Reef Hobbyist Magazine Q4 2022

FOURTH QUARTER 2022 I VOLUME 16

FRISKY LITTLE

TOBIES

AFTER SHOCK CHALICE

REEF SPOTLIGHTS: MACROALGAE MARVEL, AVATAR REEF, THE CORAL TREE

FEATURES 6

MACROALGAE MARVEL Dennis (Tigahboy) is a macroalgae fanatic who has kept a variety of saltwater tanks since 2004. Macroalgae-oriented display tanks have become a fast-growing segment of our hobby. Here’s the latest creation from one of the vanguards of this genre.

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AFTER SHOCK CHALICE Juan Gabriel Grajales lives in Mexico City and has been keeping reefs for over a decade. Chalices from the genus Echinophyllia are well known to be some of the most vibrant corals in the sea, but the After Shock chalice takes this to a whole new level.

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AVATAR REEF OF JAPAN Hoshitsutsu is a Japanese aquarist who has spent 25 years in the aquarium hobby, the last 15 in reefkeeping. In an homage to the movie Avatar, this well-designed reef evokes the wonders and brilliance of the world of Pandora.

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ON THE COVER FRISKY LITTLE TOBIES

Sabine Penisson is a French photographer and author focused on coral reef fauna. Colorful and endearing, dwarf puffers of the Canthigaster genus are some of the most personable fish available to the reef hobbyist, with a few caveats.

Cover image by Sabine Penisson

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THE CORAL TREE Dave Notter works professionally as a product manager for a restaurant chain in Switzerland and has been in the reef hobby for 8 years.

This display elucidates the benefits of good planning, discipline, and sticking to a theme.

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ATLANTIC PORITES Levi Peterson is a 19-year-old hobbyist who is passionate about oddball marine life and currently resides in Plant City, FL. Porites are some of the most ubiquitous corals on the planet. Join Levi for a quick survey of our six Atlantic species.

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FRAGGING FOR THE FUTURE: SCOLYS Ngoc Tran lives in Australia and has been an aquarium enthusiast for 20 years. Read how a handful of damaged scolys (Homophyllia australis) led to a successful fragging and recovery program for these amazing corals.

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THE MAGICAL MANDARIN, SYNCHIROPUS SPLENDIDUS Jim Adelberg is RHM’s executive editor.

Successful husbandry of Mandarin Dragonets requires specialized knowledge and dedication to their care. See what it takes to keep your very own minidragon here.

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FOURTH QUARTER 2022 | Volume 16 © 2022 Reef Hobbyist Magazine. All rights reserved.

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Macroalgae Marvel DENNIS (TIGAHBOY)

I

’d kept freshwater fish tanks since I was a child and a saltwater FOWLR (fish only with live rock) tank briefly when I was a preteen. But it wasn’t until law school that I purchased my first reef aquarium. I had wandered randomly into a fish store that stocked coral in the summer of 2004, and that marked the beginning of my reefing hobby.

My early encounters with macroalgae were unremarkable.

Chaetomorpha was my first, and it was relegated to the refugium in my stand, out of sight and out of mind. Later, I kept ornamental macroalgae (various Caulerpa spp., Dragon’s Breath, Halimeda spp., and Gracilaria hayi) as accents to the corals that were the primary stars of those tanks.

In 2019, I discovered Instagram, with its huge community of aquarists from all corners of the hobby. It was then that I started to find real inspiration in freshwater planted tanks. These planted tanks focused on the overall aesthetics of the aquarium, featuring aquascapes

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that resembled landscapes. They relied on aquatic plants to create natural-looking works of living art. Toward the beginning of the pandemic in early 2020, I decided to try my hand at a saltwater planted tank with a UNS 45A rimless aquarium but with macroalgae as the plant element. That first tank was the start of my macroalgae obsession. I wrote an article about it in the Q2 2021 issue of Reef Hobbyist Magazine, so I won’t rehash what’s covered there. But since then, I’ve created at least a dozen more macroalgae tanks.

For this article, I’d like to focus on one of my favorites: a 30-gallon Innovative Marine tank that was established in October of 2021.

SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS Display: Innovative Marine 30L Nuvo Fusion Pro AIO Lighting: ReefBreeders Photon 32-V2 Pro LED Return Pump: MightyJet 538 GPH Auto Top-Off: ReefBreeders Prism Heater: Bulk Reef Supply 200-watt titanium

Freshwater mollies are great for removing diatoms and other nuisance algae.

Filtration: MarinePure 2” ceramic biomedia cubes, InTank filter floss Dosing: Brightwell Aquatics ChaetoGro, NeoNitro, NeoPhos, Ferrion, ATI Essentials Pro 2 Salt: Fritz Reef Pro Mix Testing: Hanna Instruments Checkers (salinity, nitrate, phosphate), Salifert test kits (calcium, alkalinity, magnesium) HARDSCAPE This is the largest macroalgae tank I’ve worked on to date, and a lot of thought went into the aquascape. I used 20 pounds of maricultured live rock (five pieces in total) from KP Aquatics for the hardscape. Three of the five pieces were used to create a large prominent rock on the right side of the tank. Then I broke up and positioned the remaining pieces to create a gradual slope down toward the left side. I added about 30 pounds of CaribSea reef sand to make a gradual incline toward the back right corner of the tank and provide some depth to the aquascape as well.

A molly fry hiding in Rhipocephalus phoenix

I test for and dose nitrates and phosphates most often because I believe these are critical to a thriving macroalgae tank. I dose Brightwell Aquatics NeoNitro and NeoPhos daily (as needed) to keep nitrates between 20 and 30 ppm and phosphates between 0.1 and 0.2 ppm. Dosing the various other essential nutrients that macroalgae need is also critical. I add Brightwell Aquatics ChaetoGro and Ferrion for that purpose, as well as perform weekly 20 percent water changes with Fritz Reef Pro Mix salt to replenish anything that’s not dosed. The calcium and alkalinity consumption in this tank is relatively low, but I do dose ATI Essentials Pro 2-part as needed.

