Reef Hobbyist Magazine Q2 2018

SECOND QUARTER 2018 I VOLUME 12

BREEDING & REARING

LYRETAIL ANTHIAS

HUNTING ZOA-EATING NUDIBRANCHS SOFT CORAL FRAGGING GUIDE REEF SPOTLIGHTS: MEXICO CITY REEF, SHROOM LAGOON & CUNHA REEF

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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FEATURES 6

MEXICO CITY REEF Andres Corral is a veteran reefkeeper who believes that reef tanks are ambassadors for wild reefs, which many people rarely get to see. Here, he shares his personal 250-gallon mixed reef aquarium.

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THE INTERRUPTUS ANGEL: A CENTROPYGE CENTERPIECE Colby Podkin-Johnson is an all-around fish nerd and the owner of Pacific Island Aquatics. Learn how to choose and care for this coveted and beautiful pygmy angelfish.

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SHROOM LAGOON Darwin Ngo is a co-founder of Legendary Corals and lives in San Jose, CA. After transitioning through a couple of different nanos, Darwin finally found one that was just right. Share his love for a tank of different dimensions in this intriguing writeup.

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A ZOA FREAK'S NUDIBRANCH HUNTING GUIDE Josue Matias is the moderator of Club Zoa on Reef2Reef.

Josue will show you how to plan and execute your next zoa-eating nudibranch hunt in this detailed guide.

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SECOND QUARTER 2018 | Volume 12 Copyright © 2018 Reef Hobbyist Magazine. All rights reserved.

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ON THE COVER BREEDING & REARING LYRETAIL ANTHIAS Ramon Villaverde is a professional aquarist who has worked at the Columbus Zoo and Aquarium for over 14 years. His latest success in marine breeding is with the ever-popular Lyretail Anthias. Learn what it takes to breed this beautiful species and about the challenges faced by the Columbus Zoo team.

Cover image by Stephan Kerkhofs

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A GUIDE TO FRAGGING SOFT CORALS Michael Rice is the marketing director at Elite Reef in Denver, CO. New to fragging? Michael will walk you through your first attempt with these step-bystep instructions on four easy-to-frag soft corals.

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THE CUNHA REEF Paulo Cunha is a new reef hobbyist from Vila do Conde, Portugal. Passion, creativity, and a willingness to learn from good advice has allowed Paulo to succeed with his very first reef. Share in his journey from non-aquarist to fully immersed reefkeeper.

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PRODUCT REVIEW: VCA'S RANDOM FLOW GENERATOR Jim Adelberg is executive editor for RHM and breeds marine fish in his spare time. See how VCA's mission of combining two essential concepts of water movement in one device holds up to Jim's test.

Reef-A-Palooza (FL): April 7–8, Orlando, FL – www.reefapaloozashow.net ReefSMART: April 21, Raleigh, NC – www.sustainablereef.com LMAR Frag Swap: April 29, San Antonio, TX – www.maast.org Ladies Frag Swapping: May 12, Sturgis, MI – www.ladiesfragswapping.weebly.com Florida Frag Swap: June 2, Hialeah, FL – www.flfragswap.com Reef-A-Palooza (NY): June 23–24, Secaucus, NJ – www.reefapaloozashow.net Summer Charity Frag Swap: July 28, N. Canton, OH – www.oceanriftaquatics.com MACNA 2018: September 7–9, Las Vegas, NV – www.macnaconference.org/2018/ Reef-A-Palooza (LA): October 6–7, Anaheim, CA – www.reefapaloozashow.net Reef League: October 20, Jacksonville, FL – www.reefleague.com

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ANDRES CORRAL

MEXICO CITY REEF BACKGROUND AND HISTORY My parents had a freshwater aquarium when I was a kid. I can remember that every once in a while, we would go after school to the local fish store to choose a new fish or plant for the tank. One day when I was 13, I finally got tired of hearing, "Oh sorry, that one is a marine fish. You can't have it in your tank," so I asked what I needed to do to set up a marine aquarium.

The guy wisely handed me a book, and that's when it all started for me.

At that time, there was not much information available about how to keep marine or reef aquariums. Before the internet, the learning curve was different, and it was a slow process of learning, sometimes from experts you'd find along the way, sometimes from literature, and often from trial and error.

I have gone through various phases in the hobby. The first consisted of two fish-only aquariums and one FOWLR (fish only with live rock) with some inverts as a teen, followed by my first reef in college, and then another reef aquarium when I moved out of my parents' house. Later, I got married, and my wife and I began our first reef aquarium as newlyweds. As a family, we upgraded to a 400-gallon reef aquarium, and eventually, that brought me to start planning this 250-gallon reef tank 2 years ago.

The most important lesson I learned with the 400-gallon tank was that my aquarium needed to be placed somewhere I could not only see it but be able to really enjoy it. The 400-gallon tank was located in the entryway of the house, so I looked at it every time I came and went, but neither I, my family, nor my guests were able to sit there and enjoy it. Based on that realization,

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The aquarium sits between the living room, bar, and TV room.

we decided to redesign the first level of our house around the new aquarium.

It took almost a year to design the new floor plan and the aquarium system itself. The main objective was to be able to enjoy it from the TV room, living room, bar, and dining room. At the same time, I wanted to make the system aesthetically pleasing, not only the display of the fish and corals but also the details of the stand and lighting so that they complemented the house perfectly.

needed to have three viewing sides. The height was planned for it to be better appreciated when seated, but if you're standing, you can easily open the top and look at it from above.

I am also using a CO2 scrubber at the air inlet of the skimmer to try to bring the pH up a little bit since the aquarium is fully enclosed and located in the middle of the house. In the cold season, the CO2

SPECIFICATIONS Display: ~48" Ă— 43" Ă— 30" Cabinet: custom Substrate: CaribSea Bermuda Pink Sand Rock: cured dry rock and old rock from the 400-gallon tank Salt: Instant Ocean with custom adjustments Circulation: (2) Maxspect Gyre Return Pump: (2) EcoTech Vectra M1 with battery backup Calcium Supply: Geo 618 reactor, Milwaukee pH controller, Avast Marine kalkwasser reactor, Milwaukee peristaltic pump Monitoring: Neptune Apex for pH, power, water level Skimmer: Deltec AP702 Heating: (2) titanium heaters Lighting: (4) RapidLED Corona, (1) DIY LED lamp (9 channels using CREE, SemiLED, and OSRAM LEDs powered by Meanwell drivers) PAR: ~420 just below surface, 100 at sandbed Overflow: Reef Synergy Shadow Mechanical Filtration: (3) filter socks Refugium: live rock and Chaetomorpha lit by DIY grow lights Auto Top-off: 2-liter system with float valve and optical sensors THE AQUARIUM The aquarium sits in the absolute center of the house as a central pillar surrounded by the areas we use the most as a family, so it Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Calcium reactor, skimmer, CO2 scrubber, and return pumps

accumulates quickly and the pH drops substantially, so I use the scrubber to counteract that effect.

