Pakistan Textile Journal, June 2021 by Pakistan Textile Journal

Established 1951 June 2021

Weaving

Calendar of Events

Index 2021 Apparel Sourcing Paris Autumn th

Dates: July 5 to 9 2021.

Dates: September 7th to 10th, 2021. Venue: Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland

FILTECH 2022 Dates: March 8th to 10th, 2022 Venue: Cologne, Germany.

Venue: Paris

FESPA 2021 Dates: October 12th to 15th 2021. Venue: Amsterdam.

ITM 2022

INTEX SOUTH ASIA 2021

Dates: June 14th to 18th, 2022.

Dates: July 7th to 9th 2021.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Venue: Colombo, Sri Lanka.

Textile Asia 2021, Lahore Dates: October 22th to 24th 2021. Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Textile Asia 2022, Karachi Apparel Sourcing Paris Autumn

Dates: March 26th to 28th 2022. Venue: Expo Centre, Karachi.

Dates: July 5th to 9th 2021.

Cinte Techtextil China International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens Dates: September 2022

Venue: Paris

Heimtextil 2022

Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China

Dates: January 11th to 14th 2022. Venue: Frankfurt am Main, Germany.

Home Textiles Sourcing Expo

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2022

Dates: July 20th to 22nd 2021. Venue: New York

DOMOTEX Hannover 2022 Dates: January 13th to 16th 2022.

Dates: November 20th to 24th, 2022. Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

Venue: Hannover, Germany.

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics - Autumn Edition Dates: Aug 25th to 27th 2021. Venue: Shanghai China.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

Istanbul Yarn Fair Dates: February 22nd to 26th 2022. Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

ITMA 2023 Dates: June 8th to 14th, 2023. Venue: Milan, Italy.

Founded in 1951 by Mazhar Yusuf (1924-2009) Vol. LXX No. 06 June 2021

Publisher Nadeem Mazhar

Rs. 450.00

EDITOR’S PAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Textile exports show consistent growth despite Covid 19 pandemic.

Editor in Chief Amina Baqai

TEXTILE BRIEFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Associate Editor Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon

NEWS & VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Production Manager Mazhar Ali

Hony-Editorial Board

AROUND THE WORLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

CORPORATE NEWS Rieter updates outlook for first half year 2021 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Dr. Hafizur Rehman Sheikh Ph.D (UK) F.T.I. (UK)

The new Jakob Müller website is a clear statement of customer focus . . . . . . .22 EFI Reggiani BOLT has reached an important milestone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Syed Mahfooz Qutab C.TEX, F.T.I (U.K), B.Sc. Fellow I.C.T.T Atlanta, GA; (USA)

Mian Iftkhar Afzal B.S.N.C State, M.Sc. (Leeds) C.TEXT.F.T.I (UK)

Dr. Zubair Bandukda PhD (Textiles), CText ATI

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Available on Gale and Factiva affiliated international databases through Asianet Pakistan

Printed at: Color Plus Korangi, Karachi. Published by Nadeem Mazhar from D-16, K.D.A. Scheme No.1. Karachi.

FEATURES U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol: Levi Strauss & Legacy brands as new members . . . . . .24 Swedish automation boosts Tritex sewing operations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Sateri to Expand Lyocell Production in China . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Automation made smarter — Zünd launches Cradle Feeder 100 . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Living in the world of sustainability . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

DYES AND CHEMICALS ARCHROMA releases its 2020 sustainability report . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

41 44 WEAVING Textile weaving sector: Current challenges and opportunities . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 by Prof. Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2021 The seventh ITMA ASIA + CITME to open in Shanghai with 1237 exhibitors . . . . .38 Italian companies at ITMA ASIA + CITME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Savio displays solutions-oriented portfolio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Virtual trip to Asia by VDMA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Rieter – Ensuring competitiveness through technology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Biancalani presents top textile machinery brand names . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 CHTC Fong’s: Innovate for a Smart Future . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

AUTEFA presents innovative solutions for the textile industry . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Experience Groz-Beckert in person and virtually at ITMA Asia 2021 . . . . . . . . .52 Santex Rimar shows fabric manufacturers’ favorites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Jeanologia: Sourcing model based on sustainability & digitalization . . . . . . . . .56 Loepfe showcases the market leading YarnMaster® PRISMA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Uster product launches and major innovations ready to go live . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Saurer to showcase automation innovations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 BRÜCKNER – at home in Shanghai! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 Picanol to premier GTMax-i3.0S and GTMax-S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63

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EDITOR’S PAGE

Textile exports show consistent growth despite Covid 19 pandemic The exports of textile commodities witnessed an increase of 17.35 percent during the first 10 months of the current fiscal year as compared to the corresponding period of the last year and surged by 213 percent on a year-onyear basis (YoY). The textile exports were recorded at $12692.840 million in July-April (202021) against the exports of $10816.276 million in July-April (2019-20), showing a growth of 17.35 percent, according to the latest data of the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS) issued here on Friday. The textile commodities that contributed in trade growth included knitwear, exports of which increased from $2392.064 million last year to $3126.095 million during the current year, showing growth of 30.69 percent. Likewise, the exports of yarn (other than cotton yarn) increased by 22.42 percent, from $22.051 million to $26.995 million whereas, exports of bed wear increased by 24.66 percent from $1838.449 million to $2291.779 million. The exports of towels increased by 27.18 percent, from $610.696 million to $776.708 million; exports of tents, canvas and tarpaulin grew by 21.86 percent, from $78.556 million to $95.725 million; readymade garments by 12.56 percent, from $2231.697 million to $2512.021 million; made-up articles, excluding towels and bead wear by 22.22 percent, from $513.405 million to $627.479 million while the exports of art, silk and synthetic textile increased from $272.919 to $301.634 million, showing growth of 10.52 percent.

Established 1951 June 2021

Weaving / Denim

June 2021.

Meanwhile, the commodities that witnessed negative growth in trade included raw cotton, exports of which decreased by 96.51 percent, from $17.002 million to $0.593 million; cotton yarn decreased by 4.03 percent, from $858.580 million to $823.948 million whereas the exports of cotton cloth also decreased by 1.24 percent, from $1601.650 million to $1581.564 million. The exports of all other textile materials also increased by 39.24 percent, from $379.362 million to $528.225 million, the PBS data revealed. On a year-on-year basis, the textile exports increased by 213.17 percent during the month of April 2021 as compared to the same month of the last year. The exports during April 2021 were recorded at $1,337.385 million against the exports of $403.833 million during April 2020. On a month-on-month basis, the exports from the country, however, witnessed a decrease of 3.21 percent during April 2021 when compared to the exports of $1355.542 million in March 2021.It is pertinent to mention here that the merchandise exports from the country increased by 13.49 percent during the first ten months of the current fiscal year. The exports from the country were recorded at $20.881 billion during July-April (2020-21) against the exports of $18.399 billion in July-April (201920). On the other hand, the merchandise imports into the country also increased by 17.67 percent by going up from $37.992 billion last year to $44.706 billion during the current year. Based on the figures, the trade deficit increased by 21.60 percent by swelling from $19.593 billion last year to $23.825 billion during the current fiscal year. 

Textile Briefs National

Total exports of textile and clothing were up 18.85pc to $13.748 billion between July and May this year against $11.567bn over the corresponding period in FY20. On a monthly basis, export proceeds posted a growth of 41.14pc on a year-on-year basis to $1.06bn in May 2021.

The Northumbria University and LUMS, in partnership with UPSIGN, is working with Pakistan and the UK’s top scientists to bring the country’s textile sector into a circular economy business model with zero waste.

The government is targeting exports of $28 billion next fiscal year as it plans to extend the duty-free import regime to more raw materials in the upcoming budget to support the manufacturers.

The value-added textile exports associations in their budget proposals have demanded the federal government to restore zerorating, continue duty drawback of taxes (DDT) and Technology Up-gradation Fund (TUF) scheme, and to lower final tax and withholding tax in Budget 2021-22.

The imposition of 17% GST has made textile exporters, especially

SMEs, financially unviable as their liquidity, without any purpose, is stuck and they throughout the year face financial difficulties in fulfilling their export commitments, paying utility expenses and salaries to staff and labourers and are also reluctant to take new export orders.

Local cotton prices were stable as the mills actively bought silver fibre, while around 15,000 bales from new crop were traded in June. Around 12 cotton ginning factories have started partial operations in Sindh, while five ginning factories in Punjab are processing Sindh’s cotton.

Problems of textile industry will be solved in consultation with industrialists and traders. According to the vision of Prime Minister Imran Khan, the government had not only dragged country out of the quagmire but also put it on way to progress and prosperity.

According to foreign research agency, Pakistan’s cotton production is expected to reach 5.3 million bales during the upcoming fiscal year 202122 from 4.5 million bales in the current financial year despite balanced risks to the textile crop. 

Textile Briefs International

The Australian fashion and textile industry contributed more than Au$27.2 bn to the country’s economy in 2020-21. The sector employing 489,000 Australians and generated Au$7.2 bn in export revenue, totaling 1.7 per cent of all Australian exports.

According to an analysis report, Bangladesh’s garment industry, could reduce its annual spending by half a billion dollars if it recycled cotton waste from its factories and fabric mills.

Readymade Garments Export Council of Egypt (RMGEC) has been working to increase exports during the novel

3 8

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic by reducing prices and bearing part of the losses. India's Covid crisis has ripple effects for garment industry worldwide and forcing garment factories to shut down or work at half capacity to stem new cases, so the retail suppliers are scrambling to move production to China.

Indonesia's textiles industry, among others, is getting ready to implement Industry 4.0 programs that will boost efficiency and competitiveness. Their ministry has provided facilities for structuration in the textiles, leather and footwear industry through

renewal of machinery with advanced technologies. Japan's imports of

clothing and accessories declined by 13.2

per cent year-on-year to 2,710.029 billion yen ($24.72 billion) in Japanese fiscal year 2020 ending March 31, 2021, according to trade statistics from the ministry of finance. According to a report,

the UK textile industry must focus on resource

efficiency, end-of-life recyclability and sustainable development from renewable natural materials and that needs immediate action to reduce further damage to the planet.

COTTON USA and India’s COTAAP have created awareness among Indian consumers about how cotton is beneficial to the environment and encouraged them to choose cotton clothing throughout the year. Cotton USA strives to produce the most sustainable cotton in the world.

Importers of Vietnamese textile and garment products have been opening up opportunities for enterprises to boost production and expand export markets. Their export turnover of the sector was nearly $9.7 billion in the first four months of 2021—an increase of 10.7 per cent over the same period last year.

News & Views

Textile, clothing exports soar to $13.7bn in 11 months Pakistan’s exports of textile and clothing sectors posted nearly 19 per cent growth in the 11 months of current fiscal year (11MFY21) compared to the same period a year ago, data released by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics recently. Total exports of textile and clothing were up 18.85pc to $13.748 billion between July and May this year against $11.567bn over the corresponding period in FY20. On a monthly basis, export proceeds posted a growth of 41.14pc on a year-on-year basis to $1.06bn in May 2021. Exports of ready-made garments were up by 14.35pc to $2.706bn in 11MFY21 against $2.367bn over the corresponding months of last year. Knitwear exports were up 32.70pc to $3.414bn against $2.572bn over the corresponding months of last year. Exports of bed-wear increased by 24.60pc to $2.472bn this year against 1.984bn in FY20. Similarly, in the value-added leather sector, exports of leather garments up by 9.92pc, leather gloves 19.08pc respectively. Exports of raw leather declined by over 17pc during these months.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

In the non-value added sector, exports of cotton cloth posted a paltry growth of 0.97pc in 11MFY21 from a year ago. Similarly, exports of cotton yarn declined by 1.60pc and raw cotton 96.51pc. It clearly indicates that these raw materials were consumed mostly by the value-added sector as the government allowed duty-free import of these products. Exports of cotton carded were up by 3.17pc and yarn other than cotton yarn by 20.24pc during the period under review.

UK, Pakistan Researchers Join Hands to promote Pakistan’s Textile Industry The Northumbria University and LUMS, in partnership with UP-SIGN,are working with Pakistan and the UK’s top scientists to bring the country’s textile sector into a circular economy business model with zero waste. A texonomy workshop, funded by the British Council, was held to bring together textile stakeholders including academia, industry and policy makers to develop ideas around circular economy in Pakistan. Mr. Mike Nithavrianakis, Deputy High Commissioner of Great Britain and Trade for Pakistan inaugurated the online workshop held recently. He put emphasis on the need for a combined approach to

Mr. Mike Nithavrianakis, Deputy High Commissioner of Great Britain and Trade for Pakistan inaugurated

address climate change which is affecting textile and associated communities. He appreciated the funding from British Council and partners leading this collaborative opportunity. Mr. Shafiq Ahmed, Head of Trade and Investment at Pakistan High Commission London said, “The Texonomy debate is timely as Pakistan hosted the world environment day and committed to restoring damaged ecosystems. We need innovative and sustainable solutions to protect supply chain of cotton through conserving soil and water, and promoting varieties that need less water, and are pest and disease resistant.”

Currently, Pakistan’s textile industry provides employment to almost 40% of the country’s total labour force. The country is extremely vulnerable to climate change, making it even more crucial for the country’s textile industry, as well as in India, Bangladesh and other parts of Southeast Asia, to tackle global climate challenges. Dr. Naveed Arshad, Associate Professor and Chair of the Computer Science department, LUMS, texonomy lead from Pakistan, and Director, Centre for Big Data and Cloud Computing, said that the textile industry needs to diversify its textile outputs. It is essential for value addition to produce high value goods with lesser carbon footprints.

Textile exporters demand zero rating, lower taxes The value-added textile exports associations in their budget proposals have demanded the federal government to restore zero-rating, continue duty drawback of taxes (DDT) and Technology Up-gradation Fund (TUF) scheme, and to lower final tax and withholding tax in Budget 2021-22. Addressing a joint press conference at Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PHMA) House, leaders of the associations demanded to reduce WHT rate to 0.5 percent, to suspend Export Development Fund (EDF) surcharge, and to reduce and fix Mohammad Zubair tariffs of electricity in the Motiwala forthcoming budget. Council of All Pakistan Textile Mills Associations Chairman Zubair Motiwala, Pakistan Apparel Forum Chairman Jawed Bilwani, PHMA Chairman Tariq Munir and other leaders of different associations participated in the joint press conference. Motiwala said they have submitted budget proposals to the federal government wherein the top demand was to restore zero rating on GST “No Payment No Refund Regime” through revival of SRO 1125 in letter and spirit. The demand was made because SME exporters have been closed down and decreased by 30 percent as

News & Views compared to last year due to imposition of 17 percent GST, which blocked precious liquidity. They highlighted that despite Covid19, textile exports have increased by 17.35 percent as compared to last year and would reach $15.50 billion in FY 2020-21. They said that it was on record that due to commencement and payments of DLTL scheme in 2009, textile exports had increased by 7.3 percent in 2010 and by 35 percent in 2011. However, in 2012, textile exports decreased by 10.66 percent due to withheld payments of DLTL. With the introduction of TUF scheme in 2009, 30 percent capacity of textile sector has been enhanced. Therefore, it is imperative to reinstate TUF scheme for the next five years. The speakers said that 0.25 percent EDF surcharge was deducted from export proceeds of the exporters for export development since 1992. Collection of EDF surcharge was approximately Rs 9 billion annually. Presently, the government has Rs58 billion in its kitty on account of EDF. Hence, they demanded the government to suspend collection of surcharge till the Rs 58 billions of EDF was exhausted. To compete internationally and capture more markets, it is crucial that tariff of electricity, indigenous gas and RLNG for exporters should be fixed at 7.5 cents/kwh, Rs 819/MMBTU and $6.5/MMBTU respectively for the next five years and the same should be applied countrywide.

