June 2017

SOUTHWEST THE MAGAZINE JUNE 2017

JUNE 2017

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E X P E R I EN CE I T ALL!

Landry’s offers something for everyone with spectacular restaurants from casual to fine dining, luxurious hotels, resorts & casinos, and entertainment destinations from coast to coast.

UPSCALE DINING

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Las Vegas • Lake Charles Atlantic City • Biloxi • Laughlin

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CANADA Niagara Falls Toronto Vancouver, British Columbia CHINA Beijing Hong Kong Macau Shanghai FRANCE Paris INDONESIA Bali JAPAN Osaka Tokyo Toyosu MALAYSIA Kuala Lumpur MEXICO Cancun Mexico City Puerto Vallarta NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS Saipan PHILIPPINES Manila SINGAPORE TAIWAN Taipei UK London UNITED ARAB EMIRATES Dubai

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June 2017

Cuba’s chess obsession is rooted in everyday labyrinthine challenges.

58 The Mom and Pop 66 The Ghost of Rock ’n’ Roll Shop Capablanca In tune on and off the stage, Michael Trent and Cary Ann Hearst hit the road as folk-rock duo Shovels & Rope (with a little help from their supporting act).

4 Southwest june 2017

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Long after making his final move, Cuba’s king of chess continues to shape his countrymen’s relationship with the game—and their future.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARY BETH KOETH

5/9/17 1:33 PM

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CONTENTS June 2017

56

58 In Every Issue

R

30 Feedback 32 Contributors 90 Adventure In Lower Manhattan 97 Agenda 100 Fun! 107 Advertiser Directory 111 The Southwest Guide 124 One Question

Work

37 Weigh in on the great pie crust debate, sip a smoky cocktail, and savor the resurgence of diner fare.

47 Discover Long Beach gems, learn why awkwardness can be an asset, and take a tour with Ken Burns.

SOUTHWEST THE MAGAZINE

Gary’s Greeting Saludos de Gary Our Star The A-List Spotlight Community Outreach 24 You Made Our Day 28 From the Editor

12 14 16 18 20 22

Play

sapien

by JUNE 2017

JUNE 2017

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our cover / Photography

by Jeff Wilson and lettering

by Jill De Haan

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DESIREE ESPADA (PIE AND FIDGET CUBE) AND JEFF WILSON (SHOVELS & ROPE)

37

6 southwest june 2017

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NAV Horologio_Southwest (7.5x10.5)_Layout 1 4/24/17 8:30 AM Page 1

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June 2017 EDITORIAL editorial director Jay Heinrichs creative director Kevin de Miranda associate creative director JK Nickell editors Tommie Ethington Bradford Pearson associate editor Melissa Flandreau designers Desiree Espada Kim Thwaits junior designer Alina Keohavong editorial assistant Kiana Moridi contributors Michael Brough, Brin-Jonathan Butler, Nick Cabrera, Jill De Haan, Chris Gash, Andrew Joyce, Mary Beth Koeth, Michael J. Mooney, Jeff Wilson web development, pace interactive Jason Dalton, Chad Hayton, Bridget Landwehrmann EDITORIAL INQUIRIES Write to Southwest: The Magazine 2811 McKinney Ave., Suite 360, Dallas, TX 75204, or email letters@southwestmag.com.

SOUTHWEST INQUIRIES For comments or questions directed at Southwest Airlines that don’t pertain to the magazine, write to Southwest Airlines Customer Relations P.O. Box 36647, Dallas, TX 75235-1647, or visit the “Contact Us” page at Southwest.com.

ceo & owner Bonnie McElveen-Hunter chairman emeritus Eugene Johnston secretary-treasurer Patricia M. McConnell president Jason Whiting chief operating officer & chief financial officer Leigh Ann Klee vice president, production James A. DeCata production manager Greg Onder director of marketing Emily Wright media analyst Courtney Baker

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CARIBBEAN, MEXICO, AND CENTRAL AMERICA Affluentials PACIFIC DIGITAL IMAGE • 333 Broadway, San Francisco CA 94133 • 415.274.7234 • www.pacdigital.com David Antoniak, 727.466.0433, David@Affluentmedia.com Filename: 308110ryl01_SW_3rd_lipstk.pdf_w Operator: SpoolServer Time: 18:41:36 Colors: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black Date: 17-03-13 308110ryl01_SW_3rd_lipstk

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© 2017 Pace Communications, Inc., 1301 Carolina St., Greensboro, NC 27401. Southwest: The Magazine

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contained in this publication are those of the individual authors, contributors, and advertisers and not of Pace Communications, Inc. or Southwest Airlines Co. Pace Communications, Inc. and Southwest Airlines Co. each disclaim any responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, topicality, or quality of any statements, opinions, or information provided. The appearance of advertisements in Southwest: The Magazine is not a warranty, endorsement, or approval of the products or services advertised or of their effectiveness, quality, or safety. Any liability claims against any author, contributor, or advertiser in respect of damage to persons or property caused or alleged to be caused by the use of the statements, opinions, or information contained in this publication, including any statements, opinions, or information which is incorrect or incomplete, are therefore excluded. Publisher reserves the right to accept or reject all advertising material.

printer Quad/Graphics reprints For high-quality article reprints of 100 or more, please contact Foster Reprints at 866.879.9144.

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TRAVEL ON THE BRIGHT SIDE THIS SUMMER!

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Gary’s Greeting

At Southwest, one of our trademark qualities is Reliability. Our Customers tell us repeatedly that Reliability is one of the most important factors in choosing an airline. For us, there is no greater responsibility than to deliver you Safely to your destination, on time, with your bag, and with a smile. That may sound simple, but when you consider we operate more than 4,000 flights a day, carrying about a half-million Customers on more than 700 airplanes to more than 100 cities, it’s a daunting challenge. And one we proudly accept.

Our Dispatchers are responsible for keeping our planes in the sky and our

operation running smoothly. During major weather events or when challenges arise, they work diligently to repair our network in a way that minimizes the impact to our Customers and Flight Crews.

In an effort to improve our recovery efforts, a Team of Dispatchers—including a gentleman named Mike Baker—came up with a technology solution comprised of a sophisticated and complex algorithm that uses best practices and more than 20 factors, including minimizing delayed flights, airport curfews, aircraft maintenance schedules, Flight Crew misconnects, unscheduled Flight Crew overnights, and more.

The tool, which we affectionately refer to as ‘The Baker,’ suggests solutions for irregular events in just minutes, using the Dispatch Team’s inputs to deliver a comprehensive plan. As a result, our Schedulers immediately know where we need to move Flight Crews; Dispatch knows where we need airplanes; Ground Operations knows the entire recovery plan; and Customer Support & Services can begin the rebooking process. Most importantly, our Customers often know our plan before they leave home.

Mike Baker passed away a couple of years ago, but his legacy lives on. I’m sure Mike would be proud to know that since the project’s inception, our ontime performance is 10-15 percent higher on days with irregular operations compared to similar events in the past. The Baker has also resulted in significant cost savings for our Company, and Customer satisfaction has improved during irregular operations as ontime performance improved and flight diversions, tarmac delays, and crew changes declined.

The Baker is just one of the many ways that our People drive innovation and efficiency to improve Reliability. We know Reliability is a journey, not a destination.

You have our commitment that we will continue our passionate pursuit of this never-ending goal.

Gary Kelly Chairman and CEO Southwest Airlines

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN KELLER

Meet ‘The Baker’

12 SOUTHWEST MONTH 2016

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Southern California’s most convenient airport has a new look and a new name.

Located just minutes away from many of Southern California’s top destinations, Hollywood Burbank Airport gives travelers incredible access to everything L.A.

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Saludos de Gary

Presentando a ‘La Baker’ reto, trabajan con esmero para reparar nuestra red con la finalidad de minimizar el impacto a nuestros Clientes y Tripulación.

Con el objetivo de mejorar nuestros esfuerzos de recuperación, un Equipo de Despachadores, entre los que estaba un caballero llamado Mike Baker, creó una solución tecnológica que consiste en un sofisticado y complejo algoritmo que involucra mejores prácticas y más de 20 factores, incluyendo la reducción de vuelos retrasados, las horas restringidas en los aeropuertos, los horarios de mantenimiento de las aeronaves, así como las conexiones erróneas o noches sin programar para la Tripulación, entre muchos datos más.

La herramienta, a la que nos referimos cariñosamente como ‘La Baker’, sugiere soluciones para situaciones

poco comunes en cuestión de minutos, usando los datos provistos por el Equipo de Despacho para entregar un plan completo. Como resultado, nuestros Planificadores saben inmediatamente dónde necesitamos desplazar a miembros de la Tripulación; el Departamento de Despacho sabe dónde necesitamos aviones; el Departamento de Operaciones en Tierra conoce todo el plan de recuperación; y el Departamento de Soporte y Servicios al Cliente puede comenzar el proceso de reasignación de vuelos. Lo más importante es que nuestros Clientes a menudo conocen nuestro plan antes de salir de casa.

Mike Baker falleció hace un par de años, pero su legado sigue vivo. Estoy seguro de que Mike se sentiría orgulloso de saber que desde el inicio del proyecto, nuestro desempeño a tiempo es 10-15% más alto en días con operaciones irregulares comparado con situaciones similares en el pasado. La Baker también ha generado importantes ahorros de costos para nuestra Compañía, y la satisfacción del Cliente ha mejorado en situaciones de operaciones irregulares, y a medida que fue mejorando el desempeño a tiempo, disminuyeron los vuelos desviados, los retrasos en pista y los cambios en la Tripulación.

La Baker es sólo una de las muchas maneras en las que nuestra Gente impulsa la innovación y la eficiencia para mejorar la Confiabilidad. Sabemos que la Confiabilidad es una travesía, no un destino. Estamos comprometidos con usted a continuar nuestra apasionada búsqueda de este objetivo sin fin.

Gary Kelly Presidente de la Junta Directiva y Director Ejecutivo Southwest Airlines

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN KELLER

En Southwest, la Confiabilidad es una de nuestras cualidades por excelencia.

Nuestros Clientes nos dicen con frecuencia que la Confiabilidad es uno de los factores más importantes a tomar en cuenta al elegir una aerolínea. Para nosotros, no hay mayor responsabilidad que llevarlo a su destino de manera segura, a tiempo, con su equipaje y con una sonrisa. Eso puede sonar sencillo, pero si consideramos que operamos más de 4,000 vuelos al día, transportando cerca de medio millón de Clientes en más de 700 aviones a más de 100 ciudades, es un desafío enorme. Uno que orgullosamente aceptamos.

Nuestros Despachadores se encargan de mantener los aviones en el aire y las operaciones funcionando sin problemas. Cuando se presentan fenómenos meteorológicos graves, o ante cualquier

14 SOUTHWEST MONTH 2016

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DISTANCE SHOULDN’T KEEP YOU FROM THE NEUROLOGICAL CARE YOU DESERVE. Last year, patients from 42 states and 33 countries traveled to Houston Methodist Neurological Institute for expert treatment of their neurological disorders. Our nationally ranked neurology and neurosurgery services include groundbreaking research and advanced surgical techniques to meet the individual needs of our patients from all over the world.

Learn more about Houston Methodist Neurological Institute at houstonmethodist.org/ni-travel or by phone: Domestic Toll Free: 877.790.3627 International: +1.713.441.2340

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Our Star

“If you treat others with kindness, you’re going to get it back.”

—MOSES NORIEGA , CUSTOMER SERVICE AGENT Before he worked at Southwest Airlines, Moses Noriega was an aviation enthusiast with a passion for traveling. It’s been six years since Moses started at Southwest, and he has loved every second. A Customer Service Agent in Las Vegas, he embodies the Southwest Spirit by ensuring Customers get to their destinations with free bags. (He always does it with a smile, which are free, too.) Whether it’s serving on the Diversity Council or volunteering at the Ronald McDonald House, Moses never turns down a chance to share his Servant’s Heart. To him, Southwest is more than just a job—it’s a lifestyle. Thank you, Moses, for helping us connect People to what’s most important in their lives. —Kyndall Hinton, Communication & Outreach

To thank Moses for his work and dedication, Penn & Teller is proud to give him two tickets to see the show in Las Vegas. Congratulations, Moses!

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WORK PERKS “Because of Southwest, I met singer Ana Bárbara, who has won a Latin Grammy Award. She’s now a great friend and mentor and has taken me on tour.”

SMOOTH MOVES “I love dancing. I try to take a class twice a week here at a hiphop school in Vegas.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY HOYOUNG LEE

SNEAK PEEK “I flew Southwest before I worked here, and when I used to check in, the Employees made me feel like I was one of their best friends. It made me want to work for a Company that is going to reward their Employees for what they do.”

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The A-List

“Success is infinite. Someone else getting their slice of the pie doesn’t mean there’s less for you.”

—DAVID HOLMES, CHIROPRACTIC SPORTS PHYSICIAN David Holmes didn’t earn 1.4 million Rapid Rewards points overnight. A Twin Cities–based chiropractor who works with elite and professional athletes, David travels coast to coast to serve his clients. Changing flights with ease and without fees is key in a field where unexpected sports injuries are just that— unexpected. When not flying in planes, David is jumping out of them, and he and his wife use the Companion Pass to skydive in different destinations. David also plans on launching LogicalBody, a website dedicated to helping others understand their health and better manage injuries on the go. There are a million reasons we’re proud to fuel David’s practice and adrenaline rushes. —Brie Strickland, Communication & Outreach POINTS PART Y “When I hit one million Rapid Rewards points, the Southwest Employees in Columbus signed a banner and announced it over the PA system.”

BOISE BOUND “My wife and

I have been taking weekend trips to new states so we can experience something that makes that state exceptional.

Next up: Idaho.”

JUICE BREAK “It’s important to eat healthy while traveling. On layovers in Denver, I eat at Root Down because of their organic options.”

TR AVEL TIPS “I’m a minimalist when I travel and keep my bag organized. Fly By Priority Lanes are a must since they allow me to skip long lines.”

David’s travels earn him A-List Preferred status through

70,000

tier qualifying points.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID BOWMAN

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Spotlight

FINTASTIC FINDS

Shark Week Takes to the Skies

Southwest makes it easy to find jawsome entertainment at 35,000 feet.

When fishing for exciting inflight entertainment this month, you’re bound to come up with quite the catch. Entertainment of great white proportions is coming to WiFi-equipped Southwest aircraft—all from the comfort of your seat. Discovery Channel’s Shark Week is taking to the skies this summer to bring Southwest Customers exclusive content through the Shark Week on-demand channel via the entertainment portal.

On board WiFi-equipped aircraft, you can watch the pre-premiere episode of “African Shark Safari” as part of Southwest’s free onboard television offerings.

America’s longest-running (and arguably most-adored) cable television event is set to air on Discovery from Sunday, July 23 through Sunday, July 30. As a

Southwest Customer, you are sitting in the splash zone, the closest you can get to jaw-dropping action without diving in. Get your feet wet from the ground by keeping an eye out for the Southwest Airlines Shark Week–themed aircraft, and share sightings of our high-flying friends by tagging #SharksTakeFlight on your social channels.

If talk of teeth and tails has you ready for a trip to the ocean, point your browser to Southwest.com/sharkweek to enter for the chance to win the Dare to Dive Sweepstakes. One lucky family of four will swim off with a trip to Grand Cayman, our newest international destination, complete with round trip air travel for four on Southwest, a $2,000 Ritz-Carlton gift card, and a $1,000 gift card to put toward an aquatic adventure.

On today’s flight, we’re proud to offer ocean enthusiasts peanuts and deep-sea dives with every drink. Grab your device to be among the first to sink your teeth into Shark Week, compliments of Discovery Channel and Southwest Airlines.

—Kaitlin Taft, Communication & Outreach

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LINDSAY_IMAGERY/ISTOCK

Check out exclusive Shark Week content during your Southwest flight.

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Closer to wild.

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Community Outreach

HELPING HANDS

A Way to Make a Difference

Through travel grants, Southwest Airlines supports people in need.

Sometimes, it’s the smallest things that make a difference in the lives of others—a smile, a kind word, something you never knew would be impactful.

At Southwest Airlines, our purpose is to connect People to what’s important in their lives. We have a long history of giving back in our communities. One way we do that is by donating travel to nonprofit organizations for fundraising or mission-related travel needs. Southwest Employee Mary Widen discovered the impact she made on a stranger and the true value of what her volunteering means when she spoke to a recipient of a Southwest Airlines travel grant. This recipient, who also happens to be the administrative coordinator for a fundraiser, never dreamed she’d be in need of the funds raised.

“When I first went to work for the foundation, I

never thought I would get breast cancer, but then I did,” the recipient says. “The support I received from my own foundation in helping me find a mentor and someone to walk through this cancer journey with was life-supporting. So to me, our supporters have a new, personal place in my heart.

“When the FedEx envelope arrives and I see those tickets inside, they don’t represent an airplane flight—they represent hope. It means that Southwest cares about the struggle and the frightening journey many are about to begin. It means that someone will not have to walk this journey alone.”

Southwest has Community Giving Boards in most of our cities. Employees like Mary volunteer their time to review donation requests for travel from nonprofit organizations in their city. Although we can’t help every organization, thanks to our Community Giving Board volunteers, we hope to give support and make a difference where we can.

Employees like Mary make programs like this possible. You never know the lives you may touch.

Visit Southwest.com/donations to learn more about applying.

—David Mount, Community Outreach

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN KELLER

Southwest Employees like Mary Widen volunteer on Community Giving Boards.

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You Made Our Day WANT TO SHARE YOUR STORY? Have you witnessed an over-the-top act of Southwest Airlines Employee kindness?

Let us know at Southwest.com/ contact-us.

