September 2013
www.probeauty.co.za
Don’t shy away Tackling teenage acne
Treatment reviews Anti-ageing facials
Targeted software What works and why
Medical Aesthetics The nature of needling
Safe tanning Bronze and protect
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CONTENTS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
41
55
September 2013 Regulars
Medical Aesthetics
19 Industry news Local and international news from the beauty front
111 Microneedling An in-depth look at this highly popular procedure
28 Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys Interactive wellness column
119 Body shaping expert visits SA Interviewing Dr Ravi Jain aesthetic practitioner from the UK
107 Hair news What’s hot and happening in the hair industry 125 Product news All the latest launches 130 SAAHSP What’s happening at SAAHSP 132 BHSEA New from the Employer’s Association
111
51
Business 33 Checklist Developing and implementing successful to-do-lists 38 Breeding loyalty What makes a customer return? 41 Cat fight How to deal with staff conflict
Spa Focus 47 Shifting patterns Espa founder Sue Harmsworth’s take on the changing spa landscape 51 Call of the seasons Experiencing Touch spa @ Seasons 55 Managing down times Filling the gaps in your appointment book
Professional Beauty September 2013
5
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CONTENTS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
99
89
Nails 99 Building relationships for life The importance of customer care
Features 26 For the love of it Sally Meyer shares 31 years of business success 61 Outbreak for minors Tackling teenage acne 71 Sun Savvy Safe tanning methods 81 Treatment reviews Anti-ageing facials 89 Technology forward Software – frequently asked questions
61 6
109 Get a whiff Professional fragrances sold or used in salon or spa
Professional Beauty September 2013
71
SOUTH AFRICA’S MOST VERSATILE, DETOXIFYING, CONTOURING BODY WRAP TECHNIQUES.
C Passed for sale within European Union by the United Kingdom poison bureau.
C It is a hypoallergenic, anti-cellulite tightening and firming gel.
C Not tested on animals. C Patricia Clarke gel can be used with G5,
faradic and interferential current in your clinic.
C Clients are measured before and after treatment. C Non sticky, clean application, no smell
and leaves you fresh and dry after the treatment.
C Stays active in the body for up to 8 hours. C
Proven results for more than 30 years.
I bought the KNEE PANTS and my thighs and bum have shrunk from size 34 to 32 in one month! My tummy is much flatter and thinner than before. I have seen remarkable results with Patricia Clarke – it is really working for me. - Maggie Mphele, Sandton. For For more more information information contact: contact: Patricia Patricia Clarke Clarke Johannesburg, Johannesburg, South South Africa Africa Symphony Symphony Health Health cc cc •• Tel: Tel: +27 +27 11 11 793 793 2321 2321 •• Tel: Tel: +27 +27 11 11 792 792 2641 2641 •• Fax: Fax: +27 +27 11 11 792 792 7461 7461 patricianewsum@yahoo.com patricianewsum@yahoo.com •• www.patricia-clarke.com www.patricia-clarke.com •• PO PO Box Box 1158, 1158, Fontainebleau, Fontainebleau, 2032 2032
The success of this amazing body wrap is due to a combination of a Swiss formulation anti-cellulite body contouring firming gel and Neoprene bandages. The compression of the bandages and the active ingredients, strengthening, diuretic and stabilising properties of the gel targets the toxins in the adipose fatty tissue, breaks down the fatty tissue by means of absorption by the lymph duct, so that the unwanted fatty tissue finally passes out through the body. The combination of liposomes, strengthening and diuretic properties stabilise and maintain the contour of the body, helping to avoid a spongy appearance, strengthens the tissues and inner organs. For Men and Women • Home Care Kit available
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LYCRA TIGHTS 70 DENIER • Brings Relief to tired legs – ideal for flights. • All sheer double cover Lycra. • Full boarded flat seams cotton gusset. SHAPE-UP SHORTS SSS-S-M-L-XL -XXL-XXXL
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UNDERWIRE BRA SLIP S-M-L-XL
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BODYSUIT S-M-L-XL
MIDI SHAPER 44820 S-M-L-XL
CAPRICE KNEE SHAPER 44850 S-M-L-XL
CENTRO SHAPEWEAR GARMENT S-M-L-XL
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Enhances the breast shape! Natural and feminine! This bra offers everyday chic styling and an exceptional fit that hugs the breasts and accentuates the cleavage without adding any extra volume. Innovative 3 Dimensional breathable knit fabric creates a moulded bra that feels like a second skin and embodies a woman’s natural curves for absolute comfort. No seams or stitching in the nipple area. Available in chocolate, white, black and nude (fits up to a F cup). For more information contact: Patricia Clarke Johannesburg, South Africa Symphony Health cc • Tel: +27 11 793 2321 • Tel: +27 11 792 2641 • Fax: +27 11 792 7461 patricianewsum@yahoo.com • www.patricia-clarke.com • PO Box 1158, Fontainebleau, 2032
ARM COMPRESSION MID-SLEEVE S-M-L-XL
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WELCOME
J
udging the Professional Beauty Awards this year, I was in awe of the therapists’ professionalism and passion for their jobs. In fact, this was one of the areas where none of the semi-finalists within the category I was judging lost points. It was also wonderfully refreshing to see that the Therapist of the Year category saw the most entries for 2013. What is this telling us? It all positively points to the fact that our industry is being built from the ground level up on passion and commitment. And that is how it should be. Let’s face it – your business is not successful because you chose oyster tiles instead of lilac, nor because you just finished installing a state-of-the-art sauna. It is first and foremost about the therapist. People return because they connect with people. We all hear the stories of how a client followed her therapist wherever she went.
Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079
September 2013
www.probeauty.co.za
P RO F E S S I O N A L
Don’t shy away Tackling teenage acne
Subscribe 9 issues for R429 (SA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970
BEAUTY
Treatment reviews Anti-ageing facials
SEPTEMBER
Targeted software What works and why
2013
Medical Aesthetics The nature of needling
Safe tanning
On the cover Sourced from: www.istockphoto.com
online at www.probeauty.co.za
My motto, and this related to all business, is: find the right staff and you are already half way to achieving great success. And, once you’ve found them, make sure you hang onto them, as true dedication in today’s age is hard to find. What is the saying: “If you want loyalty get a dog.” I disagree, loyalty does still exist; it just needs to be earned. For me the therapist’s attitude towards her job says a lot about the owners. As much as passion filters up in a company, so too does it filter down. Let’s all find passion for what we do and for the people we connect with, and see how things turn around. Enjoy the show!
Publisher Mark Moloney
011 781 5970
Managing Director Yolanda Knott
083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za
mark@probeauty.co.za
Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970
phil@probeauty.co.za
Editor-in-chief Sally Harvey
011 781 5970
sally@probeauty.co.za
Sales manager Belinda Wewege
073 033 8599 belinda@probeauty.co.za
Senior Sales executive Charlene Dickson 082 758 1703 charlene@probeauty.co.za Sales executive - Medical Aesthetics Sally-Jane Nkomo 071 268 2868 sally-jane@probeauty.co.za Art director Ursula Wong
011 781 5970
ursula@probeauty.co.za
Operations manager Barbara Hocking 011 781 5970
barbara@probeauty.co.za
Marketing manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970
stacey@tetradeevents.com
Marketing assistant Palisa Shongwe 011 781 5970
palisa@tetradeevents.com
Sales admin assistant Obey Dube 011 781 5970
obey@probeauty.co.za
Bronze and protect
September cover sec 2013.indd 1
2013/08/23 5:41 PM
The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com
Printers House of Print
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PHYTOMER ASIASPA 07 2011_Mise en page 1 13/07/11 14:19 Page1
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NEWS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
SA doctor presents new non-invasive lift using fillers The ability to lift the face, facial structures and the neck with the use of dermal fillers has never before been demonstrated or published worldwide.
The treatment approach using dermal fillers has predominantly been a global facial approach in order to achieve balance and replace the volume that is lost as we age. Well-known South African anti-aging doctor and one of Allergan’s local country mentors, Dr Alek Nikolic, has developed a new procedure, the BolusLift Technique, which he recently introduced and presented at two international congresses. This was the first time that it had been demonstrated and proved that one can lift the neck and facial structures with fillers. Dr. Nikolic presented at both the AMWC Anti-Aging Medicine World Congress in
Dr Alek Nikolic
Monte Carlo and at the National Congress of the Italian Society of Aesthetic Medicine in Rome in March. At the first congress in Monte Carlo, over 8000 delegates attended the congress and he was one of two South African doctors
who were invited to address the congress. At the congress in Rome more than 1000 doctors attended and he was the only South African doctor invited to present. With the BolusLift Technique, one can produce a lift by using
specific points in the face. An average of just over half-acentimetre lift of the jowls is achieved and a lifting effect of the neck (a noticeable change in the angulation of the neck or skin) can also be achieved.
More beauty consumers using mobiles to search for products and services In June, 816, 482 searches were made on mobile or smart phone devices for queries relating to make-up, skincare, nail care, hair care or fragrance.
The new data from digital marketing agency Greenlight highlights the importance of connecting with potential clients via mobile phones, and of mobile-optimised websites and apps that allow consumers to browse, book appointments and even make purchases onthe-go. The majority of searches are still made on laptop or desktop computers, with 1.3 million beauty searches made through these devices in June. However, this channel is waning - 1.6m
desktop or laptop beauty searches per month were made a year ago. Meanwhile, the number of beauty consumers using mobiles to search for beauty products and services has risen by approximately 63% over the past year, indicating that having a strong online presence no longer just relates to your business’s website, but now stretches across a wider platform, which presents multiple ways to reach clients.
Professional Beauty September 2013
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In brief ■ Marine Spa Distributors partners with ESP: ESP salon and spa software will now also be distributed under the SMsquared Spa and Salon Management umbrella, a part of the Marine Spa Distributor’s stable. Together with ESP, SMsquared will bring affordable software and expertise, with strong support to supercharge spa and salon businesses.
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NEWS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
MUD expands its footprint in Gauteng August celebrated the launch of two MUD (Make-Up Designory) distribution centres in Gauteng Northern Suburbs and the East Rand.
Co-owners of MUD Distribution Centre East Rand, Cindy Brits and Lorraine Meyer.
The owners are delighted about their new business ventures, and are looking forward to catering to professional makeup artists and the public within the designated regions. Well-known Los Angeles make-up artist Sean Conklin will be visiting the East Rand showroom on September
■ The Cosmetics Cop visits SA: Author of 20 books relating to skin care along with CosmeticsCop.com, which review and rates more than 45 000 skin-care and make-up products, Paula Begoun visited South Africa to present her knowledge as well as her line of products – Paula’s Choice – to the market. The range will be available for purchase on line.
The East Rand showroom, situated in the Aston Manor Centre in Aston Manor, Kempton Park, is co-owned by Cindy Brits and professional makeup artist Lorraine Meyer; while the Gauteng Northern Suburbs centre, located at The Business Centre, Rivonia Road, Sandton, is owned by Lindie Vermaak.
■ Novel concept in mobile professional services: The Glamour Gloss Girls is setting a new trend by bringing the glam factor to any event. As a first-of-its kind in South Africa, this nationwide mobile service was founded by experienced make-up artist Justine Isaacson. The mobile styling team, which includes experienced makeup artists, nail technicians and fashion stylists, caters to the requirements of events ranging from corporate incentives to bachelorettes. They can set up mobile beauty bars, nail bars, lipstick bars and hair styling bars and can tailor-make an event to suit any requirement.
Nailmetics launches Covermark On August 12, Nailmetics hosted a champagne brunch for around 40 salon owners to introduce its salon exclusive range – Covermark. As the distributor of dermoceutical range Coverderm, Nailmetics is now to import Covermark, which will be distributed to professional outlets only. The range is small and uncomplicated, but offers
■ One & Only SA receives yet another accolade: One&Only Cape Town was named Best Hotel Spa in Africa & Middle East in the 2013 Travel+Leisure World's Best Awards, confirming it is officially the star Spa in the region.
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Professional Beauty September 2013
perfection in camouflage make-up, a simple yet effective daily skin care routine and total sun protection. “We promise the same unparalleled quality and are looking forward to plenty of mutually beneficial relationships between professional outlets and ourselves,” states owner Marlene Burger.
Lindie Vermaak, owner of Gauteng Northern Suburbs MUD Centre.
4th and the Gauteng Northern Suburbs facility on September 5th. Conklin will be facilitating specific workshops on both soft and dramatic bridal make-up, along with a workshop on photographic shoot makeup. Tickets are available for purchase.
Knock-off brands can damage professional industry South Africa is seeing an influx of “knock-off” brands in the market. The products claim to be the same as the genuine imported range, but are sold at a far cheaper price. Some go as far as having the same colours, coding and bottling of the product to confuse the salon and spa and ultimately the consumer. “This is extremely damaging to the brand name, as well as the credibility of the product,” states Dalize Havenga, owner of CND South Africa, which has been experiencing this problem with the CND brand in SA.
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NEWS
Dr Des Fernandes releases skin care book
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Melinda designs concept to uplift waxing skills
Dr Des Fernandes, founder of cosmeceutical brand Environ, is to launch a book about the science of skincare in September. Written in conjunction with freelance writer Jennifer Munro, Your Skin Factory is aimed at beauty consumers, and attempts to banish the marketing hype and give accurate insight into cosmetic claims about skincare. Fernandes said: “I’m outraged sometimes by
how much hype surrounds normal cosmetic creams and how little they actually do for the skin.” The book will cover issues such as Vitamin A’s fundamental role in skincare, or preventing and reversing the effects of sun damage, and improving scarring.
Dr Des Fernandes
Brain training can enhance professional therapies One of the major reasons people visit spas or salons is to de-stress and have some meaningful timeout. The therapist often plays the role of care-giver and psychologist, dealing with people’s emotional and physical ailments and concerns. Brain Harmonics is a great additional tool that the spa or salon could include in treatment offerings in order to help correct any imbalances in the brain, and also makes the client more receptive to other treatments being performed. Once the
brain is enhanced using this treatment protocol, it will have the ability to react more quickly and appropriately to a given situation. Neurofeedback addresses problems of brain disregulation. They include the attention deficits (ADD, ADHD), anxiety - depression, spectrum behaviour disorders, various sleep disorders, headaches and migraines, PMS and emotional disturbances. It is also useful for organic brain conditions, such as seizures, the autism spectrum, and cerebral palsy.
It can be seen as a personal training session for the brain. Training the brain to function at its maximum potential is similar to the way the body is exercised, toned and maintained. Brain training exercises the neural pathways that allow the brain to have better function in a variety of areas. After the assessment and discussion, training sessions can commence. The whole process is totally noninvasive, with no discomfort to the individual being tested and treated.
In order to successfully uplift the standard of waxing in South Africa, and, at the same time, drive business, Melinda van der Walt of Melinda Waxes has come up with the following creative concept: Melinda Wax Cubicle Conversion. Basically, if one converts their waxing cubicle to a Melinda Wax Cubicle Conversion room, and brands the waxing cubicle to represent the Melinda Wax ranges, all waxing therapists will be personally trained and certified at HeliaD International by Melinda herself. One will also receive business consultancy advice, specialised waxing manuals, and a 10% rebate when ordering the Melinda waxes and consumables range.
Prana introduces Bodyography to its stable Bodyography cosmetics, a full mineral make-up range manufactured exclusively in the US, which is free from preservatives, additive fragrances and other potential skin irritants, is rich in anti-ageing and skin regenerating ingredients, and is not tested on animals, has been making waves in the South African beauty industry for over
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Professional Beauty September 2013
a year. Distribution takes place through beauty schools and make-up academies. In June 2013, the business was bought over to Prana Products house of products. The move is set to launch the Bodyography brand forward into the hands of professional make-up artists, image consultants, students and more retails stores.
AWA R D W I N N I N G P R O D U C T S T O E N S U R E YO UR CLI EN TS WELL- BEI NG IS A U T H E N T I C A L LY M E T.
Imagine a detox mud so effective, your guest will feel the effects within the first 10 min of application. Stimulating, as it is effective on the lymph and circulatory systems. Beneficial in balancing acidity, arthritis and oedema. Work with your guest in building up her immune system with a topical immune boosting body mud. Enriched with a vitamin B-complex, minerals calendula and arnica, extract, it is the perfect application post illness or recovering from adrenalin burn out. Outcome based treatment applications, that turns your spa into a real-time health zone.
Fo r m o r e i n f o r m a t i o n 0 1 1 7 9 1 6 8 9 0 | w w w. a f r i c o l o g y - s a . c o m | i n f o @ a f r i c o l o g y - s a . c o m
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NEWS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Trump Hotels launches wellness programme The Trump Hotel Collection has introduced a three-in-one wellness programme designed to help guests maintain a healthy lifestyle while travelling. Launching on June 17, it incorporates the Travel Fit, Nourish and Quick Bites initiatives. Aimed at making it easier for guests to maintain their fitness regime away from home, Travel Fit makes fitness equipment such as yoga mats, weights and stretch bands available in rooms – on request. Workout clothes for guests who have forgotten their own are also on offer. The Nourish programme introduces a range of gluten-free, organic and vegan dining options
to the in-room menus. The hotels’ minibars have been restocked with a healthierthan-typical selection, and a health-conscious express room service menu has been developed as part of the Quick Bites programme, with a guaranteed delivery time of no more than 15 minutes. Chief operating officer Jim Petrus said: “With the Trump wellness programme, we
Mass market beauty products are losing out to prestige brands
According to the latest research by analyst group Mintel, sales of prestige facial skincare products increased by 9% between 2011 and 2012. At the same time, the women’s mass market beauty sector has shrunk by 0.3% as more clients choose to invest in luxury brands. The research valued the beauty retail market at £1.1bn in 2012, up by 20% from five years previously, and estimates it will grow around 10% in the next four years,
to £1.2bn in 2017. Charlotte Libby, personal care analyst at Mintel, said, “The facial skincare market performed well in 2012, with the prestige and men’s markets displaying particular strength. Prestige products have benefited from the so-called ‘Lipstick Effect’, which has sales of luxury beauty items remaining strong despite the economic downturn.” She added that increased and improved distribution channels are likely to have buoyed the sector.
are effectively eliminating the challenges that can interrupt a healthy lifestyle when you’re away from home.” The introduction of the programme reflects a wider hospitality industry trend of
offering guests healthy lifestyle choices on the road and follows InterContinental Hotels’ decision to launch Even Hotels, a brand dedicated to wellness, in 2012.
Spray tans are safe Recent articles have raised the question of safety of selftanning products, including sprays. The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) has realised that this could be a cause for concern for many people and they reassure the people who use and enjoy these types of products, and those who work in salons, that they and the commonly used ingredient dihydroxyacetone (DHA) are safe. The articles present information from the US, which was reported last year, based on academic studies which do not reflect normal use. However the media does not really explain that the use of DHA in cosmetic products has been reviewed by the European independent committee of scientists, whose role it is to assess the safety of cosmetic ingredients. The group of experts looked at the use of DHA in cosmetic products, and, in particular, the possibility of inhalation from self-tan sprays, and
found that the use of DHA in cosmetic products and in spray cabins is safe and does not pose a risk to health. The articles also wrongly suggest a possible link between DHA and cancer. There are no links between the use of DHA and cancer. It is also important to know that, by law, every cosmetic product must undergo a safety assessment before it is placed on the market in the UK and across Europe. The assessment is carried out by specifically qualified scientists and covers all of the ingredients, the final product, how and where the product is to be used, how often and by whom. Cosmetic products also have to carry instructions or any necessary precautions for use. Of course, when using any product, it is important to follow the instructions on the packaging carefully, and, as with all spray products and any aerosols, they should not be used in a confined space and there should be effective ventilation.
Professional Beauty September 2013
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Î
SALON REVIEW
online at www.probeauty.co.za
For the
love of it Passion and commitment is what drives success in this industry. Sally Harvey chats to beauty veteran Sally Meyer about her life’s work and the success of her salon business.