Textile sectors’ demands were not considered in the Federal Budget The value-added textile sector has requested the finance minister for an urgent meeting, saying their demands were not considered in the federal budget for fiscal year 2021-22. Welcoming the budget, the exporters have said that the federal budget for FY22 is better as compared to previous budgets, however, their most anticipated demands for the restoration of GST zero rating (no payment, no refund system), reduction in withholding tax (WHT) rate to 0.5% and suspension of EDF surcharge were not given due consideration, which

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

has caused dissatisfaction and annoyance. The imposition of 17% GST has made textile exporters, especially SMEs, financially unviable as their liquidity, without any purpose, is stuck and they throughout the year face financial difficulties in fulfilling their export commitments, paying utility expenses and salaries to staff and labourers and are also reluctant to take new export orders. The demands were made at a press conference held by various value-added textile associations before the announcement of budget. According to records, 33% of SME exporters have closed their export business as compared to last year due to the imposition of 17% GST, which blocked exporters’ liquidity, said Muhammad Jawed Pakistan Apparel Bilwani, Chairman, Forum Chairman Pakistan Apparel Forum Jawed Bilwani. “With the continuation of 17% GST in 2021-22, many more SME textile exporters, who managed to survive last year, are feared to close down in the wake of liquidity pressure,” he added. The government has reduced customs duty, additional customs duty and regulatory duty on the import of goods falling under 589 PCT codes to incentivize the textile industry, said Pakistan Cloth Merchants Association Chairman Abdus Samad. However, customs duty, additional customs duty and regulatory duty on disperse dyes PCT 3204.1100, VAT dyes PCT 3204.1590, reactive dyes 3204.1600 and liquid (pigments) 3204.1720 have not been reduced or exempted. All Pakistan Textile Processing Mills Association Chairman Zulfiqar Chaudry said the valueadded textile sector has also submitted a proposal for the reduction and fixation of tariffs Mr. Zulfiqar Ali, of electricity. Chairman,APTPMA

Problems of textile industry to be solved, Farrukh Habib Problems of textile industry will be solved in consultation with industrialists and traders, said State Minister for Information & Broadcasting Farrukh Habib. Addressing a reception hosted in his honor by former Chairman All Pakistan Cotton Power Looms Association (APCPLA) Chaudhary Javaid Sadiq Kahlon recently, he said that according to the vision of Prime Minister Imran Khan, the government had not only dragged country out of the quagmire but also put it on way to progress and prosperity. He said that in the past, Pakistani rulers used to rush for getting loans from IMF and other international institutions but today, these institutions were backing down and willing to give loan to Prime Minister Imran Khan but we will not take any new loan. He said that Prime Minister Imran Khan was a visionary leader who wanted to promote industrial and Mr. Imran Khan, economic Prime Minister of Pakistan activities in the country and due to his strenuous efforts, not only wheel of industries remained operational and but new machinery worth Rs.432 billion was also imported for industrial sector first time in history of Pakistan. He said that government will present pro-people and business friendly budget for next fiscal year and no new tax would be added in it for greater national interest as well as to bring maximum forex in Pakistan. He said that government had decided not to increase electricity and petrol prices though prices of these commodities witnessed increase in the international market. The government intends to promote value added textile and sufficient funds would be earmarked in the upcoming budget for various public welfare projects including housing scheme, Insaf Sehat Card and Kamyab Jawan Program.

Pakistan likely to produce 5.3m bales of cotton in 2021-22 Pakistan’s cotton production is expected to reach 5.3 million bales during the upcoming fiscal year 2021-22 from 4.5 million bales in the current financial year despite balanced risks to the textile crop, according to foreign research agency. However, Pakistan’s official estimates show that cotton production in the current financial year reached 5.645 million bales. Sharing the global cotton statistics, the agency said that “bad weather in the US and low prices at the time of plantings will lead to a 4.9 percent decline in global cotton production in 2020-21.” While sharing the future outlook, the research arm of the New-York based rating agency said that “we made significant downward revisions to our country production forecasts for 2020/21 last November 2020 and March 2021, and are maintaining our outlook in this quarterly update. However, the outlook for the 2021/22 season has somewhat deteriorated in several markets recently, and we now expect global production to grow by 4.7 percent (5.3 percent previously). We revised down slightly our production forecasts for China and India.” On the other hand, they pointed out that cotton consumption declined by a sharp 13.4% in 2020 due to the Covid-led economic recession and lockdowns, which greatly disrupted retail activities. However, it expects consumption to rebound in 2021, by 12.7 percent on a year-on-year basis while absolute consumption to fully recover by 2022. “The strong ongoing economic recovery in 2021 means that the textile industry will replenish their stocks this year, boding well for cotton demand. The pick-up in consumption will carry on but slow down into 2022 (+5.0 percent), when we see it reaching pre-pandemic levels in absolute terms,” it said. Commenting on prices, the report said, “We expect prices to average at an elevated USc87.0/lb in 2021, compared with the year-to-date average of USc85.2/lb. This forecast suggests that prices would average at their highest level since 2011. We see prices remaining elevated in the coming quarters as supply is tight amid the robust Covid-19 economic recovery and a strong pick-up in demand in 2021. We see prices trading in the USc80-100/lb range in the coming months. We see strong resistance at the USc100/lb level, last reached in February 2021.” 

Around the World

AUSTRALIA Textile sector contributed Au$27.2 bn to Australian economy in 2020-21 The Australian fashion and textile industry contributed more than Au$27.2 bn to the country’s economy in 2020-21, according to a recent report. The sector employing 489,000 Australians (315,000 full time) - more than mining, utilities or arts and recreation industries, generated Au$7.2 bn in export revenue, totaling 1.7 per cent of all Australian exports. The Australian fashion and textile industry creates opportunities for women,

with 77 per cent of the workforce female, compared to the national average of 47 per cent, as per the Australian Fashion Council (AFC) report titled High Fashion to High Vis: The Economic Contribution of Australia’s Fashion and Textile Sector, commissioned to EY and supported by Afterpay. While the industry was able to weather the worst effects of COVID-19 with a strong shift towards online sales, the research said that leading industry challenges are rising business costs and supply chain volatility. For future growth, areas of continued focus for the industry will be responsible, circular business models where sustainable sourcing and recycling are paramount.

“This ground-breaking report highlights the true economic clout of our dynamic and diverse industry. Until now, the comprehensive value of the industry’s economic contribution – and its predominantly female workforce – has not been fully recognized. Now we can better understand the impact of this sector’s significant role in Australia’s creative economy, and the substantial potential of its future,” said AFC CEO, Leila Naja Hibri. The report is the most comprehensive study of the entire fashion and textile ecosystem in Australia. It shifts the focus from consumer trends towards the industrial economic and workforce contribution, its current challenges and what will shape its future development, the AFC said in a press release.

BANGLADESH Bangladesh garment industry could save $500 million a year by recycling cotton Bangladesh’s garment industry, the world’s second-largest exporter of clothes, could reduce its annual spending by half a billion dollars if it recycled cotton waste from its factories and fabric mills.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

Previously, the South Asian nation imported about 1.6 million tons of cotton, at a cost of $3.5 billion, while producing 250,000 tons of cotton waste that could have been recycled, said new analysis from the Circular Fashion Partnership (CFP), a project that promotes recycled materials in fashion. The “100% pure cotton waste”, which includes cuttings and yarn from the end of bobbins, could reduce imports by 15% and save about half a billion dollars, according to the CFP. “These findings demonstrate that a circular fashion system could breed not only environmental but financial benefits for a country,” said Federica Marchionni, CEO of the nonprofit Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), which leads the partnership. Currently, local collectors of cotton waste tend to use it as filling for mattresses or export it to other countries for recycling. Manufacturers also incinerate cotton for energy, according to Holly Syrett, GFA’s senior sustainability manager. But the waste is informally controlled and not well traced. “By segregating waste at source and setting up traceability, we can ensure that textile waste always reaches its highest value,” Syrett said in emailed comments. In 2018, the global fashion sector’s greenhouse gas emissions were about 2 billion tonnes - and this needs to be halved by 2030, to align with global climate goals, the GFA said. Reducing planet-heating emissions and boosting circularity go hand in hand, it added. According to 2020 research by the GFA and consultancy McKinsey & Company, the fashion industry accounts for 4% of global emissions, equal to the annual total of France, Germany and Britain combined. Under the 2015 Paris climate accord, nearly 200 countries agreed to slash their emissions to net-zero by mid-century and limit global average temperature rise to “well below” 2 degrees Celsius above preindustrial times. Bangladesh’s carbon emissions are minimal compared to the developed world, but its economy is heavily dependent on the garment industry which accounts for 80% of its exports and employs more than 4 million people. “Bangladesh produces arguably the most recyclable textile waste of any apparel-producing country,” Nin Castle, head of recycling at Reverse Resources, a CFP partner, said in a statement. Castle urged the country to foster a recycling industry to reap the “benefits of cost and carbon footprint reduction” and to gain “massive competitive edge”. Investing in recycling capacity can also help create jobs, said Syrett. “There is a huge potential ... and we hope that more recyclers will establish in Bangladesh,” she added. Faruque Hassan, president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, said

Around the World factories were “enthusiastic” about the circular economy, but urged caution until the potential impacts for manufacturers and solutions - were better known.

EGYPT Egypt seeks to increase readymade garments exports despite COVID-19 Readymade Garments Export Council of Egypt (RMGEC) has been working to increase exports during the novel coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic by reducing prices and bearing part of the losses. Council Chairperson Mary Lewis and members of the council’s Board of Directors praised the Egyptian Government’s efforts, led by: Prime Minister Mostafa Madbouly; Minister of Trade and Industry Nevine Gamea; and Amany Al-Wassal, Executive Director of the Export Development Fund (EDF). The council lauded the efforts to study and approve Egypt’s new export support program. In a statement issued recently, Lewis said that the main goal was to maintain the reputation of Egyptian ready-made garments exports in global markets and confirm the ability of factories to overcome the crisis. This would in turn prove the sector’s sustainability, and maintain the volume of sales.

On the other hand, the sector’s exporters succeeded in maintaining labour intensity within factories, whilst encouraging the investment climate for the establishment of industrial projects. Lewis added that the council seeks to introduce new exporters and small designers to the export market as one of the mechanisms to promote the export of more Egyptian products based on the latest marketing methods. This is in line with the new conditions imposed by the COVID-19 pandemic and global trends that showed the importance of emarketing. Several virtual meetings were organised between the sector’s exporters and foreign buyers from countries such as Jordan and Saudi Arabia, to discuss cooperation opportunities to export

Egyptian products. Lewis revealed that the RMGEC has participated in global virtual exhibitions, which included many buyers from various global markets. She noted that the council developed promotional tools for the sector’s exporters. Lewis also said that the future of Egypt’s clothes exports is bright, as the sector has seriously addressed the obstacles that could face exporters. She demanded that 30% of the value of infrastructure for shipments from July 2019 until June 2020 be disbursed in cash, in order to compensate for losses. The RMGEC announced that the sector’s exports increased 36% during the period from January to April 2021 to record $588m, compared to $433m during the same period last year.

INDIA India's Covid crisis has ripple effects for garment industry worldwide As the coronavirus pandemic tears across India, forcing garment factories to shut down or work at half capacity to stem new cases, retail suppliers are scrambling to move production to China. But with trade war tariffs still in play, the shift could mean higher prices for U.S. consumers. Infections have swelled in India since February, with more contagious variants spreading as massive crowds gather for religious festivals and political rallies. With around 22 million confirmed infections,

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

health experts have warned the worst is still ahead. While clothing suppliers say they can absorb the costs in the short term, analysts say retailers will eventually have to raise prices, unless suppliers can find cheaper labor and production options. “Once India opens back up, things will pivot back because the consumer can’t be hit,” Brett Rose, CEO of United National Consumer Suppliers, an international retail wholesale and distribution company, told media. “Now, more than ever, we want to buy new shirts, new pants and new bags. A closed factory doesn’t help that.” As virus case counts in the U.S. continue to decline, spending is roaring back in anticipation of in-person socializing, office life and the return to inperson schooling. Consumer spending, which accounts for two-thirds of economic growth, increased by 10.7 percent in the first quarter, according to the Commerce Department. Stimulus checks have padded some wallets, and personal household income is at a record high. Gross domestic product growth hit 6.4 percent last quarter. “It’s just a perfect storm right now,” said Rose, whose partner factories in India are not expected to return to production in June. “We just have to run out of fabric.” India makes up about 16 percent of textile imports to the U.S. and about 5 percent of apparel and accessories, according to an analysis of U.S. International Trade Commission data by the Peterson Institute for International Economics. While the country constitutes

a smaller fraction of imports as compared to China, it still plays a significant role in certain sectors, including raw gems, which makes it difficult to move supply chains outside the country, said Mary Lovely, a senior fellow at the Peterson Institute and an economics professor at Syracuse University. “If India dropped off the face of the world, where you would notice an impact is certainly in manufactured goods, textile and mill products and things like cloth and towels,” she said. “You don't just move supply chains. They’re not like pins on a map.” Gap Inc. CEO Sonia Syngal told investors that the company is facing supply chain and raw material challenges from countries where it sources goods, including India.

INDONESIA Indonesia's textiles industry gears up for Industry 4.0 Indonesia's textiles industry, among others, is getting ready to implement Industry 4.0 programs that, according to the country's industry ministry, will boost efficiency and competitiveness. The ministry has provided facilities for structuration in the textiles, leather and footwear industry through renewal of machinery with advanced technologies. The various programs outlined by the ministry to implement the roadmap of 'Making Indonesia 4.0' include assessment of Indonesia Industry 4.0 Readiness Index (INDI 4.0), implementation and adoption of the

Around the World Industry 4.0 technology in the textiles and garment sector, improvement in the flow of materials in the petrochemical industry, and the establishment of textiles and textiles industry pilot project in Industry 4.0. The ministry has already conducted technical training and training for transformation managers in developing the Indonesia Smart Textile Industry Hub (ISTIH). Industry is now a national priority, with exports in 2020 having reached $33.99 billion. Investments of Rp61.97 trillion were also realised during the period.

JAPAN Japan's clothing imports fell 13.2% in 2020-21 Japan's imports of clothing and accessories declined by 13.2 per cent year-on-year to 2,710.029 billion yen ($24.72 billion) in Japanese fiscal year 2020 ending March 31, 2021. Of this, 92.86 per cent or 2,516.721 billion yen ($22.96 billion) worth of goods were imported from Asia, according to trade statistics from the ministry of finance.

TURKEY Turkish Textile Industry Seeks Global Partnerships in PostCovid Era The Turkish textile industry hopes to hit the ground running in the post-Covid era by forging lucrative partnerships with globally recognized brands and textile companies. “The imminent recovery of international trade offers enormous opportunities for cooperation between Turkish textiles firms and foreign partners,” Ahmet Öksüz, president of the Istanbul Textile and Raw Materials Exporters Association, says. “The agreement is a concrete example of the sector’s ability to quickly adapt to change, and we fully comply with all EU standards, including the European Green Deal” “We are going through times that global brands and especially technical

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textile companies need more and more cooperation. By establishing win-win relationships, we wish to turn pandemic era into an era of opportunities,” he adds. “Our domestic textile sector boasts a number of top-notch businesses that have already proven themselves in the global marketplace.” According to Öksüz, considering the upward momentum at the field of technical textiles in recent years the sector’s impressive production capacity along with Turkey’s strategic position between Europe and Asia, “offer the chance for potential partnerships that could bring tremendous benefits to all stakeholders and will soon be reflected in our trade figures.” ‘Turkey is the fifth largest textile supplier in the world’ The world’s fifth largest supplier of textiles, Turkey expects to export roughly $12 billion worth of textiles, reaching to $30 billion in 2021 including apparel industry. The sector currently employs more than one million skilled labor.

UGANDA

Development report, indicates that because of this, Uganda is stuck at the bottom of the cotton value chain thus experiencing an unfavourable trade balance with the country exporting primarily raw materials to import finished goods. The study, which indicates that although this is not unique to cotton, notes it is more pronounced in the "textiles industry, where Uganda exports cotton lint and imports manufactured cloths, both new and second-hand". Uganda currently spends at least $210m annually on textile imports, mainly from Asia and the Middle East. However, the import bill is mostly comprised of second hand clothes, which have since 2001 increased fivefold from $27.4m (Shs102b) to more than $137m (Shs511b), according to a report by Economic Research Policy Centre. However, cotton, one of the main ingredients in textiles manufacturing, remains a key foreign exchange earner for Uganda with more than 90 per cent of the commodity exported. Cotton ranks among Uganda's top five export commodities.

