collection
collection
N.4 A utumn - W inter I ssue 2014 - 2015
The Lungarno Collection Magazine
friends Bill Viola Leonard A. Lauder itineraries The Vasari Corridor Michelangelo
S pecial G uest Ferruccio Ferragamo
P ortrait F irenze New opening
Portrait
city tips
L’emozione del bianco Via di Rimaggio n°41 - Bagno a Ripoli - Firenze Tel.055/630049 - bini@lavmodernabini.it - www.lavmodernabini.it
Highlight s
collection
T hat
Heritage
microcosm of workshops and
artisan studios which , at the end of W orld W ar T wo , led to the birth of fashion in F lorence is part of the M edici family ’ s heritage F lorence was left with many centuries before . W hen the M edicis moved to P alazzo P itti in 1560, the neighborhood filled up with artisan workshops to satisfy the
court ’ s needs . most of
T hat F lorence ’ s
M edicean
is the reason why artisan and craft
shops are located in the
O ltrarno
area
Highlight s
collection
Marble M ichelangelo
used to go there
to choose the blocks of marble he needed for his statues .
We
are
talking about the famous marble
A puan A lps in T uscany , which had provided the ancient R omans with marble for the T rajan ’ s C olumn (G iuliano de ’ M edici , A urelio A mendola , 1982, picture taken in F lorence ’ s M edicean C hapels , whose quarries of the northern
sculptures where designed and created by
M ichelangelo )
Highlight s
collection
The First
O n F ebruary 12, 1951, the charming commissionaire G iovan B attista G iorgini ( to the left ) hosted a ball at V illa T orrigiani . T he invitation read : “T he purpose of the event is to promote I talian fashion houses �. T hat day is celebrated as the official birth date of
I talian fashion ( ph . A rchivio G iorgini . T he A rchives are housed in R esidenza I l V illino , located downtown F lorence . V isits are by appointment only , for info : www . ilvillino . com )
Highlight s
collection
gold
E verybody knows that the P onte V ecchio is the bridge of goldsmith ’ s shops , but not everybody knows that up to 1593 there was a meat market in place of the goldsmith ’ s and silversmith ’ s shops that now line the bridge . W hen F erdinando I grew tired of the bad smell coming from the
bridge , he had the butcher ’ s shops replaced with something more up to the
M edicean C ourt . D ario G arofalo )
standard of the nearby
T herefore ,
gold ! ( ph .
Highlight s
collection
In
Blu Lanvin
the twenties ,
J eanne L anvin
was the first fashion designer to
have a color bearing her name :
‘L anvin
blue ’.
A
delicate shade of
cobalt blue that she had first seen on a trip to
F lorence
in frescoes
featuring distinctive blue skies painted with lapis lazuli powder
Highlight s
collection
portrait
A gnolo di C osimo , known as B ronzino , can be credited as the artist who , more than any other , knew how to describe the splendor of R enaissance fashion in portrait painting
(A gnolo B ronzino , E leanor of T oledo and her son , circa 1545)
© Lorenzo Pesce/Contrasto
SILENZIO, STA PER COMINCIARE L’OPERA DI FIRENZE
www.operadifirenze.it
15
Editorial Bur sting with life by Leonardo Ferragamo
17
notes Reinassance by Valeriano Antonioli
Friends 20-21
Bill viola The moder n side of the past
22-23
Fabio Lovino The ar t of seduction
24-25
Leonard A. Lauder About beauty
40-47
76-77
Michelangelo His Majesty
shopping streets
Art & Style 50-53 Ferruccio Ferragamo The iron gentleman
54-57 Leic a 100 year s of fleeting moments
28-31
My florence A special point of view by Timothy Verdon
32-35
78-81 identity I’m thr illed to have you here
82-83 the project Timeless elegance
84-85 58-59 Opera di Firenze Contempor ar y elegy
60-61 Symbols The spir it of Ponte Vecchio
62-63
Itinerary
The gold of Florence
PERSONAL/UNPERSONAL Flying over Florence
Portrait Firenze 66-69
c affè dell’Oro Lounge with kitchen
86-87 Food & drink Enjoy the taste!
88-89 UNIQUES Behind the scenes
tips 92-93 The must-sees What’s going on
VAsari corridor The ‘cor r idore’
Archive An amazing histor y
36-39
70-75
TIPS
on stage Style her itage
in Florence and Rome
Hidden Coats of ar ms and insignia
94-98 What to do and where to go
ILLUMINA
HIGH FASHION LIGHTING
tosconova.com
Hotel Lungarno Florence 73 rooms and suites Stylish and utter ly char ming with stunning views onto the Ponte Vecchio, Hotel Lungar no features over 400 wor ks of ar t including Cocteau and Picasso.
Villa Le Rose Florence 6 bedroom villa Just minutes away from the hear t of Florence, this 16th centur y Villa is a one of a kind historic residence with relaxing garden, delightful pool, frescoed salons and six private suites.
Gallery Hotel Art Florence 74 rooms and suites Italy’s fir st design hotel, Galler y Hotel Ar t is a favor ite amongst the fashion set of Florence . Just a few steps from Ponte Vecchio.
Continentale Florence 43 rooms and suites
Portrait Firenze Florence 34 suites
Over looking the Ponte Vecchio, this vibr ant and dynamic contempor ar y hotel is the place to be and to be seen in Florence .
Spacious and intimate suites, the attention of a char ming hotel, and a wonderful view of the Ponte Vecchio.
Palazzo C apponi Meetings & Events
resort baia scarlino Tuscany
This 15 th centur y Palace with sumptuous frescoes and the latest technology, provides a magical stage for meetings, congresses and prestigious events in the hear t of Florence.
On the Tuscan coast, in the hear t of Maremma, this unique destination features contemporar y and ultra spacious apar tments over looking the sea.
Portrait roma Rome 14 suites
Swan Sailing Yacht Mediter r anean & Car ibbean Seas
The finest location in Rome , on Via Condotti, a stone’s throw away from the Spanish Steps, the Por trait Suites reflect the glamour of life of Salvatore Ferragamo.
Considered some of the finest yachts in the wor ld, Swan Solleone and Swan Vir ago offer an exclusive sea vacation with routes to the Mediter r anean Islands and the Car ibbean.
Booking & Info - Lungarno Collection Bor go S.S.Apostoli, 29- Firenze - Ph. +39 055 27264000 - reser vations@lungar nocollection.com
collection
The Lungarno Collection Magazine N.4 Autumn - Winter Issue 2014 - 2015 editor in chief Matteo Parigi Bini Co-editor in chief Teresa Favi Editorial Director Valeriano Antonioli Managing Editor Cristina Fogliatto, Alessandra Ruggeri editor Sabrina Bozzoni, Francesc a Lombardi, ALessandra Luc arelli contributors Leonard A. Lauder, Fabio Lovino, Vincenzo VAcc aro, Timothy verdon, Bill Viola photographers Archivio Alinari, Archivio Foto Locchi, Archivio Giorgini, Aurelio Amendola, Lorenzo Cotrozzi, Dario Garofalo, Egon Ipse, ALESSANDRO MOGGI, Miki Nakano, NewPressPhoto, Valentina Stefanelli, Torrini fotogiornalismo cover jan fabre, ‘self-portrait’, galleria degli uffizi - florence art editors Chiara Bini, Alessandro Patrizi translations TESSA CONTICELLI, Karin honsberg advertising director Alex Vittorio Lana advertising Alessandra Nardelli, DAniela Zazzeri publisher gruppo editoriale (Alex Vittorio Lana & Matteo Parigi Bini) www.gruppoeditoriale.com
Gruppo Editoriale
Gruppo Editoriale
ph. alessandrobencini.com
Firenze, Forte dei Marmi, Milano, Parigi www.angelacaputi.com
Editorial
collection
Bur sting with life ph. Miki Nakano
Leonardo Ferragamo, Founder
F lorence
is a city bursting with life and energy .T he ability to make each and every guest feel at home is exciting We have recently inaugurated our
about Por trait Firenze in this four th
Por trait Firenze, a 34-suite-room
issue of our Collection Magazine.
proper ty and twin sister of Por trait
Inspiring stories of successful people
Roma, with spectacular views over the
such as Leonard A. Lauder, Renaissance
city’s rive gauche and designed down
Man of the Year 2013, and Bill Viola,
to the last detail to make ever y guest
one of the world’s greatest video
feel at home. Its uniqueness lies in the
ar tists, who challenged the ar t of the
bespoke ser vice, the traditional
past for the first time here at our
Florentine attention to material and
hotel. A por trait is a picture of the
detail, the unique atmosphere and
soul trapped inside the body. Our new
hospitality, that has made Florence the
Por trait’s soul is revealed by looking
world’s capital city of ar t.
out of the window and obser ving the
It is the “por trait” of a modern-day and point where the waters of the Arno lively place, which has been restored
river, always so fast-changing and eye-
to life and splendor, but also of the
catching, lap gently against the stones
people who live it and love it. Learn all
and Florence’s unique histor y.
15
ILLUMINA
HIGH FASHION LIGHTING
tosconova.com
Notes
collection
Renaissance
Valeriano Antonioli, Editorial Director
T he P ortrait F irenze is located where once stood the G rand H otel R oyal D e L’A rno , home to C harles D ickens and H enry J ames . T he story to be continued ... Florence is home to the world’s oldest
savoir vivre, the fifties, which marked the
collection of ar tists’ self-por traits from the
bir th of the so-called “Made in Italy”. In
1500s to the present day. 1800 works of
addition to the location’s beauty - Ponte
ar t ranging from Bernini to Jan Fabre (on
Vecchio is so close you can almost touch it
the cover page) kept in the Vasari Corridor,
- this new adress is the perfect marriage of
the fascinating elevated passageway built at
timeless elegance, contemporar y design, high
the request of the Medicis to allow them to
technology, the ser vice and hospitality of a
move from Palazzo Pitti to Palazzo Vecchio
bygone age with a modern touch, including
without mingling with the crowd (noblesse
bespoken customer ser vice and empathy.
oblige!). The imposing and mysterious
And, what’s more, Por trait Firenze resides
corridor runs past all our hotels in Florence,
in the place where, in the 1800s, stood the
including Por trait Firenze, our newest gem
Grand Hotel Royal de L’Arno, the favorite
whose name, location and meaning are
gathering place of the greatest writers of
curiously related to the Vasari Corridor.
the time, from Charles Dickens to Henr y
Por trait Firenze is the picture of one of
James, and master goldsmiths, who can still
Florence’s most fruitful creative seasons
be found on the Ponte Vecchio and to whom
when it comes to fashion, manual skill and
we dedicate our Caffè dell’Oro restaurant...
