement. It works so well in both natural and vivid colour work,” explains Christabel Legrand, Pulp Riot ambassador. “This trend is something I was seeing a lot on TikTok a few months ago, alongside the 1990s fashion revival,” she says.

LINDSEY LOCKS FOR

CELEB LUXURY

The Horizontal Split “I predict strong, monochromatic 1990s-inspired under-colour techniques, such as Dua Lipa with her blonde and chocolate two-tone hair,” says Sam Burnett, owner of Hare & Bone, which is a Goldwell salon. “This look is on the more subtle end of the scale until you see luscious ruby locks showing through an effortless icy overlay that is clean, crisp and full of impact,” adds Lucy Trevorrow, Celeb Luxury brand ambassador.

“Rather than committing to a full head of fashion or vivid colour, we are predicting more muted tones and partial areas of colours in hidden areas such as underneath sections and Alice bands. These are gorgeous as they give pops of colour as the hair moves,” says Debbie G, owner of Billi Currie and a Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador.

ALFAPARF MILANO

CHRISTABEL LEG

RAND FOR PULP

RIOT

COLOUR

Colour Blocking Vivica Davies, Alfaparf Milano international educator notes colour blocking is a huge trend for high impact colour. “This technique works well to enhance graphic shapes such as fringes. For longer lengths a bold face frame is also wonderfully eyecatching,” she says. “Candy tones are updated through the use of contrasting depths of harmonious metallic shades.

Ultra-violets or metallic rose coppers create a look that is sure to amaze,” she adds. With Gen Z shunning established styles, such as skinny jeans, you can expect them to make the same statements with their hair, explains Tracey Devine Smith, ASP global ambassador. “Hair is similarly following suit with two-tone being hot off the press and big hair with texture set to make a massive resurgence.”

WHAT ABOUT MALE CLIENTS?

“

We’ve seen an increase in men’s colour again,” says Balmain’s Simon Tuckwell. “The shoe shine has started to creep back in, again a true nod to the 1990s. Even flat tops have made a comeback. We’ve dusted off our flat topper from the depths of our kitbags,” he says. “It’s so important to stay on top of these trends. Clients have more access to them than ever before so we need to be ahead.”

HOW TO MINIMISE WASTE WHEN USING MULTIPLE SHADES?

“

Working with multiple vivids can lead to waste so for any new client I start with less and add more as needed, as I know it will all be recorded by our Vish system,” says Rhi Taylor, senior colourist at Simon Webster Salon, Brighton. “I’ll then have the exact bespoke mix ratios and can easily reproduce the same colour or tweak it at the client’s next salon visit.”

Creating New Characters Creating a persona can be a fun way for your Gen Z clients to express themselves. “One of the many trends on TikTok is cosplay. We’ve already seen lots of users colouring their hair to create a character,” say the Vanity Doll Salon team, who are La Riche Directions hair colour ambassadors. “Another big influence is from celebrity culture, also heavily seen on TikTok. Users will colour their hair to follow the latest trends made by their favourite celebrities or influencers.”

The Vanity Doll Salon team add: “We’ve also seen a lot of users in this generation wanting to colour wigs rather than their own hair to follow these trends, so they can keep up with the fashion quickly and effortlessly.” online @ saloninternational.co.za

17

COLOUR

COLOUR TRENDS TO WATCH “Colour is limitless. There are no boundaries when it comes to hair shades for mid-season 2021,” says Warren Boodaghian, head of technical for HOB Academy. “Self-expression, dramatic, super-polished and confident define the hair trends for the next few seasons. After months of being locked away it’s not about a makeover. It’s wanting to express how we feel about our inner selves and bring it to life through colour and style,” he adds.

DANI VAN BUREN FOR PULP RIOT

“Grungy vivids seem to be very popular with Gen Z. Think vivids like Crazy Color Peppermint with a blunt root drag. Alternatively it could be something easily topped up at home but isn’t a lot of maintenance at the salon,” says Amber Letham, Crazy Color sponsored stylist.

AMBER LETHAM FOR CRAZY COLOR

 Grunge Vivids

CAROL RITCHIE FOR MATRIX

“One of the biggest hair colours for 2021 is orange. The choice is going to be between a bold solid statement of colour to a soft and warm gloss,” says Matrix artist, Carol Ritchie. “Face framing and even a pop of colour will continue to be big news.”