I recently flew from Little Rock to Houston with a layover in Dallas. I was traveling with my 6-month-old baby (and the many items of luggage that go along with a baby). The first leg of the trip was delayed due to weather, and we didn’t land until after my connecting flight to HOU was already boarding. I gathered my baby and all our stuff (there was a lot!) and attempted to run to my gate. My gate ended up being on the other side of the terminal, so when I checked the screen, I lost

A LITTLE EXTR A TIME

Southwest Airlines has always been a good experience for me (even during the not-so-good travel experiences). But today they gained even more respect from me. Captain Dan Cody and first officer Clay Cahoon stopped my 10-yearold son and 4-year-old daughter on our way out and asked them to come “fly” the plane. These kids were in heaven, touching and pushing buttons on a real plane that we had just landed in. Thank you, Southwest, for taking the extra time to make two little kids’ day even more

ILLUSTRATION BY LEVI HASTINGS

Dear Southwest,

hope and decided not to bother running all that way. I should add that this was the last flight out, meaning I would be stranded for the night in Dallas with a tiny baby and without the supplies I needed for him. Then captain Philip Corder, who was sitting at a gate waiting for his flight, saw that I looked overwhelmed. He asked what was wrong and then personally carried (ran!) all of my stuff and my baby in his car seat to my gate. I made the flight! I was absolutely blown away that somebody would go out of their way like that. He even walked me all the way to the door of my plane and got the gate check tags on my gear.

He had the most helpful attitude and was so kind. Without him, this trip would have been a total nightmare.

—Tara Thompson

24 SOUTHWEST JUNE 2017

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5/3/17 3:12 PM

SOME SEE

A HEART DEFECT.

WE SEE

A LIFETIME OF POTENTIAL.

Nothing can prepare you for learning of a serious heart defect in your unborn child during a routine sonogram. But when Evie’s parents met the pediatric heart team at University Health System, they immediately felt their heartache turn into hope. With survival outcomes that far exceed the national average, this renowned team has the most undeniable combination of experience, technology and passion to ensure other kids like Evie have the best chance to live their brightest future possible.

Learn more at PediatricHeartSouthTexas.com

Thinking beyond the diagnosis.

Thinking heartache.

INTRODUCING THE NEW CHILD R E N ’ Sbeyond H E A Rthe T C ENTER IN SAN ANTONIO. 22,500 square feet. 18 private patient rooms. 4 hotel-like rooms for families. One renowned team.

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special. What you didn’t know is that my son has autism—high-functioning, but nonetheless, he’s on the spectrum. This kind gesture made my kids feel like the most important people in the world at that moment.

—Liz Swindlehurst SUPERIOR CUSTOMER SERVICE

When my husband Mark and I were headed back to Texas, his father helped us carry our bags to the door while his mother waited by the car. My husband was checking his bags when I noticed my father-in-law by the side of the curb. My mother-in-law had somehow lost her footing and fallen to the ground face first. Customer service supervisor Niamoni Ford was the employee checking Mark’s bags. She came out and asked us if we wanted to postpone our flight for the following day. She took our tickets, rescheduled our departure for the same flight the following day, and brought our new tickets to us. Niamoni handled everything without us leaving the curb.

SPIRIT MAGAZINE My husband thanked her and gave MAY 2017

her a big hug. When the paramedics arrived, they decided to take my mother-in-law to a trauma hospital.

A friend dropped us off the next day and we did fly back home. Niamoni was working at our departure gate and inquired about my mother-in-law.

Niamoni was incredibly humble when I thanked her for everything she had done. Despite the circumstances, I can truly say that we have never received such superior customer service. —Aliza Phillips PACKING GENIUS

Our son and his family recently moved to Costa Rica to begin language school in preparation for becoming career missionaries in South America.

We were going to visit them and had been collecting items to take to them.

We had children’s clothes, presents, and several other items. We had carefully packed these items in tubs, unaware that an embargo was in effect for tubs as well as boxes. When we arrived at the ticket counter at Houston Hobby to check our bags, customer

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Dear Reader,

One of the best ways to know a city is to hang out in a park where people play chess. I lived in the Dupont Circle neighborhood in Washington, D.C., back in the ’70s, when it was a bit scruffy; it’s now full of great restaurants and boutique hotels. Back then on summer evenings, people of all kinds—from the homeless to diplomats—gathered to play on concrete game tables. No one talked.

The language was the silent syntax of chess, the simplest, most complex game ever invented. Next to marriage, that is.

Chess fans say Cuba is like one big Dupont Circle, with the added advantage of year-round outdoor play. (See the story on page 66.) Unlike Washingtonians, Cuban players chatter and talk smack while spectators provide color commentary.

A beautiful thing about chess is that, while you can pick up its basic rules just by watching, it takes years before you can anticipate your opponent and think more than one step ahead. Which, come to think of it, really is like marriage. While you need to know very few rules at the get-go, marriage takes great thinking and strategy. It requires years before you can anticipate your partner. Personally, I have yet to learn to think more than one step ahead.

Now just imagine what it must be like to marry your business partner. That would be a nuptial version of chess, a dizzying and constant set of simultaneous moves and countermoves. Add music to the partnership and you get Shovels & Rope (see page 58), a folk-rock duo who tour with their 21-month-old daughter. I’m in awe of them. This couple employs impressive strategy and partner anticipation, to the point of reading each other’s minds.

That’s the secret both to great chess and a happy marriage.

Jay Heinrichs EDITORIAL DIRECTOR @JAYHEINRICHS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GEERATI/ISTOCK

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feedback

Talk to Us SouthwestMagazine @SouthwestTheMag @SouthwestMagazine letters@southwestmag.com

For comments or questions directed at Southwest Airlines that don’t pertain to the magazine, visit Southwest.com/ contact-us.

SEEN ON SOCIAL LAS to RNO for another week of the #NVLeg. Super excited about the April edition of the @SouthwestAir magazine! @STEVEYEAGERNV

LOVE this article about “millennial” parenting in @South westAir magazine @RIVERANDMAL

While flipping through Southwest: The Magazine, a photograph of knitting caught my eye. It illustrated Rebecca Ruiz’s story, “A Complicated Inheritance” [April 2017]. Although knitting had nothing to do with her essay, I felt a connection because I learned knitting from my mother and grandmothers—unusual in an age when many have learned from friends, classes, and YouTube. Rebecca’s article focused on the intangible inheritances we have, the stories we learn—just as I learned knitting—and the connections they build to our ancestors and our families. I realized that, at least for me, the photograph does illustrate her essay very well.

Margo Lynn HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT

/ We’re glad you found the common thread, Margo. Bless our elder teachers, all of them.

Article on @South westAir [was an] interesting read on millennials as parents—and it’s mostly good things, much to your surprise #Millennials @CAITCROM CORRECTION

On page 69 of our May 2017 issue, we said Inn Town Campground is in Nevada City, Nevada. The campground is in Nevada City, California.

We regret this error.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DESIREE ESPADA (MAGAZINE)

Dear Editor,

30 southwest june 2017

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contributors

Meet the people behind this issue.

Jeff Wilson PHOTOGRAPHER

Cover; The Mom & Pop Rock ’n’ Roll Shop / p. 58 Jeff hails from Austin— dubbed the “Live Music Capital of the World”—so he’s no stranger to up-andcoming acts. His favorite place to catch a show in the Texas capital is at the Mohawk, a multilevel venue with indoor and outdoor stages. @JEFFWILSONPHOTO

Michael J. Mooney WRITER

The Mom & Pop Rock ’n’ Roll Shop / p. 58 Michael first saw Shovels & Rope at Dallas’ South Side Ballroom last year.

“They put on a great show,” he says. “I love that I get to introduce them to people with this story because I’m usually late to the game when it comes to cool music.” @MOONEYMICHAELJ

Brin-Jonathan Butler WRITER

Mary Beth Koeth PHOTOGRAPHER

The Ghost of Capablanca / p. 66 Mary Beth made a friend on her flight down to Havana. “I sat next to a boxing coach named Peter, a Polish man who lives in Dallas and has been bringing equipment to the island for young boys to train with,” she says. “I joined him on a visit to the Rafael Trejo Boxing Gym and saw these young kids practicing in the ring. It was such a gift for a photographer traveling to an unfamiliar place.” @MBKOETH

The Ghost of Capablanca / p. 66 While in Cuba, Brin revisited sites from a trip he made 17 years ago and discovered a hidden gem along the way. “I spent several days in the tiny fishing village of Cojímar,” he says. “It felt a world away, despite only being 10 miles from Havana.” @BRINICIO

Jill De Haan ILLUSTRATOR

Cover Jill is a self-described “nature-loving, podcastlistening lettering artist living in the Utah mountains.” She’s also a Shovels & Rope fan and could listen to their song “Cavalier” forever. Her go-to place for discovering new tunes is Randy’s Record Shop in Salt Lake City. @JILL_DEHAAN

32 Southwest june 2017

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So he decided to bring in the professionals and hired It’s Just Lunch. IJL’s matchmakers got to know him and his preferences. They selected his dates, arranged schedules, and even made the restaurant reservations. Dating 

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 It's Just Lunch Clients LAWRENCE CHIARELLI Regional Sales Director: Tech start up EDUC: BS, Bloomsburg Univ INTERESTS: Golf, running, travel PING MA Owner of RollingPing:Custom Cakes EDUC: MS, Columbia Univ INTERESTS: Travel, wine, jogging with dog

I used to tell my friends: Who has time for online dating…browsing through profiles all night when I could be doing something else with my time."

Why did you decide to join It’s Just Lunch?

L: A good friend of mine mentioned that IJL may be a good resource for meeting women who were a better match for me. Plus, joining would let me get back some time in my life that was sorely lacking.

P: I fly frequently for work and for fun, and when I saw It’s Just Lunch in the airline magazine, it was as if the matchmaker was talking to me! One day after a particularly long flight and wanting to snuggle with someone and watch a movie, I decided it couldn't hurt to give it a try.

What did you enjoy most about the It's Just Lunch process?

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P: Invest in your own happiness, it is always worth it. I never would have met Larry if I hadn’t joined It’s Just Lunch.

It’s the best decision I've ever made.

IT’S JUST LUNCH SIGNATURE MATCHMAKING PROCESS: 1 Through a series of conversations, we get to know you and your relationship goals.

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PLAY Number GET THE SCOOP The poll also found that 56 percent of us prefer our pie with ice cream.

An online Harris Poll surveying 2,178 adults about their dessert druthers found that nearly onethird of people don’t put filling first. Instead, they place their trust in crust, from flaky pastry to graham cracker crumble. Still, there was some agreement among those polled on their preferred pie type.

Seventy-two percent of respondents would go for a sweet slice over a savory one, and apple emerged as the favorite flavor, beating out options like pecan and pumpkin. There’s only one thing left to do now: Let them eat pie.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DESIREE ESPADA

F1_number_DE.indd 37

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PLAY Shop

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Brooks Tipton started screen printing T-shirts while playing in the band Thursday. “A friend taught me how to make shirts for our group and I realized I could make a career out of it,” he says. Today, Brooks and his wife, Shannon, churn out designs for musicians like The Lumineers, Lucero, and Gotye from their shop in the SoMa district. In addition to carrying local art and home goods, Electric Ghost serves as a screen printing studio and houses an interactive “plant lab” where shoppers can create succulent arrangements. “We love that it’s a symbiotic space, and proves you don’t have to do just one thing.”

Quartz Necklace made All of these pieces are hand-mined.

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LOUNGE ↘ True to the hotel’s name, the steel bed frames were actually made by a contractor in nearby Tempe.

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OGLE ← Ask for a southfacing room for views of the downtown skyline and the Roosevelt Row Arts District.

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5/11/17 10:37 AM

Jan R. Stroke Survior

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PLAY Drink

ORDE R THIS

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When the folks at Curio in Denver set about crafting their summer cocktail menu, they wanted to make a drink that “featured Colorado as a whole,” says owner Katsumi Yuso Ruiz. So they grabbed a piney session IPA from down-theblock Ratio Beerworks, cooked it down to a syrup, and got to building the rest of the drink. Thai pepper–infused grapefruit vodka added some heat and sweetness, while a splash of mezcal lent smokiness—a little Colorado campfire. The result, Katsumi says, “tastes like the best of spring break and summer in a glass.”

Cape gooseberries are a cousin of the tomatillo.

MAKE IT ↗ Combine 1¾ ounces Thai pepper–infused Deep Eddy Ruby Red Vodka*, ¾ ounce fresh lemon juice, ¼ ounce Mezcal Nuestra Soledad, and ½ ounce IPA syrup** in a shaker with ice. Shake, and then strain into a sugarrimmed coupe glass; garnish with a Cape gooseberry.

42 Southwest june 2017

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*Slice three dried Thai chilies, and add to 1 liter of Deep Eddy Ruby Red Vodka. Let sit for 12 minutes; strain and use. **Add one part Ratio Beerworks Rented World session IPA (any piney IPA will do) and one part sugar to a saucepan. Over medium heat, stir until sugar is dissolved and let cool.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICK CABRERA

5/2/17 1:01 PM

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PLAY Eat TRE NDING

Diners

/ DETROIT Before a slice of cake at Rose’s Fine Foods, try its take on two Greek diner standbys —lamb and burgers— in the double-stack Baa Baa Baby.

/ RALEIGH, NC You’d be remiss to stop at Poole’s Diner without trying the made-to-order mac and cheese, full of Vermont cheddar, Jarlsberg, and grana padano.

Why pick breakfast or lunch when you can have both?

/ SONOMA, CA The Fremont Diner serves up classic dishes in a farmhouse setting. Wash down fried chicken with a horchata milkshake.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GRETA RYBUS (THE PALACE DINER), JESSE DAVID GREEN (ROSE'S), ANGIE MOSIER (POOLE'S), AND PAIGE GREEN (FREMONT)

The Palace Diner in Biddeford, Maine, is exactly what you want in a diner—15 black vinyl stools under an elbow-worn counter, a constantly full coffee cup, cash only—but after one bite, it’s clear this isn’t a run-of-the-mill greasy spoon. The buttermilk flapjacks are brightened with lemon zest and capped with pure Maine maple syrup, and the grass-fed brisket is brined for a week before getting crisped up in corned beef hash. House-made bread-and-butter pickles top the dill-flecked tuna melt, perfect with a beer from literally around-the-block Banded Horn Brewing Co. Built in 1927, the diner is the oldest in Maine; it would be a mistake to take age as lifelessness.

44 Southwest june 2017

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WORK Number

63%

of us would rather receive a promotion than a raise.

After polling 1,200 office workers about career advancement, executive recruitment firm Korn Ferry discovered that, dollar for dollar, a newly minted title trumps newly minted green. “People want to feel that they’re contributing to something greater than themselves,” says Dennis Baltzley, Korn Ferry senior partner and global head of leadership development solutions.

“They want to see that their work has an impact, and the promotion is a recognition for their contribution.” The results also hold true across generations—millennials, Gen Xers, and baby boomers all value the opportunity to make a difference at their company over a salary bump. So much for the almighty dollar.

MOVIN’ ON UP

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIQUEL LLONCH/STOCKSY UNITED

The survey also showed that 38 percent of us expect to be promoted after spending two to three years in a role.

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WORK Trip

WALKING DISTANCE

Long Beach

Just a 10-minute walk to the sand, the port city’s downtown offers a bounty of urban treats, too.

SLEEP ↗ Named after an eccentric circus performer, the historic Varden Hotel is now ecofriendly, with rain showers and heaps of natural light.

DRINK ↙ Beachwood Blendery focuses on fruity Belgian-inspired ales, like its Come in Grape, Your Time Is Up, made with muscat grapes.

EAT ↗ Fish tacos are a must in Southern California. At Pier 76 Fish Grill, they’re hickory smoked and capped with tangerine-jalapeno salsa.

EXPLORE ↘ At the Aquarium of the Pacific, don’t miss the Japanese spider crab (with its 12foot legspan) or the color-changing Pacific octopus.

RELAX ← Stretch out on the grassy lawns of ShoreLine Aquatic Park and catch a glimpse of fishing boats motoring in and out of the harbor.

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WORK Takeaway

OUT TAKES CAREER PATH I switched careers at 32. It was a windy road, but I chose jobs that built up my skills and gave me a sense of what it takes to run a cultural nonprofit.

BOOK WORM Being a reader was always valued in my home—there were books everywhere.

My parents made it a treat, so it was as exciting to get a new book as it was to get a Nintendo game.

Navigating change is tricky, says the executive director of the National Book Foundation.

I was in a classroom with young people recently and asked, “Who loves books?”

They all raised their hands. Then, I asked, “Who loves literature?” No one raised their hand. The idea that literature is spinach but books are cool is pervasive.

There are so many literary works that are moving, exciting, and page-turning. For the National Book Foundation and National Book Awards, we want to do more programs that bring people into this fold

of reading and literature in creative ways.

It’s easy to say, but an entirely different thing to get everyone on the same page.

There’s so much growth that this foundation, publishing, and literature in general are capable of, but if you make changes before you truly understand something, there’s a lot of room for error. A 67-yearold ship is a big ship, and it takes time to turn without toppling over.

GOOD READS I think writers are the best readers. I follow a lot of writers on Twitter, and they’re always talking about what they’re reading.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEOWULF SHEEHAN

Lisa Lucas

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JACKSONVILLE Art and history are at the heart of the city’s creative culture.

Nature and water you can immerse yourself in make this city flow. Young, talented chefs are the soul of our amazing dining scene. Book your getaway today!

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WORK Solution

Why do we feel awkward?

“Being or feeling awkward can stem from a lot of different factors—our family environment, school, friends—and we all have times when we feel uncertain about how to handle an uncomfortable situation or feel out of place.

Often, it’s because we see the world differently than those around us. Part of being mature and growing up is figuring out how to be good with who you are, and as we get older, we also get better at putting ourselves in social situations where we thrive.”

Invest in the Awkward

Psychologist Ty Tashiro explains why awkwardness can be an asset in the workplace.

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Why are awkward people great employees?

“Awkward people are very passionate, and they’ll nerd out about whatever it is they love. It’s the opposite of being too cool for school,” says Tashiro, author of Awkward: The Science of Why We’re Socially Awkward and Why That’s Awesome. “If you’re a manager or a company owner, they’re the dream employee—somebody who is driven, detail-oriented, and dedicated to doing the best job possible.”

How can less awkward people relate to a socially awkward co-worker?

