Salon International May 2022 by Professional Beauty SA

Cutting revisited Salon Design

Inspiration

April 2022 | saloninternational.co.za

Business

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Cover Image - Shutterstock

Welcome This month issue is very much focussed on business topics. Staff disciplinary’s are always a tricky thing to navigate through. We have some excellent advice from the EOHCB. Salon design is always a favourite of mine and I am amazed at the creativity designers have where this is concerned. In addition there is some great fashion photography in this issue with some really inspirational ideas to get your creative juices flowing. We held our Cape Town Big Buzz Business conference at the end of April which was extremely well received by the delegates with great topics and knowledgeable speakers. We now turn our attention to Bloemfontein for our June edition. If you are in the Free State and not too far from Bloem, do join us, it really will be worth your while. Click HERE for more details.

Phil phil@tetradeevents.com

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg Tel: 011 781 5970

Special thanks to contributing editor Joanna Sterkowicz Cover photo Shutterstock

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Business

DEFYING WHAT A BARBER IS SUPPOSED TO BE MADE ME WHO I AM TODAY. MY DESIRE TO GO BEYOND THE ORDINARY IS REFLECTED IN THESE PRODUCTS. THIS IS MY STATEMENT. WHAT’S YOURS? STAYGOLD – AWARD-WINNING BARBER, EDUCATOR & CONTENT CREATOR

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Business

@STAYGOLD31 @STMNTGROOMING

STMNTGROOMING.COM

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News

NEWS Robust growth predicted for electric hair brush market The global electric hair brush market is projected to reach $352 million by 2027, exhibiting a CAGR (Compound Annual Growth Rate) of 5.4% during the next five-year period. So states a new report from ResearchAndMarkets.com, which notes a rise in the demand for shiny and straightened hair, especially among the millennial population, which can be accredited to increasing awareness about personal grooming and the growing number of fashion campaigns on social media forums such as Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and Pinterest. This, coupled with the rising utilisation of electric hair brushes in salons and other hair care spaces, represents one of the key factors creating a positive outlook for this market. The report cites other factors contributing to the growth of the market, such as unhealthy dietary habits and the increasing geriatric population, both of which result in an increasing occurrence of dryness, frizzy hair and hair loss. This is propelling people to invest in advanced hair products, such as electric hair brushes. Furthermore, numerous manufacturers are spending considerably on collaborations and the development of technologically advanced product variants to expand their overall market reach. In line with this, they are also introducing electric hair brushes with time-saving and temperature controller features. These innovations are projected to influence the market positively, as is the fact that electric hair brushes can provide faster and easier straightening without leaving the hair flat or devoid of volume, according to the report.

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News The styles that stood out at the Met Gala Fashion’s biggest annual event, the Met Gala, took place at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art on 2 May, with the theme, ‘Gilded Glamour’. One of the more noticeable hairdos, certainly in terms of sheer volume and scale, was supermodel Kaia Gerber’s huge mass of long, pre-Raphaelite curls. Gerber’s tresses, styled by Guido Palau, skimmed her waist and were festooned, on each side of a severe centre parting, by a big, sparkly barette. Also issuing forth serious preRaphaelite vibes, albeit less voluminous and in a deep mahogany shade, was ‘Game of Thrones’ star, Sophie Turner. Hair was by Gregory Russell, who also designed an unusual, low ponytail for actress Chloe Grace Moretz. Said ponytail was constrained by two twisted braids running down each side of the back of her head, while the front was gelled and slightly teased. Arguably the most intriguing style was singer Alicia Keys’ extraordinary braided ponytail, which had large crystal discs spiraling all the way down it. The look was designed by Fesa Nu. In line with the ‘Gilded Glamour’ theme, internet personality Emma Chamberlain wore a diamond tiara on her platinum blonde, blunt cut bob. Olympic gold medalist snowboarder, Chloe Kim, opted for a glamorous blonde updo, complemented by an ultra-long parted fringe. Going the half-updo look was ‘Squid Game’ star, Jung Ho-yeon, whose hip-length black waves cascaded down her back. British actress, singer and the star of ‘Wicked’, Cynthia Erivo, made a statement by wearing a towering white head wrap. Fellow brit actress, Lucy Boynton of ‘Rocketman’ fame, impressed with a fulsome, chin length blonde bob, with the edges flipped under. Maude Apatow channeled serious 1930s Hollywood vibes with dark, shoulder-length vintage barrel curls courtesy of Peter Lux. Also going retro was Jodie Turner-Smith, whose short hair was coaxed into finger waves. A more contemporary look was seen on Gemma Chan, with her long, non-too-tidy gentle waves. This casual style contrasted with her gown, which was one of the most avant-garde of the night, with its Marie Antoinettetype embellished hips. (Report by Joanna Sterkowicz)

Big Buzz Business Conference comes to Bloemfontein Targeted at the owners of hair and beauty salons, the Big Buzz Business Conference takes place in Bloemfontein on 20 June, at the Tuscan Rose on Maluti Avenue. A jam-packed conference with leading speakers presenting on hair and beauty business topics will run alongside a table top exhibition populated by top suppliers. Speakers include renowned stylist and salon owner, Terence Jansen van Vuuren of Terrenzo Suites. Says Phil Woods, commercial director of Salon International/ Professional Beauty and convener of the conference: “This will be the third Big Buzz Business Conference that we have hosted this year, with successful events already having taken place in Johannesburg and Cape Town. We decided to extend our reach to Bloemfontein, to

accommodate the owners and managers of hair and beauty salons in that region. Furthermore, some leading suppliers are seeking face-to-face interaction with salon professionals in Bloemfontein via our table top exhibition.” Conference topics include: Creating business processes in your salon; Unstoppable social media & authentic influencer strategies; Client loyalty; The 7 habits of highly effective salon operators; Building a sustainable business; Must have business skills you need to develop to ensure success; and Is the current educational syllabus working for salons and spas? (panel discussion). For more information and to book your place at the conference for R595 click here https://www.probeauty.co.za/bloemfontein-

