Reef Hobbyist Magazine Q1 2023 by Reef Hobbyist Magazine

FIRST QUARTER 2023 I VOLUME 17

SKUNKS,

THE PEACEFUL CLOWNS

FEATURES 6 ON THE COVER CAPTIVE - BRED SPOTLIGHT:

SKUNKS, THE PEACEFUL CLOWNS Jim Adelberg is the executive editor of RHM. Clownfish are iconic in our hobby, but some can be challenging to keep in mixed fish communities. Here’s a listing of the Amphiprion species complexes ranked by aggression and a synopsis of captive-bred skunks, the most peaceful clowns.

Cover image by Richard Carey

BLANKENSHIP PENINSULA Brad Blankenship has been addicted to coral reefs for 30 years. He is the owner of Mantis Reef Aquacultured Corals and a scuba diver at the Columbus Zoo and Aquarium. Follow his evolution in the hobby that led to this exemplary display.

WAVE GOODBYE TO WATER FLOW DILEMMAS Keith Moyle is a 48-year veteran reefer and owner of Kahuna Reef Motivation. If you’re wondering how to plan and assess flow configurations for your reef, then this article is for you. Review the types of wavemakers available and their best applications here.

IAN'S ZOANTHID GARDEN Ian Cosford has been a hobbyist for only 5 years, and this is his third reef. Starting with the newest Aquaforest Oceanguard all-in-one system, Ian has created this colorful masterpiece.

CLEANING PROTOCOLS FOR SUCCESS Adam Mullins is a co-owner of The Mystic Reef in Riverside, California. Maintaining a healthy marine tank is a labor of love and dedication. Learn from a pro the maintenance techniques that will extend the life of your equipment and improve the health of your tank.

WWC MASSIVE PENTAGON LAGOON Nicole Helgason is a coral-loving scuba diver who has been writing about reef tanks since 2015. World Wide Corals is well known for awesome store displays, and here’s a full rundown of their 1,200-gallon mangrove lagoon tank.

WHEN SURGERY IS THE ONLY OPTION Chad Vossen has worked in the aquarium industry for nearly 2 decades and also breeds marine fish and inverts in his spare time. For a family pet, surgery is sometimes the only option. Follow the adventures of one very lucky angelfish in this uplifting tale.

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Blackfoot Clownfish | Image by Antje Schultner

CAPTIVE-BRED SPOTLIGHT:

Skunks, the Peaceful Clowns

JIM ADELBERG

here are a lot of different clownfish in this big old world. Last I checked, we’re up to 31 species (30 from the Amphiprion genus plus Premnas biaculeatus, the Maroon Clownfish). The Amphiprion genus is divided into five complexes based on their evolutionary and genetic relationships: the Akallopisos complex (e.g., A. akallopisos and A. perideraion), the Clarkii complex (e.g., A. bicinctus and A. clarkii), the Ephippium complex (e.g., A. ephippium

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and A. frenatus), the Percula complex (e.g., A. ocellaris and A. percula), and the Polymnus complex (e.g., A. polymnus). This is interesting but not particularly useful information for people who are considering clowns as pets. I find that a more useful division is a scale based on aggression. Let’s begin with the ones that would rip your face off if given a chance. I first became aware of just how aggressive clownfish

Orange Skunk Clownfish | Image by RIckard Zerpe

can be when I was snorkeling in Tonga. I passed over a large anemone and suddenly felt a hard bite on my leg. I looked down and saw a 4-inch female Bluestripe Clownfish (A. chrysopterus) lining up for another attack. Initially I was amused. This little fish was attacking an intruder hundreds of times her size and weight. Amusement turned to annoyance as the fish landed three more bites in quick succession. I decided we were both getting stressed out by the encounter and left, but not before I had gained a newfound respect for these little bulldogs of the marine world. In fairness to my attacker, she may have been sitting on a nest of eggs, which ratchets up clownfish aggression a couple of notches. Like all clownfish, Bluestripe Clowns are protandrous hermaphrodites. This means they are all born as males, and some will later

Pink Skunk Clownfish | Image by Bernard Dupont

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transform into females, which are typically more aggressive and territorial than males. A. chrysopterus is in the Clarkii complex, and I consider some of the clowns in this group to be, inch for inch, among the most aggressive fish in the sea. I like aggressive clowns myself, and right now I’m working with a big pair of A. bicinctus, another species from the Clarkii group. Moving down my aggression scale, we come to the Ephippium complex. This includes the iconic Tomato Clownfish (A. frenatus), which can become quite aggressive as adult females. The next couple of groups, while still territorial and aggressive, are much less bold and usually won’t go far out of their way to attack.

Blackfoot Clownfish | Image by Mark Manq

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The Polymnus group is perhaps best known by its most commonly seen representatives, the Sebae Clownfish (A. sebae) and, to a lesser extent, the Saddleback Clownfish (A. polymnus).

In my experience, the females of these two species become aggressive as adults, but even then, they are less nippy than their Clarkii-complex cousins. Next on my scale of descending aggression is the Percula group, which consists of A. ocellaris and A. percula, the most common clown species in our hobby. Although these clowns are usually fairly mellow, they can be quite feisty for their size, and I have seen them decide they’re having a bad day and suddenly bully a tank mate nearly to death. Now, at the very bottom of the aggression scale, we come to the stars of today’s article: the Akallopisos (skunk clown) complex. There are only a few skunk species that are somewhat regularly available to us hobbyists, and they are Blackfoot Clownfish (A. nigripes), Orange Skunk Clownfish (A. sandaracinos), and Pink Skunk Clownfish (A. perideraion). I have kept Blackfoot Clowns in the past, and they are very timid. They are so shy that I wouldn’t even recommend them for a community tank and would suggest

Orange Skunk Clownfish | Image by Sabine Penisson

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A harem of Pink Skunk Clowns | Image by Nick Hobgood

keeping them in a tank of their own, if possible. It’s rare to come across them, but sometimes when they are available, you can pick up a group. This can be fortuitous because skunk clowns are the best candidates for establishing a clown harem in captivity. By far the most common skunks in fish stores and often available as captive-bred fish are the Orange and Pink Skunks, so let’s discuss them a bit. Orange Skunk Clowns are known to occur in the Western Pacific: Christmas Island and Western Australia to the Ryukyu Islands, Taiwan, Philippines, New Guinea, D'Entrecasteaux Islands, New Britain, and Solomon Islands (per FishBase). These fish are usually found in harems associated with anemones, and this can be reproduced in a home aquarium. Make sure to get a large size of the correct anemone and introduce the entire harem of fish at the same time. Orange Skunk Clowns are less timid than Blackfoot Clowns, so you can set up a harem of Orange Skunks and a large anemone in a big tank of mixed community fish if you like. Pink Skunk Clowns are also known to occur in the Western Pacific: Gulf of Thailand and Cocos-Keeling in the eastern Indian Ocean to