“There can be a negative connotation with social awkwardness. When people are around someone who is being awkward, there’s an instinctive feeling of this person is not part of the group. We make these split-second judgments, but across any social interaction, it’s easy to forget the person’s intent. Give them time to settle into the conversation. A lot of people like to talk about social things— other people or interactions we’ve had—but awkward people are more likely to devote their interest to things that are less social. Find out what the person is really passionate about and dig into that.”

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5/3/17 3:17 PM

Where Hispanic heritage meets fine art.

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Four hundred years of tradition in two enchanting days of Spanish Colonial art, history, and culture. Over 250 adult and youth artists display and sell their work, all of which are made using traditional methods and materials. The Market is the culmination of a week-long program ยกViva la Cultura! including music, lectures, movies, cuisine, art and much more.

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WORK Startup

Detour

These guided walking tours are a step ahead of the rest.

Here’s how founder Andrew Mason describes the audio app: When I started dating my wife, we were in Rome and wanted a better way to learn about what we were seeing. We loved audio tours but wanted to experience places on our terms. Detour offers audio tours we’ve produced in the city you’re in or traveling to; they’re typically 45–60 minutes and cost $5. One beautiful thing is we worked to make the technology invisible. It’s GPS-based, so you can put your phone in your pocket

and the narrator knows where you are. We try to understand each city’s iconic places and ask, Who’s the most interesting person to tell that story? In San Francisco’s Castro District, we have activist Cleve Jones, who worked with Harvey Milk, and in New York, Tony Award–winner Joel Grey does one on Broadway. We almost think of it as creating an on-location documentary: If you’ve taken a set of Detours, you’ll understand what makes a place tick.

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Detour offers turn-by-turn directions, the ability to sync your audio with friends, and the option to download tours to avoid using data.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO FOCHESATO/WESTEND61/OFFSET

by Ken Burns

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WORK Tool

MORE DESK ACCESSORIES Poppin Brighten your workspace with sleek, colorful office supplies. / The Sill Go green and decorate your cubicle with this company’s plants. / UncommonGoods This site is a onestop shop for quirky paperweights and diversions like desktop basketball.

The Fidget Cube comes in eight colors and is available at antsylabs.com.

Fit to Fiddle

Keep yourself busy with this multi-faceted cube.

Feeling restless? Antsy Labs’ Fidget Cube ($25) is a pocket-sized replacement for clicking pens and bouncing legs. Each of the gadget’s six sides features a different activity that’s meant to increase focus, relieve stress, and decrease anxiety. The various options include a switch to flip, a joystick

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to move, and a depression that mimics a worry stone.

Made from vinyl and weighing in at 1.4 ounces, the Fidget Cube is easy to transport from home to office, and, as an added bonus, your co-workers will thank you for finally putting down that pen.

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The Mom & Pop Rock ’n’ Roll Shop

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By Michael J. Mooney / / Photography by Jeff Wilson

On the road with folk-rock duo Shovels & Rope (and their toddler, hound dog, and bluehaired nanny). june 2017 Southwest 59

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It’s like watching two parts of the same brain.

opposite Michael and Cary Ann at Broken Spoke in Austin

On stage, it’s just the two of them, taking turns on the drums and guitar, somehow creating the sound of a five-piece band, both singing, sometimes harmonizing, sometimes shouting over one another. Off stage, it’s not just that they finish each other’s sentences. Their words flow back and forth, a single stream of thoughts building on itself.

Michael Trent and Cary Ann Hearst are perched on a black vinyl bench backstage at the Granada Theater in Dallas, leaning in so close to each other that her tan Toms slip-ons keep brushing up against his black combat boots.

They’re talking about the day nearly seven years ago when they decided on the name of their band: Shovels & Rope. It was the day they decided they were going to take this whole thing seriously. By then they were married and had been working on separate music careers for 10 years each. He’d landed a deal with a big label and she’d had a song featured on the show True Blood. The idea of throwing that all away and starting anew was terrifying. They were also worried that going into business together might ruin a marriage they’d worked hard to build.

“I feel like we—” Cary Ann begins.

“We were going down to open up for—” Michael continues.

“For Hayes Carll, we were driving across—” Cary Ann says, trailing off a bit, unsure of the headliner.

“No, for Roddy,” he says, “and Deer Tick.”

“That’s it,” she says.

“In Birmingham,” he says. “And that’s why the song is called—” In unison, they both name the song they wrote about that discussion: “‘Birmingham.’”

Cary Ann has wavy red locks that seem to

glow in photos. She’s wearing a long skirt that looks like a quilt (in a good way) and a jean jacket with a NASA patch. Michael, a few inches taller with scruffs of dark facial hair, is in black jeans and a trucker hat from a bar in Portland, Oregon. A faded stamp from the Broken Spoke is still visible on the back of his hand. That’s where they were last night—their eighth anniversary—twirling and clinking bottles in one of those classic dusty dance halls on the south side of Austin. They had so much fun that they stayed up later than usual, and then struggled to sleep as the bus headed north through a powerful rolling thunderstorm. The deep rumbles of thunder and veins of lightning were cool, they agree, but they didn’t get much rest and woke up groggy in a parking lot in Dallas.

After a quick radio appearance to promote tonight’s show, they took their brindle hound dog, named Townes Van Zandt, and their toddler, Louisiana (they call her “Louie”), for a stroll down the tree-lined streets in the neighborhood around the venue. Then they had coffee under a shady tree, breathing in the muggy post-storm air. The winds and rain last night knocked the plastic red letters off the marquee at the Granada, the old movie house-turned-concert hall where they’ll perform in a few hours, so a team from the theater spent the morning sweeping up all the broken S’s and E’s from the sidewalk.

Cary Ann and Michael are both in their late 30s now, the kind of

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urban-dwelling artist do-gooders who might reside in any number of progressive neighborhoods in cities all over the country. They make Downton Abbey references, they have a big record collection, and, until they were gone touring so long that the snakes and coyotes came, they raised chickens behind their house in Charleston, South Carolina. She’s the outgoing, natural performer with an old-timey Tennessee drawl.

He’s the quiet engineer, more interested in the technical arrangements and the business side of the industry.

The duo has now headlined some of the country’s top venues, everywhere from the Ryman to Red Rocks to Radio City, and toured across Europe, too. They’ve played on Late Show with David Letterman (he loved them), and just about every North American outlet that covers music has gushed over them, including several rave reviews from NPR—which should give you some clue about their audience. It turns out they’ve been able to accomplish more together than either of them could alone.

The ballad they wrote about that important talk seven years ago won the 2013 Americana Music Association award for Song of the Year. The first lyrics they wrote became the last line of the song, words they sing together nearly every night: “On better terms since Birmingham.”

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he was born in Mississippi and raised in Tennessee, playing bluegrass with her family. She moved to Charleston for college, playing around town after she graduated.

He was born in Texas and grew up in Colorado. He was a quiet kid who wrote poetry he didn’t want to show anyone. He had a four-track recorder in high school and repeatedly maxed out the hard drive. He and his friends started an indie-pop band, The Films, that toured the U.S. as well as Japan and Germany.

The first time they saw each other was on a Sunday night in 2002 or 2003. Cary Ann was playing with a country band at a bar called Fluids that her then-boyfriend owned. Michael’s band was in Charleston to open for a popular local act.

“Charleston is a small town,” Michael says.

“The artist scene is—” “Intimate,” Cary Ann continues. “Our thing was the thing to do on Sunday nights.” She says

Showstoppers

These aren’t your typical performances. See a concert... … with Willie Nelson / Every March, Luck Reunion unfolds at the country legend’s ranch, just outside of Austin, Texas.

Artists perform in a barn, saloon, and church, all of which were built for the film Red Headed Stranger.

… where stars are born / Catch a

concert in the heart of Los Angeles at one of The Hotel Café’s two stages, adorned with exposed brick and funky light fixtures.

… on the National Mall / Washington, D.C.’s Sylvan Theater hosts free outdoor concerts throughout the summer as part of “Music at the Monument.”

… in a historic venue / Toast the

Bluebird Café’s 35th anniversary by seeing a singer-songwriter at the cozy Nashville institution, which seats just 90 people.

… by an up-and-comer / Tucked

away in the Atlanta suburb of Decatur, Eddie’s Attic has hosted the likes of John Mayer, Sugarland, and The Civil Wars before they made it big. Grab a pre-show dinner around the corner at Iberian Pig.

… at a museum / Not only does Phoenix’s Musical Instrument Museum house more than 6,500 instruments from 200 countries, it also touts a concert series with genres ranging from folk to jazz.

… under the stars / For nearly four

decades, Fort Lauderdale has held its Starlight Musicals summer concert series in Holiday Park. The performances are free, but don’t forget to bring lawn chairs and a picnic basket.

… at a moment’s notice / Sofar

Sounds takes house shows to the next level. The location isn’t announced until the day before the gig, and the artists—who range from local acts to notable names like Leon Bridges—are a surprise until you show up.

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all of her friends immediately noticed when Michael’s band walked in.

“We were kind of glammed out a little bit,” Michael says. “The tightest pants and makeup and everything.”

They didn’t actually meet until a few weeks later, when they were on the same lineup at the Georgia Theatre, in Athens, Georgia. They remember shaking hands.

“I’m Cary Ann.” “I’m Mike.”

When Michael’s band moved to Charleston not long after, Cary Ann’s guitarist became Michael’s roommate. Both of them were still dating other people, but not for long. “You broke up with your girlfriend because your long-distance relationship wasn’t working out,” she says, as they recount the story together. “And my short-distance relationship wasn’t working out. So we got single and we were kind of playing music and our bands were hanging out and we started flirting with each other and I fell for Michael pretty quickly.”

He had some recording equipment at his apartment and invited her over to record some tracks. He says he began to fall in love with her when he heard the music she’d been writing on her own. “I heard the way she described people and places and events and I heard compassion in her music. I think I probably fell in love with that. I liked where she was coming from as a person.”

They dated on and off for a few years, breaking up when he moved to New York with his band in 2006. He moved back to Charleston in 2008, though, and asked Cary Ann if she wanted to make a record with him. “My band was still going, and her band was still going,” Michael says.

“We just wanted to do this. For one thing, we were sort of getting back together. We sort of used it as an excuse to get back together and write songs together and use music as a catalyst for that. So we made that with no intention of doing anything other than just making art.”

They called the record they made Shovels & Rope. Two dirty, gritty items

“I heard compassion in her music,” Michael says. “I think I probably fell in love with that.” you might find lying around the house. They do very different things, but they sort of go well together.

Most of the songs on the album are about murder and death, tales inspired by history and literature and an outlaw country ethos. It was just the two of them, playing with and over and, at times, against each other, evincing a shack-rattling racket. So many of the things that have become their hallmark staples were there in those early days. Not long after finishing the record, they got married at an old vineyard in Charleston.

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A Recorded History of Shovels & Rope

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ichael’s band was, as he puts it, “waning,” and the next year both husband and wife recorded their own solo albums. They still had day jobs—she as a waitress and he at a catering company and a chicken farm—but they played together around town for a little extra cash. They’d play a few songs from her album, a few from his, and a few from the record they’d written together.

“The first time you saw us at a bar we’d sell you three CDs for $25,” Cary Ann says. She recalls the old sales pitch: “There’s definitely $25 worth of music over these three records!”

Audiences started liking the duo more than they liked either of them individually. They took fewer catering and waitressing shifts and started playing more often, becoming a local draw. By the fall of 2010, they realized they had a decision to make. That’s when they had that conversation on the way to Birmingham.

Were they really a band now? Were they scrapping their solo careers, whatever success they’d scratched out? They were both used to being in charge. Could they really agree to call the shots together?

“It was a practice of letting go of ego and expectations and control,” Cary Ann says. “It was this very Buddhist exercise in surrendering to the cosmos and taking a leap of faith, but also committing to do the work.”

They decided they’d stick with the name they’d given that first album they recorded together and called the band Shovels & Rope. “If anybody had seen our band and liked us enough to buy that record,” Cary Ann says, “we figured that would have some subconscious connection.”

They say they also agreed on some ground rules. The first: Their relationship was not for sale at the merchandise table. “We were going to be super private about our marriage,” Cary Ann says. “We were not going to talk about it to anybody ever.”

They look at each other, then at me, a reporter who’s been asking about their

2008 How it all began: the one-off album that begot the marriage and, eventually, the band.

marriage for quite some time now, and then back at each other. They laugh and shrug.

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ometimes younger couples will approach Michael and Cary Ann to say that they inspired them to form a musical duo. Michael says he tries to be polite, but he knows how hard this life is. Plenty of wife-andhusband music groups have broken up 2012 over the years. “It’s not easy,” he says.

Features the hit “Birmingham,” which they played on Late “Especially in the early days. There’s a Show with David Letterman. lot of sacrifice. There’s a lot of ridiculous situations you find yourself in. A blizzard in Pittsburgh in a Wal-Mart parking lot. You have to take the dog out so he can have a [crap] and he just won’t. Or opening up that night for an open mic comedy night and no2014 body was there. They weren’t even coLanded at No. 21 on the Billmedians; they were like lawyers and board 200; steeped in stories from the Deep South. doctors.”

“That doctor was really funny though,” Cary Ann says.

“He really was.”

It’s tough to make any money from streaming services, and not many people buy actual albums anymore. The 2015 only way to make a living as a musiCollaborated with friends to cian is touring. So they toured ceasecover artists ranging from Ellessly, playing more than 200 shows a vis Costello to Guns N’ Roses. year. Because there were only two of them and they drove the old van from The Films, they made a great (read: cheap) opening act. Most contracts require that gigs are at least 100 miles apart. “We just drove in these little 100-mile radiuses,” Cary Ann says, 2016 “across the South, out West, until we Produced after the birth of made curlicues all over the country.” their daughter; their most rock-leaning album yet.

“It was kind of romantic,” Michael says. “Just us and the dog in the van.”

“It was totally romantic,” she says.

They’ve both learned over the years how to talk calmly about disagreements, and they don’t fight much. When they do, it’s often about her free-flowing style of play. Michael orchestrates the engineering and arrangements, meaning he CONTINUED ON PAGE 84

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by Brin-Jonathan Butler photography by Mary Beth Koeth

THE GHOST What Cuba’s legendary chess maestro—and the island’s enduring love affair with the game—reveals about the country’s uncertain future.

OF CAPABLANCA

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A

After a summer hustling speed chess in Vancouver to raise funds for my first visit to Havana, in 2000, I met an antique bookseller on the plane ride over who helped me find an apartment in a magical neighborhood just off the Plaza de la Revolución, where Fidel Castro still delivered speeches that occasionally ran for seven hours. A dignified 81-year-old retired doorman stood guard of the street. After moving from his job at Hotel Nacional de Cuba to the newly opened Habana Hilton, he was on duty when Castro and Che Guevara arrived in January 1959 to commandeer the top two floors for their government headquarters. I quickly made friends with all the families on the street.

They took me in with more warmth and generosity than the neighborhood where I grew up. I’d been warned about the poverty in Havana; instead, these people illuminated a poverty of spirit I didn’t know I’d had back home.

I returned to Havana the first chance I could and tried to reconnect with the bookseller. He’d told me on the plane that the only thing that disappointed him about Havana was having to leave it. I found out he’d been granted his wish— cirrhosis took his life and he was laid to rest in Havana’s Colón Cemetery. When I got back to the street he’d introduced me to, everyone else had left too. The doorman had died, and the others had found various means off the island. I asked one June 2017 Southwest 69

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of my few remaining friends on the block what I should do. “Resolver,” he said. Figure it out.

I finally found a place in a very different neighborhood: Cayo Hueso in Centro Habana. People in the street led me to a door up the road from a barber shop, caged bird store, and crushed sugarcane juice stand. I knocked and a latch swung open behind a peephole. A dark burly man with swimming-pool blue eyes unlocked the door and held it open a crack. He had as little English as I had Spanish, so instead of embarking on the usual frustrating pantomime negotiations about the room for rent, he held out two upside-down clenched fists and motioned for me to choose one.

This is a ritual he’s repeated every time I’ve seen him for the last 15 years.

I pointed to his left fist, and he opened it to unveil a white knight chess piece. He smirked.

“Bueno. Usted primera.” I had first move. He invited me up onto his padlocked rooftop, where his daughter brought a small mug of coffee, two shot glasses of Havana Club rum, and a scratched-up chessboard. His loyal dog, Venus, jumped into his lap and he stroked her fur, and over his shoulder was the most beautiful sunset I had ever seen.

I gestured to it, and he solemnly pointed to the board before us. Chess, it was obvious, offered him a view more haunting and lovely than any sunset.

Today this gentleman—let’s call him Fernando—and his wife rent a room in their Centro Habana neighborhood on Airbnb. But many years before Airbnb was legal in Cuba and renting rooms to foreigners was subject to fines and even seizure of property, he provided for his family by secretly leasing a room on the roof of a four-story walk up.

Fernando has Chinese, Spanish, African, and German blood, and it seemed to inform all the features of his face with a noble and almost magical harmony of purpose: getting me to play one more game. On the streets below us, amidst cigar smoke and diesel fumes, the slap of dominoes was heard well into the night, while Fernando and I were invariably playing chess up above. His chessboard was always waiting on his roof, freshly reset with pieces or, more likely, frozen where a game was left off. Up there, Fernando also read from one of a dozen books reliving the games of José Raúl Capablanca, his beloved hero and Cuba’s greatest chess champion. It was Fernando who introduced me to Capablanca. I was obsessed with Bobby Fischer, but for Fernando there was only one gran maestro, not only on the chessboard, but as an artist, a scientist, a philosopher.

Fernando has a booming voice that dipped into a panicked hush for only two men: Castro and Capablanca. In all the years I’ve known him, he’s never mentioned Castro by name. Instead he 70 Southwest June 2017

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motions by grabbing an imaginary beard or simply refers to “Him.” Capablanca receives the same treatment for entirely different reasons.

His genius was mystical. “Capablanca,” Fernando whispered, “was born in 1888 in Havana to a Spanish army officer. That was the only ordinary thing about him.” He won the world championship every year from 1921 until 1927 and is regarded as one of the great artists of the game. “But he was bigger than the game!” Fernando assured maniacally. “The Yuma at Time magazine put him on the cover in 1925. Brinicito, do you know the other men who were on Time magazine that year? Winston Churchill! Charlie Chaplin! Leon Trotsky! John D. Rockefeller!” He lost only 35 games in his entire professional career, and upon dying in 1942—while watching a chess game at New York’s Manhattan Chess Club—his body was sent back to Havana and honored with a state funeral.