I
first met Sally Meyer a few years ago at Thalgo’s international training workshop in the south of France, and I thought to myself: Wow - what a dynamic woman. At that stage she had been in the business of beauty for 26 years; to date that figure stands at 31 years, and does she have a story to tell. You know it is no small feat to be invited to France, it is a great privilege. Only a select few are given the opportunity, and that is due to accomplishing top retail
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Professional Beauty September 2013
performance for the brand. With Sally, she has been invited three times already, not to mention the three trips to Germany in acknowledgement of her retail success with Babor. Sally believes she was born to be a therapist. “God has given me the talent and ability to nurture, care and beautify women – an uplifting experience to say the least,” she says. “I love to see how my clients transform as a result of my treatments – gaining real benefits and seeing results.”
Sally started performing door-todoor manicures and pedicures at the ripe old age of 16. Her dream was to study and eventually own her own salon. She has accomplished that and so much more. After completing her diploma at Wits Technikon, she continued her studies abroad, completing an Itec diploma in London under renowned medical, beauty and health specialist Arnold Taylor. This also led to her completing diplomas in
SALON REVIEW
Cidesco, IA, Itec Hons as well as an Itec Teachers diploma. Sally started her salon at the age of 20. Through the years she has had to expand to accommodate her growing clientele. At the age of 23, she became an Itec lecturer, and ran both the school and salon business (after hours) for 14 years. Although Sally used her facility as a practical training ground for her students, she missed having just that personal, one-on-one relationship between her client and herself. She therefore decided to go back to providing a full-time service to her customers and has never I love to see looked back. how my clients Recently she designed and re-built her salon transform as to create a spacious, a result of my upmarket environment, where her clients can treatments – truly relax in the utmost of gaining real comfort (in fact, she first came up with the idea benefits and during our visit to France). seeing results.” She has also introduced a fully equipped hair salon alongside her treatment areas. “Not many people know this, but I also come from a hairdressing background, and have always seen a positive link between these two services,” she says. Sally is all about an intimate, hand-on approach. Her experience through the years has always led her back to the two brands which she believes have truly supported her success with her clients, which are Babor and Thalgo. She has also really excelled in terms of permanent make-up application, and, to ensure she maintains quality standards, she imports her own products in this regard. The same is true of the paramedical treatments, such as chemical peels, that she administers. It is her own recipe, which I am sure will be taken to her grave! And, when it comes to specialised acne treatments, she is a real expert, particularly when it comes to proper methods of extraction. The bottom line is that her clients are extremely happy with her, her service and the results. When asked what she feels makes a client loyal, she has the following to say: “Gain their trust; be honest; and never lie to your client. See the progression slowly – never push your sales until you have gained your client’s confidence.” Sally does not open too early in the morning, but her salon is open till late. “I close when the last client leaves,” she says. What commitment! PB
Professional Beauty September 2013
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Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Preserving youth Dr Gys Du Plessis answers your health, wellness and anti-ageing questions. I am really confused and not sure whether to go for Botox injections to address my wrinkles. It seems everyone is doing it and that those who have been using it for a while look the same. Should it be like that? There are so many stories out there about it being a toxin and that some doctors are using imitations?
I
will try and address your concerns by first clarifying the field and then answering the specific questions left. Botulinum toxin used to relax the muscles causing wrinkles and asymmetry in the face is by far the most popular cosmetic procedure, followed by dermal fillers for volume loss. In the past 10 years the demand for injectables has risen to 90% of all aesthetic procedures, while plastic surgery has gone down to 10%. Botox is the best-known trade name for the protein injected into the muscles that causes temporary paralysis. It is a purified toxin made by clostridium bacteria. The toxin binds inside the microscopic nerve ends of the superficial muscles and prevents the release of acetylcholine from the nerve. This way little to no muscle contraction takes place for a period, and consequently the wrinkles caused by the contraction of these superficial muscles will diminish drastically. After billions of injections over many years worldwide, there is very little proof of any long-term problems or complications. In South Africa the other registered Botulinum A used is Dysport. Both these toxins are produced by bacteria and are two serotypes with different concentrations. In the correct skilled hands, both are equally effective and safe. Unfortunately some of the medical practitioners do use other ‘grey’ toxins. It is vital that the doctor doing the injecting is properly trained and is using a quality injectable. The procedure lasts 15 - 30 minutes in skilled hands, and the effect starts within 48 hours and is maximal after 14 days. The weakness in the muscles usually lasts for three to six months depending on the type of Botulinum, the units used per area, as well as the gender. It usually lasts longer in women and the effect is always reversible. It is usually used for the muscles
causing the frown between the eyebrows, the crow’s feet next to the outside of the eyes, and the horizontal lines across the forehead. Other more specialised areas are the bunny lines across the nose and the marionette lines running down from the corners of the mouth. A very rewarding use for Botulinum is to treat the axilla and palms of the hands for sweating. The effect in this area lasts up to a year and patient satisfaction is very high.
In skilled hands, and the effect starts within 48 hours and is maximal after 14 days. Starting early with Botulinum A injection has a very good preventative effect on lines and wrinkles. It has a positive anti-ageing effect on the skin as well, which can clearly be seen in someone that has been injecting for a few years. In my opinion, the correction of asymmetry of the face and softening of lines is just as important as wrinkle prevention and treatment. This increases the general attractiveness of the face, as well as giving it a more refreshed, friendly and less tired expression. The myth that everyone using it looks the same in the end is something I firmly believe lies with the injecting doctor. If the practitioner knows that every face has its own traits, and honours the ratios of the face as well as the symmetry, the results are always unique, attractive and very pleasing. This is why it is important for consumers to select an injecting doctor with good training, background, experience, who does a holistic consultation beforehand and who has an eye for aesthetics. The success rate is 83%, and the 17% ‘failures’ are mostly due to bad technique or unrealistic expectations.
Side effects are minimal. For example: slight burning on injection, swelling for a few minutes at the site of injection, and small bruises that disappear in days. Any short-term complications like weakness of the upper eyelid, sagging of an eyebrow or asymmetry are usually temporary and some even correctable. The face and future of holistic and integrative medicine is strongly moving towards anti-ageing. It does not only include a good lifestyle, good food, exercise, supplements and hormones but aesthetic procedures, such as botulinum injections, which improves the appearance in tandem with the other measures mentioned above. The emphasis is much more on looking as young as we feel, especially considering that we are on this earth for much longer than in the past. PB If you would like to ask Dr Gys du Plessis a question please email the editor at sally@probeauty.co.za. Selected questions and answers will be published in the following issue of the magazine.
Dr Gys du Plessis has a keen interest in holistic, integrative and aesthetic medicine. He has founded and led two holistic centres in South Africa and is the medical director for Nimue Bioscience International. To touch base with Dr Gys visit: www.facebook.com/drgys1
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Professional Beauty September 2013
Î
PROMOTION
online at www.probeauty.co.za
optiphi launches RENEW Anti-Aging Hand Therapy Shield your skin against UV induced damage, restore moisture an reinstate cellular anti-oxidants.
D
eveloped from the core ethos at optiphi® the Renew AntiAging Hand Therapy targets cellular nourishment and includes SPF 20 for sun protection. Aimed to Restore, Nourish and Shield the Renew Hand Therapy is designed to protect your skin on a cellular level. The core and active ingredients synonymous with optiphi® range of products promote anti-aging and diminish age spots for soft, youthful hands.
benefit, and it is no different with the Renew Anti-Aging Hand Therapy. optiphi Renew Anti-Aging Hand Therapy will promote anti-aging by addressing the following factors: • Scientific skin control and nourishment • Promotion of skin restoration and repair • Effective shielding against photoaging
The science behind anti-aging
At the given concentration of active ingredients, optiphi® Renew Anti-Aging Hand Therapy promises an improved skin texture with better moisture retention. This moisture retention
optiphi is known for scientifically engineering skincare products based upon utilizing active ingredients at optimal concentrations for maximum
Results-orientated hand therapy
leads to improved skin thickness and elasticity, resulting in brightened agespots and ultimately softer, younger looking hands. The UV protection is also included to protect against further damage from photo-aging and anti-oxidant activity. optiphi Renew Anti-Aging Hand Therapy is the most sophisticated hand cream for total skin protection. optiphi® have applied anti-aging principles to the overlooked skin on your hands. No longer will your hands give away your true age! PB
Contact optiphi on 012 667 6244/3 www.optiphi.com
Professional Beauty September 2013
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ĂŽ
BUSINESS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Check Checklists can change your business. Marisa Dimitriadis provides valuable pointers on how to develop and implement successful to-do lists in your spa or salon.
W
ith the nature of business having evolved and changed so much over the last few years, it is impossible for a business, and, especially a salon or spa business, to run efficiently and grow, without the implementation and constant monitoring and evaluation of these checklists. Most salon and spa managers or owners that I speak to on a daily basis keep telling me that their whole day is spent putting out fires and sorting out issues that arise during the day. I can guarantee that, if a comprehensive set of checklists are issued to the entire staff complement, and they are completed correctly, monitored, and evaluated, your job as manager and owner of the business will change. In my opinion, the manager and owner of the spa or salon is there to strategise and drive the business, not to put out operational fires and deal with silly issues day in and day out.
So what is a checklist? A simple and carefully thought out to-do list that assists the manager and owner of the business to assess efficiency of staff and manage their time better. This will enable them to spend less time running after staff to complete their duties.
THERAPIST CHECKLIST WEEK DATE: DUTIES
TUES
WED
THURS
FRI
SAT
SUN
Ensure you have enough: TUES Towels (bath sheets, bath towel, hand towel, bath mats) Mittens Compressors Head Bands Disposable G-String and disposable boxers Enough product & Consumables Cut wax strips Paper towel Make sure that all DIRTY linen has been removed from under bed Clean Floor Clean Mirror, basin counter tops Hand Mirror clean Hot cabbi (water & few drops of lemongrass) Dustbin empty Make sure steamer is filled with distilled water & mag lamp clean Your Vanity is neatly packed according to the cupboard layout Ensure that wax pots & cartridges are full and CLEAN Hot stones are clean Pedicure and manicure tools are clean and sterilized
WED
THURS
FRI
SAT
SUN
Check printed schedule for the day in your note holder See that all client cards are pulled for the day See your target sheet to assess where you are to date & if shortfall, able to plan to catch up
ROOM SET UP
Which person receives a checklist?
Sign
Every single person in the business needs to receive and work from a checklist, from the front desk coordinator, spa therapist and manager to the cleaner.
When your tubes are almost empty, cut the top open use the top to seal again (remember to keep all empty containers) Treatment couch is set up correctly Trolley is set up correctly Know your target for the day Have good energy to do your best in each and every treatment Keep your room neat and tidy Ensure copy of prescription pad in client folders Check your schedule after each client for the day Sell at least one product per client
What type of information is found on a checklist? In this article, we have provided two examples of checklists – one for the general therapist and the other for the front desk. Bear in mind that each salon and spa will have different information > included in the list.
NOTES
Professional Beauty September 2013
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BUSINESS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
FRONT DESK CHECKLIST Why implement these checklists? The psychology of a checklist or to do list alone is very powerful for any person. It motivates and inspires them to achieve more than what is detailed on the list. Have you ever heard the saying that a deadline is the ultimate inspiration? Well it is! The checklists are fool-proof tools to ensure that the job gets done in the way you as the business owner want it to be done. The checklists, if driven and monitored correctly, will allow the manager and owner more time to focus on driving revenue and marketing of the business as opposed to putting out operational fires. A checklist is also an easy and measureable tool to identify potentially serious problems in the business; this is, of course, if the checklists are completed correctly. So, before you embark on this journey of drawing up these checklists you need to commit to ensuring that the lists are accurately and timeously completed. Most times this system fails and this is only due to lack of commitment from the manager to drive the process aggressively until it becomes a habit for all the staff. Making no changes in a business is easy, especially changes that force people to look at how they are doing their job and push them to achieve more and manage their time better. But, once this system becomes a habit and a process that does not require any thought to be performed, it changes the nature of the business and will allow your business to move to a completely different level. As always, make sure to get your staff buy-in and commitment to make these systems work, by showing them how it will improve their lives and the business efficiency and simply uplift the business. I want to leave you with an important statement that I keep repeating, which is often heard. The reason I want to say it over and over again is that I am not sure we all really listen to the words. "If you keep doing things the same way over and over you will get the same results and the only way you can get different results is by doing things differently!" Doing things differently takes people out of their comfort zone. The economy and the industry are certainly not in a position where getting comfortable and complacent is an option. So make the commitment and decision today and drive your business. PB
WEEK DATE: MORNING DUTIES
TUES
WED
THURS
FRI
SAT
SUN
TUES
WED
THURS
FRI
SAT
SUN
TUES
WED
THURS
FRI
SAT
SUN
Check all reported for scheduled shift time Walk through (entire spa) Switch on music Switch on - Rasul room Switch on - Float room Switch on - Pools Switch on - Steam rooms (male & female) Enough filled up lockers for the day Cash up to be done & check float See to it that laundry is counted and sent to be washed Check therapist rooms checklist completed & do spot check Check housekeeping checklist completed & do spot check Update target sheet & put up in kitchen Update spa analysis on a daily basis & email to management Update therapist daily target & put up for therapists to see Follow up on treatment requests (Email) Sms clients for the next day as a reminder for tx Sms clients for birthday’s SIGN
AFTERNOON DUTIES Follow up on payments Do rasul reminders on each computer (outlook) for next day Client cards are completed & signed correctly & loaded into ESP All retail product to be neatened Follow up on treatment requests (Email) Check therapist checklist completed & do spot check Check housekeeping checklist completed & do spot check Confirm lockers to be filled up for next days tx Check stock levels of fresh fruit & milk for next day & signature tea All daily client cards should be filled & pulled for next day
CLOSING DUTIES Switch off music Switch off - Rasul room Switch off - Float room Switch off - Pools Switch off - Steam rooms (male & female) Sleep therapy - electric blankets & lights off Follow up on payments Ensure waterpods closed properly SIGN
Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her at: marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za Tel: 011 312 7840
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Professional Beauty September 2013
The DMK Concept
DMK
believes that the origin of most skin conditions is a result of disharmony within the skin. Using the principles of biochemistry, DMK has formulated a range of treatments and products designed to educate skin to perform like youthful, healthy skin. By matching formulations with the body’s chemistry, the skin is encouraged to respond in a positive manner. DMK’s revolution-
ary concept of REMOVE, REBUILD, PROTECT, MAINTAIN aims to match an individual’s biochemistry with the appropriate skin therapy. Botanical-based paramedical products make up the DMK skin care program.
REMOVE
REBuiLD
pROTEcT
MAiNTAiN
Removes dead skin cell
Rebuild skin by encouraging
Protect the skin from the sun,
Maintain beautiful skin with
build-up.
the skin to function optimally,
free radicals, glycation and
DMK Home Prescriptives
DMK uses enzymatic
enabling cells to stay alive
other environmental factors
which work to prolong the
hydrolysation, a treatment
longer and perform at their
that lead to premature
results achieved by DMK
that transforms dead cell
highest potential. DMK oils,
ageing using potent natural
Professional Treatments. The
material into a weak acid
serums, spritzes and crèmes
antioxidants.
DMK concept provides clients
and flushes it away, bringing
work directly on the skin cells
with lifelong skin management
new skin cells to the surface.
with DMK’s unique ‘direct
programs to incorporate into
delivery’.
their daily lives.
DMK Treatments and products provide skin cells with chemistry that they recognise. It’s a system which, quite simply, makes sense. DMK is the beauty professional’s product of choice. For those whose business depends on generating real results, DMK’s counter intuitive approach to skin care has become a necessity. Hundreds of salons, surgeries and even industry pundits have become converts to the DMK concept. However, the most rewarding accolades are from the hundreds of thousands of people whose lives have been changed forever.
FREquENTLY ASKED quESTiONS: WHAT iS pARAMEDicAL? Your average facial and cosmetic product will most commonly only work topically on the skin whereas ‘paramedical’ treatments work to revise the functioning of the skin by regulating dysfunctions that cause the skin to look as it does, therefore instigating better skin functioning. If you think of the skin as a factory – working too slow (ageing) or too fast (acne) we assess the underlying issues with the aim of encouraging the factory to work at its best at all levels. Paramedical does not focus on a condition it aims to encourage skin to work at its full capacity
•
HOW MANY TREATMENTS WiLL i NEED? Initially monthly treatments may be required with an on going Home Prescriptive program. Everything in life is about consistency. DMK Treatments use a philosophy of ‘make a difference by doing things differently’. We address not only the problem but how it came to be there.
•
WHO uSES DMK? DMK clinics have a high clientele - people whose livelihoods depend on their appearance. We don’t just address ageing and acne; many of our clients come to us who are simply in search of glowing, healthy looking skin.
•
WHAT iS TRANSDERMAL? Transdermal means that the products penetrate in to the voids of the skin where ingredients can be stored. The body can then uptake these ingredients naturally through slow release.
•
HOW STRONG ARE THE pEELS? DMK Peels are offered with the aim of lifting away dead skin cells to reveal a fresh, new layer of skin. DMK Peels are epidermal peels which offer fewer side-effects than other peels which may penetrate deeper.
•
HOW SOON DO i SEE RESuLTS? Results vary depending on the nature and condition of your skin. As in everything in life, everyone responds differently to certain treatments. If you don’t have any skin concerns we recommend two treatments in a row and then a monthly maintenance and Home Prescriptive program in order to get a healthy glow and bounce.
SHOuLD YOu NOT BE uSiNG DMK?
Our 30 day offer
For the DMK offer that’s guaranteed to give exceptional results ENZYME DEAL 1 Buy R10 000 DMK products and get 15% off.
ENZYME DEAL 2 Buy R20 000 DMK products and get 20% off.
ENZYME DEAL 3 Buy R25 000 DMK products and get 30% off.
Great results from our DMK system!
BEFORE
AFTER
For the next month, not only will you benefit from the incredible discounts on DMK, but there’s also an opportunity for the salon owner and best therapist to win a 1 week stay at the luxurious Mondazur Hotel and Spa, San Lameer with all expenses paid including flights, accommodation and spa treatments for 2 persons per prize. For more info, contact DMK South Africa Head Office:
Free international accredited training provided.
www.dannemking.co.za ❘ 011-262 6120 ❘ 082 654 5748
Î
BUSINESS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Breeding loyalty “What makes a customer come back and what makes them vote with their feet and desert a brand?” asks Hellen Ward. What else has me signing up for a loyalty card? There have been some hugely interesting Consistency is a major factor. I’ll happily settle for seven surveys into customer behaviour recently. out of 10 as an overall rating of my customer experience Companies spend thousands to discover how if I get it 100% of the time. they can generate loyalty. In our industry, So what else can we take from our own experiences every therapist needs to develop an intricate understanding and use in the running of our columns of what makes their clients tick to ensure they and salons? Perhaps it’s just important to get that all important re-booking. And it’s not In our industry, stop and think about our clients and their as simple as it sounds. feedback. We are all customers. Every day of our every therapist • Remember small personal details about lives, from when we are children, we decide them (family weddings, occasions, between competing brands, sometimes needs to develop holidays) as well as the big information without even realising. What makes you an intricate (health, work, relationships) if that’s prefer one brand over another? And, what they want to chat to us about. most critically, what will make your loyalty understanding of • Take time out to let them know we’ve disappear in a flash? Convenience could be a what makes their remembered. Critical! key factor, but it’s probably something more • Note down their personal preferences: – atmosphere, people, ambience, location clients tick no music during treatment, always are all contributory factors in the selection has a certain colour polish, wanted to process; it’s not always simply all about the try the peel next time – these are all end product. little details that are ours to own and It’s the little things that add up to make us loyal maximise. to a brand. The small touches which, although • Assess what’s important to them and unnoticed by some, are crucial to others in their them alone and remember to deliver it, decision-making. time and again. Sometimes, for all the intellectual thinking, Each of us has our own reasons for it takes the eyes of a child to get some staying with a brand or leaving it. It’s perspective on what matters to people. Take our own personal beauty X-Factor. my 9- and 11-year-olds. Gourmet Burger The difference comes when people Kitchen or Byron? Byron wins every time. I care enough or have bothered can’t really tell the difference, but for them to figure out what it is that it’s the skinny fries (they prefer them) makes us come back, so and – now this is crucial – the booths. they can ensure we keep Whereas GBK has seats and tables, on getting what we want. Byron has booths where they can The savvy therapist is huddle around one table with their intrepid in her pursuit of friends and leave poor old Mummy to finding out what those nurse a glass of Sauvignon with her reasons for loyalty and iPhone for company. For them, it’s brand selection are and nothing to do with staff or service. ensuring she keeps As we age, what matters to those feet voting in us changes. For me, customer the same direction – recognition is key (I do like places to hers. PB remember me if appropriate). And I’m not alone – a client recently told me that our barman remembering not only her name but how she likes her coffee is a critical element of what makes our salon special. Satisfaction with the treatments wasn’t even mentioned in her appraisal of the salon. Hopefully, that was a given!
Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.
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Professional Beauty September 2013
We are, once again, looking forward to welcoming you to our stand (E30) at Professional Beauty, Johannesburg 2013. Please ask us about our half price Calgel conversion course.
Our business has become more seasonal. The savvy therapist is always one step ahead of her clients.
Calgel
www.cal-mo.com 011 624 1101
0109GAT_PROFBEAUTY.indd 1
2012/07/20 10:57 AM
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BUSINESS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Cat fight Staff conflict can be extremely damaging to one’s business as it directly impacts on morale within the business. Philippa Abbott focuses on how to effectively deal with this tension.
C
lients can sense when there is unrest and it is bound to affect their experience at your establishment. We work in a heavily female-dominated industry so we often have to contend with hormones and emotions running high. We have to ensure that when it comes to dealing with tension among employees that we do not falter by dealing with the problem ineffectively, as this may have a massive negative effect on our businesses.
Recruitment Firstly, we have to make sure that we have a solid and well-thought-out recruitment procedure; and that we are selecting the right staff member from the beginning. Alternately enlist the services of a reputable recruitment agency, one which understands you and the needs of the business. Selecting the correct candidate can save you an enormous amount of time and, essentially, an enormous amount of money.
How do you achieve this? 1. Have interview templates for each position in your spa/salon. This will ensure you do not omit anything. 2. Include qualities and traits you are looking for in a candidate and include a few questions that will help you understand the qualities of the candidate. For example, ask the candidate to describe themselves in three words. 3. Trade-test candidates on every treatment they are expected to do. You cannot tell if a therapist is 100% capable if you only test 10% of the services they will be performing. 4. Write notes for each point so that you remember all aspects of the interview - if you see several candidates in one day it will be very difficult to differentiate one from the other after a long day of interviews. 5. Understand the candidate’s expectations and ensure they understand yours. A large percentage of unhappy staff attribute their unhappiness to companies offering a
job to them which later turns out not to be what they were expecting. 6. Reference checks are a vital element of the recruitment process and should not be overlooked. 7. Once you have selected the most suitable candidate, allow them to interact with your staff before you hire them. Have a “trial day” where the candidate comes in and experiences a day in your establishment. Watch them closely and ask your staff for their feedback afterwards, this will allow your staff to feel like they play a vital part in the process of hiring new recruits. 8. Once you are satisfied that this candidate is the correct fit issue them with an employment contract. Ensure that your contracts are clear, fair and easy to understand. 9. Most importantly be prepared. This is a lengthy process. Build up a bank of good CVs so that when a staff member resigns you are fully prepared and the transition is smooth.
Professional Beauty September 2013
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BUSINESS By following a thorough recruitment process you will be armed with a workforce that shares your company vision.
Added concerns There are other areas that need to be taken into account in order to best avoid conflict in the workplace. Here are a few common problems we encounter and how they can be avoided: Cultural differences: South Africa is a melting pot of different cultures and we have to ensure that all different races, nationalities and religions are respected. A strong code of conduct is vital in this regard. Your code of conduct must identify all your company policies and procedures; but must also highlight your staff’s behaviour at work. Respect and understanding for other people’s belief systems and backgrounds is important. Take time out to train your employees about the different cultures that make up your staff complement. Different training: Across the country different schools and colleges teach our staff different ways of doing things. This results in different levels of standards and work flows for each of the services we offer. For this reason it is vitally important to ensure that all of our treatment procedures are standardised and that each one of them is documented in a Standard Operating Procedure. Treatment room and area standards: Unfortunately, we do not all have the same personal standards and conflict often occurs when one therapist leaves a treatment room or area in a different state to the way she found it. This is why it is so important that you have clear guidelines as to how everything should look and how it should be laid out at all times. A ‘lookbook’ is a tool that comes in very handy in this regard. You should set your spa/salon up exactly the way you want it to be at all times and photograph each and every area. All the images are compiled into a document with an explanation of each photograph, which forms part of your employee handbook. This will become gospel and anyone who does not comply can be disciplined accordingly. Accountability: When no one is held responsible for ensuring a procedure is adhered to, rules are broken and staff can become upset. Take responsibility
for the action. For every process put in place there must be someone accountable to ensure that the job is done. Thorough job descriptions and checklists must exist to ensure standards are being maintained.Consistency is key, and every day the standards must be the same so that the person accountable for each policy is brought to book if any of them are not adhered to. Training and development of staff: This is not always on-going. So often we complain about things not being done properly or unrest amongst our staff, but in actual fact no-one is clear on what they are doing, and they are just going through the motions. Training is vital to ensuring good overall standards. Non-communication: You have got to be vocal. Your staff has to hear from you every day. They must know how they are doing and know what is expected of them on a daily basis. This is the most important piece of the happy staff puzzle.
Deal with it In theory if everything is laid down and policies are adhered to rigorously, there should be absolutely no reason for staff to disagree. So why does it still happen? It’s called the “human factor” and sometimes it’s just unavoidable; even after we have taken all the previous points into consideration. Throw people and personalities into the mix with a sprinkling of oestrogen and emotion and we have the perfect recipe for conflict. For this reason, we have to be able to deal with the conflict when it occurs.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
We have to ensure that diplomacy is our top priority and that we do not take sides. You have to remain neutral and assertive; you cannot be aggressive as this will only aggravate the situation. In the same light you cannot be too passive either. Be direct and tackle the problem head on and as soon as it happens. Follow an easy four-step approach to ensure all tension between colleagues is nipped in the bud as soon as possible. 1. Address: Pull the conflicting employees aside individually and hear them out. Do not interrupt, just listen with an open mind and hear both sides of the story. 2. Investigate: There are always three sides to a story so make sure you gather as much information pertaining to the conflict as possible so that you can assess the situation in its entirety. 3. Discuss: Once you are clear on your plan of action call the employees in for a discussion and let them openly deliberate. You then deliver your verdict and the course of action you are going to follow to ensure that the conflict is resolved. 4. Follow up: Keep an eye on the situation and make sure you follow up with further discussion with the two parties to ensure that all is resolved and that peace has been restored. Even though it feels like you have to run a military operation to avoid tension; bear in mind that there is always time for light-heartedness. Let your employees have a little fun. Promote the benefits of humour at work. Add fun to meetings when you can. Be positive and give your employees praise and feedback. Be positive and you will generate positive results. PB
Always remember: Happy staff = Happy clients.
Philippa Abbott is the owner of Spa Sense Consultants, a business that specialises in consultancy, training and recruitment for the spa and beauty industry. Email her at: philippa@spasense.co.za
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Professional Beauty September 2013
the ultimate professional peeling system for problematic, congested & oily skin conditions Experience a highly effective and non-invasive polymeric peeling system in a course of 8 treatments scientifically developed for problematic skin.
a progressive skin peeling treatment
which dissolves dead skin cells and decongests problematic skin resulting in a smoother, more refined complexion.
with an intense enzymatic exfoliating system
b based on lipase and protease enzymes with stabilized papain, bromelain and botanical hyaluronic acid to prepare the skin ensuring maximum efficacy and optimum results. Ingredients are in a polymeric delivery system that capture actives for slow release and enhanced results
&
penta salaic peel,
our new professional treatment providing a superficial peel for problematic skin. The selection of active ingredients in the polymeric system are salicylic acid, azelaic acid, pyruvic acid, willow bark extract and amphoteric glycolic acid.
before
www.nimueskin.co.za
after
Î
PROMOTION
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Delaying the signs of ageing By Dr. med. Erich Schulte, founder of QMS Medicosmetics Is there any way in which we can delay the signs of ageing and turn back time through just diet and lifestyle alone? “The short answer is: ‘Yes, you can’. A healthy lifestyle and diet can most definitely improve the health and quality of the skin, which then results in a delay in the signs of ageing. But you need to recognise that there are limits with this method, and for best results you need to find ways to boost your skin’s health from within. Nutricosmetics are an excellent way to do this: I specifically formulated Intravital to recondition, regenerate and protect the skin. “Always remember: enjoy life in moderation and you will look younger for longer.” What are the main contributing factors to ageing that we bring on ourselves? “Our lifestyle is the main contributor to how our skin ages. Skin reacts to its external environment and our modernday living is harsh - whether dehydration from air-conditioning, or pollutants in the atmosphere, all can detrimentally impact the skin. We are seeing a real growth in younger clients using QMS Medicosmetics around the world, and, at our central London Flagship Spa, our second largest client age sector is what I like to call the ‘Facebook Generation’ i.e. around 30 to 35, who come to us as they want to be proactive in the prevention of ageing. “Genetic-related factors are also a major contributor to ageing but we are born with these.” With regard to environmental factors – the sun, etc – does this affect everyone in the same way? “Actually no, as the more pigmented your skin, the less harmful are the UV rays. I always recommend that everyone protect their skin, as UV rays are everywhere, and if you are in the sun always use a sun protection that blocks both UVA and UVB rays. Even on a cloudy day 80% of UV rays can pass through, and with water reflection you experience increases of 50%.” Do black skins age better than white skins, and if so, why? “Yes. This is because the structure of black skin is more robust, and therefore more
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About QMS Medicosmetics Over 25 years ago Dr. med. Erich Schulte, a leading traumatologist, cosmetic surgeon and skincare pioneer, founded QMS Medicosmetics. His vision was to design a skincare system that today is regarded as one of the most effective to be found. Formulas combine the highest quality ingredients with cutting-edge techniques, whilst maintaining the core belief that this is a skincare system that is for every day and for everyone. In 2010 the QMS Medicosmetics Flagship Spa & Store was launched in Sloane Square, London.
resistant to the contributing factors that lead to lines and wrinkles. But sunblock should remain paramount.”
How important are supplements? “This is skin regeneration from within. Our diet is generally lacking in certain vital minerals and vitamins, and, as we age, absorption also becomes more difficult. I do recommend Intravital, as each capsule contains the necessary vitamins to recondition, regenerate and protect the natural skin structure from within. The hydrolised collagen is effectively absorbed and skin quality is improved.” What have been the biggest scientific breakthroughs in terms of anti-ageing skincare and techniques, including injections/pills/salon treatments? “Science is an absolute passion of mine, and, early on in my career as a surgeon I understood the importance of revolutionising scientific techniques to improve how skincare performs,” he says. “The future of skincare is improving the delivery system and techniques to enhance the metabolism of ingredients in both products and treatments. My top three breakthroughs are: the conditioning of natural soluble collagens to be able to penetrate the skin, stem cell technology, and electro-galvanic transportation (electric micro-current technology) through the skin barrier without destroying the protective functions.
“Collagen is the most important protein in your skin, 65% of the body’s proteins are collagen and they are responsible for the elasticity of the skin. As a trauma and then cosmetic surgeon I researched wound-healing and found collagen to be highly significant. This led me to develop a method to condition natural soluble collagens so that they can be re-absorbed into the epidermis and be applied topically to the skin, thereby allowing skin regeneration. “Secondly, my two plant stem products, Cellular Marine and Cellular Alpine, are based on revolutionary technology, which has led to a quantum leap in cosmetics. Plant stem cells are highly regenerative and often considered the fountain of youthful skin; it is their self-renewal capacity that is so valuable in anti-ageing skincare, and harnessing their power requires a highly complex process. Cellular Marine (Stem Cell Line Eraser) contains herbal stem cells from the tissue of the Sea Fennel, these contain all essential nutrients and ingredients to protect the skin’s stem cells. The basis of Cellular Alpine eye care is the rare Alpine Rose plant, as it is ideal for the sensitive area around the eyes. “Using plant stem cells is increasingly common in the skincare sector, for the most effective and intensive antiageing it is important to use highquality ingredients that will enhance the
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RADIO-FREQUENCY
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stimulation of new skin cells, improve the skin’s metabolism and protect against premature skin ageing. “E/MC Electric Micro Current technology is driving QMS Medicosmetics’ next generation in rejuvenating skincare. The first product to use this revolutionary technology is Ion Skin Equaliser, which uses a specially formulated serum and a cream, which work in conjunction to generate a gentle micro current of electricity over the skin. These increase the skin’s bioelectrical system, stimulate collagen and elastin fibres, while active ingredients are transferred into the inner epidermal layers through a process that accelerates the metabolism of the skin and maximises its regenerative mechanisms during the night. Ion Skin Equaliser is unique in the skincare sector as the use of “iontophoresis” is more commonly achieved through specialised equipment. This has proved to be one of the most effective products in the QMS Medicosmetics collection. “Treatments that increase skin cell metabolism through the use of oxygen have to be one of the most important developments. I customised our Oxygen Energy Applicator to use 98% pure oxygen, which means you can improve this metabolism rate and enhance the effect of active ingredients used in the treatment.” What is the most effective turn-backtime and anti-ageing regime/treatment short of cosmetic surgery? “Tissue augmentation with the help of skin fillers will have an immediate impact on the appearance of fine and wrinkles. “For a long-term transformation getting a regime in place is key, an optimum skincare regeneration system would be to commence a collagen replacement therapy. Collagen is critical for the moisturising process; it is the protein that keeps skin’s tone, youth and elasticity. The skin’s production of collagen decreases as the skin ages,
“Always remember: enjoy life in moderation and you will look younger for longer.”
leading to a loss of moisture and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. With QMS Medicosmetics you can help reverse the appearance of ageing by addressing the underlying cause – loss of collagen.” What is the optimum age to start an anti-ageing regime and what can we realistically expect to achieve? “From thirty is a good age to start, as from 25 our collagen production starts to decrease, and if you get into a good regime by 30 then you can take around five years off your age. If you start young you can definitely stay young.” Are women more prone to skin problems than men? If so, why? “Yes. It’s all hormonally related. Men hit a problem at puberty. They might get the odd spot or full-blown acne, but then it gradually passes (in general). Women are different, due to the complexity of
their hormonal system, so they might be prone to problems at different stages of their lives.” Are more men taking on anti-ageing regimes? What treatments are there for them, or specific things they should be doing? “The simple answer is yes. Men, and particularly younger men, are taking on more anti-ageing regimes. With QMS Medicosmetics I actually designed the collection to be able to work for men and women of every age, as essentially skin shares the same structure. However, what we do with our skin creates a differentiation in how we should treat it. “For men, keeping skin deeply cleansed, exfoliated and moisturised is the basic regimen, but I would always recommend men to also take our Intravital supplements, as just two capsules a day will help protect skin from damage as well as stimulate regeneration. Treatments to boost circulation such as oxygen facials not only help maintain a healthy appearance but also target any specific issues. QMS Medicosmetics has a strong following in men and we are creating a highlighted capsule collection. Men love the science side and our plant-stem-cell-inspired Cellular Duo are probably the bestsellers with our male clientele.” PB
South African distributor: futurethis 011 022 1658 renate@futurethis.co.za www.qmsmedicosmetics.co.za
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SPA FOCUS
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Shifting patterns Espa founder Susan Harmsworth shares her experience of the changing spa landscape in the light of the global financial crisis.
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eople are more cautious now, when it comes to how they spend their money and what they spend it on, than they were before the recession. There was an era a few years ago when some very big spas, with amazing spaces and very high budgets, were being built. Those spas do still exist, but they are much rarer, and, if they are still being built, you now have to justify it in a different way. Owners now want much more justification per square metre, for
why something is being done and they also want more input. That is not necessarily always a bad thing however, as it makes our industry focus. In good times, when everything is booming, you sometimes don’t look at the financials as closely as you should. During the good years, there was an element of people being profligate with money; there was a lot of waste, whereas now people think harder about things and test the market more, before spending money.
Leaving things too late However, one difficulty at the moment is that in this tough economic climate, owners, developers and investors are not releasing funds until it is absolutely necessary. At Espa, we work on many projects around the world where the spa is part of a larger development: a residential complex, a shopping centre, a marina or a golf course, for example. The spa is then often considered quite insignificant, in the big picture, >
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EXPERT VIEW
and is left too late. This in turn makes the guest’s spa journey much more difficult, and can lead to practical problems, such as a lack of space, because the spa was fitted in when the entire building had already been designed. When we work on a project we therefore try to get in right at the beginning, before anyone has drawn anything, because then we can determine essential factors such as who is going to be using the spa and when they’re going to be using it, and consequently take the client and design journey from there.
A new breed of owners Worldwide there is now also a different type of owner. Many of them are developers, especially in emerging markets, which means they don’t necessarily have experience of building hotels and spas, and are not always familiar with the project process, or even with the financial aspects. A developer who, for example, has a background in retail or real estate, looks at revenue in a completely different way, and if an owner is purely looking at return per square metre, that affects the concept and the design of the spa. It now seems to be going around the
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Worldwide there is now also a different type of owner. Many of them are developers, especially in emerging markets, which means they don’t necessarily have experience of building hotels and spas, and are not always familiar with the project process. world that spas are not as profitable as previously thought. In spite of this, however, many high-end hotels realise that they need a good spa, as the top end of their market are spa users. Research Espa has carried out across the 55 countries in which we are present shows that the top 25% of 5-star hotel guests are spa people. These are the guests who spend the most and who are very savvy about spas. And many owners, particularly owners who use spas themselves, really understand the importance of a good spa and are prepared to spend money on it.
Input from the outside A common problem, however, is that when it comes to spas, developers and hoteliers often allow input from people such as female family members, who they would not normally consult on business matters, and who would not be involved in, for example, the food and beverage side of hotel operations. Because spa is
still seen as a feminine area, men – and the majority of owners are still men – will defer to the women in their lives on this topic. Suddenly everyone then gets involved and everyone has an opinion on how things should be done. These views are often based on a particular type of spa that they visit or products that they use and like, but might not be relevant to the concept of the spa that is being built. Navigating these kinds of situations can be difficult, but building relationships is very important, both for the owner and for the consultant. I would say that about 75% of a successful project is down to what you know and how you execute it, and 25% is about the relationship you build. It’s important for the client to work with someone that they trust and that they actually like, and the financial crisis has meant that clients now, more than ever, want to work with people and brands they feel they can trust. PB
One of the world’s leading spa expert, the British-born Sue Harmsworth is the mastermind behind Espa, the global wellness and beauty brand she founded 20 years ago. www.espaonline.com
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SPA FOCUS
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Call of
the seasons
FACT FILE: Opened: June 2013
When you think spa, you should think water. That is where Touch Spa @ Seasons has just got it right, featuring an oasis of hydrotherapy. Sally Harvey immerses herself in the experience.
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hen it came to this spa, the overall vision was to create a spa based on the four seasons, as the name of the resort is, in fact, Seasons. “In terms of design, we were presented with a basic structure, as there was an existing building already in place,” says spa consultant for the project, Marisa Dimitriadis. “So, we took the existing frame and developed a journey into another world. One of the focal points is the entrance walk over the Bridge of Serenity, which is an immediate wow-factor for every guest,
and sets the scene for a true whole body and mind experience.” What was once a lap pool has also been converted into a gorgeous heated spa experience pool, with bubble beds, jets, and a high-pressure back massage waterfall. The three water treatment pods are a real treat. These pods are fully contained rooms, where a couple or friends could have treatments without leaving the room, as each has its own private shower and bathroom facilities, two treatment beds and a small patio overlooking the eco dam. These rooms >
Design director/Spa consultant: The Spa Consultants Marketing manager: Ula Blom Spa manager: Ula Blom Number of therapists: six Interior designer: Varoom Interiors Brands stocked: Six Sensational Skincare, Spalicious, Babor, Lilian Terry International, and OPI Number of treatment rooms: Five treatment rooms; Three double treatment water pods. Area of spa: 5000m2 Location: Hartbeespoort Facilities (i.e. pool, mani/pedi lounge etc): Manicure and pedicure lounge, Sleep therapy room, Rasul, Flotation pool, Kneipp therapy pools, Ladies and gents steam rooms, Indoor heated spa pool, Outdoor heated Roman pool and relaxation area, Outdoor splash pool, Tanglewood Terrace Restaurant, Spa shop.