PLANTS AND LIVESTOCK Like my other recent tanks, I wanted the macroalgae to be the main focus, so I placed a variety of species with contrasting colors throughout the tank to showcase just how colorful this type of display can be. I have over 18 species of macroalgae in here that I’ve collected over time from various online vendors, local fish stores, and macroalgae hobbyists.

I have a variety of inverts as well, including Astraea spp. snails, Florida ceriths, dwarf ceriths, Sexy Shrimp, and feather dusters.

I’ve kept different fish in this tank but currently have a pair of Darwin Clownfish and two Balloon Mollies that were born in one of my prior macroalgae tanks. I also have some NPS (non-photosynthetic) corals, including a Leptogorgia virgulata that I received from Levi Peterson, who has authored articles on NPS corals in Reef Hobbyist Magazine as well.

WATER PARAMETERS Temperature: 75° F Specific Gravity: 1.025 Nitrate: 20–30 ppm Phosphate: 0.1–0.2 ppm Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Leptogorgia virgulata

A medley of macroalgae

MAINTENANCE Regal Angelfish

In addition to dosing nutrients for my macroalgae, I feed my fish and inverts daily with some combination of Reef Nutrition TDO Chroma Boost Pellets (X-Small), Arcti Pods, R.O.E., and Hikari Crab Cuisine.

These offerings are rotated to provide a variety of different meals.

I feed my feather dusters and NPS corals daily with a mix of Reef Nutrition Phyto Feast, Oyster Feast, and Roti Feast.

My typical weekly maintenance includes a 20 to 30 percent water change, glass cleaning, pump cleaning as needed, and of course, lots and lots of trimming. Macroalgae generally grow very quickly, so staying on top of the trimming is essential to keep them from overgrowing the tank. I also noticed the larger, older portions of Caulerpa are more prone to going sexual. Regularly removing the older growth of Caulerpa could help minimize these events (though as I mentioned in my prior article, macroalgae going sexual can be managed with big water changes and by running carbon).

CHALLENGES The biggest challenge I face with this tank (and really most of my other macroalgae tanks) is the continued recurrence of dinoflagellate outbreaks (in my case Ostreopsis spp.). I typically

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Gorgonians make great additions to macroalgae tanks.

Sexy Shrimp (Thor amboinensis)

run a UV sterilizer with good results whenever this happens, but eventually, the outbreak returns. The second biggest challenge I face is the growth of hair algae. Given how high I run my nutrients, hair algae always seem to find a way to thrive when inadvertently introduced into my macroalgae tanks. I haven’t quite figured out the solution for this other than nutrient reduction and aggressive manual removal.

WHAT’S NEXT? Unlike a traditional reef tank, macroalgae tanks reach maturity very quickly. Macroalgae grow so fast that they fill the tank in a matter of months (sometimes weeks), and from then on, it’s all about constant trimming and maintaining a balance in the tank between the various competing macroalgae. For this reason, I generally find myself moving on to a new project after a tank has hit that point.

I do believe this tank has reached maturity, but I’m not yet ready to move on. I have a larger macroalgae project (UNS 90U) in the works, so I might consolidate this tank and my other nano/pico/ micro tanks into that system in the near future, though my plans are still uncertain. For now, I’m very much enjoying the beauty of the macroalgae showcased in this display and hope to continue sharing it with the world.

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FINAL THOUGHTS There’s been an explosion in the number of macroalgae tanks on social media and online forums lately. When I first wrote about them early last year, I wasn’t sure if this trend would catch on, but now I believe it's here to stay (I’m even presenting on this topic at MACNA 2022 in Milwaukee!).

I continue to be amazed and inspired by all the new macroalgae displays in the hobby and love how the enthusiasm for macroalgae, from both freshwater and saltwater aquarists, has grown over the past year. My passion for these displays has only become stronger over time, and I look forward to sharing bigger and more interesting macroalgae projects in the future.

If you have any questions about keeping macroalgae, please feel free to reach out to me via Instagram (@tigahboy. h2o), Reef2Reef.com, or Nano-Reef.com (Tigahboy). R

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The hardscape was built with 20 pounds of live rock and 30 pounds of CaribSea Special Grade sand.

AFTER SHOCK CHALICE

JUAN GABRIEL GRAJALES 12

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I

’ve always loved chalice corals. With their vivid blue, orange, and green colors, they are absolute standouts in any reef tank. About 4 years ago, I received a frag of the After Shock chalice (Echinophyllia sp.), originally named by the well-known aquarist Jason Fox. Over the past few years, I have tried not to cut this coral to allow for its full development as a display colony, and it’s now 10” × 12”. This piece has shown great growth and coloration, producing marvelous colors under full-spectrum daylight and even more vivid colors under actinics.

Currently, I maintain the health and growth of this chalice with the Triton Method. Due to this system’s high macro- and micronutrient consumption, it is necessary to monitor the elements more frequently than I do with my other tanks. With more than 2 degrees of carbonate hardness consumption per day, the system’s chemistry naturally fluctuates. Therefore, I send out a sample for ICP-OES (inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectroscopy) testing every 60 days to assist me in adjusting water chemistry. And every 4 months, a sample is sent to test for nitrogen compounds, dissolved organic carbon, and extended alkalinity (N-DOC) to assist me with nutrient dosing.

In general, Echinophyllia species grow as loosely encrusting colonies and form folds, plates, or cups. Corallites in the middle of the colony are often raised Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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The After Shock chalice sits on the bottom, center-right, of the author's reef.

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within warty bumps. The color of a chalice’s mouth is usually a different color than its fleshy body.

