Holidays n°3 by RHEA MARKETING

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L’abus d’alcool est dangereux pour la santé, a consommer avec modération

05 46 29 84 83

21 bis place du Maréchal Foch - La Rochelle (place de la Préfecture) holidays n° 3.indd 2

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N° 3 - Juillet 2011

Gastronomy

Restaurants on the île de Ré ................................................................ 4 Charming and unusual restaurants on the île de Ré ................ 13 Restaurants in La Rochelle ................................................................ 15 Restaurants around La Rochelle ...................................................... 18 Where to eat an icecream ................................................................. 22 Going out for a drink .......................................................................... 24 Products of the terroir ......................................................................... 27

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CONTENTS Life on the île de Ré

The great outdoors ............................................................................... 40 Ancient buildings ................................................................................. 45 Cultural and artistic life ...................................................................... 49

The publisher is not responsible for any inaccuracies, errors or omissions in «Holidays in Charente-Maritime». No part of this publication may be reproduced or used for advertising purposes or any other purposes. Advertising photos were provided by the advertisers, who are responsible in the case of any copyright disputes.

Life in Charente-Maritime

La Rochelle ............................................................................................. Rochefort ................................................................................................. A map of Charente-Maritime ........................................................... Île d’Aix ................................................................................................... Île d’Oléron ............................................................................................ Royan and surroundings .................................................................... Saintes ...................................................................................................... Saint Jean d’Angély .............................................................................. Jonzac ....................................................................................................... Beautiful gardens in Charente-Maritime ......................................

Further away in Charente Cognac

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51 60 62 63 64 67 68 70 72 74

Useful addresses ........................................................................ 78 Useful information ................................................................... 80

Editor in chief : Nathalie Vauchez Editorial : Catherine Bréjat Translation : Liam Gavin Cover pictures and page design by AlphaStudio Advertising : Rhéa Marketing - 19 av de Philippsburg BP 43 - 17410 Saint-Martin de Ré - Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 00 09 19 mail : rhea@rheamarketing.fr

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Printer : Imprimerie Rochelaise - PEFC/10-31-1240 - FCBA/08-00890 Print run : 40 000 copies - Legal deposit upon publication Holidays in Charente-Maritime is published by Rhéa Marketing Holidays in Charente-Maritime is printed with vegetal ink on ecological, chlorine-free paper from sustainably managed forests. All waste is recycled. Our printer’s ecoprinter logo and PEFC certification is our guaranty.

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RESTAURANTS ON THE ILE DE RÉ

N°3 JUILLET 2011

❱ LES GOLLANDIÈRES A friendly and elegant location, a fireplace in winter and a refreshingly cool pool to look onto in summer. Add to that a chef with a reputation - Frank Tememe - and you have all the right ingredients for a truly enjoyable meal. This restaurant, which celebrated its fortieth anniversary last year, serves a variety of menus. From the “Les Gollandières” menu, you can try the great classic dishes that have made the chef’s reputation – Mediterranean prawns’ tails in tempura, home-prepared duck foie gras with Pineau on a bed of figs and Banyuls, scallop carpaccio with basil or a pan-seared beef fillet with a Bourgueil wine sauce - €30 for a main course and cheese or dessert, €36 for a starter and main and €40 for a starter, main, cheese or dessert. Other specialities can be found on the “Lobster” menu at €70 (to be ordered twenty-four hours in advance) with its home-prepared duck foie gras and a glass of Sauternes, grilled lobster with tarragon and fresh goat’s cheese from Loix, or you may prefer a seafood platter (€39), which also

needs to be ordered beforehand to avoid you having to wait. Manager Guillaume Mathieu will help you choose from the very good wine list. Please note that the restaurant is run independently of the hotel and that non-residents are welcome. 

Elegance and ﬁne

Look after your health. Drink moderately

dining

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Best Western Les Gollandières Avenue des Gollandières 17580 Le-Bois-Plage-en-Ré Tel: +33 (0)5 46 09 23 99 www.lesgollandieres.com

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❱ HÔTEL & SPA LA BARONNIE

A haven of peace Ideally located in the heart of Saint-Martin, close to the harbour and the town centre, this charming hotel comprises two 18th century properties: La Baronnie, an historic monument, and a beautiful manor house. The period furniture, picked up at ﬂea markets and auctions over the years, combine with the owner’s customized and tasteful decor to make it a residence of character. All the rooms are different, spacious and comfortable, and bear evocative names: Le Roy, La Reine, Madame de Sévigné, Buckingham and Milady. The vast gardens, the enclosed courtyards and terraces introduce us to a peaceful and verdant oasis where clients are free to stroll at their leisure. They can choose to have their buffet breakfast in the dining room or on the terrace, or to read quietly

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in the garden in the shade of the olive trees or in one of the lounges. The private spa with its own swimming pool and Jacuzzi lends an added luxury to this haven of peace for clients in search of well-being. A beauty consultant provides personalized treatments that enable clients to combine pleasure and relaxation. Grégoire Pallardy, Osteopath, will also teach you how to keep in shape at all ages. All the staff provide a warm and friendly welcome that will make your stay unforgettable. La Baronnie Hotel & Spa is a no smoking establishment and has a private car park. 

17-21 rue Baron de Chantal 17410 Saint-Martin de Ré Tél. +33 (0)5 46 09 21 29 www.hotel-labaronnie.com

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Photos © Incognito.fr

❱ LA BALEINE BLEUE Fine dining

Look after your health. Drink moderately

Ideally situated with a panoramic view of the harbour in Saint-Martin-de-Ré, La Baleine Bleue is one of the best restaurants on Île de Ré. The atmosphere Philippe Bodart has chosen for the place is one of informal stylishness. He has also taken on Christophe Rouillé, a talented young chef whose impressive training record includes one of Guy Savoy’s bistrots in Paris, Château d’Artigny in the Touraine region and Boyer les Crayères in Reims. He has been at the establishment for a number of years already and, true to house tradition, he principally uses wild fish bought only at La Rochelle’s fish auction and vegetables in season from the local market. His dishes

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are cooked to perfection and seasoned only to the point of enhancing ﬂavour without altering the taste of his ingredients. At lunchtime, there is a menu at €28 for a starter and main course or main course and dessert. For dinner, it will cost €38 for an appetiser, main course and dessert and, if you add a starter, it will come to €43. The house keeps a good selection of wines to accompany this delicious fare. The setting is elegant with three terraces from which you can watch the boats in fine weather. Open from 11pm to 2am – a champagne bar much frequented by night-owls, serving fifteen or so types of champagne as well as cognac. 

La Baleine Bleue îlot de Saint-Martin 17410 Saint-Martin-de-Ré Tel: +33 (0)5 46 09 03 30

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N°3 JUILLET 2011

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❱ L’OCÉAN

Look after your health. Drink moderately

A special place This charming hotel invites us to discover the very special atmosphere of village houses on the Ile de Ré, with an excellent restaurant that is open to the general public. Anne and Frédéric welcome you to a bright dining area with seascapes hanging from the walls. The restaurant extends on to a terrace in the shade of sails and overlooking the patio. An ideal place in summer to savour the chef’s tasty and decidedly sea-based cooking, with noble fish, seafood and shellfish. The focus is on freshness and quality and the timing is perfect. The chef blends spices that bring out the natural ﬂavours of sea products. There is a choice of options: a menu at €25.00 and €34.00, a special lunchtime menu at €18.50, a children’s menu at €12.00, as well as à la carte or quite simply the dish of the day. A special wine list to go with this seafood gastronomy. The hotel has 30 rooms fully equipped with every modern comfort, television, telephone, wifi connection, customized decor in which we find all the taste and know-how of the owners, Martine and Noel Bourdet. In fine weather you can take your place by the pool for the day, in the shade of the hundred-yearold pine tree or in the garden, where relaxation is the only item on the agenda. In the offseason an open fire and cosy lounges with Ré

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woodwork invite us to slow down and warm up, while all year long a beauty salon with the evocative name «Secret de Hammam» is an open invitation to relax and enjoy. 

Hôtel Restaurant L’Océan 172 rue Saint-Martin 17580 Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré Tel. +33 (0)5 46 09 23 07 e-mail: info@re-hotel-ocean.cvom site : www.re-hotel-ocean.com

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❱ LE RICHELIEU The setting is elegant, a Relais & Châteaux establishment. And there is an exceptional view of the sea from the restaurant and terrace. The décor is refined. All the conditions are conducive to spending a moment of sheer pleasure in the Richelieu gastronomic restaurant. The chef, Frédéric Mauchien, makes simple dishes based on quality products. Good products, cooked to perfection to the nearest second, this is the young chef’s first article of faith. He goes on to recommend eating regional food, knowing the suppliers and discovering everything the terroir has to offer. This is how, starting out from a Marans hen from breeders he knows, he combines eggs with AOC Ile de Ré potatoes with their distinctive ﬂavour, and prepares a poultry breast fermier stuffed with langoustines !

Imagination and creation also grow out of our encounters and this is what enables him to completely renew his carte several times a year. Two menus, one at €55 and the other at €65, complete the offer, along with the suggestions of the day at lunchtime. The suggestions of the day are based on the morning’s purchases at the market and the daily creation of the recipe that combines them, a blending of ﬂavours where all of Frédéric’s art comes into play, a moment of rare pleasure. This apparently simple cuisine – though it would be more appropriate to speak of simplicity in sophistication – is further enhanced by the grands crus in the Richelieu’s magnificent cellar. Stéphane Thomas, the wine waiter, will advise you on a choice of wines. The restaurant is in the hands of a young and energetic crew that tends discreetly and effectively to your every need throughout the meal. 

A moment

of sheer

Look after your health. Drink moderately

pleasure

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Relais & Châteaux Avenue de la Plage 17630 La Flotte Tel: +33 (0)5 46 09 60 70 www.hotel-le-richelieu.fr

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❱ LES EMBRUNS

Look after your health. Drink moderately

The decor lives up to the name... ... (embruns: sea spray) with its suggestion of swashbuckling adventures: here we find ourselves by the seaside with seashells on the tables and driftwood on the wall. But the adventure that awaits us is essentially gustatory and depends on the great talent of the chef, in this case a woman. Hélène cooks divinely, using her olfactory memory to explore and rediscover the ﬂavours and aromas of her childhood. She offers us a sensual cuisine with a refined presentation that awakens and stimulates the senses. For Hélène, cooking is an all-consuming passion without which she could not live, although she did not start her own business until relatively late. She welcomes us to her home as guests and takes a real interest in how much we enjoy our meal. She cooks in a classic style, based essentially on noble fish, that she brings to life with products like the Ile de Ré fleur de sel and olive oil. The restaurant offers a basic menu, but Hélène gives free rein to her imagination based on what she finds on the fish and vegetable market in the morning. Lunch or dinner at Hélène’s is an experience that will leave you with an unforgettable memory of French cuisine. 

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6 passage Chay Morin on the little island of Saint-Martin, just behind the Office de Tourisme 17410 Saint-Martin-de-Ré Tel: +33 (0)5 46 09 63 23

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N°3 JUILLET 2011

❱ CASINO CHATELAILLON Practically on the waterfront, the casino is also well exposed to the sun. Players may be surprised by the new slot machines that accept 1, 2 or 5 cent coins, offering hopes of a jackpot for a small investment! The casino also offers all the classic table games in a congenial atmosphere: roulette, blackjack, Texas Hold’em and stud poker. In between playing, visitors can enjoy refreshments on the terrace overlooking the ocean. And the Eiffel restaurant decked out after the fashion of a chic and fashionable bistro

serves up excellent sea fare. One important detail: if you don’t want to be left standing at the door, remember to bring along ID papers!

Casino de Chatelaillon-Plage Groupe Emeraude 96 Bld de la République 17340 Châtelaillon-Plage Tel: +33 (0)5 46 56 48 48

NEW s Whole fish for two person

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❱Côté Jardin

CHARMING AND UNUSUAL RESTAURANTS

A magnificent indoor garden It all started when a group of friends decided to change their lives, and grew into a warm and friendly restaurant that serves up tasty food rendered all the more tasty by delicious spices and reasonable prices, with a fixed-price lunchtime menu at €16. The wine recommended by the waiter is also good and prices are still reasonable. But this restaurant owes its enchanting character to its luxurious indoor garden. Notable improvements have been introduced this year in an effort to domesticate nature: blinds to protect us from the over-zealous sun and appropriate closures to protect us from gusting winds. The restaurant is now open all year round. Good news for permanent residents of Saint Martin! Côté Jardin - 14 rue Émile Atgier - 17410 Saint-Martin - Tél : 05 46 68 16 75

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La Cabane du Fier In the quaint setting of an oysterfarming hut with a large terrace overlooking the Fier d’Ars, Christophe Frigière prepares his meals from fresh vegetables, fish and seafood over a wood-fired grill. The menu of this friendly and informal restaurant changes frequently. Worth going to, if only for the view or for the sunset in fine weather.

Lieu-dit Le Martray - 17590 Ars en Ré - Tél : +33 (0)5 46 29 64 84

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Café du Commerce

Look after your health. Drink moderately

The Café du Commerce in Ars is more than just a café restaurant ; it is also an institution where many locals used to gather in their youth to remonstrate against the establishment. In the 60s, it was also the haunt of many stars of the French cinema when they came to the island on holiday. Ideally located on the harbour in Ars, it has a large terrace where its customers can sit to be seen. Its interior decoration, like its menu, is of American inspiration with copious refreshing salads, crêpes and Tex-Mex dishes.

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6 quai de la Prée - 17590 Ars en Ré - Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 41 57

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Le Bistrot du Marin With its ambience reminiscent of a return from fishing, warm and friendly interior decor, a well-oriented terrace in summer and fast, efficient service, this has become a very popular spot for coffee in the morning sun, an aperitif at the bar or a meal. On the menu, there is a choice of two starters, a meat course, fish dish and two desserts at reasonable prices. The menu even changes daily ! At the bar, there will usually be something to snack on while enjoying an aperitif. 10 Quai Nicolas Baudin - 17410 - Saint-Martin de Ré - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 68 74 66

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Chai Pépette Original décor, a bistrot ambience, a few high tables – and the scene is set. All reﬂecting the personality of Pépette and his boisterous sense of humour. You can choose between the slate of the date or the great classics of the house, rib of beef or foie gras. The platters : oysters charcuterie or cheese, are served all day long. Pizzas : eat in or take away. The terrace is overlooking the Place d’Antioche. 5 place d’Antioche - 17740 Saint Marie de Ré - Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 30 03 55

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Les Tilleuls

We feel the charm of this restaurant as soon as we enter it. With a fine terrace at the front and a charming little courtyard at the back, it is unlike any other. The owner, Ludovic Pelé, an artist and inveterate antique hunter, also owns the deco boutique next door, where we can admire some of his work. Crepes, couscous, pizzas, large salads with goat’s cheese or Ile de Ré potato salads, you are sure to find something to your taste. Prices are reasonable and the house has a menu with a starter, main dish and dessert for €16.50. Have a look in the deco boutique as you leave, you won’t be disappointed. Place des Tilleuls - La Noue - 17740 Sainte-Marie de Ré - Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 30 02 76

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❱La Solette

RESTAURANTS IN LA ROCHELLE

N°3 JUILLET 2011

The very reasonably priced La Solette bar-restaurant is situated on a charming place in the fashionable Saint-Nicolas district. It is located in a dreamhouse and has a large open-air terrace. As soon as the fine weather begins, people begin to frequent the Solette in the morning for a typically French breakfast with a croissant and a long piece of baguette with butter. For those who feel peckish during the day, the house proposes plates of whelks or shrimps with homemade mayonnaise or a half-dozen six oysters. There are different menus at mealtimes but you can also settle for a sandwich or a large salad. The chef’s proposals are displayed on a slate each day. It is a very friendly place where it is easy to meet people from the city and the local district who drop in for a drink and a chat with the patron. 11 Place de la Fourche - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 41 06 33

Le Mistral

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Restaura LE MIST 15

A dining room in the tradition of ocean liners.