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Business

The BIG debate

Should all stylists

wear a uniform? Are uniforms necessary for all salons? Two experts share their vision

Yes

While we don’t have a strict uniform policy, I do believe I encourage my team to express that it has benefits to making themselves through their own staff and clients feel more clothing. The way someone comfortable. expresses themselves with their I realised that we may have new image doesn’t make them less or more staff members come into the salon professional. environment who may not be in a I believe uniforms leave no room for financial position to buy new clothes. self-expression and individuality. Working Working with in a highly creative area of the fashion products that can We encourage industry, I feel it’s important to be able to damage clothes do those things. I also believe if staff are everyone to can end up being working long hours why should they not embrace their style stressful for the be wearing something that makes them personality, but employee and a happy, confiden, and comfortable? huge financial cost. this doesn’t just Clients always comment on my unique Our decision to sense of style. Our own clothing creates need to be done have a uniform a less formal environment, guests have was a group mentioned they feel more comfortable, through clothing decision. We that the service feels more personal, and decided it would gather a sense of team they feel they are less anxious about spirit, be in line with our ethos, break being judged for their own style. down any barriers anyone may feel, and A recent poll on my Instagram save damaging our own clothes. on whether Working in a hairdressers should We’ve kept our uniforms very simple with black, branded t-shirts, or an option highly creative wear uniform or to wear all black which still allows stylists not saw 22 people area of the fashion for wearing a to show off their personal style. When a industry it’s uniform and a client comes into the salon our team are easily identifiable, and everyone important for whopping 676 feels equal. against. self-expression We completely encourage everyone Hygiene is a to embrace their style personality, and individuality contributing factor but this doesn’t just need to be done to many stylists through clothing. choosing a uniform and due to the We work in a creative industry, and nature of the job, it is easy to damage we are all born creatives. I want this to clothing, so we provide aprons that staff shine through and the team to stand out can choose to wear. as individuals, but I also want them to I believe letting go of stereotypes feel comfortable and not pressured into about how those in the beauty keeping up with fashion trends if they’re industry should look has enhanced the not able to afford them. experience for staff and clients alike.

STACEY WHYTE, CHEVEUX SALON

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HEFFY WHEELER, HX HAIR

Careers

adventures of a

New Salon OWNER Marney Lian, full-time stylist and owner of new salon Gritt London, talks careers, client comforts and plans in the pipeline

What has been your career journey so far? I started my hair career at 14. I always wanted my own salon, so I made it a priority to work for both small boutique salons and big chains. I worked as an employee, self-employed and freelance before taking the plunge to open my salon.

What do you think makes Gritt London so unique? We build a bridge for stylists who want to branch out to freelance but still want to be supported by a salon. We help stylists build the clientele they want. We have stylists who specialise in all aspects of hairdressing, and we work accordingly to present them with the clients to match their expertise. I believe such organisation has been fundamental in providing a 5-star service for all our clients. Our salon is designed for client comfort; we have a work from home space in addition to a relaxing atmosphere where you can get pampered whilst enjoying a glass of champagne.

What do you love most about being a salon owner? I love being able to adapt to a new way of running salons. Being a full-time stylist on the shop floor has helped my salon grow in 12 months. Being able to work with my team and quickly change things that didn’t work has been my favourite part. I feel like I’m giving back to our industry and our stylists.

What are the challenges you've faced so far? Opening a salon during lockdown, brought with it a lot of doubt. Reflecting back now on the last 12 months, I would say maintaining our ethos, becoming established in our own right and finding a team that believes in our ethos so early on has assisted the salon in overcoming any challenges during the pandemic.

What's next for Gritt London?

2003

Began training

2015

Became a colour specialist

2018

Became a freelance stylist

2021

Opened Gritt London

We have lots planned in the pipeline, all to be revealed. We hope to open our second salon very soon!

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Business

The perfect salon

EXPERIENCE H O W T O E L E VA T E T H E B A C K WA S H Z O N E As part of our design series in partnership with Takara Belmont, we look at how designing the backwash zone in your salon can be a true treat for the senses…

na Salon has always had comfort in mind, taking every client on a relaxing journey. Housed in close proximity to Covent Garden, the salon, which is the brainchild of Pedro Inchenko and Johnny Othona, boasts a down-to-earth, approachable vibe, complemented by both its people and purpose. “Sustainability is a key pillar of our brand,” says co-director, Johnny Othona, “and within that we are always looking at how to improve the client experience, to sustain their needs, too.” The salon boasts beautifully designed styling spaces housed over five floors, hallmarked by a backwash experience with relaxation in mind. “Our backwash is a huge part of our client journey,” says

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Johnny. “We have commissioned an artist to hand paint a bespoke ceiling scape for this every six months. These are nature-based, in line with our sustainable ethos, and allow clients to literally escape while they relax during this part of their appointment.” When it comes to creating a good salon design, Johnny believes it’s about being receptive to your space first: “Our building is Grade II Listed, so we wanted to be sensitive to that first and foremost. We then made it functional before accentuating with our design detail.” And what about colour palettes? “We used earthy tones, with accents of colour, such as our original stained glass window and hand-painted ceiling scapes.” So why Takara Belmont? “Form and function are key elements of design for us. We

Business

DON’T MISS… …our monthly The Perfect Salon

OUR BUILDING IS GRADE II LISTED, SO WE WANTED TO BE SENSITIVE TO THAT FIRST AND FOREMOST

Experience features. Each issue we look at a different aspect of salon design, from adding a spa element to your space to creating a private area for VIP guests.

were drawn to the sensitive design of its products; salon furniture has to be in line with your brand and for us, Takara Belmont was the perfect partnership.” According to Johnny, upping your backwash game makes sense in more ways than one: “Being in tune with the five senses is key to influencing client experience. Everything from the sound to the smell must complement, not clash, and if you’re thinking of creating more of a backwash ‘zone’ look at how you can maximise space, create a point of difference and appeal to the senses somehow.” So whether it’s via the scents you use, the texture of the towels, or functionality of the furniture,always appeal to the senses. And if done correctly, it will all combine to create a stylish symphony of both comfort and joy.