Chess had arrived in Cuba more

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than four centuries earlier, aboard Columbus’ Spanish ships in 1492, and while the shackles of colonialization were broken with Cuba’s revolution in 1959, chess’ hold on the island nation has proved considerably more durable. They joke in Cuba that what King Midas was to gold, Castro was to politics, but Fernando likes to remind me that

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chess is 1,500 years old and will be around long after communism or capitalism. “Like a great book that never finishes what it has to say, chess is no closer to being solved.

It only gets more beautiful as people try in vain. Just like life off the board, we all resolver.”

Resolver—“to resolve” or, colloquially, “to get by”—remains

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one of the most vital words in the Cuban vocabulary. Considering the new and unknown challenges ahead for Cubans, perhaps it’s not surprising that chess has never flourished more.

The last time I’d seen Fernando was during Barack Obama’s March 2016 visit to the island, the first time a sitting American president had done so in 88 years. In November, I watched from back home in New York as the island experienced an even bigger political dis-

claimed his brilliance lay in intuition rather than calculation. It was almost supernatural.”

Stories about the genesis of Capablanca’s genius all have the same basic coordinates regardless of the storyteller, but every version blossoms with unique awe. Pandolfini told of how, at 4 years old, Capablanca was watching his father and uncle play one afternoon. His uncle went to the bathroom, and Capablanca notified his father that his uncle had cheated with his knight.

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Considering the new and unknown challenges ahead for Cubans, perhaps it’s not surprising that chess has never flourished more.

ruption: the death of Fidel Castro, who had inhabited the island like Moby Dick in a goldfish bowl. In January, I wrote Fernando to see if he would help me dig deeper into Cuba’s chess history. I wanted to understand its relevance to today’s culture, and how it might illuminate the tidal waves of change on the island. He wrote back and suggested we begin at the Capablanca Chess Club, the first place he went after his own father could no longer give him a decent game.

♕♛

Before leaving for Cuba, I met with Bruce Pandolfini at a diner near his Manhattan home. Pandolfini is one of the most sought after—and probably the most famous—chess instructors in history. He served as the Manhattan Chess Club’s executive director from 1984 until 1987. “Capablanca was called invincible,” Pandolfini told me, wiping coffee from his mustache. “Capablanca always

(Capablanca maintained an obsession with knights all his life, and no other player has ever been more of a magician with them.) His father didn’t believe his son knew how to play and challenged him to a game. According to some, Capablanca played his father to a draw.

“There are so many myths,” Pandolfini said, laughing. “They all take on a life of their own.”

Pandolfini brought along private artifacts given to him by Capablanca’s late widow, Olga: unpublished photos, a letter, Capablanca’s personal Cuban National Bank book with a lone deposit for $6,000 from his winnings on December 23, 1941. Pandolfini also showed me a prized book of Russian chess openings that a teenaged Bobby Fischer had once carried all over New York for a year. Midway through the book was Fischer’s clunky and strangely printed signature: “BOBBY” in all caps and “fischer” lowercased. In 1965, when Bobby Fischer was denied entry to Cuba for the José

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Raúl Capablanca Memorial (the Bay of Pigs invasion had increased tensions between Cuba and the U.S.), Fischer competed in the tournament by telex from inside the Marshall Chess Club in New York.

Pandolfini relayed Fischer’s moves while José Raúl Capablanca Jr., Capablanca’s only son, did the same for Fischer’s opponent in Havana.

Fischer lost, and the following year he was granted entry to Cuba and competed in several exhibitions on

the island, including one against Fidel Castro. (Castro won.)

“Olga always believed in reincarnation,” Pandolfini told me while repacking the artifacts in his leather bag. Paul Morphy, the greatest player of his era, died in 1884, and Capablanca was born four years later. Olga believed Morphy’s spirit entered her husband’s body. Capablanca died in 1942, and a year and a day later, on March 9, 1943, Fischer was born. “She was

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certain Capablanca’s spirit went into Bobby’s genius,” Pandolfini said. “For her it was all a continuation. Fischer always adored Capablanca’s games. When he played the match on telex during the Capablanca Memorial in Havana, he played on a table Capablanca had donated to New York.”

♔♚

After landing in Havana in March, a ’57 Chevy taxi takes me from the airport past the Plaza de la Revolución, where murals of Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos climb several stories across a pair of buildings. All the driver can talk about is the local taxi strike.

Queues of stranded commuters are gathered all along the highway, and their ranks increase as we edge closer to the heart of the city.

We swing past the gates of Colón Cemetery, where Capablanca is buried, his grave marked with a white queen chess piece. Fernando brought me to the grave after our first handful of games. Vendors sold paper funnels of peanuts outside, and Fernando bought a half-dozen for our tour. “Peanuts everywhere,” he said, tossing a handful into his mouth. “Yet peanut butter has yet to be discovered on the island.” It was one of a thousand paradoxes he navigated every day. He worked at a hospital fulltime but had struggled to support his family until he began renting out the spare room in his apartment. He hated the risks, but what choice was there? He introduced me to the chess term zugzwang, a situation in which you’re forced to move but every available move puts you in a worse position. “Resolver,” he said, shrugging.

Driving into town, it’s clear that all of Havana is dealing with change. For years, Cuba’s connection to the outside world via the internet has been miserably limited and terribly expensive. Now the government sells one-hour internet cards for 2 Cuban pesos, which

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are snatched up by entrepreneurial locals and scalped with a 50 percent markup. Cellphones were once rare; now they are as ubiquitous in Havana as any other major city.

(When the Rolling Stones played the largest concert in Cuban history just after Obama left last year, what amazed me more than the estimated 500,000 people in attendance was how the audience experienced the event: behind a phalanx of iPhones. Just like everywhere else.) Wi-Fi locations all over the city are filled with clusters of young Cubans nodding off into the glow of their phones. Of the 30 friends I made who were around my age during my first trip to the island in 2000, only five of them remain in Cuba. The rest started new lives in Miami, Spain, Austria, Canada, and elsewhere. While pawns are the most vulnerable piece on the chessboard, they are also the only piece capable of transforming into something entirely new, provided they make the perilous journey across the board.

♗♝

I drop off my things and catch a cab down to the Malecón, Havana’s famous boardwalk, where Fernando is waiting to join me at the Capablanca Chess Club (just down the hill from the Hotel Tryp Habana Libre, where the first Capablanca Memorial was played in 1962). When I climb out of the cab, a wave crashes over the seawall and splashes a bicycle taxi carrying two tourists in the backseat. I greet Fernando, who’s carrying a chessboard under his arm, and he tells me he’s arranged a meeting with José Antonio Hedman, one of the professional players who works with children at the club. “Do you know where the money came from for the first Capablanca Memorial tournament?” Fernando asks.

I shrug.

“Che Guevara raised the money.

Later on, he regularly played against visiting grandmasters.

5/9/17 9:00 AM

“Life in Cuba is about solving problems.

Chess skills help us a great deal on and off theboard.”

Even Bobby Fischer. Che’s father took him to a tournament when he was a boy growing up in Buenos Aires, and he saw Capablanca playing. That’s where he first got addicted to chess and also where he first learned about the country where Capablanca came from.

Che and the Cuban government invested huge amounts of money to support the game.”

Standing before the entrance of the club, it’s clear that those investments weren’t aimed at ostentatiousness. There’s a large row of pink-framed windows nestled into a cream-colored cement exterior, the paint chipped and peeling from the salty sea breeze. Next to the front door, “CLUB CAPABLANCA” rests above a plaque commemorating the centennial of Capablanca’s birth. The club itself has been in operation for almost a century.

Inside, the mint green walls are mostly bare, save for a schedule of lessons and events and a greenand-white magnetic chessboard hung behind an office desk. Aside from the two club managers’ desks pushed up against one wall and a row of tables emblazoned with eight chessboards on the other side of the room, the club is filled only with sunlight. Somehow the place feels a bit like an abandoned church. Inspecting the greenand-white squares on the wooden boards, I slide my index finger inside the grooves worn from excessive use.

Fernando and I sit opposite Hedman, a painted board between us. “Life in Cuba,” he explains, “is about solving challenging problems. The skills chess offers help us a great deal on and off the board.”

Chess is taught in nearly all

P2_chess_kt.indd 79

Cuban elementary and high schools, and in 2003, universities began offering chess degrees. A year later, with 13,000 players taking on 500 chess masters, Cuba broke the world record for the largest simultaneous chess exhibition in history. In 2008, Cuban grandmaster Leinier Domínguez

won the World Blitz Championship. While Domínguez is a long way from rivaling Capablanca’s accomplishments, he’s hovered around the top 20 of the world’s best chess players for some time.

This didn’t happen by accident.

After Castro banned professional sports in 1962, huge resources were devoted to making Cuba a global powerhouse in baseball, boxing, and chess. The symbolic value of triumph in these fields during the

5/9/17 8:59 AM

Cold War paid huge dividends.

Cuba went on to dominate Olympic boxing and international baseball, and, for an island of only 11 million people, Cuba has so far produced an astounding 43 chess grandmasters.

Hedman invites Fernando and me to an upcoming exhibition at the Meliá Cohiba Hotel. Some of the children Hedman has worked with at the club, he tells us, are eager to glimpse their chess heroes.

Domínguez might even be in attendance.

♘♞

When I spot Fernando’s taxi approaching the Meliá Cohiba the morning of the exhibition, the driver is frantically trying to dodge a patchwork of sea puddles. Fernando hops out and sniffs around the hotel for the exhibition, but nothing advertises it, so he asks

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the security guards inside for help.

They suggest we ask the front desk. No luck there either. A different security guard approaches and advises us to try the Hotel Riviera next door. Nobody at the Riviera has any clue what we’re talking about, so we’re back to square one in the lobby of the Meliá Cohiba.

“Cuba neo,” Fernando moans. Only in Cuba. Just then Hedman taps me on the shoulder.

“You made it,” he says, smiling.

“There is good news and bad news I have for you. Domínguez will not be here this morning. However, one of our best gran maestros will be here, Lázaro Bruzón.”

A crowd of equal parts children and adults gathers around the restaurant next to the hotel entrance, and at 8:30 a.m., we’re let inside a surreal room furnished with jukeboxes, 1950s American convertibles, and aging Cessna planes. Dozens of tables surround a stage with a screen hanging over a main chess table—the centerpiece on display.

Hedman approaches with Bruzón, still boyish at 34, at his side. After shaking hands, Bruzón explains he learned chess from a neighbor when he was 7. By 9, he’d devoted his life to the game, and the Cuban government recognized a prodigy in its midst. At 18, he won the World Junior Chess Championship, but now, 16 years later, he explains that he is cutting back on international tournaments. He’s receding from a life perpetually in the orbit of chess, a confession that is accompanied by a mix of mournfulness and relief. “I am immensely proud to have represented my country around the world,” he tells me.

There’s an ease about Bruzón’s demeanor that leaves an impression on me. It’s a stark contrast to the lingering tension and friction felt by elite Cuban athletes in other sports. “Have any of the top Cuban chess players left the island?” I ask Fernando after Bruzón excuses himself.

5/9/17 8:59 AM

“None that I know of,” he says.

“Chess players who devote their lives to chess probably live much more comfortably here than they would in a different system.”

Which makes sense. I’ve interviewed some of Cuba’s finest boxers and baseball players. In many cases, they’ve rejected the vast fortunes that come with leaving the island and crossing 90 miles to compete in the U.S. While none openly regret their decision, they lead lives much like double-exposed photographs, always wondering how they would have fared if they had left. Over the last 10 years, Cuban baseball and boxing have been gutted by international poaching. But not chess. On top of having their needs looked after, chess players in Cuba are seen as something between an athlete and an artist. They might be more appreciated and respected here than anywhere else.

After turning the matter over, Fernando puts his hand on my shoulder. “We admire la lucha [“the struggle”] as much on the chessboard as we do in the boxing ring. Our lives here have always been a struggle, and approaching that struggle with the courage of a boxer or the cunning and intelligence of a chess player is something that commands our respect.

The same rules apply in a boxing ring or on the chessboard or growing up in our crazy system: resolver.

Many places around the world are confronted with the same thing.

They just don’t have our sense of style.”

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After the exhibition concludes, kids still hunched over chess tables, Fernando tucks his chessboard under his arm and suggests we go to Cojímar, 10 miles east of Havana, where he grew up and first learned to play. We catch a taxi on the Malecón and head toward the lighthouse. Just before we plunge into the shadowy-yellow

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glow inside the eastbound tunnel out of Havana, I watch as fishermen cast their lines toward Miami and a gigantic cruise ship enters the harbor.

When we emerge on the other side, very little civilization remains. We close in on a spooky unguarded tollbooth, beyond it only palm trees and giant street lights outstretched like a diver’s arms before takeoff. We pass a stagnant-looking stadium built for the Pan American Games 25 years ago, a paint-chipped mural of Che staring out from inside of what looks like the upside-down ribcage of Jonah’s whale. Soon after, Fernando taps the driver’s shoulder from the backseat and we walk the rest of the way into his village.

As we wind through the outskirts of Cojímar, the sea comes into view and we spot the long wooden pier that was once home to Ernest Hemingway’s boat, Pilar.

Near the pier is the Torreón de Cojímar, a battered fort built in 1649 to protect Havana.

A bus of tourists pulls in to visit La Terraza, Hemingway’s favorite local restaurant, but Fernando’s spot is a laid-back rooftop restaurant on a nearby backstreet, perched above a Dalí-like set of stairs. When we arrive, a local boy is posted in front of the stairs, holding a varnished wooden object the size of a sunglasses case. He holds out the box and asks in English if I’ve ever seen a “romance box” before. I shake my head, and he smirks and seamlessly pulls it apart, holding out both halves of the box with his arms spread wide.

He brings the pieces back together and effortlessly repeats the gesture once more. “I’ll give you 30 seconds with it,” he tells me. “If you can open the box, it’s yours to give to the one you love. If you cannot open it, then you must pay me 10 pesos to keep it.” He quickly opens and shuts the box again with a blurring sleight of hand. “See how easy it is?”

I glance over at Fernando, but

5/9/17 8:59 AM

“I asked her to go on a date with me,” Fernando says.

“But first I wrote a secret message and put it inside the box.”

he’s too busy staring at the boy to offer any counsel. So, gullibly yet determinedly, I play the sucker. “¡Vamos!” he says, staring at his watch. I feverishly work the thing over like a Rubik’s Cube until the boy hollers, “¡Tiempo! Diez pesos por favor.” I absentmindedly hand the box to Fernando and fish my pockets for the boy’s fee. When I fork it over, the boy is no longer paying attention to me. He’s staring at Fernando, who is calmly repeating the boy’s opening and closing demonstration.

“How?” I gasp.

“I had the same job here when

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I was his age,” Fernando says.

“But”—and he suddenly switches over to Spanish—“when I saw a girl I loved at first sight, I asked her for something more if she couldn’t solve the romance box in 30 seconds.”

“What?” I ask.

“I asked her to go on a date with me. But first I wrote a secret message and put it inside the box.

When she couldn’t open the box, we went on our first date and I gave her the box as a gift.”

“What did you write in the note?” the boy asks. His swagger has left him.

“I asked her to marry me.” He laughs and passes me the box, freeing up his hands to dig through his pockets for a black and a white chess piece. He holds them in his clenched fists and motions for me to tap one, but the boy interrupts.

“What happened to the girl?” he implores.

Fernando ignores the question and grunts for me to choose a fist. I do, and Fernando holds out a white queen in his palm.

“Did you ever see the girl again?” the boy asks deliriously.

“Of course I did. I saw her this morning, when I cooked breakfast for her and our daughter.”

Fernando turns and winks at me.

“Resolver.”

Brin-Jonathan Butler is the author of The Domino Diaries: My Decade Boxing with Olympic Champions and Chasing Hemingway’s Ghost in the Last Days of Castro’s Cuba.

Email him at brinjonathanbutler@ gmail.com.

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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 64

spends weeks plotting out the various parts of songs they’ve written together. Cary Ann, always a bit more spontaneous, likes to be playful when they practice.

He nods when she mentions it.

“Even if it doesn’t have to go on stage that way,” he says, “it’s still like, ‘Could you just try it the way I spent all this time working it out?’”

Their songs are inspired by everything from dreams to Civil War history to characters from Flannery O’Connor and Cormac McCarthy stories. They read a lot of books together, most recently The Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks and All the Light We Cannot See. One year, as they toured, they listened to all of the Game of Thrones audiobooks. (“I kind of want that year back,” Michael says.)

He often wears a Western-style shirt on stage, and she’s all made up, her hair bouncing with the stomp of her boots. They stand up and switch seats depending on the song, trading instruments—between the two of them they play at least eight or nine. When they sing, they almost always sing together, one voice on top of the other. They make eye contact for much of the show, so they’re constantly signaling to one another, chasing and matching each other vocally. When they get it just right, it’s some sort of mesmerizing ballet.

They recorded their first serious album, O’ Be Joyful, in the studio Michael set up in their house, with a few guest appearances recorded between gigs in their van. The more they toured, the more word spread. They’d often do a round of rock or country venues, and then return to the same cities a few months later to play more laidback, acoustic joints.

They’ve continued this cycle— recording an album at home, then touring—for five years. Each tour gets a little bigger, and over the years, their name has moved up the marquee. They eventually traded their old van in for a sleek

RV. Then, when they had the baby in September 2015, they upgraded to a tour bus.

D

uring sound check at the Granada in Dallas, Cary Ann and Michael play parts of every song Michael has chosen for tonight’s set list. A lingering cold means that Cary Ann can’t quite hit some of her usual notes, so they adjust accordingly, and after a little more than an hour, they go for another walk.

Townes, the brindle hound, comes along again, but this time the baby stays with Julie, the bluehaired “rock ’n’ roll Mary Poppins.”

