Holidays n°1 by RHEA MARKETING

2010/2011

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N° 1 - July 2010

Gastronomy

Gastronomy in Charente-Maritime ............................................ 5 Restaurants on the Ile de RŽ .......................................................... 7 Charming and unusual restaurants on the Ile de RŽ ....... 19 Restaurants in and around La Rochelle ................................. 23 Where to eat an icecream ............................................................ 28 Going out for a drink ...................................................................... 30

❱ Contents Products of the terroir

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Life on the île de Ré

The great outdoors ............................................................................ 41 Ancient buildings .............................................................................. 47 Cultural and artistic life ................................................................. 51

Life in Charente-Maritime

The publisher is not responsible for any inaccuracies, errors or omissions in «Holidays in Charente-Maritime». No part of this publication may be reproduced or used for advertising purposes or any other purposes. Advertising photos were provided by the advertisers, who are responsible in the case of any copyright disputes.

La Rochelle .......................................................................................... 57 Rochefort and surroundings ........................................................ 65 Royan and surroundings ............................................................... 73 Beautiful gardens in Charente-Maritime ............................... 74

Further away in Charente Cognac and surroundings

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Useful addresses A map of Charente-Maritime

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Useful information

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Editor in chief : Nathalie Vauchez Editorial : Catherine Bréjat Translation : Liam Gavin Cover pictures and page design by Alpha Studio Advertising : Rhéa Marketing - 19 av de Philippsburg BP 43 - 17410 Saint-Martin de Ré - Tél. + 33 (0)5 46 00 09 19 mail : rhea@rheamarketing.fr

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Printer : mccgraphics - Print run : 30 000 copies Legal deposit upon publication Holidays in Charente-Maritime is published by Rhéa Marketing Holidays est imprimé sur du papier écologique sans chlore et issu de forêts gérées durablement, avec des encres végétales, les déchets sont recyclés. Le logo ecoprinter et la certification PEFC de notre imprimeur le garantissent.

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❱ Help Us pRoteCt oUR ReGion Charente-Maritime is fortunate in having 420 km of coastline and a variety of natural environments of great ecological value ; but they need to be taken care of in order to maintain their natural equilibrium. them back in the same place, otherwise the flora will die. We should stress the fact that frequent checks are made and any breach of the fishing rules will be penalised. Familiarise yourself with the situation ; the rules are displayed on the beaches. Coastal preservation also involves protecting the dunes and the best way of doing so is to resist the temptation to climb and walk on them, no matter how beautiful they are, especially as it is strictly forbidden to do so. The flora is also fragile; admire it but refrain from picking huge bunches of wild flowers, even if they smell divine ! There are many country areas you may also visit. As for the beaches, please do not throw your rubbish there. If you cannot find a rubbish bin nearby, ask the tourist office for a list of places with containers where you can dispose of rubbish appropriately.  © AlphaStudio

The whole region is preoccupied with protecting these places and the species that live in them. Below are some simple guidelines for keeping our islands and coast clean and undisturbed. The foreshore is frequently devastated, most often through ignorance. The foreshore is the part of the beach that uncovers at low tide and in which families love to go rockpooling for clams, cockles, queen scallops, razor shells and other shellfish. The problem is that these species are in danger and rockpooling in family groups would provide a golden opportunity to raise childrenÕ s awareness of the problem. Various regional organisations publish their recommendations for ensuring the longterm sustainability of the foreshoreÕ s biodiversity. Among these, please note - it is important not to collect anything under the minimum authorised size; any of the tourist offices can give you a rule free of charge for measuring the size of shellfish and crustaceans so that you can put back any that are too small; donÕ t take more than 5 kg of shellfish; don’t turn stones and rocks over but, if you happen to do so by mistake, put

Gastronomy ❱ in CHaRente-maRitime...

Gastronomy in the Charente-Maritime area is intimately associated with the natural environment.

Look after your health. Drink moderately

... an art nurtured by its environment

The Ò dŽpartementÓ has 420 kilometres of coastline and four islands (Aix, Madame, OlŽron and RŽ) and is also home to the biggest oysterproducing area in Europe at Marennes-OlŽron. Inland, the undulating countryside is crisscrossed by fish-bearing rivers and streams and is home to animal farming in the north and vine growing in the east. The regionÕ s gastronomic specialities include all sorts of fish, available according to the depth at which they are caught, and there is a vast choice of shellfish and seafood, from oysters and mussels (those from Aiguillon and Charron are especially prized) to sea urchins, cockles, clams, queen scallops and razor-shells. If you enjoy rockpooling, you can find shrimp, velvet swimming crab, common crab and green crab. Animal rearing produces good-quality meat - Parthenais beef and Diamantin lamb are especially renowned. And, where there is animal farming, there will also be butter and cheese. The Poitou Charentes region produces half of

France’s goat’s milk cheeses, including the celebrated Chabichou, and the Charente-Maritime region is no less well-known for its Ò PigouilleÓ in the Marans area and on ë le dÕ OlŽr on and the small goats of Loix on ë le de RŽ. This is also a fruit and vegetable-producing area known, amongst other things, for its Ò mojettesÓ (small white and red beans), cabbages and onions and its early potatoes, the famous Ò Pommes de Terre de lÕ ë le de RŽ Ó , more of which later. Chefs in the area essentially use and draw inspiration from the areaÕ s produce to compose their menus, which they serve seasoned with ë le de RŽ salt and accompanied by local wines and cognac. In the following pages, you will find our selection of restaurants, a number of which serve gourmet cuisine. But we have also featured the cooking of a number of inspired young chefs who use local produce to create new dishes, as well as good places to enjoy a more simple lunch or order a quick plate of oysters. 

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Restaurants on the Ile de Ré ❱ les GollandiÈRes

Look after your health. Drink moderately

Elegance and ﬁne dining A friendly and elegant location, a fireplace in winter and a refreshingly cool pool to look onto in summer. Add to that a chef with a reputation - Frank Tememe - and you have all the right ingredients for a truly enjoyable meal. This restaurant, which is celebrating its fortieth anniversary this year, serves a variety of menus, one of which has been called Ò 40 AnsÓ for the occasion. At Û28, it includes a starter, main course and dessert as well as a Ò PoirillonÓ , a Pineau and pear spirit aperitif that was a house speciality forty years ago. From the “Les Gollandières” menu, you can try the great classic dishes that have made the chefÕ s reputation Ð Mediterranean prawnsÕ tails in tempura, home-prepared duck foie gras with Pineau on a bed of figs and Banyuls, scallop carpaccio with basil or a pan-seared beef fillet with a Bourgueil wine sauce - Û29 for a main course and cheese or dessert, Û34 for a starter and main and Û38 for a starter, main, cheese or dessert. Other specialities can be found on the Ò LobsterÓ menu at Û70 (to be ordered twenty-four hours

in advance) with its home-prepared duck foie gras and a glass of Sauternes, grilled lobster with tarragon and fresh goatÕ s cheese from Loix, or you may prefer a seafood platter (Û37) , which also needs to be ordered beforehand to avoid you having to wait. Manager Guillaume Mathieu will help you choose from the very good wine list. Please note that the restaurant is run independently of the hotel and that non-residents are welcome. 

Best Western Les Gollandi• res Avenue des Gollandi• res 17580 Le-Bois-Plage-en-RŽ Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 23 99 www.lesgollandieres.com

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❱ CHai noUs Comme CHai VoUs

Creativity in the kitchen Just a short walk from the charming harbour at La Flotte, Laurent Favier concocts his tasty dishes in an intimate setting. The menu is based on his morning trip to the market and the La Rochelle fish market, reflecting the changing seasons and the creative inspiration of the chef. He brings his talent to bear on these extremely fresh foods, producing subtle marriages of flavours that surprise and delight the palate, such exquisite pleasures as the pavŽ de Turbot ˆ la feuille de lime et noix de coco, or Dordogne strawberries with lemon balm. Laurent remains true to the local terroir, including the AOC Ile de RŽ potatoes that we find in specific recipes like his gâteau de pommes de terre au chèvre with goat’s cheese. To satisfy his customers and give them a more comprehensive appreciation of his

talent, he now offers a Û 39 gastronomic menu every mid-day and evening. The menu comprises 5 courses : a starter, fish, a meat dish, cheese and dessert. The lunch time Û19 menu offers, for example, a bowl of fish rillettes to share, a fish or meat dish, a dessert and a cafŽ gourmand. There is never any repetition, and the slate in the street announces the surprises of the day. A very fine wine list (175 references) accompanies this refined cuisine. This gourmet bistrot seats only 25 at a time so you are strongly advised to book in advance. 

Chai Nous Comme Chai Vous 1 rue de la Garde 17630 La Flotte Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 09 49 85

Photos © Incognito.fr

❱ la Baleine BleUe Fine dining

Look after your health. Drink moderately

Ideally situated with a panoramic view of the harbour in Saint-Martin-de-RŽ , La Baleine Bleue is one of the best restaurants on ë le de RŽ . The atmosphere Philippe Bodart has chosen for the place is one of informal stylishness. He has also taken on Christophe RouillŽ , a talented young chef whose impressive training record includes one of Guy SavoyÕ s bistrots in Paris, Château d’Artigny in the Touraine region and Boyer les Crayères in Reims. He has been at the establishment for a number of years already and, true to house tradition, he principally uses wild fish bought only at La Rochelle’s fish auction and vegetables in season from the local market. His dishes

are cooked to perfection and seasoned only to the point of enhancing flavour without altering the taste of his ingredients. At lunchtime, there is a menu at Û 28 for a starter and main course or main course and dessert. For dinner, it will cost Û 38 for an appetiser, main course and dessert and, if you add a starter, it will come to Û 43. The house keeps a good selection of wines to accompany this delicious fare. The setting is elegant with three terraces from which you can watch the boats in fine weather. Open from 11pm to 2am Ð a champagne bar much frequented by night-owls, serving fifteen or so types of champagne as well as cognac. 

La Baleine Bleue ”lot de Saint-Martin 17410 Saint-Martin-de-RŽ Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 03 30

A DV E R T I S E M E N T

★★★

Hotel Le Peu Breton One of the islandÕ s characteristic venelles leads to where the H™ tel du Peu Breton nestles in a pocket of peace and tranquillity in the heart of La Noue. The hotel is established in an old RŽ residence and outhouses, forming a cocoon where the keyword is relaxation. Simple materials and natural colours lend added authenticity to the setting. Martine and Patrick Petit took over in 2006 and developed the hotel with a view to greater comfort, being awarded the European Ecolabel in July 2009 and a third star on June 15, 2010.

31 rue de la Cailleti• re La Noue 17740 Sainte Marie de RŽ Tel. +33 (0)5 46 37 15 35 hotel.peu-breton@wanadoo.fr www.hotelpeubreton.com

Enjoy the tasty breakfasts indoors or on the terrace. The jam is homemade and there is a preference for local and organic fare. The hotel does not provide a restaurant service in the classic sense of the term, but in summer you can savour a platter of cold pork sausages and meats or a selection of cheeses with a glass of an excellent red wine.

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The gracious hollyhocks, bicycle and boat trips, the market exploding with colour, the beach at 400m, an open-air swimming pool in the hotel garden : everything is calculated to make your stay a moment of sheer pleasure.

A bar with a piano welcomes you for your evening aperitif, with music once a week. The atmosphere is friendly and unpretentious, as is the welcome and service provided by Martine, Patrick and their personnel.

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Restaurants

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❱ le CHat Botté For the last twenty-five years, Daniel MassŽ , the owner-chef at Le Chat BottŽ, has been stimulating the taste buds of anyone who is sufficiently devoted to good food and wine to make the journey to Saint-ClŽm ent des Baleines to taste his fare. His classic style of cooking has its roots in ële de RŽ, its environment and its local produce, which he defends tooth and nail, making no concessions when it comes to quality. The fish he cooks is wild, which he makes very clear on his menu because he fetches it himself from the port in La Rochelle. His oysters are supplied by Frédéric Voisin and are served as they are or hot with a zabaglione made with RŽ Pineau. All his ingredients can be easily identified and traced. In a calm, wooded setting, the restaurant has a terrace and large garden. There are four menus to choose from, ranging from Û22.50 to Û75 and named according to the origin of the dishes Ð Ò Les BaleinauxÓ features lobster caught at the foot of the Baleines lighthouse ; Ò Les CoureauleursÓ has langoustines and croaker caught from Ò coureauleursÓ , small boats used for fishing where they are most plentiful – that is, between the islands of RŽ and OlŽron.

A homage to local produce

The Ò Pleine MerÓ menu includes premium types of fish caught at sea, such as sea bream and cod, and Ò Le PlatinÓ (meaning Ò waterÕ s edgeÓ ) has mullet, which lives in such waters. If none of these menus appeals to you, there will doubtless be something to your taste Ò ˆ la carteÓ . The desserts are every bit as good as the rest of the menu and we can especially recommend the Grand Marnier soufflé and crunchy chocolate treat (Ò croustillant au chocolatÓ ) ! The wine list also fulfils every expectation of an establishment such as this ! 