17
friends Bill Viola Fabio Lovino Leonard A. Lauder
portrait 19
Friends
collection
The modern side of the past Bill Viola
I spent 18 months in Florence in my ear ly year s, between 1974 and 1976. I was not interested then in the ar t of the past, but there is no doubt that just being in Florence , walking the streets, visiting the cathedral and churches and great museums, that all of this had a great influence on me that really did not surface until the mid-90s. That’s when I began to look seriously at preRenaissance , Renaissance and Mannerist
B ill V iola ,
the now world ’ s best - known
living video artist , tells us about his
ar t. In 1995, while researching the
first - time visit to
wor ks I was to make for the US Pavilion
F lorence ,
after which many more followed
in Venice that year, I came across a book of Pontormo with his Visitation on the cover. This painting str uck me as extraordinar y, both in color and in composition. I was inspired to make a video installation based on this painting, The Greeting, to examine the sustained emotions that arise while a chance meeting is taking place on a street. I was enor mously pr ivileged to see
Visitation while it was being restored in Florence last December, in prepar ation for the latest exhibition at Palazzo Strozzi, Pontor mo and Rosso Fiorentino. Diverging Paths of Manner ism. It was a ver y emotional exper ience to see the painting up close and to finally examine the color s and beautiful lines on the faces of the women, expressing deep sympathy for each other.
Exhibition The latest exhibition at the Gr and Palais in Par is explored my career from the seventies to the present day
Discoveries Thanks to the latest exhibition at Palazzo Strozzi on Manner ism, I discovered Rosso Fiorentino, less familiar to me than Pontor mo
20
Curious Fact The Greeting, a wor k I created in 1995, is inspired by Pontor mo’s Visitation
My first Time In the seventies, wor king in the video studio of ar t/ tapes/22 with Mar ia Glor ia Bicocchi
S ubmerged , the self - portrait of B ill V iola , the world ’ s best - known living video artist , on display in the final section of the
C orridor
V asari
21
Friends
collection
T he ar t of seducti on Fabio Lovino
Por tr aiture is mutual exchange , lear ning, human and ever yday acquirement. It is a matter of reciprocal seduction: you have to fall in love with the per son before you, and stop. Waiting for the deepness in the eyes, for the moment that per son feels that he or she can rely on you and get car r ied away by your ideas, which are never pre-ar r anged: I enjoy ar r iving “pure” at the appointment to let the
M usic ,
reports for humanitarian associations that
moment happen. With the help of the r ight light. I avoid the manner istic approach, the pur suit of absolute
cinema , lifestyle , fashion but also photo
T he
A frica , C hile , C ambodia . according to F abio L ovino
brought him to art of portraiture
perfection. When I began wor king as a photogr apher, many year s ago in the adver tising and music field, I followed U2, the Rolling Stones, Madonna and Pr ince on tour for twenty year s. Then came the motion-picture wor ld. Many are the photogr aphs I am par ticular ly fond of… the one of Allen Ginsber g tender ly hugging Fer nanda Pivano, the photorepor t I did of Benicio Del Toro in San Sebastian, the por tr aits of Ber nardo Ber tolucci and Nanni Moretti. The latest adver tising campaign shot in Los Angeles, star r ing the stunning Claudia Ger ini. The photos of the Circus project, inspired by the circus wor ld. A figure of the past I would have enjoyed photogr aphing? Stanley Kubr ick. Of the present? Bob Dylan.
portrait I avoid the pur suit of absolute perfection (On top, Fabio Lovino on the photogr aphic set with the Italian actor Mimmo Calopresti)
book Por tr aits: 130 photogr aphs documenting over twenty year s of Italian cinema. Cur ated by Renata Fabbr i, introduction by Luca Guadagnino
22
The important photoreport Of the actor Benicio del Toro at San Sebastian
impossible dream Photogr aphing Mozar t. At a time when camer as did not exist
F rom
top ,
T ilda S winton ,
the image of timeless beauty according to
F abio L ovino and a photo of the I talia actress A sia A rgento from his book ‘P ortraits ’
23
L eonard A. L auder was given the
‘R enaissance M an of the Y ear 2013’ A ward by the P alazzo S trozzi F oundation in F lorence ’ s S alone dei C inquecento
24
Friends
collection
About beauty Leonard A. Lauder
Estée Lauder was a great mother and businesswoman. She had inner drive and under stood the ar t of creativity, she was a visionar y and she had her own sense of style , which influenced my per sonality and taste for beautiful things. She taught me to preser ve and cultivate the ar ts and follow a philosophy simple in theor y but difficult to put into practice: don’t create a product unless it is perfect. My parents used to take me on sales calls to depar tment stores and visits
C hairman
emeritus of the giant of the
cosmetics industry
E stée L auder ,
one of the
world ’ s most influential art collectors ,
to museums growing up, so I have a
cosmetics tycoon and philanthropist
good eye for fashion, beauty and ar t. I love women. I love the way they look and the way they laugh. Ever ything! Beauty is the ability to attract, not just the opposite sex but ever yone . One of my dearest memories of Florence is about a completely unknown woman I once saw on the street: during my jogging days, r unning across the Arno to the other side of the river at 7 a.m.
UNFORGETTABLE MOMENT riding her bike to wor k with a shawl When I promised thrown over her shoulder in the most to donate my magnificent fashion-right style as though pr ivate collection she were on the r unway. What class! I of Cubism to the Metropolitan am proud to have received the award Museum of Ar t by the Palazzo Strozzi Foundation, in the morning, I saw a young woman
because I wor ked ver y, ver y hard in my life and I under stand that great culture knows no national boundaries.
photographer Ir ving Penn: he had an eye like no one else - and I always admired that he did his own printing. He did a lot of wor k for the Estée Lauder Companies for our brand Clinique
25
film A Place in the Sun because it showed the ambitions of youth - and the limits of that ambition - in the most sensitive way. In addition, it was brilliantly directed, scripted and edited
The thing you could never do without My two sons, William and Gar y and the love of a woman!
Spotlight on food
LA TAVOLA srl
tel +39 0161.251959
Via Pietro Micca, 51
contact@la-tavola.it
13100 Vercelli (ITALY)
www.la-tavola.it
i t i n e r a ry Florence Rome
portrait
28
I tinerar y
collection
My Florence Timothy Verdon
P hoto L orenzo C otrozzi My love of ar t began at a ver y ear ly age , as a child, by browsing through the books my family had accumulated over the year s in our New Jersey house . Then chemistr y did its par t when I was attending high school in New Yor k. Ever y time I skipped chemistr y class, a subject I disliked and was unable to master, I found refuge in the Metropolitan Museum and, standing before the “real” works, I irreversibly fell in love with ar t. But it was in Venice, where I studied for some time shor tly after, that this love grew deeper. I was anxious to under stand the meaning of ar twor k in its or iginal context, as only the
An art historian with a PhD from Yale University and a priest in Florence since 1994, Timothy Verdon is the director of the Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore Museum
context allows you to make
the reopening of the museum to the
their or iginal spot on the full-scale
reasonable assumptions about the
public in October 2015. Following
replica of the medieval façade .
ar tist’s and the client’s intent and,
major extension wor ks, that have
Standing opposite are the Baptister y’s
thus, about the meaning of a wor k of
doubled the museum’s exhibition
three original bronze doors (11),
ar t. From then on, at fir st as a student space , the wor ks will be displayed
which were designed to face the
and then as a professor, I tried to live
according to philological cr iter ia to
or iginal front.
in Italy as long as possible. And so it
enhance the or iginal ar r angement.
Consider able research effor ts will
has been for 50 year s!
However, what promises to be the
finally allow us to see what nobody
Having been able to devote most of
real “treat” is the reconstr uction, in a
has seen since 1587.
my life and career to the Opera del
huge 500-square-meter room, of the
From the museum, I would like
Duomo Museum, that is what “my”
Duomo’s original façade, which was
to guide you into the Baptister y
Florence is about. Unfor tunately, the
taken down by Gr and Duke Fr ancesco
(2,5), Florence’s fir st great
museum, though containing wor ks of
I in 1587 (the cur rent façade was
architectur al space . Admire , face up,
inestimable value , has been mostly
built in the 1800s). Of the or iginal
the magnificent ser ies of mosaics
used as a storeroom so far.
front only the sculptur al decor ations
ador ning the cupola. Created in the
But things are about to change with
sur vived and they will go back to
1200s, they are amongst the finest of
29
11
the medieval European per iod. The mosaics’ uniqueness lies in the univer sally intelligible iconogr aphic reading of the wor ks, a distinctive feature of Florentine ar t, according to which an image must be beautiful, but also under standable and touching. With the Baptister y at your back, go inside the Duomo (1, 3, 4, 6-10) and, if it’s a lovely day, you will enjoy
2
a one-of-a-kind exper ience . Walk down the nave towards the wor ld’s greatest master piece in all the histor y
placed along the nave (4). They are
Once approved, the Gr and Duke
of architecture: Brunelleschi’s Dome.
sixteenth-centur y wor ks in marble
said: “But these two are just fine as
And as you get close , let your body
from the Seravezza quarries, near
they are , why should we waste more
and spir it register the impact of this
Massa Carrara. They were built at
money?”. And so, the taber nacles
space . It will feel like floating in a well
the Medicis’ request and designed by
were finely painted and placed
of bejeweled light filter ing through
Bar tolomeo Ammannati. Well, near ly
where nobody usually stops, as all
the near ly fifty ancient glass windows
nobody knows that the first two
visitor s head str aight to the altar
(8), dating from the late 1300s and
tabernacles off the main entr ance
and beneath the dome .
ear ly 1400s. Such lighting cannot be
are not made of marble , but of
One of the best performed tricks
found in any other Italian church,
wood.
in histor y, no doubt!
exception made for the Duomo of
Being so well-built and painted, one
And, above all, this deception
Milan, whose windows, however, date
would never know, but if you get
well expresses another distinctive
back to the late 1800s.
close and knock on the surface , the
feature of ancient Florentine ar t: the
Do you want to know a secret? Take
secret is revealed. Those were the
boundless admir ation for ar tifice , for
a look at the twelve monumental
or iginal models made by Ammannati
whatever appear s to be but is not,
eight-meter-high tabernacles
to gain the Gr and Duke’s approval.
being simply ver y well made .
