Concept Hair Autumn Issue 2018

ISSUE THE FIRST EVER

INSIDE...

CONCEPT BARBERING interview with errol douglas MBE PRACTICE LEVEL 2 & 3 EXERCISES

it's time to #loveconcepthair win amazing prizes from: ALFA ITALIA

CLOUD NINE

GE BETTERTON

MANIC PANIC

MYSTERY PRIZE!

worth over £1500

TO ENTER: Follow @concepthairmag on Instagram Visit Salon International at the ExCeL on Monday 15th October Come to the Fellowship stand (A170) to get your FREE Concept Hair goodie bag and to be in with a chance to win one of five star prizes.

Good luck!

in collaboration with fellowship clubstar

Autumn 2018 / Editor's Note

O

Welcome to the first ever Concept Hair Magazine, brought to you by SNG Publishing.

ver the twelve years that SNG Publishing has existed, we have made some incredible friends along the way and it’s out of these fantastic contacts that Concept Hair has arisen. Lecturers, students, apprentices and industry professionals have recently asked us, ‘why do you not have a hairdressing magazine, too?’ and we haven’t been able to answer, because the reality is that we should have one! So after lots of excitement, research, networking and planning, we proudly bring to you…Concept Hair Magazine.

We are here to guide you through your hairdressing and barbering qualifications, every step of the way. Throughout your course, we will assist you with your exams, inspire you with industry legends, entice you with awesome competition prizes from some of the industry’s biggest names and engage you with interesting features. We have made this magazine especially for you and we want it to be everything you need it to be, so make sure you follow us on social media and let us know your thoughts.

So, from myself and the rest of the SNG Publishing team, welcome and enjoy! We can’t wait to be a part of this phenomenal, exciting, hair-loving, well-styled and well-groomed world.

BECKY MARTIN Editor

www.concepthairmag.co.uk Search: ConceptHairMag

COVER CREDITS: Hair by The Affinage Colour Rebels

EDITOR: BECKY MARTIN editor@sng-publishing.co.uk DIGITAL EDITOR: TOM TRACEY tom.tracey@sng-publishing.co.uk GRAPHIC DESIGNER: LEE OWEN design@sng-publishing.co.uk TECHNICAL CONTRIBUTORS: Habia & Benjamin Ryan Hair ADVERTISING: ZOË TANNER sales@sng-publishing.co.uk PUBLISHER: CELIA MATTHEWS celia.matthews@sng-publishing.co.uk PRINTERS Stephens & George, England

DISCLAIMER Concept Hair Magazine is published by SNG Publishing Ltd (SNG). All content and artwork is © SNG Publishing Ltd or its contributors and SNG is a trade mark of SNG Publishing Ltd. No part of Concept Hair Magazine may be copied, transmitted or published in any form or by any means without prior permission.

Although SNG has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of this publication, it does not verify any claims or other information appearing in the advertisements contained in Concept Hair Magazine. It therefore cannot accept any responsibility whatsoever for consequences that may arise from the content or artwork contained in Concept Hair Magazine, including any errors or omissions or any opinions or advice given therein.

This publication and its content is not a substitute for professional advice on a particular matter.

Advertisements are accepted for publication in Concept Hair only upon SNG Publishing Ltd standard terms of advertising.

GENERAL ENQUIRIES To subscribe to Concept Hair Magazine call 0870 774 3049 or subscribe online at www.concepthairmag.co.uk

© SNG Publishing Ltd, 2018

Concept Hair / 01

Autumn 2018 \ Contents

contents

20

01

Editor’s Note

04 Latest News 06 TRENDING 08 COMPETITION: Wella 09 INTERVIEW: Errol Douglas MBE

42

12

Manic Panic's Tish & Snooky

14

Superstar Salons

16

Apprentice 101: ‘The looks I’m most proud of’

17

Introducing Habia Kits

18

Indola: From Classroom to Catwalk

20

Telford College Hairdressing Competition

22

INTERVIEW: ‘Why I ditched the kitchen for the salon’

24

A Day in the Life…on a Photoshoot

26

Introducing…The Collective

27

Errol’s Ideal Apprentice

28

INTERVIEW: Meet The L’Oréal Colour Trophy Eastern Winner

30

How to go from Apprentice to Top Stylist

32

The Junior Council

33

Scissors with GE Betterton

34

#PatchTestParty with Casey Coleman

36

Look Book

09 02 / Concept Hair

Autumn 2018 / Contents

41

CONCEPT BARBERING

42

Mike Taylor How To’s: Cutting, Shampooing and the Cut Throat Shave

47

Captain Fawcett's Barberism™

49 Bluebeard’s Revenge How To: Dry and Finish Men’s Hair 51

John Keegan’s Top Tips on Beginning in Barbering

52

Bluebeard’s Revenge How To: Cutting Curly Hair

28

12 14

04

36 53

HABIA EXERCISES – Reception Duties

54

HABIA EXERCISES – Communication

55

HABIA EXERCISES – Salon and Legal Requirements, Basic Science

57

HABIA EXERCISES – Products, Equipment and Use

58

HABIA EXERCISES – Reception Duties

59

HABIA EXERCISES – Salon and Legal Requirements

60 EXERCISES – Client Consultation

26

24

61

EXERCISES – Hair Tests

62

EXERCISES – Solving Perming Problems

63 BENJAMIN RYAN HAIR EXERCISES Colouring 64 EXERCISES: Health and Safety Concept Hair / 03

Autumn 2018 \ News

latesTNews

1

Shaping Futures breaks all time fundraising record

S

haping Futures, Schwarzkopf Professional’s charitable initiative, has had its all-time fundraising record smashed (£13,000 raised in 2017), as its UK volunteers donate nearly £19,000 to help disadvantaged youngsters in Vietnam and the Philippines.

3

Inspired by a recent visit to a salon in Namibia, Anne has created an environmentally conscious salon which uses recycled and reconstituted materials and furniture to reduce the carbon footprint of the business.

Shaping Futures is a global initiative run by Schwarzkopf Professional and supported by the Fritz Henkel Stiftung. Each year volunteer hairdressers from across the globe are partnered with SOS Children’s Villages, where they spend several weeks transforming the lives of disadvantaged young people through hairdressing.

The salon uses biodegradeable Easy Dry towels, which reduce hot water use and avoid landfill; LED energy efficient lighting throughout; recycled card and paper for all stationery with carbon positive printing from local eco printers Seacourt, plus 100% carbon neutral telephone calls and broadband. The salon also uses infrared heaters made from recycled materials which are designed to consume 60% less energy than standard convection heaters and produce no CO2.

sional www.schwarzkopf-profes haping co.uk/ skp/uk/en/home/s l futures/ what-we-do.htm

ahogany’s new online streaming service will provide instant access to their new collection, The Ed-torians, along with previous collections and the Mahogany Classics Collection. It will be available through the Mahogany website, allowing visitors to download the step-by-step haircutting or colouring technique of their

04 / Concept Hair

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fter 15 years in Bicester, Anne Veck has relocated the salon to the redeveloped shopping mall in the centre of town, just a five minute walk from Bicester Village outlet centre.

The group of eight stylists from across the UK were all asked to raise £1500 each, however they have raised close to £4,000 more than originally asked, even before all the donations are officially in.

MAHOGANY LAUNCHes ONLINE STREAMING SERVICE

M

2

Anne Veck Bicester relocates and revamps

choice to view on their desktop, laptop, tablet or phone.

To stream from the library of Mahogany techniques visit www. mahoganyhair.co.uk/ education - each download costs £3.00 for one week, £6.00 for three months and £9.00 for six months.

www.anneveckhair.com

4

ClubStar Art Team Hosts Inspiration Evening

T

he Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s ClubStar Art Team recently held their first presentation evening, sharing their inspirations and collections, as well as welcoming some special guests.

Their day started with a session from Curlformers by Hairflair, who are Fellowship Bronze level sponsors. Next to the stage was former ClubStar Art Team student and current F.A.M.E. Team member, Ellie Bond from Spargo Hairdressing, then Michael Rackett from RUSH Hair.

The ClubStar Art Team then returned to the stage to share their latest collection, inspired by Japanese streetstyle.

Finally, special guest Errol Douglas MBE took to the stage to create a look inspired by his latest collection; an avant-garde style formed from wire and plastic.

Closing the evening, ClubStar mentor – and host for the evening – Simon Tuckwell urged potential team members to take the plunge and apply, calling the application process “win or learn, not win or lose.”

Autumn 2018 / News

5

ANDIS COMPANY LAUNCHES SPECIAL EDITION

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ndis® Company has launched a striking ‘Andis Nation’ special edition Cordless usPRO Fade Li clipper as a shout-out to its dedicated and growing fan base. Featuring a bold full-colour design emblazoned with ‘Andis Nation’ graphics, this most popular of Andis clippers is sure to be ahit in barbering community.

The Cordless usPRO Fade Li clipper is super popular among barbers and stylists for executing tapers and fades due to its lightweight, sub 10 oz. design and powerful rotary motor. Its lithium-ion battery delivers up to two hours of uninterrupted performance and it can also be run with the cord.

The high-speed carbon steel blade adjusts from a skin close size 00000 to size 000 and can be zerogapped for extra-close cutting.

The Cordless usPRO Fade Li Andis Nation clipper kit includes five attachment combs and comes with a one-year manufacturer’s warranty.

m/ https://fellowshiphair.co rt-team time-to-shine/clubstar-a

www.andis.com

Concept Hair / 05

Autumn 2018 \ Trending

BY TOM TRACEY

It’s been a busy first few months here at Concept Hair HQ. We launched on social media this year whilst our website was in development and have begun to get to know the wonderful hair community! There are so many fantastic photos on Instagram showcasing amazing hair work.

Our website is designed to offer hairdressing and barbering students and apprentices – as well as anyone else interested in hair – a place to learn, get inspiration, read the latest news, find information about industry brands and much more. My favourite section on our new website, www.concepthairmag.co.uk , is the Inspiration page which is full of astounding, diverse images that will hopefully help you on your journey.

We hope the website offers you everything you need to assist you through your qualifications and that you enjoy it as much as we do – and that you come back again and again! We will be constantly updating the site with news, interviews and how-to videos.

Make sure you follow us on social media – our handle for all platforms is @ConceptHairMag. We are active on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook and LinkedIn and would love to interact with you, share your work or just have a chat!

curls Often referred to with a grimace and a quick smoothing down of the hair on my part, they have not been something I would refer to as ‘friends’ in the past. At school I would gaze enviously at the majority of girls in my class, with their straight, luscious, thick locks and then think disdainfully about how I felt like a walking, frizzy cloud of fluff. Super jealous, not even denying it.

But making this magazine has changed the way I now think about curls. In fact, you might say that I am now – yes, I’ll say it - embracing them. Gone is my embarrassment and squirminess when I’m in a room full of people with shiny, perfect hair. Arrived is my curly hair pride.

How? Why? Did I wake up suddenly with an epiphany or get hit on the head by a can of hairspray? No, I did not (that I remember, anyway). I simply found the right salon and the right products for me and now I am curl crazy!