SIMON TUCKWELL

 Future Orange

 E-Girl Pink

SIMON TUCKWELL FOR BALMAIN

RHI TAYLOR FOR VISH

“After we’ve settled the argument about the centre parting or side parting, what we’re expecting to see colour-wise is all about making a statement,” says Victoria Panting, technical education consultant for Salon Success. “Pastel pinks and peaches on your existing blonde locks will be a key look this spring and summer. You can also expect these shades to have an element of vibrancy even though they are pastel,” she says.

RHI TAYLOR FOR VISH

Announced as WGSN’s Colour of the Year for 2023, we predict this hue will trickle into hair colour ahead of time.

“In the salon we’re seeing clients be more expressive and open to change, less balayage and more placement colour, bold sectioning and embracing strong tones sitting next to soft delicate palettes,” says HOB’s Warren Boodaghian. “Moving on from the Pantone of the Year Ultimate Gray, we are seeing an injection of lavenders, stone and metallic rose.”

RREN COLOUR BY WA R WELLA BOODAGHIAN FO

 Digital Lavender

BLONDE TIP OF THE MONTH “Whether you’re foiling, doing root applications or a first time blonding service, after your thorough consultation, take fine sections and use plenty of product.The biggest issue I see is blonde hair not lifting enough or evenly.Take fine sections and make sure you leave it on long enough!”

Rob Howse, Wella Professionals National Key Account Educator

18

online @ saloninternational.co.za

39 / hji.co.uk

Managing Expectations Big colour transformations can take several visits and can come with a high cost so be open with your client.

“Be honest with them about what is possible – over promising will only land you in hot water and leave you with an unhappy client if you can’t achieve results,” says Amber Letham, a Crazy Color sponsored stylist. “If your client is insistent, then gently suggest that you’re not matched for a professional relationship.”

Sources such as TikTok can be ideal for inspiration but you should always proceed with caution points out milk_shake ambassador, Andrew Smith. He says: “My team are trained on how to use in-depth consultations to ensure clients really understand the levels of commitment required to achieve specific goals. The client is guided on regularity of visits to the salon and the journey they will need to take to achieve their desired result.”

Reinforcing the importance of home care after a colour service is key. “Your client needs to understand that aftercare is vital. You should also explain what they can expect from the colour fade during their salon visit,” says Jess McMahon, OSMO ambassador and owner of Son of a Bleach in Stourport, Worcestershire.

“I always advise my clients to let their colour settle for a few days after its first application, so no washing the next day or two. Instead, they can use a dry shampoo like the OSMO Day 2 Styler. Clients should also use shampoos and conditioners throughout that will lock in colour and keep it hydrated,” she advises.

Using TikTok to Educate Gen Z Social media can be a great tool for attracting clients to your business as well as educating them. “Educating the client has become easier with these platforms as I can show them the short and informative videos I’ve created on the Matrix homecare range,” points out Carol Ritchie, a Matrix artist. “I even show the difference between a professional range and a shop bought product so they see it with their own eyes,” she adds.

How to Attract Gen Z Clients Tapping into social media is the perfect way to showcase your work and salon to a Gen Z client base, says Manic Panic ambassador and educator Steven Austin. “Post regularly on TikTok with any videos you have of hair makeovers or something simple like brushing out curls. A video of a client’s wet hair at the backwash also works – all of these videos are typically ones that will get seen by the Gen Z audience and will get you noticed.”

Business Trends

19

online @ probeauty.co.za

011 305 1600/info@twincare.co.za or visit www.twincare.co.za

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

Business Tips

ask The the Low EXPERTS Down

15

Image from Pixabay

I am a salon owner wanting to advertise my establishment beyond just using social media for marketing purposes. What mistakes should I avoid in terms of adverts?

Advertising can be the best investment you can make, or it can be a major expense for your business. Ask someone else to test your ads against these six common mistakes below. If you feel at any point that you have to defend or explain something in your ads, then you have a problem.

1. You do not identify and qualify your potential client in your advertising.

Ads are, by their very nature, invasive, as nobody waits for your ad to appear before them. The ad appears in front of somebody who is busy doing something else, either paging through a magazine or scrolling a social media wall.

Your ad needs to tell the viewer in a single view that it is there to deliver an important message to her, and why she should not ignore it.

2. Your potential client doesn’t see in one second what your ad is about.

Generic does not attract attention.

We all have a long list of things requiring our attention and we are always looking for a possible solution. When an ad addresses a specific problem and offers a solution for a problem on our list,

20

online @ saloninternationa.co.za

it gets our attention. For example, one more laser clinic doesn’t address any problem or offer any solution. But a laser clinic that specialises in the removal of hair caused by hormonal change after a pregnancy addresses a specific problem. And it offers a solution.