Uganda: Less Than 10 Percent of Uganda's Cotton Is Consumed Locally Under or less than 10 per cent of cotton produced in Uganda is processed and consumed locally, according to a study conducted by Dr Isaac MB Shinyekwa, a senior research fellow at the Economic Policy Research Centre. The study contained in a United Nations Conference on Trade and

Locally, according to experts in the cotton value chain, the less than 10 per cent of the commodity that is not exported is processed into lint and used in the manufacture of garments, a key target under the Buy Uganda Build Uganda policy, which seeks to enhance locally made products. The country, which has been facing a number of challenges in the export sector, wants to focus on the domestic

and regional markets to accelerate the Buy Uganda Build Uganda policy. Uganda's cotton income, according to data from Bank of Uganda, has in the last 12 months experienced a drastic drop, declining by at least 76 per cent during the period. Cotton, which until 2001, was Uganda's third biggest export commodity, has suffered a number of challenges raging from climate change and competition from other non-traditional cash crops.

UNITED KINGDOM UK report on circular textiles calls for radical change in industry The textile industry must focus on resource efficiency, end-of-life recyclability and sustainable development from renewable natural materials and that needs immediate action to reduce further damage to the planet, according to a new report by UK-based Professional Clothing Industry Association Worldwide Ltd. (PCIAW) and Business in the Community (BITC). The report on circular textiles looks at the environmental implications of current textile wastage, alongside ongoing research and cutting-edge practices that should lead to an increase in corporate environmental responsibility in future years. It aims to educate manufacturers, suppliers, buyers and designers in the principles and practices of circularity in textiles for work wear, including personal protective equipment and corporate wear. It details best practice in the disposal of textiles and looks at how circularity can be designed-in to the whole process of making, using and re-using textiles, a press release from the publishers said. PCIAW aims at reducing excess consumption, getting businesses on board with the message. Textiles account for 10 per cent of global carbon emissions, 20 per cent of global industrial wastewater pollution and less than 1 per cent of material used in the production of clothing is recycled into new clothing at its end-of-life stage.

Around the World This report serves as a guide for the government-backed Textiles 2030 initiative, which aims to massively cut textile waste and has been created as an overview of the current state of the sector. It reviews current principles and practices in the textile industry and focuses on the present facilities available for recycling technologies and renewable energy.

Marcus Gover, CEO of WRAP, a nongovernmental organisation who is leading the project, said: ‘The UK Parliament has investigated the textiles sector twice in recent years and is now looking at UK fashion companies to act.

To achieving these aims, the report suggests manufacturing locally to reduce waste and stimulate local economies disrupted by the pandemic, extended producer responsibility (EPR), design-in recyclability, end-of-life procedures, and remove obstacles relating to recyclable textiles for buyers, suppliers, and manufacturers who are looking at implementing these into their supply chain.

‘Brand and retail signatories must show their commitment by signing up to Textiles 2030. Businesses who fail to engage will be noticeable by their absence.’

New project will help the textile sector to reduce its environmental impact A new project will aim to transform the UK’s fast fashion culture into one where products are made sustainably and then re-used or recycled. The Textiles 2030 project is backed by the government and has signatures from John Lewis, Primark, Sainsbury’s and Marks & Spencer. The University of Leeds School of Design will provide expertise to support organisations such as clothing brands and recycling organisations as they set targets, measure the impact of products and track progress towards national targets as part of the initiative. The environmental targets are: Cut carbon by 50%, sufficient to put the UK textiles sector on a path consistent with limiting global warming to 1.5°C, in line with the Paris Agreement on climate change and achieving Net Zero by 2050 at the latest; Reduce the aggregate water footprint of new products sold by 30%. This target-based approach will be used so that textiles businesses set tough targets, measure impact and track progress on both an individual business basis, and towards national targets and public reporting.

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‘Textiles 2030 is about transforming textiles and creating a fashion sector fit for the future. We need fast, effective action from businesses more than ever.

Environment minister Rebecca Pow added: ‘It is time for businesses across the textiles sector to join Textiles 2030 and play their part at this critical time for the planet. ‘Through Textiles 2030 we invite your commitment to work with WRAP, likeminded businesses and other partners towards a thriving, sustainable, circular UK textiles sector. I would like to see every CEO involved in this initiative.’

VIETNAM Vietnam's textile-garment makers tap prospects as restrictions lifted As COVID-19-related restrictions are being gradually lifted in many countries, importers of Vietnamese textile and garment products have been opening up opportunities for enterprises to boost production and expand export markets. According to the Vietnam’s general department of customs, the export turnover of the sector was nearly $9.7 billion in the first four months of 2021— an increase of 10.7 per cent over the same period last year.

The US continued to be the largest importer of Vietnam’s textile and garment products at $4.7 billion during this period, a year-on-year (YoY) increase of 18.7 per cent, accounting for 48.7 per cent of the country's total export value of textiles and garments, followed by Japan at $1.07 billion and the European Union (EU) at $942 million, according to a news agency report. Textile and garment enterprises have signed orders until the end of third quarter. Many units have signed contracts for orders until the end of the year and are entering into negotiations for 2022. Businesses in the sector are aiming to achieve an export turnover of $39 billion this year.

Vietnam's garment export up 15% in 5 months Vietnam raked in over 12.2 billion U.S. dollars from exporting textile and garment between January and May, up 15 percent against the same period last year, according to the country's General Statistics Office. In May alone, Vietnam's textile and garment exports rose 35.1 percent year on year to around 2.6 billion U.S. dollars. Over the five-month period, markets including the United States, the European Union and Japan were still key importers of Vietnam's textile and garment. However, higher prices of input materials are lowering the profit earned by local firms from exporting textile and garment, said the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association. In 2020, Vietnam recorded an export turnover of 29.5 billion U.S. dollars from textile and garment products, down 10.2 percent from 2019, according to the General Statistic Office.

Rieter updates outlook for first half year 2021 Rieter received orders of around CHF 300 million. The order intake in April was broadly based internationally with the main focus on Turkey, Uzbekistan and India. In addition to the regional development of the market, Rieter also attributes the business performance to a catch-up effect due to the low propensity to invest in 2019/2020. As a result, Rieter expects an order intake of around CHF 800 million in the first half of 2021. As already announced, Rieter anticipates that sales in the first half of 2021 will be below the break-even point. Rieter expects an operating profit for the full year 2021. On July 15, 2021 Rieter will give an updated outlook for 2021 in connection with the semi-annual results, taking into consideration the ongoing challenges resulting from the COVID-19 pandemic. The Rieter Board of Directors has approved the implementation of the CAMPUS project. The Rieter CAMPUS comprises a customer and technology center as well as an administration building at the Winterthur location. It will make an important contribution to the implementation of the innovation strategy and to the enhancement of Rieter’s technology leadership position.

About Rieter Rieter is the world’s leading supplier of systems for shortstaple fiber spinning. Based in Winterthur (Switzerland), the company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and manmade fibers and their blends into yarns. Rieter is the only supplier worldwide to cover both spinning preparation processes and all four end spinning processes currently established on the market. Furthermore, Rieter is a leader in the field of precision winding machines. With 15 manufacturing locations in ten countries, the company employs a global workforce of some 4 420, about 21% of whom are based in Switzerland. Rieter is listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange under ticker symbol RIEN.

Disclaimer All statements in this report which do not refer to historical facts are forecasts which offer no guarantee whatsoever with respect to future performance; they embody risks and uncertainties which include but are not confined to future global economic conditions, exchange rates, legal provisions, market conditions, activities by competitors and other factors which are outside the company’s control.

Start page of the new Jakob Müller Group website.

Corporate News

Your world – our technology The new Jakob Müller website is a clear statement of customer focus In the textile industry, it might well be a unique idea. One of the world’s leading machinery suppliers has just launched its new website – in which the company’s renowned technology is firmly relegated to a back seat. Instead Jakob Müller Group is offering a fresh and innovative web experience which sets out its priorities with total clarity. Of course, Jakob Müller is known worldwide as a manufacturer of systems and solutions for narrow fabric production. Its research, development and production of top technology has evolved continuously since its foundation in 1887. Innovation has always been at the core of this success story, based on recognition of customer needs and demands. And that customer focus now takes centre stage in the completely reconceived website.

Welcome home The concept aims to take visitors to www.mueller-frick.com instantly into a familiar world, with a feeling of ‘coming home’ and comfortable sensations of happy childhood memories. It’s designed to offer a welcome to memorable moments, enfolding the visitor in a purelife experience which creates a lasting impression. This welcome to Jakob Müller Group might be a surprise. But it signals the

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group’s wish to become part of the customer’s whole world, showing how it already empowers countless products used, without a second thought, in everyday life. The design concept uses discreet visual hints to point up awareness of some of these items we often take for granted. Fashion, home textiles, automotive, medical and industry – all these are fields in which Jakob Müller helps to shape the future. And these sectors are used as anchors for website orientation, with red frames guiding the visitor through the wide application ranges. At a single click, users can find the best way to manufacture a specific product. Professionals in the narrow fabrics and ribbon industry can access detailed information on every aspect of their work. The range spans yarn warping to the finished product, crochet knitting to woven labels, and individual machines to complete system solutions.

Explore the right partnership Jakob Müller Group is keen to show what its products and ideas can mean for everyone. Values such as quality, safety, customized and innovative solutions are at the core. As a service-oriented partner, the group is committed to ensuring that these aspects match the highest expectations. “Finally, the website should provide the answer if our technology fits the customers world,” says Robert Reimann, CEO at Jakob Müller Group. Underpinning the whole story are solid principles of trust, experience, the famed Swiss precision and social and environmental responsibility. Together they make Jakob Müller the ideal partner, sure to prove its long-term worth and make a significant contribution to customers’ market success. “We would like to invite individuals to explore our website and find out why Jakob Müller could be the ideal partner for them,” says Reimann. 

EFI Reggiani BOLT has reached an important milestone 50 million meters printed around the world At up to 90 meters per minute and with superior uptime, EFI Reggiani BOLT is recognized in the textile industry as a breakthrough solution for high production volumes of digitally printed fabric. Recently, EFI Reggiani BOLT has exceeded 50 million meters printed around the world and is running far beyond thanks to its unparalleled speed! We would like to thank our customers for their trust and their investment in cutting-edge technologies to significantly increase their production capacity, reduce inventory and time to market with a competitive total cost of ownership. Thanks to their work they show the world how efficient and profitable digital can be using the new breakthroughs the EFI Reggiani BOLT provides.

U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol Announces Levi Strauss & Co and Their Legacy brands as new members The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol welcomes new members Levi Strauss & Co, one of the most recognizable denim companies worldwide, and their legacy brands Levi’s®, Dockers®, Denizen® by Levi’s®, and Signature by Levi Strauss & Co.™

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More than 90 percent of Levi Strauss & Co’s products are cotton-based. The company has committed to sourcing 100 percent more sustainably grown cotton focusing on decreasing water use, cutting carbon emissions, and reducing fertilizer and pesticide use. This corporate

commitment to more sustainable and resilient cotton sourcing is part of a broader internal initiative designed to move the company toward a more sustainable and circular product strategy. “At Levi Strauss & Co., the quality and sustainability of the cotton we use is

Features critical to our business and important to our customers,” said Jeffrey Hogue, Chief Sustainability Officer, Levi Strauss & Co. “Membership in the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol will be an important step and a key partnership in our efforts to source 100 percent more sustainably grown cotton.” The Trust Protocol will aid Levi Strauss & Co.’s efforts by providing verified data on sustainability practices from U.S. cotton growers and access to aggregate year-over-year data on critical metrics including water use, greenhouse gas emissions, energy use, soil carbon, soil loss and land use efficiency. Levi Strauss & Co will also participate in the pilot phase of the Protocol Credit Management System which provides its members with complete supply chain transparency through use of TextileGenesis’ blockchain technology. “Levi Strauss & Co. is a globally recognized and respected brand and we are proud to welcome them as members,” said Dr. Gary Adams, president of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol. “During the past 35 years, the U.S. cotton industry has made significant progress in reducing our environmental impact and the Trust Protocol is aligned with the 2025 national goals to further those improvements. As a member, Levi Strauss & Co. will receive farm level data which will help them progress their sustainability efforts and achieve their cotton sourcing goals.” The Trust Protocol has welcomed more than 450 brand, retailer, mill and

manufacturer members since its launch in 2020. This includes Gap Inc. and its collection of purpose-led lifestyle brands Old Navy, Gap, Banana Republic and Athleta as well as global apparel manufacturer Gildan. The Trust Protocol has also welcomed UK retailers Tesco, Byford and Next Plc. Other Trust Protocol member announcements include the first 10 U.S. mills to join and the first members in Latin America. The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is aligned with the UN Sustainable Development Goals, recognized by Textile Exchange and Forum for the Future, and part of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Cotton 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge, Cotton 2040 and Cotton Up initiatives.

About the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol In a period of ever-greater supply chain scrutiny and a growing demand for transparency, the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol will set a standard for more sustainably grown cotton. It brings quantifiable and verifiable goals and measurement to the issue of responsiblygrown cotton production and drives continuous improvement in key sustainability metrics. The Trust Protocol underpins and verifies U.S. cotton’s progress through sophisticated data collection and independent third-party verification. Choosing Trust Protocol cotton will give brands and retailers the critical assurances they need that the cotton fiber element of their supply chain is more sustainably

grown with lower environmental and social risk. Brands and retailers will gain access to U.S. cotton with sustainability credentials proven via Field to Market, measured via the Fieldprint Calculator and verified with Control Union Certifications. The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is overseen by a multi-stakeholder Board of Directors comprised of representatives from brands and retailers, civil society and independent sustainability experts as well as the cotton-growing industry, including growers, ginners, merchants, wholesalers and cooperatives, mills and cottonseed handlers.

About Levi Strauss & Co. Levi Strauss & Co. is one of the world's largest brand-name apparel companies and a global leader in jeanswear. The company designs and markets jeans, casual wear and related accessories for men, women and children under the Levi's® , Dockers® , Signature by Levi Strauss & Co.™, and Denizen® brands. Its products are sold in more than 110 countries worldwide through a combination of chain retailers, department stores, online sites, and a global footprint of approximately 3,100 retail stores and shop-in-shops. Levi Strauss & Co.'s reported 2020 net revenues were $4.5 billion.

Features The latest Svegea collarette band cutting machines in operation at Triteks Trejd in Prilep, North Macedonia.

Swedish automation boosts Tritex sewing operations Founded in 1952, Svegea of Sweden – a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association – has over 60 years of experience in exclusively designing, manufacturing and installing the highest quality collarette band cutting machines worldwide. These are used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as waistbands, cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements. Much has changed, of course, since the company’s formation, when its

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earliest technologies had operational speeds of around 360 metres per hour. Today, Svegea’s most productive collarette machine has an output of 20,000 metres per hour. Garment manufacturing was also still a dominant industry across Europe in the first decades of Svegea’s existence, largely enabled by such automatic machine production. Inevitably, however, labour costs, especially for sewing machinists, became too high in many countries in Europe. As a result, companies began moving their operations, first to nearby lowerwage countries and then inevitably to Asia and the Far East, which is the main

destination for Svegea’s collarette machines for knitwear today. At the same time, the company’s expertise has been increasingly turned to the development of bespoke machines for the production of special technical textiles and tailor-made units for specific niche applications.

Resilience The recent Covid-19 situation is now leading to the reshoring of certain niche textile production operations in Europe – most notably in face masks and medical gowns, but also fast fashion items – following the realisation that total dependence on overseas suppliers with long lead times is unwise.

Features From the early 1990s until just recently, however, only the most resilient garment manufacturing companies with highly-automated processes and strong brands retained production in Europe. This makes Svegea customer Triteks Trejd somewhat unique. Founded in 1994, this family-owned business employs over 280 people at its plant in Prilep, North Macedonia, where high quality cotton fabrics are expertly converted into the products of the Tritex Underwear brand. The Prilep operation encompasses the processing of fabrics, design, cutting, sewing, quality control and packing in a fully integrated workflow. “We constantly monitor market and fashion trends, and our team of designers creates collections that meet the needs of the most demanding consumers,” says Plant Manager Dejan Naumoski. “Our high quality cotton fabrics are chosen through a stringent selection process and we work to the relevant ISO 9001 standards.” With around 200 sewing machinists, the Tritex product range encompasses briefs, boxers, slips, t-shirts, pyjamas and body slips which are primarily sold to countries within the European Union, as well as the domestic market. The company has also just completed the digitalisation of its full production via the in-house DPC-SYS system, installing

around 200 industrial PCs linking each of its workstations and departments.