Let’s start with the salon that solved this.

Name: Spring. Location: Birmingham.

Speciality: curls and nothing but curls.

#EditorFilter

digital column

Trending

Autumn 2018 / Trending

Dates for your diary If you have curly hair yourself, you will know how much of a nightmare it can be to find someone who can cut curls properly. We’re a different breed, us curly wurlys, and it takes The One to make those ringlets bounce in all the right places and all the right directions. And Spring is The One for me.

The stylist didn’t even hesitate, snipping away with confidence, treating each curl individually (really!) and within no time I’d been given the best haircut of my life.

I left the building with a Beyoncé strut and posted on Instagram about it immediately, of course.

Next was finding the right products. In the past I have been that lazy person who gets whatever might work and is on sale in the supermarket, I confess. But have no fear, Schwarzkopf have changed my lazy ways. I was kindly sent some of the most exciting post ever when their Mad About Curls range was delivered to my office. It took a bit of mix and matching, but I knew when I’d found my dream team: the Mad About Curls High Foam Cleanser + Mad About Curls Two-way Conditioner + Mad About Curls Light Whipped Foam = a gazillion compliments! I have genuinely never before had so much positive feedback about my hair and it has boosted my curly confidence to the max.

So all in all, gone are the days of ringlet redemption – these days I am one proud curly girly!

Salon International 13th, 14th & 15th October HJ Live North 21st & 22nd October Colour Project & Project X 5th November

fun facts Eugène Schueller - the founder of L'Oréal - is recognised for creating the first synthetic hair dye in 1907.

The world’s longest hair (female) documented was in China. It belonged to a lady called Xie Qiuping and it measured a whopping 5.627m (18 ft 5.54 in).

BY B EC K Y M A RTI N

“

I found the right salon and the right products for me and now I am curl crazy

”

Black is the most common hair colour in the world.

Concept Hair / 07

Autumn 2018 \ Competition

COMPETITION ALERT This issue’s fabulous prize is…NEW INVIGO FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS

Modern life no longer fits into the 9-5 – it’s hard to find the time to slow down, breathe and recharge both physically and emotionally. With rest and relaxation being at the bottom of the to-do list, it is no wonder that this is reflected in our hair, which is often left neglected as we struggle to get to that salon appointment, or only have time for a super quick cut and blow dry.

With this in mind, Wella Professionals introduces INVIGO, a new brand and high-performance care line designed to recharge your hair quickly and effectively whilst also answering all your hair needs. Developed with INVIGOBlends - a trio of NEW Advanced Technology, Super Ingredients and Vitamins, INVIGO instantly invigorates both your hair and well-being. In just a few minutes hair is instantly transformed from lacklustre to full of life again.

Within INVIGO there are 6 ranges, each targeting a specific hair concern: • Color Brilliance for instant colour vibrancy • Nutri-Enrich for instant nourishment • Volume Boost for visibly uplifted volume* • Blonde Recharge for blonde brightness • Color Recharge for instant conditioning with colour pigments • Balance for individual scalp and hair needs, with caring and refreshing ingredients *vs non-conditioning shampoo

TO ENTER:

Simply send an email to admin@sng-publishing.co.uk and put ‘Wella INVIGO’ as the email title. We’ll pick the lucky winner at random and notify them via email by 25th January 2019.

Good luck!

The Concept Hair full privacy policy is available aT www.concepthairmag.co.uk/privacy-policy

www.wella.co.uk WellaHairUK

08 / Concept Hair

WellaUK

Autumn 2018 / Interview

the interview

errol douglas

Errol Douglas has had a remarkable career, from starting his hairdressing journey aged 11 to receiving an MBE for services to hairdressing.

He is widely considered to be one of the most influential hairdressers in the world and is the Ambassador and Patron of Honour for the Fellowship for British Hairdressing.

His list of previous clients includes Brad Pitt, Naomi Harris, Charlize Theron, Emilia Fox, Lewis Hamilton and Diana Ross.

We spoke to Errol about why he thinks hairdressing is one of the ‘coolest careers around.’ Concept Hair / 09

Autumn 2018 \ Interview Concept Hair: How did you get into hairdressing?

Errol Douglas: I started hair when I was about 11 or 12. I used to go to my mum’s hairdressers and I knew I wanted to do it when I was about five or six.

It wasn’t an apprenticeship that I did; my mum’s friend Mrs Johnson was a hairdresser. She was very accommodating. Instead of my mum leaving me with a childminder she left me with her hairdresser! From then on, the rest is history.

CH: When did you get your first job as a hairdresser?

ED: My first break was at a place called Roger Hart, based in Blackfriars. That particular place was surrounded by all the magazines and we had all the editors coming in from there. In that period of my life, as an assistant, we did everybody - all the editors, a lot of celebrities. That’s where I first met Liz and Paul Edmonds, who become very famous hairdressers in their day. I was with them from 16 until about 19 or 20. I was then at Neville Daniel, who were very famous.

CH: When did you start to gain fame for your work?

ED: I was the youngest artistic director in London at the time I qualified at 20. I was the artistic director at Neville Daniel for a while and went to Paul Edmonds when he opened up his salon.

That’s when I started all my photographic work: I did London Fashion Week, I did my session work from there and that was a great beginning for all the visual stuff. If you ask what I’m famous for people will say it’s more photographic, shows and TV.

CH: When did you open up your own salon?

ED: In 1998, in the heart of Knightsbridge. I have over 60 people working for me. We have trained hundreds of hairdressers – hundreds! We just train constantly.

CH: What other work do you do outside of your own salon?

ED: I’m very involved with the Fellowship. I was president for two years. My main directive of being president there was to open up the Fellowship more in the north – Scotland, Liverpool, Manchester.

I am always travelling, doing shows, seminars. I mentor a lot of people. We run college competitions and I work a lot with Lee Stafford by helping judge colleges. Lee is an independent hairdresser and is one of the biggest to get involved in the college education side. I have been nominated and shortlisted for the British Hairdressing Awards for a long time. I’m in the Hall of Fame for the award and I’m the longest running hairdresser to be nominated every year – this is my 22nd nomination.

The big revolution is the barber

“

”

I haven’t won it yet but I will! I’m the youngest hairdresser to get an MBE, in 2008. You get that for services to hairdressing, education and teaching and your charity work. I do a lot with various charities in London.

Autumn 2018 / Interview globally and a lot of people engage with me on Instagram if I put a hairstyle up or am put up for an award. I don’t have to wait, people can see it and can comment on it. And look how big hairdressing is on YouTube.

CH: Why would you recommend getting into the industry?

ED: The majority of people don’t really know what we do. They think it is about washing hair, not getting anywhere, not getting any qualifications. But hairdressing has got to be one of the focal points of fashion really. It’s an amazing career because it’s so diverse.

Once upon a time, the hairdresser was known for just having a shop but celeb hairdressers were born from Vidal Sassoon, John Frieda, Trevor Sorbie, Nicky Clarke and I’m in that genre now. It’s a great career - you have the high street hairdresser, the celeb hairdresser, fashion, chain and now the big revolution is the barber. Hairdressing is about being an entrepreneur; I’m an entrepreneur.

School leaving age is 18 now and if you work hard enough you can be on the floor by 19. You can be up there with the big boys. One of the things that won’t die on the high street is a hairdresser.

There’s no machine or anything that can mimic that.

CH: How do you use social media in your job?

ED: Whoever came up with Instagram is a genius, it’s even better than Facebook. I can look at my phone and if I’m doing research on haircuts, weddings or looking at a hotel I just put it in and it comes up, which I think is genius. There is the brilliant WhatsApp – imagine how many people you can speak to and inspire in a group. I have a WhatsApp group with certain teams, e.g. receptionists, senior teams, artistic teams, photographers. I travel a lot

CH: What do you think about education in hair?

ED: For me, it’s so diverse, you need to understand and embrace what is happening right now. You have to have the fundamentals which get you where you are. Colleges and places like that have to understand they need to get people into a good brand name - for example on the high street - who can train you in the contemporary side of hair. It’s really important to understand the market. If I came out of a college and somebody said do a shoot, for example, that’s not a bad thing but I wouldn’t necessarily know what the trends are. I have to know what is trendy three or four seasons ahead, four or five months ahead. I have to know if short hair is coming back, layers, block fringes, convex fringes.

Some people just specialise in cutting, colouring, extensions or get into trichology, which is massive.

“

You can be up there with the big boys

”

CH: Who is the most remarkable client you’ve had?

ED: Lewis Hamilton. I have been doing his hair for a while and I’ve never really met somebody so driven before.

His career is his life. He just trains and trains - and drives. It’s an amazing thing to be the fastest man on four wheels. I do quite a few supermodels, a lot of actresses, a lot of theatre people come to us. We are very fortunate and the brand often gets recommended. It’s not just about me: we have a solid team.

In the salon I have an afro department, an extension department, we have a

good junior artistic team, a senior team, we deal a lot with patients who suffer or who have suffered from leukaemia and hair loss.

CH: If you could cut anybody’s hair who would it be?

ED: I’m going to be a bloke now!

Jennifer Lawrence. I think she is really versatile and she embodies young, cool and trendy. People know the presence of Jennifer Lawrence. Imagine if Errol Douglas cut Jennifer Lawrence’s hair, that would go viral! People like Rihanna I’ve done backstage stuff with, but there’s nothing as powerful as a Hollywood movie star. For a man – Tom Hardy. I’d love to do his hair or something with him. Tom has had just one hairstyle and I’d love him to grow his hair or do something. It’s always shaved or the same roll. If I could do something good with him, it’d be amazing.

CH: What do you do outside of work?

ED: I’ve got three amazing kids. I am an avid collector of antiques - crystal, silver, a massive watch collection. I love artefacts – I collect a lot of things.

Not a lot of people would know that unless they came into my home, but you would find me in the weirdest places looking for inspiration. That’s what it is to me, inspiration. I also travel a lot with my job.

Autumn 2018 \ Advertorial

tish & snooky In 1977, sisters and former Blondie back-up singers Tish & Snooky created the MANIC PANIC® brand (beginning with their Manic Panic store on St. Marks Place – the first punk boutique in America), specialising in products reflecting their rock & roll roots. Still based in NYC, the internationallydistributed line is best known for its rainbow assortment of MANIC PANIC® hair colour, which is cruelty-free and contains only vegan ingredients .

Manic Panic has the largest range of alternative/fun/ fashion colours to choose from in the industry, which is why stylists and colourists all over the world choose us!

O

ur colour has been seen on many celebs over the years, including Katy Perry , Demi Lovato, Gwen Stefani, Miley Cyrus, Nick Jonas, Rita Ora , Rihanna, Jared Leto, Kylie Jenner, Kim Kardashian and so many more.

Manic Panic’s growth has all but exceeded Tish and Snooky’s wildest dreams. Today, Manic Panic is a leading cutting-edge hair colour and cosmetics company that is innovative, inspirational, and often imitated by competitors who try and emulate the Manic Panic style. What is the secret to their success? “We don’t just sell it, we LIVE it,” say Tish and Snooky.

