Reef Hobbyist Magazine Q4 2021

FOURTH QUARTER 2021 I VOLUME 15

THE ULTIMATE REEF RUGS: MAXI-MINI CARPET ANEMONES

CAPTIVE-BRED

COPPERBAND BUTTERFLIES

FEATURES 6

CAPTIVE - BRED CENTROPYGE FOR YOUR REEF Jim Adelberg is the executive editor for RHM. Get the info you need about the two most commonly available species of captive-bred dwarf angels in the hobby.

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A NO-DOSE NANO Jon Putt has been reefing nonstop since 2007 and is the owner of JRP Aquatics, which focuses on quarantined aquacultured soft and LPS corals. Simplicity is the secret to Jon’s success and can be yours too!

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REEFERS DIVE: COZUMEL Richard Aspinall is a gardener and freelance writer on subjects from travel to scuba diving. See why Cozumel should be on your dive destination list, especially as a reefer.

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A DEDICATION TO DETAILS: CASES’S MIXED REEF Christopher Laurence Cases lives in the Philippines and has been obsessed with corals since 2017.

Through patience and a dedication to details, Christopher has created a lovely nano tank.

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SHALOM’S REEF: A SUCCESS BORN FROM MISTAKES Shalom Toribio, also known as "Aquaman_ Shalom" on Instagram, has been an aquarist for more than 20 years, with 8 years in saltwater aquarium keeping. We all learn from our mistakes, and here Shalom chronicles his mistakes and eventual road to success.

ON THE COVER THE ULTIMATE REEF RUGS: MAXI-MINI CARPET ANEMONES

Gordon Greenley is a professional aquarist at Sea Life Michigan Aquarium and a hobbyist with over 12 years’ experience, specializing in NPS corals and rare invertebrates. You know you want some. See what it’s going to take to keep your future Maxi-minis happy.

Cover image by Jack Servedio

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CAPTIVE BREEDING OF THE COPPERBAND BUTTERFLYFISH Keith Moyle, a UK hobbyist with over 45 years of experience, is the owner of aquatic consultancy Kahuna Reef Motivation. This article details the recent successful breeding of the Copperband Butterflyfish.

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FOURTH QUARTER 2021 | Volume 15

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Captive-bred Coral Beauty | Image by Biota

Captive-Bred

Centropyge

for Your Reef JIM ADELBERG

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Captive-bred Cherub Angelfish juvenile | Image by ORA

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or those of us who have been in the hobby a while, we’ve seen many things change for the better. Technology has certainly moved forward in leaps and bounds, and there are now machines to do almost everything we used to do manually. Our ability to exchange information with our reef-obsessed peers has also increased exponentially over the last few decades, and as our hobby matures, the depth and breadth of hobbyist information continues to expand. But I think there’s been an even more significant advance in the hobby that you may not have noticed if you weren’t paying attention. Behind the scenes, and often without even the fanfare afforded a new skimmer launch, commercial breeders have been adding species after species to what’s available to hobbyists. I won’t bore you with stats, but there are now enough captive-bred fish species regularly available to fully stock an entire reef tank. Not only that, but as the farms have learned to breed these fish efficiently, a lot of them end up at retail prices nearly the same as their wild counterparts.

When CB (captive-bred) Centropyge angels first became available, they were very expensive and the supply was often limited to what an individual hobbyist had produced in a single batch. We’ve come a long way. I was recently chatting with the head of one of the large farms who mentioned he ships thousands of CB Coral Beauties every month!

Captive-bred Centropyge share the same advantages offered by other captive-bred fish.

They are accustomed to living in tanks and have been raised eating aquarium food. Further, they arrive to your tank with a lower chance of having diseases or parasites.

But I think there are two special advantages regarding captive-bred Centropyge angels.

First, dwarf angels of this genus are well known to be hit or miss in their taste for live coral. Any individual fish may or may not nip at coral, and some, which don’t at first, eventually do. There is now a large amount of anecdotal evidence that CB dwarf angels are less likely to do this, though there’s no guarantee. However, as a hobbyist breeder myself, it’s the second advantage that interests me most: these fish should be available at a young enough age that creating bonded pairs (and harems) will be easier. Centropyge are protogynous hermaphrodites, which means they are all born female. After some time, a small number of any batch start to turn into males and grow larger. The next step is sparring among the males and the formation of harems or bonded pairs. The chance to get prebonded individuals is very exciting and may even allow for dwarf angel harems to be established in a home reef!

There have been dozens of different species of Centropyge spawned and raised in captivity, but I’d like to spotlight two that seem the most reliably available.

First is the ubiquitous Coral Beauty (Centropyge bispinosa). This species is slightly on the larger side for the Centropyge genus (4 inches or a bit more). They are known to be Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Juvenile CB Coral Beauties | Image by Biota

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Captive-bred Cherub Angelfish juvenile | Image by ORA

robust, long-lived in aquariums, and very pretty! This species is consistently available in the market at very reasonable prices.

On the downside, they can be somewhat aggressive and, of course, may nip corals. Their diet in the wild is varied but includes algae, detritus, sponges, and copepods. It is important that Coral Beauties have plenty of rockwork to graze on. You can probably meet their other nutritional needs with a combination of meaty frozen foods and sheets of dried seaweed. Unless you’re deliberately trying to breed these angels, the safest bet is to stick to the old guidance of one Coral Beauty per tank. For the ambitious breeders out there, Coral Beauties form social harems in the wild that are reportedly composed of three to seven individuals. As mentioned, these fish can top 4 inches in length, so they’re not a nano fish, and their slightly irascible nature means they’re more aggressive when crowded by other fish. I would recommend you consider these fish for medium- and large-sized reefs and keep their temperament in mind as you decide on your stocking list and sequence.

For those seeking a smaller dwarf angel, the Cherub Angelfish (Centropyge argi) might be the perfect choice. I believe this is the next most available CB Centropyge. That difference in availability means that, while you can expect to be able to purchase a CB Coral Beauty at any time, there may be some gaps in availability for the CB Cherubs. Topping out at about 3 inches, they can easily be kept in nano tanks. However, I’d still recommend at least a 20-gallon display for a single Cherub in a mixed-fish community, mostly to accommodate enough live rock for grazing and shelter.

These smaller dwarf angels consume a similar variety of food as their larger Centropyge cousins, but their size disadvantage makes them far more timid in competing with tankmates for food or territory. Make sure to plan for plenty of small hiding places and consider introducing this fish early in the stocking sequence. In my opinion, this would be the ideal species to attempt a harem tank with. In the wild, these fish form harems of a single mature male, three or four mature females, and a number of immature females.