A panoramic view, facing the aquarium and the trawler harbour, 100 m from the tourist office.

Continuez votre croisière v dansournotre salle de paqueb Discover seafood specialities. Menus at €12.50, €17.00, €24.50, €9 Salle climatisée - Vue pano Air conditioning.

Look after your health. Drink moderately

for MUSSELS AND CHIPS.

Découvrez nos menus à

Seafood platters for €22.

Children welcome, special children’s menu at €8.00 drinks included.

Face à l’aquarium et au ba

Restaurant Le Mistral - Quai Georges Simenon - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel : 05.46.41.24.42 ❱ Place des Coureauleurs - 17000 La Rochelle - T

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★★★

Hôtel Saint-Jean d’Acre The most beautiful part of La Rochelle, at the foot of the towers in the Vieux Port. The hotel, superbly located at the foot of 2 Towers making the entry into the harbour, offers the privilege of discovering the historic town round the clock : cobblestone streets, medieval houses, museums, monuments. Swayed by the beauty of the setting between the Old Port and the Old Town... 60 rooms including 12 family rooms for 3-4 guests : soundproofing, air-conditioning, ﬂat-screen TV, Canal +, satellite TV channels, minibar, Internet, free Wifi throughout hotel, public Internet connection in lobby. Nearby : 40 ha of parks, casino, beaches, aquarium, zoo, touring of La Rochelle, museums, mini-cruise to the Isles (Ré, Oléron, Aix) and Ford Boyard... For business stays : 4 seminar rooms, including 1 with a panoramic view over the Old Port. Just steps away : restaurants and brasseries Acces via motorway 10, exit Niort and Saintes, La Rochelle, follow signs indicating « Centre Ville/ Vieux Port, Prefecture », parking Saint Jean d’Acre.

349760

Look after your health. Drink moderately

www.hotel-la-rochelle.com info@hotel-la-rochelle.com

4 place de la Chaîne - 17000 La Rochelle - Tél. +33 (0)5 46 41 73 33 - Fax. +33 (0)5 46 41 10 01

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RESTAURANTS AROUND LA ROCHELLE

❱ LES JARDINS DU LAC ... stands in the middle of lovely grounds opposite a lake, where the atmosphere is best described as one of peace and tranquillity. The large picture windows of the ground-ﬂoor restaurant look out onto the grounds and, in good weather, lunch or dinner are served on the terrace. “Les jardins du Lac” is known as one of the Poitou-Charentes region’s best places to eat. This is gastronomic fare at reasonable prices, which is fairly unusual. Michel and his son, Johann, are in the kitchen, where they use goodquality regional produce that is in season, prepared in such a way as to bring out the ﬂavours rather than mask them. The fish is of the very best variety and quality; we recommend the poached wild turbot, green asparagus in

morel mushroom juice, line-caught sea bass or sole from Oléron. If you prefer meat, try the canon of roast lamb with garden herb crumble – you won’t regret it. The desserts live up to the rest of the menu; we couldn’t resist the “pomme Belchard confite”, an orange and green tea jelly and an apple sorbet, all of which were served with an almond biscuit. A very good, comprehensive wine list helps to complete a perfect meal. Michel’s wife, Sabine, provides charming service and will take good care of you throughout your meal. 

This hotel restaurant, owned by the Suire family...

Photos © Jardin du Lac

Les Jardins du Lac Hotel and restaurant 3 Chemin Fontchaude - 17250 Trizay Tel: +33 (0)5 46 82 03 56

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Look after your health. Drink moderately

❱ LES JARDINS D’ALIÉNOR Since it opened in April 2005, the charm and distinction of the decor and the excellence of the food have made Les Jardins d’Aliénor a must whenever we visit the Ile d’Oléron. We can even stay overnight, as it is also a hotel with four comfortable rooms named after historical personages who have played a role in the region: the Aliénor d’Aquitaine and Vauban rooms, and the Pierre d’Argencourt and Chevalier de Clerville suites. There is a tasting room that is open all day long where we can savour cognac, but also a wide selection of whiskies. There is also a cigar cellar. The restaurant lives up to the high standards of the rest of the establishment, both in terms of food and decor. The cuisine is light and inventive, refined and

tasty, with a menu that changes from season to season but always includes grand classics like oysters and foie gras. The chef works with noble fish like sole and bass. In addition to the à la carte menu, there are two set-price menus at €40 and €65. A fine cellar completes the pleasant offer of this tasteful restaurant where your waiter will advise on a suitable wine for each dish, as well as offering you a special «food and wine match» at €20 to accompany your menu. You can bask in the heat of the fire in the offseason, but in season it is a pleasure to lunch or dine outside in the charming courtyard. This is a much-frequented address, particularly in summer. Remember to reserve at least forty-eight hours in advance. 

7-11 rue du Maréchal Foch - 17480 Le Château d’Oléron Tel: 33 +(0)5 46 76 48 30

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Le Vieux Logis

N°3 JUILLET 2011

Savour the chef’s cuisine in the three charming dining areas with their bright and sunny decor in a building that reminds us of an old coaching inn. Philippe Girard and his wife took over the business in 2009 and the quality of their food quickly won them a regular clientele in spite of the fact that their hotel-restaurant is off the beaten track. All dishes are based on fresh and good-quality products, oodles of imagination and a hint of the exotic inspired by the chef’s stay in the French West Indies. Particular attention is paid to vegetables, which are many and varied depending on the dish. The desserts are light and tasty, a felicitous combination of imagination and ﬂavour. Wine is served by the glass and the house has an exceptional menu at €16. The reception and service are of the same high standard as the cooking. If you happen to be passing nearby, this is an essential stopover. Le Vieux Logis - 1 and 3 rue du 8 mai 1945 - 17500 Clam - Tel. +33 (0)5 46 70 20 13

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Le Coq d’Or Le Coq d’Or was founded in 1908 and still retains its original facade. In season, white parasols provide shade on the sunny terrace facing the Chateau de Jonzac. Under new management since 2006, this beautiful brasserie with a large bar and old-style decor is always good for an aperitif, while the dining room offers a more modern ambience. The cooking is modern, extremely tasty, reasonably priced and the presentation of the dishes is an art in itself. The economic lunchtime offer provides fixed price menus ranging from €12.50 to €30.00 and an à la carte menu. Recently refurbished, five spacious bedrooms now provide overnight accommodation, with some of them overlooking the chateau.

18 place du Château - 17500 Jonzac - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 48 00 06

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❱ LE CHÊNE VERT This amazing establishment is the result of the encounter of two equally amazing individuals. The charm and authenticity of this restaurant-gallery in the heart of the Saintonge region is surpassed only by that of its owners. Gisèle Van Wambeke, a Flemish painter and sculptor, welcomes guests with a warm and friendly smile while her companion, Andrew Bryan is busy at the ovens. After studying philosophy this Scotsman born in Canada went on to run a highly reputed restaurant in Scotland. When he met Gisèle she was seeking a way to combine her passion for art with the culi-

Look after your health. Drink moderately

Charm and authenticity of the restaurant gallery

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nary art. The encounter was decisive and together they created the concept for this restaurant-gallery that is a hymn to genuine values. In the peace and tranquillity of the Saintonge countryside Andrew gives free rein to his inspiration, using vegetables from the garden and local markets, and the chickens he rears in the yard. He produces tasty family cooking that is inﬂuenced by the countries where he has lived. The menu, like the wine list, does not offer a very wide choice, but quality is the keyword. You can even stay overnight if it takes your fancy. 

Opened from Tuesday to Saturday.

31 rue Principale Chagnon 17770 Aumagne Tel: +33 (0)5 46 33 04 22

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WHERE TO EAT AN ICECREAM

N°3 JUILLET 2011

❱ CHEZ L’ANGÉLYS Other addresses where you can enjoy L’Angélys ice cream and sorbets:

Situated in the heart of the pedestrian district of Saintes, this pastry shop and tea room is Denis Lavaud’s first boutique. Take a gourmet break and treat yourself to an ice cream, a waffle or a coffee. The sorbets are gorged with fruit and the ice cream range has all your favourite classics, unless you prefer to be tempted by more unusual flavours. In summer a charming street terrace is an open invitation to relish your favourite flavours in the shade of the parasols. 

36, rue Victor Hugo - 17100 Saintes Tel. +33 (0)5 46 92 07 84

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LE BRISE GLACE This unique and pleasant terrace facing the famous 2 towers of the old port in La Rochelle is a perfect place to take the sun and admire the boats while you pamper your palate with a delicious traditional ice cream, a smoothie, a crepe or a wafﬂe.

8 Quai Duperré - 17000 La Rochelle LA CHOCOLATIÈRE Don’t miss this gourmet’s paradise nestling in the heart of one of the most beautiful villages on the already very beautiful Ile de Ré. Savour the traditional L’Angélys ice creams and a selection of fine chocolates, assorted confectionary and house specialities.

1, rue du marché -17630 La Flotte en Ré

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LET 2011

Ernest le Glacier

If you haven’t eaten one of these at least once in your life, you haven’t lived! For the last year, two addresses near the harbour have been serving up the same delicious ice creams in an attempt to meet the ever-increasing demand. Behind this success we find two brothers, Freddy and Nicolas Babin, both ice-cream aficionados who inherited their concept of rigour and quality from their grandfather Ernest. Everything here is homemade and new and original ﬂavours are introduced each year. Choose from a list of nearly 80 ﬂavours. Perhaps you will be attracted by the sorbet of wild strawberries with marshmallow and violet or this year’s innovations: slab of ice cream with AOC butter or with grilled Sicilian pistachios. The Méditerrannéenne is still our undisputed favourite: sorbet of blood oranges with crystallized figs and walnuts, which you can combine with the Corne de gazelle or the sorbet of black chocolate with spicy nougatine.

THE ice-cream maker in La Rochelle.

16 rue du Port - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 50 55 60 48 cours des Dames - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 43 48 65

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Le Parad’ice Christophe Klein learned the trade when working with renowned ice cream makers like Ladurée and Pierre Hermé. In 1998 he moved to Châtelaillon. Since then he has built up a solid reputation in the region as a make of traditional-style icecream. He makes his ice creams and sorbets from natural products only and excludes all colouring agents. They come in a variety of sometimes surprising ﬂavours, like the OCB (orange, carrot, bergamot), reﬂecting the season, trends and his own inspiration of the moment, but the result is always delicious.

boulevard de la Mer - 17340 Châtelaillon - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 30 00 13

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Going out for a drink N°1 JULY 201 0

❱ BARS AND LATE-NIGHT EATING & DRINKING IN ❱ Mattaï Café

12 rue de la Bletterie - 17000 La Rochelle Tel : +33 (0)5 46 41 45 23 Open daily 5pm-2am

Chic & stylish decor for a drink on the terrace on a warm summer evening or inside listening to rock, electro or drum & bass while sipping cocktails with provocative names !

❱ Le Bergamote

Cour du Temple - 17000 La Rochelle Tel : +33 (0)5 46 41 72 69

Open daily in July and August from 12 noon to 2am

For enthusiasts of sailing and rum and for a complete change of atmosphere, the exotic decoration of this bar - sand on the ﬂoor and bamboo plants matches its name perfectly (World’s End). Ti-punch and all kinds of rum available while listening to Jamaican and African rhythms.

Just around the corner from the seafront in the centre of the old quarter, exotic, convivial decoration for an early evening Mattaï or Viagra cocktail with tapas. Dancing to “funk” music after midnight.

❱ Au Bout du Monde

Port des Minimes - 17000 La Rochelle Tel : +33 (0)5 46 52 23 64 Open daily from 5pm to 2am

■ A friendly, local bar run by Fran & Bruno, where friends can come

for a chat, play chess, cards or dice to a background of pop-rock music from the 60s right up to the latest sounds.

■ A small, traditional-style bar that’s rare to find these days, in a tiny

street just around the corner from La Rochelle’s Vieux Port.

■ «Tapas-Emballent» cocktail hour every Thursday evening from 6pm. 341739

Tapas offered by the owners free of charge with drinks...for as long as they last... ■ Broadcasts of all sporting events from different available channels (terrestrial TV as well as digital and satellite, e.g. TNT, Canal+, Sport+, Foot+, Rugby+, Eurosport)

LA TRAPPE-SOURIS Bar-Pub - 5 Rue Verdière - LA ROCHELLE 17000 - Tél. 05 46 29 07 06

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An authentic Réunion-style rum bar where the terrace has an outstanding view of the Baie de Bonne-Anse. Restaurant with Tex-Mex specialities, Ti-punch, Pina Colada and wild rhythms.

❱ Le Golfy

Port de Bonne-Anse 17570 La Palmyre-Les Mathés Tel : +33 (0)5 46 22 45 76

Open daily 1 May to 10 September from 8am to 10pm

A friendly bar on a Latin American theme. Mojitos and island rum galore. A good place to spend some time before going to the Boucquingam across the road.

❱ Cubana Café

9 Venelle de la Fosse Bray 17410 Saint-Martin de Ré Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 93 49

Closed Monday out of high season. Otherwise open daily from 7pm to 2am

IN CHARENTE-MARITIME Chic, cosy bar with glamorous, hip musical ambience where it’s appropriate to drink a glass of champagne or the house cocktail. Superb view of Royan harbour from the terrace.

❱ Le Floor

8, Quai Amiral Meyer - 17200 Royan Tel : +33 (0)5 46 39 01 10

Open daily from 11am to 2am

The only night club open all year on Île de Ré, La Playa is especially popular in July and August. Plenty of theme evenings, a large dance ﬂoor and a variety of ambiences spread throughout this vast place.