Our High Voltage Classic Dye has been the centre of vivid hair colour for over 40 years and we have recently released a professional-only range with

12 / Concept Hair

“We don’t just sell it, we LIVE it ”

a formula that lasts up to 40 washes!

Along with the Professional colour comes our education, led by our Brand Ambassadors and Educators such as Steven Austin and Vicki Hoskin.

We offer a range of different education to suit all levels of qualification, including academy classes and workshops that come to your college. The class includes a demonstration from one of our amazing educators, all the theory you need to know AND a chance to get hands on and creative with our vivid colour! All students receive certification from MPUK and an awesome goody bag with discount codes.

If you are interested in holding a workshop for your students please contact:

education@manic-panic.co.uk

Autumn 2018 \ Feature Multi-award winning RUSH Hair was co-founded in 1994 by Andy Phouli and Stell Andrew. From their initial salon in Wimbledon, RUSH Hair has expanded from their southern stronghold to 90 salons spanning the country from Manchester to Bristol. Priding itself on its creativity and accessibility, RUSH Hair is the fastest growing salon group in the UK.

rush hair

STELL ANDREW, CEO AND CO-FOUNDER – “When Andy Phouli and I opened our first RUSH Hair salon, we dreamed of becoming a multi-salon group and opening our very own training academy to share with other hairdressers our passion, ideas, inspiration and philosophy. With hard work and commitment our dream has become a reality.”

superstar Rainbow Room International

The first Rainbow Room International Salon opened on Glasgow’s Buchanan Street in 1979, and the brand has fast grown into one that is synonymous with quality, luxury and innovation. Now the largest salon group in Scotland, with 12 salons along with an incredible training academy and haircare range, the group is a haven for all things creative.

ALAN AND LINDA STEWART, DIRECTORS - “The goal from the beginning was to create a salon concept that was considered visionary and that would provide the highest standards of hairdressing, customer care and training whilst also providing the team with lifelong careers. Throughout the years this has never changed, and with hard work it has allowed us to become the largest salon group in Scotland.”

Aberdeen-based Ishoka Hair and Beauty encapsulates everything that is great about a hairdressing and beauty salon. Thirty years ago, Malcolm MacNeil, Philip Bell and Kathryn Longmuir all had a dream of bringing the luxury of London salons to the north, and providing clients with the ultimate salon experience and the highest of standards available within the hairdressing and beauty industries.

MALCOLM MACNEIL, PARTNER – “Here at Ishoka Hair and Beauty, we had one goal –throughout our 30+ year journey we have created a haven of relaxation for those based in the North of Scotland, a destination salon for those who live outside the hustle and bustle of London.”

14 / Concept Hair

Ishoka Hair and Beauty

Autumn 2018 / Feature Opened in Edinburgh in 2007, Neil Barton Hairdressing is now seen as the number one colour destination in the Scottish capital. Neil and his team pride themselves on their inspirational colour and cutting techniques, fashion-forward knowledge and creativity, providing each and every client with the ultimate salon experience.

Neil Barton

NEIL BARTON, OWNER - “Having worked internationally as an Ambassador for Goldwell, I always knew I wanted to have a base and opened my own salon in Edinburgh in 2007. For me it’s a great way to keep my feet on the ground and tend to my clients whilst also keeping up with my educational seminars in and around the UK and of course internationally.”

salons KAM Hair and Body Spa

Offering a whole range of hair and beauty treatments, KAM Hair and Body Spa, located in Lossiemouth, is an incredibly successful award-winning salon. Situated in a small town, the salon has a hard-working and committed team with exceptional knowledge in all areas of hair and beauty. It has fast become a must-visit salon for those situated in and around the far North of Scotland.

KAREN THOMPSON, OWNER - “When I opened KAM over 25 years ago I’d never imagined how successful the salon would become. From working in the salon to educating with global brand Matrix and also competing and entering industry awards, the industry and my own salon base has given myself and my team incredible opportunities.”

Situated in the heart of London’s W1, Muse of London is one of the city’s most-loved hair salons, providing clients with the upmost in hair and beauty services whilst being a creative haven for those looking for a professional and quick hair and beauty service. Always creatively thinking, the quirky salon offers everything from natural balayage to creative colours, with the salon stylists expertly trained in all services.

Muse of London

CARLY PRICE, PARTNER - “Within Muse all our team members are trained to the highest standards and we offer the upmost in hair and beauty services. Within the salon we understand the importance of embracing the times and ensure we move forward with current trends and technology wherever possible.”

Concept Hair / 15

Autumn 2018 \ Feature

APPRENTICE 101: The looks I’m most proud of Bleu Campbell, 20, began her apprenticeship at Alchemy in Moreton-inMarsh in May this year with City and Guilds. She’s a people person with a passion for colouring! She has already gone from strength to strength so we asked her to show off her best looks to date.

I should be doing but I don’t know why: it was staring me in the face! It’s nice to make people feel good about themselves because I know what it feels like when I go to a salon.

CH: How did you get your apprenticeship?

BLEU: I knew [Alchemy owner] Tom from working in another salon previously, doing hairwashing when I was doing my GCSEs. He’d recently opened the salon and I called him and asked if he wanted an apprentice.

Concept Hair: Why do you want to pursue a career in hairdressing?

Bleu Campbell: I’ve always been creative and interested in hair and beauty. I’ve had a lot of jobs and it took me a while to realise this was what

16 / Concept Hair

CH: What’s your favourite thing about your apprenticeship?

BLEU: Doing an apprenticeship in a salon is brilliant because it enables you to experience from the get-go what the environment is like and you literally learn as you work. I love colouring hair.

I really like seeing the difference in

terms of the before and after looks.

CH: What do you hope to do in the future?

BLEU: Once I’m qualified I’m looking forward to being able to get my own clients at Alchemy. I like working in the salon because I’m good with people. I’d like to do a beauty course after getting qualified in hair. Long term, in maybe five years’ time, I’d like to work in the TV or film industry, to do things behind the scenes.

CH: What would be your ideal customer request?

BLEU: At the moment, probably a bright red or any bright colour. Maybe one bright colour going into another one…something interesting. It would be great if someone said ‘do what you want!’

www.alchemyhairdressing.com

Autumn 2018 / Advertorial

introducing… habia kits The first student hairdressing kit designed around the new standards by the people who created the standards.

Why should you choose Habia kits?

In co-operation with Rand Rocket, Habia has created high quality hairdressing and barbering kits that are designed around the latest educational standards using carefully selected brands such as Jaguar and STR so you know these items will last you. Our kits contain only the best quality items, all with a 12-month guarantee! Unlike some kits, you will no longer need to be replacing items first time as Habia kits are built to last. As a thank you, Habia will also promote you through our social media channels.

Kit Options At Habia, we understand that each college and training provider has different needs for their students so we want to cater around you and your requirements.

There are 3 hairdressing and barbering kits that we supply, which are the student, elite and professional kit, with professional being most popular as they contain the STR hairdryer, Jaguar straighteners and Wahl Clippers for the barbering. We also offer a bespoke service. You can mix and match items or create a completely bespoke kit to tailor to your needs. Each kit comes in a handy bag to keep your items together and they have been measured to fit in student lockers. You can also personalise your bag and include the company logo on the front!

We are currently offering additional extras when purchasing the Habia kits. These are: • Complementary suite of downloadable step by steps to use as a teaching resource • Complementary tutor support units to help with your teaching across the department • Free Habia membership for all students Prices are excellent value for money with up to £45 saving per student and starting from £90+vat!

For more information on the kits, please visit https://www.habia.org/kits/ or call our sales team on 01302 774930

Subject to order

Concept Hair / 17

Autumn 2018 \ Advertorial

from classroom to catwalk

As an exclusively professional haircare and styling brand, Indola is perfectly placed to enable students and freelance hairdressers to create on-trend looks, simply and smartly.

A

vailable from wholesalers across the UK and designed on a three-step care system, the Indola range is compact yet powerful, meaning you only need to buy a handful of products, which you can mix and match to create hundreds of collection-worthy looks. And thanks to the in-built smartphone compatible NFC technology on its styling products, you’ll know instantly how to use new ranges.

Indola believes in a digital first philosophy, meaning you are never more than a swipe away from great hair inspo, styling advice & product know-how. As a brand that resonates with Gen Z hairdressers, each year Indola unveils its ‘Smart Street Style Collection’ via Instagram and Facebook before anywhere else; helping you to hone your eye as you share and ‘like’ the looks. And for the days when you need assignment support, Indola’s website

and official YouTube channel are packed with step-by-steps, stylists’ tips and product advice.

For offers, news and Indola street sass sign-up to its monthly newsletter via Instagram @IndolaUK

ssc collection Urban Ease is a bold and beautiful blue, created with the brand new Indola #colorblaster pigmented conditioner.

Striking, flawless and simple to create, it’s a colour must-have for stylists who like to pack a punch with their tones.

Worn with tousled, lived-in waves or loosely thrown up into a twisted topknot, this is cool-girl colour at its best.

The Royal Lux trend is an update on luxe beauty; highly-personalised blonde, enhanced with Indola Color Transformer for a glistening shine from root to tip. This luxe look is all about sleek polish, neat finishes and flawless updos, for the ultimate in modern glamour.

Be bold #colorblaster Launching this autumn, Indola’s #colorblaster system of pigmented conditioners allow for try-on colours to suit every style. From pastel shades of pink, blue, mint-green and silver-grey through to bold statements of chocolate brown, red and gold-blonde as well as an accompanying neutralizer to remove brassy-tones, the colour blasters promise Instatrending looks, for up to 10 washes.

18 / Concept Hair

Reach out

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Discover NEW #colorblaster Update your colour status with caring washout toning conditioners for insta-trending looks that are sure to get you liked.

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Visit your local Wholesaler to find out more

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#Simply Smarter

Autumn 2018 \ Feature

Telford College hosts its biggest hairdressing competition to date We caught up with Head of Hairdressing, Kerrie Treharne, who has been teaching at Telford College for twelve years. She told us all about the stellar event.

extremely proud of “I’mtheir commitment”

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Autumn 2018 / Feature

Concept Hair: Tell us a bit about the competition!

Kerrie Treharne: We have set it up so that it covers one unit of the entrants’ qualification and this year we had five groups taking part. We theme it for them, so for example we made the theme ‘prom’ for the Level 2s because all of the contestants have to get their resources themselves and they will have their prom dresses still to hand. The Level 3 group however were given the theme of an ‘avant garde’ look, something that is not worn every day.

CH: How were the models chosen?

KT: They all had to get their own models who were above 16-years-old, so most people brought along family and friends.

CH: How many students took part?

KT: This year we had 65 entries. I’m delighted with the standard because every year it gets higher, and the Level 2s see the Level 3s and they improve after watching what they do.

CH: Were there any new categories this year?

KT: This year we had a ‘barbering’ category for the first time. All of our barbers took part and did a current guys’ haircut. We also had a ‘best mood board’ award and they went all out! We had chests of drawers, books, all sorts.