I have a 50-gallon quarantine tank in my home office set up as a permanent tank so I can closely observe new arrivals. Everything goes through quarantine without exception.

- Radioactive Candy Cane - Meteor Shower Cyphastrea - Acropora · Cali Tortuosa · Ice Tortuosa · Oregon Tortuosa · Staghorn (blue tip) · Staghorn (purple) · Green Slimer · Pearlberry Acropora - Montipora · Montipora vietnamensis · Montipora digitata · Montipora capricornis

· Bonsai Acropora · Red Planet Acropora · Bubble Gum Millepora · Acropora sp. (tabling) · Acropora nasuta · Acropora valida · Montipora confusa · Rainbow Montipora · Superman Montipora

PARAMETERS Phosphate: 0.02–0.08 ppm Nitrate: 2.5–5.0 ppm Magnesium: 1500 ppm Calcium: 450 ppm

KH: 11° Potassium: 600–800 ppm Strontium: 10 mg/L

FISH HUSBANDRY - (4) Percula Clownfish - (4) Blue Streak Cardinalfish - (2) Yellow Tangs - Blue Tang - Purple Tang - Kole Tang - Randall's Goby

- Mandarinfish (pair) - Cleaner Wrasse - Neon Wrasse - Flasher Wrasse - Yellowtail Damselfish - Swissguard Basslet

INVERTEBRATES - (2) Skunk Cleaner Shrimp - Scarlet Shrimp - Clown Crab

- turbo snails - Blue-legged Hermits - Red-legged Hermits

CORALS - Christmas Favia - Bubble Coral - Galaxea - Duncan

- Hawkins Echinata - Nuclear Green Palys - various zoanthids - various mushrooms

Kole Tang

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I try to keep things as simple and hands-off as possible. I want to be able to enjoy the tank and not be a slave to it. From a strategy standpoint, if it's not broken, I don't fix it. That includes dosing, water changes, temperature adjustments, coral growth, etc.

I test for calcium, magnesium, KH, strontium, potassium, nitrate, and phosphate on a weekly basis. Sometimes I skip a week, and based on testing, I take corrective actions with individual additives or feeding adjustments to keep everything in line. I also dose iron in the form of planted-tank fertilizer. I have found that the Chaetomorpha color and growth is a much better indicator of iron levels than any iron test kit out there.

Every aquarium is different. This tank tends to run low on nutrients, so to maintain a minimum level of nutrients and keep the corals from looking pale, I feed a lot to the fish and corals.

Every time I pass by the tank, I throw in a generous amount of pellets and flakes. Additionally, at least three times a week, I feed Purple Tang

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Bubble Gum Millepora

Christmas Favia

Montipora confusa and Meteor Shower Cyphastrea

Hawkins Echinata

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homemade frozen coral food containing oysters, shrimp, mussels, clams, nori, spirulina, sugar, and Blackworms; I feed it early in the morning with the lights still out and leave the filtration off for 30 minutes.

My corals have been growing at a very fast rate in this tank, especially the Cali Tortuosa that is heavily dominating the landscape. After the initial setup, I bought a fairly large frag pack that got glued into the tank and was left to grow. Today, almost all of these frags are medium-sized colonies with great coloration.

As I said, I love a hands-off approach, so I have let the reef grow in and just observed the progress. Now, some corals are starting to reach neighboring corals, so I need to go in and rearrange things a little bit.

FUTURE PLANS My plans for the future revolve around transforming this reef to a more diverse Acropora-dominated habitat. I also want to replace some large Cali Tortuosa colonies with other types and colors of Acropora. As corals continue to grow, I find that the aquarium is starting to get shadows in some areas, so I am sure I will need to add some spotlights to target these dark zones. I will also need to upgrade my calcium and carbonate supply system. Today, the calcium reactor and kalkwasser-dosing system are almost maxed out, so I am already looking for options on that upgrade.

Green Slimer and Stylophora sp.

As the years pass by and I continue to get more and more involved in the aquarium hobby and community, I look forward to great things to come for our hobby. We have to start considering more collection and commerce restrictions for sure, but I am confident that those restrictions will help drive transformation in the hobby to a much more sustainable activity and perhaps even drive it more toward a protection and conservation effort ranging from education and awareness to direct reef recovery.

R

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Female Interruptus Angelfish

COLBY PODKIN-JOHNSON

THE INTERRUPTUS ANGELFISH: CENTROPYGE

T

he illustrious Interruptus Angel (Centropyge interrupta), often called the Japanese Pygmy Angel, is the uncontested heavyweight of its genus and is highly coveted by aquarists. It is one of the most sought after pygmy angels due to its spectacular looks and stellar personality. Moreover, it is one of the best bets when searching for a reef-safe dwarf angel. Reaching sizes of over 6 inches in length and sporting iridescent blues on a base of burnt orange, they are true show fish. Like many of the rarer angelfish, they follow the same inverse price structure, with the smallest juveniles commanding prices of $2,400 or more and larger adults being

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priced at a "modest" $1,600 or so. But don't let the price tag scare you away. These fish are well worth the expense!

NATURAL HISTORY Interruptus Angels are found in central and southern Japan, as well as the northwestern Hawaiian Islands. They live in habitats ranging from coral reefs to volcanic boulder fields. In complex habitats containing many crevices and overhangs, a single male Interruptus's territory may contain several females. However, in more barren habitats, they are often found in pairs.

Algae is an important part of the diet. A good way to train newly imported Interruptus Angels to eat algal sheets is by rubber banding some onto a small length of PVC. This species also seems to benefit from the ability to graze on diatom growth on the sandbed.

Young juveniles spend most of their time closely hugging the substrate, avoiding predation by remaining under cover and feeding primarily on diatoms and algae growing on the rocks. This habit makes them more difficult to catch, thereby increasing the price of smaller individuals.

One of the most fascinating aspects of Interruptus Angel behavior is their changing diets as they mature. Large specimens are often found high in the water column, selectively feeding on the feces of schooling zooplanktivores.

