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a word from the editor
Lyon: a concentrate of French art de vivre In France, many things are based on good living, and life itself is an everyday art. The French love to eat, drink fine wine and take lunch breaks that last two hours. They are geniuses of the insignificant moment and know better than anyone how to sneak triviality into the weightiest conversations. They invented the French Revolution, Chanel No. 5, the baguette and the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée. They are masters at combining tradition and modernity. But above all, they live in one of the world’s most beautiful and most visited countries! This year, it’s entirely possible that this France of gastronomic flavors, refined culture and idyllic landscapes will break the world record for tourist visits, with a flow of more than 85 million visitors, ten percent of whom will come to stay in Lyon. Lyon, a showcase of French art de vivre! The city of humanists, gastronomy and enlightenment. Near the Alps and the blue Mediterranean. Proud of herself: of her history, her medieval neighborhoods, her contemporary buildings at La Confluence, her rivers, museums, celebrations and festivals. Dear foreign tourists, this review is dedicated to you. As a compendium of articles that have appeared in the issues of our egolarevue magazine, it isn’t meant to be exhaustive. Rather, it points out the places to go and the people to know, the men and women who make the city more beautiful. There are thirsts to slake and pleasures to delight in – 100% Made in France. “Enjoy!” as we say where I come from. &-0¨4& (*3"6-5 3&7*&8 $)03&0(3"1)&3 www.egolarevue.com
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&/(-*4) ego’s choices
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egolarevue 100% english
Editor-in-chief
Creative direction & design
114, quai Pierre-Scize, 69005 Lyon Tél. +33 (0)4 78 29 26 54 www.egolarevue.com
Nancy Furer (NF2) nancy@nf2.fr Tél. +33 (0)4 72 98 07 90
Sienne Design 56, av. Jean-Jaurès, 69200 Vénissieux Tél. +33 (0)4 72 90 87 87 www.siennedesign.com
Publication director
Writers
Éloïse Girault eg@ego-larevue.com Tél. +33 (0)6 77 12 11 11 assisted by Marjorie Vitetta and Marie Brodmann
Claire Blanchard, Estelle Coppens, Audrey Dupont, Nadine Fageol, Vincent Feuillet, Nancy Furer, Charlotte Pidou
Advertisement enquiries
Translation
Printing
Amplus www.amplus.fr
Imprimerie Chirat 42540 Saint-Just-la-Pendue
Éloïse Girault Tél. +33 (0)6 77 12 11 11 eg@ego-larevue.com
Legal information egolarevue is published once a year
by Les Éditions Rosely. Capital of 10,000 € RCS Lyon 500 646 039 ISSN 1964-8871 Issue 01 fall 2015 Registration of copyright 2015 Even partial reproduction of articles and illustrations is prohibited.
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a CRESUS – LES BIJOUX 27 rue Gasparin, Lyon 2 Tel. +33 (0)4 78 37 31 92 www.cresus.fr
THE OTHER FACE OF LUXURY A Lyon success story written by jeweler Christian Odin, Cresus has democratized the world of fine jewelry and watchmaking. As the leader on the French market of second-hand luxury watches, Cresus features half off on a used watch as compared to a new one. The brand has already sold over 30,000 chronographs, including names like Rolex, Breitling, TagHeuer and Jaeger-Lecoultre. Just steps from Place Bellecour, a new boutique specializing in jewelry has been added to the six existing shops. Over 400 creations by iconic brands like Chanel, Bulgari, Cartier and Chaumet have found a second home there. R &$
a kit for good eating Just order from Be Chef. Iris and Tibo bring fresh, seasonal products to your home that are pre-measured and include a recipe. Each month, there are four starters, four main dishes and four desserts, including a chef’s menu; they can be delivered or picked up in the 6th arrondissement. R $1
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Be Chef 74 rue Garibaldi, Lyon 6 Tel. +33 (0)478 26 47 03 www.bechef.fr
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At the Sofitel spa, you’ll find all the care provided by a salon, from hair removal to facials, by way of massages from around the world. With a subscription, you have access to the fitness room and a trainer. The sensorial showers are divine and, after your session, you can rest in the little Zen garden. Its very beautiful terrace is a solarium, where you can touch up your tan while sipping a smoothie. R "% SO FIT 20 quai Gailleton, Lyon 2 Tel. +33 (0)4 72 41 20 22
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Le Sucre, the new club and urban culture embassy installed on the roof La Sucrière is a rousing success. The venue hosts offer cutting-edge live programming, but not only that! Le Sucre is also the place for public encounters, workshops for children, festivals, fashion and fooding, with talented DJs and all things trendy. The Culture Next association, backed by Arty Farty, the mastermind behind Nuits Sonores, keeps a careful eye on contents and attracts musical nuggets from the European scene to Lyon. R &$ LE SUCRE 50 quai Rambaud, Lyon 2 www.le-sucre.eu Panoramic roof of La Sucrière. Programming on Facebook.
a bewitching visit to Old Lyon Perhaps you have already crossed her path. Wearing a pointed hat and a black gown, she walks up and down the streets with her wand set in precious stones. She’s the sorceress of Old Lyon. No less than 488 years old, she has no equal for finding inaccessible “traboule” alleyways or unsuspected underground passages. She’s actually the guardian of memory for this neighborhood and, in the magic spell she weaves for an hour-and-a-half or three hours, she includes lots of history and architecture, fabulous legends, a hint of esotericism and… a few trolls. A visit for both children and adults. Don’t miss it! R "%
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a SPA AT THE CHÂTEAU DE BAGNOLS Tel. +33 (0)4 74 71 40 00 www.chateaudebagnols.com
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a spa among the vines THE OWNER OF THE SITE HAS CHOSEN TWO APPROACHES: A “BEAUTY” AREA THAT USES ESPA PROTOCOLS AND A “MEDICAL” AREA WITH PRODUCTS FROM THE ORGANIC LABORATORY. TAKE THE AFTERNOON OFF. GO FROM BISTRONOMICAL LUNCH TO MASSAGES AND TREATMENTS. HAPPINESS IS JUST 45 MINUTES FROM LYON. R &$
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TAKE A PROUD HOTEL-CHATEAU, WITH A FINELY COMBED GARDEN AND SET AMONG ROLLING HILLS. TRANSFORM AN OLD FERMENTING WAREHOUSE, ALL WOOD BEAMS AND STONE, BY INSTALLING A 300-SQUARE-METER SPA WITH A HAMMAM, INDOOR SWIMMING POOL AND EVERYTHING ELSE YOU NEED FOR RELAXING. YOU’LL END UP WITH A SPOT FOR COCOONING UNLIKE ANY OTHER. THE MERE FACT OF LEAVING THE CITY BEHIND WILL MAKE YOU HAPPY ALREADY, EVEN BEFORE YOU’VE SLIPPED ON YOUR ROBE.