Recreate the look Ena Salon is all about sophistication. Get the look by choosing the Eos styling chair. With natural textures and tones, this experience-led chair includes features such as removable or replacable cushions and a Brindle or Rosewood backrest. Meanwhile the RS Prime is perfectly suited to salons who want to deliver maximum comfort, even with limited space. Its removable gel-filled neck cushion cradles the client’s head in comfort. Along with thermostatic control that regulates water pressure and temperature, and a free-swiveling shower-head with retracting cord, a premium service is assured every time. See more at www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

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Talking to

We talk to Fabio Macchia, the local South African STMNT ambassador. Tell us about yourself ?

Favorite Product?

My name is Fabio Macchia I am a men’s hairstylist/barber from Port Elizabeth . I’ve been into men’s hair for the past 20 years. I currently own SHAG HIGH VOLTAGE HAIR with my wife Corinne, I would definitely say we are more of a lifestyle salon focusing on trend work. Pushing limits of the industry every moment we get.

Wow that’s hard!!!! To be honest would be between Spray Powder and Julius Matte Paste !!!!

How did you get into men’s hair?

Going back to the beginning I’ve always felt that men’s hair could look better than what was out there at the time. Seeing these guys with haircuts that did them zero justice, it made no sense to me. I always wanted to tackle men’s hair and try make a difference, today men’s hair is the largest growing part of the hair industry. It’s moving at a radical pace …

What do you love about STMNT?

Well when they say they have re-written the standards of grooming it’s true!!!!!! The range is so diverse, and unbelievable cocktailable, The leaders in the game have created the leading grooming range without a doubt.

Best tip when using STMNT to style someone’s hair? I am a firm believer that less is more (you can always top up the hair if needed!) Also, the range is cocktalable so if you find you have possibly put too much pomade!!! Just add powder!!!!! Just go play with it!!!!

How has STMNT changed the way I do things in the salon? I think in general barbers/hairdressers have always battled to retail to their men clients. This has changed everything!!! Men want this product in their shower, in there vanity bag ,in there hair!!!!!!

What do you love about men’s grooming?

Love the way traditional barbering and modern hairdressing has merged, men want to look on point! Hair and fashion have merged now more than ever which allows us more creative freedom!!! The industry is evolving at a rapid rate daily, you have to stay on your toes!!!

What is your STMNT?

Be yourself, push the limits of your ability, start creating a blueprint of what type of stylist and person you want to be, and go for it. MAKE YOUR STMNT!!!!!

My experience with STMNT

The range has sparked so much interest with my clients, they love the branding, the smell, the way it looks, the way it feels in their hair. The brand sells itself!!!!

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Product feature

@JULIUSCAESAR FINISHING FELIPE’S HAIR

NEXT LEVEL GROOMING GOODS CREATED BY THE PIONEERS OF MODERN BARBERING. YOUR STYLE. YOUR STATEMENT.

@NOMADBARBER

@STAYGOLD31

@JULIUSCAESAR

TRAVELING BARBER, PHOTOGRAPHER & FILMMAKER

AWARD-WINNING BARBER, EDUCATOR & CONTENT CREATOR

SESSION BARBER, PLATFORM EDUCATOR & CREATIVE DIRECTOR

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@STMNTGROOMING STMNTGROOMING.COM CONTACT US ON ZACUSTOMERSUPPORT@HENKEL.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION.

Scissors

SCISSORS

THE RETURN

OF THE CUT SEAN HANNA HAIR

From Bixies and Mixies to classic crops and bobs, clients are requesting strong cuts. But before you go sharpen your scissors, here’s some style inspiration and advice Words: Kirsty Doolan The Connexion

“I love this for people who want long hair, but with more lift around the crown. Top layers are shorter at the crown but get longer towards the face, to give more height and movement without feeling short.” My tip “Concentrate on the way the layers are connected at the back and use a gentle slicing technique.” Sean Hanna, SeanHanna Hair

The Crop MEDUSA HAIR

HARINGTONS

“I’m so happy to see the return of the crop. I’ve had so many requests for this look and clients are definitely embracing it.”

After a few years of long layers and one-length looks, the industry is rejoicing to see more creative and experimental cuts back in fashion. Our panel of stylists reveal their favourite trending style and share their top tip for recreating it.

My tip “Texture is key! Create enough texture to allow the cut to sit beautifully and grow out perfectly.” Barry Maddocks, creative director at Haringtons

“The Chelsea girl (AKA Mixie) is back and I am delighted. It’s a cute cut with some edginess: a hybrid of the pixie and a mullet. It suits a lot of face types, but to keep it fresh, try playing with the length.” My tip “Section it into two separate haircuts: the short area around the face and then the length area around the nape. Once both are cut, concentrate on creating a seamless blend.” Colin McAndrew, Medusa Hair

SASSOON ACADEMY

The Mixie

The Modern Box Bob

“Hair with inherent quality is back. Well-cut, though not aggressive. Well-groomed hair speaks volumes about the wearer.” My tip “Be sensitive with your length and angles and thoughtful in selecting hair tones. Suitability is about identity, rather than physical attributes.” Mark Hayes, International Creative Director at Sassoon Academy

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PERFECT SCISSORS MATCH “In my experience, the best scissors are Japanese and use a cobalt steel alloy. In terms of handles and other features, my preference is to keep things as simple as possible. It sounds simplistic, but choose whatever feels most comfortable in your hand.” Mark Hayes, Sassoon Academy “The smaller your hand, the smaller the blades need to be. If you’re buying your first set, don’t spend a fortune as you’ll probably drop them. When you’re more experienced you’ll be able to buy better ones. Lastly, look after your tools! Ensure absolutely everything you own is cleaned, disinfected and sterilised regularly.” Jamie Stevens, Jamie Stevens Hair

Scissors

PERFECT SCISSORS MATCH

My tip A Woodstock fringe gives a retro feel and great shape around the face. When tied up, this style has a real ‘Bardot vibe’. Darren Ambrose, D&J Ambrose

“I love being creative with razor cutting, it gets my brain buzzing. Styling these looks can be versatile too: straight, wavy or curly, it suits it all!”