3. You don’t prove to your potential client that you know more and provide a superior service.

Nobody likes to be a ‘lab mouse’.

Your ad needs to tell the viewer that she is not the first and that the solution you offer her has benefited many before her. Once the viewer knows that she is not the first, she wants to know that you are a specialist in your field.

4. Your ad doesn’t invite your client to learn more about you and your services if she is not ready to buy at this very moment.

Only between 1% and 2% of people who view your ad are ready to buy. It is expensive to run ads only catering for this small group of people. You need to provide the viewer who is not ready to buy today, but soon will be, with a way to bond with you.

5. Your ad doesn’t provide the viewer with clear instructions on what to do next and a reason to do it without delay.

We are all conditioned throughout our lives to follow instructions. Do you provide clear instructions in your ad for the viewer to follow?

And do you give the viewer a compelling reason to do so without delay?

6. Your potential client doesn’t know how to make contact with you.

As brainless as this may sound, it is unbelievable how many ads run without visible contact details.

Or the ad may only display a single contact method that is not compatible with your typical client.

Raymond Schoeman is the founder and Head Course Coordinator of LaserCollege, a leading authority in aesthetic laser training. Schoeman started his career in the industry when he opened his first laser clinic in Pretoria in 2000. He is the author of two books: Textbook for Aesthetic Laser Therapy and Aesthetic Laser Treatments – Insider Secrets.

online @ probeauty.co.za

TOP 3 PRODUCTS

1 Super Skinny Serum

2 Freeze and Shine Super Hairspray

3 Awapuhi Shampoo

Did you know? In 1980, we became the first professional beauty company to publicly stand up against animal testing. Now, more than 40 years later, that pledge to our furryfriends remains a driving force in all that we do.

online @ saloninternationa.co.za online @ saloninternational.co.za

011 305 1600/info@twincare.co.za or visit www.twincare.co.za

21

Business Tips

20

The parting of ways

Beauty business expert, LIZ MCKEON, provides tips on what to do if your most in-demand therapist leaves

W

hen your superstar therapist walks into your office, closes the door, sits down and asks if you can talk, you get that sinking feeling in your stomach telling you what is coming next…..she is leaving.

It’s natural to take their resignation personally and to panic and get upset. You may feel angry, disappointed, confused and even betrayed.

However, now is not the time for these emotions as you have a business to run and clients to keep. Instead, stay positive, calm and focused on your salon.

Don’t let your star therapist’s resignation get to you. Accept that not everyone is committed to your business for life and that’s ok. As the business owner, you are probably giving at least 10 years of your life to working really hard on a single goal – turning something you are passionate about into a successful business. And, you are willing to make a lot of sacrifices in the pursuit of that goal. It is unrealistic to expect that of anyone else who isn’t the business owner.

PERSONAL GOALS Your top performers don’t just work hard on your business. They also work hard on themselves and are constantly working to better themselves and their position in life. You can (and should) help them to achieve

22

online @ probeauty.co.za online @ saloninternational.co.za

Photo by Keagan Henman

No matter where the therapist No matter where is the going to or what therapist is going to or the circumstances what the circumstances oftheir their departure of departure are, are, do not let your do not let your team teamtogossip gossip clients. to clients.

their own personal goals, but the reality is that you simply can’t provide that for everyone.

For many employees, you don’t have what they’re looking for in their next career step, whether it’s a management role or any number of other roles that just don’t exist in a small company.

If you want to hire the best, expect that they will behave like

Interview

talented, ambitious people do.

Sometimes they will outgrow the role you’ve given them. If you can’t provide their next step, then they need to move on to where they will get their needs met.

Acknowledge that they have worked hard and brought value to you and your team. Maybe they will again someday but for now, accept that their time with your business is over. So wish them well and mean it. Accept that despite your best efforts, employees will move on.

REMAINING STAFF Next, start to focus on protecting your salon business from unnecessary employee churn. No single employee should hold the keys to the kingdom of your business. If they do, then you take too much of a financial hit when they leave.

A useful exercise that you can do in this situation is to ask yourself: ‘If employee X moved on tomorrow, what would that do to us?’ Then think about that for every single person on your payroll. If your business is too reliant on one individual, start to upskill other team members and spread the load.

Not letting it get to you means putting things into context, so you can go home and switch off.

When an employee leaves, you will get over it, your salon will get over it and all will be fine again.