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are suspended on the water so they are really gorgeous and offer that extra special touch. I must say that having my treatments in one of the pods truly added to my overall experience of the spa. The seclusion and privacy of this unit really allowed me to escape, relax and unwind. This spa is also truly about water, and you will find water everywhere. There are two Roman rock pools outside - one heated and one cold – set against a gorgeous cascading water garden. Then, inside there is a proper Kneipp therapy treatment area with three different temperature pools - one warm, one cold and one hot. There is also a flotation room and Rasul as well as steam rooms in the change rooms. Then, of course, this spa boasts the real luxury and indulgence of a sleep therapy room, featuring four comfy beds where guests are welcome and encouraged to sleep after their treatments. PB
Contact: 087 150 1888
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SPA FOCUS
The spa’s signature treatment is the Sensational Seasons Hydro Journey: SPRING: Rasul treatment using delectable self-heating sugar scrub for exfoliation. SUMMER: Cool Kneipp pool. AUTUMN: Flotation therapy. WINTER: Warm Kneipp pool. Add your choice of classic pedicure; back, neck and shoulder massage; or Velocity facial treatment to complete your unforgettable journey.
Choose from one of the creative seasonal drinks to accompany your treatment: SPRING: Fruit Smoothie SUMMER: Enerjuice AUTUMN: House blend red or white wine WINTER: Gluwein
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Professional Beauty September 2013
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SPA FOCUS
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Managing down times If we want to see increased profits, we need to work towards filling those empty spaces in the appointment book. Mimmie Cronje looks at creative ways to manage time for greater returns. Be accommodating Maximising the columns in the appointment book is crucial in order to benefit financially. It is always good to place your top retailer in the first column as he/she is the one generating the highest income. Try filling this column before moving to the next. It is also advisable to keep peak times open as you know they will fill up, so start the week’s bookings by filling slower time slots first. We all know that Saturdays and Sundays are normally the most popular days and appointments fill the slots quickly, therefore try to book clients in on late afternoon slots and offer them an additional service for the “inconvenience”. For example, if Mrs. Jones wants a facial on Saturday morning, ask if you could move her to Thursday evening and offer a brow shape or scalp massage with the facial treatment, as she could not get the time slot she ideally wanted. As you know your clients well enough, you will know who would be more likely to accept this change and who best to leave in their favourite time slot.
Make connections When we do what we love doing it comes naturally without much thought or effort. Remember this when booking appointments as this applies to your therapists too. Make sure you know which treatments each therapist really loves doing and book those treatments with them first. There is nothing worse than being a body therapist and having to do a facial treatment, even if you are trained and skilled in doing facial therapy; the same goes for
a facial therapist having to do a body treatment. Retailing, upselling and the rebooking of a client become so much easier when treating the client in the area where the therapists’ passion lies. The client too will be able to sense the therapist’s passion and is more likely to re-book a treatment and purchase the product recommended.
Think special When nearing the middle of the month and finding your appointment book has many openings, a mid- month special can quickly be drawn up and sent to some of the key clients on your database. This can include product and treatment specials or a series of treatments, such as Book 3 Intensive Eye Care treatments and receive the eye serum at 60% off or receive the fourth treatment as a complementary treat. Just remember to rotate the list in order to avoid the same group from getting the same mid-month specials. Facebook is another great way to offer mid or month-end specials, make your offer attractive by adding visuals, client testimonies, adding little quirks and more. Trade exchange is a wonderful marketing tool too. This works well if you form part of a hotel or hotel group or own more than one facility. Midweek full spa days with a nights’ accommodation at >
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the hotel is always popular. Introducing the spa to hotel corporate guests with a quick 15-minute “spa treat” prior to their conference commencing is also a great idea to draw guests to the spa during lunch hour or after the conference. Ideas for this could vary from a nice hand massage to a foot zone pressure massage. Men usually prefer this treatment as the treatment requires bare feet and ladies are not always comfortable having to remove their shoes. The traditional shoulder pressure a great idea massage performed while the guest is sitting fully clothed is to draw guests to still a great way to allow guests the spa during lunch to realise just how tense their muscles are. Incorporating hour or after a bamboo or a calabash while conference could doing the spa treat creates special interest and draws vary from a nice people, even just to watch. hand massage to a It is ideal to draw up a list of 30-minute popular treatments foot zone pressure and add it to the conference massage. package. By keeping treatment times short, guests feel that it will not take up too much time, and you have the opportunity to treat and retail to more clients. magazines, interesting clips, articles Another way of drawing a new group from the web, a book on anatomy and of clients to your clinic is to offer an physiology – a favourite of mine is exchange programme with a trusted Principles of Anatomy and physiology colleague in your vicinity. You simply Tortora Grabowski. refer clients to her clinic for services that The best way to ensure all members you do not offer and vice versa. I know of staff utilise this “information station” your first thought might be that you is to give each therapist a time to share stand a chance of losing clients, but rest once a week on what he/she has read assured that if you offer 5-star services and found interesting. Simply rotate in in all areas, clients will have no reason order for all to have a time to share. This to leave. keeps staff on their toes as to what other The opposite is in fact true. If your cosmetic companies are doing, what client knows you are sending her to non-professional lines offer and claim, another reputable clinic for a service you refresh knowledge on the skin, body, its do not offer she will most likely value functions and systems, and greatly assist your professional advice and appreciate in keeping motivation levels high. the fact that you want to assist her in Training is another way to fill the slower treating specific concerns. I have seen times effectively, not only product house this concept work very effectively in training but new skills as well. Wonderful Windhoek between two clinics. Neither DVDs are available on different massage of them lost a single client and they techniques, sales techniques and more. have been working on this principle for It is quite fun to learn new massage years now. techniques together or simply to learn new movements to incorporate into Time to share standard body or facial massages. And One thing I always suggest when who wouldn’t benefit from having more consulting is to create a library for the sales happen in their clinic? Some of the staff. Your “library” can be as simple as most incredible webinars are available a shelf or two in the staff room or as as well and can really serve to increase elaborate as you want. This serves as knowledge in our field. I particularly love a good place to keep product files, the Dr. Jurist’s webinars. SOP manual and then, of course, trade
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SPA FOCUS
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Signature sells Your “signature” or exclusive treatment can also receive a bit of attention during slow times as this should be the one thing that draws the crowds and sets you apart from the rest. Allow therapists to perform and receive this treatment from time to time. Always pair a more junior therapist with a more senior therapist as it serves as a good learning school. Make sure all procedures are done correctly and that the treatment remains the same high standard throughout; from the way the bed is set up to the way the client is received; the treatment explained all the way to the actual doing thereof. It is also important to see how each therapist ends off the treatment and what home care advice is given. Working on one another can really help introverted therapists who hardly speak during a treatment to gain confidence by doing and receiving the treatment by one of their peers and seeing exactly what words are used to explain each step.
Time off Last but not least, one should try to allow hard-working therapists and other members of staff to have an early afternoon or two during the quiet times. This will not only be enjoyed and appreciated but build loyalty and serve as an incentive to work hard during those long hours of peak season. PB
Mimmie Lancaster is the owner of Symmetry World, which offers customised consulting and interior design services in all areas from spa planning, development, treatment menus or a simple revamp. Contact her on 082 653 5022 or email: mimmie@symmetryworld.co.za
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“A World Class Event” ANESI Bootcamp 14 - 18 July 2014 Madrid Spain WHO SHOULD ATTEND? Beauty Therapists who have either an ITEC and / or CIDESCO qualifications. Salon and Spa owners who aspire to use the most professional skin and body brands in their businesses. BENEFITS OF ATTENDING: BOOTCAMP OVERVIEW:
An outstanding opportunity to receive professional education from International experts at one of the leading Skin Care Laboratory’s in Madrid Spain, while taking in the sights of Madrid in summer.
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TEENAGE ACNE
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Outbreak for minors
pics courtesy: anesi
Acne is a common denominator among teenagers, and it is a fact that all teens will suffer from breakouts at some point during puberty. Helena Raats reports.
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or the average teen, an acne outbreak knocks their selfconfidence, making it hard to interact socially or to even make eye contact with peers. In extreme cases acne can be almost downright debilitating, a scourge that causes great anxiety and emotional agony. All this at an age where one is the most critical about their appearance and has to cope with the increasing pressure to grow up fast and beautiful. TheraVine business development manager, Annelise Ormerod, believes that many salons and spas in South Africa have a self-imposed age restriction of 16 years,
which is causing them to miss out on a complete market segment. By not targeting teenagers, salons and spas are missing out on potentially big business – 85-90% of all teens will suffer from acne regardless of ethnic background, nationality or gender. It is therefore safe to assume that this untapped client base could be an important source of income. More often than not, mothers will turn to their trusted skincare professional for assistance and proper skin diagnosis. While aesthetic technicians and dermatologists are used to dealing with adult acne, scarring and general >
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TEENAGE ACNE
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85-90% of all teens will suffer from acne regardless of ethnic background, nationality or gender.
skin problems, they are not always accustomed to dealing with overemotional, shy and awkward clients. Teenagers require a sensitive approach and a firm hand to assure them that you are in control and hold the key to restoring their self-confidence.
Say what? Teenage acne (most commonly referred to as acne vulgaris) is a temporary skin condition caused by the activation of hormones during puberty. These hormones – dubbed androgens – will cause breakouts or ‘spots’ in most teenagers at some point before the age of 21. In boys the main androgens are testosterone (boys grow faster than girls because they have higher levels of testosterone in their bloodstream). Testosterone triggers bone cells to become more dense and heavier, making boys more muscular, fit and stronger. In girls the main purpose of androgens is for the conversion of oestrogen – oestrogen brings on the menstrual cycle which is notorious for skin breakouts. These churning hormones over-stimulate the oilproducing glands in the skin, thus reducing the efficiency of natural skin exfoliation (the slogging-off of dead skin cells), clogging up pores and causing a blockage. The excess oil basically provides an ideal environment for acne bacteria to flourish and cause inflammation and infection, which appears as pimples or spots.
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Other acne triggers include an inadequate skin care routine, food allergies, poor nutrition and genetic make-up. (If either of your parents experienced acne as a teenager, chances are likely that you will too.) You, as the skincare technician, need to calmly explain to your teenage client (and his parent) that acne is a part of life, completely manageable and can > above: RegimA Skin Treatments shows results in a client with acne, scarring and pigmentation – a marked improvement can be seen after treatment with the Peel & Heal treatment and some home care from the same range RegimA Skincare offers a variety of acne solutions, but the Youth Group of products caters specifically to the needs of teenage skin. right: A’les Toner and Gel from Lilian Terry improves the appearance of problematic skin for teenagers and adults, while O’les Toner and Gel controls oiliness.
Professional Beauty September 2013
Acne will generally appear on the face, neck, back and chest. The physical appearance of acne can be broken down into:
• Comedones: non-inflammatory papules that can be open (blackheads) or closed (whiteheads); • Papules: lesions that are inflamed and can be tender to touch (small, pink bumps); • Pustules: lesions that are inflamed and filled with pus. They can be red at the base; • Nodules: solid lesions that are large, painful and lodged deep within the skin; • Cysts: pus-filled lesions deep under the skin that can cause scarring| and pain.
Unique facial make-up suitable for minor skin imperfections, discolorations, acne, age spots, vitiligo & sun spots
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have serious scarring implications should they not heed your expert advice. Dr Robert Gobac of Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals says that there has been an increase in acne across the board (both in teenage and adult acne): “Everyday stress levels, pollution, the high intake of carbohydrate and ‘wrong’ fats, combined with increasingly hormonally and chemically-treated food, are definite and challenging reasons for increased occurrence of acne and other skin problems.”
Get a grip! Probably the best advice to parents is for them to teach their children proper skin care early on (before the puberty hormones start to kick in). Prompt application of appropriate skin care and acne-prevention routines will help in most cases and any acne outbreak will be contained and cleared up. Sandra Hunter of Pevonia believes that children as young as six years of age can be introduced to skin care. “Acne can already be found in younger skins from age six – it usually starts with
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Many different treatments exist for acne, including benzoyl peroxide, antibiotics, retinoids, antiseborrheic medications, anti-androgen medications, hormonal treatments, salicylic acid, alpha hydroxyl acid, azelaic acid, nicotinamide, and keratolytic soaps. (Source: Wikipedia)
whiteheads (milia) and comedones to 11 years. Some professional products are gentle enough to be used this early on.” “Starting a proper skin care regime as soon as puberty hits can make a significant difference on the skin as well as teach the teen to take care of his/her skin from a young age,” says Sunette Botha of Coverderm. Puberty can start as early as 10 years of age. “I would recommend >
Professional Beauty September 2013
below left to right: TheraVine recently introduced its new Pro-Youth range of 10 products. Optiphi recommends a six-week course of Optiphi peels and the use of its home care, including Ageless Activegel, Moisture Control Light and Protect the Canvas. Dr Gobac Spot TX’s key ingredient Dragon’s Blood has been shown to have a potent antibiotic effect on Staphylococcus Aureus – the bacteria that is responsible for most skin infections.
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TEENAGE ACNE
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Physical acne scars are often referred to as ‘ice pick’ scars. This is because the scars tend to cause an indentation in the skin’s surface. (Source: Wikipedia)
FAR LEFT: Coverderm offers the Perfect Face foundation with SPF20 - should have pic on file LEFT: Provence Cosmetics BioSublime Extrem’ Peel offers enzymatic exfoliation to clear skin impurities and help control acne and blackheads.
for a pre-teen to start visiting a salon from age 10-12 years and definitely before starting a new skincare routine,” Ormerod agrees. “Salon and spas should provide effective deep-cleansing treatments that remove excess keratinisation, prevent blockages and reduce inflammation and improve the overall appearance of the skin.” Acne treatment usually consists of reducing sebum (oil) production, removing dead skin cells (exfoliation) and killing off bacteria with topical drugs, lotions, creams or oral medications.
Taking on the teen So what exactly are we talking about here? Are we talking about very skittish clients with self-esteem problems and worried parents who turn to the skincare professional for a solution? Dermalogica’s Ursula Quinn believes that teenagers might be more open to discussing their personal issues than ever before: “At the Dermal Institute of South Africa we have found that the current generation of teenagers is a lot more self-assured and informed than previous generations.” She suggests that salons and spas should consider hosting teen events. “Get a group of teens together for education on their skin treatment and regimen, the great thing about this is that you then have well-educated committed clients in the future!” Optiphi brand coordinator Faye Lyon agrees, and adds that teenagers are a lot more approachable when their mothers are not with them, so we would advise that mom doesn’t stay for the whole treatment or consultation. “The idea is not to be too clinical with a teenager, but rather relaxed, friendly and approachable.”
“I would advise chatting to the teenager in a private environment without all the staff and clients listening in, as this is an embarrassing concern for them,” Lyon explains. “Keep advice and treatment protocol simple, as teenagers do not like to fuss - so anything too complicated will put them off completely and they just won’t do it properly, rendering the treatment ineffective.” She suggests allowing them to try the product hands-on, and, where possible, letting them feel what their skin feels like after a cleanse, what a serum feels like and what a great skin care product feels like once it is fully absorbed into the skin.
Ericson Laboratoire Acti Biotic Sebo-Mask is highly concentrated with sebo-regulating and antibacterial ingredients. BOTTOM: The Pevonia Spa Teen Blemished Skin range is so gentle it can be used as early as six years of age.
Pitfalls Skin problems can often be tricky to diagnose. While most skin technicians are trained to identify the most obvious skin problems, such as acne, rosacea and pigmentation, it often is not as straightforward as it would seem – one needs to know how to treat a client safely and when to admit that they need a dermatologist for the corrective treatment. Referring a client to a medical specialist is often necessary, but less severe cases can >
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Anesi Soin Dermo Correcteur limits the secretion of oil and eliminates bacteria. The Masque Plantes+Activateur offers a deep peel to renew skin, while the Lotion Concentré Anti Imperfections regenerates the skin.
The Vitality range by Matis is a line for younger skins. It targets radiance and can be used for skins as young as 12 years of age.
often be treated in-salon with home care to back it up. “A good therapist will acknowledge when she is out of her depth and refer her client to a medical expert,” says Matis national education manager, Lisa Charlton. “A therapist’s role is to improve and maintain a healthy skin by suggesting appropriate products, performing a professional deep cleanse, exfoliation and extraction treatments and advising clients how to care for their skin at home. “It is the role of a medical expert – like a dermatologist – to diagnose and prescribe medication to treat the exact condition.” If a client with inflamed, infected or discoloured skin walks through the door, the skin technician should be able to make a decent diagnosis and know if they should recommend the proper skincare products and treatments or call in medical expertise for proper care. When infection is evident – this means there are papules and pustules – the client should be referred to a dermatologist. “Severe redness, swelling, pain, puss accumulation, enlarged lymph-nodes, increased temperature (local and general body) are all signs of infection and the need for immediate medical intervention,” adds Dr Gobac. Quinn says that the biggest challenge therapists face today is the extraction method. “The risk of scarring would be our main concern and that is why therapists should not extract anything that is infected or inflamed.” When your teenage client is suffering from congestion, professional skin care treatments would be advisable to clear congestion and as a preventative measure. A client should be referred to a professional (dermatologist) if the acne is not responding to the skincare treatments, if the acne is getting
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Acne scars are classified in four basic groups: ice-pick scars (deep pits), boxcar scars (angular scars usually on the temple or cheeks), rolling scars (scars that give skin a wavelike appearance) and hypertrophic scars (thickened keliod scars). (Source: Wikipedia)
worse, despite treatment, or if there is inflammation and infection. Says Ormerod: “Salon owners should request additional training from their product house or investigate short courses to assist their therapists in fully understanding acne-related conditions.”
Go mechanical If scarring has already occurred, teenagers might have to take more drastic steps to even out skin. Laser treatments could be viable options once
ABOVE: The Medilase Viora Pristine Diamond-Peel unit for microdermabrasion from Hitech. RIGHT: Hitech’s M22 with ResuFX module is a noninvasive fractional laser for the treatment of acne scars.
Professional Beauty September 2013
the acne is controlled or stabilised by age 21. “Acne scars often need a different treatment approach to achieve the most-effective aesthetic outcome,” explains Naomi Olivier from Hitech Lasers. “Fractional laser treatment is considered as the best option available for safe medium-depth acne scar treatments.” She also suggests microdermwabrasion as an option to improve skin tone and lighten acne scars. It is generally pain-free and no anaesthesia is necessary. PB
For more information on distribution opportunities visit us at: Shop 4 1st floor 222 Brickfield Road Overport Durban Tel: (031) 207 3844 or contact Ayesha: 071 146 8393 Rookaya: 082 775 7786
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Sun-savvy South Africa has the second-highest incidence of skin cancer in the world. The Cancer Association of South Africa (Cansa) reports about 20Â 000 cases and 700 deaths each year. Maggi Michon looks at sun protection products and sunless tanning services that can safely protect and bronze respectively.
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ore and more people are opting for sunless tanning, which can be a safer way of obtaining the bronzed glow that many desire. In light of this, it would be wise for all salons to invest in some form of sunless application to offer clients.