RECOMMENDED PARAMETERS Temperature: 73–79° F Specific Gravity: 1.025 pH: 8.3 Alkalinity: 8 dKH FEEDING The flesh of these corals contains symbiotic algae called zooxanthellae. The algae photosynthesize oxygen and sugars, which are used metabolically by the coral, while the algae feed on the catabolites of the coral (especially phosphorus and nitrogen). This provides chalices between 75 and 95 percent of their nutritional needs. The rest is obtained by trapping plankton and absorbing dissolved organic matter in the water. In my tank, there’s a sufficient amount of both, so I don’t broadcast or target feed my chalices.

LIGHTING I recommend moderate lighting for chalices. Although these corals do well in different lighting intensities, any change in lighting requires the coral to adapt to the new conditions. When introducing a chalice into your tank, place it in an area of medium lighting and allow it to acclimate. This prevents shock to the chalice from the impact of extremely intense lighting.

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Another consideration is that chalices tend to be very consistent in their coloration.

While there will always be a degree of color variability depending on lighting spectrum and nutrients, there is not much to be gained by manipulating the intensity of the light.

WATER FLOW Similarly, a moderate water flow is sufficient for these corals. There just needs to be enough water movement to sweep them free of debris.

TEMPERAMENT Echinophyllia is an aggressive coral genus, and although few species extend their tentacles to any great length, any contact between these chalices and other corals will be aggressive.

They can kill most corals they touch. A little planning and careful coral placement will negate this risk.

If you haven’t tried a chalice coral yet, I highly recommend it. Having an alien-looking, neonglowing coral is sure to impress, and given time, it will grow into a majestic centerpiece! R

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AVATAR REEF OF JAPAN HOSHITSUTSU

I

began my aquarium hobby in Japan nearly 25 years ago. After 10 years on the freshwater side, I decided to try my hand at reefkeeping. The display featured here is my 2-year-old reef inspired by the movie Avatar. When I first saw the movie, I was mesmerized by the beautiful alien world of Pandora. This reef is my homage to that very special film and the wondrous world it portrayed.

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The tank is a Red Sea Reefer 250 with a total system volume of roughly 71 gallons (270 liters). Because the coral availability in Japan pales in comparison to places like the United States and other countries, it took a while for me to stock the display with the corals I wanted. I had to search for my wish-list corals far and wide and have them shipped to me.

UCA Cherry Blossom

Bird's Nest

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Flaming Sunrise Speciosa

SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS Display: Red Sea Reefer 250, 54 gallons Lighting: (3) EcoTech Radion G5, (2) Orphek OR3 (SkyBlue, UV/ Violet) Water Movement: (3) EcoTech Vortech MP40 Skimmer: Maxspect SK400 Calcium Reactor: Reef Octopus CR1000 Algae Reactor: Reef Live SWR-150E

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CDU Dragon Fruit

Cooling: Teco TK-500 chiller Carbon: Red Sea Reef-Spec Carbon MAINTENANCE I use a relatively simple maintenance routine to keep this reef healthy.

I do 10 percent water changes weekly and dose iodine. My goal is to ensure that trace elements are never deficient. I test the water parameters listed below using Red Sea test kits.

OG Bounce Mushroom

HC Acro

Yellow Submarine Favia

UCA Fireworks Acro

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PARAMETERS pH: 8.0 Calcium: 410 ppm Alkalinity: 10.2 dKH Nitrate: 0.04 ppm Phosphate: 0.02 ppm Magnesium: 1500 ppm

building a shallow reef tank that provides easier access. If I could offer one piece of advice, it would be to keep the water quality and parameters consistent. I hope you enjoyed my creation and find it somewhat reminiscent of the wonders of Pandora! R

FEEDING I feed my corals every other day with Red Sea Reef Energy Plus, Vitalis SPS and LPS pellets, Fauna Marin Grow and Color, and Fauna Marin Coral Sprint. My fish are fed twice daily with fresh minced shrimp, clams, and salmon.

FISH • • • •

(7) Lyretail Anthias Sixline Wrasse Mandarin Dragonet Royal Gramma

FAVORITE CORALS • • • •

OG Bounce Mushroom HC Acro Yellow Submarine Favia UCA Fireworks Acro

Due to the depth of this tank, it is quite difficult to reach the bottom and back corners for maintenance. In the future, I look forward to

Blueberry Lemonade

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Canthigaster jactator

FRISKY LITTLE TOBIES SABINE PENISSON Images by author except as noted

T

obies (aka sharpnose pufferfish) from the genus Canthigaster are very endearing. They have lots of personality, they are beautiful, and their movement and facial expressions are unique. However, they have had a reputation of questionable compatibility in home aquariums. But with a few precautions, sharpnose pufferfish can be very pleasing additions, even in a reef aquarium.

Coming from the Tetraodontidae family, the Canthigaster spp. form a fairly homogeneous group of small pufferfish. The genus is divided into 38 distinct species, with Canthigaster aziz being newly classified as a species in August 2020.

The etymology of the genus name comes from the Greek words Kanthiai (and not Kanthos as often misstated), meaning big basket, and Gaster, meaning stomach. Most species measure between 3 and 4 inches as adults, and they are recognizable by their rounded silhouettes, pointed muzzles that end in small beak-like mouths, smooth skin without scales, and prominent eyes.

The fins of Canthigaster are all transparent with the exception of the caudal fin, which is opaque and colored in some species. The fins are discrete and situated in a rather unique way. The dorsal and anal

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fins are symmetrical and located toward the rear of the body, and the pelvic fins are absent. Puffers swim in a characteristic manner, with rapid vibrations of the anal, dorsal, and pectoral fins, while the tail acts as a fixed rudder. However, the tail resumes its role as a powerful thruster when the fish needs to flee quickly.

