Reef Hobbyist Magazine Q3 2022

THIRD QUARTER 2022 I VOLUME 16

ECOSYSTEMFOCUSED AQUARIUMS

The Earmuff Wrasse Multibarred Angelfish

FEATURES 6

HALICHOERES MELASMAPOMUS: THE EARMUFF WRASSE Tamara Blanchard has been an aquarist since 1995 and is a writer on wrasse-related topics. Join Tamara for a detailed look at this intelligent and captivating fish.

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A BRAZILIAN VISION Roberto Denadai has been reefing for 22 years in Brazil and works as a professional stock trader. This 80-gallon reef focuses on a low fish load and careful coral placement to achieve aesthetic harmony.

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ON THE COVER ECOSYSTEM - FOCUSED AQUARIUMS

Filip Lazar is a marine biology enthusiast from Romania. Ecosystemfocused aquariums are among the most challenging tanks to construct and stock. Learn what considerations are key to creating one of these tanks.

Cover image by Sabine Penisson

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LAVAREDA REEF REVISITED André Lavareda is from Caldas da Rainha, Portugal, and believes simplicity is the key to reefing success. Using only basic equipment, André has created a mature and stunning home reef.

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THE CHALLENGE OF MULTIBARRED ANGELFISH Herry Ludywidjaja is from Jakarta, Indonesia, and has been in the reefing hobby for 10 years.

Multibarred Angelfish are very challenging to keep, but Herry has some initial success to share here.

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PRIMER TO PLUMBING Adam Mullins is a co-owner of The Mystic Reef in Riverside, California. Understanding the basics of aquarium plumbing is critical to designing and constructing a system that is efficient and easy to maintain.

Adam reviews various plumbing options and fittings here.

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FRAGGING GORGONIANS WITH LEVI PETERSON Levi Peterson is a 19-year-old hobbyist who is very passionate about oddball marine life. This step-by-step guide will show you how to successfully frag gorgonians in captivity.

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SMIDDY'S REEF Ryan Smith started in the aquarium hobby at age 7 and is currently keeping a large SPS reef in Colorado. Large reef systems often face difficult maintenance challenges. See what Ryan has done to make this 360-gallon beauty manageable.

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THIRD QUARTER 2022 | Volume 16 © 2022 Reef Hobbyist Magazine. All rights reserved.

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Halichoeres melasmapomus: THE EARMUFF WRASSE TAMARA BLANCHARD

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rasses are undoubtedly a favorite among hobbyists, with some of the most popular aquarium species belonging to the genus Halichoeres. The Halichoeres genus currently contains 82 species and is the largest genus in the wrasse family.

Wrasses in this genus come in a myriad of colors, but one of the most unusual is pink. There are three species of Halichoeres that display this rare color: H. pallidus, H. trispilus, and H. melasmapomus. All three are uncommon in the aquarium trade, but H. melasmapomus, aka the Earmuff Wrasse, can be found sporadically, so keep an eye out for this pink gem.

GENERAL INFORMATION H. melasmapomus is a deepwater species found in the Indo-Pacific along steep reef slopes, typically from 100 to almost 200 feet in depth. It gets its common name, Earmuff Wrasse, because it has a large black ear spot rimmed in metallic blue in the preopercular

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region. A similar ocellus is located on the caudal peduncle region parallel to the ear spot. Juveniles are a beautiful shade of blush pink with yellow and blue lines on the face and delicate yellow stripes running horizontally to the caudal peduncle. The fins are primarily yellow. The dorsal has three black ocelli along the bottom edge, and the caudal fin has a red margin. Adult males develop a stunning head pattern of blue and orange stripes. The dorsal and anal fins also develop orange stripes, and the caudal fin turns a deep crimson, edged in blue.

Like all Halichoeres, H. melasmapomus is a protogynous hermaphrodite, which means all fish are born female and later in life can change their sex to male. In the wild, H. melasmapomus forms harems, which consist of a group of females, transitional males, and one dominant terminal male. The transitional males in these groups are essentially males waiting for their opportunity to become the new dominant male. Within a harem, there are no

H. melasmapomus is one of three species of Halichoeres that displays the rare pink color.

bonded or mated relationships; it’s entirely based on hierarchy, the dominance of the terminal male and the submission of the females and transitional males. It is extremely difficult to successfully duplicate a Halichoeres harem in aquariums because females have a tendency to transition to male regardless of the presence of a more dominant male. For this reason, it is highly recommended that only a single specimen of H. melasmapomus be kept in an aquarium.

BEHAVIOR H. melasmapomus is a mild-mannered wrasse and will, in my experience, tolerate most tank mates. It is one of the larger species of Halichoeres, growing to over 9 inches in length.

But despite its large size, this species does not flip coral frags or disturb the rockwork in search of prey, as some other large Halichoeres are known to do.

This is a sand-dwelling wrasse that requires a sandbed of at least 2 inches in depth to sleep in at night and to retreat into if it feels threatened. Small-grained, smooth sand of no more than 3 millimeters in size is ideal to prevent the fish from getting abrasions and subsequent bacterial infections from diving into coarse sand.

It’s not uncommon for a newly introduced H. melasmapomus to dive into the sand and not be seen again for several days. No matter how many days or even weeks go by, you must resist the urge to go digging around in the sand for your wrasse. A wrasse that hides in the sand for a prolonged period is not comfortable in its surroundings and is stressed; disturbing it only intensifies that stress and will make it hide longer. Rest assured that once your wrasse feels comfortable again, it will emerge from the sand on its own. Every wrasse is an individual, so give yours the time it needs to acclimate to its surroundings.

Like all wrasses, H. melasmapomus is a jumper, so a mesh-type tank cover is strongly recommended to prevent your fish from carpet surfing or injury from bouncing off a hard lid.