Sunless tanning options Spray-tanning is one of the most popular sunless tanning options. There are two basic techniques: airbrush and high-volume, low-pressure (HVLP). According to Biddescombe International, airbrushing uses a spray gun shaped like a pen or pistol driven by a compressor, and application takes 15-20 minutes. HVLP uses a turbine system and features a pistoltype spray gun. It emits less overspray than airbrushing and is faster, with application taking 6-10 minutes. However, the sound level can be bothersome and the unit may require additional ventilation or cooling. It is possible to use a combination of the two – HVLP for larger body areas and airbrushing for small parts that require more attention to detail. Aerosol sprays can also be applied by a professional for better results and the client can take the remainder home for touch-ups or further applications. According to the Mayo Clinic, sunless tanning pills usually contain the colour additive canthaxanthin, which can turn the skin orange or brown, and cause hives, liver damage and impaired vision. The FDA has approved the use of canthaxanthin in food, because very small quantities are used, but not in tanning agents, which require higher concentrations that can have adverse side effects. Melanotan injections are another possibility. Lesley Smit of Koebana explains that Melanotan is a synthetic hormone that mimics the action of melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) and, even though it is relatively new for general consumer use, no negative side effects have been documented over the past few years. Sunbeds or sunlamp booths are also an option, but are generally not considered to be a safe one, as they emit the same damaging UVA rays as the sun.
Spray application Spraying is usually done behind the door of a cubicle or in a spacious bathroom, says Smit. Ideally, there should be good ventilation, good lighting and a comfortable ambient temperature. She recommends installing a curtain to prevent overspray dust from settling on equipment in
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from all future tans sold will go directly the area. According to Biddescombe, to the bottom line. spraying at a distance of 10-20cm and Smit agrees, adding that salons in at lower pressures will reduce usage and small towns or outlying areas may overspray. find it difficult to use all of the solution Smit emphasises that spraying is before it expires. For these salons, she not difficult to master. With the proper recommends starting with aerosol training and documentation, as well as products and investing in spraying assistance with the first few practical equipment once the client base is applications, anyone can established. learn the technique. Upselling pre- and post-care It is important that It is important products, which generally the knowledge of offer healthy profit margins, spray-tanning thaT the knowledge helps the client achieve does not lie with of spray-tanning does better results and boosts one therapist, the bottom line. but that it is not lie with one When choosing shared and therapist, but that your supplier, Altree the treatments recommends taking are rotated it is shared and the into account several between staff. treatments are factors. One is the This eliminates range, which should the risk of not rotated between include pre- and post-care being able to staff. products, as well as a various service your clients sizes of spray solution. In if the only trained staff addition, salon owners member leaves. She also should consider reliability, notes that an inexperienced training, promotion and or untrained therapist should never be > distribution. required to fill in for an absent therapist. Smit adds that tans develop differently on individual skin types, so be sure to inform your client upfront. The colour result is dependent on three factors: what solution is used – the brand and strength of DHA (dihydroxyacetone, the active ingredient); how much product is sprayed; and how long the client leaves the solution to develop before showering – a minimum of 8-12 hours is recommended. The therapist should note these on the client card, so that adjustments can be made at the next session if necessary. This helps to avoid disappointment and establish good client relationships.
Money matters According to Smit, the initial investment for machine and product is roughly R7000. However, as Cliff Altree of Spraytan explains, spray-tanning is one of the most profitable treatments in any salon because of the speed of application. Altree notes that, in the Spraytan brand, the material cost per tan is roughly R40. Most salons charge between R250 and R300 per tan, resulting in a gross profit margin of about R200 for a 10-20 minute procedure. Once the first litre and a half of solution (about 30 tans) has been used, the capital outlay for the system has been recovered and income
Professional Beauty September 2013
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TANNING The ingredient debate Many solutions use alcohol to speed up drying times, which can result in dry, itchy skin and can affect the result of the tan. According to Altree, if the solution is alcohol-free, it should not contribute to dermatitis in normal skin, as the active ingredient, DHA, has been approved for topical application by the American Food and Drug Administration (FDA). However, the FDA and European authorities have advised that DHA should not be inhaled or ingested, and consumers who spray tan should request measures to protect their eyes and mucous membranes, and prevent inhalation. This means that, to provide the safest experience possible, your salon should offer nose plugs, face masks and goggles, as well as provide sufficient ventilation. Smit cites a study by the Danish Toxicology Centre that showed concentration levels of DHA solution in the air are far lower using HVLP as opposed to spraying booths. However, she recommends caution in sunless tanning and advises that pregnant women avoid it, or provide written consent from their doctor and sign appropriate waivers. >
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Preparation Be sure to advise your clients of the following when they book their appointment, especially those who have not tried sunless tanning before. Clients should wax or shave a day or two before, and should shower and exfoliate the skin just before application, avoiding lotions or deodorants, which can interfere with absorption. This allows the solution to penetrate evenly, reducing the risk of patchy results. The exception to this is to apply a small amount of moisturiser to dry areas, such as hands, feet and elbows, to prevent dark patches from too much solution sinking in. Smit advises applying barrier cream to hands and feet, as well as on large visible moles, tattoos and scars.
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Smit recommends the following safety precautions in salons: • Use of HVLP systems to reduce overspray; • Use of exhaust fans and filters to pull overspray down and away from clients and technicians; • Protection of the eye area when spraying; • Applying a barrier to lips; • Use of nose plugs or filters; • Use of a mask by technicians.
Post-care Smit recommends wiping the underside of hands and feet as soon as the spray has been completed, as it will be difficult to remove dark stains in those areas. Remind the client not to touch the tan while it is developing and to avoid perspiring or wetting the tanned areas until the developing time has passed. To get longevity out of a spray tan, advise clients to moisturise regularly or apply a tan extender. It is also important to advise clients that sunless tanning does not offer any protection from the sun’s harmful rays.
Sun protection While sunless tanning options are a good way to achieve the much sought-after “healthy glow”, they do not provide protection from the sun’s harmful rays. Sun basics According to the World Health Organisation (WHO), there are three types of UV rays. UVA accounts for about 95% of UV radiation reaching the earth’s surface. It penetrates the deep layers of the skin and can cause damage to the structure of the cells, causing aging and skin cancer. It is currently believed that UVA rays are the cause of malignant melanoma, the most dangerous type of skin cancer. UVB cannot penetrate beyond the superficial layers of the skin and is
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The sun is a wonderful thing. It gives us light, warmth and life. Unfortunately, it is detrimental to the skin, causing premature aging, skin damage and skin cancer.
responsible for delayed tanning and burning. It also “significantly promotes the development of skin cancer” (WHO). Short-wavelength UVC is the most damaging type of UV radiation. However, it does not reach the earth’s surface and is currently not a concern.
Types of skin cancer There are three major types of skin cancer which, left untreated, can be fatal. • Basal cell carcinoma: Raised, translucent, pearly nodules that may > crust, ulcerate or bleed.
The secret to the successful sunless tan and profitable venture, lies not only in the choice of product, but also in the correct application. With Koebana, training, service excellence and ongoing support are synonomous with our quality products. Should you cater for a small sunless tanning clientele, why not try our AEROSOL SPRAY TAN, which yields outstanding results, especially when applied professionally. Your clients will love Koebana – Sunkissed, Safe, Sensational.
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• Squamous cell carcinoma: Usually raised, pink opaque nodules or patches that frequently form ulcers or sores in the centre. • Malignant melanoma: Usually small, brown or black, or larger multicoloured patches with an irregular outline which may crust and bleed. Malignant melanoma may occur in pre-existing moles or skin spots. They can also appear like freckles from previously normal skin. This is the most dangerous type, as it can quickly spread to major organs through the lymph or circulation systems. Fortunately, skin cancer is preventable, and 90% is curable.
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Sun
Sun Protection Factor (SPF) According to W.S Badger Company, a manufacturer of natural skincare products, sun protection factor (SPF) is a measure of how well a sunscreen will protect your skin from UVB rays. If your skin would burn after 10 minutes in the sun, an SPF15 products theoretically gives you 15 times the protection, so 150 minutes without burning. However, this depends on various elements, such as sun intensity, skin type and the amount of sunscreen applied. SPF15 filters approximately 93% of UVB rays, while SPF30 keeps out 97% and SPF50 98%. For UVA protection, a sunscreen must be labelled “broad spectrum” or “full spectrum”, which generally means that the product will contain at least one-third of the value of UVB protection as UVA protection. For example, a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 should contain UVA protection to a factor of 10. As most UV radiation is UVA, it is very important to select broad or full spectrum sunscreen. The words “sunblock” and “waterproof” are no longer permitted, as they have been deemed to be misleading and untrue by American Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and other regulatory bodies. UV rays can easily penetrate clothing, so UV-protective clothing, or application of sunscreen under clothing, is recommended. The Cansa Seal of Recognition appears on sunscreens, apparel and sunglasses that comply with strict protection standards.
It’s what’s inside that counts Sadly, many of the sun care brands that we know and love are packed full of chemicals, additives and preservatives
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protection
tips
1
Stay out of the sun between 10h00 and 15h00, when rays are at their strongest.
2
If you can’t avoid the sun, be sure to wear sunscreen with an SPF level of 20-50.
3
Take care to select a sunscreen that blocks both UVA and UVB rays.
4
Apply liberally, as underapplying severely reduces the efficacy of sunscreen.
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Re-apply every two hours, or after swimming, perspiring and towel-drying.
6
Be sure to include the back of the neck, tops of the ears, hands and feet.
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Wear sunglasses with a UV rating of 400. Regularly apply lip balm with an SPF of 20-50.
Wear a wide-brimmed hat and loose clothing made of tightly-woven fabric that will keep you cool.
10
Choose swimwear and umbrellas carrying the Cansa Seal of Recognition.
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UV rays are not the same as heat – your skin can burn even on windy or overcast days.
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Cement, sand, glass, grass, water and snow reflect UV rays, so protect yourself year-round.
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Children under the age of one should never be exposed to the sun.
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Parents of older children must educate caregivers and ensure that children are adequately protected at all times.
that can be harmful to skin and body, which counteracts their protective effects. Mindy Pennybacker, author of: ‘Do One Green Thing: Saving the Earth Through Simple, Everyday Choices’, offers the following advice: “Do choose sunscreens containing titanium dioxide or zinc dioxide as active ingredients. These offer low rates of penetration and provide better UVA protection. Opt for a lotion rather than a spray to minimise inhalation. Stay away from products containing Oxybenzone/Benzophenone-3, Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Padimate O, Retinyl Palmitate, Para-Aminobenzoic Acid (PABA), and products containing ‘fragrance’, which can be a labelling term for toxic phthalates.”
Spot the difference When clients come in for sunless tanning, it is a great opportunity for you to assist them in checking skin spots and moles, which is crucial in prevention and detection of skin cancer. You can offer to help your client check their back, back of arms and legs, neck and head. Here are some tips from Cansa on what to look out for. A: Asymmetry - a mole or mark with one half unlike the other; B: Border irregularities scalloped or poorly defined edges; C: Colour variations and inconsistencies; D: Diameter - larger than 6mm. If you detect any of the above, advise your customer to see their doctor or dermatologist immediately. It is important to note that skin cancer is on the rise among black South Africans. It is most common on the palms of hands, soles of the feet, back of the neck, lips, or on a scar, so the same protection rules apply. PB
DNA VITAL
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Ericson Laboratoire South Africa 011 783 9817/072 302 2879 www.ericson-laboratoire.com
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CRYO CELLULAR BIOTECHNOLOGY
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ANTI-AGEING FACIALS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Face Shaping Ericson Laboratoire has discovered a number of patent ingredients that have been shown to shape the contours and enhance the firmness of the face. Sally Harvey investigates the validity of these claims.
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hen I was informed that I was to experience the Ericson Laboratoire Energy Lift facial, I was intrigued to say the least. I wanted to find out how applying the cocktail of active ingredients present in the treatment creams, serums and masks could actually re-shape and lift the face. How was this possible? During my treatment, the therapist explained. When it comes to growth factors, one of the most important factors is the FGF-2 (fibroblast growth factor) since it exerts the most influence on our skin, facilitating cell multiplication, healing and stimulating the production of collagen. What Ericson Laboratoire has been able to do is create a powerful active ingredient, Linefactor, to protect FGF-2 and reactivate skin synthesis, thus promoting a genuine regeneration of the skin tissue, reducing wrinkles, improving texture and correcting the loss of elasticity. And that is not all - this treatment basically has a lifting and contouring effect to redefine the contours of the face. There are many causes for your face being chubby or “heavy”, such as weight gain, fatigue, pregnancy, hormonal changes or simply it is the
natural form of the face. Beneath the skin, localised fat sets in and slowly moves down the face. The most radical solution to address this is cosmetic surgery, but this treatment approach also shows that it is, in fact, possible to slow the production of subcutaneous fat and increase the production of firming collagen. How? Ingredient Coralline reduces the formation of new adipocytes while improving firmness and skin tone. This ingredient is found in action 2 of the Morpho-lifting treatment – the Morpho-slim Mask and Morpho-slim Serum, attacking localised fat on the cheeks and neck and reshaping heavy areas. After this mask was applied to the skin, I noticed a toning sensation immediately. Action 1 focuses on the application of the Morpho-fill Mask and Morpho-fill Serum, which works to fill and plump hollow areas, especially wrinkles. The addition of hyaluronic acid spheres in the formulation offers a non-invasive “filling” technique, using materials that are perfectly bio-compatible to fill deep wrinkles.
The treatment also makes use of Morphosticks to maximise the “facelift” effect. These constant vibrating sticks will work on: destroying subcutaneous fat, draining heavyfeeling areas, stimulating fibroblasts, toning muscles and increasing the penetration of serums. These sticks are only meant to be used to massage cheeks and neck, working upwards. The eye area and forehead should be avoided. I must say that after the treatment was finished my skin felt amazing. However, the results improved even more when I looked in the mirror a day later. It is advisable to have a series of treatments to achieve optimal results. PB
Contact: Ericson Laboratoire on 011 783 9817
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ANTI-AGEING FACIALS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Super charged Theravine uses super antioxidants and cutting-edge actives to repair and fight against ageing of the skin. Sally Harvey experiences one of its scientifically advanced anti-ageing facials.
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hen I was invited to experience the Theravine Ultravine Advance Cellular Gold Facial, I had always related the brand to its grape-derived ingredients, but what was refreshing to see is that this South African brand is extremely scientifically advanced in terms of the activity of the ingredients used, and also how this treatment went beyond being relaxing to something that delivered results. Let’s first take a look at the basis of the range. Its ingredients, among others, are derived from the South African indigenous pinotage, which contains high concentrations of grape seed polyphenols proven to be 50 times the strength of Vitamin E and 20 times the strength of Vitamin C with regards to their anti-oxidant levels. We all know that anti-oxidants are vital because they help to repair past damage to the skin and assist in the prevention of future damage caused by free radicals. In relation to the professional treatments offered, there are currently 14 facial treatments, 30 therapeutic body treatments and six signature treatments. The facial I got to experience is based on Theravine’s breakthrough antioxidant technology, and promotes the skin’s DNA repair system. A combination of scented creams, serums and balms is applied in a way that promotes pure luxury and relaxation, while key ingredients get to work. The Intensive Exfoliator, a gentle yet effective AHA peel, is applied for 10 minutes during the treatment. This renews and prepares the skin for improved penetration of product, also promoting a more even, refined skin tone. The same product is applied to the hands as well, which are then wrapped in cling film and covered with a towel. After the post skin peel neutralising
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A combination of scented creams, serums and balms is applied in a way that promotes pure luxury and relaxation, while key ingredients get to work. solution is applied to deactivate and end the activity of the peel, the Oxygenating Vine Serum is applied to enliven the complexion, followed by the Nourishing Mango Face Balm, which is massaged into the face and neck for 20 minutes according to a specific massage protocol to help restore elasticity, nourish the skin and encourage cell regeneration. It is now time for the application of the star part of the treatment – the Ultravine Advance Rejuvenating Gold Collagen Film which is left on for 20 minutes. This mask is embedded with pure, soft 24-carat gold and sparkling diamond dust coupled with a concentrated serum infused with concentrated actives to brighten, lock in moisture and fight the signs of ageing. After the therapist removed the mask and applied the final anti-ageing products: Timecare Eye Cream, Ultravine Advance RNS Concentrate, Ultravine
RCS Day Cream and Sun Defence SPF 30, I was ready to face the world again with skin that felt renewed, hydrated and illuminated. This treatment effectively combines cosmeceutical science with the luxury of a spa experience, which, in my opinion, is the way forward, providing clients with time to relax while, at the same time, delivering results. PB
Contact: Theravine on 021 886 6623
ULTRAVINE™ ADVANCE RNS I RCS I ROS Revolutionise the fight against ageing TheraVine™ has incorporated the most recent scientific active complexes that directly act and combat the causes that accelerate and intensify skin ageing. The UltraVine™ Advance range includes 3 cutting edge products achieving superior results.
T 021 886 6623 • F 021 886 6641 info@theravine.co.za www.theravine.co.za
FIRST EVER WORLDWIDE ANTI-AGEING YOUTH ELIXIR FORMULATED WITH PATENTED FIRST EVER METEORITE WORLDWIDESTARDUST ANTI-AGEING YOUTH ELIXIR FORMULATED PATENTEDTHE STELLAR EXTRACT THAT WITH STRENGTHENS METEORITE SKIN BARRIERSTARDUST TO MANAGE CHRONOLOGICAL SKIN AGEING THE STELLAR EXTRACT THAT STRENGTHENS SKIN BARRIER MANAGE Contact: Anesi SkinTO & Body Smart No: 086 112 6374 orSKIN dalize@anesi.co.za CHRONOLOGICAL AGEING Contact: Anesi Skin & Body Smart No: 086 112 6374 or dalize@anesi.co.za
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ANTI-AGEING FACIALS
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Space’s secret youth elixir The Anesi Celestial Secret one-hour facial targets ageing from all different angles due to its exclusive formulation combining the science of meteorite extract with concentrated mineral and vegetal ingredients. Sally Harvey discovers its anti-ageing secret.
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hen I heard that this treatment uses an active ingredient from space, I was intrigued. For centuries meteorites have fascinated scientist and researchers worldwide, and now Anesi has included a revolutionary extract from this mineral-rich rock in its treatment offering. What’s more is that it has also included four additional terrestrial mineral extracts and two vegetal extracts (highly concentrated) to the mix to address all problems associated with ageing skin - sagging, wrinkles and hydration, not to mention pigmentation. How does it achieve this? – well, these ingredients repair, increase the barrier function, and restore collagen and elastin fibres. Before the treatment commenced, the therapist explains the science behind this professional in-salon treatment, and then commences by preparing the skin with the Aqua Vital cleaning range. What is interesting to note is that this particular cleansing product has been shown to increase the penetration of the actives to be applied thereafter. After the skin has been thoroughly cleansed, the Peeling Enzymatique with pineapple stem extract is applied to resurface and improve the skin’s texture, while promoting cellular renewal and also improving penetration of the Celestial Concentrate’s active principles. This serum contains the maximum concentration of the key ingredients in the Celestial Secret regime. It is massaged into the skin after the enzymatic peel is removed,
using remodelling and anti-stress techniques. The next step in the treatment protocol is the application of the Celestial Peel-off Mask. Rich in calcium, argan oil and laminaria algae – this mask has a highly occlusive effect, promoting the penetration of all active ingredients applied, while deeply moisturising and returning radiance to the skin. After the mask has been removed, the therapist applies the Celestial Secret Elixir to the skin. The remaining product in the 5ml tube is given to the client to take home. The key to this treatment is in the type, combination and concentration of the actives used, and the fact that the peel, concentrate and mask have been specifically designed for professional use only. PB
Contact: Anesi on 086 112 6374
Celestial Secret Elixir includes maximum concentration of four terrestrial minerals and two vegetal extracts that help the skin appear firmer and more youthful: Haematite extract – rich in iron. Refills wrinkles from within. Rodochrosite extract – protects cells against UV exposure. Olivine extract – mineral of volcanic origin with anti-stress effects. Smithsonite extract – rich in zinc, helps reduce the appearance of dark spots. Spilanthes Acmella extract – stimulates cell and dermal fibre interaction, refilling skin texture. Beech Bud extract – a natural agent that stimulates oxygenation.