We now have them on display in reception.

CH: How much time were they given?

KT: They were given two hours for all of the categories except the Level 3 ‘avant garde’, which had a completion time of three hours as they had to add in hair, which is more work.

CH: Who were the judges?

KT: The judges were Neami Owen, Louise Price and L’Oréal Colour Specialist Darren Garbett. All of them have done demonstrations for the students and it’s inspiring for them to see these kinds of successful people, they love it.

CH: What would you say is the best thing about this competition?

KT: Their passion, keenness and dedication, and the planning that they put behind it. I’m extremely proud of their commitment.

CH: Have you got any new plans for next year?

KT: Next year I’d like to invite salon owners in and I’d like to do the layout differently. The themes will be adjusted and we will probably follow the trend at the time for the ‘barbering’ group and maybe swap the ‘through the eras’ theme for something else. We like to change it about!

What was it like to take part?

Diana Kibelkyte, 22, has just completed her Level 2 and she was the ‘through the years’ category winner.

She said: “This was a really good opportunity to apply ourselves. We were learning the basics but this was an opportunity to try something new. I was really impressed with all of the hairstyles and I’m pleased with myself, too.

Practicing for the competition at home it all went quite badly, but at the end of the day when I did my last look it looked amazing, so much better than at home. I was very happy with the end result.”

https://www.tcat.ac.uk/courses/full-time/hairdressing/ Concept Hair / 21

Autumn 2018 \ Interview

the interview

GAVIN TAYLOR Making the cut: Why I ditched the kitchen for the salon

Gavin Taylor is a salon owner who began his working life as a chef after the ‘stigma’ of becoming a hairdresser caused him to choose a different path.

However, after a few years he began an apprenticeship at Toni & Guy aged 18, and spent three years training in London before returning to the Midlands to work for a stylist who used to work for Nicky Clarke.

He then ran a mobile salon for seven years before finally owning his own premises in Leicestershire – and puts his success down to persistence.

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Autumn 2018 / Interview Concept Hair: How did you get to the stage you are at now?

Gavin Taylor: I started off as a chef when I left school. I wanted to be a hairdresser but there was a stigma attached to it, with people saying things like, ‘you’re not very clever’ and I even got comments like, ‘you’ve got to be gay.’ That’s at 14/15 - and you take those opinions seriously. So I chose to train as a chef, which I don’t regret now, but I didn’t start hairdressing until I was 18/19.

CH: Where did you do your apprenticeship?

GT: I started my apprenticeship at Toni & Guy. It was amazing: the training, the discipline. I spent three years there completing my training. I went down to London to complete that and got some amazing experience from London to bring that back to the Midlands, which was really encouraging to inspire the younger people coming up.

CH: How did you find being an apprentice?

GT: Being an apprentice on £40 a week at the time, it was really difficult catching two buses, doing two late nights, a training night every week.

There was a lot of graft. I was never put off but a lot of younger people including myself if I’d started when I was 15 or 16 - may not have completed it.

CH: What did you do after Toni & Guy? GT: The stylist I used to work for opened an independent hairdressers in an affluent area of Leicestershire. I went to be the manager stylist there and he took me under his wing really. I was his protégé. He used to work for Nicky Clarke so he had lots of knowledge and expertise. I thought if I stuck with him I wouldn’t go far wrong - it’s the best decision I made. I was able to gain more experience as a manager and go on my own path rather than following a brand.

CH: How many apprentices do you take on?

GT: We have two apprentices at the minute; we take on two every year roughly. Some make it, some don’t, some decide it’s not for them, but I think what we do here is change attitudes and encourage and create confidence in a young person. We have one junior stylist now who was going to leave hairdressing altogether because she hated the salon she was working at. Her college tutor told her to try here and she’s never looked back. Two years later, she’s earning good money on her way to becoming a good asset and fantastic hairdresser.

CH: When did you begin running your own business?

GT: I worked there for seven years until I decided to go mobile. It was a chapter in my life where I gained experience in running my own business, which was perfect. I did that for a further seven years until we found these premises now, which I waited two years for.

CH: What advice would you give to current apprentices?

GT: I’d always say it’s all about persistence, it’s all about sticking to your dream. You will always reach it if you persist and are determined.

Don’t let anyone else put you off.

Ignore the sceptics.

CH: How are apprenticeships useful for you, as an employer?

GT: From our point of view, apprenticeships are the absolutely only way you can become a hairdresser. You can’t do it through university or school, you need to learn and train on the job.

Apprenticeships offer that gateway for younger people, especially creative young people, to have the opportunity to learn a skill. It’s a win-win situation.

We have help in the salon, they get trained, so it’s a bit of a pay-off because they don’t get paid as much.

www.gavintaylorhair.uk

say it’s all about persistence, “it’sI’d allalways about sticking to your dream” Concept Hair / 23

My best “advice is to just get on set and go for it and enjoy it!

”

A day in the life… of a photoshoot Working on photoshoots is a dream for many hairstylists, but what really goes into life on set? We spoke to Gary Taylor from Edward and Co salon in Yorkshire to find out.

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Autumn 2018 / Feature

T

he work for a photoshoot starts long before you get on set; the planning and preparation stage is essential and helps everything run smoothly on the day. But it’s also important to remember that things don’t always go to plan and things can change when the model shows up onset – so do as much planning as possible, but then be prepared for things to change!

Ahead of the shoot, you’ll need to bring your team together – the photographer, makeup artist and stylist, as well as anyone else like an art director and nail technician. Together you’ll come up with a theme for the shoot, and start to flesh out ideas. Mood boards are perfect for this, and you can create them on sites like Pinterest which makes it easier for everyone to contribute.

Next, you need to find your models.

The team should all have a good idea of the kind of model you want, based on your concept and theme. You can choose between agency models or street cast models, and there are definite pros and cons to both. Agency models are obviously much more professional and are used to looking great on camera, but

are generally not allowed to have their hair cut or coloured, so your options are limited. Street cast models – family, friends, clients, or just people that you spot in the street – are usually more willing to have different styles, but might not be as comfortable on camera.

With all of those decisions made, you can then start to put together a plan of the looks you intend to do – sketch them out or take photos on your phone of practice runs, so that you can consider what you need to do, and the order in which you need to do it. For example, if you’re using one model for two looks, it makes sense to do a hair down look before an updo, so that the hair isn’t full of product.

Once you’ve got your team together and a plan, it’s shoot day! The day starts extremely early, and you may well have spent the day before prepping your models – if they’re having colour or cut done, it’s better to do it in advance so you’re not wasting valuable time on the day. A solution to that is to come prepared with wigs or hairpieces, so that you can perform quick changes or get multiple looks from one model.

It’s important to start a shoot with a quick briefing so everyone knows the

plan for the day – including the nitty gritty things like start time and end time; studios and models can charge a fortune if you run over, so it’s important to try and stick to timings as much as possible. I like to pin up mood board images around the studio so we all know our inspirations and ideas for the day and can refer back to the references when we need to.

It’s good to get the first shot of the day done as quickly as possible; it’s easy to spend ages faffing around with the first look because everyone’s nervous and keen to get it perfect, but just get the shot, then keep going – you can always come back to it if you need to.

Get the music on, make sure everyone is relaxed and having a good time and just keep going. As the hairdresser, you need to be on hand – looking at the photographer’s screen and keeping an eye on the model too, for any stray hairs across the face or loose bits.

You can do as much prep as you want for a shoot, but it’s not until you get the model on set, in her outfit, makeup on, that you see everything together for the first time and get a real understanding of the look. My best advice is to just get on set and go for it – and enjoy it!

gary’s top tips for a smooth shoot: 1. Make sure you know the name of the model (and everyone else on set); referring to them as ‘the model’ is really bad practice, and bad manners too.

2. Have plenty of snacks and water on set to keep everyone happy – a well-fed, hydrated team is a happy one. Healthy snacks are also great for keeping the energy up on what can be a long, stressful day.

3. Get a playlist going – it lifts the mood, sets the tone for a shoot and also helps the models get into character and feel comfortable on camera.

4. Talk regularly as a team about what’s working and what you’re not happy with: it’s better to speak up and feel awkward temporarily than go home with shots you’re not happy with.

Concept Hair / 25

Autumn 2018 \ Feature

Introducing: The Collective Schwarzkopf Professional is celebrating its 120th anniversary this year and they are introducing their exciting new digital influencer program called The Collective.

The exclusive 12-person team is made up of 12 digitally-active Schwarzkopf Professional hairdressers from across the UK and Ireland, all of whom produce beautiful, relevant and engaging social media. Together, they will go on to enjoy exclusive opportunities and education, aiming to establish themselves as the next generation of hairdressing influencers.

The chosen members of The Collective will receive a host of impressive benefits, including regular hands-on workshops covering social media skills and photography, previews and samples of product

launches, tickets to relevant industry events, opportunities to assist backstage at Schwarzkopf Professional events, a photography kit, access to new product launches ahead of the market and membership of Creative Head’s Coterie, The Fellowship for British Hairdressing and State Registration.

In return, Schwarzkopf Professional will benefit from exclusive content produced

by The Collective members, as well as exciting and engaged brand champions – who are genuinely proud to spread the word for the brand, both in their salons and beyond.

The 12 members of The Collective are: Sophie Gibson Hooker & Young, Newcastle, @sg_hairportfolio Matt Surplice Spring is in the Hair, Birmingham, @springisinthehair Dan Mewies Mewies & Indy Quorn, @danmewieshair Grace Blackburn Barrie Stephen, Leicester, @graceblackburnhair_

26 / Concept Hair

Will Lamb Daniel Granger Hairdressing, Northampton, @willlambhair Cherelle Sinclair Peter Marcus, Manchester, @csbeautywork Austen Thomson Austen Thomson, Edinburgh, @austenthomsonhair Ashley Gamble Ashley Gamble Hairdressing, Shifnal, @ashleygamblehair

Alix Maher Lynda Maher, Ireland, @alixmaher_creativecolour Irfan Sumbul Choppy Cuts, London, @choppycut10 Will Eagles Cream, Cheltenham & Gloucester, @wmeagles Diana Carson Rainbow Room International, Uddingston, @diana.carson8

Autumn 2018 / Feature

Errol’s ideal apprentice Errol Douglas MBE does lots of training in his salon, so we wanted to know the top traits that he looks for in an apprentice.

You have to be willing to learn and receptive to criticism Hairdressing is very much about being artistic and inventing and coming up with new ideas. Every time I do a collection I come up with a new idea.

Our collections are famous, everybody copies them - it inspires so many people. You are directed by your seniors in the salon.

Discipline in timekeeping It’s everything, there’s no point even getting into this profession if you are going to be late or not on time.

It’s important: you can’t keep a client waiting.

Enthusiasm and knowing you really want to do hair There’s no point in saying, ‘I’m thinking about it’. Hairdressing is a vocation and it’s about fashion. You can tell that 100 per cent. I don’t take anyone on who I don’t think is passionate about our craft.