Julie is one of eight other adults riding on the tour bus, all of whom chip in with caring for Louie and Townes in addition to more standard tour responsibilities. Michael says he thinks of it “like any other small mom-and-pop business, where we balance each other out with our strengths and our weaknesses and divide and conquer.” To Cary Ann, life on the bus is more like a ship. “Everyone has their jobs, everything has its place, and every morning you wake up in a new town.”

They’d like to have more kids soon, and they’d like to take those kids out on the road with them, too. At least until “school becomes a thing,” as Michael puts it. Then there’s the possibility of homeschooling, but they’ll deal with that when it’s time. If the kids love music, maybe they’ll join the band.

“That’s my dream,” Cary Ann says. “It’s kind of the point of this band.”

She’s quick to add that they’ll support their kids’ dreams no matter what, like their parents have with them. “If you’re into music, we’ll get behind you and help you,” she says, imagining the conversation with her kids—wherever it might take place. “But if you’re trying to be a sailor or something, if that’s what your passion is, we’ll invest in your sails.”

5/9/17 9:30 AM

Michael J. Mooney writes for Texas Monthly and GQ. Shoot him a note at mjmooney@gmail.com.

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As they walk block to block with the dog, they talk about growing older, about the new worry with cholesterol numbers, about Michael’s father’s gut-wrenching battle with Alzheimer’s. They talk about trying to secure themselves financially in case there’s a time when it’s not feasible for them to be on the road so much. Then Townes squats, and Michael produces a small bag and retrieves it.

Soon their team—which handles everything from merchandise to the sound board to the tour management—gathers backstage.

Michael and Cary Ann put the baby to bed on the bus. Cary Ann puts on her makeup, and they both get dressed for the show. Then they “kiss the baby,” a nightly ritual where everyone passes around a bottle of tequila or whiskey and takes a shot. Then it’s show time.

The theater is packed. It’s mostly people in their 30s, professionals enjoying a weeknight out. The lines at the bars are long.

When Cary Ann and Michael take the stage, there’s a prolonged roar.

Vintage film clips are projected onto rugged planks of wood behind them as they play, rotating through acoustic and electric guitars, a drum kit, a mandolin, a shaker, a keyboard, a harmonica.

There’s some polite banter, enough for everyone to hear her sugary accent, and they play a mix of haunting ballads and foot-stomping sing-alongs and heavy, almost grungy rock. People near the stage can see the couple looking at each other, but even in the very back you can feel the energy they’re generating together.

When the show ends, they unwind with a nightcap on the bus and try for sleep. The last of the gear is loaded around 2 a.m., and they head off into the night. Tomorrow they’ll wake up in a new city hundreds of miles away.

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MYGENETX PROMOTIONAL SECTION

MYGENETX:

HOW ONE COMPANY IS EMPOWERING PREVENTIVE HEALTH CARE

One of the most recent developments in modern medicine doesn’t cure a disease or heal an injury.

Instead, individual genetic information is used to help prevent health problems before they start. One company at the forefront of this trend, Tennessee-based MyGenetx, illustrates the possibilities of this promising new direction.

BY MICHAEL W. BROUGH

THE METHOD

Unlocking the individual human genetic makeup has provided an alternative way to monitor chronic conditions like high blood pressure, diabetes, depression, and hypothyMyGenetx is transforming health and healthcare through precisionroidism. medicine.

Formarkers example, a Genetic indicate how medications willimproperly affect each staggering 30% of patients diagnosed with depression or anxiety disorders may be individual, and MyGenetx is putmedicated. A simple PGT test will deliver guidance to doctors and healthcare providers. ting that knowledge into practice in an area called pharmacogenetics (PGT). With a simple oral rinse, Phone number is 844 694 2722 MyGenetx can glean genetic inforMyHap22 mation to confirm not just which I would like to spell out MyHap22 and have the number with it please. medication is right for each patient, but also the precise dosage and frequency for the best result. Just as important: It can alert your doctor to medications that are safe for most patients but harmful to you. MyGenetx combines that information with other data—including weight, age, lifestyle, and other medications you take—to work out a safe and effective way to control chronic conditions and help prevent health issues in the future.

“What we’re doing ushers in a new era of personalized medicine,” says MyGenetx Chief Scientific Officer Dave Vigerust, Ph.D. “Each person is different, and our data allow doctors to prescribe medications precisely, with each individual patient in mind.”

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Southwest PGT 5/10/17 2:13 PM

Changing the way people are diagnosed and treated around the world

MyGenetx is transforming health and healthcare through precision medicine. For example, a staggering 30% of patients diagnosed with depression or anxiety disorders may be improperly medicated. A simple PGT test will deliver guidance to doctors and healthcare providers.

— Get the right prescription and the right dose for you based on your unique genetic makeup.

— You or a loved one with diabetes can reduce your risk of heart attack or stroke by up to 500% with early intervention.

— Personal genetic testing to help you prevent and treat depression.

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE Physicians MyGenetx offers the best solutions to help deliver the best in quality care, outcomes, building patient engagement while creating cost savings.

Patient MyGenetx delivers the best treatment of care creating better outcomes and quality of life.

Healthcare MyGenetx delivers tremendous cost savings for best healthcare spending.

MyGenetx tests are ordered only by physician or healthcare provider.

TALK TO YOUR PHYSICIAN TODAY!

Visit MyGenetx.com or call 844-MyHap22 (844-694-2722) for more information.

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MYGENETX PROMOTIONAL SECTION

FOCUSING ON PREVENTION

One way, MyGenetx applies PGT is with patients with diabetes and haptoglobin genotyping. Patients with diabetes have an increased risk of heart attack and stroke, but some suffer notably higher risk than others. Recent research shows that patients with diabetes who have a variation of the haptoglobin gene called Hp2-2 are five times more likely to suffer from heart attack or stroke than patients with diabetes who do not have the Hp2-2 gene.

According to MyGenetx, with a daily supplement, those with Hp22 can reduce their risk of cardiovascular disease to the same level as non-Hp2-2 patients. On the other hand, some studies suggest nonHp2-2 patients increase their chance of cardiovascular disease when they take the same supplement. MyGenetx haptoglobin genotyping aims to remove the guesswork and helps patients with diabetes and this invisible genetic characteristic prevent a life-altering cardiac event.

MyGenetx also specializes in cardio genetic sequencing to help diagnose cardiac disorders and discern predispositions. Results from MyGenetx testing, combined with imaging, can help cardiologists detect aortic disorders, cardiomyopathies, arrhythmias, and many other structural heart problems.

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With advance warning, clinicians may recommend more-frequent ultrasounds, preventive blood pressure meds, or even preemptive surgical strengthening of vessel walls.

“This new information empowers both the doctor and the patient and allows them to make educated decisions to preserve the patient’s health,” says Dr. Vigerust.

BODY AND MIND

MyGenetx also employs PGT for the benefit of psychiatric patients and individuals who experience high levels of stress.

Psychiatrists can now prescribe medications using data from an individual’s genetic makeup to help determine the right drug combination, dosage, and schedule for each patient. This can be especially helpful for those suffering from depression, anxiety, bipolar disorder, or post-traumatic stress disorder because instead of tweaking prescriptions for a period of months, clinicians can better tailor them to the patient from the start.

In this area, MyGenetx has a special commitment to America’s Military Veterans and is actively working on PGT solutions to help them cope with PTSD, anxiety, and depression. The solutions for this target population can also help others overcome similar struggles and get them help sooner.

MyGenetx also focuses on individuals in high-pressure, highperformance jobs who can be at a higher risk for certain conditions.

Prioritizing executive wellness is particularly beneficial for companies because health-related absences can significantly affect their organizations.

MyGenetx recognizes this and works with specialty and concierge physicians to help them better understand their patients’ backgrounds. Because executive and concierge health care tends to take a more personalized approach (spending ample time to examine and engage each patient), genetic testing is an especially good fit.

THE FUTURE

MyGenetx gene testing and algorithms make sense of complex interactions between combinations of genetic traits, medications, lifestyles, and biometric data. But these revolutionary advances are merely a foundation for the possible breakthroughs to come.

MyGenetx is hopeful about continuing to make inroads for cardiology and diabetes, and plans to focus on other important areas, including specialized oncology and obesity. Right now, MyGenetx testing captures information on nearly 50 genes, but future advances will multiply that number—and multiply the benefits.

“In the end, we want to see a future where all of us have the benefit of our personal genetic information,” says Dr. Vigerust, “and can use that information to lead healthier lives.”

Dr. Vigerust says many doctors still don’t know the technology is available now. For that reason, he encourages patients to be proactive and ask their doctor if genetic testing is right for them.

In the end, these innovations don’t reveal more about disease.

They reveal more about each of us, with potentially lifesaving results.

5/10/17 2:13 PM

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Patient FAQs What is a MyHap2™ test?

A simple test to let you and your doctor or healthcare provider know if you are at a LOW, INTERMEDIATE, or HIGH RISK level of a heart attack or stroke.

A daily supplement will reduce this increased risk.

Why take the test?

1 out of 3 people diagnosed with diabetes have up to a 500% greater risk of having a heart attack or stroke. However, a daily supplement will reduce this increased risk.

Can’t I just take a daily supplement?

Your doctor or healthcare provider will have important guidance from your test results on the precise supplement regimen your body needs. 64% of diabetics have a normal functioning genotype and do not need supplements and studies have even shown that supplements could increase risk in those individuals.

1 in 3 patients with diabetes

are at a 500% increased risk of suffering a heart attack or stroke A simple oral rinse genetic test can identify those at risk and determine a daily supplement to reduce the possibility of a cardiovascular event.

MyHap2™ A proprietary test of MyGenetx

Recommended for patients diagnosed with diabetes or that have a family history of diabetes.

MyGenetx tests are ordered only by a doctor or healthcare provider.

TALK TO YOUR PHYSICIAN TODAY!

Visit MyGenetx.com or call 844-MyHap22 (844-694-2722) for more information.

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How is the test administered?

The test is performed by swishing an oral rinse for several seconds, then releasing the solution into the tube provided. Your doctor or healthcare provider will then ship the tube to the lab for results.

How much does the test cost and will my insurance cover it?

MyGenetx offers the MyHap2 test at an affordable price. Please see your doctor or healthcare provider for details.

I don’t have diabetes...should I be tested as well? If your family has a history of diabetes or pre-diabetes, then you should consider taking this test. Your test results will help you understand if any parents, siblings, or children could also be at risk.

How do I get my results and who has access to them?

A short report will be generated that will include all recommendations based on your MyHap2 test results and reported to your doctor or healthcare provider.

5/10/17 12:16 PM 5/10/17 2:23 PM

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Lower Manhattan New York’s oldest neighborhood is new again.

The changes happening in Lower Manhattan right now are extraordinary. The transformation of the city’s oldest neighborhood is an urban phenomenon.

Everywhere you look, Lower Manhattan is bustling. Rising tourism paired with new hotels, a burgeoning tech and media cluster, an expanding transportation network, and a growing residential population are changing how people think of the area.

Lower Manhattan is the gateway to New York Harbor and the Statue of Liberty, and home to the 9/11 Memorial and Museum, the New York Stock Exchange, Federal Hall —where George Washington was sworn in as our first president—and a host of other must-see attractions and fascinating museums.

What’s new is that Lower Manhattan is fast becoming a paradise for food lovers and a Shangri-La for shoppers. A transformation that has been building for years has reached a pinnacle with the emergence of a

wide-ranging array of stores and eateries.

There are not only more places to shop downtown, but a greater range of options —including mom-and-pop shops, high-end stores, boutiques, and popular chains.

Westfield World Trade Center’s recent debut, which came on the heels of earlier openings at Brookfield Place, Fulton Center, a revitalized Seaport, scores of new stores on Broadway, and mainstays like famed discount retailer Century 21, makes Lower Manhattan your one-stop shopping destination.

And if you find yourself hungry while in the neighborhood, you are in luck. From burgers at Shake Shack and amazing specialty sandwiches at Pisillo to Mario Batali’s experiential food market Eataly and Wolfgang Puck’s CUT steakhouse, Lower Manhattan has must-try restaurants for every palate and budget.

Visit Lower Manhattan to see why everyone is saying, “Down is what’s up!” downtownny.com june 2017 southwest 91

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Tuck in A spirited drinking and dining den with a whimsical atmosphere created by Sherry Yard, The Tuck Room NYC is the home of Adam Seger’s Heizenberg infusion cocktails. Experience “Vinyl, Funk & Doughnuts” every Thursday at 7:30 p.m. with resident DJ J-Zone.

The Tuck Room is located on the second floor above iPic Theaters in the Fulton Market Building at Seaport District. thetuckroom.com

Sky High Stay in the heart of the city at the world’s tallest Holiday Inn. Stroll to Wall Street and One World Trade Center, plus popular shopping and dining options. hihotelmanhattan.com

In the center of it all

Stay Inspired in New York Enjoy a luxurious escape to Conrad New York with an array of nearby dining options and world-class shopping just steps away. The hotel boasts an impressive art collection and spacious suites along with the popular Loopy Doopy Rooftop Bar, offering the city’s most Instagrammable cocktail, the signature Prosecco and Ice Pop. conradnewyork.com

Step Inside History Travel back in time in NYC! Download TimeLooper’s virtual and augmented reality app to relive history as you tour the city’s iconic sites. Watch George Washington’s inauguration at Federal Hall, the construction of the Empire State Building, and more. Download TimeLooper through the iTunes app or Google Play store. timelooper.com 92 southwest june 2017

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Lower Manhattan New york Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island Tour

Enjoy an all-inclusive visit to this powerful symbol of freedom, plus access to the museum inside the pedestal and tours of Liberty Island and Ellis Island. 4.5 hours; $59 (ferry tickets included)

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Sightseers agree: The best way to explore New York City is just how the locals do it —by foot, subway, and ferry. Offering a variety of immersive experiences, New York Tour1 gives guests an authentic look at the Big Apple as guided groups follow efficient itineraries that include crowd-avoiding entry tickets and priority transportation passes.

Neighborhood tours showcase the distinctive charm and storied history of areas like Soho, Little Italy, and Chinatown. Visit the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island with special-access ferry tickets and museum entry, or opt for a one-day tour to discover more than 15 iconic destinations.

Licensed locals lead the way, offering fun and engaging storytelling to create a memorable experience. Ranked the #1 tour company in the city by TripAdvisor, New York Tour1 helps you to make the most of your visit.

One-Day New York City Tour From Times Square and Grand Central Terminal to St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Wall Street, see the city’s most notable features on this highly optimized itinerary.

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SEA MAGIC Experience art in a unique way at SeaGlass Carousel at The Battery. Kids and adults can ride massive fiberglass fish that glow, glide up and down, and rotate 360 degrees. Located in The Battery near the original site of the New York Aquarium, this magical addition to Lower Manhattan is not to be missed. seaglasscarousel.nyc

MARKET STROLL Hop on one of the daily tours of Wall Street, the 9/11 Memorial, and Lower Manhattan, and learn about the history of the area and and its roots in finance. wallstreetwalks.com

CITY SIGHTS

HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS NEW YORK CIT Y-WALL STREET

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See the world in Lower Manhattan—and stay in the center of it all, from the newly revitalized Holiday Inn and Holiday Inn Express on Wall Street, to the historic charm found at the Hampton Financial District, or experience the trendy and vibrant area of Tribeca at the Hilton Garden Inn. These hotels are blocks away from Little Italy, Chinatown, and the Financial District. Explore the history of Ellis Island, and snap skyline pictures from the top of the Statue of Liberty. www.HHMcitysights.com

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Lower Manhattan NEW YORK

EPHR AT ASHERIE, “RIFF THIS, RIFF THAT ” AT 180 MAIDEN L ANE, RIVER TO RIVER 2016.

ARTS ALIVE

Each summer, the River To River Festival makes New York’s rich arts scene even more accessible.

Now in its 16th year, the 2017 completely free festival will be held June 14-25, and will welcome audiences and artists to interact with dance, music, theater, opera, and the visual arts. Spectators can witness the creative process and are privy to all facets of the artists’ work. More than 100 performances and events will happen at 31 unique and surprising sites across Lower Manhattan and Governors Island.

Brought to you by the Lower Manhattan Cultural Council. rivertoriverNYC.com

SAYA WOOLFALK, “CHIMATEK: CHIMACLOUD CONTROL CENTER” AT FULTON CENTER, RIVER TO RIVER 2016.

RIVER TO RIVER FESTIVAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARIAL SNEED

NEW YORK LAW SCHOOL IN TRIBECA

For 125 years, New York Law School has been a landmark institution in Lower Manhattan, with a history of educating ambitious, civically minded lawyers who lead. The school’s ultramodern Tribeca campus is steps from courts, government offices, Wall Street firms, and the city’s booming tech corridor. Students can earn their J.D.s on a two-year honors program track, a traditional three-year track, or a part-time four-year track, and the school offers an award-winning LL.M. in taxation. Its robust clinical programs provide hands-on experience in today’s cutting-edge fields, including civil rights law, securities arbitration, immigration law, and patents and trademarks. nyls.edu june 2017 southwest 95

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Agenda

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/ ATLANTA Take A Bite Out of Summer JULY 16

You say Attack of the Killer Tomato Festival, I say Attack of the Killer To-mah-to Festival. Either way, call off your other plans and make room for this celebration of salad’s favorite fruit. More than 70 of the South’s best chefs and bartenders team up with more than 30 Georgian farmers to raise money for Georgia Organics, a nonprofit that aims to increase both the number of organic farms in the state and the number of Georgians who eat organic produce. (The fest raised more than $100,000 in 2016.) Dishes from last year included straightforward tomato sorbets and a complex, ingredient-heavy BLT gelato sandwich, made with spiced tomato jam honeysuckle cheesecake gelato. killertomatofest.com june 2017 southwest 97

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JUNE 24 KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI

Go Small

What started out seven years ago as a handful of beer-making friends in a backyard has grown into the KC Nanobrew Festival, Kansas City’s largest homebrew gathering. More than 200 beers are on tap, all made by area hobbyists. Admission includes unlimited tastings, and food trucks will be on hand for noshing. One beer to keep an eye on: SchuBrew’s bourbon barrel–aged quad with cherries.