two stars in the sixth
the Swiss pocket knife store
A major event in gastronomy: Christophe Roure, the two-star chef and Best Craftsman of France, has opened an establishment near the Brotteaux district. The former chef at Le Charolais is now surrounded by the elegant decor of the Neuvième Art restaurant and a cuisine that is creative in both taste and visually. This chef from the Loire has kept the name and spirit of his establishment at Saint-Just Saint-Rambert. He works with seventeen experienced team members and his wife Nathalie. R $1
Yes, the aisles of chain stores specializing in do-it-yourself are depressing. Yes, it’s possible to enjoy buying mousetraps, a lock or No. 6 screw anchors. Because now there’s Morgan Gresset, a 31-year-old designer-do-it-yourselfer-inventor, and his hardware store. The setting takes its inspiration from an old-fashioned grocery store, and the multi-drawer cabinets hide small surprises, often sold wholesale and without packaging. There are more than 3,000 items, along with a goldmine of personalized advice and tool rental by day at a bargain price. R &$
LE NEUVIÈME ART 173 rue Cuvier, Lyon 6 www.leneuviemeart.com 40 places settings, open Tuesday to Saturday, noon and evening.
QUINCAILLERIE GRESSET 6 quai de la Pêcherie, Lyon 1 Tel. +33 (0)9 80 66 71 27
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YIN-YANG CONCEPT STORE With a touch of her magic wand, a fairy has transformed a neighborhood café-brasserie into a concept store with a smile. Behind the fairy are several talents. On one side, the women – mother and daughter – select tableware and accessories with an extra bit of soul. On the other, the men – who dealt in antiques at the Saint-Ouen flea market for twenty years – unearth vintage furniture from the fifties and sixties, with a weakness for gym equipment that they subvert. A particularly well-made mixture of genres that conveys real harmony. Exhilarating! R $#
a AUGUSTE ET COCOTTE 20 rue Auguste-Comte, Lyon 2 Tel. +33 (0)4 78 68 27 73
lofty aspirations Hidden from the street, Le Télécabine is an incredible mixture of volumes, glass and tasteful decor. Over 350 m 2 of a former factory have been rearranged and redesigned by Philippe Domas, architect, and Anthony Comte, artistic director. They have imagined a living area, a section for events and three mini-lofts for business tourism. Cooking classes, sales and presentations of stylish products are held here from time to time, with a view over the winter garden and the blue cabin that hangs there. Of course, the three 35-square-meter studios have everything you need and come with a conciergerie service. The place to be in Villeurbanne! R $1
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LE TÉLÉCABINE 48 rue des Charmettes, Villeurbanne Tel. +33 (0)6 31 47 14 65 www.letelecabine.com
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DAILY PIC 3 place Championnet, 26000 Valence Tel. +33 (0)4 75 25 08 08 Gourmet delight at a bargain price: 4 euros the starter, 1.10 euro the dessert and 11.90 euros or 14.90 euros for lunch menus.
canteen for a queen THREE MICHELIN STARS CAN GIVE YOU INCREDIBLE CREATIVE ENERGY. A BIT LIKE SHE DID WITH BLANC AT VONNAS, ANNE-SOPHIE PIC HAS ADDED A DELICIOUS CANTEEN TO HER GALAXY IN VALENCE. LIGHT WOODS, LEATHER, STONES… THE SETTING BY FRÉDÉRIC BERTHIER, WHO WORKED WITH BOTH NOUVEL AND STARCK, DUSTS THE LIGHT-FILLED DINING ROOM WITH A ZEST OF RECYCLED MATERIALS AND DARES TO USE A TEMPERED YELLOW-GREEN THE COLOR OF A LETTUCE HEART. HERE, THE QUEEN OF CUISINE DEFENDS HIGH-QUALITY SERVICE EVERY DAY. SQUEEZED LIKE A LEMON, THE CONSUMER NO LONGER HAS TIME FOR EVERYTHING, SO… LONG LIVE HOT SOUP, A BALANCED DISH OR A VEGETARIAN MEAL AND SMALL CAKES TO ENJOY ONSITE OR TAKE WITH YOU IN A PROTECTIVE CONTAINER. R /'"
my Belgian side It’s a done deal. Lyon now boasts 750 square meters dedicated to sofas, lamps, desks, beds, rugs, paintings, household linen and bookshelves with the Flamant stamp. The opulent Belgian brand exhibits its charming contemporary collections in settings that verge on perfection. R $1
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FLAMANT 18 avenue de Saxe, Lyon 6 Tel. +33 (0)4 37 24 25 12 www.flamant.com
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HE PLAYED A LOT WITH ATARI (FORMER INFOGRAMES), ONE OF THE WORLD LEADERS IN THE VIDEO GAME INDUSTRY, THEN LOST BEYOND THE LIMITS OF THE BEARABLE. TODAY, HE’S OUR NATIONAL MR. ROBOT, CONVINCED THAT THE FRENCH ECONOMY IS A SAFE BET, THAT EUROPE IS A MARVELOUS IDEA AND THAT NOTHING IN LIFE HAPPENS BY ACCIDENT. CONVERSATION WITH A MAN WHO HAS MELLOWED WITH AGE.
Bruno Bonnell, your initials are BB: those double “B’s” are nice. And well known…
## I came into the world with them because October 6, 1958, is the feast day of St. Bruno! When I was young, I decided that all the boys born into my family would have these initials. My sons were named “Benjamin” and “Balthazar”: it’s an obsession that belongs with my many manic ideas! But I also have four daughters who are under no obligation in this respect.