Beyond these two species, there are a bunch of CB Centropyge that show up sporadically. Flames have sometimes been available, as well as Lemonpeels, Potters, Flamebacks, and more. Regardless of which species of CB Centropyge you end up keeping, let’s take a minute to remember the early pioneers and thank the current breeders who made these great fish available in our hobby. I think we can look forward to a future filled with captive-bred gems.

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A NO-DOSE NANO JON PUTT

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started a nano reef in 2007 after learning on Nano-Reef.com that a reef tank could be set up without a huge tank or huge budget.

My first tank was a 10 gallon with zoas and mushrooms. I’ve been reefing nonstop for 14 years now and have had many tanks in that time.

You could technically say that this tank started in 2016 because, during that time, I set up a 10-gallon nano reef after having moved to a new home. I was downsizing from a larger reef tank. I originally had a number of SPS (small-polyp stony) corals but eventually lost them due to having too much going on in my life. That spurred me to keep things as low maintenance as possible. I added mushrooms, zoanthids, and one LPS (large-polyp stony) coral. Most of the mushrooms and zoas were eventually moved into their own dedicated mushroom and zoa tank, and in March 2019, I set up this current 20-gallon tank and moved the remaining livestock and live rock into it. Keeping with the theme of low maintenance, I added a bunch of hammers and made the decision to focus on LPS and softies.

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Within the first few months, I was forced to change the aquascape (replacing mature live rock with dry rock) because I accidentally broke some of the rock during a water change. This upset the balance of the tank, resulting in dinoflagellates, cyanobacteria, and brown jelly on some of my new hammers. I lost some entire colonies, though some survived.

Eventually, I pulled all the sand out since it was feeding the dinoflagellate bloom, and I knew a bare bottom would be less maintenance. After switching the tank to bare bottom, the dinoflagellates went away.

At this point, I wanted more fish and additional sites for corals, so I started messing with the aquascape again. To avoid dinoflagellates this time, I presoaked the new rock in salt water for a month or so.

With the new aquascape, I made numerous caves for the fish and created different elevations to keep the LPS from stinging the soft corals. Soon after the big aquascape change, I rearranged things once more by moving most of the LPS to the top of the tank so

their stinging tentacles would be even further away from the softies.

Since this final change, I’ve been very satisfied with the tank.

Gear is my least favorite part about the hobby, so brands generally don’t matter to me and are easily forgotten. I don’t endorse one brand over another. You can be successful with pretty much anything in the market right now.

SPECIFICATIONS Display: 24" × 15" × 13" Rock: Fiji, Tonga Lighting: (2) full-spectrum LED puck Circulation: (2) water pump Skimmer: hang-on-back, running part time once a week Filter Media: Poly-Filter, carbon MAINTENANCE Water changes happen maybe once a month with Reef Crystals salt mix, usually a 50 percent change but sometimes up to 100 percent. I do no testing because I use the corals’ health and appearance as indicators. If things ever look off, I do a 100 percent water change. Since I do no testing, I do no dosing. The 100 percent water changes take care of everything.

With a nano tank, it’s easy to have success if you do 100 percent water changes. The more often you do them, the faster your stony corals may grow. Fast growth in a nano tank, however, is not always positive, as a larger coral load will more quickly deplete calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium. Fast growth also means trimming more frequently to prevent coral growth from choking out the system.

Homophyllia australis

I feed frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, and chopped-up fish every day.

FISH • Rolland’s Damsel • Yellowtail Damsel • Talbot’s Damsel • Black Ice Clownfish • Purple Firefish • Spotted Mandarin Dragonet • (2) Greenbanded Gobies SOFT CORALS • Aussie toadstool (yellow) • Indo toadstool (green) • long-polyp toadstool (green) • Snowflake Toadstool (white polyps) • toadstool (pink with green polyps) • pulsating Sinularia sp. (pink) • ORA Sinularia sp. (neon green) • Sinularia brassica (neon green) • Litophyton sp. (neon green) • Purple Plume Gorgonian Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Gold-tip, green-stem hammer (Fimbriaphyllia paraancora)

• devil’s hand leather (pink) • King Midas Zoas • Scrambled Eggs Zoas • Rasta Zoas LPS • Duncans • hammer (splatter yellow on green) • hammer (gold tip on green)

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Mini scoly, possibly Micromussa sp.

• hammer (green) • hammer (Indo gold/yellow) • hammer (Indo toxic green) • hammer (Aussie yellow/green) • hammer (Aussie blue/white) • frogspawn (pink/purple) • frogspawn (green marbled tip) • mini scoly (green/purple/pink) • mini scoly (green/yellow) • scoly (red)

• Micro Lords (rainbow red) • Micro Lords (blue/lavender) • Micromussa amakusensis (green/purple) • Lobophyllia sp. (red/blue/white/yellow) INVERTEBRATES • Astraea sp. snails • Asterina sp. starfish • Cerithium sp. snails

Purple Firefish (Nemateleotris decora), my favorite fish in the tank

Spotted Mandarin Dragonet (Synchiropus picturatus)

Currently, I’m upgrading the system to a 100-gallon, 48" × 24" × 20" tank. I really need more room for larger coral colonies. The 100 gallon will just be a larger version of this tank but with a bommie-style aquascape. There will also be more of everything: more Scolymia, more hammers, more frogspawn, more soft corals, more fish, etc. For this new tank, I will be using LED pendants with LED strips to help fill any shadows.

My favorite thing about this hobby is growing coral. I love seeing new colors develop on corals. With this nano, my key to success was the 100 percent water changes.

Over the years, I’ve learned that keeping things simple is the best way for me to have long-term success. If you choose corals and fish that fit with your lifestyle and your maintenance style, you will greatly increase your chances of having a healthy, beautiful reef. R

Greenbanded Goby (Tigrigobius multifasciatus)

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A top-down shot

Snowflake Toadstool (Sarcophyton sp.)

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Reefers Dive:

COZUMEL RICHARD ASPINALL

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he Yucatán Peninsula punches well above its weight when it comes to diving opportunities. Some 65 million years ago, a large lump of space debris came to a definitive stop here, marking an explosive end to the age of dinosaurs.

While it takes some rather clever science and satellite images to visualize the entire remains of the Chicxulub crater, divers and explorers can find the impact’s aftereffects in the form of cenotes.