TINA HOLLIS

“Even though it has made an appearance for a while, I still really like the 70s Shag for its versatility and flexible lengths.

The Wolf Cut

"I REALLY LIKE THE 70S SHAG FOR ITS VERSATILITY AND FLEXIBLE LENGTHS"

The Micro Mullet “I love seeing the mullet again. It’s the perfect example of how fashion evolves as

My tip “Use dry shampoo on the roots and texture spray throughout to get the best from this cut.” Tina Hollis, T2 Hair & Beauty

fast as it repeats.” My tip “Understand the elevation and over-direction needed to create a contrast. When you’ve mastered that, there’s no limit to the creativity you can add to the haircut – to make every mullet bespoke and unique.” Jeppe Gregersen, Gary Ingham Aveda Lifestyle Salons & Spas

NOVEMBER COLLECTIVE

“I choose scissors with balance, form and shape in mind. A good pair is essential for your cutting mastery. It’s my blueprint, my signature, my creativity.” Errol Douglas, Errol Douglas Salon

The 70s Shag & Woodstock Fringe Combo

JEPPE GREGERSEN

“I have multiple pairs of scissors for different types of work I do: a universal pair, ones for short hair, ones for thinning, a pair just for wigs, a super-sharp Japanese pair for sliding into hair and scissors with little corrugations to cut one-length styles. Personally, I always look at the quality when buying a new pair, but I admit, I should really look after them better!” Angelo Seminara, Urban Retreat

D&J AMBROSE

“Always try scissors out before you buy them! Trade shows like Salon International are a great place to spend lots of time looking at all the different pairs on offer. Try them out in your hand and invest in a pair that feel right for you.” Robert Eaton, Russell Eaton Salon

The Pammy Fringe

“The requests for 90s baby fringes keep on coming, inspired by Pamela Anderson's Baywatch days. Clients love Hulu’s Pam & Tommy!” My tip "Keep the fringe rounded, fine and wispy. Pair with a messy updo, zigzag parting and loose tendrils.” Christopher Laird, November Collective

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Colour

Colour NOTES The Kardashians

Social media

This month, we quizzed Jake Nugent, freelance stylist and OSMO ambassador on his colour creations What do you love most about being a colourist?

What are the challenges facing colourists right now?

It has to be the creativity and the boundaries you can push with colour. I love how you can influence a client’s mood with your colour creations and it’s great seeing how they react at the end of a transformation.

Summer brings with it lots of colour corrections. Clients may not always understand that going from darker to light is a big colour change, so we’re going to need more time and product – this means a higher than usual charge. Managing expectations is a challenge that we face regularly, but if we’re confident and know our worth, we’ll be okay.

Where do you go for colour inspiration?

OSMO Fa mily

I love seeing the work created from the stylists at my salon, and my fellow OSMO ambassadors’ colour creations when we’re together or on social! I’m hugely inspired by social media – especially Reels and TikTok. I love that there is instant education from your phone, so you’re constantly inspired and pushing yourself.

What are your favourite colouring techniques at the moment? It has to be balayage and face framing highlights. It’s what I’ve become known for. At the moment I’m switching it up slightly by adding more dimension to the finished effects. Think darker shades hidden within a blonde to give it more interest. Coffee art

What colour trends are you pleased to see out of fashion? I’d never like to say what’s in or out as I believe it’s all about how you feel and what you love. As with fashion, be who you want to be and own that hair colour no matter what!

Las Vegas

What’s been your most memorable colour consultation? The first time I was asked how I’d colour hair and the techniques I’d use. I love having consultations and seeing their reactions as we both ‘get’ what they’d like and chat through the entire process from application, styling, to at-home care too.

What colour creation makes you most proud? I definitely have a ‘look’ – long, luxe blonde colour creations. When I was first contacted by the OSMO team, that really was a career moment for me and I’m so proud that my colour work has created such a terrific opportunity for me.

What do you enjoy most about your job? I LOVE to talk – so this is the ideal job for me. Meeting people, being able to make people smile, get excited and inspired by others and learning new things every day.

Are there any colouring trends you’d like to bring back?

What advice would you give to a trainee colourist?

I’m loving that the summery blondes are being asked for again in the salon. Mixing reds and golden shades within my blonde palette is giving lots of exciting shades and depths to my creations.

Start your social as soon as you can – this will help you get clients. Also, don’t be scared to try new things. You’ll need to push yourself to learn and excel in your craft.

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Business

Signature

style

HJ met Daniel Kaner, co-founder and president of Oribe at their Signature Session event in London to talk success, the industry at large and knowing the late, great Oribe Canales What does success look like to you? I recently heard a comment from Elon Musk and he said something along the lines of: “when you’re growing a businesses, don’t do it for the money because that can’t be your only mark of success.” If you’ve achieved the financial goals, then what do you do? What will be inspiring? We always said that when we work with a salon, our success has to come second. If the salon and our education is successful, then the brand will be successful.

What was your experience of working with the late Oribe Canales? He was just so cool and current. He had such sense of personal style, he was glamorous and so handsome. He loved everything that was gold. He knew exactly what he liked – it took me two and a half years to put together our brand book. Oribe saw himself as an artist. I’m so sorry that he’s not here today because he would’ve been so proud.

What do you look for in a salon partner? It doesn’t have to be the salon with the grand piano and champagne; if someone is really interested in education and leadership, and they want to take the journey towards their development, those partners become very interesting to us. Because then our education makes sense to them, they want to participate. We’re looking for like-minded partners.