5 STEPS If your star therapist decides to leave, move quickly and do the following.

1

Contact the therapist’s clients immediately It is preferable that the clients hear the news directly from you and it gives you a chance to book them in with another member of the team. If you cannot contact them by phone, then a letter or email is another good way to get in touch. A text is too short and impersonal and it may send out

the wrong message as it might look like you’re not that bothered about their custom.

2

What to say to clients Stay positive and keep the message simple. Remember that the star therapist’s clients are the salon’s clients. The client doesn’t need to know the details just that you will continue to look after them at your salon. Acknowledge that you are sad to see the person leave, but you wish them all the very best, and now back to you and your next appointment…

3

Manage the gossip!

No matter where the therapist is going to or what the circumstances of their departure are, do not let your team gossip to clients. Give your team their instructions. If necessary, give your team – particularly your reception staff – a script, so they have a well-rehearsed response at the ready. Some clients may feel a little let down, so it is important to manage the situation.

4

Social media Keep an eye on your social media accounts, just in case clients are being poached via this channel. Now is the perfect time to increase your own marketing and shout about just how fantastic your salon is.

5

Pull out all the stops Do everything you can to keep your clients, but if they follow the therapist, don’t give up – continue to market to those clients and make it easy for them to return to your salon.

Remember, you are an amazing entrepreneur and this is just a bump in the road! In no time at all your salon will be back to normal. Everybody is replaceable.

Accept that not Accept that not everyone everyone is committed tois your committed to your business for life and business for life that’s ok.

Business Tips

21

and that’s ok.

EXIT INTERVIEWS: THE INSIDER’S GUIDE If the departing employee agrees to an ‘exit interview’, this is an opportunity not to be missed. Exit interviews are useful as they do the following • Provide an opportunity to ‘make peace’ with the disgruntled employee • Are seen as a positive activity by existing staff • Provide relevant and useful data for future training needs • Might even result in giving you a chance to retain your superstar therapist • Are a unique chance to survey and analyse the opinions of departing employees, who are generally more forthcoming, constructive and objective than staff still in their jobs • Hearing and handling feedback is a powerful development process for the salon manager.

Liz McKeon is an author, business coach, trainer and mentor, specialising in salon turnaround. liz@lizmckeon.com

online @ probeauty.co.za online @ saloninternational.co.za

23

Business Tips

22

Send and Send & Receive Receive

With many of our clients and team members still reeling from With many of our clients and team members still reeling from the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic and facing limited the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic and facing limited social interaction, it’s important we listen and respond to their social interaction, it’s important we listen and respond to emotional needs, writes HELLEN WARD their emotional needs, writes HELLEN WARD

Photo by Brett Jordan on Unsplash

W

hatever might be happening at the moment, at least 2020 is now firmly behind us, even if the long-term ramifications of the coronavirus pandemic are not.

The emotional toll of Covid-19 is still alive and kicking, even if the longed-for vaccine hopes to kick the virus down the road until herd immunity properly overtakes it.

Speaking with my best friend

24

online @ probeauty.co.za online @ saloninternational.co.za

Heather recently, she was describing a family member as being ‘permanently on send, never on receive’. We were laughing, talking about how some people are terrible listeners but great talkers; how even those close to us sometimes fail to really hear us among all the noise they are making – missing the vital clues that we train our teams to watch for, which hone their consulting skills.

But our conversation seriously

Salons are not just Salons not just about are delivering about hair hairdelivering and beauty and beauty treatments, treatments, they have proved they have proved themselves to be a themselves to be a community service. community service.

Business Tips

25 got me thinking. Now, more than ever, if you’re a manager of people, you need to be firmly in receive mode; listening for the clues and hoping by just being there, and being a sympathetic ear, you can help ensure the wellbeing of your team, emotionally as well as performance-wise.

Long-term impact One of my oldest friends, Ali, works in social services, managing a team of people in her county dealing with all types of domestic abuse and family issues.

Her job is extremely challenging and she has always worked from home for the majority of her working week. The real toll of coronavirus lockdown 2.0 will not be fully known for some time to come, she tells me.

Children of abusers and abused partners will die as a result of zero interaction with, and therefore intervention, from the outside world. Abusers and those who use coercive behaviours with their family and partners will have maximised the controlling benefits that lockdown brings, and working from home is undeniably a contributing factor.

In the UK’s recent lockdown 2.0, I decided that our small crack squad of senior managers, rather than Zooming a few hours a week to catch up, should go into the office – more for the social interaction than anything work related.

“Good shout,” said Ali; it’s proven that the small photocopier moments, the chats in the staff room, the seemingly unimportant banter about what we’ve been watching on Netflix or other little anecdotes is the very thing that is vital for our social interaction, and, therefore, our sanity.