As in all Tetraodontiformes (tetra, meaning four, and odont meaning tooth), the teeth are fused into four symmetrical plates, forming a beak capable of crushing hard materials such as corals, crustaceans, and mollusk shells. The mouth is protractile and can poke into crevices to extract prey.

Two other important and typical characteristics of this family should be noted. The first is their propensity to inflate themselves in the presence of a predator. This phenomenon is made possible by two valves that allow the fish to engulf and retain a large quantity of water. The swelling is less spectacular than in other Tetraodontidae but remains remarkable nonetheless. Never intentionally cause a pufferfish to inflate, whether in the aquarium or in the wild. Inflation is the result of intense stress, and the fish does this only as a last resort. They sometimes struggle to deflate properly, and this can lead to death. The other notable peculiarity is the presence of tetrodotoxin, a powerful neurotoxin found in their viscera, skin,

Canthigaster margaritata

and gonads. When stressed, tetrodotoxin can be exuded from the skin during inflation. Be conscious of your choice of tank mates and the stability of your water parameters. If your puffer dies, remove it from the aquarium as quickly as possible to avoid poisoning your tank through the release of tetrodotoxin.

The natural diet of Canthigaster spp. includes mollusks (snails and bivalves), crustaceans, polychaete worms, echinoderms, sessile invertebrates (sponges, corals, ascidians, bryozoans, etc.), and plant material (fine algae, but also calcareous algae such as coralline species). Tobies are very fond of grassy and filamentous algae, in which they also find a variety of benthic crustaceans. They appreciate the calmer areas of reefs, such as the back of the reef (which is protected from heavy wave action), the debris areas, the calmer lower drop-offs in front of the reef, as well as estuaries rich in marine plants. They are therefore found from just below the surface in lagoons to more than 200 feet deep.

Many species, including Canthigaster solandri, Canthigaster compressa, and Canthigaster papua, are monogamous and form bonded pairs. Other species, such as Canthigaster valentini and Canthigaster janthinoptera, form small harems with a vast territory. These are dominated by a single male who sequentially visits the separate territories of each female living within his domain. Sexual maturity is reached at around half the adult size of the fish.

The clutches are demersal, but the nest is generally not guarded by the parents.

Many species of tobies have very similar patterns but with distinct distributions. These are classified together in groups or as sister species because one species replaces another geographically.

Canthigaster solandri

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MEET SOME TOBIES Canthigaster valentini (Valentini Puffer) The Valentini Puffer grows to about 4 inches. It is found in the Red Sea, along the African coast as far as South Africa, the Indian Ocean, and the Pacific Ocean as far east as the Tuamotus, as far south as Lord Howe Island in Australia, and as far north as Japan. This fish’s remarkably wide distribution makes it quite common in the hobby. It has a white background with irregular beige dots, beige lines on the top of the head, a yellow caudal fin, and three large black saddles on the back to about the flanks. The eyes are an iridescent and beautiful emerald green.

The filefish Paraluteres prionurus mimics C. valentini almost perfectly and even mixes with the puffers during certain seasonal gatherings.

Canthigaster valentini

Canthigaster solandri

Canthigaster solandri (False-eye Toby) | Canthigaster papua (Papuan Toby) | Canthigaster petersii (Peter's Toby) Within these three species, we find very similar fish that are often mistaken for each other and share a large portion of the tropical seas.

C. solandri is the species under which the fish is generally marketed.

C. solandri is distributed in the central Pacific, from the archipelagos of Oceania to Hawaii. Going west, C. papua takes over in the area encompassing Indonesia, the Philippines, the Australian Great Barrier Reef, and New Caledonia (where C. solandri coexists). As for C. petersii, it is found in the Indian Ocean, from the African coast to Java. Adult size for these three species is less than 4 inches. The base color is brownish red, studded with tiny blue-green dots all over the body and even on the caudal fin (in C. solandri, these dots are often more spaced out but larger). Transverse lines of the same color adorn the forehead between the eyes. On the upper third of the body, thin longitudinal lines of the same color start from the head, are interrupted at the dorsal fin, then resume and extend to the caudal peduncle. A black ocellus adorns the base of the dorsal fin. The caudal fin sometimes has a color variant of orange-yellow, especially in C. petersii. The belly is sometimes well contrasted and allows for a more accurate identification: if it’s brown, it will be C. papua; if it’s white, we are in the presence of C. petersii; and if it’s orange, then C. solandri. But like all animals, there is a diversity of coloration within species.

Canthigaster janthinoptera (Honeycomb Toby)

Canthigaster papua

Canthigaster petersii | Image by Francois Libert

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Visually, this species bridges the gap between the solandri group and the jactator group. The background color is brownish red on the whole of the body, including the belly. The eyes are adorned with a corona of blue-green lines, and the back is studded with fine blue-green dots.

Canthigaster janthinoptera | Image by Elisabeth Morcel

Canthigaster rostrata | Image by Barry Peters

Canthigaster jactator

The sides and belly have larger and sometimes irregular dots, from white to almond green depending on the individual. The caudal fin is translucent. The Honeycomb Toby measures on average 3.5 inches, and its distribution is wide: all of the Indian Ocean, from Africa to the middle of the Pacific (French Polynesia), and in latitude, from southern Japan to Lord Howe Island.

Canthigaster rostrata (Caribbean Sharp-nose Puffer) This toby is present throughout the Caribbean and is quite common in the American market. It’s a medium-sized species, growing up to 4.7 inches. This fish sports a bicolor pattern: chocolate dorsally with a white belly, the latter being speckled with electric-blue pinpoint dots. The species has thin electric-blue lines near the snout and caudal peduncle as well. A broad jet-black line highlights the upper and lower margin of the caudal peduncle and tail.