We hear the phrase 'I'm just a hairdresser' a lot - what do you think about that comment? The potential of what hairdressers can do and the impact they can have on their communities is huge. They are magicians and they have the opportunity to deliver an experience for their clients. If you look at retail trends, now a trip to the grocery store or your favourite restaurant, wine bar or vintage clothing store, is an experience. That’s an opportunity that salons need to take, experiences is where the future lies.

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Business

Cancer Care

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Business

Best of

both worlds

We spoke to award-winning stylist Darren Ambrose on his journey within the industry and the art of juggling salon and session work

alancing a busy salon column with a regular stream of session work is a juggling act few can manage. But in a career spanning decades, Darren Ambrose has achieved just that. So just how has he managed to maintain the momentum of a busy salon, without having to sacrifice his love of session work? We chatted to Darren to find out more… After his work caught the eye of the late Terry Calvert, then-manager of the Clipso salon group, Darren was swiftly invited for work experience at his London salon. For the next four years, Darren devoted himself to training and perfecting his craft, absorbing everything the industry had to offer and finding his place within it. Promoted to company creative director for the Clipso group, Darren began to travel nationally and abroad, presenting work at shows including Salon International and the British Hairdressing Awards. In a ‘sink or swim moment’ in 1996, Darren and his wife Jackie moved into a caravan, investing every penny into opening their own salon and Darren’s big break into session styling came shortly after through photographer friend Trevor Leighton. Shoots with celebrities led to regular work within the music industry, and soon, Darren had built up

enough well-connected contacts to be approached for regular work. But with a steady stream of clients at the salon, the juggle was real. "The salon business was thriving, but there were amazing prospects with session work. You need to be on hand all the time and it’s more of a juggling act when you’ve got a busy salon." And both present risks. "Owning a salon requires considerable financial investment. In session, it’s more about your commitment as an individual," Darren says. "You’ve got to be committed to both, to do well." Despite the worlds of salon and session often being compared as different entities, Darren stresses how similar they really are: "You’re being hired for your creativity. On a shoot, you’ve got to tap into what the creative director wants, to fulfil the brief. In the salon, you’ve got a similar situation with a client. It’s about key communication and understanding." From British Hairdresser of the Year to a Smash Hit Award at Wembley for Best Female Haircut, Darren’s career has been varied to say the least. So, is variety the key to contentment? "It’s about finding a balance that works for you and it’s a great way of challenging yourself. What we’ve achieved as a brand feels amazing and we’re so lucky to work in an industry that offers such diversity."

YOU’RE BEING HIRED FOR YOUR CREATIVITY. ON A SHOOT, YOU’VE GOT TO TAP INTO WHAT THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR WANTS, TO FULFIL THE BRIEF. IN THE SALON, YOU’VE GOT A SIMILAR SITUATION WITH A CLIENT. IT’S ABOUT KEY COMMUNICATION AND UNDERSTANDING

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New Products

g n i m o o r g d Hair an Session Label

Schwarzkopf Professional’s range of iconic and exclusively professional styling products has been revamped, complete with new minimalistic, edgy and recyclable matte packaging and straightforward product names. A brand in its own right, Session Label comprises eight, high-performance formulas designed to help hairstylists #CRAFTTHEDIFFERENCE. Session Label has introduced four brand new innovations and relaunched four of the most loved and highperformance formulations from the previous range. The Thickener is a volumising blow-dry spray with hydrolyzed wheat protein and panthenol

that bulks up the hair and adds grip, leaving hair feeling thicker. Then there is The Definer, a curl cream that shapes, controls and defines curls without frizziness or a crunchy feel. The formula gives a moisturized hair feel and is perfect for the utilisation with hot tools. A remouldable matte styling paste, The Paste, has Berry Wax and Tapioca Starch to give flexible texture for greater volume and definition. The Texturizer, an undone-look texture spray with Tapioca

Starch and Panthenol, creates lightweight texture and volume for fuller-looking tousled hair with a moisturised feel. For workable fixation and control, The Flexible is a dry, light hold hairspray, with The Strong, a firm hold hairspray. 011 617 2614

STMNT for men’s grooming

From Henkel Beauty Care, STMNT Grooming Goods is a new, lifestyle-driven professional grooming brand that was developed through a collaborative approach in response to the recent merge of barbering with hairdressing. A team of innovative barbers by trade and creators by nature have founded STMNT Grooming Goods. They are: Julius Arriola aka Julius Cvesar (@JULIUSCAESAR); Sofie Pok aka Staygold (@ STAYGOLD31); and Miguel Gutierrez aka Nomad Barber (@ NOMADBARBER). Collectively, they have over half a million followers on Instagram and they’re building a growing community of movers and shakers that influence the hairdressing world. The result: is three distinct styling collections, accompanied by a 5-piece care line. Julius Cvesar has developed three products and two key looks to take grooming to the next level – STMNT Shine Paste for understated shine; STMNT Matte with the super matte effect and STMNT Hairspray. This collection features Julius Cvesar’s signature scent: a twist of creamy coconut and sandalwood with inflections of orris. Staygold Sofie has created a unique collection of products that truly hold their own, each with a key look designed to rewrite the styling rulebook: STMNT Fiber Pomade for messy texture; STMNT Wax Powder to transform the way you style; and STMNT Spray Powder for rough texture. This collection features Staygold’s signature scent: with citrus, aquatic and woody notes. Nomad Barber Miguel’s collection features three essential products and two key looks: STMNT Classic Pomade; STMNT Dry Clay to rough it up with extra matte impact; and STMNT Grooming Spray, a multipurpose prep and style support. This collection features Nomad Barber’s signature scent: rich with spices, lavender and a hint of wood. STMNT Care –the founding collective has also created a 5-piece line up of high performing care products designed to create the perfect canvas for styling and developed for all hair and beard types. The STMNT Care range includes Shampoo, All-In-One Cleanser; Conditioner; Beard Oil; and Hair & Body Cleansing Bar. This collection features its own signature scent: fresh citrus and lavender with tonka bean. 011 617 2614 online@saloninternational

Business

adventures of a

New Salon OWNER Marney Lian, full-time stylist and owner of new salon Gritt London, talks careers, client comforts and plans in the pipeline

What's next for Gritt London?