CARE REQUIREMENTS When shopping for an Interruptus Angel, it is very important to seek out a healthy, robust specimen. Interruptus has a poor track record for long-term survival in captivity, so it is crucial to only purchase animals that have been properly quarantined and conditioned.

Thankfully, many of the issues historically experienced with Interruptus Angels have been overcome through better collection methods and a more thorough understanding of their requirements.

Success with this species is becoming more commonplace, and contrary to popular belief, the uber-expensive juveniles are not the only ones that can thrive long term in captivity. Provided they have been properly conditioned, larger specimens have proven quite adaptable to aquarium life.

Freshly imported Interruptus Angels often arrive with a heavy gill fluke infestation, in addition to a full intestinal parasite load.

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Capturing and moving the animal with an appropriate-sized vessel allows for close inspection while avoiding damage to the slime coat or skin.

Seeking an animal from a dealer who is familiar with proper quarantine procedures will go far in ensuring long-term success with this species. If you decide to pursue an Interruptus, be sure to examine the eyes for clarity and watch for any fin twitching, flashing, scratching, or any other possible indicators of an underlying parasitic infection. Additionally, watch the fish until you observe it defecate. The feces should not be long and stringy but should resemble loose and crumbly pellets. Healthy Interruptus Angels are very gregarious animals that will often charge to the front of the tank when they see a human approach. I have not decided if these fish are threatening me or begging for food! Even freshly imported specimens display extreme boldness and a reliable willingness to eat virtually any food offered. Any Interruptus Angel that hides in a corner, is lethargic, or refuses to eat is surely unwell and should be passed over.

Given the natural range of this species, it is likely wise to cycle their temperature annually. In their natural range, Interruptus Angels may experience temperature swings from low 60s (Fahrenheit) in the winter to mid 80s at the peak of summer. I have found maintaining Interruptus in the low to mid 70s works well. Having said that, I am aware of more than a dozen pairs of adult animals I have quarantined for clients that are happily living and spawning in reef tanks at typical reef tank temperatures.

Among all the factors that are likely critical to success, diet is one of the most crucial. Most of the problems experienced with these fish seem to be related to intestinal infections, likely bacterial. It seems probable that this is largely a dietary problem, with most of the animals experiencing bloat-like symptoms. While Interruptus Angels seem quite happy to eat just about anything offered, their diet should consist mainly of algae, supplemented with meaty foods. I have seen many instances of these angelfish being fed an improper diet, leading to fatty liver syndrome. I feed my pairs with sheets of algae two to three times daily, supplemented with a homemade seafood mix two to three times per week. This species can be prone to constipation, particularly when maintained on a pellet diet. If you do choose to feed pellets, I would suggest using a high-quality food and supplementing with frozen Mysis and Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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This specimen is a clear example of a male, displaying the characteristic electric blue dorsal and anal fins.

Artemia; the chitin in these foods will aid in moving food through the digestive tract.

BREEDING If keeping one Interruptus Angel is a treat, keeping a pair is even better. In fact, I feel these fish absolutely should be kept in pairs, as the spawning dance and mating sequence is truly a sight to behold. Having witnessed many pairs of angelfish spawn, I think the Interruptus dance is among the most beautiful. I find that my pairs begin spawning when the temperature approaches 72° F and the daylight reaches 10 to 11 hours a day. I have had some pairs spawning slightly earlier in the spring when the water was still a little cooler. Most days, my pairs begin the spawning sequence just before lights out. Interestingly, I have a pair in a tank immediately adjacent to a window, and on cloudy days, they will spawn a little bit earlier. I presume this is due to the darker evenings.

Most nights, the male will initiate courtship, though it can be initiated by the female as well. It begins with the male blanching in color, often turning a very subtle orange and flashing the bright iridescent blue on the tips of his dorsal and anal fins. As he pales in color, the male will move into the water column, tilting his body

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horizontally at a slight angle and fully extending all his fins. He then dives and soars about the tank in an attempt to impress the female, occasionally taking a break to quiver slightly or chase the female around. If the female is receptive, she will join the male in the water column and they will begin mutually soaring and alternately chasing each other. As the dance progresses, if the female is ripe with eggs, she and the male will begin nuzzling and chasing in earnest, finally culminating in a quick dash to the surface and the release of gametes. I have witnessed on many occasions an abbreviated version of this dance in which the female engages, seemingly half-heartedly, and produces no eggs. I suspect she is simply leading the male on in order to maintain her position in his territory.

CONCLUSION If you are in the market for a centerpiece fish, the Interruptus Angel is an excellent choice. They are typically very reef-safe, brilliantly colored, and not aggressive. Their rarity does mean you may have to search for a while, and the price tag can be somewhat daunting.

However, a well-conditioned and happy Interruptus Angel (or pair) cruising around in a reef tank is a spectacular sight to behold and well worth it for any serious collector.

R

DARWIN NGO

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ey there reefers! Let's start with a little bit of my background in this hobby. My father introduced my siblings and me to aquariums at an early age.

I ended up being the geekiest about fish, taking my father's passion of fishkeeping and making it my own. I started reefing with a small NanoCube 12. In that small nano, I was only able to house a pair of black clowns and a small blenny. At the time, nanos were a new concept and most equipment was still geared toward larger tanks. I learned the benefits of weekly water changes and that stability was the key to a healthy reef. I also learned about some of the restrictions of a small tank, like only being able to keep a minimal number of fish and having relatively few equipment choices. Eventually, I outgrew my NanoCube. A Solana 25 popped up at a good price, and my next tank adventure began. A new and bigger tank meant a clean slate and, more importantly, more equipment options.

After only a few months with my Solana, I decided I needed a different tank since the back chambers of the Solana 25 were too small for my taste, and the tank itself was too tall and narrow to create the aquascape I wanted. But I decided to continue with nano aquariums for two reasons. First, most of the equipment I had could be repurposed, saving me money. Second, if I couldn't succeed with a small aquarium, I didn't think I could necessarily do better with a larger one.

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THE NUVO LAGOON 25: A FRESH START I ended up purchasing a Nuvo Lagoon 25 for its clean look, reasonable price, and most importantly, its dimensions. I fell in love with this tank the moment I saw it. It was unlike any other nano, and with its extended length, it allowed me to create a pleasing two-island look, something I could never achieve with my previous tanks. It was also shallow, making it easy to fill up the vertical space and give the tank a filled-in look. I was able to reuse most of the equipment from my previous tanks. However, I replaced my previous LED lighting with T5s. I know it sounds odd to switch from LEDs to T5s, but there's something about using long-proven technology that gives me some assurance of success. I also felt that there was something missing in the color rendition of LEDs, and I never got the look I wanted from my corals and fish. This change in lighting turned out to be a good decision. My zoas that were the size of a pencil head soon became nearly dime sized. Mushrooms started to expand to cover the rock, and coral growth skyrocketed. The soft look and even spread of the T5 lighting eliminated the shadowing effect of the LEDs and made my reef tank look‌well‌more like a reef. I also added some ReefBrite LEDs to bring back that actinic "pop." I had the best of both worlds.