30
3
4
5
6
7
8
10
11
P iazza della R epubblica
9
31
G allery ’ s
32
T he U ffizi courtyard
Art
collection
F rom
left : the loggias unter the
U ffizi G allery ;
the
U ffizi G allery ’ s
corridor ; the
V asari C orridor ;
the loggias under the corridor
T he ‘c o r r i dor e’
The world’s greatest self-portrait collection, with artists from the 1500s to the present day T ext F rancesca L ombardi
The Vasari Corridor is an elevated passageway that begins at the Uffizi Gallery, joins Via della Ninna, r uns over the full length of the Ponte Vecchio, skir ts
A
place of everlasting charm , history and
masters of painting , with a new display that
increases the exhibition space of the twentieth century self - portrait collection
around the Mannelli Tower - named after the only Florentine family that refused to let the Medicis plow through their proper ty - passes through the Church of Santa Felicita and over the houses of Via Guicciardini and ends in Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens. The corridor was built in five months to the design of Giorgio Vasari, at the request of Cosimo I, to allow the Medicis to move freely from their private residence to the Florentine government’s seat, that is, from Palazzo Pitti to Palazzo Vecchio. The meat mar ket, which was located on the Ponte Vecchio, was moved to avoid its smell reaching into the Grand Duke’s private corridor and its place was taken by the goldsmith’s shops that line the bridge to this day. The entrance to this one-kilometer-long passageway is from a door off the Uffizi Galler y’s third corridor. It houses a par t of the museum’s holdings of seventeenth
and eighteenth-centur y paintings, as well
on display. From the 1500s to the present
as the ar tists’ self-por trait collection.
day, the faces of the greatest ar tists of all
The collection was officially star ted by
time show how the idea of painting and
Cardinal Leopoldo in 1664, by donating
sculpture has evolved over the centuries,
some of his family’s self-por traits. The
on a journey through histor y that has no
size of the collection was increased
equal: Gian Lorenzo Bernini, Annibale
significantly over time, fir st by the Medicis
Carracci, Francesco Primaticcio, Lavinia
and then by the Lorena family. In 1981, on
Fontana, Federico Barocci, Rembrandt,
the occasion of the 400 anniver sar y of
Reynolds, Ingres, Ensor but also Chagall,
the Uffizi Galler y’s establishment, director
Rauschenberg, Joseph Beuys, and great
Luciano Ber ti added a great number of
twentieth-century masters such as De
pieces to the collection by asking famous
Chirico, Manzù, Balla, Paladino, Fontana,
contemporar y ar tists to donate their self-
Pistoletto, Carrà… just to mention a few
por trait, carr ying on the Medici family’s
names on a list that grows by the year.
tradition. Today, the collection includes
A few months ago, the final section of
about 1800 wor ks, of which only one third
the Corridore- as Vasari called it-, that is,
th
33
T he
elevated passageway along the
A rno
river
the par t ending in the Boboli Gardens-
display in the new section are par ticular ly
has been rearranged. The new layout,
fragile, owing to the
curated by Giovanna Giusti, director of
suppor t or technique used - let’s
the Galler y’s nineteenth-centur y and
not forget that we are talking about
contemporar y ar t depar tment, with the
contemporar y ar tists -, they will rotate
consent of Antonio Natali, director of the
regular ly and be kept hanging from a
Uffizi Galler y, allowed for the addition
movable suppor t to make replacements
to the collection of 127 self-por traits
and loans easier.
by twentieth-centur y Italian and foreign
The new arrangement of the Corridor’s
ar tists (paintings, stone, bronze and plastic exhibition space, which can definitely be wor ks, photographs), from the Uffizi
described as momentous, has involved
Galler y’s storerooms. This is par t of a
more than the 127 recently added wor ks:
larger project to take wor ks of inestimable 16 wor ks already on view in the Corridor
O n the right page : 1. F ranz von S tuck 2. U mberto B runelleschi 3. J an F abre 4. B oris K ustodiev 5. C rossing the V asari C orridor 6. B accio M aria B acci 7. G iorgio M orandi 8. M immo P aladino 9. E lisabeth C haplin
value out of the Galler y’s storerooms,
have been moved to make room for the
collected over thir ty year s’ time and
new por traits. The 143 por traits of the
fur ther enriched with the acquisition
Corridor’s final section have brought
of the Raimondo Rezzonico Collection
the total number of wor ks on show to
(2005), which has brought over 600
527, most of them by twentieth-centur y
new wor ks to the Galler y’s self-por trait
ar tists, over 800 in all. Photographs by
museum. Among the new self-por traits
Mapplethorpe, Francesca Woodman and
on view are great Italian ar tists such
Patti Smith have been recently replaced
as Baccio Maria Bacci (6), De Chirico,
with wor ks by Daniela de Lorenzo, Gianni
Balla, Marino Marini, Vedova, Pistoletto,
Cacciarini and Giovanni Paszkowski,
Paladino (8), Clemente, Paolini, but also
because of the above-mentioned rotation
foreigner s like Böcklin, Denis, Zorn,
of ar twor k. The latest donations to the
Siqueiros, Kusama, Fabre (3), Viola and
collection are by Andrea Martinelli, Bill
many more. As some of the wor ks on
Viola and Roberto Barni.
34
1
2
3
4
5
6
8
9
7
35
A bove , coat of arms of the M edici family on the pediment of the
C hurch of S anti M ichele e G aetano . B elow , coat of arms of the R ucellai family ( right ), P alazzo S trozzi , cantonale of V ia del P roconsolo
36
Hidden
collection
Coats of ar ms and insignia T ext
and
P hoto V incenzo V accaro *
While walking through the streets of Florence , one can easily notice that most building facades feature
T he
coat of arms can be defined as the sum of the family ’ s insignia of knighthood when titles of nobility were earned
the coat of ar ms of the family that
for military prowess
had it built or, in some cases, still lives there . The coat of ar ms is often fr amed in a shield, evoking the days of chivalr ic deeds, and is placed above the main entr ance or on the cantonale, so called because the building is situated on the cor ner of two streets. One way to better under stand the difference between coat of ar ms and insignia is to visit the Rucellai Chapel in Via della Spada. Access is through the Mar ino Mar ini Museum, located in the adjacent Piazza San Pancr azio. The Chapel, somehow unknown still to many Florentines, was reopened to the public in Febr uar y 2013, after major restor ation wor ks car r ied out by Florence’s Monuments and Fine Ar ts Office . The Rucellai Chapel was built inside the Church of San Pancrazio and houses one of the
greatest master pieces of Italian Renaissance ar t: the Sacellum of the Holy Sepulcher, a small-scale replica of the Holy Sepulcher in Jer usalem. Leon Battista Alber ti was commissioned to build the Sacellum by Giovanni di Paolo Rucellai and completed it in 1467. It is a rectangular masonr y shr ine with semicircular apse and covered with white Carrara marble, green “serpentino” marble from Prato and some precious red marble inlays. The walls consist of thir ty panels made by using a special openwor k technique , opus
37
Hidden
collection
S acellum of the H oly S epulcher , R ucellai C hapel in the C hurch of S an P ancrazio , and details of personal S econd picture from left : detail of the graffiti of a M ass server ’ s profile scratched on the shrine ’ s apse
insignia .
inter rasile. The shr ine is topped
and fire (represented by the
through shipping tr ade to the Far
with a crown of lilies and features
red tr iangle pointing upwards)
East and to the For tunale, the sea
an inscr iption in Roman capital
together. In the middle of the
stor m that could have destroyed
letter s dr awn from the Gospel
shr ine’s walls are the per sonal
his fleet and, thus, his wealth, any
and r unning round the tr abeation:
insignia of Cosimo the Elder (a
time .
Yhesum quer itis nazarenum
chaperon with three feather s), of
And so, the building of the Holy
cr ucifixum sur rexit non est hic ecce
Piero de’ Medici (a diamond r ing
Sepulchre to the design of Leon
locus ubi posuer unt eum.
and two feather s) and of Lorenzo
Battista Alber ti can be read as
The panels are decor ated with
the Magnificent (three diamond
both Giovanni Rucellai’s attempt
geometr ic images that refer
r ings interwoven).
at ingr atiating himself with the
to ancient quotations (the
Giovanni di Paolo Rucellai was, in
powerful Medici family for life and
Baptister y’s paneling, the intar sia
fact, related to Florence’s r uler s,
his appeal to the Almighty’s mercy
decor ations of the Church of San
the Medicis - whose coat of ar ms,
to aver t the r isk of economic
Miniato al Monte) or to figures
as ever ybody knows, is a shield
calamities and get ready for the
like the ones descr ibed in the
with six balls - having mar r ied
after life . Dur ing restor ation wor ks,
Book Seven of De re aedificator ia,
Lorenzo’s older sister. He wished
many gr affiti inscr ibed on the
such as the square , the hexagon,
to “show off ” this prestigious
green marble over the centur ies
the octagon, the decagon and the
relationship by mar r iage by
have been brought to light: news
dodecagon, all figures der ived
putting the Medicis’ insignia on
of major events (such as
from the circle , and thus, symbols
his shr ine , but not of all Medici
the death of Ferdinando I, the
of celestial power, talismans
family member s, only those of
Duchess of Nor tumbr ia hear ing
that capture God’s influence
his wife’s closest relatives: her
Mass), but the most cur ious one ,
and extend it over the wor ks
gr andfather, father and brother.
visible only in low sunlight, is on
created by man. One of these
The central panel, which used to
the shr ine’s apse and depicts the
figures, in par ticular, consists of a
face the nave of the Church of
profile of a Mass ser ver.
red tr iangle and a white tr iangle
San Pancr azio, features Rucellai’s
(Solomon’s seal) interwoven,
personal insignia, a sail unfur led
*Director of Section I of
symbolizing the power of br inging
by the wind, the ancient symbol of
the Super intendence of the
water (represented by the white
For tune, which here refer s to both
Environmental and Architectural
tr iangle pointing downwards)
the economic for tune he gained
Her itage of Florence
38
39
His M aj e sty
Michelangelo, the absolute genius. The world celebrates him in the year of the 450th anniversary of his death T ext F rancesca L ombardi
T he H all
P risoners that T ribune of the D avid , A ccademia G allery , F lorence ( ph . L orenzo C otrozzi ) of
culminates in the
40
41
D avid at the A ccademia G allery , F lorence ( ph . L orenzo C otrozzi )
42
T he M oses at the S t . P eter ’ s B asilica , R ome ( ph . V alentina S tefanelli )
43
T he D ome of S t . P eter ’ s B asilica in R ome , built to the design of M ichelangelo B uonarroti , who worked on it till the year of his death , and was one of the
artist ’ s greatest disappointments
44
45
T he S istine C hapel ’ s ceiling ( about 500 square meters ), which was frescoed
by
M ichelangelo nearly all by himself , is considered to be one of the greatest
masterworks of
46
W estern
art
O ne of the P risoners , A ccademia G allery , F lorence ( ph . L orenzo C otrozzi )
47
a r t s t y l e s to r y Ferruccio Ferragamo 100 years of Leica Opera di Firenze Ponte Vecchio Personal/Unpersonal at the Gallery Hotel Art
portrait
F rom top clockwise : F iamma , G iovanna , L eonardo , W anda , F erruccio and F ulvia F erragamo on the rooftop of P alazzo S pini F eroni , 1983 ( ph . D avid L ees ). F erruccio F erragamo as a child . S alvatore F erragamo in a 1938 picture surrounded by his artisans . F erruccio with his father in the garden of V illa I l P alagio ( ph . F erragamo archives )Â
50
Style
collection
T he i ron gentl em an A private talk with Ferruccio Ferragamo T ext T eresa F avi
Fer r uccio Fer r agamo is the thirdbor n of the six children of Wanda and Salvatore Fer r agamo, the golden couple that came together in 1940. A broad smile , an enviable shape , fr iendly manner s and cosmopolitan
T he third - born of W anda and S alvatore F erragamo ’ s six children . I ncredibly successful and yet very down - to - earth , he has been president of the S alvatore F erragamo G roup since 2006
style . He loves Florence to bits, but he r uns off to Il Bor ro, near Arezzo, as often as he can, to his countr yside proper ty, an ancient village restored to its or iginal splendor and conver ted into a Tuscan-style villa and game preser ve , where he spends his leisure time in the
record budget for 2013, with sales increased by 9%. President, in the light of such great
company of six children and twelve
achievements, what is the biggest
gr andchildren. Not to mention the
challenge you have had to face
winer y, a long-standing passion that
since you joined the Ferragamo
developed into a thr iving business
Group?
with 70 full-time employees. Beneath In the past fifty year s, I have never his elegant manner s lies an iron stopped facing challenges, I have will, a self-controlled and strong
per sonality, the bold and far-sighted entrepreneur who focuses on results
never been resting on my laurels. Salvatore Ferragamo is a symbol of the “Made in Italy”, born out of
and quality. Vir tues and skills that
your father’s creative genius. How ear ned him the position as president would you describe your father to of Salvatore Fer r agamo SpA and someone who never met him? the Florentine fashion company a
I was only four teen year s old when
51
Style
collection
F rom
left :
the day
S alvatore F erragamo women ’ s collection fashion show ; F erruccio F erragamo in his office ; the family picture on G ruppo F erragamo was quoted on the S tock E xchange ; P alazzo S pini F eroni in F lorence the G roup ’ s headquarters
he passed away, but I was old
What are your priority choices
Leonardo’s vision.
enough to know him well. What
when it comes to clothing?