You may have seen images of divers exploring these water-filled caves. The visibility is stunning, as the water has been filtered through the soft limestone of the region. The only sign of the cenotes’ presence from above is the occasional blue hole in the dense jungle. The cenotes are almost entirely freshwater habitats that, when mapped out, form a ring of fractures left over from that ancient impact. Those eons-old structures extend into the marine

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realm as well. If you want to explore these deeply ancient habitats and get a flavor of the second largest barrier reef on the planet, there is no better place than Cozumel.

For me, getting to Cozumel required a flight from London to Mexico City and then a trip on a much smaller plane. I know nothing about planes, but the smaller plane suggested I was going somewhere fairly remote. This was not entirely the case, as I’d find later. As the plane banked and came in to land, I was transfixed by the jungle below me and the frequent glints of sunlight reflected from water in the lush green forest. Descending further, the island’s western coast came into view. A narrow strip of development here includes the main town of San Miguel. The town’s shops and restaurants cater to tourists enjoying the relaxed atmosphere, sun, margaritas,

Spanish Grunts

and diving. As we continued down, I could start to make out individual trees among the canopy and thought about how I’d like to get a look at this forest between my dives.

Cozumel is roughly 30 miles from tip to tip and vaguely teardrop shaped. It sits off the busy Costa Maya, not too far from Cancún and Playa del Carmen to the north. Head due east and you’ll wash up in the Caymans with luck. San Miguel is a bustling town, with all the trappings of tourism. It seems its main reason for existence is to separate visiting cruiseship passengers from their foreign currency. Cruise ships are the main way people visit Cozumel, not via small planes, and these visitors are the mainstay of the island’s economy.

Finding a dive center in Cozumel is easy. There are several, all located within easy reach of the bulk of the island’s dive sites. They are mainly on the sheltered western shore, which borders the Cozumel Channel, the strip of water that separates Cozumel from the mainland.

I was diving with Scuba Du, a firm with a great series of boats and a welcoming dive center with a bar and all the facilities you’d ever need.

I’d not dived in warm water for a few months, so simply being in a 3 mm shorty was a joy, but what I always look forward to most is that first glimpse of the reef and the fish species that call it home. How will it compare with other reefs around the world? My first site in Cozumel was called Palancar Gardens, which makes a great introduction to this area’s diving, with its excellent marine life and generally mild currents. This is a fairly southerly site but easily reached in the sheltered, calm water.

Palancar Gardens mirrors the region’s dry-land geography. Long ridges of limestone running parallel to the coast were covered in sponges, fabulous growths of sea plumes, and other soft marine life. I could make out plenty of overhangs that would offer dramatic aquascapes for photographers looking for fish portraits and macro shots. A Grey Nurse Shark got away before I could get a shot, and the largest parrotfish I can remember passed slowly by. This was a good sign; in many regions where spear fishing is allowed, parrotfish have learned to be wary.

What divers call the big stuff were here in good numbers, and it wasn’t long before I spotted a turtle cruising past. Turtles tend to be somewhat tolerant of divers, sometimes letting us get very close when they’re resting, but this fellow had a busy day planned and quickly headed away.

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Chilling with friends at Palancar Gardens

Waving farewell to this animal, I spotted a pair of large angels and slowly finned over toward them. They were picking algae from the shell of another turtle resting on the reef.

Being more used to diving in the Indo-Pacific, I expected the angelfish pair to disappear very quickly, but not these two.

Pomacanthus arcuatus is a hardy fish and found across the Tropical Western Atlantic, where they feed on a variety of foods from sponges to algae.

The next site was also impressive, with shoals of purple Creole Wrasse and yellow Spanish Grunts. Under the limestone ledges, lobsters were hiding, and amid the tube and barrel sponges, small blue and yellow damselfish flitted about. A closer look revealed arrow crabs and Christmas Tree Worms.

For divers like me, more used to the hard-coral vistas of the IndoPacific and the Red Sea, the Tropical Western Atlantic, with its lower coral diversity, is a real contrast. Everything seems to move— plumes and fronds swaying in the gentle currents—and so much of the reef is seemingly covered in sponges.

Another difference it took a while for my addled brain to note was the abundance of anemones. I’m used to Indo-Pacific anemones, which often are occupied by a range of fish we’re all familiar with.

In Cozumel, the part of my brain trained to link anemones with cute

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portraits of clownfish was redundant. The unoccupied anemones were still lovely, though.

I deemed my first two dives as successes and returned to my hotel for excellent fajitas and a spell of watching a moray hunt in the shallow tidal pools by the bar.

Cozumel offers plenty of easy-going, straightforward dives, where even newly certified novices can feel safe and secure. In fact, Cozumel is an ideal location to gain certification and build your skill level, but it also offers a few more-challenging dives that rely on the region’s “damaged” geography. One such site is the notorious Devil’s Throat.

Just off the northernmost part of Punta Sur sits a huge block of stone riddled with holes akin to Swiss cheese. This was our entrance to a wonderful cave system. After one of those briefings that reminds you diving can be a wee bit dangerous, we entered the “throat” at 25 meters depth. This is not particularly deep in the grand scheme of things, but it is deep enough to require extra caution and the frequent monitoring of dive gauges. This is especially true given the added risk of not having an easy route to the surface (and all that lovely air, convenient rescue organizations, and splendid hyperbaric chambers). The entrance opens into a large foyer full of cave-loving sweepers, and with a clear exit, I wasn’t too concerned. But I was prepared to take extra care dropping down into the cave as I

At around 40 meters, the Devil’s Throat opens into a splendid cavern.

headed deeper again. I could see why it is known as a throat: the reef opened up to swallow me as I dived into its deeper recesses.

Within a minute or two, I emerged out of a wide cavern at just under 40 meters. Here, we posed briefly for photos before we worked our way back through a jumble of broken rocks and deep gullies between colorful pinnacles, each topped with tube sponges and sea plumes.

The next couple of days of diving allowed me to really explore Cozumel’s reef life. Despite the enormous ships berthing daily, there is still much to see, and it really is a location rich with diverse species.

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Anemone sans clownfish

Condylactis anemones make great subjects for a photography technique called close-focus wide-angle photography, which is as straightforward as it sounds. Wide-angle lenses can focus close to a subject as well as capture the reef behind them. While this is fun, it has limited use and isn’t great for capturing the small stuff.

On every dive trip, I badger the guides into telling me which site is going to be best for macro life, as you can’t change camera lenses underwater and it’s not a good idea to do it anywhere else but my hotel room with the kit I use. We settled on a good all-rounder site called Paso del Cedral. With my macro lens fitted, I explored the reef on a good old-fashioned critter hunt.