One of my past mistakes with the NanoCube and Solana was that I had purchased corals based on how they looked individually.

Full tank shot of the Nuvo Lagoon 25

After purchasing a coral and tanking it, I would soon realize it had no real place in the overall aquascape. The coral would either look odd in the limited space I had left to mount it, or there was already a coral in the tank that was visually too similar. If I was to achieve my goal of creating a proper reef, I had to change the way I purchased corals. After hardscaping my Nuvo, I took a photo of the rockwork and began planning out my vision for the tank. I would now look at any potential coral purchase and reflect on where it would be placed in my tank and what it would add in terms of the overall aesthetic.

the corals. Having a diverse cleanup crew also allowed me to keep nuisance algae in check. Additionally, adding these inverts made my tank feel more like a small piece of the ocean, which was my goal.

Another lesson I learned from my past builds and years of reefkeeping was that it required my sustained, regular attention.

I needed to choose my livestock and build my tank around a maintenance schedule that I could commit to. This revelation led me to focus on soft corals and a few LPS (large-polyped stonies) as my main livestock. If I chose to keep mostly soft corals, the depletion of major and trace elements in the tank would be minimized. Soft corals are also more forgiving when changes in water parameters occur. A few Euphyllia were chosen to create texture and add movement to the tank. A small Birdsnest frag was added as a canary to let me know when the tank needed attention.

I aim for weekly water changes but sometimes stretch it to once every few weeks. Keeping low-maintenance corals was easily the best decision I made. It made the hobby enjoyable again rather than being a chore.

I also wanted to create diversity in my tank and keep more than just corals, so I added a Tridacna derasa clam, Coco Worms, and Rock Flower Anemones. I also added a variety of hermit crabs and snails. I avoided shrimp because I've had issues in the past with them plucking food out of corals' mouths and ultimately injuring Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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For fish choices, I was limited in what I could keep since it was a nano. I knew I could only keep a few fish, so I splurged a bit. I was fortunate enough to secure two of my dream fish: a Candy Basslet and, more importantly, a baby Joculator Angelfish, the one fish I'd always wanted as a child. With these two fish forming the focus of the tank, I added two other fish that would occupy areas of the tank where the angel and basslet don't usually swim. I chose a Midas Blenny (which I love for its puppy-like personality) to hop along the rocks and a Yellow Coris Wrasse (which contributes to pest control) to swim through the nooks and crannies.

With the addition of these fish, my tank had movement everywhere. That pretty much sums up how my tank got to where it is today. Listed below is my current equipment and livestock.

Candy Basslet

TANK SPECS Display: Innovative Marine Nuvo Lagoon 25 Lighting: ATI 24" Dimmable SunPower (3 Blue Plus, 1 Coral Plus), (2) ReefBrite 24" XHO Blue LED Heater: Cobalt Neotherm 100 watt Circulation: Sicce 1.5 (return pump), (2) EcoTech MP10s, Innovative Marine Auqa Gadget Spin Stream Skimmer: Eshopps PSK-100H Filter Media: ChemiPure Blue, filter floss Back Chamber Filtration: (2) inTank filter floss holders, MarinePure Ceramic Biomedia Plate Back Chamber Refugium: inTank Fuge Basket, JBJ Nano-Glo 4-LED refugium light, chaeto Top-off: Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155 Dosing: Bubble Magus BM-T11, ESV B-Ionic Components (alk, ca, mag) Rock: Jestersix custom scape, Real Reef Rock LIVESTOCK Joculator Angelfish Midas Blenny

FISH - Joculator Angelfish (Centropyge joculator) - Candy Basslet (Liopropoma carmabi) - Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas) - Yellow Coris Wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus) SOFT CORALS - Rhodactis spp.

- Discosoma spp.

- various zoanthids - Ricordea florida HARD CORALS - Blastomussa merletti - Echinopora spp. (chalices) - Scolymia sp.

- Frogspawn (Euphyllia divisa) - Hammer (Euphyllia ancora)

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Rock Flower Anemones

- Torches (Euphyllia glabrescens) - Dendros (Dendrophyllia sp.)

- Walking Dendro (Heteropsammia cochlea) INVERTEBRATES - Flower Anemones (Epicystis crucifer) - Derasa Clam (Tridacna derasa) - Coco Worms (Protula bispiralis) - Nassarius Snails (Nassarius sp.)

- Fighting Conches (Strombus sp.)

- Astrea Snails (Astraea tecta)

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Dendros

- Cerith Snails (Cerithium sp.)

- Banded Trochus Snails (Trochus sp.)

- Halloween Hermits (Ciliopagurus strigatus) - Blue Knuckle Hermits (Calcinus elegans) - Blue Leg Hermits (Clibanarius tricolor) - Scarlet Hermits (Paguristes cadenati) WORDS OF WISDOM • Unlike some other hobbies, reefing involves keeping live animals, which means constant attention all year round. Make sure that you

Frankenstein Mushroom

Tie Dye Mushroom

plan your maintenance to be as simple as possible to allow for the busier times you'll have later in life. It's good to have a few tanks and photos to inspire you, but it's best to be realistic about what you can accomplish.

• Join a local club and visit one of the reefing events in your area. If there isn't a local show, think about visiting one of the larger ones (MACNA or Reef-A-Palooza). Attending a huge convention that's dedicated to our hobby is mind-blowing. Being social is such a huge part of any hobby, and making friends who share your reefing passion will help keep you motivated.

• Photograph your tank! As time goes by, you'll be able to reflect back on your tank's evolution and see what you've accomplished over the years. Seeing a photo of your tank in its prime will also help keep you motivated when your tank goes through harder times. By reflecting on your progress, you can see what you liked and disliked about your past choices, helping you move forward in a deliberate way. Photography also brings another aspect to this hobby, and taking photos of your reef can be just as enjoyable as viewing it.

• Most importantly, have patience. Nothing comes fast in this hobby. Our hobby is unlike any other, with many challenges but also great rewards.

• I'd like to say that it took only a year for my tank to look like this, but in hindsight, it's the culmination of nearly a decade of experiences. I hope you enjoyed my article and gained something new from my experiences.

R Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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JOSUE MATIAS

A ZOA FREAK’S

NUDIBRANCH HUNTING GUIDE

H

ello everyone‌Joshporksandwich, zoa freak here.

A lot has happened since my last RHM article: I went from five tanks to two, I killed all my zoanthids through a mistake of my own, and finally, I removed all of the tanks from my house and relocated them to a shed in the back of my house. It's been a bumpy ride, to say the least. In this article, I will discuss the zoanthid-eating nudibranch, the biggest nightmare that I've encountered since I got my first tank in October 2011. But don't despair; I'll also discuss the protocol I used to eradicate these pests from my system.

Hobbyists always tell me that my zoanthids look amazing, and they think that everything in my system looks perfect, but I go through the same struggles that everyone else does. I buy many

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colonies, and regardless of how careful I am, some pests always sneak into my system. There are pests that can irritate and sting your zoanthids and keep them from thriving, and then there are pests that can destroy your zoanthids altogether. Some from this latter group include fish, zoanthid-eating spiders, zoanthid-eating nudibranchs, Aiptasia, Mojanos, and hydroids.

Of all the pests I've encountered over the years, the one that has had the most devastating effect on my corals is the zoanthideating nudibranch. Zoanthid-eating nudibranchs start by chomping down on the skirt (or tentacles) of the zoanthid. This can cause the zoanthid to get an infection and rot. If the zoanthid survives the initial attack and doesn't become infected, the nudibranch continues eating the zoanthid from the center out. There are lots of

These zoa-eating nudibranchs reflect the fluorescent colors of the zoanthids they were eating.

treatments available, including chemical options, but none of them kill nudibranch eggs. The method that has worked best for me is the most time consuming and unorthodox: physically hunting and removing the nudibranchs and their eggs.

To hunt nudibranchs, you will need to gather a few items. First, you'll need a pair of orange shop glasses like the ones people use to look at corals. Second, you'll need a blue LED flashlight or a blue LED that you can hold with one hand, like a Kessil 180. Third, you'll need a turkey baster (make sure not to use the one from

Nudibranch hunting kit

the kitchen drawer). Once you have all your equipment ready, you must wait at least 2 hours after your lights have turned off to begin your hunt.

When you are ready to begin the nudibranch hunt, point the flashlight at one colony or section of your tank. You will see those little suckers light up like fireflies. Nudibranchs have an amazing characteristic: they reflect the color of the zoanthid they're eating.

So if they're eating a Scrambled-egg Zoa, they will glow bright yellow. If they eat a Radioactive Dragon-eye, they will glow bright

These R2R Princess Oxana zoas are missing tentacles, a sign that zoa-eating nudibranchs may be lurking.

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The top circle shows a closed zoanthid that has been damaged by a nudibranch.

The lower circle shows a tiny red spot, which is a baby nudibranch.

green. To begin, squeeze all the air out of the baster and insert the baster into the tank. Once you see a nudibranch, point the tip of your baster at it and suck it up.

dozens in one area, the easiest way to remove them is to take the coral out of the water. If the zoanthid's polyps are still open, shake it a little and try to force the polyps to close. At times, I've had to use my hands to force them closed (always use gloves and safety glasses when handling zoas). Rinse the zoanthids with sink water.

Start with the big ones first since they are the ones that lay the eggs. If you focus on the small ones first, the big ones might be laying dozens of egg spirals just in the short time you're hunting the small ones. Once all the big ones have been captured, move on to the medium ones.

Since you are doing this with the lights off, the zoanthids will be closed. The only thing that will shine bright through your orange glasses should be the nudibranchs. Try not to spend too much time lighting one area or your zoanthids will start to open, making it harder to spot any remaining nudibranchs.

Once you have removed all the larger nudibranchs, it's time to hunt for the eggs and babies. Look closely at the closed polyps. If you see a bunch of shiny little spots on them, you are looking at baby nudibranchs. Proceed with the same process of sucking them all out. When you are dealing with

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These zoa-eating nudibranchs reflect the fluorescent colors of the zoanthids they were eating.

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Do not worry; the zoanthids should be safely closed and protected by their outer skin.

This Bowser's tentacles just became a nudibranch's snack.

Nudibranch eggs do not glow, so you will need to look for a spiral pattern to identify eggs for removal.

This JPS Infusion Rainbow has all of its tentacles intact, a sign of a healthy colony devoid of any pests.

Once the babies are eliminated, the next target is the eggs. Note that the eggs will not glow, so you will need to look very closely for spiral patterns on the zoanthids. The best method for removing eggs on a zoanthid is to use a toothpick and gently scrape the eggs from the zoanthid's flesh. Inside the tank, you can use the same method, but use the baster to suck up any loose eggs that get scraped off. Besides manual removal, the other method I use is a natural one: fish. Over the years, I've tried many wrasses, and all my tanks have a mix of wrasses now. The best nudi-eating fish, in my opinion, are Six-line Wrasses (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia), Melanurus Wrasses (Halichoeres melanurus), Yellow Coris Wrasses (Halichoeres chrysus), and Twin Spot Wrasses (Coris aygula).

While fish can be a great aid in helping control nudibranch outbreaks, fish alone will not eradicate this problem.

It takes weeks to really start seeing a difference. Once the nudibranchs seem to have disappeared, look to the corals to tell you if the problem has been completely eliminated. If you see a beautiful colony of zoanthids fully open with the exception of a few polyps, that's a sign that the problem persists. Also, look at the skirts of the zoanthids. If they're missing tentacles, that's another clear sign that nudibranchs are still present. And remember, the more time you spend hunting for nudibranchs, the quicker you will get rid of them.

The best way to have happy, healthy zoanthids is to observe them daily.

The sooner you spot a problem, the faster you can put a solution in place.

If you have any further questions about this topic, you can contact me at Reef2Reef. Go to the zoanthids section and tag me in a post. I would like to thank Reef Hobbyist Magazine for allowing me yet another opportunity to share my experiences, and I hope that it helps you keep your sea flowers alive and happy. R

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Stephan Kerkhofs 123RF

BREEDING AND REARING LYRETAIL ANTHIAS AT THE COLUMBUS ZOO AND AQUARIUM

RAMON VILLAVERDE

O

ne of my recent aquaculture achievements at work has been the rearing of Lyretail Anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis). There were many challenges in rearing these pelagic larvae, some of which included identifying and sourcing live foods, collecting eggs, setting up a rearing system, water quality, and of course, all the time involved. Overcoming these and other challenges made the success of settling these colorful little fish very rewarding.