Restaurant Le Chat BottŽ 20 rue de la Mairie 17590 Saint-ClŽ ment des Baleines Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 42 09 Rated 2 forks in the Michelin Guide & 1 star in the Bottin Gourmand

PORT DE ST MARTIN DE RÉ

LeÊS kipper All you can eat at breakfast for €9.50 A choice of Coffee-Chocolate-Tea Fruit juice Croissant, pains au chocolat Baguette, butter, honey, jam An assortment of breakfast cereals Hot buffet Omelette, bacon, egg, sausage

Restaurant de la Mer Port de Saint martin de Ré Tel: +33 (0)5 46 09 20 38 e-mail: leskipper@wanadoo.fr

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In season: 8:30am – 11:00am

❱ il GaBBiano The great italian tradition Viccenzo Gallizi, from Calabria in southern Italy, offers his clients excellent pizzas cooked in a wood-fired oven as well as authentic Italian cooking based on traditional recipes and seasonal produce. In the dining room or outside on the terrace (which backs onto a pedestrian street), you can sample some of his many antipasti dishes, fresh home-made pasta and delicatessen meats, including copa, ham and Calabrian sausages. His Italian ice cream, from Coppa Amarena and Gelati Assortiti to Zabaione al Marsala and Tartufo al Cioccolato, are all extremely

difficult to resist. This is also one of the few restaurants where you can enjoy a glass of premium-quality Italian wine; the choice isnÕ t restricted to Valpolicella or Chianti, but also includes a number of excellent bottles from Tuscany, Piedmont and Calabria. In the take-away catering section, you can buy ready-prepared dishes, antipasti, delicatesse meats, cheese and, of course, pizzas cooked to order. ViccenzoÕ s large dining room opens at lunchtime and in the evening for service by his all-Italian staff. 

piZZas italian cooking

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Look after your health. Drink moderately

15 rue du GŽ nŽ ral de Gaulle - 17630 La Flotte Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 60 08

Restaurants

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❱ le maRtRay Charm and ﬂavour In February 2008, Sylvie and Pascal Dalla-Rosa opened Hotel Le Matray, the restaurant of which had remained closed for six years, after completely redecorating it with great taste. The restaurant has already gained a reputation for the quality of its inventive cooking based on the best types of fish available and chef Thierry Brenuchot won the French “ Trophée Masse du Foie Gras” in 2009 for his home-made foie gras. It is most definitely worth trying this new restaurant to the island, which changes its menus four times a year. Some of the Ò star attractionsÓ remain on the menu all year; they may just be prepared and presented differently as the seasons change. The lobster is taken live from a tank right in front of you. Prices are reasonable Û 21 to Û 27 for a main course. There is a Ò surpriseÓ menu with two starters, main course and dessert at Û 45 and another at Û 33. At lunchtime, except on Sundays and public holidays, two menus are on offer Ð one with three courses for Û 24 and another with two courses for Û 19. The wines, chosen by

Pascal and James François from Maison Thienot, include a good amount of Burgundy and Bordeaux at reasonable prices alongside Vin de Pays from the Charente area. The welcome and service match the cuisine ; you wonÕ t regret coming. In summer, there is a pleasant, sunny terrace. 

Le Martray H™ tel-Restaurant-Bistrot BranchŽ 8, route dÕ Ars - 17590 Ars en RŽ Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 40 04 www.hotel-le-martray.com

❱ le RiCHelieU The setting is elegant, a Relais & Châteaux establishment. And there is an exceptional view of the sea from the restaurant and terrace. The décor is refined. All the conditions are conducive to spending a moment of sheer pleasure in the Richelieu gastronomic restaurant. The chef, Frédéric Mauchien, makes simple dishes based on quality products. Good products, cooked to perfection to the nearest second, this is the young chef’s first article of faith. He goes on to recommend eating regional food, knowing the suppliers and discovering everything the terroir has to offer. This is how, starting out from a Marans hen from breeders he knows, he combines eggs with AOC Ile de RŽ potatoes with their distinctive flavour, and prepares a poultry breast fermier stuffed with langoustines !

Imagination and creation also grow out of our encounters and this is what enables him to completely renew his carte several times a year. Two menus, one at Û55 and the other at Û65, complete the offer, along with the suggestions of the day at lunchtime. The suggestions of the day are based on the morningÕ s purchases at the market and the daily creation of the recipe that combines them, a blending of flavours where all of Frédéric’s art comes into play, a moment of rare pleasure. This apparently simple cuisine Ð though it would be more appropriate to speak of simplicity in sophistication Ð is further enhanced by the grands crus in the Richelieu’s magnificent cellar. StŽp hane Thomas, the wine waiter, will advise you on a choice of wines. The restaurant is in the hands of a young and energetic crew that tends discreetly and effectively to your every need throughout the meal. 

a moment

of sheer

Look after your health. Drink moderately

pleasure

Relais & Ch‰ teaux Avenue de la Plage 17630 La Flotte Tel. +33 (0)5 46 09 60 70

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❱ le seRGHi Food for thought Alexandre Brunner, the young owner of Ò Le SerghiÓ , has completely done up and redecorated his restaurant so that it is somewhere to visit as well as a good place to eat. There is always something to see, whether itÕ s paintings, sculptures or photos. Just as importantly, he has taken on a real chef - Fabien Billières, who comes from Toulouse. Fabien learnt his skills at the “Auberge du Vieux Puits” in Fontjoncouse in the Corbières area. His priority is to source premium-grade products for which he personally goes to the market and fishing harbour every morning. He also buys some of JeanMarc AndrŽ Õ s daily catch when he returns to harbour. He cooks according to what is in season, which is why, apart from the great classics, his menu changes every month. Like his cooking, his dishes are devoid of gratuitous embellishment. His aim is to cook quality products to perfection without allowing the garnish or accompaniment to mask the flavour. Quality obviously comes at a price, but his excellent knowledge of the trade means he is able to offer excellent food at reasonable prices and Fabien may well suggest a line-caught alternative (Ò loubineÓ ) to wild sea bass, for example. The lunchtime menu changes daily and will cost Û 11 for a main course or Û 16 for a main course and dessert. In the evening, the bill will come to

an average €30 to €35. Eugène Guarinos is in charge of service and will guide you in your choice of wines. The wine list includes bottles from all the great French wine-producing regions, but Eugène and Fabien also try to find small producers with good wines at very reasonable prices. One we particularly liked was an AOC Corbières SerresMazard. Another advantage is that the terrace is in the sun at lunchtime and, in the evening, you can enjoy an especially beautiful island sunset. 

15 quai Georges ClŽ menceau 17410 Saint-Martin de RŽ Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 03 92

❱ la taBle d’oliVia Standing at the entrance to Saint-Martin de RŽÕ s harbour, the H™t el de Toiras (Relais et Châteaux) was awarded a fifth star in March 2010. It thus became the first 5-star establishment on ële de RŽ and in the Poitou-Charentes region. Obtaining a fifth star was the result of lengthy and meticulous restoration of this 17C building, which benefits from a stunning location. The establishment is entirely in keeping with its past Ð nothing ostentatious but plenty of quality and charm. The same goes for its restaurant, Ò La Table dÕOli viaÓ , which we recommend for its lovely, peaceful garden, as well as for its cuisine of course. The focal point of chef Thierry Bouhier’s menu is fish and seafood, although the exact ingredients he uses will depend on what he has found at the morning fish auction and in the fruit & vegetable market. Besides

a few classics, such as chocolate soufflé and duck foie gras, honey cake and candied melon sauce, the dishes change daily, as does the way they are prepared. And it shouldnÕ t be forgotten that Thierry prepares everything himself ! Besides a regular choice of two fish dishes and a meat course, the restaurant has a menu starting at Û 65 for an appetiser, starter, main course and dessert. The wine list is comprehensive with plenty of French wines, all of good quality. ThereÕ s a strong chance that, if you once try this establishment, youÕ ll be back to stay for a while in its exquisite hotel. 

Look after your health. Drink moderately

a delightful restaurant for a lovely hotel

H™ tel de Toiras - Relais et Ch‰ teaux 1, Quai Job Foran - 17410 Saint-Martin-de RŽ Tel : +33 (0)5 46 35 40 32 www.hotel-de-toiras.com Restaurant closed on Tuesday and Wednesday in summer Restaurant closed on Sunday and Monday from October to May

Look after your health. Drink moderately

❱ CHaRminG and UsUal RestaURants Un Air de Famille A small, very pleasant and sunny terrace looking out onto the classic architecture of the Place la RŽpubl ique. The interior is in keeping with family tradition on the island, with portraits of ancestors hanging on the walls. Family-style food with simply-cooked dishes accompanied by savoury tarts, delicious spreads on toast and a variety of mixed salads. A dish of the day is indicated on the chalk board at the entrance and the desserts are difficult to resist, all at a modest price. 2 Place de la RŽpublique - 17410 Saint-Martin - Tel. : +33 (0)5 46 01 65 36

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La Cabane du Fier In the quaint setting of an oysterfarming hut with a large terrace overlooking the Fier d’Ars, Christophe Frigière prepares his meals from fresh vegetables, fish and seafood over a wood-fired grill. The menu of this friendly and informal restaurant changes frequently. Worth going to, if only for the view or for the sunset in fine weather.

Lieu-dit Le Martray - 17590 Ars en RŽ - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 41 20

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Look after your health. Drink moderately

Café du Commerce The CafŽ du Commerce in Ars is more than just a cafŽ restaurant ; it is also an institution where many locals used to gather in their youth to remonstrate against the establishment. In the 60s, it was also the haunt of many stars of the French cinema when they came to the island on holiday. Ideally located on the harbour in Ars, it has a large terrace where its customers can sit to be seen. Its interior decoration, like its menu, is of American inspiration with copious refreshing salads, cr•pes and Tex-Mex dishes. 6 quai de la PrŽe - 17590 Ars en RŽ - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 41 57

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Le Bistrot du Marin With its ambience reminiscent of a return from fishing, warm and friendly interior decor, a well-oriented terrace in summer and fast, efficient service, this has become a very popular spot for coffee in the morning sun, an aperitif at the bar or a meal. On the menu, there is a choice of two starters, a meat course, fish dish and two desserts at reasonable prices. The menu even changes daily ! At the bar, there will usually be something to snack on while enjoying an aperitif. 10 Quai Nicolas Baudin - 17410 - Saint-Martin de RŽ - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 68 74 66

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Chai Pépette Original décor, a bistrot ambience, a few high tables – and the scene is set. All reflecting the personality of Pépette and his boisterous sense of humour. You can choose between the slate of the date or the great classics of the house, rib of beef or foie gras. The platters : oysters charcuterie or cheese, are served all day long. Pizzas : eat in or take away. The terrace is overlooking the Place dÕ Antioche. 5 place dÕA ntioche - 17740 Saint Marie de RŽ - Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 30 03 55

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Les Tilleuls

We feel the charm of this restaurant as soon as we enter it. With a fine terrace at the front and a charming little courtyard at the back, it is unlike any other. The owner, Ludovic PelŽ, an artist and inveterate antique hunter, also owns the deco boutique next door, where we can admire some of his work. Crepes, couscous, pizzas, large salads with goatÕ s cheese or Ile de RŽ potato salads, you are sure to find something to your taste. Prices are reasonable and the house has a menu with a starter, main dish and dessert for Û16.50. Have a look in the deco boutique as you leave, you wonÕ t be disappointed. Place des Tilleuls - La Noue - 17740 Sainte-Marie de RŽ - Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 30 02 76

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❱ RestaURants in & aRoUnd la RoCHelle

❱ le BistRot de Rémi massé Rue Saint-Jean du Perrot is the restaurant street in La Rochelle, a street that is only waiting to be discovered in a variety of different ways. We recommend a visit to Le Bistrot de RŽ mi MassŽ , one of our favourites. RŽ mi keeps an eye on things from his openplan kitchen overlooking the chic dining area, sometimes chatting with regulars as he prepares his light and inventive dishes based on fresh produce from the fish market and the fruit and vegetable market. RŽ mi is a lover of the Basque country, and it shows in his cooking : Basque ham delivered directly, Espelette peppers and piquillos regularly feature on the carte, along with RŽ miÕ s favourites, fillet of wild bass with fresh spinach, parillada ˆ la plancha, marrow bone entrec™ te and rib of beef for two. There is a special lunch-hour menu on working days for customers in a hurry : a starter, main dish and a glass of wine for Û 19.

The quality of the wines matches that of the dishes, which gives you an idea why this address is really worth trying. RŽ mi selects the wines himself from authentic wines made with old-style vinification methods. His wife, VŽ ronique, receives the customers and is pleasantly and discreetly attentive to your every need. 

this is a very popular address, so it is a

good idea to reserve in advance.

59 rue Saint-Jean du PŽ rot 17000 La Rochelle Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 43 56 08

La Solette

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The very reasonably priced La Solette bar-restaurant is situated on a charming place in the fashionable Saint-Nicolas district. It is located in a dreamhouse and has a large open-air terrace. As soon as the fine weather begins, people begin to frequent the Solette in the morning for a typically French breakfast with a croissant and a long piece of baguette with butter. For those who feel peckish during the day, the house proposes plates of whelks or shrimps with homemade mayonnaise or a half-dozen six oysters. There are different menus at mealtimes ranging from Û 12 to Û 19, Û 20 and Û 21 for a starter, a main course and a dessert but you can also settle for a sandwich or a large salad. The chefÕ s proposals are displayed on a slate each day. It is a very friendly place where it is easy to meet people from the city and the local district who drop in for a drink and a chat with the patron.

11 Place de la Fourche - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 41 06 33

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Look after your health. Drink moderately

Le Confident Nestling in a small street in the centre of La Rochelle, this restaurant which nevertheless provides an excellent cuisine at reasonable prices is rarely mentioned in guidebooks. Wilfrid Bedin, the chef, and Sandrine his wife have made the Confident, named after an old armchair, a cosy space with a retro atmosphere and old posters on the walls. After a busy career that took him from Monaco to Paris, via Biarritz, Wilfrid decided, much to our delight, to settle in his native La Rochelle. He concocts tasty dishes that are influenced by different cuisines from all over the world. The carte changes every three months and the menus, with a starter and main dish, or starter, main dish and dessert, are an invitation to culinary delights at a reasonable price. The lunchtime slate has a plat du jour and dessert for Û14 or a plat du jour on its own for Û9. Which is why it is a good reason to reserve at lunchtime. They have some reasonably-priced tasty little wines that Sandrine will help you to choose from. 26 rue Admyrault - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 51 82 75

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Le Boute en Train

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Over the years this restaurant situated in a quiet little street just a few steps from the central marketplace has built up a solid reputation for quality food at a reasonable price, so much so that now you have to reserve a place Ð even at lunchtime. A substantial part of its charm comes from the modern bistro ambience and warm décor, with an open fire in winter and a terrace in summer, and the young and lively staff. Combined with the fact that the chefÕ s cuisine has a way of winning our hearts. The menu is displayed on blackboards: seven or eight starters with as many desserts, and main dishes based on meat and fish that change with the seasons. The great classics of French cuisine are reinterpreted and modernized. A large choice of wines served by the glass or bottle completes this restaurantÕ s offer.