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DIET H. melasmapomus is not a picky eater. Its natural diet consists of small crustaceans and worms, but it will learn to eat just about anything you offer. A nutritious diet of chopped fresh seafoods, frozen foods, and the occasional pellet food will help your fish live up to 8 years, possibly longer. Because of its natural diet, this species can wreak havoc on certain members of your cleanup crew. As H. melasmapomus gets larger, it will generally eat smaller snails, but in my experience, Trochus spp., Mexican Turbos, and conchs are left alone. Small shrimp and crabs will be bashed against the rockwork to break them into smaller pieces to be devoured. My H. melasmapomus has eaten all my small hermits, Emerald Crabs, and even an anemone crab. Larger shrimp such as Scarlet Skunk Cleaners and Blood Shrimp are typically fine to keep with H. melasmapomus, but even a larger shrimp, when freshly molted, could be seen as a meal. Juveniles spend their days hunting for various pods and coral pests, but as they mature, they spend less time inspecting rocks and corals and more time just cruising around their territory (tank). If you’re looking for a coral pest hunter, this is not the best wrasse for the job. There are several other Halichoeres species better suited for that service.

TANK CONSIDERATIONS H. melasmapomus can grow to over 9 inches, so it requires ample space. At a minimum, your fish should be kept in a 4-foot-long tank of at least 90 gallons. You may find it occasionally pecking around corals and clams, looking for its natural prey. However, any pecking it does is not harmful to the corals or clams. H. melasmapomus is peaceful toward other wrasses but not conspecifics, so only a single specimen should be kept. It gets along well with most tank mates, but because of its peaceful nature, it should not be kept with aggressive fish.

HEALTH Sand-dwelling wrasses are hardy and resistant to common external protozoan parasites, thanks to their thick coats of slime, but they are not immune to them and should still be examined closely for ragged fins, rapid breathing, and spots prior to purchase. Flashing or scratching against objects is a typical symptom of external parasites. However, these behaviors aren’t always indicative of a parasitic infection. H. melasmapomus will flash against the sand to stir it up and hunt the tiny creatures that are uncovered. They will also scratch against objects on occasion because sand-dwelling wrasses just have more itches than other wrasses—itches caused by fine particles of sand being stuck to their scales. Regardless, never assume your new wrasse is free of diseases and parasites. Because of its resistance to parasites, the fish may not show symptoms but could still be carrying Cryptocaryon and Amyloodinium into your system. Therefore, you should quarantine your wrasse prior to adding it. There are several methods of prophylactic quarantine that you can choose from, each with their pros and cons. I’m personally not a fan of exposing my wrasses to copper prophylactically, so I opt not to use it unless my wrasse is showing obvious signs of ich or velvet and would die if I did not intervene. H. melasmapomus is more prone to flukes and internal parasites due to its diet in the wild.

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H. melasmapomus can be kept with other wrasses but not conspecifics.

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H. melasmapomus

Prophylactically treating your H. melasmapomus for flukes and internal parasites is strongly recommended.

A GREAT ADDITION If you’re fortunate enough to find one of these pink gems for sale at your local fish store, you will not be disappointed. H.

H. melasmapomus

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melasmapomus stands out from the crowd of more typical wrasses. It is beautiful and has an easygoing personality that makes for endless hours of entertainment as you watch it interact with its tank mates. I have found keeping H. melasmapomus over the years to be a rewarding and enjoyable experience, and I’m confident that you will too. R

A BRAZILIAN VISION ROBERTO DENADAI

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’ve owned a lot of saltwater tanks over the years and experimented with a lot of different setups. I’ve had tanks with deep sandbeds and tanks with no sandbeds. At various times, I’ve employed the Balling method, dosed kalkwasser, and run a calcium reactor.

I’ve tried metal halides, T5 fluorescents, and LED lighting. I’ve run tanks with and without a sump and with and without a skimmer.

I’ve tested all types of additives. This history has given me a lot of broad experience, and today, I am sure that the path to a successful reef tank is not as difficult as I once thought.

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The main goal with this tank was to create an SPS (small-polyp stony) coral tank that could also house some LPS (large-polyp stony) corals. To do that, I knew I would need a lot of flow and would have to keep my nutrients in check. I decided to go bare bottom to achieve higher flow with minimal detritus accumulating inside the tank. I also chose to keep only a few fish.

Every coral in this tank started as a frag, and I´m very happy with the results that I’ve gotten after only 30 months.

SPECIFICATIONS Display: 41" × 24" × 19", 80 gallons Glass: 10 mm Sump: 15 gallons with live rock, bottles of sand Media: Seachem Matrix, Sera Siporax Skimmer: Reef Octopus XP-1000SSS Return Pump: Nyos 2700 Flow: Maxspect Gyre, Ecotech Marine MP40, AI Nero 5 Dosing: (3) Kamoer X1 dosing pumps (Alk, Ca, Mg), Aquaforest Balling Lighting: Pacific Sun (8) 39-watt T5s (3 Blue Plus, 2 Coral Plus, 3 Sylvania 15,000K) Auto Top-off: gravity float, 15-gallon container Heater: (2) 100-watt Eheim Cooling: $10 fan Controller: Neptune Apex WATER PARAMETERS Temperature: 77–80° F Specific Gravity: 1.025 pH: 8.1–8.5 Alkalinity: 7–8 dKH Nitrate: 0 ppm Calcium: 400–420 ppm Magnesium: 1,250 ppm Phosphate: 0.00–0.03 ppm FLOW I think flow is one of the most important considerations when creating a reef tank. You must have strong and random flow to avoid dead spots and the accumulation of detritus.

In this tank, I have three kinds of pumps that together generate excellent flow. Having a Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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bare-bottom tank is great because you can adjust the flow for your corals and not worry about blowing sand around.

CALCIUM, ALKALINITY, AND MAGNESIUM I was never a fan of chasing calcium and magnesium values in my tank. I only test for calcium and magnesium once a year. My main concern is alkalinity; I test it once a week and try to keep it around 7–8 dKH. When I started this tank, I only dosed kalkwasser. After 2 months, I added Aquaforest Components 1+2+3 and Tropic Marin CarboCalcium, but now I´m only using Aquaforest Components Strong for the Balling method.

MAINTENANCE Daily: • • • • • •

feed fish check equipment inspect corals and fish clean glass clean skimmer dose Aquaforest products

Weekly: • • • •

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do a water change (5–10 percent) check water level of top-off reservoir test alkalinity clean pumps if dirty

A Kupang Damsel hovers above a variety of colorful corals.