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Samoa and Tonga, north to the Ryukyu Islands, south to the Great Barrier Reef, and New Caledonia (per FishBase). Adult female Pink Skunks get a bit larger than their orange or black-footed relatives. Despite this, they are quite mellow and are generally less aggressive than the smaller Orange Skunks. They are less likely to form harems, but a pair of Pink Skunks will happily enjoy life in a large anemone in a tank full of mixed fish. As captive-bred fish, Orange and Pink Skunk Clowns are even less aggressive, but it may take them longer to associate with anemones. Skunks are undemanding and are quite happy with a mix of pellets and frozen, meaty foods like frozen brine shrimp. They are also excellent candidates for captive-breeding programs, and even if your goal doesn’t include raising the next generation of skunks, just observing the mating rituals and parental care of these fish is fascinating. While I love all clownfish, I must admit I have a soft spot for skunk clowns. Their bold, solid colors, enchanting swimming style, and mellow attitudes go a long way in my book. Hopefully, I’ve managed to convince you to consider some captive-bred skunks for your next clowns. I promise you won’t regret it! R

Left-side view

BLANKENSHIP PENINSULA BRAD BLANKENSHIP

have been a reefkeeper for over 30 years and have always been fascinated with the ocean and the wonderful creatures that call it home. When I graduated from college, my dream was to travel the world and scuba dive. I wanted to go to all the cool places I had seen in my favorite Jacques Cousteau documentaries. But I was in my twenties with very limited resources, and that dream certainly wasn’t going to happen anytime soon. I did, however, start my first very modest reef tank in 1991. At that time, the internet was in its infancy, and we did not have the almost unlimited array of good reefkeeping resources we enjoy today. I was lucky to discover The Marine Aquarium Reference: Systems and Invertebrates, written by the aquaculture legend Martin A. Moe, Jr. That book shaped my early understanding of keeping saltwater aquaria. I am fairly certain that if I had not found that book, I would not still be keeping a reef aquarium today. By 1995, I had a 90-gallon acrylic corner tank running pure Berlin Method, with a single Iwasaki 6,500 K metal halide for lighting and lots of kalk powder dosed through the auto top-off (ATO). Every 6 months or so, the kalkwasser additions would destroy another ATO pump, but the tank was successful. That tank would eventually crash during a lightning storm. The storm tripped the ground fault that powered the tank while I was away. Ironically, this occurred when my wife and I traveled to the Florida Keys to scuba dive for the very first time.

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My current display tank is a custom 400-gallon peninsula tank made of 3/4" low-iron glass, viewable on three sides. The dimensions are 80" × 40" × 30", with no center bracing that could potentially block light. Euro bracing runs down both of the long sides of the tank. I have had this tank a little over 15 years, and the aquascape was established in its current state around 10 years ago. This tank has a Starboard bottom instead of sand because I like how corals encrust the Starboard and how easy it is to maintain. Over the years, I had tried various thicknesses of sandbeds. I came to the realization that no matter what I did, nutrients caused by the accumulation of detritus would result in unwanted algae at around the 5-year mark of any sandbed. With a bare-bottom tank, whenever detritus accumulates, I simply siphon it out. Water flow is provided by four large Tunze propeller pumps that are hidden behind a smoked-glass partition on the non-viewable end of the tank. Water gets pushed from that partition to the other end of the tank by a combination of pumps as they randomly cycle on and off throughout the day. The water then returns over the top of the reef crest in a large gyre wave pattern until it reaches the overflow located in the center of the partition. TARGET WATER PARAMETERS Temperature: 77–78° F Specific Gravity: 1.026 pH: 7.7–8.2

Right-side view

Nitrate: 0–1 ppm Alkalinity: 9.0–9.4 dKH Calcium: 440–450 ppm Phosphate: 0.03–0.05 ppm Magnesium: 1,350 ppm

skimmer, and three frag tanks are all plumbed into the basement below the tank for a total system volume of 600 gallons. This setup keeps the main tank upstairs almost completely silent. Due to my very low nutrient levels, this tank rarely has algae issues. For coral health, I compensate for the naturally low nutrient levels by dosing

All fresh water passes through my reverse-osmosis system, and Red Sea salt is my mix of choice. Stable alkalinity is vital to sustained success. I monitor the alkalinity of the tank with an Alkatronic auto tester that sends a text message to my phone three times a day. This detailed alkalinity monitoring allowed me to diagnose that, when my house’s windows were closed, the system’s alkalinity demand decreased as the level of CO2 in the house increased. Slower calcification of the stony corals would result due to the increase of CO2 in the house, which lowers the overall pH of the water in the system. To prevent this reduction in calcification whenever it is necessary to close all the windows, I use CO2 scrubbing media in a reactor that is in-line with the air intake of my skimmer. This raises the overall pH of the water, and now alkalinity demand is pretty consistent, no matter the season. The dosing for this tank is controlled by my Neptune Apex controller. I have had this system for many years, and I like the easy customization that the Apex allows. Calcium and alkalinity requirements are managed by a combination of methods due to the very high demands of this system. A large 8-inch GEO calcium reactor runs continuously, and ESV B-Ionic 2-part is dosed to keep up with the additional demands of my corals. I use the Alkatronic as a monitor only; if an adjustment is needed, I simply adjust the 2-part dosing as required to keep the parameters within my target range. My system has a tendency to run low on nitrate and phosphate, probably due to a combination of my custom 5-foot-tall, 16-inchdiameter protein skimmer and the fact that there is no sand to trap detritus with the bare-bottom-tank methodology. The sump, Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Top-down view