I also cultured Apocyclops panamensis and Euterpina acutifrons, two other species of copepods. These were added to the feeding regimen about a week after I started to feed with Parvocalanus.

The first challenge in any aquaculture attempt of pelagic marine ornamentals is food. Having the right type and amount of food can be difficult. Many pelagic larvae hatch out underdeveloped and do not eat for the first few days. Once they develop internal organs and a functional mouth, the first food of choice is newly hatched copepod nauplii. I cultured Parvocalanus crassirostris for their small nauplii.

With live foods under control, the next challenge was collecting pelagic eggs from an exhibit that has varying water levels. The exhibit is approximately 800 gallons with two Carlson surge devices.

The solution was to make a pelagic egg collector that floated on the surface and was tethered to the sides of the exhibit, keeping it relatively stationary. I placed the egg collector in the system around

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In order to raise enough live copepods, I needed to grow live algae.

I cultured over 30 gallons of algae, including Nannochloropsis sp., Rhodomonas sp., Isochrysis sp., and Tetraselmis sp. Each type of algae has its own nutritional benefits, so I fed a variety of algae to the copepods to enrich them.

Egg collector

Eggs and detritus before separation

Viable eggs floating at the surface

3:30 p.m. each day before leaving work. The next day, after doing some of my morning duties, I would harvest and clean up the eggs that were collected overnight.

The process of harvesting the eggs started with pulling the collector out of the exhibit. The eggs were then rinsed into a 250 micron sieve. There was usually other debris collected with the eggs, such as algae, amphipods, and detritus. Everything collected in the sieve was rinsed into a 250 ml beaker to begin the cleaning process. All the viable fertilized eggs floated to the surface while unwanted material sank down to the bottom of the Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Top view of MOLAR tank, center drain, and air ring

MOLAR system

beaker. After about 10 minutes, the eggs were decanted into another beaker and the unwanted material was rinsed down the drain. The eggs were then sterilized with a 1 percent iodine solution using 1 ml iodine/1 L of water. The eggs stayed in this iodine bath for 10 minutes to kill any remaining unwanted amphipods, ciliates, algae, and bacteria. After the eggs were sterilized, they were poured into a screen and rinsed with clean saltwater before being placed into their rearing tank.

pseudo-kreisels, cone tanks, and black round tanks. It's important to choose a design that will keep the larvae from getting beaten up while also keeping them in suspension.

Fortunately for me, I was able to participate in a larval workshop several years ago hosted

by New England Aquarium and Roger Williams University. Every participant's organization was given an aquaculture starter kit (MOLAR system) specifically designed to raise larval fish. The MOdular LArval Rearing system's main feature is the design of the tank's adjustable water flow and drainage screens. The larval tanks are black round tubs (BRT) made of fiberglass. The drain is a specially made micron screen with an air ring around it. The screen screws into a central bulkhead on the bottom of the tank. The air ring is adjustable from zero to high airflow. The air creates a circular water pattern around the central drain, helping to keep the delicate larvae suspended in the water, as well as keeping the larvae off the drainage screen.

Rearing the Larvae

There are lots of different theories and methods around larval rearing. The ultimate goal is to raise as many healthy fish as one can in the easiest way possible. I will not cover every method, but truthfully, I used a combination of methods that work for me. I will highlight some of these processes from eggs to newly settled fish.

There are several tank designs to choose from for larval rearing, such as kreisels, Zero days post hatch

10–12 days post hatch

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18–19 days post hatch

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20–21 days post hatch

25–26 days post hatch

In the grow-out tanks, I monitor four main parameters: water quality, air flow, food supply, and water turbidity. These all affect the larvae's health and behavior, so it is not always easy to pinpoint which one is having what specific effect. It's a learning process and can only be accomplished with daily observation and fine adjustments.

Water quality is important for any aquarium system. Fish larvae, though, are less forgiving than adult animals. When the eggs were placed into the rearing system, I tried to closely match the salinity and temperature to the water they came from. Ammonia and nitrite levels were kept below 0.1 mg/L, pH around 8–8.1, temperature around 79–81° F, and salinity at 34–36 ppt. Waste and biological processes decrease the oxygen exchange across the surface of the water by creating an oily film on the surface. This film needed to be removed manually. I did this by laying sheets of paper towels on the surface and moving them across the surface to attach to the film.

Air was supplied to the larval tanks with a ring-shaped air diffuser around the central drainage screen. The air ring helped keep oxygen levels stable and kept the larvae suspended in the water column.

The amount of airflow varied from low to high depending on the behavior of the larvae. I kept the airflow low during hatching and the first few days of development when the larvae were more sensitive to disturbances. If the larvae were lying on the bottom, the air was increased to keep them suspended in the water. As the larvae became stronger and better swimmers, the airflow was increased, but if they were being tumbled around too much, it was decreased.

A benefit of the air supply surrounding the central drainage screen was that it helped keep larvae and food from getting sucked onto

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32–33 days post hatch

the screen. Needless to say, air adjustment was one of the daily tasks, and it needed to be monitored carefully.

Providing the right amount of food also required careful monitoring.

Too little food and larval competition for food compromised the health and development of the larvae. Too much food and the larvae got stressed from bumping into the pods. I like to coculture copepods with the fish larvae. With the right balance, the copepods supplied enough offspring to feed the fish larvae and maintain the nauplii population in the larval tank. Additional copepods still needed to be added as the larvae grew and required more food. As mentioned above, I started with Parvocalanus copepods, and a few weeks into the rearing process, I added Apocyclops and Euterpina copepods. I varied between adding adults and nauplii or just nauplii depending on the amount of each in the larval tanks.

Turbidity was monitored daily and adjusted by doing algae drips into the tanks. I added algae by placing a reservoir of algae above the larval tank and gravity feeding it into the tank. Algae provided food for the copepods to keep them enriched and also helped calm the fish. Some researchers also think that some turbidity helps with eye development and prey capture in the larval fish.

There is still a lot to learn and improve in rearing these colorful fish. The immediate challenges I face are increasing egg collection amounts and increasing larval survival. Both will come with more trial and error as my efforts continue. It's an exciting time in marine fishkeeping as we learn to breed and raise more species every year.

I'm proud that the Columbus Zoo and Aquarium can be a leader in these efforts.