FISH • • • • •

Clarkii Clownfish Yellow Tang (10 years old) Kupang Damsel Neon Dottyback Bristletooth Striped Tang

CORALS • Various SPS and LPS FEEDING I feed the fish twice a day with pellets and flakes, and I feed my corals and dose with an Aquaforest lineup: NP Pro, Pro Bio S, Power Elixir, Life Source, Amino Mix, Vitality, Energy, Build, Phyto Mix, and Liquid Rotifers.

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FINAL THOUGHTS Never expect to have a perfect reef tank because that’s unachievable.

Try to learn as much as you can about the fish and coral species you want to keep so you can build an ecosystem with animals that are completely compatible. Read good books and only take advice from successful aquarists.

Balance is more important than precision. Keep the water quality in line, and provide the right amount of flow and light to your corals.

There is no secret to success, just hard work and knowledge.

This hobby does not have to be complicated; you just need to understand the fundamentals, be patient, and have a lot of passion and dedication.

I would like to thank my great friend João Carlos Basso who taught me a lot when I was starting my first saltwater tank. R Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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ECOSYSTEM-FOCUSED AQUARIUMS FILIP LAZAR Images by Sabine Penisson

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cosystem-focused aquariums are setups that are designed to recreate specific natural habitats. Not only do they provide accurate representations of existing reefs, they also provide the most optimized environments for the various species that inhabit those reefs. These setups differ from biotope systems, in that they attempt to mimic the environmental conditions and species of a specific microhabitat rather than just a general selection of representative plant and animal species from a region. The research required to set up one of these systems will help you gain a much

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deeper appreciation for coral reef environments. Here are a few considerations when planning one of these displays.

First, I would like to point out that in every environment there are very specific variables, and all the animals in that area have evolved to thrive in that environment. For example, a coral reef in the Indian Ocean has different water parameters, light levels, and tidal conditions than the Great Barrier Reef. The most important thing is to do your research. The research that occurs before building an

All the corals on this Egyptian patch reef are adapted to their higher salinity environment.

ecosystem-focused aquarium is vitally important because you can compromise the entire display if you don’t precisely replicate the important variables that make the ecosystem function the way it does.

When building an ecosystem-focused aquarium, the most important variables are the water parameters. The main parameters to consider are water temperature, pH, salinity, and general hardness. Temperature and pH are the most important of the four. Fish are coldblooded, which means they have no metabolic process to regulate their body temperature.

Make sure that you closely monitor the aquarium’s temperature. pH is also very important.

Fish are unable to cope with sudden pH changes, and those changes can also affect other water variables, which in turn impact the fish and invertebrates. For example, a spike in pH encourages the release of metals from rocks. If a lot of metal ions are released, the fish and corals could ultimately die. There is a range of pH that marine animals can tolerate, but pH changes must be very gradual. Another important parameter is salinity, and it can vary a lot based on the ecosystem. For example, lagoon water has a different salinity than the open ocean’s depths. Some studies have shown that salinity can affect fish development and growth, so it is important to regularly monitor this value. The last major water parameter to discuss is general hardness. General hardness is a measurement of the mineral salts Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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JUAN CARLOS PIÑA

This fore reef in Komodo Park, Indonesia, displays a fantastic diversity of coral and fish species.

dissolved in the water (mainly calcium and magnesium). Higherthan-natural values will put extra stress on the fish because the harder the water, the harder it is for the fish to keep extra salts out of their bodies. These are the most important water parameters to look out for.

The next environmental variable that plays a major role in any aquatic ecosystem is light. Lighting is critical for the flora and fauna of your aquarium. Again, it is very important to do your research because light intensity varies between geographies and reef types.

Lagoonal reefs, for example, are more brightly lit than other reef types because the water is relatively shallow. When people build an aquarium, they mostly focus on the fish and corals that they are going to place in that aquarium. But it is important to consider another life form that is absolutely essential to light-loving corals: zooxanthellae. Zooxanthellae are symbiotic algae that live in the tissue of many corals, and both life forms depend on each other for survival. Zooxanthellae provide the corals with oxygen and consume some of their expelled waste, while the corals protect the algae and offer compounds that the algae need for photosynthesis. The reason I mention this here is to emphasize the importance of light (because algae are photosynthetic) to the flora and fauna of the environment.

Without a doubt, lighting can also affect the fish and mollusks that live in your aquarium. Improper lighting can affect a fish’s physiological functions and can also alter its behavior.

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Let's move on to water circulation, another environmental variable that has significant influence on life inside the aquarium. Attention must be paid to the movement of water because all marine ecosystems have very specific water flow. The strength of the water flow must be adjusted to mimic that of the ecosystem you are trying to replicate to optimize the environment for the animals.

For example, lagoonal water flow should be weaker than flow on a fore reef. You might wonder just how water flow can affect aquatic life. Well, there are two major roles that water circulation plays in an aquatic environment. First, it impacts the distribution of food.

Since most corals are sessile, they wait for food to come to them, trapping plankton with their tentacles or polyps. So water circulation influences how fast or slow food circulates in the water and what size food particles will remain in suspension. In addition to moving particles around in the water, circulation also helps corals get rid of metabolic waste.

Water circulation is also important for fish. It is a critical factor in the gas exchange process at the water’s surface. At the gills, carbon dioxide is expelled and exchanged for oxygen. That carbon dioxide is captured in the water until it is exchanged for oxygen at the tank’s surface (or in the filter), and the cycle continues. Improper water circulation can result in an accumulation of carbon dioxide in your tank. This can cause stress or even kill your fish and other life forms.

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This lagoonal reef in Bali, Indonesia, is a high-nutrient, low-flow habitat.

As a result, water circulation is a very important environmental factor that you must carefully replicate.

Obviously, the flora and fauna of any wild reef also impact that ecosystem. In a way, the animals and plants can also be considered environmental variables in any habitat. The first and most important factor when determining which species you are going to keep is whether those species can coexist. Also, you have to consider that there are some species that can coexist in the wild but not in the

aquarium. Examples of animals that don’t play well with other tank mates include predatory fish and octopuses. There is no advice more fitting than to do your research. In combining species, you must make sure that they coexist in perfect harmony. There is absolutely no substitute for careful and conscientious planning.