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Take the journey Thalgo has used research and innovation to develop a non-invasive means of lifting and filling the skin. Sally Harvey experiences the de luxe Silicum facial designed to pamper and deliver results.
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opted to experience Thalgo’s Silicium facial, not only because I am just a few months away from ticking 40-plus on my client record form, but because I also really wanted to experience its face-liftlike effect on the skin. The facial commences with Thalgo’s marine immersion phase. Referred to in French as eveil á la mer, this welcoming ritual stays true to its meaning – directly translated as discovery of the sea, it combines fragrant scents and sweeping motions to mimic the smells and movements of the ocean. The Resurfacing Cream forms part of the initial ritual, containing chromium – the next hardest mineral to diamonds – to remove dead skin cells, refine, stimulate circulation and improve the penetration of actives to follow. The massage ritual and mask application form the heart of the professional treatment.
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The key ingredient, Marine Silicium Complex, contains low molecular as well as high molecular weight hyaluronic acid to plump the skin from the both the dermal and epidermal layers of the skin for optimum results. Silicium extract is applied to the lower half of the face. It contains green tea which stimulates drainage of the lymph. As we age, lymphatic drainage starts to decline, particularly around the jawline, which causes toxins to accumulate, leading to that unsightly double chin. After the extract has been massaged into the skin, the hyaluronic filler is applied on targeted areas of the entire face and neck and then massaged into the skin to plump and smooth wrinkles. The Dermastim massage is performed to stimulate the dermal layers of the skin. It is a workout for targeted facial
muscles, achieving oxygenating and toning effect on the skin. A two-fold mask is applied to the skin. A collagen mask is applied to the top half of the face for a plumping action, rehydrating dehydration lines, while the cryosculpting mask is applied over tightened gauze to the lower half of the face. The second mask sets like plaster of Paris, heating up to 43°C for heightened stimulation and activity; lifting sagging skin and plumping deep-set wrinkles. The final step is to remove the mask and apply Silicium cream to the face and neck. Thalgo offers a retail range of products, not only to complement the facial, but to enhance its results. What I found interesting to learn during my treatment is that Thalgo is never about that once-off treatment; it is all about preparing, energising and treating. I was therefore advised to follow a tailored programme: detoxifying facials (MMA to prepare the skin); Cronodetox facials to effectively boost the skin; and then a series (six to eight) of Silicium facials to treat the concerns. As you can see, it is a process that needs to be followed in order to achieve optimum results, while, at the same time, avoiding overstimulation. Each treatment or aftercare product is a stepping stone or building block that moves towards improved skin. Although it is advisable to take the journey, I still felt an immediate improvement in my skin’s texture, tone and elasticity after only one treatment, with the ritual being extremely relaxing. PB
Contact: Thalgo on 011 880 3850
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SOFTWARE
Technology forward
Software, particularly in our business, is becoming an absolute necessity. Chris Parker looks at some frequently asked questions in relation to technology, choice, and functionality.
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At the end of the period you will use all of the daily transactions to calculate staff service and retail commission as well as generate reports to see how well you have performed. You will also send out communication to your clients to remind them of appointments, inform them of news as well as promotions.
Should I use generic retail, accounting or salon/spa-specific software? When talking to owners who are researching software for their salons or spas, we are often quite surprised to find that they are considering software that is not specific to their industry, such as accounting software, general retail software and even software designed for hospitality providers, like restaurants. In my experience, there is almost a 100% failure rate of these types of systems in terms of satisfying the needs of salon and spa owners, and they end up writing-off the money initially spent on these systems and purchasing a system that is designed specifically for their business. When it comes to the wellness industry, which includes beauty salons, nail salons, day spas, hotel spas (amongst other types of spas) and even will cross over to the hair and medical aesthetics arenas, there are core business requirements and processes that are common to all. These include things like detailed client recordkeeping, appointment scheduling, the sale of retail and services, gift vouchers, loyalty schemes, commission calculations, stock control for both retail and professional stock, and communication with clients via e-mail and SMS (among other things). If you take the flow of information in a salon or spa environment it will go something like this: a client calls in to make an appointment. If not already on the system a new client record will be created. Thereafter the appointment will be created for the relevant service and staff member. Once the client comes in and has completed their service they will proceed to “check out” and possibly add a retail item to the sale. Once the sale is completed the information will appear on day-end
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software support is key. You need instant access to a help desk at any time because your business cannot wait 2-3 days for a simple query to be answered. cash up so that you can account for all transactions that took place and ensure that all corresponding money is in the till. Stock levels will have been adjusted throughout the day as stock was sold. At the end of the period you will use all of the daily transactions to calculate staff service and retail commission as well as to generate reports to see how well you have performed. You will also send out communications to your clients to remind them of appointments, and inform them of news, as well as promotions. When the client returns for their next visit the cycle begins all over again, but now you have a history of the client and are able to provide them with a more personalised level of service as a result of tracking all the information from their previous visit. There are many other processes that could be mentioned, but this process makes up the core of what is common amongst salons and spas. With all this in mind, it is very obvious why accounting systems, retail systems and restaurant systems are not applicable when running a salon or spa.
Professional Beauty September 2013
Apart from the different types of salons and spas already mentioned, it’s also worth highlighting that a beauty salon could be run from home or at an exclusive shopping centre. It could even be on a ship, in an airport or be mobile. It could be a standalone branch or belong to a group (or franchise). The common elements amongst all of these include the fact that there are still clients booking treatments with therapists, as well as purchasing retail items and gift vouchers.
Should I use desktop or cloud computing? The question of whether to use desktop software (software installed on your computer) versus cloud computing (software than is accessed via the internet and is not installed on your own computer), is one that is being asked for more and more. Cloud computing is something that we are making use of more and more on a daily basis, and is starting to >
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become the standard way of working. Examples of cloud computing that we use every day will be things like online airline bookings or online movie bookings. To put it another way, DSTV offers the movies on demand option whereby you can pay for and view a new release movie (as long as you subscribe to the service) – this is similar to cloud computing. On the other hand, if you have a DVD player you can purchase your own movie and watch it over and over for as long as you want. The downside is that your upfront purchase will most likely be more expensive, but you will have unlimited access to the movie. To enjoy the movie that you have bought you will need to take the DVD with you and also have your own DVD player, whereas with the DSTV you can just take your smart card and use this as your “log-in” to the DSTV infrastructure that will play the movie for you. One thing, from an infrastructure point of view, that cloud computing does require is an internet connection which will give you access to your provider’s infrastructure in much the same way as DSTV requires you to have a decoder that allows you to access its infrastructure. In first-world countries, cloud computing is fast becoming the first choice for business software in many environments, but in places where internet connectivity is volatile, cloud computing has its drawbacks.
The nature of your business will determine the feasibility of your use of cloud computing. The main benefit is the fact that you can access your data from anywhere, and not only you, but your clients and your staff. This means that a new world of opportunity is open, allowing you to capitalise on things like online bookings and the like. Other benefits include: low maintenance and downtime, as only the server ever needs to be upgraded, rather than every computer in your business and home. Also data backups are now (hopefully) managed by the company hosting your data and thus you don’t necessarily need to do your own backups, although this has other drawbacks, like losing access to your data if you don’t pay your fees. The first downside of cloud computing I want to mention is speed, as this is dependent on your internet
Should I download free software? With the availability of just about anything on the internet the temptation to simply download a “free” piece of software is high. However, there is a cost involved. The cost I am referring to is the time that you will most likely waste in half-heartedly implementing the free software before throwing in the towel and investing in a system that will actually bring value. Keep in mind that the
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implementation of management software is a process and takes time. It is not a TV that you turn on and off at your leisure. Rather it is something that you can influence based on what you put into it and this does take work. Therefore, apart from other benefits (like a quality product and good back-up service) paying for your software motivates you
Professional Beauty September 2013
to invest the time and energy required in order to implement, because your money will be wasted otherwise. With free software, however, if you download it and fail to implement it then you have not lost any upfront money and so the motivation to “make it work for you” is low.
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connection. So, if you are on a very slow internet connection you may find yourself taking a lot longer to perform basic functions, like sales and bookings. The second is downtime. Usually the company that hosts your system will be online 99%+ of the time, but your business is not and whenever your internet goes off then you will go offline and not be able to view bookings, enter sales or do other functions. In an office environment this can be managed as you can simply return to a task later when your internet is back on, but for a point of sale environment your clients will not be as accommodating if you are not able to assist them there and then. The third point is functionality. This may be surprising but compared to desktop software, cloud computing as we know and experience it on a daily basis is fairly new and the system’s functionality has to be built from scratch. When compared with desktop software that has many years’ worth of programming, the cloud computing versions often lack the array of features that the desktop versions offer. We just tend to be so focused on the fact that we can access our data from anywhere, and the other benefits of cloud computing, that we tend not to think about at this point. However, cloud computing will catch up in time and surpass what desktop software can do, because everyone’s energy is going into making this happen.
Should I rent or purchase upfront? Generally speaking there are two ballparks into which software pricing structures fall, namely up-front purchases >
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Should I get my own software custom-developed?
or rentals. Up-front purchases then may or may not charge for support fees or licence fees on a monthly or annual basis. Rental fees just go on indefinitely. In my opinion business software should be accompanied by a support and upgrades structure because the nature of business software is that it is a system (multiple elements and components that combine for a purpose) and implementing software is a process that takes time. This, coupled with the fact that business needs change over time, means that what you want/need today may be completely different in 6, 12 or 18 months. Therefore treating your software provider as part of your team rather than an outside supplier is a far healthier scenario. Whether this is provided as part of the rental or part of an additional fee the service should be considered important and therefore made use of. At what point does your spend on your rental equal the amount you spend on your upfront purchase? Also, if you stop paying your rental do you get locked out of your data, or can you still use your software but just not get any support? Personally, I don’t like the model of compulsory annual
On many occasions over the years I have heard salon owners tell me that they had a friend or a relative custom-build them a piece of software for their business, only to find after six months, a year or five years licence fees as that the programmer has either left the country, become these say that too busy to carry on the project or has simply lost interest, you have to buy because the returns for them are not worth it to maintain your software and then pay for it on an ongoing basis. Therefore, there is a place for it again each year. custom-development but it should be on top of an I think that support existing system that is tried and tested in the services should be market place and the custom-development optional and if not is more tweaking the system according subscribed to the user should still have access to to your needs, rather than building their system. it for you from scratch. Note that cloud computing generally is sold as a monthly service and is also known as Software As A Service (SAAS). The reason being is that by definition you are not supplied with a piece of software that you can install and use on your own without “subscribing” to the service on a monthly or annual basis. You may have started to notice that many software providers that provided installed desktop software using an upfront purchase option have also started to move towards the pricing model of monthly rental type payments. This means that the software is immediately accessible, but over a long period of time you will most likely end up spending more.
Should I use an international or local system? I remember a particular spa group about 11 years ago hiring an IT consultant to help them choose a system. This particular consultant was concerned about choosing our company because we were a South African company rather than an “international” company. The irony of it is that the “international” company that we were competing against for the business is no more and we actually picked up many of their clients over time. When deciding on a software management system you need to look at >
In first-world countries, cloud computing is fast becoming the first choice for business software in many environments but in places where internet connectivity is volatile, cloud computing has its drawbacks. 94
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Affordable, cutting edge, spa & salon management software.
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For a wide selection of sensibly priced, high quality therapy furniture and beauty equipment, call the professionals...
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• User-friendly booking and scheduling management • Client history and relationship management • Advanced employee scheduling and tracking • Comprehensive stock control and supplier history • Complete voucher management • E-mail and SMS marketing with mail merge • Track sales and cash and manage purchasing • Real-time reservation and retail ordering engine
the product and the company that is backing the product. What you will find is that the product is only as good as its local representation in an area. You can therefore have a situation whereby a company, that on paper may appear to have an inferior product to another company, may actually outperform its counterpart because their service in the local market place is better. It becomes a matter of successfully implementing 80%-100% of an inferior product versus 10%-20% of a superior product. Other factors to look into, apart from what the product and company can offer you today, is what they can offer you in 6, 12 or 24 months. You should therefore find out about the vision for the company, as technology is changing the playing field almost daily now and things are shifting very quickly. In South Africa I have seen many “international” systems come and go without making meaningful inroads into our market and instead seeing local systems develop and flourish. Part of the reason is that a local company will be more passionate about its own product than someone who is simply an agent for another company. Therefore the service at all levels will usually be better. My final point on this section is
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Using your web browser means that you can work on a Mac or Windows, and even on a tablet or smartphone.
that software support is key. You need instant access to a help desk at any time because your business cannot wait 2-3 days for a simple query to be answered, you also can’t call at 4am or some other ridiculous hour because of time zone differences.
How can I access my data from home? We often get asked by owners how they can work from home. The most ideal scenario for this is cloud computing, because this means that you can work anywhere, any time without interrupting users at the salon. Using your web browser means that you can work on a Mac or Windows, and even on a tablet or smartphone. There are alternatives that are less desirable but still functional, like using a remote desktop or an alternative third party remote access tool. The problem is that if you only have one computer at the salon then you will take control of that machine and prevent salon staff from working.
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Professional Beauty September 2013
Can I run my business from a tablet? With the advent of cloud computing and mobile/tablet accessibility, the question that is being asked more frequently these days is whether you can use a tablet to actually run your entire business. My answer to this is more no than yes. Even if you have a full cloud computing solution the point of sale/reception environment requires robust hardware that integrates with peripherals like cash drawers, printers, barcode scanners, fingerprint readers and magnetic card readers. I have no doubt that, in time, the mobile devices will start connecting more and more to these peripheral devices, but then the purpose of the tablet’s mobility is defeated as it would need to be “docked” in the reception area to work properly. A tablet should rather be used to supplement your existing system, i.e. for clients to update their personal and medical information, or for staff in the salon/spa to look up client and booking info from a tablet in their treatment room or in the staff room. PB
Chris Parker is the director of ESP Salon & Spa Software - a comprehensive management software system that is used in over 1800 salons, spas and wellness centres in South Africa and throughout the world. Email: chris@esponline.co.za
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NAILS
Building
relationships for life
Relationships are the foundation upon which all businesses are built: how effectively they are nurtured and maintained will inevitably determine the business’s longevity and survival in the market. Sonette van Rensburg emphasises the importance of customer care and professionalism.
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ith many years experience working in the beauty industry, from running my own salon, educating and judging the Professional Beauty Awards, I am very aware of the importance of good proper and professional customer care. It’s all about creating an unforgettable experience for your customer from beginning to end, and making sure you pay attention to detail in every aspect of the beauty business.
The beauty professional
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No matter which career path you decide to follow, as a professional you will be expected to represent yourself and your company in the most professional manner, providing services and client care of the highest quality. You should always be courteous and respectful of your clients and ensure all services are performed with professionalism, diligence and care. With so many beauty establishments to go to, it is important for your staff to make sure there is a point of difference in the way they are treated and the manner in which the treatments are performed – each client needs to experience this in order for you to gain client loyalty. Find out what your competition is failing to offer and make a point to deliver it and much more.
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Clients have a far greater choice and number of places they can go to these days, and are definitely becoming far more picky when choosing the correct place to go for their beauty requirements. Clients have specific needs and expectations, which differ from one client to another. Some may require a quiet, peaceful environment purely to be able to relax and rejuvenate themselves and others may need a quick service during their lunch break. No matter what your client’s needs are, or what type of service or length of time she is spending with you, she still deserves the best service she can possibly receive. Professional practice is therefore of utmost importance and should be maintained throughout all aspects of the business. An establishment with an excellent reputation, which provides high standards of service and customer care, and does not compromise on quality, will most definitely be the most successful.
Greeting and communicating clearly and effectively with clients is essential. You need to make eye contact, use positive body language, speak clearly and make recommendations. Communicate with the client and ask the necessary questions during a treatment. This will ensure that you fully understand their needs and will enable you to accommodate them accordingly. The most important attributes for any beauty professional to have are good communication and interactive skills, professionalism, a positive attitude, and integrity. They need to lead by example, and, most of all, have a passion for the > industry and what they do. www.cnd.co.za
Professional Beauty September 2013
Being professional at all times, and in every aspect of what you do, is what will set you aside from the rest: so always try and be the best that you can be!
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NAILS A beauty professional develops relationships with their clients. In order to gain long-term commitment, these relationships need to be nurtured and maintained. There are certain key elements that are required: • Communication: The ability to communicate with your clients effectively is probably one of the most important abilities you will ever need to acquire in your profession, particularly as you are dealing with many different types of personalities and temperaments. Always communicate effectively, clearly and in a professional manner. • A good listener: We have two ears and one mouth, therefore we should listen more than we talk. Listen to your clients and you will have a better understanding of their needs and requirements, so that you are able to assist them in the best possible way. • Feedback: Without clients, the establishment has no business. It is vital to know how your clients view you, your service, the quality of your work, the establishment, and especially to know if they feel there are any areas in which you or the spa or salon can improve. Feedback helps to identify your strengths and weaknesses, so it is important not view it as negative. Should there be any weak points they can be improved.
always try and be polite when dealing with the general public. Good communication skills convey your professionalism to your clients. Speak clearly and explain things properly when you are asked to. Effective communication prevents misunderstandings makes you look and sound more professional and assists you with giving your clients sound advice. • Client Interaction: You will be communicating and interacting with your client all the time from the minute you first meet until she leaves. Have an expert knowledge of the services and products you and your establishment provide so that you, in turn, are able to pass that knowledge on to your clients with enthusiasm • Greeting: Greet your client with a smile, Welcome her “Welcome to ...................... my name is .....................how can I be of assistance to you?”
• Sincerity and honesty: Always remember that honesty is the best policy - be truthful, do not give incorrect information or mislead your clients in any way. • Cheerful and polite: Always be polite towards your clients no matter who they are or what their age. • Approachable: You should look approachable by smiling, being friendly and welcoming. • Appearance and grooming: Presenting yourself in a professional manner will make you feel so much more confident, which, in turn, will inspire confidence in your clients. Nail professionals should always be a reflection and an example of what they do. This should be present in their dress code, personal grooming, behaviour and attitude. • Good communication skills are vital in order to ensure a good relationship between yourself your colleagues and your clients. No matter how you feel, you should
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• Language: Bad language is unacceptable in a professional environment and is an overall bad reflection on yourself and the establishment. Do not speak to your colleagues in a foreign language in front of a client, it is rude and she may think you are talking about her. • Professionalism: Project a professional image at all times by smiling and being friendly when speaking to your clients. Be polite, and always remember to say please and thank you. • Eye contact: Look your client in the eye when you speak to her. Even when you are in front of the computer, intermittently glance up and make eye contact so that she knows you are interested in her. • Body language: You should always come across as being friendly and approachable to clients as well as colleagues. Be sensitive and aware of your body language, as it can say a lot about your attitude. Take note of other people’s body language and feelings, it will assist you in knowing what approach to take when communicating with your clients and others. >
First impressions are lasting impressions, so they need to be good ones. Etiquette means doing things in a helpful, pleasant and courteous way. Do your assigned task with diligence and efficiency and keep in mind that the customer always comes first no matter what, and always try and assist them to the best of your ability. ✔ Be welcoming: Always be welcoming to all clients no matter if they are existing or new or what their status is, everyone should be treated in the same way, as is if they were all VIPs. ✔ Helpful: Attend to a client’s needs as efficiently as possible whether personally, face to face or on the telephone. ✔ Patient: Dealing with demanding clients and overworked colleagues can be challenging. Being patient will help to deal with these situations and carry out your daily duties. ✔ Pleasant and courteous: Lead by example; nobody wants to deal with or communicate with an unpleasant or rude person. ✔ Time management: Don’t keep people waiting. If you are not able to assist immediately inform them you will get back to them.
WE ARE ON STAND F5 AT THE PRO BEAUTY SHOW JHB Want to know about the products? Call us, email us, ask us at the show. Want advice on some new techniques? Call us, email us, ask us at the show. Ask us how we design products to make your clients more satisfied, your work more satisfying, your creativity challenged. Ask about career advice, how to book solid, how to talk to clients. Come to an educational seminar and get filled up with it. Ask your distributor. Call us direct. That’s why we’re all here.