R

Bernard Dupont

MICHAEL RICE

A GUIDE TO FRAGGING

SOFT CORALS

C

oral fragging is one of the most amazing aspects of this hobby, giving us the ability to reproduce rare reef animals in our care and make our hobby more sustainable in the process. There are many species that require specialized tools and skills to frag, but there are also some that can be easily propagated using tools commonly found around the house. Leather corals, Xenia, green star polyps, and clove polyps are among the very easiest, and for this article, I would like to show you how to start fragging these easygoing softies. These corals can be cut up into nearly any sized pieces, with fragments taken from nearly any part of the animal, and these will eventually grow to be full colonies themselves.

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Toadstool leathers are among the most popular of these corals, and their unique shape lends itself to a specific technique for fragging colonies while still maintaining their natural form afterward.

To accomplish this, I like to perform what I call a "halo" cut.

I begin every soft coral fragging session with a new, sharp razor blade to be sure no potential infections are spread between corals.

Many other tools commonly found around the house can also be used, but be sure to clean them thoroughly before and after use.

First, I place the toadstool leather colony upside down on a smooth surface so that I can easily cut a strip from around the entire perimeter of the top. The width of the cut strip depends on

1. Place the colony upside down

2. Cut a strip from around the perimeter

3. Separate the newly cut strip

4. Cut the strip into smaller sections

5. The cut pieces become the final frags for mounting the overall size of the mother colony and how much I would like to trim it down, but the goal is to leave the colony circular and naturally round on top. After this strip is separated, I cut it into smaller sections that become the final frags. Be sure to leave your frags at least an inch wide to make it easier to mount them later.

Mounting leather coral frags is the tricky part since they won't usually stay attached with coral glue. For this process, I use rubber bands, mesh netting, or a needle and thread.

To attach leather frags with rubber bands, I simply place a frag on a small rock and loosely wrap rubber bands around it. I shoot for at least two wraps across each frag to keep it stable while it's healing.

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(Rubber Band Method) Place a frag on the mount and loosely wrap the rubber band around frag and mount

Two leather frags fully attached to their bases

Wrap the frag twice to be sure it's secure

Using netting is very similar. I place a pre-cut piece of netting over the frag and rock and use rubber bands on the edges of the netting to ensure that the frag stays under the net. Netting the frags probably results in the fastest healing due to how stable it keeps the frags while they attach to the mount underneath.

Threading is also a very easy technique in which I use a needle and thread to secure the frag to its mount. I run several strands of thread through the base of a fresh frag and tie it around a mount, typically a small rock. Frags attached with thread often attach a little slower than other methods.

(Netting Method) Wrap the frag and mount with pre-cut netting

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With all three techniques, the key is to attach the frags firmly without pinching them too tightly. Leather corals are very soft, and any tight binding against their flesh will quickly cut through, leaving two loose pieces of coral and one lonely rock. Toadstool leathers will usually grow onto their mounts in 1 or 2 weeks but may take months to fully regain their toadstool shape. While they're healing, leather frags will benefit from being placed in a lower-flow area of the aquarium to allow them to fully attach to their mounts.

Xenia is another easy-to-frag soft coral that can be cut and attached in the same ways as leather corals. Nearly any cutting tool can be

Secure one side with a loosely tied rubber band

Secure the other side with another rubber band

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Green star polyp is soft coral that, in most cases, is extremely easy to frag. Often, colonies can be cleanly peeled off live rock in large sections. Sometimes, more in-depth work is required to break the mat and polyps free from the rock.

I begin cutting green star polyps by attempting to pry under the edges of the colony. This can be done using a razor blade or nearly any kind of fine tool, such as a flat-head screwdriver or chisel.

Sometimes, the mat will begin pulling off the rock easily, making it simple to pull as much or as little as wanted. Once the mat is separated from the rock, I cut or tear it into smaller sections to suit

A small colony of Xenia

used, but my personal favorite is a pair of small scissors. Stalks can be cut from the colony at nearly any point and are easily attached to small rocks using loose rubber bands, netting, or thread. Loose attachment is key here as well, or you will end up with Xenia bits floating around your aquarium. Frags will usually be fully attached in 1 week and will continue growing vigorously while healing. Be sure to place frags in a low-flow area while waiting for them to attach to prevent them from slipping free of their new mounts.

(Needle and Thread Method) Secure thread to mount and pierce frag

Wrap around mount and pierce frag again

Continue to pierce and wrap until secure

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A small colony of green star polyps

my needs. Green star polyps are easy to frag and easy to attach with super glue, which forms a strong bond to the back of the mats. I place each frag on a small rock with the edges glued down as much as possible to allow it to begin to encrust quickly.

For colonies that refuse to be easily peeled from the rock, the tools I reach for most often are a hammer and chisel. Small sections of the rock can be broken away from underneath the polyps while leaving the bulk of the rock intact. The key is to chisel down into the rock to a shallow depth and then angle the chisel to run parallel with the coral's surface. This will shear off sections of polyps with rock underneath and results in frags that are already securely attached to their bases. These frags can be left on the small pieces of rock they break off with or glued to larger rocks if desired.

Clove polyps are the final coral that I would like to cover here, and they're one of my favorites to frag. They look like flowers and, coincidentally, can be plucked from the rock almost exactly like flowers. To pull them off the rock, I hold their stalks loosely between my fingers as close to the rock as possible and pull gently. They grow along runners that extend across the rock, so once the polyps come loose, they can be slowly and gently pulled off the rock along with their runners. You'll soon learn to pull off as little or as much as you want. Then, runner and polyp sections can be divided into desired sizes using a razor blade, and these are easily attached to small rocks or plugs using coral glue. Individual clove polyps without runners are difficult or impossible to get to grow, so be sure to include some runner on each frag. Clove polyps can also

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which point I'll cut them as close to the coral surface as possible and wait for them to be consumed by new growth. Netting can sometimes be a little trickier to remove if the frags grow through it, but with most soft corals, the netting will quickly disappear inside of the coral's flesh if the netting can't be cut away.

A small colony of clove polyps

take some time to fully attach and should be watched closely since their runners easily break loose from glue. These should definitely be placed in a low-flow area to heal.

For all types of coral fragging, I like to finish with a dipping solution to help minimize the risk of infection. For soft corals, I use an iodine dip with enough iodine added to tank water to turn the water a light amber shade. After all cuts are complete and the frags are mounted, they are placed in this solution for about 10 minutes before going back into the aquarium.

As your frags heal, you'll likely notice how quickly they begin to swallow your rubber bands, thread, and netting. Once the frags are fully attached, rubber bands and thread can be cut, and the loose ends will usually pull through the frags easily, leaving a natural look. Occasionally, they will get caught inside a coral at

Safety is very important when fragging corals from your aquarium, as many of them contain powerful toxins that can injure or even kill humans or pets.