Reef ecosystems can be found all over the Indo-Pacific and many other areas as well. That is a very large geographic region. As such, one can’t say that it is typical for any reefs to contain this or that particular species of fish, algae, or coral. In general, it is best to pick an ecosystem that has accessible species which can be acquired from your local aquarium stores.

The last environmental variable that I want to cover before moving on to some reef environments is the topography of the seascape in the ecosystem you are trying to replicate. The way the seascape is shaped plays an important role in each ecosystem. For example, a fore reef is somewhat sloped, so you might want to arrange the structure of your reef in a manner similar to that which exists in nature. Since the health of your animals is less dependent on the shape of your seascape, this variable is not nearly as important as those listed above, but you should still try to replicate it to the best of your ability.

Acropora colonies in the outer lagoon zone, Southern Maldives

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There are several main types of reef ecosystems. Among those are lagoon, fore-reef, outer-reef, and patch-reef habitats. They are

Various reef zones | Image by NOAA

Patch reefs are luscious oases found on the sandy or rubble sea floor. This one in Indonesia is approximately 60 feet deep.

all different from each other, and they can be found all across the Indo-Pacific and in other regions as well.

First, we will start with lagoonal reefs. These reefs are usually quite shallow and have relatively calm waters because they are separated from the open ocean by a coral barrier or atoll reef.

Lagoonal reefs are brightly lit due to the fact that the water is so shallow. The water temperature is often approximately equal to the

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Looking up the outer reef slope drop-off in Marsa Alam, Egypt, at 40 to 50 feet in depth

air temperature, usually ranging from 75 to 81 degrees Fahrenheit.

Salinity is approximately 35 ppt in the natural environment, but it is strongly recommended to keep the salinity of reef tanks between 32 and 33 ppt. The sediment of most lagoonal reefs is quite calcareous because it’s made up mainly of organic material. Water movement— except near tidal inlets—is minimal and often happens only at the surface. Although the biodiversity of lagoonal reefs is quite large and varies a lot with geographic range, these reefs are usually home to smaller fish and might contain more soft corals and large-polyp stony (LPS) corals than other types.

Within lagoons or behind barrier reefs are another type of reef habitat called patch reefs, aptly named as these patches are separated from each other by areas of sand.

Continuing out from the lagoon, the next habitat is the reef crest.

This is the area that is often exposed at low tide and is very difficult to reproduce in captivity.

Next is the fore reef. It's the outside part of a reef, seaward of the reef crest and facing the open sea. If you look at the diagram on page 24, you’ll see that it is sloped. The lighting in a fore reef is not as bright as that of lagoonal reefs, but a fore-reef aquarium should still be well lit. Water circulation is stronger on fore reefs because they are exposed to the open sea, so your aquarium must have ample water flow. On fore reefs, you should expect to find more hard corals and larger fish species. Corals here thrive between 74 and 84 degrees Fahrenheit, so try to keep the water temperature somewhere in that range without disregarding the temperature preferences of the fish. Because you may have larger fish in a fore-reef aquarium, it is worthwhile to get a good-sized tank. The fore-reef aquarium is arguably one of the most difficult reef aquarium ecosystems to

replicate, so make sure that you have gathered sufficient knowledge to build such an aquarium.

The next habitat is the outer reef. An outer reef extends up from the ocean floor, not out from the land, but is still associated with the neighboring land. It is home to more hard corals than soft corals, but that coverage depends on the water’s depth and temperature.

You might notice that I haven’t said much about specific fish or coral species. Well, that is because the geographic area in which coral reefs can be found is extremely large. With ecosystem-focused aquariums, you should not try to pinpoint exact species and say, “This is what I want in my aquarium.” Try to pick an area that you want to model your aquarium after, and research the species of fish, corals, plants, etc. that are found there. Attention to detail will help you make the right choices when selecting the livestock for your aquarium.

In conclusion, an ecosystem-focused aquarium is a major investment that should be carefully managed. However, in spite of the difficulties that arise in making such an aquarium, the reward is more than ample for the work and research required. By closely reproducing the environmental variables that make a wild ecosystem function, you will inevitably make your aquarium a better place for your fish and inverts. This approach will benefit the flora and fauna that you keep in your aquarium by providing them with a home optimized to meet their needs. This method also minimizes any stress that might otherwise occur if you mix animals from different geographic areas that are not accustomed to each other. You will gain a much greater appreciation for the complex and interconnected world of coral reef environments, which stand unique among all other ecosystems on Earth. R Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Image by Rickard Zerpe

LAVAREDA REEF Revisited

ANDRÉ LAVAREDA Lavareda Reef, Q1 2021

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Wellsophyllia sp.

I

remember when I first wandered into a store that carried marine fish and coral. I was captivated and rapidly transformed my 20-gallon freshwater tank into a mini-reef. Then came the inevitable progression of upgrades. The 20-gallon system became a 50-gallon system, which became an 80-gallon large-polyp stony (LPS) and soft coral system.

Eventually, I acquired the 160-gallon tank that became my main display, Lavareda Reef.

Throughout my time in the hobby, I’d advocated for an approach that minimized automation in favor of strict maintenance and testing. I know this is not the norm these days, especially for hobbyists with small-polyp stony (SPS) corals. I wondered if my system and approach would support the demands of a densely packed SPS reef without resorting to automation and controllers.

Top-down view, right side, front

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Acanthurus xanthopterus

Ecsenius namiyei (Black Combtooth Blenny)

Ecsenius pictus (White-lined Combtooth Blenny)

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Lavareda Reef is home to a diverse mix of SPS and LPS.

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Various LPS and SPS provide contrasting forms and colors.

Although this tank was originally set up to emphasize a minimalist aesthetic (see my article in RHM Q1 2021), I decided to answer this question by letting the corals grow in until it was a densely packed and mature SPS reef.