E-commerce “This was a nice challenge, and we now have all data in real time across all of our operations,” says Dejan. “Of course, we also make the most of the benefits that our country has to offer,” “The business climate here is relatively stable, there are qualified and productive workers, the textile industry is highly flexible to the market’s needs, and the country’s proximity to EU countries, as well as well-developed transport and logistics, are certainly a big plus. We also have a very efficient e-commerce operation which is essential in today’s marketplace.” Triteks Trejd currently operates three of the latest Svegea collarette cutting machines and is highly satisfied with their performance, as well as the service provided by the Swedish company. “In recent years, Triteks Trejd has replaced its original Svegea collarette machines with our latest highly-automatic units with True-Drive control systems,” says Svegea Managing Director Hakan Steene. “They are also equipped with Dust Phantom units to ensure an optimum working environment through the efficient removal of dust and lint. Festooning of the trim from the machines directly into boxes, rather than winding them onto rolls, also ensures less breaks

in production for the sewing machinists, with less stretch from the endless material produced.” “The latest machines are simple to operate, and we are very impressed with their precision, as well as with the waste reduction that is achieved through their use,” adds Dejan. “Any problems that may occur are rare and easily solvable and so far, service has been online via viber or mail, and it’s always fast and helpful.” For TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson, the relationship between Triteks Trejd and Svegea is a good example of how Swedish textile machinery manufacturers are contributing to production in Europe. “With a high level of automation and expertise in many areas of technology, TMAS members support the competitive edge of the European textile industry,” she says. “Today, business is about much more than just supplying machines or technologies. As suppliers our members understand and are prepared to integrate with the procurement, administration and production and stock handling operations in order to create complete, intelligent systems. This means working closely with customers and supplying a constant flow of ideas on efficiency, quality improvements, reduced waste and adapting for automation.”

Triteks Trejd employs 200 sewing machinists at its Prilep plant.

Features

Sateri to Expand Lyocell Production in China Sateri, the world’s largest producer of viscose fibre, is planning to expand its Lyocell production in China, with total planned annual capacity of up to 500,000 tonnes by 2025. The first phase of this expansion kicked off recently with ground breaking works for a new 100,000 tonne facility in Changzhou, Jiangsu province. Another 100,000 tonne facility will be built in Nantong, Jiangsu province later this year. The Changzhou Lyocell facility is expected to commence production in the third quarter of 2022 and will create more than 800 jobs. Sateri’s first foray into China’s Lyocell market was in May 2020 when its 20,000 tonne Lyocell production line in Rizhao, Shandong province commenced production. The same site houses a 5,000 tonne Lyocell pilot production line dedicated for the development of Lyocell application technology. Allen Zhang, President of Sateri, said, “Sateri’s continued investment in Lyocell not only responds to the changing needs of the market and the textile industry but also supports China’s green development plans. It is also very much a part of Sateri’s 2030 Vision commitment to sus-

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tainable development where we actively seek to adopt a circular economy model through clean and closed-loop production technology and Allen Zhang, President innovation.” Sateri.

A natural and biodegradable fibre, Sateri’s Lyocell is made from wood pulp sourced from certified and sustainable plantations. It is manufactured using closed-loop technology, requiring minimal chemical input during the production process, and utilising an organic solvent that can be almost fully recovered and recycled. In anticipation of strong demand for Lyocell in the coming years, Tom Liu, Sateri’s Vice President and General Manager of Lyocell and Nonwovens Business, said: “Customer-centricity is Sateri’s promise. The new expansion plans will enable us to extend our domestic and international market reach and provide our customers with Tom Liu, Vice President high quality and Sarteri.

comprehensive fibre products. At the same time, we will invest in technology improvement, application development, and brand collaboration to bolster the industry.” Sateri is the world’s largest producer of viscose fibre, a natural and sustainable raw material found in everyday items like textiles, baby wipes and personal hygiene products. Their range of high quality viscose products is independently verified as safe and responsibly produced. Sarteri’s five mills in China collectively produce about 1.5 million tonnes of viscose fibre yearly. They also produce textile yarn, spunlace non-woven fabric and Lyocell fibre. Headquartered in Shanghai, there is a strong sales, marketing and customer service network covering Asia, Europe and the Americas. Sateri is committed to the fundamental principles of sustainable development; our business practices are underpinned by strict adherence to our Sustainability Policy, Pulp Sourcing Policy and universally accepted environmental and social standards. For more information please contact Nauman_Ilyas@asiafibre.com.

The new cradle feeder 100 can be equipped with an automatic cut-off feature. The cut-off is activated at the end of a marker, while the cutter is still busy cutting. This means rolls of material can be changed and made ready for the next job even while production is still running.

Automation made smarter — Zünd launches Cradle Feeder 100

Having undergone further development, the new cradle feeder 100 now offers even more functions and is smarter than ever. The cradle feeder 100 comes with an integrated cut-off system, intelligent controls, and smart roll-off features that take textile cutting to new levels of productivity and automation.

touchscreen as well as the ability to operate the cradle feeder

Just like its highly successful predecessor, which was introduced in 2017, the cradle feeder 100 is capable of advancing stretch fabrics from rolls completely without tension and resulting distortions. The integrated unwind-control system continuously monitors the rate in which the material is fed onto the cutter and manages that process with even greater precision than the previous model.

automatically regulates the feed speed. In addition, the

At the heart of the technological advances that come with new feeder is the optional integrated cut-off feature. It slices through the material at the end of a marker even while the cutter is still busy cutting. This makes it possible to switch rolls and prepare for the next job without interrupting the production process. Especially for users who frequently need to process short markers, this translates into significant time-savings in job preparation and setup. The cut-off function can be initiated manually by the user or set to occur automatically in the cutter software.

function creates a tightly wound roll for easy storage.

The control panel has also undergone further development, both ergonomically and technologically. This includes a larger

widths of 1800, 2270, and 3210 mm / 70, 89, and 126 in).

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from either side. In addition, it is now possible to pre-set, save, and manage parameters for different textiles. For more ergonomic loading, one side of the cradle feeder 100 can be lowered. A dancer roller continuously registers fluctuations in web tension. If necessary, the cradle feeder movement is synchronized with the cutter, which further minimizes material stretch and distortions. The cradle feeder not only unwinds material from rolls, it can also rewind them. When a job is done, this feature is used to easily rewind uncut fabric back onto the roll. The rewind As was the case with the previous version, the cradle feeder 100 can accommodate fabric rolls of up to 100 kg/220 lbs if fed from the cradle. The cradle now contains more than twice as many belts for optimal feed performance. For even greater flexibility, e.g. with static-prone and particularly clingy materials, the cradle feeder can be equipped with an optional cored roll-off unit. The cradle feeder 100 is available immediately for Zünd cutter series S3, G3, and D3 (in independent distribution and service partners.

Features

Living in the world of sustainability Marmara Original® Hemp by iTextiles® With increased awareness of sustainability, there comes a definite chance of people adopting the durable lifestyle in today's era. Natural and organic fibers are becoming more popular these days due to ethical responsibility and prudence. Hemp fiber is considered to be one of the finest and oldest cultivated ecofriendly fibers, among others. It goes back more than 8,000 years, in Europe, where it all started. Europe now produces more than 35,000 hectares of this valuable fiber, making it quite possibly the most vital production area on this planet. Hemp fiber is widely accepted worldwide because of its biodegradability and low density compared with artificial fibers. Scrupulous hemp textiles are known to be very durable, breathable, and have solid thermal characteristics, as well as hypo-allergic and mildew resistance to offer. Bearing antimicrobial properties, it is considered to be an adequate fiber to fight against bacteria in fabrics and garments. Its softness and easy handling make it both simple to work with and very comfortable. Cottonized hemp fiber is just about as delicate as cotton while holding hemp's positive attributes and is ideal for blending with numerous fibers. It can easily be spun on cotton spinning machines. Hemp has more than 50,000 industrial uses and makes various commercial and industrial products, including rope, textiles, clothing, shoes, food, paper, bio-

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

plastics, insulation, and biofuel. The leading use of hemp fabric is apparel. Examples of sustainable garments commonly made with hemp include denim and non-denim, dresses, skirts, pants, jackets, T-shirts, hoodies, and other textile garments. Most cotton garments start to warp, shrink, or fall apart after a few washes, but hemp fabrics retain their shape and fit for years and years, even after several washes. Hemp materials are versatile and longer-enduring than cotton. Being eight times stronger than cotton, it is more durable and softens with age with every wash. Keeping in mind the benefits hemp fiber is offering, iTextiles® is now competing in sourcing the finest cultivated French hemp, MARMARA ORIGINAL®, across the regions. The MARMARA ORIGINAL® hemp fiber, provided by iTextiles®, is one of the most eco-friendly fibers in the world. iTextiles® has a firm belief in sustaining the textile industry and offering the most durable products to its consumers and thus presenting such fiber that does not require pesticides and any chemical treatments or irrigation. It

absorbs toxic material from the soil, produces oxygen, and helps in mineralizing the land more. Like linen and cotton, MARMARA ORIGINAL® is an excellent choice for summer with its UV-resistant qualities. The consistent improved quality and availability of MARMARA ORIGINAL® are guaranteed throughout the year.

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Dyes and Chemicals

ARCHROMA releases its 2020 sustainability report Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, announced the release of its Sustainability Report for its fiscal year 2020. Prepared again in accordance with the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) standards, and building on a strong track record, the report outlines the company’s progress on its priority sustainability topics, such as human health and environmental safety, resource efficiency, sustainable sourcing and product stewardship, as well as diversity & inclusion, and talent management.

industries we serve, safe and sustainable”, Heike van de Kerkhof, CEO of Archroma, comments.

About Archroma Archroma is a global, diversified provider of specialty chemicals serving the branded and performance textiles, packaging and paper, and coatings, adhesives and sealants markets. Headquartered in Reinach, Switzerland, Archroma operates in over 100 countries, with 3,000 employees

located in 35 countries and 26 production sites. Archroma is passionate about delivering leading and innovative solutions, enhancing people’s lives and respecting the planet. The company is committed to the principles of "The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, Efficient, Enhanced. It's our nature!"; an approach reflected in its innovations, world-class quality standards, high service levels and costefficiency. 

Also, for the first time ever, Archroma conducted a survey with its stakeholders to confirm the relevance of the sustainability topics covered in the report. These include biodiversity, occupational and product safety, and fair labor practices, as well as maybe less expected topics such as compliance, economic performance, and culture. The report covers these topics and more. In particular, as the world continues to navigate through the COVID-19 pandemic, Archroma continues to contribute to fighting the virus in many different ways, with its solid foundation as a leader in sustainable, R&D-enabled chemistry and expertise needed in times like these. At the same time, pushing on the sustainability agenda remains as critical as ever. All activities described in the report therefore support the three pillars of “The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced. It’s our nature.” This approach is the company’s guiding light in challenging the status quo to making its operations and its value chains sustainable. “The pandemic has opened the eyes of people around the world who count on us to develop safe, high quality and durable products that help preserve our planet. In this context, we, as industry leaders, must continue to push our agenda to make our industry, and the

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

Archroma releases its 2020 sustainability report.

Weaving

Textile weaving sector: Current challenges and opportunities by Prof. Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education.

The performance of the textile industry during the period 2019-20 remained under pressure due to Covid-19. On the other hand, competition is on the rise in the global apparel and textile markets. Countries like Vietnam, Cambodia and Sri Lanka are vying to get a bigger share of the global textile pie. At present textile industry contributes about 57% to the total export earnings of the country, accounts for 46% of the total manufacturing and provides employment to 40% of the manufacturing labour force. The availability of basic raw material for textile industry, cotton, has played a principal role in the growth of the industry. Pakistan is the 4th largest producer and 3rd largest consumer of cotton. Pakistan offers various kinds of fabrics which include the famous greige fabrics as well. Cotton greige fabric is an important intermediate product that is

used to make many different types of textiles. The spinning sector has grown with export demand and cotton production. The weaving and processing sectors have followed. Air-Jet weaving units have been set up either as independent units or together with spinning or processing units. Some of the clothing units are in process of backward integration while on other hand, spinning units are in the process of developing weaving, finishing and making-up facilities to complete the chain. However, both textile and clothing sectors are complementing each other and are horizontally or vertically integrated either under the same management. The weaving sector is comprised of two types of setups. One is the organised mill sector and the other is the unorganised non-mill sector. Major known power loom clusters are in Faisalabad, Gujranwala, Gujrat, Multan, Karachi, Kasur and Jhang. However, Faisalabad is the biggest cluster in

Pakistan. There are a substantial number of small units in this sector, which have 50 to 100 looms in single premises as one unit. The organized sector seemingly made a shift towards cotton spinning rather than make efforts to develop and modernize the weaving sector.

Import of machinery At present Pakistan's textile sector has made considerable advances in production capacity and capability during last few years. A remarkable progress of the power looms sector was seen and setting up of shuttle-less machines has resulted in high growth in fabric production and later on processing. At present, the shuttle-less weaving sector is believed to be the largest consumer of cotton yarn in Pakistan. The imports of shuttleless looms have shown a consistent growth over the last ten years. From 2011 to 2020 approximately 30,000 modern shuttleless looms were imported most of them from

Weaving Europe and Japan. The total value of imported looms in ten years is US$ 619 million.

Production of cloth The performance of textile industry during the period 2019-20 remained under pressure due to Covid-19. The total production of cloth (Mill and Nonmill sectors) decreased from 9.17 billion square meters in 2018-19 to 9.11 billion square meters in 2019-20.

value as US$13.4 billion, which is 58% of the country’s total exports during 2019-20.

Table 1: Import of Shuttleless Looms Quantity: Numbers Value: Million PKR and US$

Year

Qty

Value

(million PKR)

(million US$)

The export 2010-11 2,757 5,831 68.15 of cotton fabrics 2011-12 1,341 2,128 23.84 from Pakistan 2012-13 1,461 3,331 34.39 decreased from 2013-14 4,423 8,091 78.65 2.88 billion 2014-15 4,041 6,276 61.86 square metres 2015-16 3,867 7,891 75.61 worth US$ 2.10 However, non-mill loom sector 2016-17 3,451 10,935 104.34 billion in 2018accounts more than 89% of the total 19 to 1.33 2017-18 3,026 7,203 65.5 fabric production. As a result, the nonbillion square 2018-19 2,957 9,028 66.25 mill sector weaving capacity continues to metres worth occupy the predominant position. The 2019-20 2,835 6,446 40.73 the US $ 1.83 growth of shuttle-less weaving machines Total 30,159 67,160 619.31 billion in 2019capacity in this sector has resulted in high 20, due to Source: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics growth in fabric production. decline average State of Bank of Pakistan The shuttle-less weaving is believed unit price in the to be the largest consumer of cotton yarn international domestic cotton output in 2020 and a in Pakistan. The non-mill weaving sector, markets from US$ 1.25 in 2014-15 to sharp rebound in its local and global although quite large, contributes to the US$ 0.79 per sq. metre in 2019-20, thus prices have brought to the fore the exports by way of the production of lowshowing a decline of 37% in terms of hidden tussle between different segments quality sheeting fabrics. Production of value. The export of cotton fabrics from of Pakistan’s textile value chain, Pakistan are given in Table 3. weaving cloth is given in Table 2. underlining an urgent need for a policy Major markets for balance for protecting the interests of all Pakistan's cotton fabrics are players including small to medium-sized Table 2: Production of Weaving Cloth (Million Sq. Mtrs.) Bangladesh, China, Italy, apparel manufacturers to boost exports. Turkey, Germany, USA, and Mill Non Pakistan’s cotton output during the Year Total the Sri Lanka. The countrySector Mill Sector current crop year fell to 5.64 million bales 2015-16 1,039 8,120 9,159 wise exports of cotton from 10.76 million bales last year, the fabrics are given in Table 4. 2016-17 1,043 8,126 9,170 lowest in three decades. Imports of 2017-18 1,044 8,127 9,171 Challenges cotton continue to meet the country’s 2018-19 1,046 8,129 9,175 requirement of about 15 million bales. The textile industry 2019-20 1,040 8,075 9,115 faces pressure from factors The massive decline in cotton output has including high energy created serious problems for the textile Source: Textile Commissioner Organisation, Government of Pakistan. prices, pending refunds and industry. tough competition from With an in-depth investigation it was India, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Thailand and Exports found that the Pakistan’s textile industry others in the foreign market. The can once again be brought back on The global textiles and clothing trade depreciation of has increased substantially since the post Pakistani rupee Table 3: Exports of Cotton Fabrics. quota regime. However, Pakistan’s share that significantly in the global textiles and clothing trade raised the cost Quantity Value Unit Price has remained stagnant due to changes in of imported Year the distribution chain and also uneven inputs, rise in (Million Sq. Mtr) (US$ Million) ($/ Sq. Mtr) playing field by the importing countries, inflation rate through preferential trade agreements and high cost of 2015-16 2,106 2,214 1.05 and special access provided to different financing has 2016-17 2,049 2,136 1.04 competitor countries. also effected 2017-18 2,250 2,204 0.98 Pakistan has emerged as one of the seriously the major cotton textile product suppliers in 2018-19 2,877 2,102 0.74 growth in the the world market, with a share of world textile industry. 2019-20 1,328 1,830 0.79 yarn trade of about 30% and cotton The nearly Source: Trade Development Authority of Pakistan. fabric about 8%, having total export 50% decline in

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

Weaving

Table 4: Country-wise Export of Cotton Fabrics Value: US$ 000 Country

2019-20

2018-19

2017-18

Bangladesh

430,747

482,481

479,254

Turkey

101,165

125,511

162,608

Italy

123,294

144,842

163,869

Portugal

81,245

78,567

86,869

Netherlands

67,788

75,488

69,860

China

73,783

89,744

122,449

Mexico

75,277

34,665

35,346

Belgium

57,582

43,897

58,936

winning track if government takes serious action with regard to the aforementioned hurdles. Purchasing new machinery or enhancing the quality of the existing machinery and introducing new technology can also be very useful in increasing the research and development related activities that in the modern era are very important for increasing the industrial growth of a country.