Home working Another friend, Pat, does the accounts for a fast-food restaurant chain. Finding out their head office, where she worked, was closing for good has floored

Image by Gerd Altmann from Pixabay

People are not People are not designed todesigned live in to live in isolation. isolation.

How many times do we How many times hear clients that do from we hear from the clients therapist’s couch that the is much more than a is hairdressers chais revitalising facial? much more than an essential cut? her. The company was forced to make redundancies, as many have been, so she, as a single mother, has turned her small living room into an office and now she is doing the work of five former colleagues with two synced giant computer screens. Poor time management hasn’t helped – she regularly finds herself doing emails at stupid o’clock, failing to compartmentalise her work-life balance and not taking regular breaks.

Some days she hasn’t even been outside, bar school drop off and pick up. Food shopping is budgeted carefully so monthly online grocery shops help control her funds. But the lack of interaction with other adults has left her mental health in tatters.

She longs to go back to her office, where work is fitted into the structured working week and that is where her job role finishes.

We’re lucky that, as a sector, working from home isn’t an option for most of us. The image of how permanent home working

will have affected us in just a few short years’ time is truly scary.

Fatigued humans shuffling around in slippers and tackling obesity, their mental state in dire straits.

Human connection People are not designed to live in isolation. How many times do we hear from clients that the therapist’s couch is much more than a revitalising facial? We are, as one of my regular clients termed it, an escape from Covid-19 angst – a place where the world feels comfortably normal.

Salons are not just about delivering hair and beauty treatments, they have proved themselves to be a community service. No business owner can take responsibility for their staff’s mental health outside the workplace, but ensuring we listen, look for the signs, and above all invite the discussion, may just prove an invaluable and severely lacking element of our roles as leaders.

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF). Send your feedback to hellen@ professionalbeauty.co.uk

online @ probeauty.co.za online @ saloninternational.co.za

25

Business

Spa Focus

30

Shift your focus to Shift your focus to one of one of abundance abundance MARISA DIMITRIADIS

MARISA DIMITRIADIS reveals how changing reveals how changing your mindset when times your mindset times are tough canwhen open up are cantoopen yourtough business new up possibilities your business to new possibilities “I’m working so hard but not making enough money!” Sound familiar?

In the past two or three weeks I have had at least 40 messages or calls from industry professionals using these exact words, so I decided to detail a few tips towards starting to change this scenario.

Firstly, stop saying or thinking that you are not making enough money.

It all starts with mindset and thoughts. I can just imagine some of you rolling your eyes now and saying what nonsense, as thoughts have nothing to do with reality. Well, you are wrong. The first step you can take towards changing how much money you are making is by thinking abundantly. And don’t ever say the words, “I am not making enough money”.

The definition of the word abundance is – a very large quantity of something, while the word scarcity is defined as – the state of being in short supply.

Abundance vs scarcity are two mindsets that you get to choose to believe. Let me give you some examples.

Scarcity is when you are constantly thinking that times are

26

online @ @ saloninternational.co.za probeauty.co.za online

Image by John Hain from Pixabay

Upsells on every singleon treatment Upsells every single are easy theif the treatment are if easy team is trained on to team is trained on how do how it. Selltotreatments from do it. Sell most profitablefrom to least treatments mostprofitable. profitable to least profitable. getting tougher and that it’s harder to make money in our industry.

Scarcity is avoiding risk and fearing change. Scarcity is focused constantly on the bank balance

Abundance is welcoming competition and, in fact, regarding it as inspiration. Abundance believes the best is yet to come and that the pie is growing. Abundance shares knowledge and freely offers to help others.

State of mind Your state of mind does not need to match what is actually currently happening in your current circumstances. You might very well be in the middle of a massive cash flow crunch and having staff challenges that are real and

Business

happening. But, if you continue to make decisions based on ‘not having enough money’, well then you will never get out of the situation because you are continuously focused on the same thoughts of watching cash flow and not having enough money. Sound familiar maybe?

So, how do you change this?

Simple, shift your focus. How do you do this? I am not saying lie to yourself and pretend it’s not happening, however you can change your state of mind and then your thoughts have the ability to keep you focused on the possibilities.

Opportunities vs threats If you believe the best is yet to come and you focus your energies on opportunities rather than threats, then you will most likely make it through your cash flow crunch.

Make a list of what you will be doing with the money that is going to come into the business.

A big part of having an abundance mindset is the ability to focus on what you already have and being grateful for it.