You were born in Algeria. Does that change anything for you?
## It changes everything! My family arrived in Algeria in 1948, and my great-great-grandfather was named Constantin because he was born in Constantine. Algeria was our country for five generations, and today I feel as much Algerian as French. I am part of the first generation of émigrés in my family. This is not an indifferent detail and most certainly explains the attachment we have for Lyon, where my parents arrived in 1966. Actually, I’m a Lyon resident first, then an émigré and, finally, French. Lyon is the place where I dug in my roots again, and I hope they will be deep. It’s true that my parents don’t like for me to say I’m Algerian because their wounds are still raw. But a part of my brain is tied to the country, to its smells, colors and emotions. These are the irrational feelings that were awakened when I returned to Algiers in 2013. I was at home, in a state of happiness that is difficult to describe.
What do you like about Lyon?
## It’s a city that represents a balance between north and south; it’s at the heart of Europe and two hours from the sea or mountains. It’s a city with real seasons, and it moves toward the future at a solid ancestral pace. It’s a European center on a human scale. I predict it will have a bright future in tomorrow’s Europe. Here, consensus is king!
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Is that an advantage?
## Yes, because it’s the only way to accept democracy. Adopting positions of principle that don’t allow recognizing that reality moves is intolerable. I want to be a man of balance and harmony. From adolescence to adulthood, I went through all the phases. I have been everything. And now I have reached equilibrium!
You’re a man who was recently named to head the robotics project by the government, with a budget of 100 million euros!
## Strangely enough, I dare to say that I’m not worried about France. Arnaud Montebourg is the one who named me. I like that guy; he’s convinced and, in spite of his impetuosity, has given a stimulus to certain industrial sectors in France. I am certain we will make a major place for ourselves. With the territorial reform and the emergence of regions that will have a competitive size, we are carrying out a radical transformation for our competitiveness. Since Europe is made up of a mosaic of regions, our companies have a strong hand to play. This is because tomorrow, three levels will be economically pertinent: the metropolitan areas, the regions and Europe. I don’t list France because for me, France is a vision of the world, a culture that enables having a unique soul, that of the Enlightenment, and a different way of looking at the world and adding our “French touch”. It’s the way we approach technology, the way we shift the focus on issues and create spontaneously. France is an intellectual territory. The goal of the twenty-first century is to build a successful Europe, not France. No one can take our “Made in France” spirit from us! However, we need to think European and combat Front National’s backward-looking and outdated message. Globalization isn’t going to stop, which is why it’s important to have respect and consensus.
Do you think about all that when you walk ten kilometers every day?
## And other things, too. As a matter of fact, I think very well when I walk! Humans are mechanically designed to move around, not to remain seated. I make my important decisions when I walk. And I sleep only five hours a night!
You would have been a good sailor!
## Eleven years ago, I crossed the Atlantic in a sailboat, and I loved it, even though
a Born October 6th, 1958, in Algiers Lives and works in Lyon The father of six children Multi-businessman, founder of Infogrames, Infonie, Game One TV, Robopolis, Awabot Creator of Robolution Capital, a European fund dedicated to service robotics Head of the Robotics project for the Ministry of Economy, Industry and the Digital Sector The book of his life: The World as Will and Representation by Arthur Schopenhauer “It's not only the title of this book that's interesting. There is also the idea that we carry within us the will to build the world we envisage. This is one of my combats.” His motto: Time is on my side. “Because sometimes you need to make time move faster… or slow it down. This is the solution for success.”
it was my only experience with the sea. That came about from a letter I wrote myself when I was sixteen, to be opened on my fortieth birthday. It said: “See, you still haven’t run a marathon.” But since I had run a marathon, I challenged myself to cross the Atlantic before the age of 45. It was magic, one of the most profound emotions of my life. In a sailboat, alone at night, you can touch the stars. Another challenge was to climb Mount Kilimanjaro for my fiftieth birthday, but I didn’t do it because of the death of my son Balthazar.
A death that came after a terrible illness…
## When I created Infogrames in 1983, I was convinced that it was forever. Then, in 2007, I was asked to leave. I was distraught because the company occupied all the areas of my life. And six months later, I learned that my son would die. For the first time in my life, I had time. I was able to accompany him along the path he took. Balthazar awoke a faith inside me that can’t be formalized by going to mass, but by the conviction that a human being is more than just DNA code. I communicated with this invalid child through senses that we don’t even know exist. When we have nothing else left, we develop other senses that are transmitted through love. Today, it’s a form of faith to avoid answering violence with violence. My experience with Balthazar sharpened my acuity in listening to others.
Is your passion for robots at the center of your professional life today?
## We will find our planet once again through scientific progress and technology. With robots that are able to search for ore where we never would be able to, that save us from having to make useless trips, that can protect forests… If we imagine this type of world, possibilities are infinite. The new humanity is an urban humanity, but I’m not afraid of this. We are at the dawn of a transformation where humans will consider the city as part of their natural element. Urba-humanity has begun, and it’s fascinating to think about. R
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From traditional fare to the starred setting of the Sofitel
Christian
LHERM THIS PURE PRODUCT OF THE LYON SCHOOL HAS BEEN ORCHESTRATING FROM BEHIND THE CHEF’S RANGE (KNOWN AS A “PIANO” IN FRENCH) AT THE SOFITEL TROIS DÔMES RESTAURANT SINCE 2013. IN BARELY A YEAR, HE HAD EARNED A STAR. A WELL-DESERVED CONSECRATION.