Spain

71,420

82,296

85,955

References

U.S. America

136,224

112,414

90,042



1,693,677

1,989,399

2,113,545

All others Total

1,829,901

2,101,813

Source: Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.

2,203,587

Textile commissioner Organization, Government of Pakistan.



Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.



Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.



State Bank of Pakistan.

The seventh ITMA ASIA + CITME to open in Shanghai with 1237 exhibitors The seventh ITMA ASIA + CITME 2020 exhibition shall open on June 12 in Shanghai with the largest showcase of the latest textile machinery since the outbreak of the coronavirus pandemic last year.

Following an eight-month postponement, the combined exhibition grossing 160,000 square-metre will bring together 1,237 textile machinery manufacturers from 20 countries and regions, and their buyers for face-to-face interaction. Against the odds, the combined show only contracted by 10% in gross exhibition space. The better-than-expected per-

formance of ITMA Asia + CITME 2020 attests to China being an attractive textile machinery market. As 2021 marks the first year of China's 14th Five-Year Plan, it has ushered in fresh development opportunities for the local textile industry, according to the show owners. The combined show is owned by CEMATEX (European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers), the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex), China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) and China Exhibition Centre Group Corporation (CIEC). Mr. Ernesto Maurer, president of CEMATEX, explained, “We are extremely pleased to be able to stage Asia's largest textile machinery exhibition during this challenging period, thanks to the strong performance of the China's textile industry, and the support of our exhibitors and partners. This edition of ITMA Asia + CITME has further sealed the combined exhibition's reputation as the leadingedge business platform in Asia for textile machinery.”

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

Mr. Wang Shutian, Honorary President of China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA), added: “Each edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME sees strong textile industry turnout. As an industry platform, it has been instrumental in facilitating the industrial upgrading of the textile industry in China and Asia. It is especially crucial now as the physical show allows companies to reconnect face-to-face again. Such meetings held in person are critical for building business relationships in the longer term and we are pleased to enable our participants the opportunity to do so in this exhibition."

Key highlights The largest contingent of exhibitors at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2020 comes from China, which has over 1,000 participants occupying over 56,000 square metres of net exhibit space. Some major exhibitors include CHTC, Fong's, Ningbo Cixing, Wuxi Hongyuan, Hangzhou Honghua, Jiangsu Yingyou Textile Machinery and Changshu Textile Machinery. A total of 170 exhibitors from CEMATEX territories are taking part in the exhibition. They occupy over 9,200 square metres, amounting to 13 per cent of the net space. Two of the largest national groups are Germany and Italy. Fifty-seven German exhibitors occupy over 3,700 square metres while 63 Italian exhibitors take up over 2,500 square metres.

They include Automatex Solution, Fil Control, Groz-Beckert, Itema, Jeanologia, Karl Mayer, MS Printing Solutions, Meech International, Muratec, Oerlikon Barmag, Picanol, Efi-Reggiani Macchine, Rieter, Santoni, Saurer, Savio, Shima Seiki, Staubli, Toyota, Tsudakoma, Vandewiele and Vanwyk. In term of product categories, similar to previous editions, spinning remains the largest sector, occupying 25 per cent of the total exhibit space. The finishing sector forms the next biggest group at 24 per cent, followed by knitting (13 per cent), weaving (12 per cent) and printing (8 per cent).

Research and Innovation Zone Another area showcasing industry innovation is the Research and Innovation Zone. The zone features 11 local universities and colleges. Among the participants are Donghua University, Jiangnan University, Qingdao University, Tianjin University of Technology, Wuhan Textile University,

Xi'an University of Technology, Zhejiang University of Technology and other institutions. Prior to the exhibition, extensive promotions via online and offline channels had been undertaken to ensure a strong visitor turnout. The organisers are expecting more than 400 local textile and garment manufacturer associations and their members to visit the exhibition. The exhibition also has the support of more than 100 media partners, including Pakistan Textile Journal from around the world. Onsite, the organisers are implementing various measures to protect participants' health and safety. These measures include mandatory temperature checking and strict badge verification with facial recognition at hall entry gantries. Visitors are also advised to observe social distancing. ITMA ASIA + CITME is organised by Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co Ltd and co-organised by ITMA Services. 

The next largest group of exhibitors come from Japan, taking up more than 2,200 square metres of net space. The Japanese participation is coordinated by the Japan Textile Machinery Association a strategic partner of the combined show. Although international participation has been greatly reduced due to travel restrictions, ITMA ASIA + CITME 2020 still features leading brand names from Europe and Japan.

Italian companies at ITMA ASIA + CITME 66 Italian textile machinery manufacturers will participate in the upcoming ITMA ASIA + CITME 2020, which will take place in Shanghai at the National Exhibition and Convention Center from June 12 to 16, 2021. Of these, 21 manufacturers will be presenting their technology offerings within National Sector Groups organized by ACIMIT, the Italian Association of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, and the Italian Trade Agency. With an occupied area of about 3,200 square meters, Italy is among the main exhibiting countries attending the event, as it has been the case in the previous editions. ITMA ASIA + CITME is, then, a first step towards normality for many companies in the sector, after more than a year in which even the exhibition activity has stopped. Asia represents the main destination for Italian textile machinery manufacturers. In 2020, almost 38% of Italian textile machines exports went to Asia. China is an absolutely important market for Italian companies: the first in Asia and the second worldwide behind only Turkey. In 2020 Italian machinery exports to China accounted for 14% of Italian exports in the sector (over 190 million euros). The main destinations in the area also include Pakistan, India and Bangladesh.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

"The outlook for the Asian market remains positive, despite the fact that demand for machinery slowed considerably during 2020 due to the pandemic, says ACIMIT President Alessandro Zucchi. China, before many other Countries, has resumed its path of economic growth. In the textile sector, investments have never stopped. On the Chinese market, therefore, there is no lack of opportunities and I believe that ITMA ASIA + CITME will confirm expectations of a recovery in demand". Unfortunately, the health emergency still causes limitations for the full mobility abroad of the companies’ staff, both commercial and technical, and not only the Italian ones, thus preventing a greater participation in this edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME. Zucchi concludes: "Waiting for a return to a situation of normality with a more numerous collective attendance at the trade fairs, I am convinced that the Italian manufacturers exhibiting in Shanghai will be able to testify to the high level of innovation achieved by the Made in Italy offer, proposing some technological innovations, especially in terms of sustainability and digitalization of the textile production process." Mr. Massimiliano Tremiterra, Trade Commissioner of Italian Trade Agency Shanghai Office, commented that Italian cutting-edge technology can contribute greatly in terms of innovation and development of the flourishing Chinese

textile industry. In Eastern China, there are the top three Provinces for textile and garment industry: Zhejiang, Jiangsu, and Fujian, that along with the Provinces Guangdong and Shandong reach around 80% of the industry’s production capability. Italy remains one of the leading suppliers of textile machinery in China: for cleaning, dyeing and finishing machines, knitting, stitch-bond, lace and auxiliary machinery. With its high-tech and eco-friendly manufacturers, Italy is one of the most important players in the textile machinery industry. The Italian textile machinery industry focus on sustainability and innovation, in line with the keystones of the Chinese 14th five-years plan and the Made in China 2025 plan. This is also the reason why China has become an even more important market for Italian exports. It is the right time for the two countries to start a new round of trade and speed up the joint construction of the Silk Road Economic Belt and the 21st Century Maritime Silk Road. ACIMIT represents an industrial sector that comprises roughly 300 manufacturers (employing around 12,900 people), which produce machinery for an overall worth of around 1.8 billion euros (including laundry machines), of which 83% are exported. Creativity, sustainable technology, reliability and quality are the hallmarks that have made Italian textile machinery worldwide leaders.

Savio displays solutions-oriented portfolio to maximize machinery return on investment Savio will be attending “ITMA ASIA+CITME 2020” exhibition, taking place in Shanghai/China, from 12 to 16 June 2021. It is very important to be back to physical events in the biggest textile market like China and meet in person our customers again. Savio is soon exhibiting in Shanghai solutions-oriented portfolio to maximize machinery return on investment, both machinery and for technical service. Savio will have on display at ITMA ASIA the winding solutions especially designed for processing cotton/spandex, Modal and Lyocell yarns. Savio offers numerous machinery solutions to support the quality of the final yarn product: winding, winding for continuous shrinkage, bulking and heat setting; TFO twisting; Open-End rotor spinning. Another main exhibit is the “Savio 4.0” digital solutions for data exchange in manufacturing technologies. The new

possibilities offered by the connection of the machines translates into the different levels of Savio Industrial IoT, with the possibility of progressive sophistication. Different option levels, each corresponding to a different dose of Industry 4.0 applied to Savio textile winding machinery, from simple connectivity and machinery data downloading, to remote machine setup, to operator real-time interactivity. Automation and digital solutions have been two big drives for Savio in the last few years. The requirement for integrated automation in the spinning process is increasing, because of the yarn quality and productivity advantages that such a solution offers. This integrated automation drive has led Savio to offer customers new bespoke solutions, to increase flexibility to/fro winder. The latest automated solution from Savio is the Multi-Link, which connects multiple ring spinning frames (RSF) to one Savio winder, becoming a tailormade circuit to link up to four RSFs to

one winding machine. This solution optimizes space, reduces energy consumption and production costs. This automatic bobbin transport shortens servicing paths for the operators and allows an ergonomic material flow. The costs for production, space and energy are reduced while keeping the quality consistent even with long and multiconnected machines. Savio After-Sales service has also a new and innovative Augmented Reality tool to fast troubleshoot, improve processes and increase machine utilization time. Due to the current travel restrictions, in order to ensure machinery effectiveness, Savio is offering remote assistance powered by TeamViewer Pilot, an application that allows interaction in augmented reality. Thanks to this application, Savio experts from their Italian headquarters can support field technicians at the customer site, in real time, through video sessions for faster troubleshooting. 

Boris Abedjief

Although affected by the Covid-19 pandemic, ITMA ASIA + CITME, which takes place mid-June in Shanghai, will see a convincing participation of VDMA member companies. 56 exhibitors from Germany will exhibit at this year’s edition of Asia’s major fair for textile machinery. Due to the pandemic and travel restrictions, this is much less than in 2018, when 99 exhibitors from Germany were present. The booked space of German companies has almost halved compared to 2018. Nevertheless, Germany is still the second largest exhibitor nation after China. At a virtual VDMA press conference renowned VDMA member companies presented their highlights for the Asian market.

Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division André Wissenberg, Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division explained: “Oerlikon accompanies its customers and all visitors to the show with attractive offers in the field of manmade fibers production. One André Wissenberg of the highlights will be the next generation of the DTY eAFK Evo with up to 25% energy saving and up to 30% higher production speed, easy maintenance and best yarn quality”.

Jörg Neyer said: “Referring to the higher quality standards and the increasing personnel costs in the spinning Jörg Neye and weaving mills, the Neuenhauser Textile Division is moving forward to Industry 4.0. At ITMA ASIA 2021 we present our famous products such as travelling cleaners, warp beams, batch winders, transport vehicles, transport automation and grinding machines as well as the latest generation of automotive guided vehicles (AGV) for round cans, square cans and batch transport.”

Truetzschler Group

Saurer

“TheTruetzschler Group will present a selection of exciting innovations from its business units Spinning, Card Clothing, Man-Made Harald Schoepp Fibers and Nonwovens. The newly launched products will establish new benchmarks in terms of productivity, quality and efficiency,” said Harald Schoepp, Trützschler.

More and more Asian customers are interested in automation solutions. Saurer is addressing this trend in Shanghai: Pia Terasa “Automation innovations within single machines and extending across entire textile mills: Saurer is meeting the growing demand for cost-effective automation both in spinning and twisting/cabling mills. The well-known E3 attributes of the Saurer design philosophy – energy, economy and ergonomics – are enhanced with intelligent technologies, which address pressing issues related to

Neuenhauser A focus of the company Neuenhauser at ITMA ASIA will be on Industry 4.0, as

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

labour and ergonomics. From intelligent speed regulation in spinning machinery, to automated doffing, can or package transport and finally palletising, the company offers customised solutions for intelligent automation”, stated Pia Terasa from Saurer.

Karl Mayer Group Christine Wolters explained what visitors to ITMA ASIA + CITME can expect from Karl Mayer: Christine Wolters “With its three strong brands, KARL MAYER, STOLL and KM.ON, the international KARL MAYER Group will be presenting innovative solutions from the fields of warp knitting, flat knitting, weaving, warp preparation and digital offerings. It once again presents itself as a pioneer in the development of digital solutions for all its machine segments and services, including a dashboard for remote access to data from networked machines and a product for highly flexible, simple patterning through data transfer directly from the cloud. And under the motto "Innovating the world of textiles", textile solutions with important product attributes of our time – smart, casual and environmentally friendly – are offered.”

Groz-Beckert Groz-Beckert stated: “During ITMA ASIA + CITME, Groz-Beckert will present new products from all six product areas both physically as exhibits and in extended form via augmented reality. This year the company will not only welcome the guests on-site at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Hall 4, Booth C 31. In addition to the face-to-face event, Groz-Beckert will invite its customers to a virtual booth – for all visitors who cannot travel to the trade fair.”

Lenze According to the company Lenze, digital engineering is the means by which machine builders in the textile Falk Vespermann industry can realize productive, flexible, customerspecific machines with high modularity and short time-to-market. Falk Vespermann explained: "Digitalization offers great potential for higher efficiency and new business models. Those who fully rely on a digital engineering process can profitably use data over the entire life cycle of a machine. We support machine builders from idea generation to concrete implementation. In doing so, we offer standardized software, open interfaces and connectivity to ensure a continuous flow of data." At ITMA ASIA, automation specialist Lenze will be presenting integrated engineering tools and software modules, automation systems and digital services that use the digital twin to

significantly accelerate development processes and, for example, support condition monitoring or asset management and thus improving OEE by reducing unplanned downtime.

Herzog Sebastian Stolle, Herzog while talking about the current challenges,said: “Even in these difficult times with travel restrictions and Sebastian Stolle other economic challenges, HERZOG is there for you to provide you with the latest developments in the field of braiding technologies. For us, the focus is on medical technology, climbing and safety ropes as well as marine and offshore ropes. Our local sales team in China is online supported by our experienced colleagues from Germany.”

Mahlo The measurement and control technology solutions for the textile, coating, extrusion, film and paper industry is the product range of Mahlo. Stephan Kehry pointed out: “Equipped with the best scanner range in the market and with the experience of more than 75 years, Mahlo – Stephan Kehry the inventor of weft straightening – is also leading the way in terms of data management. Making relevant data available wherever it is needed is the overall task of the industry

all around the globe. For many years, this approach has also been defining the pace of the German family business in the 3rd generation.”