Patience To become a hairdresser, you have to be the most patient person in the world.

When you qualify you can be impatient,

but at this particular time you have to be patient. You are on your feet all day, you have to mix well with clients and at the same time you are directed by your seniors in the salon.

Discretion We know a lot of secrets. We know a lot of things we shouldn’t and ultimately, we get told things which could bring down people and governments!

You have to be artistic People say you can teach people to be artistic, but I don’t think you can. You have to have that strain or string to start with. If you are artistic, I can teach you a lot. If you are not inclined to be that and your mind can’t comprehend that, there’s no point in us even having a conversation or coming on an apprenticeship.

Concept Hair / 27

Autumn 2018 \ Interview

MEET THE L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY 2018 EASTERN REGION WINNER Darcy Noller is a hair stylist at The Gallery Haircutters based on the outskirts of Norwich. She began working at the salon straight from school as an apprentice aged 16. Despite now being only 21 years old – and just 20 at the time of entering, she was part of the salon’s team which won the Eastern region award at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2018 Grand Final for the second year in a row.

was an amazing “Itexperience ”

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Autumn 2018 / Interview

the interview

DARCY NOLLER

We caught up with Darcy after the show, which was held at Battersea Evolution in London on 4th June.

Concept Hair: How did you begin your career as a hairdresser?

Darcy Noller: I’ve been at the salon for five years – I started off straight from school as an apprentice. The last year-and-a-bit I have gotten onto the salon floor. The last couple of years, I’ve helped out with Colour Trophy and I thought this year, I wasn’t sure on doing it first of all, but I thought, ‘actually, I’ll give it a go and see where I get.’

CH: How did you feel when you won the award?

DN: It was an amazing experience, I never thought I’d ever get through to regional finals. I didn’t think it was as massive as it was. It was incredible. It was overwhelming. It was my first time doing it, and even to get through to the Grand Final was just amazing for me.

It’s such an experience just for that and winning out of the whole region actually meant a lot to me. From my point of view, I had to style the hair and keep calm, make sure that all was right in place, and prepare beforehand.

I helped with the colour as well.

CH: What qualifications and courses have you done so far?

DN: I’ve done a few courses - I’ve been on various cutting courses, a normal standing course, and a barbering course. I helped out with Norwich Fashion Week, I helped out with the Keeping Abreast breast cancer charity show: styling the hair, preparing the hair for the show. I’ve done a lot…I can’t even remember! I also applied for the GHD Style Squad.

CH: What are you hoping to achieve in your career?

DN: I’d like to be an ID Artist at L’Oreal, be sponsored by L’Oreal and see how we get on from there. Possibly in the future I’d like to be a colour specialist, as part of L’Oreal. Obviously, that’s in the future.

CH: Would you like to set up your own salon one day?

DN: You’d never say never!

You can follow Darcy @dj_noller or Adrian Dunham’s salon @thegalleryhaircutters.

Adrian Dunham is the owner of the salon, which has been established for 31 years.

CH: How did Darcy get involved with the award?

Adrian Dunham: Darcy is 21 years of age and she was taken on this journey with one of our senior colour technicians. The idea was to take one of the younger girls on the journey to give them experience and a platform to build their confidence. She hit the winning recipe which was brilliant for us. We were winners of it last year as well.

CH: How has it helped her?

AD: It’s been a brilliant learning curve for her. Most people work a lifetime and try to pick up an award in that context - she’s managed to do it at 21.

We have a great team spirit here and have had some good success with the L’Oreal Colour Trophy. It does require a good amount of hard work. We are a relatively small independent, but the L’Oreal Colour Trophy provides us with a level playing field. The idea is to come up with a forward thinking look.

www.thegalleryhaircutters.com Concept Hair / 29

Autumn 2018 \ Feature

love nothing “Imore than sharing my skills and expertise with those around me

”

From top student to top stylist Sophie Chandler, Company Consultant and RUSH Junior Artistic Team member, reveals how she transformed from successful student to award-winning stylist in an impressively short amount of time.

“I love everything about my career” 30 / Concept Hair

Autumn 2018 / Feature

Concept Hair: What made you decide that you wanted to get into hairdressing?

Sophie Chandler: From visiting a salon as a young girl I always loved everything about it, from the friendly atmosphere to the smell of the products and the chat in the salon. It was so fastpaced and exciting and it drew me in from the very beginning!

CH: How did you get your apprenticeship?

SC: When I was around 15, a time where art and creativity really took hold of me, RUSH opened their Croydon salon and everyone was talking about it. They were producing such incredible creative styles with a strong fashion element and it really drew me in. They broke the boundaries and I was hooked!

I applied first for a Saturday job as I was still at school. When I finished school later that year I started a full-time apprenticeship at RUSH Croydon.

CH: Where did you go from there once you were qualified?

SC: Since qualifying I work within our Croydon salon 5 days a week, working on clients and educating the team around me. I love nothing more than sharing my skills and expertise with those around me, that’s how we progress. I also come into the salon or the RUSH Academy on one of my days off to work on my creative skills.

It might be creating a mood board for a shoot or practicing a new technique or even helping the Art Team – I love everything about my career.

CH: What is your title now, and what does a normal day look like for you?

SC: I am now a Company Consultant and also a member of the RUSH Junior Artistic Team within the RUSH brand.

No day is ever the same but it is always filled with so much creativity and passion. One day I could be working in the salon on clients and the next I am at the Academy helping the Artistic Team on their latest photographic shoots.

It’s such an exciting team and I am very proud to be a part of it.

CH: What are you most proud of in your professional career so far?

SC: I’d have to say finalising for the British Hairdressing Awards, this has definitely been a highlight for me and it’s something I am incredibly proud of. Producing a photographic collection is such a huge task, especially when entering awards, however with the support of my team and mentors I worked tirelessly to produce the most amazing collections and in return finalised within the Newcomer of the Year category.

CH: What advice would you give to budding hairdressers?

SC: Work hard, focus on your education and push the boundaries.

Education is the foundation of our craft and you can never stop learning.

The industry is constantly evolving and it is important to focus at all times and move forward with the times. Don’t be afraid to push the boundaries – that is how new trends and techniques are developed!

Concept Hair / 31

Autumn 2018 \ Feature

REGULATING THE INDUSTRY The Hair and Barber Council’s first meeting of its new Junior Council took place in March this year.

T

he Junior Council is made up of a group of 18-26 year olds that share the vision of the Main Council, firmly believing that the hair and barber industry needs to be regulated.

This is the first time the Hair and Barber Council have directly interacted with the younger generation of hairdressers and barbers, with a vision of these rising stars of the industry working together with us to truly represent the views and opinions of the younger future generation of our great industry.

Keith Conniford, CEO and Registrar of the Hair and Barber Council, said: “The setting up of this brand new Junior Council is a significant step towards engaging with the younger generation of hairdressers and barbers, to absolutely include and represent their views on the future of our industry. We are all really excited about this initiative and can see many ways of how it can be developed in the coming months.”

32 / Concept Hair

The setting up of this “ brand new Junior Council is a significant step towards engaging with the younger generation of hairdressers and barbers

”

Anybody interested in joining the Junior Council in the future, please contact us on 0208 760 7010, or email registrar@haircouncil.org.uk NB: Applicants must be members of the Hair and Barber Council to be considered.

Autumn 2018 / Advertorial

Bettertons have seventy years’ experience in the scissor industry and we understand the importance of having equipment you can rely on.

That’s why we supply only the finest quality hairdressing scissors, thinning scissors, razors and accessories from around the world, including our own brand AMA. Our unprecedented and comprehensive range caters for all tastes and budgets, from beginner to top stylist, giving you the ultimate in choice.

Why buy that scissor, when that one looks nicer?

Hair by Ceri Cushen at Metropolis Hairdressing

in the know: scissors

Bettertons step by step guide to scissors

T

here are many cheaper quality scissors that look very nice on the market. Just because it looks nice doesn’t mean that the scissor has been well manufactured. Remember this is the most important tool you will use, take the time to find the right one for you.

With a good quality pair of scissors a stylist can change the way a person looks, making them appear younger, healthier, and even more attractive!

Boosting your clients’ self-esteem will help to boost your career.

Buying a lower quality scissor often has two aspects that will affect their cutting ability: inferior blades and poor quality materials. These can both damage the hair and give an unclean cutting line.

Symmetric (or Straight)

gebetterton.co.uk

Handles Seeing as it is the first point of contact, let’s start with the handles.

Below are the three main types of handle shapes – Symmetric (or Straight) , Semi-offset and Offset .

It is important to select the scissor which feels most comfortable for your cutting style.

Semi-offset

More hairdressers are now choosing offset scissors, as this design can reduce repetitive strain in the hand and arm.

Repetitive strain is caused by repeating the same movement over long periods of time, so we suggest having different styles, or to change between your scissors occasionally. This would alter your hand and arm movements, and help reduce fatigue.

Offset

Concept Hair / 33

Autumn 2018 \ Feature

There ain’t no party like a #PatchTestParty!

Casey Coleman, founder of CHAIR Salons, wants you to RSVP to his #PatchTestParty and he has a very good reason why.

A

t least 50% of UK salons don’t regularly skin test their clients and Casey is on the ultimate mission to change this.

It all started when he unexpectedly had to change colour companies, meaning he had to perform skin tests again on all of his existing clients. With this in mind, he said in passing to his clients that perhaps they should have a party to make this happen. And after conducting more research which taught him how big an issue patch testing is within the industry, the #PatchTestParty was born.

“If a client is getting something out of it they’re likely to be more receptive, so in April I held my first #PatchTestParty, where for the whole month anyone who had a patch test would receive £10 or 10% off their next colour bill,” says Casey. “This way people could come and go as they pleased. I also held one night where we had prosecco, gave out goody bags and performed skin tests.”

34 / Concept Hair

But Casey wants to emphasise that if a salon holds a #PatchTestParty, “it will be completely tailored to the person who is throwing it,” rather than sticking to one particular format, so it can be bespoke to suit the salon and whatever their own clientele will respond to.

a #PatchTestParty Pack for the next one, which will contain a placard that states that someone has hosted a party, as well as some rules on how to hold one, questions the client will need to be asked and things like that, to make it as straightforward as possible.

Casey originally trained to be a hairdresser in college, although he “fell into hairdressing” when he was studying Fashion Textiles at Sixth Form, when he walked into a salon and asked for a job. In regard to how patch tests were incorporated in his training, he said that “it was just another thing that you learnt, but since working [he’s] seen what happens when people react to colour. It’s a vital part of our industry as hairdressers are legally obliged to skin test every client.”

“A #PatchTestParty is a quick and fun way to make sure that something that is pretty mundane gets done. It’s dull but it’s a legal requirement. Never say no to an opportunity!”

It’s because of this that Casey now has even bigger ambitions.

After being nominated for some key industry awards within the ten years that he has been a fully qualified hairdresser, he would like to make the #PatchTestParty a biannual event, with the next one taking place in November.