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Christian Lherm is an intuitive chef with down-to-earth good sense developed in the kitchen brigades of large hotels around the world and in the authentic Lyon bistros known as “bouchons”. He cooks to offer pleasure and loves to personalize his work according to the tastes of his guests. Just ask him what he can concoct, on the spot, for lunch and watch his face light up. Bingo! The carpaccio of scampi and scallops with truffles on a bed of potato mousseline he suggests triggers my excitement and makes my mouth water. “I’m not a great creator”, he says with simplicity. “Above all, cuisine is a number of basic elements – a cooking technique, a veal stock, a sauce. And lots of work, experimentation, inspiration, and expectation, too, because it takes time to come up with a recipe”. This pure product of Lyon trained at the François Rabelais School and got his first experience with “lyonnaiseries”, as he calls the local fare. He later worked in large hotels before installing himself at the Trois Dômes restaurant. Upon his arrival here, he chose the products he likes, reworked a few great classics and designed “homemade” blockbusters. And what's his favorite recipe? One he learned almost in the cradle: oyster and scallop tartare. Or a Salers beef fillet and hot foie gras cutlet. From sea to land. His motto, borrowed from the master, Paul Bocuse: “There’s only one cuisine, the good one!” R
a SOFITEL 20 quai Gailleton, 69002 Lyon Tel. +33 (0)4 72 41 20 20
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Michel Chapoutier comes to Lyon #: &45&--& $011&/4
THE HOUSE OF CHAPOUTIER IS PUTTING DOWN ROOTS IN LYON. MICHEL CHAPOUTIER, A WINE PRODUCER AND MERCHANT WHO WAS ELECTED PRESIDENT OF INTER-RHÔNE LATE LAST YEAR, HAS OPENED A BRANCH AT THE HALLES PAUL BOCUSE MARKET. AND WHAT DOES HE CALL IT? FAC & SPERA (“DO AND HOPE”), IN HONOR OF THE MOTTO ON HIS FAMILY COAT OF ARMS.
a FAC & SPERA BY M. CHAPOUTIER Halles Paul Bocuse 102 cours Lafayette, Lyon 3e Tél. +33 (0)4 78 60 29 10
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It’s a first. Until now, the company had never poked the tip of its wine bottle outside its fief at Tain l’Hermitage. But this first French sales outlet could be followed by others; a second branch is being considered for the halles at Nice. In Lyon, the attractive tasting-purchasing area is delimited by glassed-in cellars that also serve as walls. Wine lovers can set their sights on some 400 specially selected references to “send themselves a dream” in the form of a noble red like L’Ermite 2000, M. Chapoutier (€360) or a Meursault Tesson, Clos de Mon Plaisir 2010, Domaine Roulot (€93). Among the best-represented wine regions is the Rhône Valley, followed by Burgundy. There are also many champagnes, representing nearly 100 estates and including one of the favorites of Emilien, the shop’s energetic wine merchant. This is Cuvée D from Devaux (€39). And, of course, the full Chapoutier line is available. All bottles sold may be drunk onsite if you pay a €20 corkage fee, and plates of oysters, cold cuts and cheeses can also be brought to your table if you so desire. The joy of an appetizer at any time of day… R
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MORE THAN TWENTY YEARS AFTER DESIGNING “HIS” OPERA IN LYON, JEAN NOUVEL IS BACK AT THE JUNCTURE OF RHÔNE AND SAÔNE. IN HIS BRIEFCASE, HE CARRIES THE PROJECT FOR A HIGH-END RESIDENTIAL BUILDING IN THE CONFLUENCE DISTRICT. THROUGHOUT HIS THIRTY-YEAR CAREER, HE HAS STUDDED THE WORLD WITH BOLD PROJECTS IN HIS VERY PERSONAL STYLE: A CHOICE SUBJECT FOR EGOLAREVUE.
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oaded with honors, including the Pritzker award, a sort of Nobel Prize for architects, Jean Nouvel’s architecture – made of glass and metal, light and shadow, transparency and reflections – has been spreading internationally for thirty years. We last saw him in Lyon in 1993 at the inauguration of the Opera, with its highly criticized glass barrel vault; today, we find him again in the Confluence district with a project for a high-end building with 83 apartments. Between these two creations, over twenty years have passed, bringing an affirmation of his style. His facades in glass and metal have become his immediately recognizable signature. And what does he love the most? Transparency. He modulates it in imaginative ways just about everywhere in the world. Now sixty-eight and the head of Ateliers Jean Nouvel, where he directs a team of 140 people, the urban planner has created dozens of museums, office buildings, theaters, apartment buildings and private homes across the planet. Some of his most well-known creations are the Cartier Foundation and the Philharmonie building in Paris, the Dentsu Tower in Tokyo and the Abu Dhabi Louvre. Each time, the man with the shaved head and dressed in black pushes the envelope of his profession, the better to reinvent it. Defending a contextual and conceptual architecture, Jean Nouvel emphasizes that he combats “generic productions, all those pre-thoughtout buildings”. Whether in Copenhagen, Sydney, New York or Abu Dhabi, his works are to be read “dynamically and in perspective”. Between two urban projects, this jack-of-all-trades designs furniture, a tea set for Alessi or a bottle for the L’Homme fragrance by Yves Saint Laurent when he’s not staging dance spectacles or creating a museography for the Paris museum at Quai Branly, which he created. Never short of creative ideas, Jean Nouvel is getting ready to fly to Qingdao, a Chinese port city, where he will build the Artists’ Garden. This project covering 70,000 m² of gross floor surface will include a museum, artists’ studios, a marina and a hotel.
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In 2006, Jean Nouvel carried out his first American project, the Guthrie Theater, with its amazing exterior in metal and glass evoking the silos and mills of working docks on the Mississippi, not far away. The large cylinder containing the main room that seats over 1,100 spectators dominates the various volumes of the structure. Glass and metal cover the entire complex: on the ground floor, the transparency of glass seems to invite the audience inside, while the other levels are characterized by a firmer and more compact look stemming from the use of midnight blue stainless steel. Engravings on these surfaces animate the facade with scenes from the theater’s history. The building is characterized by a harmony between its horizontal and vertical elements and by the play of light and reflections on the facades.
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The architect conceived this building as a shelter to house the world’s sometimes poorly handled wealth. Its design is a partial reference to the nearby Eiffel Tower. The museum is built on a 3,200-ton metal bridge attached with 500,000 bolts that supports thirty-one multimedia or technical units. Windows are big – very big and very clear – often printed with immense photos. Randomly positioned posts of different sizes seem to imagine themselves as trees or totems. At times, matter seems to disappear, and we have the impression that the museum is a simple shelter without walls, located in a forest. On the inside, it’s good-bye to structures, liquids, the facade framework, emergency stairs, railings, suspended ceilings, spotlights, pedestals, display cases and labels. They step aside to allow communion with sacred objects
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Nicknamed “the suppository” by Barcelona residents, the Agbar Tower is 38 floors of parking spaces, an auditorium and very many offices and business centers. Reaching a height of 145 meters, which makes it one of the tallest buildings in the city, it is nevertheless not a skyscraper in the American sense of the word. It’s a unique emergence, a fluid mass perforating the ground, a geyser at a constant pressure and flow. The building surface evokes water: smooth and continuous, but also vibrant and transparent, since the material has an uncertain colored depth that is luminous and many-hued.