David Schumacher, last year’s High Plains Brewer of the Year, created this 18-percent ABV whopper by freezing the base to remove excess water. Proceed with caution. kcna nobrews.com JULY 1-3 SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA

Do As the Islanders Do Drums will be pounded and hips will sway as the 25th annual Tahiti Fête of San Jose takes the stage.

Considered the largest Tahitian dance competition in the United States, the event draws dancers and spectators from around the world. Performers blend traditional and contemporary choreography with elaborate costumes, all celebrating the Polynesian people. Guests can also participate in dancing workshops conducted by the esteemed judges, sample Polynesian delicacies, and explore artisans’ crafts. tahitifete.com AUGUST 18-19 PULLMAN, WASHINGTON

Lego My Legume

The Palouse, a stretch of fertile land across eastern Washington and northern Idaho, is perfect not only for growing wheat but also lentils. Those little legumes are honored each year at the National Lentil Festival, where they’re baked, stir-fried, stewed, chilidogged, and crammed into every kind of dish you can imagine. (The triple-chocolate oatmeal lentil

cookies are particularly delectable.) On Friday night, set your sights on the 350-gallon stainless steel bowl, the world’s largest bowl of lentil chili. lentilfest.com AUGUST 19 BELLAIRE, MICHIGAN

Release the Quackin’ In mid-August, as children start worrying about the first day of school, Michigan’s annual duck migration starts as well. There’s usually around 2,000 of the bright yellow mallards. Their migration begins on the Intermediate River and ends, well, just a quarter-mile farther down the river. Welcome to the Rubber Ducky Festival. Attendees of the 30th annual event can buy a duck for $5 and root for it as it makes the 15-minute journey down the tiny river. Cash prizes are awarded for the first 27 to cross the line, with the winner taking home 500 quackers, er, smackers. bellairechamber.com/ rubber-ducky-festival-55

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This advertisement is not an offering; an offering can only be made by a prospectus filed with the referenced state, which filing does not constitute approval.

Our services are 100% free to you. We are compensated by franchisors for our services. This incurs no additional charge to you.

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TMM - WESTJET AD - 1/16/2016 Trim: 2.25” W x 9.75” H

Tale Ends

BY DO U G PE TE RSO N 1

2

3

4

5

14

27

28

29

33

30

38

42

46

Steps from Fremont Street Downtown Las Vegas

32

58

59

40

44

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54

51

55

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63

64

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68

Answers on page 105 Across

1 Trucker’s rig 5 Anticipates 11 Pop’s partner 14 Line on a graph 15 Dreary 16 “I ___ you one!”

17 Home’s upstairs 19 “About the author”

blurb

themobmuseum.org

39

43

53

31

35

37

41

13

26

34

36

12

22

25

Easy Crossword

A provocative, contemporary look at the continuing battle between the Mob and the law through high-tech theater presentations, over 2,000 one-of-a-kind artifacts and interactive exhibits.

11

19

49

RANKED #19 MUSEUM IN THE U.S.

BY TRIPADVISOR

10

16

24

45

Critically acclaimed.

Unflinchingly unique.

Globally respected.

9

21

23

52

8

18

20

TO EVERY STORY.

7

15

17

THERE ARE TWO SIDES

6

20 A toupee covers it 21 Moves like a bunny 22 Scenic overlook

feature

23 United ___ Emirates 25 Sketchbook stand 27 Use the sofa 29 Singer with the 2013

hit “All of Me” 33 University of Notre ___ 34 At least one 35 Joyous shout 36 Swiss skyline sight 37 Morgan of Million Dollar Baby 40 Frequently, in verse 41 Run-of-the-mill 43 Palindromic nickname 44 Don of talk radio 45 Plaything for a kitten

62

48 Royal flush card 49 Old photo tint 50 Pet food brand with

paw print logo 52 Show off a muscle 54 “Hollaback Girl” singer Stefani 56 Charge to appear in a magazine 60 Messy barbecue serving 61 Deposit destination 63 Ostrich lookalike 64 American Kennel Club divisions 65 Brightly colored 66 Slinky, for one 67 Undergarment with laces 68 Animated “Let It Go” singer

Down

1 Back talk 2 Boardroom bigwig,

briefly Flaky mineral Keep apart Stir in It’s snapped on Thanksgiving 7 On the topic of 8 “Throw the football to me!”

9 Ankle-related 10 Crafty 11 Trailer 12 Scraped knee, to a toddler

3 4 5 6

13 Speak Persian?

18 All Things

Considered airer

22 Old Chevy model 24 Not shut tight 26 In stitches 27 Quesadilla go-with 28 Checkout line

purchase, perhaps

30 “Laughing”

carnivore

31 Like party poopers 32 Parts of web

addresses

33 Paint carelessly 37 Complete failure 38 Tenderizing sauce

for meat

39 ___ Karenina

(Tolstoy novel)

42 Answer man Trebek 44 “All finished!”

46 Mozart’s The

Marriage of ___

47 Snoozefest 51 Apple product 52 Guitar ridge 53 Vehicle at a movie

premiere

55 Barely makes,

with “out”

57 Natural gas, e.g.

58 Grandson of Adam

and Eve

59 Sicilian volcano 61 Doctor Who

network

62 Clock setting in

Minn.

300 Stewart Ave | 702.229.2734

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Fun!

Cuffer Stories

BY DOUG PETERSON 1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

28

30

38

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43

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41

45

49

48

13

26

34

37

12

23

25

29

33

11

22

24

27

10

36

42

46

50

47

51

10 “If you ask me,” 52

54

55

62

online

53

56

63

57

11 Java lightener

58

59

64

65

66

67

68

69

70

71

60

61

introduced in 1961

12 Niagara Falls feeder 13 Baseball’s strikeout

king

21 Diamonds, for

example

22 Idyllic meadow 26 Bit of gossip 27 Political humorist

Mort

28 Big name in moving 29 “Octopus’s Garden”

Hard Crossword Answers on page 105

Across

1 Show petulance 5 Bison feature 9 Chef, at times 14 Kick off 15 Berry used in

smoothies 16 Peach State university 17 Take down 18 ___ Bar (organic food brand) 19 Ed’s Modern Family co-star 20 Dance performed on skis?

23 Marshy area 24 Aye, in Versailles 25 Hard to explain, perhaps

27 Beach Boys

record, e.g.?

33 Tuna at a sushi bar 34 Sign of melancholy 35 They precede finals 37 Ranch employee 39 Rotisserie rods 42 Arrived in time for 43 Took an icy ride 45 Farm youngster 47 ___ Aviv 48 Getting a foam

football stuck in a tree, say?

52 The Lion King protagonist 53 City on Guanabara Bay 54 ___ blanket 56 Last word from Oliver Twist?

62 Gaming trailblazer 64 Mountain road abbr.

65 Type of testimony 66 Swagger 67 Lug around 68 Like certain mattresses

69 Has a bad effect on 70 Number on a nickel 71 Some badge

flashers

Down

1 The Brady Bunch 2

3

4 5 6 7 8 9

threesome Second word of “The Raven” Jared who played the Joker Was acquainted with Cyborgs, in part Anti-censorship org.

Unsophisticated person French engineer Gustave Leaves high and dry

songwriter

30 Generation

separator

31 Steep 32 Easy ___ 36 Portrait subject 38 Half of a classic TV duo 40 As well 41 Hurriedly mumble 44 Chowderheads 46 Lady Antebellum, for one 49 Gp. with Wizards and Warriors 50 High spirits 51 React to a dull

lecture

54 Hamper filler 55 James or Jones of

jazz

57 Arctic Ocean

obstacle

58 “___ life!”

59 Aged spread 60 Stick figure?

61 Suburban street

liners

63 Cuba Libre

ingredient

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How-To / Fill in the blank squares so that the numbers 1 to 9 appear once in every row, column, and 3-by-3 box. There is only one solution per puzzle. Answers on page 106

Sudoku

BY GARETH MOORE

Warm-Up

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Easy 1

Easy 2

5/2/17 1:11 PM

Fun! For more brain-training games from Gareth Moore, visit brainedup.com.

More Sudoku

Medium 1

Medium 2

631857492 452139876 978246513 293714658 715368924 846592731 527683149 369471285 184925367

“

I was looking for a financial investment that could provide ongoing income to sustain our family for the long haul.

”

Franchisees David and Shannon Willis

Hard

631857492 452139876 978246513 293714658 715368924 846592731 527683149 369471285 184925367

Investing in the future While working in corporate America, David Willis witnessed the uncertainty that comes with being an employee instead of an owner, particularly in the banking segment. He says “I was looking for a financial investment that could provide ongoing income to sustain our family for the long haul.” As a result, David chose to purchase real estate and build an all-new location with support from Kiddie Academy’s Real Estate and Construction teams.

With prior business experience working for brands such as GE and Bank of America, David did a great deal of research before deciding to open his Kiddie Academy of Charlotte – Blakeney in August, 2011. He knew the market, believed in the Kiddie Academy concept, and most importantly, understood what children and parents need from a childcare center. His customer-centric approach has distinguished his Kiddie Academy in the market.

For David Willis, building a new Kiddie Academy location helped him to reach both a personal and professional goal.

“Finding childcare for my two children certainly spurred me to consider opening my own business. My wife and I couldn’t find the educational experience we wanted for our own children, so we saw opening our Kiddie Academy as an investment in our children’s future as well as a business venture.”

Over the last several years David and his academy have won several awards, including Community Leadership, Sales and Customer Service, Best Practices: Character Education, Developmentally Appropriate Curriculum, Health and Fitness and Technology Education.

Learn about Kiddie Academy at www.FranchiseKA.com or by calling 410-777-5352.

WITH K ID D IE A C A D E MY, Y O U D O N ’T H AV E TO C O MP R O MIS E.

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ng ’t

w

l

Wanna shake the tremors?

Crossword Help

Deep brain stimulation has helped more than 100,000 patients take back their lives.

Stuck? Try these tips, and tweet us yours @SouthwestTheMag #mycrosswordtips.

Deep brain stimulation (DBS) is a minimally invasive procedure that has been proven effective for disorders such as Parkinson’s disease, essential tremor, dystonia, and obsessive-compulsive disorder.

Start at the top Try answering the opening “Across” clues first; they’ll give you the first letter of many down clues, making those easier to answer.

Littleton Adventist Hospital is pioneering health, performing the first robotically assisted, asleep DBS procedure in the United States.

Fill in the blanks The clues that include “___” tend to be easier, so tackle those early on.

Actual patient drawing sample

Tense matters If the clue is in the past tense, for instance, the answer will be, too.

Be aware of abbreviations If the clue is abbreviated, so will the answer.

Answers Tale Ends S A S S E R D A U B Y F R E T

E X E C R S A L S A A L I M O

M I C A E I M P U L S E B U Y

I A W A S D I S O N D S T L P H O A R A B T J O H E A N Y F R E E A L N L O F Y A E P I A X G W E B A N K B R E E C O R S

I M O P E N M A R I N A D E

T A R S A L

S L Y

V S E E G W A A N N I N T A M S A D C C O S N T E

M O B I L E H O M E

O M W E I O E W N O F U N

D O T S

F U E L

E N O S

E T N A

C O F F E E M A T E

E R I E

R Y A N

R I D E R

S E L F

B R I E

Y A R D

E L M S

Cuffer Stories S O N S E S A H L

U P O N R U H A U L

W A S H

E T T A

L E T O E R I N G O S T A R R

K M A N A C E C L W S H U O U I F I N G T E A D S P E D S I N G I M B A W A I R I E U T T M S Y

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N A I F

E D I I E M F S O F L E E E R I P L A T T R S E I T S M C O L T Y O U R N R I O F G O O D L E V O O T E F E A R F

Drawing Sample BEFORE treatment

Drawing Sample AFTER treatment

Learn more about DBS and find out if it is right for you. Call 844-322-4799 or visit mylittletonhospital.org/DBS

Littleton Adventist Hospital Littleton, CO, USA Centura Health does not discriminate against any person on the basis of race, color, national origin, disability, age, sex, religion, creed, ancestry, sexual orientation, and marital status in admission, treatment, or participation in its programs, services and activities, or in employment.

For further information about this policy contact Centura Health’s Office of the General Counsel at 1-303-269-4188 (TTY: 711). Copyright © Centura Health, 2017. ATENCIÓN: Si habla español, tiene a su disposición servicios gratuitos de asistencia lingüística. Llame al 1-303-269-4188 (TTY: 711). CHÚ Ý: Nếu bạn nói Tiếng Việt, có các dịch vụ hỗ trợ ngôn ngữ miễn phí dành cho bạn. Gọi số 1-303-269-4188 (TTY: 711).

5/4/17 8:59 AM

SINCE

1999

HIGH QUALITY CHINA/ASIA CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

Answers Warm-Up

e-bi Star Factory Alliance, with over 435 proven specialty contract manufacturing partners, provides complete engineering and contract manufacturing solutions to our clients. From entry-level assemblies to the most challenging engineering jobs, e-bi specialty teams have executed over 5,200 projects with over 230 million high quality products built and delivered worldwide in the last 16 years.

Contract manufacturing solutions services include: • Design and Engineering Development • On-Site Quality and Manufacturing Process Control • 24/7 On-Line Data Status Report • Product Testing and Metrology • World Wide Delivery Logistics Services • USA Quality Satisfactory Warranty • $2 Million Product Liability Insurance

Products include houseware and homeware, consumer products, medical devices, auto, capital equipment, and accessories. Process categories include: • Electronics Assembly • Casting and Tooling • Molds and Injection Molding • Metal Formation Products • Packaging • Cut and Sew Softgoods

ISO9001:2008 ISO14001 OHSAS18001 SA8000 Certified Portland Shenzhen Shanghai/Ningbo Beijing Singapore Sydney

Easy 1

Easy 2

Please call us 503-644-2290, visit us at www.e-bi.net, or email us: info@e-bi.com 15244 NW Greenbrier Parkway, Beaverton, OR 97006

Medium 1

Medium 2

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Hard

631857492 452139876 978246513 293714658 715368924 846592731 527683149 369471285 184925367

Does Your Hand Shake When You… Drink a glass of water? Write a note? Dial a phone number?

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DRAWING SAMPLE BEFORE TREATMENT

DRAWING SAMPLE AFTER TREATMENT

Learn more about essential tremor and find out if Gamma Knife treatment is right for you.

1-206-320-7187 Swedish.org/essentialtremor Seattle, Washington, USA

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OFFICIAL RULES: No purchase necessary. A purchase does not increase your chances of winning. To enter, complete an official entry form on www.facebook.com/southwestmagazine or www.southwestmag.com/sweepstakes. Entries will be accepted starting June 1, 2017 and must be received no later than midnight CDT, June 30, 2017. Sweepstakes is open to all legal U.S. residents who are 21 years and older. Employees of Pace Communications, Inc. “Sponsor”, Southwest Airlines, all sweepstakes sponsors and their immediate families are not eligible. One winner will be selected in a random drawing by Pace Communications, 1301 Carolina Street, Greensboro, NC 27401, on or about July 15, 2017. Only one (1) entry per individual is allowed. Duplicate entries will be removed. Odds of winning are dependent upon number of entries received. For a list of winners, send self-addressed, stamped envelope to SOUTHWEST: THE MAGAZINE SWEEPS, Pace Communications, 1301 Carolina Street, Greensboro, NC 27401. The winner will be notified by email or telephone. If the winner does not agree with the rules of the sweepstakes, or does not meet the requirements to be eligible to enter this sweepstakes, winner will be excluded as a possible prize winner. Winner must respond to notification and both winner and any included guests must sign an Affidavit of Eligibility within 10 days or an alternative winner will be selected at random. Federal, state and local taxes are the responsibility of the winner. Void where prohibited by law, and all federal, state and local laws apply. The winner will receive a 1099 IRS tax form. The prize consists of a two (2)-night stay at Hyatt Regency New Orleans ($1,000), two (2) tickets to Voodoo Music + Arts Experience ($400), one (1) Southwest Airlines gift card ($500), round-trip car service to airport ($100) and has a promotional value of $2,000. Prizes are non-refundable, non-transferable, are not redeemable in cash, and may not be substituted by the winner. Restrictions may apply. See Official Rules at southwestmag.com/sweepstakes for full details and restrictions.

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The Guide GET IN THIS SCENE

Ft. Lauderdale

1 At Southwestvacations.com®, book

your flight + hotel package to Ft. Lauderdale (FLL). 2 Add excursions and activities, like an airboat adventure through the Everglades. DID YOU KNOW? Southwest’s international terminal is scheduled to open at FLL on June 4, giving Customers access to eight international and 29 domestic nonstop destinations.

IN THIS ISSUE / 112 Travel Tips / 114 Inflight Entertainment / 115 Bevera-

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT HOLLAND

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JUNE 2017 SOUTHWEST

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Travel Tips

Fly Like a Pro

Check out these reminders to enjoy a stress-free travel experience.

FURRY FRIENDS

If you’re traveling with a pet, you can’t sit in an exit row seat. Pet carriers must fit under the seat in front of you.

SMOKE-FREE E-cigarettes are not allowed in the cabin.

We’re continuing to add new, spacious seats across our fleet of 737s. Getting there just got more comfortable.

SNACK PACK

We serve complimentary snacks, but feel free to bring your own food onboard— you just can’t bring your own alcohol.

Permitted Pueden usarse dentro del avión Small portable electronic devices (PEDs) such as tablets, e-readers, and smartphones weighing less than 2 pounds may be used in AIRPLANE mode at all times on domestic flights, unless a Crew Member indicates otherwise. A small PED may be held in hand, attached to a person, or placed in clothing or a seatback pocket. Devices and accessories may not block access to the aisle.

Large PEDs such as laptops weighing 2 pounds or more must be stowed under the seat or in an overhead bin for taxi, takeoff, and landing. It is recommended that laptops be placed in a case when stowed under the seat. On international flights, all PEDs must be turned off during taxi, takeoff, and landing at airports outside the U.S. and its territories. Please use headphones for all audio and video.