2003

Began training

2015

Became a colour specialist

2018

Became a freelance stylist

2021

Opened Gritt London

We have lots planned in the pipeline, all to be revealed. We hope to open our second salon very soon! online@saloninternational

# C R A F T T H E D I F F E R E N C E

T H E T H E

D I F F E R E N C E D E T A I L S

I S

I N

Driven by the uncompromising needs of session stylists, this curated and exclusively professional styling range meets today’s hairdressers’ needs. 8 combinable, innovative, powerful and super light formulas empower you to bring your own vision to life.

@schwarzkopfprofessionalsouthafrica @schwarzkopfproza www.schwarzkopf-professional.com/za Contact us on zacustomersupport@henkel.com for more information.

Events

The BIG Buzz Business Conference

Bloemfontein A must attend conference, packed full of information that can help you to grow your business, whether a beauty salon, hair salon or spa. Great speakers, great topics, a great opportunity

How big brands work in marketing and promotion Meara has worked extensively in the Middle East helping big brands to promote their products in the beauty sector. She will be showing you how you can adapt these big ideas to the promotion of your business. Social media – get the lowdown on this ever changing marketing medium Understanding how social media works, the pitfalls in social media marketing, and how to use an influencer. This session will offer practical advice that will help dispel some of the myths regarding social media. Staff – how to manage, retain and recruit your team – Francisco Garcia Staff are key to any successful business and Miranda will be giving you awesome practical advice on the do’s and don’ts of managing staff. Stay ahead of trends and create a niche experience for clients An informative session aimed at keeping you and your business at the forefront of your clients’ minds.

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Monday 20 June Tuscan Rose Bloemfontein

12.15 Lunch and meet with the exhibitors Get motivated and get your business going Running a business can be a lonely journey; this session will help all those with their own business, or wanting to start out on their own, to get going and grow a successful business. Keeping it green We should all be caring more about the planet and its sustainability. There are many ways that we can all help within the beauty sector and Charne is a passionate advocate for this cause. The 7 habits of highly effective salon and spa operators Based on the book by Steven Covey, Marisa adapts the principles of the 7 habits to reflect our industry. These habits could help you get the most out of your personal growth and that of your business. The organisers reserve the right to change the programme at any time due to operational constraints

Interiors

Learn to

focus on you As a business owner, improving your relationship with yourself and making yourself a priority has many benefits, writes Liz McKeon By focusing on yourself, you will learn to ease stress and anxiety, take care of your health while making time to do the things you enjoy outside of your business. I know it’s hard to schedule ‘you’ time, but research shows that a little solitude helps productivity. To get started, I recommend: • Add more alone time to your schedule. Create time each week to sit quietly with your own thoughts. Choose a time that works for you and pick a spot where you won’t be interrupted. Once you get used to this, you will seriously value your solitude. • Take time to think and ask yourself questions about your life and your business. For example, what makes you happy in your work, or what would you like more/less of in your life, or are you on the right track to achieve your goals? • Treat yourself with kindness and patience. Ask yourself if you are as considerate to yourself as you are to others. If you don’t think so, make some changes. • Exercise most days and eat healthy to feel your best. Make a point to take great care of your body. • Spend at least a few minutes outdoors every day. • Sleep for 7 – 9 hours to reset your body and mind. When salon life gets too hectic, you might sacrifice sleep in order to get everything on your to do list completed. This can be counter productive as being overtired can make you cranky, exhausted and unfocused. Make it a priority to get into a positive sleep pattern by

going to sleep and waking up at roughly the same time each day. Yes, even on days off! • Put fun and relaxation activities on your calendar and make this a priority. Spend quality time with friends to let off steam. • Write a list of steps to take to improve your life. Check to see if your life and your business are heading in the right direction. You can create a list of goals that you want to achieve or experiences you’d like to have. Create action items that will get you closer to the work life balance you aspire to. If you have people or things in your life that make you unhappy, think about how to change them. Make a list of the adjustments you need to take to make things happen.

3 STEPS TO CELEBRATE YOUR STRENGTHS

Stop comparing yourself to others. Get in the habit of paying attention to your performance or feelings, rather than those of other people.

Give yourself a reward for reaching every goal because it is important to acknowledge yourself when you do something great.

Journal daily, as this is a great way to express your feelings without any fear of judgement.

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Liz McKeon is a business coach who specialises in thehairindustry. For details about business seminars and industry workshops go to www.lizmckeon. com

Interiors

It’s Not

ALL WHITE While a ‘suits-all’ interior can be a crowd-pleaser, if you’re looking to stamp your personality on to your salon décor, here are some tips for the perfect execution By Keeks Reid

Moodboarding magic

It’s always hard to know where to start with decorating any space, which is why a moodboard is always the best place to begin, especially when you’re opting for a non-traditional salon interior. “Moodboards allow you to see all the options at once, and when you’ve settled on a concept, you can keep track of the overall vibe, colour palette, textures and materials,” says Christopher Laird, co-owner of November Collective. “It’s so easy to get side-tracked when creating an interior concept – moodboards definitely helped us achieve our original vision.”

Let travel guide you…

Just like in-salon trends, travel can guide your interior choices too, meshing inspiration from different cultures and infusing the way that your experiences shaped your salon

BLUE TIT, GREENWICH décor. “From years of travelling around the world, self-development and experience has created the salon we have today,” says Dale Hollinshead, owner of Hazel & Haydn. “The design is a Scandi meets industrial raw aesthetic. We embrace the difference to stand out in our city.”

THE HAIR SURGERY

Spark joy!

You spend so much time in your salon (probably more than your actual home) so it should be a place that evokes happiness and your interiors can help with this. Whether that’s adding in touches of homestyle or creating breakout zones for chill and relaxation, let what makes you happy guide your décor choices. “My salon interior is totally based around my personal style,” says Adam Reed, founder of Adam Reed Salon. “It’s how I do my home interiors too; I really like individualism.”