Canthigaster margaritata (Pearl Toby) This species looks somewhat similar to fish in the solandri group but with marked morphological differences. On the one hand, it is much larger, being the giant of the genus, with some individuals reaching 12 inches. The silhouette is thinner, however. This fish has a contrasting pattern, with a belly most often of a pure and immaculate white and the rest of the body taking up the colors of the solandri group. C. margaritata is present in the Red Sea, on the African coast up to Mozambique, and up to Sri Lanka in the east.

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Canthigaster punctatissima

Canthigaster jactator (Hawaiian White-spotted Toby) This species is endemic to Hawaii and is one of the smaller members of the genus, growing to about 3.1 inches. It has a light reddishbrown color punctuated with large white spots that are sometimes quite irregular. A twin species, Canthigaster punctatissima (Spotted Sharpnosed Toby), is confined to the waters of the Eastern Pacific, from the Galápagos Islands to Mexico and Panama.

SMALL PUFFERS IN CAPTIVITY Now that you know a little more about these pretty fish, you may want to acquire one for your aquarium. The good news is they can be kept in most reef or fish-only systems. In the latter, take

Canthigaster margaritata

care not to put them in the presence of large aggressive fish such as triggerfish or groupers but rather with fish like angels and butterflies.

In reef systems, their compatibility is traditionally controversial, but it is usually possible to make them reef-safe by feeding liberally (twice a day) and with a wide variety of foods, including crustaceans, mollusks, and algae. They also acclimatize very well to pellets (preferably ones with spirulina), so it is easy to leave rations on automatic distribution if you cannot be present.

Fed sparsely or less than twice a day, the tobies are likely to snack on any available food, including sessile invertebrates (small- and large-

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Canthigaster valentini and Canthigaster papua

polyp stony corals, zoanthids, etc.) and detritivores (crustaceans, mollusks, and echinoderms).

Even if fed regularly and generously, tobies will likely attack certain invertebrates such as sabellids (feather dusters) and giant clams.

Similarly, tobies will bite the tube feet of sea urchins and starfish, the leg tips of brittlestars, and snails but often without doing fatal damage. On the other hand, small shrimps such as Thor spp. and Periclimenes spp., as well as the small commensal Trapezia spp. crabs and the Neopetrolisthes spp. porcelain crabs, are likely to be attacked and consumed.

The teeth of pufferfish, which are constantly growing, must be regularly ground down by gnawing on hard materials. This is accomplished by consuming the coralline and grassy algae that are their delight.

The water circulation in the aquarium should be designed to present a very wide, homogeneous flow. Avoid zones of turbulence that may be too stressful for these weak swimmers.

Compatible tank mates include peaceful medium-sized fish that will not stress the puffers. Pay attention during the first days of acclimation, as some small fish like damsels or Cherub Angelfish can be quite aggressive, and large tangs can bully small pufferfish.

Canthigaster spp. are neither shy nor aggressive fish in the aquarium.

They are known to be stressed by cleaner wrasses, which tend to harass them, apparently confusing the small dots of their markings for parasites. Puffers do not like repeated dewormings, which can injure their fragile, scaleless skin.

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Conversely, they may occasionally bite the fins of other fish, especially long filamentous fins, such as the tails of anthias and the long veil fins of Marine Bettas. The evidence is a perfectly rounded notch in the fin of the attacked fish. It is necessary to ensure that this aggressive behavior is not repeated too often. Again, underfeeding is an aggravating factor in this behavior. In these fish, a full belly has a direct correlation to a reduction of undesirable behaviors.

The cohabitation of several tobies is possible in large tanks (250+ gallons). If they are conspecific, it is necessary to obtain a mated pair because, for most species, there is no sexual dimorphism apart from a difference in adult size. Two males of the same species put together in a small space like an aquarium will fight to the death.

If you wish to introduce several Canthigaster of distinct species, care must be taken to choose species that are not similar in color or pattern and to introduce them at the same time to the aquarium.

I personally consider tobies to be an excellent addition to a mature reef aquarium of medium to large volume. Despite their small size, choose a tank of at least 130 gallons to accommodate their territorial instincts. Large coral colonies that can withstand occasional nipping without much detriment would be ideal for their environment. These fish are no worse than the dwarf angelfish of the genus Centropyge for nipping coral. Some overgrazed corals may have to be removed from the tank to guarantee the coral’s survival, but we will forgive this minor demerit of these wonderful fish. Most of the time, once acclimated and well fed, Canthigaster are exemplary aquarium pets.

Their very quirky and charming demeanor and engagement with their keeper gives them the unique appearance and personality of incredibly friendly puppies. R

THE CORAL TREE DAVE NOTTER

Splendid Dottyback (Manonichthys splendens)

I

have always been fascinated by the underwater world, so when I bought my first reef tank in 2014, I was immediately hooked. Admittedly, my first tank was not an overnight success, and it wasn’t until my third tank that I could successfully keep Acropora. But this learning phase was extremely exciting. I was lucky to have a mentor who took all the time required to educate me on the biology of reef tanks.

This reef display is named “The Coral Tree.” The aquascape and the placement of the corals were inspired by the coral bommies you can see in Okinawa, single rocks that stand on white sand and are fully overgrown with corals, like small oases.

SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS Tank: Nyos Opus 300 G2 Volume: 69 gallons Lighting: (2) EcoTech Radion G4 pro XR30 Sump: Royal Exclusiv Dreambox with skimmer, fleece filter, carbon filter Dosing Pumps: Reef Factory Water Movement: (2) EcoTech MP10 I keep a lot of corals in a relatively small space. This is only possible because I keep very few species. In addition, over the last few years, I have repeatedly tested which species can peacefully coexist in close proximity. A lot of clams and macroalgae have also been added to this tank. The upper part of the scape gets a lot of flow and is close to the light, which is perfect for Acropora. On the tank’s shady side are a few Goniopora and Acanthastrea.