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7 rue des Bonnes Femmes - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel. +33 (0)5 46 41 73 74

A DV E R T I S E M E N T

Hôtel Saint Jean d’Acre ★★★

The most beautiful part of La Rochelle, at the foot of the towers in the Vieux Port. The hotel, superbly located at the foot of 2 Towers making the entry into the harbour, offers the privilege of discovering the historic town round the clock : cobblestone streets, medieval houses, museums, monuments. Swayed by the beauty of the setting between the Old Port and the Old Town... 60 rooms including 12 family rooms for 3-4 guests : soundproofing, air-conditioning, flat-screen TV, Canal +, satellite TV channels, minibar, Internet, free Wifi throughout hotel, public Internet connection in lobby. Nearby : 40 ha of parks, casino, beaches, aquarium, zoo, touring of La Rochelle, museums, mini-cruise to the Isles (Ré, Oléron, Aix) and Ford Boyard... For business stays : 4 seminar rooms, including 1 with a panoramic view over the Old Port. Just steps away : restaurants and brasseries Acces via motorway 10, exit Niort and Saintes, La Rochelle, follow signs indicating Ç Centre Ville/ Vieux Port, Prefecture È , parking Saint Jean dÕ Acre.

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www.hotel-la-rochelle.com info@hotel-la-rochelle.com

4 place de la Cha”ne - 17000 La Rochelle - TŽl . +33 (0)5 46 41 73 33 - Fax. +33 (0)5 46 41 10 01

❱ N°1 JULY 201 0

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❱ les JaRdins dU laC ... stands in the middle of lovely grounds opposite a lake, where the atmosphere is best described as one of peace and tranquillity. The large picture windows of the ground-floor restaurant look out onto the grounds and, in good weather, lunch or dinner are served on the terrace. Ò Les jardins du LacÓ is known as one of the Poitou-Charentes regionÕ s best places to eat. This is gastronomic fare at reasonable prices, which is fairly unusual. Michel and his son, Johann, are in the kitchen, where they use goodquality regional produce that is in season, prepared in such a way as to bring out the flavours rather than mask them. The fish is of the very best variety and quality; we recommend the poached wild turbot, green aspara-

gus in morel mushroom juice, line-caught sea bass or sole from OlŽr on. If you prefer meat, try the canon of roast lamb with garden herb crumble Ð you wonÕ t regret it. The desserts live up to the rest of the menu; we couldnÕ t resist the Ò pomme Belchard confite”, an orange and green tea jelly and an apple sorbet, all of which were served with an almond biscuit. A very good, comprehensive wine list helps to complete a perfect meal. MichelÕ s wife, Sabine, provides charming service and will take good care of you throughout your meal. 

Photos © Jardin du Lac

Look after your health. Drink moderately

this hotel restaurant, owned by the suire family...

Les Jardins du Lac Hotel and restaurant 3 Chemin Fontchaude - 17250 Trizay Tel : +33 (0)5 46 82 03 56

Where to eat an icecream N°1 JULY 201 0

❱ Best addResses FoR an iCe CReam Ernest le Glacier

two shops at the Vieux Port : Just around the corner from the harbour, Ò Ernest le GlacierÓ is THE best ice cream shop in La Rochelle and somewhere everyone should try at least once in a lifetime ! Brothers Freddy and Nicolas Babin, who have inherited their work ethic and notion of quality from their grandfather Ernest, are responsible for this success. They add new, original and unusual flavours every year and there are now almost 80 to choose from. Maybe youÕ ll be tempted by their new Bourbon vanilla rice pudding ice cream or sorbet made with woodland strawberries, marshmallow, violet. Our big favourite is the Ò MŽdi terranŽenneÓ Ð blood orange sorbet, candied fig and walnuts which you can enjoy with a shortbread crescent ice cream or a dark chocolate and pepper nougatine sorbet. 

16 rue du Port - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 50 55 60 48 cours des Dames - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 43 48 65

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Conﬁserie Lopez Manuel Lopez belongs to an established family of confectioners who opened their first business in Cognac in 1924. Manuel has run the Royan business with his wife Catherine since 1989. He often changes the flavours of his ice creams with each new season. Our favourites were Florale (jasmine, violet, poppy & rose geranium) and Coffee-cardamom-vanilla-Sichuan pepper. Confiserie Lopez also sells caramels, barley sugar, marshmallow and their celebrated Ò ninichesÓ , a soft caramel speciality from Bordeaux.

16 Front de Mer - 17100 Royan - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 50 55 60

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La Martinière

Nobody can come to Saint-Martin de RŽ without eating an ice cream at La Martinière, at the harbour. Some people even come especially for that reason. This success hasnÕ t taken place overnight but the reason for such enduring popularity is that their ice creams and sorbets are of an outstanding quality. As well as the great classics, such as their “fleur de sel” & caramel ice cream, they add new flavours with incongruous names each year such as oyster and caviar, cactus flower, Camembert and cherry, Viagra and island potato. A smaller ice cream shop has just opened on the harbour in La Flotte.

17-19 quai de la Poithevini•r e - 17410 Saint-Martin de RŽ - Tel : +33(0)5 46 09 20 99

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Going out for a drink N°1 JULY 201 0

❱ BaRs and late-niGHt eatinG & dRinKinG in ❱ Mattaï Café

12 rue de la Bletterie - 17000 La Rochelle Tel : +33 (0)5 46 41 45 23 Open daily 5pm-2am

Chic & stylish decor for a drink on the terrace on a warm summer evening or inside listening to rock, electro or drum & bass while sipping cocktails with provocative names !

❱ Le Bergamote

Cour du Temple - 17000 La Rochelle Tel : +33 (0)5 46 41 72 69

Open daily in July and August from 12 noon to 2am

For enthusiasts of sailing and rum and for a complete change of atmosphere, the exotic decoration of this bar - sand on the floor and bamboo plants matches its name perfectly (WorldÕ s End). Ti-punch and all kinds of rum available while listening to Jamaican and African rhythms.

Just around the corner from the seafront in the centre of the old quarter, exotic, convivial decoration for an early evening Matta• or Viagra cocktail with tapas. Dancing to Ò funkÓ music after midnight.

❱ Au Bout du Monde

Port des Minimes - 17000 La Rochelle Tel : +33 (0)5 46 52 23 64 Open daily from 5pm to 2am

■ A friendly, local bar run by Fran & Bruno, where friends can come

for a chat, play chess, cards or dice to a background of pop-rock music from the 60s right up to the latest sounds.

■ A small, traditional-style bar that’s rare to find these days, in a tiny

street just around the corner from La Rochelle’s Vieux Port.

Tapas offered by the owners free of charge with drinks...for as long as they last... ■ Broadcasts of all sporting events from different available channels (terrestrial TV as well as digital and satellite, e.g. TNT, Canal+, Sport+, Foot+, Rugby+, Eurosport)

LA TRAPPE-SOURIS Bar-Pub - 5 Rue Verdière - LA ROCHELLE 17000 - Tél. 05 46 29 07 06

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■ «Tapas-Emballent» cocktail hour every Thursday evening from 6pm.

An authentic RŽunion-s tyle rum bar where the terrace has an outstanding view of the Baie de Bonne-Anse. Restaurant with Tex-Mex specialities, Ti-punch, Pina Colada and wild rhythms.

❱ Le Golfy

Port de Bonne-Anse 17570 La Palmyre-Les MathŽ s Tel : +33 (0)5 46 22 45 76

Open daily 1 May to 10 September from 8am to 10pm

A friendly bar on a Latin American theme. Mojitos and island rum galore. A good place to spend some time before going to the Boucquingam across the road.

❱ Cubana Café

9 Venelle de la Fosse Bray 17410 Saint-Martin de RŽ Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 93 49

Closed Monday out of high season. Otherwise open daily from 7pm to 2am

in CHaRente-maRitime Chic, cosy bar with glamorous, hip musical ambience where itÕ s appropriate to drink a glass of champagne or the house cocktail. Superb view of Royan harbour from the terrace.

❱ Le Floor

8, Quai Amiral Meyer - 17200 Royan Tel : +33 (0)5 46 39 01 10

Open daily from 11am to 2am

The only night club open all year on ële de RŽ, La Playa is especially popular in July and August. Plenty of theme evenings, a large dance floor and a variety of ambiences spread throughout this vast place.

❱ Club La Playa

Route des Grenettes - 17740 Sainte-Marie Tel : +33 (0)5 46 30 15 46

Look after your health. Drink moderately

Open every night in July and August from 11.30pm to 5am

Baroque decor with an amazing red bar and the latest sounds, this is THE club in SaintMartin de RŽ . Parisian DJ in high season, small groups of musicians currently in vogue and exotic rhythms with Djembe drums; plenty of interest to keep you from boredom ! The evening begins at midnight, but you can have sushi beforehand at the bar near the club entrance.

❱ Le Boucquingam

Tapas bar with a great terrace overlooking the port. Sangria, a large choice of rum cocktails and wild African decor on the first floor, where you can have a bite to eat. Friendly and hospitable.

❱ Le Cervane

Quai Launay-Razilly 17410 Saint-Martin de RŽ Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 20 99

Bar and restaurant with music mixed by a DJ. Champagne is frequently served as this is a chic place in which to be seen. The owners also run a local night club - Le Rancho Ð opposite in the same street.

❱ La Villa Finzy

56-58 Avenue de la Ganipote 17420 Saint-Palais-sur-Mer Tel : +33 (0)5 46 39 74 78 Open daily from 7pm to 2am.

3 Venelle de la Fosse Bray 17410 Saint-Martin de RŽ Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 01 20 Open every night in July and August from midnight to 5am

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Look after your health. Drink moderately

Productsof the terroir The Cistercian monks who came to ë le de RŽ in the 12C quickly realised that the islandÕ s different soil types, the influence of the Gulf Stream and

Served chilled at any time of year, this wonderfully refreshing beverage is most definitely worth sampling ! Another flagship product is

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Look after your health. Drink moderately

❱ Wine les ViGneRons de l Île de Ré plentiful sunshine (more than 2,600 hours a year) combined to create the ideal conditions for growing vines. At present, the vines occupy 650 hectares (1,606 acres) of land mostly in the southern part of the island and produce 35 000 to 40 000 hectolitres of wine a year, approximately equivalent to two million bottles. The distinguishing feature of this vineyard area is that half is planted with white grape varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Colombard and Ungni Blanc while the other half is given over to black grape varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet, Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Négrette. All the island’s grape growers belong to the UNIRE cooperative, an amalgamation with the islandÕ s other cooperative farmers (fruit & vegetable growers) dating from 2008. In recent years, much has been done to improve the quality of the wines produced and to the creation of some excellent Ò Vins de PaysÓ , including red, white and rosŽ Ò Soif dÕ ƒ vasionÓ and Ò Ultimium 2007Ó . The cooperativeÕ s signature product is nonetheless its white and rosŽ Ò Pineau IlrhŽ aÓ (from RhŽ a, the old name for RŽ ).

“Rosé des Dunes”, a five-times prize winner in ten years. Grown on the islandÕ s light, sandy soils, it makes a great accompaniment to fish and grills. The remainder of the production includes still white, red and rosŽ wines, white and rosŽ sparkling wines and cognacs. Mellow gold and white tea in colour with vanilla aromas, their Ò 40¡ SudÓ cognac is very good served chilled as an aperitif. After dinner, a lightly warmed, caramel-coloured Ò Gouverneur VSOPÓ would be ideal, while the 3-star Ò GouverneurÓ can be used in cocktails or to flambé shrimps, lobster, bananas and cr• pes. Ò ë le de Ré XO” and “Île de Ré Fine Island” have been specifically developed for the Maison Camus cognac firm. Winery visits can be arranged for groups at any time of year by priorarrangement, as well as in July and August at 10.30am and 3.30pm. Wine advisors and oenologists are available for advice and to organise tastings every day of the week. 

Route de Sainte-Marie 17580 Le Bois Plage Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 23 09 Site : www.vigneronsiledere.com

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Situated in a green setting, Les Maraises campsite extends over approximately 4.5 hectares. Les Maraises is shady and calm with lots of room for tents, caravans and camper vans. With mobile homes for 1 to 8 people and «Caribbean» tents that sleep 4-5, as well as sanitary blocks, sports facilities, a theatre, snack bar and a large terrace. The campsite is open every year from the Easter school holidays right through to Halloween. It is the ideal setting for a successful family holiday. With daytime and evening activities and entertainment for young and old all through the season. All season long the bar and campsite organize shows and entertainment (stand-up comedians, cabarets, concerts, magicians and more).

7 Chemin des Salières - 17410 Saint-Martin de Ré Tél : 05 46 09 67 13 - Fax : 05 46 09 58 75 www.camping-les-maraises.com campinglesmaraises@wanadoo.fr

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The Ile de Ré, 30 kilometres long and 5 kilometres wide at its broadest, is a cyclists’ paradise. You are welcome all year round on one of the Atlantic’s most beautiful islands. Ré offers you a mild climate and an amazing amount of sunshine. The fresh west wind comes over the ocean, combining with the warm air currents of the Gulf Stream to chase the clouds away and keep the island permanently bright and sunny – to the delight of islanders and visitors alike.

“Les Régalades”

The first early potatoes to appear are much in demand, such that the UNIRÉ cooperative society, together with the islandÕ s community organisation and ë le de RŽ Tourisme, organises a two-day event - Ò Les RŽ galadesÓ - to celebrate their arrival on the market. Throughout the event, local participating restaurants all propose one or more recipes using PDO Ò Pommes de Terre de lÕ ”le de RŽ Ó . On the same occasion, it is also worth stopping at the cooperatives in Bois Plage en RŽ and dÕ Ars-en-RŽ , where other local produce and products are on offer, including salt, oysters, wine, cognac, beer and jam. Cycle rides through the fields, salt marshes and vineyards are available too.