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Takara Belmont Coff Styling Chair Every hairdressing service should be inviting and this is perfectly embodied in the Coff styling chair. With a thinner backrest, it lends itself perfectly to cutting longer hair.

REM Available as a 1, 2 or 3 position unit in 25 different fabric and laminate choices. It features a large Kiko basin, LED lighting around the base and plush and comfortable upholstery.

Business

Aston and Fincher The elegant Alpeda Elite Styling Chair is available in a choice of three different frame and base colours of black, gold or rose gold, and the upholstery is customisable with 39 different colours.

Alan Howard The smooth quartz grey fabric of the Duchess chair is super versatile. This new chair is finished with chrome arms, protective pads and sits on a chrome five-star base.

Maletti The Eden Plus system from Maletti gives the option to offer services with hot steam and rinses with atomised cold water. Plus, the reclining chair has an integrated massager.

Consider colour

Pick a paper palette

Some salons go all out with deeper paint colour choices everywhere, while others prefer to remain conservative with colour in the main salon areas, getting creative with furniture and décor items there instead. A reason for this? Paint can interfere with hair colour services. “Remember paint reflects on hair!” warns Dale. “I’ve always stayed quite neutral for styling/colouring areas. You can then inject bolder, brighter shades in non-hair areas such as the reception.”

Finding it difficult to cohesively work all your colours and interior ideas into one salon layout? Adam has a smart tip. “All of our colours were picked from a House of Hackney wallpaper that we loved – this saved the pain of wondering if they went together as we already knew they did.”

NOVEMBER COLLECTIVE

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HAZEL & HADYN

Salon Supplies The Iron Wash from Salon Supplies has an industrial, bold look with its matte black square metal frame. It’s also available as the Iron Wash - Relax version, which has a manual leg rest.

ADAM REED HAIR

Albert Ewan Design This retro chair is a new model from Greiner, a high quality German manufacturer. The chair is available with a selection of hydraulic base shades, including black [pictured].

No copies

Pick your pieces

Getting inspiration from other spaces can help guide your style, however remember there is a line between being inspired and copying. “Try to avoid copy-catting another place that you’ve seen,” says Adam. Speaking to others that have done the work themselves is helpful, but Christopher has this warning, “don’t be influenced by other people’s opinions. Advice is useful but remember, it’s your vision.”

Décor and furniture beyond the chairs and basins will give your space the individuality that’ll make your space distinctive – to find special items, look beyond the usual places. “I love Vinterior, eBay and Kempton Park Racecourse market,” says Adam who also advises looking for vintage fairs. “You’re getting unique pieces and you can also go back time and time again to find different items.”

Sustainablility

Staff issues - How to approach disciplinary Procedures Disciplinary action will be appropriate where a breach of the rule or standard cannot be condoned, or where counselling has failed to achieve the desired effect.

Meet with employee

I need to implement disciplinary procedures against one of my staff members. How should I proceed?

The purpose of a disciplinary code and procedure is to regulate standards of conduct and incapacity of employees within a company or organisation. The aim of discipline is to correct unacceptable behaviour and to adopt a progressive approach in the workplace. This also creates certainty and consistency in the application of discipline. Firstly, the employer needs to ascertain that all employees are aware of the rules and the reasonable standards of behaviour that are expected of

them in the workplace. Some rules or standards such as that of displaying honest behaviour, do not have to be in writing. The employee needs to comply with the disciplinary code and procedures at the workplace. Further, the employee also needs to ensure that he/she is familiar with the requirements in terms of the disciplinary standards in the workplace. There is a difference between disciplinary action and counselling. Counselling will be appropriate where the employee is not performing to a standard, or is not aware of a rule regulating conduct and/ or where the breach of the rule is relatively minor and can be condoned. online@saloninternational

Before deciding on the form of discipline, management must meet the employee in order to explain the nature of the rule or standard s/he is alleged to have breached. The employee should also be given the opportunity to respond and explain his/her conduct. If possible, an agreed remedy on how to address the conduct should be arrived at. Disciplinary action can take a number of forms, depending on the seriousness of the offence and whether the employee has breached the particular rule before. The following forms of discipline can be used (in order of severity): • Verbal warning • Written warning • Final written warning • Suspension without pay (for a limited period) • Demotion, as an alternative to dismissal only • Dismissal The employer should establish how serious an offence is, with reference to the disciplinary rules in its company or organisation.

Sustainablility If the offence is not very serious, informal disciplinary action can be taken by giving an employee a verbal warning. The law does not specify that employees should receive any specific number of warnings, for example, three verbal warnings or written warnings, and dismissal could follow as a first offence in the case of serious misconduct.

Formal steps

Formal disciplinary steps would include written warnings and the other forms of discipline listed above. A final written warning could be given in cases where the contravention of the rule is serious, or where the employee has received warnings for the same offence before. Where appeal procedures exist, an employee can appeal against a final warning. The employer can hold an enquiry if the employer believes that it is only through hearing evidence that the outcome can be determined. Written warnings often remain valid for 3 to 6 months. Final written warnings often remain valid for 12 months. A warning for one type of contravention is not applicable to another type of offence. In other words, a first written warning for latecoming could not lead to a second written warning for insubordination. Employees will be requested to sign warning letters as acknowledgement of receipt and will be given an opportunity to state their objections, should there be any. Should an employee refuse to sign a warning letter, this does not make the warning invalid. A witness will be requested to sign the warning, stating that the employee refused acknowledgement of receipt of the warning.