He said, “We’ll have

You can visit CHAIR Salons at www.chairsalons.com or follow them on Instagram @chairsalons.

Autumn 2018 \ Look Book

A STUDENT’S WORK FROM A PHOTO SHOOT AT THE HAIRDRESSING AND MAKE-UP DEPARTMENT IN GREENOCK CAMPUS, WEST COLLEGE SCOTLAND This student is now qualified as a level 3 hairdresser. The model’s hair had extensions added and coloured to match her own hair.

Model @shannonhendry.x Hairby @natashahay_ Makeup by @ldalziel_hair_makeup_beauty Photographer @neilmacmillanphotography Follow them @hairandmakeupgreenockcampus

36 / Concept Hair

Autumn 2018 / Look Book

SIMON WEBSTER HAIR Hair by: Lora Griffin and Hannah De Frateschi at Simon Webster Hair Photography by: Chris Bulezuik Clothes design/styling by: Laura James Make-up by: Harleigh Slaughter

Concept Hair / 37

Autumn 2018 \ Look Book

38 / Concept Hair

Autumn 2018 / Look Book

AFFINAGE SALON PROFESSIONAL Hair by: Tracey Devine-Smith for Affinage Styling: Desiree Lederer Make-up: Maddie Austin Photography: Richard Miles Products: Affinage & ASP For information on Affinage call 01794 527111 or visit www.affinage.com

Concept Hair / 39

Autumn 2018 \ Look Book

40 / Concept Hair

Autumn 2018 \ Concept Barbering

Mike Taylor on Cutting, Shampooing and Shaving ABOUT MIKE TAYLOR Mike Taylor has been a barber for over 28 years, having opened his first barbershop in Newbury, Berkshire, aged 20. His passion, dedication and commitment to the craft has seen him establish a successful network of independent barber shops across the South of England.

Mike now spends most of his time teaching and assessing barbering NVQ qualifications, apprenticeship training and short barbering courses either at his training academy in Poole, Dorset, or at colleges, salons and barbershops across the UK and beyond.

CUTTING THE BARBERING INDUSTRY IS BOOMING AND CUTTING, NO DOUBT, IS THE MAIN TASK OF THE JOB. KEEPING YOUR SKILLS AND TECHNIQUES UP TO DATE WILL ENSURE YOU HAVE A GOOD CLIENT BASE–THEREFORE SECURING A JOB FOR LIFE.

CUTTING TECHNIQUES CLUB CUTTING – This technique is when the hair is cut bluntly, straight across. It is used to remove length but retain bulk and can be done on wet or dry hair.

42 / Concept Hair

POINT CUTTING – This technique is used to texturise the hair and remove bulk. The amount of weight you remove depends on the angle you cut in at. This can be done on wet or dry hair.

THINNING – Using the thinning scissors will remove bulk without removing any length. They are ideal for use on medium to thick hair to remove weight and texture the ends. This should only be used on the mid lengths and ends of the hair and you must be careful not to overuse as this can cause wispy ends. Only use on dry hair.

FREEHAND CUTTING – For this technique, the hair is combed into place and cut freehand – without any tension.

Ideal to use on fringes and hair lines as it leaves the hair to sit naturally, therefore not causing the hair to ‘jump up’ when the tension is released or the hair is dried.

RAZOR CUTTING – This technique is used to remove bulk and create a softer look. It should not be used on fine hair and should mainly be used on wet hair.

Mike Taylor

Autumn 2018 / Concept Barbering

OVER COMB TECHNIQUE Barbers perfect their short hair work by using a clipper or scissor over comb technique.

SCISSOR OVER COMB - This is achieved by holding your comb in your less dominant hand and your scissors in your dominant hand. The comb is used to lift the hair up and the scissors follow the comb. Cut the hair to the desired length by cutting the hair that is left in front of the comb’s teeth. This needs to be done relatively quickly to avoid getting lines.

LAYER OVER COMB - A traditional barbering technique performed by placing your closed scissors in to lift your section and then place the comb in and bring out to the desired length and cut. Carry on repeating this technique in 1cm sections.

CLIPPER OVER COMB - This technique removes bulk and is perfect for blending in a haircut or creating a short taper. This is achieved by holding the comb in your less dominant hand and the clippers in your dominant hand; bring the comb out of the hair to the desired length and cut the hair that is left in front of the comb’s teeth.

Clipper Over Comb

Concept Hair / 43

Autumn 2018 \ Concept Barbering

THE PURPOSE OF SHAMPOOING IS TO: > Cleanse the hair and scalp > Enhance the appearance of hair > Improve and assist in hair manageability

SHAMPOOING & CONDITIONING ALTHOUGH MOST MEN DO NOT HAVE THEIR HAIR SHAMPOOED WHILST THEY VISIT THE BARBERSHOP, THERE ARE SOME OCCASIONS WHEN SHAMPOOING IS ESSENTIAL. MANY MEN HAVE THEIR HAIR WASHED BEFORE A CUT TO REMOVE EXCESS PRODUCT OR TO ENJOY A RELAXING AND REFRESHING SCALP MASSAGE. SOMETIMES THE HAIR IS SHAMPOOED AFTER CUTTING, PARTICULARLY AFTER VERY SHORT HAIRCUTS TO HELP REMOVE THE TINY EXCESS HAIRS, TO MAKE THE CLIENT FEEL MORE COMFORTABLE AND TO GET THE BEST FINISH. 44 / Concept Hair

THE PURPOSE OF CONDITIONING IS TO: > Assist hair manageability > Detangle hair by making it smoother > Reduce static > Maintain the moisture content

STEP BY STEP: Prior to washing a client’s hair, make sure you carry out a full and thorough consultation and look for any contraindications that may affect the service. Ensure you have gowned your client up correctly with a gown and a towel across their back and shoulders to protect their clothing. If you are using a front wash, you will also need to place a towel over the client’s chest. It is very important to position your client correctly to ensure they are comfortable and that you have a watertight seal.

Autumn 2018 / Concept Barbering

STEPS FOR A GOOD SHAMPOO SERVICE: > Always check the temperature before you wet the client’s hair > Don’t have the flow too strong or water may splash on your client > Thoroughly wet the hair, always making sure you keep check of the temperature > Turn the water off > Apply shampoo to your hands > Using effleurage, rotary and friction massage techniques, apply shampoo to the hair

> Apply a second shampoo using the same massage techniques until hair lathers (if a lot of product builds up, you may need another shampoo) > Turn the water back on and check temperature > Rinse second shampoo > Turn water off and towel dry the hair > If needed, apply a small amount of conditioner to your hands > Apply through the mid lengths and ends and massage the scalp using effleurage and petrissage massage techniques for a relaxing massage

> Turn the water back on and check temperature

> Turn water back on and thoroughly rinse – a quick rinse with cold water will help close the cuticles and add shine

> Rinse the shampoo and turn water off

> Towel dry the hair

Concept Hair / 45

Autumn 2018 \ Concept Barbering

CUT THROAT SHAVE GIVING YOUR CUSTOMER THAT PERFECT SHAVE IS NO EASY TASK, ESPECIALLY WHEN DEALING WITH THE LIKES OF TOUGH STUBBLE. SLOW AND STEADY IS WHAT WINS THE RACE, AND PREPARATION IS OF THE UTMOST IMPORTANCE WHEN IT COMES TO ACHIEVING OPTIMUM RESULTS WITH YOUR WET SHAVE.

CONSULTATION This is a crucial part of any service. No one knows their skin and face better than your client themselves so talk to them, ask them questions and let them tell you about their shaving routine before you start the service. Look at the beard growth patterns, skin disorders, density of facial hair, piercings and skin sensitivity.

STEP BY STEP 01 Gown up and use two towels on the neck 02 Adjust the chair height as needed and recline the back 03 If required, reduce the beard length prior to the shave 04 Place the first hot towel onto the face and massage the skin under the towel. This will soften the skin, lift the facial hair, open the pores and relax the client 05 DON’T EVER let the towels get cold on your client’s face. Replace as often as necessary 06 Use this time, when the hot towels are on your client, to prepare your razor 07 Massage a pre-shave oil in the area you will be shaving - this will protect your client’s skin from the razor 08 Using a shaving brush and shaving cream, lather the face thoroughly – this will help to

46 / Concept Hair

soften the hair and lubricate the skin, ensuring a comfortable, close shave

09 Use circular movements to help lift the stubble 10 The first shave is WITH the grain 11 Hold the razor in your dominant hand and use your other hand to stretch the skin as tight as you can to reduce the risk of cuts

15 Massaging a post-shave balm into the skin after the shave will help to nourish and moisturise 16 Place a moist, cold towel on the face to close the pores – do not use a cold towel if a client wanted a massage service after a shave as the products would not be able to penetrate the skin 17 You can place towels in the fridge to cool 04

12 Hold the razor at a 30° angle to the skin. Use gentle pressure and even strokes 13 Once you have completed the shave, rinse, re-lather and complete the second shave, this time shave AGAINST the grain 14 Only perform a third shave if required - generally you will not need to

These articles have been taken from Mike Taylor’s Barbering Resource Book, which is available to buy from www.greatbritishbarberingacademy.com. RRP £6.

11

Autumn 2018 / Feature

barberism™

a collaboration between captain fawcett & sid sottung Sid Sottung

Sid Sottung was brought up in New York City and at an early age became an apprentice at a traditional Italian Barbers in Brooklyn. From there, he moved on to work with Vidal Sassoon in downtown Manhattan.

Captain Fawcett is extremely delighted to have collaborated with Sid Sottung to bring you Barberism™, an exclusive range of male grooming products that sets a new standard in the world of cutting edge barbering. Barberism’s overriding influences are to be found amongst Sid’s personal recollections of a largely forgotten era.

These include fond memories of his beloved father Ronald who worked on Hellcats at the Grumman Airplane factory based on Long Island, New York. The pin-up girl representing the sweetheart left at home emblazoned on the nose of many American aircraft doomed

never to return from their fateful missions. The age of prohibition and the speakeasies ran by sharp-suited, often ruthless mobsters dressed to kill. The fragrant masculine aromas of the old school barbershop, the hair tonics, aftershaves and grease-based pomades mingled with tobacco smoke and work-weary, honest sweat.

Barberism™ captures the essence of the man’s man... while creating an albeit classically influenced yet modern fragrance that boasts top notes of Lime & Orange, mid notes of Rose & Galbanum along with the earthier base notes of Cedarwood, Patchouli & Musk.

to both inspiring and educating the next generation of barbers and hairdressers. Whether at Sid’s own Nottingham-based Academy, on stage teaching on behalf of industry leading grooming companies or providing bespoke in-house training for prestigious international salons, Sid is at the forefront in pushing the boundaries of hairdressing and barbering education.

Products in the range: Beard Oil (50ml and 10ml options), Pre-Shave Oil, Beard Balm and Moustache Wax.