Gratitude is about having appreciation for all the good things in your business and your life and the lessons that you have learned along the way. When you focus on the good feelings you get when you show gratitude, the positive feelings will increase and so will all the other good things because you are going to be more aware of them. When you become more aware of all the good things, you feel more abundant! What a brilliant spin off!

Sense of worth Lastly, accept that creating more abundance starts with a deep sense of worth. You must believe that you deserve abundance in your life.

When you believe that you deserve to have a lot more and that there is more than enough to go around, then this abundance mindset creates more opportunities, opens up creativity and more possibilities.

Product is the main expense in any spa/ salon business. Check your

saying, ‘I have cut everywhere I can’, well, look again and go and find another 10% to cut.

Increase revenue

Image by Shan Ejai from Pixabay

If you believe the Ifbest you is believe thecome best is yet to yet to come andfocus you focus and you your energies on your energies opportunities rather than on opportunities threats, then you will rather than threats, most likely make it then you will most through your cash flow likely make it crunch. through your cash flow crunch. brand profit margins. No matter how much you like a brand, now is the time to partner with profitable brands that are priced right and that will support you with excellent value promotions that will create sales.

I speak to salon owners who think their brands are profitable until I ask what the percentage cost of goods for a treatment is and they are not sure, or they think that 30% to 40 % is a good percentage cost of goods.

Well, it’s not. A 10% to 20% maximum cost of goods average is where you should be, with retail at 50% to 55% cost of goods. Also, supporting local suppliers is a sustainability initiative on its own, so consider carefully where you can rather support your local suppliers.

Cut expenses Get ruthless and look at everything from consumables usage and pricing, laundry costs, insurance, Wifi, rent, staff salaries and so much more. At this point I am sure you are

Spa Focus

31

Get obsessed. Sit with your team and until you have a solid plan on how to increase revenue by at least 20%, don’t stop. It IS possible.

Retail is a huge opportunity if you have the right brands at the right price with the right margins. Upsells on every single treatment are easy if the team is trained on how to do it.

Sell treatments from most profitable to least profitable. Do you have a list like this? The list should be at reception and with each therapist hairstylistso so everyone knows which treatments make the most money. Sell those first.

Change your treatment offering to meet the ‘unmet’ needs of the market and watch your turnover sky rocket. The bigger the gap between cutting expenses and increasing revenue, the bigger the profit. It’s that simple – the expenses need to go down and the revenue needs to go up, and the profit should grow bigger.

Training How much attention to training are you giving your team or yourself, if you are a solo business? No matter how long you have been in the industry, you simply cannot know it all and what’s most important about training is the morale boost and mental stimulation it gives. Training makes you think about ideas and stimulates brain activity.

The above are simple but powerful tools you can analyze and implement today and I guarantee you will see a difference in your business in as little as two weeks.

But you need to be obsessed and have razor focus.

Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder of The Spa Consultants and co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild, a training network for the industry. marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za online @ saloninternational.co.za

27

Man-cave with a difference

Little over a year old, Medellin Gentlemen Groomers – The Barber Cartel, does not resemble a traditional barbershop in look, feel or concept. NATASHA CHISESE and JOANNA STERKOWICZ infiltrate the cartel to get the details.

It was while watching the TV series, ‘Narcos’, about the notorious Colombian drug lord, Pablo Escobar, that Marlon Naidoo began thinking about the potential of creating a version of a ‘cartel’ for his barbershop in Johannesburg.

Says Naidoo: “It was not my intention to sensationalise the ‘drug cartel’ and its activities but rather to associate it to a man-cave set up, where men and boys would feel comfortable. Where they would be willing (and find it cool) to have their grooming done. So, with the ultimate goal being to attract and win over a loyal following of customers, the concept of The Barber Cartel was born. We then sat down and threw around ideas on how we could carry this through in the decor, set up, service offering and experience.”

He points out that Medellin is the name of the Colombian city

28

online @ saloninternational.co.za

For centuries, most teenage boys and men had the view that a male has to look like he is dangerous or capable of danger, to seem cool to other men. Masculinity was built around power, strength and roughness. that was associated with Escobar’s cartel. “Most people know about this association but our focus is on men being their better self and encouraging others to do the same by becoming part of The Barber Cartel.”

Décor and style Some 70 square meters in size and currently employing seven barbers, Medellin is situated in Pineslopes, Fourways. This area was selected primarily for its high volume of traffic.

To create the ‘Narcos’ theme, attention to detail was key and every design element had to work seamlessly together. Medellin’s layout ensured that there is ample space for products, barber chairs, a waiting area and a stockroom.

The colour scheme is a mix of matte black, grey and white.