❱ Club La Playa

Route des Grenettes - 17740 Sainte-Marie Tel : +33 (0)5 46 30 15 46

Look after your health. Drink moderately

Open every night in July and August from 11.30pm to 5am

Baroque decor with an amazing red bar and the latest sounds, this is THE club in SaintMartin de Ré. Parisian DJ in high season, small groups of musicians currently in vogue and exotic rhythms with Djembe drums; plenty of interest to keep you from boredom ! The evening begins at midnight, but you can have sushi beforehand at the bar near the club entrance.

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❱ Le Boucquingam

3 Venelle de la Fosse Bray 17410 Saint-Martin de Ré Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 01 20 Open every night in July and August from midnight to 5am

Tapas bar with a great terrace overlooking the port. Sangria, a large choice of rum cocktails and wild African decor on the first ﬂoor, where you can have a bite to eat. Friendly and hospitable.

❱ Le Cervane

Quai Launay-Razilly 17410 Saint-Martin de Ré Tel : +33 (0)5 46 09 20 99

Bar and restaurant with music mixed by a DJ. Champagne is frequently served as this is a chic place in which to be seen. The owners also run a local night club - Le Rancho – opposite in the same street.

❱ La Villa Finzy

56-58 Avenue de la Ganipote 17420 Saint-Palais-sur-Mer Tel : +33 (0)5 46 39 74 78 Open daily from 7pm to 2am.

This wine bar serves organic wine and stays open until 2 o’clock in the morning. If you’re feeling peckish late in the evening, why not drop in for a glass of wine with a plate of cheese, cold meats or oysters? They also serve dinner.

❱ ZE BAR

13 bis rue de la chaîne 17 000 La Rochelle Tel: +33 (05) 46 07 05 15

Open 5:00 p.m. – 2:00 a.m. Non-stop service.

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Look after your health. Drink moderately

❱

PRODUCTS OF THE TERROIR

The Cistercian monks who came to Île de Ré in the 12C quickly realised that the island’s different soil types, the inﬂuence of the Gulf Stream and

Served chilled at any time of year, this wonderfully refreshing beverage is most definitely worth sampling ! Another ﬂagship product is

❱ WINE LES VIGNERONS DE L ÎLE DE RÉ plentiful sunshine (more than 2,600 hours a year) combined to create the ideal conditions for growing vines. At present, the vines occupy 650 hectares (1,606 acres) of land mostly in the southern part of the island and produce 35 000 to 40 000 hectolitres of wine a year, approximately equivalent to two million bottles. The distinguishing feature of this vineyard area is that half is planted with white grape varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Colombard and Ungni Blanc while the other half is given over to black grape varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet, Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Négrette. All the island’s grape growers belong to the UNIRE cooperative, an amalgamation with the island’s other cooperative farmers (fruit & vegetable growers) dating from 2008. In recent years, much has been done to improve the quality of the wines produced and to the creation of some excellent “Vins de Pays”, including red, white and rosé “Soif d’Évasion” and “Ultimium 2007”. The cooperative’s signature product is nonetheless its white and rosé “Pineau Ilrhéa” (from Rhéa, the old name for Ré).

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“Rosé des Dunes”, a five-times prize winner in ten years. Grown on the island’s light, sandy soils, it makes a great accompaniment to fish and grills. The remainder of the production includes still white, red and rosé wines, white and rosé sparkling wines and cognacs. Mellow gold and white tea in colour with vanilla aromas, their “40°Sud” cognac is very good served chilled as an aperitif. After dinner, a lightly warmed, caramel-coloured “Gouverneur VSOP” would be ideal, while the 3-star “Gouverneur” can be used in cocktails or to ﬂambé shrimps, lobster, bananas and crêpes. “Île de Ré XO” and “Île de Ré Fine Island” have been specifically developed for the Maison Camus cognac firm. Winery visits can be arranged for groups at any time of year by priorarrangement, as well as in July and August at 10.30am and 3.30pm. Wine advisors and oenologists are available for advice and to organise tastings every day of the week. 

Route de Sainte-Marie 17580 Le Bois Plage Tel: +33 (0)5 46 09 23 09 Site : www.vigneronsiledere.com

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Products from the Poitou-Charentes region

Open seven days a week

Our biscuits

Galette Charentaise Broyé du Poitou Craquant caramel Craquant Pineau Croquant de l’estuaire Galipote d’Ardin Sablé Rétais Souvenir boxes

10:00 am to 8:00 pm Off-season 10:00 am to 12 noon 2:00 pm to 7:00 pm

Our fine foods

Seafoods – Soups Rillettes – Samphire Sea urchin coral Cream of abalone Oyster paté – Coypu paté Grillon Charentais Stuffed snails from Poitou Mustards - Oils

Our confectionery

Our wines

Pineau from Charentes Melon Pineau Cognac Caramel Liqueur Vins de Pays from Charente Wines from Haut-Poitou Local beers

Fleur de sel caramel bonbons Pineau caramel bonbons Cognac caramel bonbons Caramel cream bonbons Chocolate sardines Angelica from Niort Melon jam Liqueur bonbons

A VAST CHOICE OF REGIONAL FOODS ON MORE THAN 300 m2 Clothing

Decorations

Salt

Well-being

Jewellery

Opposite the Espace Encan Near the Aquarium 30 min free parking in the Encan car park

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Esprit du sel Health and beauty from the ocean We find the different presentations of the salt that is harvested and manufactured by Esprit du sel in their shops at Saint-Martin, the Phare des Baleines and in Ars: ﬂeur de sel, grey sea salt, fine salt, aromatic salt, samphire, condiments and marine combinations, including an amazing three-algae tea. Esprit du Sel products can be found in delicatessens and in the special ranges of supermarkets all along the Atlantic coast, and in Paris. Their Internet site has been overhauled and now includes two online payment options with national coverage. Esprit du Sel has also created a range of cosmetics with a very innovative concept: Bio Salines now comprises some ten products, the main stars being the Crème Douce and the masks. Their latest creation, the organic Les Jardins salés, has received Écocert certification and comprises salt and spices with organic herbs.

Esprit du Sel - Zone Artisanale - 1, Chemin des Gâtines - 17590 Ars-en-Ré - Tel: 05 46 29 64 89

❱

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Le Sel d’Isabelle in a few words Le Sel d’Isabelle was founded in 2005 by a salt worker’s daughter. For nearly two generations our family has made a point of respecting a unique savoir faire in order to produce high-quality, natural white salt. Don’t hesitate to drop in as you stroll about La Couarde. We are more than willing to share our passion for salt with you.

Producer

On sale in the boutique

- Fleur de sel - Coarse-grain white salt (natural) - Aromatic salts - Caramel - Gifts

Fleur de sel from the Ile de Ré… for grills – fleur de sel des copains - For fish – for salads – with espelette pimiento – for Christmas... And much more in the boutique... holidays n° 3.indd 30

1bis, rue de Levant 17670 La Couarde/Mer Ile de Ré Tel: 05 46 41 70 84 www.leseldisabelle.com

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Fromagerie Richard Lefort Goat heaven ! There is a cheese dairy at Loix on Île de Ré that is open to the public. Catherine and Richard Lefort own 200 goats, which have access to comfortable indoor stabling as well as outdoor yards where they can gambol and play because, in order for the cheese to be good, the goats need to be happy ! Much to the delight of most children, the dairy generally welcomes the public at milking times, when you will also be shown the different stages in the cheese-making process. They offer a range of cheeses at different stages of maturity, from fresh goat’s cheese, soft strained (cottage-type) cheese, some excellent hard and semi-hard cheeses and one or two made with “ﬂeur de sel” or pepper, to an ash-coated log and “tomme”. Their products are sold at market in Bois-Plage, Ars and Les Portes en Ré and served in good restaurants around the island.

Chemin du corps de garde - 17111 Loix - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 29 04 11

❱

OYSTERS : a treat for the tastebuds There are 15,000 small, family-run businesses producing oysters in Charente-Maritime. Oyster farming is a difficult profession that demands great efforts and is entirely subject to the right weather conditions. Oysters are effectively “raised” and it takes three years and many different handling operations before they can be farmed for eating. The last few months are the most important, when they are fattened and acquire their ultimate taste and texture. The flavour of an oyster depends on where and how it is fattened; very different qualities are thus obtained, reflected in the names given to the final product – “Fines”, “Fines de Claires” and “Spéciales”. “Fines” oysters are fattened at sea; “Fines de Claires” are fattened in clear water - that is, in old salt marshes where the clay-rich bottom imparts a certain hazelnut flavour. “Spéciales» are fattened in the marshes with particular attention given to providing them with copious amounts of food, giving them a dense flesh of outstanding quality. Whenever you are out and about on the islands of Ré and Oléron, you will find many places for making an impromptu stop to taste oysters, often served with a glass of local white wine. Alternatively of course, you can order them in many of the region’s restaurants.

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Jams & Preserves The flavours of times past If you happen to be in the vicinity of Ars-en-Ré, it is most definitely worth dropping in on Françoise Héraudeau. With help from her family, she makes delicious jams and preserves - all free from preservatives and chemical substances - from fruit and vegetables grown in the orchards. She has a huge choice of flavours; among our favourites are her woodland strawberry, melon with “Pineau”, blackcurrant with seedless redcurrant, wild fig and a typically local jam made with hollyhock petals. She also stocks jellies, some with “Pineau”, as well as her “Herbiers du Clocher” range of herbal teas, made with flowers and plants known to have medicinal and dietetic virtues. You may also like to try her preserves, such as tomato & marsh samphire or sweet fig & spices, which will enhance the flavour of cold meats or chicken and completely transform your meals. Last year, she added a range of cordials for mixing cocktails or simply for adding to water. Her lemony elderflower cordial even won a prize in the regional “Concours des Saveurs” competition in 2009. Besides all this, she also sells her youngest son’s creation - crystallised fruit jellies, making this a veritable paradise for any epicurean palate. Françoise will serve you with her legendary good humour and tell you about Île de Ré as she advises you about her products.

Les Confitures du Clocher - 1 Chemin des Palissiats - 17590 Ars-en-Ré Tel: +33 (0)5 46 29 41 35 - www.les-confitures-du-clocher.com

❱

Comptoir Charentais This amazing space brings together and presents all the products of the Poitou-Charentes terroir. Alexandre Tramicheck brought new life to this old industrial site situated across from the Encan. He availed of the elegant architecture to create small worlds devoted to well-being, decor, wines and spirits, gourmet products, jewellery and some organic products. The space itself is enormous, offering thousands of items, but the way it has been structured and decorated with magnificent, gigantic black lamps makes it a friendly place to stroll and browse, offering oodles of ideas for gifts and souvenirs. We can find charming boxes in the shape of stones that have been rolled by the sea, cognac and ﬂeur de sel from the Ile de Ré, mustard and pâté from Charente, tasty munchies from regional biscuit manufacturers, even lamps made from driftwood. The unusual and highly original way of presenting local products is very successful, making this space

well worth a visit. At the entrance, the highlight of the presentation, is a real boat that Alexandre saved from destruction. In fact the whole place is a reﬂection of its creator, Alexandre. Not only does he have original ideas, he also loves this region where he first saw the light of day.

Le Comptoir Charentais - 119 quai Louis Prunier 17000 La Rochelle - Tel. +33 (0)5 46 31 33 26

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Coopérative des Sauniers de l’île de Ré Route de la Prée 17590 Ars-en-Ré Tel: +33 (0)5 46 29 40 27 www.sel-de-mer.com

❱ SALT MARSHES Once again, it was the monks - although this time those from the powerful Abbaye de Saint-Michel-en-l’Herm - who were responsible for shaping the Île de Ré landscape. Until the Middle Ages, Île de Ré was made up of several smaller islands – Ré, the largest, which corresponded to the south of the present-day island, together with the islets of Ars and Loix. Over time, alluvial deposits filled the channels between them, paving the way for the creation of the first salt marshes. In the early 11C, Guillaume le Grand gave the islets of Loix and Ars to the monks who tended the marshes on the mainland. However, salt harvesting only really got going in the 15C, reaching its peak in the 19C, when the marshes covered

roughly 1,550 hectares (3,830 acres) - approximately 20% of the island’s area - and produced 30,000 tonnes of salt. From 1850 onwards, the railways made it easier for competitors to transport their salt, with the resulting collapse of Île de Ré salt prices. In the light of these difficulties, the island’s salt producers joined forces in 1942 to form the Coopérative des Sauniers de l’Île de Ré, based in Ars-en-Ré. In the last ten years or so, there has been somewhat of a revival of activity, which now occupies 460 hectares (1,137 acres), produces 2500 tonnes of salt and has enabled a number of young producers to set up in business. The storage, packing and sale of coarse, fine and seasoned salt, as well as the now worldfamous “ﬂeur de sel”, the very finest salt skimmed from the surface.  Photos © Incognito.fr

“White gold” in the salt marshes

❱ Visiting the salt marshes.

The salt marshes take your breath away with their unbelievable beauty. Because of the sky’s constantly changing reﬂections and light playing on the salt water, amateur and professional photographers alike spend hours trying to capture the slightest change. The marshes are also a haven for the local ﬂora and fauna. Jean-Michel Arnoult organises canoe trips starting from Loix that last two hours and provide a completely unique way of seeing the marshes.

Information : Absolument Canoë - Jean-Michel Arnault : Tel: +33 (0)6 08 31 44 01 Office de Tourisme - Place du Marché - 17111 Loix - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 29 07 91 holidays n° 3.indd 33

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N°3 JUILLET 2011

Maxime Pinard The Pinard family in the north canton of the Ile d’Oléron have been making wine since 1889. Their reputation is based on the quality of their vintages, they are passionate about wine-making and know how to combine traditional and modern techniques. They produce red and white pineau and an old pineau that is excellent with foie gras, young cognacs to drink as an aperitif, as well as old Napoleon and XO cognac, best as a digestif, not to mention their cocktails, fruit liqueurs and red, white and rosé vins de pays. Maxime Pinard recently added new additions to the list of Pinard specials: Oléron beer with cognac, or «NapOléron», and a Vodka made from local grapes. His products are distributed all over the island but if you have time you should pay him a visit. He will be only too pleased to take you around his vineyard and show you a video presenting the domain and its different products.

An inventive wine-grower and producer

Vignoble Les Alletières - 17840 La Brée les Bains - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 36 04 25

❱

Biscuiterie de Ré Tradition and authenticity are keywords when speaking of Daniel Vallégeas work. He took the Ré sablé (shortbread biscuit) added algae, and transformed it into a marine sablé that works well as an aperitif or dessert. The range of croquants or crunchy biscuits, almond-hazelnut and chocolate, has been extended to include a sunny croquant with orange and lemon zest and coconut. His boutique also offers old-style, pure-almond macaroons, south-west France pastries, the traditional Be d’Am, the Galette Charentaise, the Broyé and the chef’s special oven batches with lemon cakes and a sort of gingerbread. You can find these products directly at the La Biscuiterie de Ré boutique, in stores that sell regional products.