What is it that you like best about
was he like? He was a ver y fr iendly
I love quality items, beautiful things,
the hotels?
and kind man. A wonderful and fun
but I also enjoy wear ing them out, I
The boutique hotel philosophy:
father, although he was quite str ict
always have my shoes resoled because small-sized hotels in unique
with me , but I deser ved it, for I was
I grow fond of them over time .
locations offer ing luxur y hospitality
a pretty restless boy. He adored his
What doesn’t fashion need
on a human scale , where each
family. He was my role model when I
nowadays, in your opinion?
and ever y guest feels at home . A
became a father.
Extremism, subver sion, useless and
philosophy that is fully achieved
Have you inherited any of your
low quality things.
at the new Por tr ait Firenze . And
father’s great qualities?
You constantly travel the world for
what an amazing location! With
His honesty, I think. He believed
business, but you always come back
breathtaking view of the Lungar ni
in his products because they had
to Florence . Is Florence still your
and the Ponte Vecchio! My house
intr insic value . And I believe that his
ideal city?
over looks the Ar no r iver, just like
strong sense of loyalty to himself
I am a bor n-and-bred Florentine , just the Por tr ait, and it’s the thing I like
and other s was passed down to me .
like all Fer r agamos are . Florentine
best about it, you can’t imagine how
Is that why Ferragamo goes on
deep down inside . I am madly in
beautiful the light is when the r iver
producing exclusively in Italy?
love with this amazing city. But
is so close .
Keeping consumer s on our side
we cannot live on its beauty and
President, would you mind sharing
or employment stable cannot be
histor y forever, we have to make
one of your dearest memories with
achieved by simply saying that Italy is sure it offer s also pr actical living and us? What family picture would you beautiful and made-in-Italy products
wor king conditions.
never par t from?
are known wor ldwide . What we
What does Ferruccio Ferragamo
The one taken on the day our
need are strongly competitive
think about the family-owned
company was quoted on the Stock
products of real value .
hotels?
Exchange (June 29, 2011), the whole
What is elegance about for
I really like them. Since my fr iend
family was there , and of cour se I
Ferruccio Ferragamo?
Alber to Milla came up with the
cannot but think of my father, who
Being oneself all the time and not
idea of the fir st three hotels, many
would have been so proud to see
being overwhelmed by passing fads
good and innovative choices have
how far the company he founded
and fashions.
been made thanks to my brother
has gone .
52
A bove :
SPA’ s lounge I l B orro estate in S an G iustino V aldarno , owned by F erruccio F erragamo . B elow , a view of the A rno river with S anta T rinita bridge in the middle and L ungarno A cciaiuoli on the right - hand side the
area of
53
V-J D ay
T imes S quare , A lfred E isenstaedt , published on L ife magazine in 1945 in
the photo by
54
K iss
by the
H otel D e Ville,
the photo taken by
R obert D oisneau
in
1950
100 year s of Leica
One century of the legendary camera that revolutionized photography
C ompact ,
fast - shooting , producing
excellent photos even in low light ,
photojournalists ’ favorite camera all over the world .
I nvented
in
1914,
it made snapshots possible
55
Anniver sar y
c o ll e c t i o n
The Painter of the Eiffel Tower, Paris by Marc Riboud, 1953; Che Guevara by Renè-Burri, 1963; Henry Cartier-Bresson with his Leica; Oskar Barnack
Here’s how Henri Cartier-Bresson explained its secret: “Why do I always choose Leica? Because it is like a warm passionate kiss, like a gun shot, like a shrink’s couch”. Small negative-great photography. This
H ere ’ s
H enri C artier -B resson explained its secret : “W hy do I always choose L eica ? B ecause it is like a warm passionate kiss , like a gun shot , like a shrink ’ s couch ” how
is the revolutionar y philosophy that, in 1914, inspired Oskar Barnack, an engineer from Zeiss employed at Leitz of Wetzler, to make his dream come tr ue: building a camera small enough “to fit in a breast-pocket”, that could save the photographer the trouble of carr ying the heavy tripod around and allow him to capture the moment. It was named
greatest photographer s in the histor y
a photo taken by the popular German
Leica (crasis of Leitz and Camera), a
of por traiture and repor tage , such as
camera, which this year, after having
camera as small as an eyeglass case
Bresson, Sebastião Salgado, Robert
revolutionized the wor ld of photography
and containing a 35 mm roll of film.
Doisneau, Robert Capa and Ilse Bing,
in the ear ly 1900s, celebrates its 100 th
Introduced in 1925 at the Spring Fair of
the golden year s of the Leica were the
anniver sar y.
Leipzig, Leica was not well received by
sixties and seventies, when it was used
THE LEIC A STORE IN FLORENCE
buyer s, nor by journalists: “Leica is a toy
by paparazzis in Via Veneto in the Dolce
Florence’s Leica store stands opposite
- some spiteful journalists commented -
Vita days and appeared in Fellini’s films,
Galler y Hotel Art, at 12/14r Vicolo
designed for a lady’s pur se”. Seven year s
in Jack Nicholson’s pocket in Chinatown,
dell’Oro, and offers the full range
later, sixty thousand “toys” were sold,
in The Godfather. Ernesto “Che” Guevara
of Leica products. It also houses
Leica became a bestseller in the United
smoking a cigar, Sophia Loren smiling at
photographic exhibitions and get-
States and spurred other companies,
the height of her beauty. And the world’s
together s with the best-known
such as Kodak, to produce car tridges
most famous kiss, in Times Square, to
contemporar y photographer s. Showing
for the new camera format. For ty year s
celebrate the end of Wor ld War Two.
till Januar y 2015 is the exhibition by
later, near ly one million Leica cameras
Whether you own a Leica camera or
Daniele Barraco, one of Italy’s most
were sold. The favorite camera of the
not, there is no way you haven’t seen
famous por trait photographer s.
56
F rom above clockwise , P ablo P icasso , V illa L a C alifornie , C annes by R enĂŠ B urri , 1957; B ruce G ilden , 2001;Â C assius C lay /M uhammad A li by T homas H oepker , 1966 (A ll images are kindly granted by
L eica C amera AG)
57
T heatre
collection
Contempor ar y elegy Curtain up on Florence’s new Opera House
Write it down on your travel journal or on your smar tphone’s memo application. If you’re planning to come to Florence , you should include a walk to the western side of the city, which has been recently restr uctured and is now a brilliant example of contemporar y architecture blending with the green landscape , as par t of your trip. We are talking about Florence’s greenest area, Le Cascine , which, along with Stazione Leopolda (a ver y interesting example of railway architecture conver ted into exhibition space) and Florence’s new opera house , has become the city’s most contemporar y
A
large 1,800- seater theater equipped with three stage platforms and a 2,200- seater outdoor cavea for opera , symphonic music and ballet performances
destination. However, the driving force behind
The performance halls rise like rocks
opera by Gioacchino Rossini, in an
the urban reconver sion of this green
above the terraces, which will be soon
extraordinar y production directed by
area, located just outside of the city’s
buzzing with restaurants and bookshops:
José Carlos Plaza, will be staged from
historic center, is the Opera di Firenze,
the large 1,800-seater theater, equipped
July 14 to 22 (for five nights: July 15,
the most impressive public project
with three movable stage platforms
17,18, 21, 22). The Maggio Musicale
carried out in Florence in the past few
for quick stage changeover s or to hold
Fiorentino Orchestra, conducted by
centuries, designed to house one of
several performances simultaneously,
Zubin Mehta, will perform on September
the wor ld’s most prestigious and oldest
and the smaller 1,100-seater concer t
2 (music by Cajkovskij, Beethoven,
music foundations, the Maggio Musicale
hall. The opera house’s interior s are
Ravel, Verdi, Puccini). On September
Fiorentino. Conducted by Zubin Mehta
equally spectacular and decorated with
10, the Orchestre National de France
and featuring an impressive production
poster prints of the most beautiful
will be conducted by Daniele Gatti in
of operas and symphonic concer ts since
vintage photos of the Maggio Musicale
a reper toire ranging from Debussy to
1928, this annual music festival is held
Fiorentino found in photographic
Stravinskij and Beethoven.
from May to June and includes a rich
archives (Contrasto, Archivio Foto
The new season starts on September 25
program of opera, orchestral music and
Locchi). The not-to-be-missed music
with a modern opera Il Campiello by
ballet performances.
events? The Barber of Seville , the
Ermanno Wolf-Ferrari.
58
A bove , O pera di F irenze ’ s exterior . B elow , the large 1,800- seater theater P review page : Z ubin M ehta , chief conductor of the
M aggio M usicale F iorentino O rchestra
59
The
water show
‘F ous
de
Bassin’
by
F rench
group I lotopie , was performed right in front of the
Ponte V ecchio
The spir it of Ponte Vecchio An unforgettable water show and the magic of Florence’s most symbolic landmark P hoto E gon I pse
A
special event to celebrate the
60 th
F lorence C enter for I talian F ashion and P onte V ecchio ’ s new lighting donated by S tefano R icci , owner of the fashion house bearing his name . T he star of the event and special guest of P ortrait F irenze was A ndrea B ocelli anniversary of the
60
S ome
wonderful
moments of the
P onte V ecchio ; tenor A ndrea B ocelli water show on
performing on the
P onte V ecchio
61
art
collection
Flying over Florence
A world populated by anthropomorphous figures crossing Vicolo dell’Oro’s skies If, when strolling through Vicolo dell’Oro, you notice tourists and passer s-by walking face up, don’t be surprised: look up your self and you’ll see the most amazing ar t installation, called Personal/ Unpersonal, commissioned by Galler y Hotel Ar t to architect/ar tist Simone
“P ersonal /U npersonal ”
D’Auria. Human figures with animal heads climb up the front of the Galler y Art Hotel and surrounding buildings and pirouette like funambulists along ropes
in
is the name of the new art installation set V icolo dell ’O ro , commissioned by G allery H otel A rt to architect S imone D’A uria
stretched between the buildings, as if they were telling the people below to relax and enjoy this wonderful city! The heads are those of a rooster, rhino and owl. Playing with the idea of por traiture is the joyful way with which D’Auria welcomes the new hospitality address by Lungarno Collection, Portrait Firenze. The performance is also a reminder for tourists of the precious por traits kept in the nearby Uffizi Galler y and Vasari Corridor and of the Medicis’ taste for having themselves por trayed with animal features. The illustrious figures, that made the histor y of Florence , enjoyed having their emblems bear the figure of an animal and a motto referring to their braver y and vir tues: the tur tle and a sail, the symbols of pr udence and strength of action for Cosimo I; the rhinoceros, the symbol of strength and willpower for Alessandro de’ Medici; the weasel, the symbol of astuteness, for Francesco
I. “The installation- says the architect to introduce his second exhibition in Florence which, as the previous one , relies on the “surprise” factor – draws inspiration from the concept of por trait, meant as the description of a specific style: a mix of values ser ving as the backdrop for the visitor s’ stories which are , in turn, reflected in the city’s stor y”. And the goa l- as for all D’Auria’s ar twor k - is that of sending out a positive message for all tourists and visitor s making their way from Ponte Vecchio to Vicolo dell’Oro: an invitation to keep going, no matter what, to climb higher to grow stronger by reaching beyond one’s limits.