Dismissal

Dismissal is reserved for the most serious offences and will be preceded by a fair disciplinary enquiry, unless an exceptional

circumstance results in a disciplinary enquiry becoming either an impossibility (e.g. the employee absconded and never returned) or undesirable (e.g. holding an enquiry will endanger life or property). An employee may be suspended on full pay pending a hearing especially in instances when the employee’s presence may jeopardise any investigation. The employer must also allow the employee to make representations prior

to suspension. Additionally, the employer should give the employee not less than three days’ written notice of the enquiry and the notice should include: • The date, time and venue of the hearing. • Details of the allegations against the employee. • The employee’s right to representation at the hearing by either a fellow employee or shop steward/union official. • The employee’s right to an interpreter, if needed. • The right to call relevant witnesses in support of his or her case. Who should be present at the enquiry? • A chairperson • A management representative • The employee • The employee representative • Any witnesses for either party online@saloninternational

• An interpreter if required by the employee

How should a hearing be conducted?

The employer should lead evidence and the employee is then given an opportunity to respond. The chairperson may ask any witnesses questions of clarity. At the end, the chairperson decides whether the allegations against the employee have been proved on balance of probability. If guilty, the chairperson must ask both parties to make submissions on the appropriate disciplinary sanction. The chairperson must then decide what disciplinary sanctions to impose and inform the employee accordingly. The employee should be informed that s/he has right to appeal. If the company policy does not provide for an internal appeal procedure, the employee must be reminded that he/she could take the case further to the CCMA or relevant Bargaining Council. Failure to attend the hearing cannot stop the hearing from continuing, except if good cause can be shown for not attending. This procedure should not substitute disciplinary procedures subject to collective agreements. Parties can also request, by mutual consent, the CCMA or a Bargaining Council to appoint an arbitrator to conduct a final and binding disciplinary enquiry. The employer would be required to pay a prescribed fee if such an appointment is mutually requested. The above article was penned by the EOHCB (Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty). To make contact with the EOHCB go to www.eohcb.co.za

Fashion

HJ FASHION

WEEKEND

MILLIONAIRES A portrayal of characters who live solely for the weekend

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hji.co.uk

Fashion

“Presented at the Fellowship for British Hairdressing Members Night, each model told a unique story of why they got their hair cut for the weekend. From a warehouse raver to a street-level pharmacist, each model had a different story to tell.” Danny Robinson

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Fashion

HAIR: DANNY ROBINSON, PHOTOGRAPHY: DANNY ROBINSON

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Fashion

Curl Focus HJ chatted to Tom Connell, Davines creative director to find out more about the brand’s plans for curly hair education

Why is it crucial that stylists talk to curly-haired clients about their haircare regimes?

treat curls. For too long, as an industry, we’ve manipulated curls against where they naturally fall.

You need to talk them through the full regime, not just how to style curls. Because if you're not cleansing properly with a curl-specific shampoo and conditioner, then no matter how good the styling products are, they won't get good results.

HJ keeps hearing that curls are a ‘trend’. But surely it’s not a trend, it’s a hair type that needs proper education…

How is Davines creating informative education for the next generation of stylists?

We’re making steps to give stylists all the information they need in a more concise, more watchable, more refined format. As a starting point, we asked: “how do young For too long, as people consume media?” Well, it’s not 45 minute videos shot on a an industry, we’ve blank canvas, so we deliberately manipulated curls steered away from that type against where they of education.

Exactly, it’s a hair type. I don’t naturally fall like to use the word ‘trend’, If you could inspire because trends put people a stylist who isn’t curlinto boxes and now more than ever, people confident, what would you say? don't want to be in a box. Clients with curls want If you immerse yourself in the education, it's not to have the best version of their natural hair. scary. If you know the method, it removes the And to create that, hairdressers need proper fear because there's a certain guarantee: if you education. When people begin their career, follow the steps and respect the natural fall of the they don't spend enough time learning how to hair, you’re going to get great results. online@saloninternational

Fashion

Bright hues and pops of colour… all the best bits of summer in one shoot

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Fashion

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Fashion

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Fashion

HAIR: BROOKE EVANS ART TEAM: BROOKE EVANS, KATIE COOK AND MILLIE EVANS, MAKE-UP: GRACE GRAY, PHOTOGRAPHY: DAN THOMAS

“This shoot was inspired by good times and summer vibes. We wanted to capture character and do something that was fun, with a pop of colour.” Brooke Evans

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Fashion

HJ FASHION

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Fashion

DECADION Wonderfully unique and varied styles take centre stage

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Business

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HAIR: JOSEPH FERRARO ART TEAM, MAKE-UP: GRACE HAYWARD, STYLING: RUBINA MARCHIORI, PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMIE BLANSHARD

Business

“In celebration of our salon’s 10th anniversary, we wanted to present this collection to showcase our creative diversity” Joseph Ferraro

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Inspiration

Life LENS THROUGH A

Emmanuel Esteban

Avant-Garde Hairdresser of the Year, Emmanuel is known for his ingenious and visionary hairstyles, here he shares his seven favourite images

Texture Play

This look was inspired from a ceramic artist Leah Caplan who creates insane textures in her work.

Loud and Proud

Hair Couture

This look took me a long time to achieve. I wanted to produce a look that was inspired by a style of dress created by designer Iris Van Herpen.

Burnt Emerald

I love this shot, this texture along with the colour match have never been done before and has not yet been recreated, which is the goal when creating an Avant-Garde look.

This was my proudest shoot yet. I had to weave the hair similarly to how you would weave a carpet. It was difficult to achieve, but I loved the final look.

Up, Up and Away

It was a blast creating this look for Diva for our first ever campaign together. I envisioned an antigravity style and wanted the hair to appear as if it were floating.

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In the Wild

This shot was inspired by a range of paintings. Funnily, I painted this design on the day of the shoot just 20 minutes before this shot was taken so I could see my vision clearer.

Golden Girl

So much went into this image. I created this dramatic look and it has since been featured on a magazine front cover which was a very proud moment of mine.

Inspiration

We hope that you have enjoyed this edition of Salon International Magazine

We would welcome your

feedback. info@saloninternational.co.za

Plus, we would love to recieve contributions for articles to include in future issues.

If you have a collection of work that you would

like us to include, please do send that through for us to use.

Let’s show off the huge pool of talent that is

here in South Africa and show the world how inspirational we can be. info@saloninternational.co.za online@saloninternational