Zac des Clémorinants - La Noue Ste-Marie de Ré - Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 43 89 06

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Régie publicitaire

île de Ré - La Rochelle

COM

- ÉDITION N O I T A C I MUN

- RÉGIE

VÉNEME É E R I A T PUBLICI

19 av. Philippsburg - BP 43 - 17410 Saint-Martin de Ré Tél. 05 46 00 09 19 - rhea@rheamarketing.fr

3535

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N°3 JUILLET 2011

❱ THE

THE WINE

The Charente vins de pays came into existence in the 80s. Following a crisis caused by a drop in cognac sales, the vineyards turned their focus to wine production. The cognac crisis is over but wine production profited from the difficult period. The Charente vins de pays come from a geographical origin, limited solely to Charente and CharenteMaritime. To avail of this appellation, the wines must

THE COGNAC

The cognac vineyard stretching from CharenteMaritime to the Deux-Sèvres via Charente is one of the last great vineyards to still produce spirits, unlike the Bordeaux vineyards to the south. Six grand crus share this region. Beginning at the Atlantic coast, we have the Bons Bois cru, the Bois Ordinaires cru, along a line linking Saint-Jean d’Angély to Saintes we find the Fins Bois cru, with the Borderie cru in the region of Saintes, then in the region forming a triangle between Saintes, Jonzac and Cognac, the Petite Champagne cru and, lastly, around and to the south of Cognac, the Grand Champagne cru, which represents the holy of holies for this vineyard.

VINEYARDS OF

be made from the following grape varieties. Black varieties: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot Noir, Gamay and Pinot Noir. White varieties: Arriloba, Chardonnay, Chenin, Colombard, FolleBlanche, Muscadelle, Sauvignon, Semillon and Ugni Blanc. The white wines are dry and light, perfect for accompanying seafood. The rosé wines are fresh and fruity and go down well on all occasions. And the quality of the red wines has fortunately improved in recent years. The Charente vins de pays are produced by independent wine-growers and cooperatives scattered throughout the department. Wherever you happen to be in the department, the local tourism offices will be able to provide you with information concerning wine-growers who receive visitors for tasting sessions. 

some tips to help you through the forest of labels: Three stars or VS indicates that the cognac is at least two years old VSOP or Réserve means that it is at least four years old, but this category also includes ten and twelve year-old cognacs Vieille Réserve, Grande Réserve, Royal, Vieux, XO, Napoleon and Extra indicate that the cognac is at least six years old, but some can be up to 20 or 40 years old. 

Cognac is best enjoyed when already old. Here are

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Pineau des Charentes

Pineau des Charentes is best enjoyed chilled

CHARENTE

It makes a very pleasant aperitif but can also be served with melon, foie gras or goat’s cheese, all of which are produced in the Charente department. It is often said that local wines should be consumed with local products and this dictum holds true for all regions. Pineau is a liqueur wine that is regulated by an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) that imposes strict rules for production. There is no Pineau without cognac because it is produced in the region that is identified for cognac and obtained by mutage of the grape must with the help of cognac only. A liqueur wine is a «mutage» wine i.e. it is obtained by adding eau-de-vie to the grape must. Cognac is the eau-de-vie in our region. There are a great variety of pineaus: white and rosé (white pineau is aged in oak casks for at least 12 months and rosé for eight months); old pineau is aged for five years and very old for ten years. When you visit local wine-growers to taste their products you will quickly realize that there is not one but several pineaus and almost every producer’s pineau is unique. So don’t hesitate to visit several producers in different communes in the department. You will also learn that pineau is used in many dishes and pastries. 

Look after your health. Drink moderately

Le Sel d’Isabelle A family business Isabelle is both the daughter and granddaughter of salt workers. She opened her salt boutique in 2005 selling the same salt that her husband Jacqui harvests. They do everything themselves, from drying the salt to packaging it. Fleur de sel, aromatic salt with spices and aromatic herbs presented in charming little packages. She also offers toffees made with “her” ﬂeur de sel, as well as a range of other delicacies in her “gourmet section”, bonbons, jams and biscuits in pretty metal boxes or Ré baskets. Situated next to the cycle path, this boutique offers a wealth of presentations that make ideal gifts.

Le sel d’Isabelle - 1 bis, rue du Levant - 17670 La Couarde sur Mer - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 4170 84

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“Les Régalades”

The first early potatoes to appear are much in demand, such that the UNIRÉ cooperative society, together with the island’s community organisation and Île de Ré Tourisme, organises every year a two-day event - “Les Régalades” - to celebrate their arrival on the market. Throughout the event, local participating restaurants all propose one or more recipes using PDO “Pommes de Terre de l’île de Ré”. On the same occasion, it is also worth stopping at the cooperatives in Bois Plage en Ré and d’Ars-en-Ré, where other local produce and products are on offer, including salt, oysters, wine, cognac, beer and jam. Cycle rides through the fields, salt marshes and vineyards are available too.

Information and reservations : Île de Ré Tourisme - BP 39 3, rue Père Ignace - 17410 Saint-Martin de Ré - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 00 64 93

❱ ÎLE DE RÉ EARLY POTATOES Île de Ré produces an early potato the qualities of which were officially recognised in 1998, when it became the first potato to receive a French PDO (1) label. The island’s mild climate, generous amounts of sunshine, unique growing conditions and natural environment are responsible for the very special ﬂavour of this potato. To produce their 2,500 tonnes of precious tubers, 35 farmers cultivate 150 hectares (371 acres) by rotation within the 900-hectare (2,224 acres) PDO area. At one time, this attractive and delicious potato was the island’s only true cash crop besides barley. It was not until the island’s other early crops went into decline that any thought was given to its fate and it was decided to improve production methods by planting in the open ground, systematically monitoring dry matter content to ensure optimum taste and texture, and planting only in soils most likely to give the very best results. Its inimitable taste is regularly checked by an official tasting panel and monitored by the French PDO organisation, the Institut

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National des Appellations dOrigine et de la Qualité. To maintain their early-crop status, they must be harvested and sold before 31 July inclusive of the year of the harvest. There are two early-producing varieties, the first being the light yellow-ﬂeshed Alcmaria, which arrives on the markets from mid-April. It has an almost melt-in-the-mouth texture and is wonderful when steamed. This is followed by the Charlotte variety, available from mid-May to the end of June. Its firm, yellow ﬂesh means it can be cooked in a variety of ways… with a “raclette”, for example. New potatoes are more delicate than those intended for long storage and, to ensure they are at their best when eaten, should be kept in the dark and used at the most nine days after being picked and packed.  (1) PDO = “Protected Designation of Origin” European Union quality scheme

S.C.A. UNIRÉ Maraîchers de l’Île de Ré Route de Sainte-Marie 17580 Le Bois Plage en Ré Tel: +33 (0)5 46 09 23 09

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Charente-Maritime was already producing mustard seeds in the 19th century. And the city of La Rochelle is represented on an 1852 map of gastronomic products in the form of a mustard pot. Jerôme Dumoulin has perpetuated the tradition at Gourvillette since 1998. Having trained as a chef and pastry maker, he went on to develop a range of products that are typical of the region: mustards, oil, aromatic salt, jams and onion preserves. His talents have not gone unnoticed: in 1999 he won the «Saveur PoitouCharentes» accolade at the regional products competition with his curry mustard and cider vinegar with honey, and in 2008 the Chamber of Trades awarded him the title Master Mustard Maker. His products are available online but if you pay him a visit you will also discover his aromatic herb garden with more than 150 plants that he cultivates to aromatize his products, but also for the pleasure. www.moutarderiecharentaise.com

5 rue de l’ancienne bascule - 17490 Gourvillette (près de Matha) - Tel +33 (0)5 46 26 19 33

La Moutarderie Charentaise

❱

Les Délices de l’Estuaire If you ﬁnd yourself in this neck of Charente-Maritime, es Délices de l’Estuaire is a must. Alain Lococq has worked as a baker and pastry maker in different parts of the region for the last thirty-five years. Smitten by the charm of the estuary, he created a workshop for regional specialities that is unique in Charente-Maritime. We can observe him at work from outside, but visitors are also welcome inside. It is here that, day after day, he produces his Croquants de l’Estuaire, an update on an ancestral recipe, of which the Chail is a natural extension. The Chail is known in the region, though not much outside it. Its rustic exterior coated with crushed hazelnuts belies a melt-in-the-mouth heart of white chocolate ganache. The Gâtopineau is another of Alain’s creations: it combines the local pineau wine and grapes with a light pastry cake. The Gâtopineau was awarded the 2009 Mention Spéciale by the jury of the Poitou Charentes «Saveurs Régionales» competition.

Alain Lecoq - Les Délices de l’Estuaire - 17120 Talmont-sur-Gironde - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 96 31 44

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❱

LIFE ON THE ÎLE DE RÉ

N°3 JUILLET 2011

The great outdoors

❱ PEDAL POWER Île de Ré is known for being a cyclist’s paradise and, in summer, the humble bicycle has even become the main form of transport around the island.

More and more cycles tracks An increasing number of cycle tracks have been marked out over the years, so that they now cover some hundred kilometres in all. You can get a map that shows them from any of the island’s tourist offices. There’s no need to worry if you haven’t brought your own bike with you on holiday; there are plenty of hire places with a good selection of bikes to choose from (touring, sport, tandems, coupled adult-child tandems and tricycles). Even if you have very young children, you can still take them along as you can hire an adult bike with a fitting to tow a small carriage behind it. To fin a hirer, just ask at your hotel, campsite reception or in a tourist office.

Five main cycling itineraries Five main itineraries are indicated on the cycling maps : • The country route (13.9km) from SaintMartin to La Couarde via Le Bois-Plage • The coastal route (17.5km) from SaintMartin to Loix via La Couarde. • The historic route (22km) from Sablanceaux to Sainte-Marie via Rivedoux, La Flotte and Saint-Martin • The marsh route (18km) from La Couarde to Les Portes via Ars and Saint-Clément.

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Photos © Incognito.fr

• The forest route (10km) These five itineraries are basic circuits. Professional guide Josette Conesa, who has cycled the length and breadth of the island for a number of years, has tried and tested some more unusual circuits, which you can find described in “L’île de Ré à vélo” (1)

If, however, you have a mishap when out cycling, call 112, 18 (“pompiers” - fire brigade), 17 (“gendarmerie” - police) or 15 (“Samu” mobile emergency medical service). When you set off, be sure to know the alphanumerical code of the cycle track you are using; this will allow help to reach you more quickly and, if you cycle at night, don’t forget to use your lights and wear reﬂective clothing. 

(1) “L’île de Ré à vélo, 5 balades inédites”, Geste Editions – sold in local newsagent shops.

Safety ﬁrst To reduce the risk of accidents in summer, when there are many cyclists on the road, please be sure to abide by the highway code, preferably cycle in single file and keep to the right-hand side, as cycle tracks are for use in both directions. When in villages, please refrain from going the wrong way up one-way streets.

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❱ LILLEAU DES NIGES Occupying part of the Fier d’Ars, the Lilleau des Niges nature reserve is CharenteMaritime’s foremost wild bird sanctuary. Île de Ré stands at a migratory crossroads between Europe and North Africa; this is for a variety of reasons, including climate and the supply of food available to birds in the marshes. Many birds therefore stop on the island and a sanctuary was created for them on former marshes in 1980. There are two parts to the reserve – one of 121 hectares, to which access is forbidden at all times of year, the other of 115 hectares, to which access is strictly controlled. Constant maintenance of the sanctuary is necessary and provided by two associations – the Ligue pour la Protection des Oiseaux (LPO) and the Association de Sauvegarde des Sites des Portes-en-Ré (ASSIP). 320 species of birds (almost half of European species) have been sited stopping over on the island. In winter, you can admire brent geese, Eurasian curlews and Eurasian oystercatchers; in the spring, it is easier to spot pied avocets, black-winged stilts and common shelducks, of the Passeriforme order with feet adapted for perching.

Welcoming visitors to this fragile environment is a permanent concern for the site’s managers and the Maison du Fier was opened to heighten public awareness about the delicate balance of life for the birds in the reserve. This nature information centre has been set up in an old salt store, where there are exhibitions, video showings and interactive terminals on the ﬂora and fauna. Nature workshops for children and trips with eco-guides are also organised – booking is obligatory and such trips are organised for groups of no more than 20 people. It is best to contact the Maison du Fier beforehand as these outings depend on the life cycles of the birds : from September to midApril, high tide is the time for admiring the birds. From the end of April to July, the birds are nesting in the marshes and it is best to go early in the morning or in the evening. 

A paradise

for birds at

Portes-en-Ré

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Photos © LPO Lilleau des Niges

Maison du Fier Le Vieux Port - 17880 Les Portes en Ré Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 29 50 74

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WHERE TO PLAY GOLF IN CHARENTE-MARITIME ❱ AS Golfeurs Pays Rochefortais 1608 route Impériale 17450 Saint-Laurent de la Prée Tel: 33 +(0)5 46 84 56 36

❱ ASPF La Jarne

Route de Pique Fesse - 17220 La Jarne Tel: 33 +(0)5 46 56 61 04

❱ Golf de la Prée La Rochelle 17137 Marsilly Tel: 33 +(0)5 46 01 24 42 www.golﬂarochelle.com

❱ Golf Club de Montendre

Route de Honda - 17130 Montendre Tel: 33 +(0)5 46 49 40 31

❱ Golf Club d’Oléron

La Vieille Perrotine - 17310 Saint-Pierre Tel: 33 +(0)5 46 47 11 59

❱ Golf de Royan

Maine Gaudin - 17420 Saint Palais sur Mer Tel: 33 +(0)5 46 23 16 24 www.golfderoyan.com

❱ Golf de Saintonge

Fontcouverte - 17100 Saintes Tel: 33 +(0)5 46 74 27 61

❱ Golf de Trousse Chemise

Route de la Levée Verte - 17880 Les Portes en Ré Isle of Ré Tel: 33 +(0)5 46 29 69 37

❱ Golf du Château de la Vallade

Château de la Vallade - 17250 Saint Porchaire Tel: 33 +(0)5 46 94 23 54

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Photos © Incognito.fr

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ANCIENT BUILDINGS

❱ CHÂTELIERS ABBEY Devastated by the Norman incursions from noble birth lived separately from the lay browhich it recovered slowly, it wasn’t until the thers, the poor peasant monks ! As it stands arrival of the Cistercian monks who founnow, this is a magnificent and unbelievably ded the abbey of Notreromantic spot. The MaiDame-des-Châteliers son du Platin in La Flotte (better known these days contains displays of objects For guided tours, as the Abbaye des Châtefound during excavations contact the Maison du Platin liers) in 1152 that Île de at the abbey.  Ré began to develop its 4 cours Félix Faure in La Flotte principal commercial acTel: +33 (0)5 46 09 61 39 tivities, namely salt and wine. Under the leadership of Isaac de l’Étoile, who was forced to leave his monastery because of Henri II (Henry Plantagenet) and came to settle at Le Breuil du Chastelier, the Cistercian monks, who placed great importance on manual labour, contributed greatly to the island’s economic development with vine growing, cereal and vegetable farming, fishing, hunting, soil improvement and the harnessing of water resources whilst at the same time re-shaping the landscape. Originally built in Romanesque style in the 12C and restored in the Gothic style in the 15C after being damaged during the English invasions, the buildings were again destroyed during the Wars of Religion and the monks abandoned the abbey in 1575. Although the buildings are damaged, it is still possible to imagine what the abbey was like at the height of its power, when monks of

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N°3 JUILLET 2011

❱ THE CHURCH IN SAINT-MARTIN DE RÉ

Built in the 11C or 12C, not much remains of the original Romanesque building because Saint-Martin-de-Ré’s church has suffered greatly from all manner of afﬂictions, including hostilities between the French and English, Catholics and Protestants, the Anglo-Dutch bombardments and the French Revolution. It was rebuilt a number of times, only to see its tower collapse in 1774. A decision was then made to completely change the orientation of the choir. Rebuilt in the 18C and 19C, this church thus bears many scars from the past. The oldest parts date back to the 15C and its square tower, characteristic of the fortified churches of

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the Aunis and Saintonge provinces, is reminiscent of English churches. The interior is interesting with an altar of Byzantine inspiration and a monument to a group of nonjuring priests who were deported between 1798 and 1801. It is possible, and even recommended, to climb the tower (117 steps) because the view from the top is absolutely superb. As you go up, you can admire the three bells that ring out over Saint-Martin : Marie-Thérèse which rings in D, Charles Catherine which rings in E and Marie Pierre Michel Samuel which rings in F !  Church of Saint-Martin de Ré open all year for unguided visits.