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Cyphoma sp. (possibly C. gibbosum, the Flamingo Tongue Snail)

A filefish in its resting position

Chaetodon capistratus

Christmas Tree Worm

I quickly settled among the fronds and branches of sea whips and sea fronds and enjoyed watching the filefish station-keeping with their bodies aligned with the growths in which they were sheltering.

I managed to capture a few other species typical of the region, including Chaetodon capistratus, the aptly named Foureye Butterflyfish.

A creature I’d long wanted to photograph is a species many divers are no doubt familiar with: the Flamingo Tongue Snail. I’d never seen this genus (Cyphoma) before and became quite fascinated with it.

What we see of the animal is a fleshy, cowrie-like covering over its shell. These grazing mollusks chomp away on the unpalatable flesh of several genera of softies such as Briareum and Gorgonia.

As I’ve mentioned, the reefs here are covered in soft growth, from barrel sponges to gorgonians, but hard corals are far less common.

Partly, this can be easily explained: there are fewer hard corals in this part of the world. However, in some regions of the Mesoamerican reef, removal of sponge-eating fish and algae-eating urchins, in addition to pollution and disease, have severely impacted hard corals.

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The complex Acropora-rich reefs that I was used to were thousands of miles away, and if I wanted to shoot hard corals here, it would be the encrusting and massive varieties that fish guys like me tend to lump into the loose categories of maze or brain coral.

The future of Cozumel would appear to be one of continuing tourism, despite a recent decline for pandemic reasons. The region’s authorities have made much of the need for green tourism, and I hope the protected nature of the western coast is maintained.

Right now, Cozumel is still a destination that should be on your diving radar.

Flying over the jungle had whetted my appetite for exploring Cozumel’s interior. After meeting up with a tour guide named Sergio, I took a day out, and we headed into the still-wet jungle to explore some old Mayan ruins and look for wildlife. The interior showed the same geography as the reefs: long ridges of limestone just like those underwater. Each was a former reef system, and among the leaf litter, the limestone was full of fossil shells and corals from thousands of years ago. It was a great way to connect the past and the present, though I did spend the entire trip terrified I’d slip on the wet limestone and ruin my camera gear. R

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A Dedication to Details: Cases’s Mixed Reef

CHRISTOPHER LAURENCE CASES

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n July of 2017, I entered the hobby with a 20-gallon tank, an HOB (hang-on-back) filter, an HOB skimmer, and a wavemaker.

I kept two clownfish, a Blue Damsel, a Lawnmower Blenny, an anemone, and a few hammers and torches. I had no issues with my aquarium until summer came, when I started losing the hammers and torches in the heat. I decided to upgrade to a 60-gallon display tank with a 30-gallon sump so I could install a chiller. This tank ran smoothly until AEFW (acro-eating flatworms) found their way into my system. Somehow, even with thorough dipping, a flatworm or egg got through. In April 2020, I decided to reset my tank and salvage any uninfected acros. I dipped all my corals every 7 days for 2 months with Aquaforest Protect Dip. My display tank measures 46" × 18" × 18", and my sump measures 46.5" × 20" × 18". I’m using three Maxspect Ethereal lighting fixtures

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for my display and a full-spectrum, 15-watt grow light for indoor plants in my refugium. The refugium light runs on reverse daylight cycle for nutrient control and to maintain my tank’s pH. I have three filter cups with filter pads that I replace daily; I just rinse and sun-dry the filter pads for reuse. I have a Reef Octopus 150S skimmer, and I also run an aerator in my sump for pH control. I have Maxspect and MarinePure biospheres in my sump for additional nutrient control.

There are two Maxspect Jump Gyre 2K wavemakers and two Jebao RW-4 wavemakers for additional random flow. The return pump is a Maxspect Jump DC 12K. A Hailea ½ HP chiller maintains a temperature of 77–79° F in my system. I have one Aquaforest 110 reactor, which contains AF Zeo Mix, AF Carbon, and AF Phosphate Minus. This keeps my nutrients at desired levels and keeps my water crystal clear and free from contaminants/pollutants. AF Zeo Mix, AF Carbon, and AF Phosphate Minus are replaced every 30 days.

I also use a Jebao dosing pump to administer the Aquaforest Balling Method (Component 1+2+3+), which I have programmed to dose every hour.

Currently, I have a Hawaiian Yellow Tang, a Tailspot Blenny, two clownfish, two Yellow Coris Wrasses, two Pajama Cardinals, and a clam. I feed daily with nori, AF Marine Mix S, AF Liquid Mysis, AF Artemia, and a drop of AF Fish V. I mostly keep SPS (smallpolyp stony) corals, but I also have some NPS (non-photosynthetic) corals, softies, and LPS (large-polyp stony) corals.

PARAMETERS Alkalinity: 7.1–7.8 dKH pH: 8.2–8.35 Calcium: 390–410 ppm Magnesium: 1380–1385 ppm Temperature: 77–79° F Salinity: 35 ppt Iodine: 0.06 ppm Potassium: 380–400 ppm Nitrate: below 5 ppm Phosphate: below .07 ppm MAINTENANCE I do a 10–20 percent water change every week using Aquaforest Reef Salt and Aquaforest Probiotic Reef Salt, which also helps to Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Clownfish hosting in a toadstool leather

Plate coral, micro feather dusters, and assorted zoanthids

keep my nutrients low. I check my alkalinity once or twice a day, and I check my other water parameters weekly before my water change.

TESTING (KITS & DEVICES) Alkalinity: Aquaforest Calcium: Hanna, Aquaforest

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Goniopora sp.

Acropora sp.

Magnesium: Aquaforest Carbonate Hardness: Hanna Nitrate LR (low range): Hanna Phosphorus ULR (ultra-low range): Hanna Iodine: Salifert Potassium: Salifert pH: Apex pH probe Salinity: refractometer Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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I also take an ICP test every 2 months to ensure my home tests are still accurate.

FINAL THOUGHTS

The Maxspect Ethereal LED lights are scheduled to run from 6:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., and my refugium light runs from 6:00 p.m. to 6:00 a.m. The Maxspect fixtures are positioned 8" above the water surface.

Make it a habit to check the appearance of your corals and fish. Early recognition of a problem is important in planning any remedies. Once you notice a change in alkalinity consumption or a change in appearance of your corals or fish, you can easily trace what might have caused the problem and quickly resolve the issue before it gets worse.