Siempre puedes usar dispositivos electrónicos portátiles y pequeños (PEDs) tales como tabletas, lectores electrónicos y teléfonos inteligentes que pesen menos de 2 libras en modo AVIÓN en

los vuelos domésticos, excepto si un Miembro de la Tripulación indica lo contrario. Puedes tener un PED pequeño en la mano, llevarlo encima, en la ropa o en un bolsillo en el respaldo del asiento.

Los dispositivos y accesorios no pueden bloquear el acceso al pasillo. Los PEDs grandes como computadoras portátiles que pesen 2 libras o más deben de ser guardados debajo del asiento o en los compartimentos superiores mientras el avión avanza por la pista, durante el despegue y el aterrizaje. Se recomienda que las computadoras portátiles se guarden en un estuche debajo del asiento. En los vuelos internacionales, todos los PEDs deben permanecer apagados mientras el avión avanza por la pista, durante el despegue y el aterrizaje en aeropuertos fuera de los EE. UU. y sus territorios. Por favor usa auriculares para cualquier sonido o video.

Smartphones (in AIRPLANE mode) Teléfonos inteligentes (en modo AVIÓN) Tablets or E-readers (in AIRPLANE mode) Tabletas o lectores electrónicos (en modo AVIÓN) Laptop Computers Computadoras portátiles Audio Players Aparatos de audio DVD/CD Players Reproductores de DVD/CD

Digital Cameras Cámaras digitales GPS Receivers GPS Hand-Held Electronic Games Juegos electrónicos portátiles Satellite Radio Radio por satélite Video Camcorders Videocámaras Bluetooth Devices Dispositivos Bluetooth

Sometimes Permitted

Pueden usarse en ocasiones dentro del avión We understand you may want to document your travel on Southwest Airlines. Want to photograph and/or record Southwest Airlines Customers or Employees? Let them know first! The use of cameras and mobile devices is permitted onboard to capture personal events but can never interfere with the safety of a flight and should always respect others’ privacy. Entendemos que es posible que desees documentar tu viaje en Southwest Airlines. ¿Quieres fotografiar y / o grabar Clientes o Empleados de Southwest Airlines? ¡Hazles saber primero! El uso de cámaras y dispositivos móviles se permite a bordo para capturar eventos personales, pero nunca debe interferir con la seguridad de un vuelo y siempre debe respetar la privacidad de los demás.

112 SOUTHWEST JUNE 2017

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For your next trip, try EarlyBird Check-in® ($15 one way*). We’ll automatically check you in and reserve your boarding position 36 hours before your flight. That’s a full 12 hours earlier than our traditional 24-hour check-in.

On a Business Trip?

BEFORE YOU GET UP, REMEMBER ...

Although you can form lines at the back lavatory, you cannot form lines at the front lavatory or gather in the front galley.

SAY, “CHEESE!”

Please be respectful of Employees and Customers when capturing photos or videos onboard.

TAKE YOUR PICK With Business Select®, you can be one of the first to board with priority boarding. Pick the seat you want and have room for your carryon bags. Southwest.com/ businessselect CHEERS! If you’re a Business Select® Customer, your first drink is on us.** WORK PERKS Business Select® Passengers can bypass long lines by taking advantage of our Fly By® priority check-in and security lanes (where available).

* Price is subject to change. ** Business Select® Customers receive a free premium drink on the day of travel.

Always Permitted Pueden usarse en todo momento dentro del avión

Never Permitted Nunca pueden

Electronic nerve stimulators and other implanted medical devices are also permitted. Dispositivos de estimulación electrónica de los nervios y otros aparatos médicos

Devices capable of transmitting data, unless otherwise noted, are never permitted. Nunca son permitidos los dispositivos con capacidad para transmitir datos, excepto que se especifique lo contrario.

Two-Way Radios (WalkieTalkies) or Scanners Radios emisores/receptores (walkie-talkies)

PETS

anyone under the age of 21. We reserve the right to refuse the sale of alcoholic beverages to anyone. Se prohíbe que los Clientes consuman bebidas alcohólicas si no fueron compradas a bordo. No serviremos bebidas alcohólicas a las personas menores de 21 años de edad. Nos reservamos el derecho de negar la venta de bebidas alcohólicas a cualquier persona.

CREW INTERFERENCE

Federal law prohibits any Passenger from assaulting, threatening, or intimidating a Crew Member or interfering with a Crew Member’s duties. La ley federal prohíbe que los pasajeros ataquen, amenacen o intimiden a los Miembros de la Tripulación o que interfieran con los deberes de un Miembro de la Tripulación.

implantados también son permitidos.

Electronic Watches Relojes electrónicos

Pacemakers Marcapasos

Noise-Canceling Headphones Auriculares que aislan el ruido

Hearing Aids Aparatos para sordos Electric Shavers Rastrillo eléctrico DISABILITY ASSISTANCE

Southwest Airlines offers assistance to Customers with disabilities upon request. Southwest Airlines siempre ofrece asistencia para sus Clientes con discapacidades que así lo soliciten.

ELECTRONIC DEVICES

Cellphones and pagers may be used at the gate and after landing. Los teléfonos y localizadores pueden ser usados en la puerta y después de aterrizar.

CARRYON BAGGAGE

Customers are limited to one (1) bag per person, plus one (1) additional personal item. El límite es de una (1) maleta por persona y un (1) artículo personal.

LOST AN ITEM ONBOARD A FLIGHT?

Visit the Customer Service page on Southwest. com to report a lost item.

Visita la página de Servicio al Cliente en Southwest.com para reportar un objeto perdido.

usarse dentro del avión

All pets must stay inside their carriers and under the seat for the duration of the flight. Todas las mascotas deben permanecer dentro de sus jaulas y debajo del asiento durante todo el vuelo.

ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES

Customers are prohibited from consuming alcoholic beverages not purchased onboard.

Alcoholic beverages will not be served to

Electronic Cigarettes and Smoking Devices Cigarrillos electrónicos y dispositivos para fumar

Television or AM/FM Radio Receivers Televisión o radios de AM/FM Remote-Controlled Toys Juguetes de control remoto Samsung Galaxy Note 7 Smartphone PERSONAL DEVICES

Unapproved personal devices (e.g., Knee Defender, infant slings) may not be attached to any part of the aircraft.

Dispositivos personales no aprobados (coo por ejemplo “defensores de rodillas” o mantas portabebés) no pueden sujetarse a ninguna parte de la aeronave.

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Inflight Entertainment

Getting Connected

Our entertainment portal is filled with exciting inflight options— from live TV to exclusive content—for you to enjoy.

Love Discovery Channel’s Shark Week? Get an exclusive look at “African Shark Safari” before it airs by watching it on our Shark Week on-demand channel.

HOW TO CONNECT: SOUTHWESTWIFI.COM*

Handheld Devices

Tap the Settings icon, and then choose the WiFi icon. Turn WiFi On with On/Off button.

Tap SouthwestWiFi in the list of WiFi networks and confirm connection. Open your internet browser.

Our entertainment portal should load automatically. If not, click the address bar and type in Southwestwifi.com.

Select your entertainment option and enjoy.

Laptops

Click the WiFi icon.

Select SouthwestWiFi from the list of WiFi networks by clicking on it and confirm connection. Open your internet browser.

Our entertainment portal should load automatically. If not, click the address bar and type in Southwestwifi.com.

Select your entertainment option and enjoy.

* WiFi available only on WiFi-equipped aircraft.

MORE INFORMATION:

• Content and services are offered on WiFi-enabled aircraft only. We cannot guarantee that connecting flights will be WiFi-enabled.

• Service on flights to/from destinations outside the contiguous

U.S. may not currently be available for the entire flight.

• Movies and select TV content require download of the free AirTime Player app.

• Pricing information can be found on the Inflight

Entertainment Portal.

• In order to provide top-notch web browsing capabilities to all Customers using WiFi, we limit access to the following online activities due to high bandwidth consumption: telephony

applications (VoIP), device/ system/software updates, and certain video/audio streaming subscription services, applications, and web sites.

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Beverages

THIS ONE’S ON US Business Select® Customers receive a free premium drink on the day of travel.

Wild Turkey and Ginger Ale SOUTHWEST AIRLINES IS turning 46 this month, and we

know just how to celebrate—by ordering Wild Turkey.

Distilled in Lawrenceburg, Kentucky, the bourbon just happens to be Southwest Co-founder Herb Kelleher’s favorite drink. Add in some refreshing Seagram’s ginger ale and you’ve got it made in the skies. Cheers!

COMPLIMENTARY BEVERAGES

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

Coca-Cola® Coke Zero™ Diet Coke® Sprite® Sprite Zero™ Dr Pepper® Diet Dr Pepper® Seagram’s® Ginger Ale Seagram’s® Tonic Water Seagram’s® Seltzer Water Mr & Mrs T® Bloody Mary Mix Mr & Mrs T® Margarita Mix Tomato Juice

• Minute Maid® Cranberry Apple Cocktail • Minute Maid® Orange Juice • Minute Maid® Apple Juice • Community® coffee* • Community® decaf instant coffee* • Community® tea • Hot Chocolate • Noncarbonated Purified Drinking Water

* Regular and hazelnut creamer available

LIQUOR $5

• • • • •

Dewar’s® Scotch Jack Daniel’s® Wild Turkey® Tanqueray® Gin Bacardi® Rum

BEER $5

• Bud Light® • Miller Lite® • Dos Equis® Special Lager • Leinenkugel’s® Summer Shandy® • Fat Tire®

• Baileys® Irish Cream • Finlandia® Vodka • Sauza® Gold Tequila WINE $5

• Carmenet Cabernet Sauvignon • St Roc Sparkling Wine • Whistling Thorn Chenin BlancChardonnay

You must be 21 years or older to drink alcoholic beverages. According to the U.S. Surgeon General, women who are pregnant or who may become pregnant should not drink alcoholic beverages because of the risk of birth defects. Images of the alcoholic beverage product do not reflect how it is actually served. Customer will not receive a beverage with a cap. In accordance with FAA regulations, Customers are prohibited from consuming alcoholic beverages onboard that are not served by Southwest Airlines.

Valid Southwest Airlines Rapid Rewards® drink coupons, as shown here, are printed with expiration dates and the Member’s (or issuing group’s) name. Business Select® drink coupons are valid for same-day use only. Valid Rapid Rewards and Business Select drink coupons will be accepted onboard for beer, wine, and liquor.

Expires Dec 31, 2017

RECYCLING

We’re happy to take care of any recyclable items, including plastic bottles, coffee cups, newspapers, and food containers.

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Music

Introducing Southwest Airlines Music at Southwest.fm

ARTIST ON THE RISE

Devon Gilfillian On Saturday mornings growing up, Devon Gilfillian could expect two things from his dad. “I’d wake up and he’d be making some pancakes and blasting Stevie Wonder,” he said. Devon’s father, a wedding singer, inspired his interest in

gospel, soul, and blues, but his mom was also a strong influence. “Home,” a song off his debut EP, is—as he puts it—about “missing Mama.” We caught up with him at Luck Reunion, where he dedicated the song to her in person—she flew from Philadelphia to see him perform. Watch clips and the interview at Southwest.fm.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ASHLEE DUNCAN (DEVON GILFILLIAN, DRAKE WHITE, AND VALERIE JUNE) AND PATRICK EDMISTON (WALKING ON CARS AND BLUE OCTOBER)

Southwest is creating the soundtrack to your life’s journey.

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LIVE AT 35

▶

At Southwest.fm, watch video of our ongoing series featuring performances onboard flights at 35,000 feet.

Clockwise from top left: country singer Drake White, singer-songwriter Valerie June, alt-rock band Blue October, and Irish band Walking On Cars

▶ WANT MORE CONTENT? Check

out performances, learn about upcoming events, and go behind the scenes at Southwest.fm.

GET LIT – WORDS IGNITE

Meet the Get Lit Players. Southwest flew this youth poetry troupe to see Hamilton in NYC and meet then-cast member Daveed Diggs, who was a Get Lit mentor himself.

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Rapid Rewards

Earn 60,000 Points

Ready for your next trip? This limited time offer can help you get there faster. With the Rapid Rewards® Credit Card, you’ll earn 60,000 points after you spend $2,000 on purchases in the first three months of opening your account.

Visit Southwest.com/applytoday. Offer expires June 29, 2017.

Accounts subject to credit approval. Restrictions and limitations apply. Southwest Rapid Rewards® Credit Cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. Offer subject to change. See Southwest.com/applytoday for pricing and rewards details. All Southwest Rapid Rewards® rules and regulations apply; please visit Southwest.com/rrterms.

A-LIST TIER BENEFITS

• 25 percent pointearning bonus • Fly By® priority check-in and security lane access (where available) • Priority boarding to help you get on the plane faster Southwest.com/ ALstatus

A-LIST PREFERRED TIER BENEFITS

• All the perks of being an A-Lister • Free inflight WiFi (where available) • 100 percent point-earning bonus Southwest.com/ ALPstatus

Enroll now! It’s free and easy to join Rapid Rewards. Sign up now at Southwest. com/enroll.

COMPANION PASS

Every time you purchase a flight or redeem points for a flight, Companion Pass lets you choose one person to fly free* with you for an entire calendar year. Southwest.com/ CPstatus * Does not include taxes and fees from $5.60 oneway. Visit Southwest. com/rrterms for a complete list of Companion Pass rules.

Hotels

Paint the town red, then turn in at your favorite hotel and earn up to 10,000 Rapid Rewards® points per night.† Book now at Southwesthotels.com in partnership with Booking.com.

Earn from 1,000 to 10,000 points per night for every hotel stay booked through Rocketmiles. Visit rocketmiles.com/southwest to book now.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAXIAO PRODUCTIONS/STOCKSY UNITED

Rapid Rewards Tiers and Companion Pass

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Earn 2 points per $1 spent on Southwest® and Rapid Rewards® partner purchases.

On all other purchases, you’ll earn 1 point per $1 spent.

Rental Cars

Speed up the earning with your next car rental.

Earn 600 points per qualifying rental.† Visit Southwest.com/car-rentals to book now.

† Hotels and Rental Cars: Potential to earn additional

Redeem your points for flights, hotel stays, rental cars, access to exclusive events, and more.

Earn bonus points on your Cardmember anniversary. (We’ll never forget the date.)

Shop, Dine, and More

From haute couture to haute cuisine, you can earn hundreds of Rapid Rewards points with every dollar you spend.

Earn 3 points per $1 spent. Join Rapid Rewards Dining® for free today at rapidrewardsdining.com.

Rapid Rewards Members can earn 1,000 points on an order of $29.99 or more.

Visit 1800flowers.com/rapidrewards.

Earn Rapid Rewards points for shopping at hundreds of your favorite online retailers. Visit rrshopping.southwest. com to learn more.

Earn 2,000 Rapid Rewards bonus points when you join the 4 Seasons wine club—plus 3 complimentary bottles.

Learn more at laithwaiteswine.com/ southwest.

Make your points go further.

Close to a reward flight but need a few more points? You can buy points for yourself, give them as a gift, or transfer points from your Rapid Rewards account to another Member—all from one location.

Visit Southwest. com/pointscenter to get started.

points depending on applicable promotion. All Rapid Rewards rules and regulations apply and can be found at Southwest.com/rrterms. ©2017 Southwest Airlines Co.

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Go International SHOP SECRETS Visit more than 40 vendors at the Camana Bay Farmers & Artisans Market, held Wednesdays from 12–7 p.m.

and service to its newest locale—Grand Cayman— starts June 4. Go ahead: Enjoy the island life.

1

CAMANA BAY This bustling mixed-use development offers a variety of shopping, dining, and entertainment options.

Don’t forget to check the calendar—the summer schedule is packed with outdoor movies, story time for kids, and culinary tours that showcase local ingredients.

Boarding, Customs, and Immigration 1

This Space For Offical Use Only

2. Free of duty imports: passengers entering the country by sea or by air may import goods of duty, additional to their personal baggage, as long as they prove their value with an invoice or receipt and such amount does not exceed 300 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency or 75 US dollars when the entry is by land.

Alcoholic beverages, shredded tobacco or automobile fuel cannot be imported as part of the duty free exemption.

Customs Declaration

FORM APPROVED OMB NO. 1651-0009

19 CFR 122.27, 148.12, 148.13, 148.110,148.111, 1498; 31 CFR 5316

During the vacation periods of Holy week, summer and winter, Mexican Nationals entering the country by land may import, under duty exemption, items of up to 300 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency provided that such people do not live along the border strip or border region. The starting and ending dates of such periods can be consulted directly with customs personnel or at www. aduanas.gob.mx.

Each arriving traveler or responsible family member must provide the following information (only ONE written declaration per family is required). The term “family” is defined as “members of a family residing in the same household who are related by blood, marriage, domestic relationship, or adoption.”

1 Family Name

First (Given) 2 Birth date

Middle Month

Day

Year

3 Number of Family members traveling with you 4 (a) U.S. Street Address (hotel name/destination

(b) City

6 Passport number 7 Country of Residence

trip prior to U.S. arrival

11 I am (We are) bringing

(a) fruits, vegetables, plants, seeds, food, insects: (b) meats, animals, animal/wildlife products: (c) disease agents, cell cultures, snails: (d) soil or have been on a farm/ranch/pasture: 12 I have (We have) been in close proximity of livestock:

Yes

No

Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

No No No No No

Yes

No

(such as touching or handling)

13 I am (We are) carrying currency or monetary instruments

over $10,000 U.S. or foreign equivalent:

(see definition of monetary instruments on reverse)

14 I have (We have) commercial merchandise:

Yes

No

(articles for sale, samples used for soliciting orders, or goods that are not considered personal effects)

15 RESIDENTS—the total value of all goods, including commercial merchandise

I/we have purchased or acquired abroad, (including gifts for someone else, but not items mailed to the U.S.) and am/are bringing to the U.S. is: $ VISITORS—the total value of all articles that will remain in the U.S., including commercial merchandise is: $

Read the instructions on the back of this form. Space is provided to list all the items you must declare.