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Photos © Incognito.fr

❱ A TOWN FORTIFIED BY VAUBAN From the sky, Saint-Martin looks like a star, which is a characteristic sign of Vauban’s fortifications. But, who was this man Vauban ? Sébastien Le Prestre, the marquess of Vauban (1633-1707) was a remarkable man of many talents who was an engineer, military architect, town planner, hydraulic engineer and essayist. Vauban protected France with a series of citadels which, apart from Lille, resisted assault throughout Louis XIV’s reign. With subsequent improvements in the principles and methods of artillery fire, the citadels became obsolete; their role had consisted of mobilising large numbers of the adversary’s forces but they were not unassailable. Twelve of Vauban’s fortified buildings have been listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites, including Saint-Martin-de-Ré in 2008. Saint-Martin’s first fortress was built in 1627. In 1674, Vauban chose the site of Saint-Martin to build his citadel because of its central location on the island and because there was already a fortress there. in 1681, he re-used

the site to build a citadel with wide town walls to protect the inhabitants and their livestock in the event of an enemy invasion and to protect the harbour.

PPING

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Work continued until 1684. It is now considered to be the finest example of anisland stronghold. 

For guided tours of the fortifications, contact : Office de Tourisme de Saint-Martin, 2 quai Nicolas Baudin, 17410 Saint-Martin de Ré Tel: +33 (0)5 46 09 20 06

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N°3 JUILLET 2011

❱ LE PHARE DES BALEINES

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a lighthouse and beacon museum was set up in the former lighthouse keepers’ school building at the foot of the old tower. 

Le Phare des Baleines at the tip of the island on the road from Saint-Clément des Baleines to Les Portes Tel: +33 (0)5 46 29 18 23

Photos © Incognito.fr

With Cordouan and Chassiron (Île d’Oléron), the Phare des Baleines (lighthouse of the whales), standing at the western tip of Île de Ré, is one of the three oldest lighthouses in France. Dating from 1682, it was built at a time when Colbert was developing the port of Rochefort and working on the defence of the king’s navy in the entire area stretching as far as Brittany. The tip of the island was already known as the Pointe des Baleines in the 17C because of the number of cetaceans found stranded there. The present lighthouse, which replaced the original one built in 1682 and which can still be seen behind, dates from 1849. 57 metres in height, it has a beautiful, 257-step spiral staircase made of blue granite from Kersanton. It was equipped with electricity in 1882 and a radio beacon in 1928. Now semi-automatic, it ﬂashes four times every 15 seconds and can be seen up to 27 nautical miles away. From the top of its platform, the view of the Vendée coastline, the islands of Aix and Oléron and Fort-Boyard is absolutely stunning when the weather is good. It can’t be visited at night but, if you’re in the area, stop a while under the beams of light that silently sweep the sky and you’ll experience an impression of eternity. In 2007,

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CULTURAL AND ARTISTIC LIFE

Musee Ernest Cognacq Ernest-Cognacq and Hôtel de Clerjotte

The Hôtel de Clerjotte is in fact home to the Ernest Cognacq museum, Hôtel de Clerjotte is a 16C stately home inspired by the Renaissance style. Recently, a new wing was added and the gardens rehabilitated. The building, was listed as an historic monument in 1929 and is well worth a visit, all the more so at the moment because of an exhibition that is remarkable as much for the quality of the objects on display as for the scenography, the subject of which is the isle of Ré, and its inhabitants since Neolithic considered throught five major themes.

13 avenue Victor Bouthillier - 17410 Saint-Martin-de-Ré - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 09 21 22

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Écomusée du Marais Salant The salt marsh ecomuseum

In an outstanding location to the north of Île de Ré at Loix is an ecomuseum devoted to the salt marshes that is open to the public all year. After visiting the exhibition depicting the history of the salt marshes and the methods of producing salt, a guide uses a model to explain the hydraulic process at work and takes visitors out into the marshes where they can see salt harvesting and preparatory work in the marshes as well as admirng the ﬂora. Fleur de sel (surface-skimmed premium-quality sea salt), marsh samphire (salicornia) and books on salt production and harvesting are on sale in the museum. © AlphaStudio

17111 Loix - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 29 06 77 - www.marais-salant.com

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La Maison du Platin This place is devoted to island and maritime life on Ré in the 19C and 20C and to the folk and maritime traditions of La Flotte and the villages in and around the straits of Île de Ré. Worth noting is the Nemours-Bonin collection, named after a photographer(1873-1956) who lived in La Flotte and left a large number of photos depicting local life and folklore.

4, cours Félix Faure - 17630 La Flotte - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 09 61 39

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❱ ATELIER QUILLET A treasure trove of old books Situated in the craft village of Loix, Atelier Quillet decided to open to the public from the 2010 Easter holidays in order to promote its expertise in restoring and hand-binding old books and documents. Such highly specialised skills are becoming increasingly rare and, of the 2,000 bookbinders in activity in 1987, there are now fewer than 450. Only three of these workshops, including Atelier Quillet, which was designated a ‘living heritage company’ (“Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant”) in 2007, are of national importance. Atelier Quillet has over twenty years’ experience in this domain and employs thirty or so specialists in binding, restoration and gilding. Guided tours are available by prior arrangement on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday at 2pm and 3.15pm. These times correspond to the most interesting periods of activity from the point of view of novices to the activity. The cost is €3 per person, or €2 per person as part of a group of at least 15 people.

Lionel Quillet presents an ancient map. travel log or for sketches, it will be available in different sizes, bound in premium-quality cloth or leather and personalised using a bookbinder’s brass. Prices : from €5 to €15, depending on the size and type of binding. The bookshop, which has been completely reorganised and modernised, displays and sells old books and documents as well as some very beautiful types of paper, including some rare Japanese paper from a special source. 

Village Artisanal 7 Chemin du Corps de Garde, 17111 Loix-en-Ré Tel : +33 (0)5 46 29 04 25

The company is simultaneously launching a premium-quality souvenir product which will be entirely made by hand in the workshop. Perfect for writing notes and memos, as a

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Life in Charente-Maritime ❱ LA ROCHELLE The city of La Rochelle did not really ﬂourish until the 12th century, thanks mainly to the fact that Chatelaillon fell to the dukes of Aquitaine in 1131. It obtained its charter as a commune, which freed it from all forms of feudal protection. At about the same time, with the vineyards being developed by the Cistercian and Cluny monks, the people of La Rochelle became sailors in order to deliver their products to the North of Europe. They were thus exposed to the ideas of the Reformation. Huguenots progressively began to settle there and developed maritime trade. Louis XIV did not appreciate the growing power of La Rochelle and sent a governor to keep law and order. The citizens were offended by this gesture and this led to the first siege of La Rochelle in 1572, which was less murderous than the next siege in 1628, which lasted more than a year and saw some 20,000 die of hunger. It took La Rochelle some time to recover. A considerable share of its population preferred to emigrate rather than convert to Catholicism. Slowly the city began to rise from its ruins, Vauban fortified it and it prospered from the triangular trade of slaves and the fur trade with Canada. It experienced a veritable boom all through the 18th century, with the construction of private residences that we can still admire in the city centre. However, the ban on slave trading caused it to decline and the city

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did not prosper again until the early 20th century, with the construction of a port capable of receiving trawlers with a large capacity or tonnage. It developed its fishing activities and created the largest marina in Europe at Les Minimes. In the last thirty years the city has hosted major events like Le Grand Pavois boat show in September and the Francofolies in July, which have made the city a major regional attraction. There is no shortage of cultural attractions, with many museums and lots of cultural events in season. Go for a stroll through the city centre and soak up the architecture and spirit of the city, then pass under the great clock to the port where many restaurants await you. Before you do anything else, be sure to visit the Office de Tourisme where you can learn about the different types of passes for public transport and which entitle you to preferential rates in the museums. 

Office de Tourisme de la Rochelle 2 quai Georges Simenon 17000 La Rochelle Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 31 71 71

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N°3 JUILLET 2011

❱ THE QUARTIERS In La Rochelle there are quartiers with different atmospheres where you have to walk with your eyes looking upward to admire the architecture and soak up the city’s past. This is the case for the districts described below.

The old market quartier La Rochelle’s current covered market was built in 1836 after the municipality had spent two centuries wondering where to locate it. There is a market in the halle every day and twice a week, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, traders set up stands in the neighbouring streets. This is one of the oldest parts of La Rochelle and if you examine the houses around the halle, you will realize that they date back to the Middle Ages with their half-timbering and slates. The small streets leading away from the market place have come to life in the last decade with excellent little restaurants and fashionable clothes or décor boutiques. You will find boutiques scattered all along the rue des Merciers or the rue Saint-Yon leading to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville (an absolute must). Here you are in La Rochelle’ golden triangle. If you take the rue du Temple, a pedestrian street where the Knights Templars settled in rich residences in the 12th century, it will lead you to the Porte de la Grosse-Horloge where you will find typical La Rochelle arcades that protected the good bourgeoisie of the 18th century from the rain !

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The old port

Across from you, the three towers of La Rochelle : the Saint Nicolas tower, the Lanterne tower and the Tour de la Chaîne guard the entrance to the port. The Tour de la Chaîne, whose name derives from the chain that was pulled to prevent boats from entering the port, has a permanent La Rochelle-Quebec exhibition in honour of Samuel Champlain, born in Brouage, who founded the city of Quebec in 1608. If you follow the Cour des Dames you will find restaurants side by side offering seafood, mussels and French fries, and fish at a very fair price. At the end of the Cour des Dames you will find the rue Saint-Jean du Perrot, which is entirely devoted to restaurants, some of them very good, with nonetheless a North African grocery that stays open until midnight. Opposite you, on the other side of the harbour, which you can reach by boat with the electric passeur that takes you across the channel for the modest sum of €0.60 (leaving from the quay at the end of the Cour des Dames and which accepts bicycles), is the Ville-en-bois, the Gabut, the old fishing district that was renovated in 1989 and whose wooden houses are remi-

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niscent of San Francisco’s piers. The many terraces of the cafés and little restaurants installed outdoors in the shade of the trees afford a fine view of the harbour.

seat in the sun at Bruno’s and Julie’s (La Solette Café) for a coffee (or more – it’s a great place for a friendly lunch) and learn all you want to know about the quartier.

Le quartier Saint-Nicolas

Les Minimes Marina

bert’s and the Cave de la Guignette, much appreciated by young people as a «before» bar ! The Bohemian life can be found in these few streets with their architecture that is very different from old La Rochelle, particularly the absence of arcades. Several galleries exhibit artists, secondhand booksellers display old books and the fashionable boutiques have their share of surprises in store. At 31 rue Saint Nicolas you will find Terre et Vendanges, run by a discerning wine merchant who knows how to find excellent little estate wines at an interesting price. When you reach the Place de la Solette, take a

bus from the vieux port (departure next to the electric passeur). It’s about a twenty-minute ride.

This old fishing district is much appreciated by the people of La Rochelle, particularly the young. The nightlife here is lively, with many bars, including one Irish pub, The General Hum-

At the extreme tip of La Rochelle, after the universities and the Lycée Hotelier, is the largest marina in Europe : 3,200 berths at the moment and another 1000 in 2011. To get there, take the sea

Parks

La Rochelle has many green spaces, the largest being the Parc Charruyer, now in the centre of the city, where the old ramparts used to stand. It is one of the places to visit in season. People go there for their morning run, to cycle on the cycle paths, for picnics with the kids or just for a stroll and a breath of fresh air. It is both literally and metaphorically, the lung of La Rochelle. 

Offbeat night walks round La Rochelle

Les Rondes de nuit (the night watches) are an interesting way to discover the old city of La Rochelle. Every Thursday from June 17 to September 16, set out at nightfall in the footsteps of a night watchman who will show you a selection of offbeat places not usually open to the public as he recounts the history of the city. The route is punctuated with historical characters dressed in period costumes. Departure at 8 : 30 p.m. – 9 : 00 p.m. or 9 : 30 p.m. except Thursday July 15 on the occasion of the Francofolies festival. There are a limited number of places so it is essential to reserve in advance.

Office de Tourisme - 2 quai Georges Simenon - 17000 La Rochelle Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 41 14 68 - www.larochelle-tourisme.com

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The Ocean in the heart of the city

N°3 JUILLET 2011

The La Rochelle aquarium is located near the vieux port. A whopping 8,045m2, it exhibits more than 10,000 animals from 500 different species in over 3,000m3 of water, of which 1,500m3 are for the shark basin. More than 900,000 visitors each year. The aquarium belongs to the Coutant group and is the largest in France and one of the largest private aquariums in Europe. It consists of different spaces, each with its own atmosphere : Atlantic, Mediterrean, Indo-Pacific, Caribbean, lagoon and tropical. The layout of the entrance reminds us of Jules Verne’s Captain Nemo’s famous submarine and the exit necessarily takes us through the tall tropical hothouse. The restaurant at the top of the aquarium building has a spectacular view of La Rochelle harbour and also overlooks the tropical hothouse. The ground ﬂoor bookshop has a range of interesting videos organized around everyday life in the aquarium, how the animals are fed and cared for, and the general maintenance of the aquarium. Aquarium - Bassin des Grands Yachts - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 34 00 00

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Musée Maritime The Maritime Museum consists of three boats moored at the quay : the France 1, a meteorological frigate; L’Angoumois, a stern trawler, and the Saint Gilles, a tug. The France 1 was transformed into a museum when it came to the end of its career. The visit takes you from the engine room to the bridge while many meteorologists and scientists continue to work. In season you can admire the view while eating or drinking on the deck. L’Angoumois introduces you to life on board this trawler that sailed on 12-day trips where the work of the sailors was dictated by the trawl.