The large open area on the left is ideal for Gorgonia. In between are zoanthids, soft corals, Euphyllia, and Homophyllia. The back wall is also overgrown with corals. I can’t view those corals directly, but the fish use them as hiding places. The lower part of the scape has a cave the fish can swim through.

MAINTENANCE I do a 20 percent water change every 2 weeks. Once a month, I send a sample out for ICP-OES (inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectroscopy) testing to monitor the water parameters.

FEEDING AND DOSING The fish are fed daily with plenty of Mysis shrimp, lobster eggs, and krill. I target feed the LPS (large-polyp stony) corals every 2 weeks with pellets and broadcast feed Fauna Marin Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Yellowspotted Scorpionfish (Sebastapistes cyanostigma)

Coral Dust once a week. Easy Reefs Easy SPS Evo is dosed three times daily.

My tank is dosed using the Balling Light Method from Fauna Marin.

Carbonate hardness is dosed hourly, and calcium is dosed three times daily. In addition, Nyos Coral Nectar and Fauna Marin Amin are dosed daily.

Due to the nutrient uptake of the macroalgae, there is no need for chemical control of phosphate or nitrate. I can trim back the macroalgae if these nutrients are too low or let the algae grow in if they’re too high.

Blue Sapphire Damselfish (Chrysiptera springeri)

FISH • • • • • • • • • •

Dunckerocampus dactyliophorus Manonichthys splendens Apogonichthyoides melas Chrysiptera springeri Paracentropogon zonatus (2) Eviota pellucida (2) Pterapogon kauderni (2) Doryrhamphus excisus (2) Synchiropus stellatus (2) Sebastapistes cyanostigma

Bluestripe Pipefish (Doryrhamphus excisus)

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Acropora suharsonoi

BIVALVES • • • •

(1) Malleus malleus (2) Spondylus sp.

(2) Pinna sp. several unknown species

CORALS • • • • • • • •

Turbinaria sp.

Euphyllia sp.

(2) Homophyllia australis (4) Goniopora spp.

(5) Gorgonia spp.

(6) Acanthastrea spp.

(6) assorted soft corals (8) Acropora spp.

OTHER INVERTEBRATES • • • • • • • • • • • •

(2) Stenopus cyanoscelis (2) Lysmata kuekenthali (2) Pylopaguropsis speciosa (2) Cerithium echinatum (3) Mithraculus sculptus (4) Conomurex luhuanus (4) Archaster angulatus (4) feather duster worms (6) Nassarius sp.

(10) Clibanarius tricolor (30) Turbo sp. assorted Zoanthus spp.

Some may find it a bit odd to name tanks, but I think it makes sense to set a clear goal and closely follow a theme. How often do you see tanks that are put together randomly and never achieve a coherent vision? If there is one piece of advice I would share, it would be to develop a concept beforehand and stick to it. This approach has made my tanks more aesthetically cohesive, and I’m confident it will do the same for you. R

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Image by Mike Papish

Atlantic Porites

LEVI PETERSON

C

orals of the genus Porites come in many shapes and colors, and they’re known to be some of the easiest SPS (smallpolyp stony) corals to keep in a home aquarium. Although many of these corals are passed over for their lack of color, there are a few morphs in the hobby that have some pretty awesome colors, such as the Darth Maul Porites and Strawberry Fields

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Porites. These morphs, however, come from the Indo-Pacific and not the Caribbean.

Atlantic Porites are not nearly as common in the hobby as their Pacific cousins and tend to display muted shades of brown, tan, or yellow, although blue and bright green morphs also exist. Since it’s

This Indo-Pacific Porites exhibits vivid colors. | Image by World Wide Corals

illegal to collect Porites from Atlantic reefs, the only way you can add a specimen to your collection is to find one on cultured live rock from southern Florida or acquire one from someone who has propagated a lucky find.

A word of caution: receiving a Porites as a hitchhiker on cultured live rock is not a common occurrence. Moreover, every specimen I have ever received on live rock has had just a couple of corallites. Most cultured rock only sits in the ocean for a couple of years, not giving corals much time to grow. The biggest specimen of Porites I have received on live rock was a little smaller than the size of a penny. That particular coral was a Porites astreoides that ended up growing extremely quickly, doubling in size in only a couple of months.

There are six species of Porites found in the Caribbean. This diverse group contains species that are branching, encrusting, plating, and even scrolling.

Though you may not see many of these corals in reef aquariums, there’s a good chance you’ll spot some if you go snorkeling or scuba diving in the Keys. Let’s review the characteristics of the Atlantic six.

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Porites astreoides | Image by Mike Papish

Porites furcata | Image by Mike Papish

Porites divaricata | Image by Mike Papish

Porites porites | Image by Mike Papish

Porites astreoides

Porites furcata

My first ever SPS coral was a small piece of Mustard Hill coral (Porites astreoides), an encrusting species that arrived as a hitchhiker on some cultured live rock. This coral did well in the upper part of my reef tank where the lighting was quite intense. In the wild, this species is bright yellow and can usually be identified just by its bright color. Porites astreoides can be seen right off shore in just a few feet of water, making it a common sight while snorkeling on the Caribbean reefs.

Porites furcata is another branching species, but it tends to have round, bulbous tips and exceptionally long polyp extension, giving it a furry look. I have only seen this species in the wild a few times, and it's one of my favorites. Some people confuse this species with Porites divaricata. The easiest way to differentiate between the two is to look at the polyp extension. The polyps of Porites furcata usually extend further than those of Porites divaricata.

Porites divaricata Another Porites I acquired as a hitchhiker on live rock is Porites divaricata. This branching species has a brownish base and grows quite fast, in my experience. In just under a year, this specimen has been fragged and redistributed to various parts of my Caribbean tank due to its rapid growth. I have seen Porites divaricata in less than 3 feet of water in the Florida Keys, but it can also be found on deeper reefs in the Caribbean.