62
F ront
of
G allery H otel A rt
which also this year houses a new art installation :
human figures with animal heads climb up the front of the hotel and its
surrounding buildings .
P revious page , a portrait of S imone D’A uria
63
Portrait Firenze
portrait 65
A n a m az i ng hi stor y
Once upon a time there was a hotel in Florence that Charles Dickens and Henry James were very fond of‌
N octurnal view of L ungarno A cciaiuoli , with S anta T rinita B ridge and P alazzo S pini F eroni in the middle in a painting by T homas P atch , circa 1769, owned by the Q ueen of E ngland
66
67
Portrait Firenze
collection
F rom left , the sign of G rand H otel R oyal de l ’A rno in a vintage picture ; the buildings giving onto L ungarno A cciaiuoli the P onte V ecchio , which were lost to the 1944 bombings ; the front of the new P ortrait F irenze
near
“We are ver y sumptuously lodged on the Lung’Ar no within a stone throw of Ponte Vecchio.
It
My bedroom looking on the r iver is thir ty three by thir ty and high in propor tion. I feel as if I were sleeping in some public
was the G rand H otel R oyal de l ’A rno , nineteenth - century F lorence ’ s most luxurious hotel . I t now comes back to life as P ortrait F irenze , a blend of glorious past and shining present
square , that of the Gr and Duca for instance with the David and Per seus looking at me . (…)”. Henr y Wadswor th Longfellow, 1868 When wr iter and poet Henr y Wadswor th Longfellow, the fir st Amer ican tr anslator of the Divine
sumptuous three-storey palazzo
Algernon Swinburne and the great
Comedy, tr avelled to Italy and
with ter r aced garden over looking
Br itish ar t histor ian John Ruskin.
ar r ived in Florence in November
the Ar no r iver.
The war-time events of 1944
1868, he stayed at the Grand
In the ear ly 1800s, after sever al
brought the business to an end,
Hotel Royal de l’Arno, which was
changes of owner ship and
as well as the building, which was
among Florence’s top-r ated and
str uctur al renovations, the ancient
bombed and destroyed. It was
most elegant hotels.
Palazzo was conver ted into a
rebuilt on its foundations in the
The building gave onto Lungar no
luxur y hotel equipped with ever y
postwar per iod and used for a
Acciaiuoli, Vicolo dell’Oro and
moder n comfor t and designed for
var iety of pur poses, until it went
Bor go SS. Apostoli. It boasted an
the many illustr ious guests that
back to being a hotel as par t of
age-old and fascinating histor y
it would welcome for over one
the Lungar no Collection. Today, the
dating back to the 1200s: the
centur y: Grand Duchess Anne of
Lungarno Collection acknowledges
powerful Acciaiuoli family,
Russia in 1822, Charles Dickens
and reveres the sanctity of histor y
merchants and apothecar ies,
and wife in 1845, Henr y James in
while pur suing a new sense of
had commissioned Ber nardo
1880, Danish wr iter Jens Peter
hospitality for its guests with the
Buontalenti to design and build a
Jacobsen, Br itish poet Charles
opening of Por trait Firenze .
68
F ront of the G rand H otel R oyal de l ’A rno in a picture dating back
1900 s ( ph . A rchivio A linari ) to the early
69
St yl e h e r i tage
Florence invented “Made in Italy� and the world fell at its feet
T ext T eresa F avi P hoto A rchivio G iorgini , A rchivio F oto L occhi , T orrini F otogiornalismo
A
high fashion
W hite R oom , P alazzo P itti , F lorence ( ph . A rchivio G iorgini ) show in the
70
71
Portrait Firenze
collection
F rom left : backstage of a fashion show , 1952; M aria C allas , G iovanni B attista M eneghini and M archese E milio P ucci , 1955; Y ves M ontand and D aniele D elorne on the L ungarni , 1953 (A rchivio F oto L occhi ). E lizabeth T aylor and R ichard B urton (T orrini F otogiornalismo )
A
A deeply-rooted tradition of manual skills, craftsmanship and talent which the Medicis, many centur ies before ,
fascinating story , as enthralling
as a novel , told in detail by
P ortrait F irenze ’ s
every floor and room
had left to Florence , along with ar t and cultur al treasures and their savoir vivre . A well-known fact among the member s of the upper middle class and ar istocr acy, who - from the 1800s on- flocked to Florence from ever y cor ner of the wor ld to stock up on laces, houselinen, jewelr y, silverware , leather goods and hats. The fir st to realize the untapped potential lying just beneath Florence’s cr aft shops and ar tisan factor ies, back in the late ‘20s but, with the insight of a moder n-day entrepreneur, was a shoemaker from the Campania region who had spent some successful year s in Hollywood, but had chosen to settle in Florence to give for m and substance to his boundless creativity. This shoemaker’s name was Salvatore Ferragamo and the thir teenth-centur y building over looking the Ar no r iver would soon become his headquar ter s. Then came Wor ld War Two and the difficult postwar per iod. And that is when the stor y of Italian fashion and “Made in Italy” fame begins. The “where” of the stor y is Florence ,
whose ar tisan tr aditions and innate
with a deep knowledge of the
taste for style and beauty would
Amer ican mar ket, the only mar ket
conquer the whole wor ld in a few
capable , at the time , of absorbing
year s’ time , just as they had won over
Italy’s consumer goods as its
Salvatore Fer r agamo. A fascinating
economy slowly reconver ted from
stor y, as engaging and enthr alling as a
militar y to civilian. Italy, in par ticular
novel, which descr ibes a lively though
Florence , was wor ld-famous for its
controver sial per iod of Italian histor y.
excellent and highly skilled ar tisans
In those year s, owing to the postwar
and, as “Bista” Gior gini put it, two
per iod’s favor able economic situation
plus two only equals four. However,
and stronger tr ade relations with
he had to br ing the big buyer s and
the United States, fostered by the
jour nalists to Florence . On Februar y
Marshall plan, the idea of launching
12, 1951, the char ming Gior gini
Italian high fashion to counterbalance
hosted a ball at his eighteenth-
Par is’s hegemony began to take
centur y villa in Florence , Villa
shape .
Torrigiani. The invitation read: “The
Then a visionar y and creative genius
pur pose of the event is to promote
bur st on the scene: Marchese
Italian fashion houses”, which
Giovanni Battista Giorgini, a tr ue
designed less sophisticated clothing,
gentleman bor n in For te dei Mar mi,
but much more suitable for an active
with impeccable ar istocr atic manner s
and dynamic lifestyle than Par isian
and a glib tongue , a buying agent
coutur ier s did.
72
F rom top clockwise : T yrone P ower on the terrace of the E xcelsior H otel overlooking the L ungarni , 1948. A model wearing an evening gown at a fashion show at the
G rand H otel , 1952. T he D uke and D uchess of W indsor with S alvatore F erragamo in front of P alazzo S pini F eroni , 1949 ( ph . A rchivio F oto L occhi )
O utside U ffizi G allery
the
73
I ngrid B ergman
in the car in front of the
R ight : a fashion model at F lorence ’ s rowing club , 1948 ( ph . A rchivio F oto L occhi )
H otel E xcelsior , 1950 ( ph . A rchivio F oto L occhi )
The event’s effect was far-reaching,
between the ‘50s and ‘60s: Christian
as for the fir st time a fashion
Dior, Elsa Schiaparelli, Jacqueline
show had been held in a location
Kennedy, Maria Callas, Ava Gardner,
separ ate from the fashion house’s
Marilyn Monroe, Liz Taylor and
headquar ter s. However, per suading
Richard Bur ton, Audrey Hepburn
all those influential people to gather
and Ingrid Bergman, even the Duke
at the same time in the same place
and Duchess of Windsor. This
was no easy task. Gior gini had to
incredible stor y is told in detail by
resor t to some tr icks. To the fashion
Por tr ait Firenze’s 36 suite rooms and
houses he said: “The best designer s
commons areas.
have already agreed to come”, to the
A visionar y and breathtaking
buyer s he said: “If you’re not coming,
jour ney conceived by ar t histor ian
you won’t mind if I invite your
Nina Screti who, by relying on her
competitor s”. Anyway, that night
exper ience in the fashion wor ld,
in Florence the wor ld took a new
gained by wor king for Car la Sozzani
approach to fashion. Gior gini had
and the LVMH group, liter ally
realized that the future of fashion
tur ned upside down the Giorgini
and style would lie in the prêt-à-
Archives and the Alinari, Locchi
por ter and Florence would open the
and Torrini photographic archives,
door s of Palazzo Pitti’s White
fully suppor tive of her extr aordinar y
Room to fashion shows for many
project. The strong bond between
year s to come .
fashion, ar t and cr afts, which has
The rest is histor y. Extr aordinar y
made Florence what it is today, still
times made up of glamorous par ties,
retains a special appeal for all those
masked balls, theater s, gardens,
who wish to exper ience an alchemic
amazing locations and inter national
and unique mix of these three
Jet Set member s landing in Florence
extr aordinar y elements.
74
75
A bove , shop windows V ia de ’ T ornabuoni . B elow : P onte V ecchio
in
and its famous
goldsmith ’ s and
silversmith ’ s shops
Portrait Firenze
collection
From left: jeweller’s shops on the Ponte Vecchio and fashion boutiques in Via de’ Tornabuoni
T he gol d of F l or ence
Via de’ Tornabuoni, Ponte Vecchio and Florence’s main shopping streets T he best of fashion and art within one kilometer : F lorence boasts over 140 high - end boutiques
With its matchless tr adition of ar t and cr aftsmanship and its classical style of symmetr y and propor tion as ideal of beauty, Florence is home to some of the world’s greatest fashion houses, which have brought wor ld-wide fame to the “Made in Italy” know-how. And all of their design and production is still based in Florence . We are talking about wor ld-famous br ands such as Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci, Emilio
most sophisticated shopping streets,
to the Middle Ages and filled with
Pucci, Gherardini which, in the late
the busiest of which is the downtown
objects of incompar able value for
Via de’ Tor nabuoni, Florence’s Fifth
which there are people willing to
Avenue , and the nearby Via della
tr avel to Florence from all cor ner s of
Vigna Nuova, Piazza Strozzi, Piazza
the wor ld! What is perhaps
della Repubblica, Via Roma and Piazza
lesser known, is that until the late
della Signor ia. The best of fashion
sixteenth-centur y, Ponte Vecchio was
and ar t within one kilometer of our
home to the meat mar ket, the ideal
Ermanno Scer vino.
hotels is a not-to-be-missed luxur y
place for butcher s to dump waste
Their wonderful boutiques, in
shopping exper ience in Florence .
directly into the Ar no r iver below! In
addition to other celebr ated luxur y
Ponte Vecchio, the bridge of gold,
1593, Ferdinando I de’ Medici, tired
is the symbol of Florence
of the stench of meat reaching into
wor ldwide . For centur ies, the
the Vasar i cor r idor, that connected
Ponte Vecchio has been lined with
Palazzo Pitti and Palazzo Vecchio, had
goldsmith’s shops and wor kshops.
the meat mar ket moved and replaced
Small treasure boxes dating back
with the goldsmith’s shops.