SPECIFICATIONS Volume: 160 gallons Display: 67" × 28" × 20" Sump: 28" × 16" × 16" Lighting: (4) 100-watt Nicrew HyperReef LEDs Skimmer: Bubble Magus G5 Water Movement: (2) Mantis Tourbon 200 Return Pump: Resun 2000 PARAMETERS Nitrate: 0 ppm Phosphate: 0 ppm Alkalinity: 7.7 dKH Magnesium: 1,260 ppm Calcium: 410 ppm SUPPLEMENTS, ADDITIVES, AND FOOD (Microbe-Lift) • Balling Basic • NO3PO4

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• • • • • • •

Special Blend TheraP Aqua-Pure Coral Food SPS Coral Food LPS All-In-One Zoo-Plus

FISH • Acanthurus xanthopterus • Cryptocentrus cinctus • (2) Amphiprion ocellaris • Chromis viridis As much as I want to add more corals to Lavareda Reef, there is no more space. In the near future, I plan to upgrade my skimmer to an ATI Power Cone IS200 and replace the sump.

My advice to any beginner is to strive for stability, create a maintenance list and stick to a schedule, do consistent water changes, and always keep calm. By following this advice, I’ve basically gotten Lavareda Reef on cruise control. The system is well balanced, and all the animals are very healthy. I look forward to sharing the next iteration of Lavareda Reef in the near future.

Until then, happy reefing! R

Paracentropyge multifasciata

The Challenge of Multibarred Angelfish

HERRY LUDYWIDJAJA

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he Multibarred Angelfish (Paracentropyge multifasciata) is a dwarf angelfish species of fascinating contradictions. These strikingly patterned fish are rather common throughout their large range and are very hardy and well adapted to their specific habitat yet are uncommon in the aquarium industry.

Let’s start with some basic information on the fish, and then we’ll tackle the difficulties of acquiring and keeping these beautiful animals.

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Multibarred Angels are one of only three species in the Paracentropyge genus. The other two species are the Venusta Angel (P. venusta) and the Peppermint Angel (P. boylei). Both the Venusta and especially the Peppermint Angel are extremely rare in the industry. The Venusta is pretty much limited in range to the Japanese peninsula, and the Peppermint Angel is a deepwater fish limited in range to French Polynesia. Adding to the difficulties of limited range and/or great depth, these fish are cryptic and naturally timid, so the collection process is time consuming and challenging.

Paracentropyge venusta | Image by Fabutahoun

Paracentropyge boylei | Image by Sabine Penisson

As you may have guessed, Venusta Angels are rarely available and very expensive, and Peppermint Angels are virtually unobtainable and fetch prices of tens of thousands of dollars per fish when one is available for purchase. But the Multibarred Angelfish is widely distributed and, according to Fishbase, is found across the Indo-Pacific—from Cocos-Keeling Atoll to the Society Islands, north to the Yaeyama Islands, and south to the Great Barrier Reef. The Multibarred Angel is also found at reasonable depths, so while still cryptic and thus labor intensive, collection of these angels isn’t too challenging. Indeed, when they’re available, the relatively moderate price of a few hundred dollars per fish reflects their abundance throughout a large range and at moderate depths.

Multibarred angels grow to 5 inches in length. They can live in groups (harems) of their own species or groups of other fish with similar temperaments and are not particularly difficult to ship. Maybe you’re asking yourself why these fish continue to be uncommon in the hobby.

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To answer this question, we must consider what the chain of custody is like for most fish. Once caught, fish are almost always kept in large groups of mixed species in bare holding tanks. This unnatural environment favors the boldest and most boisterous individuals within a tank. This is true in terms of social dynamics but even more importantly in terms of feeding. Cryptic and benthic species, which are used to the maze-like complexity of a wild reef, can be very uncomfortable and unwilling to feed (let alone compete for food) in the open water of a bare tank. Unfortunately, the Multibarred Angel is timid, cryptic, and primarily a benthic grazer. This last point brings up the biggest hurdle to keeping this species in captivity: they’re used to a diet composed mainly of what they scrape and pick off mature reef substrate. This likely includes microalgae, sponges, and pods, and they have been known to pick at corals, zoas, and clams. They are very reluctant to switch to foods that are easier for the exporter, wholesaler, or even retailer to provide. I can’t recommend this fish to anyone but an experienced reefer with a very mature tank, but I think it’s important to know that these fish can be trained to take

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regular aquarium food if kept in a mature reef with supplemental benthic grazing opportunities.

I acquired my Multibarred Angel from my local store and have had her for 9 months. Since day one, I fed her with fish roe. She initially didn't want to eat other foods such as pellets, frozen food, and Mysis shrimp. However, I kept trying to mix the fish roe with pellets, starting with small amounts of pellets and gradually increasing the pellet portion versus fish roe. Finally, after 8 months, my persistence paid off. She has been eating mostly pellets for the last month. I also noticed that she's grazing on the live rock a lot. I believe she's nipping at sponges and maybe some small pods as well, hence my suggestion to keep this lovely fish in an established tank only. During the first month, she was shy, hiding inside the rockwork most of the time. However, now that she’s feeling comfortable, she's become the centerpiece of my tank. If you have the time, patience, and a mature reef, this beautiful and engaging fish can be acclimated to live a long and healthy life in captivity. R

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Plumbing a filtration system can be simple with off-the-shelf parts or completely customized like this one by Bashsea. | Image by Bashsea

PRIMER TO PLUMBING ADAM MULLINS

O

ne of the most critical and potentially complex aspects of any reef aquarium setup is the proper design and installation of a filtration system. This typically requires some form of plumbing to route the dirty water to the filter and then return it back to the display. Successful filtration can be achieved with the very simplest plug-and-play canister filters, modest hang-on-back filters, and even in-tank sponge filters. At the other end of the spectrum are intricate, color-coordinated, state-of-the-art systems.

In this article, I’ll review some essential equipment and plumbing components for various applications, as well as the main considerations of each when designing and setting up a new aquarium. I’ll be using the terms “drain” and “return” to refer to plumbing from the tank to the filter and the filter to the tank, respectively.

From what I’ve seen over my 20 years in the hobby, some people enjoy the build process and all its intricacies as much as the finished tank. For others, the details of system and plumbing design can be daunting. Hopefully, through the course of this article, you'll become

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familiar with various important components that are commonly used to build reef filtration systems.