Maxspect Light Schedule

A detailed checklist of the maintenance program for your tank is monumentally helpful in terms of tracking, including dosing, feeding, lighting schedule, water tests, equipment maintenance, water change schedules, etc. It’s also useful in determining whether your adjustments have a positive effect on your corals and livestock. And lastly, the most important lesson I’ve learned through my years of reefing is that dedication and patience are the keys to a happy reef tank. R

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S H A LOM’S REEF : A SUCCESS BORN FROM MISTAKES

SHALOM TORIBIO

I

’ve always loved the ocean. Growing up in the Philippines had a huge influence on my passion for the hobby. Specifically, I love clownfish and anemones. They just amaze me and will always have a mystical appeal that transports me back to my youth.

I started my first reef tank more than 20 years ago when I was still in the Philippines. Corals and fish were unbelievably cheap. I didn’t know much about keeping marine aquariums, and sadly, none of my corals lasted more than 6 months. I would just replace them when they died. Unlike today, we did not have access to a world of information in the palms of our hands. We also didn’t have the array of technology and products we now have to help us easily keep a successful reef tank. I had a 20-gallon and a 40-gallon tank with no sump and shoddy lights. I even had a protein skimmer that was powered by an air pump. I finally took these tanks down because I had been traveling a lot and didn’t get to enjoy them as much. Plus, with work and studies, I could not keep up with their maintenance.

Eventually, I moved to the United States permanently.

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Fast-forward to 8 years ago. I had just gotten back from a trip visiting the Philippines after not being able to go for 6 or 7 years.

I had such an amazing time diving and seeing all the beautiful creatures of the reef that I decided to set up a small aquarium with just soft corals and a couple of fish. I started with a 20-gallon tank, and 5 months later, I upgraded to a 35-gallon shallow cube. That’s when my true reefing journey started.

I thought I should do it right this time, so I decided to use a sump with this build. After buying the tank, I purchased an ESHOPPS PF-300 overflow, a filter-sock holder for my DIY 10-gallon sump, a protein skimmer, and a ReefBreeders Photon LED. Over a year later, I upgraded to a 75-gallon tank, another new learning curve for me. Since I’d previously made so many mistakes, I wanted to make sure this tank was set up by the book. With patience, the tank’s cycling went perfectly. But even after more than 8 months, I could not keep any SPS (small-polyp

Colorful biodiversity in a mixed reef

A colorful variety of hammers, torches, and frogspawn

stony) corals. They would all slowly die. I ultimately realized what my mistake was: I kept striving for nutrient levels close to zero, a very noob mistake!

I eventually upgraded to my present tank, a 135-gallon setup. This tank has been running for over 2 years. By following the “leave your tank alone” rule, I am now able to keep SPS. For the most part, the tank is on autopilot, and I have been very happy with it, despite its ups and downs. The most recent setback was a power outage that resulted in the loss of a few large coral colonies and some of my favorite fish. This was all on me since I had not built in any redundancy to safeguard my system from this type of disaster.

Again, lesson learned.

I made many changes to this new tank during the initial setup. The biggest one was the choice to use the ESHOPPS AF-300 sump, which has separate compartments for a skimmer and refugium.

Another huge decision was changing the lighting. I previously had four Kessil A360Xs, which I was very happy with until I upgraded to two Kessil AP9X LED panels. With that upgrade, the growth of my corals improved dramatically. I love that these fixtures’ spread is so good without sacrificing too much PAR, especially since my tank measures 30 inches front to back. I am now able to place corals according to their lighting and flow requirements with no problem.

This is especially tough for mixed-reef systems like mine.

Mixed-reef systems can include many different types of corals, including leather corals, LPS (large-polyp stony) corals, SPS Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Spotted Mandarin Dragonet (Synchiropus picturatus)

Vlamingii Tang (Naso vlamingii)

Aquacultured Acropora sp. on top of Euphyllia spp.

Mummy Eye Chalice

corals, and NPS (non-photosynthetic) corals, each with their own requirements. Having a tank with a large footprint helps tremendously in separating combative corals, which is key to success when keeping a mixed reef. My tank’s dimensions are 48" × 20" × 30". And so far, so good, although I want more NPS corals!

Another thing I want to mention: I love fish! Growing up keeping various freshwater fish fueled my obsession with our piscine friends, and it did not go away even after I started keeping corals. That’s why I have so many fish in my tank. If I could keep more, I would.

The problem with having this many fish is that it means my system has a larger bioload. I don’t hold back on feeding my babies either. I feed Rod’s Food (frozen) every evening, and I target-feed my corals every week with Polyplab Reef-Roids and Reef Nutrition Phyto Feast and Oyster Feast. Having an effective sump and skimmer is very important to me, considering my feeding regimen and fish load.

Among my favorite fish are my Black Storm Clownfish pair named Orca and Shamu. I have had them since I started my 75-gallon tank 3 years ago. They were from the first release of Black Storms from Sea and Reef.

My regular maintenance is very simple. It consists of scraping the glass, emptying the skimmer, and filling the auto top-off reservoir

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every 3 to 4 days. Every 2 weeks, I replace the filter floss in my filter media cup. I trim the chaeto in my refugium every 2 to 3 weeks. Every 4 months, I clean my protein skimmer, pumps, and wavemakers. Lastly, I flush my chiller once a year.

To replenish trace elements, I dose Red Sea Trace Colors A, B, C, and D. For alkalinity and calcium, I dose B-Ionic two-part system, but in the very near future, I plan to transition from two-part dosing to kalkwasser dosing. I use Two Little Fishies PhosBan-L to keep phosphates down. Other than my auto top-off and lighting, dosing is the only automation involved in my system. To make sure I’m dosing correctly, I do water tests using Hanna Checkers every month. But if I notice anything looking off, I test right away. On top of my monthly water testing, I do an ICP test every 3 months using Triton.

SPECIFICATIONS Display: Mode Aquariums 135G Infinity (48" × 30" × 20") Volume: 135 gallons Stand: Mode Aquariums aluminum stand with magnetic panels Lighting: (2) Kessil AP9X Chiller: AquaEuro ¼ HP Apex Salt: Fritz Aquatics RPM Rock: Marco Rocks

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A colorful example of biodiversity in a mixed reef

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Sand: CaribSea Arag-Alive Fiji Pink Wavemaker: (4) AquaIllumination Nero Sump: ESHOPPS AF-300 Alpha-Fuge Protein Skimmer: ESHOPPS S-200, Skim Buddy skimmate reservoir Refugium: ESHOPPS Bio-Lux, chaeto macroalgae Refugium Lighting: Kessil A360X Heater: EHEIM, 100 watts Return Pump: SICCE Syncra SDC 9.0 To all the new hobbyists who might be going through what I went through when I started out, or anyone considering entering this amazing hobby, my hope is to inspire you to keep growing, making mistakes, and learning from them. Some of you have undoubtedly lost fish, corals, and even entire tanks. Remember, at some point, we all make mistakes or bad decisions. As long as we learn from them, we become better aquarists and have better success moving forward. I am thankful for social media, where I am able to share my journey with everyone every day, especially my mistakes and bad decisions. Just look at my experiences and my tank and know that if I can do it, you can do it too! R Dendrophyllia fistula

Social Media: aquaman_shalom (Instagram)

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THE ULTIMATE REEF RUGS: MAXI-MINI CARPET ANEMONES Image by Jack Servedio

GORDON GREENLEY Images by Aqua SD except as noted

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O

ften overlooked, but not to be underestimated, Maxi-mini Anemones (Stichodactyla tapetum) are perhaps the best nano-sized anemones available in the reefing hobby.