1800s and ear ly 1900s, tr ansfor med Florence into the home of style and elegance . The list of Florentine-bor n fashion houses has grown over the year s to include Roberto Cavalli, Stefano Ricci, Enrico Coveri and
br ands - from Christian Dior to Prada, from Hermès to Louis Vuitton, from Chanel to Valentino, from Bulgari to Rolex, from Cartier to Chopard - line the city’s leading and
77
78
I ’m thr illed t o have you h ere A new style of hospitality is taking shape, find out all about it in Florence
T ext V aleriano A ntonioli *
P ortrait F irenze ’ s terrace with extraordinary
A rno P onte
view of the river and
V ecchio
79
A ristocratic
elegance ,
unmatched attention to details and rare vintage
O utside U ffizi G allery
photographs decorating the walls of
F irenze
the
P ortrait
80
Portrait Firenze
collection
S unset
in
F lorence
from the terraces and rooms with lovely views of the
Por tr ait is a life style , a philosophy of hospitality. It is set in a location of undisputed and r are beauty, and steeped in comfor t and elegance , but
N othing
L ungarni
is more crucial to the success
“ service ”. F irenze ’ s uncommon recipe ,
of a luxury hotel than
P ortrait
poised between the past and present
this is not the point. The difference makes an extraordinar y team, that has been able to tr ansfor m exclusivity into an alchemic mix, that has the power to make ever y piece fit together in a vibr ant whole , going well beyond the bespoken ser vice
since the 1800s. The most amazing
any moment and, more impor tantly,
of any great luxur y hotel. The first
thing about it, just like in Rome , is
with amazing empathy. In order to
Por trait was established in Rome by
that a lady in sky-high heels can leave
achieve such results, we contact
the Lungar no Collection about ten
the hotel to go on a shopping spree
our guests before their ar r ival in
year s ago, in the for m of an Italian-
without wor r ying about aching feet:
Florence to lear n in advance about
style luxur y townhouse , where the
only fifty steps and she is in the
their preferences and how they plan
war m and reassur ing atmosphere , the
city’s luxur y shopping area (Via de’
to spend their time . And, if they
focus on one-to-one relationships
Tor nabuoni, Via della Vigna Vecchia
wish, we help them plan their stay,
and per sonalized customer ser vice
and Piazza Strozzi); a five-minute walk
optimize time and fulfil their wish list.
make each and ever y guest feel
and she finds her self in the hear t of
When the guests ar r ive , we already
at home . The name itself, Por tr ait,
Florence ar t treasures: Piazza della
know them and they know us. What
expresses the concept of “made-to-
Signor ia, Loggia dei Lanzi, the Uffizi
we str ive to achieve here is what
measure” hospitality, catered to each
Galler y, the Bar gello Museum; another
we str ive to achieve is a sense of
individual’s needs.
five-minute walk and she can enjoy
hospitality: that feeling of happiness
We now employ this same philosophy
the under stated elegance of the
you exper ience when retur ning to a
in Florence , in a magic place with
Oltr ar no area with its cafés, antique
place you haven’t been to in year s
spectacular view of the Ponte
dealer s and cr aft shops. From the
to see dear fr iends you haven’t seen
Vecchio and Arno river, in the hear t
suites, guests can take in the beautiful
in a long time and they have done
of the city, next to Florence’s most
view of the Ar no r iver and the hills
ever ything humanely possible to make
glamorous shopping street, Via de’
sur rounding Florence like an or nate
you feel home and at ease . Welcome
Tornabuoni. A place which has been
fr ame , while the fr iendly and skilled
to the Por tr ait.
devoted to hospitality “de char me”
staff is at her complete disposal at
81
* AD Lungar no Collection
Portrait Firenze
collection
Timeless elegance
Sophisticated and personalized, the best backstage for our performance 34 wonderful suites and an
ser vice , as I believe that going
Fr anco Zeffirelli, Anna Magnani,
extr aordinar y 275 square
back to tr aditional-style ser vice is a
Vittor io Gassman, Sophia Loren).
meter Por tr ait Penthouse Floor.
step in the direction of the future .
The four th floor is named after
Aristocratic atmosphere and
I was deter mined to provide the
royal and renown frequent visitors
timeless appeal, a haven where
best possible backstage for our
to Florence, such as Pr ince
har mony is the r ule . “In order to
perfor mance”.
Baudouin of Belgium, the Duke
create a har monious environment
And when going from one floor
and Duchess of Windsor, Gr ace
- explains Florentine architect
to another of this seven-storey
Kelly and Ranier i of Monaco. The
Michele Bönan, the wor ld-famous
building, you really feel like being
fifth floor celebrates Giovanni
master of style who designed the
on stage , like an actor hidden
Battista Giorgini and some of the
exclusive Por tr ait Firenze - I
in the wings of a theatre before
fir st designer s who took par t in
relied on inter plays of color s and
making an entr ance . Ever y floor
the White Room’s fashion shows:
mater ial contr ast and used mat
has a theme that is evident in the
Rober to Capucci, Simonetta
grey in contr ast with glossy grey
beautiful vintage photos chosen by
Visconti and Emilio Schuber t.
and dar k brown.
ar t histor ian Nina Screti. The first
The sixth floor is dedicated
I combined steel with gilt metal
floor is dedicated to international
to the memor y of Salvatore
and wood, utilizing fabr ics
celebrities who regular ly tr avelled
Ferragamo and his daughter
which are relaxing, war m and
to Florence in the fifties and
Fiamma Ferragamo, as well as to
pleasant to the touch”.
sixties. The second floor’s most
great fashion designer s who had
The simple , classic and
luxurious suite room is dedicated
the chance to wor k with him, from
contemporar y design is enhanced
to Bernard Berenson and Villa i
Chr istian Dior to Elsa Schiapparelli,
by the use of precious and
Tatti, another suite room to Villa
who staged a fashion show in
sumptuous mater ials, such as linen
Le Rose (owned by the Lungar no
Florence . There are also two
and cashmere , war m wood and
Collection Group) where an
extr aordinar y photogr aphs of M.me
leather. Color s, mater ials, shapes,
extr aordinar y event was held in the Lanvin who, in Florence , discovered
ever ything combines to create the
fifties in honour of Rose Kennedy,
the color that would later bear her
r ight atmosphere . “My inspir ation
another
name , Lanvin blue , by admir ing
- says Bönan, whose sophisticated
suite to Palazzo Pitti and its
the lapis lazuli-blue skies of
signature style per meates all
wonderful Boboli Gardens.
Florentine frescoes.
Lungar no Collection Hotels - was
The third floor is a tribute to
The seventh floor is dedicated
the concept of timeless elegance .
Florence’s theaters (La Per gola
to movie star s strolling along the
I wanted the Por tr ait to convey a
and Comunale) and to some of
Lungar ni, such as Elizabeth Taylor,
timeless and welcoming feeling. An
Italy’s greatest stage and screen
Richard Bur ton, and Tyrone Power
integr al par t of my project is the
star s (Mar ia Callas, Renata Tebaldi,
with his wife Linda Christian.
82
83
C affè
dell ’O ro is so called because it is located between
P onte V ecchio ,
the home of goldsmith ’ s shops
and workshops for four centuries ,
and
V icolo
dell ’O ro , the first alley at
B ridge heading downtown . C affè dell ’O ro stands where , in the 1800 s , G rand H otel R oyal de l ’A rno , which was frequented
the end of the
by goldsmiths from
all over the world , stood
84
Portrait Firenze
collection
Lo u n ge w i th ki tchen
Welcome to Caffè dell’Oro, the home of gourmets and conviviality seekers
“Lounge with the use of kitchen” was the typical descr iption of the tr aditional Italian osteria open all day long. Ever y small town used to have at least one oster ia. It ser ved wine and food but, just
S urrounded by glass walls with view of the A rno river and P onte V ecchio , C affè dell ’O ro is inspired by the all -I talian tradition of literary cafés and osterie
as with barber shops, the oster ia was the hub of the town’s social life: it was the place where people would gather to play cards and discuss politics and local matter s, to swap newspaper s and tobacco, to enjoy a glass of wine after a long day’s wor k. The oster ia offered local, basic dishes, nothing more . The oldest
two “ancestor s” of moder n-day Italian
and cold cuts are among the best Tuscan
restaur ants combined to give life to
and Italian ones available , tr y the Grigio
the Caffè dell’Oro restaurant, open
del Casentino and you will be lost for
ever y day from 7 am to midnight, from
words, or ask the waiter for Tre idee per
breakfast to mid-mor ning snacks, from
una caprese and you will be treated to a
lunch to teatime , from aper itivo to
dish of three different tomato var ieties
dinner. The essence of Italian style, a
and three types of mozzarella cheese .
breathtaking view over the Arno river,
And the one thing you can be sure of, in
elegant inter ior design, the use of the
this new convivial food space , is that all
best top-quality ingredients. You can
liter ar y
dishes are prepared simply but with style ,
drink or have something to eat any time
café had in common with an oster ia was
with each ingredient being intensified for
of the day. The geogr aphical or igin and
its freshness and quality. The reins of
name of producer is provided for ever y
Caffè dell’Oro’s kitchen have been taken
food ser ved, which is the result of Caffè
over by the young but well-known chef
dell’Oro staff ’s ongoing research on small
Peter Brunel from Trento, the Lungar no
local grower s and producer s. Cheese
Collection group’s new Executive Chef.
Italian oster ia dates back to the 1400s and can be found in Fer r ar a. Instead, the literar y café or iginated in the 1700s. The more ar istocr atic and then bour geois ver sion of the wor king-class oster ia, the liter ar y café, required a big city atmosphere , more sumptuous settings, impeccable ser vice, product quality and elegant interiors. The only thing a
the opening hour s: all day long. One of Italy’s most celebr ated liter ar y cafés, Pedrocchi in Padua, was best known as “door less”, as it never closed. These
85
M useo F erragamo
B outique F erragamo
H otel L ungarno G allery H otel A rt P ortrait F irenze
Continentale
Leica store
Hotel Lungarno
Portrait Firenze
Borgo San Jacopo
Caffè dell’Oro
Fine dining restaur ant with Ponte Vecchio and Ar no View
All-day dining Italian Cafè with Ponte Vecchio and Ar no View
Picteau Lounge
Gallery Hotel Art
Champagner ie and chocolate tasting with Ponte Vecchio and Ar no View
The Fusion Bar & Restaurant
Eclectic cocktails, fusion cuisine and best sushi in town
Continentale La Terrazza
Rooftop bar with Ponte Vecchio and 360° view
86
D rink
c o l l ec t i o n
F rom
left :
B orgo S an J acopo ; ‘L a T errazza ’
of the
C ontinentale ;
the
P icteau L ounge ’ s
terrace ;
T he F usion B ar
Enjoy the taste!