Reed Mariculture Oyster Feast and Two Little Fishies Acropower (amino acids) daily. I also like to feed my fish and corals heavily with a homemade seafood blend. A couple of drops of Lugol’s iodine are added daily, and Brightwell Aquatics Replenish, a trace element supplement, is added weekly. For lighting, I use five Orphek iCon lights that are hung from a custom rack made of 80/20 aluminum rail. When this tank was first started, I used three 400-watt metal halides. As the LED trend started to take hold in the hobby, I took a cautious wait-and-see approach. I’m so pleased I did, as my eventual transition to Orphek LED lighting was seamless and easy. I originally went with the Atlantik V4 and upgraded to the Orphek iCon when the kits came out last year. I really like how Orphek allows me to upgrade as new versions of their lights come out. The growth and color of my corals are better under the iCons than any other light combination I have ever tried in my 30 years of reefkeeping. FISH • • • • • • • • •

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Blue Hippo Tang Chalk Basslet Falco Hawkfish Magnificent Foxface Mystery Wrasse Ocellaris Clownfish (breeding pair) Porkfish (2) Purple Tangs Red Sea Regal Angelfish

Bubble-tip Anemone in a field of Sunset Montipora

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• Red Sea Sailfin Tang • Royal Gramma • White Tail Bristletooth Tang INVERTEBRATES My display tank is dominated by Acropora species, with over 50 different colonies. The frag tanks downstairs are filled with additional Acropora frags currently in different stages of grow-out. I keep lots of Euphyllia species, as Torches and Hammers are my favorite long-polyp stony (LPS) corals. I also have an Aussie Elegance coral, several Goniopora, and Jawbreaker, Bounce, and other mushrooms. A purple Magnificent Anemone sits in the center of the display. Even though I have continuously kept a reef tank for over half my life, I’m still as passionate about this hobby now as when I first began. For me, it’s the perfect blend of art and science. It’s challenging at times, but because of that challenge, reefkeeping can be so

A Magnificent Anemone hosts an Ocellaris Clownfish.

rewarding when successful. It’s impossible to get bored when there is always something new to try or learn. I also like that my goals in this hobby have evolved over time. At first, I simply wanted to keep my corals alive. As my aquaculture skills have improved, I am now able to distribute frags to stock the tanks of others. This in turn helps me reduce the impact on the wild reefs that I still dearly love to this day. R

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Williams et al

Wave Goodbye to Water Flow Dilemmas KEITH MOYLE Images by author except as noted “The least movement is of importance to all nature. The entire ocean is affected by a pebble.” – Blaise Pascal INTRODUCTION Consider one reef suddenly deprived of light and another deprived of water movement. The reef without water movement would decline more quickly, and the same applies to your aquarium. This article explores the options for creating water movement and why understanding this dynamic is so important. We’ll also consider the main types of wavemakers, how they work, and the flow patterns they produce. For simplicity, I will define water movement in terms of flow or flow rates and turnover as the number of times the aquarium volume is circulated every hour.

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WHY IS FLOW SO IMPORTANT? Proper aquarium water movement provides oxygen-rich water to feed the bacteria present in the live rock and filter. These bacterial colonies provide biological filtration by breaking down the organic toxins and pollutants present in the water. Good flow also ensures fish have a plentiful supply of oxygenated water, brings food to sessile invertebrates, helps corals shed waste, and reduces the buildup of detritus, which would otherwise raise nutrient levels. THE NATURE OF WATER FLOW ON CORAL REEFS If we consider the main reef zones and their prevailing conditions, we can determine the type and level of flow that will provide the best conditions for our livestock. From the shoreline to the inshore back of the reef are the shallow waters of the reef flat, which are

These LPS corals thrive in lower-flow areas.

quite often high in nutrients due to land-based runoff. These waters are relatively calm, as they are protected from the sea by the reef wall. Progressing seaward, the next feature is the back reef. This slopes gradually upward to the reef crest, which is subject to the full force of incoming waves. The reef crest is the shallowest area of the reef and features highly turbulent, oxygenated water. Corals found here receive intense sunlight and are often exposed at low tide. Beyond the reef crest is the fore reef, or the seaward slope, leading to the drop-off and the outer reef wall. The high-energy, chaotic water flows of the reef crest are home to mainly smallpolyp stony (SPS) corals such as Acropora species. Large-polyp stony (LPS) corals generally originate from deeper waters with less light and calmer flow. Many LPS corals have soft bodies that fill with water, and they prefer gentle, indirect laminar flow. Soft corals (octocorals) are found predominantly in areas with low current and no wave action, such as outer reef slopes and the channels that exist between reefs and islands. Creating water flow in our aquariums isn’t difficult with today’s wide choice in circulation pumps. And with some thoughtful planning, it’s easy to achieve the type and level of flow best suited to our reef’s needs. FLOW PATTERNS Much is said about the different types of beneficial flow for reef aquaria, but before we consider the attributes of each, it’s worth understanding the terminology used. The main types of flow patterns to consider are laminar flow, gyre flow, and turbulent flow. Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Laminar Flow: Flow that moves smoothly and uninterrupted in one direction. Gyre Flow: A type of laminar flow where the water movement follows a circular motion. Turbulent Flow: Chaotic, random flow where the water’s path is non-linear and of varying velocity. Direct and Indirect Flow: Direct flow is the full, uninterrupted, and non-deflected output of a pump. This is not suitable for most corals, as it can damage delicate tissue. Corals prefer indirect flow, where the water’s path is disrupted by various objects or other water flow. Creating laminar flow is easy, and since the launch of the Maxspect Gyre pumps, gyre flow can also be introduced into our reefs. Turbulent flow is produced when various paths of water collide or where laminar flow has its path diverted by an object. Inevitably, our tanks will have some areas of turbulence, but by setting up pumps in opposing directions, we can create turbulence at the point where their streams collide. WAVEMAKER OPTIONS Standard Flow: Stream pumps offer either wide or narrow flow patterns with several variants available. Generally, these propeller pumps attach to the aquarium glass using strong magnetic brackets, though some less powerful pumps still use suction cups. These often feature flow rates in excess of 4,000 gph (gallons per hour), and all except EcoTech Marine’s VorTechs have pump motors inside the aquarium.

conditions in different areas of the reef. Generally, these include constant, pulse (wave), and random modes and allow a maximum speed to be set for the selected mode. Many controllers offer remote control via Wi-Fi or the internet. It is beneficial to vary the programmed modes throughout the day, which can be achieved with advanced controllers. Bear in mind that a pump set at 100 percent output may average considerably less power over each cycle due to program-mode variances. Some advanced pumps such as Neptune’s WAV can even monitor flow rates, giving it the ability to turn off a pump when it is no longer submerged or if it becomes jammed. The WAV, however, can only operate via an Apex controller. MULTIPLE-PUMP SYSTEMS While most systems operate with a controller and a single pump, multiple-pump systems provide greater options, such as a wider variety of flow paradigms. Pumps positioned at either end of the aquarium can be programmed to mirror one another, creating areas of chaotic flow where the streams collide. Alternatively, they can be set to complement each other to create changing flow through different areas of the tank. Two is better than one where pumps are concerned, and while this means more equipment in the tank, I would always recommend splitting your system’s flow requirements between multiple pumps. This allows you to create alternating laminar and turbulent flows. OTHER CONSIDERATIONS Physical Size: To achieve greater flow rates, larger pumps will be required, but some are more discreet than others. Despite its diminutive size, the affordable Sicce Voyager Nano has a turnover of 2,000 liters per hour (~528 gph), providing a wide, gentle flow. With low running costs, this pump is ideal for nano systems.