These tough and colorful anemones are usually wellbehaved, easy to care for, and even easy to aquaculture. Maxi-mini Anemones will act as hosts to several species of shrimps and crabs (though notably they do not form relationships with clownfish), so you can observe these interesting symbiotic relationships in your home reef. Maxi-mini Anemones should be one of your top options

when it comes to adding color and interest to your large or small coral reef aquarium.

Stichodactyla tapetum is the most widely available and colorful species of small-sized carpet anemones. They are commonly collected from the Philippines and Vietnam, and the maximum size typically listed for this species is 6 inches in diameter. However, most individuals I’ve seen do not grow larger than 4 inches. As close relatives of soft corals, Maxi-mini Anemones have symbiotic Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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It’s important to keep some special considerations in mind before adding an anemone to a reef tank of any size, and it’s no different with Maxi-minis. The most important thing to remember is that, unlike most corals, anemones can and will move around your tank.

This often happens when the tank is still new (less than 6 months post cycle). Any powerheads, pump intakes, and overflows should have guards placed on them to prevent the anemones from being sucked in. Additionally, this habit of moving around means they could sting nearby corals. There are few corals commonly kept in reef aquariums that can stand up to the power of a Maxi-mini Anemone sting. Luckily, most people are not affected by the sting, and the anemones simply feel like strong tape when they contact skin. With this in mind, people who have sensitive skin may wish to wear gloves when handling Maxi-mini Anemones.

Overall, Maxi-minis do not tend to move around as much as other anemones once they find a favorite spot. Try putting them on a rock that is isolated in the sandbed or placing a hairnet over them on a rock while they settle in (right after being acclimated). The hairnet technique is especially useful because it allows the aquarist to turn the pumps back on while the anemones attach to the rockwork over several hours or days. Once the anemones fully attach to their new rock, the hairnet can be removed.

zooxanthellae, which are photosynthetic and provide their host with energy. However, these anemones also need to feed directly on meaty foods.

They are capable of exhibiting almost every color imaginable, including a bright blue fluorescence.

One way to identify a Maxi-mini Anemone is by looking at the foot, which should be light purplepink with orange stripes and spots. In addition, Maxi-mini Anemones typically have a row of longer tentacles around the outer edge of their disks.

This outer rim is commonly green. However, there are some color morphs, such as all blue, that can lack this green rim. Make sure to identify any small anemone species before purchasing because there are similar-looking carpet anemones that can reach up to 36 inches in diameter. Even these large species, such as Stichodactyla haddoni and Stichodactyla gigantea, start out small.

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While Maxi-mini Anemones require light for their zooxanthellae to perform photosynthesis, they are not terribly picky about the amount. Like corals, they can bleach from too much light and brown out from too little, but medium to medium-high light is usually sufficient. It’s important to remember the anemone will respond to poor lighting conditions by moving. An anemone that will not stay attached or seems to be wandering constantly is displaying signs

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of stress. Changes to the lighting, flow, or water quality may be necessary to satisfy the anemone.

Once a new Maxi-mini Anemone settles into a reef tank, it’s time to feed it. Maxi-mini Anemones are carnivorous and enjoy eating almost any meaty frozen food available in the hobby. Favorites include mysis and brine shrimp, krill, sliced silversides or smelt, and

clam or squid chunks. Direct feeding is only necessary two to three times a week, but they will passively feed when the whole tank is broadcast fed.

Maxi-minis can definitely eat an entire fish, but they are not the fishmurdering machines that YouTube and many aquarium forums may lead you to believe. Most fish instinctively know what an anemone

is and will stay away. Even on the off chance that they come too close, a healthy fish should be able to escape. Most of the accounts of “my Maxi-mini Anemone ate my fish” are from hobbyists who did not witness the event and simply found a fish carcass near or in the anemone after the fact. The most likely explanation in those situations is that the fish already had compromised health (visually apparent or not), and the anemone took advantage of this.

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It is also possible for a fish to die from other causes and then end up being eaten as an easy meal after its death. The only type of fish not recommended to be in a tank with any anemone are Syngnathids, which include seahorses and pipefish. These fish move slowly and are much more vulnerable to the grip of an anemone’s tentacles.

A small group of brightly colored Maxi-mini Anemones can make for a striking and unique display in a busy coral reef aquarium. Once settled in, the anemones will nestle closely together, looking like a

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tie-dyed T-shirt draped over the rocks. Sexy Anemone Shrimp and Porcelain Anemone Crabs will form symbiotic relationships with these small anemones and are comforted by the protection the anemones provide. This allows for close observation of these tiny crustaceans as they spend more time out in the open when they feel protected.

Unlike many corals, Maxi-mini Anemones are not known to reproduce asexually in aquariums. There are some reports of Maxi-

mini Anemones spawning sexually in aquariums, but little is known about whether raising the larvae would be possible in captivity and what it might entail. However, these anemones are exceptionally tough compared to many other species and can be propagated manually by any determined aquarist. Maxi-mini Anemones can be cultured by carefully cutting them in half. This is easiest to do by removing them from their rocks, usually by cutting the rock as opposed to trying to separate the anemone from the rock. Then, in a small, clean container of salt water, use a sharp scalpel to gently and cleanly cut the anemone in half. Make sure the cut goes precisely through the center where the mouth is. It is beneficial to then place the cut halves in an antibiotic bath before putting them in

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a confined basket or critter keeper filled with coral rubble. Bacterial infections are fairly common immediately following propagation, so it is unlikely every attempt will be successful.