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• Correct posture: Your posture and the way you carry yourself projects a professional image. Do not slouch or drag your feet when walking and approaching a client. When showing a client in which direction to go, do so with an open hand facing upwards. • Communication words: Speak clearly and confidently, don’t mumble and don’t speak looking down at the floor. Avoid using negative words as you will definitely get a negative response back from your client or the person with whom you are communicating. When asking your clients any questions, the best way to get a positive response and answer from them is to make a suggestion and give them a choice, this will allow you to know exactly how they feel, which will enable you to accommodate their requirements accordingly.
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I truly believe that the smallest things can make the biggest difference. Always remember this when offering a service.
Why do we need to conduct a consultation? It is essential to ensure that you obtain and record all the client’s details as well as all the necessary information regarding the client and her preferences. This will assist the beauty professional: • To be well prepared. • To manage the client’s appointment time. • To save time on the actual appointment date. • To assist the nail technician in determining exactly how to proceed with an effective service and treatment.
Client profile card Objective of pre-assessment It is advisable to conduct the consultation and assessment prior to your client’s actual appointment or at the time of making the appointment. It will save time, educate your client and prevent surprises. By performing a pre-assessment you will be able to: 1. Assess your client’s nails and fully evaluate and meet the client’s needs. 2. Determine your client’s requirements and manage her expectations. 3. Assess and establish what needs to be done. Observation: Assess the client carefully and thoroughly. This will give you the opportunity to determine what needs to be done and to recommend an add-on service if necessary. Look out for any contra-indications that might prevent the treatment from being performed.
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Recommendation: if any special provisions need to be made for difficult or problem nails, advise your client how this might affect the performance of their service and experience or not? • Add-on services - Recommend additional nail services if need be to ensure a better end result. • Charging – Be sure to discuss any additional costs the client may incur if an add-on service is required, so as to avoid surprises.
Once a thorough consultation and evaluation has been conducted and all the necessary and pertinent information has been documented on a client profile card, and the technician knows what needs to be done and has effectively prepared – it is all about creating a memorable experience for your client and a quality result. I truly believe that the smallest things can make the biggest difference. Always remember this when offering a service.
Expectations Tell your client what to expect from their service and treatment. Explain how long it will last and what to expect, such as possible problems which could occur. Explain how to manage these situations during the consultation. Your client may have specific questions for you, make sure you are able to answer them to put her at ease. PB
Sonette has been in the nail and beauty industry for 24 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191
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Micro-needling Dermarollering is a popular treatment that is used by millions of physicians and aesthetic therapists worldwide. The treatment is very versatile, as one may treat many different conditions on the skin very successfully. Karen Ellithorne reports.
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r AndrĂŠ Camirand published the first study about micro-needling in 1997. In this study, Dr Camirand described his experience of treating scars on patients that were darker in comparison to the rest of the skin tone. In his efforts to try and correct this, he tattooed the hyper-chromic scars with a flesh-coloured pigment. After a 12-month period he began to notice that, even though the pigment had disappeared, it was actually replaced by melanin, and the skin texture and colour of the scarred area had improved dramatically. He then began puncturing the scarred area with a tattoo gun without pigment and noticed that the collagen started to break down within the scar tissue and that melanogenasis started to take place. All of his patients who underwent this treatment had a very consistent improvement in the treated area and were very pleased with the results. Shortly after these studies were published, South Africa-born plastic surgeon and founder of Environ, Dr Des Fernandes, introduced a needle stamp that he used regularly in his surgical practice to promote rejuvenation of the skin by inducing collagen production. At the ISAPS congress 1996, Dr Fernandes delivered his first paper on the research he had done on skin-needling of the upper lip. After extensive research the roller was developed and released to the public in 2004. The roller creates hundreds of temporary puncture wounds on the epidermis and also tiny pinpricks on the dermis as it is applied to the skin. This injury instigates the release of arachdonic acid, a chemical messenger that sets off the woundhealing process within the dermis and epidermis.
The micro injuries caused by skinneedling stimulate the body’s natural wound-healing response and stimulate the three phases of wound-healing, inflammation, proliferation and collagen remodelling. It is important to note that with these types of wounding treatments, the deeper the wounding the deeper the healing response will be. >
DermaFix microneedling treatment being performed.
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LEFT: Environ has a specific body roller, which speeds up treatment time when used on larger areas. ABOVE AND RIGHT: The use of Vitamins A and C in adequate doses with needling, both before and after, gives up to 50% better results than simply needling alone. Environ Neutralising Cleanser has been specially formulated to enhance the effects of the anaesthetic cream. RIGHT: Environ Gold Roll-CIT has 260 ultra-fine definitive points for superior results.
The advantages of preforming skinneedling are that the treatment is non-ablative and the epidermis is left intact. The result is that downtime post treatment is between two to three days and that there is no risk of permanent skin damage or sensitivity to UV light. Skin-needling can be performed on all skin types, even thin skin, with the common side-effects post-treatment being redness, stinging and erythema, which generally subsides after twentyfour hours.
Using actives It is proven that, post-needling, the skin is nearly 300% more permeable, so most product houses always suggest the addition of active ingredients to be applied to the skin both during and immediately after the treatment, to enhance the treatment results. Some of the product houses suggest using these products for a continued period post-treatment to enhance the rejuvenating and healing action. Spanish cosmeceutical brand Mesoestetic uses only sterile ampoules for micro-needling, which means it is safe for transdermal absorption. Claudeen Krause, trainer for Mesoestetic, suggests that you apply ampoules before and during rolling for optimal penetration. Included as part of the range is a post-procedure cream, which can be applied immediately after treatment. It is rich in anti-oxidants, Vitamin A (retinyl palmitate), Vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate), Co enzyme Q10,
alpha-lipoic acid and also contains barrier-enhancing ingredients to speed up recovery. “The use of antioxidant therapy post-procedure is very important to protect the compromised skin against free radical damage and to assist with inflammation control,” says Krause. Dr Fernandes feels strongly about the use of active ingredients whilst undergoing a micro-needling treatment because the research work has very clearly shown that the use of Vitamins A and C in adequate doses with needling, both before and after, gives up to 50% better results than simply needling alone. He goes on to say that it would be negligent for any therapist or doctor to do needling on skin that has not been adequately prepared with Vitamins A and C. He believes that disappointing results can be expected if people are not kept on Vitamins A and C for the post-operative period. He points out that, in general, one would need to use a Vitamin A product that has the potential to create a retinoid reaction immediately after needling. “I believe many of the signs that we see after needling and the use of Vitamins A, C and E are those of a retinoid reaction,” he says. He also advises not to use retinoic acid as a form of Vitamin A when needling. This is due to the fact that he has received letters of complaint from
people around the world who have undergone this treatment with retinoic acid and they don’t seem to be satisfied with the treatment experience.
Numbing solutions When preforming micro needling it can be very painful for the patient, depending on the length of needles that are being applied. Dr Fernandes says that he has found a way to maximise the anaesthesia by enhancing the cleansing step of the treatment. He recommends that one thoroughly prepares the skin with the Environ Neutralising Cleanser, which he has specially formulated to enhance the effects of the anaesthetic cream. He suggests cleansing the skin with the neutralising cleanser once or twice, depending on the oiliness of the skin and then further degreasing the skin with alcohol. Then repeat the cleansing routine again with the neutralising cleanser. “This is quite a prolonged preparation, but it is well worthwhile, because you will get a very good result even with the lighter types of anaesthetic creams,” he adds. When it comes to selecting what numbing cream, Dr Fernandes says >
The micro injuries caused by skin-needling stimulate the body’s natural wound-healing response and stimulate the three phases of wound-healing, inflammation, proliferation and collagen remodelling 112
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For additional penetration of active ingredients, you can use galvanic current or electroporation in conjunction with micro-needling to promote the action of the applied active ingredients.
FAR LEFT: DermaFix microneedling of the mouth, before and after six treatments. LEFT: The DermaFix ActiveCellCeuticals Range is recommended for use in combination with the MT Microneedle Roller for optimal results. RIGHT: Microneedle Roller is used after thorough hair washing prior to application of DermaFix Copper Peptide and DermaFix Argan Oil.
that as he is a doctor, he is permitted to use a scripted product consisting of 15% lignocaine and 5% prilocaine that he orders from a compounding pharmacy based in Pretoria. He says that he has also used Anestop, which is more freely available and has found that when one does the preparation as described above, then Anestop works very well. Ursula Volbrecht of DermaFix says that doctors use longer needles (2mm and 3mm) than therapists who are only permitted to use a needle the length of 1mm, so they would obviously require a stronger anaesthetics cream than therapists in order to make the treatment more tolerable for the patient. She generally finds Emla to be adequate for most of the microneedling treatment that she performs. Krause also suggests that a good way to intensify the results is to get the patient to use Emla at home, an hour prior to the treatment; this will assist in increasing the numbing effect.
Vitamin C to reduce hyper-pigmentation in the absence of inflammation. She finds that it works well for sun-induced hyper pigmentation to even out and brighten skin tone. In recent case studies they found significant improvement in hyperpigmentation after only three sessions. For hormonal pigmentation, such as melasma, she suggests that one should rather offer a different treatment protocol to treat this difficult condition, however micro-needling treatments are still very useful in maintaining and improving results during the stabilisation periods. Krause also stresses the importance of always considering the Fitzpatrick skin type and monitoring for excessive inflammation when treating hyperpigmentation. Volbrecht has found good results
with micro-needling for the treatment of hyperpigmentation and says that she has noticed results after about 28 days. She has also noticed a significant response on more superficial pigmentation, whilst dermal or confetti hyperpigmentation can take up to a year or longer to treat. “I see the change in pigmentation as an added bonus, not as the prime reason for doing the needling. In some cases, I have seen pigmentation virtually disappear; in other cases it is just lighter and smaller. In my experience it is never > worse,” says Fernandes.
Treating hyperpigmentation We are all well aware of the significant results that can be achieved with skin-needling when it comes to skin firmness and scarring, but what about hyperpigmentation? Krause says that her company promotes micro-needling with
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The DermaFix MT Microneedling Roller, in most cases, is used as a stand-alone procedure with outstanding results.
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Body focus With summer just around the corner, what can micro-needling achieve on the body? New stretch marks and sun damage, such as on forearms, can be improved significantly. “Use 1.5mm needles once every six weeks in combination with retinol and organic silicone ampoule cocktail. The skin may be treated with lactic acid peel prior to micro needling due to its positive effect on collagen formation,” says Krause. Volbrecht says that when treating the body the same treatment protocol as the face applies whereby the body is treated in sections. Most clients do not need the topical anaesthetic for body procedures. She finds that treatment of scar tissue and stretch marks respond well to treatment. “For additional penetration of active ingredients, you can use galvanic current or electroporation in conjunction with micro-needling to promote the action of the applied active ingredients. However, this is not a requirement,” she adds. Fernandes says that he also uses microneedling for lax skin and stretch marks, and has encountered good results on crepy chests. He always prepares the skin with Vitamin A, C and E oil for a minimum of three weeks, but his preference is three months. When working he uses a 3mm roller because it can be used lightly and he finds it easier to apply than a 1mm or 1.5mm roller. Environ has a specific body roller, which he applies when he has larger areas to treat, as this really speeds up the treatment time.
Combination therapies “Peels complement micro-needling very well,” says Krause. “Peels can be done immediately or up to two weeks prior to micro-needling to enhance the effect. Always carefully consider the Fitzpatrick skin type and monitor for excessive or prolonged inflammation. “For a more conservative exfoliating
Mesoestetic Energy C serum contains ascorbyl glucoside – a stable form of Vitamin C, which means you do not have to concern about light, heat, or oxygen “deactivating” your product. Mesoestetic Stem Cell serums contain vegetable stem cell extracts, rich in amino acids and nutrients, which can prolong the lifespan of human stem cells and improve their functioning.
Peels can be done immediately or up to two weeks prior to micro-needling to enhance the effect. effect, apply a 10% glycolic acid ampoule immediately prior to micro-needling. The needles will enter the skin more easily and the vasodilation, caused by the acid, acts as a natural analgesic, resulting in less discomfort during the micro-needling. Never roll over broken skin, or over skin with frosting present during peel application.” Fernandes says that he has successfully used micro-needling together with Intense Pulsed Laser, LED therapy using 633 and 830nm, Environ DF iontophoresis and sonophoresis treatment and hyaluronic acid applied to the skin immediately post-needling and he has found that the hyaluronic acid gives superb comfort to the patient’s skin. He has also combined Histofreeze for rapid freezing and warming up of the skin which promotes the release of growth
Advanced technologies What is Dermapen? It is the latest version of advanced skin-needling technology. The machine vertically pierces the skin with an automatic vibrating function. The Dermapen has the same physiological action on the skin as micro-needling, however it is said to cause less trauma to the skin than micro-needling and is therefore less painful and uncomfortable for the patient. It is also faster to apply than your manual roller so the treatment time becomes much shorter for each patient. The needles of the pen are disposable to eliminate cross-contamination, whilst they are fully adjustable so that you can adjust the needle length depending on what condition you are treating. The nice thing about working with the Dermapen is that you can work very closely in hard-to-reach places, such as around the eyes, upper lips and nose, the company says.
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factors. He also works with very light acids, where he believes that the pH stresses the keratinocytes so that they release more growth factors. Lastly, he has tried platelet-derived growth factors extracted from the patient. “While I can’t demonstrate any clear differences in results, I truly believe that this is an effective way to enhance your patient’s treatments,” says Dr Fernandes. Fernandes adds that Environ is about to release a product that it has studied quite intensively called Après-CIT, which contains a quadruple peptide and has been found to help improve treatment results significantly. The very best results have been achieved when one works with sonophoresis two days after the needling. This pushes the peptide product into the skin by using a form of kinetic energy. The programme for the face is to do one needling per week with the 1mm or 1.5mm roller, repeated once a week for six weeks. This treatment is combined with Environ’s home treatments, the Vitamin A product, plus the addition of a new peptide complex cream that will be released in the very near future. PB
With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions and Aesthetimed. In conjunction with Sally Durant Training and Consultancy UK, she also offers a range of internationally certified training courses, specifically for aesthetic practitioners, beauty therapists and nurses. Email: Karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
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Body-shaping expert visits SA Dr Ravi Jain, a well-established aesthetic practitioner from the UK, recently visited South Africa. Karen Ellithorne was afforded a one-on-one interview with this skilled practitioner.
When did you first open your aesthetic practice, Riverbanks, and what inspired you to cross over from being a GP to becoming an aesthetics GP?
Who is Dr Ravi Jain? Dr Ravi Jain is the founder and owner of the award-winning Riverbanks Clinic, and in September last year, he branched out into a second clinic in Harley Street, London. He has a special interest in Vaserlipolysis and bodyshaping and was recently in South Africa to host a training workshop for Radiant Healthcare, focusing on cocoon cryotechnology from Spain. Radiant Healthcare is the exclusive distributor for the brand in South Africa.
I opened my practice in mid-2008. Prior to that I practised as a general practitioner for seven years, and have always enjoyed minor surgeries. My interest in aesthetics was sparked by the introduction of a laser to the practice. SmartLipo was how I was introduced to aesthetics, but I have to say the really great success for me has been Vaserlipolysis. I started out by doing injectable treatments on a Saturday for aesthetic patients and just kept ploughing the money that I made from the treatments back into the aesthetic side. Currently the treatments performed in my practice can be broken up into 40% vaser and 45% botulinum toxin and filler treatments.
So what would you say the mission statement of your clinic is? Treatments you can trust - if the treatment does not work, we do not offer it. I also like to say that our core values at Riverbank clinic are honesty, integrity and trust, and really do believe that this is the strength behind our success.
From your website I see that you offer a wide variety of treatment to your patients, but what treatments are you most passionate about preforming? I would have to say that it is Vaserlipolysis. The results that you can achieve with this procedure are outstanding. You are able to work from the armpit to the knee and really give a woman that classic hourglass shape. I am so passionate about Vaser that I have just developed a
European-wide Vaser training programme for all doctors wishing to introduce Vaser into their practice, and, as a result of this, I am currently training doctors in the UK and Europe in this technology.
our core values at Riverbank clinic are honesty, integrity and trusT.
stomach, saddlebags or flabby arms. Cryolipolysis is not surgery, so there is no downtime after the treatment; the results are modest in comparison and it will usually take about 2 – 3 months to see the optimal benefits of the treatment. I have, however, also had many satisfied patients post a Cryolipolysis treatment.
In an aesthetic practice when would you recommend Cryolypolisis and when would you recommend Vaserlypolysis?
Tell us more about your practice and staff?
Cryolypolysis is really for the patient who does not want Vaser or does not require Vaserlipolysis. With Vaserlipolysis it is a surgical procedure and you will see a massive change in the body shape immediately after the inflammation and swelling has subsided. However, Cryolipolysis is used to treat specific areas of stubborn fat, namely the
Riverbanks Clinic is set in a leafy and tranquil riverside spot in East Hyde. The Georgian building which houses our clinic has been extensively renovated to create as much light as possible and to help to create a warm homely feel. We also have wooden flooring. The practice consists of six treatment rooms with an operating theatre on the premises.
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What have you found to be the best way to market your practice over the years? PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY UK AWARDS 2013 Medical Aesthetics Clinic of The Year
In 2009 we entered the best new clinic UK award, through Professional Beauty, London. We won the category and from there our business was almost an overnight success. We included this accolade on all our marketing material and correspondences to potential customers and our business just grew, it was phenomenal! This year in February we won Aesthetics Clinic of the Year at the PB awards dinner at the Hilton Park lane, about which we are very thrilled.
Riverbanks Clinic is set in a leafy and tranquil riverside spot in East Hyde.
Over and above the awards I have always worked with marketing and PR people to ensure that Riverbanks and I are featured regularly in magazine write-ups and editorials. However, I have also found word of mouth advertising to be a very strong tool, and that is why at Riverbanks our core value has always been from the beginning to afford our patients their privacy, in a relaxed, friendly yet always professional environment, to ensure their regular return and referral.
We currently have a staff of around ten, consisting of therapists, aesthetic nurses and anaesthetists.
When you select products and equipment for your clinic are there any specific requirements that you look out for? Efficacy would be most important. Then I would consider the pricing would our patients be able to afford it? How easy the product or treatment is to apply would also be a consideration and what sort of training and back-up does the company offer. Lastly, I would also look at the exclusivity of the brand - is it available in department stores and pharmacies, or is it a doctor-only brand?
What advice would you give to other GPs who want to branch out into aesthetics? Try and find yourself a position in a larger chain of aesthetic practices, which enables you to work there only a couple of days a week. If you are doing aesthetics as part of your existing practice, book a separate day for aesthetic patients. For the first year, I strongly recommend that you try and put everything that you make out of the aesthetic side back into marketing
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Winner: Riverbanks Clinic, Bedfordshire
and PR. When opening, I would also advise you against purchasing too many technologies within the first year of business, rather wait until your clientele is more established.
So what are some of the exciting trends that you see happening in the aesthetic industry in the UK? On the facial aesthetic side, it seems that there is a lot of emphasis on the patient looking natural, post-procedures. On the skin care side, growth factors in cosmetics are still very much around, and PRP, particular in the form of fat transfers, seems to be becoming very popular due to the more natural results that can be achieved. However for me, the most exciting is that non-invasive body shaping is finally achieving the
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results that manufacturers are claiming, and we can now really sculpt and shape the body and assist patients with problem areas.
I took a look at your website and noticed a procedure called the Madonna lift. What does this treatment consist of and who would be indicated for it? The Madonna lift is a procedure that utilises a CO2 factional laser, to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles around the eye area and to lift the brows for a younger-looking eye area. The treatment is great, as the downtime is only a couple of days and it can easily be covered by a large pair of sunglasses. It has nothing to do with Madonna the pop icon, it just happens to have the same name. PB
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ccording to Dov Girnun, CEO of Merchant Capital, the biggest challenge facing SMEs is not start up finance, but maintaining cash flow and accessing working capital to take their businesses to the next level. “One third of SME owners are declined business loans as they do not meet the strict lending criteria of the traditional banks. There was an opportunity for an alternative funding solution to fill this gap; a working capital product for these businesses.”