OVERFLOW Reef filtration systems usually consist of a number of components.

First is the filter itself. For reef systems, this is typically a sump tank that is supplied with dirty water from the display via an overflow. The overflow skims the surface layer of water from the display, which is where a lot of surfactant organic molecules end up, so this is some of the most nutrient-rich water in the tank. Keeping the surface water clean also enhances gas exchange, allowing carbon dioxide to be exchanged for oxygen.

Overflow systems range from very simple to massively complex.

Hang-on-back overflows have the advantage of requiring no drilling but are less reliable due to the use of a U-tube siphon, which has a reputation for failure. Presently, what we consider a reef-ready tank will come predrilled with a built-in overflow. Built-in internal overflows with a drilled bulkhead drain hole are the preferred method and

A hang-on-back overflow plumbing design

A built-in overflow plumbing design

offer far fewer points of failure. A single hole still could become clogged (here’s looking at you, turbo snails), so they do require a few additional considerations, such as a screen fitting. Many newer systems include an extra emergency drain hole for this exact reason.

There are a few different styles of overflow boxes. They range from standard toothed designs, which have been proven to exclude all but the smallest of fish and inverts in the display, to beautiful coast-to-coast or single-edge style (think infinity pool edge), which are the best at surface skimming. However, inverts like snails can easily enter these overflows, so additional methods of excluding them might be required. A very interesting space-saving option is the Eclipse Overflow from Eshopps, which is a through-the-tank style overflow requiring drilling, meant for retrofitting bare tanks. These units come equipped with a glass drill bit and template for the DIY savvy. The best feature of this system is that it is one of the most space-efficient in-tank overflows, only protruding a few inches from the back wall of the tank.

PLUMBING There are many approaches to plumbing. For first-timers considering an external filtration system like a sump, soft tubing is the simplest method of plumbing and can be accomplished with minimal tools and effort. More complicated systems tend to be hardplumbed with PVC pipe. These approaches are not mutually exclusive and can often be combined to incorporate the best features of both. There are pros and cons to both, and one consideration that cannot be overstated is the advantage of simplicity. In this world of Murphy’s law (anything that can go wrong, will), fewer points of failure (fittings, drain holes, etc.) are an advantage. For example, it’s often easier to use soft tubing in tight areas than to try to fit a hard pipe section using too many fittings that will ultimately restrict flow.

Every fitting, from elbows and reducers, to unions and check valves, adds back pressure to the system. This ultimately results in back pressure on the return pump and lower flow rates.

Complex plumbing systems can easily reduce flow by one-third or more, and this should be taken into account when choosing the size of a return pump or designing overflow plumbing.

Generally, a good rule of thumb is to create smooth lines using as few fittings as possible and using the largest diameter possible

Exploded view of a true union fitting

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Bulkhead fittings

Union fittings

for the given application. One must also consider the inevitable maintenance that goes along with any aquarium system: pumps and parts will need cleaning and sometimes replacing. A welldesigned system with the correct pieces in the right places will make maintenance easier down the road. For example, use true union fittings for easy disconnections instead of threaded fittings that will need to be unscrewed. Easier maintenance means we’re more likely to do these chores in a timely manner instead of putting them off, and this will ultimately contribute to a more efficient, cleaner, and healthier tank.

FITTINGS AND TECHNIQUES Regardless of whether you choose soft or hard plumbing (or both) for a system, some key fittings are required. When selecting fittings, there are two connection types: slip and threaded, denoting how they’re joined together. Slip fittings slide into each other and are then glued to create a permanent seal. Threaded fittings are screwed together with standardized threads and a thread sealer, such as Teflon tape. Each type has its appropriate applications, and both are often used on the same system. Due to the permanent nature of glue, slip fittings are only single-use, so care should be taken where they are used. Threaded fittings can usually be reused, and I prefer using them whenever possible. This choice is especially important with expensive and/or crucial fittings such as bulkheads,

valves, check valves, unions, and pump/equipment connections.

Slip fittings have the advantage of creating a cleaner look and are able to fit in a smaller space while requiring fewer fittings (e.g., thread adapters). When using slip fittings, I like to use clear PVC glue to enhance the clean aesthetic.

Bulkhead Fittings: One of the cornerstone assemblies of the plumbing system will be the bulkhead fittings used to create watertight seals between the display and filter system, connecting the drain (and possibly return) plumbing through the glass or acrylic of the display. There are a few caveats to consider with bulkheads, with the main one being hole size. A bulkhead sized for 1" plumbing actually requires a larger sized hole to accommodate the threads, often about 1/4" to 1/2" larger depending on brand and size. Thus, it is often recommended to have the necessary bulkheads in hand before drilling any holes to ensure a proper fit or to measure the holes exactly before heading to the LFS to purchase bulkheads.

Believe it or not, the flow rate of the entire system will be dictated by the overflow’s bulkhead size. It doesn’t matter how large an overflow box is if all the water is trying to force its way through an undersized drain hole. The draining ability of a bulkhead is directly related to its size but also to the height of the water above it and whether it is mounted vertically or horizontally. There are some excellent calculators online to help estimate flow rates when designing a custom setup.

True union valves

Barb Fittings: These ribbed fittings allow for the connection of soft tubing/drain lines to a hard contact point, such as overflows, bulkheads, check valves, and pumps. Barb fittings come in all standard sizes and angle combinations to suit your needs, such as reducers (going from 1" to 3/4", for instance) or angled barb fittings that can make all the difference in tight areas, like behind tanks.

Gooseneck Fittings: These U-shaped fittings are designed to hang over the edge of the display tank and return water from the filter.

They are used when there are no predrilled holes in a tank, often in conjunction with a hang-on-back overflow or canister filter system.

This is one of the easiest ways to plumb a return line and does offer somewhat directional flow via the connected flare nozzle.

Unions and Union Valves: Unions are key joints that allow for the easy disconnection of plumbing parts and are crucial in hardplumbed systems where equipment such as pumps or reactors may need to be disconnected for servicing or replacement.