Maxi-mini Anemones are one of the best options when it comes to adding an anemone to a reef aquarium, especially nano tanks. They are easygoing little anemones that do not require advanced care methods and can be forgiving to newer aquarists or the occasional mistakes we all make. Maxi-minis create inviting habitats for small symbiotic reef invertebrates, adding an additional level of interest and complexity to a coral reef. Do not underestimate them due to their size, as Maxi-mini Anemones truly live up to their name.

R

Image by Brian Gratwicke

CAPTIVE BREEDING OF THE

COPP ERBAND BUT T ERFLYFISH

T

he Copperband Butterflyfish (Chelmon rostratus), also known as the Beaked Coral Fish, is common throughout the Indo-Pacific. Its range includes the Andaman Sea, Ryukyu Islands of Japan, Papua New Guinea, and much of the Great Barrier Reef along the northeastern coast of Australia.

Growing up to 8 inches, territorial adults are only seen singly or in monogamous pairs. They inhabit rocky and coral reefs to depths of 82 feet but are more common at shallower depths. Using their elongated snouts, they can reach into tiny crevices, where they feed on small crustaceans, polychaete worms, Aiptasia anemones, and sometimes coral polyps.

There is no mistaking this species, with its unique appearance and striking coloration that consists of a pearlescent white body, broken by vertical copper or orange stripes. A dramatic false black eyespot outlined in blue and a black band at the base of the caudal

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KEITH MOYLE

fin further enhances its appearance. Males exhibit a small hump on the snout and have a higher-angled slope on the head than females.

An ever-popular fish in the hobby, the Copperband Butterflyfish has challenged even the most experienced hobbyists for years. The fascination with this species is driven by its undeniable beauty and perhaps the challenge it presents for long-term aquarium success.

THE RESEARCH PROGRAM The University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Science (UF/IFAS) Indian River Research and Education Center (IRREC) recently reported the successful captive breeding of this species.

Research funding was provided by Rising Tide Conservation (RTC). This is a significant achievement and a result of the

Copperband Butterflyfish eggs

dedication and hard work of the research team based at the Center. The team, led by Dr. Cortney Ohs, included John Marcellus (aquaculture systems maintenance), Peter Woodward (livefeeds technician), Audrey Beany (biologist), Katie McCord (RTC-funded MS student), and Morgan Bronson (MS student).

In their preliminary research, they were only able to identify one previous report of the captive spawning and larval rearing of the Copperband Butterflyfish. That was in 2016, when Ruensirikul et al. documented success in pairing and spawning the species. The larvae survived for 10 days after hatching.

PREPARATORY WORK Broodstock conditioning began in 2017 with one successful pair, and additional potential broodstock were added in 2018. Once quarantined, the fish were kept in pairs, trios, and groups of four, as there was no sexual dimorphism at the time of acquisition. All broodstock were held in shallow tanks and, for the first few months, were separated by clear dividers so the fish were not in direct contact but could still see each other.

Their behaviors were carefully observed over several months, after which potential pairs were brought together. Behaviors such as frequent side-by-side swimming and leadingfollowing (with no signs of aggression) allowed potential bonded pairs to be identified. Fish that did not bond were separated, and further attempts were made to pair them with other fish. From the initial forming of bonded pairs (at approximately 2 to 2.5 inches in length), broodstock development took around 2 years and led to spawning when the fish reached 4.5 inches.

IRREC now has four bonded pairs of Copperband Butterflyfish. The largest pair spawns regularly, while a second pair is reported as spawning but only producing infertile eggs. It is uncertain whether the remaining two pairs have reached sexual maturity.

SPAWNING AND LARVAL DEVELOPMENT The detailed account of the spawning and larval development is based on the larger bonded pair, which began spawning 2 years after they were first paired. These fish have been consistently spawning for over 12 months. They were kept in a 423-gallon system, and the water temperature was maintained at 77.9° F with a heat pump. The photoperiod consisted of 14 hours of direct light, including a 3-hour sunrise and sunset simulation using artificial lighting. Additionally, the salinity was recorded at 34 ppt. These were the prevailing conditions at the time of the first reported spawning.

During the period between August 2020 and April 2021, this pair spawned 25 times, with between 180 and 55,000 eggs produced at each spawn. It is reported that 19 of the 25 spawns consisted entirely of unfertilized eggs, with the remaining 6 spawns producing some fertilized eggs. The fertilization rate was 0.12 to 85.2 percent. Estimates of quantities of fertilized and unfertilized eggs were obtained by using a dissecting microscope and counting volumetric samples in triplicate.

Every morning, following collection using upwelling egg collectors, the eggs were removed and kept in aerated 1-liter containers. Once collected and rehoused in the holding containers, some of the fertilized eggs would show proper embryo development by late Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Larvae culture tanks

afternoon. This was significant, as it suggested that, unlike most other fish species breeding in the laboratory (which spawn at sunset), the Copperbands had either spawned at dawn or their embryos developed more slowly than other fish species on the first day. However, the research team now believes the Copperband, like the Milletseed Butterflyfish (Chaetodon miliaris), spawns at first light, and their eggs have the standard embryo development stage of 18 to 24 hours.

Initially, while the eggs were observed to have been fertilized, the embryos failed to develop properly. This improper development has also been observed with other butterflyfish species studied at the research center. Cell division was occurring, but at around 32 to 64 cell stages, development stopped, though the reason was unknown. It was also noted these eggs had what looked like a flower petal in them. These improperly developed eggs were collected and placed in a bucket of aerated clean water. Though no further development was observed, some eggs were found to sink while others floated to the surface.

Following numerous spawns with improper embryo development and a review of water quality after each spawn, large water changes were performed in an attempt to resolve the issue. Of all the water parameters tested, the only one found to be out of range was nitrate, at over 160 mg/L. Water changes were then scheduled a day or two before each anticipated spawning. To avoid the stress of catching and removing the fish from the tank, only 95 percent of the system volume was replaced. This allowed the pair to remain in the residual water while the change was performed. The discarded water was replenished with new, sterile Atlantic Ocean seawater with a salinity of 34 ppt and a temperature of 77° F, ultimately reducing the system nitrate levels to 10 mg/L. This approach had the desired effect, as fertilized eggs with proper embryo development were produced in the first spawning after the water change. Though the reason why the water change enabled proper embryo development to take place isn’t fully understood, it is thought that either the high nitrate or perhaps a high or low level of another ion influenced development.

Over the weekend of February 27, 2021, this pair of bonded fish spawned twice, producing over 78,000 eggs. The first batch of 55,186 had a relatively low fertilization rate of 3.98 percent, but the second batch of 22,880 eggs had a higher rate at 32.25 percent fertilized.