Information and reservations : Île de Ré Tourisme - BP 39 3, rue Père Ignace - 17410 Saint-Martin de Ré - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 23 09

❱ Île de Ré eaRly potatoes ë le de RŽ produces an early potato the qualities of which were officially recognised in 1998, when it became the first potato to receive a French PDO (1) label. The islandÕ s mild climate, generous amounts of sunshine, unique growing conditions and natural environment are responsible for the very special flavour of this potato. To produce their 2,500 tonnes of precious tubers, 35 farmers cultivate 150 hectares (371 acres) by rotation within the 900-hectare (2,224 acres) PDO area. At one time, this attractive and delicious potato was the islandÕ s only true cash crop besides barley. It was not until the islandÕ s other early crops went into decline that any thought was given to its fate and it was decided to improve production methods by planting in the open ground, systematically monitoring dry matter content to ensure optimum taste and texture, and planting only in soils most likely to give the very best results. Its inimitable taste is regularly checked by an official tasting panel and monitored by the French

PDO organisation, the Institut National des Appellations dOrigine et de la Qualité. To maintain their early-crop status, they must be harvested and sold before 31 July inclusive of the year of the harvest. There are two early-producing varieties, the first being the light yellow-fleshed Alcmaria, which arrives on the markets from mid-April. It has an almost melt-in-the-mouth texture and is wonderful when steamed. This is followed by the Charlotte variety, available from mid-May to the end of June. Its firm, yellow flesh means it can be cooked in a variety of waysÉ with a Ò racletteÓ , for example. New potatoes are more delicate than those intended for long storage and, to ensure they are at their best when eaten, should be kept in the dark and used at the most nine days after being picked and packed.  (1) PDO = Ò Protected Designation of OriginÓ European Union quality scheme

S.C.A. UNIRƒ Mara”chers de lÕ ële de RŽ Route de Sainte-Marie 17580 Le Bois Plage en RŽ Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 23 09

OYSTERS : a treat for the tastebuds There are 15,000 small, family-run businesses producing oysters in Charente-Maritime. Oyster farming is a difficult profession that demands great efforts and is entirely subject to the right weather conditions. Oysters are effectively Ò raisedÓ and it takes three years and many different handling operations before they can be farmed for eating. The last few months are the most important, when they are fattened and acquire their ultimate taste and texture. The flavour of an oyster depends on where and how it is fattened; very different qualities are thus obtained, reflected in the names given to the final product – “Fines”, “Fines de Claires” and “Spéciales”. “Fines” oysters are fattened at sea; “Fines de Claires” are fattened in clear water - that is, in old salt marshes where the clay-rich bottom imparts a certain hazelnut flavour. Ò SpŽ cialesÈ are fattened in the marshes with particular attention given to providing them with copious amounts of food, giving them a dense flesh of outstanding quality. Whenever you are out and about on the islands of Ré and Oléron, you will find many places for making an impromptu stop to taste oysters, often served with a glass of local white wine. Alternatively of course, you can order them in many of the regionÕ s restaurants.

Au bon Saucisson

A French speciality for discriminating palates Ò Au Bon SaucissonÓ cured sausages can be found at the various markets on ë le de RŽ . Different members of the family run the stands Ð Patricia the mother at Les Portes en RŽ , her husband Jacques at La Couarde, Laure at Le Bois Plage, her husband Nicolas at La Flotte and his young sister Elsa at Ars. It was Patricia who started the company and created the recipes for her sausages, which she has made on the mainland. There are plenty of flavours to choose from on the market stalls

and, for the summer, we can recommend her fennel or Pineau des Charentes saucissons, an extra lean variety or another made with donkey meat, but not forgetting this yearÕ s latest addition, made with goatÕ s milk cheese ! Last year also saw the introduction of two others, one with basil and the other with ham. For your aperitifs, you can also buy some tasty fresh products such as original tapenades, vegetable dips and thirty or so different types of olive.

ZA - Le Fond du Marais - 17940 Rivedoux - Tel : +33 (0)6 62 36 13 45 - www.aubonsaucisson.com

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CoopŽ rative des Sauniers de lÕ ”le de RŽ Route de la PrŽ e 17590 Ars-en-RŽ Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 40 27 www.sel-de-mer.com

❱ salt maRsHes Once again, it was the monks - although this time those from the powerful Abbaye de Saint-Michel-en-lÕ Herm - who were responsible for shaping the ë le de RŽ landscape. Until the Middle Ages, ë le de RŽ was made up of several smaller islands Ð RŽ , the largest, which corresponded to the south of the present-day island, together with the islets of Ars and Loix. Over time, alluvial deposits filled the channels between them, paving the way for the creation of the first salt marshes. In the early 11C, Guillaume le Grand gave the islets of Loix and Ars to the monks who tended the marshes on the mainland. However, salt harvesting only really got going in the 15C, reaching its peak in the 19C, when the marshes covered roughly

1,550 hectares (3,830 acres) - approximately 20% of the islandÕ s area - and produced 30,000 tonnes of salt. From 1850 onwards, the railways made it easier for competitors to transport their salt, with the resulting collapse of ë le de RŽ salt prices. In the light of these difficulties, the island’s salt producers joined forces in 1942 to form the CoopŽ rative des Sauniers de lÕ ë le de RŽ , based in Ars-en-RŽ . In the last ten years or so, there has been somewhat of a revival of activity, which now occupies 460 hectares (1,137 acres), produces 2500 tonnes of salt and has enabled a number of young producers to set up in business. The storage, packing and sale of coarse, fine and seasoned salt, as well as the now worldfamous “fleur de sel”, the very finest salt skimmed from the surface.  Photos © Incognito.fr

“White gold” in the salt marshes

Visiting the salt marshes. The salt marshes take your breath away with their unbelievable beauty. Because of the sky’s constantly changing reflections and light playing on the salt water, amateur and professional photographers alike spend hours trying to capture the slightest change. The marshes are also a haven for the local flora and fauna. Jean-Michel Arnoult organises canoe trips starting from Loix that last two hours and provide a completely unique way of seeing the marshes.

Information : Absolument Cano‘ - Jean-Michel Arnault : Tel : +33 (0)6 08 31 44 01 Ofﬁce de Tourisme - Place du Marché - 17111 Loix - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 07 91

Jams & Preserves

N°1 JULY 201 0

The ﬂavours of times past If you happen to be in the vicinity of Ars-en-Ré, it is most definitely worth dropping in on Françoise Héraudeau. With help from her family, she makes delicious jams and preserves - all free from preservatives and chemical substances - from fruit and vegetables grown in their orchards. She has a huge choice of flavours; among our favourites are her woodland strawberry, melon with “Pineau”, blackcurrant with seedless redcurrant, wild fig and a typically local jam made with hollyhock petals. She also stocks jellies, some with Ò PineauÓ , as well as her “Herbiers du Clocher” range of herbal teas, made with flowers and plants known to have medicinal and dietetic virtues. You may also like to try her preserves, such as tomato & marsh samphire or sweet fig & spices, which will enhance the flavour of cold meats or chicken and completely transform your meals. Last year, she added a range of cordials for mixing cocktails or simply for adding to water. Her lemony elderflower cordial even won a prize in the regional Ò Concours des SaveursÓ competition in 2009. Besides all this, she also sells her youngest sonÕ s creation - crystallised fruit jellies, making this a veritable paradise for any epicurean palate. Françoise will serve you with her legendary good humour and tell you about ë le de RŽ as she advises you about her products.

Les Conﬁtures du Clocher - 1 Chemin des Palissiats - 17590 Ars-en-Ré - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 41 35

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Biscuiterie de Ré

After a very fulfilling professional life, Daniel Vallégeas created La Biscuiterie de Ré a little more than ten years ago. His biscuits are typical of the island because they use the fleur de sel from the island and are very popular. Tradition and authenticity are keywords when speaking of his work. He took the RŽ sablŽ (shortbread biscuit) added algae, and transformed it into a marine sablŽ that works well as an aperitif or dessert. The range of croquants or crunchy biscuits, almond-hazelnut and chocolate, has been extended to include a sunny croquant with orange and lemon zest and coconut. His boutique also offers old-style, pure-almond macaroons, south-west France pastries whose origins date back to the Middle Ages, the traditional Be dÕ Am (melt-in-the-mouth goodness with bitter almonds and butter), the Galette Charentaise with angelica (winner of a bronze medal in 2007), the BroyŽ and the chefÕ s special oven batches with lemon cakes and a sort of gingerbread. Different types of packaging allow enable these delights to travel without losing any of their freshness. You can find these products directly at the La Biscuiterie de Ré boutique, in stores that sell regional products and in Marin bakeries, but also in supermarkets.

Zac des ClŽmor inants - La Noue - 17740 Sainte-Marie de RŽ - Tel + 33 (0)5 46 43 89 06

A reputation to match your love of food

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Fromagerie Lefort Goat heaven ! There is a cheese dairy at Loix on ë le de RŽ that is open to the public. Catherine and Richard Lefort own 200 goats, which have access to comfortable indoor stabling as well as outdoor yards where they can gambol and play because, in order for the cheese to be good, the goats need to be happy ! Much to the delight of most children, the dairy generally welcomes the public at milking times, when you will also be shown the different stages in the cheese-making process. They offer a range of cheeses at different stages of maturity, from fresh goatÕ s cheese, soft strained (cottage-type) cheese, some excellent hard and semi-hard cheeses and one or two made with “fleur de sel” or pepper, to an ash-coated log and Ò tommeÓ . Their products are sold at market in Bois-Plage, Ars and Les Portes en RŽ and served in good restaurants around the island.

Lefort Richard Fromagerie - Chemin du corps de garde - 17111 Loix - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 04 11

Anne-Laure and Arnaud Roy took over this business six years ago and have increased production (around 300,000 bottles a year). They have an enthusiastic and professional approach to brewing and selling their Ò natural beerÓ , which is free fromcolouring, preservatives and added sugar. The only ingredients they use are barley and wheat malts, hops, yeast they make themselves and water. In their first three years of business, they introduced Ò La Blanche de RŽ Ó (fruity), Ò La DŽ ferlanteÓ (cereal, fruit and plant aromas) and Ò LÕ ƒ cume de RŽ Ó (coffee and spice notes). They have since added Ò La Blanche AmbÕ RŽ Ó (honey and caramel notes), Ò La Blonde de RŽ Ó (caramel with a touch of citrus) and Ò La Blanche de RŽ BioÓ (wheat aromas), made with organic ingredients. This traditional craft brewery has a reputation for the quality of its products and Ò La Blanche de RŽ Ó has won prizes in several national beer and agricultural competitions. You can find these great beers throughout the region and even buy them directly from the brewery for drinking at your leisure while reminiscing about your holidays.

Natural beer from Île de Ré

Lefort Richard Fromagerie - Chemin du corps de garde - 17111 Loix - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 04 11

Look after your health. Drink moderately

Bières de Ré

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The Greatoutdoors N°1 JULY 201 0

❱ Head FoR tHe WateR !

There are numerous sailing schools and clubs to choose from where sailing is possible throughout the year. Schools tailor courses according to age and will take children from the age of five. To find out where to sail, contact the ComitŽ DŽpar temental de Voile. Tel : +33 (0)5 46 34 67 83. On ë le de RŽ, you can do some catamaran sailing from La Flotte and board the “Blue Note” or Ò Nosy BeÓ for a short trip, a half-day or full day excursion. Bookings and information at the tourist offices in La Flotte, La Couarde and Sainte-Marie or call Tel : + 33 (0)6 89 88 32 08. Very popular because physically possible for most people, surfing is possible at Le Petit Bec on RŽ, at Saint-Denis and Saint-Pierre on OlŽron, and at La Palmyre, Royan and La Tremblade, but you can also find good spots at other places on the coast. To find out where to surf, contact the Comité DŽpar temental de Surf. Tel : +33 (0)6 70 52 79 41. Kitesurfing, a truly bracing and exciting sport, requires technical skills and training, dispensed by a number of schools in the Ò dŽpar tementÓ . If you are a beginner, the instructor will not let you head off out to sea immediately. You will need to spend time close to the shore

wearing a helmet until you have acquired the necessary expertise to venture out further. To ﬁnd out where to kitesurf, contact the Ligue de Vol Libre en Poitou-Charentes. Tel : +33 (0)5 46 26 33 61. Sand yachting, while requiring a minimum of training (the main skill being an ability to stop), will enable you to quickly speed along the superb beaches of ë le de RŽ and OlŽr on. To ﬁnd out where to go sand yachting, contact the ComitŽ DŽpar temental de Char ˆ Voile. Tel : +33 (0)5 46 05 60 27.

Les Antilles de Jonzac (in the south of the ÒdŽpar tementÓ) . Tel : +33 (0)5 46 86 48 00. Palmilud in PŽr igny (on the outskirts of La Rochelle). Tel : +33 (0)5 46 45 70 20. 341758

If, by chance, the weather isnÕ t very good and the waves are a bit high, there are water parks where you can swim and children will be kept well-amused. AquarŽ in Saint-Martin de RŽ. Tel : +33 (0)5 46 66 10 95.

The Sèvre Niortaise and Canal de Marans in La Rochelle are great places for some inland boating, enabling you to explore the Marais Poitevin, which is still nicknamed Venise Verte, or green Venice. The same goes for the River Charente. Cruising down the Charente, you can enjoy the south of the Ò dŽ partementÓ and the Cognac region, starting from Jarnac or Cognac and heading towards Rochefort. For further information and bookings, call +33 (0)5 45 69 48 64 65. © Incognito.fr

Kayaking is practised in Charente-Maritime both on the rivers and at sea. Outings are organised with professional guides, who offer to take families to places which would otherwise be inaccessible to them. To ﬁnd out where to go kayaking, contact the ComitŽ DŽpar temental de Cano‘-ka yak. Tel +33 (0)5 46 90 56 14.

Charente-Maritime is a paradise for water sports ; with its rivers, canals, lakes and coast, most forms of water sport can be practised here.

The Greatoutdoors N°1 JULY 201 0

❱ pedal poWeR ële de RŽ is known for being a cyclistÕ s paradise and, in summer, the humble bicycle has even become the main form of transport around the island.

More and more cycles tracks An increasing number of cycle tracks have been marked out over the years, so that they now cover some hundred kilometres in all. You can get a map that shows them from any of the island’s tourist offices. There’s no need to worry if you havenÕ t brought your own bike with you on holiday; there are plenty of hire places with a good selection of bikes to choose from (touring, sport, tandems, coupled adult-child tandems and tricycles). Even if you have very young children, you can still take them along as you can hire an adult bike with a fitting to tow a small carriage behind it. To fin a hirer, just ask at your hotel, campsite reception or in a tourist office.