Gyre flow can be produced with gyre generators like this one by Maxspect.

Gyre Flow: Maxspect introduced the first real alternative to the propeller pump’s stream flow with their Maxspect Gyre pump. By using finned rotors to create a wide flow pattern, they gently move large volumes of water in one circular direction throughout the aquarium. Controllers: These devices are supplied with the vast majority of wavemakers and control how the pumps operate. Manufacturers often provide a range of pre-programmed modes to replicate the

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Controllers allow you to set wave patterns and adjust the volume of flow.

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Strength, size, and programmability vary between pumps.

Maintenance: Pump performance can deteriorate quickly if they’re not maintained regularly, and since this happens gradually, it often goes unnoticed. Finned-rotor pumps such as the Maxspect Gyres require more maintenance than propeller-based models, as the rotors clog more quickly. EXTERNAL VS. INTERNAL MOTORS Since EcoTech Marine introduced their unique VorTech MP series pumps in 2008, there has been considerable debate as to whether internal or external motors are best. The VorTech’s motor is mounted on the outside of the tank and uses magnetic induction to drive the propeller, with the benefit that the pump’s heat does not increase the water temperature and there are no cables inside the aquarium.

EcoTech Marine’s VorTech MP40 features an external motor.

On the downside, the pump motor is fixed at right angles to the tank wall and cannot be adjusted to aim the flow. Another consideration is that you will need space externally on the side or back of the tank for placement of the motor, which can impact the aesthetics of the aquarium. Prices are also higher due to the magnetic drive technology on this line of pumps.

MOUNTING AND POSITIONING Although wavemakers generally have very strong magnets to mount the pump securely to the glass, it’s important not to exceed a manufacturer’s recommendations on glass thickness to avoid a pump falling off. Once fitted to the magnetic mount, the pump can be rotated and angled to aim the flow in the required direction. Indirect flow is created by bouncing the flow off the glass or rockwork, and turbulence is introduced by causing stream paths to collide. To ensure there are no dead spots in the aquarium, some simple observations can be made. First, observe the extension and movement of coral polyps on all the corals. Second, observe the distribution of fine foods in the water column and where detritus settles. If necessary, adjust the direction of your wavemaker. PUMP ADVANCEMENTS Given rising energy prices, it’s a relief that power-hungry pumps are a thing of the past. The gph/watt ratios have improved dramatically as manufacturers develop more energy-efficient products, though it’s inevitable that more powerful pumps use more electricity. Consumption typically ranges from 3 watts for a 528 gph pump to 60 watts for a 7,400 gph pump. Other than the VorTechs, pump motors will be inside the tank transferring heat to the aquarium. This uncontrollable heat is not desirable and can contribute to overheating, particularly when using multiple pumps in smaller systems.

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Noise Levels: This has grabbed the attention of manufacturers recently, as discerning aquarists want their tanks to be as quiet as possible. This trend is highlighted by EcoTech Marine naming their most recent line of VorTech pumps “Quiet Drive.” The debate continues as to which pumps are quietest when under load or pulsing.

that as your reef grows, flow patterns and velocities will change, so you may need to redirect your pumps periodically. FISH REQUIREMENTS

PLACEMENT OF CORALS

Most fish will adjust to a range of flow conditions. Even some pipefish can adapt to fast-moving water, though there are exceptions such as seahorses and jellyfish. Some fish, including free-swimming tangs, enjoy very high flow rates, which they are accustomed to in the wild.

Once you have found the perfect solution in your choice and positioning of pumps, the correct placement of corals is vital.

SUMMARY

SPS corals need to be in the high-energy, turbulent zone usually found in the top third of your aquarium, whereas LPS and soft corals are more suited to the moderate flows in the lower reaches. Many wavemakers create undertow that produces fast-moving water across the bottom, so be mindful of this when placing corals. Excessively vigorous or direct flow can prevent some corals from fully expanding, and in extreme situations, long-term exposure to excessive flow can tear the tissue away from the coral’s skeleton. Sometimes the slightest change in the position of a coral will make a huge difference in its long-term success. Whenever possible, temporarily place corals and observe their behavior before securing them in position. I would suggest a turnover of around 10 to 15 times the tank volume for soft corals, 20 to 30 times for LPS, and a minimum of 60 times for SPS. However, if you have an SPS-dominated reef, aim even higher, around 80 times. These are only guidelines, and finding the right position for your corals is the key to success. It’s also worth noting

Water movement should be given as much thought and consideration as water quality and lighting. Since the introduction of propeller pumps, we’ve seen several innovative designs: EcoTech's VorTechs, with their magnetically driven external motors; Maxspect’s Gyre series; Neptune’s WAVs; and Tunze’s Stream 3, with its magnetically levitated rotor. As with all aspects of the hobby, research is essential. There are many excellent products providing a range of options and price points to suit you and your aquarium’s needs. While a fully featured wavemaker may be tempting, most of today’s budget options are adequate. Similarly, Wi-Fi control might be appealing, but foregoing it may enable you to purchase a more powerful pump better suited to your needs. I hope this article has given you some insight into the importance of water movement and an understanding of the options available to help you create optimum flow levels that replicate the natural environment. R

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Ian’s Zoanthid Garden IAN COSFORD