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In the heart of the English capital, this trendy shopping center has the shape of a futuristic quadrilateral wrapped in 6,500 matte glass panels that carry on a dialog with St. Paul’s Cathedral and the old buildings in the district by echoing the surrounding colors of stone and brick. Shiny surfaces are reserved for the passageways, providing a contrast that is meant to make people want to enter and stroll around inside this new neighborhood that signals change in the city.
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Sixteen and thirty-three floors tall, respectively, these two skyscrapers house apartments, shops and companies, in particular design and urban planning firms. But this project is, above all, a bold and ambitious work of architecture. The facades are covered with vertical gardens that provide effective insulation and protect against cold, storms and pollution. The complex is characterized by the Heliostat, a terrace hanging in space on the 28th floor that reflects sunlight onto the shaded areas created by the building.
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large format With this first project carried out in Lyon, Jean Nouvel brought the Lyon Opera into the modern world without condemning its past. The inside of the theater, which dated from the nineteenth century, was completely gutted. Only the four original walls and the foyer remain. Eighteen floors were built on the inside, including five underground levels, and were topped with a 42-meter-high semi-cylindrical glass vault. Resolutely contemporary, this dome has two layers. The first is in curved glass, and the second is composed of 8,000 glass slivers silkscreened in a white that is more or less opaque, depending on orientation. Arranged in this way, the space between the two layers allows eliminating condensation and activating ventilation. The roof's oxidized copper look is due to the fact that the side of the glass slivers in shaded in green.
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Implanted in the center of the new Confluence district, Ycone will be located behind the shopping center on Cours Charlemagne. With 14 floors and 83 apartments, this sixty-meter-high tower house will be the tallest exclusively residential building in Lyon. The architect wanted to propose multiple ways of living in the same collective structure. The idea was to avoid making a building like all the others: facades fan out from the upper floors, balconies have variable dimensions, multicolored glass-filled mosaics in frames can be seen at 180°, floors are staggered and ceiling heights are different. Delivery is scheduled for late 2017.
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outside
The Observation Tower by Jean-Michel Othoniel
Saône viewpoints and images #: /"/$: '63&3 1)0504 4"#*/& 4&33"%
INTERSPERSED WITH SURPRISES, THE SAÔNE RIVERBANKS PROMENADE RUNS FROM LA CONFLUENCE TO NEUVILLE. STROLLING ALONG, WE GR ASP THE SIGNIFICANCE OF ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT PUBLIC EUROPEAN ART PROGR AMS. HER E’S A LOOK AT SOME OF THE WORKS. There are 50 kilometers – actually 25, divided between the two banks – from the southern tip at the new Confluences Museum to the north and Val de Saône. Undeveloped for years because of flooding, the Saône has finally been made accessible to residents. This breath of fresh air tames the banks of a river that is much more bad-tempered and wild that its big brother, the Rhône. The project now includes seven developmental sequences. The eighth, which will attach the Confluence district to the Presqu’île at the Embarcadère landing stage, will be finished next year. A multidisciplinary approach was determinant in this reconquest that aimed to “recover a paradise lost”. Urban designers, architects, landscapers and artists were involved in the sequences, each of which was an independent project aiming to incorporate and highlight the landscape. There were no radical changes. Since each project was located in an area subject to flooding, participants were required to proceed with humility. Riverbanks were strengthened and planted, reinforcing biodiversity. Developments from one sequence to another tell a special story, because this project includes one of the most important programs of public art in Europe. Twenty-three works signed by 13 artists encourage strollers to stop for a moment and enjoy a new viewpoint, in particular of certain architectural gems. Many of the creations cause surprise, but isn’t that the first goal of contemporary art? On this journey, the common thread is provided by Tadashi Kawamata, who calls on the senses at six different points. Walking on rolling hills, seeing, discovering, touching… the artist proceeds with infinite tact, building a cabin on the bank here, making a platform from the quay there. And what about that mysterious man who is carrying another? This sculpture by Elmgreen & Draset seems to carry on a dialog with the courthouse it faces. Farther on, we are captivated by the knots of Pablo Reinoso, the sinuous park benches that weave themselves into Lyon’s past, the ships at port of call bearing silken threads. Jean-Michel Othoniel embroiders the observation tower with colored beads. One fairytale landscape reveals another through the hanging lanterns that face us on Ile Barbe. Nearing Fontaines-sur-Saône, Le Gentil Garçon plays jokes with fish that swim in the trees and a tree trunk that gives rise to an enigmatic labyrinth. Go then, on foot or by bike, to these pathways by the Saône that invite you to dream, to play and to take a contemplative break from the urban environment. R
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outside
Along the Water by Pascale Marthine Tayou
The Planks by Tadashi Kawamata
Nouages by Pablo Reinoso
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The Double Ramp by Tadashi Kawamata
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dinosaurs in a cloud
www.museedesconfluences.fr
THERE IS A BEFORE AND AFTER DECEMBER 20, 2014, WHEN THE CONFLUENCES MUSEUM OPENED. THE CULTURAL MASTODON WE BEGAN TO SEE TAKING SHAPE IN 2010, GRADUALLY ACQUIRING GLASS AND STAINLESS STEEL SCALES, WAS NO LONGER A PROJECT BUT A REALITY! BEFORE BEING SWALLOWED UP FOR A TOUR OF THE INSIDE, LET'S HAVE A LOOK AT THIS ENVELOPE THAT HAS TRANSFIGURED THE CITY'S SOUTHERN SIDE.
A Crystal Cloud In 2001, the Austrian architectural firm of Coop Himmelb(l)au, Wolf D. Prix & Partner won the contest for designing the future Confluences Museum with its intriguing Crystal Cloud, reflecting “mutations, deformations, interactions and ruptures”. Anything but traditional, this hybrid vessel oscillating between mineral and ethereal is based on the articulation of two entities, one designed to transmit knowledge, the other to provide a space for leisure.