After a decade of cutting hair in some of the world’s most exclusive salons, Sid has turned his full attention Concept Hair / 47

Autumn 2018 \ Feature

PRE-SHAVE OIL (THIS FORMULATION WAS RIGOROUSLY TESTED BY SID)

Captain Fawcett’s Barberism™ collaboration with Sid Sottung has produced a most outstanding Pre-Shave Oil. Six oils with moisturising, glide and nourishing properties have been expertly blended with Sid’s timeless and yet refreshingly elegant scent that boasts top notes of Lime & Orange, mid notes of Rose & Galbanum along with the earthier base notes of Cedarwood, Patchouli & Musk.

TO USE: First wash your face in warm water to soften beard stubble, before massaging a few drops of oil into the area to be shaved. The further application of a hot face cloth for 30 seconds or so will accelerate the process whilst adding a relaxing luxury to your shave. Brush on shaving soap lather and then shave as normal.

Handmade in small batches by the Captain’s master blender, supplied in a glass bottle with a pump to facilitate accurate dispensing.

48 / Concept Hair

Autumn 2018 / Concept Barbering

TOM CHAPMAN How to dry and finish men’s hair

Tom Chapman

Tom Chapman, an award-winning barber and educator from Devon, has worked in the hair industry for more than 15 years. The 33-year-old is the founder of the Lions Barber Collective mental health charity and an ambassador for the established male grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge. Here Tom shares his top tips for drying and finishing men’s hair…

When I was a lot younger and pretty fresh to this industry, I used to like it when clients would say: “I love the way you do my hair, it’s always so perfect - but it won’t look like this until I see you next time. I can never recreate this look at home.”

I mistook that sentence as meaning that I was a fantastic stylist who could give them a cut they loved, manipulate their hair in a way they couldn’t and have them leave the chair feeling great. But what about the next day and the next 2, 4, 6 weeks until their next hair cut? They were walking round with badly styled hair, not feeling anywhere near as great as they should. That was my fault because

I had not educated them on how I styled and dried their hair. Once I realised that, I ensured that my clients would leave feeling great and continue to have great hair, even when they arrive for their next appointment. Ensuring that your client remains loyal and your hair cut looks great when they’re not in your chair! So the best way is to dry hair and educate your client while doing so.

Concept Hair / 49

Autumn 2018 \ Concept Barbering

THE EASIEST WAY TO STYLE YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR REQUIRES JUST A FEW SIMPLE TOOLS: > Shampoo/Conditioner > Hair Gel > Hairdryer > Vent Brush > Finishing product of choice

FLAWLESS HAIR: The first key to having flawless hair every time you style it is to ensure it is clean before you start.

By washing your client’s hair you remove any build up and any unnatural growth patterns from wearing a hat or sleeping and it gives you a clean slate to work with, making the cut and the blow dry far easier.

Once their hair is towel dried, run a large pea sized amount of gel through it, making sure it is distributed evenly. This acts as a foundation product for your desired look and will make it far easier to style.

Using your hairdryer with a nozzle on a high speed and high heat in one hand and your vent brush in the other, blast the hair in the direction you want it to sit while brushing with the vent brush. This will smooth the hair and give it better control and direction. (TIP - keep the hairdryer moving at all times to avoid too much heat in one place). Once the hair is in place and you’re happy with the shape created, leave it to cool. Hair sets when it cools down and becomes pliable and mouldable when warm.

While the hair is cooling, grab your favourite styling product and take a piece about the same size as a 5p (TIP – it’s very easy to add more product, impossible to remove excess without repeating the process from the beginning again) and emulsify it through your hands until it has disappeared, then rub it all the way through the hair, coating all the hair, therefore making it easier to style.

Now finish off by manipulating the hair into position, and you’re done. A professional level finish that makes all the difference to your haircut. (Final TIP - if you have cut a slick back, pompadour or similar, something like The Bluebeards Revenge Pomade works great. If you’re going for matt texture then The Bluebeards Revenge Matt Clay or the brand’s matt paste will finish the hair well).

50 / Concept Hair

Autumn 2018 / Feature

john keegan beginning in barbering

John Keegan is the owner of The Academy Barber – an award-winning barbershop based in Ireland. In 2010 he began his own business, which has now grown to four shops and a ladies’ salon.

Here he shares his tips on how to become a successful barber from the very start.

01 Invest in your equipment from the start, don’t go cheap and cheerful. Start as you mean to continue.

02 Be patient - Rome wasn’t built in a day, everything takes time. I know we live in a world where we want things NOW but slow, steady and consistent always wins in the end.

John Keegan

04 Don’t beat yourself up when you make mistakes. You’re going to get things wrong and in turn feel low about yourself because of it but pick yourself back up and go at it again and again until you get it right.

03 Practice makes perfect.

Barbering has alot of techniques. to master so practice, practice, practice!

05 Understand it’s not all haircut: it’s YOU people buy into. People buy into people before product. Barbering isn’t all about cutting hair, it’s about service and professionalism also.

06 Master the scissors – barbering is known for fades and clipper work but truly mastering scissor work will set you apart from the crowd.

07 Understand WHY you’re cutting hair in a particular way and not just how to cut hair: this will help you develop into a creatively brilliant barber.

08 Photograph and video all your work from the beginning and post it on social media and let the world see you progress. This is a great way to get models for training on and eventually great for building a clientele when you qualify.

academybarber.ie/ Concept Hair / 51

Autumn 2018 \ Concept Barbering

CURLY HAIR THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE TEAMED UP WITH AWARDWINNING BARBER AND CHARITY FOUNDER TOM CHAPMAN TO GIVE YOU EXPERT ADVICE ON HOW TO CUT AND STYLE LONG CURLY LOCKS TO BE PROUD OF.

HOW TO CUT COLLAR-LENGTH CURLY HAIR IN THE BARBERSHOP Men with curly hair can often be found desperately trying to iron away their God-given gift; they just long for super straight styles.

But the chance to have a healthy head of ringlets is something to be celebrated.

Tom said: “Once you get used to working with curly hair it can open up so many new opportunities, styles and techniques that are not achievable in straight hair.”

01 Start by washing the hair with The Bluebeards Revenge Shampoo and Conditioner.

This ensures any previous styling products and excess oils are removed from the hair for best results.

02 Use The Bluebeards Revenge Matt Paste as a pre-styling product to help you manage the curls.

03 Start by putting in a profile parting from the front to the nape.

04 Then put in a zigzag section from the profile parting to the back of the ears.

05 Cut the hair to the desired length at the back. When cutting long curly hair, always remember to leave a little extra length to accommodate the natural curl and bounce of the hair.

06 Put in a block graduation to remove excess weight from the hair.

52 / Concept Hair

13 Finally, scrunch The Bluebeards Revenge Pomade into the curls for added volume, texture and hold.

07 Release the top of the hair and cut it to match the desired length at the back.

08 Create a radial parting to separate the front and the back of the hair. Elevate the hair at a “T” to the parting and continue to cut to the desired length.

08

09 Follow your guide length around to the front on both sides, point cutting as you go to add texture.

10 In front of the ears, direct the hair backwards to maintain a balanced length around the face.

11

11 While the hair is wet, use twist cutting to remove further weight.

12 Blow-dry the hair with a diffuser on a medium heat. A diffuser gives a more natural finish and accentuates the curls.

For more expert hairstyling tips and tricks from The Bluebeards Revenge, visit BluebeardsTV on YouTube.

12

Autumn 2018 / Exercise

HABIA EXERCISES Habia is recognised by government as the Standards Setting Body for the hair and beauty industries and plays an essential role in maintaining and improving professionalism within them. The following exercises have been provided by Habia. You can find out more about them at https://www.habia.org/ Choose the correct word from the list to complete the sentence.

Q1 The receptionist is often the ______________ person that a client meets when they come into the salon.

A

First

B

Last

C

Second

D

Third

Q2 It is really important to give a ______________ impression of both yourself and the salon.

A

First

B

Fair

C

Good

D

Second

Ans.

Q3 You must not give the client a ______________ impression of you or the salon.

A

Positive

B

Good

C

Fair

D

Negative

Ans.

Q4 "You never get a second chance to make a ______________ impression" A

First

B

Second

C

Third

D

Fourth

Ans.

When working on reception, always be ______________ and pleasant to clients and attend to them as

Q5 soon as you can.

A

Rude

B

Chatty

C

Polite

D

Talkative

Ans.

Ans.

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free Concept Hair / 53

Autumn 2018 \ Exercise

COMMUNICATION CROSSWORD 1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

ACROSS

DOWN

1

2 Communication used when you don't speak (3, 6).

Some clients may become this if they are unhappy with their treatment or service.

6 Speaking loudly in this way should be avoided.

3 This type of communication would tell the client you are not interested in them.

8 You may have to take these when working on reception.

4 This is vital for the smooth running of the salon.

11 Non verbal communication (4, 8).

5 This type of communication shows the client you are interested in them.

13 Communication used when you speak.

7 This can show you are happy.

14 You must do this carefully to find out what the client wants.

9 It is important to always speak like this.

15 If the client is making one of these, you must remain polite.

12 This can show you are listening to the client (3, 7).

10 You need to ask these to find information.

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 54 / Concept Hair

Autumn 2018 / Exercise

SALON AND LEGAL REQUIREMENTS Match the preparation that is required for each of the listed items.

The first one has been done for you.

ITEMS

ANS.

PREPARATIONS

Worktop

To be read before use

Shoulder cape

Free from dust and hairs

Manufacturers' instructions

Clean, tidy and free from hair

Client's clothing

Worn when using chemicals

Tools

Placed around the client's shoulders

Protective gloves

Gathered together before starting work

Apron

Worn when applying chemicals to client's hair

Products

Sterilised before use

Equipment and materials

Protected

BASIC SCIENCE Read the statement and then tick the box to show which section the description refers to.

CUTICLE

CORTEX

MEDULLA

Made up of overlapping scales This is the central part of the hair The scales lay flat in this section This is the main body of the hair This section contains special bonds that can be broken during perming If this section is damaged it makes the hair difficult to comb

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free Concept Hair / 55

Autumn 2018 \ Exercise

BASIC SCIENCE CROSSWORD 1

2

3

4

5

6

8

7

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

ACROSS

DOWN

3 A post perm treatment

1

5 This is the innermost section of the hair

2 The outside of the circle is made up of these

6 This is the outermost portion of the hair

4 This process is completed once the perm has developed

8 Could be irritated by the neutraliser

7 You must read these carefully before you carry out a chemical treatment

11 The number of sections found in a hair

This makes up the main bulk of the hair

12 If too hot will irritate or burn the scalp when rinsing

9 The scales of the outside layer should be this if it is in good condition

13 This type of colour is rinsed from the hair (4,9)

10 The bonds in the hair do this during perm development

16 Perm lotion adds this to the hair

14 The hair is wound on these during the perming process

18 You must treat the hair like this following a perm service

15 This will permanently change the shape of the hair 17 Hair can look like this after the perm rods are removed

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 56 / Concept Hair

Autumn 2018 / Exercise

PRODUCTS, EQUIPMENT AND USE Tick the correct answer.

You need to prepare the following items

Q1 when neutralising a perm.