’ve been reefing for almost 5 years now, and this is my third tank. After my last tank had run its course, I decided it was time to upgrade. I was limited to a 36-inch tank, however, as that’s all the space I had available. After looking at various models from different manufacturers, I saw a prototype tank from Aquaforest. I’ve always been a big Aquaforest fan and have been using their products for a long time. Their new tank, the OceanGuard, looked like it was exceptionally well built, and the sump was a real showstopper. Once I decided I could wait for the OceanGuard to be released, the planning began. I contacted Aquaforest directly and was offered the first customer tank. I then bought mostly new equipment so I could have two tanks running for a couple of months while I made the switch. Then Covid hit. With delays in parts and shipping, it pushed the build back quite a bit. Since Aquaforest was shipping the tank directly

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from Poland, this delay meant that by the time my tank was ready, the UK had left the EU. This caused so many headaches and lots of extra customs paperwork, but I was determined to have this tank. Finally, it arrived in March of 2022, and I couldn’t have been happier. The build quality and workmanship were excellent. Aquaforest AF Rock was used to create a scape that gave me the maximum room for corals. I added Aquaforest Bio Sand for the substrate and cycled the tank using Aquaforest Bio S, Life Bio Fil, and biomedia from my old system. The cycle took about 4 days. I slowly started adding livestock from my old tank after 2 weeks. Everything was going great until the second month, when I noticed that a lot of my zoas were looking very unhappy and not opening. It wasn’t clear what was wrong, as the parameters were all within range. I finally realized that the cheap thermometer I had bought to use during the transfer had broken, and the tiny metal balls inside

Taser, Spitfire, and Lemon and Lime Zoas

the metal ballast had leaked out. I managed to remove all of them from the tank but not before losing quite a few zoas. After this setback, the tank recovered and stabilized nicely. As the tank hit the 6-month mark, I had a week-long holiday booked. I enlisted a good friend and experienced reefer to look after the system while I was away. Once again, the tank suffered a mysterious setback. For some unknown reason, all my Torches started bailing. All the other corals were fine, and again, all parameters were spot on. There was no brown jelly disease or visible pests. To this day, I still don’t know what happened. I had planned on bringing some equipment over from the old tank, but I needed new wavemakers that could accommodate this tank’s thicker glass. I chose the Aquaillumination Neros and reused my EcoTech Vectra return pump, which is linked to a battery backup. For lighting, I originally purchased two AI Hydra 32HDs for this tank Sump and engine room

Scrambled Eggs Zoas

but ended up switching to two GHL Mitras LX 7206s. These lights had really impressed me when I’d seen them on a friend’s tank. After running the GHL Profilux P4 and KH Director, I decided to take the plunge and go with the Mitras. While the Hydras were fine, in my opinion, the Mitras are a step up. One of my recent upgrades was to change the standard return nozzle to a VCA Flex random flow generator. It’s a small piece of equipment, but I’m a great believer in random flow paradigms. I have been very happy with this upgraded nozzle. SPECIFICATIONS Display: Aquaforest OceanGuard 435, 82 gallons Lighting: (2) GHL Mitras LX 7206s Water Movement: (2) AI Nero 5s, AI Nero 3 Return Pump: EcoTech Vectra S2 Reactor: Aquaforest AF 90 Unnamed zoas

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UV Sterilizer: Deltec, 20 watts Skimmer: Reef Octopus 110-SSS Auto Top-Off: Tunze 3155 Testing: GHL KH Director Controller: GHL Profilux P4 Dosers: (2) GHL Doser 2.1s I enjoy keeping corals more than fish. After all this time, I am still amazed by the color and movement of corals. I love zoas, and my zoa garden is probably what I’m most proud of. However, over the last 6 months, I’ve been adding more and more Acropora. The challenge of getting the best color and polyp extension out of my Acropora is enjoyable to me. These corals have now fully encrusted onto the rock and are really starting to flourish. FISH • • • • •

Bizarro Cyphastrea

Goniopora and Alveopora

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Yellow Tang Peacock Wrasse Blue-green Chromis Chalk Goby Longnose Hawkfish

• • • • •

Mandarin Dragonette Ocellaris Clownfish Banggai Cardinal Midas Blenny Canary Wrasse

The Yellow Tang was the fish I’d always wanted since starting in the hobby, and he does a great job on the algae. I’m currently removing the chromis due to territorial aggression. This is the first compatibility issue I’ve had with any of my fish. I may replace the chromis with anthias.

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This tank runs entirely on Aquaforest products. I’ve tried others, but Aquaforest just works for me. Here are some of the products I’m currently using: • • • • • • • •

Aquaforest Reef Salt Aquaforest Components Pro Aquaforest ABEV Aquaforest Zoa Food Aquaforest Power food Aquaforest Life Bio Fil Aquaforest Nitraphos Minus Aquaforest Phosphate Minus

Lately, I’m finding it hard to make the time to do consistent maintenance and water changes due to work and family constraints. I’m hoping to get back to a regular schedule soon. Even so, the tank is stable and running well.

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Zoanthid garden

PARAMETERS pH: 7.9–8.1 Nitrate: 5.0 ppm Alkalinity: 7.7 dKH

Calcium: 415 ppm Phosphate: 0.08 ppm Magnesium: 1,350 ppm

I struggle with maintaining pH levels, so I’ve just added the new Aquaforest Air Scrubber. I’m hoping this will get my pH up to the 8.2 range. I get ICP-OES (inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectroscopy) testing every 2 months, and those results help me plan my trace-element dosing. I also dose supplemental iodine and manganese based on those results. In the immediate future, I plan to keep fiddling with this tank. I’m constantly moving and fragging the corals to make space. I’d love a larger tank, but with the space and financial restraints, I’ll forego it for a while. So after all the waiting, setbacks, and challenges, was this project worth it? I’ll let you be the judge. Cheers, reefers! R Reef Hobbyist Magazine

CLEANING PROTOCOLS FOR SUCCESS ADAM MULLINS

’ve always been told not to mix water and electricity. As aquarium hobbyists, we violate this advice in so many ways, from expensive high-power lights hanging just inches above the water (but still well within the splash zone) to electrical cords going directly into corrosive, conductive salt water. The effects of this harsh salt water and the inherent humidity of the tank environment can be very damaging to the equipment that keeps an aquarium functioning. Add in the abundance of macro- and microorganisms that thrive in a marine environment, as well as the minerals found in reef tanks, and you have a bunch of potential accidents waiting to happen.

A lack of regular hardware maintenance contributes to many of the problems that we associate with old tank syndrome and can cause premature equipment failures. Everything from pumps to lighting, and even the viewing panes, require maintenance at specific intervals.