Quai Sénac de Meilhan - Bassin des Chalutiers - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 28 03 00

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Museum d’Histoire Naturelle The museum reopened in October 2007 after a series of renovations lasting ten years. In an exhibition area of 2300m2 you will discover zoology, botany, geology, ethnography and archaeology with the help of 10,000 precious testaments to biodiversity and cultural diversity. In the zoology gallery you can see the famous giraffe Zarafa, a gift from the Egyptian Pasha Mehmet Ali to King Charles X in 1826 and the first giraffe to tread on French soil. A new interior design retains all the charm and beauty of the 300-year-old edifice. After visiting the museum buildings, take a stroll through the Jardin des Plantes, or botanical gardens, amidst vegetal species from the four corners of the world.

28 rue Albert 1er - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 41 18 25

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A magical world for young and old Side by side in the Ville-en-bois, two very successful museums to charm young and old a like : the first is devoted to automatons and the second to scale models of trains, trucks and cars.

Musée des Automates More than 300 automatons with impeccable costumes, the oldest, like «les clowns mains à mains» or «l’acrobate au chapeau» dating back to 1890, others like the «joueur de vielle» to 1900, 1905 for «la coquette», and, old but with no precise date : «le fumeur de Narguilé». Historical characters and advertising figures, animated shop windows destined to attract the public or created for big stores at Christmas, they are all different, yet we never tire of watching them go through their routines. Another great attraction in this museum is the reconstitution of a Montmartre quartier at the beginning of the 20th century, through which we wander as we watch the overhead metro pass. A total success !

Musée des Modèles réduits

Is every bit as fascinating as its neighbour but with an added attraction for children : a little train that conveys them round the museum building at regular intervals. Here we find models of legendary cars like the Rolls Royce Torpedo Phantom II built for the Rajkot Maharajah in 1934. All the scale models, whether cars, trucks, trains or boats, are faithful reproductions of the originals. Complete train circuits are installed and run in the midst of the visitors. Several times each day a son et lumière show recounts the history of sailing with naval battles. 12 and 14 rue de la Désirée - 17000 La Rochelle -Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 41 68 08

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■ asbury

LA ROCHELLE E DE RÉ ILE

Porto

Tél. +33 (0)5 46 42 86 70 www.larochelle.aeroport.fr holidays n° 3.indd 56

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La Rochelle’s art and history museums Musée Nouveau du Nouveau Monde Situated in a magnificent 18th century mansion, this museum’s collections illustrate Franco-American relations from the 16th century onward. As an important port, La Rochelle played a major role in trade and emigration to the New World. The collections evoke Canada, Louisiana, the West Indies and Guyana and many testimonies shed light on slavery and the triangular trade.

10 rue Fleuriau - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 41 46 50

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Musée d’Orbigny-Bernon This museum focuses on the main events in local history, particularly the famous sieges (1573, 1627-1628), and the Second World War. A superb collection of earthenware and porcelain, one of the finest in France, and an exhibition of Far Eastern art complete the interest of this museum.

57 2 rue Saint-Côme - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 41 18 83

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Musée des Beaux-Arts Located on the second ﬂoor of the Hotel de Crussol d’Uzès, a former archbishop’s palace, the museum presents a panorama of European painting from the 15th to the mid 20th century. The 19th century is represented with canvases by Camille Corot, Gustave Doré and artists from the region, like Eugène Fromentin and William Bouguereau. The 20th century is illustrated with works by Marquet, Denis Chaissac and Magnelli.

28 rue Gargoulleau - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 41 64 65

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Musées d’Art et d’Histoire de La Rochelle. Copyright : Julien Chauvet

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The La Rochelle casino is located in a 19th century building on La Rochelle’s most beautiful avenue in an elegant residential neighbourhood.

Look after your health. Drink moderately

❱ THE CASINO BARRIÈRE IN LA ROCHELLE The games room is equipped with 160 slot machines and table games: a roulette table, two blackjack tables, two Texas Hold’em tables and a table for La Boule. No admission under the age of 18. Passport or valid ID required. The casino organizes «discovery days» on Sundays, about every two months, with a free «discovery buffet» at 1:00 p.m. and poker tournaments. The «Le Bellevue» restaurant has to be the most charming part of the casino with large bay windows and an extraordinary terrace with a panoramic view of La Rochelle’s old harbour with, in the distance, the Port des Minimes and its yachts. If you fancy a ﬂutter in the casino, don’t hesitate to avail of the summer evenings to dine on the terrace. July 14th, Bastille Day, is a

special evening. You can admire the fireworks display in the bay from the terrace as you dine. The cooking is refined and affordable (starter + main dish + dessert = €16), with traditional French dishes each month and gastronomy weeks during the year, like the lobster week in June. The casino bar, the «Café des Sports», is a good place to have a drink and view major sporting events on the giant screens. And as the La Rochelle stadium is a casino partner, all matches played there are also retransmitted on the screens. The casino also offers a variety of different forms of entertainment in «Le Diane’s» auditorium with tea dance evenings, music, theatre and lotteries. In early July it is one of the locations for the Francofolies Festival (July 12-16, 2011). 

CASINO BARRIÈRE LA ROCHELLE Esplanade du Mail 17000 La Rochelle Tel: +33 (0)5 46 34 12 75 casinolarochelle@lucienbarriere.com www.casino-larochelle.com

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L’Hermione

In 1997 a group of passionate enthusiasts set about reconstructing the frigate L’Hermione, on which La Fayette set sail on March 21, 1780, to help the American insurrectionists during the American war of independence. They reconstructed the boat in the old maritime arsenal exactly the same as the original and in full view of the public because most of their funds came from visits to the site and articles sold in the shop. This reconstruction lent new life to disappearing skills and trades and certain workshops and stands are open to visitors to the site. The ultimate goal is to sail across the Atlantic in the wake of La Fayette.

Chantier de l’Hermione à la Corderie Royale

❱

La Mer à l’encre : three centuries of maritime maps Map of the isle of Ré and Oléron by Jacques-Nicolas Bellin 1757 - photo du CIM de Rochefort

The Centre International de la Mer at La Corderie Royale at Rochefort is devoting its latest exhibition to marine maps from the 16th to the 18th century. We know that these maps were used by the great and powerful but very little by sailors, who sailed without the help of maps. The whole exhibition presents a confrontation between cartographic symbolisation on the one hand and the actual practice of sailing and navigating on the other. The difference between the two could be considerable and the art of navigating was largely a matter of ﬂair. The exhibition breaks down into three main parts : a presentation of the extraordinary cartographic production of Normandy ports (Dieppe, Honﬂeur, Rouen), a central part devoted to the great cartographic work Le Neptune François (1693 – 29 maps of coastlines from Norway to Gibraltar), the result of the state enterprise instigated by Colbert. Lastly, the projection of a video dramatization places visitors on the deck of a ship in the midst of a dispute between an 18th century cartographer and an anxious captain who is confronted with very real obstacles. La mer à l’encre : the exhibition runs until December 31, 2011

La Corderie Royale - rue Jean-Baptiste Audebert - 17300 Rochefort - Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 87 01 91

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❱ ROCHEFORT In about 1660 Louis XIV noticed that the French navy was falling into disrepair and promptly ordered Colbert to find a location on the Atlantic coast capable of accommodating an arsenal (or shipyard). The village of Rochefort was selected in 1665 and a military arsenal was installed there for the western fleet. The arsenal included warehouses and workshops and the Corderie Royale – or Royal Rope Factory – naturally came to be built there. The town then developed rapidly under the influence of Colbert and Michel Bégon (cf. the Begonia Conservatory), who enhanced the town, improved the living conditions and gave it the face and architecture we know today. The arsenal closed in 1926, causing the decline of Rochefort. But the town soon found a new vocation and was recognized as a «City of Art and History» in 1993. The natural and cultural heritage of the naval arsenal have caused it to apply to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. La Corderie Royale – or Royal Rope Factory is one of the most important buildings in the arsenal (or shipyard). The construction was difficult because of soggy ground subject to flooding.

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Before even commencing construction the architect, François Blondel, had a sort of ﬂoating raft constructed, a plateau consisting of oak beams that were sunk through the water table. The 374-m-long building was used to manufacture ropes and rigging for the ﬂeet. The external architecture has all the elegance of the period. The inside, however, has the simplicity of a functional construction that is long enough to enable the manufacture of a cable (about 200 m) in one unbroken length! The closure of the arsenal in 1926 led to the progressive abandonment of the rope factory which, to further compound its dereliction, was burned in 1944 by the occupying forces as they left the town. Admiral Dupont organized the cleaning of the corderie in 1964 and it was declared a national historic monument in 1967. Today the building houses different bodies like the Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Saintonge. It has exhibition areas explaining how ropes are made and a space for temporary exhibitions (hand held audio guides in english are available free of charge). 

La Corderie Royale rue Jean-Baptiste Audebert, 17300 Rochefort Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 87 01 90

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to w ar ds

Pa ris

❱ MAP OF THE CHARENTE-MARITIME

towards ux

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Bordea

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❱ THE ÎLE D’AIX The Ile d’Aix is a very small island, scarcely a half kilometer wide by three kilometers long. A fort at each end, a few streets, ramparts that remind us of the island’s military past and of course a profusion of hollyhocks. It is a real island, with no bridge linking it to the mainland. This is what gives it its charm. To get there, take a boat from the Fumée pier at Fouras. The trip takes about twenty minutes. There are also slightly longer passages if you sail from La Rochelle or the Ile d’Oléron. The island became famous thanks to Napoleon and it still has a Napoleon, an African and a Nacre museum. But the atmosphere is what makes this island special. We really only discover it when the last tourists have taken their boat back to the continent, leaving the island in silence and peace. And it was precisely because they believed in its great potential that Martine and Noël Bourdet, when invited by the «Société des amis de l’île d’Aix», decided to save the old governor’s house with its classic architecture from oblivion, now the Hotel Napoléon. The result is nothing short of amazing. The elegant and refined rooms afford incomparable views of the harbour, Fort Boyard and the Pertuis between Ré and Aix, and are equipped with all modern conveniences. The hotel restaurant is called Chez Joséphine, which is only

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63 Hôtel Napoléon Chez Joséphine restaurant rue Gourgaud - 17123 Île d’Aix Tel. +33 (0)5 46 84 00 77 contact@hotel-ile-aix.com proper in the Hotel Napoléon. The chef, JeanNoël, offers light and simple lunchtime dishes for tourists who are relatively pressed for time, with mixed salads, seafood dishes and mussels. The evening carte is more classic, with more elaborate dishes that invite us to take the time to savour them in this very special evening atmosphere where time seems to stop. A not-to-be-missed stopover. 

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❱ THE ÎLE D’OLÉRON The Ile d’Oléron, which has not always been an island, is now linked to the continent by a bridge that has been toolfree since 1966. Although Oléron is geographically close to the Ile de Ré, its history is somewhat different. Life on the island was relatively peaceful until Eleanor of Aquitaine married the Plantagenet Henry II of England. Vineyards and salt were its main source of revenue. Eleanor fostered the economic development of the island. She drafted the «Roles of Oléron», a code of maritime law that was to act as the basis for all later codes. Later, the creation of the military port at Rochefort in 1666 transformed the island into a defence outpost and the Chateau d’Oléron became a citadel. Then, in the 16th century, it suffered

the ravages of the wars of religion. Finally, its advanced position interested the Germans during World War II and they occupied the island. Today the island enjoys a lot of sunshine, boasts superb beaches and offers a wealth of possibilities for water sports. 

Maison du Tourisme de l’île d’Oléron et du Bassin de Marennes, route du Viaduc 17560 Bourcefranc-le-Chapus Tel: +33 (0)5 46 85 65 23 ile-oleron-marennes.com

The Château d’Oléron

This old fishing port owes its name to the medieval chateau positioned on this side of the island. Its strategic importance has always been obvious to all, from Richelieu, who built a citadel, to Louis XIV, who ordered his military architect, Vauban, to consolidate the defence system, and the Germans. Of interest are the 17th century centre and the remains of the fortified walls. The old oyster-growers’ cabins in the harbour have been renovated and made available to local art and craft workers. Office de Tourisme - 1 Place de la République - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 47 60 51 - www.ot-château-oleron.fr

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La Cotinière

What seems to be a charming little port is in fact the leading fishing port in the department. At La Cotinière harbour we find fish, a variety of shellfish (more than 90 species) and, especially, depending on the season, sole, bass, ceterach, monkfish, langoustines and scallops. It is still a picturesque port with brightly coloured trawlers and gillnetters by the quais. Open from Easter to mid-September (for the offseason, contact Saint-Pierre d’Oléron)

Office de tourisme - place du Marché 17310 La Cotinière Tel: +33 (0)5 46 47 09 08

Le Musée de l’île d’Oléron

The museum of Oléron presents the history of the island from prehistory to the present day. A series of entertaining activities enables us to discover life on the island. Contact the museum for opening times.

9 Place Gambetta 17310 Saint-Pierre d’Oléron Tel: +33 (0)5 46 75 05 16

Saint-Pierre d’Oléron

The geographical and administrative centre of the island. A pleasant little town with pedestrian shopping streets.

Office de Tourisme - Place Gambetta 17310 Saint-Pierre d’Oléron Tel: +33 (0)5 46 47 11 39

La Maison des Aïeules

This is the house where Julien Viaud, alias Pierre Loti (cf Rochefort, Pierre Loti’s house) spent his holidays in the home of his grandparents and grand aunts. It is here that his body rests. In accordance with his wishes, the house is not open to the public, except on National Heritage days in September.

13 rue Pierre Loti 17310 Saint-Pierre d’Oléron

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Le P’tit Train de Saint-Trojan

The little train leaves the Saint-Trojan station on the south of the island every day to serve the southern beaches. The P’tit Train takes you on a 12-km round-trip tour of the wilder limits of the Pertuis de Maumusson with its magnificent landscapes of fine sand and pine forests that are inaccessible by road. Every summer, in July and August, the P’tit Train also offers «sunset train rides». In 2011 it will run from 3 April to 2 October. www.le-ptit-train.com

The Chassiron lighthouse and museum

The 46 m-high Chassiron lighthouse at the northern extremity of the island was built

in 1836 on the site of an old fire tower. It is marked with black and white bands to distinguish it from the Baleines lighthouse on the Ile de Ré. It can be seen by day from distances of up to 35 km, and 52 km by night. The top platform of the lighthouse affords a magnificent panorama but you have to climb 224 steps to get there. A museum that illustrates aspects of island life in the 50s has just been added.