Sedo Treepoint Digitization and sustainability are in the focus of textile finishing companies. Andreas Hannes, Sedo Treepoint Andreas Hannes emphasized: “The textile finishing industry requires advanced technology to digitalize the manufacturing process. There is also a growing need and awareness for more sustainable textiles. Sedo Treepoint presents integrated systems, which will further contribute to a more sustainable production and help to improve production management and efficiency.”

Thies Philipp Hinkerohe summarized what customers can expect from Thies: “The family owned, German machine manufacturer Thies GmbH & Co. KG Philipp Hinkerohe is providing the right machinery and auxiliary supply systems for each individual application purpose. Even more, the company serves as a consultant in terms of layout, engineering and automation in order to fulfil the customer needs with regards to Industry 4.0 solutions. In the environment of modern dye houses Thies is the holistic system supplier.”

About VDMA Having around 3,300 members makes the VDMA the largest network organization in the European mechanical engineering industry. The association represents the shared economic, technological and scientific interests of this diverse industry. VDMA Textile Machinery represents around 130 manufacturers of machinery, equipment, components, accessories and software for the production of textile materials - from spinning to the production of textile fabrics and finishing. They represent about 90 percent of the total industry volume. The focus is on representing the economic and technical interests of the industry. The association also offers members a network for the exchange of experience and specialist services on various focal points.

Rieter – Ensuring competitiveness through technology  Ring spinning with G 38 and ROBOspin sets new standards in automation.  COMPACTapron takes yarn strength to new heights.  ESSENTIAL offers new features with smarter insights for better decisions.  ROBOdoff automates doffing to save time and money.  SSM’s new winder NEO-YW delivers more efficiency and sustainability.  Graf’s new cylinder wire and flats enhance lifetime and quality. Rieter has doubled down on its R&D efforts since the onset of the pandemic to accelerate the development of its suite of intelligent and automated machines and systems so customers can manufacture yarns more profitably, efficiently and sustainably. This also empowers mill owners to respond flexibly to fastchanging markets.

COMPACTdrum and COMPACTeasy. COMPACTapron completes Rieter’s family of compacting devices, taking yarn strengths to new heights thanks to its unique 3D technology that guides the fibers smartly through the compacting zone. Novibra’s HPS 22 spindle, which is available for ring and compact spinning, offers the best price performance across all applications with spindle speeds reaching up to 22 000 rpm. It caters to a pressing need on the Chinese and other markets.

ESSENTIAL Offers New Features with Smarter Insights for Better Decisions Rieter’s ESSENTIALmonitor, one of the modules of its all-in-one digital monitoring system, has new features that offer smarter insights into the mill’s operations so owners can fully unlock the mill’s potential.

ROBOdoff Automates Doffing to Save Time and Money Manual doffing is cumbersome, time consuming and costly. Available on the

Ring Spinning with G 38 and ROBOspin Sets New Standards in Automation Rieter’s proven ring spinning machine G 38 with up to 1824 spindles, equipped with the fully electronic drafting system and the industry’s first fully automated piecing robot ROBOspin sets new standards in terms of automation and flexibility. This powerful combination makes it easy to produce standard, special, and compact yarns thanks to the best-in-class compacting devices

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

Rieter’s ring spinning machine G 38 equipped with the industry’s first fully automated piecing robot ROBOspin sets new standards in automation.

ESSENTIAL’s new features offer smart insights into the operation of a spinning mill to fully unlock the mill’s potential.

rotor spinning machine R 37 as an option and on R 35 and R 36 as an upgrade, ROBOdoff automates the changing of packages, replacing full packages with an empty tube that is prepared along each side of the machine so that the spinning process can continue seamlessly. ROBOdoff significantly helps to save time and money.

New Spinning Rotor and CHANNELinsert Boost Production The new rotor 31-XT-BD and the CHANNELinsert 28 can boost rotor yarn production by up to 6% for both knitted and woven applications. It is even possible to use lower quality raw materials while achieving constant production output.

SSM’s New Winder NEO-YW Delivers More Efficiency and Sustainability

ROBOdoff saves time and money by automating the package change on the rotor spinning machine R 37.

The NEO-YW offers clear benefits for dye package winding and rewinding of filament yarns and features the brand-

new online backpressure system for low and high package densities. Together with the firmly established thread laying system fastflex and tension control technology digitens it guarantees the best dyeing results and unwinding properties.

Graf’s New Cylinder Wire and Flats Enhance Lifetime and Quality The latest innovations from Graf include the new card cylinder wire P1940S and the flexible card flat resist-O-top C-60. The cylinder wire delivers consistent sliver quality irrespective of the incoming cotton fibers’ trash content and extends the lifetime by more than 10% thanks to the robust design with increased blade width. In addition, the flexible flat resist-O-top C60 reduces imperfections by up to 15% for fine count yarn spinners. Rieter’s family of components which spans Bräcker, Graf, Novibra, and

Suessen, helps extend service life while enhancing quality and consistency.

virtual booth from anywhere, anytime via www.rieter.com on June 11, 2021.

Technology Competence – Supporting the Industry’s Circularity Journey

About Rieter

With a mere 1% of used garments being recycled and 73% going to landfill, the textile industry faces mounting pressure to become more circular. Rieter is leveraging its expertise to support the industry’s ambitions, with a recent study showing it is possible to spin not only rotor but also ring yarns of varying quality out of recycled clothes on a Rieter system. The semi-automated rotor spinning machine R 37 for example delivers promising yarn qualities thanks to improved waste extraction, closing the loop faster. Visit us at ITMA Asia + CITME 2021 National Exhibition and Convention Center, Shanghai, China, from June 12 to 16 in hall 8 at booth C07. Experience our

Rieter is the world’s leading supplier of systems for short-staple fiber spinning. Based in Winterthur (Switzerland), the company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and manmade fibers and their blends into yarns. Rieter is the only supplier worldwide to cover both spinning preparation processes and all four end spinning processes currently established on the market. Furthermore, Rieter is a leader in the field of precision winding machines. With 15 manufacturing locations in ten countries, the company employs a global workforce of some 4 420, about 21% of whom are based in Switzerland. Rieter is listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange under ticker symbol RIEN. 

Graf’s new card cylinder wire P-1940S in combination with the new flexible flat resist-O-top C-60 enhance lifetime and yarn quality.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

Biancalani presents top textile machinery brand names ITMA ASIA + CITME exhibition will take place in June 2021 and the latest, brand new products and services will be released. As Mr. Ernesto Maurer, President of Cematex explained, “The pandemic might have disrupted the world but exhibitors are eager to resume their marketing efforts.” Biancalani Textile Machinery will be there together with the Santex Rimar Shanghai Agency and its team members.

and money, they allow higher energy savings and sustainability. We know well that good business is nowadays made of all these elements together. But above all, the attention will be focused on the ideal solution to perform continuous washing processes in open width: precisely, AQUARIA®.

“We have some important news here, both improved projects and new ones we’ve been working on for months, trying to make the best out of this unexpected year. The time has come to show those projects and we’re quite thrilled. The always growing Asian market is the one ready for our latest innovations” says Rossano Biancalani. Time has finally come to highlight all the benefits ensured by the latest, brand new, innovative project of AQUARIA®.

For future customers to start thinking about it or envisioning the possible and potential applications of this incredible machinery, let’s start with a list of the wide range of continuous washing processes that are performed thanks to AQUARIA® innovative approach to the mechano-textile world: Enzyme washing, peach skin, relaxation of stretch fabric, desizing, soda treatments, fibrillation and defibrillation (Tencel or Lyocell), biopolishing, weight reduction, bleaching, degumming and many others, all of them taking advantage of the fabric processed in open-width, while ensuring perfect results every time.

As always, Biancalani will present its most effective and advanced machinery. In addition to the benefit of saving time

During ITMA ASIA + CITME 2021, technologists and professionals from Biancalani and Santex Rimar Shanghai

will be ready and glad to answer to various questions. Please visit www.biancalani.com and have a look at data sheets about AQUARIA® and all the other textile machinery by Biancalani, together with the featured articles in the news section, so that you have all the time to envision what your textile business could be like. During ITMA, we’ll find out how we can realize that vision and you’ll get all the useful information about:  AIRO®24, a dryer for continuous and open-width tumbling treatments of woven, nonwoven, and knitted fabrics  AIRBOX, a compact and high-performance, independent or in-line predryer, which can increase the drying capacity of fabrics of any other continuous tumbler up to more than 50%  MILLA and IDRA, two state-of-theart milling and washing machines, with extremely high performance and great productions for all wool fabrics. ITMA ASIA will be held, as always, in Shanghai, China economic powerhouse, at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC, exhibition space of 170,000 square metres). The one huge high-quality event is strongly supported by all nine Cematex European textile machinery associations, CTMA (China Textile Machinery Association) and JTMA (Japan Textile Machinery Association). 

CHTC Fong’s: Innovate for a Smart Future

Monfongs 888 Twinair technology.

CHTC Fong’s International Co. Ltd. (CHTC Fong’s), together with its wellknown brands: FONG’S, THEN, GOLLER, MONFORTS FONG’S, MONFORTS, and XORELLA, are taking this opportunity to proudly present the “One-Stop” Sustainable Solution in Dyeing and Finishing Range of “pretreatment, dyeing, post-treatment and waste water treatment” at Hall 6, D04 and yarn conditioning and heat setting at Hall 8, D33.

Fong’s High Temperature Package Dyeing Machine ENERWIN Energy-saving High Temperature Package Dyeing Machine ENERWIN adopts new liquor pathways in the dyeing cycles. These new pathways contribute to the decrease in overall energy and water consumption for package dyeing. In addition, ENERWIN can be equipped with

CHTC Fong’s is dedicated in the expansion of Smart Dyeing & Finishing Solution. A full line of the most advanced and innovative products and technology will be exhibited including their latest products: FONG’S ENERWIN Energysaving High Temperature Package Dyeing Machine, THEN AHYBRID Airflow High Temperature Dyeing Machine, GOLLER CYCLONA MODUL Washing Unit for Woven & Knitted Fabric, and MONFORTS FONG’S MONFONGS 888 TWINAIR. The visitors can also explore the CHTC Fong’s one-stop supply of innovative smart dyeing and finishing line at the booth through VR technology.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

main pump in lower power configuration when comparing to the previous package dyeing machine model and it further diminishes the energy consumption.

Then Airflow High Temperature Dyeing Machine AHYBRID Revolutionary Airflow High Temperature Dyeing Machine AHYBRID offers versatile operation modes by switching the combinations of multifunctional nozzles, and eventually offers various dyeing applications for the same batch of fabrics in only one single dyeing machine. It is important to note that airflow dyeing, hydraulic dyeing, airflow-spray dyeing and hydraulic-spray dyeing can be achieved in one AHYBRID and thus the production effectiveness is greatly enhanced as with the machine, the ranges of application in fabrics and dyeing techniques are broadened.

Goller washing unit for woven and knitted fabric CYCLONA MODUL

Energy-saving High Temperature Package Dyeing Machine ENERWIN.

The company by gathering the valuable experiences on the knits; based on the characteristic of the absorption on

woven fabrics; and finally GOLLER has developed CYCLONA MODUL, a washing unit which combines the advantages of integrated rotor-drum washing together with the up-down rollers features. The followings are the three major sections of the new design: 1) The lower section of the unit is equipped with the patented Cyclone rotor as in the Sintensa Cyclone washing unit and is fitted with the new designated co-axial mechanism which brings the maximum speed up to Then Airflow High Temperature 100m/min. Dyeing Machine AHYBRID. Employing the turbulence generated by the Cyclone through the under liquor turbulence rotor, the fast movement of the fabric washing zone in the lower section, can be achieved entirely swelled then it goes through the upper washwhich is ready for washing in a very ing section with the combined sprayshort period. ing and squeezing, and it turns back 2) The upper section of the unit is to the lower section for under liquor equipped with several sets of upturbulence washing again. This washdown rollers, jockey rollers, and ing sequence is generating the best spraying devices which are installed possibility of liquor exchange, and both under liquor and above the extracts the impurity and dirt away rollers. The fabric will firstly pass from the fabric. 3) The last section is designed with interchangeable intermediate trough and patented inclinedsqueezer developed from the family of Sintensa Cyclone. The fabric will effectively be squeezed before leaving the washing zone. The new CYCLONA MODUL combines multi washing Goller washing unit for woven and knitted fabric CYCLONA elements in one MODUL. ( 3D representation) single unit, thus a

shorter range can finally be achieved for utility saving. “Design for customer’s future” is the key of new design concept at GOLLER; the new CYCLONA MODUL has turned over a new page of the openwidth washing on woven and knitted fabrics.

Monforts Fong’s Stenter Frames Range monfongs 888 Twinair Monfongs 888 Twinair technology, is based on the Monforts Germany stenter range. This model combines the most recently developed technology to evolve into a more advanced energy saving stenter range. Advanced squeezing roller: The Matex 6000 of this stenter is equipped with new high efficiency parallel padders which could lower the pickup in the same time keep the fabric hand-feel. This could lead to less energy to evaporate the water content of fabric after passing through the padders. This lower energy consumption could contribute the textile industry to achieve low carbon release target a step further. Energy saving design: A sensor is installed at the fabric outlet opening of the last chamber to detect temperature

variation and trigger fan speed control of exhausted air. The excessive incoming cold air to the chambers can also be avoided. This control of exhausted air is also achieved by a photo-electric sensor placing at inlet track. When it detects no fabric at the pins, the system will lower the speed of circulation fans and the fans of exhausted air. This design will avoid unnecessary energy consumption through controlling the air fan speed of exhausted air. TwinAir: Monforts patented Twin-Air technology allows top and bottom airflow to be regulated separately. It results in drying without marking and the most even temperature possible across the fabric.

adapted to run with OPC protocol. With this system, it still inherits adaptation of current Monfongs software and newest developed device respectively like Q-soft, Monformatic, Mobile apps and Themat, Eco-booster heat recovery device, Dis-OClean device and etc. This system gives edged control technology to dry fabric processing and compatible to connecting of most popular central control system in the market. New Options: By the virtue of new control system, it could adapt to different new options like Oil drop prevention device, Motorized flap door of integrated exhausted duct, Fire extinguisher system and etc.

XORELLA XO-Series Vacuum Conditioning and Heat Setting Machine

Nozzle System CAD Stream: Its “Layon-Air” fabric supporting properties in air and with bulking effect through increased volume by its tumbler effect. Attractive cost/benefit ratio with higher evaporation rates. It also provides continuous fabric support even at the chamber transition points.

XORELLA’s XO-Series energy saving vacuum conditioning and heat setting machines has been well used in improving the quality of yarn and also heat setting of garment.

Qualitex 750 Plus: The new control system Qualitex 750 plus could be

The Xorella XO-Steaming treatment could even penetrate the textile products

for humidification; twist setting, preshrinking the synthetic filament, antistatic, colour fixation of digital printed fabric and heat setting of garment. The latest saturated steam generating system could reduce 30% of connected power loading and save between 15% to 25% energy consumption. In order to satisfy the requirement of different users, Xorella provides both round and cubical machine and also variety of loading and door opening systems for customer selection. Nowadays, XO-Series machines were used in more than 50 countries in the world.

About CHTC Fong’s CHTC Fong’s will build on its sustained success in developing the“OneStop” Sustainable Solution in Dyeing and Finishing Range and creating the best possible user experience of its products. To broaden the development of energysaving and emission reduction dyeing & finishing equipment, CHTC Fong’s will strive and share its dedication to excellence. 

XORELLA’s XO-Series energy saving vacuum conditioning and heat setting machines.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

AUTEFA presents innovative solutions for the textile industry Higher productivity, sustainability and Industry 4.0 compatible solutions will be the highlights of AUTEFA presentations at ITMA Asia+ CITME 2021 in Shanghai. Latest machines from the business units Nonwovens Technology, Woollen Carding Technology and Baling Technology will be featured at Hall 7, Stand A24. The key advantages of the full range of the AUTEFA Solutions textile equipment portfolio will be explained, with a detailed focus on a number of specific innovations. Visitors will hear about the economic and technical benefits of AUTEFA as a systems supplier for full nonwovens lines in technology for carded-crosslapped needlepunching, aerodynamic web forming, spunlace production, and thermobonding. In needlepunching, the company has developed monitoring and quality improvement techniques with its patented 3-level Closed Loop Control System. Here, a scanner evaluates weight

distribution in the final product, while the control system adjusts the profile at the crosslapper and the card feed accordingly. The 3-level Closed Loop Control System also incorporates the WebMax Web Profile Control, which ensures that the fabric profile is regular in both directions. This results in excellent fabric uniformity, with consequent savings in materials and costs.