One of the most crucial yet neglected aspects of aquarium keeping is the routine equipment maintenance required to keep our life support systems functioning optimally. Often viewed with disdain, these practices can make or break an aquarium in the long run.

PUMPS

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One of the key factors I consider when shopping for new equipment is the ease of routine maintenance. This often leads me to choose one particular brand or model over another. After all, the easier and quicker the task, the more inclined one is to do it.

Pumps are the hearts of our aquariums. They power our most important pieces of equipment, including the main circulation and filtration systems, protein skimmers, reactors, and wavemakers.

Algae and detritus buildup decreases the flow rate of pumps.

A vinegar soak and scrubbing will restore the pump to its original condition.

Without a properly functioning pump, these pieces of equipment will not run correctly and can throw our tanks out of balance. To protect our systems from failure, all pumps must be inspected frequently. Pump intake areas are often the first places to become clogged with detritus, errant snails, or algae. Manual removal of anything that might clog pumps should be a priority. Due to the heat created in and around a spinning pump impeller, a particularly rich environment for calcification (the formation of calcium deposits) is created. Calcification can be a death blow to equipment. The buildup of calcium and other forms of grime over time will decrease the flow rate of pumps. This increased friction leads to premature wear and eventual failure. Fortunately, a very simple solution exists for removing calcium deposits: a mild acid soak with vinegar or citric acid. Mild acid like vinegar (acetic acid) can easily remove most buildup with an overnight soak. Pumps can be run inside

The buildup on this needle wheel prevents it from performing at its peak.

Routine cleaning keeps the needle wheel operating efficiently.

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the vinegar bath to clean the interior parts. Keep in mind that vinegar may discolor certain plastics. If this a concern, use a slightly less acidic solution. Needle-wheel pumps like those found in protein skimmers are designed to chop air into fine bubbles to be mixed with water and injected into the skimmer body. These needle wheels can become clogged with shells, sand, algae, and other foreign objects that make their way through the pump intake. Another key consideration specific to protein skimmers is the venturi valve. This is the area where the air tube feeding the skimmer meets the water surface and is especially prone to salt-creep buildup, reducing air flow and ultimately the efficiency of the skimmer.

and performance, and at worst, it can lead to catastrophic failure and flooding. Inspect all plumbing parts routinely, including overflow grates that can get clogged with algae buildup (leading to higher in-tank water levels), screens, drains, fittings, etc. Using fittings like split-unions and checkvalves, when possible, will make the inevitable maintenance much easier. Check-valves are key pieces of plumbing that should never be allowed to fail. I recommend using clear check-valves for easy visual inspection and regular vinegar soaks for them. I soak mine every 6 months. LIGHTING

PLUMBING If pumps are the hearts of our systems, then the plumbing is the veins and arteries and also requires routine inspection and servicing. At the very least, a lack of plumbing maintenance can contribute to decreased flow

Our lighting systems have progressed a long way, to say the least, with various iterations of LEDs dominating the market these days. T5 fluorescent lighting still has a place in reefkeeping, and many of the same maintenance principles apply, with the caveat that T5s also require frequent bulb changes. The universal axiom of keeping the lamp/diode covers clean applies to any type of lighting fixture. Invariably, splashes from the display tank, as well as dust, will coat these surfaces and reduce the amount of usable light getting through to the tank.

A clear check-valve allows you to monitor the buildup inside and also see that it's functioning correctly.

A clean check-valve ensures maximum water flow and reduces the chance of valve failure.

A lighting fixture's fan keeps the unit from overheating. Over time, dust and grime will build up, increasing the chance of failure.

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The ease of use and potential longevity of LED lighting fixtures has led to the false impression that they are essentially maintenance free. Rather, the fans that keep LED fixtures from overheating require special attention. These fans will collect dust and grime that can gradually decrease performance or even lead to the fixture failing completely if the fan gets too dirty and stops working. There’s no set schedule for cleaning a fan, as it is highly dependent on the dust in the air and the humidity of the environment. I’ve had customers who have had to replace cooling fans within 6 months of purchase while others go years without any issue. A good rule of thumb is to conduct at least a visual inspection every month and a thorough cleaning every 6 months.

Thorough cleaning of the fan will ensure your lighting fixture is being properly cooled, increasing the longevity of the unit.

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Cleaning the fan on a light fixture is one of the more tedious aquarium maintenance tasks and often requires removing the light fixture, wiping it down, removing the fan cover, and then cleaning the fan blades. I typically use Q-tips, paper towels, and a vacuum with a head designed for upholstery cleaning. Compressed air such as Dust-Off also works exceptionally well, and keyboard-cleaning or automotive-detailing gels can be used to get into the narrow confines of fans and heat sinks. VIEWING PANES The aquarium’s viewing panes require the most frequent maintenance of all. Both the interior and exterior surfaces need to be cleaned to maintain the beauty of your display. Algae grows on the interior, and smudges, streaks, and salt creep will build up on the exterior. Generally, RO/DI water is my preferred diluent when wiping down display tanks. Mild chemical cleaners can be used, with care taken to prevent any cleaning solution from entering the display or filtration system. Scratches are the bane of every tank owner but are exceedingly frustrating for those who own acrylic tanks. Acrylic is inherently softer than glass, so extra care must be taken to prevent scratching. One of my favorite maintenance tools for this process is a scraper with interchangeable blades: a stainless-steel blade for glass and a plastic blade for acrylic. Mr. Clean Magic Erasers are also excellent at removing stubborn growth on acrylic tanks without scratching. Care should always be taken to test inconspicuous areas first, as some acrylics are softer than others. If scratches do arise, there are multiple polishing compounds available for both glass and acrylic, though their use often requires draining the tank and substantial elbow grease. For glass, I’ve found ordinary toothpaste to be somewhat effective in removing very minor scratches. For deeper acrylic scratches, Novus Scratch Remover has become the standard. Their kit comes with three progressive grits of polish to be used depending on the severity of the scratch, though as mentioned previously, interior scratch repair will often require the tank be emptied. Even our beloved magnet cleaners can benefit from regular maintenance. Many sedentary sea creatures that have hard bodies or shells will colonize them if they’re left in the aquarium for extended periods. Just like most submerged equipment, this can be remedied with a vinegar soak and a good scrub. CHILLERS, UV STERILIZERS, SUMPS, AND SENSORS There are many other pieces of equipment that find their way into our systems, all of which require specific maintenance procedures and schedules. Chillers require their own cleaning considerations. In addition to the maintenance of the supply pump, most chillers have an air filter that should be cleaned on a frequent basis, as often as every 2 to 3 months depending on the environment. I’ve seen chillers run without filters in the past, but the radiator and interior parts end up coated in dust, which can cause overheating. UV sterilizers require their own maintenance related to the plumbing and specifically the cleanliness of the UV bulb sleeve.