A unique crossing food experience around the Arno river In the hear t of Florence and the
homemade pasta, fish-fr y, licor ice-
quality cer tified ingredients, such as
five best dining and socializing spots
flavoured shin of lamb. Save room for
fresh milk from the nearby Mugello
for demanding tr aveler s and ver y
desserts, they are simply delicious!
area.
popular with the Florentines. The
The Fusion Bar
The Picteau Lounge
Lungarno Collection crossover food
Florence’s only fusion urban
experience will br ing you as far into
bar and the city’s most fashionable
one of Florence’s loveliest places
the essence of Florence as you can
and upscale aper itivo spot.
to enjoy a glass of Champagne
get. Here is our list of the must-tr ies.
Distinguishing mar ks: cocktails and
from the bar’s extensive wine list.
Borgo San Jacopo
dr inks paired to delicious sea food.
Ask for a seat on the small terrace
It is the gour met restaur ant of the
The sushi dishes (nigir i and maki),
over looking the Ponte Vecchio, you
Lungar no Collection. In the past
that Gilberto ser ves in the most
won’t regret it!
ten year s, under the direction and
dar ing combinations, for perfect match with the cocktails prepared by
Caffè dell’Oro
guidance of Chef Beatrice Segoni,
The Hotel Lungar no’s lounge bar is
The day at the elegant Por tr ait
the restaur ant has been combining
the two master mixologists Kareem
Firenze’s bistro begins at 7 am with
the best of tr aditional Italian cuisine ,
and Marco: the Negroni sbagliato, the
a delicious breakfast of organic
impeccable ser vice and inter national-
Black mojito and the Hendr ix Feaver
and natural goodies (the group has
style reception. Gourmet dishes
are legendar y.
just signed an exclusive contr act
and an extensive wine list featur ing
La Terrazza
with Valis, a wor ld-leading company
over 600 Tuscan and Italian labels,
del Continentale
in the distr ibution of or ganic and
including a wide choice of biodynamic It is a ter r ace with breathtaking
biodynamic products, for the whole
wines. A quick lunch for mula with
panor amic views of Florence , set on
food & bever age depar tment) and
a complete mini four-cour se menu
the Continentale Hotel’s top floor.
ends at midnight after having ser ved
from appetizer to desser t. The dinner
It ser ves excellent and tr aditional
lunch, mid-afternoon snacks and
menu is one of the best on the
Dolce Vita-style cocktails and, as of
dinner, based on dishes which are the
Florentine restaurant scene. Among
summer 2014, also ice-cream made
celebr ation of excellence and top-
the must-tr y dishes are quail bur ger,
by Florentine ar tisans with top-
quality ingredients.
87
Portrait Firenze
collection
Behind the scenes
A sneak peak behind the scenes of the new Portrait Firenze We had a chat with two highly
into 2,5 cm slabs (2).
How many prototypes?
qualified member s of the staff
Any distinguishing marks?
Five prototypes per piece on
wor king behind the scenes of
The marble is so clear that light
aver age .
Por trait Firenze, to lear n more
passes through it. Marble featur ing
How many hands?
about their job and about the
unifor mity in color and veins on a
Sixty the whole R&D Tosconova
hidden details of quality and careful
lar ge scale is ver y expensive , owing
team (four upholsterer s and three
craftsmanship that went into the
to the huge quantity of production
car penter s), plus one wor kshop, all
making of this recently-inaugur ated
rejects, which means € 500 per
qualified wor ker s, entirely devoted to
hotel on the Ar no r iver. A world of
square meter.
the Por tr ait production (at least half
special skills and veritable passion
The most critical moment?
of the company’s staff- a total of 46
for what they do, where quality is the
When we had to send back the
people- was busy with the Por tr ait).
measure of value .
marble cover ing for six bathrooms,
The piece you are the proudest of?
three of which had already been
The Ar no ar mchair (3, 9), the Por tr ait’s
Andrea Garasi, a Roman engineer, is
installed, because the marble was
signature piece .
the Project Manager in char ge of the
not up to standard. Well, what’s past
How many different furniture items?
setting up of Por tr ait Firenze , from
is past…
Sofas, ar mchair s (8), tables, tr ays, accessor ies, cur tains and leather-
the initial str uctur al stages, such as the installation of the luxur y white
Lorenzo Michelacci, vegan and
covered door knobs.
Car r ar a marble bathrooms in the
surfing champion at the age of 39,
How many different kinds of wood?
34 suite rooms, to the purchasing of
is the young owner (alongside his
Dar k-colored and precious: rosewood
silverware .
sister Valentina) of Tosconova, a
and iroko mahogany.
What was the most difficult task?
company
Any distinguishing marks?
Coordinating 150 order s placed for
that has been in the fur niture
Our sofas and ar mchair s feature a
different mater ials from 130 supplier s.
manufactur ing business for fifty year s patented spr inging system (like the
It drove me cr azy….
and combines the use of ar tisan-
one quality bed mattresses have)
What was the most intriguing and
like techniques (4, 5) with the
which provides a soft and comfor table
yet complex supply of materials?
commitment to environmental and
suppor t even when the fur niture is not
The marble for the bathrooms.
health protection.
too thick. We use water-based paints
What kind is it?
How many hours of work?
and glues. We wor k with the best local
White Calacatta from the Pietr asanta
Six months wor king full-time for the
ar tisans, such as our master car penter,
quar r ies (1, 6) - the same
design and prototype stage and five
the fifth-gener ation member of a
Michelangelo used -, the finest one
months for the production, including
family of car penter s. The founder of
available . Blocks of about 13 tons
Saturdays and Sundays, except
the family was a shipwr ight, who built
each (7) are extr acted and then cut
Chr istmas and New Year’s Eve .
boats for the Ar no r iver’s fisher men.
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3
4
5
6
8
9
7
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La storia di Firenze in 5.000.000 di immagini w w w. f o t o loc c hi.it
tips What’s your preference? Are you the Hotel Lungarno or Continentale type? Are you more attracted to the Gallery Hotel Art or the Portrait? What’s your style? Are you the classic, cool or creative kind? Does style rank high among your priorities? Do you travel with family or are you a confirmed single? Take our personality test and find out. Choose the things to do and places to see in Rome and Florence according to your profile.
portrait
W h at’s goi ng on The must-sees of art, music, culture, theatre, food&wine, fashion
ART
A rich and versatile artistic
Princess Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici.
Till September 7, 2014. Gucci Museum
personality: painter, illustrator,
ART
Radical Femininity
jeweller y designer. Born in Verona, he
From June 17 to November 2 , 2014.
The exhibition features the works by
spent half of his life in Florence . The
Uffizi Galler y
three ar tists who testify to how, in
city celebrates Jacopo Ligozzi with a
The Pure Simple Natural. In sixteenth
the late ‘60s-early ‘70s, female ar tists
big exhibition as part of the Un anno
and seventeenth-centur y ar t in Florence
used their body as a powerful tool of
ad ar te program.
The exhibition explores the strong aspiration to change and innovation
criticism and subversion: the American Lee Lozano (1930-1999), the Polish
ART
of the greatest sixteenth and
Alina Szapocznikow (1926-1973) and
Till October 5, 2014 Casa Martelli
seventeenth-centur y artists in
Belgian Evelyne Axell (1935-1972).
Museum
Florence , including Lorenzo Lippi, Fra’
Travelling to the East. Photographs from
Bartolomeo and Andrea del Sarto.
MUSIC & THEATRE
Africa at Casa Mar telli
Till September 21, 2014. Cour tyard of
The exotic and mysterious fascination
ART
the Bargello Museum
that Westerners felt for the Middle
Till April 12 , 2015. Salvatore
Estate al Bargello
East and Mediterranean Africa reached
Ferragamo Museum
Two national premieres, over sixty
its height with Napoleon’s militar y
Equilibrium
theatre and music events, including
campaigns, as shown by Casa Martelli’s
An exhibition devoted to walking
the 25
photographic collection.
and moving forward. A selection of
th
Florence Dance Festival
artwork by Canova, Degas, Rodin and
performances. Estate al Bargello features a rich program of theatre ,
ART
Bourdelle , Matisse , Picasso and Klee,
ballet, classical and contemporar y
Till November 2 , 2014. Medicean
alongside videos by Bill Viola and
music events held at the National
Chapel Museum
Marina Abramovic and many other
Bargello Museum.
Ar t and Politics . The Electress Palatine
artists.
and the last season of the Medici’s ART
patronage of the ar ts in San Lorenzo
ART
Till September 28, 2014. Palatina
The exhibition, held in the Medicean
From June 16, 2014. Galler y Hotel Art
Galler y, Palazzo Pitti
Chapel Museum, is divided in five
Unpersonal
Jacopo Ligozzi. “Pittore Univer salissimo”
sections focusing on the personality of
An exhibition exploring an imaginar y
92
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and parallel world, populated by
OPERA
No Defiance Without Courage
anthropomorphous, stylized and shiny
September 23 and 30, November 2,
The Centre for Contemporar y Culture
creatures.
2014, Opera di Firenze
Strozzina’s new exhibition includes
Cavalleria Rusticana
works by 15 contemporar y Spanish
MUSIC
Opera di Firenze stages the
artists and collectives.
August 1, 2014. Cavea Opera di Firenze
masterwork by Pietro Mascagni, the
Jonathan Wilson
first work of verismo opera in the
Following the successful concerts
histor y of Italian opera, a favorite
in Rome and Milan, this eclectic
amongst all music lovers.
songwriter, poly-instrumentalist and
THEATRE From October 28 to November 2, 2014, Pergola Theatre Six Characters in Search of an Author
“guitar hero” is back in Italy. With his
CHARITY
world-acclaimed 2011 album Gentle
September 28, 2014, 9.30 am, Piazza
Spirit followed by Fanfare in 2013, he
del Duomo, Florence
has made his incredible talent known
Corri la Vita
opens the drama season of Florence’s
to the world.
The popular race contributes to
oldest theatre with the play by Luigi
non-profit public health institutes
Pirandello.
MUSIC
in Florence , specializing in the fight
September 10, 2014. Opera di Firenze
against breast cancer.
Daniele Gatti and Orchestre National
The Pergola Theatre’s director, actor and art director Gabriele Lavia
THEATRE From November 6 to 9, 2014. Nelson
de France.
ART
Mandela Forum
Maestro Daniele Gatti conducts the
From September 30, 2014 to Januar y
Cirque du Soleil. Quidam
French orchestra in a repertoire
15, 2015. Modern Art Galler y, Palazzo
45 first-rate acrobats, musicians,
ranging from Debussy to Stravinskij
Pitti
singers and artists in a show that has
and Beethoven.