Optimized potential of fiber supply chain As one of the global market leaders in fully-automatic bale packing systems for staple fiber and tow, the company offers the entire range, from fiber transport to baler – as well as bale transport and warehouse storage of the pressed, wrapped and strapped bales. The UniFork System from AUTEFA Solutions eliminates bottlenecks in fiber production logistics. With its flexible baling concept, AUTEFA Solutions sets the benchmark for fast-growing fiber line capacities.

Preferred option for cashmere woollen spinning Natural fibres continue to grow in popularity for sports and leisure apparel, as well as next-to-skin clothing. For these applications, finer micron wools are required – which means spinners need to produce yarn using finer fiber and to even more exact specifications. AUTEFA Solutions machines deliver excellent quality outcomes in wool, alpaca, and cashmere. They can operate at precise speeds, ensuring consistency and evenness in both top and yarn production. Tops will typically be some 23mm longer, for the best-possible yarn quality. AUTEFA Solutions OCTIR-Dragon Multitrave worsted and semi-worsted cards guarantee high productivity without compromising the quality of the tops. The result is fibre fineness from 14.5-32 microns and fiber length from 20-150 mm. 

Experience Groz-Beckert in person and virtually at ITMA Asia 2021 Groz-Beckert presents the new products from all six product areas. These products are presented both physically as exhibits and in extended form via augmented reality in hall 4, booth C31. In addition to the face-to-face event, the company is inviting industry visitors to its virtual booth. Groz-Beckert is offering all visitors who cannot travel to the trade fair the opportunity to visit their virtual booth. It matches the original booth and has a three-dimensional design. The company has developed the digital service especially for the trade fair. Visitors can move through the virtual space alone or together with a Groz-Beckert employee and view all exhibits in 3D.

Knitting product area

ITMA Asia. The warp knitting machine needles and system parts from Groz-Beckert are precisely matched to each other and achieve an even and error-free warp knitting process. Augmented reality provides deeper insights into the interaction of the individual system components. With the new WarpMasterPlus, the Weaving product area will be presenting an optimal solution for every weaving mill. All properties of the proven WarpMaster concept are illustrated in detail using a 3D model and augmented reality. The miniature weaving mill illustrates the interaction of all products in the area: from cleaning machines and weaving accessories to the KnotMaster.

The Knitting product area will be presenting several product innovations. The SANTM SF staple fiber needle and the SNK SF staple fiber sinker, which is specially designed for use on large diameter circular knitting machines. The durTM needle, which is particularly suitable for high loads on sock machines thanks to its optimized geometries. The SANTM TT for application-specific use in the field of technical textiles for flat knitting machines and a needle that enables new dimensions of fineness to be achieved in the flat knitting area.

The patented GEBECON® felting needle is one of the highlights of the Felting product area, which can be viewed in detail thanks to augmented reality. It offers an improved surface quality and optimized bending resistance. Know-how protection and improved needle logistics are just two of the numerous advantages of the customer product that the area will be highlighting for customers at the booth.

Weaving product area

Tufting product area

Groz-Beckert will also be demonstrating its relevance as a system provider in the area of warp knitting at

Visitors to the Tufting product area, will discover the measurable advantages achieved during the production of tufted floor coverings using the Groz-Beckert

Felting product area

Groz-Beckert Knitting SAN SF.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

Groz-Beckert Knitting SNK

Tufting Gauge Part Systems. Coordinated combination of materials and the functional interaction of all tools ensure the quality and economic results of the tufting process.

Carding product area The Carding product area will be presenting its further developments for the spinning industry. These include the new stationary flat series, the TV56 revolving top and the cylinder card clothing with special tooth geometry. The new stationary flat series is distinguished by an innovative tooth geometry and a new kind of tooth distribution. The new TV56 revolving top features a new setting pattern and 560 points per square inch, making it particularly easy to clean. The improved cylinder card clothing impresses with its special and patented tooth shape, which has a positive effect on maintenance. This makes it particularly well suited for qualityoriented cotton spinning companies that produce high-quality yarns.

Sewing area In the Sewing exhibition area, the focus is on technical textiles – especially in the manufacture of car seats. The SAN® 5.2 special application needle from

Groz-Beckert Weaving WarpMasterPlus.

Groz-Beckert Sewing SAN 5.2

Groz-Beckert is the answer to high demands when sewing car seats. The special geometry gives it sufficient stability. The double groove in the point area improves thread guidance and leads to an even seam pattern, especially in multi-directional sewing processes. The scarf chamfers on both sides of the needle prevent skipped stitches and optimize loop formation. The GEBEDUR®

Groz-Beckert Tufting GaugePartSystem.

Groz-Beckert ITMA Asia 2021 Virtual Booth.

titanium nitride coating increases wear protection. The Sewing customer portal is another digital service on offer. The specialist area is presenting its functions and content.

About Groz-Beckert Groz-Beckert is the world’s leading provider of industrial machine needles, precision parts and fine tools as well as

systems and services for the production and joining of textile fabrics. The products and services support the fields of knitting, weaving, felting, tufting, carding and sewing. The family-owned company, founded in 1852, employed around 9,000 people and generated a turnover of Euro 618 Mio. in 2020. GrozBeckert operates with agencies, production and distribution subsidiaries in more than 150 countries around the world.

Groz-Beckert Carding Cylinder wire.

Groz-Beckert Felting Customer Product

2FAST – compact design for competitive performance.

Santex Rimar shows fabric manufacturers’ favorites Santex Rimar Group unites leading players in the world of textile machinery for weaving, finishing, technical textiles, and green technologies for water treatment and drying processes. Three of these well-known brands will show their novelties and flagship ranges with an impressive technology presentation at ITMA Asia + CITME. The exhibition in Shanghai is not only a great opportunity for the Group to present its innovations – but also to spread the news about the recently opened production site in Qingpu District, Shanghai on the 50th anniversary of Santex Rimar Shanghai, in November 2020. The modern and highly automated plant comprises three production halls, employing nearly 100 people. All the machines to be shown at ITMA Asia + CITME will be newly produced in China.

Ingenious solutions The famous Santex brand in textile finishing has developed a novel air-flow technique for high-quality processing. The fabric is carried on a cushion of air, giving a softer handle and better shrinkage values.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

The new Santaframe stenter features ingenious solutions for heated air distribution and exhaust. Its heating element is uniquely positioned, after the circulating air turbine (on the pressure side), in a sealed chamber above the fabric track. This avoids the risk of condensation dropping onto the fabric. Improved loading of the circulating and exhaust air with humidity results in less exhaust air than conventional stenter frames. Further highlights of the new Santaframe include a built-in exhaust ducting device, an emergency standstill system and the choice of heating devices. The renowned Aero-Surf Nozzle System is still a key element, promoting softest handle, excellent shrinkage and uniform heat-setting. At its original launch in the late 1990s, the Santaframe offered already unmatched performance and groundbreaking technology, which was widely appreciated by finishers.

Best investment choice for weavers SMIT is a renowned producer of weaving machines, known for developing the world’s first flexible-ribbon weaving machine in 1958. Today, the Free Flight

Ribbons System works without ribbon guide hooks, to ensure the ‘cleanest shed, and the 2FAST compact weaving machine offers many more technical innovations for competitive performance. Top weavers fully appreciate the new patented grippers, with a reduced crosssection which guarantees top efficiency for every yarn type. Optimized shed geometry ensures perfect fabric construction and high efficiency at the greatest production rates. Further advantages come from the short mechanical transmission, ensuring highest running regularity, and low energy consumption. The high-efficiency brushless motor with permanent magnets delivers the highest power factor with lowest heat generation. 2FAST is a long-term investment that is built to last, with its ‘Robust Design’ methodology assuring long service life and minimum spare parts use. Its solid construction is based on a 20% increase in frame stiffness. Like all SMIT machines, its overall investment appeal combines innovation, productivity and versatility, for maximum competitiveness across a wide variety of applications.

CAVIMELT – The rotogravure system for fabric lamination.

Perfect for laminating Cavitec gives fabric the final touch, with sophisticated machinery for coating, laminating, impregnation and prepreg. Finest laminating is provided by Cavimelt’s rotogravure system – actually a printing technique. Using the hot-melt process this textile laminating machine applies adhesive as dots or in predefined patterns, using an engraved roller, on film, web and textile substrates. Hot-melt technology offers many advantages over conventional coating

and laminating processes. Its wide application range, flexibility and high production reliability means producers can choose from a large selection of adhesives and substrates. The Cavimelt process is user-friendly, as well as sustainable, since it’s free of solvents and water and doesn’t need auxiliary equipment to evaporate exhaust air and any questionable emissions. Cavimelt is gentle to the environment, laminating with a soft touch and performing surface treatments to suit many application-specific requirements.

It will be the textile industry’s first face-to-face reunion in a very long time, so Santex Rimar Group is eagerly looking forward to welcoming visitors at ITMA Asia + CITME 2021. Santaframe, 2FAST and Cavimelt will be three of several highlights on the Santex Rimar display, located in hall 5 booth C34 in the finishing section, while SMIT will exhibit in the weaving zone in hall 3 booth D08. Visitors and interested parties may be able to arrange a visit to the Qingpu production site for deeper insights.

SANTAFRAME – high-quality processing.

Jeanologia introduces sourcing model based on automatization, sustainability, digitalization, on demand manufacturing, and operational cost reduction China is ready to go to next level consolidating itself as a key player on a global scale. Jeanologia creates the perfect setting to turn the Chinese market into the most competitive and efficient, increasing its productivity and offering a totally sustainable product. Jeanologia, as one of the world leaders in sustainable and eco-efficient technology development, will introduce its new operational model reinforcing its commitment to the Chinese textile industry accompanying it to achieve the total revolution of the manufacturing process. The model is focused on automatization, sustainability, digitalization, on demand manufacturing, and operational cost reduction, it integrates all the technologies of the company bringing a set of technological solutions, to reach an automated production that reduces operational costs and environmental impact.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

Jeanologia started the biggest transformation that the Chinese denim industry had ever seen. But this was only the beginning, and the industry still had deficiencies and continues to use archaic and polluting production methods. Now, with implementation of Jeanologia transformational technologies G2 Dynamic, laser, G2 Ozone, e-Flow, Smart Boxes, Color Box, H2Zero, and their end-to-end digital solutions is possible to connect fabric, design and finishing changing the way jeans are produced and made improving manufacturing costs and significantly reducing the time to market.

automation, digitization and sustainability, all together, consolidate it as a world power." It is time to move from fast fashion to accurate fashion, to produce what we need instead of selling what we produce, helping the Chinese industry to produce with zero waste without compromising product authenticity or increasing costs and adapting to the new market needs, overcoming these challenges that are so important to its future,” he added.

Handman, a step further

As Danny Zheng, Jeanologia Area Manager in China, has highlighted, "China is ready to accelerate its transformation and we are ready to lead it."

At ITMA Shanghai, the company will introduce also Handman, a new solution that, through the combination of its eco technologies, makes sustainable production scalable marking the beginning of a completely automated new era.

For years, they have dominated the global textile industry as a key player on a global scale, he noted, "now is time to move to the next level where

Handman is the future of Jeans manufacturing, that will help China to accelerate their transformation on manufacturing and supply chain,

consolidating itself as a key player on a global scale and creating the perfect setting to turn the Chinese market into the most competitive and efficient, increasing its productivity and offering a totally sustainable product. The technology is equipped by two lasers and a robot cabinet. A human and a robot work together to produce with scalability, agility, sustainability, and efficiency. Two humans working with two robots and two lasers can produce 10,000 vintage jeans in 24 hours without discharge.

A strong position in the China market Jeanologia has been present in China for more than 15 years and is the technological partner for the main brands in the country that have started their transformation to sustainability.

Currently 10% of jeans production in China is done using the company’s technology, either for exports of global brands like GAP, American Eagle, H&M, Uniqlo, Levi's, Primark, Lee, Wrangler or G-Star among others; or for companies operating within the national market like Jack & Jones China, Meters Bonwe, or PeaceBird. Today, more than 100 customers in the country market place their confidence in Jeanologia using technology developed by the company, and the number of machines has steadily increased in the last years with more than 400 equipment installed and operating in different parts of the country. It should be noted that last year the company opened an innovative Hub in Hong Kong, to consolidate its

internationalization process and be closer to clients offering them the best service. The Spanish company mission has been to create an ethical, sustainable, and eco-efficient industry through their disruptive technology and know-how. Their laser, G2 ozone, e-flow, Smart Boxes, Colorbox and H2Zero, have revolutionized the textile industry. They offer infinite design and garment finishing possibilities, while saving water, energy, and chemicals, eliminating discharge and toxic emissions. Danny Zheng, Jeanologia Area Manager in China will be present at hall 5, stand 12 during the exhibition. 

Loepfe showcases the market leading YarnMaster® PRISMA Loepfe showcases the market-leading YarnMaster® PRISMA along with its well-established counterpart YarnMaster® ZENIT+ (Hall 8, stand C22). With this dual offering, Loepfe uniquely leads both on technology and performance as well as on the proven reliability and price dimensions.

Due to the prevailing Covid-19 travel restrictions, Loepfe will be represented at ITMA Asia 2021 by its partners C.N.T. - CIMACO Ltd. and Point Hope (Textile Machinery) Ltd., while Loepfe representatives will be available for ad-hoc conference calls at any time. 

YarnMaster® PRISMA dazzles with its innovative use of four distinct sensor technologies – a unique blend that for the first time combines infrared optical, RGB optical, capacitive and triboelectric sensors and collaborating in perfect harmony, along with connectivity for the digital age. These elements not only allow the detection of previously invisible yarn faults and irregularities, but also the collection and analysis of data for effective online quality management through Loepfe’s MillMaster® TOP management cockpit. Loepfe’s Head of Product & Solutions, Guido Wieland commented: “YarnMaster ZENIT+ is highly regarded as our workhorse and has been well-established over the years. And while our competitors are still using sensor technology that has been developed more than a decade ago, with YarnMaster® PRISMA we have clearly set the global benchmark for yarn clearing sensor technologies. Drawing on today’s smart technology, we have taken performance in its various applications to a whole new level. The whole team is excited to see the enthusiasm generated by the YarnMaster® PRISMA – and our motivation to deliver even more intelligent solutions is at an all-time high. Watch this space!”

Uster product launches and major innovations ready to go live The Uster 2021 product launch season is well under way: the new Quantum 4.0 yarn clearer introduced in March, followed in April by the Q-Bar 2. Alongside these innovations came new Quality Expert software, with the latest Mill Dashboard feature. Now, these major developments are ready to go live for the first time at ITMA Asia + CITME 2021 in Shanghai First, Uster took decisive steps to remove any uncertainties over event timings by releasing news of the Mill Dashboard through its official LinkedIn account, along with a promise of more innovations to come. The launch season continued, with the new yarn clearer and the innovative formation monitoring system being presented online, ahead of the upcoming ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition in China.

Capacitive and optical sensors in one The brand-new Uster Quantum 4.0 yarn clearer offers the best of both sensor technologies – capacitive and optical – for intelligent yarn quality control and optimized profitability. Mills can now focus on meeting the fast-moving market chal-

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

lenges, instead of pondering technical options. Spinners can now access full security in quality control, ensuring the best clearing mode is applied. The Quantum 4.0 generation enables this through a simple capacitive/optical switch. This allows greater flexibility in the yarn types which can be produced, while also dealing with factors such as humidity variations. Using its unique Smart Duo technology, the Quantum 4.0 operates both sensor channels intelligently in tandem, through an innovation known as Cross Clearing. This locates and eliminates hidden defects by means of a double check, in which the main sensor’s signal is supported by the assistance sensor. This deals with issues such as unnoticed fluff events, which might otherwise cause breaks downstream. Today’s market trends show strong demand for compact yarns. Here, spinners can trust Quantum 4.0 to tap this potential and deal with any quality issues. The density feature, for example, protects mills from substandard cops caused by ring spinning malfunctions such as blocked compacting zones, or twist problems. The Smart Duo has the advantage of monitoring yarn density continuously and after every splice.