Saint-Denis-D’Oléron

This much-frequented seaside resort on the north of the island has three long beaches with fine sand and a recently refurbished marina. The Romanesque church of Saint Denis has been modified many times in the course of history but it still retains its remarkable Romanesque entrance. Office de Tourisme - Bd d’Antioche 17650 Saint-Denis-D’Oléron Tel: +33 (0)5 46 47 95 53

Aux Délices des Crêpes If you find yourself feeling peckish as you stroll round Royan, make your way to Aux Délices des Crêpes. Open all year round and with a view of the sea, this restaurant offers a wide range of savoury and dessert crepes as well as buckwheat galettes. Delicious mixed salads and “platters” complete the offer. Open from noon to 11:00 pm. A friendly and efficient establishment with reasonable prices. Aux Délices des Crêpes 2 rue Étoile de la Mer 17200 Royan Tel +33 (0)5 46 05 02 35

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❱ ROYAN During the Belle Époque, the mild climate, long hours of sunshine and the proximity of beaches made Royan a very fashionable seaside resort, a chic and trendy place that left its mark on the city’s architecture. Hotels with Victorian facades were built, as well as chalets and villas in imitation of Renaissance chateaux. Some of them still remain, places like the villas on the Boulevard Frédéric Garnier, in spite of the bombing in January 1945 when the city centre was almost completely destroyed. Royan, like Dunkerque, Toulon, Le Havre, Saint-Dié and Calais, all of which were 80% destroyed, was classified as a «research laboratory for town planning and modern architecture». Leading architects from the period, Le Corbusier, Os-

car Niemeyer and Guillaume Gillet were mandated to help reconstruct the city. The Bordeaux architect Claude Ferret supervised the work at Royan. Today Royan presents us with a blend of Art deco 1930s architecture, Le Corbusier with Brazilian inﬂuences and the contribution of Saint Onge regionalism that is known as the École de Royan or Royan School. The Office de Tourisme will provide you with a document entitled Royan, ville 1950 with four circuits that enable you to appreciate the architecture dating from the reconstruction period. The imposing Église Notre-Dame, with a capacity for 2,000 and designed by Guillaume Gillet, is one of the modernist buildings from this period that fails to win universal approval. 

The

French

Brasilia

The Royan Museum The Royan Museum is situated in the old covered market at Pontaillac. It sets out to retrace the history of the city that was twice destroyed and three times rebuilt. The first written record of the city dates back to 1092. Then, like many other cities on the Atlantic coast, it was torn between the kingdoms of France and England. We next hear of it in 1815 because of its seawater baths. A casino was built in 1845 and Royan became fashionable. The museum focuses on this period, the bombing and the reconstruction, with many objects, posters and furniture items from the 1950s.

❱ Ancien Marché de Pontaillac - 31 avenue de Paris - 17200 Royan - Tel: + 33 (0)5 46 38 85 96 holidays n° 3.indd 67

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Saintonge is a vast region that breaks down into two parts: coastal Saintonge with the estuary of the Seudre, and inland Saintonge with plains and valleys, agriculture and vineyards, where we find all the Romanesque churches for which it is famous. This is where Saintes developed as capital of the region for several millennia. Since 1989 Saintes has been classified as a city of «art and history». It is a city with a rich past that it takes time to explore as we stroll through the pedestrian streets and steep lanes in the Échevinage district. With its hidden gardens and plane trees lining the roads, it is reminiscent of villages further south. The city was first built by the Santoni, a celtic tribe, but the Romans were attracted by its topography, with the Charente running through it constituting a powerful means of communication. About 20 BC Agrippa changed its name to Mediolanum and made it the Roman capital of the province of Aquitaine. Many new buildings were erected in the city, the vestiges of which we can still see today: the Arch of Germanicus, the aqueduct and the amphitheatre. Then Saint Eutrope converted the city to Christianity and became the first bishop of Saintes. We can still

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view his relics in the crypt of the church that bears his name, and which was consecrated by Pope Urban III. It was an essential stage on the road to Compostella in the Middle Ages and is included on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Then the city experienced some troubled centuries, buffeted by the shifting tides of English and French domination, followed by the ravages of the wars of religion. In the 17th century it became the seat of the Présidial and the place of residence of the Governor, but Saintes did not recover its former prosperity until the 18th century, largely thanks to the cognac trade. It then spread along the right bank of the Charente river, where we find the train station today. Saintes is now a peaceful sub-prefecture and remains the main trading centre in Saintonge. 

Office de Tourisme de Saintes et de Saintonge Place Bassompierre - 17100 Saintes Tel: +33 (0)5 46 74 23 82 www.ville-saintes.fr

Look after your health. Drink moderately

❱ SAINTES

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Charente-Maritime is one of the richest French departments in terms of 11th and 12th century monuments. We suggest two routes, each of which takes between a day and a day and a half.

The Basilica of Saint Eutrope

This basilica, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture perched on the heights overlooking the city, is dedicated to Saint Eutrope and is included on the UNESCO World Heritage list. It was built on three levels in order to preserve the place of worship while receiving pilgrims on their way to pay homage to Saint James of Compostella. The old nave has been destroyed but we can still admire the Romanesque chevet and sculptures. The lower church has remained intact and is an architectural jewel not to be missed. Rue Saint-Eutrope, on the way down from the arenas to the town centre 17100 Saintes

L’abbaye aux Dames

Founded by Agnès de Bourgogne, the wife of Geoffroy Martel, Count of Anjou, this Benedictine abbey was once very powerful. It was dedicated to educating young girls from good families and prospered until the time of the French Revolution. This jewel of Romanesque art suffered greatly but it has been restored remarkably well. It now houses the Music and Dance Conservatory and the Centre Culturel de Rencontres. Place Saint-Pallais on the right bank of the Charente - 17100 Saintes Tel: +33 (0)5 46 97 48 48

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The Arch of Germanicus

Erected in the 1st century, this arch is not a traditional Roman arch of triumph. Situated at the entrance to the bridge where the Roman road crossed the Charente river, it symbolised the entrance to the city. But the Charente eroded the banks over the course of the centuries and it owes its survival to Prosper Mérimée, inspector of Historic Monuments at the time, who had it dismantled stone by stone in 1843 to be installed on the right bank where we can still admire it today. Esplanade André Malraux - 17100 Saintes

69 The Archaeological Museum

Situated next to the Arch of Germanicus, this museum houses an important collection of precious stones and gems from the 1st, 2nd and 3rd centuries resulting from the demolition of the city walls (3rd century) and the Late Roman Empire (4th century) ramparts. Esplanade André Malraux - 17100 Saintes Tel: +33 (0)5 46 74 20 97

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❱ SAINT-JEAN D’ANGELY Built on the site of Angeriacum, an old Roman villa on the road linking Saintes to Poitiers, the capital of lower Saintonge was first of all a fortified abbey, in the 9th century, when its ramparts helped resist the incursions of the Vikings into the region. As a stopover on the road to Compostella, it experienced a period of prosperity that did not last because, like the rest of the region, Saint-Jean d’Angély suffered the consequences of the wedding in 1152 of Eleanor of Aquitaine and the Plantagenet Henry II, King of England, to whom she brought the Saintonge as a dowry. After the trials and tribulations of the Hundred Year War, Saint-Jean d’Angély was subjected to those of the wars of religion in the 16th century. As one of the bastions of the Reformation, the city suffered the wrath of Louis XIII, who besieged it, razed the fortifications to the ground and changed its name to Bourg-Louis, a name it retained until 1665. In the 18th century the Boutonne river was developed downstream from SaintJean d’Angély in order to facilitate navigation, port facilities were installed for trade and the city recovered its economic prosperity thanks to the vineyards and the trade in eau-de-vie. But the phylloxera disease destroyed all the vineyards early in the 20th century. Today SaintJean d’Angély lives on thanks to the dynamism of small local enterprises and high-quality agricultural products. 

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Office de Tourisme Place du Pilori 8 rue de la Grosse Horloge 17400 Saint-Jean d’Angély Tel: +33 (0)5 46 32 04 72 http://ot.angely.net

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The best way to explore Saint-Jean d’Angély is on foot. The streets in the old town are narrow and confusing and a veritable nightmare for drivers. In order to help you make your way about, a system of signposts and panels identifying buildings has been installed. So take a walk through the old city and don’t forget to raise your eyes to admire the architecture. Some interesting points not to be missed:

L’abbaye Royale

This abbey was built in the 9th century by Pépin, King of Aquitaine and grandson of Charlemagne, as a sanctuary for the head of Saint John the Baptist, a saint who had performed miracles. The saint’s reputation is responsible for the development of the monastery, when the abbey become an essential stopover on the road to Compostella. The abbey has been through some difficult times: it was pillaged by the Vikings, laid waste during the Hundred Year War and demolished by Protestants in the 16th century. The buildings we see today date from its reconstruction in the 17th century and in spite of the havoc wrought by the Germans during World War II, we can still admire a building with classical architecture and a monumental entrance that is well worth a visit. The top of the two towers affords a superb view of the city and the surrounding countryside. The abbey is now a cultural centre that offers quality accommodation for pilgrims on their way to Compostella. 5 rue de l’Abbaye 17400 Saint-Jean d’Angély Tel: +33 (0)5 46 32 04 72

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Le musée des Cordeliers

This museum is devoted to the adventures of Louis Audouin-Dubreuil, a local man, and his Citroën expeditions to Africa in 1920. We find the half-track used for the expedition and some beautiful examples of African art, as well as a collection of European weapons from the 18th and 19th century. 9 rue Regnaud - 17400 Saint-Jean d’Angély Tel: +33 (0)5 46 25 09 72

La tour de l’Horloge

Built in the 15th century, this clock tower straddles the rue de la GrosseHorloge. The tower is open to visitors. At the top is a bell weighing 1500 kg that still rings out the hours.

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❱ JONZAC

We can visit the castle today, though only a part of it is open to the public as it also contains the town hall and sub-prefecture. The local tourist office organizes visits. Also worth a visit within the grounds of the castle is the little theatre dating from Napoleon III. Up until the 17th century, the district around the castle made up the town of Jonzac, of which many

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vestiges remain, like the city gate and the medieval rue Champagnac. The Carmelite cloister dating from 1505 is also well worth seeing. Little remains of the original structure, which was used as a court during the French Revolution, but the small 17th century cloister is as charming as ever. One of the chapels is now the archaeological museum, where the Saintonge-Québec summer university is held. 

Office Municipal de Tourisme 25 Place du Château - 17502 Jonzac Tel: +33 (0)5 46 48 49 29 www.jonzac.fr Photos © Office de Tourisme de Jonzac

The first written record of the castle dates back to 1059. It was already perched on the same rocky outcrop with good natural defences. In 1073 the castle and the lordship of Jonzac belonged to the La Rochandry family. They held the land in vassalage for the abbey of Saint Germain des Près. Pierre de Sainte-Maure, whose family came from Touraine, took possession of the castle in 1370, when the Hundred Year War was raging on all sides. Situated in the middle of the frontier zone, the theatre of the French-English conﬂict, the city did not develop until the 15th century. And it was to endure many trials for remaining true to the reformed religion. It did not emerge fully from its slumbers until 1800 when it became the main county town for the arrondissement and grew rich on the cognac trade. It was hard hit by the crisis in the agricultural sector and invested considerably in a modernization campaign. Since then it has recovered a certain lustre thanks to tourism and water cures.

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Les Antilles

Les Antilles is an aquatic playground that covers an area of more than 10,000m2. It is open all year round and organizes different types of shows and entertainment depending on the season. You can enjoy a stroll through the palm-lined pathways from spring to autumn, but the tropical lagoon with its man-made beaches, wave-pools and a variety of water games delights young and old all through the year. Other features include fitness programmes, massage and whirlpool baths. The Ti-Bar on the lagoon beach serves sandwiches, doughnuts, ice cream and drinks. And the Antilles panoramic restaurant is the ideal place for a gourmet meal. To avoid unpleasant surprises, remember to book in advance. Different types of passes allow you to choose the type of visit that best suits you. Check out the options at the entrance. Zac du Val de Seugne - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 86 48 00

Base de loisirs d’Heurtebise

This leisure base is open all year long and has two different pools: one for swimming, the other for water sports. The base caters for a variety of different activities: a skateboard and rollerblade ramp, an equestrian centre, water sports (sailing with types of boats, optimists, small catamarans and larger sail boats, canoeing, pedal boats, windsurfing). July and August provide a broader range of activities: tree walking, circus arts for beginners, a climbing wall, archery and all traditional children’s games. The picnic area is much appreciated in summer and a reduced-price leisure passport offers you access to 4 activities. Domaine de Heurtebise - 17500 Jonzac Tel: +33 (0)5 46 48 49 29

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Thermal spa

Created in 1986 in an absolutely amazing cave-dwellers’ site, the thermal spa avails of the technical sophistication of the Chaine Thermale du Soleil and treats rheumatism, the airways and venal disorders. The spa is appreciated for its human dimension, friendliness and the availability of accommodation in nicely decorated apartments at the Maison des Vignes just a short stroll away. 17500 Jonzac - Tel +33 (0)5 46 48 59 59 www.sante-eau.com

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An extraordinary garden

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The Chateau de Ransanne has a delightful enclosed garden, after the fashion of the Middle Ages, when the walls protected the plants inside from the wind but also from pilferers. The garden is at the foot of the chateau and is divided into two parts: a kitchen garden and a decorative garden. The ﬂower garden has a fine collection of old roses, superb delphiniums and dahlias. The kitchen garden is divided into «squares» and contains many old vegetables, medicinal plants and a wide variety of fruit. It is maintained with great skill and taste.

Free entry from July 4 to August 28, Fridays and Saturdays from 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon and from 2:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. and until 5.30 p.m. on Sundays.

Jardin du Chateau de Ransanne - 3 r. du château - 17250 Soulognonne - Tel.+33 (0)5 46 93 15 79

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The gardens at Fontdouce Abbey The abbey, the restoration of which began in 1970, is worth visiting for its Romanesque and Gothic architecture. The formal gardens, of monastic inspiration, lie in a valley through which the Fontaine Douce ﬂows. The water is channelled through the gardens in the form of a series of fountains before passing through the abbey’s chapter house. Spectacular.

Open daily in April, May, June, September and October from 10.30am to 6.30pm and daily in July and August from 10am to 7pm.