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Loc-Line

Typically, the best option in such scenarios is what’s referred to as a union valve or true union valve, where there is a shut-off valve between two union fittings. This allows the line to be closed and the union disconnected. This is especially crucial in under-tank areas where you want to prevent back siphoning and draining of system water. I’ve installed systems without them in the past, and it typically requires draining or capping the system to service the necessary components.

Check Valves: A check valve allows water flow in one direction only, preventing back flow when the pump is shut off. These valves are typically only needed on return lines to prevent the display tank water from siphoning back and potentially overflowing the sump in the event of pump failure, power outage, or just routine maintenance.

There are numerous styles of check valves, including some operated by springs. However, these will create extra back pressure on the pump, further reducing flow. Aquarium-specific check valves use a small flapper that doesn’t impact flow as much. Clear valves are preferred, allowing visual inspection of the check valve to monitor for correct functioning. I know many aquarists who have come home to a flooded house due to reliance on a faulty, old, or clogged check valve and a power outage. It always happens when you’re out of town—Murphy’s law.

Loc-Lines: These are ball-jointed fittings that allow you to direct the flow within the aquarium using various nozzles. They are typically only used on the return line in the tank or on closed-loop flow systems.

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Colored pipe

Plastic Hose Clamps: Flexible tubing should be fastened to the barb fitting using a hose clamp to keep the connection tight and prevent leaks. The most appropriate for aquariums are plastic clamps, which come in all standard sizes. It’s critical to use plastic clamps instead of metal clamps to avoid failure over time and to prevent rust from seeping into the system.

Screens: Various screen fittings are available to help prevent livestock or debris from entering a line and clogging it or damaging a pump. These will invariably impede flow to some degree, so care should be taken in their placement and use.

Colored Pipe: One of the more recent trends in plumbing has been the incorporation of colored PVC pipe. The practical application could be to differentiate flow loops (e.g., drain, return, closed-loop circulation, reactor line), but it mainly serves the aesthetic purpose of adding a custom look.

Manifolds: A manifold is a section of pipe that has built-in ports and branches in it designed to distribute water. Manifolds are often used in the case of closed-loop flow systems or to add taps for reactors or other equipment (UV sterilizers, skimmers, etc.) to the system.

I typically recommend running a manifold with its own dedicated pump instead of tapping off the main pump to reduce head-loss variability on the main return line. In my experience, manifolds are often overly complicated and intrusive for the benefits they provide.

Closed Loop: This is a plumbing loop, often separate from the filter line, for the sole purpose of providing in-tank circulation and

Plastic hose clamps

removing unsightly powerheads from the display. This would be considered an advanced plumbing technique and often requires drilling multiple holes in the tank, creating more potential for leaks. This is one of the main reasons for the decline in closed-loop popularity. With many options of efficient, directional, and variable in-tank flow, they are typically not recommended anymore.

Screen fittings

As you can see, there are many choices and considerations when it comes to plumbing a system. A knowledgeable local fish store (LFS) that can help you determine the correct setup for your needs is often the easiest place to find many of these parts, as well as to be coached on their uses and functions.

Most local hardware or big box stores do not carry bulkheads, barb fittings, unions, union valves, or low-pressure check valves. Even aquarium-specific soft tubing is more specialized than what you will find at the local Home Depot.

I hope this brief article demystifies some of these principles and helps make your next plumbing venture a success! R

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FRAGGING GORGONIANS with Levi Peterson

G

orgonians have been a primary focus for me since I entered this hobby. In fact, one of my first corals ever was a Caribbean flat-bladed gorgonian (Pterogorgia guadalupensis). My second time visiting the Florida Keys to see my good friends, Tyler Johnson and Jim Hart, I fell in love with gorgonians. Since then, I've kept practically any species of gorgonian I could get my hands on. In this article, I am going to share my strategy for fragging these interesting corals.

Gorgonian in Kapoposang Island | Image by Lagogawa

Carefully prune the selected branches.

Fragging gorgonians is simple and takes just a few easy steps. First, set up a temporary fragging station on a table. Then, gather the supplies you’ll need. This includes some type of reef-safe glue (I use CorAffixPro from Two Little Fishies), bone cutters, and some gorgready frag plugs. What I mean by gorg-ready is that the frag plugs must have a hole drilled in the center of the plug. This makes the work easier, as you will not have to worry about balancing the stem of the gorgonian on the plug or making a mess with the glue. I would also recommend having a small portable frag rack handy to keep everything nice and neat during the process.

Once your frag station is ready, select your specimen.

Leave the whole colony attached to its holdfast in the aquarium. Use bone cutters, just like those you would use for fragging other branching corals such as Acropora, to prune branches from the colony. Some people use scissors to cut gorgonians, but in my experience, bone cutters make a much cleaner cut. As you cut, don’t forget that some gorgonians, such as Leptogorgia spp., tend to be a bit more delicate, so strive to use a gentle touch.

After you make your cuts, bring the cut branches to the workstation. I recommend having a small container of tank water available to hold the fragments while you're preparing them for the frag plugs. If your specimen is slippery or slimy, you can wear gloves to help you grip the frag better.

Grip the gorg, grab the bone cutters, and pinch a small amount of flesh off the very bottom of the stem. Make sure not to cut all the way through, as you will want a small piece of the gorg’s skeleton exposed at the bottom of the fragment. This process is like stripping insulation off electrical wire.

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This freshly cut frag is ready to be stripped.

Strip the bottom end down to the skeleton.

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With a piece of the gorgonian flesh removed, apply a small amount of coral glue to the exposed skeleton.

After the coral glue is applied, insert the exposed skeleton into the hole in the frag plug. I do not recommend adding glue to the plug because the glue will start to bubble from the air left in the frag plug once it’s put back into the aquarium. The best way to prevent these air bubbles is to apply the glue directly to the frag’s skeleton. This method will also keep the glue from getting on the flesh. Too much glue on the flesh can cause it to rot away, so try to be as steady as possible while applying the glue to the skeleton.