Tiling and work stations follow the colour theme, with a black and white chequered pattern. Glazed concrete sheeting was used on the floors, and at the heart of the room you will find the Medellin logo.

All the furniture is vintage, with the highlight being a custom made table featuring the Medellin logo. Floating shelves are used to display products, with matte black piping enhancing the vintage rustic look.

The walls are primarily black with grey strokes. A wallpaper illusion of an exposed brick wall is used with typography murals featuring information on Pablo Escobar. This information is not to be taken as idolising Escobar, but to create a system that motivates men to take selfies, known as mugshots in the barbershop.

Subtle lighting brings the cartel theme together by complementing natural light with warm lighting.

And, just when you thought the barbershop could not possibly offer more, the reception desk serves complimentary drinks and triples up as a perfume bar for the man on the go.

According to Naidoo, the interior design goal was to create a barbershop that is family friendly, encouraging a ritual for families going to the barbershop.

Mugshots In this selfie-obsessed world, Medellin clients are encouraged to

have mugshots taken instead.

“For centuries, most teenage boys and men had the view that a male has to look like he is dangerous, or capable of danger, to seem cool to other men.

Masculinity was built around power, strength and roughness. As such, selfies were not very common and mostly seen to be feminine.

“Our mugshot wall seemed like an interesting idea to encourage men and boys to take their pictures without feeling awkward. Not to sensationalise getting arrested but rather to provide the positive alternative, whereby males don’t feel that they need to do bad to get a mugshot taken. Our spin on this is to take a mugshot to capture your ‘best look’ rather than your worst.

We do know that some males, especially the younger generations, seem to think it is fun and cool get arrested and have a mugshot taken,” explains Naidoo.

Personal attention Rather than focusing on pushing huge volumes of clients through the door, Medellin is centred on the customer experience.

Naidoo continues: “It is all about the experience and this has always been the intention.

My wife, Maheshnee Nair, and I were always big on grooming and being regulars at most beauty and grooming establishments, we knew what worked for us and what didn’t. What kept us satisfied and what prevented us from going back. We took our own experience, considered our own needs and began thinking through what we wanted to invoke in customers’ minds and experience when they come through our doors.

From this we built the customer ethos and the unique elements/ touch points that would create it.

“Off course there will always be a need to tweak or enhance our offering as customer needs are everchanging, but again, this is something we

Salon Spa Focus

29

decided from the start to never compromise on.

Very importantly, we will never offer a service or product that we would not purchase for ourselves. I am all about people, and if you focus on the person, the rest will come. So, whereas the list of services and products are mostly common in the barbering world, this cannot be replicated.”

He notes that Medellin has just launched its own booking app, which has proved very popular. Customers can shop for products on the app, as well as book appointments.

The Medellin team plan to open four new stores in 2020, some of which will be franchised. PB

online @ saloninternational.co.za

29

WORLDWIDE

JOB FINDER

www.worldwidejobfinder.com

Looking for a job in beauty, hair, spa or aesthetics in the UAE?

Powered by

Your dream job starts here…

July 25 – 27, 2021 The first online event for professionals looking to work in the beauty, hair, spa or aesthetics industry in the UAE

Attend for

30

Opportunities

Networking

Free seminars

Free taster training

Advice on the Middle East

Recognition

Job portal

Access to recruiters

Find out more: worldwidejobfinder.com

online @ saloninternational.co.za

T HE HOT LIST Blonde all the way

Reversing the colour process

The reformulation of Schwarzkopff Professional’s BLONDME Care line sees the introduction of 3D Bond Colour Reset Creation Technology; creating a safely and gently product portfolio that strengthens removes artificial hair from within. The integrated hair colour 3D Bond Creation Technology without causing works across three integral steps damage to the of a BLONDME Blonding Service, Extension Protection hair.

When mixed German Innovation The Thinning Fight combining Bond Protection, Bond and applied to CHI Haircare Lava 2.0 Hairstyling Great Lengths is offering four new Aveda expands its Invati Advanced Creation and Bond Maintenance for Colour is now part of the Lava Tool gift sets containing a shampoo, range with an Exfoliating Shampoo. the hair,Iron shrinks the artificial colour molecules portfolio. It features greaterultimate care. conditioner and mask to allow clients It isReset designed to thicken hair,hair renew 011 617 2467 back to and theirreduce originalhair size.loss Once been and versatility with to care for their extensions at home. the scalp by the hair has durability temperature control.

Promo Salon Price: £26.50 53%. fromthe £26shrunken colourtouch-activated rinsed andRRP buffered, molecules have been removed from the hair without fear of re-oxidation.