Five main cycling itineraries Five main itineraries are indicated on the cycling maps : • The country route (13.9km) from SaintMartin to La Couarde via Le Bois-Plage • The coastal route (17.5km) from SaintMartin to Loix via La Couarde. • The historic route (22km) from Sablanceaux to Sainte-Marie via Rivedoux, La Flotte and Saint-Martin • The marsh route (18km) from La Couarde to Les Portes via Ars and Saint-ClŽm ent.

Photos © Incognito.fr

• The forest route (10km) These five itineraries are basic circuits. Professional guide Josette Conesa, who has cycled the length and breadth of the island for a number of years, has tried and tested some more unusual circuits, which you can find described in Ò LÕ ”le de RŽ ˆ vŽl oÓ (1)

Safety ﬁrst

To reduce the risk of accidents in summer, when there are many cyclists on the road, please be sure to abide by the highway code, preferably cycle in single file and keep to the right-hand side, as cycle tracks are for use in both directions. When in villages, please refrain from going the wrong way up one-way streets.

If, however, you have a mishap when out cycling, call 112, 18 (“pompiers” - fire brigade), 17 (Ò gendarmerieÓ - police) or 15 (Ò SamuÓ mobile emergency medical service). When you set off, be sure to know the alphanumerical code of the cycle track you are using; this will allow help to reach you more quickly and, if you cycle at night, donÕ t forget to use your lights and wear reflective clothing.  (1) Ò LÕ ”le de RŽ ˆ vŽ lo, 5 balades inŽ ditesÓ , Geste Editions Ð sold in local newsagent shops.

The Greatoutdoors N°1 JULY 201 0

❱ eXploRinG tHe island on HoRseBaCK Les Écuries de l’Abbaye

This centre also offers rides to explore the island, as well as other activities such as classes and competitions for its riders. Les Grands Bois - 17630 La Flotte-en-Ré Tel : +33 (0)5 46 01 56 65

Équipassion

OwnersÕ stables where great care is taken of horses stabled there. Like the other centres, treks and rides are also organised. Chemin des Essarts - 17630 La Flotte-en-Ré Tel : +33 (0)6 83 36 79 83

La Petite Écurie du Marais © Incognito.fr

Another way of exploring ë le de RŽ is on horseback ; it is always a special treat to get in the saddle and ride along the beach at sunrise or sunset ! Le Haras des Evières in the south of the island has good-quality equipment and horses for beginners to more experienced riders as well as stabling facilities. Their classes, courses and rides are designed for all ages and levels of ability.

Haras des Evières

17580 Le Bois-Plage - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 10 48

Les Écuries du Moulin Moreau

The area surrounding these stables is a classified natural site, making it a wonderful place for riding between the vines and forests, as well as along the shores of the island. Numerous riding activities are offered or considered, depending on demand. Les Durancières Route de La Noue - 17630 La Flotte-en-Ré Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 32 34

With 47 hectares of land, this is the islandÕ s largest riding centre. It is also in a wonderful location right next to the Lilleau des Niges nature reserve. Owner Teddy Moreau organises rides by the hour or day for 8 to 10 riders. He likes to take people on new and unusual trails that are still relatively unexplored, either in the marshes or on the beach, either early in the morning or in the evening from 8pm to 10pm. Route de Saint-ClŽ ment - 17590 Ars en RŽ Tel : +33 (0)6 16 46 08 89

Le Centre Équestre de Ré

Route des Portes - 17590 Saint-ClŽ ment des Baleines - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 46 48

Les 4 Fers en l’Air

Joëlle Franrenet runs this smaller riding centre with a more personal touch where she organises rides for those with a genuine concern for the natural environment. Before any ride, time is spent making sure the rider gets to know the horse. 8 chemin du Peu Pinson 17740 Sainte-Marie Tel. + 33 (0)5 16 19 75 63

❱ lilleaU des niGes Occupying part of the Fier d’Ars, the Lilleau des Niges nature reserve is CharenteMaritimeÕ s foremost wild bird sanctuary. ële de RŽ stands at a migratory crossroads between Europe and North Africa; this is for a variety of reasons, including climate and the supply of food available to birds in the marshes. Many birds therefore stop on the island and a sanctuary was created for them on former marshes in 1980. There are two parts to the reserve Ð one of 121 hectares, to which access is forbidden at all times of year, the other of 115 hectares, to which access is strictly controlled. Constant maintenance of the sanctuary is necessary and provided by two associations Ð the Ligue pour la Protection des Oiseaux (LPO) and the Association de Sauvegarde des Sites des Portes-en-RŽ (ASSIP). 320 species of birds (almost half of European species) have been sited stopping over on the island. In winter, you can admire brent geese, Eurasian curlews and Eurasian oystercatchers; in the spring, it is easier to spot pied avocets, black-winged stilts and common shelducks, of the Passeriforme order with feet adapted for perching.

Welcoming visitors to this fragile environment is a permanent concern for the siteÕ s managers and the Maison du Fier was opened to heighten public awareness about the delicate balance of life for the birds in the reserve. This nature information centre has been set up in an old salt store, where there are exhibitions, video showings and interactive terminals on the flora and fauna. Nature workshops for children and trips with eco-guides are also organised Ð booking is obligatory and such trips are organised for groups of no more than 20 people. It is best to contact the Maison du Fier beforehand as these outings depend on the life cycles of the birds : from September to midApril, high tide is the time for admiring the birds. From the end of April to July, the birds are nesting in the marshes and it is best to go early in the morning or in the evening. 

a paradise

for birds at

portes-en-Ré

Photos © LPO Lilleau des Niges

Maison du Fier Le Vieux Port - 17880 Les Portes en RŽ Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 29 50 74

341761

ÂŠ AlphaStudio

341844

Ancient b

Photos © Incognito.fr

t buildings ❱ CHÂtelieRs aBBey Devastated by the Norman incursions from at the height of its power, when monks of which it recovered slowly, it wasnÕ t until the noble birth lived separately from the lay broarrival of the Cistercian monks who founthers, the poor peasant monks ! As it stands ded the abbey of Notrenow, this is a magnificent Dame-des-Châteliers and unbelievably roman(better known these days tic spot. The Maison du For guided tours, as the Abbaye des ChâtePlatin in La Flotte contains contact the Maison du Platin liers) in 1152 that ële de displays of objects found RŽ began to develop its during excavations at the 4 cours FŽ lix Faure in La Flotte principal commercial acabbey.  Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 61 39 tivities, namely salt and wine. Under the leadership of Isaac de lÕƒtoile, who was forced to leave his monastery because of Henri II (Henry Plantagenet) and came to settle at Le Breuil du Chastelier, the Cistercian monks, who placed great importance on manual labour, contributed greatly to the islandÕ s economic development with vine growing, cereal and vegetable farming, fishing, hunting, soil improvement and the harnessing of water resources whilst at the same time re-shaping the landscape. Originally built in Romanesque style in the 12C and restored in the Gothic style in the 15C after being damaged during the English invasions, the buildings were again destroyed during the Wars of Religion and the monks abandoned the abbey in 1575. Although the buildings are damaged, it is still possible to imagine what the abbey was like

N°1 JULY 201 0

❱ tHe CHURCH in saint-maRtin de Ré

Built in the 11C or 12C, not much remains of the original Romanesque building because Saint-Martin-de-RŽ Õ s church has suffered greatly from all manner of afflictions, including hostilities between the French and English, Catholics and Protestants, the Anglo-Dutch bombardments and the French Revolution. It was rebuilt a number of times, only to see its tower collapse in 1774. A decision was then made to completely change the orientation of the choir. Rebuilt in the 18C and 19C, this church thus bears many scars from the past. The oldest parts date back to the 15C and its square tower, characteristic of the fortified churches of

the Aunis and Saintonge provinces, is reminiscent of English churches. The interior is interesting with an altar of Byzantine inspiration and a monument to a group of nonjuring priests who were deported between 1798 and 1801. It is possible, and even recommended, to climb the tower (117 steps) because the view from the top is absolutely superb. As you go up, you can admire the three bells that ring out over Saint-Martin : Marie-Thérèse which rings in D, Charles Catherine which rings in E and Marie Pierre Michel Samuel which rings in F !  Church of Saint-Martin de RŽ open all year for unguided visits.

Photos © Incognito.fr

❱ a toWn FoRtiFied By VaUBan From the sky, Saint-Martin looks like a star, which is a characteristic sign of VaubanÕ s fortifications. But, who was this man Vauban ? SŽ bastien Le Prestre, the marquess of Vauban (1633-1707) was a remarkable man of many talents who was an engineer, military architect, town planner, hydraulic engineer and essayist. Vauban protected France with a series of citadels which, apart from Lille, resisted assault throughout Louis XIVÕ s reign. With subsequent improvements in the principles and methods of artillery fire, the citadels became obsolete; their role had consisted of mobilising large numbers of the adversaryÕ s forces but they were not unassailable. Twelve of Vauban’s fortified buildings have been listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites, including Saint-Martin-de-RŽ in 2008. Saint-Martin’s first fortress was built in 1627. In 1674, Vauban chose the site of Saint-Martin to build his citadel because of its central location on the island and because there was already a fortress there. in 1681, he re-used the site to build a citadel with wide town

walls to protect the inhabitants and their livestock in the event of an enemy invasion and to protect the harbour. Work continued until 1684.

ppinG It is now considered to be the finest example of anisland stronghold. 

For guided tours of the fortiﬁcations, contact : Ofﬁce de Tourisme de Saint-Martin, 2 quai Nicolas Baudin, 17410 Saint-Martin de RŽ Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 20 06

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❱ le pHaRe des Baleines a lighthouse and beacon museum was set up in the former lighthouse keepersÕ school building at the foot of the old tower. 

Le Phare des Baleines at the tip of the island on the road from Saint-ClŽ ment des Baleines to Les Portes Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 18 23

Photos © Incognito.fr

With Cordouan and Chassiron (ële dÕOlŽron), the Phare des Baleines (lighthouse of the whales), standing at the western tip of ële de RŽ, is one of the three oldest lighthouses in France. Dating from 1682, it was built at a time when Colbert was developing the port of Rochefort and working on the defence of the kingÕ s navy in the entire area stretching as far as Brittany. The tip of the island was already known as the Pointe des Baleines in the 17C because of the number of cetaceans found stranded there. The present lighthouse, which replaced the original one built in 1682 and which can still be seen behind, dates from 1849. 57 metres in height, it has a beautiful, 257-step spiral staircase made of blue granite from Kersanton. It was equipped with electricity in 1882 and a radio beacon in 1928. Now semi-automatic, it flashes four times every 15 seconds and can be seen up to 27 nautical miles away. From the top of its platform, the view of the VendŽe coastline, the islands of Aix and Oléron and Fort-Boyard is absolutely stunning when the weather is good. It canÕ t be visited at night but, if youÕ re in the area, stop a while under the beams of light that silently sweep the sky and youÕll experience an impression of eternity. In 2007,

❱ CUltURal and aRtistiC liFe Musee Ernest Cognacq Ernest-Cognacq and Hôtel de Clerjotte

The H™ tel de Clerjotte is in fact home to the Ernest Cognacq museum, H™ tel de Clerjotte is a 16C stately home inspired by the Renaissance style. Recently, a new wing was added and the gardens rehabilitated. The building, was listed as an historic monument in 1929 and is well worth a visit, all the more so at the moment because of an exhibition that is remarkable as much for the quality of the objects on display as for the scenography, the subject of which is the Western image of non-European societies from 1800 to 1914 as seen through collections purchased by the museum in the 19C.

13 avenue Victor Bouthillier - 17410 Saint-Martin-de-RŽ - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 21 22

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Écomusée du Marais Salant The salt marsh ecomuseum

In an outstanding location to the north of ë le de RŽ at Loix is an ecomuseum devoted to the salt marshes that is open to the public all year. After visiting the exhibition depicting the history of the salt marshes and the methods of producing salt, a guide uses a model to explain the hydraulic process at work and takes visitors out into the marshes where they can see salt harvesting and preparatory work in the marshes as well as admirng the flora. Fleur de sel (surface-skimmed premium-quality sea salt), marsh samphire (salicornia) and books on salt production and harvesting are on sale in the museum. © AlphaStudio

17111 Loix - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 06 77 - www.marais-salant.com

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This folk museum specialises in the cultural, biological and environmental heritage of ë le de RŽ Õ s foreshore. There is a permanent exhibition on fish bypasses, fishing on foot and the daily life of the “magayant”, the peasant-fishermen of Île de Ré.

La Maison du Magayant

63 Cours des Jarri•r es - 17410 Sainte-Marie de RŽ - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 37 47 50

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La Maison du Platin

This place is devoted to island and maritime life on RŽ in the 19C and 20C and to the folk and maritime traditions of La Flotte and the villages in and around the straits of Île de Ré.

4, cours FŽlix F aure - 17630 La Flotte - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 61 39

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Cultural and artistic life N°1 JULY 201 0

❱ atelieR QUillet A treasure trove of old books Situated in the craft village of Loix, Atelier Quillet decided to open to the public from the 2010 Easter holidays in order to promote its expertise in restoring and hand-binding old books and documents. Such highly specialised skills are becoming increasingly rare and, of the 2,000 bookbinders in activity in 1987, there are now fewer than 450. Only three of these workshops, including Atelier Quillet, which was designated a Ô living heritage companyÕ (Ò Entreprise du Patrimoine VivantÓ ) in 2007, are of national importance. Atelier Quillet has over twenty years’ experience in this domain and employs thirty or so specialists in binding, restoration and gilding. Guided tours are available by prior arrangement on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday at 2pm and 3.15pm. These times correspond to the most interesting periods of activity from the point of view of novices to the activity. The cost is Û3 per person, or Û2 per person as part of a group of at least 15 people. The company is simultaneously launching a premium-quality souvenir product which will be entirely made by hand in the workshop. Perfect for writing notes and memos, as a travel log or for sketches, it will be available in different sizes, bound in premium-quality cloth or leather and personalised using a bookbinderÕ s brass.