Lights on the 1900s Palazzo Pitti’s Modern Art Galler y
ART
celebrates its 100 th anniversar y with a
From September 20, 2014 to Januar y
big exhibition on the Italian 1900s and
25, 2015. Palazzo Strozzi
its greatest artists: Carlo Carrà, Baccio
Picasso and Spanish modernity
Maria Bacci, Alberto Savinio, Marino
The exhibition features a wide
Marini, Libero Andreotti, Antonio
selection of works by the great master
Maraini, and many more .
been an international hit since 1996. OPERA November 29 and 2, 4, 7, 9, 12 December, 2014, Opera di Firenze Falstaff The last opera composed by Giuseppe Verdi. La Scala Theatre opened its
of modern art, while exploring his influence on and relationship with
ART
opera season with Falstaff in 1921,
other major Spanish artists such as
From October 3, 2014 to Januar y
1936, 1980 and it is considered to be
Joan Miró, Salvador Dalí, Juan Gris,
25, 2015. Center of Contemporar y
the most frequently performed opera
Maria Blanchard, Julio González.
Culture Strozzina
with 34 seasons and 209 performances.
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Creative tips
Gallery Hotel Art Types
collection
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morning Breakfast
In-room breakfast: fresh fr uit, yoghur t
Entertainment Take a relaxing break at Amblé (in Chiasso del Bene) to enjoy an organic sandwich and a cup of coffee . Are you
and croissants to star t the day
in the mood for some shopping now?
peacefully and fuel your body after
Head to Bjork, concept store and
your morning r un.
design boutique featuring a beautiful
Sport
collection of fashion, ar t magazines and
Run from the Lungarni to the Cascine Par k, where you can stop to take a look at Florence’s new opera house (Opera di Firenze) and home to the 5
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Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Festival (4):
books in Via dello Sprone 25, I Visionari, eyeglass and gift shop in Piazza Nazario Sauro, Atelier Michele Chiocciolini (2) in Via del Fico or the city’s best-known
concer ts, opera and ballet performances,
multi-brand shop Luisaviaroma.
film-showing and lectures.
Cocktail
Lunch
At aperitivo time , treat your self to
At lunchtime , stop at Coquinarius in Via delle Oche: fresh egg pasta, salads and steak tar tare in a lighter French-style ver sion (5). Or enjoy the picturesque atmosphere of trattoria La Casalinga, in Via de’ Michelozzi, just steps away from the Church of Santo
the extraordinar y cocktails prepared by Galler y Hotel Art’s bar tender Kareem Bennet (6): fresh and unusual ingredients are combined to create innovative ver sions of the classics or new and original drinks.
afternoon night Spirito.
Dinner
Art
Go on a contemporar y ar t tour. Visit the Strozzina, Palazzo Strozzi’s Center of Contemporar y Culture , in Piazza 6
Have a drink at Odeon Bistrot or at Colle Bereto (3), in Piazza Strozzi, and then spend the rest of the night
Strozzi (1), and Aria Art Galler y in
at Blume (Lungarno Serristori 3R),
Borgo Santi Apostoli 40.
Florence’s most glamorous nightclub.
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Hip T ips
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1
morning Art
After a nice breakfast, spend the rest of the morning on a cultural note. Two special destinations: the Medici Chapels, which house the tombs of Giuliano and Lorenzo de’ Medici, designed by Michelangelo and placed in the socalled New Sacristy, a masterwor k of
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all about the histor y and international business of the “shoemaker of the star s”, Salvatore Ferragamo. Or at the Gucci Museum, which keeps the Gucci archives and hosts temporar y contemporar y ar t exhibitions in Piazza della Signoria. After which, a little shopping won’t do any harm. Head straight to the city’s three most stylish multi-brand shops: Gerard Loft in Via de’ Pecori 36, Flow
Renaissance architecture and sculpture
in Via dei Vecchietti 20 (2) and Space
(4). And the Medicean Laurentian
in Via de’ Tornabuoni. For the lover s of
Library, also designed by Michelangelo
the handmade and vintage collector s,
between 1519 and 1534 and containing
the two must-see destinations are:
one of the wor ld’s greatest collections of manuscripts (6). Lunch Stop for lunch at the Central Market: the elegant building was designed by Giuseppe Mengoni, who drew inspiration from Paris’ Les Halles even in the choice of materials (iron, glass, cast iron), and has just recently conver ted its fir st floor into a lovely gourmet and dining space (1).
afternoon Fashion
Spend the afternoon on a fashion tour. Where? At the Ferragamo Museum,
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Alessandro Dari’s jewelr y in Via San Niccolò 115, Antonio Gatto’s hats in Piazza Pitti 5 (3). Relax Stop at La Terrazza at the Continentale Hotel for an ice-cream break to be enjoyed on the hotel’s beautiful terrace or, if you feel that the cobblestone streets have been hard on your feet, for the Sublime Feet Treatment, a regenerating massage performed by the hotel spa’s skilled staff.
night Dinner
housed in the company’s headquar ter s,
Have dinner at Pampaloni’s (5), Florence’s
the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni, to learn
best-known silver smith’s shop since 1902.
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hotel continentale Types
collection
Classic T ips
Hotel Lungarno Types
collection
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morning The best way to star t the day is a long walk through the city’s green lung, which cuts through downtown Florence: two hour s and a half to cover Villa Bardini’s Garden, the Boboli Gardens and Forte Belvedere (open to visitor s from July 4 till mid-October 2014). Enraptured by the Renaissance-style Boboli Gardens, by the fascinating mix
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of styles and ages at Villa Bardini and by For te Belvedere’s splendor, you will easily make it to lunchtime . Lunch If you are looking for a Florentine-style T-bone steak, the best places are Buca
and shopping, here are three mustsee ar t galler ies in town: Moretti Fine Art, which specializes in Tuscan Haute Epoque paintings; Riccardo Bacarelli Arte Antica (5), an exper t on ar twor k from the 1600s to the 1800s; and Galleria Romanelli, filled with busts and marble and bronze statues which are definitely wor th the visit. Shopping Loretta Caponi, in Via de’ Tor nabuoni, for handmade and embroidered house linen and infant wear. For silverware , Pagliai, in Bor go San Iacopo, and Brandimar te (6) in the San Frediano area. For ar tistic potter y, Bruno Gambone (2).
night
the best salt cod in town.
afternoon
After taking a relaxing and refreshing
or museum-going? If you follow our tips,
(the Fusion ver sion with ginger and
ar tichoke tortino)(4) and Buca Lapi (1). On Fridays - the day most Italians eat
Now it’s time to make a choice: shopping whatever you choose to do will be great.
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painter s. If you wish to combine ar t
fish - we recommend Coco Lezzone, for
dell’Orafo (vegetarians will love the
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shower, enjoy a glass of champagne at Lungar no Hotel’s Picteau Lounge (3) while watching the sun set and Ponte Vecchio, or an Amer icano cocktail cucumber is delicious), and then treat
Culture
your self to a romantic fish-based
If you have time, we suggest a visit to
dinner at Borgo San Iacopo restaurant
Palazzo Pitti’s Gallery of Modern Art:
(7), where the creative genius of Chef
the home of all great Tuscan Macchiaioli
Beatr ice Segoni never ceases to amaze .
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Ex traordinar y T ips
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morning afternoon 1
Breakfast
Enjoy a gourmet breakfast at Caffè dell’Oro (1), based on the use of organic ingredients (tr y the sheep’s milk ricotta cheese and goat’s milk cheese from the Langhe!). Art If you want to treat your self to an ar t gem off the beaten path of Florence’s more famous attractions, visit the Vasari Corridor (7). It is the Medici’s private and elevated corridor which r uns from Palazzo Pitti to the Uffizi Galler y and houses the wor ld’s oldest and most extensive ar tists’ self-por trait collection from the 1500s to the present day (Gian Lorenzo Bernini, Annibale Carracci, Rembrandt, Ingres, Chagall, De Chirico, Bill Viola and Jan
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Gardens
You cannot leave Florence without
visiting the Boboli Gardens (3), but you can also have a taste of the Tuscan countr yside at a five-minute walking distance from the Duomo: Via San Leonardo (5) is located downtown Florence , but is lined with villas with meadows and chickens r unning free . Shopping It is Florence’s chicest street, Via de’ Tornabuoni (fifty steps away from
to ask the concierge to book the visit before your arrival. Lunch Have a light lunch at Caffè dell’Oro
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Portrait Firenze), lined with Italian and foreign designer boutiques (4), jewelr y shops (2), gour met restaur ants and bar s. If your shopping destination is the Ponte Vecchio, remember these names: Cassetti,
Fratelli Peruzzi and Fratelli Piccini. Fabre are only a few of the great ar tists And if gems are your thing, then just on display). Visitor s are permitted only tur n the cor ner in Vicolo dell’Oro: upon reser vation, so you may want
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you’ll go cr azy for Leica camer as (6).
night
(tr y the Tris di Capresi) or at Borgo San Dinner Jacopo restaurant or, if you’d rather Enoteca Pinchiorri is traditionally enjoy a Dolce Vita-style atmosphere , at said to be Florence’s top restaurant Harr y’s Bar (taglierini au gratin, curr y-
(extraordinar y wine cellar, three Michelin-
flavoured prawn tails, beef tar tare).
starred restaurant).
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Portrait Firenze Types
collection
Stylish T ips
portrait Roma types
collection
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morning Breakfast
Whether you’re on a vacation with family and fr iends or on a business tr ip, star t the day by tucking into a delicious breakfast at Por trait Roma, just steps away from Piazza 5
di Spagna and in the hear t of Via Condotti. Alter natively, tr y the petit four s and colorful pr alines of Cristalli di Zucchero, in Via di Val Tellina 114. Ar t lover s should not miss the two must-see exhibitions of the season: Frida Kahlo, with 40 of the Mexican painter’s major wor ks on display at Scuder ie del Quir inale (1); and Andy Warhol, the father of Amer ican Pop Ar t, with over 150 paintings, photogr aphs and sculptures on loan from the Br ant
or at Dillà, typical Roman cuisine in Via Mar io de’ Fior i 41(3), go on a tour of the spots descr ibed in Oscarwinning movie The Great Beauty by Paolo Sor rentino. Ask the Por tr ait’s concier ge for infor mation and a car will take you to some of Rome’s most beautiful but lesser-known buildings, ter r aces and views (2-4). At aper itivo-time , stop at The Librar y in Vicolo della Canceller ia 7, or at La.Vi, dair y and wine shop in Via
night Dinner
Two different options for dinner. Gour met restaur ant Gli Ulivi in Via Luigi Luciani 23, in the Par ioli area, offer s a top-quality menu, extensive wine list and elegant ambience (5),
Foundation, showing at Palazzo
whilst Da Danilo is a family-r un
Cipolla (6).
tr attor ia ser ving tr aditional Roman
afternoon 7
bistro in the Monti neighborhood,
Tomacelli 23.
Art
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dishes in a fr iendly atmosphere . Cocktail Stop for an after-dinner dr ink at
Entertainment
Salotto 42, in Piazza di Pietr a 42 (7),
After a quick but sophisticated lunch
and then dance the night away at La
break at Urbana 47, French-like
Cabala, Via dei Soldati 25.
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