Once you finish this process, place the frags back into your system and wait for them to heal. Some gorgs, such as Pseudoplexaura spp., should heal quickly. Others, such as most non-photosynthetic gorgonians, can take a month or more to start encrusting the plug. The specific gorg I fragged for this article is a fast-growing Pseudoplexaura sp. from the Gulf of Mexico. This type of gorgonian heals fairly quickly, generally within a week or two.

Apply glue only to the exposed skeleton.

Now, it’s your turn. Once you acquire a gorgonian of your own, you’ll be ready to try your hand at fragging it! R Gorgonians heal quickly.

Insert the frag into the plug hole.

These frags are ready for the tank.

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SMIDDY’S REEF RYAN SMITH

M

y passion for reefing began when I was very young. After watching my uncle keep his saltwater fish tank for as long as I can remember, I started my first aquarium at age 13, managing to take only a one-year hiatus from the hobby during my college years. I’ve moved around a lot as my personal and young professional life developed, and each new place provided an opportunity to learn and adjust my philosophy of reefing. The system I have today is centered around several key principles: design filtration systems with ease of maintenance in mind, install only essential equipment, continually monitor key parameters, and be wary of constant change, as the risk often outweighs the reward.

When my wife and I moved to Colorado 3 years ago, we planned to stay long term. I got excited at the prospect of buying our first home for one key reason: the freedom it would give me to build a custom system. We shopped for our house with a hefty requirement: it had

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to have the perfect place to put a big tank. Long story short, we bought a home with an unfinished walkout basement and finished it around my aquarium and fish room needs. Long months of raising walls, custom plumbing and electrical work, and painting culminated in the day I’d been waiting for: the arrival of a 360-gallon peninsula tank, custom built by Trenton Smith of Crystal Dynamic Aquariums.

We put it in the middle of the new basement close to our whiskey bar to take full advantage of the 8-inch bar rail installed around all three viewing panels.

The goal of this build was to create a reef that focused on SPS (small-polyp stony) corals, after having only kept mixed reefs in the past. Lessons I’ve learned from past equipment failures have led me to invest in only high-quality, essential equipment to last for the long haul. This equipment priority informed the choices of a protein skimmer, calcium reactor, return and circulation pumps, and lighting.

The space my fish room provided allowed me to try some new things as well. Aside from the main tank, I’ve been able to install smaller tanks to implement strict quarantine procedures for the first time. All the animals in the system go through some form of quarantine, depending on the species. The process might be long and cumbersome, but it has provided me the peace of mind that common diseases won’t affect the long-term health of my animals.

SPECIFICATIONS Display: 72" × 48" × 24" Volume: 360 gallons Lighting: (6) Neptune SKY, (3) Orphek LED bars Flow: (2) Maxspect Gyre XF350, (2) EcoTech Marine MP60, (4) EcoTech Marine MP40 Skimmer: Reef Octopus Regal 300INT Calcium Reactor: GEO CR624 Sump: custom Synergy Reef, 100 gallons Refugium: 75 gallons with Red Ogo, Ulva, and chaeto macroalgae Controller: Neptune Apex Coral QT: 40 gallons Fish QT: 55 gallons MAINTENANCE I believe diligent maintenance is a major factor in successful reefing.

I tried to design an overall system and room that provided easy access to all essential equipment to make the day-to-day chores less tedious.

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Quoyi Parrotfish and Cleaner Wrasse

Regal Angelfish

Sunburst Anthias

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The maintenance routine is conceptually simple, but it does take some time (a few hours a week). To me, the most critical and timeconsuming task is also the most enjoyable: simply observing all the animals in the system, as they provide the best direct feedback on the health and needs of the system. Once I’ve checked “stare at the fish” off my to-do list, I start the work. The calcium reactor is visually checked daily. The glass is cleaned three times a week, and the filter socks are changed every 3 days. The protein skimmer cup gets cleaned once a week. The water change routine is automated to an extent (4.5 gallons daily), but the water vats for the ATO (auto top-off) and water changes must be replenished biweekly as well. All pumps are cleaned in a citric acid bath once every 3 to 4 months.

FISH • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Quoyi Parrotfish Moorish Idol (2) Watanabei Angelfish Regal Angelfish Bellus Angelfish Achilles Tang Yellow Tang Purple Tang Bartlett’s Anthias (5) Evansi Anthias Squareback Anthias Sunburst Anthias (4) Ocellaris Clownfish Pearlyhead Jawfish Leopard Wrasse Ornate Leopard Wrasse Scott’s Fairy Wrasse Carpenter’s Flasher Wrasse Lubbock’s Fairy Wrasse (2) Firefish Green Mandarin Midas Blenny Cleaner Wrasse Flame Hawkfish Sixline Wrasse

CORALS I have one Aussie Elegance coral and one gorgonian. The rest of my corals are SPS, including Acropora, Millepora, Montipora, and Stylophora.

OTHER • snails • Stichodactyla gigantea anemone FEEDING I’ve learned that proper feeding not only keeps the fish healthy but also benefits all the corals in the system. I feed a total of five times daily: twice with a mix of freeze-dried foods (Cyclops, Calanus, Mysis, and rotifers) and three times with my homemade mix of frozen foods (clams, squid, and shrimp). Access to a large Asian seafood market in Denver has been great for obtaining these fresh foods affordably!

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WATER PARAMETERS Temperature: 76–79° F pH: 8.0–8.3 Salinity: 33–35 ppt Alkalinity: 7.5–8.5 dKH Nitrate: 2–10 ppm Phosphate: 0.02–0.08 ppm I manually test alkalinity daily when I’m home and track weeklong trends to adjust the effluent rate of my calcium reactor. After the first year, I now rarely test other parameters but will when observation of the animals indicates a problem.

CLOSING This system has just passed its 2-year mark. My plans now are to just let it continue on cruise control and let newer corals grow in while trimming back established colonies. The hard work—the detailed planning and installation of the entire system—is done. All the upfront research has countless benefits later and helps to prevent overcomplicating the true needs of my aquarium.

Reefkeeping is one of the few hobbies that allows one to dive into so many topics: biology, chemistry, electrical, mechanical, software design, plumbing, etc. There is always something new to learn. And a good-looking tank is a great conversation piece for company, especially when it’s got a bar! R

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