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This focus on cleanliness extends to the sump tank as well. Relegated to a dark cabinet, the sump can be one of the most neglected pieces of equipment in the system, as its role is mainly passive. This neglect can easily lead to problems down the road. The buildup of detritus and critters can wear down and/or clog equipment or pumps within the sump, as well as add to nutrient levels in the system. For this reason, I regularly scrape and siphon my sump tanks. As the hobby advances and equipment for automation becomes more common, it is important to apply the same maintenance principles to these types of advanced devices. For example, optical or float sensors like those found on many auto top-offs or mat rollers can be especially finicky if they become dirty, leading to improper function or failure. CONCLUSION

A poorly maintained sump will not operate efficiently.

Maintenance protocols are critical for the health and longevity of our tanks. There are various ways to organize maintenance and promote good discipline, such as setting reminders, using apps, or keeping detailed logbooks. Water changes are the perfect time to incorporate these tasks. I like to rotate my maintenance to coordinate with my water change schedule, e.g., one month I may do all internal powerheads, the next month I may do the sump, pumps, etc. Keeping your equipment clean may be time consuming and tedious, but in the long run, you’ll have the satisfaction of a beautiful reef to show for it, and you can sleep better at night knowing you’ve done all you can to prevent the floods, shorts, and fires that every hobbyist dreads. R

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WWC MASSIVE PENTAGON LAGOON NICOLE HELGASON

he pentagon lagoon at World Wide Corals is a custom tank inspired by the estuary-style lagoon tank at the Downtown Aquarium in Denver, Colorado. The display’s two rear panels measure 130" long each, and the tank has a volume of 1,200 gallons.

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We chose to make this display out of glass instead of acrylic for maximum longevity. To avoid any bracing on the top of the tank, we made the tank walls 4 feet tall but only filled the tank halfway up. Any higher and the force of the water would start to exceed the strength of the walls. Once we knew the tank was solid and could

withstand the 10,000 pounds of pressure, we started designing the aquascape. AQUASCAPE We wanted the tank centered around a 9-year-old mangrove plant we received from Julian Sprung. The aquascape is shaped like a hand with the mangrove in its palm, and the rockwork branches out like fingers from the mangrove. This hand design was intentional, as we always think ahead about tank maintenance. The sandy patches between the rockwork allow us to walk toward the back of the tank and also provide the best way to spread out the corals horizontally from back to front. With this aquascape design, we were able to create a variety of microhabitats to mimic the natural environment of each group of corals. For example, starting in the back with the mangrove plant, we knew we could place our lower-light corals under the diffused light beneath the mangrove leaves. Still, over the years, the tree has nearly doubled in size, so we’re finding our shady-coral strategy is working a little too well. We have had to thin out some branches on the mangrove and even start to move some corals out from under its shade.

We’ve found that after 3 years, this semi-natural environment yields a substantially faster coral growth rate than we experience with our other systems. And because these corals grow so fast, we’re able to sell these store-aquacultured frags so everyone can have a piece of our lagoon tank! CHALLENGES Besides designing for microhabitats and ease of maintenance, we wanted to ensure the tank looked good from all perspectives, especially the top-down view. But this desire to have the tank viewable from the top turned out to be one of our biggest challenges. With the hand-shaped aquascape, we have pockets of very low flow between the rocky ridges. Because of these pockets of reduced flow, we started having algae and cyano build up in the valleys. To beat the buildup, we started adding more flow, new powerheads, a bigger return pump, and additional outflow nozzles. This created so much surface turbulence that the top-down view was compromised. FUTURE UPGRADES We’ve gone through a trial-and-error process to get this display’s flow right, and we think we have finally found the solution. The next Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Striped Surgeonfish

upgrade will be adding a Panta Rhei 16,000 gph (gallons per hour) HydroTube in-line pump.

of the calcium reactor, replacing media and CO2 as necessary, servicing the pumps, and cleaning the EcoTech Radion cooling fans.

The HydroTube will be located under and behind the mangrove and will be hard plumbed between each rock structure to avoid drilling holes in the glass. This change will not replace the current flow; instead, it will supplement what we have. This will allow us to turn off the powerheads that agitate the surface during business hours but still have good waste export from them throughout the late evening and early morning. We hope this will finally give us the extra flow we’re looking for and leave the water with a flat, glassy surface. The HydroTube is coming very soon, so stay tuned to our YouTube channel to see how our new plan works out!

EQUIPMENT

MAINTENANCE At WWC, we have a dedicated in-house husbandry team responsible for the success of all our display tanks, and once a week, the team gets into this tank and works its magic. The maintenance tasks include spraying down and pruning the mangrove, remounting corals for optimal placement, managing coralline algae on the overflows and rear panels, and stirring up the sand inside the tank. Every week, we do equipment maintenance and a 300-gallon water change. Equipment maintenance consists of cleaning the skimmer, checking the flow rate on the UV sterilizer, confirming the flow rate on the kalkwasser input, mixing fresh kalkwasser, verifying the output

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Lighting: (13) EcoTech Marine Radion XR30W Gen 5 LEDs, no diffusers Water Movement: (2) EcoTech Marine VorTech MP60mQDs, Panta Rhei Hydro Wizard Pro ECM 42 Return Pump: 7,000 gph return pump split into four outflow nozzles Reactors: GEO calcium reactor with CaribSea media, GEO kalkwasser reactor with Two Little Fishies kalkwasser Skimmer: Reef Octopus XP8000 UV Sterilizer: Pentair, 150 watts CORALS • • • • • • • • • •

20+ Montipora species 50+ Acropora species Trachyphyllia and Acanthophyllia zone 100+ zoanthid morphs spawning Euphyllia Jawbreaker Mushrooms WWC OG Bounce Mushrooms WWC BioHazard Bounce Mushrooms WWC Swamp Thing Bounce Mushrooms WWC Oblivion Chalice

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• • • • •

WWC Jelly Bean Chalice WWC Hot Stuff Chalice WWC Burnout Chalice WWC Kingpin Watermelon Chalice WWC Cosmic Candy Chalice

OTHER INVERTEBRATES • • • • • • • • • •

giant clam anemones (12) Cleaner Shrimp Velvet Nudibranch Mexican Turbo Snails Margarita Snails Astrea Snails Trochus Snails Strawberry Conchs Queen Conchs

FISH • • • • • • • • •

Tomini Tang Clown Tang Sailfin Tang Vlamingi Tang Aberrant Kole Tang Aberrant Scopas (aka Panda) Tang (10) Yellow Tang Convict Tang Hawaiian Naso Tang

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WWC Sunfire Grafted Cap (Montipora sp.)

• • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Glass Cardinals Red Spot Cardinals Sankeyi Dottyback (5) Blue Star Leopard Wrasse (harem) (6) White Belly Coris Wrasse (4) Hooded Fairy Wrasse (harem) (12) Springeri Damsel Tricinctus Damsel (4) Ruby Red Dragonet Copperband Butterfly Sixline Wrasse Banded Pipefish Red Scooter Blenny Cleaner Wrasse

TARGET PARAMETERS pH: 8.6* Nitrate: < 20 ppm Alkalinity: 8.3–8.9 dKH Calcium: 440–480 ppm Phosphate: < 0.1 ppm Magnesium: 1,380–1,440 ppm *elevated due to high surface area of the tank, also supplemented by adding kalkwasser If you’re in the Orlando, Florida, area and want to see this tank in person, just swing by. We love visitors! R

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When Surgery is the Only Option CHAD VOSSEN

n early May of 2013, I received a call from a local aquarist named Doug regarding his show-sized, male Scribbled Angelfish. He was concerned about the health of the fish due to what appeared to be some sort of intestinal blockage. I suggested waiting a couple of days to see if the blockage would pass on its own. When I called back to check on the fish’s status, he requested I come by and see for myself. The angelfish had not eaten in days, and the object was protruding at least an inch from the fish’s body. We caught the angelfish and attempted to remove the object with pliers, which broke the object in half. We cleaned it and determined it was metal that may have fallen from the deteriorating window screen covers. While trying to remove the remaining fragment, the fish began bleeding, so we gave up before more damage might be done. Fortunately, a few years before this, I had attended a lecture through the Minnesota Herpetological Society. The speaker was

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Dr. Amy Kizer from the Lexington Pet Clinic. She had shown us a slide show of the exotic animals she’s worked with, including fish. I had also recalled that Brian Broughten, owner of Advance Aquarium Service, had taken a puffer fish to Dr. Kizer to have a clam shell removed. His experience with the Lexington Pet Clinic was positive, so we decided to pursue surgery as an option for the angelfish. The next morning, I was back at Doug’s house to catch the Scribbled Angelfish and transport him in a large cooler to the vet clinic. We brought a bucket of extra tank water as suggested by Dr. Kizer. Upon arriving at the clinic, we took the cooler into the back and discussed the plan. She decided that surgery was going to be our last option and would first attempt to remove the object with tweezers. The staff mixed anesthetic with the salt water we had brought and waited for the angel to fall asleep. Once asleep,

The fish was transported in a large cooler.

Anesthetic salt water was given to the fish during stitching.

they took some X-rays and showed us that the angelfish had a few objects in the colon, including a rock. We waited in a room for about 20 minutes before Dr. Kizer came to let us know she couldn’t get the rock out without cutting the fish open. Even after cutting the fish open and trying to manipulate the colon to push the rock out, it would not pass. She explained that cutting the delicate tissue was the last option because it reduced the chances of survival. Our biggest fear was the colon becoming infected, which would likely cause the angelfish to die. At this point, Doug was determined to do everything possible and gave permission to proceed. Shortly after the rock and sliver of metal were removed, we were asked if we would like to help. I quickly volunteered to keep the gills aerated with the anesthetic salt water while Dr. Kizer finished the stitches. I watched as the gill movement slowed and eventually stopped. I was very concerned that I had just killed the fish during surgery. I then notified Dr. Kizer, and she had a vet technician give me some oxygenated tank water. Quickly after switching to oxygenated water, the gills started to move again. I was relieved to see the angelfish was still alive. As I continued administering water over the gills, the breathing continued to increase in frequency. Then suddenly, just as the last stitch was nearly finished, the angelfish woke up and nearly flopped off the table. We had to hold him down just long enough to finish the last stitch and apply an ointment before returning the angel back to the cooler. For a while, Doug and I watched the angelfish sit motionless in the cooler, upside down. Clearly, there was some air trapped inside Reef Hobbyist Magazine

his prized fish. This show-sized Scribbled Angelfish had been out of the water for about an hour. It was amazing knowing what it had just been through. Dr. Kizer explained to us that the angelfish had maybe a 10 percent chance of survival due to the nature of the surgery and its close proximity to bacteriarich tank water. She showed us how to give the fish a Baytril injection to help fight infection and gave us enough prefilled needles to last the week. On the way home, Doug and I discussed what to do next. The filtration system on the display tank was far superior to what the quarantine system had, so we decided to build an eggcrate cage large enough to give the angelfish room to swim and protect it from the other fish in the tank. Once back at Doug’s home, we built the eggcrate cage and lowered the angelfish into the tank. I gave it the first injection of Baytril without much complication. We covered the middle section of the tank to shade the angelfish during his recovery. Later that night, Doug called me to say the angelfish was now swimming upright and that the anesthesia had worn off. I got a call from Doug a few days later explaining that the angelfish had learned that being caught would result in an injection. The angelfish was now much stronger and was able to avoid being caught. After our conversation, I came up with an acrylic brace that would slide over the fish and hold him still for the injection. When I delivered it, we tried it on the angelfish with great success. Unfortunately, it only took a few days for the angelfish to learn a new trick: lying on its side to avoid the brace. Luckily, the injections were finished. There was a minor infection at the edge of the wound, but it was healing very well. Doug caught the angelfish and removed the stitches himself, and a month later, all that remained was a scar. For many of us, treating a sick fish means setting up a hospital tank and dosing medication in hope of recovery. In the rare case, the dedicated aquarist will have the means to treat a fish to medical services typically reserved for cats and dogs. This surgery cost about $500, which is around what it would cost to purchase a mediumsized Scribbled Angelfish. This angelfish was a family pet and was not easily replaceable. When practical, we should all give our aquarium inhabitants the best care possible, regardless of the expense. R

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The point of incision close up

The eggcrate cage provided protection from other fish during recovery.