Prices : from Û 5 to Û 15, depending on the size and type of binding. The bookshop, which has been completely reorganised and modernised, displays and sells old books and documents as well as some very beautiful types of paper, including some rare Japanese paper from a special source. 

Village Artisanal 7 Chemin du Corps de Garde, 17111 Loix-en-RŽ Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 04 25

Galerie François Giraudeau

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Arthur PLAUD

J-Y MADEC

KORONIN

François Giraudeau has two galleries in the village of Les Portes where he exhibits good-quality works by painters, sculptors, photographers and designers. Among others, you can find paintings by Nadine Bourgne, Omer Amblas, Clotilde Ancarani, Koronin, Jean-Yves Madec and Raoul Gaillard and sculptures by Laurence Tremolet, Eric Chabiron, Katherine Hoffmann, Hélène Jousse, Michel Mazet, Robert Keramsi, Martine Kerbaol, Margit Mondhard, Val and Lo• c HervŽ.

Izabeau JOUSSE

1 rue Jean Monnet 17880 - Les Portes en RŽ - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 19 99 1 rue du Printemps 17880 - Les Portes en RŽ- Tel : +33 (0)6 08 46 68 97

Nadine BOURGNE

The new art gallery belonging to Fran•ois Giraudeau, the former one is on the place de la LibertŽ and canÕ t be missed.

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Galerie Royale Rachel and Claude Metz own this gallery in Rochefort where they exhibit their favourite works. Having studied modern art under AimŽ Maeght himself, ClaudeÕ s love of contemporary art led him to abandon a legal career in order to open his gallery in Rochefort. He regularly organises exhibitions of work by artists he particularly likes, including Taleb, Dao, Slimane and Tiffoche as well as promising newcomers he encounters, as is constantly looking for new talent. From 25 June to 30 July, you can admire an exhibition called Ò DŽ lices dÕ InitiŽ sÓ by Eric Taleb and Bernard Frigière, a sculptor inspired by the sea. From 30 July to 2 September, the big summer exhibition is Ò Les EstivalesÓ , which will be showing work by painters Myriam Sardis, ƒ dith Verdickt, Catherine Prot, Patrice Benassy and Patrick Sanitas and the ceramist Jer™ me Clochard.

3 rue Audebert - (at the Corderie Royale) - 17300 Rochefort - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 99 07 71

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Galerie Glineur

Martine and Patrick Glineur have turned this old town house in the historic centre of Saint-Martin into a gallery that is open all year for exhibitions by a dozen or so permanent artists to whom they remain loyal, including Dominique Pouchain, Michel Wolhlfahrt, Johanna Hair, Michel Aucler, Dominique Barreau, Martine Littot, Anne BrŽ rot, ƒt ienne, Corti, El PŽon, Yannick Le Petitcorps, Testa and Jean-Louis Foulquier. For the gallery owners, the relationships they build and maintain with their artists are of great importance; to them, itÕ s more a question of an initial instant liking that develops into a friendship and the couple only exhibits works they would like to have in their own home. The gallery organises special events each year with temporary exhibitions of its permanent artistsÕ latest creations or work by up-and-coming artists. The next two exhibitions will feature work by StŽphane Testa, who specialises in collage and painting with acrylics and accompanies his work with messages addressed against the consumer society, and Anne Brérot, who will be exhibiting twenty-five new acrylic paintings on wood on the theme of Ò Le R•v eur et ses SemblablesÓ (the dreamer and his fellow creatures). StŽphane Testa Ð ÒT oo Much ! Ó f rom 11 to 20 July 2010 Anne BrŽr ot Ð ÒLe R•v eur et ses SemblablesÓ from 7 to 17 August 2010 Place de lÕEglis e - 17410 Saint-Martin de RŽ - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 10 90

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Galerie Promen’Arts PromenÕ Arts consists of two galleries in Saint-Martin-de-RŽ and another in La Couarde with exhibits of work by an eclectic range of painters working with oils, acrylics, watercolours and various other mediums, as well as sculptures made from all manner of materials. In France, PromenArts promotes the work of artists from Australia, the South Sea islands and Asia whilst, in Australia and the South Sea islands, the gallery promotes French artists. Notable among them are Peter Francis Lawrence, Annett Fradin, Jean-Michel Bliard, Fifax, Laurent Maero, Emmelene Landon, Gauthier, Olivier Le Nan, Mario Sabaty, Pierre-Augustin Marboeuf and Lyndal Campbell. Regular exhibitions are organised at all three of RŽÕ s galleries.

❱ 58 Grande Rue - 17670 La Couarde-sur-Mer - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 24 4? ❱

Quai L. Razilly - ëlot de St-Martin - 13 quai G. ClŽ menceau - 17410 St-Martin - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 24 4?

Life in Charente-Maritime â?ą la RoCHelle The city of La Rochelle did not really flourish until the 12th century, thanks mainly to the fact that Chatelaillon fell to the dukes of Aquitaine in 1131. It obtained its charter as a commune, which freed it from all forms of feudal protection. At about the same time, with the vineyards being developed by the Cistercian and Cluny monks, the people of La Rochelle became sailors in order to deliver their products to the North of Europe. They were thus exposed to the ideas of the Reformation. Huguenots progressively began to settle there and developed maritime trade. Louis XIV did not appreciate the growing power of La Rochelle and sent a governor to keep law and order. The citizens were offended by this gesture and this led to the first siege of La Rochelle in 1572, which was less murderous than the next siege in 1628, which lasted more than a year and saw some 20,000 die of hunger. It took La Rochelle some time to recover. A considerable share of its population preferred to emigrate rather than convert to Catholicism. Slowly the city began to rise from its ruins, Vauban fortified it and it prospered from the triangular trade of slaves and the fur trade with Canada. It experienced a veritable boom all through the 18th century, with the construction of private residences that we can still admire in the city centre. However, the

ban on slave trading caused it to decline and the city did not prosper again until the early 20th century, with the construction of a port capable of receiving trawlers with a large capacity or tonnage. It developed its fishing activities and created the largest marina in Europe at Les Minimes. In the last thirty years the city has hosted major events like Le Grand Pavois boat show in September and the Francofolies in July, which have made the city a major regional attraction. There is no shortage of cultural attractions, with many museums and lots of cultural events in season. Go for a stroll through the city centre and soak up the architecture and spirit of the city, then pass under the great clock to the port where many restaurants await you. Before you do anything else, be sure to visit the Office de Tourisme where you can learn about the different types of passes for public transport and which entitle you to preferential rates in the museums. ď Ą

OfďŹ ce de Tourisme de la Rochelle 2 quai Georges Simenon 17000 La Rochelle Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 31 71 71

Life in Charente -Maritime N°1 JULY 201 0

❱ tHe QUaRtieRs In La Rochelle there are quartiers with different atmospheres where you have to walk with your eyes looking upward to admire the architecture and soak up the cityÕ s past. This is the case for the districts described below.

The old market quartier La RochelleÕ s current covered market was built in 1836 after the municipality had spent two centuries wondering where to locate it. There is a market in the halle every day and twice a week, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, traders set up stands in the neighbouring streets. This is one of the oldest parts of La Rochelle and if you examine the houses around the halle, you will realize that they date back to the Middle Ages with their half-timbering and slates. The small streets leading away from the market place have come to life in the last decade with excellent little restaurants and fashionable clothes or dŽ cor boutiques. You will find boutiques scattered all along the rue des Merciers or the rue Saint-Yon leading to the Place de lÕ H™ tel de Ville (an absolute must). Here you are in La RochelleÕ golden triangle. If you take the rue du Temple, a pedestrian street where the Knights Templars settled in rich residences in the 12th century, it will lead you to the Porte de la Grosse-Horloge where you will find typical La Rochelle arcades that protected the good bourgeoisie of the 18th century from the rain !

The old port Across from you, the three towers of La Rochelle : the Saint Nicolas tower, the Lanterne tower and the Tour de la Cha”ne guard the entrance to the port. The Tour de la Cha”ne, whose name derives from the chain that was pulled to prevent boats from entering the port, has a permanent La Rochelle-Quebec exhibition in honour of Samuel Champlain, born in Brouage, who founded the city of Quebec in 1608. If you follow the Cour des Dames you will find restaurants side by side offering seafood, mussels and French fries, and fish at a very fair price. At the end of the Cour des Dames you will find the rue Saint-Jean du Perrot, which is entirely devoted to restaurants, some of them very good, with nonetheless a North African grocery that stays open until midnight. Opposite you, on the other side of the harbour, which you can reach by boat with the electric passeur that takes you across the channel for the modest sum of Û 0.60 (leaving from the quay at the end of the Cour des Dames and which accepts bicycles), is the Ville-en-bois, the Gabut, the old fishing district that was renovated in 1989 and whose wooden houses are reminis-

cent of San Francisco’s piers. The many terraces of the cafŽ s and little restaurants installed outdoors in the shade of the trees afford a fine view of the harbour.

seat in the sun at BrunoÕ s and JulieÕ s (La Solette CafŽ ) for a coffee (or more Ð itÕ s a great place for a friendly lunch) and learn all you want to know about the quartier.

Le quartier Saint-Nicolas

Les Minimes Marina

This old fishing district is much appreciated by the people of La Rochelle, particularly the young. The nightlife here is lively, with many bars, including one Irish pub, The General

At the extreme tip of La Rochelle, after the universities and the LycŽ e Hotelier, is the largest marina in Europe : 3,200 berths at the moment and another 1000 in 2011. To get there, take the sea

HumbertÕ s and the Cave de la Guignette, much appreciated by young people as a Ç beforeÈ bar ! The Bohemian life can be found in these few streets with their architecture that is very different from old La Rochelle, particularly the absence of arcades. Several galleries exhibit artists, secondhand booksellers display old books and the fashionable boutiques have their share of surprises in store. At 31 rue Saint Nicolas you will find Terre et Vendanges, run by a discerning wine merchant who knows how to find excellent little estate wines at an interesting price. When you reach the Place de la Solette, take a

bus from the vieux port (departure next to the electric passeur). ItÕ s about a twenty-minute ride.

Parks La Rochelle has many green spaces, the largest being the Parc Charruyer, now in the centre of the city, where the old ramparts used to stand. It is one of the places to visit in season. People go there for their morning run, to cycle on the cycle paths, for picnics with the kids or just for a stroll and a breath of fresh air. It is both literally and metaphorically, the lung of La Rochelle. 

Offbeat night walks round La Rochelle Les Rondes de nuit (the night watches) are an interesting way to discover the old city of La Rochelle. Every Thursday from June 17 to September 16, set out at nightfall in the footsteps of a night watchman who will show you a selection of offbeat places not usually open to the public as he recounts the history of the city. The route is punctuated with historical characters dressed in period costumes. Departure at 8 : 30 p.m. Ð 9 : 00 p.m. or 9 : 30 p.m. except Thursday July 15 on the occasion of the Francofolies festival. There are a limited number of places so it is essential to reserve in advance.

Ofﬁce de Tourisme - 2 quai Georges Simenon - 17000 La Rochelle Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 41 14 68 - www.larochelle-tourisme.com

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The Ocean in the heart of the city

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The La Rochelle aquarium is located near the vieux port. A whopping 8,045m2, it exhibits more than 10,000 animals from 500 different species in over 3,000m3 of water, of which 1,500m3 are for the shark basin. More than 900,000 visitors each year. The aquarium belongs to the Coutant group and is the largest in France and one of the largest private aquariums in Europe. It consists of different spaces, each with its own atmosphere : Atlantic, Mediterrean, Indo-Pacific, Caribbean, lagoon and tropical. The layout of the entrance reminds us of Jules VerneÕ s Captain NemoÕ s famous submarine and the exit necessarily takes us through the tall tropical hothouse. The restaurant at the top of the aquarium building has a spectacular view of La Rochelle harbour and also overlooks the tropical hothouse. The ground floor bookshop has a range of interesting videos organized around everyday life in the aquarium, how the animals are fed and cared for, and the general maintenance of the aquarium. Aquarium - Bassin des Grands Yachts - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 34 00 00

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Musée Maritime The Maritime Museum consists of three boats moored at the quay : the France 1, a meteorological frigate; LÕ Angoumois, a stern trawler, and the Saint Gilles, a tug. The France 1 was transformed into a museum when it came to the end of its career. The visit takes you from the engine room to the bridge while many meteorologists and scientists continue to work. In season you can admire the view while eating or drinking on the deck. LÕ Angoumois introduces you to life on board this trawler that sailed on 12-day trips where the work of the sailors was dictated by the trawl.

Quai SŽnac de Meilhan - Bassin des Chalutiers - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 28 03 00

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Museum d’Histoire Naturelle The museum reopened in October 2007 after a series of renovations lasting ten years. In an exhibition area of 2300m2 you will discover zoology, botany, geology, ethnography and archaeology with the help of 10,000 precious testaments to biodiversity and cultural diversity. In the zoology gallery you can see the famous giraffe Zarafa, a gift from the Egyptian Pasha Mehmet Ali to King Charles X in 1826 and the first giraffe to tread on French soil. A new interior design retains all the charm and beauty of the 300-year-old edifice. After visiting the museum buildings, take a stroll through the Jardin des Plantes, or botanical gardens, amidst vegetal species from the four corners of the world.

28 rue Albert 1er - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 41 18 25

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A magical world for young and old Side by side in the Ville-en-bois, two very successful museums to charm young and old a like : the ﬁrst is devoted to automatons and the second to scale models of trains, trucks and cars.

Musée des Automates More than 300 automatons with impeccable costumes, the oldest, like Çles clowns mains ˆ mainsÈ or Çl Õ acrobate au chapeauÈ dating back to 1890, others like the Çjoueur de vielleÈ to 1900, 1905 for Çl a coquetteÈ, and, old but with no precise date : Çl e fumeur de NarguilŽÈ. Historical characters and advertising figures, animated shop windows destined to attract the public or created for big stores at Christmas, they are all different, yet we never tire of watching them go through their routines. Another great attraction in this museum is the reconstitution of a Montmartre quartier at the beginning of the 20th century, through which we wander as we watch the overhead metro pass. A total success !