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An architectural prowess Forty-five meters tall, 180 meters long and 90 meters wide, this colossal building offers an exhibition and living area covering 22,000 m2. On the city side, there is the glass-encased Crystal, whose gravity well provides the basic architectural and technical impetus. This is the luminous and open reception area. On the river side, there is the Cloud, built on a metal framework covered with 17,000 stainless steel plates. This is where knowledge progresses from exhibition room to exhibition room. As a bonus: the Z-shaped terrace on Level 4 with 600 solar cells.
Rest, relax and contemplate A building like this in a setting like this was meant to offer an original living environment, which is now a concrete reality. At the base, a light well and two basins filled with water brighten a vast area. One of the basins reflects the facets of the upside-down hill, a rounded excrescence that oozes from the Cloud like a drop. This esplanade housing the glass-enclosed brasserie leads to steps opening on a triangular garden. This is the final bit of green and strolling area before the Rhône and Saône fall into each other’s arms.
And inside? Here is where you discover the science collections – life sciences, earth sciences, technical sciences and human sciences – along a four-step pathway among meteorites, animal specimens, mummies, everyday objects, armor and a dinosaur skeleton!
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the object of desire
Pipistrello THE
LAMP
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19 6 5 And Pipistrello said, “Let there be light…” Gae Aulenti, who was born in Venice in 1927 and died in 2012, was one of the most prolific of Italian designers. Known worldwide and the winner of numerous prizes and awards, she leaves a strong, luminous heritage that includes the Pipistrello lamp, recognized from the beginning as an absolute reference. Designed for the Martinelli Luce firm for an order from the giant Olivetti company, the Pipistrello is now a telescopic symbol of transalpine genius. Stable, robust and an excellent source of light, the lamp was originally made of a satin-finish stainless steel tube that could raise it from 66 to 86 cm, a base in painted aluminum and a rigid, 55-centimeter shade in opalescent white methacrylate that evoked the open wings of a bat. Four screw-in light bulbs provide illumination. Since its creation, the Pipistrello has been the star of many films, in particular those featuring the Alain Delon-Mireille Darc duo in the seventies. A copy of the lamp is found in the collections of the Museum of Modern Art in New York. It has topped all sales records. www.martinelliluce.it
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the object of desire
2015 A fiftieth anniversary version For its fiftieth anniversary event, the Pipistrello is dressed in gold. The lamp will be produced in a limited and numbered edition only until December 31. It’s an absolute must! For its fortieth anniversary, the lamp wore chrome, and over the years it has acquired a broader range of colors, including shiny black, white, purple, satin-finish aluminum and copper. Now, we’re talking about gold and collectors for the lamp you’ll find at RBC Design Store in Lyon. If you miss it, you can always console yourself with the Mini Pipistrello, a table lamp with a simplified design that has been available since 2013, in black, white and copper. AT RBC DESIGN STORE 42 quai Rambaud, Lyon 2 – Tel. +33 (0)4 72 04 25 25 Or at selected points of sale on www.martinelliluce.it
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architecture
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FROM 1830 TO 1890, LYON WAS SURROUNDED BY TWO RINGS OF FORTIFICATIONS. THE FIRST ONE ENCLOSED THE CITY DISTRICTS, WHILE THE SECOND ONE IN THE SUBURBS WAS ENTRUSTED TO GENERAL SÉRÉ DE RIVIÈRES. THESE FORTS, WHICH HAVE BECOME EMBLEMS OF MILITARY ARCHITECTURE, TELL THE STORY OF HOW THE CITY WAS DEFENDED. SOME OF THEM ARE USED FOR NEW PURPOSES. HERE’S A CLOSER LOOK AT FOUR IMPRESSIVE SITES.
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Although it is not the oldest one, this polygonal fort built around 1875 is one of the best restored. It started looking in a new direction some thirty-five years ago, thanks in large part to the volunteers who worked to restore, preserve and bring to life this historical heritage. These enthusiasts readied, cleaned and rehabilitated while trying to remain as faithful as possible to the original structure. After the installation of a small museum, they called on a stonemason to renovate the bread ovens, and then got ready to prepare the latrines, the forge and the retractable bridge. During tours, local history buffs describe with pleasure the multiple facets, underground passageways and singular views of the site. The fort is active on the outside, too, with a fitness trail, a promenade and an emblematic biennial.
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In July 2003, the town of Feyzin became the owner of this fortified structure, with the goal of restoring it and giving it a new purpose. Little by little, this immense area with 22,000 square meters of buildings over 26 wooded hectares was opened to the public. First, there were paths and a green walkway, followed by a renovated reception pavilion and a reconditioned retractable bridge that leads to the exhibitions. Twice a year, during Heritage Days and the “Fort en Bal(l)lade” event, the structure lowers its guard. In July 2013, following a year and a half of work, the fort became an equestrian center. Architect Jean-Pierre Givord brought the former Parados stables up to current standards and created rooms and housing for the grooms, as well as an outdoor practice track in one of the fields. He also created an original covered practice track with a green and white polycarbonate roof that has the proud look of a giant origami. Other projects are being designed to develop an all-around recreational area.
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architecture
'035 #36*44*/ Francheville was one of the ďŹ rst communities to purchase its “very ownâ€? fort in 1981 from the army. The goal was to give the site an artistic and cultural orientation. Since the fort was vacated only recently, the premises are in good shape. Only the entry pavilion was renovated and given a glass roof. In the nineties, artists in residence stayed there. Next, a major rehabilitation program was planned and based on the "art, nature, heritage" trilogy. Rue Royale Architects was in charge of enhancing the site without changing the basic structure. The Center for Contemporary Art has subtly made a place for itself in the fort, while the red-painted reception area underscores the perfectly symmetrical axis of the building. The galleries have once again become passageways, and the vaulted cells are used for exhibitions.