Always be sure to wear gloves and eye protection to keep the random squirts of coral juice out of sensitive areas while you're working on them. Also, be sure to cover any open wounds you may have.

Leather corals, Xenia, green star polyps, and clove polyps may be the easiest corals out there to frag, but the truth is, they're just a gateway to the world of manual coral propagation. Mastering the skills it takes to help them multiply is a great foundation for moving toward species that you would like to frag in the future, and each frag you create is one less coral that will need to be taken from the wild. Fragging truly is the future of the reefing hobby, so get started today with some easy ones and do your part. There's no better way to start than with a small stock of easyto-cut soft corals. Perfect these techniques and you may find that fragging becomes your new hobby within the hobby. R

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PAULO CUNHA

THE CUNHA REEF

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First day of Cunha Reef

M

y journey in the reef hobby started on December 15, 2015. Unlike many reefers, I'd never had a tank before, fresh or salt water. I had been viewing reef tanks on YouTube and was following ReefSpot, a tank that belonged to Paulo Oliveira, an aquarium shop owner in Portugal. I hoped someday to have something similar.

I was lucky enough to meet Paulo at a reef tank lover's luncheon where someone introduced us. Seeing my chance, I took the opportunity to talk to him about my aspirations. Without even knowing me, he offered his help right away.

Cunha Reef after 5 months

For the first year, my reef tank was maintained with Fauna Marin Balling and Color Elements. But soon, I realized it wasn't enough.

My mentor, Paulo, was already using Aquaforest products in his reef tank with excellent results and suggested the same solution for me. I started introducing Aquaforest Amino Mix, Build, Energy, and Vitality into my system. Now, in addition to those, I dose Kalium, Strontium, and Iodum, too. I keep nutrients under control with Pro Bio S, Chaetomorpha algae, and a weekly 20 percent water change with natural sea water.

As the reef progressed, I continued following Paulo's advice, and after 2 years, I feel that my reef has finally graduated into the ranks of Portugal's beautiful reef tanks (in my humble opinion).

Two weeks later, he embarked on a 200 km journey to my house to help me start creating my dream reef. At that point, I still didn't have a clue about aquariums. This is how Cunha Reef began.

SPECIFICATIONS Dimensions: ~60" × 30" × 25" Lighting: ATI 8 × 80-watt T5s Circulation: (2) EcoTech VorTech MP40wQD Return Pump: Jebao DCT 2000 Dosing Pump: Pacific Sun Kore 5th Skimmer: Royal Exclusiv Dual Cone with RD3 Speedy pump Achilles Tang

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Lieutenant Tang

Ruby Longfin Fairy Wrasse

Acropora millepora

Acropora millepora

Stylophora pistillata

Strawberry Shortcake (Acropora)

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Montipora spp.

Side view of the tank after 8 months

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Rainbow zoanthids

Turbinaria sp.

Initially, the idea for my display was to have only some LPS (largepolyped stony) corals and a few fish, but then the excitement took over, and I started to introduce a few easy SPS (small-polyped stony) corals. I gradually switched from easy-maintenance corals to some harder ones, and currently, I am able to put nearly any type of coral in my tank due to the stability of my system. I attribute my system's stability to consistent weekly water testing; I never forget because I don't want any unpleasant surprises.

Today, my reef has healthy fish and corals growing more and more beautiful every day. I have no idea how many Acropora I own, because at first, I simply added every coral I liked. Now, I think differently and choose the rarest and most difficult corals to keep, so I think you can tell I've quickly grown to be picky.

The same thing happened with my fish. I started off with a few easy ones, like Acanthurus tennenti and Acanthurus pyroferus, but my ambition got the best of me. I began looking for the greatest of all fish, an Achilles Tang. One day, Paulo located a specimen and called to ask if I still wanted one. I immediately told him yes.

Recently, I remodeled my tank's layout to allow space for the unusual corals I'm still buying, and I hope I can keep my tank looking as beautiful as ever.

This hobby has been very satisfying for me. I was fortunate to have a mentor who offered great advice, and I had access to quality equipment and products, all of which made my first attempt at reefkeeping a real success.

R

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PRODUCT REVIEW: VCA'S RANDOM FLOW GENERATOR

JIM ADELBERG

E

very once in a while, we here at the magazine see a product hit the market that we find intriguing.

We ask for a test unit and put it through its paces to be able to report back to our readers on products they may find useful. When one of our staff came across the Random Flow Generator from Vivid Creative Aquatics and brought it to my attention, I was definitely intrigued. As a confirmed reef addict, I consider myself a bit of a geek, and I love all the high technology associated with this hobby. But there's also something really neat about simple, economical, and humble products that, through good attention to design, address basic needs in an innovative way. That's the case with this item, and I'm happy to recommend it unconditionally.

The Random Flow Generator is both an eductor and a flow randomizer. This means that the nozzle both entrains water from the tank (increasing your return pump's water-return velocity) and simultaneously randomizes the flow pattern returned to the tank. And it does all of this with no moving parts! I am a salty old skeptic, and while I have used and benefitted from eductors in my older tanks, I haven't always appreciated the high velocity-centered return, which can heavily buffet a coral in one location while another coral, mere inches away, gets almost no flow. This product makes the benefits of an educted return much more usable by randomizing the direction of the powerful jet of water and spreading it over a much larger area.

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I chose to test my sample unit in a 30-gallon cube with a somewhat underpowered return where I'd been experiencing some dead spots that were encouraging cyano growth. This is a tank full of breeding basslets, and the amount of food I was feeding them was causing heavy nutrient loads despite the twice weekly water changes. In short, this would be a hard test for the unit. The nozzle itself was pleasantly small in the ½" version, and I wondered if it would make a difference. I was pleasantly surprised by the unit's acceleration of a fairly weak return and even more pleased as the days went by. It quickly became clear that this item was starting to clear some of the cyano that had been growing and was even creating enough sweeping flow to flush detritus out from under the rockwork.

Overall, I would say this product performs very well considering its humble design and economical retail price. My next experiment with the Random Flow Generator is to see how it will improve the powerheads I use in my salt water mixing barrel. I expect that I will be able to mix salt water far quicker than with just the powerheads or even with just educted powerheads. But that'll have to wait until I order another one, as my first unit has earned a permanent place in my basslet breeding tank. The Vivid Creative Aquatics Random Flow Generator should be available at your favorite local reef shop soon, and I encourage you to try one out for yourself.

R

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