Musée des Modèles réduits

Is every bit as fascinating as its neighbour but with an added attraction for children : a little train that conveys them round the museum building at regular intervals. Here we find models of legendary cars like the Rolls Royce Torpedo Phantom II built for the Rajkot Maharajah in 1934. All the scale models, whether cars, trucks, trains or boats, are faithful reproductions of the originals. Complete train circuits are installed and run in the midst of the visitors. Several times each day a son et lumière show recounts the history of sailing with naval battles. 12 and 14 rue de la DŽs irŽe - 17000 La Rochelle -Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 41 68 08

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A DV E R T I S E M E N T

Real Estate news Franck and Sylvie Millet extend a warm and friendly welcome that is refreshingly relaxed and friendly.

7 rue Villeneuve - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 51 01 57 - www.grandlarge-immo.com

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We take the time to get to know you, especially to understand you, an essential stage in developing a detailed picture of the place that corresponds exactly to your wishes. Homing in on your personal requirements, our aim is to offer you the best match for your needs. This is why we maintain close contact all through your project. Grand Large Immobilier offers all the services you could want. We like to adopt a traditional approach, but always with a view to satisfying our customers. We offer a range of services designed to cater to your every need. To this end we have established a network of partners who really know how to conduct a made-to-measure study while offering valuable advice and experience on different aspects like, housework, decoration and works supervision, as well as local studies (proximity of shops, schools and other facilities), administrative formalities and more. We have developed a special service for our faraway friends. After a very detailed study of your requirements, we select between three and five properties for you to visit when you next visit us. We organize your whole stay : we meet you at the airport or station, reserve your accommodation and meals, and anything else you may require. This leaves you free to discover the region and its charms, and familiarize yourself with your future environment. The staff includes two perfectly bilingual Britons who live in the region and provide a warm welcome for clients from abroad. A few clicks on our Internet site will enable you to discover our approach, who we are and what makes us different. Each year our agency is transformed into an art gallery for short exhibitions of new artists, exhibitions that continue throughout the year and help to create a feeling for our local art.

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La Rochelle’s art and history museums Musée Nouveau du Nouveau Monde Situated in a magnificent 18th century mansion, this museumÕ s collections illustrate Franco-American relations from the 16th century onward. As an important port, La Rochelle played a major role in trade and emigration to the New World. The collections evoke Canada, Louisiana, the West Indies and Guyana and many testimonies shed light on slavery and the triangular trade.

10 rue Fleuriau - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 41 46 50

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Musée d’Orbigny-Bernon This museum focuses on the main events in local history, particularly the famous sieges (1573, 1627-1628), and the Second World War. A superb collection of earthenware and porcelain, one of the finest in France, and an exhibition of Far Eastern art complete the interest of this museum.

63 2 rue Saint-C™me - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 41 18 83

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Musée des Beaux-Arts Located on the second floor of the Hotel de Crussol d’Uzès, a former archbishopÕ s palace, the museum presents a panorama of European painting from the 15th to the mid 20th century. The 19th century is represented with canvases by Camille Corot, Gustave DorŽ and artists from the region, like Eugène Fromentin and William Bouguereau. The 20th century is illustrated with works by Marquet, Denis Chaissac and Magnelli.

28 rue Gargoulleau - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 41 64 65

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Musées d’Art et d’Histoire de La Rochelle. Copyright : Julien Chauvet 0

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❱ RoCHeFoRt In about 1660 Louis XIV noticed that the French navy was falling into disrepair and promptly ordered Colbert to find a location on the Atlantic coast capable of accommodating an arsenal (or shipyard). The village of Rochefort was selected in 1665 and a military arsenal was installed there for the western fleet. The arsenal included warehouses and workshops and the Corderie Royale Ð or Royal Rope Factory – naturally came to be built there. The town then developed rapidly under the influence of Colbert and Michel BŽ gon (cf. the Begonia Conservatory), who enhanced the town, improved the living conditions and gave it the face and architecture we know today. The arsenal closed in 1926, causing the decline of Rochefort. But the town soon found a new vocation and was recognized as a Ç City of Art and HistoryÈ in 1993. The natural and cultural heritage of the naval arsenal have caused it to apply to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. La Corderie Royale – or Royal Rope Factory is one of the most important buildings in the arsenal (or shipyard). The construction was difficult because of soggy ground subject to flooding.

Before even commencing construction the architect, François Blondel, had a sort of floating raft constructed, a plateau consisting of oak beams that were sunk through the water table. The 374-m-long building was used to manufacture ropes and rigging for the fleet. The external architecture has all the elegance of the period. The inside, however, has the simplicity of a functional construction that is long enough to enable the manufacture of a cable (about 200 m) in one unbroken length! The closure of the arsenal in 1926 led to the progressive abandonment of the rope factory which, to further compound its dereliction, was burned in 1944 by the occupying forces as they left the town. Admiral Dupont organized the cleaning of the corderie in 1964 and it was declared a national historic monument in 1967. Today the building houses different bodies like the Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Saintonge. It has exhibition areas explaining how ropes are made and a space for temporary exhibitions. 

La Corderie Royale rue Jean-Baptiste Audebert, 17300 Rochefort Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 87 01 90

L’Hermione

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In 1997 a group of passionate enthusiasts set about reconstructing the frigate LÕ Hermione, on which La Fayette set sail on March 21, 1780, to help the American insurrectionists during the American war of independence. They reconstructed the boat in the old maritime arsenal exactly the same as the original and in full view of the public because most of their funds came from visits to the site and articles sold in the shop. This reconstruction lent new life to disappearing skills and trades and certain workshops and stands are open to visitors to the site. The ultimate goal is to sail across the Atlantic in the wake of La Fayette.

Chantier de lÕ Hermione ˆ la Corderie Royale

❱ Map of the isle of RŽ and OlŽ ron by Jacques-Nicolas Bellin 1757 - photo du CIM de Rochefort

La Mer à l’encre : three centuries of maritime maps The Centre International de la Mer at La Corderie Royale at Rochefort is devoting its latest exhibition to marine maps from the 16th to the 18th century. We know that these maps were used by the great and powerful but very little by sailors, who sailed without the help of maps. The whole exhibition presents a confrontation between cartographic symbolisation on the one hand and the actual practice of sailing and navigating on the other. The difference between the two could be considerable and the art of navigating was largely a matter of flair. The exhibition breaks down into three main parts : a presentation of the extraordinary cartographic production of Normandy ports (Dieppe, Honfleur, Rouen), a central part devoted to the great cartographic work Le Neptune François (1693 – 29 maps of coastlines from Norway to Gibraltar), the result of the state enterprise instigated by Colbert. Lastly, the projection of a video dramatization places visitors on the deck of a ship in the midst of a dispute between an 18th century cartographer and an anxious captain who is confronted with very real obstacles. La mer ˆ lÕ encre : the exhibition runs until December 31, 2011

La Corderie Royale - rue Jean-Baptiste Audebert - 17300 Rochefort - Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 87 01 91

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pierre

loti’s

Pierre Loti was born Louis Marie Julien Viaud at Rochefort on January 14, 1850, and died on June 10, 1923, at Hendaye and was buried on the Ile dÕOlŽron. He is one of the most captivating of French writers. For a long time all the public knew of Loti was his literary output and his career as a naval officer. But Loti had a complex personality and many find it difficult to reconcile the brilliant naval officer, the diplomat, the writer, the artist (photographer and painter), the acrobat limbering up in circuses, the man from a middle class family who plumbed the depths of the seediest ports of international capitals. A fretful man, no doubt, but a man with an open and modern mind, and a talented artist. As a naval officer, he travelled widely and drew inspiration from his seafaring voyages when writing his novels, but all his life he was attracted by the Orient, Turkey in particular. This is why he transformed his childhood house in Rochefort into a sort of theatre with

a Renaissance dŽco r on the ground floor, Gothic on the first and Oriental on the upper floors. At one stage he even transformed a servant into a muezzin announcing the five prayers of the day. He organized unforgettable parties that left the neighbourhood stunned. Today we cannot visit the full house. Certain rooms have gone or are too fragile to admit the public, but what remains to be seen behind the classic architecture of the walls of the Rochefort residence is fascinating. New this year, Visites Passion in the form of nocturnal explorations of his house. These visits are limited to 10 people, begin in July and August at 8 : 30 p.m. and at 8 : 00 p.m. in September. Reserve in advance with the Rochefort Office de Tourisme. 

house

Maison de Pierre Loti 141 rue Pierre Loti - 17300 Rochefort Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 99 16 88

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❱ ConseRVatoiRe dU BeGonia An extraordinary place Michel Begon arrived in Rochefort in 1688 in his capacity as the royal naval intendent. Since the town owes its historic centre to him, it will be marking the three hundred years since his death from April to June. The responsibilities of an intendent were considerable when Begon was in office because the nation was at war and the arsenal was therefore of immense importance. From 1694, his responsibilities were widened to include the entire Aunis and Saintonge provinces, although that did not prevent him Ð a man of considerable culture Ð from continuing to devote time to his correspondence and interests, which included plants. At the time of his posting in Marseilles, he had sent a priest and a botanist - Father Plumier and Doctor Surian Ð to the West Indies to collect plants. In honour of his patron, Plumier gave the name of Begonia to one of the plants he brought back. The collection was purchased from Vincent Millerioux, a horticulturist in the Paris area (Val dÕ Oise) and taken to Rochefort in the form of cuttings about thirty centimetres high. The collection has since grown in size because of donations and gifts. Now based

in Rochefort, the Conservatoire du BŽgo nia is one of the largest collections in the world. There are over 2,000 species of begonia from every corner of the planet and from surprisingly diverse climates and altitudes. One particular characteristic of the begonia is that it reproduces by two types of male and female flowers, growing on the same stem. Begonias are, therefore, bisexual. The greenhouse covers more than 1,000 square metres and contains over 1,500 species and hybrids of an incredible diversity. These are not the humble begonias of our own gardens ; some plants growing here reach a height of five metres while others are minuscule and, since none of them like to have their roots in water, they are suspended, giving the entire place an almost tropical feel. 

Le Conservatoire du BŽ gonia La PrŽ e Horticole 1 rue Charles Plumier 17300 Rochefort Tel : +33 (0)5 46 99 08 26

❱ l’HÔtel HÈBRe de saint-Clément Entirely renovated and open to the public since December 2006, the Hôtel Hèbre de Saint-ClŽment houses the MusŽe dÕ Art et dÕHis toire and the Centre dÕ interprŽta tion de lÕar chitecture et du patrimoine (Centre for Interpreting Architecture and Heritage). Modern museographic techniques present the museumÕ s collections in the course of a visit that combines the history of the city, beaux arts collections and ethnographic objects. The archaeological section on the ground floor is not very interesting but the upper floors have a wealth of material for history enthusiasts. Amongst other things, you will discover an amazing relief-map of the city and the arsenal in 1830 by Pierre-Marie Touboulic, a gallery of 19th century paintings and, on the third floor, extra-European collections that evoke the maritime and colonial history of the city. The H™tel also houses temporary exhibitions and from June 18 to September 20, 2010, the MŽtis sages exhibition presents woven, embroidered and interlacing works by 64 artists that blend heritage traditions and innovation where technical know-how and contemporary creation meet. Bearing in mind that Rochefort is known and reputed for its gold thread embroidery. 

H™ tel H• bre de Saint-ClŽ ment 63 avenue Charles de Gaulle 17300 Rochefort Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 82 91 60

One of the most famous zoos in Europe About 15 km from Royan is a place where a passion for animals has been transformed into a sort of NoahÕ s Ark. You can discover up 1600 animals in the 18 hectares of the most famous zoo in France. Claude Caillé’s dream became a reality in 1966. Initially a family business where all aspects had to be managed Ð from animal husbandry to accounting. By dint of hard work, rigor and passion, the Zoo de la Palmyre became a reference that receives more than 800,000 visitors each year. You can walk for four hours non-stop in this vast park. However, we recommend that you punctuate your stroll with breaks to watch the shows that run from Easter to Halloween, with birds and sea lions that will amaze you with their physical capacities. In addition to the entertainment that a zoo provides by enabling us to have a pleasant contact with the animals, it is also a place to study animal behaviour. Moreover, with the help of scientists and international breeding programmes, zoos manage animal populations that may later be reintroduced in a natural setting. Le Zoo de la Palmyre - 6 avenue de Royan - 17570 La Palmyre - Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 22 46 06

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Just a ten-minute walk from the city centre, Les jardins du monde is an amazing place that is both an amusement park with a pedal go-kart circuit, trips on electric boats and the largest permanent hothouse exhibition of orchids in Europe, a 700m2 tropical hothouse with 400 different varieties of orchid, some of them extremely rare, and 3000 flowers throughout the year because they are renewed regularly. Another hothouse with butterflies roaming freely allows visitors to appreciate a large number of species, including the Attacus Atlas with patterns in the shape of snake heads at its wingtips. Also worth noting is the one of the largest collections of bonsai plants in Europe. In addition, the park offers visitors a tour of gardens from all over the world : a Japanese garden, an English garden and a Mediterranean garden. And children always love the house with the dwarf goats and the bamboo labyrinth.