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architecture
'035 4"*/5 +&"/ From 1999 to 2004, the ďŹ rm of Pierre Vurpas and Associates rehabilitated this massive military site overlooking the SaĂ´ne to transform it into the new National School of Public Finance. The characteristic ramparts and nearly two-hundred-year-old buildings were faithfully restored. The old walls in Villebois stone now house new functions, such as classrooms in the former barracks and shared services inside the powder store. The bastion, which is the only part dating from the sixteenth century, is used for sports activities and exhibitions. Since it is a central element, the former parade ground was the object of special attention. It leads to the different areas, in particular the restaurant overlooking the town, and features a Mediterranean garden. Other unsuspected gardens are found along the wall walk.
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the beating heart of Villeurbanne #: &45&--& $011&/4
THE CITY CENTER OF VILLEURBANNE AND ITS EMBLEMATIC “GRATTE-CIEL” (SKYSCRAPER) DISTRICT WILL SOON BE SEEING DOUBLE. WORK ON THE EXTENSION PROJECT IS SCHEDULED TO START IN 2016 AND WILL RESULT IN TWICE AS MUCH SURFACE AREA. CHRONICLE OF A RENEWAL.
1. For Christian Devillers, the skyscrapers are “extraordinary” buildings in an “ordinary” urban setting. Constructing large buildings in a haphazard manner during the second half of the twentieth century and combining them with a suburban architecture has produced excessive heterogeneity that detracts from the area’s value.
* In total, the project aims for 120,000 m 2 of net surface area divided as follows: from 65,000 to 70,000 m 2 of housing, from 25,000 to 27,000 m 2 of businesses and services, almost as much in new school and sports facilities, and approximately 4,000 m 2 of offices. This should attract new residents since there will be room for around 800 more households.
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Discussions on expanding the Villeurbanne city center, which is too small in proportion to the rest of the community, began ten years ago. The strategy consists in extending the heart of the former workers’ neighborhood beyond the Gratte-Ciel district*, a monumental complex from the thirties covering five hectares. For years, it has represented the city “center”. Together with Greater Lyon and the community of Villeurbanne, the Devillers et Associés Agency has been working since 2008 on the Gratte-Ciel Nord project that will offer the 140,000 residents of Villeurbanne a “high-density” city center that can be “used by everyone”, while preserving the unity and coherence of the magnificent avant-garde group that arose from the political stimulus of mayor Lazare Goujon and the talent of architect Môrice Leroux. And why should the Villeurbanne city center be bigger? Although a focal point and highly visible, the Gratte-Ciel district is hemmed in and poorly connected to the rest of the community. The urban sector has evolved little during the past twenty years and needs a new lease on life. It suffers from a lack of local businesses, which has led to a negative phenomenon of commercial outflow since the majority of residents do their shopping in Lyon. 51
The Gratte-Ciel Nord project aims to broaden and given new impetus to the city center by proposing a harmonious cohabitation between new businesses, housing, facilities and, to a lesser extent, offices. Using the volumes of Môrice Leroux’s buildings as a reference, the new constructions will house shops and chain stores on the ground level and first floor, while the upper floors are designed for apartments with hanging gardens. One of the major strategies of the project consists in creating new public areas to enhance the center and place the group formed by the skyscrapers into a more open setting. To do this, Avenue Henri Barbusse will be extended to connect the Park to the center and open up a broad view of the skyscrapers along a northsouth axis. Rue Racine will also be extended. In addition, the east-west axis will be developed using Cours Émile Zola as a basis. At term in 2024, residents will be able to cross from Rue Jean Bourgey to Rue Hippolyte Khan, which is not currently possible. Lycée Pierre Brossolette will be demolished and repositioned in the center on Rue Henri Barbusse because it interferes with creating a broad east-west public area. When work is finished, Villeurbanne will have 13,000 m 2 of additional public areas. R
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1. New residents in particular will give life to the renewal, which will be based on the construction of some twenty high-end residential buildings in the city center. Future buildings will feature a soaring, slender silhouette. The major concern is ensuring that this “graft” will not conflict with the recognized architectural heritage of Villeurbanne.
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2. The goal of the Villeurbanne city center extension project is to combine urban intensity and quality of living by proposing a harmonious cohabitation between businesses, housing and offices, all within a larger city center.
52
3. The square. This is the type of setting that we could find in the future north square. The central square, which will most probably be rectangular, will be surrounded by businesses, the terraces of cafés and restaurants. In the mid-ground on the right, we can see where the future Lycée Pierre Brossolette will be located.
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art in all its manifestations
53
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the art of normality
Monsieur Bidule: beyond mere makeshift… */5&37*&8 #: /"/$: '63&3 1)050 4"#*/& 4&33"%
THEY’RE MONSIEUR BIDULE, A FUNNYLOOKING GUY WITH A LIGHT GLOBE FOR A HEAD, HALF HUMAN AND HALF LAMP, WHO SHUFFLES NONCHALANTLY ALONG THE BYWAYS OF MODERN URBANITY. THEY’RE ROMUALD AND PJ, TWO ARTISTS INSPIRED BY THE SPIRIT OF THE TIMES.
Why Monsieur Bidule? Who is he?
What’s his purpose?
1+ He’s artistic expression, even
30.6"-% He makes people stop
though we do have an affective relationship with him! He has his own life and real discussions with the people he meets on the streets when he walks around. 30.6"-% We often ask ourselves how we can sum him up. Let’s say that he was born to confront the world! He’s an art object that expresses himself through media like text, image, drawing, engraving, sculpture, video and, above all, participatory performance. He’s a work of art that’s disconnected from all financial criteria.
and think. About the relationships between individuals in a consumer society, about the way we think of ourselves and others. About exhibiting private lives on the social networks, because Monsieur Bidule displays his entire life on Internet, and it’s not much. Each of the media we use to give him a setting leads to a different approach to Monsieur Bidule. All the photos of him we posted on the Web are accompanied with a caption that is often laconic and doesn’t say a whole lot. This is to make people think about what they put on Internet, a complex tool that is most frequently used with overwhelming naiveness. 1+ Through the video, he reveals himself to be a bit awkward, someone who lets himself be carried away by events. He’s the average tourist; he expresses normality. But each photo or video caption provides an opportunity to interact with an audience by generating a wide variety of reactions, ranging from feigned indifference to the giggles of children. 30.6"-% He is treated in a graphical manner that questions normality in the human being. In fact, Monsieur Bidule would love to have his own identity, but it’s been crushed socially to the point of no longer being specific. Like everyone, he thinks he’s unique, but he’s just like the rest of us.