Signature

1 Last name(s) Nationality

Mexican laws establish among others the following penalties and sanctions related to the importation of goods into the country: • Omission to declare whether coming in or out of the Mexico´s customs amounts of cash, in domestic or foreign checks, payment orders or any other documents receivable in an aggregate amount exceeding the equivalent of 10,000 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency, which action will be punishable with a fine of 20 to 40% of the exceeding amount and the corresponding criminal penalties will be applied.

• Introduction into or extraction of goods from Mexico, using deceitful methods to hide items, when their imports or exports is prohibited, restricted or because foreign trade duties must be paid, will be punishable with fines ranging, to 70 or 100%, of the commercial value of merchandise.

• Omission of the total or partial payment of foreign trade duties. When failure consist of only a duty omission and the goods do not exceed 3,000 US dollars or its equivalent In domestic or foreign currency, the penalty will consist of up to 116% of the commercial value of the items. Once the duties have been paid, the Customs Authority will make the items available to the passenger.

• If the corresponding documentation required by the Customs Law prove that the merchandise was properly submitted for proper customs procedures in order to enter the country, is not exhibited, a precautionary seizure of the non declared goods as well as the corresponding vehicle, in case the passengers entered the country by land, will proceed.

• For non declared items which do not comply with regulations and restrictions other than duties, abandonment can be declared once the corresponding fine is paid.

Issue on 2013. Please look up for changes in this information when you are visiting us again at customs desk or at www.aduanas.gob.mx Date (month/day/year)

Welcome to Mexico

Name(s)

I HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE REVERSE SIDE OF THIS FORM AND HAVE MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.



for passengers coming from abroad

Passengers may import items to their personal baggage without requiring the services of a customs agent by paying a global rate of 16%, provided that the total amount, excluding the duty free exemption, does not exceed 3,000 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency as long as an invoice, proof of payment or any other document that proves the commercial value of the items is provided.

INFRACTIONS AND SANCTIONS

9 Airline/Flight No. or Vessel Name 10 The primary purpose of this trip is business:

CBP Form 6059B (04/14)

sat.gob.mx

aduanas.gob.mx

3

Customs Declaration

Please read the instructions prior to filling this form: Every passenger or head of household must provide the following information.

PAYMENT OF DUTIES

• Duties can be paid using the form “Pago de contribuciones al comercio exterior” (Foreign trade tax payment).

• The total value of computer equipment, added to the rest of the items above cannot exceed 4,000 US dollars or its equivalent in domestic or foreign currency.

• Items subject to compliance, regulations other than payment of duties (permits, certificates, and notifications) cannot be imported.

• In order to determine the tax basis, the duty free exemptions mentioned in number 2 could be deducted from the value of the items.

(c) State

5 Passport issued by (country)

8 Countries visited on this

2

Date of birth

Day

Month

Year

Passport number

2

VISITORS T Number of days you will stay in Mexico RESIDENTS OF MEXICO Number of days you stayed abroad

3

Number of family members traveling with you Number of luggage pieces (bags and packages) you bring with you Missing luggage or luggage to be imported by cargo (pieces) (See Notification 1 of this form)

4 MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION Mark with an X the means of transportation Maritime Vessel No.

Ground Transport No.

Air Flight No.

5 Carrying money in cash, receivables or a combination of both is legal; however, not declaring the total amount when more than the equivalent of 10,000 US dollars is carried may be subject to administrative or criminal penalties.

Are you carrying amounts in cash, documents receivable (checks, promissory notes, payment orders, etc.) or a combination of them, the combined total of which exceeds 10,000 US dollars or their equivalent in national or foreign currency?

No If you have answered Yes, please declare the total amount in US dollars

Yes

$

If you answer Yes, you must also fill out the “Declaración de internación o extracción de cantidades en efectivo y/o documento por cobrar” (Customs Declaration for the import/export of cash, receivables or equivalent documents), which you can request from the customs personnel in charge at the entry ports to Mexico or download it from the Customs Internet Site: www.aduanas.gob.mx

U.S. CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM*

Who must complete this form: • All Passengers (or one Passenger per family with the same address) bound for the U.S. How to complete this form: • Complete before arrival in the U.S. • Write in English, in capital letters.

• Be sure to include the street name and number, city, and

state of your address in the U.S. • If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your final destination country.

• Lines 5 and 6 may be left blank if not using a passport.

• On Line 9, enter WN for Southwest, followed by your specific flight number.

• Please read both sides of the declaration.

• Sign at the “X.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KHY BECHER (FLOWER) AND SERGIO PITAMITZ/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE (SPOTTS BEACH)

Insider’s Grand Cayman Southwest serves 15 international destinations,

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3

QUEEN ELIZABETH II BOTANIC PARK Browse des-

ert roses and wild banana orchids— the Cayman Islands’ national flower—and hang out at the Blue Iguana Habitat.

2

KIMPTON SEAFIRE RESORT + SPA Prepare for total re-

4

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF CAMANA BAY AND KIMPTON SEAFIRE RESORT + SPA

laxation at this luxe retreat, located on Seven Mile Beach.

Each guest room and suite has its own private balcony, and the resort has kayaks and paddle boards available.

MEXICAN CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM

Who must complete this form: • All Passengers (or one Passenger per family with the same address) on flights bound for Mexico.

How to complete this form: • Complete sections 1–6.

• Once completed, sign and date the form.

MEXICAN IMMIGRATION FORM

Who must complete this form: • All Passengers (including children) who are not citizens of Mexico, on flights bound for Mexico.

How to complete this form: • Complete sections 1–14 on the top portion of the form and sections 1–10 on the bottom portion of the form.

• Once completed, sign and date the top portion of the form.

SPOTTS BEACH This beautiful white-sand beach is the ideal spot to watch the sunrise, soak up some rays, or snorkel in crystalline waters. Keep your eyes peeled for turtles.

• Sections on the form titled “USO OFICIAL” are for use by Mexican Immigration officials and should not be filled out by Passengers.

What to do with this form: • The form will be separated as Passengers proceed through Mexican Customs.

• Make sure to retain the bottom portion of the form, which serves as your visa while in Mexico. It must be surrendered

at time of check-in for your return flight. Passengers unable to present this form at time of departure will be fined by Mexican Immigration. * Go to cbp.gov to download, fill out, and print this form before your next international flight.

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Route Map

Your Destination Awaits

Planning your next getaway? Choose from more than 100 destinations— including our international cities. It’s a snap at Southwest.com.

PACIFIC TIME

SEATTLE/TACOMA

MOUNTAIN TIME CENTRAL TIME

SPOKANE

PORTLAND

BOISE

MINNEAPOLIS/ ST. PAUL

GRAND RAPIDS

MILWAUKEE RENO/TAHOE

DES MOINES

SALT LAKE CITY

SACRAMENTO OAKLAND SAN FRANCISCO (SFO) SAN JOSE

CHICAGO (MIDWAY)

OMAHA INDIANAPOLIS DENVER KANSAS CITY

ST. LOUIS

LOUISVILLE

LAS VEGAS WICHITA BURBANK LOS ANGELES (LAX) LONG BEACH

YOU’RE ON YOUR WAY You can get to a number of other cities via Southwest destinations. Travel to Santa Fe via Albuquerque, Palm Springs via Ontario, Galveston via Houston, and more.

Service between some cities/airports is not offered. * Service to Cincinnati and Grand Cayman begins June 4.

Service to Turks and Caicos begins Nov. 5, pending governmental approvals.

ONTARIO

ALBUQUERQUE

ORANGE COUNTY

NASHVILLE TULSA

AMARILLO

SAN DIEGO

OKLAHOMA CITY PHOENIX

LITTLE ROCK

LUBBOCK

TUCSON

MEMPHIS

BIRMINGHAM DALLAS (LOVE FIELD)

EL PASO

MIDLAND/ODESSA PENSACOLA AUSTIN HOUSTON (HOBBY)

PANAMA CIT

NEW ORLEANS

SAN ANTONIO CORPUS CHRISTI

FT. MYERS/N

HARLINGEN/SOUTH PADRE ISLAND

CABO SAN LUCAS/LOS CABOS

CANCU CANC UN PUERTO VALLARTA

SEATTLE

The chic Thompson Seattle offers spacious suites, a convenient downtown location, and stellar views at The Nest, its newly renovated rooftop bar.

MEXICO CITY BELIZE CITY

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TRAVEL ON THE BRIGHT SIDE THIS SUMMER!

MILWAUKEE

Known locally as “The Domes,” the Mitchell Park Horticultural Conservatory showcases diverse plant life.

EASTERN TIME ATLANTIC TIME PORTLAND MANCHESTER ALBANY

ROCHESTER FLINT DETROIT

BOSTON LOGAN

PROVIDENCE

HARTFORD/SPRINGFIELD

BUFFALO/ NIAGARA FALLS

LONG ISLAND/ISLIP NEW YORK (LAGUARDIA) NEW YORK (NEWARK)

CLEVELAND

PHILADELPHIA

PITTSBURGH

BALTIMORE/WASHINGTON (BWI)

COLUMBUS

WASHINGTON, D.C. (DULLES) WASHINGTON, D.C. (REAGAN NATIONAL)

CINCINNATI*

RICHMOND NORFOLK/VIRGINIA BEACH

RALEIGH/DURHAM

CHARLESTON

ATLANTA

PENSACOLA PANAMA CITY BEACH

PROVIDENCE

JACKSONVILLE ORLANDO

TAMPA FT. MYERS/NAPLES

WEST PALM BEACH FT. LAUDERDALE (MIAMI AREA)

At the RISD Museum, there are 100,000 objects to explore, including works by Rodin, Rothko, and Picasso.

NASSAU TURKS AND CAICOS*

VARADERO SANTA CLARA

HAVANA

SAN JUAN PUNTA CANA

GRAND CAYMAN* MONTEGO BAY

BELIZE CITY

ARUBA

LIBERIA

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW POGUE (THOMPSON SEATTLE), ANEESE/ISTOCK (THE DOMES), COURTESY OF THE RISD MUSEUM, PROVIDENCE, RI.

CHARLOTTE GREENVILLE-SPARTANBURG

For $85. Good Five-Years That’s Only

$17 A Year! ®

SAN JOSÉ

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One Question

Kate Mara,

People tell you not to settle in relationships, but I find that to be true for most things. It’s good advice for the career I’m in. I’ve said yes to projects my heart wasn’t quite in because I was afraid to say no. Anytime I’ve made a decision based on fear, I’ve regretted it. If you don’t settle, you have the confidence to say, “No, I think I’m actually better than this.” If you can do that, I think most of the time you’ll be happy with your decision.

Kate stars in Megan Leavey, a film about a Marine corporal and her dog, out June 9.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN RUSSO/CONTRIBUTOR BY GETTY IMAGES

what’s the best advice you’ve received?

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! s k c o R é s Ro ENJOY

ON THE

Slightly Sparkling

Delicious & Refreshing Perfect for Summer!

NOW IN

8.5oz

stella rosa san antonio winery.indd 1

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We started UNTUCKit because we had trouble finding shirts that looked good untucked. It’s a deceptively difficult look to get right. Shirts just aren’t designed that way.

So we decided to make a better shirt for the untucked man. A casual shirt fit for comfort, not convention, and designed to fall at the perfect length.

untuckit.com

Atlanta • Austin • Chicago • Dallas • Los Angeles New York City • Philadelphia • Portland • San Francisco • St. Louis

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www.meatmarket.net An internationally-inspired menu of prime cuts of beef, seafood, poultry and crudo offerings

best american

STEAKHOUSES

©

S Beach Miami, Lincoln Rd, FL • 305.532.0088 EL San Juan Hotel, PR • 787.253.2007 Palm Beach Island, FL • 561.354.9800

www.bobs-steakandchop.com Prime steaks and big drinks

www.eddiemerlots.com We are Distinctly Different – The ultimate in dining experience Denver/Englewood, CO • 720.744.2622 West Chicago/Burr Ridge, IL • 630.468.2089 West Chicago/Warrenville, IL • 630.393.1900 Northwest Chicago/Lincolnshire, IL • 847.276.2000 Northeast Indianapolis, IN • 317.846.8303 Fort Wayne, IN • 260.459.2222 Louisville, KY • 502.584.3266 Bloomfield Hills, MI • 248.712.4095 Cincinnati, OH • 513.489.1212 Scottsdale, AZ • 480.699.0480 Ashburn, VA • 571.510.3898

www.HydeParkRestaurants.com

wolfgangssteakhouse.net “The meat was many wonderful things at once… or in rapid succession… crunchy, tender, smokey earthy… it induced a kind of euphoria.”

–New York Times N. Canon Dr./Beverly Hills, CA • 310.385.0640

Amelia Island, FL • 904.432.2201 Austin, TX • 512.222.2627 Dallas (on Lamar), TX • 214.652.4800 Dallas (on Lemmon), TX • 214.528.9446 Fort Worth, TX • 817.350.4100 Grapevine, TX • 817.481.5555 Houston (The Woodlands), TX • 281.292.2627 Plano, TX • 972.608.2627 San Antonio, TX • 210.222.2627 San Francisco, CA • 415.273.3088 Tucson, AZ • 520.877.2377 Carlsbad, CA • 760.438.9111

www.chicagochophouse.com

www.stockyardssteakhouse.com

The Chicago Chop House bestows every guest with exceptional quality, flavor, service, and ambiance.

5 minutes from Sky Harbor International Airport - Est. 1947 5009 E. Washington St., Phoenix • 602.273.7378

Downtown Chicago 60 W. Ontario St., Chicago, IL • 312.787.7100

Featuring aged steaks, chops and fresh fish Daytona Beach, FL • 386.226.9844 Sarasota, FL • 941.366.7788 Birmingham, MI • 248.594.4369 Akron, OH • 330.670.6303 Cleveland/Beachwood, OH • 216.464.0688 Cleveland/Downtown, OH • 216.344.2444 Cleveland/Westlake, OH • 440.892.4933 Columbus/Arlington, OH • 614.442.3310 Columbus/Downtown, OH • 614.224.2204 Columbus/Dublin, OH • 614.717.2828 Downtown Indianapolis, IN • 317.536.0270 Pittsburgh, PA • 412.222.4014

www.pampasusa.com Seemingly endless parade of sizzling skewers Las Vegas, NV • 702.737.4748 Palo Alto, CA • 650.327.1323

www.grasslandsusa.com You can go anywhere to get a steak.

But there’s only one place you can go, to experience meat.

400 West Disney Way #199 Anaheim, CA • 657.208.1133

www.unclejacks.com www.jimmykellys.com A Nashville institution since 1934 Nashville, TN • 615.329.4349

www.basteaks.com aa_ad_steakhouse_SWAIR_050217.indd 1

Rated excellent by Zagat/ Five Star Diamond Award NY Midtown W 56th St. • 212.245.1550 NY Westside 9th Ave.-West 34/35th St. • 212.244.0005 NY Bayside LI, NY • 718.229.1100

www.tropicalacres.com Est. 1949 – Where the TRADITIONAL AMERICAN STEAKHOUSE began!

SE Ft. Lauderdale, FL • 954.761.1744

Independently owned and operated with over 50 locations.

5/2/17 9:14 AM

RESTAURANT OF THE MONTH

Los Angeles / Santa Monica, CA LOCANDA DEL LAGO 231 Arizona Avenue - 310.451.3525 "Don't miss the Ossobuco alla Milanese"–Gourmet, "There's no better place to peoplewatch than at the outdoor patio"–Frommers. Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, 2015. www.lagosantamonica.com When Lago opened in April 1991, the upscale Italian restaurant quickly established a reputation as having perhaps the only menu in Los Angeles to focus on the cuisine of Bellagio on Lake Como in Northern Italy. Today, celebrating its 24th anniversary, Lago maintains that unique identity and attracts an eclectic crowd of foodies, celebrities, locals and travelers. With its warm, inviting interior, expansive windows and a sidewalk patio overlooking Santa Monica's colorful Third Street Promenade, the restaurant is consistently lauded for imaginative Italian cuisine spotlighting seasonal flavors and the freshest local ingredients. Co-owner West Hooker, who was born in Milan and has lived and worked in Bellagio, presides over the popular restaurant with General Manager Megan Heritage, who has been with Lago since 1996.

Chicago / Downtown Italian Village Restaurants-Visit Italy right in Chicago THE VILLAGE - 312.332.7005 71 W. Monroe Street Chicago's Oldest Family Italian Restaurant–Al Capone was a regular. Guests dine in cozy nooks designed like a small Italian town. Celebrating our 88th anniversary this year. www.italianvillage-chicago.com LA CANTINA - 312.332.7005 A premier Italian Steak and Chop House VIVERE - 312.332.4040 A contemporary restaurant featuring "new" Italian cuisine from all regions of Italy.

2015 Wine Spectator Top Ten Italian Restaurants, 2015 DiRona Award, 2015 Wine Enthusiasts Ultimate Distinction Award.

Disneyworld/Universal/Orlando, FL CHRISTINI'S 7600 Dr. Phillips Boulevard - 407.345.8770 CHRISTINI’S IS ONE OF THE MOST AWARDED ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN THE UNITED STATES. www.christinis.com

Ft. Lauderdale / Boca Raton, FL CASA D’ANGELO Boca Raton: 171 East Palmetto Park Rd. - 561.338.1703 Ft. Lauderdale: Sunrise Square Plaza,1201 N. FederalHwy. - 954.564.1234 Wine Spectator Best Award of Excellence, 2015. Zagat America's Top Restaurants, 2015. Rated as not only one of the best Italian restaurants in Florida, Casa D'Angelo has also been recognized in the industry as one of America's finest Italian restaurants. www.casa-d-angelo.com

232 North Dale Mabry - 813.875.6660 An Old World bliss in the heart of Tampa serving authentic Italian Cuisine since 1984.

Every night Guido and Gino Tiozzo welcome you at the door and every lady will leave Donatello with a rose on her hand as a thanks for being there.

You’ll see for yourself that hospitality has ancient roots at Donatello. Full Bar, Piano Lounge, Private Rooms. Wine Spectator Award 15 consecutive years, 2000-2015. Editor’s Note: The Finest in Tampa Bay. Try the Filet Mignon, it’s over the top! www.donatellotampa.com

Info 1-800-448-7544

Tampa, FL DONATELLO

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