Les jardins du Monde - 5 avenue des Fleurs de la paix - 17200 Royan Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 38 00 99 -www.jardins-du-monde.com

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A world of enchantment

❱ Royan During the Belle ƒpoque, the mild climate, long hours of sunshine and the proximity of beaches made Royan a very fashionable seaside resort, a chic and trendy place that left its mark on the cityÕ s architecture. Hotels with Victorian facades were built, as well as chalets and villas in imitation of Renaissance chateaux. Some of them still remain, places like the villas on the Boulevard Frédéric Garnier, in spite of the bombing in January 1945 when the city centre was almost completely destroyed. Royan, like Dunkerque, Toulon, Le Havre, Saint-DiŽ and Calais, all of which were 80% destroyed, was classified as a «research laboratory for town planning and modern architectureÈ. Leading architects from the period, Le Corbusier, Os-

car Niemeyer and Guillaume Gillet were mandated to help reconstruct the city. The Bordeaux architect Claude Ferret supervised the work at Royan. Today Royan presents us with a blend of Art deco 1930s architecture, Le Corbusier with Brazilian influences and the contribution of Saint Onge regionalism that is known as the ƒcol e de Royan or Royan School. The Office de Tourisme will provide you with a document entitled Royan, ville 1950 with four circuits that enable you to appreciate the architecture dating from the reconstruction period. The imposing ƒgl ise Notre-Dame, with a capacity for 2,000 and designed by Guillaume Gillet, is one of the modernist buildings from this period that fails to win universal approval. 

the

French

Brasilia

The Royan Museum

The Royan Museum is situated in the old covered market at Pontaillac. It sets out to retrace the history of the city that was twice destroyed and three times rebuilt. The first written record of the city dates back to 1092. Then, like many other cities on the Atlantic coast, it was torn between the kingdoms of France and England. We next hear of it in 1815 because of its seawater baths. A casino was built in 1845 and Royan became fashionable. The museum focuses on this period, the bombing and the reconstruction, with many objects, posters and furniture items from the 1950s.

Le MusŽ e de Royan - Ancien MarchŽ de Pontaillac 31 avenue de Paris - 17200 Royan - Tel. + 33 (0)5 46 38 85 96

Glorious gardens

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The Charente-Maritime Ò dŽ partementÓ has a large number of very beautiful gardens, some of which are only open to visitors once a year on the occasion of an event called Ò Rendez-vous au JardinÓ held at the beginning of June. Here, we have selected a few that can be visited from Easter to the end of October :

Les Fontaines Bleues du Château de Beaulon In the grounds of Château de Beaulon, built around 1480, the Jardin Bleu is a magnificent formal garden filled with scented plants and bordered by a wooded section where, hidden in a romantic clump of trees, are the mysterious Ò blue fountainsÓ , natural springs that have provided inspiration for numerous legends. Château de Beaulon also sells a range of cognacs and a Pineau with a very interesting flavour. Open daily 1 May to 30 September, from 9am to 12.30pm and 2.30 to 6pm; from 1 October to 30 April, open Monday to Friday, from 9am to 12.30pm and 2 to 5pm.

25 rue Saint-Vincent - 17240 Saint-Dizant-du-Gua - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 49 96 13

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The gardens at Fontdouce Abbey The abbey, the restoration of which began in 1970, is worth visiting for its Romanesque and Gothic architecture. The formal gardens, of monastic inspiration, lie in a valley through which the Fontaine Douce flows. The water is channelled through the gardens in the form of a series of fountains before passing through the abbeyÕ s chapter house. Spectacular.

Open daily in April, May, June, September and October from 10.30am to 6.30pm and daily in July and August from 10am to 7pm.

17770 Saint-Bris-des-Bois - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 74 77 98

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Les Jardins d’Harmonie A series of enclosed gardens on a theme Ð the Mediterranean garden, winter garden, Levant garden, geometrically laid-out French kitchen garden, summer garden, etc. Collections of rare plants making for an enchanting ambience. Worth visiting. Open 15 May to 15 July from 3pm to 7pm on Saturday, Sunday and public holidays. Open 16 July to 15 August on Sunday. Open 16 August to 15 October on Saturday, Sunday and public holidays. Important : Neither children (even accompanied) nor pets are allowed.

La PrŽe aux Boeuf s - 17137 Nieul-sur-mer - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 37 29 76

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La Roseraie de la Devise Created in 1990, this rose garden contains over 200 varieties of ancient and modern roses growing alongside other collectorsÕ plants, grasses and clematis plants. Some old varieties of pear, apple, plum and peach trees can be found among the 80 trees in the nearby fruit orchard.

Open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 12 noon and 2pm to 6pm.

Aline and Patrick Blanchet in their rose garden

Plaisance - Route de Tonnay-Boutonne - 17700 VandrŽ - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 68 87 18

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❱ CoGnaC When in Cognac, a visit to the vielle ville (old historic city) with its narrow streets huddled around the chateau is a must. This medieval city with cobblestone streets has the history of Cognac written in the facades of the houses built between the Renaissance period and the 19th century. You will notice that the stone facades are often black, the result of the action of Torula Compniacensis, a fungus that feeds on alcoholic vapour ! Don’t miss the chateau of François I, the church of Saint LŽger with its remarkable 12th century portal emblazoned with the signs of the zodiac, and the towers of the Porte Saint Jacques, reconstructed in the 14th century. double-distillation and ceased to add water. Then, somewhat by chance, whenever deliveries were delayed, they noticed that the eau-de-vie improved when it spent more time in oak barrels. This technique was an instant success and Cognac and its region experienced an extraordinary boom. The history of Cognac is linked to English history. AmŽ lie de Cognac married Philip of Falconbridge, son or Richard the Lionheart, who later sold the lordship of Cognac to John Lackland. Then from 1366 to 1370, the son of Edward III, Edward Prince of Aquitaine, resided in the Château de Cognac. Attached to the kingdom of France, Cognac witnessed the birth of the future François I in 1494. Large trading counters were created throughout the region in the 18th century, essentially by the British, and major cognac brands like Hennessy, Otard and Martell were established. This explains why almost all the vocabulary relating to cognac is in English.  ©J.-L. Clavel

The Cognac RŽ gion DŽ limitŽ e i.e. the production region corresponding to the 6 Cognac crus as defined by decree on May 1, 1909, is situated north of the Aquitaine basin. It extends in the west to the Gironde and the islands of OlŽ ron and RŽ and in the east to the first slopes of the Massif Central. It is a beautiful region with gentle landscapes that have cultivated vineyards since Antiquity. However, the economy of the city of Cognac was originally based on salt. Beginning in the 13th century, wines from the region were transported by boat to the Scandinavian countries. Wine growers encountered two problems in the 16th century : increased production that made it impossible to transport the all the wine, and lower alcohol content in wines that made it difficult for them to survive the sea voyage. In the 17th century the people in the Cognac region improved the system invented by the Dutch, which consisted in distilling the wines and adding water after the voyage. They introduced

©J.-L. Clavel

Museum of Cognac Arts

This museum presents the economic and technical history of cognac over 1200m2. It covers all the different stages in the making of cognac, from the grapes on the vine to the final bottling. Les Remparts Place de la salle verte 16100 Cognac Tel. + 33 (0)5 45 36 21 10

Look after your health. Drink moderately

Discovering the Cognac region

This museum is located in the former Augier Maison de Cognac. It presents the heritage of the Cognac region, the history of the Charente river, the fauna and flora and the Romanesque art of the region. Les Remparts Place de la salle verte 16100 Cognac Tel. + 33 (0)5 45 36 03 65

The Cognac Stages

This consists of a series of events organized by winegrowers in order to present their know-how in the heart of the vineyards with a variety of different activities and visits, including a trip in a hotair balloon and, naturally, tasting sessions. The very interesting programme is presented on the site indicated below. Maison des Viticulteurs 25 rue Cagouillet 16100 Cognac Tel. + 33 (0)5 45 36 47 35 www.cognacetapes.com

La Dame Jeanne

This gabare (an old-style wooden sailing boat) is identical to one that was once used to transport merchandise. It has been equipped to take up to 70 passengers and is a fascinating way to discover the river, the surrounding countryside and chateaux. Special activities and night excursions are organized for the summer period. Ofﬁce de Tourisme 16 rue du 14 juillet 16100 Cognac Tel. + 33 (0)5 45 82 10 71 www.tourism-cognac.com

Visits to major Cognac houses

The old Cognac houses organize guided tours of their establishments with commentaries on how cognac is made and aged, visits to the chais, and tasting sessions. A visit to Otard introduces you to some of the most beautiful parts of the Château de Cognac.

Hennessy

Quais Richard Hennessy 16100 Cognac Tel. + 33 (0)5 45 35 72 68 www.hennessy.com

Otard

Ch‰ teau de Cognac Sas 127 Bld Denfert Rochereau 16100 Cognac Tel. + 33 (0)5 45 36 88 86 www.otard.com

Martell & Co-Cognac

7 Place Edouard Martell 16100 Cognac Tel. + 33 (0)5 45 36 35 35 www.martell.com

❱ UseFUl addResses Côté Wesh Here you will discover a line of beauty products Les sens de Marrakech & TadŽ pays du Levant, striped or honeycombstitch plain Tunisian foutas (Û 20), bath sheets (Û 49) and towels (50 x 200cm = Û 20) handwoven in Morocco, a series of accessories, including shoes, tunics and animal-hide jackets and Oriental-style hanging lamps at interesting prices.

7 rue Jean Monnet - 17880 Les Portes en RŽ - Tel. +33 (0)5 46 41 19 16

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Migration In the beginning GrŽ goire Bonin was inspired by the marshes on the Ile de RŽ and created very beautiful plaster birds. In 2001 he opened a boutique where he exhibits his creations and decorative objects. The charm of the island is the common denominator for everything on display. The house also serves as a storage place for painter and sculptor friends.

8 quai Nicolas Baudin - 17410 Saint-Martin de RŽ - Tel. +33 (0)5 46 35 89 85

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Le Bateau Phare A veritable paradise filled with boating equipment and models. Here we have a fishing boat (€69) and a wooden tuna fishing boat (€90), there a racing yacht (Û 240) and, dominating the middle of the room, an Arno hydroplane boat. Of all the knives on display, the Retha is one of the finest, alongside the folding oyster knife (€28.70) and the Hermione Opinel (Û 19) with an oak handle.

31 rue de Sully - 17410 Saint-Martin de RŽ - Tel. +33 (0)5 46 09 29 19

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Le jardin de Lydie Lydie jams derive their inimitable taste from the quality of the fruit and the proportions : 70% fruit and 30% added sugar. She even makes a 100% fruit jam for diabetics. Lydie also makes crystallized preparations, jellies, chutneys and natural syrups. Her products can be found on the Ile de RŽ , in Paris, in Europe and on the Internet.

23 rue de lÕ ƒ glise - 17580 Le Bois Plage en RŽ - Tel. +33 (0)5 46 09 40 41 - www.lejardindelydie.com

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GEMMES Stones A choice of jewellery made of silver and semi-precious stones or individual crystals and stones. It is only natural to be attracted to a stone that will help you to re-establish your inner harmony. 341820

Whether we wear them as jewels or have them in our environment, these stones exert a subtle power on us, creating the vibrations and energies we need.

18 rue Saint Nicolas - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel. +33 (0)5 46 31 56 75

Ernest the La Rochelle ice cream maker who has delighted us with his delicious recipes for more than 10 years is now opening a new shop at the port, opposite La Coursive. With a decidedly contemporary and designer dŽ cor, this second address nevertheless offers us the same choice of flavours as the historic shop in the Rue du Port. Enjoy the creations marked 2010 from one end of the Vieux Port to the other. They are based on childhood flavours (e.g. rice pudding, wild strawberries, violet marshmallow, peanuts). We also discover or rediscover traditional ice creams on a stick, coated in grand cru Valrhona chocolate, based on the tasty ice cream and sorbet recipes that have made Ernest ices an essential part of the La Rochelle experience.

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Ernest le Glacier

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www.ernest-le-glacier.com

48 cours des Dames - Tel. +33 (0)5 46 43 48 61 65 & rue du Port - Tel. +33 (0)5 46 50 55 60

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to w ar ds

Pa ris

❱ map oF tHe CHaRente-maRitime

towards ux

Bordea

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❱ UseFUl inFoRmation BRITISH CONSULATE

The closest Bristish consulate is in Bordeaux : 353 Bld du PrŽ sident Wilson.

MEDICAL and EMERGENCY ASSISTANCE Police : Fire brigade : Lifeboat service : Samu (medical services) :

TOURIST OFFICES Comité Départemental du Tourisme de la Charente-Maritime Maison de la Charente-Maritime 85 B ld de la RŽ publique 17000 La Rochelle

Ofﬁce de Tourisme de La Rochelle

2 quai Georges Simenon 17000 La Rochelle www.larochelle-tourisme.com

European emergencies : (somebody speaking English will answer your call)

HOSPITALS

Ofﬁce de Tourisme Rochefort-Océan Avenue Sadi Carnot 17300 Rochefort

Ofﬁce de Tourisme de Royan Palais des Congrès 2 avenue des Congrès 17200 Royan www.ot-royan.fr

Île de Ré Tourisme

Ofﬁce de Tourisme de Cognac

3 rue Père Ignace 17410 Saint-Martin-de-RŽ

16 rue du 14 juillet 16100 Cognac

www.iledere.com

www.tourism-cognac.com

Hôpital Saint-Louis

rue Docteur Schweitzer 17000 La Rochelle

Centre Hospitalier de Saintonge 11 Bd Ambroise ParŽ 17100 Saintes

Centre Hospitalier de Rochefort 16 rue du Docteur Pelletier 17300 Rochefort

Centre Hospitalier de Royan 20 avenue Saint-Sordelin Plage 17640 - Vaux-sur-Mer

YACHT HARBOURING Rochefort Port de plaisance et capitainerie 17300 Rochefort

Royan Port de plaisance 1 qujai de la vieille JetŽ e 17200 Royan

La Rochelle Port de plaisance des Minimes Avenue de la Capitainerie 17026 La Rochelle cedex 1

Port de plaisance de lÕ ancien bassin ders Chalutiers Quai Louis Prunier 17000 La Rochelle

Restaurant

A la Plancha There is the sea, and a large terrace from which to admire it. There is the cooking by Romain, a specialist on cuttlefish, his latest culinary discoveries and grilled fresh fish. There are maison preparations, like the terrines. There is the gravlax maison, a Scandinavian speciality that has been acclimatized to the Ile de Ré There is the mackerel terrine. There are recipes with a hint of exoticism, like the bass stuffed with chorizo, cuttlefish and coconut There is also the 400gr rib of beef for one, with grenaille potatoes There are Isabelle’s desserts, fondant au chocolate (melt-in-themouth chocolate pastry), soupe de fraises (strawberry soup), sablé façon tarte aux citrons (lemon tart-style shortbread) There are menus at £13.50 and £17

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There is Isabelle’s personal welcome 12 ter cours Félix Faure - 17630 La Flotte en Ré - Tel. 33 (0)5 46 68 10 34

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