As well as identifying issues at winding, defect prevention at source is now possible – a massive advantage provided by the clearer’s new Quantum Expert, included in the product offering. Thanks to many extra intelligent analytical features, the Uster Quantum Expert enhances process control and prevention of defects, through Total Contamination Control, Ring Spinning Optimization and the RSO 3D Value Module.

Fabric inspection: the right position Q-Bar 2 is best described as a formation monitoring system, because of its ingenious positioning on the loom, directly at the interface of warp and weft threads. The impact on weaving is amazing: monitoring at the earliest possible stage allows rapid response as soon as a defect appears, avoiding long-running or repeating faults. Alarm and stop signals alert the operator to correct problems immediately. Early detection reduces second quality and material loss, as well as minimizing the need for post-production checks. Weaving defects can have various root causes, so Uster Q-Bar 2 provides different algorithms to identify specific defects and their causes. This inbuilt knowledge can prevent defects within the

weft insertion cycle. The detection position in the fabric formation zone means the warp is monitored even before it is traversed by the weft – a truly unique benefit. It allows detection of incorrect warp positions, missing warp, loose warp ends and even pattern irregularities. Another important innovation is the control of weft irregularities. By monitoring each inserted weft in the formation area, Q-Bar 2 primes users to react to weft irregularities at the earliest possible stage. At this point, it can detect weftrelated defects such as double picks, broken weft or slubs and loops. First-quality production, to customer specifications, is the overall goal. That is especially important in demanding applications such as industrial and safety textiles. In apparel and home textiles too, it is vital to avoid seconds and minimize waste fabric. Independent of the fabric application, Uster Q-Bar 2 is a game-changer. For the first time, weavers can actually prevent weaving defects instead of only reacting to them.

Key people, key data The introduction of the latest Mill Dashboard might seem like just another of many new features with Uster Quality Expert. But this one can bring significant changes for operators in spinning mills. The new version of the Mill Dashboard presents key data directly to key individuals in the spinning mill, so they can react

rapidly to any quality deviations. It also ensures greater transparency on the shop floor.

Quality Expert. Clever animations will provide a deep understanding of databased quality during yarn production.

The latest release of Uster Quality Expert is available for connection – and all key quality parameters from laboratory and in-line instruments can be displayed, targeted to individual needs and preferences.

Final insider tip: the twist measurement feature of Uster Tester 6 will be shown for the first time in Asia.

Real and virtual worlds In keeping with current trends and pandemic restrictions, Uster has also developed an effective home in the virtual world, with an online showroom to enhance in-person exhibition attendance. First of all, the new virtual showroom is exclusively open to customers who are advised to get in touch with their sales contact. Ready to host visitors to ITMA Asia + CITME 2021, Uster will present a showcase of the latest innovations. The Quantum 4.0 is sure to be an attentiongrabber: a demonstration of Quantum Expert will illustrate how customers can benefit from Quantum 4.0 and its related systems. The stylish design and the defect catalogue will trigger initial interest for QBar 2 – what’s likely to be even more memorable is the demonstration of how well the smart indicator lights work to show up the positions of detected defects. Also on view will be a Mill Dashboard screen, along with the Value Modules and other features of Uster

About Uster Technologies Uster is the world’s leading provider of quality management solutions from fiber to fabric. Uster Technologies offers high-technology instruments, systems and services for quality control, prediction, certification and optimization in the textile industry. This includes systems for quality management, laboratory testing and in-line process control for fibers, staple and filament yarns, fabric inspection as well as value-added services. Uster provides the globally-acknowledged Uster Statistics benchmarks for trading, textile know-how training, consulting and worldwide after-sales services – always aspiring to fulfill the textile market’s needs, to drive innovation forward with ‘quality in mind’. Uster Technologies AG is headquartered in Uster, Switzerland and operates worldwide. It has sales and service subsidiaries in the major textile markets and Technology Centers in Uster (Switzerland), Knoxville (USA), Suzhou (China) and Caesarea (Israel). 

Saurer to showcase automation innovations

Saurer CableCorder CC5.

Saurer invites customers to learn about its newest automation solutions, both within its machines and extending across entire textile mills. The company is meeting the growing demand for cost-effective automation both in spinning and twisting/cabling mills. The well-known E3 attributes of the Saurer design philosophy – energy, economics and ergonomics – are enhanced with intelligent technologies, which address pressing issues related to labour and ergonomics. Visitors can find Saurer products and services at booth F01 in hall 8.

Automation in the textile mill The company provides intelligent and individual automation solutions for twisting and spinning mills that increase the efficiency of machine loading and package transportation, allowing for substantial time and cost savings along the entire textile value chain. Visitors can see new Saurer palletiser in action on the booth.

Staple fibre processing: From bale to yarn to package

Saurer AutoBD SynchroPiecing

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2021

Starting the spinning value chain from preparation, Saurer is showcasing the new Autocard featuring a larger carding area with 18% higher output and seamless can change ensures the production and quality of sliver during high-speed production. Being introduced for the first time at the ITMA Asia + CITME this year, the semiautomatic rotor-spinning machine AutoBD will set new standards with flexible automation options.

Together with the air-spinning machine Autoairo, AutoBD is part of the new Saurer intelligent machine portfolio, along with the ring-spinning machine ZI 72XL, Autoconer X6 winding machine and the Autocard. Innovative automation and smart features like intelligent speed maximisation, RIFD-based material flow and light concepts for operator guidance, support mill automation and increased efficiency and productivity. With customers' challenges in mind, Saurer has ensured that its machines are becoming increasingly flexible. Modular solutions are available in both ring- and open-end spinning: ZI 72XL offers two compact options – the Impact FX pro for finer count will be presented on the booth, AutoBD offers flexible automation solutions, which can be retrofitted, and Autocoro has options especially for processing regenerated fibres. Visitors can also learn more about the new open prism technology that offers improved splice quality, handling and maintenance.

Saurer Ring spinning 72 XL FX pro.

Components that boost quality On the staple fibre side, Saurer will show the new CS1S based high-performance spindle from the Texparts product line in combination with Spinnfinity zero underwinding. Accotex will show a complete line of air-spinning portfolio as well as a new quality ring-spinning apron and cot (apron NO-79201 and cot J468). The texturing units FTS525M from the Temco product line are highly flexible – the direction of the yarn twist can easily be changed, and no adjustment of the cooling plate is required for S/Z production. CoolFlow Texturing Discs from the Temco product line optimise the air stream and improve heat transfer, resulting in less swelling as well as a significant reduction in disc load, at process speeds of up to 1000 m/min. In the Fibrevision product line, Saurer will show an upgrade option for tension monitoring with the market-leading Fraytec FV1 and FV2 systems for broken filament monitoring for technical and industrial yarns.

Superior innovations for twisting and cabling At the exhibition, Saurer will also show the two-for-one twisting machine CompactTwister, which offers high efficiency combined with excellent quality of the cross-wound delivery packages produced. The direct cabling machine CableCorder CC5, for tire cord and industrial yarns, features a new spindle gauge 400 with up to 200 spindles, making it a true space saver. Its Cord Regulator technology ensures equal lengths of the individual yarns and thus high cord quality.

Saurer Ring spinning 72 XL FX pro.

Both these machines can be used in conjunction with tailored transport automation from Saurer Automation Solutions, which allows for substantial time and cost savings.

Sales and service offerings The company offers of updates and upgrades, original parts and clever preventive services, while the Saurer Academy offers digital training. At the exhibition, visitors will also learn about the new features on the Secos – Saurer Customer Portal.

Digital – new Elements for Senses With the new Elements for the Senses mill management system, Shop Floor and Recipe, customers can efficiently optimise production and quality. Saurer Texparts

Autolab laboratory systems

Eshape spindle

These laboratory systems offer customers the most modern, highly precise measuring devices with unique technologies and are easy to operate.

Saurer Accotex NO6270KN.

Saurer invites customers to explore these and other offerings at ITMA Asia – the team looks forward to discussing what the company's innovations can do for visitors’ businesses. 

BRÜCKNER – at home in Shanghai! helps over distance and saves time for both sides.

BRÜCKNER finishing line for artificial turf.

BRÜCKNER’s experts are locally available for customers in China not only during ITMA ASIA 2021, but the new branch office in Shanghai ensures even greater proximity to customers. For more than 70 years the German textile machinery manufacturer BRÜCKNER has been one of the world leaders in the field of dry finishing of textiles, technical textiles, nonwovens, glass fabrics and floor coverings. In-house production in Germany ensures a high level of system diversity and enables fast and flexible adaptation to customer requirements. Worldwide, about 90 agencies work for BRÜCKNER, so that customers have a local contact person in almost every country of the world. China is one of the most important markets worldwide in the textile industry, therefore two agencies have been working here for BRÜCKNER for many years. In order to be even better positioned in the future, BRÜCKNER founded its own branch office in Shanghai at the end of 2019. Besides the staff for sales, service and administration, BRÜCKNER's own technicians are on the road all over the country to commission machines and to attend to customers personally. Depending on demand, the technicians are also on the road

throughout Asia. If travel times and distances allow, service calls can be realized within 24 hours. In addition, a local spare parts stock in Shanghai offers customers rapid availability of original parts. From June 12-16, 2021, BRÜCKNER will present its product portfolio and services at ITMA ASIA in Shanghai. In hall 6, booth no. A18 the BRÜCKNER team is looking forward to its visitors! These can look forward to new features relating to Industry 4.0 and automated production. Among them is an intelligent assistance system that gives the machine operator valuable tips on setting the individual machine parameters. For example, he is shown how he can save even more energy while maintaining the same level of productivity. A newly developed maintenance manager monitors all processes in the background and supports the operating personnel in planning maintenance and cleaning work. The system also provides information on the timely reordering of wear parts. All current production data can be accessed at any time via the new dashboard tool, such as batch size, energy consumption and machine downtimes. If the support of a BRÜCKNER technician is necessary, many service cases can also be solved online via augmented reality. This also

Visitors of the trade fair can also inform themselves about further products and services of BRÜCKNER. For example, when it comes to coating technical textiles. BRÜCKNER has already supplied many lines in this field with fabric widths up to 7 meters. Here, both first-class machines and competent advice are essential. With BRÜCKNER you get everything from one source! In the field of knitted fabric finishing, BRÜCKNER has been the world leader for decades. No matter whether extremely sensitive fabrics such as lace or fabrics with a high elastane content are to be finished or whether knitted fabric is to be coated directly, BRÜCKNER offers for every application the perfect solution individually adapted to the customer. Also in the nonwovens sector BRÜCKNER has developed a lot in the last years. The different ovens in BRÜCKNER's product portfolio dry and consolidate nonwovens materials for the most different fields, such as e.g. hygiene and medical textiles, building and geotextiles, filter materials as well as fabrics for clothing, cleaning, care and vehicles. Various application systems such as foam impregnation units, coating machines, kiss-roll or flocking units complete the product range. BRÜCKNER offers complete lines for the finishing of carpets, PVC floor coverings or artificial turf. Of course BRÜCKNER offers for all lines also corresponding components for energy saving. Heat-recovery and pollution control systems are the most efficient, allowing customers to achieve significant energy savings depending on the type of fabric and process. Due to the modular design, BRÜCKNER lines are also very easy to clean. In addition to reducing the consumption of valuable resources, these lines also make a significant contribution to environmental protection. In addition, the company offers comprehensive and integral energy consulting, specifically adapted to the circumstances of each individual customer. 

Picanol to premier GTMax-i3.0S and GTMax-S Following the highly successful ITMA Europe in 2019, ITMA ASIA + CITME will be the textile machinery industry’s first major exhibition in two years. Understandably, everyone at Picanol is really looking forward to this event, especially given that the close cooperation between CTMA and Cematex has transformed ITMA ASIA + CITME into the most important biennial meeting point not only for the Asian but also for the global textile industry. “Everyone at Picanol is eager to help our customers by providing the best technologies available on the market for airjet and rapier machines, as well as an outstanding local service and support team. The four development principles of Picanol Smart Performance, Sustainability Inside, Driven by Data, and Intuitive Control - guide us in all our ventures. Inspired by these four principles, our R&D team has been developing some really exciting innovations that will be displayed at ITMA ASIA + CITME. These include two airjet weaving machines, four rapier weaving machines for flat fabrics, as well as one rapier machine for weaving terry towel. Furthermore, there will be an additional rapier machine in jacquard execution at the Bonas booth,” comments Johan Verstraete, Vice President Weaving Machines. In addition to displaying the many innovations made to its range of both airjet and rapier machines, Picanol will also be premiering two new rapier machines: the brand new GTMax-i 3.0S will be shown in a 4 color dobby execution, weaving a denim style, whereas the new GTMax-S on display will be an 8 color dobby machine in 380 cm reed width weaving a silk fabric. Picanol will also be demonstrating an OptiMax-i gripper machine in free flight execution of 540 cm width at the exhibition. This represents a significant innovation breakthrough for specific technical segments.

Warp:Co Ne 16/1 , Density 35.7 ends/cm, Drawing in width 223 cm Weft: PES/EL 150/40 den + PES 300 and density 35.4 picks/cm Features include BlueBox electronic platform, SUMO Drive concept, Dobby S2678B with Stäubli undermotion, DRC2 Harness Frame connection, Guided Gripper (GOH) and Electronic Selvedge System (ELSY).

GTMax-S-8-R-380 Silk The new GTMax-S with its dedicated silk execution offers the perfect solution for weaving top-quality fabrics.

TerryMax-i-8-R-260 Terry towel The benchmark for terry weaving. No limitations in design, aiming at maximum performance in combination with ultimate quality.

GTMax-i-3.0S 4-R-230 Denim The new GTMax-i 3.0S sets the benchmark for competitive and qualitative weaving – and it’s also available in 240 and 250 cm reed width for ultimate stretch fabrics.

Also on display at Picanol booth:     

OptiMax-i-4-R-220 Worsted OmniPlus-i-4-P-190 Poplin OmniPlus-i-6-D-220 Ladies wear OptiMax-i-4-R-540 Coating GTMax-i-3.0S 8-J-340 (Bonas – Hall 3 – Booth D01).

Classified

ADVERTISERS INDEX JUNE 2021

ACIMIT .....................................................................BC Archroma..................................................................IBC AVM Chemicals ...................................................6 & 64 Benninger....................................................................21 Biancalani SpA............................................................9 Chhipasons................................................................64 CCI USA....................................................................FC Groz-Beckert .............................................................13 iTextiles .....................................................................33 Jet Logistics................................................................64 Jakob Mueller ............................................................17 Monforts ...................................................................IFC Rastgar.............................................................. 31 & 64 Santex Rimar Group...................................................23 Saurer ........................................................................1 Savio...........................................................................3 SSM AG ....................................................................15 Swissmem ..................................................................11 Texgro........................................................................29 Uster ..........................................................................19

Established 1951

Established 1951 April 2021

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing I

May 2021

German Review

Pakistan Textile Journal, June 2021

Articles inside

Loepfe showcases the market leading YarnMaster® PRISMA

Santex Rimar shows fabric manufacturers’ favorites

digitalization, on demand manufacturing, and operational cost reduction

Biancalani World’s top textile machinery brand names

CHTC Fong’s: Innovate for a Smart Future

Virtual trip to Asia by VDMA

Italian companies at ITMA ASIA + CITME

BRÜCKNER – at home in Shanghai

Italian textile machinery firm Marzoli exhibiting at ITMA Asia

Textile weaving sector: Current challenges and opportunities

“ITMA Asia 2021: Rieter – Ensuring Competitiveness Through Technology

ARCHROMA releases its 2020 sustainability report

Living in the world of sustainability

Major innovations ready to go live

Automation made smarter — Zünd launches Cradle Feeder 100

Sateri to Expand Lyocell Production in China

CANOTWAIT cooperates with KLEAN to unveil a New Sustainable Series

U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol Announces Levi Strauss & Co and Their Legacy brands as new members

Swedish automation boosts Tritex sewing operations

TMaxxam textiles launches new Q-Nova fabric made from Recycled Yarn

Rieter updates outlook for first half year 20

EFI Reggiani BOLT has reached an important milestone

DiloGroup Engineering for Nonwovens

Your world – our technology: The new Jakob Müller website is a clear statement of customer focus