When and where was he born?
30.6"-% On January 1, 2014, the date of his first photo. For four months, we had kept a plastic lamp globe on the balcony. And then one day, I said to myself, “I’m going to make a mask”. A jigsaw was all it took. Then I put it on PJ’s head and stuck on two eyes that were as inexpressive as possible, rather similar to those of Andy Warhol’s Mickey Mouse.
What’s his life like?
1+ He goes everywhere we go, on
a www.monsieurbidule.com
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vacation, to opening nights… We’re even thinking about taking him on a plane to the United States for a road trip project in July 2016. We’re working on this project now and are looking for sponsors.
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1+ The people who think Monsieur Bidule is a big joke are right! He offers us an opportunity to be sarcastic about topics that worry us, like identity, type, humanity, social status and politics. Do you have an artistic life outside Monsieur Bidule? Are there other projects?
30.6"-% We just finished an exhibition at the Besançon city hall in the context of a festival organized for the reopening of the Museum of Fine Arts. It’s called “Bêtes d’Expo” (“Exhibition Animals”)! In September, we’ll be present at L’Aspirateur, the Center for Contemporary Art in Narbonne, for an exhibition on contemporary art and luxury. I am currently working on a series of pencil drawings and a sculpture that represents a big pink pig in vinyl with earrings signed by Chanel and with the ISIS logo. It‘s quite an undertaking, I know… but I take my inspiration for it from the work of Robert Rauschenberg, the brilliant forerunner of Pop Art. R
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The 13th edition of the Biennial of Contemporary Art takes us on a stroll through Modern Life. This concept will also be the basis of the next two editions. Thierry Raspail, the artistic director, has chosen American Ralph Rugoff as the curatorial guide. Rugoff invites us to discover the varied works of 60 artists from 28 countries at La Sucrière, the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Confluences Museum. Two exhibitions, This Fabulous Modern World and Rendez-Vous 15, gravitate around the central theme, along with the Resonsance event that presents creative activity in the region at various venues in the city and beyond. R $1 BIENNIAL OF CONTEMPORARY ART www.biennaledelyon.com
" '&45*7"- '30. %&$&.#&3 50 A city aglow!
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If there is one event claimed wholeheartedly by the people of Lyon, it’s the Festival of Lights. And for a good reason: this tradition dates to December 8, 1852. First corresponding to a religious manifestation, the lighted candles set on window sills by city dwellers became the symbol of a day of communion. Over the years, the festival has grown to become a magical four-day celebration that attracts millions of visitors. Monuments, museums, religious buildings, hills, rivers: 75 sites are enhanced with dreamlike, playful and interactive installations by 130 international artists. Creations or projections have become more technically advanced over time and less energy-devouring. For this International Year of Light, the 17th edition of the Festival should be especially magnificent. R $1 FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS www.fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr
" '&45*7"- .": 50 Musical immersion
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Who said Lyon was a Sleeping Beauty? Certainly not fans of the Nuits Sonores. Backed by the Arty Farty association, this festival of electronic, digital, visual and innovative cultures has acquired renown through its high-quality programming. For five days and five nights, 250 European artists will make the city vibrate. The balance between leading performers and emerging talents becomes stronger with each passing year through a varied program that moves among some fifty urban venues. One city will be given free rein for programming. There will also be a concert by an emblematic group, siestas to music, mini concerts for children and a pleasantly mild closing with Sunday Park. R $1
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NUITS SONORES www.nuits-sonores.com
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art in all its manifestations
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Facing City Hall in Lyon, the opera building renovated in the nineties by architect Jean Nouvel is a favorite venue for metropolitan residents. The rounded glass barrel vault on the top houses the dance studios and the “house” ballet. With a masterful orchestra and choir, this cultural site promotes the lyric arts and dance with excellence. The end of the year promises a delightful moment in the company of Jacques Offenbach with the picturesque world of the Halles market district (Mesdames de la Halle), followed by the enchanted vegetable garden of the king of carrots (Le Roi Carotte). Two other highlights are The Abduction from the Seraglio by Mozart, staged by Wajdi Mouawad, and Carmen L’Arlésienne by Roland Petit and Georges Bizet, two twentieth-century classics. R $1 NATIONAL OPERA OF LYON Place Louis Pradel, Lyon 1 Tel. +33 (0)4 69 85 54 54 www.opera-lyon.com
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Almost 140 years after it was founded, the Célestins Theater continues to weave its magic spell. Each season, this Italian-style theater proposes a selection of classical, contemporary and innovative repertoires. From the orchestra seats to the upper balcony, spectators can enjoy Albertine, en cinq temps, a masterpiece by playwright Michel Tremblay from Quebec, King Lear by William Shakespeare staged by Olivier Py, who directs the Avignon Festival, the bourgeois comedy entitled Le retour au désert by Benard-Marie Koltès and staged by Arnaud Meunier, or Les fourberies de Scapin, Molière's famous farce reinterpreted by Marc Paquien. R $1 LES CÉLESTINS 4, rue Charles Dullin, Lyon 2 Tel. +33 (0)4 72 77 40 00 www.celestins-lyon.org
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Radiant season Since its renovation in 2013, the Radiant Bellevue has captivated Lyon residents with a broad, uninhibited program. This season, this cultural venue perched on Caluire Hill offers theater, music, circus acts, dance and spectacles for children, mixed together with a big dose of humor. To name just a few, Christophe Alévêque, Fabrice Eboué, Anne Roumanoff and Pierre-Emmanuel Barré steal the show. The French concert scene is also well represented with, in particular, Cœur de Pirate, Vianney, Dominique A and Izia. Here, The Do is as welcome as Mozart or Arno. The audience will be able to follow every pas de deux of the Pietragalla and Derouault duo and can savor the texts from classical and contemporary plays interpreted by well-known actors and actresses. R $1 :7&4 #63%&5
RADIANT-BELLEVUE 1, rue Jean Moulin, Caluire-et-Cuire Tel. +33 (0)4 72 10 22 19 www.radiant-bellevue.fr
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