Success stories: 24/7 Jacobus van der Merwe “The hair and beauty business is all about the latest research, products and personal service. Expert service is easy to deliver, providing the product support is more of a challenge. With my cash injection from Merchant Capital, I was able to really extend our retail experience in store by stocking up on existing lines and introducing some new ones on both the hair and beauty side of 24/7. The increase in product sales has made a noticeable impact on revenue already - and, with each card sale, I’m reassured that I’m keeping up with my pay back commitments.”
So what exactly is a CashAdvance? “It’s a lump sum cash amount paid out to a business today, in exchange for a small percentage of their future card income,” explains Ryan Cohen, Director of Sales and Marketing, “The product is linked to credit and debit card sales and collection is taken as a percentage of each future card transaction until the agreed amount is paid in full.” “Take the local hair and beauty industry. You’re selling indulgence in a climate of conscious spending. The National Credit Act has ensured that traditional banks and lending institutions aren’t as forthcoming as they used to be. But clients still expect you to provide the latest treatments and to stock entire ranges of the newest products, as they hit the market. They also expect quality as standard down to the finest detail, from the décor to the thread count on the towels. What they don’t understand is that cash flow is cyclical. Think about the nail business – no one will put a toe out in Summer without a perfect pedicure. In Winter, the reverse is true – closed shoes are standard and sins can be hidden.” According to Girnun, a thorough investigation of the local hair and beauty industries identified the requirements and success factors and the Professional Beauty Merchant Capital CashAdvance was conceived. In the beauty business, not having working capital is enough to age
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anyone. Trying to access capital for growth from traditional banks is seldom an option - fixed repayment terms, personal surety, interest rates, the slow, complicated, costly process. The result has been stagnation of small business development and, increasingly, closure.
So how does it work? Cohen explains: “The Professional Beauty Merchant Capital CashAdvance supports and fuels business growth. In fact, it’s dependent on it. Because it’s an unsecured product and because it works with a business’ performance, it’s to our advantage that the businesses we fund succeed. Because we collect through the card processor as a fixed % of sales, during quieter months the amounts collected are smaller – so business owners don’t need to worry about making fixed
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payment during slowed trading periods.” According to Cohen, it’s easy to apply, requires no personal surety, has a quick turnaround, and an exceptionally high approval rate. The current turnaround time for funding CashAdvances is 24 to 48 hours. That means that visitors to the ProBeauty expo can not only find inspiration for new ideas and opportunities, but with a Professional Beauty Merchant Capital CashAdvance, they can start implementing them within days. PB
Visit Merchant Capital to find out more in the Link Area at the ProBeauty expo. Or call 011 217 2880 www.merchantcapital.co.za
REJUVENATE, REGENERATE, REVITALISE... with a Professional Beauty and Professional Hair CashAdvance in association with Merchant Capital. In the beauty business, having no access to working capital is enough to age anyone. Clients expect you to provide the latest treatments and to stock entire ranges of the newest products. They also expect quality as standard down to the finest detail, from the décor in the reception area to the thread count on the towels. Trying to access capital for growth from traditional banks is seldom an option – fixed repayment terms, personal surety, interest rates, the slow, complicated, costly process. The Professional Beauty and Professional Hair CashAdvance is different. It works with your business’ performance – so, when business is slow your payments are smaller. It’s easy to apply, requires no personal surety, has a quick turnaround, and an exceptionally high approval rate. The result is a significant reduction in frown lines and wrinkles all round. Call now to pre-qualify with no commitment – no obligation, no cost. That way, you’ll have the capital available the next time you need to buy more stock, invest in new products, hire or train staff, give your salon a makeover… And visit us in the Link Area at the Professional Beauty expo to find out more. 011 217 2880 | info@merchantcapital.co.za
www.merchantcapital.co.za
Facing cancer with confidence
hope is beautiful As experts agree, confidence in your appearance and the opportunity to spend time with other women in a relaxed, informative and fun two hour session can help people feel more able to cope with their treatment and everyday lives. Our workshops are held in over 38 public and private hospitals across SA (and 26 countries worldwide).
Do you know someone we could help? We need your support to reach even more women in their battle against cancer. Donate products and services or volunteer your time to help us to put a smile on their faces and face cancer with confidence. Find out more by visiting our website
www.lgfb.co.za Tel: 011 795 3927 Non Profit Organisation: 067263
LGFB Member Companies: Amway, Annique Skin Care Products, Avon Justine, Avroy Shlain, Bio Oil, Black Like Me, Beiersdorf, Chanel, Clarins, Colgate-Palmolive, Elizabeth Arden, Environ Skincare, Estèe Lauder Companies, Fascination Wigs, Galderma, Indigo Brands, Johnson & Johnson, L’Oréal, Kinky World of Hair, Ladine Cosmetics, Modernhair, NCP Alcohols, Oh So Heavenly, Procter & Gamble, Revlon, Ahava, Sharon Bolel, Sh’Zen, Sorbet, Twincare International
CDP Gifts
Zoe, Christobel and Stella came to a free skincare and make-up workshop held by Look Good Feel Better which was started 8 years ago to specifically help women manage the visible side-effects of their cancer treatment.
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PRODUCT NEWS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
In the market Our round-up of newly launched products, equipment and innovations.
Contouring beauty Clarins Body Lift Cellulite Control contains six plant extracts with proven effectiveness that combine together to act at every stage of the formation of adipose tissue, effectively reducing the look of cellulite and helping prevent the formation of new cellulite. Not only does it visibly reduce cellulite but it also reinforces the skin’s firmness, microcirculation and hydration. 011 809 6300
Good all-rounder Pevonia has launched the Spa Clinica Micro Retinol range, which is designed to target lines, wrinkles, scarring, hyperpigmented skin and sun damage. Ideal for mature skin, it not only rejuvenates and smoothes wrinkles, but also promote increased skin density, strengthens elasticity, increases moisture and evens skin tone. Key ingredient, retinol, is present in the cleanser, toner, serum and moisturiser. 011 314 2799
Fresh & revitalised
Pure relaxation TheraVine introduces AromaVine Lemon Zest Massage Candle - a 100% natural synergistic blend of plant waxes (including superior soy wax instilled with an active nanoemulsion liposome Cacao extract) and butters. Infused with plant botanicals, this spa-inspired product is specifically designed to relax, offer great moisturising and protective skin care benefits, as well as healing abilities. Its refreshing citrusinfused aromas of lime, sweet orange and lemongrass help rejuvenate, uplift and soothe. 021 886 6623
Babor HSR Lifting Extra Firming Serum includes HSR Lifting Integral Complex which works to visibly reduce wrinkles while improving the structure of capillary walls and thereby the skin’s nutrient and oxygen uptake from the inside. Ingredient Pro-Tight improves the surface structure of the skin, while organic silicon improves the structure of connective tissue and strengthens the skin. 011 467 0110
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PRODUCT NEWS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Silky soft QMS Medicosmetics Pro-Body Exfoliator is an energising exfoliating gel that eliminates dry, rough skin through its combination of exfoliating micro-fine particles, anti-oxidant rich malachite extract to protect the skin, and invigorating essential oils of lemongrass, lavender, rosemary, thyme, lime and mint. After use, the skin is left soft, smooth and supple. 011 022 1658
Fuel for the skin Bio-Therapeutic bt-Cocktail ultimate ATP Synthesis product system combines a blend of forward-thinking ingredients that allow for optimal cellular health by nourishing, protecting, and enhancing the capabilities of the mitochondria; the heart of where ATP is manufactured. Independent studies on individual bt-Cocktail ingredients have evidenced as much as a 67% increase in ATP production, which has shown to rapidly encourage younger and healthier looking skin, refine pores, and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is suggested that this 30-45 day system is used once per quarter. 021 824 9029
The power of energy Yungskin is an organic cream based on acupuncture and homeopathic principles. Developed in South Africa by Dr Philip Sherwin, homeopath, naturopath and acupuncturist, the product uses quantum energy science and cellular stimulation principles to help restore the skin’s natural youthfulness. Like every part of your body, the skin on the face resonates its own particular energy field and frequency. The cream is infused and energised so that it synchronises, stimulates and enhances this energy field at a deep cellular level, just as acupuncture would stimulate certain points on your body and face. 082 802 9893
Lasting longevity Comfort Zone introduces Skin Regimen Nuticosmeceuticals – an integrated, holistic approach to skin health from the inside and out. Created by a multidisciplinary team of doctors and scientists, this concept works at contrasting the four ageing accelerators – inflammation, oxidation, glycation and methylation (DNA replication) - to visibly help correct and prevent signs of aging. It includes a skincare line rich in superfoods and hi-tech biomimetic ingredients, an innovative supplement and a lifestyle guide. 011 646 2420
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Professional Beauty September 2013
Pigment Restoration Acne Clearance Superficial Vascular Lesions Vascular & Pigmented Lesions
• Laser/RF Sales • Training • Education • Repairs • Maintenance • Installations V The Ultra Platform for Facial Contouring
Skin Rejuvenation Various Skin Conditions Super Hair Removal Skin Tightening
Leg Veins Wrinkles & Acne Scars Tattoo Removal & Fractional Non-ablative Skin Resurfacing Fractional Ablative Skin Resurfacing Hair Removal & Pigmented Lesions
The Comfortable Way to Eliminate Unwanted Body Hair
The Comfortable Way to Tone and Tighten your Skin
Contact: Andy Best Tel: +27 (0) 12 998 9844 Fax: +27 (0) 86 219 1942 Cell: +27 (0) 72 574 3159 Website: www.bestlasers.co.za Email: info@bestlasers.co.za
Laser Skin Resurfacing & Rejuvenation
PRODUCT NEWS
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Introducing
DMK High Definition* Foundation DMK High Definition* Foundation
online at www.probeauty.co.za
• Long-lasting, waterproof and highly pigmented • Long-lasting, Developed forwaterproof high definition and photographic technology highly pigmented
• Developed World’s first for make to conhighupdefinition tM tain BioCenCe ; an all natuphotographic technology ral preservative inhibits • World’s first makethat up to conbacterial growthtM ; an all natutain BioCenCe • ral oil-free silicone base spepreservative thatand inhibits cialized botanical bacterial growth ingredients suitablesilicone for use base on acne, • oil-free androsaspecea, scars, tattoos, post surcialized botanical ingredients gery conditions, severe • suitable for use on acne,hyperrosapigmentation and port cea, scars, tattoos, post wine surstains gery conditions, severe hyper• achieve greater pigmentation and profitability port wine with a significant retail mark-up stains • ongoing training, profitability education achieve greater and marketing assistance prowith a significant retail mark-up vided • ongoing training, education • and Receive the support of a globmarketing assistance proal network with over 40 years vided experience • Receive the support of a global network with over 40 years experience
Complete cover up
Get creative Developed for high definition photographic technology, DMK High Definition Foundation is long-lasting, waterproof and highly Readybetty is the ultimate styling kit for the pigmented. This product features an oil-free silicone base and hair down there. It contains eight stencil shapes, specialised botanical ingredients, making it suitable for use on petite-custom round-nose scissors, an irritant-free rosacea, acne, scars, tattoos, post-surgery conditions, severe cream hair remover with spatula applicator, and a hyperpigmentation and port wine stains. It is the world’s first make special finishing www.DMKCosmetics.com ❘ 011-262 6120 ❘ 082 654 5748blade tool to define tricky shapes. up to contain Biocence – an all-natural preservative that inhibits Charmcil stencils are also available for waxing. bacterial growth. 071 841 6798 www.DMKCosmetics.com ❘ 011-262 6120 ❘ 082 654 5748 011 262 6120
DMK CosMetiCs: the founDation of sKin DMK CosMetiCs: the founDation of sKin
Ready to repair Above and beyond Dr Gobac Exfoliating Masque contains papain enzyme to effectively dissolve the dead keratinised layers of the epidermis. It also contains Vitamin E acetate which feeds the skin, improves elasticity and is a protective anti-oxidant; Retinyl Palmitate (a form of Vitamin A) and Palmitic Acid (a component of palm oil). These ingredients are easily absorbed into the deeper layers of the skin, where they are converted to retinol to help control and stimulate the growth of epidermal cells, improve stability among the cells, and restore the epidermal architecture, while protecting the skin against infections. 011 784 2422
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Professional Beauty September 2013
Coverderm Filteray Skin Repair is a multifunctional after sun cream-gel for the total treatment of sun induced damage, especially to the sensitive skin on the face. It provides deep and long-lasting moisture, soothes and revitalises, leaving skin with a feeling of freshness and softness. It contains aloe vera, a soothing natural ingredient well known for its restorative properties. Other active ingredients include Allantoin, D-Panthenol, Pantavitin and Reasun, which work together to rehydrate, repair, soothe and revitalise the skin. Skin Repair is water-resistant, hypoallergenic, clinically tested, and suitable for all skin types – even for children. 012 460 1220
Cidesco Section South Africa
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
SAAHSP receives Professional Body Status SAAHSP (South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals) is proud to announce that on March 19 it was awarded Professional Body Status by SAQA (South African Quality Assurance Body). A professional body is usually a non-profit organisation seeking to further uplift a particular profession, the interests of individuals engaged in that profession and to look after the public’s interest. A professional body must be legally constituted to protect the public in relation to services provided. It will develop, award, monitor and revoke professional
designations. Professional designations are indicated by letters after your name which proves that you are licensed by a professional organisation. Professional bodies regulate CPD (Continual Professional Development). CPD can be defined as the systematic maintenance, improvement and broadening and skills and the development of personal
qualities necessary for the execution of professional and technical duties throughout a person’s career. A professional designation indicates registration of the individual with a professional body, and, where relevant, the right to practise in a particular field of expertise governed by the professional body. This must be registered separately from a qualification and can be revoked in terms of rules and legislation. The benefits of becoming a registered designated member show commitment to the industry, its employers, stakeholders, clients, their businesses and their own personal development. It
shows interest in the industry, passion for their occupation and that their knowledge is up-to-date both nationally and internationally. The industry becomes self-regulated; therefore the standard of excellence is established. Growth of credibility and professionalism is guaranteed. Unqualified practitioners trying to enter the industry without credentials will not be tolerated. We urge you to contact SAAHSP to ensure you keep abreast of the latest developments and hold the necessary professional designations. Maja Grewe, PR for SAAHSP
Cape Committee AGM and permanent make-up seminar
Cosmedica 2013
Elna Hagen, chairlady of SAAHSP Cape and her committee, were delighted with the outcome of the Annual General Meeting and the permanent make-up talk and demonstration held at International Academy Cape Town on 30 July. The demonstration was displayed on two big screens in order for all 84 attendees to get a good view of guest speaker Vivian Thompson sharing her expertise and skill, whilst all could enjoy delicious soup and rolls against the cold Cape Town weather.
The Cosmetic Medicine Congress of South Africa held its 3rd Congress at Sandton Sun on the weekend of July 5 -7. It was the second year that the medi-spa section was included and co-hosted with Isa Carstens Academy as one of the academic affiliates together with the South African Association of Cosmetic Doctors. We were honoured to have worldwide leaders and experts in the field of Botulinum Toxin treatments, dermal fillers,
Gauteng Committee AGM and Medical Aesthetics event SAAHSP Gauteng Committee held it AGM and Medical Aesthetics Evening on August 5. The speakers were Karen Ellithorne, Dr Margaret Fockema and Dr Gys Du Plessis. It was a very informative evening focusing on ageing. Karen focused on the latest trends in medical aesthetics. She discussed the different wounding treatments, and industry trends like chemical peels and anti-pigmentation actives.
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Dr Fockema focused on Botox and fillers – an interesting fact about Botox: one full treatment is now considered as safe as a quarter of an aspirin. Dr Gys spoke on healthy ageing and the challenges we face today. Your life span has doubled in the last 100 years and a longer health span doesn’t mean a healthier life span. He stressed the importance of the therapist’s role in prescribing SPF to clients. He closed his talk with the following: healthy
Professional Beauty September 2013
lasers, chemical peelings and anti-ageing medicine shared their wealth of experience and teaching skills with us as somatologists, as well as medical practitioners. Lectures included topics such as aesthetic dermatology, peri-oral rejuvenation, the science behind ageing, advances in skin nutrition and latest technology and developments in the fight against ageing. Cosmedica 2014 will be held next year September - dates to be confirmed.
International Academy visits Arabella Spa
ageing the vehicle and good aesthetics the destiny. The SAAHSP Gauteng Committee would like to thank all the speakers for offering their time and expertise.
During the course of its students’ studies, the International Academy makes sure that the students receive the necessary exposure to the spa industry by taking them on exciting trips to top-notch spas such as the Arabella Spa in Kleinmond. The students loved the outing and had a wonderful time at the spa.
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The role of a bargaining council in an Industry I often come across businesses in our industry which are unaware that they are required by law to belong to the bargaining council. I have therefore requested Karen Ellis, Chief Executive Officer of The National Bargaining Council for the Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Beauty and Skincare Industry, to provide more details in this regard. Feroza Fakir - President, BHSEA
T
here are about 40 councils in South Africa operating in different industries, including the Hairdressing, Beauty and Cosmetology industry. In this industry, the council has been in existence since the ‘40s and was previously known as an industrial council, just like the others. A bargaining council is formed in terms of section 27(1)(a) and(b) of the Labour Relations Act which gives a registered trade union and employer organisation the right to form and register a council. In some councils, there are more than one trade union or employers’ organisation. The question that then gets asked is: Why form a council in the first place? A bargaining council is formed when the employers and employees within the Industry realise that they need to regulate their own rules and regulations in order to efficiently function in their own Industry. This is called collective bargaining. This is the process through which the collective agreement is formed and gazetted by the Minister of Labour. The collective agreement stipulates the minimum terms and conditions of employment
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in the Industry, methods to dispute resolution and any benefits in terms of section 28(1) of the Labour Relations Act etcetera. It needs to be remembered that this process began several years ago, and the collective bargaining process is simply continuing from its inception in the 1940s to the present date. In the same light, a council has the right to request the minister to extend the collective agreement to non-parties where there is sufficient representivity within the industry in question. Representivity means that the parties to the council have sufficient membership to warrant extending the rules and regulations to the nonparties. Since the council determines terms and conditions of employment and dispute resolution, it has the jurisdiction to arbitrate cases in the Industry in place of the CCMA. The council does not charge to arbitrate these cases. Employers are only charged when their salons are referred for arbitration due to non-payment of their levies. This is one of the core
functions of the bargaining councils, which is enforced in terms of section 28 of the Labour Relations Act. The benefits which the council regulates in the Industry are the pension fund; sick pay fund and sick benefit fund, which are in place for the benefit of the whole industry. The councils have the authority to do so in terms of the Labour Relations Act. After this explanation, people generally ask: do we have to belong to the council? The answer to that one is simple; any person, operating within any industry, where a bargaining council has been established, must belong to the council in terms of section 31 of the Labour Relations Act. Any levies imposed on the Industry by the council and the parties to the council are also compulsory in terms of section 33A of the Labour Relations Act read with the gazetted Collective Agreement. One might now ask how the bargaining councils are structured in this Industry? From 1 July 2013 the four councils within this industry,
which were in existence, have been amalgamated into one national bargaining council for the whole of the Industry. We have four regional offices within this Industry. They are situated in Pretoria, Johannesburg, Western Cape and KwaZulu-Natal. All salons fall under the jurisdiction of one of the councils depending on where they operate. The parties to the council are as stipulated above. The most important function of a bargaining council is to assist the Industry to grow and flourish. The councils are here to help both employees and employers in all matters related to their establishment. It is important to have a constructive and free flow of information between the Industry and the parties to the council. If anyone has any questions about the council, I urge them to contact the council directly. Karen Ellis Chief Executive Officer The National Bargaining Council for the Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Beauty and Skincare Industry
The most important function of a bargaining council is to assist the Industry to grow and flourish.
Professional Beauty September 2013
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Professional Beauty September 2013
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Professional Beauty September 2013
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