17770 Saint-Bris-des-Bois - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 74 77 98

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Les Jardins de Pomone Colourful banks of ﬂowers, fountains and pergolas invite visitors to discover these orchards of edible, often-forgotten, fruit and wild aromatic plants cultivated in accordance with the rules of organic gardening. Catherine and Jean-Yves Maisonneuve have created a training garden and a growing garden named after the goddess of fruit: Pomona. Consumed during the Neolithic Age, coming from the East or the Far East, the different fruits in the garden invite you to embark on an amazing journey.

Open from mid-May to mid-October, Sundays only, with a slide show at 3:00 p.m. and visits to the garden at 4:00 p.m. or all year long by appointment.

La Fayolle - 12 rue du Château d’eau - 17400 Saint-Denis du Pin - Tel. 05 46 32 32 38

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La Roseraie de la Devise Created in 1990, this rose garden contains over 200 varieties of ancient and modern roses growing alongside other collectors’ plants, grasses and clematis plants. Some old varieties of pear, apple, plum and peach trees can be found among the 80 trees in the nearby fruit orchard.

Open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 12 noon and 2pm to 6pm.

Aline and Patrick Blanchet in their rose garden

Plaisance - Route de Tonnay-Boutonne - 17700 Vandré - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 68 87 18

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Further away in Charente

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❱ COGNAC When in Cognac, a visit to the vielle ville (old historic city) with its narrow streets huddled around the chateau is a must. This medieval city with cobblestone streets has the history of Cognac written in the facades of the houses built between the Renaissance period and the 19th century. You will notice that the stone facades are often black, the result of the action of Torula Compniacensis, a fungus that feeds on alcoholic vapour ! Don’t miss the chateau of François I, the church of Saint Léger with its remarkable 12th century portal emblazoned with the signs of the zodiac, and the towers of the Porte Saint Jacques, reconstructed in the 14th century.

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and ceased to add water. Then, somewhat by chance, whenever deliveries were delayed, they noticed that the eau-de-vie improved when it spent more time in oak barrels. This technique was an instant success and Cognac and its region experienced an extraordinary boom. The history of Cognac is linked to English history. Amélie de Cognac married Philip of Falconbridge, son or Richard the Lionheart, who later sold the lordship of Cognac to John Lackland. Then from 1366 to 1370, the son of Edward III, Edward Prince of Aquitaine, resided in the Château de Cognac. Attached to the kingdom of France, Cognac witnessed the birth of the future François I in 1494. Large trading counters were created throughout the region in the 18th century, essentially by the British, and major cognac brands like Hennessy, Otard and Martell were established. This explains why almost all the vocabulary relating to cognac is in English.  ©J.-L. Clavel

The Cognac Région Délimitée i.e. the production region corresponding to the 6 Cognac crus as defined by decree on May 1, 1909, is situated north of the Aquitaine basin. It extends in the west to the Gironde and the islands of Oléron and Ré and in the east to the first slopes of the Massif Central. It is a beautiful region with gentle landscapes that have cultivated vineyards since Antiquity. However, the economy of the city of Cognac was originally based on salt. Beginning in the 13th century, wines from the region were transported by boat to the Scandinavian countries. Wine growers encountered two problems in the 16th century : increased production that made it impossible to transport the all the wine, and lower alcohol content in wines that made it difficult for them to survive the sea voyage. In the 17th century the people in the Cognac region improved the system invented by the Dutch, which consisted in distilling the wines and adding water after the voyage. They introduced double-distillation

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©J.-L. Clavel

Museum of Cognac Arts This museum presents the economic and technical history of cognac over 1200m2. It covers all the different stages in the making of cognac, from the grapes on the vine to the final bottling. Les Remparts Place de la salle verte 16100 Cognac Tel: + 33 (0)5 45 36 21 10

Look after your health. Drink moderately

Discovering the Cognac region This museum is located in the former Augier Maison de Cognac. It presents the heritage of the Cognac region, the history of the Charente river, the fauna and ﬂora and the Romanesque art of the region. Les Remparts Place de la salle verte 16100 Cognac Tel: + 33 (0)5 45 36 03 65

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The Cognac Stages This consists of a series of events organized by winegrowers in order to present their know-how in the heart of the vineyards with a variety of different activities and visits, including a trip in a hotair balloon and, naturally, tasting sessions. The very interesting programme is presented on the site indicated below. Maison des Viticulteurs 25 rue Cagouillet 16100 Cognac Tel: + 33 (0)5 45 36 47 35 www.cognacetapes.com

La Dame Jeanne This gabare (an old-style wooden sailing boat) is identical to one that was once used to transport merchandise. It has been equipped to take up to 70 passengers and is a fascinating way to discover the river, the surrounding countryside and chateaux. Special activities and night excursions are organized for the summer period. Office de Tourisme 16 rue du 14 juillet 16100 Cognac Tel: + 33 (0)5 45 82 10 71 www.tourism-cognac.com

Visits to major Cognac houses The old Cognac houses organize guided tours of their establishments with commentaries on how cognac is made and aged, visits to the chais, and tasting sessions. A visit to Otard introduces you to some of the most beautiful parts of the Château de Cognac.

Hennessy Quais Richard Hennessy 16100 Cognac Tel: + 33 (0)5 45 35 72 68 www.hennessy.com

Otard Château de Cognac Sas 127 Bld Denfert Rochereau 16100 Cognac Tel: + 33 (0)5 45 36 88 86 www.otard.com

Martell & Co-Cognac 7 Place Edouard Martell 16100 Cognac Tel: + 33 (0)5 45 36 35 35 www.martell.com

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L’OCÉAN

❱ L’Océan

USEFUL ADDRESSES

A special place Martine and Noël have transformed this place into a charming hotel, comprising 30 rooms, complete with every comfort, television, telephone, wifi connection and customized decor. In season, we can lounge by the pool from morning to night, in the shade of the hundred-year-old pine tree or simply enjoy the gar-

EXCEPTIONAL

This charming hotel with the very specia Ile de Ré is open all year long. Resource tranquillity created by Martine and Noël and good taste.

HÔTEL★★ R E STA U R A N T • S PA

den. In the off-season, an open fire and cosy lounges invite us to warm up and slow down. The restaurant extends onto a terrace overlooking the patio. The cuisine is tasty and decidedly sea-based. There is a range he hotel comprises 30 individually television, telephone a T equippedis thewithkeyword of options, with fixed-price menus at €25 and €34, a Relaxation as you laze away of prying eyes, by the poolside, un lunchtime menu at €18.50, as well as the à la carte ofIn sight low season, an open fireplace and sma den décor invite us to savour the slow p menu or quite simply the dish of the day. evocatively named Secret de Hammam be

Hôtel Restaurant L’Océan - 172 rue Saint-Martin - 17580 Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 09 23 07 ??? e-mail: info@re-hotel-ocean.com - site: www.re-hotel-ocean.com

experience in terms of voluptuous relaxatio In the restaurant, Anne and Frédéric receiv a terrace extending onto the patio. The foo the sea, consisting mainly of seafood and s two fixed-price menus, one at €25 and o the slate or simply the plat du jour. Not to mention a selection of wines in harm

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Two shops

Ernest le Glacier at the Vieux Port : Just around the corner from the harbour, “Ernest le Glacier” is

THE best ice cream shop in La Rochelle and somewhere everyone should try at least once in a lifetime ! Brothers Freddy and Nicolas Babin are responsible for this success They add new, original and unusual ﬂavours every year and there are now a most 80 to choose from. Maybe you’ll be tempted by their sorbet made with woodland strawberries, marshmallow, violet. Our favourite is the “Méditerranéenne” – blood orange sorbet, candied fig and walnuts which you can enjoy with a shortbread crescent ice cream or a dark chocolate and pepper nougatine sorbet..

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48 cours des Dames & 16 rue du Port - 17000 La Rochelle - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 50 55 60

172 rue Saint-Martin - 1758 Tel: +33 (0)5 46 e-mail : info@re-hotel-ocean.com -

Kapalouest Set sail for the islands and discover them from the sea. Take the catamaran to Ford Boyard, Ile d’Aix or the Ile de Ré. Private parties and eceptions catered for - day or evening. Capacity for 28 on board, along with the skipper and the hostess 60 on the quay for receptions in La Rochelle harbour. English spoken - Ticket office on the Pont du Gabut (july / august) Embarkation across from the mediatheque - Parking nearby

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La Bazenne

349508

Tickets, reservations and information from: +33 (0) 5 46 44 97 67 - infos@kapalouest.com

3 different atmospheres, one location... Tapas Bar Tapas, wine by the glass in a cosy setting

Le Zen Bar

Open 9:00 p.m. Cocktails, champagne and a good buzz Open 9:00 a.m. - 2.00 a.m. lunch and evening service Crepes, pancakes and refreshments all day long

14 place de la Liberté - 17880 Les Portes en Ré - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 29 52 20 - www.labazenne.com

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ASituated l’Ouest LAST STOP BEFORE NEW YORK just off the Place de l’Église in the heart of Saint-Clément des Baleines, this bar-restaurant takes

a little finding. Grégoire serves up traditional dishes, tasty charcuterie and freshly caught fish in an original surroundings that also act as a showcase for local artists. Lovers of andouillette will be pleased to learn that here they can find their favourite sausages, not only top-quality but cooked to a T! Tapas and a menu of crepes and galettes complete the offer of a restaurant where the chef delights in preparing homemade sushis to order. And in summer the À l’Ouest bar comes into its own. Grégoire organizes concerts with groups from the region and with his old friend Zem, who is scheduled to honour us with his presence on July 22. If you travel to the north of the island, take a break at À l’Ouest in Saint-Clément. You won’t be disappointed. They even do ice cream!

A l’Ouest - 6 mail du clocher - Le Chabot - 7590 Saint-Clément des Baleines - Tel: 05 46 29 96 03

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Le Village Océanique

Holiday village Caters for groups, congresses and seminars. The village is situated on 11 hectares of ﬂowery woodland in the heart of the Ile de Ré, open February to November. Bungalow rentals to sleep 4/5 or 6/7; mobile homes to sleep 4 to 6 April to September. Nature Chalets from mid-June to end of August. Holiday options to suit all: groups, families, congresses and seminars. Activities for children. Swimming pool April to September, heated to 24° C mid-June to mid-Sept. Sports facilities: tennis (5 courts), basketball, volleyball, table tennis, pétanque, cycle rentals. Conference rooms and an amphitheatre to seat 450.

Chemin des Peux Blancs - 17580 Le Bois Plage en Ré - Tel: +33 (0)5 46 09 23 22 - village-oceanique.com

Napoléon A whiff of legend

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On the Ile d’Aix, Martine and Noël have saved the old governor’s house from oblivion. The result is quite simply stunning. The elegant and refined rooms offer incomparable views of the harbour, Fort Boyard and the Pertuis between Ré and Aix, and are equipped with ﬂat-screen televisions and a wifi connection. At lunchtime Jean-Noël, the chef in the hotel’s restaurant, Chez Joséphine, serves up light meals with salads, fisherman’s platters, mussels and a dish of the day. The evening menu is more elaborate, inviting us to take the time to enjoy it in the very special evening atmosphere when time seems to stop. A not-to-be-missed historic location on an island that is relatively unknown, though undeservedly so.

Hôtel Napoléon - restaurant Chez Joséphine - rue Gourgaud - 17123 Île d’Aix Tel. : +33 (0)5 46 84 00 77 - contact@hotel-ile-aix.com

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Hôtel & Spa La Baronnie

An exceptional estate, situated in the heart of the village, close to the harbour side. La Baronnie, a residence listed on the Historical Monuments Supplementary Inventory, together with Le Bien-Etre, an 18th-century manor house, makes up a most charming hotel, unique throughout Ile de Ré. The extensive gardens provide a verdant setting where you can have a cup of tea and rest during the day. In this oasis of calm, the private Spa invites you to relax at your leisure, enjoying our range of treatments. Non smoking hotel. Private parking.

17-21 rue Baron de Chantal - Saint-Martin de Ré - Tél. +33 (0)5 46 09 21 29 - www.hotel-labaronnie.com

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N°3 JUILLET 2011

USEFUL INFORMATION

BRITISH CONSULATE

TOURIST OFFICES

The closest Bristish Consulate is in Bordeaux : 353 Bld du Président Wilson. Tel: +33 (0)5 57 22 21 10.

MEDICAL and EMERGENCY ASSISTANCE Police :

Tel: 17

Fire brigade :

Tel: 18

Lifeboat service : Tel: +33 (0)5 56 73 31 31

Samu (medical services) : Tel: 15

European emergencies : (somebody speaking English will answer your call) Tel: 112

HOSPITALS

Comité Départemental du Tourisme de la Charente-Maritime Maison de la Charente-Maritime 85 B ld de la République 17000 La Rochelle Tel: +33 (0)5 46 31 71 71

Ofﬁce de Tourisme de La Rochelle 2 quai Georges Simenon 17000 La Rochelle Tél. +33 (0)5 46 41 14 68 www.larochelle-tourisme.com

Île de Ré Tourisme 3 rue Père Ignace 17410 Saint-Martin-de-Ré Tel: +33 (0)5 46 00 64 93 www.iledere.com

Ofﬁce de Tourisme Rochefort-Océan Avenue Sadi Carnot 17300 Rochefort Tel: +33 (0)5 46 41 14 68

Ofﬁce de Tourisme de Royan Palais des Congrès 2 avenue des Congrès 17200 Royan Tel: +33 (0)5 46 23 00 00 www.ot-royan.fr

Ofﬁce de Tourisme de Cognac 16 rue du 14 juillet 16100 Cognac Tel: +33 (0)5 45 82 10 71 www.tourism-cognac.com

Hôpital Saint-Louis

rue Docteur Schweitzer 17000 La Rochelle Tel: +33 (0)5 46 45 50 50

Centre Hospitalier de Saintonge 11 Bd Ambroise Paré 17100 Saintes Tel: +33 (0)5 46 95 15 15

Centre Hospitalier de Rochefort 16 rue du Docteur Pelletier 17300 Rochefort Tel: +33 (0)5 46 82 20 20

Centre Hospitalier de Royan 20 avenue Saint-Sordelin Plage 17640 - Vaux-sur-Mer Tel: +33 (0)5 46 39 52 52

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YACHT HARBOURING Rochefort Port de plaisance et capitainerie 17300 Rochefort Tel: +33 (0)5 46 83 99 96

Royan Port de plaisance 1 quai de la vieille Jetée 17200 Royan Tel: +33 (0)5 46 38 72 22

La Rochelle Port de plaisance des Minimes Avenue de la Capitainerie 17026 La Rochelle cedex 1 Tel +33 (0)5 46 44 41 20 Port de plaisance de l’ancien bassin des Chalutiers Quai Louis Prunier 17000 La Rochelle Tel: +33 (0)5 46 41 32 05

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