011 305 1600

Damage Control The new no-rinse treatment, Defy Damage Sleepover from JOICO, nourishes hair, fortifies bonds and reduces the appearance of split ends while clients sleep. RRP £20

HJ’s lowdown Not just ‘another plex…’

The Arganplex 3-step system has been formulated on the latest with INOAR’s patented KEM3 Complex, a professional combination of keratin, amino acids, nutrition and products and moisture, to protect and revitalise the hair during, tools you can or after, chemical procedures. Whilst preventing breakage, Arganplex also hydrates the hair from add to your within and reconstructs it. kitbag, use at the Remember your Mask 012 346 1721 backwash or sell OSMO Intensive Deep Hair Repair Mask, which restores moisture and to your clients reconstructs damaged locks, has a new cherry and almond fragrance and gold packaging. RRP £5.65

All out action

Indola introduces ACT NOW! – an environmentally aware, high-performing styling and care range that’s passionate about providing sustainability in the salon. The range is free from silicones and sulfatesurfactants formulas, mineral oils, parabens, artificial colourants and artificial waxes. It features vegan formulas and packaging that is up to 97% recycled.

011 617 2467

In the Thick of It

Shifting Plates

Fresh Fragrance

Magnifier Thickening Spray from R+Co delivers long lasting, lightweight volume and a flexible hold, as well as shine and protection against heat-styling damage.

RRP £58

The max is the latest addition to ghd’s range. It features plates that are 70% bigger than regular styler plates to provide faster and more effective styling.

RRP £179

Authentic Beauty Concept’s first Eau de Toilette for skin and hair is designed to complement an individual’s character with notes of fresh linen, white flowers and powdery violets. online @ saloninternational.co.za

102 / hji.co.uk

31

FASHION

PEOPLE

A reflection of how the world is feeling right now

Striking elegance

32

online @ saloninternational.co.za

67 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

68 / hji.co.uk.co.uk

online @ saloninternational.co.za

33

Styleing

FASHION

“Having spent more of our time at home last year than ever before, the need for physical connection with people is what everyone is craving.

The campaign set became a scene of young friends having fun, laughing and being playful.

True to the brand, the campaign takes on vibrant colours, different hair textures and bright clashes of patterns. The team was drawn to colour, music, movement and something fresh.”

Joey Scandizzo and Andrew O’Toole, ELEVEN Australia’s co-creative directors

34

online @ saloninternational.co.za

69 / hji.co.uk

Styleing FASHION

Hair: Joey Scandizzo, ELEVEN Australia co-creative director Make-up: Kylie O’Toole Styling: Kate Gaskin Photography: Andrew O’Toole, ELEVEN Australia co-creative director 70 / hji.co.uk

online @ saloninternational.co.za

35

FASHION

36

Dispirit Hearts

online @ saloninternational.co.za

Effortless chic

FASHION

Hair: Ijan Davies Emrus, Styling: Bernard Connolly and Desirèe Lederer, Photography: Andrew O’Toole and Jack Eames online @ saloninternational.co.za

37

FASHION

“This timeless collection is simple, pure and beautiful.”

Ijan Davies Emrus

38

online @ saloninternational.co.za

58 / hji.co.uk

INSPIRATION

Life Through a Lens

Guy Tang

to his The cult LA colourist is best known for bringing a unique style ts. Here YouTube education with beautiful pastels and gorgeous brigh he shares six of his all-time favourite colourful creations

 Soft and Delicate “There is something really beautiful about creating a soft delicate blonde like this one – I live for it!”

 Naked Blush “These naked blushy tones are some of my favourites. They are my unique take on a blonde.”

 Depth and Dimension “I love creating silver with violet because it gives the look depth and dimension.”

40

online @ saloninternational.co.za

 Blonde Obsession “I'm completely obsessed with natural lived-in blonde tones like this one at the moment!”

 An All-Time Favourite “This image is one of my favourite looks from this year. It features the Super Power Direct Dye series which really makes the violet shade pop.”

90 / hji.co.uk

 In Harmony “This magenta creates a harmonious look from the root to the ends.”

We hope that you have enjoyed this first edition of Salon International Magazine

Business Trends

41

We would welcome your

feedback. info@saloninternational.co.za

Plus, we would love to recieve contributions for articles to include in future issues.

If you have a collection of work that you would

like us to include, please do send that through for us to use.

Let’s show off the huge pool of talent that is

here in South Africa and show the world how inspirational we can be. info@saloninternational.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za