Why is it important to read manufacturers'

Ans.

Q3 instructions?

A

Perm solution, neutraliser, bowl, sponge

A

To ensure you know how to use the product

B

Stain remover, cotton wool, applicator, bowl

B

In case the instructions have changed

C

End papers, cotton wool, plastic cap, bowl

C

To ensure that you have understood

D

Bowl, cotton wool, sponge, applicator

D

To help you to remember how to use the product

Before applying chemicals to the hair,

Q2 you must‌ A

Read the instructions

B

Refer to the client's record card

C

Wear an apron

D

Remove all traces of shampoo

Ans.

If a perm rod falls out during neutralising,

Q4 you must‌ A

Replace it immediately

B

Ask your client to sit still to prevent more falling out

C

Ask the stylist to replace the perm rod

D

Leave the rod out

Ans.

Ans.

WORD SEARCH Find the words in the word search related to products, equipment and their use.

Cross off the words at the bottom of the page when you have found them.

C

O

F

I

S

L

G

O

W

N

B

C

O

I

N

O

W

C

A

P

I

L

O

O

N

B

E

Q

U

I

P

M

E

N

T

M

D

S

O

C

L

I

P

S

R

T

T

B

I

P

T

R

O

L

L

E

Y

P

L

T

O

W

E

L

S

I

D

S

R

I

N

S

T

R

U

C

T

I

O

G

P

T

N

O

A

R

N

E

B

O

W

L

T

E

O

L

O

T

I

R

B

T

L

A

B

R

C

S

G

Applicator

Gloves

Apron

Gown

Bottle

Instructions

R

Bowl

Lotion

E

U

Brush

Products

O

N

S

Cap

Rods

O

D

S

H

Clips

Sponge

B

R

U

S

H

Comb

Tools

O

N

S

C

N

E

Conditioner

Towels

P

R

O

N

T

O

S

Equipment

Trolley

L

O

V

E

S

L

P

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free Concept Hair / 57

Autumn 2018 \ Exercise

ASSIST WITH SALON RECEPTION DUTIES Look at the list and tick which items are vital to have, which are desirable to have and which are unnecessary at the reception.

VITAL

DESIRABLE

UNNECESSARY

Envelopes Paper Scissors Pen Pencil Eraser Headed notepaper Felt tip pen Stamps Safety pins Ruler Highlighting pens Appointment pages Telephone message sheets Post-it notes Coffee mug Computer Magazines Calendar Drink mat Diary Sweets Paper clips Correction tape Paperback book Radio Memo sheets Compliment slips

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 58 / Concept Hair

Autumn 2018 / Exercise

WORD SEARCH Find the words in the word search related to salon and legal requirements.

Cross off the words at the bottom of the page when you have found them.

C

E

I

R

P

R

O

C

E

D

U

R

E

S

O

P

S

C

E

M

E

S

S

A

G

E

S

D

N

E

W

P

E

A

S

E

R

V

I

C

E

N

F

A

A

T

S

T

R

E

A

T

M

E

N

T

I

D

I

M

A

G

E

T

N

P

C

P

C

R

D

A

T

A

D

M

E

L

S

R

A

T

O

E

E

T

I

M

E

H

D

E

W

E

N

I

M

E

N

E

N

Q

U

I

R

Y

E

C

C

O

P

D

T

L

G

I

O

T

C

P

R

E

E

N

U

A

I

E

N

H

O

S

P

I

T

A

L

I

T

Y

A

P

P

O

I

N

T

M

E

N

T

S

E

T

L

H

O

C

O

M

P

L

A

I

N

T

R

M

I

O

H

T

A

A

I

R

A

E

R

S

N

L

T

N

G

G

E

K

O

P

I

E

D

O

E

N

Y

E

G

R

E

E

T

I

N

G

E

I

T

E

Answer

Data

Hospitality

Receptionist

Waiting

Appointment

Date

Image

Service

Computer

Cancel

Day

Make

Telephone

Complaint

Enquiry

Messages

Time

Confidentiality

Greeting

Procedures

Treatment

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free Concept Hair / 59

Autumn 2018 \ Exercise

CLIENT CONSULTATION Q1

What is effective communication?

Q2

Why is effective communication important?

Q3

Whilst you must always treat clients equally, some of your clients may have disabilities or they may require you to adapt to their specific needs. How would you adapt to these types of clients?

A.

Clients with visual impairments:

B.

Clients with hearing impairments:

C.

Clients with a speech impediment:

Q4

Select whether these types of body language are ‘P’ for positive or ’N’ for negative by ticking the relevant box next to each one.

P

N

P

N

Open palms

Frowning

Good posture

Poor posture

Smiling

Eye contact

Putting hand in front of mouth when talking

Crossed arms

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Autumn 2018 / Exercise

HAIR TESTS Link the type of test to the correct definition.

The first one has been done for you.

TYPE OF TEST

ANS.

DEFINITIONS

Skin test

To check that a perming or relaxing service is working during the service.

Texture test

To identify if the hair cuticles are rough or smooth before any service on dry hair.

Development test

Conducted before most colouring or perming services, 24-48 hours before the treatment is undertaken.

Porosity test

To see if the hair is sparse, regular or abundant before undertaking a relaxing service.

Strand test

To see if there are any henna or metallic salts present which would react with the products before doing any chemical services.

Elasticity test

Looking at individual hairs during consultation and analysis of the hair before undertaking a relaxing service.

Density test

To make sure that a colouring or lightening service is working successfully during the service by wiping off the colour or lightener from a few strands of hair.

Incompatibly test

To test the strength of the cortex before any service on wet hair.

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Autumn 2018 \ Exercise

SOLVING PERMING PROBLEMS How could you solve these perming problems?

01

Scalp irritation

07

Hair breakage

02

The perm process is slow

08

The curl is too tight

03

The rods fall out when you’re rinsing the hair

09

The hair is straight

04

Fish hooks

10

Hair has discoloured

05

There are some straight pieces amongst the curls

11

The curl is uneven

06

Frizzy hair

12

The curl has dropped

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Autumn 2018 / Exercise

COLOURING EXERCISES Benjamin Matthews and Ryan Parsons founded award-winning salon Benjamin Ryan Hair over 10 years ago. Benjamin has worked for the likes of Alexander McQueen, Missoni, Dries Van Noten and more; he was recently selected to join the prestigious Hair Mastered Mentoring Program. Ryan was previously a national educator and Salon International stylist for Wella and has styled many runway fashion shows.

What is the best way to remove stains off a

Q1 client’s scalp?

Ans.

All of the following are considered ‘cool’

Q6 colours except…?

A

Cotton wool and water

A

Violet

B

Emulsify before taking colour off

B

Red

C

Hairspray

C

Blue

D

Purple

E

Green

Q2 Volume can lift the hair up to two levels.

A

True

B

False

Ans.

Q7 What neutralises green?

What test should be carried out before

Q3 colouring any client’s hair?

Ans.

A

Purple

B

Blue

A

Porosity test

C

Orange

B

Elasticity test

D

Red

C

Skin test

Ans.

Ans.

Q8 Does semi-permanent cover 100% grey hair? Ans. What is the most important thing when

Q4 carrying out a colour service?

A

Good consultation

B

Neat application

C

Talking to the client

D

The client’s needs

Q5 A

Ans.

A

Yes

B

No The warmness or coolness of a colour is

All hair colours, natural or artificial, are the result of the combination of which three primary colours?

Q9 known as its…

Ans.

A

Tone

B

Depth

C

Level

Red, yellow and green

Ans.

If a client wants to eliminate yellow

Q10 undertones, she/he should get an ash

B

Blue, red and yellow

C

Red, orange and blue

A

True

D

Blue, red and purple

B

False

based colour.

Ans.

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Concept Hair / 63

Autumn 2018 \ Exercise

HEALTH AND SAFETY EXERCISES Q1 What does HASAWA stand for?

A

The Health and Safety and Wigs Act

B

The Health and Safety at Work Act

C

The Hygiene and Safety at Work Act

D

The Hair and Salons at Work Act

Q2 Who does the HASAWA cover?

A

Employers

B

Employees

C

Everyone

D

Clients Which one of these is NOT your employer’s

Q3 responsibility under HASAWA? A

Give staff appropriate training

C

Maintenance of the workplace

D

Provide at least one meal a day for employees

According to RIDDOR, all accidents must

Q4 be written in what?

Which of these must you NOT do when

Q6 lifting a heavy object?

A

Bend your knees

B

Tilt it off a shelf and then catch it

C

Keep your back straight

D

Keep the object close to your body

Q7 What does COSHH stand for?

A

The Care of Solvents, Hair and Hairlines

B

The Control of Students’ Healthy Hair

C

The Control of Salon Healthy Hair

D

The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health

The treatment of hazardous substances

Q8 is referred to as SHUD. What does SHUD stand for?

Ans.

A

Save, Hold, Utilise, Dispose

B

Shake, Handle, Use, Dispose

C

Store, Handle, Use, Dispose

D

Store, Hold, Utilise, Dispose

Under the COSHH regulations, who

Q9 should supply the correct PPE?

B

The diary

C

The appointment book

A

You

D

The computer system

B

Your client

C

Your employer

D

Your parents

What can be caused or made worse by

Ans.

A

Musculoskeletal disorders

B

Acne

C

Headaches

A

True

D

Chicken pox

B

False

Substances include all creams, powders,

Q10 lotions and liquids. True or false?

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Ans.

Ans.

The accident book

Q5 manual handling?

Ans.

Ans.

Provide a suitable work environment

B

A

Ans.

Ans.

Ans.

Ans.

Autumn 2018 / Exercise

HEALTH AND SAFETY EXERCISES Q11 What is an MFI?

Ans.

Which of these does NOT count as an

Q16 offence according to The Environmental Protection Act?

A

A hair brand

B

A qualification

A

Fly-tipping

C

The manufacturer’s instructions

B

Bad personal hygiene

D

A Health and Safety warning

C

Litter

D

Dog fouling

What needs to be PAT tested in the

Q12 workplace?

Ans. Salons can recycle most of their

Q17 electrical goods.

A

All electrical items used in the salon

B

All employees working in the salon

A

True

C

All documents being distributed by the salon

B

False

D

All products used in the salon

Ans.

Which methods of travelling into work

Q18 will reduce your carbon footprint?

Q13 How often do you need to PAT test things? Ans. A

Every six months

B

Annually

C

Biannually

D

Every month

A

Driving

B

Cycling

C

Walking

D

Riding a motorbike

Low ammonia or ammonia-free hair colour

Q14

The Environmental Protection Act was created specifically for the hairdressing industry.

A

True

B

False

What can the result of not following

Q15 The Environmental Protection Act be?

A

ÂŁ300 fixed penalty and potential criminal prosecution

B

Imprisonment

C

The salon will have to be shut down permanently

D

The salon will have to be shut down temporarily

Ans.

Q19 products are bad for the environment.

Ans.

A

True

B

False

Ans.

Ans.

Ans.

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Hair by Colour Project 2018, Photography Chris Bulezuik

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