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Porites porites Porites porites is yet another branching species and has one of the easiest scientific names to remember. This coral tends to have thicker branches that are not as rounded on the tips as Porites divaricata and Porites furcata. I don't see this species as often as the other two. I have only found three colonies of this coral while exploring the Florida Keys and have never received it on any cultured rock.

Porites colonensis | Image by Nicole Helgason

Porites colonensis Porites colonensis is a unique plating coral. This species is also referred to as the Honeycomb coral. This Porites has rather large corallites that give it a honeycomb look. I have yet to see this species in the Caribbean, as it is not nearly as common as the other five species. From what I have heard over the years, this coral prefers deeper water. It would be a dream come true to see this coral in person one day.

Porites branneri Porites branneri is another unique Porites that I have yet to see in the wild. This species tends to form clumps similar to Porites astreoides. However, it has a rather smooth surface, while Porites astreoides usually has a bumpier appearance. Porites branneri is typically green or bluish purple with a white tint to it and should be pretty easy to identify because its appearance is so different from the other Atlantic Porites species.

CARE REQUIREMENTS Porites can tolerate a wide range of lighting levels. This makes them an easy first SPS coral, especially if you don't have super intense lighting. In my experience, every Porites I've ever kept has been able to tolerate intense lighting really well. They also seem to color up the most under brighter lights. The Porites I keep in the lower levels of my tank also do quite well but just don't seem to color up as vibrantly. Keep that in mind when placing a specimen in your aquarium.

If your Porites is happy and healthy, it can grow fast, so plan ahead for this. I’d recommend giving your specimen plenty of space to grow.

Lastly, Porites can handle a good amount of water movement, but they cannot tolerate the extreme flow that some Acropora species prefer. Avoid placing these corals in areas of the tank where the water flow is strongest.

A HOME FOR CHRISTMAS TREES Porites is one of only a few genera of corals that host Bisma Worms, or as most of us know them, Christmas Tree Worms. From what I

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Porites branneri | Image by Nicole Helgason

have seen, branching Porites can host them, but this isn’t nearly as common as finding them on encrusting colonies. Porites astreoides tend to host more Bisma Worms than any of the other encrusting species in the Caribbean. It is very unlikely that you would ever receive an Atlantic specimen big enough to host Bisma Worms on cultured rock. You can, however, find “worm rocks” from the IndoPacific that have multiple Bisma Worms on a coral colony. Not all of these colonies are Porites species though, as some worms come in on Cyphastrea spp., Montipora spp., and a few others.

CONCLUSION Porites are great corals for beginners and advanced hobbyists alike.

They come in fascinating shapes and colors and can be considered for any type of reef tank. For those of you with patience and luck, perhaps a Caribbean morph will find its way into your tank. For everyone else, the Indo-Pacific Porites are widely available and have great colors. I hope this article broke the ice for some reefkeepers on this underrated genus. And whether it be a Caribbean or an Indo-Pacific specimen, I’m sure you’ll be glad you got one! R Christmas Tree Worms | Nick Hobgood

Fragging for the Future: Scolys NGOC TRAN

Image by Vojce

Images by author except as noted

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The coral is placed right side up on the table saw.

The first cut produces two symmetrical halves.

I

am fortunate to reside near one of the world's natural wonders: the Great Barrier Reef. When I started reefkeeping not too long ago, I was taking a break from the freshwater scene and decided I needed a new challenge. I wanted a more colorful tank and a greater variety of livestock. Immediately, I was drawn to Homophyllia australis (reclassified from Scolymia australis and still commonly referred to as a scoly). The transformation this vibrant coral undergoes when it feeds is so fascinating. This is the one coral I always wanted to keep but couldn’t afford as a university student.

Fortunately, I connected with a local fragger who worked at a wholesaler and had access to damaged corals. He offered me half a dozen scolys that were so severely damaged that the corals' skeletons were exposed through the flesh. Since I had achieved good success growing Micromussa (formerly Acanthastrea) lordhowensis from single heads to small colonies, I decided to take on these scolys and give them a chance for survival. Within 6 months, the damaged scolys were showing significant healing and growth. Puffy flesh and protruding feeding tentacles were also good signs. It was then that I decided to experiment and see if I could successfully frag these beautiful corals.

To make the cuts, I chose a wet tile saw with a 4-inch diamondcoated blade. It is important that the flesh of the coral does not heat up during the cutting process, so constant cooling of the coral and blade is required. To begin, I placed the coral right side up on the table of the tile saw. Then I gently fed the coral into the saw. Like cutting a pizza, I made four passes to create eight

After four cuts, there are eight frags.

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Initially, the frags were glued to smooth tiles.

wedge-shaped frags. Each frag was then glued onto a polished tile. Finally, the scoly frags were placed into the frag tank for recovery. After several days, I ended up remounting the frags onto regular frag plugs as the glue had trouble adhering to the smooth tiles.

Now for the important part: recovery of the frags. It has long been known that nothing good happens fast in this hobby, so let me explain the lengthy technique that I believe has produced successful results in the recovery and growth of these scoly frags.

To nurse the frags back to health, I placed the corals in a dedicated 4-foot, 55-gallon frag tank with about 130 pounds of mature live rock and a protein skimmer. The system rarely receives water changes (once every 6–8 months) and is constantly dosed with calcium and alkalinity using the very well-known Randy's Recipe. Supplemental trace elements (Coral Essentials Trace A, B, and C) are combined with Randy's mix at the recommended dosage. Initially, when the corals are fragged through the mouth, the mouth is damaged and cannot ingest solid food. For the first 6 months, supplementation with Coral Essentials' Amino and Gro are crucial. These are liquid forms of amino acids and vitamins that are easily absorbed by the coral. Two drops each of CE Amino and Gro were dosed daily, with CE Amino dosed during the daylight phase and Gro dosed during the night. Once the frags showed signs of feeding tentacles, solid food was offered in the form of Ocean Nutrition Reef Pulse, a pulverized dry blend of zooplankton and phytoplankton that drives corals mad. The Reef Pulse was broadcast over the corals on a weekly basis. Dosing CE Amino and Gro and feeding dry powdered food is a good way for corals to receive their nutrition.