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Larva 1 day post hatch

13 days post hatch

19 days post hatch

32 days post hatch

The hatch rate was estimated at around 10 percent, equating to 957 larvae in total from both hatches. Newly hatched Copperband larvae are small, similar in size to those of the Pacific Blue Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus) and described as fast, strong swimmers.

Fiberglass tanks with a white base and black walls were used to house the larvae. Each of the 7.6-gallon tanks were part of the larger larval recirculating rearing system used within the facility. Room temperature control maintained the water temperature between 77 and 79° F. Newly hatched larvae were 2 mm long and had a yolk sac. There was no mouth, and though eyes were present, they were not pigmented, suggesting they may not have been functional at this stage. By the third day post hatch (3 DPH), they had increased in size to 2.4 mm, with less than 50 percent showing mouthpart development. Swim bladder inflation occurred at 8 DPH. Between 8 and 30 DPH, the larvae reached the tholichthys stage. This stage of post larval development is found in Chaetodontidae and Scatophagidae and characterized by large, bony plates extending onto the body from the head, which is encased in bony armor and often has silvery coloration. At this stage, the Copperband larvae have helmet-like head plates with two peaks, long operculum spikes, a small mouth, a round caudal fin, and a dorsal fin that is short at the front and taller further toward the tail. The tholichthys plates are lost during the juvenile stage. They also have noticeably short but deep bodies when compared to other species of marine fish larvae.

The flexion stage was reached at approximately 20 DPH, which marks the midpoint in larval development. The posterior end of the vertebral column starts to bend upward in preparation for the development of the caudal fin, and fin rays start to appear.

Changes in coloration were observed at 51 DPH, with black diffuse vertical bands and the black eyespot visible on some of the larvae. By day 53, a partial copper ring was forming around the eyespot, and the black bands were highly visible. The eyespot was completely encircled with the copper ring at 57 DPH, and the copper ring could be clearly seen within the black bands on the front half of the fish toward the head.

It was difficult to establish precisely when settlement occurred, though it was believed to be at around 60 DPH. At this stage, the larvae were only coming to the surface to feed on Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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53 days post hatch

57 days post hatch

62 days post hatch

adult copepods and deemed to be benthically oriented and ready to start their lives in the rearing tanks.

FEEDING Daily feedings were provided throughout the larval rearing stage.

Live Tisochrysis lutea algae was introduced into the tanks before the lights were turned on, at a rate of 200 to 300,000 cells/mL. T. lutea is a marine flagellate with a global distribution and is one of the most commonly used microalgae as a natural food in aquaculture.

Moderate aeration was provided with small air stones along the sides of the tanks, and lighting with fluorescent tubes provided surface illumination at 750 lux. During the 14-hour photoperiod, the flow-through water was turned off, and the tanks were left stagnant other than aeration. In an attempt to remove uneaten copepods, water was flushed through the system continuously throughout the hours of darkness. For the first 7 DPH, the screen mesh size on the drains was 150 microns, increasing on day 8 to 300 microns, and finally 500 microns on day 30.

Feeding commenced at 3 DPH and continued according to the following schedule: 3 DPH: first day of feeding, 5 mL of parvo and rotifers once daily 4 DPH: fed the same, once daily 5 DPH: fed the same, twice daily 6–8 DPH: fed 10 mL twice daily for both parvo and rotifers 9–16 DPH: continued with same feeding rates

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17–26 DPH: fed 10 mL in morning and 10–17 mL in afternoon 27–36 DPH: fed 15 mL twice daily 37 DPH: fed 15 mL in morning and adult copepods 38–41 DPH: fed 15 mL twice daily and adult copepods 42–50 DPH: fed 15 mL in morning, 10 mL in afternoon, and adult copepods maintained THE PROJECT PARTNERS Without the efforts, endeavors, and skills of the assembled project team, together with the necessary funding to facilitate the work, this achievement would not have been possible. It’s therefore appropriate to recognize the importance of the partner organizations’ roles in this project.

RISING TIDE CONSERVATION The organization provides funding for marine fish aquaculture research, as well as supporting aquaculture researchers and aquarists by funding graduates and professional development within the aquarium industry. They believe aquaculture can provide a sustainable source of aquarium fish, reducing the impact of wild collection on fish populations and their habitats. They only partner with research organizations that maintain facilities dedicated to the highest standards of husbandry practices. Their work is both intricate and time consuming, an example being their success in captive breeding the Pacific Blue Tang. It took over 6 years to achieve that goal in 2016, following collaboration with other

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to the creation of the 26.5-acre site. It consists of four 0.25-acre lined ponds, a new aquarium greenhouse, and a hatchery building, as well as a water treatment system. The facility’s work centers around identifying aquatic organisms with aquaculture potential, conducting research to define how to commercially produce them, and improving production methods of organisms currently cultured by increasing efficiency and profit potential. One of the key areas covered is the identification of culture methods for marine fish species, which includes broodstock reproduction, optimum culture parameters, and feeding regimens for all stages of development up to market-sized fish.

(Top) Dr. Cortney Ohs, John Marcellus, Peter Woodward (Bottom) Audrey Beany, Katie McCord, Morgan Bronson

research facilities. Sharing their findings freely, they help make aquaculture more accessible without the usual financial obstacles.

THE UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA INSTITUTE OF FOOD AND AGRICULTURAL SCIENCE (UF/IFAS) INDIAN RIVER RESEARCH AND EDUCATION CENTER (IRREC) UF/IFAS has 14 research centers. The IRREC is based in Fort Pierce, Florida, where work originally began in 1947 in a small laboratory with one scientist. It is now internationally renowned for its cutting-edge research with a wide range of programs.

Aquaculture is only one of its many programs.

Dr. Cortney Ohs (who led the Copperband breeding program) developed both the facility and associated programs that led

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FINAL THOUGHTS The most recent list of captive-bred species published in 2019 contained 398 entries and will no doubt exceed 400 once updated (delayed since December 2020). This was an increase of 59 from the 2018 list. Of the total, 131 were declared as available and only 46 commonly available.

Aquacultured butterflyfish are very rare (only six species are on the 2019 list), and this successful breeding program represents an incredible achievement and another milestone for the aquarium hobby.

The availability of captive-bred Copperbands will probably be limited, and any entering the trade will initially be in high demand and command high prices. It’s likely these will be seen first in the American market before reaching Europe and the UK 9 to 12 months after first becoming available. Captive-bred fish generally arrive parasite-free and acclimated to aquarium foods, and considering these are two of the biggest issues with wild Copperbands, this is a huge step in the right direction! R

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