But all of these additives contribute to poor water quality, which is managed with a Reef Octopus 150INT protein skimmer.

Keeping the water parameters at natural sea levels is the recommended approach. After all, the corals do originate from the ocean. The frag tank maintains the following stable macronutrient parameters: Calcium: 450 ppm Alkalinity: 8.5 dKH Magnesium: 1400 ppm Potassium: 500 ppm Lighting is provided by two Mars Aqua 165-watt LED lights set at 100 percent power for the blue channel and 10 percent power for the white and color channels.

Fragging is a great way to keep the reef hobby sustainable and available for many generations of future reefkeepers. While carving up your expensive scoly may seem daunting and risky, following the method detailed above will put you on the path to success. The keys are excellent water quality in the healing tank and feeding the appropriate foods at the right times. If you can provide both to your scoly frags, I’m confident that you will succeed. R

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This frag has healed and grown back in a circular shape.

Feeding tentacles are visible on this healed frag.

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Image by Luc Viatour

The Magical Mandarin, Synchiropus splendidus JIM ADELBERG

Images by Sabine Penisson except as noted

M

andarins may well be the most fantastical of all marine fish. Their combination of riotous, psychedelic colors and markings with a distinctly unfishlike shape have captivated divers and aquarists alike for decades. More correctly called by their full common name, Mandarin Dragonet, it’s easy to see how these fish earned that appellation. Apparently, someone found this fish’s bright swirls of intense color evocative of Mandarin-period art. And all dragonets simply resemble little dragons!

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Mandarins are native to the Pacific, ranging widely from the Ryukyu Islands south to Australia. With such a large range, they are collected from a number of locations and are readily available in stores.

Mandarins, and dragonets in general, have a specific characteristic that must be considered if you want to keep them successfully: their highly specialized feeding requirements. In the wild, these

fish spend all day hunting small critters that are found on and around the reef substrate. I’ve spent some time watching Mandarins hunt in captivity, and it appears their feeding is triggered by prey movement. In the wild, this prey would likely consist of copepods, amphipods, and benthic juveniles of various other fauna.

Traditionally, providing a consistent live food source has been the biggest hurdle in keeping wild Mandarins. In years past, there was an excruciating protocol recommended to prepare a tank for wild Mandarins: take a 75-gallon (or larger) tank with at least one pound of live rock per gallon, age it for a few months without fish to develop resident pod populations, and finally introduce your fish. It may seem excessive, but Mandarins consume lots of pods, and depletion of natural pod populations in a relatively small tank is almost inevitable. Even this level of preparation was considered supplemental to live brine-shrimp feeding.

Needless to say, people have always tried to train wild Mandarins to take nonliving food but with mixed results. There are many accounts of success, so it certainly is possible with some individuals. But unless you have a good backup pod population, you’re taking a risk. This may seem daunting, but read on because advancements in our young hobby are making some difficult fish like these a little easier to keep.

The reefing hobby has now advanced so far that there are at least two ways to address the challenge of these highly specialized feeders.

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Juvenile Mandarin Dragonets

Juvenile Mandarin Dragonet

The first solution is on the food side. It wasn’t too many years ago when the only options for live-feeding Mandarins at home were brine shrimp (hatched or purchased) or whatever live pods could be grown or collected by the aquarist. The hobby has now progressed to the point where there are many domestic pod and algae farms, and your local store should have various live pods and algae food for them that you can buy. This is a great way to seed different types of pods into your new reef or simply add a supplemental boost to a tank that has a good pod population already. A more dedicated approach is to grow live pods in your home. Growing many of the pod species is as easy as sticking an

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Image by Luc Viatour

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airstone in a bare bucket of salt water, adding pods and food, and occasionally changing some water. I personally culture Apocyclops panamensis, which is as easy as I made it sound.

The second solution involves the fish itself and is a most welcome development. This is the relatively recent advancement of the knowledge and equipment needed to breed these fish in commercial quantities. To prepare for this piece, I spoke to both ORA and Biota, and there should be thousands of captive-bred Mandarin Dragonets in the market this year.

Let’s review why these fish in particular benefit from a captivebreeding program. First, a little context. Mandarins are not rare where they’re found and are categorized as a species of least concern by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) as far as extinction threat goes. But captive-bred Mandarins have a key advantage over wild-caught Mandarins in that they’re mostly weaned off of live food as their mainstay. Most captivebred Mandarins will immediately eat pellets when received at the retail store and in the home aquarium, which most wild-

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caught Mandarins will not. There are also advantages in terms of overall time in the supply chain, stress in that supply chain, and interruptions of feeding in transit. Continuing the comparison, wild Mandarins will often come in at a larger size than the captive-bred specimens but be thinner. Captive-bred fish will likely be more expensive and smaller, but that’s to be expected. Besides, the odds are good that your captive-bred fish will be younger than any wild-caught Mandarin, allowing you to have more time to enjoy your little dragon.

Because Mandarins have magical skin (and what else would you expect?), they have extra resistance to marine ich but seem to have no superpowers to resist lymphocystis. Normally, the diseases and pests encountered in the chain of custody would tilt the balance heavily in favor of the captive-bred fish, but most wild Mandarins seem to come in disease-free in my experience.

Whether you choose a wild or captive-bred Mandarin Dragonet, these quirky little fish are sure to delight anyone viewing your tank.

After all, who can resist a miniature psychedelic dragon? R